Isaiah Davenport House Volunteer Newsletter December 2009 www.davenporthousemuseum.org 236-8097

The Happy Condition DAVENPORT HOUSE CALENDAR November 30 at 10 a.m. and The man who, for life, is blest with a Tuesday, December 1 – Wreath Tuesday, December 1 at 2 p.m. wife, decorating We could use some docents to help Is sure, in a happy condition: 2 p.m. – Review and refresher with the Holly Jolly tours which take Go things as they will, she’s fond of for docents of December inter- place on all nights between Novem- him still, pretation ber 27 and December 23. Old She’s comforter, friend and physician. November 30 through December Town Trolley has a wonderful crew 4 in the afternoon – Prep for of docents and the DH and OTT Pray where is the joy, to trifle and toy! Holiday Bazaar split tour guide duties. Some nights Yet dread some disaster from beauty! Friday, December 4 from 5 to 7 there are two or more trolleys and But sweet is the bliss of a conjugal kiss, p.m. – Annual Christmas Party on Monday, December 7 there will Where love mingles pleasure with – y’all come! be 5! Jamie, Jeff and Raleigh set up duty. Saturday, December 5 from 10 and give tours. So far Jody Leyva, a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday, Maria Sanchez and Anthony San- One extravagant Miss won’t cost a December 6 from 1 to 5 p.m. chez have agreed to help as well. man less – Holiday Bazaar at the Ken- Any others of you who can help us Than twenty good wives that are sav- nedy Pharmacy spread the Christmas cheer!? ing; Tuesday, December 8 all day – For, wives they will spare, that their Alliance for Response (Disaster SHOP NEWS : children may share, Planning) Workshop in Savan- - REMEMBER YOUR But Misses forever are craving. nah DISCOUNT : Volun- December 18, 1819, Savannah Republican . Thursday, December 17 at 6:30 teers, Staff, Friends of the p.m. – It’s a JI Christmas! Davenport House and Historic Sa- Dancing Academy. Greed Game and All (Party) vannah Foundation members re- Mr. Theodore B. Fayolle begs Friday, December 25 – Museum ceive a 20% discount on DH Shop leave to inform the citizens of Savan- closed for Christmas (The mu- purchases December 1 through 15! nah that he will open a DANCIN- seum closes at 1 p.m. on De- - Savannah Garden Plants is in for GACADEMY, on Thursday, the 8 th cember 24.) $9.99. Roy Heizer wrote the text inst. At the large commodious room of Saturday, December 26 through and Nancy Heizer was the photog- the court house. He will also give pri- Wednesday, December 30 – rapher. vate lessons to the ladies and gentle- Holiday Evening Tours by - ShopforMuseum.com : We re- men on application to him at the Candlelight cently got a reminder that if you house occupied by Mrs. Pierce, oppo- Thursday, December 31 at 1 p.m. shop on line, use the ShopforMu- site the Washington Hall. – DH closes for the New seum.com website to get to your The days of tuition will be Tues- Year’s holiday (all day Friday, favorite online stores (ABEbooks, day’s Thursday’s and Saturday’s, from January 1) Amazon, eBay, etc.) and you note 3 to 6 o’clock P.M. for young ladies, the DH as your partner, the DH will and from 6 to 9 for gentlemen. PLANNING TO PARTY receive a portion of the sale. It’s a Mr. Fayolle will also give lessons AND THEN SHOP : nice way to shop online that benefits every day in the week, at the same Please remember we museums. place, at such hours of the morning as want you at the DH - Back in stock : Jonathan Stal- may best suit families, who are desir- Christmas Party on cup’s book on Savannah architec- ous to form into classes, or would prefer December 4 from 5 to ture. receiving private lessons. 7 p.m. for us to say thank you for - New shop items : Wooden card Persons wishing information as to being a part of the DH’s world. boxes ($9.95), brass pocket compass Mr. Fayolle’s moral character, educa- Also, we want you to shop at our (14.95), magnifying glass on stand tion and talents, will be pleased to Holiday Bazaar either during the ($19.95), brass fireman’s plaque enquire of Mr. Petit DeVillers and of Christmas Party or on December ($17.95) M. John Guenin. Price of tuition on $5 5/6! Hope to see you. - As for holiday shopping : Re- entrance and $15 per quarter. member we have one of the best Nov 18 229 DOCENT REVIEW : selections of Savannah history and There will be a docent review of the preservation books in town. Also, December 7, 1819, Savannah Republican December interpretation Monday, we are one of the few places that sell bobeches and linen handkerchiefs. for making the program happen by pharmacy, so that on the - And, we are the only place in the providing funding for materials, lower level of the museum world that sells the Davenport snacks and nametags. house an asbestos abate- House tea towel with Allan Drum- ment can take place, new dry wall mond’s design depicted ($9.95) KENNEDY PHARMACY : may be put up in the kitchen if nec- - DH once again has customized - The patio project is nearing com- essary to hold the cabinetry, new calendars (24) for sale at $16 a pletion. The storage unit was built tile will be put down in the kitchen, piece. You can pick one up at the by Jonathan Hall . Features of the rest rooms and north end closets, Christmas party. new fence include 184 pickets from new carpet will be laid in the shop Wormsloe and slate pavement. and offices, new kitchen appliances QUESTION OF THE The Barrows of Wormsloe do- and cabinets will be installed, and MONTH : nated the pickets from some they the large rest room will be made A docent was asked, “Where did had on hand and Savannah Hard- properly handicapped accessible. Mrs. Davenport keep her sewing scapes provided the slate at the cost All of this will occur with the coop- machine?” of the originally planned brick. eration of the staff, Tandy - Thank you to those who helped Mackenzie who will assist with the HOLIDAY EVENING TOURS BY with the November 19 th open move and prep for the kitchen, Ac- CANDLELIGHT : house for caterers and event plan- tion Insulation Co . who will do As you know the DH will be open ners including Jan Vach , who put the abatement, Home Depot who for tours between 6 and 8:30 p.m. together the mailing list, Roger will lay the tile, Lowe’s who with Saturday, December 26 through 30. Smith who served and was a fine their subcontractor ( M& W Con- We need docents who will station host, Dirk Hardison , who put to- struction ) will install the kitchen rooms either in period costume or gether a variety of configurations of cabinets and appliances, and festive attire. We also need musical tables and chairs to understand how Bloomquist Construction will do performers – key board, zither, re- the building can be utilized, Jeff the work for the rest room up- corder, strings, etc. If you know Freeman and Raleigh Marcell, who grades. We are hopeful that this anyone who would like to share worked the event and all of the DH work can be completed in the two tunes with our audience, please let staff for getting the mailing out and week time allotted in order for us to Jamie know. Volunteers with cos- taking reservations. get back to business. At the same tumes will be stationed at the be- - Dirk’s Measured Drawings : time work will be going on in the ginning of the tour. Planning and From Dirk Hardison’s measured basement our Annual Cleaning will scheduling for the program will drawings of the interior of the take place and Ben Head will at- occur throughout December. pharmacy we know that 4 rounds tend the January Gift Market in of 8 chairs (40 people), 6 rectangu- Atlanta. We will run the house JI REPORT : lar tables of 6 (36 people), 50 peo- from the pharmacy during the - All JIs are invited to a JI Christ- ple theater style, and 10 six foot weeks the house is closed, answer- mas Celebration with the “greed tables and two eight foot tables ing phone calls and preparing for game” and tasty treats at 6:30 on “trade show style” can be set up spring programming. There will be Thursday, December 17. comfortably for your patrons. This a few days January 3 through 5 and - SAA JIs did a fantastic job with is useful! January 18 – when things may be giving tours to the public on Friday, - Jim Abraham gave the nutty because of packing and un- November 27 and Saturday, No- “Kennedy Pharmacy Story” to JIs packing – when the house will re- vember 28. Say Hurray! to: Molly on November 18. Notes from the main open. Alexander, Melissa Hinely, Nick discussion will be the subject of a Colbrook, Donald Smooth, Seema January newsletter article. This MAINTENANCE : Patel, Kim Stastny, Lindsey Braden, material can be used to give a tour New shutters on the arched win- Amber Adams, Ruben Ramos, and of the building or to briefly explain dow on the east side of the house at Lindsey Deering. Leah Wade and the pharmacy and its rehab to pro- the attic level were fashioned, Amanda Baskin will give their first spective renters or meeting plan- painted and installed by Bloom- tours on December 5. LeeAnn ners. Bet you can’t wait to read! quist Construction. Their work- Grayson, Annelise Wornat and man also replaced the shutters to Madison Roberson will give their JANUARY WILL BRING CHANGE : the Palladian window. A friend first tours on December 12. The museum will be closed January told us that shutters often don’t Thanks to Becca Dawson for help 6 through 18 for “big doin’s” in the have a life of more than two years if on JI Days and an extra special basement. During that time the not secured to a wall with fasten- thank you to Wormsloe Foundation offices and shop will move to the ers!! Yikes! - Gaye Drummond , Kathryn find out . . . Mr. Huger of Asheville FIELD TRIP REPORT : Egan Stout and Raleigh Marcell is a direct descendant of our Francis Twenty-one DH folks planted garden pots and the parterre Kinlock Huger. The modern Mr. traveled to Charleston and pulled dead aspidistra leaves on Huger was researching house mu- on November 6 and had grand time November 2. seum management for the Smith because of the hospitality of our - An AP story on Savannah squares McDowell House and is the outgo- colleagues in our sister city. All written by Shirley Smith was sent ing president of the board of the agreed that the variety of houses we out to all points. A friend in Roa- Western North Carolina Historical visited and the varying states of re- noke, VA sent word of the story, Association. Small world . . . in his- pair and interpretation made an in- docents brought in copies of the tory. teresting study. We spent an intrigu- story in the Utica, NY paper and we - DH on the Blogosphere: We ing time with Valerie Perry at the found it on line in the Canadian found a blog called Reverse Phone Aiken-Rhett House which is a sta- press. The article mentioned the Number Look Up which reviewed bilized structure. Much of our time DH and featured a photo of the the DH. A portion of it reads: was spent in the servants’ area dis- house. The Savannah CVB pro- Some tourists cussing the expansion of the house vided Smith info for the story. may find the Isaiah Daven- museum’s interpretation to include -Secretary : The 1840s secretary port House in Savannah all the people who played a role in which used to be in the DH Office simple and not opulent the life of the house. Following the did not sell at the Everard Auction enough for their tastes. That AR we toured the Manigault in November. It will be offered at a is one of the reasons I very House where in the entrance hall later sale with a lower minimum bid. much like it. I think it is much harder to staff greet visitors and provide them - Decorators supreme!: Thank picture how less affluent people lived 200 (at least large groups like ours) with you to Jan Vach and Linda Meyer years ago. No, the Davenport House is not an overview of the house’s history for executing our room changes for Winterthur, it's not Biltmore, and it's not and then allow them to wander and the December interpretation. They even as nice as many of the other large view the rooms at will while assist- also created the wreaths for the houses you'll see just a few blocks away in ing only with questions. The Na- front and rear of the museum. the historic district of Savannah. thaniel Russell House was the piece - Holiday Bazaar : A whole bunch But, Isaiah Davenport gave de resistance – perfection in restora- of volunteers have been helping much to the city of Savannah. He served tion and we had a witty and charm- with preparations for the Holiday on the city councils; he worked on many of ing interpreter especially chosen for Bazaar as well as having signed up the beloved squares in Savannah. I think us. The last stop was on the Battery to work the event. A report on the it is very fitting that a man who helped at the Edmonston Alston House Bazaar will be in the January news- build so much of what is most delightful which has the most stunning view of letter. We are grateful for all of your about Savannah should find his home to the river. Our colleagues with the efforts! be the first to be purchased for restoration Middleton Place Foundation pro- - FACEBOOK : The Davenport by the Historic Savannah Foundation. vided us with complementary ad- House has a “fan page” on Face- If they ever decide they don't mission for which we were grateful book. We will post events, occur- want it anymore, I'll be glad to take it off and will return the favor. We were rences, photos and announcements their hands. But, I will have to do some- charmed by our docent Jesse Mat- on the page as time allows. If you thing about that current lack of a kitchen. thews. It was a great day – including would like to be a “fan,” type in http://valencias.org/ crab cakes and pecan pie at Magno- “Davenport House Museum” under reversephonenumber- lia Restaurant. We have begun to search and press – “become a fan.” lookup/2009/11/09/davenport/ plan the February “local” trip which - Meeting of a Huger : If you re- will be a visit to Savannah from the call two years ago during our A look at the DH guest register : African American prospective with “Lafayette’s Return” living history During the month of November Jamal Touré as our guide. More program Jeff Freeman portrayed the (2009), we saw visitors from 44 about this trip soon. illustrious Francis Kinlock Huger of states and 8 countries including Aus- South Carolina who tried to rescue tralia, Bermuda, England, Germany, WORTH MENTIONING : General Lafayette from the prison at The Netherlands, Philippines and - Objects on Exhibit for Decem- Olmutz, Austria. The South Caro- Poland. Some interesting home- ber: Two new objects on exhibit lina pronunciation of the name is towns include Romoland, CA, are in the Office the foot warmer you-gee. We got a call on Thanks- Hockessin, DE, Loami, IL, Eldora, (with the door open so you can see giving eve from our friend Craig IA, Yarmouth, ME, Havre de the ember tray) and in the Morning Barrow that a Mr. You-gee would Grace, MD, Swampscott, MA, Room the cookbook with the pages like to come by the DH which we Anoka, MN, Vancleave, MS, Sunny- open to “Swine’s Foot Jelly.” accommodated gladly. Come to side, NY, New Philadelphia, OH, Bend, OR, Roy, UT and Luxemburg, Molly." was serving Madeira for one of the WI. Tauck Tours. There was a gentleman VOLUNTEER SPOTLIGHT there whose family was from the Where they heard about us: Tour De Gassman island of Madeira! ...He said I did guide (mentioned by name: Haunted DH : How did you come to well with my presentation. Whew! Tour – Cobblestone, Juliette Gordon be associated with the DH: How long have you been in Low House, Elderhostel, carriage Davenport House? Savannah? If not from Savannah, tour), guide book (mentioned by De: Dottie picked me up at where are you from originally? name: AAA, Fodor’s), trolley tour Bonaventure! We had just moved to De: I was born in Ohio and was (mentioned by name Old Savannah, Savannah and I was visiting the pretty much raised in Monroe, Lou- Old Town, Oglethorpe, Grayline), cemetery. Dottie invited me to come isiana. We moved to the Atlanta area brochure, walk bys, concierge to the DH. in 1994 to be closer to some of my (mentioned by name: Marriott, DH: What professions did you or siblings. This spring, my husband Kehoe House, Mulberry Inn, Man- do you have outside of the DH? and I were just talking and asked sion at Forsyth Park, Gastonian, De: I've been a restaurant owner each other the question: "If we could Marshall House, Harbor Inn), Visi- and a teacher; then I had a small live anywhere in the country, where tors Center, Internet, friends marketing company. I became a would you want to live?" We both (mentioned by name: Karen Hal- Realtor in 1999 and Business Broker said 'Savannah'. So we moved here loran, Dr. Thomas Taylor, Jamie’s last year - just as the economy was in July. Mother), bus tour, relative, map, nose-diving. Now I'm just trying to DH: Where else have you return visit find out where this unique set of lived and what is your favorite? skills and experiences can best be De: Savannah! What They Had To Say used. I guess you could say I'm trying DH: What is your favorite season "Impressive & interesting historic to decide what I want to be when I in Savannah and why? house." "Lovely tour with Flor- grow up! De: Since we haven't been here ence." "Great experience." DH: What is your favorite thing through all seasons yet, it's hard to "Lovely." "Wonderful." "Great about the Davenport House? say. I'm very much looking forward guide, Marty." "Awesome." De: The people that I've met to Christmas and St. Patty's day, but "Fabulous! Great tour!" "Loved it." here. Also, the feeling of satisfaction I love spring & summer. "Nice birthday gift visiting old Sa- I get from contributing in some DH: What is your favorite thing vannah." "Very educational. Loved small way to what is essentially the to do in Savannah (besides being the history lesson." "Wonderful tour epicenter of preservation in Savan- a docent at the DH)? and tour guide!!! Excellent." nah. De: It's SO hard to say just one fa- "Fantastic." "Great tour." DH: What made you decide to vorite thing! I love walking the "Excellent, especially Marty! Thanks become a docent at the Daven- squares. Watching the big ships "Your guided tour by Marty was port House? come up the Savannah River. Help- fabulous." "Jan Kemp gave a very De: I wanted to participate in pres- ing the tourists (now that I'm not informative tour. Excellent." "Good ervation in some way. Since I can't one:). There is always something tour - glad it was saved." "Beautiful yet buy/save/preserve/restore a pleasant going on some- restoration." "Thank you! We en- property directly, I decided to do where...music, festivals, weddings, joyed it very much!" "Guide very what I CAN do. DH provides an tours... When it's warm: BEACH knowledgeable." "Beautiful. Simply outlet for my 'preservation gene', so time! We used to have to plan a ma- amazing!" "Very detailed and infor- to speak. In short, it's rewarding. jor trip to get beach time...now I can mative." "Beautiful home - love the DH: What do you love most decide at any time, day or night, and history." "Guide was wonderfully about the Davenport House? then have my toes in the sand within knowledgeable." "I learned a lot. De: If we're talking 'literally' here, I 30 minutes! Many thanks." "Very exciting. May absolutely LOVE the plaster-work in those who chose to preserve the the house! And second would be the Wishing You—Our Dear house be blessed for their good amazing clearance at the back door Friends— Merry Christmas, deeds.” "Superb example of Georgia on the main level! Happy Holidays and DH: What’s the most unusual home. Lovely." "On our honey- a Happy New Year! moon." "Celebrating one year anni- thing that has ever happened to versary." "47th Anniversary." "Very you at the DH? good tour guide, Beth." "Excellent De: I'm very new to the DH, so the style and craftsmanship." "Great unusual hasn't really happened presentation." "Beautiful. Great job, yet. One very cool thing was when I Delightful Holiday Concoctions – Jellies and Syllabub . . . And Jellies and other Glasses how different our worlds are . . . in the Savannah

Have you noticed when visiting one of the fine 18 th century houses such as those in Inventories: Colonial Williamsburg the arrangement of small cylindrical glasses with colorful jellies and creams inside that centers the festive table? In the grandest of homes, such as the Isaiah Davenport (1828) Governor’s Palace, these glasses are often arranged in a dessert pyramid of glass sal- 4 doz cut and plain wine glasses vers. Sometimes placed around the jellies and creams are sweetmeats and cakes. Be- – 7.00 cause of their placement one expects that they were a highlight both for the eye and as 2 doz cut and plain tumblers – well as the appetite. 5.00

And then you wonder, “What is that gelatinous mixture? Is that Jell-O?” Without re- Joseph Clay (1805) frigeration or electric mixers or prepackaged gelatin, how did that work? The two 1 Glass Pyramid & 3 doz “treats” noted by historians and historic cookbooks as filling these glasses are fruit fla- Glasses vored jellies and syllabub, both of which have long culinary histories and may be com- pletely unfamiliar to the modern foodie. Francis Doyle (1817) 1 table set of glass-ware 30.00 One source notes that syllabub, served either as a frothy dessert or beverage, was a 16 th 1 plated stand and castors 5.00 century invention. The determination on whether it is a drink or a dessert is how 2 plated and gilt goblets and much wine is used in the recipe. Less would get you a spoonable dessert and more stands – 10.00 would result in a sweet drink of punch. Authorities have noted that the “bub” in sylla- bub “was a medieval slang for a bubbly drink .” The usual ingredients in syllabub are Oliver Sturges (1824) cream, whipped egg whites, lemon juice, lemon zest, sugar, nutmeg and an alcohol 1 cordial stand (cider, wine or champagne). One food historian writes “a range of methods were used 1 plated stand to produce syllabub of quite different character,” as is indicated by the great variety of 1 glass stand for jellies wines that are noted in recipes such as “dry white wine, brandy, cider, port, sherry, Ma- 3 doz. jelly glasses deira, or a combination of two.” It can be assumed “the sheer range of alcoholic choices indicates the chef used whatever was readily available.” The beverage most Gardner Tufts (1824) often noted is white wine. A set of crockery and glassware

100.000 Two fascinating points in early syllabub recipes are it is to be made directly “by the cow” and there is often no specification about the temperature of the concoction. In “American’s first cookbook” Amelia Simmons’ American Cookery (1796) notes the rec- Philip Brasch (1825) ipe “To Make a fine Syllabub from the Cow” which calls for “Sweeten a quart of cyder 2 doz. Glass sweetmeat saucers with double refined sugar, grate nutmeg into it, then milk the cow into your liquor . . .” – 10.00 What?! Could that taste good? 1 glass cake plate 4.00 1 cordial stand with bottles A hands-on food historian writes: 12.00 I can . . . confirm from my own experiences, that milking a cow 1 ½ custard cups 1.50 straight into a bowl of sweetened cider, ale or wine produces a result 1 doz. finger glasses – 3.00 that differs radically from the 20 th century expectations of what a sylla- 4 jelly moulds .50 bub should be. Although a bubbly froth initially forms on the top of the liquid, this quickly subsides and the mixture separates into a William Henry Greene (1828) creamy whey below a floating mass of clotted, stringy curd, of a kind 1 lot glassware – 20.00 more likely to grace a baby’s bib than a regal banqueting table. Unless your syllabub cow is extremely well-groomed, the congealing milk will Herman D. Greene (1828) also be garnished here and there with cow hairs and the odd speck of 1 doz wine & 1 doz cordial bovine dandruff, a most unappetizing prospect, at least to our modern glasses 5.00 eyes. (Ivan Day) William Davies (1829) The writer goes on to say that he eventually was successful at making a fine frothy syl- Glassware, decanters 40.00 labub made “under the cow.” It took practice, determined research and being able to read in between the lines, as old recipes often leave out points that we would find nec- Joseph Habersham (1832) essary. Hannah Glasse in Art of Cookery directs us to “pour over the Top half a Pint or 2 glass pyramids – 2.00 a Pint of Cream.” Another recipe notes to remove the curd. Another recipe calls for 2 doz. jelly glasses – 2.00 adding cream to the wine in advance and shake before being finished “under the cow.” By the 18 th century “whipt syllabubs” became the most popular form of this type of Alexander Telfair (1833) concoction and is probably syllabub early 19 th century Savannahians would have recog- 6 doz jelly glasses 18.00 nized. See continuation of “Delightful.” Continuation of “ Delightful .” Jelly,” and “Transparent Pudding.” It the labor and pandemonium that went To make a whipt syllabub, cream also provides the wonderful citation on in the kitchen of the home while was poured into a wine mixture and “nostrums that are used at fashionable preparing a tasty syllabub or fruit jelly beaten with a birch rod, willow entertainment” noting desserts and such as swine’s food jelly in the 1820s. twigs or a chocolate mill. Whisks treats served mentioning “creams – Though we do not know for sure that made with rosemary branches were orange, lemon, ice &c/ jellies, orange, they were served in their home, cer- popular as they contributed a flavor quince do & swine’s foot do .” tainly they were part of the gracious to the cream. The resulting layer of tables of friends and neighbors. So in slightly oily bubbles were carefully Swine’s food jelly? Just in case you recognition of “jellies past” during the skimmed off with a spoon and didn’t know it, before prepackaged month of December, the side board in transferred to a dish or horse-hair gelatin, cooks boiled calf’s feet to ob- the Davenport House dining room is sieve to drain. The mixture was tain the coagulated consistency of jelly! graced with faux jellies in a pinkish hue whisked again to produce more It was a tedious and time consuming in reproduction glasses all custom foam and the process repeated, one affair to scrape hair from the feet, boil- made by an English Company Replica layer of bubbles being heaped upon ing them for hours then simmering to Warehouse. And, I suspect many of another. Although it might take an clarify the broth and filtering through us would prefer to enjoy the glistening hour or so, a whipt syllabub made jelly bags. gelatinaity instead of actually tasting the from a pint of cream produced an historic mixtures! enormous quantity of insubstantial One on-line food historian writes, suds – enough to fill a gallon “Calves-foot jelly has two forms: sweet, pancheon. . . . After a long period common in 19th-century Britain and SOURCES : Untitled book and “Recipes for Puddings”, Box of draining on the sieve – up to a America; and savoury--called petcha , a 8, Manuscript Collection 793, Georgia full day – the foam was transformed standard of Ashkenazi Jewish cooking. Historical Society. into a much drier, extremely light Both dishes start with a long braise of ReplicaWarehouse. CO.UK. 200 Main Road, fluff. This was usually spooned split cow's feet. The latter adds garlic, Goostrey, Cheshire, CW 4 8PD, England onto sweetened wine, or coloured onion, salt and pepper, and usually re- Email: [email protected] www.replicawarehouse.co.uk whey, and served in wide topped tains the meat that falls from the feet; glasses. (Ivan Day) the former adds sugar, Madeira wine, Historic cookbooks : brandy, cinnamon and citrus, and dis- Mrs. Child, The American Frugal Housewife . Later in the 18 th century, “it was dis- cards the meat. In both cases the stock Boston: Carter, Hendee, and Co. 1833. (Old Sturbridge Village reproduction) covered that lowering the proportion is chilled until it sets, and the fat that Mary F. Henderson, Practical Cooking and Din- of wine and using a thicker cream, en- rises to the top is skimmed off.” (Jon ner Giving. 1876. (on-line) abled whipt syllabubs to be made with- Fasman) Sarah Rutledge, The Carolina Housewife . 1845 out the tedious process of spooning off (University of South Carolina Press, repro- the bubbles as they rose. After a short He continues on the unfamiliarity of duction). Mary Randolph, The Virginia House-wife . period of vigorous whisking these the tastes to contemporary palates: 1824 (University of South Carolina Press, thicker mixtures set into a uniform “Both forms of calves-foot jelly seem reproduction). lather, rather like modern whipped wrong now: the sweet because we Amelia Simmons, The First American Cook- cream. A certain amount of liquid rarely use meat in desserts, and the sa- book : A Facimile of “American Cookery,” 1796. (Dover Publications) might form at the bottom of the bowl, voury because we associate gelatin's Louis Eustache Ude, French Cook, A System but these `solid’ syllabubs were firm wobbliness with pudding.” (Jon Fas- of Fashionable and Economical Cookery. and stable enough to last for a number man) 1829. (on-line) of days.” (Ivan Day) Instead of the thickening agent pro- Websites and Internet resources : “Calf’s foot jelly,” Barron’s Educational Ser- Now that we understand syllabub, what duced by boiling hog’s feet, a couple of vices, Inc. about jellies? the Telfair recipes call for “isinglass,” Ivan Day, “Further Musings on Syllabub, or which is a clear gelatin formed from Why Not `Jumble It A Pritie While’?”, The whole jelly discussion is intriguing the air bladder of certain fish including Petits Propos Culinaries 53 (1996). Elizabeth Fries Ellet, The New Cyclopaedia of and we were delighted to find in the sturgeon and cod. Though rarely used Domestic Economy ,and Practical House- Telfair Family Papers housed in the today it was certainly used in the des- keeping. Georgia Historical Society clear evi- serts and confections such as fruit jel- “Isinglass.” Definition. dence of the jellies consumed by early lies and blancmange , which is sweet des- Tim Lambert, “A Brief History of Sweets, Bis- 19 th century Savannahians. In the his- sert commonly made with milk or cuits and Puddings” The official website of Colonial Williamburg – toric documents are two recipe books cream and sugar thickened with isin- Dessert Pyramids. http:// from approximately our time period. glass and is mentioned in the Telfair www.history.org/Foundation/journal/ The smaller of the two is entitled recipes. Christmas05/Food.cfm “Recipe Book for Puddings” and in- Stephanie Vander Weide. “Syllabub”: Food History. December 17, 2002. cludes hand-written recipes “to make The Davenports’ was a very different Cold Feet. JON FASMAN From INTELLI- jelly,” “Strawberry Jelly,” “Orange “food world” and we can only imagine GENT LIFE magazine, Summer 2008. Nostrums that are used at fashionable entertainments Transparent Pudding Butter cake iced plain do caraway Beat 8 eggs, put them into a stew Oranges/in winter season in summer pan, Peaches nectarines figs melons With ½ lb. sugar, the Same quantity of butter with Grapes &c – No2 chestnuts Some nutmeg, sit it on the fire Filberts & cordials Keep it stirring until Anniseed, perfect Amour, cimmon, Thickens set . . . And peach cordial, wines, white Recipe Book of Puddings . & red, sweet do punch do & Telfair Collection. GHS. Mead wine Dried fruit/raisins almonds prunes Creams – orange, lemon ices &c jellies Orange, quince do & swines foot do Recipe Book of Puddings . Telfair Collection. GHS . Strawberry Jelly Put some strawberries into an earthenware pan Squeeze them well with a wooden spoon Mix some pounded sugar with the fruit and Syllabub Let them infuse for an hour that the sugar Season the milk with sugar and white wine, May draw out the juice, next pour But not enough to curdle it; fill the glasses in a little water. If the strawberries nearly full, and crown them with whipt are very ripe, squeeze the juice of cream seasoned. 2 lemons. Put all this into a bag Mary Randolph. The Virginia House-wife . that is nearly new that the juice 1824 may be clear Mix some melted isinglass with The juice but mind that the whole To Make Jelly From Feet Is very cold – put a spoon full into a Mould over ice to try it if thick (Calf’s or Swine’s Foot Jelly) Enough put the whole into a mould Boil four calf’s feet, that have been nicely cleaned and the hoofs Cover it with ice. taken off; when the feet are boiled to pieces, strain the liquor [almost word for word – from French Cook. A through a colander, and when cold, take all the grease off and System of Fashionable and Economical Cook- put the jelly in a skillet, leaving the dregs which will be at the ing . 1829] bottom. There should be from four feet, about two quarts of Telfair Collection. GHS. jelly; pour into it one quart of white wine, the juice of six fresh lemons, strained from the seeds, one pound and a half of pow- dered loaf sugar, a little pounded cinnamon and mace, and the To Make Jelly rind thinly pared from two of the lemons; wash eight eggs very Soak 1 and ½ ounces of the isinglass clean, whip up the whites to a froth, crush the shells and put For 25 minutes in cold water – take it out and with them, mix it with the jelly, set it on the fire, stir it occasion- Let it cool and add the beaten ally till the jelly is melted, but do not touch it afterwards. When Whites of 4 eggs – the juice of 3 it has boiled till it looks quite clear on one side, and the dross Lemons – the peel of one a little cinnamon accumulates on the other, take off carefully the thickest part of one pint of wine, the dross, and pour the jelly in the bag; put back what runs And one lb of loaf sugar – stir it well through, until it comes quite transparent; then set a pitcher un- Boil it about a minute – strain it der the bag, and put a cover all over to keep out the dust—the Through a jelly bag into moulds jelly looks much prettier when it is broken to fill the glasses. & leave it in a cool place to The bag should be made of cotton or linen, and be suspended Jelly – the jelly bag is in a frame made for the purpose. The feet of hogs make the Made of flannel eight or ten palest coloured jelly, those of sheep are a beautiful amber col- Inches cross the opening our when prepared. About half a yard deep & Mary Randolph. The Virginia House-Wife. 1824. Narrowing to a point at the bottom. Telfair Collection. GHS.