Welcome to Dubrovnik / Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik

Welcome GRATIS

26 Dr Ivo Felner Bondin Teatar Sokol Grad Broj / Number Zašto volim Dubrovnik / Why I Love Dubrovnik 150 godina dubrovačkog kazališta / 150th Anniversary ( Falcon City ) in Konavle

Grad Dubrovnik

Andro Vlahušić Dear Visitors, Gradonačelnik Grada Dubrovnika Mayor of Dubrovnik Welcome to Dubrovnik, the City of beauty, harmony, and material and spiritual wealth that has been created over centuries. Dragi posjetitelji, I am extremely proud that we can now offer – in the City that boasts historic achievements in the dobrodošli u Dubrovnik, Grad ljepote, sklada, fields of literature, the arts, diplomacy and science materijalnog i duhovnog bogatstva stvaranog – an exceptionally exciting present as well as a stoljećima. promising and developing future, in every sense of Posebno sam ponosan što Vam u Gradu, koji the word, which will inspire you to come back to se diči povijesnim dostignućima u književnosti, Dubrovnik over and over again. umjetnosti, arhitekturi, diplomaciji i znanosti danas Choose some of the entertainment programmes možemo ponuditi izuzetno uzbudljivu sadašnjost in Fort Revelin, Lazareti, Orsula and other unique i perspektivnu, u svakom pogledu razvojnu venues, enjoy top quality events within the budućnost zbog koje će se vrijediti iznova vraćati Dubrovnik Summer Festival and numerous other njegovoj bogatoj ljepoti. Odaberite stoga između independent productions, and, in each of these zabavnih programa u Revelinu, Lazaretima, Orsuli settings, feel the power of history and the love for i drugim jedinstvenim prostorima, ili uživajte na this City that has existed for centuries. kulturnim manifestacijama svjetske razine u sklopu In the names of both the City of Dubrovnik and Ljetnih igara i brojnih nezavisnih produkcija, a u myself, I wish you a pleasant stay in our City, svakom ambijentu osjetite snagu povijesti i ljubavi hoping that you will soon come back! prema Gradu, koja postoji stoljećima. U ime Grada Dubrovnika i svoje osobno ime želim Vam ugodan boravak i skori povratak u naš Grad!

Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik / Welcome to Dubrovnik 3 Romana Vlašić

Direktorica TZ Grada Dubrovnika Dubrovnik Tourist Board Director

upoznati s opusom i značajem glazbenika offers less-known, yet worthy, stories thanks Antuna i Luka Sorkočevića, te slikara Marka to which Dubrovnik has been and will remain Murata. Dubrovnik je Grad koji je pod the only Croatian city in which the word nebeskom zaštitom svoga parca, sv. Vlaha, “city” is written with a capital C. The “C” kojega slavimo 3. veljače. Kako je svečano embodies the entire urban, cultural, artistic tog dana u godini kada ulicama Grada and sophisticated entity of Dubrovnik. prolazi procesija, s barjacima i svečevim In this issue, special attention is given to a štovateljima, u raznolikim i lijepim narodnim Dubrovnik “phenomenon”, which has once nošnjama okolice, svjedoče naše fotografije. again emerged in its most beautiful form O tradiciji proizvodnje svilenog konca kojim – philanthropy. Dubrovnik’s fine tradition Dragi gosti, poštovani je izvezen dio prelijepe ženske konavoske of donating one’s heritage for the benefit of nošnje, upoznat ćemo vas kroz priču slikarice the wider community, thus expressing one’s čitatelji magazina Antonie Rusković Radonić, koja uzgaja love of- and commitment to the City, has Welcome to Dubrovnik! dudov svilac na starinski način brinući se o provided the Dubrovnik Museums with an očuvanju jedinstvenoga konavoskog veza. outstanding jewellery and furniture collection jerni pratitelj i promicatelj U pitoresknu dubrovačku okolicu, Konavle, donated by our recently departed fellow- dubrovačke baštine i tradicije odvest će Vas i naš put prema iznimnoj citizen, art historian and conservationist Pati V- dvojezični magazin TZ grada građevini, Sokol gradu, koji je obnovljen, i niti Veramenta. Thanks to the generosity of an Dubrovnika Welcome to Dubrovnik od ove jednoga posjetitelja ne ostavlja ravnodušnim. anonymous donor, the Kaboga Summer godine bit će objavljivan jednom godišnje. Prepoznatljivi hrvatski modni dodatak, Residence in Rijeka Dubrovačka has been Unatoč neiscrpnosti tema iz našega naslijeđa muška kravata, u Dubrovniku uskoro dobija renovated, while Mr. Ivo Felner - the last i suvremenosti, obogaćeno izdanje obuhvaćat i svoj Muzej koji će pričati priču o hrvatskim descendant of a respected aristocratic family, će najbolje od najboljeg na razini godine, kao vojnicima i njihovim maramama oko vrata. doctor of chemistry and Dubrovnik citizen i sve značajne obljetnice i slavlja Dubrovnika, Pročitajte i priču o vitalnom dubrovačkom with a Swiss address - was entrusted with the njegovih predaka i ljudi koji su zbog svojih hotelskom stogodišnjaku, Hotelu Lapad, u entire renovation project. Readers will have dostignuća zaslužili biti ovjekovječeni u kojega se njegovi gosti uvijek vraćaju, kao i o the opportunity to learn about the works njemu. dubrovačkim delicijama koje su se blagovale u and importance of the composers Antun Dubrovnik živi punim turističkim životom, određene blagdane. and Luka Sorkočević, and the painter Marko najprepoznatljiviji hrvatski turistički Još je tu zanimljivog štiva. Uživajte i Murat. The City of Dubrovnik is under the brend svake godine iznova dokazuje svoju otkrivajte Grad u kojega ste došli, i koji će Vas heavenly protection of its patron saint, St atraktivnost i svevremenost UNESCO mamiti na povratak. U njemu je zasigurno Blaise, whose day is celebrated on 3 February. -ve zaštićene baštine koju smo naslijedili sakrivena i neka priča samo za vas. Our photographs show the splendour of the i koja je temelj naše turističke ponude. festival as a procession moves through the Upravo je naslijeđe temelj sadržaja i ovog Dear guests and readers streets of the City with the saint’s devotees broja “Welcome-a” kojeg držite u rukama carrying banners while dressed in beautiful i u kojemu ćete se moći upoznati s manje of the Welcome to folk costumes from the surrounding area. The znanim, a vrijednim pričama zbog kojih Dubrovnik magazine, painter Antonia Rusković Radonić will tell je Dubrovnik bio i ostat će jedinstven us a story about the tradition of producing hrvatski Grad. Puno je gradova, a samo rom this year onwards, the Dubrovnik silk thread, used for the embroidery on se jedan piše velikim početnim slovom. U Tourist Board’s bilingual Welcome the women’s folk costume of Konavle. tom velikom G saželo se čitavo urbano, Fto Dubrovnik magazine, the faithful The painter is still actively involved in the kulturno, umjetničko, profinjeno biće follower and promoter of Dubrovnik’s breeding of silkworm and in the preservation Dubrovnika. U ovom broju posebna je pažnja heritage and tradition, will be published of the exquisite Konavle embroidery. Our usmjerena prema jednom dubrovačkom annually. In spite of an abundance of themes journey will take you to the picturesque area “fenomenu” koji je ponovno pokazao svoje from both our past and present, this extended of Konavle towards a spectacular structure, lice u najljepšem obliku - dobrotvorstvu. edition will cover the major events taking Sokol Grad, a recently renovated fort which Lijepa dubrovačka tradicija poklanjanja svog place in the current year, as well as all will leave few visitors indifferent. Croatia’s naslijeđa za dobrobit šire zajednice kojom Dubrovnik’s anniversaries and celebrations, recognisable accessory, the man’s tie, will soon se iskazuje ljubav i privrženost Gradu, including some of its past citizens and people be given its own museum, which will tell the obogatila je fundus Dubrovačkih muzeja who deserve to be immortalized for their story of Croatian soldiers who used to wear a iznimnom zbirkom nakita i namještaja achievements. special kind of scarf around their necks. You nedavno preminule naše sugrađanke, As Croatia’s most recognisable tourist brand, will also have the chance to read the story of povjesničarke umjetnosti i konzervatorice Dubrovnik lives a vibrant tourist life, proving a sprightly centenarian, Dubrovnik’s Lapad Pati Veramenta. Dobrotvorstvom anonimnog each year how attractive and up-to-date its Hotel, whose guests always return, as well as donatora obnovljen je Ljetnikovac Kaboga UNESCO-protected heritage is, and is the a story about the Dubrovnik delicacies that u Rijeci dubrovačkoj, a čitav projekt je very foundation on which our tourist offer is used to be eaten on different feast days. povjeren posljednjem potomku ugledne based. This issue includes other interesting texts. vlastelinske obitelji gosparu Ivu Felneru, It is this very heritage that we choose to be Enjoy reading them, and explore the City dr. kemije, Dubrovčaninu sa švicarskom the backbone of this issue’s contents. The that will always tempt you to come back. It’s adresom. Čitatelji će se ovoga puta moći Welcome that you are holding in your hands definitely hiding a story meant just for you.

4 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. Sadržaj / Contents Nakladnik / Publisher:

Zašto volim Dubrovnik Stoljeće Hotela Lapad Why I Love Dubrovnik The Centenary of The Lapad Hotel Dr.Ivo Felner Napisao / By: Nikola Šubić ...... 40 Tel. / Phone: +385(0)20/323-887 323-889, 323-907 Napisala / By: Lidija Crnčević ...... 6 Fax: +385(0)/323-725 Sokol Grad u Konavlima www.tzdubrovnik.hr Ljetnikovac na Batahovini Sokol Grad (Falcon City) in Konavle [email protected] Summer Residence at Batahovina Napisala / By: Maja Nodari ...... 44 Sunakladnik / Co-Publisher: Bunić Kaboga Alfa-2 SVILA U KONAVLIMA Napisala / By: Kate Bagoje ...... 10 SILK IN KONAVLE tel. +385 20 418 453 fax. + 385 20 418 454 Napisala / By: Lidija Crnčević...... 46 e-mail: [email protected] DOBROTVORNOST web: www.alfa-2.hr U DUBROVNIKU Ribanje i ribarsko prigovaranje Glavna urednica / Editor-in-chief: PHILANTHROPY IN Jelka Tepšić Fishing and Fishermen’s Gripes DUBROVNIK Zamjenica urednice / Assistant Editor: Napisala / By: Maja Nodari...... 14 Napisala / By: Sandra Lacković ...... 50 Lidija Crnčević

Uredničko vijeće / Editorial Board: BONDIN TEATAR Dubrovačka gastronomija Tilda Bogdanović, Pave Brailo, THE BONDA THEATRE od tradicije do suvremenosti Aida Cvjetković, Marin Ivanović Miho Katičić, Lukša Lucianović, Napisao / By: Hrvoje Ivanković ...... 18 Dubrovnik Gastronomy from Tradition to the Present Day Ðuro Market, Damir Račić Lektori / Proofreaders: Dubrovački plemići i glazbenici Napisao / By: Josip Žuvela ...... 54 Mirjana Kaznačić Diplomats and Composers Linda Peričević LUKA I ANTUN DUBROVAČKI KOMINI Prijevodi / Translations: Dubravka Knežević SORKOČEVIĆ DUBROVNIK’S OLD-STYLE Napisala / By: Vjera Katalinić ...... 24 KITCHENS Oblikovanje i grafička priprema / Design and pre-press: Napisala / By: Božica Ðurđević ...... 60 m&m, Dubrovnik Dubrovački slikar - lirik Fotografije / Photography: A Dubrovnik Painter and Poet Poznati dubrovački liker / MIHO SKVRCE CROPIX (Tonči Plazibat) MARKO MURAT A Well-Known Dubrovnik Liqueur Ivan Ivičević Bakulić, Napisao / By: Ivan Vigjen ...... 28 ROZOLIN Vedran Jerinić Foto-arhiva / Photo-archives: Napisala / By: Silva Kapurso ...... 64 Jedinstvena zimska svečanost Dubrovnika TZ Grada Du­brovnika Dubrovnik Tourist Board Unique Dubrovnik winter celebration Kazališta Marina Držića Dubrovnik kao filmska scena Marin Držić Theatre FESTA SV. VLAHA Dubrovnik as a Film Setting FESTIVAL OF ST BLAISE Naklada / Printing run: ...... 68 9.000 ...... 32 Tisak / Print: Muzej kravate u Dubrovniku DOGAÐANJA U DUBROVNIKU Alfa-2 A Cravat (tie) Museum in the DUBROVNIK EVENTS 2014

Homeland of the Cravat ...... 71 Napisala / By: Maja Rilović Koprivec ...... 34

Između istine i legende / Between truth and legend Naslovnica: RIKARD LAVLJEG SRCA Kazalište Marina Držića RICHARD THE LIONHEART Cover photo: Marin Držić Theatre Napisao / By: Damir Račić ...... 36

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 5 Zašto volim Dubrovnik

Napisala Lidija Crnčević

ubrovnik je grad mojih predaka i moj grad. On je Dsimbol slobode i kulture, i iako je okružen zidinama, Dubrovnik je otvoren prema svijetu - takav je uvijek bio i takav mora ostati. Pri tome moramo biti svjesni, da ne živimo u prošlosti, ali živimo od prošlosti usmjereni prema budućnosti – riječi su gospodina Iva Felnera, posljednjeg potomka dubrovačke vlastelinske obitelji Kaboga i predstavnika Fondacije Batahovina koja je s 3 milijuna eura donacije obnovila i u ljeto 2013. otvorila ljetnikovac njegovih predaka, iz 16. stoljeća, u Rijeci dubrovačkoj. Donatorova želja je bila da ostane anoniman, a da Ljetnikovac Kaboga u obnovljenom ruhu postane kulturno- umjetnički centar koji će širom otvoriti vrata mladim dubrovačkim glazbenicima i drugim umjetnicima. Obnova i uređenje Ljetnikovca Kaboga trajala je deset godina i, da gospodin Felner nije bio toliko uporan i vođen silinom emocija koje je u njemu budio nekadašnji dom u kojemu je odrastao, sve bi ostalo samo na jednoj lijepoj želji i plemenitoj nakani. Bilo je na desetogodišnjem putu obnove ljetnikovca puno prepreka, od onih administrativnih, do stjecanja povjerenja da netko hoće uložiti značajan novac u baštinu, bez traženja ikakvih protuusluga. Sve te poteškoće su pale u drugi plan i zaborav u trenutku kada je Ljetnikovac zablistao u svojoj obnovljenoj kamenoj ljepoti. Gospodin Felner je dr. kemije, Hrvat sa švicarskom adresom i državljanstvom stečenim nakon diplome i doktorata u Zürichu, čovjek koji, pričajući o projektu kojega se prihvatio na zamolbu donatora, pokazuje svu svoju skromnost i samozatajnost, osobine profinjenog dubrovačkog sklada i tradicije dubrovačkog dobročinstva koja se ne rukovodi privatnim interesom. Stoga gospodin Felner stalno ističe:

- Financijska sredstva su donirana od jedne obitelji, koja je emocionalno usko vezana uz Dubrovnik. Moja funkcija je bila organizirati, voditi i realizirati projekt restauracije Ljetnikovca uz suradnju mnogih prijatelja i stručnih suradnika, što

6 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. PotomakPotomak dubrovačkedubrovačke vlastele,vlastele, uu misijimisiji obnoveobnove ljetnikovcaljetnikovca iz 16. stoljeća

Dr.Dr.IvoIvo FelnerFelner

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 7 Why I Love Dubrovnik

BY Lidija Crnčević je bio velik izazov i nije bilo baš Dr.Dr.Ivo jednostavno. U Njemačkoj se često Ivo koristi poslovica “Geben macht seliger als nehmen”, odnosno “Davati je ljepše nego uzimati” (zapravo je to Felner citat iz Biblije). Nije važno, koliko se Felner daruje, važna je činjenica da se od srca daruje sa željom da obdareni bude a descendant of a Dubrovnik sretan. Onda je i darovatelj sretan. Rezultat poduhvata restauracije aristocratic family, on the mission of Ljetnikovca Bunić-Kaboga pruža Donatoru i meni veliko zadovoljstvo i osjećaj sreće, jer smo očigledno učinili restoring a 16th century summer residence nešto dobro, a i neočekivano. Sad je na redu Zajednica da pokaže kako će donor’s wish was to remain anonymous, and not at all simple. In Germany they održavati i koristiti Ljetnikovac. and for the newly restored Kaboga often use the proverb “Geben macht Zbog svog velikog doprinosa u summer residence to become a cultural seliger als nehmen”, i.e., “It is more obnovi Ljetnikovca Bunić - Kaboga and artistic centre with its doors wide blessed to give than to receive” (which kao arhitektonskog bisera nacionalne open to Dubrovnik’s young musicians is actually a quotation from the Bible). baštine, dr. Felnera je hrvatski and other artists. The renovation and It doesn’t matter how much one gives. predsjednik Ivo Josipović odlikovao furnishing of the Kaboga summer The important fact is for one to give Redom Danice hrvatske s likom residence took about ten years, and – from the heart, wishing happiness to Marka Marulića. Felner je dobitnik i had Mr. Felner not been so persistent the one who receives. This in return Nagrade Grada Dubrovnika, kojom and inspired by the overwhelming makes the donor happy. The results of mu je iskazana zahvalnost za sve što emotions that his childhood home the restoration of the Bunić-Kaboga je učinio za očuvanje spomeničke aroused in him, everything would have Summer Residence fill both the donor baštine, identifikacijskog pečata remained merely a fine wish and a noble and me with great pleasure and nekadašnje slavne Republike. intention. In the process of the ten year happiness, because it is obvious that we restoration of the summer residence, have done something good, but also - Nagrada Grada Dubrovnika je velika čast i priznanje, a istovremeno there were many obstacles – from unexpected. It is now the community’s i potvrda da je naša osnovna ideja administrative ones to earning the trust turn to show how it will maintain and dobrotvorne donacije na širokoj razini of those wishing to invest a significant use the summer residence. Croatia’s prihvaćena, i da će možda potaknuti amount of money in the heritage, president Ivo Josipović presented Dr. i druge potencijalne donatore. without asking anything in return. Felner with the Danica Hrvatska Medal Neizmjerno sam zahvalan svima All the difficulties, however, were put of the Marko Marulić Order for his koji su omogućili dodijeljenu mi aside and forgotten the moment the huge contribution in the renovation of Nagradu, motivirajući me time da, summer residence shone in its renewed the Bunić - Kaboga Summer Residence, u okviru mogućnosti, nastavim svoju stone beauty. Mr. Felner is a doctor of an architectural gem of the national donatorsku misiju. chemistry, a Croat with a Swiss address heritage. Dr. Felner also holds the City and citizenship, which he acquired after of Dubrovnik Award, presented to him - ubrovnik is the city of my obtaining his degree and doctorate in in a token of appreciation for everything ancestors and my own city. Zurich. Talking about the project he he has done for the preservation of DIt is a symbol of undertook at the donor’s request, he the historic buildings heritage, the freedom and culture. Although shows his own modesty and reticence, trademark of the one-time famous encompassed by walls, Dubrovnik is traits characteristic of the refined Dubrovnik Republic. open to the world – always has been harmony and tradition of benefaction and has to remain so. In view of this, uninfluenced by private interest for - As well as a great honour and we have to be aware that we are not which Dubrovnik is renowned. That is acknowledgement, the City of living in the past, but are living from why Mr. Felner constantly stresses the Dubrovnik Award is at the same time the past heading towards the future – following: proof that our basic idea on donations says Mr. Ivo Felner, the last descendant has been widely accepted, and may of the Dubrovnik Kaboga aristocratic - The funds have been donated by a also encourage other potential donors. family and a representative of the family who have close emotional ties I am immensely grateful to all Batahovina Foundation which donated with Dubrovnik. My task was to those responsible for presenting me 3 million Euros for the renovation of organise, oversee and realise the with this award, motivating me to his ancestors’ 16th century summer summer residence renovation project continue my donor mission – within residence in Rijeka Dubrovačka, which with the aid of many friends and the realms of possibility. was opened in the summer of 2013. The experts, which was a huge challenge

8 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014.

Ljetnikovac na Batahovini Bunić Kaboga idejama humanizma u 15. st. nastaju i novi arhitektonski Sprostori, pa tako i ljetnikovci, kao odraz privrednog i političkog uspona Dubrovačke Republike koja baš u 16. st. doživljava svoj procvat. Ljetnikovci i ladanjski kompleksi se grade bez oponašanja ili tuđih graditeljskih uzora. Tu se okupljaju domaći graditelji i kipari koji razvijaju domaće klesarske radionice stvarajući vlastita rješenja u slobodnom prostoru izvan samog stiješnjenog tkiva Grada. U tim prostorima se nastavljaju gradski život i običaji njihovih vlasnika, dubrovačkih plemićkih obitelji.

10 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. ENO KUTAK NapisalaNapisala Boži cKatea Đur Bagojeđević

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 11 Ljetnikovac Miha Junijeva Bunića, The Bunić Kaboga Summer Residence at Batahovina kasnije i obitelji Kabužić, a danas pod imenom Bunić Kaboga, sagrađen na Batahovini u Rijeci dubrovačkoj, sigurno je jedan od najljepših primjera gotičko-renesansnog stila u dubrovačkoj ladanjskoj arhitekturi. Građen je oko 1520. godine i značajan je po svom th century L-tlocrtu kompozicije cjeline, te jasnoj humanist podjeli po horizontali. Ovaj ljetnikovac 15ideas also uz glavnu ladanjsku kuću ima trijem, influenced the field of lođu, terasu pred pročeljem, kapelicu i architecture - including orsan. Ti su dijelovi ljetnikovca građeni the summer residences - u mješovitom gotičko-renesansnom reflecting the economic stilu, što je osobitost dubrovačke and political rise of the arhitekture vještog spajanja ovih dvaju Dubrovnik Republic, stilova na istoj građevini. which flourished in mali vrtni prostor između strme stijene the 16th century. Summer residences Pred prizemlje ljetnikovca prislonjen je i mora. and country estates were built without trijem čiji su stupovi, lukovi i kapiteli Orsan u ovoj ladanjskoj cjelini zauzima, imitating or using anyone else’s oblikovani u renesansnom stilu. također, važno mjesto. Smješten u architectural design. Dubrovnik was the place where local builders and Lođa je iznad, prigrađena osnovnom prizemlju ispod lođe, što zajedno sculptors gathered, establishing local volumenu ladanjske kuće kao gotička s položajem ladanjske kuće tvori stone-mason’s workshops and creating karakteristika i pročeljem se otvara karakterističan L-tlocrt u kompoziciji their own designs in the countryside prema Ombli, a začeljem prema cjeline, služio je kao spremište za barke outside the confined area of the City. stražnjem vrtu. Njezini su tordirani kojima bi vlasnici doplovili iz Grada na It is within these areas that the estate stupovi dosta rijetki u dubrovačkoj imanje kao i za smještaj pribora s kojim owners, the Dubrovnik aristocratic arhitekturi, ali su već bili poznati duž su išli u ribolov. families, continued with their city life naše obale u romaničkom i kasno- Kao i sve veće ladanjske cjeline i ovaj and customs. gotičkom stilu, pa se na lođi Ljetnikovca ljetnikovac ima svoju kapelicu koja Bunić Kaboga pojavljuju kao zadnji je služila vlasniku i njegovoj obitelji. The summer residence of Miho Junijev ostaci gotike. Kapiteli su isti kao i Sagradio ju je Petar Andrijić 1538. Bunić and later of the Kabužić family na renesansnom trijemu u prizemlju, godine na terasi do lođe kao intimni – known nowadays as Bunić Kaboga, isklesani u klasičnom antičkom prostor njezinih vlasnika. Okrenuta je built at Batahovina in the Rijeka kompozitnom obliku i vrlo je vjerojatno pročeljem prema Ombli i odlikuje se Dubrovačka district – is undoubtedly da su nastali u klesarskoj radionici bogatom arhitektonskom dekoracijom. one of the finest examples of Gothic- Andrijića. Kapelica je jednobrodna, pravokutna, Renaissance style in Dubrovnik Pojava trijema i lođe češća je u prvoj natkrivena bačvastim svodom, a nad rural architecture. Built in 1520, the polovici 16. st. kad je volumen ladanjske središnjim dijelom izdiže se mala summer residence is characterized by kuće još dosta zatvoren, pa se preko polukružna kupola kao obilježje its L-shaped layout and clear horizontal ovih poluotvorenih graditeljskih dijelova sakralnih objekata iz ranijih stoljeća. Uz division. In addition to the main ljetnikovca uspostavljala veza s vrtnim portal je poseban ukrasni detalj, bogato building, this summer residence has a prostorom i bližom okolinom. dekorirana kamena škropionica s nišom portico, a loggia, a terrace in front of u obliku školjke. the facade, a chapel and an orsan (boat Terasa Ljetnikovca Bunić Kaboga se shelter). These sections of the summer nalazi nad trijemom kao njegov pokrov Zajedno s glavnom ladanjskom kućom residence are built in a mixture of pred pročeljem ladanjske kuće otvorene svi ovi elementi Ljetnikovca Bunić Gothic and Renaissance styles, which is gotičkim monoforama i triforom u Kaboga ukazuju na to da je ovaj tip characteristic of Dubrovnik architecture. sredini. Na terasu se u trifori otvaraju dubrovačkog ljetnikovca jedinstven i u Namely, the architects of the time were vrata dvorane ljetnikovca pružajući europskim razmjerima. On, svakako, skilled at combining these two styles in pogled na Rijeku dubrovačku, čime se uz brojne dubrovačke ljetnikovce i a single building. uspostavlja veza s okolnim krajolikom. ladanjske kuće po svojoj veličini i Terasa se nastavlja ispred lođe i nad raskoši, kao i razigranom graditeljskom There is a portico with Renaissance orsanom, te sa strane i iza ljetnikovca, sklopu, ne zaostaje za istaknutim columns, arches and vaults in front of a sa svojom prostranošću nadomješta talijanskim vilama 15. i 16. stoljeća. the summer residence’s ground floor.

12 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. By Kate Bagoje The Bunić Kaboga Summer Residence at Batahovina Above it a Gothic loggia has been The Bunić Kaboga summer residence’s Like all large summer residences, this added to the main building, its front terrace is situated above the portico, one had its own chapel used by the facade facing the River Ombla and its covering it in front of the facade of owner and his family. It was built by rear to the back garden. The loggia’s the building with its Gothic monoforas Petar Andrijić in 1538, on the terrace torded columns are quite rare in (single lancet windows) and a trifora next to the loggia, as an intimate space Dubrovnik architecture. However, (three-lancet window) in the middle. In for the owners. Its front wall facing such columns were at that time already the trifora, the hall doors of the summer the River Ombla is characterized by well-known along our coast as elements residence open on to the terrace which rich architectural decoration. The of the Romanesque and late-Gothic overlooks the Rijeka Dubrovačka, rectangular one-nave chapel has a styles, thus appearing on the loggia of connecting it with the surrounding barrel-shaped ceiling, and its central the Bunić Kaboga summer residence landscape. The terrace continues in front part is topped by a small semicircular as the last remains of the Gothic style. of the loggia and above the orsan, along cupola characteristic of the sacral The capitals are the same as those on the side walls and behind the summer buildings from bygone centuries. Close the Renaissance portico on the ground residence, its spaciousness compensating to the portal stands a very elegant detail floor, carved in the classical Antique for the small area of garden located – the richly decorated stone font with a compositional style, and it is very likely between a steep rock and the sea. shell shaped niche. that they were made at the Andrijić stone-mason’s workshop. The orsan too occupies an important In addition to the main building, all place in the summer residence complex. these elements show that this type of Porticos and loggias were more often It is situated on the ground floor under Dubrovnik summer residence is also built in the first half of the 16th the loggia, which - together with the unique on a European scale. Along with century, when the summer residence summer residence’s location - forms numerous other Dubrovnik summer buildings had few openings, so these the characteristic L-shape layout of the residences and country houses, the half-open architectural units established complex. It was used as a shelter for Bunić Kaboga summer residence is in no a connection between the summer the boats with which the owners came way inferior to any well-known Italian residence building and the garden and from the City to their property, and as a 15th and 16th century villa, as far as its the surrounding areas. storeroom for fishing equipment. size, lavishness and playful architectural mastery are concerned.

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 13 Dobrotvornost u Dubrovniku

Tradicija darivanja svogasv ima

14 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. Napisala Maja Nodari

ozračju Feste svetoga Vlaha bila uvriježena praksa, Dubrovnik je 2014. godine Dubrovnik prednjačio u socijalnoj skrbi, osnivane Ui njegov kulturni prostor su brojne državne i crkvene zaklade za obogatila je impresivna i vrlo vrijedna javno dobro i javno uživanje. Mnogi su donacija gospođe Patricije Veramenta, se dobročinitelji upisali u dubrovačku koja je oporučno Dubrovačkim povijest, slijedeći primjer svoje Države, muzejima poklonila 28 predmeta ne po veličini donacija koje su dali, već primjenjene umjetnosti i tako iskazala, po snazi duha, snazi pripadnosti i ljubavi ne samo plemenitu gestu i dobrotu koju su osjećali prema Gradu. svoje duše, već je javnosti trajno stavila Patricija Veramenta (rođena 27.ožujka na uvid birane primjerke obiteljskog 1952. ovaj je svijet napustila 3. lipnja Tradicija darivanja svoga stilskog namještaja i nakita. 2013.) bila je vrsna povjesničarka Dubrovački muzeji su u znak umjetnosti, konzervatorica, cijelog svog zahvalnosti i poštovanja reagirali radnog i ljudskog vijeka posvećena izložbom Donacija Patricije Veramenta svojoj struci i profesiji, živeći uz u reprezentativnom prostoru Kneževa spomenike i za spomenike kao prava dvora, pa je postav izložbe podcrtao baštinica- jer je zavičajno naslijeđe bilo sv ima svaki od poklonjenih predmeta njezin izbor. Naučila je, i još više osjetila namještaja u razdoblju II. polovice u praksi, kako baštinik nije onaj kome 18. st. do bidermajera, s posebnim je naslijeđe dopalo slučajno, već onaj naglaskom na prelijepoj bidermajerskoj tko je baštinu izabrao. Pati, kako smo komodi – klecalu i raritetnoj sofi iz tog je zvali, bila je toga svjesna, pa njezinu razdoblja. Iznimnu pozornost izazvala velikodušnu ljudsku gestu upotpunjuje je zbirka etnografskog nakita izrađenog i ona profesionalna, jer su povijesničari u dubrovačkim zlatarskim radionicama umjetnosti po profesiji nasljednici. 19. st., tako gizdavi zlatni kolarin s U uvjetima destrukcije materije, križem, zlatni lanac lustrin, konavoske globalizacije svojstava i obilježja, verižice, rečini s: perlama, biserima ili odnosno dokidanja dragocjenih razlika zlatnim listovima duhana, udovički po kojima se prepoznajemo i po kojima rečini, te broševi s perlinima i iglom nas prepoznaju, u doba virtualizacije na srce. Takav poklon može dati samo postojanja, nasljeđivanje je središnji plemenita osoba, prava Dubrovkinja u problem suvremenoga svijeta. maniri svoje zavičajne tradicije, dajući svoje naslijeđe za druge. Takva gesta mnoge je možda i iznenadila, jer u ovom vremenu ravnodušnosti i sebičnosti, geste dobrotvornosti i plemenitosti nisu nešto svakodnevno, a nekmoli uobičajeno. U staro doba bilo je sasvim uobičajeno, o čemu svjedoče brojne oporuke, činiti stilski namještaj obitelji Veramenta izložen je u dobra djela, a Dubrovačka je Republika Kneževu Dvoru uvijek i svugdje štitila svoje građane, koji su to znali cijeniti i Domovini uzvratiti. Javna je dobrotvornost

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 15 Philanthropy in Dubrovnik uring the celebration of the and selfishness - charity and nobility Festival of St Blaise in 2014, are not seen every day and are far from DDubrovnik and its cultural being usual. In olden days, however, it milieu were enriched by an impressive was quite customary to do good deeds, and highly valuable donation by Mrs as attested by numerous wills. On the Patricija Veramenta. In her will, she other hand, the Dubrovnik Republic donated 28 applied art objects to the always used to protect its subjects Dubrovnik Museums. Thus she not everywhere, who appreciated this and only made a noble gesture revealing knew how to reciprocate. Public charity the kindness of her soul, but also made was a customary practice. Dubrovnik selected items of period furniture and was among the first to introduce social family welfare and establish numerous state jewellery and church foundations for public good from her and use. Dubrovnik’s history abounds home with benefactors, who followed the available to example of their state, not with regard the public on to the amount of their donations, but a permanent with regard to the strength of their basis. spirit, the powerful feeling of belonging and love they felt for their City. In token of their gratitude and The tradition of donating one’s possessions respect, the Dubrovnik Museums Patricija Veramenta (born on 27 March organised an exhibition entitled 1952, departed this world on 3 June Patricija Veramenta’s Donation in the 2013) was an outstanding art historian representative premises of the Rector’s and conservationist, who dedicated Palace, carefully cataloguing each of her entire life to her profession, living the donated furniture items dating - both alongside and for - historic from the second half of the 18th monuments as a true custodian, because century to the Biedermeier period, her homeland’s heritage was her own particularly accentuating the beautiful choice. In practice, she learned, but was Biedermeier commode – prayer stool also convinced, that the heir is not one and a rare sofa from the same period. who got an inheritance by chance, Wide public interest was aroused by but one who chose it. Pati, as we the collection of ethnographic jewellery nicknamed her, was aware of this, so her made in Dubrovnik’s jeweller’s shops generous human gesture complemented in the 19th century, including an her professional one, because art exquisite gold necklace with a cross, historians are heirs by the nature a lustrin gold chain, Konavle verižice of their profession. At a time when gold earrings, earrings with pearls material things are being destroyed, and golden tobacco leaves, widows’ when differentiating attributes and earrings, as well as brooches with small characteristics are globalized, when the pearls and heart-shaped pins. Such a precious differences which enable us to gift could only be donated by a noble recognise ourselves and by which others person, a true Dubrovnik lady, following recognise us are denied, and when her homeland’s tradition of bestowing existence becomes virtualized, heritage her inheritance on others.This gesture becomes a major problem in the modern probably surprised many people, world. because - in this age of indifference

16 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. By Maja Nodari

The tradition of donating one’sto thepossessions public

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 17 Bondin teatar skoro će se navršiti 150 Augusteu Marmontu, koji je baš u godina od otvaranja Bondinog to vrijeme dobio titulu vojvode od Ukazališta, prve i do danas Dubrovnika (Duc de Raguse). Godine jedine namjenski podignute kazališne 1817. Vojvodsko kazalište izgorjelo je u zgrade u Dubrovniku. Kazalište je požaru koji je poharao veći dio građevina izgrađeno u neposrednoj blizini Kneževa smještenih između gradskog dvora, na južnom krilu neorenesansnog Zzvonika i Kneževa dvora, a kazališni građevinskog sklopa čiji jedan dio život Dubrovnika preselio se u palaču zauzima zgrada Grada Dubrovnika s plemićke obitelji Gozze, na uglu popularnom Gradskom kavanom u današnje Zuzerine ulice i Ulice Miha prizemlju. Na tom prostoru, s jedne Pracata. To je kazalište, međutim, strane okrenutim prema staroj gradskoj bilo odveć skučeno i tehnički loše luci, nekada se nalazio složeni kompleks opremljeno, pa su već u ranoj fazi zgrada s arsenalom za popravak njegova djelovanja počela maštanja o i spremanje brodova, dvoranama izgradnji kazališta dostojnog bogate Velikoga vijeća i Senata Dubrovačke dubrovačke kazališne tradicije. Republike te fontikom i žitnicom, a uz Paradoksalna je pritom činjenica da je njega su vezana i neka ranija razdoblja u prilog tim maštanjima išla odluka s dubrovačke kazališne povijesti. U kojom su se Dubrovčani teško mirili: jednom dijelu Orsana (dubrovački naziv austrougarske vlasti odlučile su se, za arsenal) 1682. uređena je kazališna naime, za rušenje požarom oštećenih dvorana u kojoj su sve do 1806. građevina između Zvonika i Kneževa godine prikazivane predstave domaćih dvora na čijem su jednom dijelu naumile diletanata i talijanskih putujućih podignuti novu zgradu Općine, dok družina. Francuske okupacijske vlasti su drugi dio bile spremne ustupiti tada su pretvorile stari Orsan u vojnu za podizanje kazališta. Tako je već pekarnicu i skladište, no uskoro je, 1841. godine izrađen projekt njegove po naredbi Napoleonova generala izgradnje, no san je počeo dobijati Marmonta, u istom građevinskom konkretna obličja tek dvadesetak godina sklopu uređeno novo kazalište, sjajnije kasnije zahvaljujući potomku stare i funkcionalnije od prethodnoga. Bilo dubrovačke plemićke obitelji Luku je smješteno u prostor nekadašnje Bondi. Okončavši sve pripreme za Vijećnice koja je ukidanjem Dubrovačke podizanje kazališne zgrade on je 1862. Republike izgubila svoju izvornu sastavio i tiskao program izgradnje funkciju, a nazvano je Vojvodskim s pozivom sugrađanima za novčanu kazalištem (Teatro ducale), u čast pomoć. Njihov odaziv bio je više nego

18 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. Napisao Hrvoje Ivanković

B ndin teatar - srce kazališnog Dubrovnika već 150 godina

skroman, no Bonda ipak nije odustao kao središnje mjesto dubrovačkoga od svoje namjere. Uloživši znatna kazališnog života izvan ljetne vlastita sredstva godine 1863. započeo sezone. U međuvremenu je doživio je s radovima na izgradnji kazališta nekoliko obnova, preinaka i tehničkih prema projektu splitskog arhitekta osuvremenjivanja (nakon temeljite Emila Vecchiettija. Nepune dvije godine obnove 1988. povezan je sa susjednom kasnije Dubrovčani su dobili kazalište zgradom u kojoj je dobio komornu neobarokne unutrašnjosti s tipičnom pozornicu nazvanu Teatar Bursa), a u salom alla italiana u kojoj su uz nekoliko navrata ukrašen je i novim neveliku, portalom uokvirenu pozornicu dekorativnim elementima. Najvažniji izgrađena tri kata loža i parter za više od među njima stropna je freska Krunjenje 400 gledatelja. dvostruko na nebu i zemlji koju je 1901. Novo kazalište otvoreno je 1. siječnja izradio veliki hrvatski slikar Vlaho 1865. s operom Giuseppea Verdija Bukovac, rođen 1855. u Cavtatu kao Ernani, a izvela ju je talijanska družina Biagio Faggioni. pod vodstvom Giullia Sanguinazzija, ali Do početka Prvoga svjetskog rata je orkestar bio sastavljen od domaćih u Bondinom teatru uglavnom su muzičara koje je uvježbao F. Manzato, nastupale talijanske kazališne družine lokalni učitelj glazbe. Josip Bersa, izvodeći raznolik dramski, operni i kroničar dubrovačkog 19. stoljeća, operetni repertoar, a među dvadesetak nastupale i dubrovačke amaterske opisao je atmosferu tog događaja: gostovanja domaćih putujućih družina skupine poput Hrvatske diletantske „Bondu je te večeri pratila u teatar izdvaja se nastup Hrvatskog primorskog pozorišne družine koja je 1903. izvela bakljada, pljuštali su sa gornjeg reda kazališta u kojem su kao gosti nastupali Ekvinocijo Iva Vojnovića. U postavljanu loža prigodni soneti, gospođice su velikani s tadašnje zagrebačke i tog amblematskog djela dubrovačkoga ga obasipale cvijećem, a on pozivao beogradske pozornice poput Marije repertoara, ali i moderne hrvatske drame publiku, da klikne caru: ‘Živio!’“ „Luko Ružičke Strozzi, Mile Dimitrijević, uopće, vođi družine, Iliji Nardelliju, Bonda bio je sretan, presretan“, zapisao Andrije Fijana i Ljube Stanojevića. Puno pomagao je i sam autor, a u predstavi je puno godina kasnije dubrovački rjeđe dolazila su hrvatska profesionalna je, glumeći sama sebe, nastupio i književnik Ernest Katić. “Ostvario je san kazališta. Nakon euforično dočekanog legendarni dubrovački oriđino Vlaho neizvediv za ondašnje prilike, ali njegovo Hrvatskog dramatičnog društva iz Slijepi. imanje bilo je rastepeno. Lijepi i ukusni Zagreba, koje je 1875. izvelo 17 Osim za kazališne predstave Bondin teatar… uvalio ga je u teške dugove, predstava, tek u razdoblju između 1909. teatar od samog je početka djelovanja tako da je u siromaštvu, ali uvijek kao i 1914. u nekoliko su navrata gostovali služio i kao pozornica za brojne druge vedri i otmjeni gospar, umro dana 15. drama i opera nacionalnih kazališta iz priredbe, od vokalnih i instrumentalnih oktobra 1878. u Dubrovniku.“ Zagreba i Osijeka. U istom razdoblju koncerata te iluzionističkih nastupa do Bondin teatar i danas je u funkciji u Bondinom teatru povremeno su javnih balova, karnevalskih priredbi,

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 19 akademija i prigodnih skupova. No, od komediografa Marina Držića (1508.- vrhunskim redateljima u nekim je 1906., kada u Bondinom teatru gostuje 1567.). Prethodno je (1943.-1944.) u razdobljima (posebno u prvoj polovici kinematograf Gigante, Dubrovčani njemu djelovalo i Hrvatsko državno 1970-ih) bilo svrstavano među najbolja su u svoj Talijin hram najčešće odlazili kazalište za Primorje, preseljeno iz kazališta u Hrvatskoj. Bez obzira na kako bi gledali filmove. Isprva su to bili Splita, nakon što su mu talijanske uspone i padove, zahvaljujući Kazalištu programi putujućih kinematografa, a od okupacijske vlasti zabranile djelovanje, Marina Držića, Bondin teatar trajno 1910. Kazalište se često iznajmljivalo no tek je s ansamblom oformljenim je ostao epicentar kulturnog života u vlasnicima stalnih kinematografa. 1945. Dubrovnik dobio svoje vlastito Dubrovniku, baš kao što je umnogome, Koliko je to uzrujavalo dio javnosti profesionalno kazalište. Tijekom sedam zahvaljujući i gosparu Luku Bondi, najbolje pokazuje tekst objavljen 1911. desetljeća postojanja Kazalište Marina Dubrovnik ostao nezaobilazna točka na u lokalnim novinama, a u kojem je Držića igralo je žanrovski raznolik hrvatskom kazališnom zemljovidu. između ostaloga zapisano: „Da je repertoar, s posebnim naglaskom na osnivačima našega teatra neko i u šali predstave dubrovačkog i mediteranskog kazao da će ga i ta sudbina zateći da po životnog miljea, a zahvaljujući dobrom čitave sezone u njem radi kinematograf, glumačkom ansamblu i suradnji s ne bi bili nimalo oklijevali da mu čak dinamite postave, pa neka ide u zrak!“ U razdoblju između dva svjetska rata u Bondin teatar više nisu navraćale talijanske družine, no „ton-kino“ sasvim se udomaćilo, a uz česte predstave dubrovačkih amaterskih družina (između 1923. i 1940. uprizorile su stotinjak naslova), svoje koncerte u Bondinom teatru povremeno je održavala i novoformirana Dubrovačka filharmonija. Kada je o kazališnim gostovanjima riječ, uz nastupe profesionalnih ansambala iz Zagreba, Splita, Osijeka, Sarajeva i Cetinja posebnu pozornost izazvao je dolazak tzv. disidentske grupe slavnog Moskovskog hudožestvenog teatra 1924. godine. Svoj trenutak svjetske slave Bondin teatar imao je u svibnju 1933. kada su se u njemu održavale sjednice 11. Međunarodnog kongresa PEN klubova, zapamćene po oštrom sukobu ideološki suprotstavljenih strana, a koji je završio jednom od prvih javnih međunarodnih osuda nacizma. Tom prigodom u Bondinom teatru našla su se mnoga velika imena svjetske književnosti, od predsjedavajućeg Herberta Georga Wellsa, prognanog njemačkog pisca Ernsta Tollera i oca talijanskog futurizma Filippa Tommasa Marinettija do Felixa Saltena, Julesa Romainsa i Schaloma Ascha. Po završetku Drugoga svjetskog rata Bondin teatar u potpunosti je predan svojoj izvornoj funkciji budući je postao stalnim domom novoosnovanog Narodnog kazališta koje od 1967. nosi ime velikog dubrovačkog

20 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. By Hrvoje Ivanković

The Bonda Theatre – the heart of Dubrovnik theatre for 150 years

lmost 150 years have passed since the opening of the ABonda Theatre, the first and only purpose-built theatre building in Dubrovnik up to now. The theatre was built in close proximity to the Rector’s Palace, in the southern wing of a neo- Renaissance complex of buildings, which also includes the City Hall and the popular City Café on the ground floor. Facing the old harbour on one side, this area once housed a complex of buildings with an arsenal for repairing and sheltering ships, the Dubrovnik Republic’s Major Council and Senate Halls, a fontico and a granary.

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 21 Street and Miho Pracat Street. However, rows of theatre boxes. Young ladies this theatre was too small and had poor showered him with flowers, and he technical equipment, so that already encouraged the audience to hail ‘Long in its initial phase people began to live the emperor!’.» «Luko Bonda was phantasize about the construction of happy, more than happy» - wrote the a new theatre worthy of Dubrovnik’s Dubrovnik writer Ernest Katić many rich theatrical tradition. Paradoxically, years later. «In the circumstances of the fact was that these phantasies were the time, he made an impossible dream favoured by a decision which the people come true, but spent his whole fortune. of Dubrovnik were reluctant to accept: The beautiful and elegant theatre the Austrian authorities decided to plunged him into debt, and thus he pull down the burned-down buildings died in Dubrovnik as a poor, but always between the Bell-tower and the Rector’s cheerful and elegant, gentleman on 15 Palace, in one of whose sections they October 1878.» intended to construct a new City Hall, and were willing to allow the second Nowadays, Bonda’s theatre is still section to be the location of a new operating as the heart of Dubrovnik theatre. The design for the theatre theatrical life outside the summer was ready in 1841, but construction season. In the meantime, it has been work only began about twenty years renovated, adapted and technically later thanks to a descendant of an updated several times (after a thorough old Dubrovnik aristocratic family, renovation in 1988, it was connected Luko Bonda. Having completed all with the adjoining building which the preparations for the construction now houses a chamber stage called Some earlier periods of Dubrovnik’s of the theatre building, he made and the Bursa Theatre), and adorned with theatrical history are connected with printed a construction plan in 1862, new decorative elements. The most this complex as well. asking for financial support from his important of these is the ceiling fresco One part of the Orsan (the Dubrovnik fellow-citizens. The support was less entitled A Double Coronation on Heaven name for an arsenal) was adapted into a than modest, but Bonda did not give and Earth made in 1901 by the great theatre in 1682, in which local amateur up on his plan. In 1863, investing Croatian painter Vlaho Bukovac, born theatrical groups and Italian travelling significant funds of his own, he began in 1855 in Cavtat, as Biagio Faggioni. theatre companies performed till 1806. construction work using the design of This is when occupying French troops Emil Vecchietti, an architect from Split. Until the beginning of World War I, turned the old Orsan into a military Less than two years later, the residents the theatre played host to mostly Italian bakery and storehouse. Shortly after of Dubrovnik got a theatre with a neo- theatre companies which performed that, however, upon the order of Baroque interior with a typical Italian- different theatre, opera and operetta Napoleon’s General Marmont, a new, style hall (alla italiana). Equipped with a repertoires. Out of some twenty more elegant and functional theatre small stage framed by a portal, the hall guest performances by local travelling was opened within the same complex consisted of three stories with boxes and companies, one worth mentioning is of buildings. Located in the premises a parterre fit to accommodate more than the Croatian Coastal Theatre featuring of the former City Hall - which lost its 400 visitors. stars of Zagreb and Belgrade theatres original function after the abolition of of the time including Marija Ružička the Dubrovnik Republic - the theatre The new theatre was opened on 1 Strozzi, Mila Dimitrijević, Andrija was named the Ducal Theatre (Teatro January 1865 with the Giuseppe Verdi Fijan and Ljuba Stanojević. Professional ducale) honouring Auguste Marmont, opera Ernani performed by an Italian Croatian theatre companies visited who was at that particular time granted opera company directed by Giullio Dubrovnik less often; after the warmly the title Duke of Dubrovnik (Duc de Sanguinazzi, while the orchestra received Croatian Dramatic Society of Raguse). In 1817, the Ducal Theatre consisted of local musicians, rehearsed Zagreb, which gave 17 performances burned down in a fire which consumed by the local music teacher F. Manzato. in 1875, it was only in the period the majority of the buildings located Josip Bersa, Dubrovnik’s 19th century from 1909 – 1914 that the national between the City Bell-tower and the chronicler, described the atmosphere theatres of Zagreb and Osijek appeared Rector’s Palace, and so Dubrovnik’s of the event: «That evening, Bonda with several theatrical and operatic theatrical life moved to the palace of was accompanied to the theatre with performances. In that same period, the aristocratic Gozze family on the torches. Numerous sonnets written for Dubrovnik amateur companies appeared corner of the present-day Zuzerina the occasion were recited from the front occasionally at the Bonda Theatre,

22 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. By Hrvoje Ivanković such as the Croatian Amateur Theatre 1933, Bonda’s theatre experienced 1944), it housed the Croatian State Company, who performed Ivo Vojnović’s its moment of world glory, when Theatre for the Coast relocated from Equinox in 1903. The author himself sessions of the 11th International PEN Split after the Italian authorities banned helped the company leader Ilija Nardelli Congress took place there. They are its activities. But Dubrovnik only got to stage this play - which has remained remembered by a sharp clash between its own professional theatre in 1945, an emblematic item on Dubrovnik’s the ideologically opposed parties when the theatre ensemble was founded. dramatic repertoire, but also on that of which ended in one of the first public During its seven-decade existence the Croatia in general - while the legendary international condemnations of Nazism. Marin Držić Theatre has performed a Dubrovnik eccentric Vlaho slijepi On that occasion, Bonda’s theatre was repertoire consisting of different genres, (Vlaho the blind) played himself in the playing host to numerous great names with special emphasis on plays from performance. from the world of literature, from the the Dubrovnik- and Mediterranean chairman, Herbert George Wells, the environment. Owing to its excellent From the very beginning Bonda’s exiled German writer Ernst Toller and ensemble of actors and its collaboration theatre hosted numerous other events, the father of Italian futurism Filippo with the most distinguished theatre from vocal and instrumental concerts Tommaso Marinetti, to Felix Salten, directors, it has been ranked among and illusionist shows to public balls, Jules Romains and Schalom Asch. Croatia’s finest theatres at certain carnival performances, academic periods of time (particularly in the first gatherings and meetings. However, After the end of World War II, Bonda’s half of the 1970s). Regardless of its ups since 1906, when the Gigante Cinema theatre completely dedicated itself and downs and thanks to the Marin appeared in Bonda’s theatre, the to its original purpose, becoming Držić Theatre, Bonda’s theatre has people of Dubrovnik have most often a permanent home to the newly permanently remained the epicentre visited the theatre to watch films. In established National Theatre, which has of Dubrovnik cultural life, just as it the beginning, they were shown by borne the name of Dubrovnik’s great has remained - thanks in many ways travelling cinematographers, but from playwright Marin Držić (1508-1567) to Mister Luko Bonda - an obligatory 1910 on, the theatre was often rented since 1967. Before that (from 1943- destination on Croatia’s theatrical map. by permanent cinematographers. To what extent it annoyed part of the public is clearly evidenced by a text published in a local newspaper in 1911, including the following quotation: “If someone had told the founders of our theatre even in jest that its destiny would be to house a cinema for the whole season, they wouldn’t think twice about blowing it up with dynamite!”

During the period between the two World Wars, Bonda’s theatre was no longer visited by the Italian theatre companies. However the “talking movies” became quite common, and – in addition to numerous performances by Dubrovnik’s amateur companies (who gave about one hundred performances from 1923 to 1940) – the newly established Dubrovnik Philharmonic Orchestra occasionally performed concerts in Bonda’s theatre. Where theatrical guest performances are concerned - apart from professional ensembles from Zagreb, Split, Osijek, Sarajevo and Cetinje – special interest was aroused by a performance by the so-called dissident group of the famous Moscow Art Theatre in 1924. In May

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 23 Luka i Antun SORKOČEVIĆ ičnosti koje se redovito – dubrovački plemići i glazbenici vežu uz Dubrovnik dvojica Lsu eminentnih skladatelja, pripadnika lokalne patricijske obitelji Sorkočević/Sorgo: Luka (1734.-1789.) predstavnik nove generacije, čije su i sin mu Antun (1775.-1841.). Ove skladbe namijenjene aristokratskom, ali godine, u čast 280. godišnjice Lukina i građanskom salonu. splitskim liječnikom, prosvjetiteljem rođenja, Dubrovački muzeji pripremaju Luka je, uz opće obrazovanje, ono i skladateljem Julijem Bajamontijem izložbu koja će pokazati ne samo glazbeno stekao na dubrovačkom (1744.-1800.), koju je nastavio i njegov njihov skladateljski rad, već i glazbeni isusovačkom kolegiju, a potom sin Antun. Pod tim su utjecajem, i kulturološki kontekst u kojemu su ga najprije privatno usavršio kod početkom druge polovice 18. stoljeća, djelovali. To je doba bilo presudno za učitelja Talijana Giuseppea Valentea nastale Lukine svježe trostavačne život Dubrovačke Republike, koju su te okrunio podukom kod opernog ranoklasicističke sinfonije (sačuvano ih Napoleonove trupe okončale 1808. skladatelja Rinalda di Capue u Rimu. je 11) te nekoliko orkestralnih stavaka, godine. Po povratku sa studija, u dobi od 29 koji mogu stajati uz bok djelima Luka i Antun Sorgo mogu se promatrati godina, zasnovao je obitelj, a brojne njegovih suvremenika u Mannheimu, kao predstavnici dvaju društava: Luka je službe čini se da mu više nisu ostavljale Rimu, Beču, Dresdenu, ili kojem djelovao kao prosvijetljeni intelektualac vremena za njegov skladateljski rad. drugom europskom glazbenom središtu. koji njeguje glazbu kao dio uljuđenog Ipak, ljubav prema glazbi obilježila je Lukine diplomatske dužnosti odvele ophođenja u učenim klasicističkim njegovo društveno djelovanje, osobito su ga 1781. godine u Beč, gdje akademijama, dok je Antun već potaknuvši „glazbeničku“ vezu sa je proboravio nekoliko mjeseci,

24 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. Napisala Vjera Katalinić Izložba povodom 280-te obljetnice rođenja Luke Sorkočevića

Dubrovački muzeji u ovoj godini notografijom i diskografijom Lukinih i i izložbe, uz stručnjake iz Muzeja, radit će pripremaju veliki izložbeni projekt Antunovih djela. i vanjski suradnici, ugledni znanstvenici, posvećen Luki i Antunu Sorkočeviću, među kojima su i ugledni muzikolozi Na izložbi će biti prezentirana raznovrsna ocu i sinu, istaknutim dubrovačkim i povjesničari: don Miho Demović, dr. građa, od arhivskih dokumenata i knjižne glazbenicima i diplomatima, te Luki kao sc. Vinicije Lupis, dr. sc. Vjera Katalinić, građe do umjetničkih predmeta, a izložba prvom hrvatskom simfoničaru. Izložba te akademici Stanislav Tuksar i Nenad će biti obogaćena i multimedijalnom predstavlja nastavak iznimno uspješnih Vekarić. Izložbu će pratiti promotivni i prezentacijom. Izlošci će najvećim dijelom središnjih godišnjih izložbenih projekta edukativni materijali koji će biti tiskani biti posuđeni iz vanjskih institucija kao što Dubrovačkih muzeja, započetih 2011. dvojezično. Uz Katalog, promotivne su razni arhivi, knjižnice, HAZU, muzejske godine. Otvaranje izložbe je 14. srpnja aktivnosti i edukativne radionice izložbu ustanove i dr.. 2014. godine u Kneževu dvoru, a bit će će pratiti i širok izbor muzejskih suvenira otvorena do 14. studenog iste godine. Izložbu će pratiti široka promotivno- inspiriranih životom i djelima Luke i Okosnicu projekta čini izložba koja je edukativna akcija usmjerena prema Antuna Sorkočevića. koncipirana u više tematskih cjelina najširoj publici, odnosno lokalnom U sklopu izložbe, a u suradnji s koje nas upoznaju s kulturnim ozračjem stanovništvu i strancima. Bit će održan Dubrovačkim ljetnim igrama, održat će Dubrovnika u drugoj polovici 18. st., i čitav niz edukativnih radionica za se koncert Zagrebačkih solista u atriju glazbom u Dubrovačkoj Republici, životom različite uzraste školske djece kako bi Kneževa dvora, na kojem će biti izvedene i djelom Luke i Antuna Sorkočevića, se podigla razina znanja o Luki i Antunu skladbe Luke Sorkočevića. njihovom glazbenom ostavštinom kroz Sorkočeviću. Reprezentativni Katalog, koji ulogu Luke Sorkočevića u hrvatskoj i će pratiti izložbu, sastoji se od sažetaka na Nakon zatvaranja izložba će biti prebačena europskoj glazbi 18. st. te njegovim engleskom jeziku i kataloški obrađenim u virtualni svijet izradom VRTG izložbe s vezama s uglednim suvremenicima izlošcima, koji će na sveobuhvatan i audio-video vodstvom autora kroz postav. Haydnom, Gluckom, Metastasijem interdisciplinaran način predstaviti život i Također, izložba će biti postavljena na web i Bajamontijem. Kroz izložbu će se djelo Luke i Antuna Sorkočevića i njihovu stranice Dubrovačkih muzeja, Turističke prezentirati i doprinos roda Sorkočević ulogu i mjesto u kontekstu hrvatske i zajednice Grada Dubrovnika kao i na DVD kulturnoj baštini Dubrovnika, europske glazbe. Na tekstovima Kataloga izdanju. Luka i Antun SORKOČEVIĆ – dubrovački plemići i glazbenici ostvario nove ugledne kontakte, te doma ili dubrovačkog kazališta. se, bio najuspješniji u motetu Dixit u svom dnevniku ostavio poticajna Antun Sorkočević jedini je sin Dominus), nikad nije dosegao očevu svjedočanstva ne samo o svom odrastao među pet sestara. Očeva vještinu i svježu invenciju. Zadnja diplomatskom radu, već i o kulturi glazbenička djelatnost te prijateljstvo s datirana skladba mu je sonata iz 1814., habsburške prijestolnice, koja je u to Bajamontijem nesumnjivo su utjecali na no u Parizu mu je 1830-ih godina doba već slovila kao važno europsko njegovo bavljenje skladateljskim radom, objavljena jedna salonska arija uz glazbeno središte. Osim službenih usporedno sa studijem književnosti i pratnju klavira. susreta s plemićima i poslanicima povijesti, čemu se kasnije primarno U dubrovačkom samostanu Male te carem Josipom II., Luka je vodio posvetio. Djelovao je kao posljednji braće, u Glazbenoj zbirci, nalaze se još bilješke o svojim susretima s dvorskim poslanik Republike u Parizu, gdje se i neke skladbe s njihovim imenima, no libretistom Pietrom Metastasijem, sa trajno nastanio nakon sloma Napoleona. teško je zaključiti tko je od njih dvojice skladateljima Josephom Haydnom i Tamo je objavio djela o povijesti, jeziku i autor. U toj se zbirci čuvaju ne samo Christophom Willibaldom Gluckom, o književnosti Dubrovačke Republike. Lukina i Antunova djela, već i glazbena posjetima operi te privatnim i javnim Antun je počeo skladati kao ostavština Dubrovačke Republike, koncertnim akademijama, o dvorskim 18-godišnjak, a komponirao je i četiri među kojima su i popijevke dubrovačke svečanostima i plesovima, poduci i simfonije, komorne skladbe (gudački plemkinje-skladateljice Jelene Pozza- slično. Po povratku u Dubrovnik Luka je kvartet, trija, sonate), ali i svjetovna Sorgo (Pucić-Sorkočević), te rukopisni svoja iskustva o (glazbenoj) kulturi Beča i crkvena vokalno-instrumentalna i tiskani rariteti iz europske glazbene sigurno primijenio i u svojim službama, djela. Međutim, iako se trudio doseći baštine. osobito kao nadzornika djevojačkog profesionalnu razinu (a u tome je, čini

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 25 – Diplomats and Composers Luka & Antun SORKOČEVIĆ ersonalities who are usually appreciated music as part of a civilised with Julije Bajamonti (1744-1800) - a associated with Dubrovnik education at prestigious classicist physician from Split, who was a follower Pinclude two distinguished academies, while Antun was already of the Enlightenment movement and composers, members of the local a representative of a new generation composer - which Luka’s son Antun aristocratic family of Sorkočević/ whose compositions were intended for continued. At the beginning of the Sorgo: Luka (1734-1789) and his son aristocratic, but also middle class music second half of the 18th century, under Antun (1775-1841). This year on rooms. Bajamonti’s influence, Luka Sorkočević the occasion of the 280th anniversary composed dazzling early-Classicist of the birth of Luka Sorkočević, the In addition to his general education, symphonies in three movements (eleven Dubrovnik Museums are preparing an Luka acquired his music education at of which have been preserved), and exhibition that will show not only their the Dubrovnik Jesuit College, and later several orchestral movements that can composing output, but also the musical studied with Giuseppe Valente, and be compared with the works of his and cultural milieu in which they eventually with the opera composer contemporaries in Mannheim, Rome, worked. This period was crucial for the Rinaldo di Capua in Rome. After Vienna, Dresden, or any other European Dubrovnik Republic, which Napoleon’s completing his studies, at the age of music centre. troops brought to an abrupt end in 29, he got married, and his extensive 1808. business engagements seem not to In 1781, Luka’s diplomatic service took have left him any time for composing. him to Vienna, where he spent several Luka and Antun Sorgo can be seen as However, his love of music did leave its months and made many important representatives of two societies: Luka mark on his social activities, and above contacts, leaving in his diary fascinating was an enlightened intellectual who all encouraged his «musical» relationship evidence not only of his diplomatic

26 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. By Vjera Katalinić Exhibition on the Occasion of the 280th Anniversary of the Birth of Luka Sorkočević

This year, the Dubrovnik Museums are heritage by means of a notographic and texts will, in addition to experts from the preparing a major exhibition project discographic portrayal of Luka’s and Dubrovnik Museums, be written by other dedicated to father and son Luka Antun’s works. renowned scientists, amongst whom are and Antun Sorkočević, Dubrovnik’s Using a multitude of diverse materials, the musicologists and historians: Father distinguished musicians and diplomats, from archival documents and books Miho Demović, Vinicije Lupis, Sc.D., with Luka as Croatia’s first composer to art objects, the exhibition will be Vjera Katalinić, Sc.D., and academicians of symphonies. The exhibition is a enhanced by a multi-media presentation. Stanislav Tuksar and Nenad Vekarić. continuation of the Dubrovnik Museums’ The majority of exhibits will be loaned Bilingual promotional and educative exceptionally successful series of major from other institutions, such as archives, material on the exhibition will also be annual exhibitions launched in 2011. The libraries, the Croatian Academy of Science printed. In addition to promotional events opening will take place on 14 July 2014 at and Arts, museums, etc. and educative workshops, the exhibition the Rector’s Palace, and the exhibition will The exhibition will be accompanied by will offer a wide selection of museum be open till 14 November 2014. an extensive promotional and educative souvenirs inspired by the life and work of The backbone of the project is the campaign, targeting the widest audiences, Luka and Antun Sorkočević. exhibition, which has been designed i.e., local population and foreign visitors. In collaboration with the Dubrovnik in the form of several thematic units A series of educational workshops for Summer Festival, the exhibition will acquainting us with Dubrovnik’s cultural different age groups of school children organise a Zagreb Soloists concert at the milieu in the second half of the 18th will be held, aiming to expand their Rector’s Palace Atrium, featuring Luka century, music in the Dubrovnik Republic, knowledge about Luka and Antun Sorkočević’s compositions. the life and work of Luka and Antun Sorkočević. A representative catalogue After its closure, the exhibition will be Sorkočević, their music heritage from published for the occasion will include transferred into the virtual world, i.e., the viewpoint of Luka Sorkočević’s role in summaries in the English language, and a VRTG of the exhibition will be made, both Croatian and European 18th century the catalogued exhibits presenting in including the authors’ audio and video music, and their relationships with their a comprehensive and interdisciplinary comments. Visitors will also have the renowned contemporaries Haydn, Gluck, way the life and work of Luka and Antun opportunity to see the exhibition on web Metastasi and Bajamonti. The exhibition Sorkočević, and their role and place sites of the Dubrovnik Museums and the will also present the Sorkočević family’s within the context of Croatian and Dubrovnik Tourist Board, as well as on a contribution to Dubrovnik’s cultural European music. The catalogue DVD. Luka & Antun SORKOČEVIĆ work, but also of the culture of the father’s music activities and friendship mastery and invention. His last dated Habsburg capital, which was already at with Bajamonti undoubtedly influenced composition is a sonata from 1814, that time considered a major European his composing work, along with his although a salon aria of his to piano music centre. Apart from his official literature and history studies to which accompaniment was published in Paris meetings with local noblemen, envoys he later dedicated himself primarily. He in the 1830s. and with Emperor Joseph II of Austria, was the last of the Dubrovnik Republic’s Luka took notes on his meetings with envoys to Paris, where he settled down The Musical Collection at Dubrovnik’s the court librettist Pietro Metastasi permanently after Napoleon’s fall, and Friars Minor Monastery includes some and the composers Joseph Haydn and published his works on the Dubrovnik other compositions by Luka and Antun Christoph Willibald Gluck, as well as on Republic’s history, language and Sorkočević, however, it is difficult to his visits to the opera and both private literature. Antun Sorkočević began to tell which of the two was the composer. and public concert academies, court compose at the age of 18. His opus In addition to their works, the ceremonies, balls, tuition, and so on. includes four symphonies, chamber collection includes music heritage of the Upon his return to Dubrovnik, Luka music pieces (a string quartet, trios and Dubrovnik Republic, such as songs by undoubtedly applied his experience with sonatas), as well as both secular and the Dubrovnik aristocrat and composer Vienna’s culture in his work, particularly church vocal and instrumental works. Jelena Pozza-Sorgo (Pucić-Sorkočević), in the role of manager of the girls’ home However, although he tried to reach as well as rare manuscripts and printed and the Dubrovnik theatre. professional level in his composing (his material belonging to the European most successful work seems to have musical heritage. Antun Sorkočević grew up with his five been the motet Dixit Dominus), he sisters, as the only son in the family. His never managed to match his father’s

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 27 Marko dubrovački slikar - lirik / a Dubrovnik Painter and Poet Murat Napisao / By Ivan Vigjen anas slabo poznat izvan trenutaka uopće i bilo s obzirom koliki konzervatorom. I tu je pokazao iznimnu stručnih krugova, akademski je bio njegov angažman oko obrazovanja marljivost, iako ponekad nažalost Dslikar Marko Murat tijekom i slikanja. U Beogradu, koji je tada neshvaćen u akcijama istraživanja i života je bio profesor umjetnosti bio privlačan mnogim slavenskim očuvanja baštine. Jedna od njegovih princu, jedan od utemeljitelja Likovne umjetnicima i poduzetnicima, stekao je zasluga jest i ona da je u Dubrovnik akademije, osnivač posebne službe za veliku popularnost. Neko je vrijeme bio doveo Kostu Strajnića (1887.-1977.), zaštitu spomenika, kroničar Grada... Ni gimnazijski profesor crtanja i povijesti mecenu,likovnog kritičara, konzervatora prvi ni zadnji umjetnik koji je za života umjetnosti, da bi 1905. bio jedan od i kolekcionara čiji je angažman u bio hvaljen i poznat, da bi ga nakon profesora koji su osnovali Umjetničko- formiranju dubrovačkoga kolorističkog smrti publika i povjesničari umjetnosti zanatsku školu koja je kasnije prerasla slikarskog kruga danas prepoznat kao nepravedno zapostavili. u Likovnu akademiju. Odgojio je tako ključan. Slikajući do samoga kraja i Rođen 30. prosinca 1864. u Luci više generacija likovnih umjetnika, a ostajući javno angažiran intelektualac Šipanskoj, na najvećemu elafitskome jedan je njegov suvremenik to razdoblje i u mirovini, umro je u Dubrovniku otoku, odmalena je pokazivao sklonost opisao riječima: „...Murat je bio prvi 14. listopada 1944. godine, a tek crtanju i slikanju, a nakon završene dosljedni plenerist u Beogradu i, u ono doba, se posljednjih godina njegova uloga osnovne škole i gimnazije upisao je jedini naš slikar pjesnik, slikar lirske ekstaze u dubrovačkoj kulturnoj povijesti Bogosloviju u Zadru što ne čudi s boja. Čitave generacije on je zadahnuo ovim istražuje, vrjednuje i popularizira. obzirom da su mu ujak i stariji brat shvaćanjem i unio svojim prefinjenim duhom, Svjestan da voljeti Grad i njegovu bili svećenici: majčin brat bio je Vice svojim produbljenim, moderniziranim kulturnu baštinu znači na prvome Palunko (1842.-1921.), skupljač humanizmom i fenomenalnom osjećajnošću, mjestu voljeti njegove ljude i ljudsko narodnih pjesama i publicist, a kasnije i jednu novu, blagotvornu notu u umjetnički i stremljenje ka dobrom i lijepom, u pomoćni splitski biskup koji se još tada kulturni život...“ Osim toga, bio je među svojim je memoarima zapisao: „...sve trudio međunarodnoj javnosti dokazati glavnim utemeljiteljima udruženja sami Dubrovčani, sve naša skladna pitoma vjerojatnost mljetskog brodoloma južnoslavenskih umjetnika „Lada“ čeljad, i stariji i mlađi, veseli, puni onoga sv. Pavla, dok je slikarev stariji brat (1904.) koje je bilo poznato po svojim našega naročitoga dubrovačkoga humora; u bio Andro Murat (1862.-1952.), međunarodnim izložbama u slavenskim govoru i u ponašanju sve naše, sve domaće... dugogodišnji župnik u Orašcu i potom zemljama, a nakon nekoliko godina, Gdje god bih se okretao po gradu i oko njega na rodnome Šipanu, također zanesen tražeći još šire vidike, pridružuje po cijelome dubrovačkome kraju, svuda si se prikupljanjem narodnih umotvorina. se udruženju hrvatskih umjetnika osjećao kod kuće i doma. Svuda ista duša, Prekretnica u njegovu životu dogodila „Medulić“ (1908.) čiji su članovi ista pitomina i skladnost i težnja ka njoj.“ se, očekivano, zbog jednog crteža. bili, pored Ivana Meštrovića, koji je Nagovoren od kolege iz Bogoslovije imao predvodničku ulogu, i istaknuti ittle known outside professional da objavi neki svoj rad, poslao je nositelji hrvatske moderne umjetnosti i circles today, the academic zagrebačkome časopisu „Vijenac“ društveno angažirani intelektualci. Prvi Lpainter Marko Murat was an crtež perom Sijelo kod Cvijete Zuzorić, svjetski rat bio je prekretnica i u životu art professor to a prince, one of the koji je odmah skrenuo pozornost na Marka Murata: izbijanje rata u srpnju founders of the Academy of Art, founder talentiranog mladića. Crtež je primijetio 1914. zateklo ga je na Šipanu gdje je, of a department for the protection of ugledni mecena i dobrotvor te mu kao i uvijek, provodio ljepši dio godine, monuments, the City’s chronicler... And ponudio stipendiju za studij slikarstva te je od austrougarskih vlasti interniran also, neither the first nor the last artist u Münchenu, koji je tada (uz Pariz i u logor u Mađarskoj odakle izlazi to be praised and famous during his Beč), bio jedan od europskih likovnih poprilično psihički slomljen. Rat je tako lifetime and then unjustly neglected by prijestolnica. označio završetak njegove beogradske the public and art historians after his Po uspješnome završetku studija faze i povratak u Dubrovnik u kojemu death. (1886.–1893.), na kojemu je upoznao će ostati daljnjih trideset godina, sve do tada suvremene tijekove umjetnosti smrti. He was born on 30 December 1864 in Mitteleurope, vratio se u Dubrovnik, ali Posljednja su tri desetljeća njegova Luka Šipanjska, on the largest of the je ubrzo dobio ponudu srpske Vlade života upravo i najzanimljivija za Elafite islands. He showed an affinity za zaposlenje i usavršavanje. Idućih je dubrovačku kulturnu baštinu: Marko for drawing and painting at an early dvadeset godina (do početka Prvoga Murat osnovao je 1919. godine posebnu age. After completing both elementary svjetskoga rata 1914. godine) stalno instituciju koja se bavila zaštitom and grammar school, he began to živio na relaciji Dubrovnik – Beograd, spomenika kulture što je bio velik study theology in Zadar, which is not provodeći u Dubrovniku i na rodnome korak naprijed. Bilo je to Nadleštvo za surprising in view of the fact that his Šipanu svaki slobodni trenutak, umjetnost i spomenike koje je djelovalo uncle and elder brother were priests. uglavnom tijekom školskih praznika. A do početka Drugoga svjetskog rata, a His mother’s brother was Vice Palunko čini se nevjerojatnim da je tih slobodnih Murat je imenovan prvim upravnikom i (1842-1921), a collector of folk poems

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 29 and a publicist, and later Split’s auxiliary grammar school, and in 1905 became for the following thirty years, until his bishop who was already at that time one of the teachers who established an death. trying to prove to the international art and crafts school that later grew public the probability of St Paul’s into the Academy of Visual Arts. He The last three decades of his life are shipwreck on the Island of Mljet, while educated several generations of visual actually the most interesting for the painter’s elder brother, Andro Murat artists, and one of his contemporaries Dubrovnik’s cultural heritage. In (1862-1952) - a long time parish priest described that time in the following 1919 Marko Murat established an in Orašac, and then on institution specializing in his native Island of Šipan the protection of historic - was also an enthusiastic buildings, which was a collector of folk wisdom. huge step forward. It A turning point in was the Art and Historic Marko Murat’s life Buildings Department, occurred, as was to be which operated till the expected, because of a beginning of World War drawing. Persuaded by II, with Murat being a colleague from the appointed its first director theological faculty to and conservationist. publish one of his works, There too he showed he sent to the Zagreb outstanding diligence, based Vijenac magazine but was, on several a pen-and-ink drawing occasions, unfortunately entitled A Gathering at misunderstood in research Cvijeta Zuzorić’s, which and heritage preservation immediately aroused public interest in words: “...Murat was Belgrade’s first campaigns. One of his accomplishments this talented young man. The drawing true painter–pleinairist and at that time was to bring to Dubrovnik Kosta was noticed by a respected patron of the our only painter–poet, a painter of the Strajnić (1887-1977), a patron of the arts and benefactor, who offered him a lyrical ecstasy of colours. He inspired many arts, visual art critic, conservationist scholarship to study painting in Munich, generations with this concept, introducing and collector, whose involvement in which was (alongside Paris and Vienna) a new, benevolent note to the artistic and establishing the Dubrovnik colourist one of Europe’s visual arts capitals at the cultural life with his refined spirit, his painters circle is nowadays considered time. profound and modernised humanism, and his to be crucial. Continuing to paint phenomenal sensitivity...” In addition to till the very end and remaining a After the successful completion of his that, he was one of the major founders publicly engaged intellectual during studies (1886–1893), during which of the Lado Society of South Slavic his retirement too, Marko Murat died he became acquainted with the latest Artists (1904), which became famous in Dubrovnik on 14 October 1944, art trends of the time in Central for its international exhibitions in the while his role in the cultural history of Europe, Marko Murat returned to Slavic countries, and which – several Dubrovnik has only been researched, Dubrovnik. Shortly afterwards, the years later, and looking for even broader evaluated and popularized in recent Serbian government offered him a job vistas – joined the Medulić Society of years. Knowing that to love the City and specialization. In the course of the Croatian Artists (1908). Apart from its and its cultural heritage means to twenty years that followed (till the leader Ivan Meštrović, society members primarily love people and the human beginning of World War I in 1914) he included distinguished Croatian modern pursuit of that which is good and lived permanently between Dubrovnik artists and socially engaged intellectuals. beautiful, Marko Murat wrote the and Belgrade, spending each free World War I was a turning point in the following in his memoirs: “...all of them moment in Dubrovnik and on his native life of Marko Murat too. The beginning citizens of Dubrovnik, all of them upright Šipan, mainly during school holidays. of the war in July of 1914 found him gentle people, old and young, cheerful, It seems unbelievable that he had any on Šipan, where he was spending the bursting with that specific Dubrovnik free time at all, in view of his busy warmer part of the year, as he always humour; all of them our people, all locals both educational and painting schedule. He did. The Austro-Hungarian authorities in their speech and behaviour… Wherever became widely popular in Belgrade, sent him to a prison-camp in Hungary, I went in and around the city, in the entire which was at the time attractive to which he left with a considerably broken area of Dubrovnik, it felt like home. The many Slav artists and entrepreneurs. spirit. The war thus marked the end same spirit everywhere, the same gentleness For a time Marko Murat served as a of his Belgrade phase and his return and harmony, and the strive to achieve it.” drawing and art history teacher at a to Dubrovnik, in which he would stay

30 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014.

Festa sv.Vlaha – jedinstvena zimska svečanost Dubrovnika

„Dan ki nam dohodi jednom na godište“, Festa sv.Vlaha, slavi se već 1041. godinu i izravna je poveznica s dubrovačkom tradicijom i poviješću koja se odražava u svakom djeliću proslave. Svetac Vlaho ujedno je i zaštitnik Grada Dubrovnika, te je 3.veljače i Dan Grada Dubrovnika, pa se uz crkvene svečanosti u Gradu pod Srđem organizira i niz manifestacija svjetovnog prizvuka koje su posvećene svecu zaštitniku koji Dubrovnik čuva na svom ispruženom dlanu. Kandelora i golubice koje se puštaju na slobodu, inspirativna Himna sv.Vlahu, barjaci i svečane narodne nošnje, crkveni velikodostojnici, svjetovni upravitelji Grada, diplomati i političari,grličanje, veličanstvena procesija vjernika... Stoljećima, Festa je nepromijenjena , kao što je nepromijenjena privrženost stanovnika Dubrovnika i okolice svome zaštitniku, liku i djelu sv.Vlaha, koji je utkan u sve pore dubrovačke povijesti i sadašnjosti, čija je proslava od 2009. postala dijelom UNESCO –ve nematerijalne baštine čovječanstva .

32 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. Festival of St Blaise

- Dubrovnik’s unique winter celebration

„A day that comes once a year“, the Festival of St Blaise, has been celebrated for 1041 years, strictly following Dubrovnik’s tradition and history which reflect on each of the festival events. Saint Blaise is also Dubrovnik’s patron saint, so 3 February is the City of Dubrovnik Day too. Therefore, alongside church ceremonies, numerous secular events are organised honouring Dubrovnik’s patron saint who guards the city, which lies in his open palm: Candlemass and the releasing of doves, the inspiring hymn to St Blaise, folk costumes, prelates, the city authorities, diplomats, politicians, the throat blessing ceremony, the magnificent procession of worshipers… For many centuries the festival has remained unchanged, and so has the faith of the people of Dubrovnik and its surroundings in their patron, St Blaise, who has left his mark on every aspect of Dubrovnik’s past and present, and whose festival has been included in the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2009.

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 33 Muzej kravate

ovjek koji putuje ne bi da je pod hrvatskim trebao krenuti na put imenom postala, i do „Čbez kovčežića u koji će danas ostala, nezaobilazan složiti zbirku kravata“, zapisao je 1827. muški modni dodatak. Prvi su godine grof Della Galda, u svojoj knjizi je prepoznali Francuzi, a kasnije su “Umijeće vezivanja kravate na sve kravatu svijetom pronijeli Englezi i svi poznate i uobičajene načine, u šesnaest koji su ovu svilenu vrpcu vezanu oko lekcija”. vrata na hrvatski način, zavoljeli i nosili. u Dubrovniku Danas, u globaliziranom svijetu Etnografija, etimologija, stilovi i slobodno možemo reći: „Čovjek koji moda, simbol i poruka – prikazi su doputuje u Hrvatsku ne bi trebao otići kravate i njezinoga globalnog širenja kući bez bar jedne kravate, a za one koji koje će predstaviti Muzej kravate. U doputuju u Dubrovnik ovog ljeta, da jedinstvenom prostoru, kamenoj jezgri ne bi trebali otići bez da posjete Muzej Slanice, čiji su zidovi viši od šest metara kravate!“ nekada štitili sol, stoljećima gospodarsko Zašto je kravata postala simbol blago Dubrovačke Republike, bit će poslovnoga svijeta, simbol otmjenosti, omogućeno posjetiteljima neometano muškosti i vjernosti? Kako se proširila razgledati novo blago - eksponate svijetom upravo iz Hrvatske, i zašto Muzeja kravate na dvije etaže. Uz je odavno nadrasla značenje samo povijesnu priču, onima koji žele dekorativnoga odjevnog predmeta? potpuniju informaciju, pripremljena je Pitanja su to na koja će posjetiteljima i projekcija filma Kravata, interaktivan odgovoriti postav Muzeja kravate koji program i zabava uz filmske scene u ove sezone otvara vrata u jedinstvenom kojima je kravata pokretač radnje. Tu su prostoru dubrovačkih zidina. i recentna umjetnička djela prikupljena Kravate imaju ‘ono nešto’, na svoje u sklopu projekta Izazov kravate, jednog vlasnike prenose energiju generacija ljudi dijela međunarodne izložbe u kojoj koje su ih nosile, priču o povijesti zemlje su svoje viđenje kravate – u različitim u kojoj su nastale, a sklad, ljepota i art-tehnikama, od klasičnih medija i pažljiva izrada pojedinih primjeraka čine skulpture do recentnih umjetničkih ih i umjetničkim predmetima. Posjetitelji instalacija, dali umjetnici iz Čilea, ovoga jedinstvenog dubrovačkog muzeja Hrvatske, Južnoafričke Republike, upoznat će se s fascinantnim putom toga Njemačke, Poljske, Mađarske... najzanimljivijega dodatka muškoga (ali Napokon, tu je i Video-knjiga dojmova ne i samo muškoga), odijevanja. gdje svaki posjetitelj dobija mogućnost Muzej kravate posjetitelja će već na da svoje dojmove, razmišljanja o tematici samom ulazu dočekati multimedijalnom muzeja i njezinoj realizaciji i sam pričom o kravati koju su hrvatskim zabilježi za računalom. vojnicima, stoljećima unazad,oko vrata Muzej kravate čeka na vas u vezivale njihove dragane. Hrvatski Dubrovniku, u Hrvatskoj – domovini konjanici u 17. stoljeću, tijekom kravate! vladavine Luja XIV., nosili su je kao ures I ne zaboravite, za obilazak, nije nužno na grudima te raširili po Europi, tako vezati kravatu!

34 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. Napisala / By Maja Rilović Koprivec the chests of Croatian horsemen in the 17th century during the reign of Louis «A XIV, the cravat spread all over Europe, travelling man should not start becoming - under its Croatian name - an his journey without a small case in obligatory fashionable accessory for men. which to store his cravat collection», First adopted by the French, the cravat claimed Count Della Galda in 1827 was later spread around the world by the in his book The art of knotting cravats in English and all others who learned to love usual and unusual ways in sixteen lessons. and wear this silk strip of cloth tied around In the present-day globalized world, their necks in the Croatian style. we may as well say «A man who travels The Cravat Museum will present the to Croatia should not leave the country ethnography, etymology, styles, fashion, without at least one tie.» We may also say symbolism and message of the cravat, as that this summer’s visitors to Dubrovnik well as its expansion globally. should not leave the City without visiting In the unique venue of the slanica (salt the Cravat Museum! depot), where salt - the economic backbone Why has the tie become a symbol of of the Dubrovnik Republic - used to be business world, sophistication, manhood stored behind more than six metre high and fidelity? How did it spread around stone walls, visitors to the museum will the world from this very Croatia, and why have the opportunity to examine a new did it become more than just a decorative treasure – the Cravat Museum display item of clothing so long ago? The answers spread over two floors. Apart from to these questions will be available at the learning about the cravat’s history, visitors Cravat Museum, which will open this interested in learning more details can tourist season in a unique location within watch a film entitled The Cravat. It is the Dubrovnik city walls. an entertaining interactive programme Cravats (ties) have «that special in which the cravat initiates the action. something», passing on the energy of Visitors will also have the opportunity to generations of people who once wore see recent works of art collected within

them to their current owners, while telling the project The Cravat Challenge, which is Cravat the of Homeland the in the story of the history of the country of one part of an international exhibition. their origin, and their elegance, beauty Participants in this exhibition include and delicate design make ties works of artists from Chile, Croatia, the South art too. Visitors to this one-of-a-kind African Republic, Germany, Poland and museum will have the opportunity Hungary, who present their own view to become acquainted with the of the cravat employing different art fascinating history of this most techniques – from the classical media and attractive accessory for men sculpture to recent art installations. Museum (and not only for men). At the And finally, a video-book of impressions very entrance, the visitors will also be displayed, enabling each will hear a multi-media visitor to note down on a computer his (tie) story of the cravat, which own impressions and ideas regarding the the sweethearts of museum’s theme and its realization. Croatian soldiers used The Cravat Museum awaits you in to tie around their Dubrovnik, Croatia - the cravat’s necks for many homeland! centuries. Worn as a Please note that the dress code in this Cravat Cravat decorative item on museum does not necessarily require a tie! A

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 35 IZMEĐU ISTINE I LEGENDE Rikard lavljeg srca

egende su također dio je pridonio i požar, koji je trajao nekoliko kralj zavjetovao „da će izgraditi crkvu dubrovačke rane srednjovjekovne dana, uništivši potpuno ili djelomično na mjestu ako se spasi“. Srećom, vjetar Lpovijesti. One su poglavito samostanske i privatne knjižnice. I strane i valovi tjerali su jedrenjak prema otoku vezane za dubrovačkog nebeskog okupacije Dubrovnika tijekom XIX. Lokrumu ispred Dubrovnika. zaštitnika svetog Vlaha. I ove, 2014. stoljeća doprinijele su otuđivanju i pljački U „Listu dubrovačke biskupije“ godine na 3. veljače, dubrovački puk je knjižnica, poput benediktinske knjižnice broj 9-10 iz 1930. godine navodi se po 1042. put odao veliko štovanje svom u Svetom Jakovu i na Lokrumu. Na jedan povijesni dokumenat s kraja Parcu veličanstvenom svečanošću. sreću, usmeno predanje vjerodostojnih XVI. stoljeća iz Dubrovačkog arhiva Jedna od najintrigantnijih dubrovačkih svjedoka prenosilo se kroz stoljeća. u kojem se govori sljedeće, a kojeg legendi u svezi je jednog povijesnog Postoji ovjereni dokument s kraja prenosim u skraćenom obliku,: „Na događaja. Radi se o posjetu Dubrovniku XVI. stoljeća koji potvrđuje povijesni zahtjev presvijetlog gospodina kneza i engleskog kralja Rikarda Lavljeg Srca događaj o posjetu engleskog kralja vijećnika Dubrovačke Republike, ovdje krajem 1192. godine nakon njegovog Rikarda Lavljeg Srca Dubrovniku pri ispod bit će registrirano dole napisano povratka iz III. križarske vojne. kraju XII. stoljeća. Njegov neplanirani uvjerenje i zakonitom ovjerom potvrđene Nažalost, izvorni povijesni zapisi o posjet veoma je dramatičan, jer su kralj njegove obaveze, čiji je sadržaj ovakav: tom događaju iz navedenog vremena i njegova pratnja jedva spasili goli život (...) Rikard I. sin spomenutog Henrika nisu sačuvani (ili još nisu pronađeni), prilikom povratka. Naime, mletački II. i nasljednik na tronu vršeći pokoru što i nije iznenađujuće obzirom da jedrenjak zahvatilo je veliko nevrijeme u svoga oca (smrt Henrika II. spriječila je Dubrovnik pogodio katastrofalni Jadranskome moru i prijetila je opasnost ga je na odlazak u Jeruzalem, te je potres 6. travnja 1667. godine. Velikom da jedrenjak doživi brodolom i da se svi Rikard – nap. D.R.) poveo ovakav rat. razaranju Grada usljed potresa dodatno utope. Legenda govori da se engleski Nakon toga je, kad je brodom krenuo na

36 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. Napisao Damir Račić

put prema Engleskoj, bacan morskom pisma svjedočanstva budu po zakonima, Lavljeg Srca! U njegovoj knjizi olujom i napokon uz veliku pogibelj i osim vjere, na molbu lokrumskih otaca, „Junaci i zločinci“, koja je objavljena po život odnesen u dalmatinski zaljev naredili smo da se potpišu od kancelara na hrvatskome jeziku 2009. godine, (Jadransko more – nap. D.R.). Stoga naše Republike, te se također znakom McLynn je vrlo detaljno istražio je, utječući se Bogu, odlučio na mjestu božanskog zaštitnika Sv. Vlaha, kojim se povijesne dokumente o životopisu na koje prvo pristane, ako izbjegne u sličnim prilikama koristimo, potvrde engleskog kralja-ratnika, a priložena (pogibelj), uz trošak od 100.000 dukata i osnaže pečatom. Dano u Dubrovniku ilustracija u njegovoj knjizi prikazuje pod svečanim zavjetom izgraditi crkvu. 1598. godine od Spasonosnog Rođenja rutu povratka morskim putem Richarda Kad je potom neozlijeđen pristao na našeg Gospodina Isusa Krista, indikacije Lavljeg Srca i njegove pratnje te doticaj lokrumsku hrid na području pod našom XI. dana 20. veljače. s Dubrovnikom. Na jednome mjestu jurisdikcijom blizu grada Dubrovnika, Victor Besalleus, javni kancelar autor navodi: „Doživjevši brodolom gdje se nalazi samostan braće monaha presvijetle Republike Dubrovačke pod u Jadranskom moru, nakon čega se reda sv. Benedikta zajednice Monte prisegom“. u Englesku morao vratiti kopnenim Cassina, ondje je požurio ispuniti zahtjev Osim djelomično citiranog povijesnog putem.“ Na putu su kralja čekale još za dobivenu milost. Na molbu naše dokumenta iz XVI. stoljeća postoji i mnoge opasnosti. Republike uz prethodno apostolsko jedna suvremena posredna potvrda o Navođenjem navedenih izvora dopuštenje, u Dubrovniku je utemeljio posjetu engleskog kralja Dubrovniku podataka jedna dubrovačka „legenda“ crkvu. (Ista je srušena u katastrofalnom 1192. godine, engleskog povijesničara prestaje to biti, jer dobija argumentirani potresu 1667. godine. – nap. D.R.). Franka McLynn-a, koji je doktorirao prikaz događaja temeljen na povijesnim (...) Stoga, da se ne bi dogodilo kome na londonskom sveučilištu. Napisao činjenicama. da sumnja u ovo, da ova naša otvorena je biografije Napoleona i Rikarda

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 37 BETWEEN TRUTH AND LEGEND Richard The Lionheart

egends are part of Dubrovnik’s early medieval history. They Lmainly refer to Dubrovnik’s celestial protector, St Blaise. During a magnificent festival which took place on 3 February 2014, the people of Dubrovnik paid respect to their patron saint for the 1042nd time. One of the most intriguing legends is linked to a historic event – Richard the Lionheart’s visit to Dubrovnik on his way back from the Third Crusade in the late 1192. Unfortunately, the original historic records of the event have not been preserved (or discovered yet), which is not surprising in view of the fact that Dubrovnik was hit by a disastrous earthquake on 6 April 1667. The destruction of the City was additionally aggravated by a fire which lasted several days, consuming completely or partially both monastic and private libraries. Furthermore, the foreign powers which occupied Dubrovnik during the 19th century were also responsible for the misappropriation and plundering of libraries such as the Benedictine Library at St Jacob’s and the one on the Island of Lokrum. Luckily, reliable witnesses passed on these tales through the centuries by word of mouth. A verified

38 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. By Damir Račić Richard The Lionheart

document from the late 16th century penance for his father (the death of Henry Victor Besalleus, Public Chancellor of the exists confirming that Richard the II prevented him from going to Jerusalem – illustrious Dubrovnik Republic, under oath.» Lionheart’s visit to Dubrovnik in the author’s note). After that, on his way back to late 12th century was a historic event. England, he was caught in a life threatening In addition to the aforementioned The unplanned visit of the English storm which carried him to the Dalmatian partial historic quotation from the King and his entourage was extremely Bay (Adriatic Sea). Praying for salvation, 16th century, there is an indirect dramatic, because they only just he made a solemn vow to build a church to contemporary confirmation of King managed to escape with their bare lives. the value of 100.000 ducats on the land he Richard’s visit to Dubrovnik in 1192 Namely, their Venetian sailing ship was first set foot on. Having landed unharmed by the English historian with a London caught in a huge storm on the Adriatic on the nearby rocky shore of the Island of University doctorate Frank McLynn. and there was the threat of shipwreck Lokrum - which was under our jurisdiction His works include biographies of and the death of all passengers. Legend - where a Benedictine Monastery belonging Napoleon and Richard the Lionheart! In has it that the English King made a to the Monte Cassino fraternity was also His book Heroes and Villains, published vow “to build a church at the place of located, Richard I hastened to fulfil his in the Croatian language in 2009, his salvation”. Fortunately, the wind promise. Upon the request of the Dubrovnik McLynn intensively researched historic and waves pushed the vessel towards Republic and previous apostolic consent, he documents on the life of the English the Island of Lokrum located opposite established a church in Dubrovnik. (The king-warrior. The book includes the Dubrovnik. church was destroyed in the disastrous sea route along which Richard the earthquake of 1667 – author’s note.) (...) Lionheart and his entourage returned, The Dubrovnik Diocese Magazine No. In order to allay any doubt that this and describes his connection with 9-10 from 1930 mentions a historic testimony was written in accordance with Dubrovnik. At one point, he also claims document from the late 16th century the law, and upon of the request of the the following: «After the shipwreck kept at the Dubrovnik Archives. The Lokrum clergy, we ordered it to be signed by on the Adriatic, he had to return to short version of the text is as follows: the Republic Chancellor and verified and England by land». The King was still to «Upon the request of the illustrious Rector confirmed by the stamp of St Blaise, our experience many perils on the way. and Councillor of the Dubrovnik Republic, heavenly protector, which we use in similar the below mentioned confirmation will situations. Thanks to the aforementioned data, be registered hereinunder and verified in Written in Dubrovnik, in the year 1598 one of Dubrovnik’s «legends» ceases to accordance with the law: (...) Richard I, following the Birth of Our Saviour Lord be a legend in view of the argumented the son of the aforementioned Henry II and Jesus Christ, Indication XI, on 20th description of the event based on successor to the throne, led this war doing February. historic facts.

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 39 Stoljeće Hotela Lapad (1914. – 2014.)

o početka Prvoga svjetskog rata u dubrovačkom Dkraju, promet putnika i turista, odvijao se gotovo isključivo u Dubrovniku. Tih godina, otvorena su dva nova hotela: na Pločama Hotel Odak (današnji Hotel Excelsior) 1913. i u Lapadu „Bijeli dvorac“ (današnji Hotel Lapad) 1914. godine. Upravo izgradnjom i početkom rada ovih hotela, postavljeni su temelji lokalizacije turističkih objekata na najvrijednijim predjelima Dubrovnika.

Grand hotel Lapad

Godine 1911. pokrenuta je ideja o izgradnji jednog velikog hotela u obustavljani poradi blizine barutane i Lapadu. Te godine u Dubrovnik dolazi zbog toga strogih građevinskih propisa. industrijalac i veleposjednik Wilhelm Hotel je završen i otvoren 23. ožujka Lerch, koji kupuje kompleks imanja 1914. godine. Novi hotel je nazvan na području Lapada, od mora do vrha „Weisses Schloss“, što je izazvalo Glavice s dvorcem, koji Dubrovčani pomutnju, nezadovoljstvo i javne prodao je za 1.200.000 kruna tadašnjoj nazivaju Mala Venecija, zajedno s prosvjede. Oštro su reagirale i ondašnje moćnoj Srpskoj banci svoj hotel „Bijeli kapelicom pored tog dvorca. Lerchova dubrovačke tiskovine, ali i Općinska dvorac“ u Lapadu, ali i svoje posjede namjera bila je da na tom mjestu izgradi uprava, te je vlasnik bio primoran naziv u Gružu i Rijeci dubrovačkoj. U hotel na način da staru gospodarsku hotela prevesti na hrvatski jezik – „Bijeli Dubrovniku se nalazila filijala Srpske zgradu „preustroji i preunaredi u dvorac“. Bio je to hotel I. reda sa 73 banke d.d. iz Zagreba (direktor je bio kuću za saobraćaj stranaca“, koja postelje, a svaka je soba imala tekuću Jovo Bravačić). Srpska banka je u isto bi „klimatičkim uplivima bolje vodu. vrijeme (1920.) postala vlasnik i Grand odgovarala“. U toj i takvoj njegovoj Međutim, Prvi svjetski rat bio je pred hotela Imperial u Dubrovniku. Novi nakani sve se je sabralo: i zdravstvena vratima. Ubojstvo austro-ugarskog vlasnik je hotel preuredio i umjesto komponenta budući da je i sam Lerch u prijestolonasljednika Franja Ferdinanda dotadašnjeg naziva „Bijeli dvorac“, Dubrovniku „spasa i ozdravljenja našao“ i njegove žene Sofije, 28. lipnja 1914. objekt dobija novo ime Grand hotel i vjera u turističku budućnost Grada. u Sarajevu, stvorilo je veliku napetost i Lapad. Tada iz Zagreba u Dubrovnik Postojala je, naravno, i nada u isplativost bilo je pitanje dana kada će rat početi. dolazi nova uprava hotela. Prvi direktor ulaganja. Tako je u kolovozu 1911. U teškim danima nesigurnosti i straha bio je Vaso Kotur, a njegov pomoćnik počela izgradnja budućeg hotela. Inače, zbog početka rata, Wilhelm Lerch se postaje Stevo Rubešić, koji nakon dvorac i kapelicu Wilhelm Lerch je povukao u svoj zavičaj, vratio kući u nekoliko godina rada u ovom hotelu zadržao za svoje privatno boravište i obje Beč, gdje je i umro u prosincu 1915. odlazi i otvara Kavanu „Manon“ na je građevine uredio prema zahtjevima i godine. Njegov sin i opunomoćeni Stradunu. Grand hotel Lapad počinje potrebama povijesne struke. Ti su radovi nasljednik Karl Lerch odmah po uspješno poslovati, postaje sve poznatiji bili završeni koncem studenog 1911. prestanku borbi na frontovima, u općoj hotelski objekt i daje svoj puni doprinos godine. Sama izgradnja hotela dugo smetenosti i zbog raspada Austro- razvoju dubrovačkog turizma onoga je trajala. Radovi su nekoliko puta bili Ugarske, a prije mirovnih konferencija, vremena.

40 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. Napisao Nikola Šubić

Domovinskoga rata došlo je do prekida turizma na dubrovačkom području, a kako je dogradnjom ovog hotela njegova kuhinja bila predviđena kao sklonište, hotel je prihvatio prognanike iz Župe dubrovačke, Konavala, Mokošice, Dubrovačkog primorja i susjednih kuća. Kao sklonište bio je u funkciji od 1. listopada 1991. do 1. ožujka 1993. godine. U tom razdoblju, u njemu je prosječno dnevno boravilo 496 prognanika. Za ponovno komercijalno poslovanje, nakon otklanjanja šteta i minimalne modernizacije, hotel je otvoren 12. lipnja 1993. godine. Do nove obnove Hotela Lapad dolazi 1996.godine.Danas se objekt nalazi u većinskom vlasništvu dubrovačkog brodara Atlantske plovidbe. Hotel Lapad iz godine u godinu postiže sve bolje turističke i poslovne rezultate i postaje značajan čimbenik turističkog razvoja Grada i regije. Otvoren je od Uskrsa do kraja listopada. Ima četiri zvjezdice. Dobitnik je brojnih nagrada i priznanja za svoj rad. Spomenimo Zlatnu medalju popularnog i bogatog Švedskog stola. Thomson Holidays za 2011. godinu, Rasformiranjem Poduzeća „Lokrum“ koju ovaj ugledni svjetski organizator 1954. godine u čijem je sastavu Grand putovanja dodjeljuje redovito svake hotel Lapad poslovao (Ugostiteljsko godine najboljim hotelima s kojima poduzeće „Lokrum“ osnovano je 1946.), posluje i surađuje. Temelj je anketa svaki hotel postaje poduzeće za sebe. njihovih gostiju koji ocjenjuju smještaj, Tada se podiže treći kat u starom dijelu sadržaje i usluge u svakom hotelu, ali i hotela, a ovaj objekt potom posluje ostale aspekte godišnjeg odmora – od u sastavu Ugostiteljskog poduzeća procesa rezervacija avio-prijevoza do „Lapad“, a sedamdesetih godina 20. usluga u zračnim lukama. stoljeća, u doba turističkog prosperiteta, Dubrovnik je ove godine dobio još Prepoznatljivost dolazi, političkom odlukom do jedan hotel koji obilježava stoljeće svog na ino – tržištu integracije turističke privrede, te se 1. postojanja i rada. U proteklih stotinu siječnja 1970. spajaju HP „Dubrovnik“ godina, Hotel Lapad je mnogo dao Nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata u i UP „Lapad“u jedinstvenu tvrtku turizmu kao djelatnosti, a to čini, na prostoru Grand hotela Lapad počinje HTP „Dubrovnik“. Ta je tvrtka 1976. najbolji mogući način i danas. Njegovi radom Niža ugostiteljska škola. Nakon s 23 OOUR-a pokrivala gotovo cijelo zaposlenici su iskusni i obrazovani adaptacije objekta 1949. godine, gosti područje tadašnje Općine Dubrovnik ugostitelji, koji vole i znaju svoj posao, hotela bili su studenti završne godine od Trpnja do Molunta. Godine 1986. a hotel doživljaju kao drugi dom. Veliku beogradskog Medicinskog fakulteta. dograđuje se novi dio ovog hotela zaslugu u svemu tome, zasigurno ima Hrana je bila isključivo suhomesnata (140 novih komfornih soba sa 278 i današnji direktor Željko Miletić, (riječ je o namirnicama koje su studenti kreveta), tako da danas ovaj objekt mladi menadžer ekonomske struke, koji donosili sa sobom). U gornjoj dvorani raspolaže s 380 postelja u 193 sobe. unatoč krizama i recesijama, uspješno hotela, iznad kuhinje, nalazio se stol s Od tada, pa sve do početka 1990., vodi Hotel Lapad što svjedoči i sve hranom i pićem, koji se nadopunjavao Hotel Lapad postiže odlične turističke veći interes Dubrovčana za rad u ovom tijekom cijelog dana, što bi se moglo rezultate i postaje prepoznatljiv na hotelu. Stogodišnjaku upućujemo nazvati skromnom pretečom današnjeg ino – tržištu. Godine 1991. početkom iskrene čestitke.

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 41 The Centenary of The Lapad Hotel (1914 – 2014)

ntil the beginning of World Lerch kept the mansion with the chapel renamed it the Lapad Grand Hotel. War I, the transport of as his private residence, and restored The hotel’s new management arrived Upassengers and tourists in them both in accordance with their from Zagreb. Its first manager was Vaso the Dubrovnik area took place almost original historic design. The restoration Kotur, while the assistant manager was exclusively in Dubrovnik. Two new works were completed late in November Stevo Rubešić, who - after spending hotels were opened at that time: the that same year. The construction of the several years working at the hotel - Odak Hotel (the present-day Excelsior hotel, however, lasted for a long time resigned and opened the Manon Café in Hotel) at Ploče, in 1913, and the Bijeli and the works were stopped on several the Stradun. The Lapad Grand Hotel Dvorac Hotel (the present-day Lapad occasions because of the proximity of began to run a successful business, Hotel) in the Lapad district, in 1914. It a gunpowder-magazine and the strict becoming more and more popular was in fact the construction and opening construction regulations in regard to and making a major contribution to of these hotels that laid the foundations that. The hotel was completed and Dubrovnik tourism at that time. for locating tourist facilities in the most opened on 23rd March 1914. It was attractive sites in Dubrovnik. named Weisses Schloss (the White Castle), which caused confusion, discontent and Recognizability public protests. The name also caused a on the foreign harsh reaction from the then Dubrovnik markets press and the municipal authorities, so the owner was forced to translate the After World War II, a Junior Level hotel’s German name into the Croatian Catering School was established within language: Bijeli dvorac. It was a first the complex of the Lapad Grand Hotel. class hotel with 73 beds, and each room After the renovation of the hotel in had running water. 1949, the hotel guests included final- year students of the Belgrade Faculty However, World War I was about of Medicine. The food consisted of Lapad to begin. The assassination of Franz smoked and cured meats only (which Grand Hotel Ferdinand, heir to the Austro- the students brought with them). In Hungarian throne, and his wife Sophie the hotel’s upper hall, situated above The idea of constructing a huge hotel on 28 June 1914 in Sarajevo caused the kitchen, there was a table with food in Lapad was launched in 1911. That great tension, and it was only a matter and beverages which was replenished year, the industrialist and landowner of days to when the war would begin. all day long, and which one might call Wilhelm Lerch arrived in Dubrovnik. During the difficult days of uncertainty a modest prototype of the nowadays He purchased an estate in Lapad and fear of the impending war, Wilhelm popular and rich Swedish Table. spreading from the sea to the Glavica Lerch returned to his homeland, and (hill top), which included the mansion died in his house in Vienna in December When the Lokrum Company (founded called locally “Little Venice” and the 1915. His son and heir Karl Lerch sold in 1946) - which also included the adjoining chapel. Lerch intended the hotel - along with his properties in Lapad Grand Hotel - closed down to build a hotel in this location and Gruž and Rijeka Dubrovačka - to the in 1954, each hotel became an “transform the old mansion into a then powerful Bank of Serbia at a price independent establishment. A third floor house for the accommodation of foreign of 1.200.000 Krona immediately after was then added to the old section of the visitors, which would be more suitable the end of fighting on all fronts, during hotel, which began operating within the climate-wise”. His intention actually the general confusion at the break-up Lapad Catering Company (Ugostiteljsko included all the major elements: the of Austro-Hungary, but also before the poduzeće Lapad). During Dubrovnik health component - in view of the fact beginning of peace conferences. There tourism’s boom period in the 1970s, that Lerch himself “found salvation was a branch office of the Zagreb-based the tourism industry became integrated and experienced restoration of health” Bank of Serbia in Dubrovnik, and Jovo as the result of a political decision. On in Dubrovnik - and his belief in the Bravačić served as its manager. At 1 January 1970, the Dubrovnik Hotel tourist future of the City. Of course, he that time (1920), the Bank of Serbia Company and the Lapad Catering also hoped to make a profit from his also became the owner of Dubrovnik’s Company merged into the Dubrovnik investment. The construction of the Grand Imperial Hotel. The new owner Hotel and Tourist Company (HTP hotel began in August of 1911. Wilhelm renovated the Bijeli Dvorac Hotel and Dubrovnik). In 1976, the company,

42 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. By Nikola Šubić consisting of 23 working units, operated it accommodated an average of 496 other aspects of their holiday – from in almost the entire region of the then refugees per day. After damage repair flight reservations to airport services. Dubrovnik Municipality from Trpanj and minimal modernization, the hotel So this year Dubrovnik has yet another to Molunat. In 1986, a new extension reopened on a commercial basis on 12 hotel celebrating its 100th anniversary. of the Lapad Grand Hotel was built June 1993. The next hotel renovation Over the last hundred years, the Lapad (140 well-furnished new rooms with took place in 1996. Today, the Lapad Hotel has made a major contribution to 278 beds), so that the hotel has 380 Hotel is majority owned by the the tourism industry, and continues to beds in 193 rooms today. From then Atlantska Plovidba Dubrovnik Shipping do so today in the best possible way. Its on, until the early 1990, the Lapad Company. Year in year out, the Lapad employees are skilled and well-educated Grand Hotel achieved excellent tourist Hotel achieves better and better tourist caterers, who love their jobs and are very results and became recognizable on and business results, having become a good at them, feeling the hotel to be the foreign markets. In 1991, at the major factor of tourist development in their second home. A great deal of credit beginning of the Croatian War of both the City and the region. for all this should be given to the hotel’s Independence, the tourism industry in current manager Željko Miletić. In the Dubrovnik region came to a halt. Open from Easter to the end of spite of crises and recessions, this young Since the design of the most recent hotel October, this four-star hotel holds economist successfully leads the Lapad extension had planned the kitchen to numerous awards and recognitions for Hotel as confirmed by the increasing double as a shelter, the Lapad Hotel its achievements, such as the 2011 Gold number of Dubrovnik people interested accommodated the refugees from Medal, which the world renowned tour in becoming employees of the hotel. Župa Dubrovačka, Konavle, Mokošica, operator Thomson Holidays presents We extend our most sincere Dubrovačko Primorje, as well as to its best partner hotels. This award congratulations to the centenarian. from the neighbouring houses. The is based on questionnaires giving hotel served as a bomb shelter from 1 the guests’ evaluation of their hotel October 1991 to 1 March 1993, when accommodation, facilities, services, and

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 43 Sokol Grad u Konavlima

„Postoji hridina jedna, Soko je tvrđava zvana, Na pustom mjestu pod brdom, i strši u nebo pravo.“ Sokol grad There is a cliff they call Fort Soko, Lying in a bleak place beneath a mountain and

o su početni stihovi poeme velika cisterna, „rupe“ za čuvanje žita, jutting up into the O Epidauru proslavljenog kastelanov stan s ognjištem, crkva, skies above. Tdubrovačkog renesansnog kanonikov stan, kovačnica i krušna pjesnika i humanista Ilije Crijevića, peć. Imao je Sokol grad svog kastelana najpoznatijeg kastelana Sokola, koji je (upravitelja), svoju posadu, pravila hese are the opening verses tamo službovao početkom 16. stoljeća, službe, naoružanje - najprije hladno, of a poem about Epidaurus a izvrsnim je prikazom krajobraza a onda vatreno, rasvjetu, disciplinu i Tby the celebrated Dubrovnik opisao Sokol grad kod sela Dunave kazne, ali i suverenitet, pa se tako 1450. Renaissance poet, humanist and famed u Gornjoj bandi na slikovit način, jer godine na Sokol šalje platnena zastava Fort Soko castellan, Ilija Crijević, Sokol je „strašan i moćan vrlo i pogledu svetoga Vlaha što će se za svečanih dana who served there in the early 16th ljudskom golem“. vijati na vrhu tvrđave. century. He gave an outstanding scenic Sokol grad izgrađen je pradavno, Dubrovačke Republika aktivno description of Sokol Grad, located close na nekad nepristupačnoj, više od je koristila tvrđavu za obranu od to the village of Dunave in the hilly 25 metara visokoj stijeni, prirodnoj neprijatelja, kako moćnog takmaca part of Konavle, claiming that Sokol is tvrđavi, na izvrsnom strateškom mjestu Mletačke Republike, tako i Osmanlija, «dreadful and mighty, and huge in the što kontrolira glavnu prometnicu sve do završetka Kandijskog rata, sight of man”. koja iz Konavala vodi na sjever u a dubrovačka vojska napustila ju je današnju Hercegovinu i untrašnjost nakon 1672. godine. Slijede tri stoljeća Sokol Grad was built many centuries Balkana, stoga je taj lokalitet njezinog propadanja. Ali, Dubrovnik ago, on a once inaccessible cliff, over kontinuirano naseljen od prapovijesti ima svoje Društvo prijatelja dubrovačke 25 metres high. Situated in a perfect do danas, o čemu svjedoče brojni starine, koje stječe Sokol, ili ono što je strategic spot, this natural fortress arheološki nalazi prapovijesne gradine, od njega ostalo, 1966. godine. Obnovu controlled the main road leading from antičke i kasnoantičke utvrde, kao i je započeo legendarni konzervator, Konavle to the north, towards present- srednjovjekovnog grada koji u posjed Lukša Beritić, utemeljitelj Društva, day Herzegovina and the interior Dubrovčana definitivno dolazi 1423. krajem pedesetih godina 20. stoljeća. Balkans. This is the reason why this godine. Sokol tvrđava doista funkcionira Potrajala je oko pola stoljeća, te je area has been continuously inhabited kao grad. Tlocrtno je nepravilnog najposlije, najviše zaslugom tajnika from prehistoric times right up to oblika, prateći morfologiju terena na ovog Društva, Nika Kapetanića, today, as testified to by the numerous kojem je podignut, a ima tri razine travnja 2013. godine u cjelosti archaeological finds of prehistoric ruins, utvrđenja. Najniži i najmlađi na položaju obnovljena tvrđava svečano i otvorena strongholds from the time of Antiquity je Kamen, gdje je 1477. obzidan za javnost sa svim svojim spomeničkim and late-Antiquity, as well as by this prostor za potrebe zbjega okolnog zanimljivostima, muzejskim postavom, medieval town which became the stanovništva. Druga razina je predziđe, u punoj, impozantnoj ljepoti i veličini, property of the Dubrovnik Republic gdje se nalazilo spremište za hranu, s veličanstvenim pogledom na cijeli in 1423. Sokol Fort indeed functioned kuća za smještaj plaćeničke vojske, pitomi konavoski kraj. as a town. Its layout is irregular in kuhinjsi prostor, kuća samostrijelaca Na ponos Konavljana, Društva, i svih shape and follows the morphology - oružnika, stražarska kula i sanitarni Dubrovčana, postao je Sokol grad, s of the terrain upon which it is built, čvor. Na najvišem su dijelu, na gornojoj uređenim pristupnim komunikacijama, i and has three levels of defence. The tvrđavi, citadeli - najvažniji sadržaji: prvorazredna turistička atrakcija. lowest and most recent one is situated

44 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. Sokol Grad (Falcon City) in Konavle Napisala / By Maja Nodari Sokol grad

in the Kamen locality, where a walled area that served as a shelter for local people was constructed in 1477. On the second, outer wall level, there was storage for food, houses for mercenaries, a kitchen, a house for crossbow men – gendarmes, a watch tower and latrines. The top-most level, the upper fortress, or citadel, was the place where the most important facilities were located: a large water cistern, „pits“ for storing grain, the castellan’s flat with a fireplace, a church, the canon’s flat, a smithy and a baker’s oven. Sokol Grad used to have its castellan (fort commander), its garrison, rules of service, weaponry - cold steel at first and later fire- arms, its lighting, discipline, punishments, but also its sovereignty. Thus, in 1450, a canvas flag of St Blaise was sent to the fort and was flown on the top of the fort during festive days. The Dubrovnik Republic actively used the fort to protect itself against enemies, from its mighty rivals - the Venetian Republic and the Ottoman Empire – up to the end of the Candian War. After the Dubrovnik army left Fort Soko in 1672, the fort experienced society, Lukša Beritić, commenced the three centuries of decay. restoration of the fort, which took about half a century. Thanks primarily to the fort offers a breathtaking view of the Fortunately, Dubrovnik nowadays has society’s secretary, Niko Kapetanić, entire gentle Konavle region. The Friends of Dubrovnik Antiquity the completely restored fort was With its well maintained access roads, Society, which came into possession of ceremoniously opened to the public Sokol Grad has become a first class Fort Soko - or what remained of it - in in April 2013. Boasting monumental tourist attraction, much to the pride of 1966. In the late 1950s, the legendary attractions and museum exhibits, this people of Konavle, the Society and all conservationist and founder of the imposingly beautiful and magnificent the residents of Dubrovnik.

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 45 amislite iznenađenje japanske princeze Masako i princa ZNaruhita kada su prilikom posjeta Konavlima čuli priču o domaćoj proizvodnji svilenog konca kojim su izvezeni najljepši dijelovi veličanstvene nošnje ovoga kraja. Prinčevski par, zemlje koja je bila

blagoslov u crkvu, a potom stavljaju u toplinu njedara na nekoliko dana. inicijatorica Muzeja svile na jugu Svako jutro žene su provjeravale je Hrvatske. li iz jajašca izašla gusjenica, jedna od najvećih proizvođača svile - Proizvodnja svile u Konavlima je a kada bi vidjele da na svijetu, ostao je zatečen tradicijom isključivo proizvodnja konca koji jest, krpu bi položile i „svilenom baštinom“ njima dalekog, Svila služi za vezu i izvođenje Konavlima različitih na „jesu“ na koju bi i posve nepoznatog kraja, u kojemu dekoracija po narodnoj nošnji, se stavili freški mali živi desetak tisuća duša u tridesetak no kako se vjerovalo u njezinu listići murve na koje sela, a pokazanim interesom za priču moć iscjeljenja i zaštite, ukrasi bi se tek izlegle bubice o obnovljenoj tradiciji uzgoja svilenih od svile na nošnji poprimili su, odmah popele. Tako bubica produljili su vrijeme boravka osim dekorativnog, i puno šire bi započeo njihov ciklus u ateljeu slikarice Antonie Rusković značenje za žene u Konavlima. hranjenja koji traje sljedećih Radonić zadavši najviše glavobolje Vrijeme je protjecalo, nošnje su se 28 dana. U tom periodu one osiguranju zbog kršenja strogo spremale u škrinje i izvlačile tek za jedu i ubrzano rastu spavajući planiranog protokola. posebne prigode. Priče o svilenim četiri dana. To su dani u kojima bubicama, koje su se grijale u - Konavle svjedoče dugu tradiciju miruju visoko podignute glave i uzgoja svilene bubice za ženskim njedrima, prenosile su se s ne jedu, zahtijevaju mir i tišinu, proizvodnju svilenog konca. baka na unuke tek kao zanimljivost te se do večeri izvuku iz stare Pretpostavlja se da je svila stigla na iz prošlosti sve do Domovinskoga kože. Sutradan nastavljaju ovo područje u 7.st. u vrijeme kad rata u kojemu su Konavle razorene, jesti do sljedećeg razdoblja se rasprostranila po Mediteranu. spaljene, opljačkane. Veliko spavanja – pripovijeda Dubrovačka Republika je etnografsko blago i bogatstvo je Antonia. Dvadeset u nekoliko navrata poticala nestalo. Među njima i prelijepe i osmog dana jedu proizvodnju svile, znamo da je nošnje koje je imala svaka najviše, od jutra postojala i predionicu na Pločama. konavoska kuća. Tada je ponovno do mraka, da bi U Konavlima proizvodnja svile zaživjela priča o bubicama. Iz mogle krenuti u nije nikad zaživjela kao industrija, Francuske su nabavljena jajašca zavijanje. Konavoke nego je uvijek ostala na kućnoj dudova svilca,pa je u Konavlima su oko „jese“ plele proizvodnji i domaćoj radinosti obnovljena ta divna tradicija i žukvu i granje po kojima obrade konca. Taj posao je proizvodnja svilenog konca. Danas bi se bubice razmilile i isplele pripadao mladim djevojkama se time bavi desetak konavoskih svoje kukuljice, punčele. U svom i djevojčicama do udaje, jer je obitelji. novom domu žive 15 dana dok svila bila najvažniji materijal u - A, priča o bubicama počinje u ne završe metamorfozu u leptira. pripremi djevojačkoga ruha – proljeće, kad list murve naraste do Petnaesti dan leptir izlazi, traži svoju priča Antonia Rusković Radonić, veličine uha od miša. Tada se uzimaju družicu s kojom će se spojiti i u slikarica i uzgajivačica svilene jajašca bubica koja su zimovala na „zagrljaju“ ostati dva dana. Leptiri, bubice, zaljubljenica u svoj kraj, hladnom i suhom mjestu i nose na odnosno moljci dudovog svilca, ne

46 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. Napisala Lidija Crnčević

lete, nemaju probavni sustav, i vrlo pepelom i vodom, danas sapunom. kratko žive, toliko da polože jajašca Nakon toga bi se motala na motovilo za sljedeću generaciju bubica. i odvajala u pasme, zavisno čemu je Zima je vrijeme kad se proizvodi i trebala, te bi se bojala za dekoriranje obrađiva konac, to je oduvijek bilo nošnje. Sirove, nebojane svile se vrijeme kad nema puno posla u uvijek ostavljalo u kući, za šivanje polju, dani su kratki, a noći duge. rana i za podvezivanje pupka u To je i vrijeme rezervirano za festu novorođenih beba. Svaka djevojka točenja svile u ognjištu ili kominu. je do udaje za svoje ruho morala U poslu izvlačenja svile nije bilo spremiti dvadesetak i više poprsnica mjesta za muškarce, tu bi starije s pripadajućim rukavima koje je žene s djevojkama provodile sate izvezla od domaće svile. točenja svile uz pjesmu, molitvu - Konavoski vez na poprsnici razvio i učenje, proizvodeći svoje zlato s je likovni jezik, te su nam određeni kojim će se udati i proživjeti ostatak motivi koji su se vezli govorili sve o života. Govorilo se da se iz veza ženi koja ih nosi. Iz veza se moglo djevojaka moglo znati što je tada pročitati je li žena udata, siromašna, pjevala. Nakon toga, uslijedilo bi bogata, ide li na slavlje ili u polje, pranje svile, u prijašnjem vremenu s je li udovica.... Blago informacija sačuvano je u dekoraciji veza koji se kao takav nosi samo u Konavlima. Svila u Konavlima On je divna osobna karta malog naroda s juga Hrvatske – zaključuje Antonia.

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 47 of silk in Konavle never became an industry, surviving only in local households. It was the job of young girls before they got married, because silk was the most important material for bridal clothes – explains Antonia Rusković Radonić, painter, silkworm breeder, lover of her country and initiator of the Silk Museum in the south of Croatia. the restored tradition of silkworm breeding, and extended their visit The production of silk in Konavle is magine the surprise of the to the studio of the painter Antonia actually the production of silk thread Japanese Princess Masako and Rusković Radonić, changing the only, which is used for embroidery IPrinceSilk Naruhito, who – during strictly planned protocol and causing and various decorations on the folk their visitSilk to Konavle – heard a story a headache for their security. inin KonavleKonavle costume. However, people used to about the local production of silk believe that silk had the power to thread which is used to embroider - Konavle has a long tradition heal and protect, so silk ornaments the most beautiful parts of the of silkworm breeding for the on the folk costume had – in addition magnificent folk costumes of the area. production of silk thread. Silk is to its decorative role – a much The royal couple from the country believed to have arrived in the wider significance for the women which used to be one of the world’s area in the 7th century, at the of Konavle. As time went by, folk major silk producers was astonished time when it spread through the costumes were kept in chests, and by the tradition and «silk heritage» of Mediterranean. The Dubrovnik taken out only on special occasions. this faraway area they knew nothing Republic encouraged silk Stories about silkworms being kept about, with some thirty villages and production on several occasions, warm next to women’s bosoms about ten thousand inhabitants. and we know that a spinnery were passed on by grandmothers to They wished to learn more about existed at Ploče. The production their grandchildren just as a historic

48 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. By Lidija Crnčević

not eating, requiring peace and prepare her dowry including some quiet. By nightfall, they shed their twenty or more poprsnica (decorative old skin, and the following morning embroidery on the bodice insert of continued to eat till the next women’s folk costume) with matching sleeping period – says Antonia. On embroidery on the sleeves made from the 28th day they ate the most, from home-made silk. morning till evening, in order to begin spinning their cocoons. The - The Konavle embroidery on women of Konavle placed Spanish the poprsnica developed its own broom and twigs around the wattle visual language, so that particular frame for the worms to climb on embroidered motifs revealed and start to spin their cocoons. everything about the woman They lived in their new homes for who wore them. The embroidery 15 days before completing their showed whether the woman was metamorphosis into butterflies. On married, poor or rich, whether she the 15th day the butterflies left the was about to go to a celebration curiosity right up until the Croatian cocoon and searched for mates, in or to the field, whether she was a War of Independence, when Konavle whose «embrace» they remained widow… A wealth of information was destroyed, burned down and for two days. The butterflies, i.e. has been preserved in the plundered. The huge ethnographic moths cannot fly. They do not have ornaments of this embroidery, wealth disappeared, including the digesting systems and live briefly, which is worn exclusively in beautiful folk costumes which every yet long enough to lay ova for the Konavle. It is an amazing identity house in Konavle possessed. And next generation. card of this little nation in the south then, the story of the silkworm of Croatia – says Antonia. came back to life. Silkworm ova Silk thread was produced and were provided from France and the processed in winter, the time when wonderful tradition of silk thread there wasn’t much work in the field, production in Konavle was revived. when days were short and nights Nowadays, some ten families of long. This time was also reserved for Konavle are engaged in the trade. the silk extracting ceremony which took place by the fireplace or in - The silkworm story began in the kitchen. Extracting silk was not spring, when the leaves of mulberry men’s work. Older women and girls trees reach the size of a mouse’s spent many hours reeling the silk ear. After spending winter in a threads off, which was accompanied cool and dry place, the silkworm by singing, praying and studying. ova were taken to the church for They thus produced their «gold», blessing, after which they were which would accompany them to kept warm in women’s bosoms their wedding and remain with them for several days. Every morning for the rest of their lives. They used SilkSilk the women checked whether to say that one could tell from a girl’s inin KonavleKonavle caterpillars had hatched from the embroidery the very song she was ova. When they did, the women singing at that time. After that, silk placed a piece of cloth on a wattle used to be washed with ashes and frame (locally called jesa) covered water, while nowadays they do it with with young mulberry tree leaves, soap. Silk threads were afterwards on to which the newly hatched reeled up on spools and divided worms climbed immediately. That into bundles, depending on their is when the feeding cycle began, purpose, and dyed for decorating folk which lasted 28 days. Within that costumes. Raw and undyed silk was period, they ate and grew rapidly, always kept at home for stitching up sleeping for four days. These were wounds and tying off the umbilical the days which silkworms spent cords of new born babies. Before resting, with their heads high up, she got married, each girl had to

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 49 Ribanje i ribarsko prigovaranje

ok zimi opušteno šetate - Evo, i jutros sam uhvatio palamidu, Najviše voli ribati na gavune, mrežom gradskim portom, a Grad skoro 2 kila je bilo u njoj. U 5.30 gavunarom. Zanimljivo je jer je to brzo Dsniva, sve biva nekako već sam bio na na moru, učinio đir ribanje. Obavlja se u točno određeno drugačije, nekako deja vu. Smirujući do Belvedera, u 6.30 sam se vratio vrijeme,u sumrak gavun dođe na prizor ribara koji raspliću mreže vrati pa otišao na posao. Zimi hvatam pojedina mjesta noćiti, to se mjesto vas na trenutak u prošlo vrijeme pa lijepe velike palamide, na proljeće zagradi s mrežom i onda se on poplaši. zaboravite da se riba na peskariji odavno ukjate,širune, lokarde, zaneseno o svom Riba počne bježati pa uleti u mrežu ne prodaje, a i da je ribara sve manje. hobiju priča Milo Gangai. koja se odmah vadi. U pola sata sve je Ali, ima ih još, a jedan od onih koji gotovo. Osim kad je ribe puno, tad se svakodnevno ribaju za svoju dušu je satima vadi iz mora...Najdraže mu je, i Milo Gangai. Rođen je i odrastao u Još se sjeća lampuge od 8,5 kilograma ipak,zaribati na kalamuću s kraja, a Karmenu, u zidinama, a od kuće do koju je uhvatio ispred Vile Dubrovnik, i njemu je pak najdraže s “kraja” otoka barke u staroj gradskoj luci dođe za pet to na najlon 0,28 mm, malom udicom... Lokruma koji se prostire ispred Grada minuta, pa ne čudi da mu je more u znalci će razumjeti o čemu govori. Borio kao rajski zeleni vrt. krvi. se s njom više od pola sata. Sjeća se i false ribice ,imitacije vrnuta na koju je Od 365 dana u godini barem 200 puta uhvatio stotinu polanda, bila je izgrižena zoru dočekam u barci-kaže dok nam i izjedena, a i dalje je hvatala.... pokazuje barku. Duga je pet metara, a iznad mreža, bidona,kašeta, konopa Popodne pođe na olignje. Dvije su na provi vijori barjak svetoga Vlaha, tehnike ribanja: prva, peškafondo s dubrovačkoga zaštitnika. Počeo je ribat “mjesta” se riba u dubinu od tridesetak „ko“ dijete, s kalamućom na Malom metara. Druga: u sumrak, kad oliganj mulu, dok nije nabavio barku. Riba dođe blizu kraja, onda se penduliža, cijeli život, zna sve poste i stađune, vuče se ribica falsa. Ima ih cijele godine, ribarske alate. Zimi slabo baca mreže, ali najbolje od jeseni do Božića. Nekad najviše penduliža. uhvati 4 -5 kilograma, bude bokuna i od kila....No, nije tip od količine. Dodaje, najbolji je ribar uporni ribar.

Mreže baca na proljeće i jesen, i podsjeća da je dopušteno 200 metara mreže, čega se strogo pridržava.Ljeti se ne može ribat, surgo bi ti tko sidro u mreže, kaže misleći pri tome na prometnu gužvu ispred starog porta-kruzere,tendere koji prevoze putnike, usidrene jahte,gumenjake...

50 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. Napisala Sandra Lacković Ribanje i ribarsko prigovaranje

Milo Gangai učenicima srednje Pomorske škole predaje praksu. Najesen odlazi u mirovinu. Veselio se misleći da će se u trećoj životnoj dobi moći posvetiti ribanju. No, novi Zakon o malom ribolovu to će mu onemogućiti. Ogorčen je jer su oko toga pregovarali političari, a ne stručnjaci, a na taj se način neće sačuvati riblji fond. Odlazak na more pod stare dane život mu znači, a sada mu se to uskraćuje. Cijeli život ima sve potrebne dozvole, pridržava se pravila, poštuje zakone. Želi samo ući u barku bez straha da će ga netko oglobiti.

Često ga ljeti turisti fotografiraju. Njegova barka, pod barjakom svetoga Vlaha, u potpunoj suprotnosti s modernim plovilima, koja okupiraju dubrovački akvatorij, turistička je atrakcija. Sjeća se i komentara jednog Splićanina: „Trebali bi od Grada dobiti potporu jer turisti mogu vidjeti ono što „nigdi“ nema....“ Hoće li od sljedeće godine i toga nestati, pita se Milo Gangai, dok se spravlja na još jedno ribanje.

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 51 andFishing Fishermen’s G ripes

hile you stroll leisurely - This morning too, I caught a bonito weigh one kilogram... However, he through the old harbour weighing almost two kg. I was doesn’t care about quantity, claiming Win winter time, and the already at sea by 5.30 am, went as that the best fisherman is a patient City is slumbering, everything seems far as the Belvedere, returned home fisherman. to be different, and you have that deja by 6.30, and then went to work. vu experience. The relaxing sight of In winter I catch nice big bonitos, Milo Gangai casts his nets in spring and the fishermen disentangling their nets and in spring black-tailed sea autumn. He adds that the use of 200 brings back bygone times for a moment, bream, horse mackerels and Spanish metre nets is allowed, and he strictly and you forget that they stopped selling mackerels – says Milo Gangai, obeys the regulation. I cannot fish in fish at the fish market a long time ago, describing his hobby enthusiastically. summer, because someone might drop and that their number is constantly his anchor in my net - explains Milo, falling. However, there are still a few He still remembers a lampuga fish alluding to the busy traffic in front of left, and one of those who fish for their weighing 8,5 kg, which he caught in the old harbour, cruise ships, tenders own pleasure on a daily basis is Milo front of the Villa Dubrovnik with a 0,28 for transporting passengers, anchored Gangai. He was born in the area of mm thick nylon rope and a small fish- yachts and rubber dinghies. Karmen, within the city walls, and his hook... fishing buffs will know what he’s Catching smelts with a specialised net boat in the old city harbour is only a five talking about. He was battling with is what he likes best. It is interesting minute walk away from his home. It is the fish for more than half an hour. He because it is quick fishing and takes thus not surprising that the sea is in his also remembers a lure that resembled place at a specific time - at sunset, when blood. a mackerel, which he used as bait and with which he caught hundreds of smelts come to overnight in particular Out of the 365 days in the year, I await bonitos. It was all bitten and chewed up spots. Blocked off by a net, the smelts the dawn in my boat at least 200 times, but it still caught fish... become frightened and try to escape, explains Milo while showing us his boat. but they run into the net which is pulled It is five metres long, and the flag of In the afternoon, he catches squid. out immediately. Everything is over in St Blaise, Dubrovnik’s patron saint, is There are two catching techniques. The half an hour, except when there is plenty fluttering on its bow, above fishing nets, first, locally called peškafondo (bottom of fish, which then take hours to take canisters, crates and ropes. While still fishing), is catching fish on the spot at a out of the sea. However, Milo’s favourite a child, he began to fish with a fishing depth of some thirty metres. The second style of fishing is with a rod, i.e., rod at Mali Muo, before he got himself a one, penduližanje, is used at sunset, when fishing from the shore, and his favourite boat. He has been fishing his entire life, squid come close to the coast and a lure location is the Island of Lokrum, and knows all the good fishing locations, is pulled. One can catch them the whole situated in front of the City like a green seasons and types of fishing tackle. In year round, but the best time is from garden of paradise. winter time he seldom casts his nets, autumn to Christmas. Milo sometimes and mostly drags a lure. catches 4 – 5 kilograms, and some squid

52 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. By Sandra Lacković

andFishing Fishermen’s G ripes

Milo Gangai is a teacher of work experience at the Nautical High School, and this autumn he’s retiring. He was looking forward to dedicating himself to fishing in his golden years. However, the new Small-Scale Fishing Law will prevent him from doing that. He is embittered because the law was negotiated by politicians, and not by experts, and is thus incapable of protecting fish stock. Going to the sea in his old age means everything to him, and now he is denied it. All his life he made sure he obtained all the necessary permits and obeyed the rules and regulations. All he wants now is to get into his boat without the fear of being fined.

In summertime, tourists often take photographs of Milo. Under the flag of St Blaise, his boat - which looks completely different from the modern boats occupying the waters of Dubrovnik - is a tourist attraction. He remembers a comment from a man from Split: “the City of Dubrovnik should grant you a subsidy, because tourists can see here something they cannot see anywhere else“. Will this disappear next year? - asks Milo Gangai, while preparing to go fishing yet again.

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 53 Dubrovačka gastronomija od tradicije do suvremenosti

GastroGastro

lužbeni zapisi iz doba Republike, Originalnost i specifičnost jela Jela dubrovačkog kraja pripremala su se književna djela dubrovačkih dubrovačkog kraja uvjetovana su, i gotovila uglavnom uvijek od živežnih Sautora i tradicijska predaja između ostalog, tradicijom obrazovanja, namirnica koje su nudili more i zemlja iz omogućili su nam da, prateći razvoj katoličkom vjerom, blagom klimom, neposrednog okruženja. Od namirnica trendova u gastronomiji, spoznamo izborom živežnih namirnica te utjecajem životinjskog podrijetla u srednjem kako i što su jeli stari Dubrovčani, te susjednih naroda i njihove kulture vijeku na više mjesta spominju se meso vrijednost gastronomije kao sastavnog prehrane. Dubrovnik je uvijek bio teletine, teleći jezik, janjetina, kapuni, dijela dubrovačkog kulturnog naslijeđa. kozmopolitski grad što je ostavilo kokoši, golubovi, prepelice i pračevina Slijedom tih spoznaja danas pratimo, tragove u običajima i gastronomskoj (svinjetina) te jela kao što su Punjeni gradimo i razvijamo našu gastronomsku kulturi. Tako se multikulturalna pečeni kapun iz Župe, Jetrica od kapuna baštinu, osluškujući želje i potrebe komponenta dubrovačkog naslijeđa sa škalonjom, Pečeni golubovi iz Brgata, suvremenog čovjeka za zdravom, ocrtava i u dominantanom utjecaju Dubrovački pastić, Menestra, ... uravnoteženom i izvornom prehranom. talijanske kuhinje kojoj je preteča bila venecijanska kuhinja. Spominje se više vrsta ribe i morskih Dubrovnik svoju svjetsku razinu plodova. Svakodnevno, radnim danom, prepoznatljivosti duguje prvenstveno Stvorena na sjecištu geopolitičkih i najčešće se jela manja plava riba koja je kulturnom identitetu. Nekadašnja sociokulturnih prostora, dubrovačka bila uobičajena hrana siromašnijeg puka. pomorska sila i trgovački centar regije, gastronomija sačuvala je originalnost, Bolji i veći komadi ribe i morski plodovi Dubrovnik je bio primjer mjere, sklada, a svoju jedinstvenost, privlačnost i bili su jela na bogatijim trpezama i u estetike i etike. Uz razvoj gospodarstva, prepoznaljivost našla u miješanju posebnim prigodama. Na primjer, bilježi stari Dubrovnik razvijao je i vlastitu raznih, posve suprotnih ukusa i utjecaja. se jedna takva posebna prigoda u XV. kulturu, usklađivajući načine življenja Dubrovačka kuhinja odmjereno je stoljeću, za posjeta pape Pia II., kad su i tradiciju. Put ovog razvoja očituje se začinjena, jednostavna i zdrava, pritom se služila posebna jela od najkvalitetnije kako u području povijesti umjetnosti lišena prizvuka banalnosti i primitivnog. ribe kao što su komarče, zubaci, škrpine, tako i u gastronomiji, odnosno načinu Svojim odlikama je vrlo zanimljiva i jegulje i lubini. Najčešća jela od ribe gotovljenja jela, posluživanja i ponašanja primamljiva suvremenom čovjeku. koja se spominje su Sušena butarga od za stolom. cipola s Pelješca, Pečene gere s Mrkane.

54 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. Napisao Josip Žuvela No, plodovi mora ni približno župskim i pelješkim vinima, koja su aspekata: obuhvaća razvojni pojam nisu okosnica gastronomske slike jednostavno neusporediva: simbol su suvremene gastronomije koji je podložan Dubrovnika i njegovog kraja. Tu Mediterana, zdravlja i gastronomskog neprestanim promjenama kao i načine su plodovi zemlje i sunca, odnosno užitka. kako se prilagoditi tim promjenama s brojne vrste ukusnog povrća: artičoke, pozicije lokalne kuhinje – kako osmisliti, balančane, šparoge, bob, pupatori i U Dubrovačkoj Republici posebno je formulirati i prezentirati našu ponudu, razne vrste kupusa. Na «Jestveniku» bilo cijenjeno vino Malvasija. Pila su a da bude aktualna, zanimljiva i da (jelovniku) od 17. siječnja 1756. godine se i druga kvalitetna vina kao što su: korespondira s trendovima suvremene (mjesto nečitko) spominje se razno voće, a Maraština s Mljeta, Grk iz Lumbarde, gastronomije. najčešće šipci, pipuni, smokve, čičimak, Rukatac iz Smokvice, Pošip iz Čare. đenerika i krivaja. Prema Statutu (matrikuli) Sv. Julujana i Poštujući ekonomske mjere, uvjete Aromatično i ljekovito bilje s Martina iz 1556. godine, zbog izuzetne u kojima se djeluje i živi, profit koji okolnih brda kao što su anis, šafran, kvalitete grožđa stanovnici Žuljane svoj je postao smisao rada i poslovanja u ruta, ružmarin, lovorika, mažuran, su doprinos Dubrovačkoj Republici današnjem hotelijerstvu i ugostiteljstvu, kopriva, menta peperita (paprena davali isključivo u crvenom vinu koje treba dubrovačku gastronomiju metvica), bosiljak, metvica, majčina se odvozilo u Knežev dvor. Ta tradicija sačuvati prepoznatljivom u svojoj dušica i kapare, uvijek se koristilo u bijelih i crvenih vina na ovim prostorima poruci i sadržaju. Što čini suvremenu kompletiranju i obogaćivanju izvornih nastavljena je i danas, s većim brojem gastronomsku ponudu Dubrovnika i jela. To su ekološki izvorni začini, a kvalitetnih vina, mahom s pelješkog na koji način se stvara i održava, te u ujedno nezamjenjive temeljne značajke područja. kojoj mjeri njeguje tradicijske postavke? prepoznatljivosti jela ovog kraja. U Mogu li se još uopće naći tragovi Gastro mnogim jelima prepoznaje se to ekološki I umjetnička djela neposredno govore izvorne dubrovačke gastronomije u Gastro mirisno bilje koje i danas pokazuje o društvenom životu jednog naroda, nepreglednom, sverastućem broju izvornost dubrovačke gastronomske pa tako i književna djela dubrovačkih ugostiteljskih karti Grada Dubrovnika? tradicije. pisaca reflektiraju dubrovačku društvenu Može li se u današnjem vremenu Kad se govori o izboru živežnih stvarnost. Djela Držića, Gundulića govoriti o gastronomiji kao sastavnoj namirnica, one su se uvijek koristile i Vojnovića pružaju uvid u ondašnja komponenti lokalnog kulturnog u onom godišnjem dobu kad su i gastronomska načela i u ulogu jela i identiteta ili se radi o dodatnoj prispijevale, a jela od tih namirnica bila pića u životu. Gospodsko obilje koje vrijednosti turističke industrije čija se su prilagođena kršćanskim blagdanima. poziva na uživanje otkriva raskošni Kako su tijekom godine dolazili razni tanjur – gastronomsko je remek djelo u kršćanski blagdani (Sv. Vlaho, Pokladi, Pometovu monologu («Dundo Maroje»). Čista srijeda, Korizma, Uskrs, Tijelovo, Taj «pjat» vrhunac je sklada i ljepote Velika Gospa, Mala Gospa, Advent, raznolikosti delicija koje djeluju na sva Božićno doba i Božić) postojali su i razni čovjekova osjetila, bude emocije i vode običaji koji su u sebi sadržavali pisana do ekstatičnog ushita. U Gundulićevoj i nepisana pravila što jesti, kada jesti i Tireni epikurejstvo u jelu i piću otkrivaju koliko jesti. Od prigodnih desertnih likovi satira Vuka i gorštaka «...bez vina jela spominju se hrostule, prikle, i kruha ljubav je smrznuta» dok se u kontonjata, mantala, krema od rogača, Vojnovićevoj Trilogiji ta gastronomska marcapan, pandišpanj, zahare, mladi «ponuda» smanjuje što je odraz propasti sir iz Majkova s medom od kadulje, ali dubrovačke vlastele. i druga. Poštivanje blagdana može se Dubrovačka gastronomija od slobodno nazvati i gastronomski put po Pometa do danas prošla je kroz godišnjim dobima. Naravno, ti putevi velike promjene koje su većinom bile nezaobilazno su zalijevani poznatim izazvane prilagodbama rastućem konavoskim, župskim i pelješkim vinima turističkom tržištu. Turizam je postao i maslinovim uljem. osnovna mono-gospodarska grana Općenito, govoriti o Dubrovačkoj Dubrovnika koja je uzrokovala gastronomiji bez vina i maslinovog ulja čitav niz transformacija i adaptacija bio bi uistinu propust. Ništa nije ravno gastronomske ponude. Današnja tim tekućinama, naročito konavoskim, gastronomija vrlo je slojevita iz nekoliko

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 55 Dubrovačka gastronomija od tradicije do suvremenosti lokalne namirnice pripremljene na stvoren po načelu i za načelo malo-je- autentično dubrovački način. Iskustvo lijepo što se itekako može primijeniti u originalnog zamjenjuje se iskustvom osmišljavanju suvremene gastronomske poznatog tj. svojevrsnim podilaženjem ponude. Uostalom, upravo to načelo i konvencionalnim ukusima, te se na jest jedina stvarna i održiva poveznica taj način zatiru poticaji i mogućnosti tradicijskog Dubrovnika sa suvremenim. za rekreiranjem istinski dubrovačkog pjata. Pritom treba napomenuti da suvremena gastronomija traži inovacije u svojim proizvodima te da se velik broj tradicionalnih jela dubrovačke gastronomije lako može modificirati uloga valorizira isljučivo u materijalnom u skladu s trendovima suvremene profitu? Na ova pitanja teško je dati gastronomije. Renesansna jela iz doba jednostavan odgovor, ali svakako ih Marina Držića ili druga slična jela ne se mora držati na umu u planiranju možemo ponekad u izvornom obliku ugostiteljskog obrazovanja i djelatnosti onog vremena ponuditi gostu 21. Dubrovnika. stoljeća. Ali, ta jela se vrlo lako mogu reinterpretirati u novom vremenu Globalizacija je donijela svoje prednosti pazeći da ta djelomična transformacija i mane – Dubrovnik se reafirmirao kao ne naruši, ne ošteti osnovni habit, turističko središte Jadrana i Mediterana prepoznatljivost i izvornu poruku jela. kojeg posjećuju milijuni turista Gastro godišnje, međutim, malo je vjerojatno Dubrovnik je po svom kultiviranom, da ti milijuni posjetitelja konzumiraju prirodnom i ekološkom habitusu

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56 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. Dubrovnik Gastronomy from Tradition to the Present Day By Josip Žuvela heavy nor too sweet, the Dubrovnik cuisine is moderately seasoned, simple and healthy, yet devoid of banal and primitive overtones. The characteristics of the Dubrovnik cuisine make it interesting and attractive, particularly where the demands and needs of modern man are concerned.

The majority of dishes from the Dubrovnik area were always prepared from food-stuffs provided by the nearby sea and land. Food of animal origin mentioned several times in the Middle ages included (apart from other kinds of meat) veal, veal tongue, lamb’s meat, capon, chicken, pigeons, quail and pork, e were able to discover influence of neighbouring nations as well as dishes such as Stuffed roasted what the people of old and their food culture. Dubrovnik capon from Župa, Capon liver with scallions, Dubrovnik used to eat and has always been a cosmopolitan city, W Roasted pigeons from Brgat, Dubrovnik to realize the value of gastronomy as an a fact which influenced local customs pastiche, Menestra (smoked meat and cabbage integral part of Dubrovnik’s cultural and gastronomic culture. Thus the stew), etc. heritage from official records from the multicultural element of Dubrovnik’s Gastrotime of the Dubrovnik Republic, books heritage also reflects the dominant Different kinds of fish and sea food by Dubrovnik writers and by word of influence of Italian cuisine, preceded by were also mentioned. On workdays, mouth passed down through time. It that of Venice. commoners, i.e. the poorer class, used is on the basis of this knowledge that to eat sardines, etc. Larger and better we build and develop our gastronomic Created at a geopolitical and socio- quality fish were consumed by wealthier heritage today, aware of modern man’s cultural crossroads, Dubrovnik’s people and on special occasions. One desire and need for a healthy, balanced gastronomy has preserved its such special occasion was mentioned in and authentic diet. originality, and obtained its uniqueness, the 15th century, when – during a visit attractiveness and recognizability by by Pope Pius II – special top quality fish Dubrovnik owes its worldwide combining different and completely dishes were served, including gilthead, recognizability primarily to its cultural conflicting tastes and influences. Neither dentex, grouper, eel and sea bass. Fish- identity. A one-time maritime power and regional trade centre, Dubrovnik was model of measure, harmony of appearance and style, aesthetics and ethics. Alongside the development of its economy, old Dubrovnik developed its own culture, combining its way of life and tradition. The course of this development is reflected both in the fields of art history and gastronomy, i.e., in the way dishes were prepared and served, and the way people behaved at table.

The originality and specificity of dishes from the Dubrovnik region, were – among other things – determined by the tradition of education, the Catholic faith, the mild climate and choice of foodstuffs, as well as by the

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 57 Dubrovnik Gastronomy from Tradition to the Present Day Aromatic and medicinal herbs from (deep fried biscuits), prikle (doughnuts), the nearby hills, such as anise, saffron, kontonjata (quince cheese), mantala (must rue, rosemary, bay leaves, marjoram, cheese), carob cream, marzipan, sponge nettles, peppermint, basil, mint, thyme cake, sweets, cottage cheese from and capers have always been used to Majkovo with sage honey, and many season and refine local dishes. These other delicacies. Celebrating holidays native ecological spices are at the same may well be called a gastronomic time irreplaceable basic and distinctive journey through the seasons. Of course, features of local dishes. These ecological, the obligatory items on the journey fragrant herbs make many dishes included the well-known wines of based dishes included dried grey mullet instantly recognizable and still today Konavle, Župa and Pelješac, as well as roe from Pelješac, grilled picarels from show the authenticity of Dubrovnik’s olive oil. Mrkan and so on. gastronomic tradition. In general terms, talking about Where the choice of foodstuffs is Dubrovnik’s gastronomy without However, seafood is far from being the concerned, they have always been mentioning wine and olive oil would principal element of Dubrovnik’s cuisine used seasonally, and dishes made from be a major omission. Unique and and that of its surrounding area. The them have been adapted to Christian simply beyond comparison they are the area abounds in fruits of the earth and holidays in that particular season. In symbols of the Mediterranean, health sun, that is, many kinds of delicious the course of the year, each Christian and gastronomic delight. The climate vegetables: artichokes, aubergines, holiday (St Blaise’s Day, Carnival, Ash and customs of the area as well as the asparagus, broad beans, courgette Wednesday, Lent, Easter, The Feast of contents and organoleptic characteristics flowers, different varieties of cabbage, Corpus Christi, Feast of the Assumption, of local dishes were strongly etc. A menu dating from 17 January Nativity of the Virgin Mary, Advent, characterized by the famous wines of 1756 (the place illegible) included Christmastime and Christmas Day) Konavle, Župa and Pelješac. different fruits such as pomegranates, was linked to particular customs with At the time of the Dubrovnik Republic melons, figs, jujubes, damsons and written and unwritten rules determining Malvasia wine was highly valued. Other krivaja grapes. what, when and how much a person top-quality wines consumed at the time should eat. Desserts included hrostule included Maraština from the Island of

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58 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. By Josip Žuvela Mljet, Grk from Lumbarda, Rukatac Present-day gastronomy is multi-layered Globalization has brought both from Smokvica and Pošip from Čara. from several aspects: it encompasses the advantages and disadvantages – According to the Statute of St Julian development of modern gastronomy Dubrovnik has reaffirmed itself as an and St Martin of 1556, and because of which is exposed to constant change Adriatic and Mediterranean centre the outstanding quality of their grapes, plus ways of adapting to these changes visited by millions of tourists on a the people of Žuljana paid their tax to from the viewpoint of local cuisine yearly basis. However, it is less than the Dubrovnik Republic exclusively in – how to conceptualise, formulate likely that they consume local food red wine, which was transported to the and present our offer in a modern prepared in the authentic Dubrovnik Rector’s Palace. The tradition of making and interesting way and according to way. The experience of the original is white and red wines in the area has been current gastronomic trends. being replaced by the experience of maintained to this day, the majority of the familiar, i.e., there is a trend of which are top quality wines mainly from By implementing economic measures, catering to conventional tastes, thus the Pelješac Peninsula. respecting working and living destroying the initiative and possibility conditions, and the profit which has of recreating a true Dubrovnik dish. It is a fact that works of art directly or become the point of work and business In this matter, one should mention indirectly tell us about social life, thus in today’s hotel and catering industry, that modern gastronomy requires the writings of Dubrovnik’s writers Dubrovnik’s gastronomy should remain innovation and that a large number of reflect Dubrovnik’s social reality. recognisable as to its message and traditional Dubrovnik dishes can easily The works of Marin Držić and Ivan contents. What are the characteristics be modified in accordance with modern Gundulić offer an insight into the of Dubrovnik’s modern gastronomic gastronomic trends. It is a fact that we gastronomic principles of their time and offer, how is it created and maintained, cannot always offer 21st century guests the role of food and beverages as part and to what extent is tradition being Renaissance dishes from Držić’s time of life. The economic abundance which followed? Can one still find any trace or similar dishes in their original form. evokes enjoyment in the lavish plate of Dubrovnik’s original gastronomy However, such dishes can quite easily be mentioned in Pomet’s monologue (Uncle in the huge and constantly increasing reinterpreted in modern times, provided Maroje) is a gastronomic masterpiece. number of catering establishments in that this partial transformation does not This «plate» is a pinnacle of harmony Dubrovnik? Can one nowadays talk disturb, or damage, the basic habitus, and beauty of different delicacies about gastronomy as a component recognizability and original message of which affect all the human senses, of the local cultural identity, or is it a the dish. evoke emotions and lead to ecstatic matter of the additional value of the rapture. In Gundulić’s Tirena, the tourism industry whose role is evaluated In line with its cultivated, natural and sensual enjoyment derived from food solely on material profit? It is difficult ecological habitus, Dubrovnik has been and drink is portrayed in the characters to provide a simple answer to these created on the principle less is more of the satyr Vuk and country people questions, but one should by all means which can definitely be applied to the - «love becomes frozen without wine keep them in mind when planning creation of its modern gastronomic offer. and bread», while in Vojnović’s Trilogy catering education and activities in After all, this particular principle is the this gastronomic abundance decreases, Dubrovnik. only real and sustainable connection which is a reflection of the downfall of between traditional and modern Dubrovnik’s aristocracy. Dubrovnik. From Pomet’s time up to the present day, Dubrovnik’s gastronomy has undergone major changes, mainly caused by adjustments to the increasing tourist market. Tourism has become the main branch of Dubrovnik’s economy causing a series of transformations and adaptations in the field of gastronomy.

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 59 Dubrovački komini

- knjiga s okusom i mirisom nonine kuhinje

Grada stvarala stoljećima, skupljajući Kaže se da ništa nije razne utjecaje koji su je poput slučajno, što je onda začina obogaćivali, ostajući posebna razlog ovoj knjizi na i originalna. Knjiga Dubrovački kojoj ste dugo radili? akon što je pročitala knjigu komini dokazuje da ni slučajno ne Dok sam bila mala svaki dan sam sa Dubrovački komini, koju stoji tvrdnja da Dubrovnik nema svojom majkom išla na placu po svježe je godinama stvarala svoju autohtonu kuhinju. Godinama N voće, povrće, ribu ili meso. Ona je nosila Dubrovkinja Jadranka Ničetić - Jadre, skupljane brojne ričete jela koja se jedna je dubrovačka gospođa autorici blagovalo i na gospodskim i na veliki košic od pruća, a ja svoj mali, u poručila: „ Blago nama da te imamo, siromašnim trpezama, dokazuju da koji bi ona uvijek stavila neko sezonsko Gradu si regalala pravi dragulj.“ Dragulj je Dubrovnik i u gastronomiji uvijek voće. Objed je spremala od svježih je, naravno, knjiga sama, kao prvo znao dati svoj posebni štih. Prije ove namirnica kao i većina žena u Gradu. pisano djelo koje svjedoči o bogatoj knjige nije bilo niti jednog mjesta na Jela su bila sezonska, raznovrsna, ali i gastronomskog kulturi i tradiciji kojemu bi se zajedno našle, dešifrirane i tradicionalna. Takav način života kao i Dubrovnika i njegove okolice. Ni sama lijepim jezikom, s prizvukom nostalgije stara jela polako su nestajali s ubrzanim napisane recepture, za sve što je bilo ne znam kako je protekla gotovo godina načinom života koji je donio i brzu na trpezama u posebnim, sretnim i po od kako su „Dubrovački komini“, prehranu, jela iz svih dijelova svijeta. radujući brojne štovatelje svakovrsne i tužnim, blagdanskim i običnim U razgovoru s mlađim generacijama dubrovačke baštine, ugledali, kako bi prigodama dubrovačke prošlosti. shvatila sam da oni znaju sve o sushi-ju se reklo, svjetlo dana, a da sam se tek Jadranku smo, u namjeri da s njome ili taco-su, dok pojedina autohtona jela nedavno našla s tom knjigom u rukama. progovorimo o tome kako je i zašto nikada nisu probali. Upravo tim mlađim Odmah sam se pridružila ljubiteljima krenula na put istraživanja dubrovačke tog štiva s okusom i mirisom prošlih generacijama odlučila sam ostaviti pisani kulinarske prošlosti, zatekli u vremena. trag o običajima i mnoštvu autohtonih Nizozemskoj u kojoj već neko vrijeme jela koja se spremaju u dubrovačkom Jadranka Ničetić nas u ovoj knjizi vodi živi, daleko od Grada u kojemu je kraju, a sada ponovo otkrivaju rođena i za koji je nesumnjivo vežu kroz povijest dubrovačke gastronomije, zaboravljene gurmanske užitke. koja se kao i cijela kultura ovoga duboki osjećaji i važna sjećanja.

60 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. By Božica Đurđević Knjiga je privlačila Na putovanjima često uspoređujem šporke makarule, zapečene mušule, široku pozornost i dok način na koji se nude autohtona jela pastu s morskim ježima, janjetinu je nastajala. Mnogi pojedinog kraja. Cijela Europa je u s bižima i koprom, teleće odreske s su u vama pri tom znaku buđenja lokalnog prehrambenog kaduljom, kotonjatu, mantalu, ovisno prepoznali spasiteljicu, identiteta. Mnoge razvijene zemlje o godišnjem dobu i o tome preferira li itekako drže do svoje tradicije jer su društvo više ribu ili meso. još samo u predaji živog na taj način prepoznatljive svugdje gastronomskog naslijeđa Koji komentar na u svijetu. Upravo ta tradicijska jela dubrovačkog kraja. „Dubrovačke komine“ , a destinaciju čine zanimljivom, jer lance Podijelite s nama to sigurno ih je puno stiglo brze hrane možete pronaći diljem iskustvo. do Vas, držite najbližim svijeta. Običaji vezani uz hranu važan onome što i sami osjećate Tijekom pisanja knjige upoznala sam su dio naše nematerijalne baštine, stoga za svoju knjigu? mnoštvo dragih ljudi koji su uistinu valja ubrzano raditi na zaštiti proizvoda pokazali veliki interes za moj rad, koji će nositi oznaku geografskog Bilo je jako puno komentara putem a samim time željeli su i doprinijeti podrijetla. e-maila ili usmeno, ali meni je najdraži njezinom stvaranju. Tako su mi često jedne umjetnice iz Konavala koja mi Zadnjih godina u dubrovačkom znali predlagati s kim se trebam sastati je rekla da joj je najdraži bijeg od svih kraju sve više se pozornosti pridodaje kako bih doznala zanimljive podatke uz problema sadašnjice moja knjiga, jer u obogaćivanju jelovnika autohtonim neki običaj, jelo ili su mi jednostavno njoj pronalazi svoj mir. jelima kako bi gost uživao u okusima sami donosili zadaće sa zapisima drugih i mirisima u kojima su stoljećima Često i sama uzmem „Dubrovačke obitelji na posudbu kako bih proučila uživali ljudi našega kraja, a sve je komine“ u ruke pa iznova dragim što više starih ričeta. Najviše sam uživala više i proizvođača tradicijskih slastica. prijateljima pročitam neki zanimljiv istraživati po selima dubrovačkoga Gost opčinjen prirodnom ljepotom, ulomak koji nas brzinom svjetlosti vrati kraja gdje stariji ljudi još uvijek živo oplemenjenim znanjem iz naše bogate u djetinjstvo, u one mirne i spokojne pamte običaje iz svoga djetinjstva. prošlosti, potpunu cjelinu doživljaja dane kad se živjelo bez žurbe i kad su svi U Državnom arhivu u Dubrovniku, našega kraja zaokružuje izborom koji komini vonjali domaćim jelima. Svaki te Narodnoj i Znanstvenoj knjižnici mu se nudi na pjatu. put iznova, dok listam knjigu, vrijeme tražila sam podatke iz starih književnih stane, a naši stari ponovo ožive. Iako djela, kao i usputnih bilježaka pisaca o Što biste od starih ričeta sam se čvrsto držala povijesnih činjenica tome što se u Dubrovniku jelo i kako izdvojili kao posebnost, pišući moju knjigu, kroz te pričice se pripremala hrana koja je punila što najradije od tih starih nastojala sam prenijeti dio topline trpeze. Svaki dan tijekom pisanja receptura pripremate u domova naših nona i naših majki. Po knjige beskrajno sam uživala upravo svome kominu, za svoje reakcijama čitatelja vidim da sam u zato jer sam imala veliku podršku sve drage? tome i uspjela. te drage čeljadi. Zbog velikog interesa U svim receptima koje sam proučila Tko jednom zađe u magični svijet naših iseljenika, koji su željeli knjigu nisam pronašla niti jedan o gljivama, knjige Dubrovački komini , a time i u pokloniti svojim prijateljima, odlučila pa se lako da zaključiti da ih nisu svijet stare dubrovačke kuhinje, ostat sam skraćenu verziju prevesti na konzumirali. U drevnoj dubrovačkoj će zauvijek opčinjen čarolijom okusa i engleski. Uskoro „Traditional taste od kuhinji rado su upotrebljavali mirodije mirisa koji mame uzdah, suzu, zazivaju Dubrovnik“ izlazi iz tiska. i začine dovezene brodovima i melankoliju i nostalgiju, miješaju maštu Upoznali ste i druge karavanama iz dalekih krajeva koji su i stvarnost. U mnogim suvremenim kulture. Koliko ljudi jelima davali bogatiji okus i aromu, a kominima ova će knjiga oživjeti gotovo današnjice drže do svega zbog dostupnosti i samoniklo ljekovito zaboravljene mirise i okuse koji vraćaju onoga što miriše na bilje koje obilno raste na dubrovačkom u sjećanje djetinjstvo i toplinu jutra u nostalgiju, što vraća u području. majčinom domu. Gospođa Jadranka, hvala Vam na tome! prošlost? Ima li se uopće Mojim dragim ukućanima i prijateljima vremena za to? uvijek rado spravljam Stonsku tortu,

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 61 DUBROVAČKI KOMINI (Dubrovnik’s Old-style Kitchens)

always put its own stamp on the field of Many people saw in – a book with gastronomy as well. Before this book, you a saviour of the there was no place where one could find gastronomic heritage the taste and recipes - explained in lovely language of the Dubrovnik area, resounding with nostalgia - for all dishes which now only lives on served on special, happy, sad, festive and by word of mouth. What fragrance of ordinary occasions during Dubrovnik’s kind of experience was it past. writing this book? grandma’s Aiming to ask Mrs. Ničetić how and While writing this book, I met many why she chose to explore Dubrovnik’s sweet people who indeed showed great kitchen culinary past, we found her in Holland, interest in my work and wished to give where she has been living for some time their contribution to its creation. They now, far away form her native City, to often suggested whom I should meet to fter reading the book which she is undoubtedly bound by find out interesting details connected Dubrovački komini (Dubrovnik’s deep feelings and fond memories. with certain customs or dishes, or AOld-style Kitchens), a long- they simply brought me notebooks term project by the Dubrovnik born borrowed from other families so that writer Jadranka Ničetić - Jadre, another They say that nothing I could study as many old recipes as lady from Dubrovnik sent the author happens by chance. So, possible. I took the greatest pleasure the following message: „We are so what made you write in doing my research in the villages of lucky to have you. You have presented this book, on which you the Dubrovnik area, where old people the City with a true gem“. The gem, worked for a long time? still clearly remembered their childhood customs. In the Dubrovnik Archives of course, is the book itself, as the first When I was little, I went to the market and in the National and Scientific written piece bearing evidence of the place with my mother every day to Libraries, I studied old books and rich gastronomic culture and tradition buy fresh fruit, vegetables, fish or incidental references on what people of Dubrovnik and its surroundings. I meat. She used to carry a large wicker used to eat in Dubrovnik, and in what can’t tell how come I only recently ran basket - I carried a little one too- in way the food for our tables used to be across the book, almost a year and a which she always placed some fruit of prepared. I enormously enjoyed each half after the Dubrovački komini, “had the season. She always prepared lunch day of the writing particularly because seen the light of day”, as they say, much from fresh foodstuffs, like most of the I had huge support from all those to the delight of numerous admirers women in the City did. The dishes wonderful people. Because of the great of all fields of the Dubrovnik heritage. were seasonal, varied and traditional. interest of our emigrants who wished Needless to say I immediately joined However, this way of life and the old to present their friends with this book, the lovers of this text with its taste and dishes both began to disappear under I decided to translate its abridged fragrance of bygone times. the influence of a quicker pace of life, version into English. The book entitled which brought fast food and dishes from In her book, Jadranka Ničetić leads Traditional Taste of Dubrovnik is about to all parts of the world. While talking us through the history of Dubrovnik’s be published. with younger generations, I realised that gastronomy, which - like the entire they were more familiar with sushi or culture of the City - has been created You have had the taco, and had never tasted some of the throughout the centuries by adopting opportunity to meet indigenous dishes. Therefore, I decided different influences that enriched it like different cultures. How to leave written evidence about the spices do, but which still managed to much do people today customs and numerous native dishes remain special and original. The book care about everything from the Dubrovnik area to these very that has to do with Dubrovački komini actually proves that younger generations, and they are now the statement that Dubrovnik doesn’t nostalgia and brings back rediscovering the forgotten gourmand have its own indigenous cuisine is by no memories of the past? Do delights. means true. Numerous recipes for dishes people have time for all that? served at both rich and poor people’s while you were still tables that have been collected for working on it, the book During my travels, I often compare many years prove that Dubrovnik has aroused wide interest. the way the native dishes of particular

62 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. By Božica Đurđević areas are offered. The whole of Europe s morskim ježima (sea-urchin pasta), is experiencing the awakening of local janjetina s bižima i koprom (lamb with culinary identity. Many developed peas and dill), teleći odresci s kaduljom countries do appreciate their tradition, (veal cutlets with sage), kotonjata (quince because it makes them recognisable cheese) and mantala (must cheese), worldwide. In view of the fact that one depending on the season and whether can find fast food chains all over the my guests prefer fish or meat. world, it is those very traditional dishes You have surely heard that make a destination interesting. many comments on the The customs connected with food are DUBROVAČKI KOMINI. Which an important part of our intangible do you consider to be heritage, which is why people hasten to the closest to what you protect the products that will bear the yourself feel about the mark of geographic origin. book? In recent years, people in the Dubrovnik I have received very many comments via area are more and more keen to enrich e-mail, or by word of mouth. The one their menus with local dishes, to enable I like best is by an artist from Konavle, guests to enjoy the tastes and fragrances who told me that my book is the best which the local people have enjoyed way for her to get away from all today’s for many centuries. The number of problems, and that she finds peace in it. producers of traditional sweet dishes is constantly increasing as well. Charmed I myself often take the book in my by the beauty of our countryside and hands and read an interesting passage intrigued by our exciting history, guests to my dear friends, which takes us back, will round up their experience of the at the speed of light, to childhood and area with the very selection of food that the serene and peaceful days when we is being served to them. lived without rushing and when all old kitchens smelled of home-made dishes. Which of the old Every time I turn the pages of the book, recipes do you consider time stands still and old folks come particularly special, and back to life again. Although I stuck which old recipe is your strictly to historic facts while writing my favourite when preparing book, I intended to convey a part of the food for your nearest warmth of our grandmas’ and mothers’ and dearest? homes. Readers’ comments show that I Among all the recipes I have researched, succeeded in my intention. I discovered none with mushrooms, One who enters the magic world of the so one might conclude that they book Dubrovački komini, and thus the weren’t consumed at all. To improve world of the old Dubrovnik cuisine, will and enrich the taste and aroma of the forever remain charmed by the magic of old Dubrovnik dishes, people keenly tastes and fragrances which make you used flavours and spices brought in by sigh, shed a tear, and feel melancholic ships and caravans from faraway lands. and nostalgic, mixing imagination They were also fond of using wild with reality. This is why in many of medicinal herbs, which grew lavishly today’s kitchens this book will bring in the Dubrovnik area and were easily to life almost forgotten fragrances and accessible. tastes which bring back memories of For members of my family and friends, childhood and the warmth of a morning I gladly and often make Gateau from in one’s mother’s home. Thank you for Ston, šporki makaruli (sporchi macaroni), that, Mrs. Ničetić zapečene mušule (baked mussels), pasta

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 63 Poznati dubrovački liker

Rozolin se pravi od – ruže vonjače (rosa centifolia), jedne od najstarijih i najpoznatijih ruža u Europi kojom su još stari Rimljani posipali krevete. Naziv vonjača na dubrovačkom području dobila je ova grmolika ruža upravo zbog intenzivnog mirisa. Sadila se uz gosparske, ali i seoske kuće dubrovačkog kraja.

64 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. Napisala Silva Kapurso

ozolin, mirisni liker Za popodnevnih susreta u boljim Na Lastovu, jednom od najudaljenijih dubrovačkih krajeva, od dubrovačkim kućama uz glazbu i čitanje naših otoka, možda baš stoga što je Rdavnina je poznat, a danas poezije, za stolom bi se našla i kupica nedirnut svakodnevnicom, rozolin se i gotovo zaboravljen. Podsjeća na doba rozolina uz suhe smokve. dalje spravlja po starim recepturama iz Dubrovačke Republike, slavne dane Teško je reći zbog čega se običaj vremena Dubrovačke Republike. Osim dubrovačke povijesti, spominju ga pravljenja ovog mirisnog likera gotovo likera koji je danas rijetkost, nekad se dubrovački pisci, ali i arhivski spisi. izgubio. Čini se da nema više strpljenja pravila i ružina vodica, koja se koristila Danas će se naći u malo kojoj kući, za skupljanje ružinih latica, a potrebno kao miris, a do današnjih dana zadržao iako recept i nije tajna. Uz pravu vrstu je tek 12 mirisnih ružinih cvjetova. se miris ružinih latica najčešće o Uskrsu, i dovoljan broj ružinih latica, može ga Očišćene i oprane listove slaže se u kad domaće pinice zamirišu aromom za spraviti bilo tko, a probirljiviji gost naći teglicu naizmjenično sa šećerom. Za kolače na bazi ružinih latica. će upravo domaći rozolin u biranim ostalo je potrebno tek sunce, strpljenje trgovinama autohtonih proizvoda. i povremeno miješanje. Nakon 40- Još u doba Dubrovačke Republike ak dana na suncu nastala tekućina se rozolin je bio zaštitni znak ovoga kraja. procijedi i zalije blagom domaćom Ružini grmovi sadili su se uz vrtove rakijom. I to je sve. Ipak, sve je manje kuća oko Grada, a cvjetovi su se ubirali i rozolina i ruža od kojih se pravi, tzv. i pomno birale latice. Rozolin je darivan vonjača. Zamijenile su je druge ruže svećenstvu i plemstvu koje je dolazilo u - atraktivnije, hibridne vrste trajnijeg Grad. Kao poklon su ga nosili i svakom cvijeta. novoustoličenom hercegovačkom Iako je jug Hrvatske danas na rozolin sandžakbegu i bosanskom beglerbegu. gotovo zaboravio, običaj pravljenja ovog Tako dubrovački Senat davne 1777. g. mirisnog likera sačuvao se na otocima. savjetuje svog poslanika da bosanskog beglerbega uz uobičajene darove krišom podmiti, baš dubrovačkim rozolinom. Liker se stoljećima nudio posebnim, uvaženim gostima u znak dobrodošlice.

recipe is not a secret. Anyone using the proper variety of rose and the right amount of petals can make it. A more demanding guest can find home-made Rozolin in specialised shops with local products. Rozolin was already a regional trade ozolin, a fragrant liqueur from mark at the time of the Dubrovnik Rthe Dubrovnik area - widely Republic. In the gardens of houses known in the past - is nowadays almost surrounding the Old City rose shrubs forgotten. Reminiscent of the time used to be planted, the flowers picked of the Dubrovnik Republic and the and the petals selected with care. glorious days of Dubrovnik’s history, it Clergymen and aristocrats who visited was mentioned by Dubrovnik writers, the City were presented with Rozolin. Rozolinbut also in archival records. Rozolin is It was a customary gift for every newly- nowadays seldom found, although its appointed Herzegovinian sanjak-bey

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 65 A Well-Known Dubrovnik Liqueur By Silva Kapurso

Rozolin is made from the It is difficult to say why the custom of making this aromatic liqueur has Provence rose, known locally as the almost fallen into oblivion. People seem to have lost the patience to pick rose sweet-smelling rose petals. And all one needs is merely twelve sweet-smelling rose flowers. (rosa centifolia) Cleaned and washed rose petals are placed in alternate layers with sugar in - one of Europe’s oldest and a glass bowl. After that, the only things best-known rose varieties required are the sun, patience and occasional stirring. After being exposed - which the Ancient Romans to the sun for some forty days, the liquid is strained and a mild home-made scattered over their beds. brandy is poured over it. And that’s all. Nevertheless, one finds Rozolin and the This shrub rose variety owes rose it is made from - the Provence rose, called locally “the sweet-smelling rose “ its name to its heavy scent. (ruža vonjača) - less and less often. It has It used to be cultivated been replaced by other rose varieties, the more attractive hybrid roses with longer close to both noblemen’s lasting flowers. Although Rozolin is nowadays almost and peasant houses forgotten in Southern Croatia, the custom of making this aromatic liqueur in the Dubrovnik has been maintained on the islands. The reason Rozolin is still being made area. according to recipes dating from the time of the Dubrovnik Republic on (a high-ranking officer) and Bosnian the Island of Lastovo, one of our most beylerbey (the governor of a province). distant islands, is perhaps the fact that For instance, in 1777, the Dubrovnik it has remained untouched by every-day Senate advised its envoy to secretly life. In addition to the liqueur, which bribe a Bosnian beylerbey with this very is a rarity today, people used to make Dubrovnik Rozolin, in addition to the rose lotion that was used as perfume. usual gifts. However, the rose petal fragrance has For many centuries, special and highly been preserved to this day in the form of esteemed guests were welcomed with rose aroma with which the local home- the liqueur. Rozolin used to be served made Easter buns (pinica) are flavoured. with dried figs during afternoon music- and poetry gatherings in Dubrovnik’s wealthy homes.

66 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. DUTY FREE SHOP

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DUTY FREE SHOPPING? NO PROBLEM!!!

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2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 67 Dubrovnik kao filmska scena

vadeseto stoljeće donijelo je DDubrovniku popularnost i kroz brojna filmska snimanja, tako su šezdesete godine dvadesetoga stoljeća bile vrlo „žive“ , Grad je korišten kao scena brojnih, mahom, europskih produkcija. U Gradu, za kojeg je Alfred Hitchcock rekao: „Ljepota Dubrovnika bila bi na filmu nestvarna!“, jedna našem gradu posvjedočili su u kratkom fantastična serija donosi mu globalnu dokumentarnom filmu kojeg je izdao popularnost. Od 2011. u Dubrovniku HBO Adria. Više od riječi govore se snima planetarno poznati serijal njihove privatne fotografije objavljivane HBO-a „Igra prijestolja“, a prema po socijalnim mrežama (Twitter, riječima glavnih producenata serije, DB Instagram) gdje su u „opuštenom“ Weiss-a i David Benioff-a, Dubrovnik izdanju na dubrovačkoj Porporeli. U je odabran upravo zato što je teško u siječnju 2014. u Dubrovniku je snimana svijetu naći srednjovjekovni grad na još jedna serija – europska produkcija obali, tako savršeno očuvan, a koji po Francuske, Njemačke i Češke posvećena svojim karakteristikama zaista sliči na jednoj od najpoznatijih papinskih obitelji izmišljeni „Kraljev grudobran“ George – Borgia. Oživljen scenama bitaka, R. R.Martina. Za produkcijski tim konjima , brojnim statistima Dubrovnik HBO –a, kao i za brojnu glumačku je u siječanjskom suncu predstavljao ekipu Hrvatska i Dubrovniku su srednjovjekovni grad iz 15. stoljeća u perfektni, a koliko uživaju snimati u priči o usponu pape Aleksandra VI. .

68 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. DUBROVNIK AS A FILM Setting

hen it comes to film and movie Wproductions, the 20th century brought Dubrovnik added popularity through numerous film shoots. During the sixties, numerous European productions were created in this city in which Alfred Hitchcock once said, “The beauty of Dubrovnik would seem unreal in a movie!” In recent times, one fantastic series has reinvigorated this global popularity. Since 2011, Dubrovnik has become home to the recording of HBO’s globally famous series ‘Game of Thrones’. In the words of the main producers of the series, DB Weiss and David Benioff, Dubrovnik was chosen precisely because of the difficulty of finding such a perfectly preserved Medieval City along the coast anywhere in the world, a place which actually resembles the fictional ‘King’s Landing’, by George R. R. Martin. The production team for HBO, as well as numerous cast members recently released a short documentary film vindicating their praise of Croatia and Dubrovnik as the perfect place and how much they have enjoyed recording this epic tale, in a city which truly is epic. It was released by HBO Adria. Private photos published on social networks (Twitter, Instagram) by the cast speak of ‘words which cannot express the beauty of where they are’ in the relaxed Dubrovnik Porporela. In January 2014, a joint European French/German/Czech production began recording a series dedicated to one of the most famous papal families – Borgia. Enlivened by battle scenes, horses, and extras, Dubrovnik reassumed its image of a 15th century city in this story about the rise of Pope Alexander VI.

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 69 70 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. DOGAĐANJA U DUBROVNIKU 2O14 DUBROVNIK EVENTS

FESTA SV.VLAHA / to bitna obilježja dubrovačkih karnevalskih DUBROVNIK FESTIWINE svečanosti i zabava. FESTIVAL OF ST. BLAISE 24. – 26. TRAVNJA 2014. A ako ste u Dubrovniku - priključite se! Na prvom regionalnom vinskom Rado ćemo vas primiti. Posebno ako se festivalu Dubrovnik FestiWine koji se u maškarate! Dubrovniku od 24. do 26. travnja 2014. godine održava kušajte lokalna vina u 1 – 4 MARCH 2014 Dubrovniku i upoznajte puninu okusa crnih i bijeih vina uzgojenih na suncem Our ancestors also had fun, and so should i solju okupanim padinama Pelješca i we... is a proverb which one can hear plodnom tlu konavoskog vinogorja. in Dubrovnik in February during the carnival, the time when everything is 1.-9. VELJAČE 2014. 24 – 26 APRIL 2014 allowed, when people become someone Dubrovčani već više od tisuću godina The first regional wine festival perfectly else or show their true face...The merry slave blagdan svoga zaštitnika sv. Vlaha titled Dubrovnik FestiWine runs from the time of carnival and putting on masks na čiji dan širom otvaraju vrata svoga 24 to 26 April, 2014. Get your taste buds begins after New Year’s time and ends Grada. U čast svetoga Vlaha i Dana Grada buzzing with an abundance of local wines with the arrival of spring. During the Dubrovnika održavaju se brojna kulturna, to be tried whilst sampling the fullness carnival the Dubrovnik Tourist Board zabavna, glazbena i sportska događanja. of flavour with both red and white wines and the City of Dubrovnik organize Festa dubrovačkog zaštitnika, dan koji as grown under the sun and salt bathed numerous events. Experience the special podsjeća da svetac koji Dubrovnik čuva slopes of Peljesac or the fertile Konavle atmosphere of the Dubrovnik carnival na dlanu vječno bdije nad njegovom vineyards slobodom, uvrštena je 2009. u registar festivities characteristic of jokes, laughter, nematerijalne baštine UNESCO-a. merriment, joy, mime and acerbic mockery. AKLAPELA SMOTRA KLAPA / 1 – 9 FEBRUARY 2014 If you happen to be in Dubrovnik at DALMATIAN SONGS FESTIVAL) Ever since the year 972, when people carnival time – do join in! You will be began to celebrate it, the feast day of St welcome. Particularly if you are wearing Blaise, Dubrovnik patron saint, has been a a mask! quite special festival, typical of Dubrovnik. A series of church and secular concerts, exhibitions, book presentations and 11. MEDITERANSKI SAJAM theatre guest performances are dedicated ZDRAVE PREHRANE, to the patron saint of Dubrovnik, whose LJEKOVITOG BILJA I statues look at us from the city walls and gates and whose caring hand guards ZELENOG PODUZETNIŠTVA Dubrovnik on his palm. 27. – 30. OŽUJKA 2014. 25.- 27. TRAVNJA 2014. www.dubrovnik.hr Aklapela je godišnja smotra najvrjednijih klapskih ostvarenja kroz održavanje nekoliko komornih koncerata odabranih DUBROVAČKI KARNEVO / hrvatskih muških i ženskih klapa. Namjera DUBROVNIK CARNIVAL je omogućavanje koncertnih izvedbi na način istovjetan ili blizak izvornom 1.– 4. OŽUJKA 2014. načinu stvaranja i izvođenja tradicionalne I naši su stari ludovali pa možemo i mi hrvatske klapske pjesme. ..izreka je koja se u Dubrovniku čuje u veljači u vremenu karnevalskih svečanosti, 11th MEDITERRANEAN 25 – 27 APRIL 2014 vremenu kad je sve dopušteno, kad ljudi The Aklapela festival of the best Croatian FAIR OF HEALTHY FOOD, postaju netko drugi ili pak pokazuju svoje vocal groups promotes the authentic pravo lice... Veselo vrijeme karnevala i MEDICINAL HERBS AND harmonized singing, a festival named after maskiranja događa se u razdoblju iza Nove GREEN a pun of the words klapa and a cappella. Unlike other numerous established music godine i nestaje dolaskom proljeća. ENTREPRENEURSHIP Turistička zajednica grada Dubrovnika festivals that are successfully held in i Grad Dubrovnik u vrijeme karnevala Dubrovnik, the Aklapela is an entirely 27 – 30 MARCH 2014 national musical product and, with its organiziraju niz prigodnih programa http://www.mediteranski-sajam.com/ poput Četiri dana dubrovačkog karnevala. visionary artistic leadership, has the Osjetite posebnu atmosferu šale, smijeha, potential to become an essential part of the Croatian ethno-music. veselja, radosti i jetkog ismijavanje jer su www.aklapela.hr

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 71 MALI GLAZBENI FESTIVAL Ideja ovog kratkog Festivala je da, već pri 1 JULY –31 AUGUST 2014 PARK ORSULA 2014 / početku ljetne glazbene sezone, u Grad For many years the City of Dubrovnik and PARK ORSULA MUSIC donese ponešto za svakoga. the Dubrovnik Tourist Board have been FESTIVAL 2014 www.anaugradu.com organizing music and entertainment programs on the Elafite islands, as wel as in Zaton and Orašac in order to present LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU Mediterranean music, folklore and folk THEATRE traditions that have been cherished for centuries. During these special programmes featuring traditional folk festivities, guests will be able to enjoy some thirty performances this summer such as: Dalmatian vocal group concerts, 15. LIPNJA – 5. RUJNA 2014. folklore performances, classical music Jedinstven prostor otet zaboravu concerts and performances by Croatian entuzijazmom udruge Ambient Croatia, music entertainers. These events will be opremljen i prilagođen held on the Islands of Koločep, Lopud and za glazbeno -scenska događanja nudi Šipan, as wel as in Zaton and Orašac. pregršt raznovrsnih koncertnih zbivanja domaćih i inozemnih izvođača. Riječ je o povijesnom lokalitetu Crkvice DUBROVAČKI sv. Orsule, koji je nakon 200 godina otet 21. –28. LIPNJA 2014. MEĐUNARODNI OPERNI zaboravu i oko koje je napravljen scenski Le Petit Festival du Theatre je poseban i prostor s prekrasnim pogledom na staru prepoznatljiv kulturni događaj na kojem se FESTIVAL / DUBROVNIK gradsku jezgru, udaljen od centra Grada predstavljaju umjetnici i umjetnički talenti INTERNATIONAL OPERA svega par kilometara s amifetatrom od iz cijeloga svijeta. Le Petit Festival svake 250 sjedećih mjesta. godine podiže zastor otkrivajući kreacije FESTIVAL pažljivo izabranih i talentiranih umjetnika 15 JUNE – 5 SEPTEMBER 2014 bilo da su oni pjesnici, glumci, plesači ili Open Air Stage – Archaeological Site nešto sasvim drugo, te je proteklih godina –Panoramic Gazebo. This wonderful u sklopu ovog Festivala u Dubrovniku cultivated area, apart from being a place sudjelovalo stotinjak umjetnika iz cijeloga where one can enjoy nature and the view, svijeta. was conceptualised as a unique open air stage for cultural and entertainment 21 – 28 JUNE 2014 events with 250 seats. The new edition of This is a small festival, but a special and the Orsula Park Music Festival programme distinctive cultural event in which artists offers an unforgettable experience under display their artistic talents from around 03. – 06. SRPNJA 2014. the stars. the world. Every year, Le Petit Theatre Festival nosi ime i organizira se u znak www.parkorsula.du-hr.net du Festival raises the curtain revealing sjećanja na svjetski poznatog opernog carefully selected creations and talented pjevača, tenora Tina Pattieru, veliko artists, poets, actors and dancers. i slavno ime europskih i svjetskih GLAZBENO – SCENSKI opernih kuća prve polovice 20. stoljeća. Na festivalu, koji ponovno donosi FESTIVAL ANA U GRADU / LJETO NA ELAFITIMA, Dubrovniku velike svjetske arije izvode MUSIC SCENE FESTIVAL se djela najznačajnijih opernih autora uz U ZATONU I ORAŠCU “ANA IN TOWN” gostovanja znanih međunarodnih opernih / SUMMER EVENTS zvijezda. PROGRAM AT DUBROVNIK 3 - 6 JULY 2014 SOURROUNDINGS The festival is named after and organized in the memory of the world famous tenor 1. SRPNJA – 31. KOLOVOZA 2014. Tino Pattiera, one of the U organizaciji Grada Dubrovnika i major singers at the opera houses both Turističke zajednice Grada, na elafitskim in Europe and worldwide in the first half otocima, u Zatonu i of the 20th century.The International Orašcu upriličit će se, kao i već dugi Operatic Aria Festival Hommage Tino niz godina dosada, zabavno-glazbeni Pattiera was founded aiming to become 21. LIPNJA 2014. programi s ciljem another permanent operatic event in 21 JUNE 2014 obogaćivanja turističke ponude. Za our city, to complete the operatic milieu Vikend festival Ana u Gradu predstavlja tradicionalnih pučkih festa i blagdana na of Dubrovnik, and to present the most mladu umjetnicu, vrsnu violončelisticu Koločepu, Lopudu i Šipanu, kao i u Zatonu beautiful operatic output of the greatest prepoznatljivog glazbenog stila Anu i Orašcu osmišljeno je tridesetak priredbi composers to its audiences. Rucner u dvojakoj ulozi klasične za dobru zabavu i ugodnu atmosferu. www.dubrovnik-opera-festival.com glazbenice i crossover instrumentalistice.

72 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014. 65. DUBROVAČKE LJETNE called “Stars beneath the Stars”, for the 26 AUGUST – 20 SEPTEMBER 2014 IGRE / 65th DUBROVNIK city of Dubrovnik and its guests. The most This new festival that will last until mid- attractive open-air venues of our hotels - September was recently launched by SUMMER FESTIVAL beaches, terraces, swimming pools - serve the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra in as breathtaking settings where concerts order to maintain the music and cultural take place under the stars. vibrancy in UNESCO’s Dubrovnik after the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.

DIVLJA LIGA / WATERPOLO WILD LEAGUE 2014 WINE & JAZZ FESTIVAL

10. SRPNJA – 25. KOLOVOZA 2014. Dubrovačke ljetne igre i ove će godine okupiti ponajbolje dramske, glazbene, baletne, folklorne, likovne i filmske umjetnike iz cijeloga svijeta. Zasnovane na bogatoj i živoj baštini Grada Dubrovnika, Igre 65. godinu za redom u razdoblju od 10. srpnja do 25. kolovoza postaju sjecište 12. SRPNJA –11. KOLOVOZA 2014. hrvatskog i svjetskog duha i kulture. Međusobni susreti vaterpolskih družina s 25. –28. RUJNA 2014. kupališta počeli su daleke 1922. godine, Jedinstveni dubrovački festival „Wine & 10 JULY–25 AUGUST 2014 povremeno se prekidali i nastavljali. Jazz festival“ je postao enogastro-kulturna Dubrovnik Summer Festival is I kad su se, početkom 80-ih godina atrakcija za sve štovatelje umjetnosti, undoubtedly the largest and most prošlog stoljeća (tisućljeća), mnogi već jazz-a, finog vina i autohtone dalmatinske representative cultural event, not only bili pomirili s činjenicom kako je lijepa kuhinje. in Dubrovnik, but in all of Croatia. It has tradicija zauvijek prekinuta, Ivo Kolić been held since 1950 and takes place je zasukao rukave. Priključili su mu se i 25 – 28 SEPTEMBER 2014 every year from 10 July to 25 August. kupači s Porporele, skupili novac, kupili Dubrovnik “swings” to the sounds of jazz www.dubrovnik-festival.hr bare i plutače, napravili teren, pokupili u with the Dubrovnik International Wine & Gružu, od Juga, pokoju staru loptu i kapicu Jazz Festival! The Festival takes place at te krenuli s natjecanjem.Tradicija se the end of September in the heart of the Old City, and features world-class jazz, ZVIJEZDE POD ZVIJEZDAMA očuvala. Danas je Prvenstvo dubrovačkih kupališta u vaterpolu najveće amatersko outstanding Croatian wines and Croatian / STARS BENEATH THE vaterpolsko natjecanje na svijetu. Više painters. STARS od 40-ak sastava svake godine početkom www.dubrovnikwinejazz.com srpnja uskače u more te počinje utrku za naslovom prvaka. PROSLAVA

12 JULY –11 AUGUST 2014 MEĐUNARODNOG Today , the Dubrovnik Local beaches DANA TURIZMA / Water polo Championship is the largest WORLD TOURISM DAY amateur competition in the world. More than 40 teams jump into the sea every CELEBRATION year at the beginning of July, and start the battle for the champion title. 27. RUJNA 2014./ 27 SEPTEMBER 2014 10. SRPNJA –3. RUJNA 2014. www.divljaliga.hr Jadranski luksuzni hoteli i ove su godine FESTIVAL PEKMEZA, DŽEMA pripremili kvalitetan ljetni program na I MARMELADE / CROATIAN spektakularnim lokacijama uz more GLAZBENI FESTIVAL – dubrovačkih hotela Excelsior, Grand Ville FESTIVAL OF JAMS AND DUBROVNIK U POZNO Argentina, Dubrovnik Palace, Croatia i MARMALADES Bellevue. Već osmu godinu, ovi otvoreni LJETO / MUSIC FESTIVAL atraktivni prostori dubrovačkih hotela – DUBROVNIK IN LATE ponovno će poslužiti kao prekrasne, prirodne scenografije na kojima će se SUMMER odvijati originalni koncertni nastupi, kreativne zabave, prateći partiji. 10. SRPNJA –3. RUJNA 2014. Festival koji će trajati do polovice rujna 10 JULY –3 SEPTEMBER 2014 poznog ljeta pokrenuo je Dubrovački simfonijski orkestar kako bi glazbeno This is the 10th year that the important 11. –13. LISTOPAD 2014./ – kulturna živost u UNESCO-om Dubrovnik hotel group Adriatic Luxury 11 – 13 OCTOBER 2013 Dubrovniku bila prisutna i nakon završetka Hotels has organised a summer ispred Crkve sv. Vlaha / in front of Dubrovačkih ljetnih igara. programme of music and entertainment Saint Blaise’s Church

2014 Welcome to Dubrovnik 73 BOŽIĆNI SAJAM DOČEK NOVE GODINE CHRISTMAS FAIR NA STRADUNU / THE NEW YEAR’S PARTY IN STRADUN

31. PROSINCA 2014. Posebnost Dubrovnika, uz prebogatu povijest i kulturno naslijeđe, čini i najluđa zabava uz doček Nove godine koja se u Gradu pod Srđem organizira od 1995. i svrstava naš Grad među najatraktivnije PROSINAC 2014. –SIJEČANJ 2015. destinacije za izvrstan provod u najdužim Unescov grad svjetske baštine Dubrovnik, noćima. Brojni posjetitelji Dubrovnika, u prosinačko blagdansko vrijeme zasjat novu će 2014. godinu dočekati uz bogat će okićen svjećicama stvarajući ugođaj zabavno -glazbeni program koji jedino u bajkovitog renesansnog grada.U mjesecu Gradu pod Srđem traje već od jutarnjih darivanja održat će se Božićni sajam, sati 31. prosinca. na kojem će se predstaviti tradicijski obrti koji će izložiti svoje rukotvorine, 31 DECEMBER 2014 božićne ukrase, svijeće, igračke, staklo, In addition to its astonishing history and vez, keramiku i porculan i sve ono što cultural heritage, Dubrovnik is special for je kreativna umjetnička ruka izradila za is crazy New Year’s Party, which has been blagdanske dane. Ugostitelji će nuditi held in the City at the foot of Mount Srđ božićne kolačiće i slastice, kuhano since 1995, and which makes our city one vino, bruštulane mjendule (bademe u of the most attractive destinations šećeru), tradicionalne dubrovačke slastice for having a great time in the long -kotonjatu, mantalu, prikle, hrostule i winter nights. Numerous visitors druge delicije koje se pripremaju za ovo to Dubrovnik will see in the svečarsko vrijeme. New Year 2015, entertained by a spectacular music DECEMBER 2014 – JANUARY 2015 programme, and the City At the time of the December holidays at the foot of Mount the Unesco World Heritage City of Srđ is the only place Dubrovnik will shine with magical where an entertainment decorations and sparkle with fairy programme takes place lights, creating the atmosphere of a from the morning of the fairy-tale renaissance city. In the month 31st December right of gift giving the Christmas Fair will through to the New take place. Traditional crafts will be Year. on show, and handicrafts, Christmas decorations, candles, toys, glassware, embroidery, ceramics, porcelain and all the objects which the artists’ hands have manufactured for Christmas will be displayed. The caterers will offer Christmas cookies, confectionery, mulled wine, bruštulani mjenduli (candied almonds), and traditional Dubrovnik sweet delicacies including kontonjata (quince cheese), mantala (must cheese), prikle (doughnuts), hrostule (deep fried biscuits) and other delicacies made for this holiday time. To the accompaniment of Christmas songs, the fair will be open from St Nicolas’ Day to Epiphany.

74 Dobrodošli u Dubrovnik 2014.