FELINE GOOD A PIONEER FORD MODELS SHU UEMURA TEAMS FOUNDER WITH KARL LAGERFELD FOR A MAKEUP LINE EILEEN FORD INSPIRED BY HIS PET DIES AT 92. WWDMILESTONES PUIG AT 100 CHOUPETTE. PAGE 7 PAGE 3 SECTION II

SECOND-QUARTER BLUES Weary Retailers Battle Weak Demand, Traffic

By DAVID MOIN

NO, IT’S NOT Black Friday. But retailers have been discounting like Christmas WWD is coming and the price promotions are expected to take a big bite out of second-quarter profits. The slow-growing economy, inflation, heavy inven- FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY tories and lack of hot items on the selling floors have left retailers only slightly ahead of where they stood after a very tough first quarter. Consumers remain largely uninspired, put off by the perpetual lack of fashion innovation, and pinched by high food and gas prices. The crises in the Ukraine and Iraq only further the lethargy. While some analysts, vendors and store executives were looking for pent-up demand to drive business, that hasn’t been the case even as warm weather and price promotions mustered some mall footfall. There’s been some improvement from the first quarter — but that’s not saying much. By June it seemed everything was promotionally priced. Retailers would have preferred to be reordering or “chasing” products rather than having to clear them out to make way for fresh goods. “Traffic is really tough out there,” said Rebecca Duval, analyst at BlueFin Research Partners. “The Fourth of July was more promotional this year. It was 50 to 60 percent off. Last year it was 30 to 40 percent off.” While Duval said stepped-up promotions were driving people to the malls, she noted that high inven- tory levels are a concern for many stores. “Now 40 percent off is just like the table stakes to get shoppers to cross the lease lines,” said Craig Johnson, president of Customers Growth Partners. “Late April was OK and May was OK. But it was like a false spring with a certain amount of pent-up de- mand that really didn’t indicate a lot of underlying organic growth. The false spring started petering SEE PAGE 5 Cole Haan Expansion Takes Global Viewpoint

By MARC KARIMZADEH

NEW YORK — Cole Haan is kicking off its journey to become a global lifestyle brand. Now owned by Apax Partners, which acquired the brand from Nike Inc. in a $570 million deal last year, the American footwear, accessories and outerwear Baring It All brand is launching a multifaceted strategy to acceler- ate growth, which goes into high gear this fall. The initiatives are wide in scope, ranging from projects With Reveal, the newest Calvin Klein scent, the house is hoping to unveil a around brand ambassador Dree Hemingway, for ex- new olfactory category: a solar oriental. Due in global distribution at the ample, to innovative products and a fresh retail con- cept that sets the tone for Cole Haan worldwide. end of July and in U.S. distribution in September, Reveal could do upward The plan was masterminded by a team of execu- of $150 million at retail in its first year on counter. For more, see page 6. tives, led by chief executive officer Jack Boys, who had previously revitalized Converse as a global life- style brand in his decade there, as well as president and chief operating officer J. Michael Prince and chief marketing officer David Maddocks, both also alums of Converse. On the creative front, Walker MacWilliam, previ- ously a senior vice president for design at Coach Inc., serves as senior vice president and product creative director, while Andy Gray is vice president and brand creative director. Since the acquisition, the team has studied Cole Haan’s business and history with origins as a foot- wear company in the 1870s, though the brand was of- ficially founded in 1928. Boys called it a brand that is “classically inspired PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE with American-style sensibilities, but because of the SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 WWD.COM

Burberry Lowers Guidance DIGITAL BRIEFING BOX FOR MORE COVERAGE, FIND US ON WWD.COM, SOCIAL AND MOBILE. price increases, while allowing a quarter of all digital sales. By MILES SOCHA that the company is monitoring “Digital continues to outper- competitors closely and “we tend form,” Fairweather said. “The U.S. PARIS — The currency grinch to be a fast follower. in particular is a market where ON INSTAGRAM has struck again. “We’re controlling what we digital punches above its weight.” can control. We won’t change our She said consumers there are Increasing headwinds from # foreign exchange rates forced key strategies, and continue to particularly “channel agnostic” 15SECONDSWITHALEXBADIA Burberry Group plc to lower its focus on the underlying strength and said its “customer service full-year profit guidance, some- of the business,” she stressed. through digital” represents a what overshadowing a 12 percent Fairweather noted travel re- strong differentiator. gain in same-store sales in its tail would be a focus going for- The company cited a double- fiscal first quarter that analysts ward, with an opening in Hong digit pace across men’s, women’s touted as a strong beat. Kong and relocation at London’s and accessories, notably large “We believe this will be the Heathrow Airport among bags in solid leathers. best soft luxury performance in Burberry’s next moves. Fairweather noted Burberry the quarter,” Barclays Equity “We see this as an opportunity recently trialed a more focused Research said, with Burberry for us,” Fairweather said, while offering of its iconic, made-in- considered the first big European declining to say how many of the Britan trenchcoats — a choice player to report revenues for the 20 to 25 stores planned for fiscal of three styles, three colors and three months ended June 30. 2015 would be in this channel. three lengths — in 30 stores, and “Burberry remains one of the it has “resonated very well with Watch #15secondswithAlexBadia: Our men’s fashion very few luxury companies to our consumers.” The company director reports on the men’s spring collections. Hear what continue to enjoy double-digit plans to roll out the merchandis- Michael Kors and Rag & Bone’s Marcus Wainwright had to revenue growth,” echoed Citi ing strategy to its entire network say about this season’s inspirations. analyst Thomas Chauvet. 12% of directly owned stores. The company recorded a 9 Burberry’s results came ahead percent jump in revenue to 370 BURBERRY’S GAIN IN SAME-STORE of the company’s annual general million pounds, or $622.5 mil- SALES IN THE FIRST QUARTER. meeting today, where it is likely to lion at average exchange rates. hear shareholder discontent over Stripping out the impact of ex- the pay package for Christopher change rates, the sales gain stood Burberry trumpeted double- Bailey, Burberry’s chief creative at 17 percent. digit growth in Asia Pacific and officer who also took on the role But it warned that if the British the Americas in the quarter. chief executive officer last May fol- pound remains as strong as it is Reflecting weaker economies lowing the exit of Angela Ahrendts, today, reported retail and whole- elsewhere on the globe, Europe, who left the company to become sale profit would be reduced by the Middle East, India and Africa head of retail at Apple Inc. about 55 million pounds, or $93.7 registered low-single-digit growth. Fairweather skirted questions million at current exchange, and Fairweather cited lower tour- about the revolt, insisting the that the adjusted operating mar- ist traffic among Russians and AGM was the proper forum. gin would fall from 17.5 percent to mainland Europeans, but no Bailey could earn up to 8.1 mil- about 16 percent. Burberry’s fiscal slowdown among Chinese, and lion pounds, or $13.8 million, per year ends on March 31, 2015. asserted that Burberry’s digital year, including a cash allowance ACHARD During a conference call, chief focus gives it a “point of differ- of 440,000 pounds, or $749,215, ac-

financial officer Carol Fairweather ence” in the market, particularly cording to the company. DELPHINE said there was little the company among young consumers. He also received a golden hello BY could do vis-à-vis exchange rates Mainland China and Hong in the form of shares worth up to ON FACEBOOK beyond hedging where it can. Kong registered double-digit 7.6 million pounds, or $12.9 mil- PHOTO “We’re a luxury brand, and we growth in the quarter, with lion. The shares packet is linked Backstage Beauty from Paris Couture Week: need to source appropriately,” Southeast Asia “more challeng- to the company’s performance. “Like” WWD on Facebook and see the looks. she said, responding to a question ing,” Fairweather noted. Bailey’s base salary is 1.1 million about possible offsets, including Burberry now offers a click- pounds, or $1.9 million, and he will changing production sites. and-collect service in 131 stores, also receive a cash bonus, share ON WWD.COM Fairweather also ruled out and iPad sales in-store represent awards and pension contributions. WWD Global Stock Tracker: Follow U.S., China Talk Currency Exchange Rates fashion’s the global economic recovery is should take the initiative to dem- highs and By KATHLEEN E. still in a critical transition point, onstrate to the world that, even lows — a MCLAUGHLIN and the Chinese government does facing negativity and potential daily update not yet believe that it can adopt a alienation in bilateral relations, of fashion BEIJING — The U.S. has pushed completely free-market-based ex- the two powers still stick to the di- stock China once again toward agree- change rate. China has credited alogue mechanism to ensure that performance cooperation and consultation de- ing in principle on adopting a its freeze on the yuan’s value at the from around more market-oriented exchange start of the economic meltdown fine the overall relationship,” the the world. rate, but with no firm details on for helping this country, and the official Xinhua new service wrote how or when that might happen. region, survive and thrive through in an editorial about the talks. In closing two days of top- turmoil. But it has retained a fairly During the opening ceremony level trade and economic talks in strict peg since, leading to renewed for the talks, Chinese President Beijing, U.S. Treasury Secretary calls from the U.S. and other trade Xi Jinping urged cooperation, Jacob Lew said China had pledged partners that an unnaturally fixed but did not get into specifics. to further ease its firm controls on currency provides China with an “China and the United States’ FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA its currency — long a thorn in the unfair trade advantage. interests are deeply intercon- @ WWD.com/social U.S.-China trade relationship. This round of talks, the sixth nected. Cooperation will lead to “China is making preparations such yearly meetings, comes at a win-win results while confronta- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. to adopt greater transparency in- time when U.S.-China relations tion will hurt both,” he said. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. cluding on foreign exchange, which are mired in problematic issues. In addition to a note of agree- COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. will accelerate the move to a more The two have been embroiled in ment in principle about currency, VOLUME 208, NO. 8. FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and market-based exchange rate,” Lew multiple spats during the past the SED also agreed to strength- two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine said in a news conference at the year, including charges and coun- en economic policy cooperation Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, end of the Strategic and Economic ter-charges of cyber-espionage. between the two countries. Both Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, Dialogue, or SED, an annual set of Lew led the American delega- sides said that they will work on NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West discussions on key Sino-U.S. issues. tion in Beijing, accompanied for “fostering an open, transparent, Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 6356, On Wednesday, the first day some of his trip by Secretary of and non-discriminatory environ- Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. of discussions, China’s finance State John Kerry. The teams dis- ment for trade and investment.” Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address minister said his country has no cussed everything from the il- China, meanwhile, promised to changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. plans for additional economic legal wildlife trade to currency further deepen its commitment to If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with stimulus measures. China’s econ- rates — a perpetual burr in the market-oriented economics and your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be omy, largely powered through bilateral relationship. the reform of its state-owned en- mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request aggressive government spending As it has gained in global eco- terprise system. China also used to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse programs, has been credited with nomic power, China has become in- the platform to further its pitch permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. bolstering the global economy creasingly petulant about bilateral for technology transfers from the Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we through the crisis that began in issues. The underlying message U.S. for non-military and non- believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR 2008. Minister Lou Jiwei said its for these meetings from China’s of- government use, and reiterated DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED now up to the U.S. to step up and ficial media has been to place the a commitment that domestic de- TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, work as a global growth engine. burden of compromise on the U.S. mand will become a key driver of UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND Lou said that China believes “It is the United States that its economy. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WwD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 3 WWD.COM

obituary Ford Models said Thursday, “Eileen Ford was an industry icon and pioneer, and everyone in the Ford Models family will miss her dearly. Eileen’s contributions to the modeling and fashion industries are unmatched. She founded Ford Models 68 Eileen Ford, 92 years ago and, due to her unwavering pas- everybody is what made her so wonder- sion, curiosity and drive, grew Ford into By Rosemary Feitelberg ful,” Brinkley said. “She knew the busi- one of the world’s most prestigious agen- ness and she made the business.” cies. We are incredibly proud and grateful MORE THAN a modeling agency pioneer, In a 2010 interview with WWD, Ford for her revolutionary spirit and the values Eileen Ford, who died Wednesday at the age mentioned how more than 100 of her for- she instilled in Ford Models.” of 92, helped introduce a Who’s Who of beau- mer models had contacted her on a birth- With an Irving Penn photograph of 10 ties to the American cultural landscape. day. “Their lives were very important to statuesque models hanging above her The cause of Ford’s death and location me. It wasn’t just a business. Our busi- desk at work, Ford often dressed in a had not yet been confirmed Thursday. ness was built on trust. They trusted us pencil skirt and shirt with a sweater ca- In 1946, Ford revolutionized the mod- and we loved them,” she said. sually tied across her shoulders, and she

eling business by starting an agency with Being a modeling agent was an avoca- rchive made it known that her models should A her husband, Jerry, in their Manhattan tion, not a job for Ford, who first spied always look pulled together. Along the apartment. Their aim was to maximize Vendela in a Stockholm restaurant and way, Ford penned five books about beau- models’ bookings and manage the profes- Estée Lauder’s first big face Karen Graham ty. She and her husband delved into urner/WWD

sional lives of their clients. Over the near- at Bonwit Teller, according to Ford’s daugh- T cosmetics with Eileen Ford Makeup for

ly seven decades she ran Ford Models, ter Katie. “Her greatest thrill was to spot a d Models, which was later sold. While she

the straight-talking Ford steered Twiggy, model in the daily course of life, one that Davi was not known to mince words, she ap-

Lauren Hutton, Cheryl Tiegs, Christie was not introduced to her. She would often by peared teary in the HBO special “About Eileen Ford in 1993. Brinkley, Christy Turlington Burns and spot a girl she thought could model and Face,” when she said, “I’ve read from other top-tier models into superstardom. follow her for a few blocks, assessing her Photo time to time that I’m cruel, that I turn With each generation, she ushered in a first appraisal throughout her surreptitious joined in the endeavor. Early on, they down models. If I did say no, it’s the best new cast of beautiful faces. In the Forties chase,” the younger Ford said. sold their car to buy office furniture, and thing I could do,” explaining that telling and Fifties, it was Dovima, Jean Patchett, After the Fords moved to an Upper in 1948 Life magazine featured them in a short model that she could get work Suzy Parker, Tippi Hedren and Monique East Side brownstone in 1955, they start- an article pegging their gross billing at would be dishonest. (She also was known Chevalier. By the Sixties, the standouts ed inviting new models to live with them $250,000 after just one year in business. to stand up for her clients’ best interests, were Jane Fonda, Candice Bergen, Ali in the summer to help them adjust to city In 1995, Ford passed the torch to her daughter Katie said Thursday.) MacGraw, Penelope Tree, Grace Jones, life. An avid entertainer, Ford was sure to her daughter Katie, who took over the As the modeling business edged into Veruschka and Martha Stewart. And the put the up-and-comers to work in the fam- company as chief executive officer. The celebrityhood, Ford said, “It’s very bad three decades that followed brought a new ily’s house and garden. On weekends, they younger Ford held that role until Ford for the model business. It didn’t surprise wave of talent, including Kim Basinger, often traveled with the family to their Models was sold to Stone Tower Equity me — it troubled me. I felt very sorry for Beverly Johnson, Naomi Campbell and summer house in Quogue. Photographers, Partners in 2007. More than three years them because covers count for the model. Elle MacPherson, among others. stylists and editors routinely joined the after the fact, Ford told WWD, “We’re not On the other hand, my idol was Katharine In an interview Thursday, Brinkley gang for lunches and dinners. Katie Ford going to live forever. We know that. And Hepburn. I loved the way she looked, the recalled first connecting with Ford recalled how director Dick Richards we gave it to the children. I don’t think way she dressed — everything about her.” through photographers Mike Reinhardt reminisced about his young days as a pho- you can give a business to a child and say Through it all, Ford considered her and Patrick Demarchelier. In the late tographer: “When Eileen invited me for it’s yours and then tell them what to do. marriage to be her greatest success. Seventies, they phoned Ford from Paris, the weekend, she asked me to paint my My daughter sold the agency and she’s (Jerry Ford died in 2008.) She told WWD, where Brinkley was living at the time, and bedroom…had she asked, I’d have gladly devoted her life to prevent human traf- “Jerry and I worked together and then urged her to see the young talent. Soon painted the whole house.” ficking. I’m so proud of her.” we’d go home to see our children. We after, Brinkley planned to visit her par- A former model herself, the New York Ford’s tips to up-and-comers extend- were married two months short of 64 ents in Palm Springs, Calif., and Ford in- City-born Ford spent two of her Barnard ed to their elders: “My advice is to their years. And Jerry’s two-and-a-half years vited the striking blonde to visit the Fords’ College summers learning the ropes. In parents. Let your children know that you younger than I. I’m an original cougar.” home there. “I met with her and showed 1944, she and her midshipman husband believe in them. That’s true about being Not one for words to live by, Ford said, her the few photos I had. She said, ‘I eloped before he was sent to the South a successful model agent, too. The model “I live day to day, and so far it’s worked don’t like these at all. But you are great.’” Pacific for two years. During that time, has to know that you believe in her. And out. I’m really lucky. That’s a good song, Brinkley said. “Eileen said, ‘Those photos Ford worked a series of different jobs, gosh knows we did.” ‘Lucky to Be Me.’ I am lucky to be me. are awful, but we will change all that.’” such as secretary for lensman Elliot Turlington Burns said Thursday, “I It isn’t that I’ve wound up the richest While Ford’s management style was Clark, a stylist at Arnold Constable de- was fortunate to have worked in the in- woman in the world. I’m not the poorest like “a stern mother,” Brinkley said she partment store, a copywriter and a Tobe dustry at a time when legends like Eileen woman in the world, but I certainly think was “really just a sweetheart” who knew Report fashion writer. While helping a Ford were still reigning. Being a part of I’m one of the happiest — and luckiest.” everyone in her agency, as well as what few model friends with their bookings, the Ford Agency when I began my career In addition to her daughter Katie, was going on in their lives, what their Ford decided their agencies were less was truly special. I will always remem- Ford is survived by three other children, strengths were and what they would than honest. Her husband soon recog- ber Eileen and her indomitable presence Jamie, Billy and Lacey, as well as her excel at. “That personal connection to nized the viability of her business and with fondness and gratitude.” brother, William Otte.

Prada exclusively for the film. Other industry examples in Italy in- Milan Film Festival to Run With Fashion Week clude Giorgio Armani, a veteran, having worked with Martin Scorsese since 1987, or in communications and public relations, presses itself, and we are happy to be part partnering with “I Am Love” director Luca By Luisa Zargani as a founder of CavalliComunicacion in of a project that brings visibility to the rest Guadagnino, who has over the years also Mexico; her passion for fashion, as a fash- in the world,” explained Reeve. “Fashion worked with Fendi, Cartier, Louis Vuitton MILAN — As part of its ongoing rejuve- ion editor of Fashion Week Mexico, and is a combination of many different stimuli and Pomellato. Versace and Ermenegildo nation and internationalization, Milan that for cinema, as a cofounder of the first and it constantly intersects different in- Zegna turned to director James Lima for Fashion Week in September will be book- Latin American movie festival and the dustries, from furniture to food. All these their own shorts. “A film tells the soul of a ended by the first Fashion Film Festival first Argentinian film festival in Mexico. impulses redefine fashion.” brand,” said Cavalli Etro. Milano, a new talent search, the brain- Marrying Kean Etro, men’s wear creative The organization has already received The films can be submitted until child of Constanza Cavalli Etro. director of the family brand, she moved to 150 videos from around the world, and 70 Tuesday at fffmilano.com and will be The festival, running Sept. 14 and 15, Italy in 2006. “I had been mulling the idea of films from designer brands. Cavalli Etro viewed by an international jury that is will also hold an exhibition of fashion short a fashion film festival for a while and when said she views this as a “democratic” proj- still being confirmed. No backstage videos videos by established designer brands. Jane joined the Camera, I felt the time had ect as it is free and open to all, the only or films from the shows will be accepted. Partnering with the Italian Chamber of come for the project to finally take shape,” requisite being that the films should not be Categories include best fashion film, best Fashion, the films will be visible through- said Cavalli Etro, enthusiastically mapping older than three years. She also believes director and best script, among others. out fashion week in Milan, running Sept. 17 out the development of the project, noting that big designer names will help have Slated to run as an annual event, the to 22. The festival’s closing event will take her kinship to Reeve, who hails from mar- pulling power. “It will be the same window festival will take place at Milan’s iconic place on Sept. 22 at the Triennale museum keting, communication and advertising. for all, but big helps small,” she said. Teatro Grassi, cofounded by famed direc- with a cocktail party for about 300 guests Reeve, who started in her new role at To be sure, several designers have tor Giorgio Strehler, but it could also travel with screenings paying tribute to visionar- the association in January, was immedi- recently been developing movies as a to other cities and, in the future, be ex- ies in fashion filmmaking. ately taken by Cavalli Etro’s proposal of a marketing tool and creative release, tended in time. “Teatro Grassi is the home “I felt it was appropriate to create partnership and said that the Chamber’s projecting their vision and style through of contemporary theater at an interna- an event that puts together fashion and board and members were unanimously storytelling and beyond the stillness of tional level, and an intellectual icon,” said movies, a moment of open congregation on board. “The festival responds to my ob- photos. To wit, Prada has been produc- Cavalli Etro. “This is the first fashion event targeting young creative talents, bringing jectives to open up Milan’s fashion week, ing high-level films since 2005’s short that the theater hosts,” she added proudly. them into the world of fashion, flanked to make it more international and to sup- “Thunder Perfect Mind” by Ridley and Designed by Barnaba Fornasetti, the by the work of big brands at the same port young creative talents,” said the U.K.- Jordan Scott, about Amber, its first wom- awards will be bestowed during a ceremo- time,” Cavalli Etro said during an exclu- born Reeve, joking about the Argentinian- en’s fragrance, showing at the Berlin ny on Sept. 15, followed by a cocktail party sive interview with Jane Reeve, chief ex- British alliance to boost the Italian fashion Film Festival that year. In 2012, the at the theater’s Renaissance cloister. ecutive officer of the Camera Nazionale week. “This is a new way to communicate Italian luxury firm worked with Roman There will also be a Fashion Gives a della Moda at the association’s headquar- and explore new aesthetic codes, narra- Polanski, who directed a short movie, Hand section, dedicated to social proj- ters here. “Fashion week has been some- tive and style. The Camera is increasingly titled “A Therapy,” premiered at the ects in Ecuador and Bolivia, for example. what distant from young people.” more attentive to the enhancement of the Cannes Film Festival and starring Ben “In a world where the digital image is With this project, the Buenos Aires- existing connection between fashion and Kingsley and Helena Bonham Carter, increasingly important, fashion films re- born Cavalli Etro blends her background the different languages with which it ex- wearing costumes designed by Miuccia flect our times,” concluded Reeve.

w11a003a;6.indd 3 7/10/14 7:31 PM 07102014193145 4 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 Cole Haan Looks to Accelerate Growth

{Continued from page one} Cole Haan’s brand ambassador Dree The new Cole Haan store DNA of the brand, it has also been able Hemingway is in the fall campaign. in Tokyo’s Ginza district. to expand beyond that. It’s a multigen- erational base with a global application.” Maddocks added, “It’s a history we honor. As we look forward, to 2015, 2016 and 2017, we see our role here at the company as stewards of that heritage, and the most important thing is to con- tinue to expose that to new audiences. We see this collision of tradition with mo- dernity, and in that tension, there is a lot of opportunity to discover things about the brand.” Under Nike, the brand has gone through several reinventions over the years, but always struggled to build on momentum, which the new parent hopes to correct. Enter the new store concept, unveiled in Tokyo’s Ginza district last month. At 2,000 square feet, it’s the company’s first freestanding store in Japan, which Boys called “the new face of Cole Haan in its The new retail stores and will be the basis for our ZeroGrand expansion into China, Korea and the rest shoe. of the Asia-Pacific region.”

Mixing modern with traditional el- ements, New York architectural firm Anderson Architects, in partnership In handbags, the with local architects Garde Co. Ltd. and Vestry collection Cole Haan’s Gray, created an Art Deco- and Felicity inspired environment marked by an in- backpack are digo tile that is used on the facade, for new for fall. example, as well as the layout of rooms that give the space a residential feel. It offers footwear, small leather goods, outerwear, sunglasses and partnering with the New York City Ballet, jewelry, as well as several new wom- and signed on three of its principal danc- en’s handbag styles, including the ers — Sara Mearns,’’ Megan Fairchild and Vestry collection and Felicity back- Gretchen Smith — for a special project. pack. The concept nods to the com- “We thought, ‘Here are three young pany’s history, but through a more women who really work for what they be- contemporary lens than previous lieve in,” Maddocks said. “That convic- Cole Haan retail iterations. tion, in terms of values, aligns so well While Cole Haan has had glob- with the brand, so we started to work al wholesale distribution before, on product creation with them.” the Ginza unit kicks off a global Ballet-inspired product in footwear retail rollout. and eventually casual accessories are “We will be in markets in a expected to launch starting in October. meaningful way that we have never been before — China, South Korea, Mexico, Southeast Asia, the Middle East, South America,” Prince said, pointing to We see our role here Ginza as the model for future openings. “We will roll that out in Shanghai, Seoul, at the company as stewards of that heritage, and the most important thing is to continue to expose that to new audiences. — DAVID MADDOCKS, COLE HAAN

The store concept, seen here at the Ginza unit, will inform future Cole Haan stores. Elsewhere, Cole Haan is stepping up its technological innovation, for which Women’s footwear is a key category at Cole Haan. the brand is known, via the men’s Pinch LTE and Grant LTE shoe styles. The Mexico City, Santiago, Lima, New York bution model, though the company made serves as global brand ambassador, was Grant LTE drivers style features an ergo- and San Francisco. some instrumental changes to merch for photographed by Glen Luchford in Sun nomically designed rubber island driver “If you look at the opportunities, fall, which the revamped colehaan.com Valley, Idaho, her hometown. The im- outsole, while the Pinch LTE, a sneaker- Japan is our second-largest market,” Web site also reflects. ages feature the tag line “History Begins meets-loafer design, has a vulcanized Prince added. “China could be our sec- “The men’s business was fairly robust Here,” making that point of past meeting rubber outsole with a Cole Haan weave- ond-largest market in the next three to and had strength and momentum, and the the present. The ads capture a distinctly inspired pattern. ’’ five years. That’s the kind of white space women’s product line was a little bit more Americana vibe, with open roads, rural This week, the company also intro- we have in front of us, with stores, with challenged, so we wanted to course-cor- streets and horses. Hemingway’s multi- duced the ZeroGrand style, an engi- opportunities online and with wholesale rect that with the footwear, handbag and year partnership will also evolve into a neered Oxford brogue that weighs less partners. We will also keep adding cat- accessories collections,” he added. codesigned collection of women’s foot- than 290 grams, and features increased egories. We are looking at fragrance op- For fall, 60 percent of product is new wear and handbags for fall 2015. cushioning and notable flexibility. portunities, jewelry, watches and I can for men, and 70 percent for women’s, the “If you can imagine and manifest in a Products like these are likely to con- see us getting into apparel at some point. latter representing “a complete reset of young woman someone who had a com- tribute to the executives’ projections to If you are going to walk into our store footwear, and handbags, and women’s ac- plete alignment with Cole Haan, you transform Cole Haan into a “multibil- and buy our footwear, we want to sell you cessories, with Dree Hemingway as the would dream up Dree Hemingway,” said lion-dollar” business. “Today, Cole Haan other things as well.” face of our campaign,” according to Boys. Maddocks, pointing to her legacy as well has revenue in excess of $600 million, In the short term, the plan is to open “We will move all the core parts of Cole as her independent spirit as values that which is a combination of company re- 100 global locations worldwide a year. Haan forward and address the women’s align with Cole Haan. tail, wholesale and licensing,” Boys said. Boys added that with the retail rollout, business first.” Hemingway’s is not the only collabo- “Globally, our retail footprint is $850 there are no plans to change the distri- For the campaign, Hemingway, who ration in the works. Cole Haan is also [million] to $900 million.” WWD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 5 WWD.COM Promotions Seen Hurting Q2 Net

{Continued from page one} “Teen spending is considered a proxy of discre- out the second week of June. Retailers have got tionary spending,” said Jharonne Martis, analyst to clear summer and spring inventory because at Thomson Reuters, “and the improvement in back-to-school receipts are coming in and real that group might suggest that consumers are start- fall isn’t that far behind.” ing to feel better about extending themselves.” RetailNext’s analysis of more than 19 million However, Shannon Greene, chief financial of- shopping trips to brick-and-mortar stores in the ficer of Tandy Leather Factory Inc., appeared re- U.S. last month revealed a 5.8 percent decline lieved as his firm reported increases in all three ACHIEVER in sales, slightly steeper than May’s 5.7 percent of its business segments for the quarter. dip but smaller than the double-digit decreases “The economic environment is tough right now registered in February and March. While traffic for many retailers and for those of us who are sell- AWArDS was down 10.8 percent and transactions were off ing nonessentials, it’s even tougher.” 12 percent, conversion dropped just 0.1 percent. Generally, drugstores, wholesale clubs, food Average transaction value rose 7.6 percent and staples, luxury products, outlets and Web sites are sales per shopper increased 5.5 percent, the best performing satisfactorily. marks so far this fiscal year. Gap Inc. said its comparable sales slid 2 per- The increase in sales per shopper offered cent, surprising analysts who, on average, were some encouragement, especially since the num- expecting the San Francisco-based apparel re- ber has been improving since seeing a 4.2 percent tailer to post a 0.7 percent increase for the month, decline in March. according to Thomson Reuters. By brand, Gap and HoNorINg The best levels for all the metrics captured by Banana Republic both comped down 7 percent, RetailNext occurred in the days just prior to and while Old Navy saw a 7 percent rise. including Father’s Day. Jennifer Black of Jennifer Black & Associates “Improvements in employment have been said in a report that Fourth of July-themed countered by higher gas prices and some infla- merchandise at American Eagle Outfitters and Leonard Lauder tion,” said Bennett Gross, partner at Callydus Banana Republic’s casual summer dresses and Group LLC, which specializes in expense reduc- skirts and Hampton pants were hits. But at the Te Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. tion at retailers and other businesses. “In ad- Gap brand, clearance levels were high, Black re- dition, there’s the psychological impact of the ported, with women’s merchandise “just not reso- LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWArD constant drumbeat out of Washington. When the nating” while Gap activewear is performing well. government is viewed as in- Old Navy, she noted, had a capable of functioning on solid month, with “the fash- issues from the economy, to ion component on trend and foreign policy, to immigra- the prices very compelling.” tion, the horizon looks bleak, Comparable Overall, the sportswear Laura Geller, Laura Geller Beauty and people just don’t spend.” market is flat at best, while The chief executive of- Sales for June denim, particularly the core ficer of a national women’s replenishment component, specialty chain said, “Maybe % Change and jewelry are among the Alli Webb, Drybar there will be a bump in weaker categories. As Chip sales for the second quarter, Old Navy 7 Bergh, president and ceo of but it’s not happening with ...... Levi Strauss & Co., which Jane Wurwand, Dermalogica profits. April, May and June Costco * 6 reported a 76.2 percent de- were better than January, ...... cline in profits for the quar- February and March, but Zumiez 3.1 ter ended May 25, said, “on- ...... not to the point where you going traffic declines and an Wende Zomnir, Urban Decay thought you could make up Cato 3 increasingly promotional en- ...... the difference.” vironment continue to pres- Many see a general slug- Victoria’s Secret 3 sure our Americas region.” ...... gishness on the part of the Planalytics said apparel Sissel Tolaas, Re_searchLab shoppers. Stein Mart 2.6 was “relatively flat” in June ...... grEAT IDEA For FrAgrANCE INNoVATIoN “I don’t see a vibrant con- compared with a year ago, Bath & Body Works 1 sumer. Consumers are just not ...... though there were some excited to get out and shop,” small positives regionally. Buckle 0.7 said one former retail ceo...... For example, women’s capri “There’s not a lot of energy pants were up 1 percent for Gap -7 out there, but at the same time ...... the month around the Great it’s our duty to create energy,” Lakes regions and T-shirts added Steve Siegler, presi- Banana Republic -7 rose 1 percent in the Gulf re- ReseRve a table dent and ceo of J. McLaughlin. gion, said Planalytics, which Siegler said “emotional prod- SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS provides weather forecast- * Excludes fuel sales. th ucts,” meaning those that are ing to help retailers in their by august 4 different and innovative, are planning. The firm noted selling, such as items in the that the recent weather has brand’s signature Catalina cloth. been spurring seasonal apparel, such as swim- “People got started later [buying] on warmer- wear and rainwear. Receive a FREE journal page weather clothes. We feel it at our resort stores. It A year ago, the second quarter was marked by opened up later but it’s opened up,” said Siegler. high inventories amid tepid sales. Most companies “Business continues to steadily improve,” missed analysts’ estimates and revised forecasts for NeW: said William Taubman, chief operating officer of the second half downward. This year, the prevailing Taubman Centers Inc. “The first quarter was tough view is for an uptick in the second half. “Retailers and was more the aberration than the norm.” are up against a weak Q4 from last year and there Special tribute section Asked about perceptions that mall traffic is is a slow modest economic comeback happening,” declining, Taubman said, “There is no question said Johnson, at Customers Growth Partners. the customer is researching online, leading to the A research note from Adrienne Tennant at honoring Mr. Lauder elimination of the marginal trip. They might go Janney suggested that merchants are managing well to four stores instead of six because they have al- enough amid the challenges. “Retailers are working ready looked online to see what’s available. That’s through excess spring season inventory and have Journal-only options available leading to the perception of less traffic.” already guided for associated margin pressure; as Other retail sources agreed business is not all such, we believe most retailers are ‘on-to-above’ bad, citing stronger categories such as activewear, their initial 2Q14 plans. We continue to believe that dresses, swim, shoes, accessories, rompers, jump- inventory levels (along with promotional levels) are suits, kimonos, soft flowy woven and knit bottoms, sequentially improving from fall 2013 and expect maxi and wrap-body skirts, handbags, and items them to continue to improve in fall 2014.” with feminine details, particularly lace and crochet. BlueFin Research’s Duval said: “People are Friday, OctOber 17, 2014 And there are retailers that are seen doing doing the right thing by trying to get rid of the in- well, including Nordstrom, Macy’s, Victoria’s ventory. We did see a decline in order size year- WaldOrF=astOria | Nyc Secret, Williams-Sonoma, Crate & Barrel, Tory over-year going into Q3, a more conservative ap- Burch, Michael Kors, Steve Madden and Costco. proach as we go into the back half of the year, Thursday’s comp-store sales releases didn’t clear but retailers have to give [consumers] something up the picture. Victoria’s Secret comp sales gained completely new and different — a compelling rea- 3 percent, though Bath & Body Works, which like VS son to buy. Gone are the days when you could take is a division of L Brands Inc., rose just 1 percent. the bestseller and tweak it and expect to have the Learn More & register The two teen retailers, The Buckle Inc. and same sell-through [in the next season]. People Zumiez, both reported better-than-anticipated might be too optimistic about the second half. comps. Buckle, expected to decline 0.6 percent, We’re probably going to see a slow start to Q3.” was instead 0.7 percent ahead, and Zumiez, expect- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM CEW.org ed to grow just 1.8 percent, moved up 3.1 percent. ARNOLD J. KARR 6 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 beauty Calvin’s New Reveal Philosophy’s Reason to Boost Skin Care COTY’S PHILOSOPHY BRAND is turning a page. dant powers and is excellent at combating free The print campaign was shot Philosophy is emphasizing its skin-care roots radical oxidation,” said Scalamandre. “Coty’s By JULIE NAUGHTON by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott while creating a new charity devoted to well-being. exclusive strain of brown algae was selected and features Dutch supermodel “Philosophy combines science and inspira- for its unique ability to follow and interrupt the GIVEN CALVIN KLEIN’S pen- Doutzen Kroes and British actor tion, empowering beauty from the inside out,” complete pathway of melanin formation from chant for pushing the envelope, Charlie Hunnam in a heated said Jill Scalamandre, chief marketing officer the very first signals initiated by UV exposure or it’s not surprising that the house’s embrace beside the window of of the skin-care division of Coty Inc. Quoting damage to skin.” newest scent is called Reveal. a modern, glass high-rise apart- from the brand’s new manifesto, she contin- The products will be available in August at “It’s a great name that is ment. As the sun sets behind ued, “We encourage conversation, we embrace philosophy.com and in September in the brand’s linked to roots of Calvin Klein,” a dusky skyline, the city is re- generosity, we inspire beautiful skin as well as full distribution, about 1,800 department and spe- said Steve Mormoris, Coty’s chief flected in the window, suggest- beautiful days, so you can feel confident that cialty store doors in the U.S. While Scalamandre marketing officer for fragrance, ing a voyeuristic glimpse at a everything is possible.” declined to discuss sales projections, industry noting that the brand has been sexy game of seduction. The ad While the brand is known for emblazoning its sources estimated the duo could do upward of for decades willing to be contro- will begin running in September philosophies on all of its products, Scalamandre $10 million at retail in its first year on counter. versial with its positioning — to fashion, beauty and lifestyle pointed out that Philosophy was originally a Next week, the brand will unveil its charity reveal what other brands might books in the U.S., in addition to spin-off of Biomedic, founder Cristina Carlino’s arm, the Hope & Grace Initiative. Philosophy shy away from. “With first company. Biomedic, which Carlino sold to will dedicate 1 percent of all sales to commu- this scent, we are cel- L’Oréal in 2001, is widely credited with creating nity-based organizations working to empower ebrating the heritage the “lunchtime peel,” and when Carlino found- women through the promotion and treatment of of the brand and add- ed Philosophy, she kept peels as the core of the mental health. The program will be launched ing an element of ar- brand’s skin-care sales. When Coty acquired next week on philosophy.com. Beginning in chitectural boldness Philosophy in 2010, it continued that skin-care em- January, 1 percent of all sales will be devoted with the bottle.” phasis, said Scalamandre. “Peels are still at the to the cause. Scalamandre noted that within The scent, which heart of our line,” said Scalamandre. Scalamandre five years, the Hope & Grace Initiative is pro- Mormoris described noted that 58 percent of jected to donate more than $10 million. The as a “solar oriental Philosophy’s sales are done in charity takes its name from Philosophy’s with a very luminous skin care. Fragrance accounts for two best-selling products, Hope in a heart,” was concoct- 27 percent, she added, with the Jar moisturizer and Amazing Grace ed by International remainder done in bath and body fragrance. Philosophy will annually Flavors & Fragrances and miscellaneous products. give multiple grants of $25,000 to and has top notes of No Reason to Hide, the support hundreds of qualified or- raw salt signature, The Reveal ad. brand’s newest skin-care offer- ganizations around the world, said pink pepper, white pepper and a comprehensive social media ing, is a product duo intended to Scalamandre. black pepper; a heart of orris, and digital campaign. treat a variety of skin imperfec- “More than any other issue, ambergris and solar accord, and Kroes, who has been doing tions, including blotchiness, dark- mental well-being is directly a drydown of sandalwood, cash- Calvin Klein campaigns for ened and enlarged pores, rough connected to the spirit of the meran and vetiver. more than a decade, had a re- texture, redness, dark spots and Philosophy brand,” she said, Eaux de parfum sprays in veal of her own when she was acne scars. “We believe it’s the pointing out that the brand’s three sizes — 1 oz. for $50, 1.7 oz. offered the fragrance cam- first all-in-one solution proven to packaging has always carried up- for $70 and 3.4 oz. for $90 — will paign: she’d just learned she treat skin imperfections from any lifting messages. “In addition,” be offered, as will a 6.7-oz. body was pregnant with her second source,” said Scalamandre. No she said, “Philosophy becomes lotion, $38; a 6.7-oz. shower gel, child. “The name Reveal was Reason to Hide Multi-Imperfection the first global skin-care and fra- $30, and a 0.3-oz. rollerball, $24. very interesting, since I had Transforming Serum, $68 for 1 oz., grance brand to make a brand- The bottle features two triangu- to reveal something,” she said is a daily treatment designed to wide commitment to dedicate lar-shaped pieces — a silver-tone with a laugh. The ad was shot in be applied under moisturizer or at least 1 percent of all sales for the cap, the other heavy glass January, when Kroes was about foundation. No Reason to Hide toward philanthropic efforts — containing the juice — that form a three months along, she said. Skin-tone Perfecting Moisturizer, with no product restrictions.” pillowy square when put together. She’s scheduled to give birth to $45 for 1 oz., is an instant skin- The first grant is being given Reveal Calvin Klein will a baby girl later this month. tone perfecting moisturizer, said to Bring Change 2 Mind, a na- launch in September in the U.S., Coty declined to discuss sales Scalamandre. She noted that the tional antistigma organization in 4,291 department and specialty projections, but industry sources duo is designed to “prevent further cofounded by actress Glenn store doors. It will begin rolling estimated that the scent could do imperfections from appearing.” Close with the mission to raise into global doors — 130 markets upward of $150 million at retail The key ingredient in both prod- awareness and work to end the in total — at the end of this month. globally in its first year on counter. ucts is brown algae. “In general, stigma and discrimination sur- brown algae contains superantioxi- The No Reason to Hide duo. rounding mental illness. — J.N. More Sparkle for Yellow Diamond MILAN — Versace and Euroitalia Euroitalia president Giovanni Diesel to Launch Only the Brave Wild are introducing a new sparkler: Sgariboldi said the original Versace Yellow Diamond Intense, fragrance’s success had paved come “junglified” as trees sprout up. Directed by a highly concentrated eau de the way for Yellow Diamond By JENNIFER WEIL Edouard Salier, the spots coming in numerous parfum that picks up where its Intense. “[The edt] made a lot lengths mix real and digital images. Woodkid’s 2011 eau de toilette predecessor, of customers loyal to the brand, PARIS — Diesel’s fragrance franchise is show- score plays as an accompaniment. Versace Yellow Diamond, left off. which certainly gave us the ing a new facet with the Only the Brave Wild Salier and André Chemetoff photographed The scent will retain the ad- satisfaction and enthusiasm to men’s scent, due out next week. the print visual featuring the three Only the vertising campaign of the origi- take on this new project,” he It’s the third installment in the collection, Brave scents and their faces. nal edt, shot by Mario said, noting that cen- which launched in 2009 and ranks 10th among Wild’s juice, created by Givaudan perfumers Testino and featur- tral Europe and men’s scents in Europe, according to Nathalie Antoine and Shyamala Maisondieu and Michel ing model Abbey Asia had been Duran, international general manager of de- Girard, is a fougère built around exotic Lee Kershaw, but key regions for signer fragrance brands at L’Oréal. raw materials like citronella. Its essenc- will feature new Yellow Diamond. Each version, Original, The Only the es include grapefruit, black pepper and external packag- With distri- Tattoo and now Wild, is meant Brave Wild nutmeg, while there are accords of ge- ing, with a deep blue bution slated for to show a different side of fragrance. ranium and coconut. box covered in wild 15,000 doors world- bravery and aspect of man. The fragrance will launch exclu- gold swirls. Perfumer wide, Versace “Wild is more about a sen- sively in France’s Nocibé perfum- Alberto Morillas of Yellow Diamond sitivity to the world as it is ery chain on Tuesday, followed Firmenich opted for Intense will mirror now and the will and the by Aug. 4 elsewhere in France, top notes of Diamante the positioning and wish of the young genera- Aug. 18 in the U.K. and early citron, pear sorbet, rollout plan of the tion to reshape [it],” said September in the rest of Europe. neroli and bergamot; original juice, kick- Duran, adding that doesn’t Wild is to be introduced in the a heart of freesia, or- ing off in Italy this mean having to choose be- Americas, save for the U.S. and ange blossom, jasmine Versace Yellow July before reaching tween the urban and natural Canada, in November. and osmanthus, and a Diamond Intense the rest of Europe and realms “but to mix them, to In France, the eau de toilette drydown of benzoin, amber wood, the U.S. in September and the make them more human. And will come in 35-, 50-, 75- and 125- Palo Santo and musk. Far East by 2015. that requires numerous fights. ml. bottles that respectively sell Versace creative director Sgariboldi did not disclose “It’s the message of not be- for 44.90, 50.50, 60.50 and 73.90 Donatella Versace’s love of yel- estimates, but industry sources coming someone else but staying euros, or $61.10, $68.70, $82.30 and low diamonds informed the said the new edp could rake in wild and not giving [up] your…appetite for $100.55 at current exchange. bottle design, which features a 50 million euros, or about $68 space, nature and harmony,” she added. While L’Oréal executives would not discuss multifaceted gemstone cap over million at current exchange, in The message comes through in the film ad- projections, industry sources estimate Wild will a clear glass base that reveals retail sales in its first year on vertisement showing model Willy Cartier run- generate 40 million euros, or $54.4 million, in the highly saturated juice. the shelf. — CYNTHIA MARTENS ning barefoot through urban landscapes that be- first-year retail revenues worldwide. WWD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 7 WWD.COM Karl Lagerfeld photographing Choupette, shown at right as Shupette in a sketch Elana Drell-Szyfer Named by the designer. CEO at Laura Geller Beauty

By JAYME CYK Elana Drell-Szyfer

ELANA DRELL-SZYFER is headed back to beauty. “I’ve been in beauty for 21 years,” said Drell-Szyfer, “and when it’s in your blood, you can’t get it out.” The former executive vice president of global brand strategy at Kenneth Cole has been tapped as chief executive officer of Laura Geller Beauty. In addition, she will also become an operating ad- viser to Tengram Capital Partners for the beauty industry. At Laura Geller, which she to the consumer from a story- Lagerfeld’s Feline Color Touch joined on June 30, Drell-Szyfer is telling point of view needs to be continuing to expand the brand’s updated and evolved.” the Shu Uemura campaign. presence in retail domestically In terms of the logo, the text By MILES SOCHA Model Baptiste Giabiconi gave Choupette and internationally. She will also will be more open, while the to Lagerfeld to watch over during Christmas in continue the re-branding initia- signature red lip is now plump- PARIS — Feline eyes and a pale complex- 2011 and the designer refused to give her back. tive that the Laura Geller team er in a hot pink shade called ion are definitely in. Just ask Choupette, Karl “I thought she was too cute. She is like a kept has been working on for the last Happiful, a color that will be Lagerfeld’s famous, snow-white Siamese cat, woman. She has a strong personality. She has 18 months. added to various products in cur- who is to front a holiday makeup collection for lunch and dinner with me on the table, with her At Tengram Capital Partners rent and upcoming collections. Japanese brand Shu Uemura, WWD has learned. own food,” he said in a 2012 interview. “She even LLC, whose beauty portfolio in- Also, categories on packaging Billing it as the first tie-up between a beau- knows how to use an iPad.” cludes Laura Geller Beauty, Nest like Spackle and Baked will be ty name and a house pet, Shu Fragrances and Devacurl, Drell- called out in a larger font. Uemura is to unveil the range Szyfer is on a mission to help grow For the launch, Laura Geller in the fall under the Shupette the beauty business by recruiting Beauty will introduce its look with by Karl Lagerfeld for Shu executive talent and fine-tuning social media, extensive education Uemura label. strategy. Richard Gersten, part- for in-store employees, merchan- This marks a return engage- ner at Tengram, said the company dising and carton visuals. ment for Lagerfeld, who did a hopes to tap into Drell-Szyfer’s ex- To that end, Laura Geller 17-stockkeeping-unit line for pertise “to think through and en- launched at 55 retail locations of holiday retailing in 2012 that hance our presence in an industry Beauty Brands in February and shipped to some 400 doors that’s very important to us.” is in all 700 Ulta doors where the under the Karl Lagerfeld for Drell-Szyfer is already put- brand’s counter space has been Shu Uemura label. That range ting her knowledge to work. In expanded from three to six feet. was based on a cartoon spokes- October the company will begin Drell-Szyfer would not discuss model he dreamed up called to roll out packaging with a new sales projections, but industry Mon Shu, with red eyes, a jet- logo and visuals. sources estimate Laura Geller black bob and a wardrobe simi- “The story will stay the same Beauty’s re-branded line of 400 lar to the designer’s. A makeup artist and the core will stay the same,” stockkeeping units will gener- Press materials suggest the works on dramatic eyes said Drell-Szyfer. “But the way ate $80 million to $100 million in Shupette range is likely to in- with furry eyelashes. we reach out and open our arms first-year retail sales globally. clude furry false eyelashes, and includes a quote from the cat, calling herself “queen of catnaps” and “social Lagerfeld, who designs for Chanel and Fendi media’s most wanted.” in addition to his signature house, has employed Winslet Jets In for Nouvelle Vague Indeed, the Twitter handle @ChoupettesDiary Shu Uemura makeup to hand-color his illustra- PARIS — Kate Winslet jetted into Paris especially for the Lancôme boasts 37,000 followers and the following introduc- tions for more than 20 years. bash Wednesday night to celebrate its Nouvelle Vague project for tion: “I’m a famous beauty who refuses to eat on Founded in 1983 and controlled by L’Oréal which three Paris-based designers created couture makeup bags. the floor and my maids pamper my every need. I since 2003, the brand’s namesake was a Tokyo- It’s remarkable the actress — and Lancôme face — found the am Choupette Lagerfeld and I am a spoiled pussy.” born Hollywood makeup artist who died on time. “I am actually quite busy at the moment because I have the se- Lagerfeld already photographed his cat for Dec. 29, 2007 at age 79. quel to ‘Divergent’ I am shooting very soon,” she said, sitting in the Palais Brongniart, the former seat of the French Stock Exchange. “Then at the end of the year I am going to Australia to do a movie called ‘The Dressmaker,’ which is all set in the Fifties and it’s kind of a Bensimon Lights Up With Scent black comedy,” continued Winslet. She said her character, the lead in the film KELLY KILLOREN BENSIMON Kelly “It’s for the cooler nights directed by Jocelyn Moorhouse, is someone has taken her Hamptons lifestyle Killoren when the sun goes down who left a small town she grew up in to travel Bensimon Kate and transformed it into a candle. and you’re on the sea,” said the world. Winslet “Like a fragrance, the smell Damide. “It’s very romantic “The beginning of the movie is when of a candle follows you,” said and very sophisticated.” she comes back to the town a changed Bensimon. “I used to live in Containing notes of rose, woman to seek revenge on some people the same building as François jasmine, carnation and lily, the who have accused her of doing some- Nars and I always [told him he] candle is packaged in frosted thing bad when she was young,” said smells so good. And he told me pink glass with gold writing. Winslet. “It feels really weird to talk it was his candles.” Aside from working on her about the character I haven’t played The former model and candle, Killoren Bensimon yet, you know.” ex-regular on “The Real is busy working on a book, That said, she had a clear idea Housewives of New York City” contributing to AM New York about a new role she would appreciate has teamed with François and getting her M.B.A. from having in the future. “I’d like to play Damide, founder and presi- Northeastern online. a man,” said Winslet. “I just think it dent of Crafting Beauty, to “My kids and I usually all would be the ultimate challenge.” create Baiser Rose, the first Baiser Rose study together,” she noted. Lancôme’s Nouvelle Vague ini- candle in Damide’s new Baiser With Damide and Killoren tiative involved designers Simon candle collection inspired by Bensimon expected to be in Porte Jacquemus, Alexandre American muses. attendance, the company will Vauthier and Yiqing Yin crafting “Being French and embrac- kick off the launch on Saturday makeup bags to hold a trio of the ing the country, I wanted to cre- at Scoop’s East Hampton loca- label’s key products — L’Absolu ate a bridge between France tion. Baiser Rose, 7 oz. for $65, Rouge lipstick, Hypnôse Star mas- and America,” he said, adding will be exclusive to the fashion cara and Hypnôse Palette eye shad- that American icons will fig- chain until Labor Day and will ow. The one requirement for the cre- ure prominently in the mix. “It then roll out to other boutiques ations, which came out in mid-June, could be women or men.” and specialty stores. was that the iconic Lancôme rose some- FEUGÈRE IANNACCONE The name Rose was chosen Damide declined comment how figure into their design. based on Killoren Bensimon’s on sales projections, but indus- “Lancôme is a luxury beauty brand, THOMAS favorite shade of pink and is in- try sources estimated that Baiser and creativity plays an important role in STÉPHANE BY spired by the feel of summer and BY Rose could do $250,000 at retail it,” said Françoise Lehmann, general man-

— PHOTO the breeze of the Hamptons. PHOTO in its first year on counter. — J.C. ager of Lancôme International. J.W. 8 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014

Zuhair Murad: Zuhair Murad used graphic tone-on-tone Zuhair Murad Loris Azzaro embroideries to create peekaboo effects on column dresses in his signature sheer fabrics. A wave pattern appeared like a natural evolution of the zebra prints he showed last couture, while an Art Deco spirit pervaded some of the geometric motifs, like the one running across a short silver dress with pointed sleeves and hem. The Lebanese designer used black and white to great effect, whether on a draped bustier gown that was neatly split in half for a yin-and-yang effect, or on a bomber jacket embroidered with an abstract checkerboard pattern worn over a stiff black skater skirt. The monochrome looks contrasted with vibrant marine and turquoise shades that evoked visions of the Riviera. Murad also nodded to couture trope with a crimson strapless ballgown featuring an asymmetric ruffle train. While it was technically accomplished, his sparkly creations were more likely to win the youth vote.

Ralph & Russo: For its second show in Paris, London-based Ralph & Russo took a cue from interiors photographer Massimo Listri — especially the Rad Hourani details and light in his images. Most pieces in this collection Fred Sathal shimmered with crystal and pearl embellishments, decorating, for instance, a blue-gray sable dress and an off-white number in wool crepe. This opulent line also included jumpsuits and ballgowns chockablock with dramatic ruffles, trailing trains and sweeping capes — all in lush colors such as dark purple, midnight blue and crimson. Some less voluminous looks included a gown in magenta and black organza with Perspex flowers and velvet details, and a black silk dress with tulip sleeves. Fall 2014 The label late last month said it has a new minority investor: John Caudwell, the British businessman and Paris Couture philanthropist who made his fortune with mobile phones. At the time Ralph & Russo, whose THE COLLECTIONS creative director is Tamara Ralph and president and chief CAME TO A CLOSE WITH executive officer is Michael INTRICATE EMBROIDERIES Russo, said the investment AND SPANGLES FOR NIGHT would fuel its diversification and expansion. AND SOME INTERESTING LAYERINGS FOR DAY. Loris Azzaro: Slithery gowns that exposed the flesh through tearlike portholes, as if clawed open by a wild cat, closed couture week in Paris on a sexpot note at the Loris Azzaro show. “It’s about this panther, this woman who comes out at night,” Alvaro Castejón explained backstage, his theme a bit far. Shardlike edgy look,” he said. Delphine Manivet: Having built Manivet’s contrast of velvet co-creative director Arnaud embroideries that resembled Arabesque designs popped in a solid business with bespoke and triple organza played Maillard showing off animal- a smashed mirror, embedded rich colors on everything from a bridal, Delphine Manivet’s nicely with light and texture, spot appliqués in silicon that on the front of dresses, more beaded dress hemmed in mink debut couture collection was but a touch of irreverence glistened like caviar on a black effectively telegraphed the heat to an impressive coat paved a timid yet promising first step would make her offering tuxedo jacket. and frenzy of the club scene. in bullion embroideries. They into grand eveningwear. While more dynamic. But for a few biker jackets were also laser cut into a skirt. a few tweed robe coats were and snug Eighties cocktail suits, Rami Kadi: Lebanon-raised Striking looks included a reminiscent of Paul Poiret and Dice Kayek: For her debut the Spanish duo focused on designer Rami Kadi riffed on long dress with bold geometric not particularly modern, what couture collection at Dice second-skin evening columns arabesque patterns for his first patterns in blue, yellow and stood out were voluminous Kayek, Ece Ege thought up and sparkly minidresses, couture presentation in Paris red, reminiscent of tiles, and ballgowns and ethereal dresses a fictitious winter garden in returning the brand to its after three years in business. a pale blue wedding gown in cotton tulle or silk. which characters — “part- nightlife-loving legacy — and “I wanted to come and bring with woven gold-and-silver A striking group of simple women, part-flowers,” she said the couture stage after a three- Arabic culture, so I got inspired filigree. The collection — with black dresses was inspired — come to life. decade absence. from everything that has to do silhouettes ranging from form- by French painter Pierre Her 15 looks impressed The 3-D animal-paw with Arabic architecture, and fitting to flaring — was opulent, Soulages, who’s known for his with remarkable trompe l’oeil embroideries took the cougar did it in a very modern, trendy, yet wearable. monochrome black painting. constructions, imitating flowers’ WwD friday, july 11, 2014 9 WWD.COM

Ralph & Russo Rami Kadi Dice Kayek

Rad Hourani

Delphine Manivet Serkan Cura Giannoni For more

IMAGES, see Giovanni by s r e

WWD.com/ h

runway. ot all a; r u M

k anc r F by Kadi Rami let; r e B

e h istop Chr

by anivet M

ine h elp D

e; r aît M

ominique D

by otos h p k Kaye ice D

and ani r Hou Rad

petals, calyxes and stamens. How she managed to defy it? Serkan Cura: Serkan Cura’s plastron inspired by ancient guests waiting for 50 minutes. Named Bluebell, an ice- “That’s top secret. But there arresting feather creations are Greek jewelry. When the models blue wool crepe coatdress were a lot of wires and a lot of finally becoming as wearable Cura was particularly eventually emerged, they were featured puffy sleeves and thermo-bonding involved.” as they are dramatic, allowing excited about his short decked out in her signature an impeccably shaped bow a potential client to sit down in wedding dress, sculpted from embroidered creations that resembling the plant’s tubular Rad Hourani: For fall couture, them, for example. feathers that were painted ranged from sweatshirts blossoms. An origami top in Rad Hourani’s intricate layers The designer worked with one of the designer’s thickly encrusted with silk organdy, paired with an included belted, kimono-wrap heron feathers into a flouncy, secret formulas. “You coat it, spangles and loose threads to artfully draped silk satin skirt, jackets and multicollared car-wash skirt attached to a it pops like popcorn, and then marble-dyed caftans with just approximated a camellia, while trenches. The designer slightly corset, another Cura specialty. it becomes very strong,” he a smattering of sequins. one wondered how the Peony, pivoted away from his strict Silver-plated goose feathers explained backstage. Short dresses with lace a nude wool crepe dress with a black-and-white aesthetic, flecked the midriff of a pants- skirts had a flapper vibe about large blossom erupting from the injecting a pinch of glitter into cum-bodice ensemble, as well Fred Sathal: Making her catwalk them, yet there was still a model’s hip, managed to stay the fabrics via silver threads as a magnificent gown made comeback after an eight- “greatest hits” feel to this upright during the walk. and sequins, while a crisp from pheasant feathers — 33 year hiatus, French designer lineup, giving little impression “We struggled a lot against bottle-green hue added vigor to pounds of them — its corseted Fred Sathal opened the Paris that Sathal has evolved during gravity,” Ege said backstage. an artichoke-shaped jacket. waist topped with a beaded couture season by keeping her time out of the spotlight.

w11a008(9)a;7.indd 2 7/10/14 5:34 PM 07102014174402 10 WWD FRIDAY, JUNE 11, 2014 eye WWD.COM THE WORK OF French artist and “Blue-black on brown,” 1981. outré visionary Hello, Jerry Jean-Paul Goude has taken up residence at Issey Miyake’s ON WEDNESDAY NIGHT, actor 21_21 Design Sight Michael Pitt, known mostly for Jen Brill museum in Tokyo. serious dramas like Bernardo The show, titled Bertolucci’s “The Dreamers” and “Image-Makers,” HBO’s “Boardwalk Empire,” is part of a group was trying out something of a exhibit that opened comedy routine. last week and He was at the Dia Art serves as a mini Foundation’s Chelsea space in retrospective of New York, where Rag & Bone Goude’s work, most was showing its spring men’s notably his creative collection as a presentation and collaborations with photo exhibit. former muse and Pitt had recently posed in lover Grace Jones. In Coney Island, N.Y., for the addition to his work label’s fall campaign. as a photographer, “Basically, I met David and Goude was also Marcus at a bar,” the actor said an art director at referring to designers Neville and Esquire magazine Wainwright. “They locked me in a in New York during bathroom and they wouldn’t let the Seventies

me get out. At first, it was funny. and has created GOUDE And they said, ‘Listen, we’re ad campaigns for not going to let you out of this Chanel and Galeries Mmm Mmm Goude bathroom unless you sign on to Lafayette. Goude JEAN-PAUL do our campaign. And I was like, Gemma said it made sense BY ‘Seriously, guys, this is not funny.’” Hamilton to show the images The actor was just getting and in Tokyo since Jones PHOTO started with his bit. Glenna was fond of Miyake’s “I was there for an hour and Neece designs, a factor that helped cultivate his interest is a video installation that offers a playful take on a half. Finally, I said, ‘Sure, in her. Parisian public transportation: a strip of 12 TV I’ll f--king do it,’” he said. “I’m “Suddenly the combination of purity in design screens showing footage of a subway train that afraid of them kind of. He’s and the wildness of Grace was something that zooms past a series of platforms without stopping very tall,” he said pointing to I adored and that motivated me to do more. So for any passengers. Nostalgists should also check whippet-thin Wainwright. when we got on tour together I was definitely out video clips from Goude’s 1972 appearance In truth, Pitt first worked inspired.…It was very important for me to bring on “The Mike Douglas Show” in which the artist with the designers last year for this back,” Goude said. tried to explain the benefits of wearing 12- the fall ad campaign, when he Among the pieces in the exhibit is a motorized inch heels and shoulder pads. Goude said the was paired with French actress mannequin that moves up and down a track interview with the TV host didn’t go that well so Léa Seydoux. His counterpart this and displays Goude’s “Constructivist Maternity he had to make some cuts to the footage. time is Winona Ryder. Dress.” He designed the geometric, sculptural “He didn’t get it. He mixed up the design For spring, Wainwright and gown of polyurethane foam, cardboard, felt and and the sense of personal showbiz with sexual Neville eschewed a runway steel to accommodate Jones’ large frame during a orientation,” he said. “He really looked at me show for a gallery installation disco performance — one extra complication was like I was a big fairy and I really didn’t like it, featuring a selection from the that she was pregnant with his child at the time. you know?” Goude’s most iconic photos of Jones are also on Helene Kelmachter curated the exhibition, collection hanging on the walls Ethan show, including the spliced image that gave the which also features 24 moody lithographs by and a photo exhibit of a diverse Green singer’s jaw an overstretched appearance and David Lynch, a series of video portraits from cast of characters wearing in Rag & served as the cover of her 1985 album “Slave to Robert Wilson and a display of footwear designer their designs. They include Bone. everyone from Jerry Seinfeld and the Rhythm.” Noritaka Tatehana’s heel-less platform shoes. Carmelo Anthony to Gerald DeCock, a Images and interpretations of Goude’s other Photographer Hal’s images of Japanese couples hairstylist and lifelong Chelsea two main muses — model and actress Farida vacuum-packed in plastic round out the show, Hotel bon vivant. Seinfeld, in Khelfa and his current wife Karen Park-Goude — which runs through Oct. 5. particular, appears unshaven also featured prominently. Another notable work — AMANDA KAISER and gruff, more like Bizarro Jerry, really. Wainwright said that was the comic’s own doing. “We didn’t tell him what to WWD POSTCARD do. He didn’t have a job. He just HONG needed to turn up and do what A STOP DURING MY HONEYMOON 18 years ago was the KONG he wanted,” the designer said. last time I’d visited Hong Kong, so I was excited to go back to 2014 Though Seinfeld and celebrate the “World of Aerin” at Lane Crawford. Hong Kong Anthony didn’t show up at seems to change every minute. It’s amazing how many new the gallery, some of the more buildings have popped up since my last trip. insider-y names in the photographs did — models Glenna Neece, Of course, my first stop was a visit to the Lane Crawford Camille Rowe and Ethan Green; restaurateur Lincoln Pilcher; Glen space. I love watching quietly as customers come in to shop. Luchford, who shot the fall campaign, and Lucy Chadwick, director Then, we headed to the Luk Yu Tea House for a dim sum of the gallery Gavin Brown’s Enterprise. Pitt came with young lunch. I had actually visited this restaurant when I was there French actress Astrid Bergès-Frisbey, his costar in “I Origins.” before; it’s as traditional as they come. Though it was hot inside the wide-open gallery, even more so I met such amazing people at the Lane Crawford event. than outside, the waitstaff passed out the kind of food usually The evening was capped off with dinner at The China Club. reserved for tailgate parties, like baby-back ribs garnished with I’ve been there before but always love seeing the traditional tiny American flags. decor juxtaposed with the modern Chinese art on each floor. “Yeah, f--k it,” Wainwright said of the ribs. “You only live once.” I’m always rushing home after a business trip, but I — ERIK MAZA managed to fit in some time to explore the island. The day started in Stanley on the south side, which is more Astrid Bergès-Frisbey with residential and very lush. It’s a beautiful quiet seaside town Michael Pitt in Rag & Bone. with a fun market. There are really fun gifts for children like traditional silk pajamas and cute chopsticks with characters on them. On the way back to Central, we stopped for a walk around The Peak. It’s incredible to see Hong Kong from the highest point. Luckily, it was a clear morning so I had a beautiful view of Kowloon and the harbor. From there it was a quick trip to the flower market. I love visiting flower markets in different countries. In Hong Kong they sold tons

of orchids and craspedia, native to Australia and New LAUDER Zealand. After a quick stop on Gough Street for FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE AERIN

some shopping, I headed back to the Four Seasons OF for a massage. WWD.com/eye.

EICHNER Overall, it was an exciting few days away. I wish I

could have spent more time in Asia, but it’s time to COURTESY

STEVE head back to New York City. Aerin Lauder BY — AERIN LAUDER PHOTO PHOTOS WWD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 11 WWD.COM

company went public, and is in the process of evaluating the business. Fashion scoops MeMo pad When asked whether her departure had anything to do with that TWO TO TANGO: Raf Simons’ fall men’s wear refer to and bring with me wherever T+l’S NOVOGROd TO GeT SOMe R+R: It’s streamlining process, Novogrod said it collection, a collaborative effort with I go. Rock has a pure and wild soul, a the end of an era for Travel + Leisure. was “unrelated.” California artist Sterling Ruby, is getting woman who embodies this style feels Nancy Novogrod, editor in chief of the “I think Time Inc. feels its own e-commerce site, plus a clublike free and seductive.” Time Inc.-owned travel glossy, told her disappointed that I won’t oversee T+L. pop-up shop in Antwerp, Belgium. Zanotti will also launch two more staff Thursday that she will retire. I love change,” she said. “Retiring has Inthenameof.be is to open for capsules by the end of the year. Novogrod, who helmed the travel been on my mind for around three business on Tuesday and close Sept. 1, — AleSSANdRA TuRRA magazine for 21 years, will help years off and on, but I loved my job so each week offering a group of items for conduct the search much and I love to a limited time. It will ship worldwide. lOTTi ReTuRNS: Italian leather goods for her successor, Nancy travel.” The physical store, located in an maker Gianfranco Lotti is making and remain at the Novogrod Novogrod’s under-construction retail space at 16 a comeback. The brand, originally magazine until the next chapter will Lange Gasthuisstraat, is to open Sept. founded in the Sixties, was acquired new editor is named. include writing a 4 on weekends only, serving up a new by German investment fund Halder “I’m looking book — one that is decor, merchandising and last September via its purchase for someone unrelated to travel vibe each week with DJ For more of Florentine parent company who obviously — about powerful sets alongside the fashion, scoops, see Bottega Manifatturiera has a strong women. She will also through Oct. 13. Borse, or BMB, which also understanding of continue to travel The retail concept WWD.com. manufactures leather goods for digital and print, for her own leisure was initiated by Simons, other luxury brands. someone who has a and explore other his commercial director “Because of a lack of vision and loves to interests in the arts. Charlotte Arts and the photographer Willy resources, the brand was no longer travel and someone “I’ll see where Vanderperre. — MileS SOChA available on the market,” chief with a strong style life leads,” she executive officer Franco lucá explained, sense,” Novogrod said, explaining ZANOTTi CelebRATeS: Giuseppe Zanotti while noting Lotti was popular in Asia told WWD. that while she continues the celebrations for the until a few years ago. Along with Time won’t return to 20th anniversary of his luxury The first step in the brand’s revival Inc. executive vice the industry as an footwear label. was the opening, during couture president and chief editor, she would After hosting a more intimate week in Paris, of a 1,550-square-foot content officer Norman Pearlstine and entertain the idea of consulting. “T+L dinner at New York’s Waverly Inn boutique on the city’s Rue Saint executive vice president evelyn Webster, has a great future. It felt like it was restaurant last Novogrod said she will search for an a good moment [to retire] now. The month, the designer editor who can “create a new future” magazine is on a very solid footing.” is throwing a party for the magazine, which will include According to the Media Industry in Ibiza today. executing strategies to allow print to Newsletter, as of July, T+L’s Supermodel Karolina “thrive in the digital age.” advertising pages totaled 534, Kurkova will be the This will include building new constituting a 3 percent rise over last guest of honor at businesses around the T+L brand, she year. In 2013, T+L’s total paid and the event, which said, and growing its social media and verified circulation slid 1.3 percent to will include a digital presence. 973,447, but single-copy sales grew 15.1 cocktail party at the That appears to be the broader percent to 29,478 over the prior year, designer’s pop-up strategy for Time Inc., which itself is the Alliance for Audited Media said. store located at the in a period of transition. In June, the — AleXANdRA STeiGRAd Spanish island’s luxurious Marina Botafoch, followed by a dinner at the exclusive Lio Club. Zanotti, who sold a 30 percent stake inside the Gianfranco lotti boutique. of his company, Vicini SpA, to LVMH Moët Hennessy Honoré, in a space formerly occupied Louis Vuitton’s private equity L by Alberta Ferretti. Capital last December, is also The two-story space offers bags for catering to his loyal customers as part women and men as well as small leather of the celebrations. goods and accessories, including small space After releasing an all-gold shoe ties and belts, and a capsule line of limited-edition collection called Jewel cashmere accessories. Its bags are all in June, the designer is gearing up to distinguished by the brand’s “keyhole” launch an additional capsule, called signature detail. Rock ’n’ Roll, hitting stores in September. The brand’s designs will continue “Rock ’n’ Roll is where this to be based on “craftsmanship and collection begins and ends. My timeless style,” said Lucá at a cocktail second capsule collection is both a party Wednesday night. tribute to my 20th anniversary and to A store in Florence is to follow in rock; an homage to a genre of music September, and one in Milan early next that defined an era and influenced year. Two Chinese boutiques are also fashion,” Zanotti told WWD. “I always planned before the end of 2014. The say that fashion and music are brand will only operate through its own deeply entwined. This relationship stores in the midterm. is perfectly epitomized on the cover “Our aim is to become a global of vintage rock ’n’ roll magazines. I luxury player in the next two years,” keep an archive of them that I always said Lucá. — AleX WYNNe Big American Apparel Shares Jump the board, but the five other members By EVAN CLARK will be replaced. Business An independent board committee INVESTORS drove shares of American is being formed to oversee the continu- Apparel Inc. up 21.3 percent Thursday, ing investigation into the alleged mis- celebrating both the company’s $25 mil- conduct that led to the suspension of WWD Marketplace is the premier destination lion financing deal and the cease-fire Charney, who had been president, chief between founder Dov Charney and the executive officer and chairman. board that sought to oust him. Charney fought his dismissal and for the industry’s classified and career listings. The stock jumped 18 cents to $1.03 and teamed with Standard, giving the inves- logged the strongest performance of the 100 tor the leverage it needed to negotiate shares in the WWD Global Stock Tracker, the deal. But he didn’t get his old job which fell 0.7 percent to 99.44 for the day. back. He is serving as a strategic con- American Apparel said late sultant until the investigation is finished 800.423.3314 Wednesday it had reached a deal with and has denied wrongdoing. New York-based Standard General, Charney’s been in New York lining which in addition to providing financing, up the deal with Standard. Reached wwd.com/marketplace will play a big roll in reshaping the com- Thursday, he said he was taking in the pany’s board. Cochairmen Allan Mayer scene in Central Park and declined to and David Danziger will continue to lead comment otherwise.

w11a011a;6.indd 11 7/10/14 7:21 PM 07102014192155 100top

THE BEST IN BEAUTY Advertise among the industry’s most infl uential brands and leading power players

CLOSE DATE: 7/18 ISSUE DATE: 8/8 | BONUS DISTRIBUTION: TFWA CANNES

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT: [email protected], 212.630.3778 WWDSECTION II MILESTONES

The new Puig Tower in Barcelona. Puigat 100 Jean Paul Gaultier A fragrance and fashion powerhouse marks a century in business.

Carolina Herrera GIANNONI GIOVANNI

Nina Ricci Paco Rabanne PHOTOS BY RUNWAY 2 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDMILESTONES Marc Puig Puig’s Ambitious Plans The family’s third-generation chief executive officer outlines strategic initiatives to carry the company forward. By Jennifer Weil

HINDSIGHT MAY BE 20/20, but sole members of the family’s save for Rabanne, which is run Puig, which celebrates its cen- third generation to be involved by José Manuel Albesa, Puig’s tenary this year, also has clear in the company’s management.) chief brand officer. goals for 2020 and beyond. More than a decade later, “Attracting someone like That’s the deadline for the Puig struck again, this time Ralph Toledano is proof that family-owned firm to become taking a controlling interest in we are serious about these ac- the world’s third-ranked pres- Jean Paul Gaultier’s fashion tivities, and I think it’s proof tige fragrance player with business, in 2011. The lucrative that we can attract good tal- 12 percent market share and fragrance part of the label will ent,” said Puig. produce zero waste and zero revert to Puig in mid-2016. The fashion labels, which re- gasses, among other goals out- Perfume and fashion activ- ceive royalties from fragrance lined by Marc Puig, the compa- ities have a strong symbiotic activity, are run individually. ny’s chairman and chief execu- relationship, and the upside “They have their own teams, tive officer. can be huge. “When you look creativity and organization, even “Midterm, our aim is to be- at the top rankings of the fra- Web sites,” said Puig. “We are come a luxury brand owner grance world, there is increas- not trying to apply one formula with a hybrid model in the fra- ingly a correlation between a to every house. Some houses are grance category, with owned strong fashion house and a profitable and some clearly are brands and licensed brands,” strong fragrance house,” said not profitable at this point.” said Puig, sitting in the compa- the ceo. “The brands that Nina Ricci is seen as one of ny’s sleek new Paris headquar- have a reality beyond fra- Puig’s houses with the most po- ters on the Avenue des Champs- grance are the ones that have tential “because of the aware- PASK Élysées. The firm’s fashion the staying power.” ness and recognition of the

business — including Carolina “Fashion amplifies the noise brand worldwide,” he said. “But NATHAN Herrera, Paco Rabanne, Nina of the brand,” added Manuel that house would have to earn BY Ricci and Jean Paul Gaultier — Puig. “When you do it right, you its right to grow because fashion is a key driver for this. can make a lot of noise with lim- has to be the engine, clearly, for PHOTO Puig dipped into the lux- ited resources.” [it] to develop.” billion. About 75 percent of its However, the Puig family ury world in the Sixties with Meanwhile, fashion brands Gaultier has another model. fragrance business is made by holding could invest in a pure Rabanne, as its licensee. are often buoyed financially “We have a partner; we cannot its own brands, with approxi- fashion player. “What happened over time is by the hefty sales generated by make decisions on our own,” he mately 25 percent through its The ceo maintained, “We al- that at some point, some of the their fragrance businesses. said, referring to the designer. licensed labels. ready have a portfolio that we licensors with whom we were There are, of course, ex- “We’re going to work with him, “For a family business that see has great potential to grow working — for whatever reason ceptions like Paco Rabanne, hand-in-hand, and make prog- looks long term and generation if we do the right things. Our — approached us and said they whose fashion prowess today ress at a pace [at which we are after generation, our idea is to priority at this point is to make needed support,” said Puig, is still to be proven while its both comfortable].” have a balanced portfolio [in sure that we take the most po- whose grandfather founded the fragrance activity is estimated Fashion today comprises a which] we can make our own tential out of what we have, and firm. “Our initial reaction was to be among the top five in the small part of Puig’s overall ac- brands successful and at the grow in depth.” to protect what we had but not world already with such hits as tivity. The executives would not same time build a healthy and “We are not a collector of necessarily to do much with it.” 1 Million and Invictus. discuss specific numbers, but sustainable license business,” brands,” added Manuel Puig. This was mostly in the Marc Puig cited the impor- Puig said that over the past few said Puig. Puig signed a long-term Eighties and Nineties, when tance of running fashion and years, fashion has grown either The door isn’t closed for agreement to create, develop Puig also purchased Carolina fragrance businesses separately. at the same pace or faster than more acquisitions. In fashion, and distribute new United Herrera. A strategic turning “Organizations can do a lim- total sales, which in 2013 ad- the firm showed interest in Colors of Benetton fragrances, point came in 1998, with Nina ited number of things right, and vanced 1 percent to 1.5 billion Valentino when it was for sale which began Jan. 1. Ricci’s acquisition. if you try to brand the fragrance euros, or $1.99 billion at aver- a few years ago, for instance. “One reason we are inter- “We realized it was an oppor- business as if it were a fashion age exchange. On a like-for-like Puig acquired the Valentino fra- ested in a brand like Benetton tunity to [advance] our model,” activity or vice versa, most like- basis, revenues rose 5 percent. grance license in 2010, before is because one of the big op- explained Puig. ly you are going to fail,” he said. Between 2004 and 2013, over- the fashion house was for sale. portunities in the years to come “The importance of a brand In 2012, Puig tapped Ralph all company sales have risen 7 “If we were to get involved in will be in emerging markets and is not just to own it. It’s to build Toledano, formerly Chloé’s percent annually. another fashion house, it would the growth of the middle class,” it,” said his cousin, Manuel chairman and ceo, to become Industry sources estimate be one that already had either a explained Marc Puig. “In those Puig, the company’s vice chair- president of its fashion divi- Puig’s 2013 beauty revenues reality or a potential reality for areas, in order to have critical man. (Marc and Manuel are the sion, overseeing all the brands were 1.32 billion euros, or $1.75 fragrance,” said Puig. {Continued on page 4}

1979 2003: Prada’s joint venture. TEAMˆ-ARIANO0UIG s!NTONIO0UIGDIES *R -ARC0UIG -ANUEL 0UIGAND*AVIER#ANO Puig’s First Century 1987 ˆASTHElRMSNEW s0UIGACQUIRESTHEFULL0ACO LEADERSHIP 1914 1959 2ABANNEBRAND s0UIGPURCHASES.INA s!NTONIO0UIGESTABLISHES s4HECOMPANYBEGINSEXPORTING 2ICCIFROM3ANOl !NTONIO0UIG3! 1988 1962 s#AROLINA(ERRERASlRST 1999 1922 s0UIGSTARTSA53SUBSIDIARY FRAGRANCEBOWS s0ACO2ABANNE s0UIGLAUNCHES-ILADY DISCONTINUESCOUTURE LIPSTICK 1966 1990 s-OANA ABATH AND BODYLINE IS s0ACO2ABANNEREADY TO WEAR 2000 1940 CREATED MAKESITSDEBUT s0UIGBUYS-YRURGIA INCLUDINGFRAGRANCE s!GUA,AVANDAIS BRANDS«GATHA2UIZDELA0RADAAND!DOLFO INTRODUCED 1968 1995 $OMINGUEZ s!GUA"RAVAMENS s0UIGBUYS#AROLINA(ERRERAS s4HElRST#(STOREOPENS 1946 Antonio Puig SCENTLAUNCHES FASHIONHOUSE s4HROUGHAVENTUREWITH#HALHOUB 0UIG s.EWCOMPANY s0ACO2ABANNE ENTERSTHE-IDDLE%AST HEADQUARTERSANDFACTORY FRAGRANCELICENSING 1997 AREBUILTON"ARCELONAS4RAVESSERADE'RËCIA DEALISSIGNED s#AROLINA(ERRERAINTRODUCES 2001 THEFRAGRANCELABEL s*AVIER#ANOBECOMES0UIGPRESIDENT 1950s 1969 s!NTONIO"ANDERASFRAGRANCE s0UIGPURCHASES0ERFUMERIA'AL s!NTONIO0UIGSFOURSONSJOINTHEFAMILY s0ACO2ABANNESlRST LICENSEISSIGNED BUSINESS ANDHEGRADUALLYGIVESTHEM FRAGRANCE #ALANDRE AND 2002 CONTROL 0UIGS!ZURLAUNCH 1998 s0UIGSIGNSAFRAGRANCELICENSINGAGREEMENT s-ARIANO0UIGSTEPSDOWN WITH#OMMEDES'ARÎONS 1957 1976 ASCEO ANDHISTHREEBROTHERS s%XPORTSSURPASSHALFOF0UIGSTOTAL s-ARIANO0UIGBECOMESCHIEFEXECUTIVE s0UIGBUILDSAFACTORYIN A 1968 launch. LEAVETHEIRMANAGEMENT BUSINESS OFlCER #HARTRES &RANCE ROLES4HEYNAMEAFOUR MAN {Continued on page 4}

4 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDMILESTONES

brands, such as Lactovit, Kinesia and Puig’s Ambitious Plans Denenes, for example. Puig also focused A Patriarch Reflects {Continued from page 2} on its hybrid model, set the goal of reach- mass, to be able to build your own struc- ing 10 percent market share in fragrances "/2.)."!2#%,/.!IN PEOPLE;WHOSEPROFESSIONALISMWECOULD ture…you need a presence in the masstige and, to do that, mandated that brands cre- -ARIANO0UIG ONEOFFOUNDER!NTONIO TRUST=4HENWECREATEDPRODUCTS)NTHE fragrance category. Otherwise, the prestige ate compelling narratives. 0UIGSFOURSONS BECAMEACHEMICAL EARLY3IXTIES WEFOUNDACOMPANYINTHE market is still very small.” The strategy has born fruit. Over the past ENGINEERANDISALSOAGRADUATEOF)%3% 53TODISTRIBUTEOURPRODUCTSTHERE Puig has 21 subsidiaries and its prod- decade, Puig’s net profits have soared from "USINESS3CHOOL(EHELDDIFFERENT !FTERTHREEORFOURYEARS WEREALIZED ucts are sold in more than 140 countries. the 2004 level of 1 million euros, or $1.2 mil- POSITIONSAT0UIGPRIORTOBECOMING THATTOSUCCEEDINTHE53 WENEEDED Years ago, Puig showed its commitment lion, to 176 million euros, or $233.8 million, ITSCHIEFEXECUTIVEOFlCERIN AT A&RENCHPRODUCTCOMINGFROM0ARIS to focus on international expansion in 2013. The business was globalized, as AGE ANDSERVEDINTHATROLEUNTIL 7EHADTHREEALTERNATIVES(IREA and emerging markets. International well, with international sales growing from 4HEEXECUTIVEWASCHAIRMAN &RENCHCOMPANY BUTWEDIDNTHAVE sales have grown to represent 86 per- 51 percent to 86 percent. OFTHE0UIGFAMILYHOLDINGCOMPANY THEMONEYFORTHAT4HESECONDWASTO cent of total turnover in 2013. The latest Last year, the firm solidified its num- #ORPORACIØN%XEA%MPRESARIAL BETWEEN GETREPRESENTATIONOFA&RENCHCOMPANY subsidiaries opened were United Arab ber-six slot in global fragrances, with AND ANDPRESIDENTOFTHE FORDISTRIBUTIONINTHE53WEDIDNT Emirates in 2000, Austria in 2004 and the 8.6 percent market share in the prestige 0UIG&OUNDATIONUNTILTHISPAST-AY(E LIKETHAT;POSSIBILITY=BECAUSEWEWOULD Netherlands in 2009. The firm is develop- scent category. REmECTSONSOMEKEYMEMORIESHERE WORKFORSOMEBODYELSE4HETHIRD ing its business in emerging markets such “I think we have passed that niche — JENNIFER WEIL OPTIONWASTOCREATEOUROWNBRAND as Brazil and Russia — it opened subsid- size,” said Puig, who explained taking the )REMEMBERWEMADETHISDECISIONIN iaries in each in 2010 — and Chile. firm public is not on the horizon today. WWD: (OWWOULDYOU .EW9ORK)COULDNTSLEEP Puig has a wide-ranging fragrance “From a financial point of view, the DESCRIBEYOURFATHER ATALLBECAUSE)THOUGHT brand portfolio, including the Prada li- company is in a very solid position. Any Mariano Puig:(EWASAN h(OWCANWECREATEA cense. “I hope we can make this one of projects that we want to initiate can be fi- OPEN MINDEDPERSON A BRANDIN0ARIS 7EARE the biggest brands worldwide,” nanced with our own internal HARDWORKER(EALWAYS AVERYSMALLCOMPANYx said Puig. resources and those we gen- The new Puig Tower LISTENEDTOPEOPLEAND KNOWNIN3PAIN.OBODY A more recent addition erate,” he said. In the future, in Barcelona. ;AFTER=ASKEDQUESTIONS(E ELSEKNOWSUS(OWCOULD was Valentino, whose design- however, Puig could be willing WASAGREATFATHERANDA WEDOTHAT v"UTTHIS ers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and to consider a public offering if GREATMEMBEROFTHEFAMILY WASTHEREALOPTIONTO Pierpaolo Piccioli, Puig lauded it was being prepared for an- SUCCEED"YCHANCE WE for their “amazing” work. The other generation or consider- WWD: 7ASTHEREPRESSURE ARRIVEDATANAGREEMENT idea here, too, is to translate ing an ambitious project, for FORYOUTOJOINTHEFAMILY WITH0ACO2ABANNE7E that olfactively. instance. “We’re not saying BUSINESS STARTEDTHEBUSINESSWITH “Comme des Garçons is categorically we will never M.P.:.O)TWAS Mariano VERYLITTLECAPITALANDFOUR a very exciting, different ap- look at this.” UNDERSTOOD Puig EMPLOYEESIN&RANCE proach to fragrance, and it’s Puig said there’s never been 7ECREATED#ALANDRE not for everybody, [so] that’s the thought of selling the company, WWD:7HATARESOMEOFYOUREARLIEST ;AWOMENSFRAGRANCE=)TWASAGREAT way we are also approaching as the mandate of the family’s MEMORIESOF0UIG SUCCESSINTHISPERIOD it,” said Puig. third generation was to take M.P.: 7EHADTOWORKINTHECOMPANY 7EDIDNTHAVETHEMONEYTOBUY The firm’s other fragrance the baton from the prior gen- INAVERYDEPRESSEDMOMENTFORALLOF COMPETITIVECOMPANIES BUTWEFELT licenses include designer eration, grow the business and %UROPEˆAFTERTHE;3PANISH=#IVIL7AR OURSELVESABLETOCREATESOMETHING Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada, ce- pass it to the fourth, whose AND7ORLD7AR))4HELATE&ORTIESWAS 7EDEFINEDOURSELVESASBEINGBRAND lebrities Shakira and Antonio members, it has been decided, AVERYDEPRESSEDTIMEFOROURCOUNTRY BUILDERS3OWEWERELUCKYENOUGH Banderas, plus toiletries such are to be trained as sharehold- ANDALLOF%UROPEINGENERAL ANDTHE INTHEEARLY%IGHTIESTOFIND#AROLINA as Agua Lavanda Puig and ers. Currently, there are no CONSUMERMARKETWASVERY VERYSMALL (ERRERA WHENSHESTARTEDHERFASHION Payot skin care. plans that the next generation 3OJUSTSELLINGSOMETHINGWASNOTEASY HOUSEIN.EW9ORK There are rewards and risks will be in management. being a relatively small fam- “Selling the company WWD: $IDYOUALWAYSLIKEFRAGRANCEOR WWD: (OWHAS0UIGMAINTAINEDSUCH ily company. The plus side includes the doesn’t fit with that mandate,” he said. WASITSOMETHINGYOUNEEDEDTOLEARN HEALTHYGROWTH EVENTHROUGH3PAINS ability to look long-term, that certain val- The main focus this year has been FORTHEJOB RECENTECONOMICHARDSHIP ues associated with the family permeate on the company’s 100th anniversary. In M.P.:%ARLYON)REALIZEDTHAT;MINE=WAS M.P.:/URDOMESTICMARKETREPRESENTS throughout the organization, there’s less April, it inaugurated the Rafael Moneo- NOTAREALEXCELLENTNOSE SOWHATWE LESSTHANPERCENTOFTHECOMPANYS leadership change and greater flexibil- designed Puig Tower in Barcelona. The DIDWASEDUCATE;OTHER=PEOPLEFORTHAT GLOBALREVENUES ity. The main dangers are infighting and 23-floor building stands 328 feet high and nepotism, but Puig has mechanisms to try has LEED Gold certification for its energy WWD:7HATWERESOMEOFTHE WWD: 7HATARESOMECHARACTERISTICS to prevent those. and environmental design. In fact, Puig BIGGESTMILESTONESINTHECOMPANYS THATMOSTDElNE0UIGTODAY “I think there are many risks of being has launched a comprehensive program DEVELOPMENTANDWHY M.P.: 4HETWOASSETSWEHAVEARElRST small, especially in a world that is con- to boost sustainability through 2020, based M.P.:)NAFAMILYBUSINESSTHE PEOPLE ANDTHENBEINGABLETODEVELOP solidating. That has been one of our obses- on five areas: product, sourcing, manufac- SUCCESSIONˆCHANGEOFGENERATION BRANDSˆCREATIVITY sions in the past few years,” said Puig, who turing, logistics and employee facilities. ˆISAVERYIMPORTANTMOMENT-Y has acknowledged that 10 years ago, when Assouline published a retrospective tome GENERATIONHASEXPERIENCEDTWO WWD: 7HATPREPARATIONSAREUNDERWAY he took the company reins, it was going for the centennial, a retrospective film was ;OFTHEM= FROMOURFATHERTOMY FORTHEYOUNGFOURTHGENERATIONOF0UIG through a difficult time. The fragrance cat- created, the new corporate Web site went GENERATIONANDFROMMYGENERATION FAMILYMEMBERS egory was mature, there was distribution live and there is to be a presentation of a TOTHENEXTGENERATION)CANSAYNOW M.P.: 7EDLIKEINTHISPERIODOFTIME consolidation and labels had gone from Harvard University case study on Puig. LOOKINGATTHATWITHTHEPERSPECTIVE THATTHEYKNOWTHECOMPANYxANDBE small designer houses to large multina- But once the birthday celebrations fin- OFTIME THATWEHAVEBEENVERYLUCKY ABLETOFOLLOWWHATISGOINGON7E tional, multibrand companies ever more ish, it’ll be back to business entirely. 7EVESUCCEEDEDINBOTH ENABLINGUS HAVEPEOPLEPREPARINGTHEM MEETING demanding of their licensees. The fear was “I believe that we will probably have TOARRIVEATYEARS THEM4HEYCANBEMOREPROlTABLEIN that players like Puig at that point would to again look at certain things differently ;!NOTHERKEYMOMENT=WASWHENWE THEGOVERNANCETHANINTHEEXECUTIVE have difficulty surviving. without changing our course,” said Puig. TOOKRESPONSIBILITY4HElRSTTHINGWEDID STRUCTURE7EAREPREPARING;THEM=TO It opted to exit areas where it felt it “I think companies have to reinvent them- WASTOPUTAROUNDUSVERYWELL TRAINED BECOMERESPONSIBLESHAREHOLDERS couldn’t compete, selling some toiletries selves every now and then.”

s-ANUEL0UIGBECOMESVICECHAIRMAN s0ACO2ABANNEFASHIONRELAUNCHES Puig’s First Century s6ALENTINA THElRST6ALENTINOWOMENS 2008 FRAGRANCEUNDERTHE0UIGLICENSE IS {Continued from page 2} s%NRIQUE0UIGDIES INTRODUCED s0UIGSIGNSA-ANGOFRAGRANCELICENSE s0ACO2ABANNES-ILLIONMENS s0UIGSVENTUREWITH0RADATURNSINTOA SCENTLAUNCHES LICENSINGAGREEMENT 2003 s0UIGSIGNSABEAUTY s0UIGSIGNSA VENTUREFORTHE DEVELOPMENTDEALWITHPOP 2012 MANAGEMENTOF0RADASFRAGRANCEANDSKINCARE STAR3HAKIRA s2ALPH4OLEDANOISHIREDAS The new Paris headquarters PRESIDENTOF0UIGSFASHION opened in 2013. 2004 2010 DIVISION s-ARC0UIGBECOMESCHIEFEXECUTIVE s6ALENTINOINKSAFRAGRANCE s0UIGSIGNSAFRAGRANCELICENSEWITH OFlCER*AVIER#ANOSTEPSDOWNASPRESIDENT LICENSEWITH0UIG 2013 "ENETTON s4HECOMPANYSTARTS s)N0ARIS 0UIGMOVESTOITSNEW 2006 SUBSIDIARIESIN"RAZIL !VENUEDES#HAMPS ²LYSÏES 2014 s0ACO2ABANNEREADY TO WEARIS AND2USSIA HEADQUARTERS s4HECOMPANYSNEWHEADQUARTERSIN SUSPENDED s0ACO2ABANNES)NVICTUSSCENT "ARCELONA 0UIG4OWER ISINAUGURATED 2011 ISINTRODUCED MARKINGTHECOMPANYSTHBIRTHDAY 2007 s0UIGACQUIRESAMAJORITY 2010: Valentino s(ARVARD5NIVERSITYPENSA0UIG s-ARC0UIGADDSTHETITLEOFCHAIRMAN STAKEIN*EAN0AUL'AULTIER is licensed. CASESTUDY SOURCES: PUIG AND WWD ARCHIVES 100 Years 6 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDMILESTONES José Manuel Albesa Building Blocks José Manuel Albesa is Puig’s brand architect. By Jennifer Weil

JOSÉ MANUEL ALBESA has a paigns out after the mandate time she signed a license with room with a view. included an enchanted, mod- the company in 2008, she “had From his fourth-floor of- ern fairy-tale world created been wanting to enter the fra- fice in Puig’s Paris headquar- for Ricci’s apple-shaped Nina grance arena for some time ters, the chief brand officer fragrance in 2006. as a new outlet for expressing can see down the Avenue des Rabanne’s “Be a Rock my creativity. Puig understood Champs-Élysées. But from Star” push from 2011 for its my vision, and we work side by his figurative vantage point, Black XS scent franchise in- side on every step of the pro- Albesa commands a unique volved the label introducing cess, from the composition of scope, thanks to a purview its Web site be-a-rockstar.com the notes to the packaging to spanning all four layers of the with Universal Music Group. the marketing campaigns,” she company’s fragrance holdings, That featured short films said. “They are my partners in both owned and licensed, plus about nine bands and an im- every sense of the word.” a fashion component. mersive game allowing users “The Puig [executives] He described the com- to see the world from a musi- are more like merchants of pany’s perfume portfolio — cian’s perspective. dreams than anything else,” whose products, ranging from Albesa also highlighted said designer Ágatha Ruiz about 10 euros to 120 euros, a campaign from 2008 for de la Prada, whose four fra- or $13.60 to $163.15 at cur- Rabanne’s 1 Million, which is grances are licensed. “They rent exchange, are carried in now among the world’s top-five construct a whole universe of anywhere from 500 to 40,000 selective men’s scents overall. fancy and desire around each doors — as being built in a In the spot, a model dances product that is presented to pyramid structure. and with each snap of his the market. The ideology and Topping it off is “niche” fingers, a seemingly magical aspirational cues of each per- brand Comme des Garçons. thing happens. Once, a car ap- fume are as carefully studied Albesa said niche fragrance pears. In another instance, it’s as the fragrance itself.” consumers are highly sophisti- a bag of money. A third snap “What makes Puig unique in DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE cated, and their “olfactory ex- causes a woman’s dress to fall relation to its approach to fra-

perience makes the big differ- to the ground. grances is its talent for explain- PHOTO BY ence,” with ingredients, quality Helping leverage Puig’s sto- ing the brand values through and craftsmanship being key. rytelling is the rise of digital. perfume,” said Isak Andic, lar fragrances and develop new be to excel in the brands we own “They want to enjoy a unique ex- “With a [TV] spot, you can founder and chairman of Mango, ones together in the pebble[- today,” said Albesa. perience and share it in a small only tell 30 seconds of the another licensor. “Encapsulating shaped] bottle, all the while Each has a different posi- world,” he said. “If you give story, so it’s really through dig- the DNA of a brand into a fra- leaving us free to continue to tioning. Ricci comes with a them the right experience, they ital that we are getting amaz- grance is a difficult task. create and develop our own French heritage and romantic will be your best ambassadors.” fragrance in Paris,” he said. aura, while Rabanne is eclectic Prada and Valentino com- “I believe there is no other li- and audacious, for example. prise the “Premium” labels, cense agreement such as this “In the [mass] arena, we are with the thrust there being in the business, and it has only looking for opportunities at “on the excellence at point worked so well because of the the local level,” said Albesa. of sale,” said Albesa, adding mutual respect and admiration “It’s more focused on local or this includes merchandis- we have for each other’s com- regional brands.” ing, marketing, service, gift- panies, not to mention a great He says the largest business ing and consumer-relations mutual affection.” challenge today is related to management strategies. Albesa believes big po- retail and digital. Carolina Herrera, Paco tential lies ahead. One strat- “I think in the years to Rabanne and Nina Ricci — egy is to continue enriching come, more and more we are Puig-owned brands — make Puig’s storytelling model going to see a digitalization of up the “prestige” group, with an even greater focus retail and we are going to ex- “where our focus is on 360-de- on the consumer. Another is perience ‘retailtainment’ in gree communication; it goes brand-building. digital. So both concepts are from digital to merchandis- Comme des Garçons fragrances. “Now the op- merging,” said Albesa. “No one ing and advertising,” he said. portunity is to build knows where the limits are. “It’s the whole mix that tells a ing results,” he said. brands,” he said. It’s “We see an acceleration in story, and that’s what makes it Nina has the most fans an exercise that’s digital, which is really going coherent and strong.” of any fragrance on been under way at to take off,” he continued. Then there are Puig’s Facebook — more Paco Rabanne, where “For me, this is the big chal- mass-market fragrance labels, than three mil- Albesa oversees both lenge ahead: how the digital which it calls the “beauty” lion — and Carolina the fragrance and landscape is going to change brands, such as Ágatha Ruiz Herrera’s “212 VIP” fashion divisions. consumers’ attitudes, and how de la Prada, Shakira, Antonio Web show boasts more “What’s interest- retail is going to evolve to com- Banderas, Mango and Benetton, than 20 million views. ing is how to build pensate for this. [What’s] re- that are licensed, plus some of Albesa said young a brand with a [sin- ally interesting is how brands Puig’s own products. consumers today are gle] perspective,” are going to touch the consum- “[Their] focus is value for more interested in he said, adding fra- er or the shopper.” money,” said Albesa, who ex- establishing a rela- grance and fashion are Puig is also focused on plained about five years ago tionship with a brand part of that, “so they have continuing organic growth Puig decided to keep some than a product. Mango’s Rebel Hero. to talk the same language.” in view of the goal to reach 25 mass brands, discontinu- “So for us, digital is the best The niche segment shows 12 percent market share by ing about another 25 in the way to tell stories because you “[Fragrance] is a new prod- promise, since the category re- 2020, which would make it category. At the time, the com- have more content, engage- uct category that we have sponds to today’s stores’ quest the third-largest prestige fra- pany commanded approxi- ment, advocacy and can really never developed on our own,” for exclusive brands and con- grance player worldwide. In mately half the market share in relate to them,” said Albesa. he continued. “The extensive sumers’ search for uniqueness. 2013, it ranked sixth with an Spain’s mass channel, and still “Two years ago, we increased distribution channels of Puig “The space allocated by 8.6 percent stake. commands 48 percent. our investment in digital, and and its striking advertising some retailers to these brands “This is a big challenge in “We are now maintain- it has become a priority in the campaigns have helped Mango is amazing, and they are really a market that is not growing ing market share with a big storytelling process.” extend its brand familiarity in working and providing the right today,” he said. reduction of brands,” said Other ways to cement that several markets.” the amount of sell-through,” There’s also the question Albesa, adding the segment brand relationship with young Adrian Joffe, chief executive said Albesa. “I think there is about how best to create ex- is also driving growth in people could include a well- officer of Comme des Garçons room for exploring niche brands citement in the category. Latin America. “We focused placed pop-up store. International, recalled that in the future in our portfolio.” Said Albesa, “The whole busi- on fewer but bigger brands “It is key to go where they Puig approached his label, and Also upcoming is the integra- ness has to be re-enchanted.” through storytelling.” go,” said Albesa. “we created together a revo- tion of Jean Paul Gaultier fra- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS In fact, Puig ramped up the Licensors laud Puig’s abil- lutionary license agreement, grances into Puig, in mid-2016. FROM MILES SOCHA, storytelling in all its fragrance ity to create fragrance brands. whereby they would license “In [prestige fashion brands], CYNTHIA MARTENS AND segments. The first two cam- Pop star Shakira said by the and distribute our most popu- the focus for years to come will PAULINA SZMYDKE from your friends at with Love 8 WWD friday, july 11, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

wwdmilestones Elisabeth Vidal Habit-Forming Fragrances Senior perfumer Elisabeth Vidal uses the powers of scent to stir sales. By Joelle Diderich

ELISABETH VIDAL SEES HER job as sultation process that generally lasts She originally studied chemistry, creating addiction. six to eight months. At this stage, hav- joining Puig through its cosmetics labo- As senior perfumer of prestige ing in-house perfumers is particularly ratory. Having expressed an interest in fragrances at Puig’s Perfumery useful, said Vidal, explaining that they perfumery, she began training in the Center, she is in charge of developing serve as go-betweens for marketers evenings to learn about the different raw scents for Paco Rabanne, Nina Ricci, and perfumers who submit their inter- materials, and was eventually charged Carolina Herrera, Prada, Valentino pretation of the brief. with putting a quality control system in and Comme des Garçons. For each one, “We can translate marketing feed- place in the perfumery division. she is after that elusive combination back in a language more suited to per- Over the next five years, she visited that will provoke desire. fumers,” she explained. industry powerhouses like International “People seek out and accept smells “What I like is when you see the Flavors & Fragrances, Givaudan and they find very addictive linked to cer- response of several perfumers to the Firmenich to learn her trade. Goizé François tain moments in their lives that elicit same brief, because sometimes they Vidal has seen Puig evolve from

an emotional response, and this re- are completely different,” added Vidal. a largely domestic player into a com- Photo by gressive and addictive aspect to per- “Working on several ideas at once pany with a global beauty vision — a fume is very important,” said Vidal, shows you where to take the project process that has accelerated over the Vidal believes that Puig’s strength sitting in an office in Puig’s year-old and helps you stay creative.” last 10 years. comes in part from its high-quality stan- headquarters on the Avenue des It helps that she has known many of “We started to work in a much dards and access to exclusive ingredi- Champs-Élysées in Paris. the perfumers for decades. Now 47, more international way and to look ents, with signature notes including Hitting the right note between Vidal met the likes of Aurélien more for trends that work globally,” rose, sandalwood, patchouli, lavender a creative and a commercial Guichard and Olivier Cresp she noted. “Having this increasingly and citrus essential oils. concept is a delicate exer- as a 25-year-old, when she international vision also allowed us to The other key to success is a will- cise for Puig’s three in-house was training in places such as pick up much more on trends in the ingness to take risks. She cited the ex- perfumers, who must work in Geneva and Grasse. gourmand category.” ample of Paco Rabanne’s best-selling what Vidal described as a “cre- Vidal believes those notes, which men’s fragrance 1 Million, an oriental ative triangle” with marketing burst onto the perfumery with a blond leather base. teams and external perfumers. landscape with the “It was not obvious to use a note Besides Vidal, there is 1992 launch of Thierry like that, which ended up being a huge Gregorio Sola, who is in charge Mugler’s Angel, still commercial hit, so you must always of beauty brands including have a thriving future. take certain risks, otherwise you never Shakira, Antonio Banderas, “Perfume evolves innovate,” she said. Mango and Benetton, and much more slowly than “The main thing is to seek addic- Camilla Latron, who works fashion,” she said. tion. That’s it. Yo u have to find how with both Vidal and Sola. Four “We are working out to create that addiction. And it can evaluators and a laboratory op- how we could interpret be through gourmand notes, it can be erator round out the Perfumery gourmand notes in a dif- through very narcotic notes like oud, Center team, spread between ferent way. There are incense or myrrh,” Vidal added. Barcelona and Paris. some interesting notes to be “I think that is essentially what you Once the marketing team Paco Rabanne’s best-selling 1 Million fragrance, explored on the saltier side,” have to look for, but it’s not easy. Perfume has defined a concept, it goes Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada’s Beso perfume and she added, citing the example evolves very gradually and you have to to outside partners in a con- Nina Ricci’s classic scent, L’Air du Temps. of hazelnut and coffee. approach the future step-by-step.”

of the brand.” In a recent study of 100 French women age 18 to Every Picture Tells a Story 25, Rochet-Podvin and her col- leagues found that many of them Puig marketing spins tales to seduce consumers. By Cynthia Martens were fans of Nina Ricci, which she attributed partly to Ricci’s FROM SAILORS TO athletes 1 Million is the extension told in a Milan-based luxury brand- on-target fragrance campaigns. to princesses, Puig fragrance the modern vernacular. When I ing and advertising agency, said Rochet-Podvin also praised ads feature an impressive think of Paco Rabanne, the first Puig’s strong music selection the men’s Paco Rabanne lineup of characters. For thing I think of is gold. The pack- and respect for the core identi- Invictus campaign, shot by di- years, the firm has poured its aging hits all the touch-points of ties of each brand in its portfolio rector Alexandre Courtès in creative energy into carefully the brand — the bottle is sexy, set it apart from the competition. 2013, as a clever combination constructed, fantasy-filled solid, shiny,” he said. “That’s not a given in fra- of “mythology and modernity” commercials that each tell the Puig’s talent for storytell- grance advertising: often, the that encouraged viewers to story of a specific brand. ing has allowed it to go beyond focus is just on creating a mood, connect athletes with ancient Charles DeCaro, co-owner relying on big-name celebrities without a real meaning,” he said. conquerors. “ Yo u may like it and creative director of the to carry campaigns forward, “[Puig] fragrance ads are all or not, but it doesn’t leave you Laspata DeCaro creative mar- DeCaro added. “If you hire a mini-tales, a bit surreal, but that indifferent,” she said. keting agency in New York, said model du jour, sometimes that give you the chance to think.” Vincent Bastien, a profes- Puig excels at creating unified works and sometimes it falls flat Del Fabbro added the com- Paco Rabanne’s Invictus campaign. sor of marketing in the luxury narratives, which in turn give — eventually it wears thin, be- mercials had a “classy” vibe, sector at Paris’ HEC School of their products greater cred- cause it’s so ubiquitous,” he said. and cited Valentino’s Valentina “Puig is able to put the Management and a former ceo ibility with consumers. Prada’s Lele Del Fabbro, founder fragrance campaign, shot in whole package together,” of Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Luna Rossa fragrance campaign, and creative director of LDF, Rome, as an example: in the film agreed Leïla Rochet-Podvin, Laurent Parfum and Lancel, for instance, explicitly refers to by Johan Renck, model Freja founder and chief executive of- said large-scale distribution the fashion house’s Luna Rossa Beha Erichsen plays Valentina, ficer of Cosmetics Inspiration had fundamentally changed Challenge sailing team, connect- a rebellious young beauty who & Creation, a Paris-based mar- the perfumery sector over the ing the perfume to real athletes. sneaks out of a party at her fam- keting agency. “Each brand has past few decades, making it “It gives more validity to ily’s ornate palazzo and enjoys a its story, its heritage, and with less selective. While he agreed what the visual narrative is. night on the town with friends. Puig there is always a signa- storytelling was important — That’s what resonates with con- “It’s much easier to get ture and very strong coherence “advertising is not just about sumers, when they feel that people’s attention instantly that extends to the fragrance selling, it’s about making peo- there’s a genuine connection on if you feature a nearly naked bottles. Today, consumers need ple dream” — he stressed the multiple levels and [the compa- woman. But if instead you say, to be drawn into a [brand’s] importance of having a quality ny is] not just selling a fragrance ‘Let’s dress her — Who is she? universe and it has to trigger scent to begin with. in and of itself,” DeCaro said. What is she all about? Who is their desire.…All the pieces “ Yo u don’t buy a perfume

He also pointed to Puig’s Valentina?’ it’s more interest- have to fit together.” for the story — the product ude blockbuster Paco Rabanne ing,” Del Fabbro said. She said the Nina by Nina is paramount,” Bastien said, o 1 Million scent, launched in The original Prada Candy ad Ricci campaign, with its “La adding he perceived a certain 2008, featuring a bottle de- was also a standout, he added, tentation de Nina” film, was “Catalan playfulness” and

signed to resemble a solid gold noting the attention to detail particularly powerful: feminine whimsy in Puig’s campaigns. G Jean-Paul ingot, as a convincing repre- extended to a visual similarity and romantic, it made fairy- “[Puig is] fun, and very cre-

sentation of the fashion brand. between actress Léa Seydoux’s tale references with its bright, ative,” but the firm’s ultimate hoto by P “ Yo u think of the Sixties, A Prada Candy ad featuring blonde fringe and the shape of apple-shaped bottle, but also strength lies in convincingly these exquisite metal dresses — Léa Seydoux. the perfume bottle’s cap. offered “a modern experience “tying the scents to the stories.” Candy Prada

w11b008a;8.indd 8 7/10/14 2:39 PM 07102014144051

10 WWD friday, july 11, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

wwdmilestones According to market sources, loss- Ralph Toledano es at Ricci were considerable when Copping arrived from Louis Vuitton’s design studio. The house had endured a revolving door of designers. Toledano only hinted at past chal- lenges and concluded, “We are putting in place proper ammunition to go to the next level, but it’s a work in progress.” Sparking Gaultier’s business has been a challenge. Last year, it was on the cusp of introducing a new contem- porary and streetwear-driven line with Ittierre SpA when the Italian manufac- turer ran into financial difficulties, scut- tling what had been a promising new version of the French designer’s once- blockbuster Gaultier Jeans franchise. Toledano said the first Gaultier 2 collection received positive feedback from buyers, proving that the house was able to deliver the right concept for the market. “It was a real demon- stration of taking the essence of Jean Paul and translating it for today. There is an excellent team at Gaultier. Such a commitment, such a team spirit — and they have a fantastic leader in Jean Paul. He hates when I say it, but for me, DOMINIQUE MAîTRE he’s a living legend. For me, working with him is a privilege.”

PHOTO BY Toledano noted that he recently ap- pointed a general manager at Gaultier, company veteran Sophie Weintraub. She succeeded Christine Chapellu, who had joined Gaultier from French retailer Le Bon Marché a year ago, but recently exited for personal reasons. The Fashion Captain Meanwhile, the house projects that more than two million people will see Ralph Toledano is charged with energizing Puig’s fashion sector. By Miles Socha the globe-trotting retrospective, “The

Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: WHEN PUIG ACQUIRED a majority A pensive executive known for his Toledano said a deep reflection with- From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk,” stake in Jean Paul Gaultier in 2011, it strong product sensibilities and finan- in each brand is needed to unlock its full which originated in Montreal in 2011, was the latest signal that the Spanish cial acumen, Toledano is reticent to potential: “The first piece of the puzzle is currently on at the Barbican in firm was serious about owning brands, discuss specific targets, preferring to is, ‘Who do I want to be? What does my London and, come April 2015, is head- not only licensing them to sell fra- wait for achievements to arrive rather brand mean? What are my brand fea- ing to the Grand Palais in Paris for

grances, but about becoming a more than trumpet them in advance. tures? Where do I want to take it?’ four months. formidable player in the fashion world. “Trees don’t grow to the sky, but “ Yo u can have the most talented Toledano stopped short of saying A year later, Puig brought in indus- they can approach the sky. Yo u always designer, but if he doesn’t have a clear the exposure has been a major factor try veteran Ralph Toledano to head have to think very big, but never say brief, if there is not a clear understand- in boosting fashion sales, but “it just up its fashion division, sending up an- it,” he mused. “The only thing I know is ing between you and him, where you are shows how important, how influential, Jean Paul is — not only for the fashion other flare about its ambitions, given that we can only do better, and I would and where you ’’ want to go, you cannot the Frenchman’s love to do better, do it,” he said. “That’s the work we have crowd, but for the general public.” track record build- much, much better.” been doing. We have made progress, and While the scale of Puig’s fashion ing such houses as Pressed for some hopefully time will show that it’s mean- businesses could seem like a handicap Karl Lagerfeld, Guy timelines, he said, ingful, and each brand is absolutely dif- amid Europe’s giant luxury conglomer- Laroche and Chloé. “In this industry, you ferent. Each one needs to find its way; ates, Toledano views it as an opportu- In his first major start seeing the light each one needs to find its own identity.” nity, for smaller players to “give more interview since taking after five years.” Puig’s mission is to build brands, room to creativity than a large corpo- on the role, Toledano Toledano, who is shape them and translate their image ration or megabrand, where creativity recalled that during head of the Chambre in the world of fragrance, Toledano has to be more disciplined.” his initial meetings Syndicale du Prêt-à- said, stressing that a vital fashion Ditto for managers, who can be of- with Marc and Manuel Porter des Couturiers house is an integral part of the picture. fered “the possibility to be a real en- Puig, the family-con- et des Créateurs de “When you look at the leaders of fra- trepreneur, not work vertically on trolled firm’s chair- Mode, was elected the grance, you very often find the leaders some huge chain of command.” man and vice chair- new president of the of fashion, and you see nearly every Toledano noted fashion, fragrance man, respectively, Fédération Française season a fragrance brand that had given and other luxury purveyors in France “they mentioned that de la Couture, du Prêt- one day they would like fashion to rep- à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs resent more than 50 percent of the busi- de Mode, succeeding Didier Grumbach, ness, and I think that’s a nice target. It and will take the reins on Sept. 1. He Trees don’t grow to the sky, but they will take time, because it doesn’t happen was interviewed in his office at Ricci overnight. But that’s the ambition.” headquarters on the corner of Avenue can approach the sky. You always have He declined to say what share of Montaigne and Rue François 1er, af- Puig’s $1.99 billion in revenues cur- fording him a view of a luxury strip to think very big, but never say it. rently derive from fashion houses Nina that counts such storied tenants as Dior, Ricci, Carolina Herrera, Paco Rabanne Chanel and Saint Laurent. — Ralph Toledano, pUIG and Gaultier, but intimated that con- He has assumed the management siderable work needs to be done to lift helm at Ricci and is conducting an exten- these names into the big leagues. sive review of its internal organization up fashion coming back to it, so there have made huge advances in recent “We have to be clear, we don’t have a and processes. The initiative should be must be a reason,” he explained. years, becoming more effective, pro- winner yet,” he said. “We have brands finished by year end and could ultimately Toledano cited “very positive mo- fessional and organized — to the point that are doing better, but when I look at benefit other divisions in the group. mentum” at Carolina Herrera, which that they rival other sources of nation- a magazine and I see a ranking of the “We are looking at every single de- Puig acquired in 1995, and which is al pride, including the aerospace and 10 best collections, we do not often have partment and asking, what do you need currently its largest fashion concern. high-speed train sectors. a brand there, and we need to have a to perform better?” he said, noting the “In the past four years, Carolina “Personally, I think that luxury — brand there — as simple as that.” Ricci process started about eight months Herrera has made tremendous prog- fashion and accessories, fine wines Believing that success elicits suc- ago, analyzing the supply chain from de- ress,” he said, praising the leadership and liquors, fragrances, high-end craft, cess — what he called a “virtuous cir- sign studio to shipping department. of chief executive officer Caroline tourism and, more generally, the art of cle” — Toledano explained that “it’s Toledano has made two key hires Brown. “She has really created a very living — is the treasure of France. In very important we have a winner, as at Ricci, building teams around Peter positive atmosphere. It’s a company the last two decades, it has impacted this will gain us credibility and pres- Copping, its creative director since 2009. that has worked very carefully, but pos- very favorably the French economy in ence. So once we have the first, then They are Sophie Templier, accessories itively in terms of product assortment, terms of job creation and’’ international we’ll have the second and the third, director, and Iliana Giannakouris, chief in terms of international expansion, in trade, but a tremendous potential still and I think that’s quite critical.” ready-to-wear designer under Copping. terms of digital.” exists in these areas.”

w11b010a;11.indd 10 7/10/14 2:56 PM 07102014145753 To all of our friends at Puig, we congratulate you on all you have achieved in 100 years as a family business. Best wishes for another century inspired by passion and creativity.

www.givaudan.com 12 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDMILESTONES

cause everything else is moving for- ward,” she added. “We have great teams and our teams Herrera’s Elegant World are really focused on doing this all the time. So our eyes are open to every part of the business,” Brown said. “Every Building a multidimensional house. By Rosemary Feitelberg business has complexities. I am con- vinced that there is no business that HAVING FIRST LINKED up with Puig you look at from the outside and say, in the late Eighties, Carolina Herrera Caroline Brown and ‘It’s easy.’ They all require a lot of dis- knew from the start that their compa- Carolina Herrera cipline, a lot of focus and great people nies were simpatico. behind it on all levels who are driven “When I first met the Puig family, I by the same passion and along the same knew immediately that I was working path for the company’s success.” with gentlemen,” Herrera said. “They As for whether the company is think in the same way that I do. They concerned about speculation that like to do everything in a very elegant Europe’s economic recovery may not way. After all these years, they have be imminent, Brown said, “As a glob- been an incredible partner.” al business, there is always volatility After starting her company in 1981, in one part of your business or many. Venezuelan-born Herrera worked with Economics are a concern in general Puig in 1988 developing a signature throughout the world, Europe isn’t the fragrance. In 1995, Herrera’s fashion only one. We look at many other re- house was acquired by Puig. Asked if gions. We’re fortunate to have a global she imagined the partnership would business so that when you have chal- become such a long-standing one, the lenges somewhere, you hope that other designer said, “I did, because when parts are able to compensate for that.” you work with such gentlemen and This spring, Giuseppe Celio joined such honorable people, you do it for a Carolina Herrera as chief operating long time. First I was working with the officer to bolster its infrastructure and ‘Old Guard’ from Puig and now it is the continue to build the business. New Guard. But nothing has changed. Fall “One of the most important things “One of the things that I like about for a company is the culture. For us, them is that they really listen, espe- one of the top priorities is that we have cially Marc [Puig, chief executive of- a positive mood that is encouraging ficer]. But a lot of listening is needed of collaboration, encouraging of inte- from both sides. When you have a good gration between all areas of the busi- thing with people, you always want ness and also accepting of risk-taking, to make it a great success,” she said. whether it’s positive or negative,” “Puig is like my other family.” Brown said. “We pride ourselves as While Puig was instrumental in help- a company in having a great environ- ing Herrera open her first signature ment and a culture that is conducive store on Madison Avenue and expand to productivity. It stems from Mrs. her CH Carolina Herrera label, both Herrera herself, who is not about a lot parties are always planning for what’s of drama. It’s a very civilized environ- next. Gearing up for her runway show in ment but we’re a very close team.” September, a yet-to-be-disclosed major Staffers often quote one of Herrera’s international project and unveiling new The CH Carolina Herrera concept store. favorite sayings — essentially that she CH Carolina Herrera stores including didn’t start the company to change the one in Osaka late next month, Herrera Instagram before the launch and there how those affiliations affected traffic on world — she just started it to make said, “Fashion never ends. We have so was also a microsite with an e-commerce the company’s Web site. “We’re very ac- women feel more beautiful, Brown said. many, many, many plans.” component via Neiman Marcus. tive on social media and we have jumps “It’s something that we refer to a lot. The company declined to give a Beyond the social media buzz, all the time. We really leave that decision That’s why we’re here to make women current volume, but it is estimated at Herrera was intent on offering designs up to the bride. There is always interest look and feel more beautiful and confi- more than $1 billion, including whole- that had not been seen for spring. [in] something beautiful. I wouldn’t say dent and to feel better about themselves.” sale and retail. Caroline Brown, president of Herrera, it’s a strategy in our social media to push That said, the designer remains Another initiative that is performing said, “If you look at Archive as a market- people’s private moments.” the quintessential ambassador for her well is what Herrera executives refer ing exercise, it is indicative of some of Herrera praised Brown for her label. “We’re superactive with events. to as effortless, luxurious daywear. The the projects we are looking at. We really leadership in growing the company’s Maybe too much sometimes because it designer said, “It is classic and clean take a full 360-degree approach to make sales. The designer said, “I have a can be exhausting. We have events all with a modern twist. It works well any- sure it is timed perfectly for the right de- great team behind me — my design the time, whether it’s in our office, in where and that’s the challenge when livery, for the customer, with the media team, my sales team — everyone comes our stores, with our retail partners.… you have to design clothes for the glob- and the digital component, really touch- together. It’s not you alone.” It’s good to get women into the store al women of today. They have to look ing people in the many ways you can Carolina Herrera New York is avail- to expose them to the store, the brand good everywhere they go.” today with one consistent message. able in 123 points of distribution, includ- and Mrs. Herrera herself,” Brown said. During her extensive travels, “Customers really want to be part of ing three signature boutiques in 40-plus And the designer’s alliance with Herrera said she enjoys seeing her de- a brand,” she added. “They don’t want countries. CH Carolina Herrera, which Puig only gets stronger with time. signs worn by globe-trotting women in to look at it from afar. They want to see has 122 retail stores and 219 owned Brown noted, “One of the great things different cities. “For me, elegance is the inside of the house. They want to shops-in-shop globally, is another growth about Puig as a partner is that they timeless,” she said. “They have to look communicate. They want to hear the opportunity. It is building on its distri- support 100 percent when the compa- effortless and the clothes must look direct comments and they want to feel bution in Japan, China, Southeast Asia nies need support and they also know easy to wear and as though they belong they know a piece of the personality of and Korea, as well as in the U.S. Latin when it’s the right time to let the brand to them. I love daytime because it is for the house and of the designer.” America is also a priority, where CH take the lead in projects.” our everyday life. Evening is very im- True to Herrera’s discreet style, the Carolina Herrera has 34 stores. “So we’re There are 15 core fragrances under portant, but you wear it once in a while.” company is not about to exploit its ties really looking globally at the business and the Carolina Herrera, CH and 212 In April, the designer introduced to high-profile brides. The designer re- not at one specific business,” Brown said. Carolina Herrera brands, distributed Archive II, a capsule collection of wear- cently dressed Jessica Simpson and “We are always challenging the existing in 105 countries. now daytime pieces featuring cheerful Olivia Palermo for their respective wed- product matrix to say, ‘What can be en- Brown said of Puig, “The fragrance GIANNONI GIOVANNI prints from her archive. Teaser campaign dings, but hardly shared any details with hanced?’ and ‘How can we do it better?’” business is a huge success for this com- photos triggered favorable chatter on the media. Brown declined to pinpoint To that end, greater development, for pany. It is an area that is always looking example, of categories like outerwear is for newness and pushing for newness in BY RUNWAY The signature fragrance. being considered. Accessories includ- that area of the business as well. When ing eyewear, which is “off to a fantastic you have a partner that has a big busi- start,” and daywear, “a real focus in the ness, you have flexibility to take risks last few years,” are growth opportuni- that you may have had to wait many ties. There are plans for the launch of a years to if you had been without [that capsule collection of men’s eyewear at support]. Every step you take is risk — the end of this year. Brown continued, opening new stores, expanding interna- “We are always asking, ‘Are we where we tionally, starting a lifestyle collection, want to be?’ ‘What do we have to keep investing in the fragrance business. It’s our eye on next?’ It is really important not just money, it’s also expertise, inter- for companies to keep their eyes on national knowledge, all of those resourc- where the next opportunity is. es, human resources, talent, knowledge “If you’re not moving forward in — all of those things in the last 30 years fashion, you’re going backwards, be- have been very critical to this company.” OF CAROLINA HERRERA; PHOTO COURTESY BROWN AND HERRERA INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS & FRAGRANCES CONGRATULATES PUIG FOR 100 YEARS O F SUCCESS BUILT ON LEGACY AND DRIVEN BY INNOVATION

International Flavors & Fragrances Inc.

Photographer: Kenji Toma / Cartel & Co. ©2014 International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. All rights reserved. 14 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDMILESTONES Maintaining the Feminine Touch Peter Copping keeps Nina Ricci’s design aesthetic true to the house’s roots. By Miles Socha

ATTENDING PUIG’S anniver- has managed to convey a clear Copping acknowledged the sary festivities in Barcelona last sense of itself over the last few company went “too fast” on April, Nina Ricci designer Peter years,” said Linda Fargo, senior shoes, designing ranges that Copping marveled at the num- vice president of the fashion of- were too extensive and in the ber of people willing to take fice and store presentation at “something for everyone” vein a microphone and talk about Bergdorf ’s. “At this point, the rather than “establishing what their affection for the Spanish brand can be counted on for is a Nina Ricci shoe and what beauty and fashion firm. ultimately feminine looks, and is the customer looking for.” “It’s incredible the amount for balancing the idea of pretty A revamping of teams in of goodwill there is for that with modern. There’s some- handbags, and a sharp focus group,” he recalled. thing a bit nonchalant and un- on making “proper leath- Yo u could say the same for fussy, yet flirty and coquettish, er goods” has yielded the Copping, who has cultivated his about the Nina Ricci woman. Marché, a day bag with han- own admirers after five years helming Ricci and waving the flag for unabashed femininity. “We’ve achieved a lot in de- fining what the brand stands for, both internally and externally,” he said in an interview. “We have managed to establish a vocabulary for what can be day- Looks from Nina Ricci’s wear for Nina Ricci.” fall runway and backstage. Copping said he pretty much “started fresh” when he ar-

rived at Ricci in 2009 from Louis Vuitton, eager to bring stability to a brand that had seen five design- ers come and go in the decade before him (Nathalie Gervais, Massimo Giussani, James

Aguiar, Lars Nilsson and Olivier Theyskens), and one that became known primarily for long dresses and special occasion wear. While acknowledging that Puig has big ambitions for Ricci, which it acquired in ’’ 1998, “they’re just doing it step-by-step, they’re not rush- ing things,” Copping said. The soft-spoken Englishman confesses to some frustrations dealing with “restricted bud- gets,” especially in compari- son with Vuitton, where he STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE was women’s studio director and where the embroidery

budget alone could practi- PHOTO BY cally eclipse his for the entire Ricci collection.

“The fact is you sometimes GIANNONI don’t get your voice heard be- There’s a place for smaller houses cause there’s a lot of compa- nies out there shouting,” he at the top; I think people are looking GIOVANNI said. “ Yo u can’t wait too long BY because there’s a possibility of for alternatives to the bigger brands. missing the moment.” Copping said it’s heartening — PETER COPPING, NINA RICCI that magazines have chosen to PHOTOS RUNWAY feature Ricci clothes prominent- ly, although the fashion house There’s always a place in the dles incorporated into the ing modesty that belies a firm malist clothes stole a lot of does not advertise, and that ce- market for this kind of expres- body of the bag and cinched commitment in the aesthetic thunder in recent years. lebrities have donned his soigné sion, and we’re grateful for the with delicate hardware. It’s he mines. “I think you just have to dresses without being paid a big recent consistency.” gaining traction commercial- And he views Ricci’s di- know what you stand for and endorsement contract. Copping has received more ly and exemplifies a style co- minutive scale as something not get distracted,” he said, “It comes from people ap- funds to invest in the studio herent with Ricci’s ready-to- of an advantage. wondering why so many preciating what we do. That’s and recruit more senior talent, wear aesthetic. “There’s a place for small- brands have “their version of really rewarding,” he said. “As and a more powerful logistics Ye t Copping is convinced er houses at the top; I think that bag that’s working at the sales improve and accessories system to aid the product de- the brand’s soft, sensual spirit people are looking for alter- moment. I just don’t get why start to work more, that’ll give velopment teams. can speak to a large audience. natives to the bigger brands,” people do that.” us more funds to do more.” In concert with Ralph “It’s a house ’’where we can he said, noting that the trend Copping said he feels at He noted several key re- Toledano, president of the do great, appealing products is taking root in China, where home at Ricci, and there’s no tailers, including Bergdorf Puig fashion division, Copping for women,” he said. “And from luxury consumers are hungry compulsion to be distracted by Goodman and Barneys New decided to “pull back” from my experience, a feminine sen- for “something that feels a little fashion’s mood swings. York, recently decided to fast- footwear and concentrate on sibility does tend to appeal to more confidential.” “It’s a good fit,” he said. track the collection. handbags first. quite a lot of women.” Likewise, Copping has kept “The aesthetic that I’ve de- “Although there have been Despite Puig’s and Ricci’s The designer delivers such Ricci rooted in its feminine fined at Ricci is pretty close to some fits and starts, Nina Ricci usual step-by-step approach, statements with a disarm- universe, even as severe, mini- my own.”

16 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDMILESTONES Still At It Jean Paul Gaultier is as effervescent as ever. By Miles Socha DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE Jean Paul Gaultier PHOTO BY

EBULLIENCE PERSONIFIED, Jean Paul Gaultier WWD: Yo u relinquished the title which creates this impression of perfume for your first scent and bounds down the runway at the end of each show. He of president when Puig invested virtual, fake reality. it doesn’t work? What do you do eats with gusto. He talks up a storm. in the company. Did you like There are some reality after, men or women?” She said And he doesn’t wince at being called an “enfant wearing that hat, too? programs dedicated to people it’s better to start with women, so terrible” at age 62, because he’s still one of French Jean Paul Gaultier: Yo u can who show the most ridiculous, that’s what we did. fashion’s consummate showmen and occasional agitators. imagine, I didn’t feel good in disgusting aspects of their Of course, two years after that, Asked how he feels about the return of conservative that job at all. Did I feel like the lives. But sometimes it’s quite CK One arrived on the market. fashions, a fact Miuccia Prada declared during the president? I’m not sure. Did I hilarious. There’s one program (He growls for dramatic effect.) spring men’s shows, the Frenchman takes a deep breath, have the capacity? I am not sure. in France that has episodes tucks in his chin and declares, with the timing and I couldn’t be in charge creatively with subjects like, “My husband WWD: Can you give an example of delivery of a comedian, “It’s not exactly my cup of tea.” and also be in the position to prefers Johnny Hallyday to me.” similar prescience in fashion? And then he unleashes one of his uproarious laughs. push things strategically. In J.P.G.: When I did the tattoo It reverberates through the company’s compact private these matters, I am not the best WWD: Yo u received some collection in 1991, they were lunchroom, where Gaultier dined on beet carpaccio person to be a boss. Now I have criticism for casting French not so popular, but I truly felt and roast chicken and reflected on his career and his complete freedom to focus on my reality TV star Nabilla Benattia it was the right thing to do at fashion house’s latest chapter, following its majority collections, and this is what I love. — often described as the French that moment. I went to a tattoo acquisition by Puig in 2011. (The Spanish firm bought Kim Kardashian — in your fall convention near London and the 45 percent of Gaultier held by Hermès WWD: Are you still in a mood to 2013 couture show. maybe 300 people came over International and roughly 15 percent from provoke with your fashions? J.P.G.: Yes, this is part of my two days. I was fascinated, and the founding couturier.) J.P.G.: I never was in the mood to enfant terrible side, reacting to I found some people to cast in The designer trumpeted a strong provoke. I was raised to be a very injustice because I find her very my show. There was a guy with rapport with vice chairman Manuel Puig, nice, cute boy. (Laughs.) clever and quite beautiful and an enormous Madonna tattoo — with whom he enjoys a lively “Ping-Pong” Seriously, I don’t with an exotic look — something just like the cover of her “True exchange of ideas. provoke for the sake of I’ve always celebrated. In Blue” album, with her head Having attended Puig’s 100th anniversary provocation, but I do one episode of her show, she cocked back. It was fantastic. celebrations last April, he marveled that react when I sense actually met Kim Kardashian After I did that collection, the event — a slick affair featuring that there is injustice and when I saw that Nabilla is all the girls — Naomi Campbell, video clips and speeches by the likes somewhere. taller than Kim, I decided she Christy Turlington — wanted to of Antonio Banderas, who has a could be a model in my show. get tattoos and piercings. signature fragrance with the group — WWD: And where do you In her time, Brigitte Bardot was void of paparazzi. “I think that’s see injustice today? was the victim of the same kind WWD: You’ve been stung with very elegant, no?” he asked. J.P.G.: I’m afraid that of accusations and stereotyping, some bad reviews over the His first brush with Puig was some of the freedoms that that she was somehow not years. Are you sensitive to actually via his nose: Gaultier was were won and celebrated in intelligent because of her looks fashion criticism? an admirer of Paco Rabanne’s the Seventies and Eighties and the way she spoke. In reality J.P.G.: When I get a good review, fragrances from Rabanne’s first hit, are eroding. Look at she was very well educated and I love it. (Laughs) Bad reviews Calandre, created in 1969 by the all the controversy cultured, very bourgeois. can affect me also, but it doesn’t Barcelona-based firm. today around abortion, affect me to the point that I stop Revenues at Gaultier, derived euthanasia and even WWD: Do ideas for perfumes making collections. mostly from licensing royalties, are sexuality. It’s truly like come to you easily? estimated at about 25 million euros, superconservative. J.P.G.: I don’t know if it comes easily. WWD: Everyone knows the or $34 million at current exchange. Strangely, we are more But I have an antenna inside 1945 film “Falbalas,” set in the It is understood fragrances accustomed to seeing me that I’m not always aware of. fashion world, inspired you to represent more than 80 percent of extreme violence, which I Sometimes an idea can come very become a designer. Is the show the business, if one considers the find harder to watch than, quickly, like with my first perfume. still the main event for you? wholesale value of all products. say, penetration. (Laughs). I knew that I wanted something J.P.G.: For me, fashion was always While the fashion house, Spring sweet and vanilla, like something about the show. When I started WWD: established in 1982, has seen its 2014 What inspires you you would want to eat. working with Pierre Cardin, he share of turbulence — including couture. more: High or low culture? At the beginning of my career, I was presenting his collections a dramatic restructuring to avoid J.P.G.: More low than wanted to make a perfume for men with music by Pierre Henry bankruptcy and a revolving door of high! I can’t resist those trashy and women. We had a meeting and he would narrate on his managers — Gaultier remains a glass- programs that are everywhere. with L’Oréal and they didn’t get it. microphone: “And this outfit is gurgling-over type. And then I met Chantal Roos at for a woman going to the moon.” In a wide-ranging conversation, the WWD: Are you talking about BPI, and I explained to her how (He imitates Cardin.) designer talked about the allure of low reality TV? I saw everything as unisex. She It was incredible. Yo u know I culture, the reality of reality T V, and what J.P.G.: It used to be reality T V. told me something very clever. She love that. It’s a pleasure and it’s women should wear to the moon. Now it’s mostly directed reality, asked me: “What if you do a unisex something joyful. 100 years of Passion

Symrise salutes Puig

for one century of truly sensational creations and a valued inspirational partnership.

Our best wishes for years to come! 18 WWD FRIDAY, JULY 11, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDMILESTONES

Rabanne’s second-to-last de- and newness.…So that’s a play- Paco Rabanne’s signer, Manish Arora, whose ground that’s super inspiring fall runway. brash, sci-fi designs were em- and really unique,” he enthused. braced with gusto by Lady A compact dynamo of a de- Gaga, but failed to ignite a rtw signer with a thick shock of business. Rosemary Rodriguez, boyish hair, Dossena said he’s an acolyte of the founder; not yet visited the archive, American designer Patrick preferring to “pick what I find Robinson, and an internal can- interesting and relevant for didate, Lydia Maurer, have also now” and project these ele- taken cracks at interpreting the ments in a conceptual way. brand over the last decade. For example, he decided Even though Rabanne to work sparingly with metal spent more than three de- mesh and instead incorpo- cades as a couturier, he never rate subtle flashes of metallic, created the designer rtw line pointing to the silvery leather bearing his name, which was pieced into the cotton piqué launched in 1990 and designed top worn by Duranteau-Loeper. by a variety of designers under Nowadays, Paco Rabanne is his supervision, including for- better known for fragrances in- mer Balmain creative director cluding men’s scents Invictus Christophe Decarnin. and 1 Million, plus the Black While Dossena was born XS range. Bridging the gulf two decades after Rabanne’s between a massive fragrance heyday, he said the fashion franchise and a nascent fash- house casts a long shadow still, ion business is a challenge especially in France, where it Dossena is ready to tackle. is emblematic of the social “They totally trust us on the upheavals of the Sixties that fashion identity,” he enthused, broke bourgeois fashion codes. noting he and Duranteau- GIANNONI GIOVANNI “Paris is really about super- Loeper report to Rabanne exec- classic couture,” said Dossena, utive Vincent Thilloy and Puig

PHOTOS BY “and then there are three names chief brand officer José Manuel

Julien Dossena and

The Paco Project Anouck Duranteau-Loeper

Designer Julien Dossena and manager Anouck Duranteau-Loeper

have set about transforming a classic house. By Miles Socha

PACO RABANNE’S latest re- maker of special occasion The resort offering includes boot is shaping up as a slow fashions, a claim to fame dat- mix-and-match pieces designed and steady build, not a flash ing back to the founder’s debut to complement the more elabo- in the pan. of “12 Unwearable’’ Dresses,” rate looks Dossena paraded in Earlier this year, Julien many of them cobbled from his first two shows. Consisting Dossena, tapped in August 2013 metal and plastic. of around 60 items, the resort as creative director for women’s From Dossena’s runway collection will retail for about wear, withdrew himself from debut last September, he has a third less than the main the inaugural LVMH Young accentuated daywear, parad- line, with prices ranging from Fashion Designer Prize compe- ing tops, pants, flat shoes and 270 euros, or $368 at current tition, foregoing the chance to jackets with a modernist sheen exchange, for a T-shirt featur- win 300,000 euros, or $409,000, and an athletic undercurrent. ing a vintage Seventies logo to and suspended his nascent “When we arrived here, the about 2,500 euros, or $3,400, for brand Atto in order to concen- business was based on eve- aluminum mesh pieces like a trate fully on the Paco project. ning dresses and exceptional wrap-over top or miniskirt. “I thought that it was Accessories comprise the best way to work, to three shoe styles, in- develop the team and cluding a flat sandal and to be 150 percent on the It’s a luxury fashion Chelsea boots with a rect- collections,” said the angular heel, and four 31-year-old Frenchman, a house, really established handbags, of which three graduate of La Cambre in are new — a tote, bucket Brussels who cut his teeth bag and mini clutch — all in the Balenciaga studio, and Parisian, but it with the brand’s signa- working closely with then- ture metal accents. creative director Nicolas has that legacy of Duranteau-Loeper Ghesquière. “I didn’t want noted the brand would to be average on the two, daring and newness. take its time with ac- but [rather] good on one.” cessories, preferring STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE The Puig-owned — JULIEN DOSSENA, to build a “significant house also poached a PACO RABANNE ready-to-wear business” hidden management tal- before branching out into PHOTO BY ent from Céline, Anouck other categories, with Duranteau-Loeper, as fashion items. Right away, I thought to eyewear seen as a likely exten- who bring those values of mo- Albesa. “So they really give general manager to partner with myself that if we wanted Paco sion three or four years out. dernity: Courrèges, [Pierre] us, as we say in French, carte Dossena on the business side Rabanne to live on as a brand About 40 specialty stores Cardin and Paco Rabanne. So it blanche, to make the brand rel- and carve out a niche for a fash- with a very modern and very carry Dossena’s debut has a unique place in the land- evant in fashion. As I told them, ion name rooted in the Space young energy, we had to start Rabanne collections, includ- scape. It’s a supermodern brand, the business of the perfume Age Sixties and revived from five by developing a classic day ing Dover Street Market in it can be innovative and at the is gigantic, so we need time to years of dormancy in 2011. wardrobe,” he explained. London and New York, The same time young and effortless. grow and make [the fashion In their first joint interview, Building its assortments, Webster Miami, Jeffrey in New It really fits this kind of space on business] really relevant — and the duo described a step-by- the brand presented its first York, Joseph in London and the market.” when we are going to be strong step plan to ready the brand for resort collection to buyers Space Mue in South Korea. Dossena also lauded the enough, we are going to link.” the opening of a Paris boutique in Paris this month. ’’“It was Duranteau-Loeper said the founder as a designer who Duranteau-Loeper said it in 2015, marking a return to re- an important prerequisite next step is to layer on depart- “was speaking to his genera- would probably not be before tail more than a decade after to develop the business, es- ment stores, and expand the tion,” innovating with fabrics 2018 or 2019 when the fashion closing its historic location on pecially with department brand’s geographic reach, par- and exalting an active life. and fragrance universes would the Rue du Cherche-Midi. stores, which need a regu- ticularly into fast-growing Asia. “It’s a luxury fashion house, begin collaborating. Job one was to pry Rabanne lar turnover on their racks,” The methodical strategy really established and Parisian, — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS from its pigeon hole as a said Dossena. seems a world away from but it has that legacy of daring FROM JOELLE DIDERICH congratulations marc PUIG & the PUIG famIly on 100 amazing years

as a driving force behind many iconic brands, you’ve left a lasting impression on our industry. cheers to 100 more years of success!