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Cuisine and Culture, a History of Food and People ffirs.qxd 12/20/06 11:05 AM Page i CUISINEand CULTURE ffirs.qxd 12/20/06 11:05 AM Page ii ffirs.qxd 12/20/06 11:05 AM Page iii SECOND EDITION CUISINEand CULTURE A History of Food and People LINDA CIVITELLO John Wiley & Sons, Inc. ffirs.qxd 12/20/06 11:05 AM Page iv This book is printed on acid-free paper. Copyright © 2008 by Linda Civitello. All rights reserved. Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. Published simultaneously in Canada. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600, or on the web at www.copyright.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 201-748-6011, fax 201-748-6008, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the publisher and author have used their best efforts in preparing this book, they make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and specifically disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales representatives or written sales materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation. You should consult with a professional where appropriate. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages. For general information on our other products and services, or technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the United States at 800- 762-2974, outside the United States at 317-572-3993 or fax 317-572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. For more information about Wiley products, visit our Web site at http://www.wiley.com. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data: Civitello, Linda. Cuisine and culture : a history of food and people / Linda Civitello. — 2nd ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN-13: 978-0-471-74172-5 ISBN-10: 0-471-74172-8 1. Food—History. 2. Food—Social aspects. I. Title. TX353.C565 2007 641.3—dc22 2006018003 Printed in the United States of America 10987654321 ftoc.qxd 1/16/07 3:36 PM Page v CONTENTSONTENTS ANTIPASTO/ANTOJITOS/AMUSE-BOUCHES: FOOD FOR THOUGHT xiii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xx First Course From Rawto Cooked: PREHISTORY, MESOPOTAMIA, EGYPT, CHINA, INDIA 1 PREHISTORY 1 THE ANCIENT AGRICULTURAL REVOLUTION 5 THE FERTILE CRESCENT: THE TIGRIS AND EUPHRATES RIVERS 10 EGYPT: THE NILE RIVER 13 CHINA: THE YELLOW (HUANG HE) RIVER 18 INDIA: THE INDUS RIVER 22 Second Course Grain, Grape, Olive: ANCIENT GREECE AND IMPERIAL ROME 25 THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA 25 GREECE 26 THE ROMAN EMPIRE 34 Third Course Crazy Bread, Coffee, and Courtly Manners: CHRISTENDOM, ISLAM, AND BYZANTIUM IN THE MIDDLE AGES, 500–1300 53 CHRISTENDOM: THE EARLY MIDDLE AGES IN WESTERN EUROPE 54 THE MUSLIM EMPIRE: BAGHDAD 60 THE EASTERN ROMAN EMPIRE: BYZANTIUM 65 CULTURE CLASH: THE CRUSADES 69 CHRISTENDOM: THE LATE MIDDLE AGES IN EUROPE 70 Fourth Course Tea, Chocolate, and the First Cookbook: MEDIEVAL ASIA, THE AMERICAS, AND RENAISSANCE EUROPE TO 1500 83 ASIA 83 EUROPE 91 THE AMERICAN EMPIRES 100 COLUMBUS SETS SAIL FOR THE AMERICAS: 1492 109 v ftoc.qxd 1/16/07 3:36 PM Page vi vi CONTENTS Fifth Course The Columbian Exchange and the Protestant Reformation: SUGAR AND VICE IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY 111 OLD WORLD TO NEW 111 NEW WORLD TO OLD 128 JAPAN 134 EUROPE 136 Sixth Course Thanksgiving, Hutspot, and Haute Cuisine: SEVENTEENTH-CENTURY AMERICA, THE NETHERLANDS, RUSSIA, FRANCE 144 COLONIAL AMERICA 144 THE SCIENTIFIC REVOLUTION 156 THE GOLDEN AGE OF THE NETHERLANDS 157 THE RUSSIAN BEAR 163 FRANCE 167 Seventh Course Election Cake and “Let Them Eat Cake”: THE AMERICAN AND FRENCH REVOLUTIONS—THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY AND THE ENLIGHTENMENT 173 THE ENLIGHTENMENT 173 AMERICA: FROM COLONY TO COUNTRY 175 THE FRENCH REVOLUTION: “LET THEM EAT CAKE” 187 THE NAPOLEONIC ERA: 1799–1815 193 NAPOLEON’S AFTERMATH 204 Eighth Course From Coyotes to Coca-Cola: THE NINETEENTH CENTURY IN AMERICA 206 “GO WEST, YOUNG MAN!” 206 THE SOUTH 210 THE CIVIL WAR—1850–1865 213 RECONSTRUCTION—1865–1877 216 THE WEST: THE RAILROAD AND THE INDIAN WARS—1860s–1886 219 THE GILDED AGE 224 NINETEENTH-CENTURY HEALTH FOOD MOVEMENTS 235 ftoc.qxd 1/16/07 3:36 PM Page vii CONTENTS vii Ninth Course Sanitation, Nutrition, Colonization: THE NINETEENTH CENTURY IN EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFRICA 241 GERMS AND GENES 242 THE BRITISH EMPIRE 246 AFRICA ENSLAVED: WORKING FOR PEANUTS 249 INIDA: “THE JEWEL IN THE CROWN” 254 CHINA: TEA AND OPIUM 255 EASTERN EUROPE 260 ITALY: UNIFIED COUNTRY, REGIONAL CUISINE 264 Tenth Course The Purity Crusade, Cuisine Classique, and Communal Food: THE EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY IN EUROPE AND THE UNITED STATES 270 THE NEW IMMIGRANTS AND THE MELTING POT 270 PROGRESSIVES AND THE PURITY CRUSADE 276 DINING DE LUXE IN THE BELLE EPOQUE 284 WORLD WAR I AND THE RUSSIAN REVOLUTION 292 Eleventh Course Prohibition, Soup Kitchens, Spam, and TV Dinners: THE ROARING TWENTIES, THE DEPRESSION, WORLD WAR II, AND THE COLD WAR 301 THE ROARING TWENTIES IN THE UNITED STATES 301 THE GREAT DEPRESSION AND THE NEW DEAL 310 WORLD WAR II 318 POST-WORLD WAR II AND THE COLD WAR 326 THE FAST-FOOD FIFTIES 329 TCwelfth ourse Revolutions in Cuisines and Cultures: FROM “BON APPÉTIT” TO “BAM!” THE 1960S INTO THE NEW MILLENNIUM 335 THE SIXTIES: REVOLUTIONS IN COLOR 335 THE SEVENTIES: FOOD REVOLUTIONS 339 THE EIGHTIES: POLITICAL AND RESTAURANT REVOLUTIONS 342 THE NINETIES: THE RISE OF THE CELEBRITY CHEF 349 THE NEW MILLENNIUM AND THE FUTURE OF FOOD 356 ftoc.qxd 1/16/07 3:36 PM Page viii viii CONTENTS APPENDIX A: FRENCH PRONUNCIATION 370 APPENDIX B: ITALIAN PRONUNCIATION 371 APPENDIX C: MAJOR WARS AND BATTLES (NOT ANCIENT) 372 APPENDIX D: SELECTED COOKBOOK AND FOOD BOOKS CHRONOLOGY 374 NOTES 382 SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY 392 INDEX 401 Recipes, Menus, and Ingredients Egyptian Ful Medames 14 Garum or Liquamen 42 Wassail 80 Chicha—Corn Beer 104 Pavo in Mole Poblano (Turkey in Sauce) 116 Feijoada 121 Portuguese / Hawaiian Sweet Bread (Pão Doce) 136 Pie with Live Birds 142 Hopping (or Hoppin’) John 146 Flip 156 Hutspot, the Dutch Dish 160 The Sixteen-Course Citrus Dinner 172 Pennsylvania Dutch Eggs Pickled in Beet Juice 176 Election Cake Comparison 187 King Cake—the Cake with a Baby Inside 200 Spartan Broth 203 Atwood & Bacon restaurant menu, 1826227 Tom Yung Kung (Dom Yam Gung), Thai Hot and Sour Shrimp Soup 258 Mamuang Kao Nieo, Mango with Sticky Rice 259 Bigos, Polish Hunter’s Stew 275 Claire Criscuolo’s Squash Blossom Pancakes 283 Chicken Kiev 295 Los Angeles County Annual Barbecue 311 Menu: Civilian Conservation Corps 313 The War Cake 323 Chef Kimmy Tang’s Saigon Rolls 347 George Delgado’s Lady Libertini Martini 360 Joy Martin’s Salmon Carpaccio 364 ftoc.qxd 1/16/07 3:36 PM Page ix CONTENTS ix Food Fables/ Culinary Confusions/ Crossing Cultures Crossing Cultures: New Year Celebrations 21 Food Fable: The Sacred Cow 24 Culinary Confusion: Tuna 27 Food Fable: The Ancient Greek Way to Drink and Not Get Drunk 30 Food Fable: Who Was Apicius? 43 Food Fable: “Feed a Cold, Starve a Fever” 57 Food Fable: Imam Bayaldi—”The Holy Man Fainted” 63 Food Fable: Where Coffee Comes From 64 Food Fable: The Poison Taster 76 Food Fable: Marco Polo and Pasta 81 Food Fable: Where the Tea Leaf Comes From 84 Crossing Cultures: Filled Dumplings 89 Food Fable: Spices and Rotten Meat 95 Culinary Confusion: Corn and Maize 104 Food Fable: Where Salt and Chile Peppers Come From 108 Food Fable: Mole Myths 115 Culinary Confusion: Barbecue 120 Food Fable: Catherine de Medici—Did She or Didn’t She? 139 Food Fable: Squanto and Fish Fertilizer 147 Culinary Confusion: Cobbler, Slump, Grunt, Dumpling, Crumble, and Crisp 155 Food Fable: Where the Croissant Comes From 170 Crossing Cultures: Sandwich 180 Food Fable: Where the Cocktail Comes From 183 Food Fable: Origins of the Restaurant 193 Food Fable: Napoleon and Wellington 204 Culinary Confusion: Yam and Sweet Potato 251 Food Fable: The Origin of Chop Suey 257 Food Fable: Rigo´ Jancsi 264 Culinary Confusion: Ice Cream and Gelato 268 Food Fable: American Soldiers and World War II Food 328 Culinary Puzzle: The French Paradox 355 Holiday History Kispu 12 Passover 18 Chinese New Year 20 ftoc.qxd 1/16/07 3:36 PM Page x x CONTENTS Easter 49 Ramadan 61 Halloween, October 31, and All Saints’ Day, November 1 75 Japanese Tea Ceremony 134 Maple Moon 148 Thanksgiving 151 St. Lucia’s Day, December 13 165 Election Day 186 Bastille Day, July 14 191 Mardi Gras and Carnevale 200 Christmas, December 25 216 Juneteenth, June 19 217 Cinco de Mayo, May 5 218 Testicle Festivals 227 Valentine’s Day, February 14 233 Columbus Day, October 12 235 St. Patrick’s Day, March 17 247 Royal Plowing Ceremony 258 Selametan 260 Oktoberfest 261 San Gennaro in New York’s Little Italy, September 12–21 272 Polish Fest 275 Mother’s Day, The Second Sunday in May 282 St.
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