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ALAMANCE Living

FRENCH FINESSE: EXECUTES DETAIL, PRECISION IN DISHES SOMETHING TO LAUGH ABOUT: JEANNE ROBERTSON DELIVERS CLEAN COMEDY

Volume 6 • Issue 6 • September 2018

1 ALAMANCE LIVING | JUNE 2017 CULTURE

Saint Jacques at Burke Manor is owned by Lil & Lori Lacassagne, who used to run a nationally known in Raleigh. In addition to the restaurant, they handle weddings, special occasions, classes and guided trips to . TRULY

FRENCHSAINT JACQUES AT BURKE MANOR INN BRINGS FRANCE TO ALAMANCE COUNTY

Story by Rich Jackson Photos by Steven Mantilla

n a Victorian building in Gibsonville just off the city square, you’ll find France. Not a hint. Not just a taste of the country that I created . And not just an ill attempt at a fake French restaurant like you can find many places.

At Saint Jacques at Burke Manor Inn in Gibsonville, away the food all at the same time. you’ll find what makes French food truly French. But back to the start. It is the attention to detail, such as the grated lemon Dinner starts with a chef’s choice amuse-bouche, zest in the amuse-bouche. It is the skill set, that makes literally “amuse the mouth.” sure the are cut perfectly. It is the best of We had each ordered a Royale, a classic French ingredients, such as the salmon, pink and responsive to drink named after the post-World War II mayor of Dijon, touch. It is the patience of osso bucco for nearly Father Felix Kir, who liked to pour Creme de Cassis four hours and it is the knowledge of how a can bring into the bottom of a glass and top it off with a decent a dinner together by matching, competing and washing white . The Kir Royale is a play on that, using

22 ALAMANCE LIVING | SEPTEMBER 2018 instead of the white Burgundy. Diners at Saint Jacques restaurant can The amuse-bouche for the evening was a of experience truly French cuisine. asparagus, , green onion, the aforementioned lemon zest, rolled into a crepe, sliced and sitting on a toast slice of baguette. Now do you understand what I mean about detail and precision? The amuse-bouche is meant to get your mouth ready See FRENCH Page 24

SEPTEMBER 2018 | ALAMANCE LIVING 23 Herb- Crusted Rack of Lamb

Amuse-bouche with Kir Royal and Evian.

FRENCH From Page 23

for even more exciting flavors. classically trained in France, he knew Then we committed, how to prepare them to perfect effect. intentionally, the most gauche of The duck leg, which in preparation is decisions. We asked for the cheese cooked and then stored in its own fat plate to accompany a second Kir before being heated again, showed Royale. In France, the cheese plate the depth of French preparation. The typically follows the entree before the tastes were deep and dark, rich and . light, tender and toothsome. It doesn’t matter if you’re gauche, The was prepared in the though, when the plate is strewn with classic French tradition of letting the a homemade goat cheese wrapped food speak. It was seared quickly, in local blueberries, some muenster, seasoned, set on a toasted baguette a little blue cheese as well as apple and was the most tender protein slices and , where the slight imaginable. fruit acidity will cut the fattiness of We began to wonder why were the cheese, also with more toasted given knives. baguette. It is France, even if in Gibsonville, Cheese plate It’s all so perfect to eat with a Kir so we received a sorbet, to clean the Royale talking about the important palate. A little mint-flavored ice was events of the day. (Note: We did not. perfect. So we were ready. with the patience of French The three tasters were journalists The server that night knew the — reduction — that it made most consumed by important events of entrees well and understood the wine pot roasts taste like deli meat. It was the day. We talked about kittens combinations even better. covered in its own braising and puppies and often said, “This Of the three entrees we ordered, and sitting atop a bed of mushroom is the best thing I’ve ever put in my it’s hard to pick a star. So let us just barley. mouth.”) describe. It’s not understated to say the Despite being two courses, we had The osso bucco, traditionally an osso bucco was revelatory, one of to have appetizers — yes, it’s tough to Italian dish of slowly cooked the great one could have. write about fine dining. shank, showed every second of The excellent wine list, largely from Purely French, we ordered the nearly four hours of braising in , France, offered a Cote du Rhone, a duck leg and the foie gras, two wine and vegetables. The meat was hearty and meaty wine perfect for the French delicacies. Given our chef was fall-off-the-bone and so infused depth of the entree. (The wine list is

24 ALAMANCE LIVING | SEPTEMBER 2018 COOKING CLASSES/EVENTS

Foie Gras

Chef Lil Lacassagne

Chef Lil Lacassagne of Saint Jacques, located inside Burke Manor Inn, 303 Burke St., Gibsonville, holds monthly cooking classes and demonstrations. Space is limited for these events. Reservations can be made by calling 336-449-6266. Upcoming events include:

SEPTEMBER BEER DINNER: 7 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sept. 20. Burke Manor Inn partners with Red Oak Brewery in Whitsett. $69 per person, plus tax and gratuity. FALL FLAVORS AND SCENTS WINE DINNER: 7 p.m. to 9 p.m. Oct. 24. Enjoy a night of wine and exquisite French food featuring fall flavors. $69 per person, plus tax and gratuity.

ANNUAL NOUVEAU WINE DINNER: 7 p.m. to 9 p.m. Nov. 15. Enjoy a night of French food and specialty wine, featuring , a red wine produced in the Beaujolais region of France. $69 per person, plus tax and gratuity. COOKING CLASS: 1:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. Nov. 17. includes Herbed Salmon in a Golden Crispy Roulade; Stuffed Turkey; and Classic Apple Tarte Tatin. Cost is $48 per person, plus tax and gratuity. excellent and quite affordable given The rack of lamb is a heady order, three of the most gorgeous the high quality of the food.) fancy in the 1950s but hard to pull off you’ll see this side of the Haw River: The salmon, an easy order in as Saint Jacques does. The outside of Chocolate Ball of Dream, creme brûlée most , was perfect. The the meat is perfectly seasoned with and Profiteroles. fish is hard seared on the flesh side, fresh herb and then seared, baked We had to have some Port wine to then baked and served with two coins and served. You would be hard- go with it but since our visit, they’ve of flavored . The diner must pressed to say you’ve had better. added a Sauterne. Just order that. It crack the sear, before entering into By then, diners are food high. will change your life. flaky, moist salmon. (Although we All the blood in your brain has left Speaking of life-changing, that’s love the beauty of the butter coins to help the stomach deal with the what a dinner at Saint Jacques at on top of the fish, move them off deluge. Burke Manor can do. The precision, and add a bit to your fork so it melts We said, “at your mercy” to the care, concern, quality and delivery will together in your mouth.) hostess, who quickly returned with show you what truly fine food can be.

SEPTEMBER 2018 | ALAMANCE LIVING 25