Welcome to Dubrovnik / Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2O2O

Welcome GRATIS

Broj /Number Antoneta Alamat Red History “Dubrovnik, Kusijanović Museum a Scarred City” 32 Intervju - Interview Muzej Crvene povijesti Izložba - Exhibition AMAZING MOMENTS OF LIFE Sadržaj / Contents Nakladnik / Publisher:

ANTONETA ALAMAT Znameniti Dubrovčani KUSIJANOVIĆ Notable Figures in Dubrovnik History

Napisala / By Sandra Lacković ...... ANTUN PUŠIĆ 6 Tel. / Phone: +385(0)20/323-887 Napisao / By Damir Račić ...... 66 323-889, 323-907 sv. Vlaho / St. Blaise Fax: +385(0)/323-725 Maestro ÐELO JUSIĆ www.tzdubrovnik.hr Napisala / By Maja Nodari ...... 11 [email protected] Napisala / By Gabrijela Bijelić ...... 60 Sunakladnik / Co-Publisher: Tiramole Alfa-2 Traditional clotheslines Dubrovački dizajneri tel. +385 20 418 453 Napisala / By Lorita Vierda ...... 14 Dubrovnik Designers fax. + 385 20 418 454 e-mail: [email protected] IDA ALEKSIĆ FILIPOVIĆ web: www.alfa-2.hr GAME OF THRONES Napisala / By Lidija Crnčević ...... 64 Glavna urednica / Editor-in-chief: Lidija Crnčević Napisala / By Ivana Radić ...... 18 Serpentine Srđa Uredničko vijeće / Editorial Board: ​Srđ Mountain Trail Tilda Bogdanović, Izložba / Exhibition Aida Cvjetković, “Dubrovnik, a Scarred City” Napisala / By Varina Jurica Turk ...... 68 Marin Ivanović, Miho Katičić, Napisala / By Julijana Antić Brautović...... 22 Lukša Lucianović, Ðuro Market, Damir Račić, Mladi dubrovački plivač Jelka Tepšić, Romana Vlašić MANFRED GRAF Young Dubrovnik Swimmer MARIO ŠURKOVIĆ Lektori / Proofreaders: Napisala / By Katarina Fiorović ...... 26 Mirjana Kaznačić Napisao / By Mislav Ćimić ...... 72 Prijevodi / Translations: 1OO GODINA / YEARS Luna Polić Barović Rogač CARIN Carob Korektura prijevoda / Dubrovački arhiva Translations Proofreading Napisala / By Maja Rilović Koprivica ...... 74 Rebecca Charry Roje Dubrovnik Archives Oblikovanje / Design: Napisao / By Nikša Selmani ...... 30 Kapara / The Caper m&m, Dubrovnik

Napisala / By Aida Cvjetković ...... 78 Fotografije / Photography: Vaterpolo klub / Water Polo Club MIHO SKVRCE JUG Renesansni vrt Foto-arhiva / Photo-archives: ...... 34 TZ grada Du­brovnika Renaissance Garden Dubrovnik Tourist Board

...... 80 Naklada / Printing run: Muzej Crvene povijesti 7.500 Red History Museum Štrudel od dunje /Quince Strudel Tisak / Print: Napisao / By Igor Mlinarić ...... 38 Alfa-2 Napisala / By Jadranka Ničetić ...... 82 MATO CELESTIN MEDOVIĆ Događanja u Dubrovniku 2020. Napisao / By Marin Ivanović ...... 44 Dubrovnik Events 2020 ...... 85 JUŽINA / SIROCCO

Foto / Photo By Hrvoje Margaretić...... 48

ANTUN MASLE Naslovnica / Cover photo: Napisala / By Jelena Tamindžija ...... 50 Tiramole Traditional Clotheslines

Dobro došli u Dubrovnik / Welcome to Dubrovnik 3 Poštovani posjetitelji

Hvala vam što ste upravo naš Grad izabrali kao odredište koje ćete posjetiti i u kojemu ćete uživati. Dubrovnik je, a to ćete vrlo brzo po dolasku u naš Grad i spoznati, s pravom nazivan hrvatskom Atenom. Stoljeća povijesti vidljiva su na svakom koraku, u svakoj gradskoj ulici i u svakom kamenu od kojega je Grad sazdan. I nije samo ljepota ono što je ovaj Grad krasilo, i još uvijek krasi. Dubrovnik je krasila i politička mudrost Mato Franković njegovih stanovnika. Stoga ne čudi da je upravo Dubrovnik tijekom niza Gradonačelnik Grada Dubrovnika Mayor of Dubrovnik stoljeća (1358.-1815.) jedini u ovom dijelu Svijeta uživao u slobodi, okružen velikim silama i naizgled stiješnjen na po hollywoodskim i bollywoodskim svojoj Laus hridi. Sloboda je nešto što mega hitovima, svake godine ima je ovaj Grad, i kao Republika, i kao značajne obljetnice, od kojih su neke dio samostalne hrvatske države, znao zaista vrijedne šire pozornosti. Ove Grad s tolikom i takvom poviješću, cijeniti. Sloboda je ono što je postavljeno godine ćemo obilježiti čak 600 godina kao Grad kojega ste odabrali za posjet, kao najveći cilj. Slobodi je posvećen i od osnutka Ljekarne u Domus Christi, iskustvo je koje se pamti zauvijek, natpis iznad ulaza u utvrdu Lovrjenac, jedne od najstarijih europskih i svjetskih bili u njemu tijekom ljeta te uživali u a kaže kako „svo blago svijeta nije socijalnih ustanova koja i danas radi. njemu i njegovim otocima i okolici, ili vrijedno slobode“. Kako kroz stoljeća, pak odabrali neko drugo doba godine. I slavni firentinski arhitekt Michelozzo tako je i u osvit hrvatske države Neponovljiva povijest, niz kulturnih di Bartolomeo Michelozzi dao je veliki Dubrovnik dao svoj obol u borbi za događanja i memorija na filmske obol gradnji Dubrovnika, pa ćemo slobodu tijekom Domovinskoga rata. spektakle snimane posljednjih godina, zahvaljujući i njemu ove godine obilježiti ali i iznimna eno-gastronomska ponuda, Tu posljednju bitku za slobodu, kroz 500 godina od završetka gradnje utvrde jamac je da ste odabrali najbolje moguće prikaz razaranja i obnove, pokazali Bokar, rađene prema njegovom projektu mjesto za odmor. smo izložbom „Dubrovnik, a Scarred napravljenome nekoliko desetljeća City“ u sjedištu Ujedinjenih naroda u ranije. Cijeli potez obrambenoga Hvala vam što ste odabrali upravo nas New Yorku, a zatim i u Washingtonu. predziđa od utvrde Asimon do Bokara, i naš Grad. Želim vam u svoje ime, i u Izložbu sada možete vidjeti u kompleksu kao najveći fotifikacijski poduhvat tog ime Grada, ugodan boravak. Lazareta, prošle godine obnovljenom vremena, a kojemu se i danas svi dive, S poštovanjem jedinstvenom kompleksu nekadašnje djelo je ovog Firentinca. karantene na istočnom ulazu u Grad, a U ovoj 2020.godini obilježava se i niz koja je u potpunosti posvećena kulturi i kulturnih događaja. Pred nama su: kreativnome stvaralaštvu. obljetnica 350. godina od tiskanja Godina pred nama svakako će biti prvoga izdanja „Kristijade“ pjesnika obilježena i činjenicom da će Hrvatska Ðona Palmotte, 250. godišnjica rođenja do konca lipnja predsjedati Europskom dubrovačkoga pjesnika Bara Bettere unijom te da će i Dubrovnik u i 250. godišnjica smrti pjesnika Bara tom kontekstu imati svoju ulogu - Boškovića, starijega brata slavnoga upravo preko kulture. Grad poput dubrovačkog fizičara i diplomata Ruđera Dubrovnika, sada svjetski poznatom Boškovića.

4 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Dear Visitors

Thank you for choosing our city as your destination, to visit and to enjoy. As you will come to know very soon upon ar- rival in our city, Dubrovnik is rightfully Grad called the Athens of Croatia. Centuries Dubrovnik of history are visible at every turn, in every city street and in every stone. But Dubrovnik has not only been given great beauty, it has also been gifted with the political wisdom of its inhab- itants. It is not surprising, therefore, that for many centuries (1358-1815), Dubrovnik was the only city in this part of the world to enjoy political independence, a tiny islet surrounded on all sides by great powers. Freedom has always been the highest objective this context – precisely through culture. of this city, both during the time of the Dubrovnik, now world-renowned as Dubrovnik Republic and today as part a filming location for Hollywood and of the independent Croatian state. As is Bollywood mega hits, has significant 250th anniversary of the birth of the inscribed in Latin into the stone above anniversaries each year, some of which Dubrovnik poet Baro Bettera, and the the entrance to Fort Lovrjenac “Freedom are truly worthy of wider attention. This 250th anniversary of the death of the is not to be sold for all the treasures in year we will mark 600 years since the poet Baro Bošković, the elder brother the world”. Throughout the centuries, founding of the pharmacy in the Fran- of the famous Dubrovnik physicist and and more recently in the dawn of the ciscan monastery of Domus Christi, one diplomat Ruđer Bošković. Croatian state, Dubrovnik contributed of the oldest European and world social to the fight for freedom during the institutions which is still in operation Your visit to Dubrovnik, a city with so Homeland War. even today. much history, is an experience to be re- membered forever, whether you are vis- The story of this last battle for freedom, The famous Florentine architect Mich- iting during the summer and enjoying the destruction and rebuilding of the elozzo di Bartolomeo Michelozzi made the city and its islands and surround- city, is told in the exhibition “Du- significant contributions to the construc- ings, or perhaps during another time brovnik, a Scarred City.” The exhibi- tion of Dubrovnik, so thanks to him this of the year. A unique history, a series of tion was shown at the United Nations year we will mark the 500th anniversary cultural events and memories of the film headquarters in New York and then of the completion of the Bokar fort. The spectacles that have been made here in in Washington, D.C., and can now be entire span of the secondary walled de- recent years, as well as exceptional wine seen at the Lazareti complex, the unique fense from the fortress Asimon to Bokar, and gastronomy choices, promise you an quarantine complex at the eastern as the greatest fortification initiative of exciting and memorable stay. entrance to the city, renovated last year that time, and which is admired to this and entirely dedicated to culture and day, is the work of this Florentine. Thank you for choosing us and our city. creative arts. Personally and on behalf of the City of This year 2020 is also marked by a Dubrovnik, I wish you a pleasant stay! The year ahead will certainly be marked series of cultural events. Ahead of us by the fact that Croatia will preside over are: the 350th anniversary of the print- Sincerely the European Union until the end of ing of the first edition of Christiade by June. Dubrovnik will also play its role in the poet Junije Džono Palmotić, the

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 5 Intervju Napisala Sandra Lacković Foto Zen Lefort Antoneta Alamat Kusijanović - mlada dubrovačka redateljica pod zaštitom Martina Scorsesea

ijest da će producentska kuća producenti i agenti. Kontaktirali su me sam i oduševljena njezinom snagom, Sikelia Prods Martina Scorsesea i pitali koji je sljedeći korak u mojoj podrškom, ta naša posebna povezanost Vuz RT Features Rodriga Teixeire karijeri. trebala bi se osjetiti i na platnu. Film je sufinancirati i koproducirati debitantski psihološka obiteljska drama, s notama dugometražni film „Murina“ dubrovačke Koliko vam je kao mladoj oportunizma, korupcije i rasprodaje redateljice Antonete Alamat Kusijanović redateljici važna suradnja sa hrvatske zemlje za lagan život. odjeknula je u hrvatskoj javnosti. Scorseseom? Rezultat je to višegodišnjega rada. Uz Graciju Filipović, u filmu Nakon što je diplomirala produkciju On je zaista master u svom poslu, glume Leon Lučev, Danica na zagrebačkoj Akademiji dramskih jako cijenim njegov filmski opus, Ćurčić te novozelandski umjetnosti, Dubrovkinja je magistrirala osobito film Taxist. Imati Martina glumac s holivudskom filmsku umjetnost na Sveučilištu Scorsesea za mentora na svom prvom adresom Cliff Curtis. Uspjeli Columbia u New Yorku. Film je filmu nevjerojatna je podrška i zaštita. ste okupiti respektabilnu proteklog ljeta snimala na hrvatskim Istodobno, netko kao on, iznimno je glumačku ekipu. otocima, a montira ga u Zagrebu. Radi bitan za plasman filma na festivale i u i po 15 sati dnevno, zadovoljna je svim kino distribuciju. Ovakav projekt na svakoj razini fazama stvaranja „Murine.“ produkcije i kreativnog tima ima Kako je prošao vaš susret, je iznimne umjetnike. Helene Louvart Možete li objasniti kako li vam Martin Scorsese nešto snimateljica je filma, Evgueni Galperine, je došlo do suradnje s savjetovao, sugerirao ? s kojim sam već prije surađivala, Martinom Scorseseom, jednim je skladatelj, Julij Zornik dizajner Rekao je da sam u dobrim rukama, da od najvećih redatelja svih zvuka, Vlado Gojun montažer, a trebam radit samo svoj film, ničiji drugi. vremena? naša Dubrovkinja Amela Bakšić je kostimografkinja. Kad iza sebe imate Nakon što je moj kratkometražni Možete li nam predstaviti snažnu producentsku kuću primamljivi studentski film U plavetnilo osvojio „Murinu“, riječ je o ste agentima. Zato imamo izuzetno nagradu na Berlinskome filmskom svojevrsnom nastavku vašeg jaku glumačku ekipu, Danica Ćurčić festivalu, a tijekom 2017-te bio nagrađivanog kratkog filma izvanredna je glumica u Danskoj, uspješno plasiran na svim važnijim U plavetnilo? poznata u cijeloj Europi, Cliff Curtis je filmskim festivalima, film su primijetili glumac kojeg sam prvi put zapazila u Murina je nastavak „Plavetnila“ u filmu Dark horse i od tada sam željela s smislu što pratimo isti lik, samo što njim surađivati. ona sad ima 17 godina, starija je tri godine. Pratimo je u svijetu odraslih kroz neke njezine konflikte i probleme Snimali ste 40-ak dana na koji dolaze sa željom da otiđe iz svog otocima Kalamoti, Hvaru i miljea, izgradi vlastitu snagu i osobnost. Kornatima. Kako je prošlo Glumi je mlada Dubrovkinja Gracija snimanje? Filipović. Suradnja s Gracijom Filipović Na Kalamoti smo snimali podvodne za nas obje bilo je nevjerojatno snimke, uglavnom špilje, po noći smo iskustvo. To je naš prvi zajednički osvjetljavali Bezdan, bilo je iznimno film i to prvijenac. Impresionirana uzbudljivo i prekrasno. Snimanje je

6 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. bilo intenzivno. Teško je bilo početi u biti svjetska premijera „Murine“, to ovisi To znači da sam svake godine uključena srcu turističke sezone, borili smo se s o svjetskim selektorima i festivalima. u izbor novih nominacija za Oscara. gužvama jer smo željeli postići izolaciju, Nadamo se da će film biti primljen Dakle, u prosincu počinje period opustošenu prirodu. Kako je odmicao na jedan od A festivala, i tako biti glasanja kada gledamo preliminarno rujan bilo je sve lakše. Posebno na plasiran na svjetskoj razini . Planiram selekciju filmova, onda biramo filmove Kornatima koji kao da su neki drugi i regionalnu premijeru, te posebnu za nominacije, nakon toga je glasanje za planet. Najdulje smo snimali na Hvaru, premijeru u Dubrovniku. Oscara. Imam priliku biti dio filmskog 25 dana, u uvali Dubovica. To je glavna svijeta, članovi kojeg su najtalentiraniji lokacija u koju je smještena priča, u vili Možemo li očekivati dolazak ljudi, ne samo Amerike, nego cijeloga iz 16. stoljeća. Martina Scorsesea i glumačke Svijeta, to je velika čast. ekipe na dubrovačku Film montirate u Zagrebu, premijeru? Pripremate li nove projekte, s montažerom Vladimirom imate li vremena uz rad na Gojunom, još jednim Nadam se da će Martin Scorsese doći Murini? uspješnim Dubrovčaninom na svjetsku premijeru. Pitati ću ga hoće Pripremam projekt koji je prvi podržao u filmskom svijetu. Hoćete li doći u Dubrovnik, ja dobro znam Grad Dubrovnik. Zove se Mara i Lea i li postprodukciju raditi u „plasirati“ Dubrovnik pa možda, tko to će biti moj prvi sljedeći dugometražni inozemstvu? zna? Glumci će sigurno doći i podržati film. Jako im se svidio Dubrovnik. film. Postprodukciju slike radimo u Zagrebu, Proveli smo puno vremena na Stradunu, zvuka u Sloveniji, a glazbu u Francuskoj. plažama, dobrim restoranima. Mislim da Antonetu Alamat Kusijanović proglasili Film bi trebao biti završen i spreman za njima neće biti teško vratiti se. su novom nadom hrvatskog filma. plasman do trećeg mjeseca. Redateljica višestruko nagrađivanog filma Američka akademija filmskih U plavetnilo, kojoj je Martin Scorsese Gdje će se održati svjetska umjetnosti i znanosti nedavno mentor, a članica je Američke akademije premijera filma? je Vanji Černjulu i vama uputila filmskih umjetnosti i znanosti, nadišla je poziv za članstvo. Velika je to hrvatske okvire... Najprije moram u Dubrovniku održati čast i priznanje za vaš rad. Što premijeru „U plavetnilo“ jer to dosad to točno znači, koje su vaše nismo stigli napraviti. Ne znam gdje će obveze?

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 7 INTERVIEW By Sandra Lacković Photo Zen Lefort Antoneta Alamat Kusijanović - a young Dubrovnik director under the wing of Martin Scorsese

ews that Martin Scorsese’s They contacted me and asked what the special connection between us should production house Sikelia next step in my career would be. also be felt on screen. The film is a NProds, together with psychological family drama, and touches Rodrigo Teixeira’s RT Features, will As a young director, on themes of opportunism, corruption co-finance and co-produce the debut how important to you is and the sale of Croatian land for easy feature film “Murina” by Dubrovnik cooperation with Scorsese? living. director Antoneta Alamat Kusijanović reverberated strongly in Croatia. This He is indeed a master; I greatly In addition to Grazija is the result of many years of work. appreciate his film opus, especially the Filipović, Leon Lučev, Danica After graduating from the Zagreb movie “Taxi Driver”. Having Martin Ćurčić and New Zealand Academy of Dramatic Arts with a major Scorsese as a mentor on your first actor with a Hollywood in production, the Dubrovnik native movie makes for amazing support and address, Cliff Curtis, star earned her Master’s degree in Film Arts protection. At the same time, someone in the film. You managed to at Columbia University in New York. like him is also extremely important assemble a respected group of She filmed the movie this past summer for film placement at festivals and for actors. on Croatian islands and it is being cinema distribution. edited in Zagreb. She works up to 15 This project has exceptional artists at hours a day, pleased with all the stages How did your meeting go, each level of production and on the of creating “Murina”. did Martin Scorsese give you creative team. Hélène Louvart is the advice, suggest anything? cinematographer, Evgueni Galperine, Tell us how the with whom I have collaborated before, He said that I was in good hands, that I collaboration with Martin is a composer, Julij Zornik sound should only do my film, nobody else’s. Scorsese, one of the greatest designer, Vlado Gojun film editor, directors of all time, and Dubrovnik’s own Amela Bakšić Can you introduce us to happened. is costume designer. We have a strong “Murina”, a sort of sequel to production company backing us which After my student short film “Into the your award-winning short is important, as well as an exceptionally Blue” won the award at the Berlin Film film “Into the Blue”? strong acting team. Danica Ćurčić is Festival, and was successfully ranked at an outstanding actress in Denmark, “Murina” is the continuation of “Into all major film festivals in 2017, the film known throughout Europe, Cliff Curtis the Blue” in the sense that we follow was noticed by producers and agents. is an actor that I first noticed in “Dark a similar character, except that she is Horse” and ever since then I have now three years older, at 17. We follow wanted to work with him. her in the world of adults through some of the conflicts and problems You filmed for about 40 days that come with the desire to leave her on the islands of Kalamota, milieu, develop her own strength and Hvar and Kornati. How did personality. She is played by young the shooting go? Dubrovnik actress Gracija Filipović. Cooperation with Gracija Filipović was At Kalamota we did underwater an incredible experience for both of us. footage, mostly caves, while at night we It’s our first feature film together and it illuminated the Abyss, it was extremely is a debut. I am impressed and delighted exciting and wonderful. Shooting was with her strength, support, and that

8 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. intense. It was difficult to start at the of “Murina” will be, it depends on world it mean, what are your peak of the tourist season, we struggled selectors and festivals. We hope that obligations? with the crowds because we wanted to the film will be admitted to one of the That means that every year I am achieve a look of isolation, and desolate A level festivals, and thus be marketed involved in the selection of new nature. As September progressed, it globally. I am also planning a regional Oscar nominations. So, in December became easier. Especially so on the premiere, and a special premiere in the voting period begins, when we Kornati islands which felt like another Dubrovnik. preliminarily watch the selection of planet. We filmed the longest on Hvar, films, then we choose the movies for the 25 days, in Dubovica Bay. This is the Can we expect the arrival of nominations, and then the Oscar voting main location where the story is set, in a Martin Scorsese and the team takes place. I have a chance to be a part 16th century villa. of actors at the Dubrovnik premiere? of the film world, whose members are the most talented people, not only of You are editing the film in America, but the whole world. It’s a Zagreb, with editor Vladimir I hope Martin Scorsese will come to great honor. Gojun, another successful the world premiere. I will ask him if Dubrovnik native in the film he will come to Dubrovnik, I am good Are you preparing new world. Will you be doing at “marketing” Dubrovnik, so maybe, projects, do you have time to postproduction abroad? who knows? The actors will certainly come and support the film. They liked work on Murina? We are doing visual postproduction in Dubrovnik very much. We spent a lot of I am preparing a project that was first Zagreb, sound in Slovenia and music in time on Stradun, beaches, and in good supported by the City of Dubrovnik. It France. The film should be completed restaurants. I don’t think it’s going to is called “Mara and Lea” and will be my and ready for release by March. be hard for them to come back. next feature film. Where will the world The American Academy Antoneta Alamat Kusijanović has been premiere of the film be held? of Film Arts and Sciences invited Vanja Černjul and proclaimed a rising star of Croatian film. She First, I have to hold the premiere of you to become members. is the director of the multiple award-winning “Into the Blue” in Dubrovnik, because It’s a great honor and film “Into the Blue”, mentored by Martin so far we haven’t been able to do that. acknowledgement for your Scorsese and a Member of the American I don’t know where the world premiere work. What exactly does Academy of Film Arts and Sciences.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 9

sv. Vlaho i sv. Blaž - čvrsta su poveznica Dubrovnika i Zagreba

Napisala Maja Nodari

rvati za sveca, liječnika, mu predali žezlo i gradske ključe. Prema sliku sa svetim Blažem u tehnici ulja na biskupa i kršćanskog kraljevskoj Zlatnoj buli (povlastici platnu, o vlastitom trošku za ures kuće Hmučenika iz armenske podijeljenoj 1242.) birali su građani s magistrata, kako govori latinski zapis. Sebaste imaju dva imena, Blaž i Vlaho. Gradca na dan sv. Blaža sami suca, iudex Slobodna kraljevska varoš na brdu Ta dva imena sveca zaštitnika ujedno civitatis, zatim osam prisežnika i dvadeset Gradecu dobila je novi sustav gradske povezuju i dva važna hrvatska grada: i četiri vijećnika. Tako je bio sastavljen uprave na Blaževo 1609. godine. glavni grad Republike Hrvatske magistrat.” Promjene potvrđene novim Statutom Zagreb i njegov južni povijesni dragulj Povijesni prikaz sv. Blaža na slici gradske uprave uz neke izmjene iz 1618. Dubrovnik. Da se Dubrovnik naziva povećeg formata (120x100) koja se godine ostale su najvećim dijelom na Gradom sv. Vlaha i da mu je nebeski nalazi u postavu Muzeja grada Zagreba snazi do sredine 19. stoljeća, nakon zaštitnik odrednica identiteta, zajedno sa prikazuje sveca u biskupskom ornatu čega Blažev patronat nad Gradecom slavnom Festom, što se više od milenija s mitrom i pastoralom, kako čini čudo blijedi. zdušno slavi svake veljače - dobro je nad dječakom, uklanjajući mu kost iz Slika je izložena u stalnom postavu poznata činjenica. grla, blagoslivljajući ga i spašavajći Muzeja grada Zagreba uz ostala gradska Manje je poznato da je sv. Blaž (uz od gušenja. Prizor potvrđuje legendu o znamenja, kao što su zastave grada, sv. Marka) bio u povijesti zaštitnik zazivanju sv. Blaža protiv bolesti grla. pečatnjaci gradske općine, diplome, slobodnog i kraljevskog grada na Slika je rad nepoznatog autora, no simbolične gradske ključeve i počasni zagrebačkom brdu Gradec o čemu znanog naručitelja i donatora. Gospodin lanac gradskog načelnika. svjedoči i jedna slika iz 18. stoljeća - Adam Ballogh, varoški sudac u tri I tako je ova slika s prikazom sv. Blaža kao izuzetni dokument i podsjetnik navrata, dao je 1749. godine naslikati ocrtala, ne samo kulturnu povijest na zagrebačka stoljeća, na gotovo Zagreba, već ostavila dokaz štovanja zaboravljeni datum 3. veljače, kada su se sveca na hrvatskim prostorima, gdje o godu sv. Blaža donosile odluke prema mu slike i nisu baš česte, izuzimajući kojima se stoljećima odvijao život u dubrovačku sredinu i okolicu. gradu, o čemu svjedoče i zapisi uglednih Svake veljače, Dubrovčani koji žive u kroničara Dragutina Hirca i Gjure Zagrebu, ali i mnogobrojni štovatelji sv. Szaba (obojica autori istoimenih knjiga Vlaha, okupljaju se na slavlje u Crkvi sv. Stari Zagreb) : “Izbor gradskoga sudca Blaža, djelu slavnog arhitekta Viktora obavljao se na Blaževo, koje pada na treći Kovačića, na Prilazu Gjure Deželića, dan mjeseca veljače. Birali su ga u gradskoj održavajući kult zaštitnika i lijepu viećnici ili pred njom na trgu sv. Marka. tradiciju štovanja nebesnika, zaštitnika Kad je kralj izbor sudca povrdio, položio starodrevnoga Dubrovnika i bijeloga je u crkvi sv. Marka prisegu poslije koje su Zagreba.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 11 12 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. St. Blaise – a strong link between Dubrovnik and Zagreb

By Maja Nodari

roats have two names for in the Church of St. Mark after which the with some amendments from 1618, the saint, doctor, bishop and scepter and the city keys were given to him. largely remained in force until the mid- CChristian martyr from the According to the Royal Golden Bull (a 19th century, after which St. Blaise’s Armenian city of Sebastia (today Sivas, privilege bestowed in 1242), on St. Blaise’s patronage over Gradec faded. Turkey) – Blaž and Vlaho. Day citizens of Gradac elected a judge themselves, Iudex Civitatis, then eight sworn The painting is exhibited as part of the These two names of the patron men and twenty-four councilors. This is how permanent display of the Zagreb City saint also connect two important the magistrate was assembled. Museum along with other city signs, Croatian cities: the capital city of the such as the city flags, city municipal Republic of Croatia, Zagreb, and its Historical representation of St. Blaise seals, diplomas, symbolic city keys and southern historical jewel, Dubrovnik. in a large painting (120 x 100 cm), the City Mayor’s honorary chain. Many people know that St. Blaise is which is on display in the Zagreb Dubrovnik’s patron saint and heavenly City Museum, depicts the saint in the And so, this picture depicting St. protector, honored with the glorious bishop’s ornament with a mitre and Blaise outlined not only the cultural Festivity of St. Blaise, which has been a pastoral, performing a miracle over history of Zagreb but also left evidence celebrated every February for more than a boy by removing a bone from his of veneration of the saint in Croatian a millennium. throat, blessing him and saving him lands, where his paintings are not that from suffocation. The scene confirms common, excluding Dubrovnik and its It is less known that in history St. the legend of the invocation of St. Blaise surroundings. Blaž (along with St. Mark) was the against diseases of the throat. protector of the free and royal city on Every February, people from Dubrovnik the Zagreb hill of Gradec, as depicted in The painting is the work of an unknown who live in Zagreb, but also many an 18th century painting, an exceptional author but of a known sponsor and other worshippers of St. Blaise, gather document and a reminder of Zagreb in donor. In the year 1749, Mr. Adam to celebrate in the Church of St. past centuries when on St. Blaise’s Day, Ballogh, a three-term city judge, Blaž (Blaise), the work of the famous on the almost forgotten date of February commissioned a painting with Saint architect Viktor Kovačić, maintaining 3rd, decisions governing the life of the Blaise in the technique of oil on canvas, the cult of St. Blaise and the beautiful city used to be made, as evidenced by at his own expense, for the decoration of tradition of worshiping him as heavenly the writings of prominent chroniclers. the House of the Magistrate, according protector, the patron saint of ‘Old to an inscription in Latin. Dubrovnik’ and ‘White Zagreb’. The selection of the city judge was performed on St. Blaise’s Day, which falls on the On St. Blaise’s Day in the year 1609, third day of February. City councilors chose the free royal city on Gradec hill got the judge in the City Hall or in front of it a new city administration system. on St. Mark’s Square. Once confirmed by The changes confirmed by the new the king, the judge took the pledge of oath Statute of the city administration,

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 13 14 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. na potpuno drugačiji način. Iza freško oprane robe krije se priča s toliko elemenata da ju je teško staviti u jednu Tiramole sliku. Kriju se sve emocije koje se vrtlože među vlasnicima odjeće, obiteljska – svjedoci života u Gradu okupljanja i rastanci, neplanirane igre i veselja, promjene godišnjih doba, borbe suvremenog i nasljeđa, onoga

Napisala Lorita Vierda što više volimo, i despet. Iako nam se teško penjati do najviših katova kuća, itko se više ne može sjetiti da će biti najbolje ignorirati nečiju naginjati se dok gotovo visimo samo kome je prvome palo na potpuno začuđujuću ideju o vizurama na prstima preko prozora, potežemo i Npamet, ali dvostruki konop javnih površina i onome što se tamo ne ravnamo robu, ponešto nam i ispadne rastegnut između dva mala kolotura smije vidjeti. Zato i ne volimo zgrade sa iz ruku na ulicu, pa će trebati sve zabijena u kutove zgrada, u narodu stanovima bez balkona, kuće u Gradu ponovo, ali neka. Iz despeta. I iz ljepote. poznatiji kao tiramola, izum je kojega i unutar Zidina između kojih se ne vijori I praktičnosti tiramole, iako ama baš danas teško mogu zamijeniti tehnološka ništa nego prikupljena prašina, odjeću svakom prolazniku daje otvoren ulaz čuda poput sušilice za rublje. koja, uz mirise svježine iz perilice, nije u naše živote, sve se na njoj vidi, i što Traži pozornost vlasnika, nekad i noću, pokupila i čisti zrak kojeg sa sobom nosi bismo htjeli i što bismo svakako htjeli ako je jak vjetar ili se sprema kiša, a roba prvi dan bure. skriti od svijeta. Kompromis kojeg baš se još nije osušila. Svaka je minuta bitna, U kišnim mjesecima likuju oni sa i ne želimo, ali... Neke među nama uči ako se s tiramole roba skine prerano bit sušilicama, njima životni prostori nisu otvorenosti, neke stvari moraš pokazati će vlažna, prikupit će i onaj čudan miris, pretrpani robom raspoređenom po iako radije ne bi. Oni kojima se ideja ako se ostavi predugo ili će pokisnuti, pa stolicama, radijatorima, policama, o ukidanju tiramole rodila u glavi, treba sve ispočetka, ili će se toliko spržiti vješalicama, gdje god se što može raširiti ovaj naš način sušenja rublja čini se na suncu da će ‘kost’ u koju se pretvorila da bi se u danima visoke vlage kroz sirotinjski, za njih je to znak bijede i biti neugodna za nošenje. Vjetar je ipak koji dan osušila. Onima koji je imaju, nemogućnosti ‘boljega’. Nesvjesni koliko posebna priča, on će robu s tiramole tiramola je jedna od najvažnijih potreba su u krivu, ustraju u tome, a na nama s možda samo zapetljati, ili je odnijeti i svakodnevnice. U Gradu u Zidinama, duhom je boriti se protiv ubijanja našega nekoliko stotina metara dalje, pa ćete, ona je na najvišoj mogućoj točki kuće. načina života. Onog lijepog, kakav je u ne daj Bože, imati posla sa susjedom s Jedan je dio obično na kantunu tvoje, Gradu zaista bio, pa makar i samo na kojim možda i niste u dobrim odnosima. a drugi na kantunu susjedove kuće, jer tiramoli. S druge strane, upravo u tom trenu tako je najdulja, a nikome ne smeta. možda počinje i neko prijateljstvo, nikad Obično škripi, za objesiti robu treba se ne zna. se dobro rastegnuti, i potezati dok Robu koja veselo leprša između kuća na roba ne dođe na određeno mjesto, ulici može se vidjeti u svim zemljama i otkriva sve ono što se događa u jednoj gradovima na Svijetu s toplom klimom obitelji, jednom životu, jednoj kući. poput naše, a i tamo je, kao i kod Ili ne događa. Obično, ako tiramole nas, jasan i simpatičan znak života. nema, nema ni stanara, nema života, Dubrovačke su ulice nažalost zadnjih pa je zbog toga i ta vizura koju neki godina sve manje okupane mirisom pokušavaju ‘zaštititi’ od gaćica, bječava svježe oprane odjeće, sve manje ljudi, i lincula, pusta. Kamen i kap sunca koje kad prolaze ulicama, gledaju uvis, prodire u gradske ulice tada nemaju tražeći makar i mali znak da tu netko ni okusa ni mirisa, i ostavljaju dojam živi. da je sve ovo oko nas samo fasada. Na sam spomen ukidanja tiramole Ako je roba na tiramoli tu, prizor se Dubrovčani su se uznemirili, i shvatili običnom prolazniku – gledatelju otvara

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 15 Traditional clotheslines – Witnesses of life in the city

16 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. By Lorita Vierda of public spaces and what should not be seen there. That is why we don’t like o one can remember any apartment buildings without balconies, more who was the first to or houses inside the Old City walls Nthink of it, but the double that lack anything fluttering besides rope stretched between two small accumulating dust, or clothes that, pulleys jammed into the corners of along with the fresh scent from the buildings, the humble tiramola, is an washing machine did not also pick up invention which to this day is difficult to the clean scent of the northern bora replace, even with technological miracles wind. such as clothes dryers. Those few residents with clothes dryers These traditional clothes lines claim revel during the rainy months, as their their owners’ attention, even at night, if living spaces are not overcrowded the wind is strong or it’s about to rain with drying laundry piled over chairs, Hidden there are the emotions that and the clothes haven’t dried yet. Every radiators, shelves, hangers, wherever swirl among the owners of the clothes, minute is important; if the laundry is something can be spread out so that the family gatherings and partings, removed too early, it will be damp and it eventually dries during the days of unplanned games and celebrations, get that strange smell and if left for too high humidity. For those who have it, changes of the seasons, the struggle long it will either get wet in the rain, the outdoor clotheslines on pulleys are between the contemporary and legacy, so you must go back to square one, or one of the most important necessities of that which we like most. Of course it it will fry so much in the sun that the of everyday life. In the Old City within is difficult to climb to the highest floors ‘stiff leather’ that it turns into will be the city walls, it is placed at the highest of houses, to lean out from windows as unpleasant to wear. The wind is yet possible point of the house. One end we hang almost on our tiptoes, and then another story, as it might just tangle is usually placed on the corner of your draw and straighten the clothes while the laundry on the line or blow it a few house and the other on the corner of the some items inevitably drop out of our hundred meters away, so that you have neighbor’s house, because in that way hands onto the street thus requiring to, God forbid, deal with a neighbor the rope is the longest and it is not in that we do it all over again, but let it with whom you may not be on good anyone’s way. Tiramola usually creak; be. We will keep our old clotheslines. terms. On the other hand, that very in order to hang the clothes you have Out of spite. And beauty. And sheer moment might be the beginning of a to stretch yourself considerably and practical usefulness.. But more than friendship, one never knows. draw the line until the clothes come that, our clotheslines offer an open door to a certain place, thereby revealing into our lives to every single passer-by, Clothes that flutter merrily between the everything that happens in one family, everything is seen on it, that which we houses on the street can be seen in all one life, one home. Or, doesn’t happen. would like to be seen and that which countries and cities in the world with Usually, if there is no clothesline, that we would definitely want to hide from warm climates like ours, and there, like means there are no tenants, there is no the world. A compromise that we here, it is an apparent and charming life. So the cityscape that some people don’t really want, but ... this teaches sign of life. Regrettably, in recent years try to ‘protect’ from panties, socks and openness to some of us, we must show Dubrovnik streets have been less filled sheets, ends up barren. The stone and some things even though we’d rather with the scent of freshly washed clothes, rays of sunlight that penetrate into the not. To those who came up with the with fewer people passing through the city streets then neither have taste nor idea of removing tiramole, this way of streets looking up or for even a small smell and leave the impression that all drying laundry seems poor. For them sign that someone lives there. this around us is just a staged façade. it is a sign of poverty and the inability to do ‘better’. Unaware of how wrong Recently, at the mention of a possibility If the clothes are on the line the view they are, they persist, and it is up to us of a regulation prohibiting these is seen by an ordinary passer-by in a guardians of spirit to fight against the traditional clothes pulleys in the old completely different way. The freshly killing of our way of life. That which is town, the locals were disturbed, but washed clothes hide a story with so beautiful, as the city really was, even if quickly realized that it would be best to many elements that makes it difficult just on the tiramola. ignore this completely ridiculous idea to squeeze it all into a single picture.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 17 Napisala Ivana Radić

Dubrovnik, a Dubrovačka Republika je - izmišljeni grad genijalnog G.R.R. diplomacijom gradila i očuvala baštinu Martina kojeg je HBO oživio upravo na koja nas okružuje. Umjetnost i teatar dubrovačkim ulicama. Literarno remek su se odavno udomaćili pod našim djelo inspirirano stvarnom poviješću zvijezdama, a sada se fanovi iz čitavoga vatko pronađe nešto za sebe u Europe i Mediterana ugnijezdilo se svijeta okupljaju kako bi posjetili Dubrovniku, a ako ste ljubitelj u ljepotu postojećih ulica, vrtova i predivne lokacije koje su udahnule život S‘Igre prijestolja’ otkrit ćete panorama. Anegdote sa snimanja njihovim najdražim scenama. cijeli paralelni svijet, tek ekran dubok, žive u lokalnom stanovništvu koje je Arboretum Trsteno, gdje su se političke u čudesnom suživotu s okamenjenom imalo sreću postati dijelom globalnoga spletke odvijale tijekom dubrovačke poviješću UNESCO-m zaštićenoga fenomena. Pridružite se milijunima povijesti, imao je gotovo istovjetnu Grada. Između omiljenih vina i gledatelja koji su se približili omiljenoj ulogu i kao vrt matrone Tyrell na tradicionalnoga nakita, među poznatim produkciji kroz usporedbu vizura s ekranu, oduševljavajući predivnom ribljim restoranima i raznovrsnim razglednica i screenshotova iz serije. botaničkom zbirkom. Otok Lokrum je muzejima živi i Kraljev Grudobran Generacije namjernika stvarale su oaza zelenila i mira koja je udahnula

18 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. na ulicama Dubrovnika, King’s Landinga

život Qarthu. Njegovi vrtovi postali su mjestom hodočašća gdje ljubitelji gotovo sve će vam izgledati poznato. serije, poput Khaleesi, mogu tražiti HBO je izbrisao moderne detalje i zmajeve među vrlo stvarnim zečićima prekrojio geografiju, ali je zadržana svoju ljubav savršenom slikom, a sada i paunovima. Tek nekoliko skalina od jedinstvena energija Dubrovnika - naše je to obvezna postaja i za Throniese - glavnoga ulaza u povijesnu jezgru Grada ptice, zvona i vreva. Sličnost je ponekad jednako kao i obilazak replike titularnog pogled puca na zaljev Pile gdje su se u toliko izražena da se i domaći zbune, trona. Između obilaženja scena iz ‘Igre finalu rastali preživjeli članovi obitelji a teška sudbina izmišljenoga grada u prijestolja’, obvezno otkrijte filozofiju Stark, a na klisuri iznad mora, utvrda posljednjoj sezoni mnoge je podsjetila našega ‘pomalo’. Dajte sebi vremena Lovrjenac, stoljećima čuva ulaz u Grad. na vrlo stvaran rat koji je Dubrovnik iskusiti sve što Dubrovnik pruža. Terase s kojih puca jedinstveni pogled preživio pred nepunih 30 godina. U Popijte kavu ‘po naški’ upijajući čaroliju udomile su mnoge omiljene scene staroj jezgri, u Gradu, mnoge su ulice u jednoj od kavana ili se odlučite za unatoč teškom pristupu koji je u ljetnim iskorištene za snimanje. poznato vino, poput Cersei. Dopustite mjesecima testirao predanost statista Najpoznatije lokacije do danas ostaju da vas Grad očara kao što je očarao i u teškim oklopima i haljinama. Čim ulice gdje je sniman Cersein ‘Walk of vaše omiljene glumce - dobro došli u prijeđete drveni pomični most i nađete Shame’. Skale od Jezuita su mjesto gdje King’s Landing, uživajte u Dubrovniku! se među Zidinama i krovovima Grada su oduvijek sretni parovi obilježavali Valar Morghulis, pa zato: Carpe diem!

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 19 on the streets of Dubrovnik, King’s Landing

by Ivana Radić

life among the beauty of existing streets, veryone can find something gardens and panoramas. Anecdotes special for themselves about from filming live on among the local EDubrovnik, and if you are a fan population that was fortunate enough to of Game of Thrones you will recognize become part of the global phenomenon. a familiar world. Among renowned Join the millions of viewers who wines and traditional jewelry, between were brought closer to their favorite famous fish restaurants and various production by comparing views from museums, lives King’s Landing, the postcards and screenshots from the fictional city of the ingenious G.R.R. series. The traditions of art and theater Martin brought alive by HBO on are centuries old here, and now fans the streets of Dubrovnik. A literary from around the world are gathering to masterpiece inspired by the history of visit the beautiful locations that have Europe and the Mediterranean came to breathed life into their favorite scenes.

20 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. The Trsteno Arboretum, where political intrigues have taken place throughout Dubrovnik’s history, has played almost the same role as the garden of the matron Tyrell on screen, delighting viewers with its wonderful botanical collection. Lokrum Island is a green oasis of peace that breathed life into Qarth. Its gardens have become a place of pilgrimage where fans of the series, like Khaleesi, can search for dragons among very real rabbits and peacocks. Only a few steps from the main entrance to the historic center of the city lies Pile Bay, where the surviving members of the Stark family said their goodbyes during the finale. Just above, on the cliff above the sea, the Lovrjenac Fortress guards the entrance to the City. Postproduction experts erased modern The most famous locations to this The terraces that offer unique views details and reshaped geography, but day remain the streets where Cersei’s have witnessed many favorite scenes, kept the unique energy of Dubrovnik “Walk of Shame” was filmed. The Jesuit despite the difficulties that tested – our birds, bells and bustle. The Staircase is a spot where happy couples the dedication of extras, costumed in resemblance is sometimes so pronounced have always captured their love with a heavy armor and gowns during the that even the locals can get confused, perfect image, and now it’s a must-see on the streets of Dubrovnik, summer. As soon as you cross the and the difficult fate of the fictional city for Thronies as well, just like a visit to King’s Landing wooden drawbridge and find yourself in the last season reminded many of the the replica of the Iron Throne. among the walls and roofs of the city, very real war that Dubrovnik survived almost everything will look familiar. almost 30 years ago. In between touring scenes from Game of Thrones, be sure to discover the philosophy behind phrase pomalo or “take it slowly”. Give yourself time to experience all that Dubrovnik has to offer. Have cup of coffee like a local, while absorbing the magic in one of the cafes, or opt for a well-known wine, such as Cersei. Let the city enchant you as it enchanted your favorite actors. Welcome to King’s Landing, enjoy Dubrovnik! Valar Morghulis, therefore: Carpe diem!

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 21 22 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. “Dubrovnik, a Scarred City” – izložba o ratnom stradanju i obnovi Dubrovnika iz New Yorka krenula u Svijet

Napisala Julijana Antić Brautović

zložbom “Dubrovnik, A Iako obrađuje različite aspekte ratnoga detaljan plan poslijeratne obnove Scarred City: stradanje i obnova stradanja Dubrovnika u Domovinskome donesen je u suradnji s UNESCO-om u IDubrovnika 1991. – 2000.”, ratu, od političkih okolnosti napada, veljači 1993. godine. autora Julijane Antić Brautović, Mata preko kronologije rata i stradanja Utvrđene su metode obnove krovišta Brautovića i Gorana Cvjetinovića, šireg dubrovačkoga područja, do te kamenoklesarskih restauratorskih predstavljeno je stradanje Dubrovnika svakodnevice pod opsadom te civilnih radova, kao i Plan realizacije te uslijed ratnog razaranja koje je počinila i vojnih žrtava, izložba se prvenstveno nadležnosti uključenih institucija. Jugoslavenska narodna armija, ali i bavi stradanjem i obnovom povijesne Prioriteti u obnovi bili su 9 spaljenih njegova brza i impresivna obnova. jezgre Dubrovnika, kao zaštićene zgrada te ostale značajnije ili Izložbu je organizirao Grad Dubrovnik UNESCO-ove baštine. konstruktivno ugrožene palače i zgrade, povodom 40. obljetnice uvrštenja Povijesna je jezgra najžešće granatirana Zvonik, krovovi i pročelja na Stradunu, dubrovačke povijesne jezgre na u listopadu, studenome i prosincu najznačajnije oštećeni sakralni objekti, UNESCO-ov Popis svjetske kulturne 1991. te u svibnju i lipnju 1992., iako Stradun, skalini Uz Jezuite i gradske baštine (1979.) i 20. obljetnice njezinog je povremeno granatirana sve do rujna fontane te ulazi u povijesnu jezgru s uklanjanja s Popisa ugrožene svjetske 1995. godine. U tim je napadima oko najznačajnijim tvrđavama i kulama. baštine (1998.), a realizirana je pod dvije tisuće granata različitih kalibara Sustavna obnova počela je već 1992. visokim pokroviteljstvom predsjednice uzrokovalo značajne štete na javnim, godine i trajala je do 2000. godine, a RH Kolinde Grabar Kitarović i Vlade privatnim, sakralnim objektima, ukupna sanacija štete je iznosila je oko RH te uz sponzorstvo Društva prijatelja ulicama, trgovima, krovovima i 35 milijuna dolara. dubrovačke starine i Turkish Airlinesa. gradskim Zidinama. U ratnim Dubrovačko ratno stradanje stvorilo Najprije je bila postavljena u sjedištu razaranjima povijesne jezgre Dubrovnika je dva presedana: UNESCO je prvi Ujedinjenih naroda u New Yorku u oštećeno je 72 posto gradskih zgrada, od put u povijesti svoga djelovanja poslao prosincu prošle godine, nakon čega kojih je 9 u potpunosti izgorjelo, dok su izaslanike u područje zahvaćeno je gostovala u Washingtonu u veljači na još četiri djelomično izgorjeli krovovi. ratom kako bi u suradnji s lokalnim 2019. godine. Trenutno je postavljena Dubrovnik je ratna razaranja dočekao i nacionalnim institucijama zaštitili u Lazaretima, gdje će posjetiteljima biti s ustanovom zaduženom za njegovu te evidentirali, a kasnije i obnovili dostupna do 15. veljače 2020. godine. obnovu koja je kontinuirano djelovala uništenu baštinu svjetskog značaja, U postavu izložbe korištena je građa još od 1979. obnavljajući ga nakon dok su presude zapovjednicima Muzeja Domovinskog rata, Zavoda za razornoga potresa. Zavod za obnovu napada na Dubrovnik Jugoslavenske obnovu Dubrovnika, Društva prijatelja Dubrovnika je, u suradnji s Hrvatskim narodne armije pred UN-ovim Dubrovačkih starina, Ljetnih igara i zavodom za zaštitu spomenika i Međunarodnim kaznenim sudom za Hrvatske radiotelevizije, a prikazane su UNESCO-om, s evidencijom ratnih bivšu Jugoslaviju bile prve presude za i fotografije Petera Dentona, Damira šteta i promišljanjem poslijeratne zločin protiv kulturne baštine u nekom Fabijanića, Boža Gjukića, Ana Marie obnove počeo nakon prvih granatiranja međunarodnom kaznenom postupku. Grill, Mira Kernera, Mila Kovača i Pava Grada. Dok su neophodne sanacije Urbana. rađene usporedo s ratnim razaranjima,

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 23 24 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. “Dubrovnik, a Scarred City” – an exhibition on the wartime destruction and rebuilding of Dubrovnik

BY Julijana Antić Brautović

he exhibition “Dubrovnik, a Fabijanić, Božo Gjukić, Ana Maria Grill, recording war damage and carefully Scarred City: the suffering and Miro Kerner, Milo Kovač and Pavo planning for post-war renewal after Trebuilding of Dubrovnik 1991 Urban. the first shelling of the city. While the – 2000”, by Julijana Antić Brautović, necessary repairs were made in parallel Mato Brautović and Goran Cvjetinović The exhibition addresses various aspects with the war devastation, a detailed shows the suffering of Dubrovnik from of the wartime suffering of Dubrovnik plan of post-war renewal was adopted in wartime destruction committed by the in the Homeland War, from the political co-operation with UNESCO in February Yugoslav People’s Army, as well as its circumstances of the attack, through 1993. swift and impressive rebuilding. the chronology of the war and the suffering of the wider Dubrovnik area, The priorities in the reconstruction The exhibition was organized by the to everyday life under siege and civilian were nine burned buildings and other City of Dubrovnik on the occasion of and military casualties. The primary more significant or construction-wise the 40th anniversary of the inclusion focus of the exhibition is the destruction endangered palaces and buildings, of Dubrovnik’s historic center on and the restoration of the historic center the city Bell Tower, roofs and facades UNESCO’s List of World Cultural of Dubrovnik, as protected UNESCO on the main street of Stradun, the Heritage (1979) and the 20th heritage. most significantly damaged sacral anniversary of its removal from the List objects, Stradun itself, the Jesuit Steps, of Endangered World Heritage Sites The historic center was shelled most city fountains and the gates into the (1998). The exhibition was organized intensively in October, November and historic center with the most important under the high patronage of the December of 1991, and then again fortresses and towers. President of the Republic of Croatia in May and June of 1992, although Kolinda Grabar Kitarović and the occasional shelling continued until Systematic renewal began already in Government of the Republic of Croatia, September 1995. In these attacks, about 1992 and lasted until 2000, and the with the sponsorship of the Association 2,000 shells of different calibers caused total value of damage repair amounted of Friends of Dubrovnik Antiquities significant damage to public, private, to about 35 million dollars. and Turkish Airlines. It was first shown and sacral buildings, streets, squares, at the United Nations Headquarters roofs and the city walls. In the wartime Dubrovnik’s wartime devastation in New York in December 2018, after destruction of Dubrovnik’s historic created two precedents: for the first which it was invited to Washington in center, 72% of the city’s buildings were time ever, UNESCO sent delegates February 2019. It is currently being damaged, of which 9% were completely to an area affected by war to protect shown in Lazareti, where it will be open burned, whereas another 4% of roofs and record and subsequently renew to visitors until 15 February 2020. were partially burned. the destroyed heritage of world importance in cooperation with local A selection from the holdings of the Dubrovnik met war devastation with an and national institutions, while the Museum of the Homeland War, the institution tasked with its restoration, verdicts received by the commanders of Institute for Restoration of Dubrovnik, which had been operating continuously the Yugoslav People’s Army before the the Society of Friends of Dubrovnik since a devastating earthquake in 1979. UN International Criminal Tribunal Antiquities, the Dubrovnik Summer The Institute for Reconstruction of for the former Yugoslavia were the first Festival and Croatian Radio and Dubrovnik, in cooperation with the convictions for crimes against cultural Television was used for the exhibition, as Croatian Institute for the Protection of heritage in an international criminal well as photos by Peter Denton, Damir Monuments and UNESCO, began by proceeding.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 25 Drugi dom Manfreda Grafa Napisala Katarina Fiorović

tudeni je, jesen je donijela kiše i sam odgovarajuću strojnu tehnologiju, samo ljetni, morski odmori, jugo, koje ponekad zamuti razum, ali i nekoliko vlastitih patenata. Ponosan već na Lopudu često slave Sali i neponovljive boje. S tarace sam na našu tvornicu i uspjeh cijele i Božić i Uskrs, ali i Festu svoje kuće iz snova vlasnik tvornice obitelji. A sve je počelo 1919. godine, dubrovačkog parca sv. Vlaha. parketa, inovator i kolekcionar umjetnina malim obrtom s tek dvojicom zaposlenih, Česti dolasci, osobito van iz južnonjemačkog grada Rot am Seeu, a djedovim i očevim trudom, pa na turističke sezone, kad na promatra rani jesenji zalazak sunca. kraju i mojim, a 100 godina poslije to je otoku ima oko 200-tinjak Pogleda uprtog u Lopud , okupan u moderna tvrtka s 40 zaposlenih, ponosno stanovnika, neizbježno su ljubičastom moru i ogrnut bakrenim priča Manfred, koji je zbog svoga posla stvorili bliska prijateljstva i nebom, prisjeća se trenutka, kad je prvi proputovao cijelu Europu i popriličan jedno je vodilo drugom. put, prije 20 godina, s broda zakoračio dio Svijeta, a posao ga je doveo i u na ovaj otok i odmah se zaljubio. Godine Dubrovnik, gdje je pronašao svoj drugi -Prijateljstvo s obitelji Krista Obuljena, su prolazile, a Manfred Graf se vraćao dom. nekadašnjeg predsjednika Mjesnog odbora Lopud, kao i s mnogim drugim Lopudu i Dubrovniku. Upoznao je - Poslom sam 1999. došao u Karlovac. otočnim obiteljima, učinili su da se tu ljude i običaje, zavolio baštinu i prirodu Bilo je to jednogodišnje savjetovanje osjećam, kao doma, uvijek dobrodošao. te u Orašcu napravio vlastiti kutak za u velikoj tvornici parketa. Sprijateljio Moje kćeri provele su većinu svojih uživanje. sam se s vlasnicima pa su oni mene i praznika sa mnom na otoku. Obje su -Rođen sam u malom gradu u Rot moju obitelj ugostili na Lopudu, kao naučile plivati na​​ plaži Šunj. Smetali am Seeu u Južnoj Njemačkoj 1960. zahvalu i priznanje za obavljeni posao. su mi traktori (o.p. na Lopudu nije godine. Moj djed i otac imali su pilanu. Vido Bogdanović, bivši gradonačelnik dozvoljen promet automobilima), koji Bavili su se proizvodnjom i ugradnjom Dubrovnika i dobar prijatelj vlasnika su svako jutro donosili poštu, stvarali parketa. Od djetinjstva su obrada drva tvornice, dočekao nas je na aerodromu i buku i smrad te narušavali otočni i parketi bili svakodnevni dio moga odveo na otok. Zaljubio sam se na prvi mir. Moj prijatelj Dubo i ja smislili smo života. Prirodno sam nastavio školovanje pogled, a kad sam posjetio dubrovačku rješenje. U Njemačkoj sam otkupio i usavršavanje u tom smjeru, a s 20 povijesnu jezgru ta je ljubav samo ojačala. električna vozila iz vojnih zaliha, neka godina, silom prilika, nakon što se otac čak i iz kancelarkinog bunkera i poslao morao povući u mirovinu zbog srčanoga ih kamionom na Lopud. Većina vlasnika udara, preuzeo sam posao. Zbog Nekoliko godina poslije, restorana kupila je nova električna vozila tehničkoga znanja stečenoga u ranim nakon razvoda, Manfred se i Lopud je postao malo tiši. Bilo je tu godinama i iskustva u branši, počeo sam vraća na otok i otada svake puno posla, ali definitivno se isplatilo. se baviti tehničkim savjetovanjem drugih godine četiri tjedna provodi Mnogi me pitaju zašto se iznova vraćam tvornica parketa širom Europe. Prodavao na otoku sa svojim kćerima Nadjom i Charlotte. Nisu to u Dubrovnik. Puno sam lijepih gradova,

26 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Drugi dom Manfreda Grafa Njemački industrijalac zarobljen ljepotom „europskih Kariba“

sela i regija u Europi upoznao na koji sam kupio s prijateljem, ali nakon upola manje lijepo i začudno. Ne mogu poslovnim putovanjima, ali Dubrovnik je što nas je, zbog slomljenoga mjenjača proći kraj neke galerije ili muzeja, a da posebno lijep, čist, njegovan i ljubazan. brzina, u krugovima dobro izvrtio ispred ne zastanem i pogledam eksponate. Na More je savršeno, jer u blizini nema Šipana, te mnogih popravaka, odustao zidovima mojih kuća u Njemačkoj i u industrijskog područja. Ljeti nije previše sam i kupio manji. Shvatio sam da samo Orašcu svakodnevno me oduševljavaju vruće, a zimi je rijetko previše hladno. malom barkom mogu samostalno istražiti umjetnička djela. Uglavnom su to djela Elafiti su jedinstveni i zaslužuju se zvati obalu, prekrasne uvale i slikovite otoke. suvremenih njemačkih umjetnika, ali tu “Europskim Karibima”. Držim se stare hrvatske izreke: „Veliki su i radovi hrvatskih umjetnika: Ivana brod - veliki problemi, mali brod, mali Vulića, Stipe Nobila, Josipa Ivanovića i problemi”. Prijateljica Maja Puljizević Josipa Škerlja. Ljetne dubrovačke izložbe Četiri tjedna na Lopudu, dopušta mi da je držim na njezinom često posjećujem pa sam tako, jedne Manfredu su postala premalo, pristaništu u Malom Zatonu. večeri na otvaranju izložbe u Galeriji pa je 2009. krenuo u avanturu. Sebastian, upoznao Marina Ivanovića. Kupio je građevinsko zemljište Spojila nas je ljubav prema umjetnosti u Orašcu, nedaleko od Manfred Graf uskoro će i prema Dalmaciji, ali posebno prema Dubrovnika s pogledom na napuniti okruglih 60. godina. Dubrovniku, njegovoj baštini, kulturi i elafitske otoke i krenuo Kroz svoj je posao postigao umjetnosti. graditi svoju morsku kuću puno, proputovao je mnogo, iz snova. Trajalo je to oko vezan je za svoje kćeri i dvije godine, uz puno pomoći obitelj, pa se može reći kako Manfred govori svoj lokalnih prijatelja, jer vodi ispunjen život, no sve materinji njemački, savršen hrvatska birokracija ima svoj to začinio je njegov hobi ili engleski, ali uporno uči i spor i zapetljan put, koji malo bolje rečeno strast. hrvatski. Ne ide mu loše, koji stranac može razumjeti. ipak razgovor vodimo na - Na svoju veliku žalost, nisam slikar. engleskom. Dubrovnik, Lopud -Moj san o kući uz more konačno Moji učitelji rano su to primijetili. i Orašac postali su mu dom, se obistinio. Iz Orašca uživam Možda je baš to razlog zašto volim i gdje ga, nakon napornih u prekrasnom pogledu na otoke divim se ljudima, umjetnicima, koji su u poslovnih obveza, i zimi, Koločep, Lopud i Šipan. Nisam daleko stanju očarati i nadahnuti druge svojim i ljeti, i u jesen, i proljeće od dubrovačke vreve dok uživam u darom, potaknuti misao ili reakciju. Od čekaju kuća, barka i ono jedinstvenom spokoju oraških brda. mladosti sam entuzijastični štovatelj najvažnije prijatelji. Kuća mi nije bila dovoljna. Nabavio lijepe umjetnosti, posebno slikarstva. sam i barku. Prvo je to bio veći gliser, Bez umjetnosti, naše postojanje bilo bi

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 27 Manfred Graf’s Second Home The German industrialist captured by the beauty of the “European Caribbean” his daughters Nadja and knowledge I gained in the early years Charlotte. These are not and experience in the industry, I began only summer, sea vacations, but on Lopud they often by Katarina Fiorović consulting with other parquet factories throughout Europe. I was selling the celebrate both Christmas and Easter, as well as the t’s November and autumn has current machine technology, as well as Festivity of Dubrovnik’s brought rains and the southern a few of my own patents. I am proud of patron Saint Blaise. Frequent wind jugo (sirocco), which our factory and the success of the whole I visits, especially outside of sometimes clouds the mind but also family,” says Manfred proudly. the tourist season, when brings unique colors. From the terrace there are only about 200 of his dream home, the owner of a “It all started in 1919, with a small shop inhabitants on the island, parquet flooring factory, an innovator with only two employees, and with my have inevitably helped the and art collector from the southern grandfather’s and father’s efforts, and family form close friendships. German city of Rot am See, watches an finally, my own, 100 years later it is a early fall sunset. Looking out towards modern company with 40 employees.” He traveled all over Europe for his Lopud Island, bathed in a purple sea “Friendship with the family of Krist work and a considerable part of the and surrounded by a copper sky, he Obuljen, former president of the Lopud world, and his work brought him to reminisces about the moment he first Town Council, as well as with many Dubrovnik, where he found his second stepped off a ship onto that island 20 other island families, always made me home. years ago and immediately fell in love. feel welcome here. My daughters spent The years passed and Manfred Graf most of their holidays with me on the “Work brought me to Karlovac in returned to Lopud and Dubrovnik. He island. Both learned to swim at Šunj 1999. It was a one-year consultation at met people and came to know customs, Beach. However, I was annoyed by the a large parquet factory. I made friends fell in love with the heritage and nature, tractors (o.p. no cars are allowed on with the owners, so they welcomed and in the village of Orašac, he made his Lopud), which brought the mail every me and my family to Lopud as thanks own corner for enjoyment. morning, creating noise, bad odors and and recognition for the work done. disturbing the island›s peace. My friend Vido Bogdanović, former mayor of “I was born in the small city of Rot Dubo and I came up with a solution. Dubrovnik and a good friend of the am See, in southern Germany in 1960. In Germany, I bought electric vehicles factory owner, greeted us at the airport My grandfather and father had a saw from military supplies, some even from and took us to the island. I fell in love mill. They dealt in the production and the Chancellor›s bunker, and sent them at first sight, and when I visited the installation of parquet flooring. Since by truck to Lopud. Most restaurant Old City of Dubrovnik, that love only childhood, woodworking and flooring owners bought new electric vehicles and strengthened.” have been an everyday part of my life. Lopud became a little quieter. It was a Naturally, I continued my education lot of work, but it definitely paid off. and training in this direction, and at A few years later, after his Many ask me why I keep returning to the age of 20, due to circumstances, divorce, Manfred returned Dubrovnik. I have seen many beautiful after my father had to retire due to a to the island and since then cities, villages and regions in Europe heart attack, I took over the family he has spent four weeks each on business trips, but Dubrovnik is company. Thanks to the technical year on the island with

28 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Manfred Graf’s Second Home The German industrialist captured by the beauty of the “European Caribbean”

especially beautiful, clean, well-kept and enjoying the unique tranquility of the gift, to stimulate thought or reaction. friendly. The sea is perfect because there Orašac hills. But even the house was From a young age I have been an are no industrial areas nearby. It›s not not enough for me. I also got a boat. At enthusiastic admirer of beautiful art, too hot in the summer and rarely too first, it was a bigger speedboat, which I especially painting. Without art, our cold in the winter. The Elaphite Islands bought with a friend, but after a broken existence would be only half as beautiful are unique and deserve to be called the gearbox, which left us spinning circles and astonishing. I cannot go past a ‘European Caribbean’”. in front of Šipan and many repairs, I gallery or museum without pausing gave up and bought a smaller one. I and looking at the exhibits. On the Four weeks on Lopud became realized that only with a small boat walls of my houses in Germany and in too little for Manfred, so can I explore the coast, beautiful bays Orašac, I am fascinated by works of in 2009 he embarked on an and picturesque islands independently. art every day. These are mostly works adventure. He bought a I stick to the old Croatian saying: ‘Big by contemporary German artists, building plot in Orašac, not boat – big problems, small boat – small but there are also works by Croatian far from Dubrovnik and problems’.” artists. I often visit Dubrovnik summer overlooking the Elaphite exhibitions.” Islands and set about Manfred Graf is about to building his dream home. It turn 60. He has accomplished Manfred speaks his native took about two years, with a lot through his work, has German, as well as perfect a lot of help from local traveled extensively, and is English, but he is also friends, because Croatian connected to his daughters persistently learning bureaucracy has its slow and family, so he can say that Croatian. Dubrovnik, Lopud and tangled path that few he leads a fulfilling life, but and Orašac became his home, foreigners or even locals can all this is complemented by where, after demanding understand. his hobby or rather passion. business commitments, in winter, summer, autumn and spring, his house, his boat “My dream of having a house by the “To my great regret, I am not a and most importantly, his sea has finally come true. From Orašac painter. My teachers noticed this friends await him. I enjoy the beautiful view of the islands early on. Perhaps that is why I love of Koločep, Lopud and Šipan. I am not and admire artists, who are able to far from the bustle of Dubrovnik, while enchant and inspire others with their

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 29 Povijesni fenomen

1oo godina Dubrovačkog arhiva 30 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Napisao Nikša Selmani

roslave jubileja bitan su dio kao pisano svjedočanstvo urbaniteta arhiva, dubrovački su dokumenti bili kontinuiteta jedne zajednice. srednjovjekovnoga mediteranskog tretirani kao ratni plijen. Ulaskom PDubrovnik, kao Grad, grada. vojske njemačkog Reicha u Beograd po svom je karakteru bio i ostao Iako bi se o ovoj stoljetnoj instituciji završilo je ovo dvadesetogodišnje mjesto na kojemu su, Braudelovski mogla napisati obimna studija, iznijet ću nadmudrivanje pošto Nijemci 30. lipnja kazano, sačuvani brojni civilizacijski samo bitne momente unutar posljednih 1941. odnose dubrovačke dokumente elementi koji pripadaju „strukturama sto godina samostalnoga djelovanja ponovno u Beč. Tek nakon Drugoga dugog trajanja“. Povijesni fenomen arhivske ustanove koja se 1920. god. svjetskog rata gotovo sve su povelje Dubrovačkog arhiva važan je dio ovoga odvojila od dubrovačkoga Kotarskog konačno vraćene u Dubrovnik, nažalost višestoljetnoga dubrovačkog mozaika. poglavarstva. Uzme li se u obzir zla ne i 38 rukopisnih i 12 tiskanih Premda u 2020. slavimo stogodišnjicu Arhiva bivše Dubrovačke Republike orijentalnih knjiga koje se i danas nalaze Dubrovačkog arhiva kao samostalne početkom 30-tih godina 19. stoljeća, u Nacionalnoj knjižnici u Beču. ustanove, slobodno možemo reći da je kad su najvrijednije latinske, ćirilske i Iz Kneževa dvora čitav se dubrovački ovih posljednih sto godina samo vrh osmanske sultanske povelje i knjige iz arhiv 1952. preselio u adekvatnije ledenog brijega u gotovo tisućljetnoj priručne knjižnice Turske kancelarije prostorije Palače Sponza. Tada tradiciji dubrovačke skrbi o pisanoj poslane iz Dubrovnika u Tajni državni, započinje i ozbiljniji arhivistički rad riječi. Još od najstarije sačuvane isprave dvorski i kućni arhiv u Beču, najveći na obradi i izradi inventara arhivskog pape Benedikata VIII. iz 1022., upućene je izazov samostalnog Dubrovačkog gradiva, kao i preuzimanje gradiva dubrovačkom nadbiskupu Vitalu, pa sve arhiva bio vratiti najvrijednije povelje i javnih ustanova, poduzeća, udruga, do danas, Dubrovački je arhiv, uz one knjige u Dubrovnik. To se nakon Prvoga ali i osobnih i obiteljskih ostavina. u Vatikanu, Beču, Veneciji i Carigradu, svjetskog rata pokazalo prvorazrednim Kako se arhivska služba razvijala, s pravom prepoznat kao jedan od političkim pitanjem, jer nakon što je kapacitet srednjovjekovne palače postao najbogatijih i najcjelovitijih u ovome temeljem međunarodnih ugovora Vlada je nedostatan te se razvila misao o dijelu Europe. Kao neslužbenu godinu Republike Austrije i Kraljevine Srba, otvaranju Arhivskih sabirnih centara: njegova nastanka držimo 1278. god. Hrvata i Slovenaca, arhivsko gradivo ASC Metković - Opuzen - Ploče (2002.) kad Dubrovačka Komuna dovodi trebalo biti vraćeno u Dubrovnik, ono je i ASC Korčula - Lastovo (2011.), svjetovnjaka Tomasina de Saverea za preneseno u Beograd i prema Vladinoj čime se djelomično rasteretio prostor notara, čime započinje kontinuirano odluci privremeno smješteno u Arhiv palače. Konačno, 2019. Državni arhiv u vođenje administracije, a time i trajna Srpske Kraljevske Akademije. Tamo je Dubrovniku otvara novi arhivski prostor skrb o knjigama i spisima proizašlima zadržavano usprkos mnogim zahtjevima u istočnom krilu bivše austro-ugarske iz rada državnih tijela. Dubrovačka Dubrovačkog arhiva da im se gradivo vojarne, ponosno iščekujući tisućiti je Komuna, a potom i Republika, vrati, a prema zapažanju dr. Branimira jubilej svoje najstarije isprave - Bule sačuvala značajne cjeline ovoga gradiva Truhelke, ravnatelja Dubrovačkog pape Benedikta VIII..

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 31 A Historical Phenomenon

1oo Years of the Dubrovnik Archives

by Nikša Selmani

his year, we celebrate the Dubrovnik Archives, the Dubrovnik centennial of the Dubrovnik documents were treated as spoils of war. TArchive as an independent With the entry of the German Reich’s institution. However, we can freely armies into Belgrade, the twenty-year- say that these last hundred years old circumvention was resolved. On represent just the tip of the iceberg in 30 June 1941 the Germans again almost one thousand years of tradition transferred the Dubrovnik documents of Dubrovnik’s care for the written back to Vienna. It was not until after word. Since the earliest preserved the Second World War that almost all document of Pope Benedict VIII from the charters were finally returned to 1022, addressed to the Dubrovnik Dubrovnik, except for the 38 written Archbishop Vital, to this day, the manuscripts and 12 printed Oriental Dubrovnik Archive, in addition to of the former Dubrovnik Republic books that are still held in the National those in the Vatican, Vienna, Venice and were taken into account in the early Library in Vienna. Constantinople, is rightly recognized as 1930s, the time when the most valuable one of the richest and most complete Latin, Cyrillic and Ottoman Sultans’ In 1952 the entire Dubrovnik Archive in this part of Europe. The year 1278 charters and books from the Turkish moved from the Rector’s Palace to the is considered the unofficial year of Chancery’s auxiliary library were sent more adequate premises of the Sponza its creation, when the Dubrovnik from Dubrovnik to the Secret State, Palace. This is when more serious Commune brought in the secular man Court and Home Archives in Vienna, archiving work on processing and Tomasin de Savere for the position of the biggest challenge of the independent documenting of archive material began, Notary. This marks the beginning of Dubrovnik Archive was to secure the as well as the acquisition of archival the continuous administration and return of the most valuable charters and material from public institutions permanent care of books and documents books to Dubrovnik. This proved to and companies, associations, as well from the work of government bodies. be a serious political issue after World as personal and family archives. As The Dubrovnik Commune, and later War I because although, in accordance the archival service developed, the the Republic, preserved significant with international treaties between the capacity of the medieval palace became integral parts of this material as a Government of the Republic of Austria insufficient and led to opening Archive written testimony of the urbanity of the and the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Collection Centres in the Neretva River medieval Mediterranean town. Slovenians, the archival material should Valley in 2002 and on the islands of have been returned to Dubrovnik, it Korčula and Lastovo in 2011, which Although a voluminous study could was transferred to Belgrade where it partially freed up the palace space. be written about this century-old was temporarily placed in the archives Finally, in 2019 the State Archive in institution, I will only present important of the Serbian Royal Academy, pursuant Dubrovnik opened a new archival moments within the last hundred to a Government decree. It was retained space in the eastern wing of the former years of independent activity of the there despite the many demands by Austro-Hungarian barracks, proudly archive institution that in 1920 was the Dubrovnik Archives for restitution, awaiting the Thousandth Jubilee of its separated from Dubrovnik’s County and according to the observations of oldest document – the Papal Bull of Government. Once all of the archives Dr. Branimir Truhelke, Director of the Pope Benedict VIII.

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2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 33 VITALNI 95-godišnjak Vaterpolo klub

odina 2012. je. U osam zlatnih Olimpijaca. proživljavamo znajući da je posljednji vaterpolskoj momčadi - Je li moguće da Grad od 45 tisuća atom snage potrošen – ovim je riječima GHrvatske, koja je osvojila stanovnika iznjedri osam Olimpijskih Mato Franković, gradonačelnik zlatnu medalju na Olimpijskim igrama pobjednika – pitali su. No odgovor Dubrovnika u Uvodniku knjige „5 do u Londonu, od 13 igrača čak ih je 7 je još čudniji: „Oni nisu prvi. Mi već 100“ autora Željana Konsua koja je rođeno u Dubrovniku i svoje su karijere godinama stvaramo najbolje vaterpoliste izdana za 95. rođendan Juga, opisao počeli u Vaterpolskom klubu Jug na Svijetu.“ odnos Dubrovčana i Juga. I to je (Paulo Obradović, Nikša Dobud, Miho U čemu je tajna uspjeha dubrovačkoga ta tajna! Upravo se u tom odnosu Bošković, Andro Bušlje, Frano Vićan, vaterpola? Koji to sportski sastojak već stanovnika Dubrovnika prema voljenom Maro Joković i Sandro Sukno). Štoviše, 95 godina upotrebljava Vaterpolski klubu krije sve ono „neobjašnjivo“. zlatnomm olimpijskom medaljom u klub Jug kako bi bio u samom vrhu Možda bi se odgovor o tom odnosu Londonu se okitio i trener Elvis Fatović. europskoga pa i svjetskoga vaterpola? mogao pronaći u tradiciji, a možda i u Samo nekoliko dana kasnije više od - Dubrovnik i vaterpolo duboko su uključenosti Dubrovčana u rad kluba. 15000 ljudi dočekalo je olimpijske i trajno međusobno prožeti. VK Jug Često imate primjer da je barem jedan prvake. Stradun je ‹gorio›. Turisti su postao je neraskidivi dio identiteta član obitelji bio igrač Juga, barem u pitali: „Što se događa? Što se slavi?“ svakoga od nas. Jug nosimo u srcu, u mlađim uzrastima. Na onim najvećim Dubrovčanima nije bilo teško odgovoriti sportskim ogledima uz njega strepimo, utakmicama, kada se odlučuje o da dočekuju najbolje vaterpoliste Svijeta bodrimo ga srčanom predanošću, trofejima, uz one najžešće navijače, samo i da u Dubrovnik u tom trenutku dolazi uspjehe mu slavimo, a poraze stoički desetak metara dalje sjede njihove majke

34 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. – rasadnik najboljih igrača na Svijetu

Jugi očevi, ponekad bake i djedovi, koji godine osvojio je sve što se osvojiti se Dubrovčani jako dobro pripremiti za često sa sobom dovedu svoje praunuke. moglo. proslavu ‹jubilarca›. To znaju i svi njihov Tako se na tribinama Juga znaju susresti Vaterpolski klub Jug je u 36 navrata konkurenti, kako na domaćim, tako i na četiri generacije iste obitelji. I svi zdušno bio prvak države, 16 puta je osvojio europskim terenima, a svi žele pobijediti navijaju za svoga Juga pjevajući: „Jug Kup, dok je četiri puta bio najbolji u najbolje… je naš“. regionalnom natjecanju koji nosi ime VK Jug Dubrovnik – taj mladi starac od A za ljubav vjernosti najzaslužniji su, Jadranska liga. LEN kup je osvojio 95 godina uvijek iznova oduševi. Neki naravno Jugovi igrači. Naime, odmah jednom, dok je četiri puta bio prvak će ga usporediti s vinom i kazati da je nakon osnivanja Jugaši su krenuli s Europe, a dva puta je osvajao i LEN bolji što je stariji, a nama se nekako po osvajanjem trofeja. Od 1925. do 1938. Super kup što ukupno čini 63 Jugova glavi vrti priča o Benjaminu Buttonu u nizu su osvajali naslove prvaka bivše trofeja. I tu Jugaši ne misle stati, ni u i ideji da je svakim danom sve mlađi i države. Zlatnim slovima u povijest Juga sportskom, ni u organizacijskom smislu. mlađi. Dovoljno je doći svakog dana ostat će upisana 1980. godina u kojoj je Osim ulaganja u igrače, zahvaljujući na Jugovo plivalište i pogledati brojnu prvi put postao prvak Europe. Nakon Gradu Dubrovniku, Jug će uskoro djecu koja plivaju kilometre kako silnih uspjeha uslijedila je ‹suša› od 20 otvoriti i prvi vaterpolski muzej na bi jednog dana postali igrači. Jedno godina, da bi se Jugaši vratili novim Svijetu. je sigurno, u Dubrovniku i Jugu se europskim i domaćim trofejima. Od Za četiri godine, točnije 2013., Jug će vaterpolo ne igra. Ovdje se vaterpolo 2000. godine do danas Jug je čak tri slaviti 100 godina od osnivanja. Tko živi! puta bio prvak Europe, a 2006. i 2016. god ozbiljnije prati vaterpolo zna da će

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 35 95 years old and going strong Water Polo Club “Is it possible that a city of only 45,000 its successes and we experience its he year is 2012, inhabitants generated eight Olympic defeats stoically, knowing that the last and the Croatian water poloJug winners?” – they asked. But the answer atom of energy was used.” This is how Tteam has won the gold medal is even more surprising: “They are not Dubrovnik Mayor Mato Franković at the London Olympics. Out of 13 the first. We have been creating the described the relationship between team members, seven were born in best water polo players in the world for Dubrovnik and the Club in the Dubrovnik and began their careers with years.” foreword of the book Five to 100, by the Jug Water Polo Club. Moreover, Željan Konsuo, released on Jug’s 95th Coach Elvis Fatović also won the Gold What is the secret to the success of Anniversary. And that’s the secret: this Medal in London. Dubrovnik water polo? What ingredient attitude of the people of Dubrovnik has the Jug Water Polo Club (WPC) towards their beloved club. Only a few days later, more than 15,000 been using for 95 years to stay at the people greeted the Olympic champions very top of European and World water Perhaps the key to this relationship on their return home. The main street polo? could be found in tradition, and perhaps of Stradun was on ‘fire’. Tourists asked, in the involvement of Dubrovnik in the “What’s going on? What are you “Dubrovnik and water polo are deeply work of the club. There are often cases celebrating?” It was not difficult for the and permanently intertwined. The Jug where at least one member of the family people of Dubrovnik to tell them that WPC has become an inseparable part was a Jug player, at least at a younger they were welcoming the best water of the identity of each of us. We carry age. At those biggest games, decisive polo players in the world and that eight Jug in our hearts, during competitions for the trophies, together with the most golden Olympians were coming to we worry together with it, we cheer it passionate fans, mothers and fathers Dubrovnik. with heartfelt devotion, we celebrate sit only ten meters away, sometimes

36 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Water – Poloa training ground forClub the world’s best players

grandparents, who often bring along three times, while in 2006 and 2016, founding. Whoever is serious about Jug their great-grandchildren. Hence four the Club won all titles that could be water polo knows that Dubrovnik will generations of the same family have won. be very well prepared to celebrate the been known to gather in the Jug stands. Jubilee. All their competitors know And they all cheer wholeheartedly for The Jug Water Polo Club was the this, both in domestic and in European their team by singing the chant “Jug is country’s champion 36 times, winning swimming pools, and they all want to ours”. the Cup 16 times, while four times it defeat the best. was best in the regional competition And of course, the most deserving of called the Adriatic League. It won the Jug Dubrovnik club, a youthful old this faithful love are the Jug players. LEN Cup once, while it the Club was man of 95 years, always delights anew. Namely, immediately upon the Club’s European Champion four times and it Some will compare it to wine and say founding, Jug started winning trophies. won the LEN Super Cup twice, which it’s better with age, but we’re captivated From 1925 to 1938 they consecutively amounts to 63 trophies for Jug in total. by the idea that perhaps it is getting won the titles of national champion. And the Jug players do not intend to younger and younger every day. It is In 1980 Jug became the champion of stop at this. In addition to investing enough to come to Jug’s swimming pool Europe for the first time. After these in the players, thanks to the City of every day and to look at the number of enormous successes, a 20-year ‘drought’ Dubrovnik, Jug will soon open the children who swim for hours in order to followed before the Jug players would world’s first water polo museum. become players one day. One thing is reclaim new European and domestic certain, in Dubrovnik and in Jug, water trophies. From 2000 to this day Jug was In four years, more precisely in 2023, polo is not played. Rather, water polo is proclaimed the European Champion Jug will celebrate 100 years since its lived!

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 37 38 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. MUZEJ CRVENE POVIJESTI

Napisao Igor Mlinarić

– najmlađi dubrovački muzej u kojemu se nudi

šetnja kroz život u bivšoj Jugi

informacija da su 1972. godine 23 % posto svih rashoda u zdravstvu činila bolovanja i porodiljni govori puno. Postav Muzeja ne nameće nikakav Mijatović, majstor vizualnih efekata stav, već želi postati polazna točka za Hrvoje Margaretić i prof. filozofije Krešo sve posjetitelje u njihovom vlastitom Glavinić imali odličnu ideju koju su istraživanju o navedenoj temi, a dvije godine uspješno razvijali, a potom i podijeljen je na tri dijela: Socijalizam ostvarili, unatoč brojnim skepticima koji u ideji, praksi i sjećanju – objašnjava su strahovali da će postav Muzeja biti Krešo Glavinić. ideološki obojen. Danas Muzej crvene Na samom ulazu u Muzej posjetitelje povijesti uz brojne turiste, privlači i dočekuje crveni Yugo, vozilo koje se domaće ljude, te posjetitelje iz cijele izvozilo u cijeli Svijet, i kiosk kakav se regije. prije mogao vidjeti na dubrovačkim Muzej je nastao iz želje povjesničara za ulicama. Paneli s tekstom posjetitelje otkrivanjem i prikazivanjem povijesti, vode kroz povijest Hrvatske i Jugoslavije koja se generacijama, rođenim pred od osnivanja Komunističke partije raspad bivše države Jugoslavije, često Jugoslavije 1919., pa sve do raspada prenosila uz određene konotacije, Jugoslavije 1991., ali veoma zanimljiv želje za stvaranjem novog kulturnog segment svakako predstavljaju brojni ajmlađi dubrovački muzej, sadržaja izvan povijesne gradske jezgre, izlošci koji dočaravaju svakodnevni Muzej Crvene povijesti, kao i želje dizajnera i arhitekata o život u socijalističkom stanu, koji Nsmješten u nekadašnjoj prenamjeni industrijskih postrojenja u mnoge podsjeća na djetinjstvo. U tvorničkoj hali u Gružu i otvoren u umjetničko kulturni centar. mračnoj sobi Muzeja obrađena je tamna travnju 2019., nakon dva mjeseca -- Svi smo rođeni pred kraj Jugoslavije, strana komunističkog režima, kao postojanja zauzeo je čvrsto prvo odrasli smo u Hrvatskoj i nismo skoro što su politički progoni, prijeki sud, mjesto na TripAdvisoru, i to ne samo u ništa znali o tom razdoblju socijalizma, nasilna nacionalizacija, UDBA, kao Dubrovniku, već u cijeloj Hrvatskoj. To te smo smatrali da je važno više naučiti i zloglasni zatvor Goli otok i priča o samo svjedoči kako su mladi kreativci iz o sistemu u kojemu su odrasli naši otoku Daksi. Religija u Jugoslaviji nije Dubrovnika, među kojima su dizajnerica roditelji. Jedino tako možemo bolje bila zabranjena, ali nije bila poželjna. Kristina Mirošević, povjesničar Ivan upoznati povijest i shvatiti današnje Mnogi su svoju vjeru i simbole, kao što Lujo, novinar Nino Glavinić, arhitekt društvo. Postoji puno zanimljivih su križevi i Biblija, čuvali u privatnosti Tomi Šoletić, dizajner svjetla Marko činjenica o životu u tom vremenu, sama svoje spavaće sobe.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 39 tragičnu životnu priču, koja je završila Državama. Proglašen je najboljim samoubojstvom, također možete istražiti europskim košarkašem u NBA ligi, kroz stalni postav Muzeja. Poseban a u Muzeju je izložena i košarkaška dio u Muzeju zaslužila je diskografija lopta s njegovim potpisom kao i priča o toga vremena. Jugoslavija je bila Košarkaškom klubu Jugoplastika koja je jedina komunistička država koja je tri puta osvajala titulu prvaka Europe. sudjelovala na Eurosongu, na kojemu Muzej se stalno razvija, mladi kreativci je ostvarila i pobjedu 1989. s pjesmom slijede svoju ideju vodilju o muzeju «Rock me baby» u izvedbi grupe kao istraživačkom projektu koji Riva. Jugoslavenski izvođači, kao što dobro surađuje sa sličnim muzejima su Ivo Robić i Tereza Kesovija, bili su u okruženju, a osobito s Muzejom popularni i cijenjeni u cijeloj Europi, Domovinskoga rata smještenim u što je danas za mnoge domaće pjevače tvrđavi Imperial na Srđu, brdu s kojega nemoguća misija. Možete poslušati je 1991. obranjen Dubrovnik. Najmlađi hitove nekih pjevača koji su obilježili to dubrovački Muzej nalazi se na adresi «Šetnju kroz vrijeme» - kroz skoro 50 vrijeme: Kiću Slabinca, Gabi Novak, Svetog Križa 3, u sklopu Tvornice godina hrvatskoga socijalizma dočarava Doris Dragović i Mišu Kovača koji je ugljenografitnih proizvoda izgrađene preko tisuću predmeta. U Muzeju se i danas omiljen, najprodavaniji i jedini 1953., a koja je i sama jedan od ključnih može sjesti na stari motocikl Tomos ili hrvatski pjevač čija se glazba puštala i na spomenika socijalističkoga razdoblja za volan kultnog Yuga, prelistati stare Marsu. Surogat, kao jedini jugoslavenski Grada Dubrovnika. Cijeli postav je telefonske Imenike, vidjeti autentično film kojega danas svojataju skoro sve preveden i na engleski jezik, a knjižice, posuđe iz tog razdoblja, namještaj, države bivše Jugoslavije, zaslužio je svoje koje u skraćenoj verziji nude objašnjenja kozmetiku, školske udžbenike, mjesto u Muzeju, kao i profesor Baltazar o postavu, prevedene su i na njemački, Enciklopedije, razne novine od kojih su koji je proizvod Zagreb filma i danas francuski, talijanski, španjolski i posebno zanimljivi naslovi 1980. kada omiljen među djecom, ali i starijima portugalski jezik. je umro Tito i naslovnice «Umro je koji uživaju u animiranim filmovima. drug Tito», «Čovjek stoljeća», «Svijet Jugoslavija je bila i sportska velesila, se oprašta od Tita». Na skrovitim a zasigurno najuspješniji i najpoznatiji mjestima u Muzeju mogu se vidjeti jugoslavenski, kasnije i hrvatski sportaš, i erotski časopisi iz tog vremena. U je Dražen Petrović, koji je karijeru Jugoslavenskom patrijarhalnom društvu gradio u Sjedinjenim Američkim od žena se očekivalo da skrbe o obitelji i budu kućanice, iako su mnoge od njih imale priliku raditi i graditi karijeru, ali je postotak takvih bio jako malen. Imale su pravo glasa među prvima u Europi, pratile su modu čemu svjedoče časopisi koje su čitale, a «Dinastija», američka sapunica, nezaobilazan je detalj odrastanja mnogih iz tog vremena. Jugoslavija je sudjelovala i u izboru za Miss Universe, a najuspješnija predstavnica na tom natjecanju bila je baš Dubrovkinja Nikica Marinović koja je 1966. na tom natjecanju osvojila drugo mjesto i postala prva pratilja Indijke Reite Farije. Njezinu

40 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. ubrovnik’s newest museum, the Red History Museum, Red History Museum Dhoused in a former factory building in Gruž, opened in April 2019, by Igor Mlinarić and only two months after opening took a solid first place on TripAdvisor, not only in Dubrovnik, but in all of – Dubrovnik’s newest museum offers a walk Croatia. Behind this successful project is a team of young creative minds from Dubrovnik, including designer Kristina through everyday life in the former Yugoslavia Mirošević, historian Ivan Lujo, journalist Nino Glavinić, architect Tomi Šoletić, light designer Marko Mijatović, master

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 41 “We were all born towards the end of Yugoslavia, we grew up in Croatia and knew almost nothing about this period of socialism, so we thought that it was important to learn more about the system in which our parents grew up,” explained Krešo Glavinic. “Only in this way can we get to know history better and understand today’s society. There are many interesting facts about life at the time, for instance, just the information itself that in 1972, 23% of all health expenditures pertained to sick and maternity leaves says a lot. The Museum’s exhibit does not impose any position; it rather strives to serve as a starting point for all visitors in their own respective research. The museum is organized into three parts: Socialism in Idea, Practice and Memory.”

At the very entrance to the Museum, visitors are greeted by a classic red Yugo, an automobile that was exported to the entire world, and a kiosk that could previously be seen on the streets of Dubrovnik. Panels with text guide visitors through the history of Croatia and Yugoslavia from the founding of the Communist Party of Yugoslavia in 1919 until the breakup of Yugoslavia in 1991, to the many interesting exhibits that evoke everyday life in a socialist apartment, reminding many local visitors of their childhoods. The dark room of the Museum deals with the dark side of the communist regime, of visual effects Hrvoje Margaretić The establishment of the museum was such as political persecution, biased and philosophy professor Krešo driven by different motivations: the courts, compulsory nationalization, the Glavinic, who worked for two years historians’ desire to discover and display Yugoslav secret service UDBA, as well to realize their goal, despite the many history, particularly to generations born as the infamous Goli Otok prison and skeptics who feared that the museum›s before the breakup of the former State the story of the notorious massacre on exhibition would be ideologically of Yugoslavia, the wish to create new Daksa Island. Religion in Yugoslavia colored. Today, besides many tourists, cultural content outside the historic city was not forbidden, but it was not the Red History Museum attracts local center, and the desire of designers and desirable. Many kept their faith and people as well as visitors from all over architects to convert industrial facilities symbols, such as crosses and the Bible, the region. into centers for arts and culture. in the privacy of their bedrooms.

42 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. “A Walk Through Time” across up to India’s Reita Faria. You can also almost 50 years of Croatian socialism explore Nikica’s tragic life story, which is shown through a collection of over ended in suicide, through the museum’s 1,000 items. At the museum you can permanent exhibition. sit on an old Tomos motorcycle or at the wheel of the cult Yugo, browse A special part in the museum is through old telephone directories, allocated to the discography of the time. see authentic dishes from that period, Yugoslavia was the only Communist furniture, cosmetics, school textbooks, country to take part in the Eurovision encyclopedias, various newspapers Song Contest, where it also won in of which the titles in 1980 were 1989 with the song “Rock me baby” Dražen Petrović, who made his career particularly interesting when Tito died performed by the Riva group. Yugoslav in the United States. He was named the and front pages read “Comrade Tito performers such as Ivo Robić and Tereza best European basketball player in the Died”, “Man of the Century” and “The Kesovija were popular and respected NBA. The museum has a basketball World Says Goodbye to Tito”. Even throughout Europe, an achievement with his signature and tells the story of erotic magazines of the time can be that remains a ‘mission impossible’ the his Jugoplastika Basketball Club seen in out-of-the-way places in the for many local singers today. You which won the European Championship Museum. In the patriarchal Yugoslav can listen to the hits of some of the title three times. society, women were expected to care for singers who marked that time: Kićo the home and family, although many of Slabinac, Gabi Novak, Doris Dragović The museum is evolving constantly, them had the opportunity to work and and Mišo Kovač, who is still a favorite with the young creative minds leading build a career, but the percentage was even today, the best-selling singer and the concept following their idea of ​​ very small. They were among the first only Croatian singer whose music was the museum as a research project that in Europe to have the right to vote and also heard on Mars. “The Substitute”, collaborates well with similar museums they followed fashion in the magazines the only Yugoslav film claimed today in the area, in particular with the they read, while for many, watching by almost all countries of the former Museum of the Homeland War located the American soap opera Dynasty was Yugoslavia, earned its place in the in Fort Imperial on Srđ, the mountain an indispensable experience of growing museum, as did “Professor Balthazar”, from which Dubrovnik was defended in up during that time. Yugoslavia also a product of Zagreb Film and a favorite 1991. participated in the selection for Miss among children today as well as adults Universe, and its most successful who enjoy animated films. Yugoslavia The Red History Museum is located representative was Dubrovnik’s own was also a sports superpower, and at Svetog Križa 3, within the Carbon Nikica Marinović who won second place certainly the most successful and famous Graphite Factory, built in 1953, in 1966 and became the first runner Yugoslavian, later Croatian, athlete was and which in itself is one of the key monuments of the socialist period in the City of Dubrovnik. The entire exhibition has been translated into English and the booklets, which in a shorter version provide explanations of the exhibition, are available in German, French, Italian, Spanish and Portuguese.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 43 Mato Celestin – franjevac, začetnik hrvatskoga modernog slikarstva Medović 44 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Napisao Marin Ivanović

rijelaz iz 19. u 20. stoljeće na svim je društvenim poljima pa Pi u umjetnosti donio značajne promjene, a veliki modernistički roman Roberta Musila „Čovjek bez osobina“ izvrsno opisuje te godine naizgled neograničenih mogućnosti i nade u budućnost. Hrvatska je, kao i mnoge druge europske države, svoj likovni modernizam dobila iz Pariza kao glavnog umjetničkog središta tadašnjeg Svijeta, ali i iz njemačkih zemalja gdje je suvremeni duh bio snažan osobito u glazbi i književnosti. Dva najvažnija hrvatska slikara toga razdoblja, Vlaho Bukovac koji se školovao u Parizu i Mato Celestin Medović koji je akademiju završio u Münchenu, svojim povratkom u Hrvatsku donose i pregršt novih ideja koje su smatrane revolucionarnima. Dok je Bukovac (1855. – 1922.) u većoj mjeri igrao društvenu ulogu osnivajući župnik u svojoj rodnoj Kuni. Tamo društvo progresivnih slikara i opirući se nastaju neka od njegovih najljepših djela, tadašnjem državnom utjecaju na estetska prizori rascvjetale lavande i žuke, vrijesa i načela, Medovića (1857. – 1920.) smatramo samoniklog cvijeća. Tu su i mnoge slike s istinskim ocem hrvatskoga modernog prikazima mora, barki u selu Crkvice gdje slikarstva jer je u svome radu inzistirao na je izgradio svoju ladanjsku kuću, mjesnog pejzažu, na slikanju prirode i to ponajviše groblja i franjevačke crkve Delorite. Sve prirode dubrovačke okolice i poluotoka je to još moguće vidjeti na Pelješcu, kao Pelješca. i u stalnom postavu Umjetničke galerije Svoju je formaciju započeo nakon rođenja Dubrovnik. u Kuni na poluotoku Pelješcu, gdje je Opisivali su ga kao dinamičnog i vrlo pristupio franjevačkom redu Male braće i radišnog čovjeka koji je imao razumijevanja dobio osnovno obrazovanje. Kao franjevac je za druge, ali znao je biti i eksplozivan završio likovno školovanje u Rimu i Firenzi, kada se suočavao s nepravdom. Kažu ali nezadovoljan što mu kao svećeniku da je bio i vrlo velikodušan te je novce, nije bilo omogućeno slikanje po živim koje je sticao prodajom slika, koristio za modelima jer se to smatralo nemoralnim, pomoć onima kojima je trebalo. O njemu odlazi u München gdje je tijekom studija je najviše osobnih podataka donio njegov na Akademiji njegov rad bio osobito mlađi kolega svećenik i hrvatski književnik zapažen i nekoliko puta nagrađivan, a Nedjeljko Subotić koji je napisao i prvu, osobitog je uspjeha imala monumentalna nikada objavljenu monografiju o Medoviću. slika Bakanal iz 1893. godine koja se danas Neposredno pred smrt, imenovan je nalazi u Modernoj galeriji u Zagrebu. Nakon počasnim članom Hrvatske akademije – franjevac, začetnik hrvatskoga modernog slikarstva povratka u Hrvatsku, neko je vrijeme radio znanosti i umjetnosti zbog zasluga u u Dubrovniku slikajući portrete i pejzaže, formiranju hrvatskoga slikarstva i utjecaja nakon čega počinje razdoblje boravka u na generacije drugih umjetnika. Zagrebu gdje radi najvažnije alegorijske i Tijekom 2020. godine, kada se obilježava povijesne prizore po državnim narudžbama, stota obljetnica njegove smrti, imamo ali i mnoga djela za crkve. Nakon sukoba priliku upoznati se s njegovim djelom s vrlo moćnim biskupom Strossmayerom, i zaviriti u magični svijet ljepote Medović je napustio franjevački red i kao dubrovačkoga i pelješkoga kraja onako kako svećenik Dubrovačke biskupije postao ga je vidio Medović.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 45 Mato Celestin – Franciscan, founder of Croatian modern painting Medović by Marin Ivanović

he transition from the 19th into the 20th century brought about Tsignificant changes in all social fields including the arts, and the great modernist novel by Robert Musil The Man Without Qualities excellently describes those years of seemingly limitless possibilities and hope for the future. Like many other European countries, Croatia received the impulse for artistic modernism from Paris as the main art center of the world at the time, as well as from German countries where the contemporary spirit was strong, especially in music and literature. Two of the most important Croatian painters of the period, confrontation with the very powerful Bishop Vlaho Bukovac, who had been educated in Strossmayer, Medović left the Franciscan Paris, and Mato Celestin Medović, who had order and as a priest of the Dubrovnik graduated from the academy in Munich, diocese he became a pastor in his native brought Croatia a handful of new ideas that Kuna. It is there that some of his most were considered revolutionary. beautiful works were created, scenes of the blossoming lavender and broom, heather While Bukovac (1855 – 1922) played, to a and wildflowers. There are also many greater extent, a social role by founding a paintings with sea views, boats in the village society of progressive painters and resisting of Crkvice where he built his country house, state influence on aesthetic principles, we local cemeteries and the Franciscan church of consider Medović (1857 – 1920) the true Delorita. All of these can be seen on Peljesač, father of Croatian modern painting because as well as in the permanent display of the in his work he insisted on landscapes and Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik. painting nature, especially the nature of the Dubrovnik area and the Pelješac peninsula. His works reveal him as a dynamic and very industrious man who had understanding for His formative journey began after his others, but who also exhibited an explosive birth in the town of Kuna on the Peljesač temper when confronted with injustice. They peninsula, where he joined the Franciscan say he was also very generous, that he used Order of the Brothers Minor and received the money from the sale of his paintings to a basic education. As a Franciscan, he help those in need. His younger colleague, completed an artistic education in Rome a priest and Croatian writer, Nedjeljko and Florence, but, unhappy that as a Subotić, who wrote the first, never published priest he was not allowed to paint living monograph on Medović, revealed the most models because it was considered immoral, personal information about him. Shortly he went to Munich. During his studies before his death, he was appointed honorary at the Academy in Munich his work was member of the Croatian Academy of Sciences considerably noted and awarded several and Arts due to merit in the formation times, while his monumental 1893 painting of Croatian painting and influence on – Franciscan, founder of Croatian modern painting Bakanal, today located in the Modern generations of other artists. Gallery in Zagreb achieved the most remarkable success,. Upon return to Croatia, During the year 2020, during which he worked for some time in Dubrovnik, the 100th anniversary of his death is painting portraits and landscapes, after commemorated, we have an opportunity which he moved to Zagreb, where he to become acquainted with his work and to painted the most important allegorical and peek into the magical world of the beauty of historical scenes commissioned by the State, the Dubrovnik and Pelješac countryside as but also many works for churches. After a seen by Medović.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 47 JUŽINA

eć su stari Dubrovčani bili svjesni da SIROCCO: Vjužina nije vrijeme po kojemu treba donositi ikakve odluke, a osobito one The troublesome southern wind od značaja i važnosti za cijelu zajednicu, stoga su dubrovački senatori u vrijeme he ancient inhabitants of Du- Republike to i izbjegavali. Jugo dopuše Tbrovnik were very well aware that particular psychophysical state for which posebno psihofizičko stanje kojemu when the warm, humid sirocco winds rest is most appropriate, for everyone najviše odgovara mirovanje. Svakome blow from the south, few people can be but photographers. For the raging sea osim fotografima. Jer, pobješnjelo more in a good mood. In fact, this weather and the curtains of salty droplets spilling i zastori slanih kapljica koje se prosipaju system, which usually brings several over the city, splashing and leaping over iznad Grada, zapljuskujući i preskačući days of rain, dramatic storm clouds and the city walls, are a thrill for restless gradske Zidine, uzbuđenje su za nemirne powerful waves, is still blamed for lack artistic souls. The magic of sirocco is umjetničke duše. Kakvu čaroliju jugo of concentration and is a good excuse best illustrated by this photo by Hrvoje donese najbolje svjedoči ova fotografija to put off serious work. In the time of Margaretić. A strong sirocco, as re- Hrvoja Margaretića. Jugo, kakvo je the Dubrovnik Republic, there was even corded in November 2019, has not been zabilježeno u studenome 2019., dugo a statute preventing the senators from seen for a long time, and so the 10.87 se ne pamti, pa je tako i val koji je making any decisions, especially those high meter wave that was measured in zapljusnuo dubrovački akvatorij pokraj of significance and importance for the Dubrovnik waters near the islet of Saint otočića Sveti Andrija s 10,87 metara, whole community, when these winds Andrew is one of the biggest waves ever jedan od najviše izmjerenih na Jadranu. were prevalent. Sirocco brings forth a measured in the Adriatic.

48 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. 2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 49 50 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. 1oo GODINA OD ROÐENJA SLIKARA Antuna Masle - Od oraških do svjetskih priča

Napisala / by Jelena Tamindžija

likovito naselje udaljeno 15 i popratne Monografije da se Maslina prepoznaje njegov talent i nakon dvojbe kilometara od Dubrovnika rodno djela čitaju i izvan lokalnog konteksta kamo uputiti izrazito inteligentnog Sje mjesto Antuna Masle, jednog te da se uspostave paralele s tadašnjim dječaka, odlučuje se za savjetovanje od najzanimljivijih dubrovačkih slikara, europskim duhovnim i stilskim s tadašnjim poznatim dubrovačkim poznatog i kao dio grupe Dulčić-Masle- kretanjima. slikarom, Markom Muratom, koji ga Pulitika. Osnovna škola u Orašcu, Antun Masle rodio se 1919. godine dalje upućuje na jednog od najvećih koja nosi ime po ovome intrigantnom u Orašcu, kao četvrti sin i šesto, od revolucionara tadašnje slikarske scene interpretatoru priča dubrovačke okolice, ukupno osmoro djece djece Ðiva Masle, Dubrovnika, Kostu Strajnića. Ovi naglašava njegovu važnost i bogato crevjara (postolara) i težaka, te supruge su susreti urodili plodom pa Masle slikarsko nasljeđe koje je ostavio. Ovo Mare r. Litica. Njegovo djetinjstvo bilo upisuje Akademiju likovne umjetnosti nasljeđe tema je velike retrospektivne je obilježeno neimaštinom i seoskim u Zagrebu gdje upoznaje brojne izložbe koju je pripremila Umjetnička kontekstom, no upravo njegov otac dubrovačke slikare koji ostavljaju galerija Dubrovnik u prosincu 2019. dojam na njega, kao i velik broj izložbi, popraćeno opširnom Monografijom kazališnih predstava i koncerata koje poznatoga povjesničara umjetnosti je Masle pohađao. Po povratku u i kritičara, Igora Zidića. Sveukupno Dubrovnik Masle, od 1945. godine pa 250 djela prostire se na dva kata koja sve do svoje smrti, radi kao nastavnik u proučavaju evoluciju slikara i njegovo raznim dubrovačkim školama . eksperimentiranje u formalnom i Prekretnica u njegovom životu vjenčanje sadržajnom smislu. Cilj je ove izložbe je s Dubrovkinjom Dorom Aleksić

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 51 1949. godine, koja nažalost umire, vjeran čovjek i kupovao je puno vjerskih sa sinom, pri porodu. Nakon ovog tiskovina iz kojih autor također crpi tragičnog događaja, Masle napušta inspiraciju za stvaranje svojih likova. njihovu kuću u Sv. Jakovu te se Posebice je na slikara utjecalo evanđelje posvećuje u potpunosti školi i slikarstvu sv. Ivana i poglavlje o Apokalipsi, koje što će rezultirati njegovom prvom se ne podudara s drugim tekstovima samostalnom izložbom u Dubrovniku, u evanđelista. Iz ovog produhovljenog Salonu LIKUM-a koja će polučiti velik i Marina Tartaglie na Zagrebačkoj evanđelja Masle povlači slike broj osvrta od tadašnjih značajnih imena akademiji, hrvatskih i europskih nadrealizma kao što je simbol oka koji likovne kritike poput Radoslava Putara i profesora bogate erudicije i znanjem se može naći i kod europskih nadrealista Grge Gamulina. europskih jezika što je također iznimno Renea Magrittea ili u kolažima Maxa Od 1954. godine u Maslinim se utjecalo na Maslu. Ernsta. Njegov opus na ovakav način radovima počinje pojavljivati lik njegove No, za razliku od većine modernih istražen pred gledatelja predstavlja druge žene, Mile (Mileve) Grbešić s hrvatskih slikara, koji su skloniji jednu igru i amalgam djetinjstva, kojom će imati dvije kćeri, Brigitu stilskom oponašanju tadašnjih priča i pučkih praznovjerja koja su išla i Dolores. Upravo njima možemo europskih trendova od impresionizma, paralelno s kršćanskim vjerovanjima, ali zahvaliti na velikom i očuvanom postimpresionizma do kubizma, Masle i proizašla iz njih kao što je opis Maslina Maslinom opusu o kojemu su s velikim pak pronalazi svoj put. On se priključuje oca kojeg je dječak promatrao kako tjera poštovanjem pažljivo brinule. ovome svijetu, ali ga ne imitira već se sotonu iz kuće. U sklopu Umjetničke galerije vodi preuzimanjem nekih duhovnih Ovdje se može povući paralela i sa Dubrovnik, osim središnje zgrade koja tekovina tadašnjeg europskog društva. slavnim Marcom Chagallom koji u je građena kao vila Banac na Pločama, Kroz sveukupno 300 slika koje su Parizu također slika inspiriran pričama iz nalaze se i galerija Dulčić-Masle- objavljene u Monografiji, izdvojeno je rodnog bjeloruskog Vitebska i sačuvanih Pulitika te in situ atelijer Pulitika koji i analizirano nekoliko opsesija koje se starih priča židovske zajednice hasida je slikar oporučno ostavio i koja se u ponavljaju kroz cikluse autora. Jedna od čije figure i opise inkorporira u svoj rad. sastavu muzeja nalazi od 2008. godine. tih opsjednutosti istraživanje je sebe kroz Detaljni uvid u Maslino razmišljanje Ova trojica slikara bila su vezani i formu autoportreta i pseudoportreta pružaju nam brojni zapisi i tekstovi prijateljskim sponama, no čitanje Masle koje imenuje autoportretima, iako kojima je pratio cikluse, ali i pisma unutar isključivo ovog konteksta nije nemaju nikakve fizičke sličnosti sa koja je ostavio svojoj obitelji. Nerijetko doprinijelo kvalitetnom vrijednovanju samim slikarom. Od sveukupno 18 se brojni tekstovi i radovi izgube u njegova stila koji se uvelike razlikovao autoportreta može se pratiti evolucija vrtlozima povijesti svakidašnjice, no od navedenih slikara. Upravo je ovo cilj ovog žanra od prepoznatljivih crta zahvaljujući obiteljskim i prijateljskim Monografije Igora Zidića koja nastoji slikara do neprepoznatljivog portreta nastojanjima da se ostavi uspomena na dati novu perspektivu Maslina opusa koji stavlja naglasak na predstavljanje našeg dubrovačkog slikara, Umjetnička iz kojeg su dosad pretežito obrađene duhovnog stanja autora. Ovo traženje galerija Dubrovnik ima mogućnost njegove zavičajne slike. Iako one odgovora na pitanje “tko sam ja” kroz ponovno prikazati Maslin opus na imaju izrazitu vrijednost, djela koja su formu autoportreta tipično je moderno jednom mjestu, nakon skoro 51 godine, obilježena jednim općecivilizacijskim egzistencijalno pitanje na tragu kada mu je zadnji put pripremljena i općekulturnim temama, nepravedno Sartreove književnosti. Postavljanje izložba kao posmrtna davne 1968. su pala u drugi plan pojednostavljujući pitanja naše uloge u svijetu, našeg godine. No, ovaj put izložba u njihovo čitanje kao djela na granici konteksta i uopće smisla postojanja povodu 100. obljetnice Maslina naive. Zidić ovom Monografijom teme su koje su zaokupljale umjetnički rođenja popraćena je fascinantnom nastoji vratiti dug prošlosti i ponovno svijet tražeći na ovaj način odgovore na Monografijom koja nam pruža šaroliku ih postaviti na pijedestal pružajući nam strahote 2. svjetskog rata. sliku kombinacije pučkih priča, vjerske argumente za bolje razumijevanje djela. Među najbrojnije opsesije u Maslinom literature, egzistencijalnih pitanja Osim oraške, dubrovačke i dalmatinske stvaralaštvu svakako treba izdvojiti i postratne Europe i svjetskih umjetničkih crte u njegovim djelima, Zidić pronalazi rogate životinje koje imaju simboličko pravaca koji su obilježili 20. stoljeće. i svjetske odrednice. Treba imati na umu značenje u narodnim pričama o đavlima da je Masle student Vladimira Becića i sotoni. Maslin je otac bio iznimno

52 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. 1ooth Anniversary of the Birth of the Painter Antun Masle

by Jelena Tamindžija

picturesque village 15 extensive monograph by the famous total of 250 works, spread over two kilometers away from art historian and critic Igor Zidić. A floors, examines the evolution of the ADubrovnik is the birthplace painter and his experimentation in a of Antun Masle, one of the most formal and meaningful sense. The aim interesting Dubrovnik painters, known of this exhibition and accompanying as a part of the Dulčić-Masle-Pulitika monograph is to have Masle’s works Group. The Elementary School in understood outside and beyond the local Orašac, which carries the name of this context, and thus to establish parallels intriguing interpreter of the story of with the European spiritual and stylistic Dubrovnik’s natural surroundings, trends of the time. emphasizes his importance and rich artistic heritage that he has left behind. Antun Masle was born in 1919 in This legacy is the subject of a large Orašac, as the fourth son and the sixth retrospective exhibition, prepared by child out of eight children of Ðivo the Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik Masle, a shoemaker and farmer, and in December 2019, accompanied by an his wife Mare, nee Litica. His childhood

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 53 was marked by rural poverty, but it was number of reviews from the then- Masle-Pulitika Gallery and the Pulitika his father who recognized his talent. significant names in art criticism. Atelier, which the painter bequeathed After debating where to send the highly From 1954, the character of his second in his will and which has been part intelligent boy, he decided to consult wife Mila (Mileva) Grbešić begins to of the museum holdings since 2008. with a well-known painter of the time, appear in Masle’s works, with whom he These three painters also were bound Marko Murat, who then recommended would have two daughters, Brigita and by bonds of friendship, but interpreting him to Kosta Strajnić, one of the Dolores. We can thank them for Masle’s Masle exclusively within this context biggest revolutionaries at the time large and preserved opus, which they did not contribute to the evaluation of the painting scene of Dubrovnik. attentively cared for with great respect. of his style which differed greatly These encounters yielded fruit, so Masle from the mentioned painters. This is enrolled in the Academy of Fine Arts in As part of the Museum of Modern Art precisely the aim of the monograph Zagreb. There he met many Dubrovnik Dubrovnik, in addition to the central by Igor Zidić which attempts to offer painters who left an impression on him, building that was built as Villa Banac a novel perspective on Masle’s opus as as did a large number of exhibitions, at Ploče, there are also the Dulčić- opposed to the latter one from which theatrical performances and concerts so far his local paintings have mostly that he attended. Upon his return to been interpreted. Although they possess Dubrovnik, from 1945 until his death, distinct value, works that are branded Masle worked as a teacher in various by single general civilizational and Dubrovnik schools. general cultural themes have unfairly fallen into the background by their The turning point in his life was simplified interpretation as works his wedding in the year 1949 to bordering on the Naïve School of art. Dubrovnik’s Dora Aleksić, who sadly, With this monograph Zidić seeks to died along with her son in childbirth. repay a historical debt to these works After this tragic event, Masle left their and restore them to their rightful house and devoted himself fully to place by providing arguments for their teaching and painting which would better understanding. Besides the local result in his first solo exhibition in Orašac, Dubrovnik and Dalmatian Dubrovnik, in the LIKUM Salon. fundamentals in his works, Zidić also The exhibition would produce a large discovers the world themes.

54 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Unlike most modern Croatian painters Hasidim whose figures and descriptions who were more inclined to mimic the he incorporated into his work. contemporary European trends from impressionism, postimpressionism to Many writings and texts in which he Cubism, Masle rather, finds his way. He followed his cycles give us detailed joins this world but does not emulate; insight into Masle’s reflections as well rather, he is guided by the acquisition of St. Peter and the chapter on apocalypse, as the letters he left to his family. some spiritual achievements of European which does not coincide with the other Often many texts and works are society at the time. Through a total texts of the Evangelists, influenced the lost in the maelstroms of everyday of 300 paintings that were published painter. From this spiritualized gospel, history, however, due to the efforts in the monograph, several obsessions Masle draws pictures of surrealism such of family and friends to preserve the that recur through the author’s cycles as the symbol of the eye that can also memory of our Dubrovnik painter, the were singled out and analyzed. One be found in European Surrealists such Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik of these obsessions represents the as Rene Magritte or in the collage of has the possibility to re-depict Masle’s exploration of himself through the form Max Ernst. Once explored in this way, opus in one place for the first time in of a self-portrait and a pseudo-portrait his opus presents the viewer with a game almost 51 years. The last posthumous that he claims as self-portraits even and an amalgam of childhood, tales exhibition was last prepared in the though they do not have any physical and folk superstitions that paralleled distant year of 1968. This time, the resemblance to the painter himself. Christian beliefs, but also came from exhibition which marks the occasion th From a total of 18 self-portraits one them as in the case with the description of the 100 Anniversary of Masle’s can follow the evolution of this genre of Masle’s father whom the boy watched birth is accompanied by a fascinating from the recognizable features of the forcing Satan out of his house. monograph that provides a colorful painter to an unrecognizable portrait picture of a combination of folk stories, that emphasizes the presentation of Here one can draw parallels with the religious literature, existentialist his spiritual state. This search for the famous Marc Chagall, who, in Paris, questions of a postwar Europe and answer to the question “Who am I?”, also painted inspired by tales from his the world’s art movements that have th through the form of self-portrait, is a native Belarusian Vitebsk and the old marked the 20 century. typical modern existentialist question stories of the Jewish community of on the path of Sartre’s literature. Asking questions about our role in the world, our context and the very meaning of existence are the themes that have occupied the artistic world by in this way seeking answers to the horrors of the Second World War.

Among the most numerous obsessions in Masle’s creativity, the horned animals, which hold symbolic significance in the folk tales of devils and Satan, must be singled out. Masle’s father was an exceptionally devout man who purchased numerous religious publications from which the artist also drew inspiration for the creation of his characters. In particular, the Gospel of

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 55 Napisala Gabrijela Bijelić

jegove skladbe bile su sugrađana i timbar od Grada, lula prijatelja: Nznak raspoznavanja, a Tići Tereze proći ni stara dobra izdanja Splitskoga Gundulići vječna djeca koja ćute svoga Kesovije, Frana i Zagrebačkoga festivala kad su te dunda Ðela. Lasića do Mila glazbene priredbe bile u zenitu. Kao dirigent, Jusić je nastupao na Zadnjeg dana svibnja, na pragu ljeta Hrnića. Jusićeva najpoznatijim koncertnim pozornicama, koje je toliko volio zbog koncerata djela upotpunila su Odlazaki albume slavnih pjevača a njegov skladateljski rad proteže se i na Gospara Malog raspjevanog Dubrovnika, večer uoči otvorenja Igara na skalinima Dalmacije poput lani preminulog svetoga Vlaha, partio je skladatelj Ðelo Olivera Dragojevića. Jusić, jedan od posljednjih dubrovačkih Zagrljeni, Volim te budalo mala, Stare gospara. ljubavi, Pusti da ti leut svira, Lula starog Kad je tog petka na momenat utihnula kapetana, samo su neke od skladbi njegova trubadurska La musica di notte, koje su obilježile glazbenu epohu, a s stao je i Grad u čudu. Kako i vazda kad njom i karijere mnogih danas poznatih umre glazbenik, čije note miluju uši izvođača. generacija, trebalo je Dubrovčanima A maestro s lulom nije stvarao samo vremena da se naviknu na gubitak, i mirnodopske evergreene, već je u to još u godini kad im je sugrađanin glazbu pretočio i užase rata koje je dobio Nagradu za životno djelo Grada preživio ostankom u opkoljenom i Dubrovnika. Tuga se nadvila nad mire bombardiranom Gradu kad je bilo od Grada, mali veliki zboraši oprostili najteže. Iz tog tegobnog vremena datira su se spontano od dunda Ðela, najbolje oratorij Istina o Gradu slobode koji se kako su mogli i znali, pjesmom na godinama povezuje s Danom branitelja ‘starom dogovorenom mjestu’, na Dubrovnika i pozornicom Igara. Prije pločniku drevnog Straduna. predaje ključa glumcima, publiku - Kenova, zlato moje? Adio, moja su godištima u Igre uvodili glasovi sinjorina – zn’o bi gospar Ðelo rijet Tića Gundulića Malog raspjevanog u prolazu, onako melodično, kao da Dubrovnika, osnovanoga daleke 1962. apena stvara novi stih. Teška je bolest godine. Prkosili su oni s dundom Ðelom maestra na silu odvojila od partiture i sirenama opće opasnosti upornim dirigentskog štapića, ali su note zavazda probama ‘na starom dogovorenom ostale. Lebde one sveđ poviše Lokruma mjestu, u istu uru’ i pošli u Vatikan i sad, za bure i šiloka, svaki put kad se viđet Papu... sjetimo krovate leptirice gospara Ðela Valjda su svi Dubrovčani barem ili Dubrovačkih trubadura koji su se s jednom zapjevali Ðelove neumrle njim ‘na timunu’ proslavili daleko izvan hitove Dubrovačka dječica su najljepša granica ondašnje države. Ploče i albume na svijetu, Lutkica na dar, Lula starog slavuja u tajicama izdavali su svojedobno Kapetana, Gusar s Porporele, diskografski giganti poput CBS-a ili Tići Gundulići... EMI-a, dok ih je po portunima pjevušila Tisuće djece kroz tih 57 godišta mladost dubrovačka. zakantalo je o ljepotama Grada, Autor niza svevremenskih djela zabavne djetinjstvu i ljubavi, što im je donijelo i i klasične glazbe, Ðelo Jusić, označio nagradu Porin za CD Božić u Gradu. je karijere mnogih glazbenika, od Bez skladbi Ðela Jusića nisu mogla

56 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. - čije su note ostale lebdjeti iznad Grada

spomenimo samo CD-ove snimljene s dubrovačkim klapama Ragusa i orkestralnu (suita Dubrovački kantuni), Maestral...no, zaludu je nabrajati vokalno-instrumentalnu (oratorij De riječima Ðelovo tezoro. Najbolje ćete ga civitate libertatis veritas), scensku upamtit’ ako poslušate prvom zgodom (mjuzikl Dundo Maroje), filmsku i što nam je to dundo Ðelo ostavio u televizijsku glazbu (Zlatna arena za dotu. Na gramofonu, streamu ili sa Odlazak Gosparaglazbu u filmu Dubrovački suton, slušalicama, svejedno je. Gustat će vas 1999.). Zadužio je Jusić i klapsku scenu, što čujete i radi tega ćete gustat sikuro...

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 57 by Gabrijela Bijelić

Remembering Maestro is musical compositions captured the soul of the Hcity; his tobacco pipe was a sign of recognition, and Tići Gundulići (Little Singers of Dubrovnik), his eternal children who treasure their uncle Ðelo. fellow citizen, received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the City On the last day of May, on the verge of Dubrovnik. Sadness fell upon the of the summer season that he loved leadership became famous far beyond city; the once little and now all grown so much, departed the composer Ðelo the boundaries of the former Yugoslavia. up choir singers spontaneously said Jusić, one of the last true gentlemen of In fact, their records and albums were goodbye to Uncle Ðelo, as best as they Dubrovnik. once issued by recording companies such could and knew, by singing at the ‘old as CBS or EMI, while their songs were spot’, on the sidewalk of the ancient “What’s up, young lady? Adio, my sung in doorways by the young people Stradun. Signorina,” Ðelo used to say in passing, of Dubrovnik. as melodically as if he were just creating The author of a series of timeless works a new verse. Illness forcibly separated When his Troubadour song La musica of pop and classical music, Ðelo Jusić Maestro from the score and his di Notte (NightÐelo Music) went silent that has influenced the careers of many Jusić: conductor’s wand, but the notes have Friday, the city was in shock. As always, musicians among his fellow citizens remained forever. Even now, they hover when a musician dies, whose notes and friends, including Tereza Kesovija, all over Lokrum, during the bora or have filled the ears of generations, it Frano Lasić and Milo Hrnić. Jusić’s sirocco winds, every time we remember took time for the people of Dubrovnik works also complemented albums by Ðelo’s bow tie or the Dubrovnik to become used to the loss. His death famous Dalmatian singers like Oliver Troubadours band, which under his came in the very year in which he, their Dragojević who died in 2018. The

58 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Embraced, I Love You Little Fool, Old Everyone from Dubrovnik has at Neither the good old Split nor Zagreb Loves, Let the Lute Play for You, The least once sung Ðelo’s immortal hits festivals at the height of their success Old Captain’s Pipe, are just some of his Dubrovnik Children Are the Most Beautiful could pass by without numbers enduring compositions that will live on of All, The Gift Doll, The Old Captain’s composed by Ðelo Jusić. As a conductor, in the careers of many famous Croatian Pipe, The Pirate from Porporela, Tići Jusić performed on the most famous performers of today. Gundulići… Thousands of children concert stages, and his opus extends in these 57 years have sung about to the orchestral (the suite Dubrovnik Not only did the maestro with the pipe the beauty of the city, childhood Corners), the vocal-instrumental (oratorio produce peacetime evergreens, but he and love, which even brought them De civitate Libertatis Veritas), the stage also poured into his music the horrors the nationwide Porin Award for the (the musical Uncle Maroje) and film of the war that he survived, remaining Christmas in the City album. and television music (Golden Arena in his besieged and bombed city when award for music in the film Dubrovnik Twilight, 1999). Local a capella singing style called klapa also remains indebted to Jusić. But it is pointless to enumerate Ðelo’s legacy in words. You will remember it best if you take the first opportunity to listen to that what Uncle Ðelo has left us. Listening on the gramophone, streaming from the internet or with headphones, it doesn’t matter. His spirit will live on through the words and music he created, which have become part of the life of the city, - The bard of Dubrovnik and of all of Croatia, and will remain for generations to come.

it was the most difficult. The oratorio Truth about the City of Freedom dates from this difficult time, which has been asso- ciated both with Dubrovnik’s Veterans’ Day and the opening ceremony of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Dur- ing the ceremony, before handing the key to the city to the actors, for years it was tradition that the audience be introduced to the Summer Festival by the voices of Tići Gundulići or the Little Singers of Dubrovnik children’s choir, founded back in 1962. With their Uncle Ðelo Ðelo,Jusić: they defied the air raid sirens with persistent rehearsals “in the old place, at the same time”, and even managed to get out of the city to go to the Vatican to see the Pope.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 59 Znameniti Dubrovčani Napisao Damir Račić

Antun- admiral vjeran portugalskom Pušić dvoru alo je poznato kako prva pa je tako tek na Bečkom kongresu zemlje te je govorio više stranih jezika. portugalska novinarka, 1815. prestala postojati Dubrovačka Tijekom svoga boravka u Italiji upoznaje Mpjesnikinja i urednica čak Republika na političkoj karti Europe, a portugalskoga veleposlanika koji ga triju listova koji su kreirali portugalski njezin državni teritorij ušao je u sastav je uspio nagovoriti da posjeti Lisabon. društveni i javni život u 19. stoljeću, Austrijske Monarhije zajedno s ostalim Dolaskom u Lisabon privukao je pažnju po svome ocu, Antunu Pušiću, vuče ilirskim provincijama. U razdoblju svojim naočitim izgledom. Bio je visok, podrijetlo iz Cavtata, gradića u blizini samostalnosti Republike, ali i poslije, imao je svijetlosmeđu kosu koja je rano Dubrovnika. Antun Pušić je rođen u Dubrovnik je dao mnoge znamenite posijedila, oči krupne i tamnoplave. Cavtatu 1760., ali je svoju uspješnu osobe. Svakako najpoznatiji među njima Iskazanim znanjem i uglađenošću pomorsku i političku karijeru ostvario je Rugjer Josip Bošković (1711.-1787.), ubrzo je stekao simpatije na dvoru, u Portugalu. Godine 1791. oženio se matematičar, fizičar, astronom i filozof. te je predstavljen kraljici Mariji I.. Portugalkom i s njom je imao šestoro Jedan od Mjesečevih kratera nazvan je Obavlja važne poslove za kraljicu u svezi djece. Jedna od njih bila je Antonia njegovim imenom. Brojni Dubrovčani prijenosa svetačkih moći iz Italije za Gertrudes Pusich (1805.-1883.), prva su zbog svoje visoke naobrazbe ili jedan novoizgrađeni samostan u Estreli. portugalska novinarka koja se uvijek određene vještine zauzimali istaknute Tijekom svojih putovanja između potpisivala prezimenom Pusich, dok je vojne položaje ili obavljali odgovorne Lisabona i Italije upoznaje astronoma u mladosti objavljivala svoje stihove. političke funkcije na kraljevskim i i kardinala Franzinia koji postaje Pokrenula je i uređivala čak tri lista koji carskim dvorovima širom Europe, pa učitelj kraljevske djece. Na jednom su imali velikoga odjeka u tadašnjem čak i na dvoru ruske carice Katarine II. od prijema u kraljevskoj palači Antun portugalskom društvenom i političkom Velike (1729.-1796.). Pušić upoznao je buduću suprugu životu. Lisabonska Općinska skupština Jedan od istaknutih bio je i Antun Pušić Annu Mariju Isabel Nunes s kojom se postavila je spomen ploču na kući u (Cavtat, 1760. – Lisabon, 1838.), koji je vjenčao krajem kolovoza 1791. godine. kojoj je provela posljednje godine života, najprije bio u službi portugalske kraljice U braku su dobili šestoro djece, tri a 1960. godine njezinim imenom, u Marije I., a potom i u službi njezinoga sina i tri kćeri, od kojih je jedna umrla lisabonskoj četvrti Alvarade, nazvana je sina, portugalskoga kralja Ivana VI., kao beba. S obitelji seli na otok Sao jedna ulica. kojemu je Pušić od 1801. bio mornarički Nicolau gdje će živjeti desetak godina. Teško je procijeniti koliki je broj intendant, odnosno nadglednik na Svojim znanjem i savjetima poboljšava Dubrovčana koji se „kriju“ u europskim Zelenortskim otocima, a od 1818. g. život domorodaca unaprijedivši njihovo arhivima i koliko je još neotkrivenih postao je i guverner te na toj dužnosti ribarstvo i poljoprivredu. Poticao ih je podataka o nekom Dubrovčaninu ili ostao sve do rujna 1821. godine kada na uzgoj vinove loze, kave, pamuka, podaniku Dubrovačke Republike koji se vraća u Lisabon. Njegova pomorska duhana i drugih poljoprivrednih je ostavio značajan trag u povijesti neke karijera postupno je napredovala, te kultura. Nakon zauzeća Portugala europske države u minulim stoljećima. je 1819. Antun Pušić stekao visoki od Napoleonove vojske, cjelokupni Dubrovačka Republika bila je mala mornarički čin i postao admiral portugalski kraljevski dvor, sa 16 velikih država na istočnoj obali Jadranskoga Portugalske ratne mornarice. jedrenjaka, bježi krajem studenog 1807. mora, samostalna 450 godina, od Podrijetlom je bio iz imućne trgovačke prema Brazilu gdje stižu sredinom 1358. do 1808.godine. Francuzi su obitelji. Završio je osnovnu naobrazbu u siječnja 1808. godine. Rio de Janeiro ušli u Dubrovnik 1806. godine, ali Dubrovniku, a zatim je krenuo u Italiju proglašen je privremenom portugalskom su tek dvije godine kasnije ukinuli na daljnje školovanje, te kao student prijestolnicom. Pušić se najprije vraća u dubrovačku Vladu. Po međunarodnomu usvaja znanja iz različitih predmeta od Lisabon 1810. godine jer mu je ukinut pravu, nakon zaposjedanja tuđega matematike do poljodjelstva. Kako položaj pomorskog intendanta, a potom teritorija uz uporabu vojne sile, ne navodi njegova kćer Gertruda Antonia u Brazil. Diplomatski predstavnik prestaje postojanje dotadašnje države Pusich u biografiji svoga oca, bio je vješt Bečkoga dvora u Riu de Janeiru ponudio u međunarodno priznatim granicama, u mačevanju i plesu. Obišao je mnoge mu je visok čin u austrijskoj mornarici,

60 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Antun Pušić

ali on ostaje vjeran Portugalcima. Kralj rt) dolazi od najzapadnije točke Afrike sinova (1823.) koji su bili na službi u Ivan VI. znao je to cijeniti pa ga 1818. k o j a s e d a n a s n a l a z i u S e n e g a l u . kolonijama, teško pogađaju Pušića. imenuje guvernerom Zelenortskih Kada su povlašteni pojedinci počeli Potresa ga i prerana smrt Ivana VI. otoka, a 1819. dodjeljuje mu i čin spletkariti protiv Pušića, zatražio je (1826.) kojemu je vjerno služio. Do admirala ratne mornarice. Zelenortski razrješenje s dužnosti, a u rujnu 1821. kraja života, pogotovo nakon ženine otoci ili Zelenortska Republika koja sa svojom obitelji se vratio u Lisabon. smrti (1835.), živio je povučeno, baveći je dobila nezavisnost 1975., sastoje se Dok je obnašao dužnost guvernera na se znanstvenim radom. Umro je 6. od 10 većih i 8 manjih otoka. Nalaze Zelenortskim otocima, narodi Otočja veljače 1838., a po iskazu sluškinje, se u središnjemu dijelu Atlantskoga nazivali su ga ocem, neprestano tražeći koja je bila uz njega, posljednje riječi oceana, oko 600 km udaljeni su od da im se vrati, šaljući molbe i peticije „Bože moj!“, izgovorio je na hrvatskome najzapadnijeg dijela afričke obale. svim mogućim vladama, od trenutak jeziku. Pokopan je na lisabonskom Portugalci su nenaseljene otoke otkrili kada je prestao biti guverner Otočja pa groblju Prazeres. 1456., a potom su ih i kolonizirali. sve do kraja njegova života. Građanski Portugalski naziv „Cabo Verde“ (Zeleni rat u Portugalu, te smrt dvaju njegovih

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 61 Notable Figures in Dubrovnik History Antun Pušić A Navy Admiral for the Portuguese Court

among them is Ruđer Bošković (1711- 1787), mathematician, physicist, astronomer and philosopher. One of by Damir Račić It is difficult to estimate how many the lunar craters was named after him. lives of people from Dubrovnik are Many people from Dubrovnik, due to ew people know that the first hidden in European archives and how their advanced education and skills, Portuguese female journalist, much undisclosed information is still held prominent military positions or Fpoet and editor of three available about Dubrovnik citizens or important political functions at royal newspapers, who created Portuguese subjects of the Dubrovnik Republic who and imperial courts throughout Europe, social and public life in the 19th century, left a significant mark on the history and even at the court of the Russian had roots in Cavtat, a small town near of European countries in centuries Empress Catherine the Great (1729- Dubrovnik. Her father, Antun Pušić, past. The Republic of Dubrovnik was a 1796). was born in Cavtat in 1760 and had small city-state on the east coast of the a successful naval and political career Adriatic Sea, independent for 450 years, One of these prominent Dubrovnik in Portugal. In 1791 he married a from 1358 to 1808. The French, under citizens was Antun Pušić (born Cavtat, Portuguese woman and together they Napoleon, entered Dubrovnik in 1806, 1760 – died Lisbon, 1838), who first had six children. One of them was and formally abolished the Dubrovnik served the Portuguese Queen Mary Antónia Gertrudes Pusich (1805-1883), government two years later. It was not I, and was later in the service of her the first Portuguese writer to always until the Congress of Vienna in 1815 son, Portuguese King John VI, under sign her published poems with the that the Republic of Dubrovnik ceased whom Pušić was naval superintendent surname Pusich. She founded and edited to exist on the political map of Europe in the Cape Verde Islands. In 1818 as many as three newspapers that had and its state territory became part of the he became Governor and remained great impact on Portuguese social and Austrian monarchies. in that post until September 1821, political life at that time. The Lisbon when he returned to Lisbon. His naval Municipal Assembly erected a memorial During the period of independence career gradually progressed, and in plaque on the house in which she spent of the Republic, and also afterwards, 1819 Antun Pušić gained the highest the final years of her life, and in 1960, a Dubrovnik was home to many notable naval rank and became Admiral of the street was named after her in Lisbon. figures. Certainly the most famous Portuguese Navy.

62 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. of the African coast. The Portuguese Nunes, whom he married at the end of discovered the uninhabited islands August 1791. They had six children, in 1456 and colonized them. The Pušić was originally from a wealthy three sons and three daughters, one Portuguese name “Cabo Verde” (Green merchant family. He completed his of whom died as a baby. The family Cape) comes from the westernmost elementary education in Dubrovnik, moved to the island of Sao Nicolau, point of Africa, today located in Senegal. then went to Italy for further education, where they would live for ten years. and as a student acquired knowledge in By sharing his knowledge and through When privileged individuals began various subjects from mathematics to advice, he improved the life of the to plot against Pušić, he requested agriculture. As his daughter Gertrude natives by improving their fisheries and his dismissal from office and returned Antonio Pusich states in her father’s agriculture. He encouraged them to to Lisbon in September 1821 with biography, he was adept at fencing and grow vineyards, coffee, cotton, tobacco, his family. While in his capacity as dancing. He toured many countries and other agricultural crops. Governor of Cape Verde, the people and spoke several foreign languages. of the Islands called him a father, During his stay in Italy, he met the Following the occupation of Portugal by constantly asking that he return to Portuguese ambassador, who managed Napoleon’s army, the entire Portuguese them, sending requests and petitions to persuade him to visit Lisbon. Arriving royal court fled to Brazil to Rio de to all possible governments, from the in Lisbon, he attracted attention with Janeiro, which had been proclaimed moment he ceased to be governor of his striking appearance. He was tall, the temporary capital of Portugal. the Islands until the end of his life. The had light brown hair that had grown Having lost his position, a diplomat civil war in Portugal and the death of gray early, and large dark blue eyes. from the Viennese Court in Rio de two of his sons (1823) who served in With his knowledge and grace, he Janeiro offered Pušić a high rank in the colonies hit Pušić hard. He was also soon gained favor at the court and was the Austrian navy, but he remained shaken by the untimely death of John introduced to Queen Mary I, for whom loyal to the Portuguese. King John VI VI (1826), whom he served faithfully. he later performed important tasks appreciated this loyalty and in 1818 he For the rest of his life, especially after regarding the transfer of secular powers was appointed Governor of Cape Verde, his wife’s death (1835), he lived in from Italy. During his travels between and in 1819 he was awarded the rank of seclusion, engaging in scientific work. Lisbon and Italy, he met the astronomer Admiral of the Navy. Cape Verde, which He died on 6 February 1838, and and Cardinal Franzini, who became the gained independence in 1975, consists according to the maid who was at his teacher of the royal children. At one of 10 major and 8 smaller islands. They side and heard his last words, he uttered of the receptions at the royal palace, are located in the central Atlantic, about the words “My God!” in Croatian. He is Antun Pušić met Anna Maria Isabel 600 km from the westernmost part buried in Lisbon’s Prazeres Cemetery.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 63 Dubrovački dizajneri

Napisala Lidija Crnčević

ad se umori od projektiranja i posla u svojoj građevinskoj Kfirmi, mlada Dubrovkinja Ida Aleksić Filipović ulazi u svoju malu radionicu, svoj izolirani kreativni djelić svemira u kojemu osmišljava i izrađuje nakit od plemenitih i poluplemenitih metala ukrašavajući ga poludragim kamenjem, Swarovski kristalima, ohridskim biserima, a nerijetko i - Ida Aleksić Filipović je rođena u betonom. Njezin PALDAR jewelry Dubrovniku gdje je završila osnovnu je već našao put do djevojaka i žena i srednju školu, stekla je diplomu koje su prepoznale osobnost i hrabrost Građevinskog fakulteta u Zagrebu koju iskazuju noseći te jedinstvene i u kojem je njezina sadašnja adresa originalne kreacije spojene od, naizgled, stanovanja, a pri izboru studija i potom Ida Al eksić Filipović nespojivih materijala. Ručni rad mlade posla kojim se željela baviti, izašla je dubrovačke kreatorice nesumnjivo na vidjelo njezina buntovnost i izazov napustio ovaj svijet, još kad je njezina pripada kategoriji suvremenog, malo dokazivanja u nespecifičnoj struci za majka bila posve malena djevojčica. No, “pomaknutog” nakita koji je inspiriran žene. Željela je svoju borbu i svoj put, priče o nonu, njegovom slikarstvu, ali tradicijskim nakitom ovoga našega kraja jer potječe iz obitelji u kojoj dotad nije i poeziji, sjajnom daru pisanja, o čemu kojim su nekoć mlade žene pokazivale bilo građevinara. No, precizna strana joj je pričala majka Dolores, stvarale svoj status i pripadnost imućnijoj ili njezinog inženjerskog mozga, koji teži su kod Ide dojam i osjećaj prisutnosti manje imućnoj obitelji, dok je on danas egzaktnom, dobio je pandan u onoj kakvu imamo prema nekome tko nam gotovo isključivo odraz stila i želje da se nježnijoj, kreativnijoj strani okrenutoj je iznimno blizak. Stoga je i dan, kada i njime pokaže kako je riječ o nekome estetici i maštovitosti, možda onoj crti se njezin nakit našao u Suvenirnici pod tko se ne boji biti drukčiji. Buntovan je stvaranja naslijeđenoj od nona, velikog krovom Umjetničke galerije Dubrovnik, i ženstven u isto vrijeme, skladno složen dubrovačkog kolorističkog slikara u kojoj su izložena vrhunska likovna od sirovih i grubih pojedinih materijala Antuna Masle. Odrastala je u kući punoj ostvarenja njezinoga nona, Ida doživjela u kontrastu sa sjajnim kristalima ili njegovih slika, s osjećajem da je gotovo nekim sudbonosnim prstom povezanosti mističnim poludragim kamenjem. i fizički prisutan u obitelji, iako je davno i plana koji nikako ne može biti slučajan.

64 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Ida Al eksić Filipović - građevinarka koja ugrađuje beton i u svoj nakit

Svaki komad Idinog nakita ukazuje na preciznost i vještinu koju je izučila na specijaliziranim edukacijama i kod vrhunskih starih majstora zanata, svaki komad je originalni ručni rad koji svojim izgledom već ima posve prepoznatljivi novi je detalj njezine igre s urođenom potpis Idinog PALDAR nakita, bilo kreativnošću koja mora naći put prema da je riječ o naušnicama, prstenju ili vani. Kada se umori od građevine i nakit, oslobađajući najpozitivniju ogrlicama. Svaki novi komad nakita birokracije, tvrdih pravila i prepreka energiju koja je zapletena u njezinome nosi malo više maštivosti od onog koje se nađu na njezinome putu mlade biću, a što se osjeća i što privlači u prethodnog, Ida ne želi kalupe niti samostalne poduzetnice, Ida ulazi u njezinom nakitu. ponavljanja, u svakom komadu nakita svoju malenu radionicu gdje tucka svoj

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 65 DUBROVNIK DESIGNERS

by Lidija Crnčević

hen she gets tired of designing and working for Wher construction company, Ida Aleksić Filipović enters her small workshop, her isolated, creative corner of the universe where she designs and crafts metal jewelry, which she adorns with semi-precious stones, Swarovski crystals, Ohrid pearls and often, even concrete. Her PALDAR jewelry has already found its way to girls and

Ida Al eksić Filipović

66 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. women who show their personality and Each piece of Ida’s jewelry shows the courage by wearing these unique and precision and skill that she learned original creations fused with seemingly in specialized courses under the incompatible materials. The handiwork guidance of top masters. Each is an of this young Dubrovnik designer original handmade piece that has the undoubtedly belongs to the category of completely recognizable signature of contemporary, slightly quirky jewelry, engineering mind, which strives for Ida’s PALDAR jewelry, be it earrings, inspired by the traditional jewelry of the exact, has a counterpart in that rings or necklaces. Each new piece of this region by which young women gentler, more creative side, which is jewelry carries a little more imagination once showed their status and family focused on aesthetics and imagination, than the previous one, as Ida does not background. Today, jewelry is almost perhaps the creative side inherited from want molds or repetitions, in each piece exclusively a reflection of the wearer’s her grandfather, the great Dubrovnik of jewelry is a new detail of her play style and the desire to show that they painter Antun Masle. She grew up in with innate creativity that must find are not afraid to be different. Filipovic’s a house full of his paintings, with the its expression. When she grows tired of work is rebellious and feminine at the feeling that he was almost physically construction and bureaucracy, the hard same time, harmoniously composed of present in the family, even though rules and obstacles that obstruct her raw and rough individual materials that he left this world long ago, while her way as a young entrepreneur, Ida enters contrasts with shiny crystals or mystical mother was just a little girl. However, her small workshop where she forms her semi-precious stones. stories about her grandfather, his jewelry, unleashing the most positive painting, but also poetry, the great gift energy in her being, that which is felt Ida Aleksić Filipović was born and of writing that her mother Dolores and makes her jewelry so attractive. raised in Dubrovnik, and received would tell her about, created within Ida a diploma from the Faculty of Civil the impression and sense of presence Engineering in Zagreb, where she that we have towards someone who currently lives. Through her choice of is very close to us. Hence, the day her studies and profession came forth her jewelry found its way into the souvenir rebellious side and the desire to succeed shop in the Dubrovnik Museum in a profession with few women. She of Modern Art which displays her wanted her own fight and her own grandfather’s finest works of art, Ida journey because she came from a family experienced a circle of connection and where there were no civil engineers greater plan that could in no way be before her. But the precise side of her accidental.

Ida Al eksić Filipović -a civil engineer who incorporates concrete into her jewelry

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 67 - „Stazom deva“ stizala je hrana za branitelje na prvoj obrambenoj crti Grada

Serpentine Srđa

rdo Srđ nalazi se iznad Grada Dubrovnika s njegove mora i Grada Dubrovnika na južnoj ​Bsjeverne strane, a najviša kota strani, gdje su izgrađene serpentine u mogla izgraditi vojna tvrđava Imperijal. brda je na 415 m nadmorske visine. razdoblju od 1808. do 1812. u svrhu Ukidanjem Dubrovačke Republike, Padine brda Srđ spuštaju se do samoga izrade puta do vrha brda kako bi se nakon okupacije francuske vojske

68 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. - „Stazom deva“ stizala je hrana za branitelje na prvoj obrambenoj crti Grada

Napisala Varina Jurica Turk Serpentine Srđa

1808., po Napoleonovom nalogu, koji je želio učvrstiti francusku vlast na ovim područjima, započinje izgradnja fortifikacijskih objekata na cijelom dubrovačkom području, pa tako i tvrđave Fort Impérial na Srđu. Francuzima je najvažnije bilo što prije dovršiti tvrđavu Imperijal čija se gradnja produžila radi težine terena i probijanja dugih serpentina uz padinu Srđa. U gradnji su sudjelovali i brojni stanovnici dubrovačkoga područja, kao i klesari s Korčule odakle se donosio kamen. Radna snaga iz Dubrovnika i okolice u luci je vršila pretovar građe koja je potom mazgama, magarcima i drugim tovarnim životinjama prenošena serpentinama na Srđ. Radovi su intenzivno trajali dvije godine, a njihov završetak je obilježen paljbom topovskih plotuna na Napoleonov rođendan 15. kolovoza 1812. godine. Nakon Bečkoga kongresa 1815., austrijska vojska preuzima Fort Imperial kojeg u više navrata proširuje i nadograđuje. Tvrđava je bila u funkciji do 1882. kad je austro – ugarskom okupacijom Bosne Dubrovnik službeno

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 69 prestao biti utvrđeni grad na granici kolektivnoj memoriji, te se u spomen terrain and digging required to create s Turskom, a njezin vojni značaj za na njih održava Utrka „Stazom deva“ the winding trail along the slopes of obranu Grada iznova je potvrđen u u sklopu Programa Grada Dubrovnika Srđ. Many people from the Dubrovnik – An historic path in the defense of Dubrovnik Domovinskome ratu 1991. -1995. za obilježavanje Dana dubrovačkih area participated in the construction of godine. branitelja, 6. prosinca. the trail, as well as stonecutters from Opći napad srpsko–crnogorskih snaga Danas serpentine služe za planinarenje i Korčula from where the stone was predvođenih tzv. JNA na dubrovačko u turističke svrhe, a ujedno su i „Križni brought. At the port, workers from područje otpočeo je 1. listopada 1991. put“ na Srđ i tvrđavu Imperijal u kojoj Dubrovnik and the vicinity handled god. raketiranjem telekomunikacijskih je smješten Muzej Domovinskoga rata the transfer of the material that was sustava na Srđu čijim je oštećenjem, Dubrovnik odakle se pruža veličanstven then conveyed by mules, donkeys and uz pomorsku, pojačana i informativna pogled na Grad i Elafite, posebno other cargo animals up the trail to Srđ. blokada Grada. zadivljujuć u vrijeme zalaska sunca. Construction took place intensively Nakon relativno brzog dolaska for two years, and its completion was neprijateljske vojske na prilaze marked by rounds of canon firing on Dubrovniku, poseban značaj za njegovu Napoleon›s birthday, August 15, 1812. obranu ima plato Srđa na kojem se tijekom studenoga i početkom prosinca After the Congress of Vienna in 1991. god. vode žestoke borbe. U 1815, the Austrian Army took over isto vrijeme, bezobzirnim agresorskim Fort Imperial and repeatedly had it napadima, zabilježena su dotad najteža expanded and upgraded. The fort was razaranja Dubrovnika na kojega je in operation until 1882 when, following palo više od 3000 topničkih projektila. the Austro-Hungarian occupation of Svi naredni pokušaji osvajanja tvrđave Bosnia, Dubrovnik officially ceased to Imperijal uspješno su odbijeni te je be a fortified city on the border with the sve vrijeme ostala jedan od najvažnijih Ottoman Empire. However, the military strateških objekata obrane Grada. ising dramatically above importance of the fortress complex for Serpentinama na vrh Srđa, koje su bile the city of Dubrovnik, Srđ the defense of the city was reaffirmed in jedina moguća komunikacija s tvrđavom RMountain reaches an elevation the 1991-1995 Homeland War. Imperijal tj. položajem Hrvatske of 415 meters above sea level. On its vojske i hrvatskim braniteljima na southern side, the slopes of Srđ descend The all-out attack by Serbian- platou Srđa, dolazila je i vojna opskrba, all the way to the sea and Dubrovnik. Montenegrin forces, led by the Yugoslav hrana, oružje, municija, drva za ogrjev The winding serpentine mountain trail National Army, began on 1 October i dr. Jednako kao i početkom 19. to the peak was built between 1808 1991 with a rocket attack on the stoljeća, sva vojna oprema i namirnice and 1812 so that the Imperial military telecommunications systems on Srđ, donošene su uz pomoć tovarnih fort could be built at the top. The resulting, in addition to the naval životinja, a nakon njihovog stradavanja construction of fortifications in the blockade, in the added blockade of u studenome 1991., iznošene su na entire Dubrovnik area, including Fort communication in and out of the city. leđima ljudi. Iznosili su ih sami branitelji Imperial on Srđ, ordered by Napoleon i građani, dragovoljci i mobilizirani. to consolidate French rule in the Following the relatively rapid approach Kolona ljudi, s teretom na leđima, area, commenced in the aftermath of of the enemy army towards Dubrovnik koja je išla prema tvrđavi Imperijal Dubrovnik’s occupation by the French itself, the plateau of Srđ, where fierce izgledala je braniteljima na Srđu kao Army in 1808 and the subsequent fighting took place during November karavana te su prozvani „Devama“. abolition of the Republic of Dubrovnik. and early December 1991, took on Svi su oni, prelazeći vijugave staze particular importance for the city’s uzbrdo, danju, ili u okrilju noći, ovim For the French, the most important defense. Hit by more than 3,000 načinom pomagali u držanju prve crte i thing was to finish Fort Imperial as artillery missiles, Dubrovnik suffered održavanju obrane Grada. Dubrovačkim soon as possible, but its construction destruction through ruthless aggression. „Devama“ osigurano je mjesto u was extended due to the challenging All subsequent attempts to conquer

70 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. – An historic path in the defense of Dubrovnik

​Srđ Mountain Trail by Varina Jurica Turk

Fort Imperial were successfully defeated to hold the front line and maintain the also host to the “Way of the Cross”, a and the fort remained one of the most defense of the city. The “camels” of remembrance walk to the top of Srđ important strategic structures of the Dubrovnik have secured a place in the Mountain and Fort Imperial which city›s defense. collective memory and a Camel Trail houses the Dubrovnik Homeland War Race takes place as part of the City of Museum. The site offers a magnificent The mountain trail to the top of Dubrovnik’s Veterans’ Day Program view of the city and the Elaphite Srđ was the only possible form of each year on December 6th. Islands, especially amazing at sunset. communication with Fort Imperial, i.e. the position of the Croatian Army Nowadays, the winding mountain trail and the Croatian defenders on the is used by hikers and tourists and it is Srđ plateau. The trail was used to transport military supplies, food, weapons, ammunition, firewood, etc., and just as in the early 19th century, all military equipment and supplies were carried up the mountain by cargo animals. After the animals were killed in November 1991, the defenders themselves and citizens, volunteers and conscripts brought up the supplies on their backs. The train of people with loads on their backs, heading towards Fort Imperial, to the defenders on Srđ resembled a caravan, so they called them “camels”. While climbing the winding paths uphill, by day or at night, in this way all of them helped

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 71 Napisao / by Mislav Ćimić Mladi dubrovački plivač

livački klub Jug od svojih je početaka hrvatskom sportu dao Pizuzetno velik broj uspješnih plivača. Na gruškom bazenu i danas stasaju mlade plivačke nade za koje će se u budućnosti sigurno još čuti. Jedan od njih je i Dubrovčanin Mario Šurković Mario Šurković rođen ne tako davne 2003. godine. Na - državni prvak i rekorder Prvenstvu Hrvatske u plivanju za dobne skupine mlađih juniora, juniora i mlađih seniora koje se održalo od 29. srpnja do juniorskoj kategoriji. Zlato su osvojili svaki napor zajamčeno je lakši, a put 1. kolovoza u Zagrebu, zaslužio je čak s vremenom od 7 minuta, 46 sekundi prema pobjedničkom postolju brži i pet titula državnoga prvaka te osvojio i 41 stotinku. Bili su brži gotovo četiri bezbolniji. U svojoj plivačkoj karijeri ukupno osam pojedinačnih medalja sekunde od srebrene štafete zagrebačke mladi Mario Šurković na pobjedničko od kojih su četiri zlatne, tri srebrne i Mladosti, a trećeplasirana Dubrava postolje zasigurno će se uspeti još mnogo jedna brončana. Uz to, Mario je bio dio zaostala je gotovo sedam sekundi. puta, i to na radost i ponos, ne samo Jugove ekipe koja je osvojila štafetno svoje obitelji, već čitavoga Plivačkog zlato, a postavio je i novi državni rekord Plivači Juga na ovom Prvenstvu kluba Jug i rodnog mu Dubrovnika. u disciplini 200 mješovito za mlađe Hrvatske osvojili su ukupno 17 medalja juniore. od kojih osam zlatnih, šest srebrnih i tri brončane. Radi se o velikoj brojci Mario je bio zlatni na 200 mješovito odličja, osobito kada se u obzir uzme da u čak tri uzrasne kategorije; u je nastupilo ukupno 310 natjecatelja iz ince its beginnings, the Jug konkurenciji mlađih juniora, juniora 34 kluba, a PK Jug klub predstavljalo Swimming Club has produced i mlađih seniora. Srebrni je bio na 50 je 11 članova. Neki od plivača boje San exceptional number of slobodno u konkurenciji mlađih juniora svoga kluba brane i kao dio državne successful swimmers. To this day the i juniora. U disciplini 100 slobodno reprezentacije za svoj uzrast pa je tako Gruž swimming pool is home to young osvojio je zlato u kategoriji mlađih Mario Šurković u srpnju nastupio na swimming hopefuls that will surely be juniora, srebro u kategoriji juniora i Europskom juniorskom prvenstvu heard of in the future. Mario Šurković, broncu u kategoriji mlađih seniora. U u ruskom gradu Kazanu. Bio je to born in not so distant 2003, is one utrci 200 mješovito Mario je oborio njegov debi na tako velikom natjecanju. among these Dubrovnik hopefuls. državni rekord koji je bio star deset Nedugo nakon nastupa u Rusiji At the 2019 Croatian Swimming godina. Prethodno razdoblje rekord uslijedilo je državno natjecanje na kojem Championship, he earned five State je držao Fran Krznarić iz zagrebačke je postigao sjajne rezultate. A postizao Champion titles and won a total of eight Mladosti, a mladi Jugaš Mario ih je i ranije - vrijedi istaknuti da je bio individual medals, including four Gold, Šurković plivao je čak 75 stotinki brže trostruki kadetski prvak Hrvatske 2017. three Silver and one Bronze in youth od staroga državnog rekorda. Novo godine. Ti rezultati ne iznenađuju, jer categories. In addition, Mario was part najbolje vrijeme za mlađe juniore u sportska krv teče u obitelji Šurković. of the Jug team that won Gold in the 200 mješovito sada iznosi 2 minute, Mariov otac Nikša bivši je košarkaš relay and he set a new state record in 6 sekundi i 85 stotinki! Sedmi je to Dubrovnika, a očeva sestra Marijana the 200 meters medley for Juniors. put da je Mario oborio državni rekord. bila je, poput nećaka, plivačica Juga Trenutno drži čak četiri državna rekorda: - i to višestruka državna prvakinja i In the 200 meter medley race, Mario tri kadetska te odnedavno i ovaj rekord rekorderka. Nastupala je na Europskom broke the state record that was ten na 200 mješovito u kategoriji mlađih juniorskom prvenstvu te 2000. godine years old. Fran Krznarić from Zagreb’s juniora. na Olimpijskim igrama u Sydneyju sa Mladost Swimming Club used to hold samo 16 godina, koliko i Mario sada the record, but the young Jug swimmer Velik uspjeh na Prvenstvu Hrvatske ima. Mario Šurković improved the time by ostvarila je Jugova muška juniorska 75 hundredths of a second. The new štafeta osvojivši naslov državnoga Plivački talent Marija Šurkovića možda best time for Younger Juniors in the 200 prvaka u disciplini četiri puta 200 dijelom i jest obiteljsko nasljeđe, no meter medley now stands at 2 minutes, slobodno. Mario je u njoj plivao s ovako iznimni rezultati postižu se, 6 seconds and 85 hundredths! It’s the klupskim kolegama Markom Baletinom, prije svega, predanim radom i trudom. seventh time that Mario has broken the Michelom Brassardom i Ðivom Vrhunski rezultati uvijek su spoj talenta state record. He currently holds as many Damićem. Ova Jugova štafeta bila je i kvalitetnoga rada. Uz podršku vrsnoga as four national records: three cadet najmlađa na pobjedničkome postolju. trenera, kakav je trener PK Jug Frane titles, and more recently, this record at Lani su bili drugi, a u ovom sastavu Ćirak, podršku roditelja i okoline te 200 meters medley in the category of mogu nastupati i dogodine u istoj, ljubav prema plivanju koju Mario ima, Younger juniors.

72 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Young Dubrovnik swimmer Mario Šurković – state champion and record holder

The Jug Men’s Junior relay team the Šurković family. Mario›s father young Mario Šurković will surely climb achieved a major success in the Croatian Nikša is a former basketball player for onto the winner’s podium many more Championship by winning the title of the club Dubrovnik, and his father’s times, thereby bringing joy and pride national champions in the 4x200 meter sister Marijana was, like her nephew, not only his family but to the entire free style relay discipline. Mario swam a Jug swimmer – a multiple-time Jug Swimming Club and his native with his club colleagues Marko Baletin, national champion and record setter. Dubrovnik. Michel Brassard and Ðivo Damić. This She performed at the European Junior Jug relay team was their youngest ever Championships and the 2000 Sydney on the podium. The previous year they Olympics while only 16 years old, were second, and with these same team exactly the age Mario is now. members they can still compete next year in the same Junior category. They Mario Šurković’s swimming talent won Gold with the time of 7 minutes, may partly be a family heirloom, but 46 seconds and 41 hundredths. They such exceptional results are achieved, were faster that the Silver relay team above all, through dedicated work from Zagreb’s Mladost by more than and effort. Superior results always four seconds, and the third-ranked represent a combination of talent and Dubrava team came in almost seven hard work. With the support of a seconds behind. skilled trainer, Jug Swimming Club’s coach Frane Ćirak, the support of his During the Croatian State parents and community and the love Championship, Jug’s swimmers won of swimming that Mario has, every a total of 17 medals, including eight effort is guaranteed to be easier, and Gold, six Silver, and three Bronze, the path to the podium faster competing among a total of 310 and less painful. In his competitors from 34 clubs that took swimming career, part in the competition. Some of these swimmers also defended their Club’s colors as members of the National Team for their age group. In July 2019 Mario Šurković took part in the European Junior Swimming competition in the Russian city of Kazan. It was his debut at such a big competition. Shortly after his appearance in Russia, a national competition took place and Mario achieved great results. And he achieved them even earlier – it is worth pointing out that he was a triple Croatian Cadet Champion in 2017. These results are not surprising, as sports are in the blood of

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 73 74 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. ŠIPANSKI ROGAČ OBITELJI GORAVICA

Rogač carin

Napisala Maja Rilović Koprivica - zlatna mjera sa Šipana

pojnoj ljetnoj aromi rogačevo brašno. O povratku na more riječ za zrno rogača keration - i danas se mediteranske makije, danas više ne razmišlja, ljubav prema rabi za mjeru za zlato - jedna sjemenka Omaslinika, kadulje i zavičaju i stvaranju na zemlji prejaka je. rogača, jedan karat 0,18 grama zlata. smilja posebnu mirišljavu notu daju Obitelj Goravica danas je jedini Šipanski rogač zlatna je carska voćka. čokoladno smeđe mahune stabala uzgajivač rogača, ne samo na otoku, Na Šipanu je ovo stablo nekad bilo rogača. Rogač (Ceratonia siliqua) nego i na dubrovačkom području. osnovni izvor prihoda otočana, a onda samoniklo je drvo iz porodice mahunarki Objedinili su cjelovitu preradu rogača, godinama gotovo zaboravljena kultura. čiji plodovi, dvadesetak centimetara od sirovine do završnog proizvoda. Zahvaljujući Goravicama, koji su duga mahuna, koncem ljeta iz zelene Rogačevo brašno sa šipanskih obnovili svoja stara stabla i otkupljuju boje sazrijevaju u tamnosmeđu, duboko nasada sve je traženije u trgovinama rogač od 12 šipanskih obitelji, ova slatkog mirisa i okusa. Takvi mirisi zdrave prehrane jer se ekstrakt vrijedna biljka bogata kalcijem, šire se krajem ljeta na otoku Šipanu, rogača upotrebljava kao aroma u kalijem i fosforom je revitaliziana. gdje dozrijeva rogač carin - car među proizvodnji raskošne palete proizvoda, Brašno šipanskoga rogača carina tako rogačima. Šipanska obitelj Goravica «čokoladama», kolačima, namazima i je i proizvod otočkoga zajedništva, s ljubavlju se posvetila uzgoju ove pudinzima od rogača... Fino mljeveno jedinstvene veze koja povezuje prošle i jedinstvene, stare otočke sorte voćke brašno često se koristi kao zamjena za današnje generacije otočana u zajednicu, koja se u prehrani koristi još od biblijskih kakao i kavu, a u medicinskoj dijetetici pa odiše toplinom i živim retrookusom vremena. Šipanski ‘carin’, kako ga na preporuča se kao niskokalorična koji prenosi mirise ljetnoga šipanskog obali i drugim dubrovačkim otocima hrana. Njemački naziv za rogač polja do zimskih kuhinja u dalekim zovu ‘rogač šipanac’, izrazito je otporan “Johannisbrot” Ivanov kruh - podsjeća zemljama. na sušu, škrtu zemlju, niske temperature kako se njime, prema legendi, hranio i može živjeti stotinama godina. Ivan Krstitelj. - Rogač ima i tu kvalitetu Sve su to bili razlozi zašto se šipanski što njegov plod po branju može dugo kapetan Mato Goravica, nakog stajati bez da se - kaže Mato Goravica - dugogodišnje plovidbe oceanima, kvaliteta ploda promijeni. okrenuo uzgoju i preradi rogača na Bez obzira na veličinu i uvjete čuvanja rodnom otoku, starom obiteljskom sjemenke rogača uvijek imaju jednaku nasadu četrdeset stabala rogača. Uz masu od 0,18 grama. Zato su u antičko proizvodnju vina i maslinova ulja doba sjemenke rogača služile kao pokrenuo je pogon za preradu rogača u jedinica za mjeru vaganja zlata. Grčka

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 75 The Goravica Family’s Šipan Carob

Carob Carin – a gold measure from Šipan

by Maja Rilović Koprivica

mong the intoxicating summer in the Mediterranean diet since biblical to the sea, the love of homeland and aromas of Mediterranean olive times. The Šipan Carin, or Rogač Šipanac cultivating the soil is just too strong. Agroves, sage and immortelle, the as it is called on the coast and other chocolate brown pods of carob trees add Dubrovnik islands, is extremely resistant Today the Goravica family produces a special fragrant note. Carob (Ceratonia to drought, and can live for hundreds of carob not only on the island, but also siliqua) is a wild tree from the legume years in spite of inhospitable land or low in the wider Dubrovnik area. They family whose fruits, 20-centimeter temperatures. integrated the complete processing of long pods, mature at the end of the carob, from raw material to the final summer from green to a dark brown All of these were the reasons why the product. Carob flour from the Šipan color, with deep, sweet aroma and taste. Šipan captain Mato Goravica, after plantation is increasingly sought after Such fragrances spread at the end of many years of sailing the oceans, turned in health food stores because the carob summer on the island of Šipan, as the to carob cultivation and processing on extract is used as a natural sweetener in carob variety Carin matures, the king the family’s old plantation of 40 carob the production of a luxurious palette of among carobs. The Goravica family from trees on his native island. In addition to products – carob “chocolates”, cakes, Šipan has been lovingly devoted to the the production of wine and olive oil, he spreads and puddings. The finely ground cultivation of this unique, old, island started a processing plant for carob flour. flour is often used as a substitute for variety of fruit trees that have been used Today, he no longer thinks of returning cocoa and coffee, and is recommended

76 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Carob – a gold measure from Šipan

as a low calorie food. The German name The Šipan carob is a golden, imperial for carob, Johannisbrot or John’s bread, fruit tree. Once upon a time this tree was reminds us that, according to legend, a basic source of income for the islanders John the Baptist ate it. According to of Šipan, and then for many years it was Mato Goravica, once harvested, the carob an almost forgotten culture. Thanks to fruit can keep for a long time, with no the Goravica family, who have restored loss in quality. their old trees and are buying carob from 12 other Šipan families, this valuable Regardless of the size of the fruit and plant rich in calcium, potassium and storage conditions, carob seeds always phosphorous, has been revitalized. The have the same mass of 0.18 grams. For flour of the Šipan Carin carob thereby this reason in ancient times carob seeds represents a unique connection that links were used as a unit of measure for the past and the present generations of weighing gold. The Greek word for carob islanders into a community, and produces seeds, keration, is used to this day as a warmth and a living taste that carries the measure for gold – one carob seed, one scents of the summer fields of Šipan to carat 0.18 grams of gold. winter kitchens in distant countries.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 77 grm kapare, iako nikao i izrastao na negostoljubivom terenu, svake Cvjeta od jutra do predvečerja godine može dati do tri prelijevajući se poput zelenoga, kilograma plodova. S vrhova apara (Capparis spinosa) vodenoga slapa po liticama izloženim bogato razgranatih izbojaka – prinčipesa nježno bijelo- posolici, jakom suncu i kiši. Počesto su ove ljepotice goleti beru Kružičastih cvjetova kapare jedini znakovi života stoljetnih se neotvoreni mali pupoljci, apara poput orhideje, najljepši je ures mira odavno opustjelih otočkih domova. rjeđe plodovi zvani kaparuni južnodalmatinskog uzmorja. Samoniklo dozreli na kalcificiranom, siromašnom se ugnijezdila u bezbrojnim procjepima Kaparini dugi prašnici mamac su terenu. Koriste se usoljeni u salamuri, osunčanih i od vjetra zaklonjenih bezbrojnim pčelama i leptirima dok spremljeni u ulju ili ukiseljeni u octu. U omirina, u škrapama i suhozidima im sjemenke po zidovima raznose nekim zemljama u uporabi je i mlado ili raskošno ispružila po morem mravi i puževi, ukoliko se njima u lišće kapare koje se dodaje salatama. oplakivanim hridima jadranskih otoka. međuvremenu nisu osladili gušteri. Izdržljiva je dugogodišnja, suptropska Kao afrodizijak, začinska i ljekovita Kapara je oddavnina miljenica biljka osoljenog kamenjara iz porodice biljka poznata je još iz antičkog dalmatinske kuhinje. Njezina Capparidaceae. Grmovi, sjajnih mesnatih doba. Uporabu joj spominje i rimski antioksidantna, aromatična i ljekovita listova, životnog vijeka do četrdesetak K prirodoslovac, Vespasijanov prijatelj, svojstva pred puno stoljeća prepoznali godina, bez poteškoća joj preživljavaju Plinije Stariji. U kulinarstvu je najčešće su jadranski ribari obogaćujući njome duga, suha ljeta i visoke temperature. koriste mediteranske zemlje. Jedan salate od hobotnice i razne mesne i

78 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. The Caper – a wild princess among plants Napisala / by Aida Cvjetković

riblje umake. U zadnje vrijeme sve je up to forty years, can survive long, harvested, and less often the fruits called cjenjenija i u drugim krajevima Svijeta. dry summers and high temperatures capparuni ripened on calcified, meager Iako su mnogi pokušali, samo rijetki without difficulty. It blooms from terrain. They are used in brine, stored uspjeli su je uzgojiti. Najraskošnija je i morning to evening, pouring like a in oil or pickled in vinegar. In some najljepša samonikla u svom kamenom green waterfall over the cliffs exposed to countries young leaves of capers are also okruženju. salt, bright sunlight and rain. Capers are added to salads. quite often the only signs of life on the centuries-old walls of long abandoned Capers have been a favorite of island homes. Dalmatian cuisine since ancient times. Its antioxidant, aromatic and healing properties have been recognized by Adriatic fishermen for many centuries, who used it to enrich octopus salads and

– jadranska orhideja

various meat and fish sauces. Lately, it The caper’s long stamens attract is becoming more appreciated in other countless bees and butterflies, while ants parts of the world. and snails carry their seeds on the walls, unless they have been savored by lizards Although many have tried, only few aparaith its gentle white-pink in the meantime. have managed to grow it. It is at its flowers like orchids, the most luxurious and beautiful as a wild Wcaper (capparis spinosa) Since ancient times, the caper has been plant in its stone environment. is a princess among wild plants the known as an aphrodisiac, spice and most beautiful decoration of the South medicinal herb. Its use is also mentioned Dalmatian coast. Growing in the wild, by Roman naturalist, Vespasian’s friend, it nestles in countless sunlit crevices Pliny the Elder. In the culinary arts it sheltered from the winds in stonewall is most often used in Mediterranean ruins, in the cracks and drywalls or it countries. One shrub of capers, although spreads lavishly over the sea-bathed sprung and growing on inhospitable rocks of the Adriatic islands. It is a terrain, each year can yield up to three K perennial, subtropical plant from the kilograms of fruit. From the tops of the Capparidaceae family. Bushes, with richly branched shoots of this beauty of shiny fleshy leaves and a life span of barren land, unopened small buds are

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 79 Renesansni - jedinstveni doživljaj dubrovačkog ladanja vrt

80 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Renesansni

ubrovački ljetnikovci Nekadašnji čarobni okoliš Rijeke predstavljaju jedinstveni dubrovačke poslužio je kao inspiracija Dprimjer ladanjske projektu Renesansni vrt. Temeljen na arhitekture i urbanog promišljanja, interpretaciji kulturne baštine, ovaj vrt ali i mjesto okupljanja i umjetničkog projekt, kojeg osmišljava umjetnička stvaralaštva. Dvjestotinjak ljetnikovaca udruga Sve ostalo je glazba u suradnji rasprostranjenih po cijelom s Dubrovačkom baštinom d.o.o. i uz dubrovačkom teritoriju utjelovljuju potporu Zaklade Caboga Stiftung, izvodi ideju stapanja renesansnog čovjeka s se u obnovljenom ljetnikovcu Bunić- prirodom. Grade se od 14. stoljeća, Kaboga, reprezentativnom primjerku najprije u neposrednoj okolici Grada, dubrovačke ladanjske arhitekture iz 16. a potom i na udaljenijim dijelovima stoljeća, kojeg su podizale generacije izvangradskog teritorija Dubrovačke dubrovačkoga plemstva. Tematski Republike. Najveći broj ljetnikovaca koncipiran glazbeni program „uokviren“ izgrađen je tijekom 15. i 16. stoljeća. je multimedijom, a kostimiranim Dubrovački je teritorij tada bio vodstvom na inovativan način posjetitelje zaokružen, vještom diplomatskom uvodi u ugođaj dubrovačkog ladanja, politikom osigurane njegove granice, a polazeći od mitskog. Rijeka Ombla u život u izvangradskom prostoru postao antičkim je vremenima nosila ime Arion, je spokojan. po mitskome sviraču kojeg su spasile Zbog prirodnog fenomena miješanja nimfe. Po narodnoj predaji, u Rijeci slane i slatke vode , Rijeka dubrovačka dubrovačkoj su se noću ukazivale šumske (Ombla) zbog svojih je specifičnosti vile koje su se danju skrivale u vilinskim zaštićeni prostor. Uz njezine se obale špiljama. Uz kulturno-umjetnički nalazilo tridesetak ljetnikovaca sadržaj, ovaj jednosatni program je dubrovačke vlastele. Mjesto ladanja, ali popraćen i prigodnim osvježenjem u i zemljoradnje. O potrebi za bijegom skladu s povijesnim gastronomskim iz bučna i prenapučena grada svjedoče nasljeđem. i natpisi na ljetnikovcima: „Griješi tko Stoga je posjet ljetnikovcu i izvedbi misli da sretno živi u gradu. Neka dođe Renesansnog vrta jedinstven doživljaj ovamo, ovo će mu mjesto pružiti prave i idealan bijeg od gradskih gužvi, u užitke.“ drugačiji ambijent i ladanjski ugođaj, u kakvome su nekada uživala i dubrovačka vlastela.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 81 Renaissance Garden A unique experience of the

Dubrovnik countryside

ubrovnik summer residencies 15th and 16th centuries. Dubrovnik’s summer residences testifies to the need or villas are unique examples territory was then determined, its to escape from the noise and crowds of Dof country architecture with borders secured by a skilled diplomatic the city: “Mistaken is he who thinks an urban reflection, as well as a place policy, and life outside the city area he lives happily in the city. Let him for gathering and artistic creativity. became serene. come here, this place will give him real The 200 or so villas spread throughout pleasures.” the Dubrovnik area embody the idea Along the shores of the Ombla River of merging the Renaissance Man with were about thirty summer residences of The magical environment of the nature. They were built from the 14th the Dubrovnik nobility. Thanks to the Dubrovnik Riviera served as inspiration century on, first in the immediate natural phenomenon of the mixing of for the Renaissance Garden project. vicinity of the city, and then in the salt and freshwater, this area, the Rijeka Based on the interpretation of cultural more distant parts of the territory of dubrovačka is a naturally protected area. heritage, this project, designed by the the Dubrovnik Republic. The largest This was a place of leisure as well as All the Rest is Music art association, number of villas was built during the farming. An inscription on one of the in cooperation with the company

82 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Dubrovnik Heritage, and supported the name Arion, after the mythical ambiance and rural atmosphere, in by the Caboga Stiftung Foundation, is player rescued by the nymphs. which Dubrovnik aristocracy once located in the renovated Bunić-Kaboga According to local folklore, forest enjoyed themselves. Villa, a representative archetype of fairies appeared at night in the Dubrovnik’s 16th century country Dubrovnik River area and hid in fairy architecture that generations of caves during the day. In addition to Dubrovnik nobility built over time. A the cultural and artistic content, this thematically conceived music program one-hour program is accompanied by is ‘framed’ by multimedia, and the appropriate refreshments, in accordance costumed guides introduce visitors with the historic culinary heritage. to the atmosphere of Dubrovnik’s A visit to the villa and the performance leisurely countryside in an innovative of the Renaissance Garden is therefore way, beginning from the mythical. In a unique experience and an ideal escape ancient times, the Ombla River bore from the city crowds, to a different

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 83 ŠtrudelŠtrudelodod dunjedunje

84 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. GASTRO KUTAK Napisala Jadranka Ničetić Foto Katija Živković

- mirisnog jesenskog ploda iz dubrovačkih vrtova

unja od davnina uspijeva u i ukusan prilog za pečenje. Iz bogate tanjurima, krasio je dubrovačke trpeze. dubrovačkome kraju gdje je jesenske košarice uvijek su izdvajali Taj starinski kolač i danas volimo Dnazivaju mrkatunja. Serafin dunje koje bi odložili na ormare. U spravljati na tradicionalan način. Za Razzi u 16. stoljeću zabilježio je njezin hladnim prostorijama čuvali su ih do takav kolač potrebno je napraviti obilan rast na otoku Lastovu. Dunja dugo u zimu. Posložene jedna pored domaće tijesto, ali ako niste vješti u je opjevano voće pa Ignjat Ðurđević druge skrivale su toplinu ljeta u svojoj spravljanju takvoga tijesta slobodno pjeva kako pastir voljenoj pastirici u nutrini. Domaćice su od njih spravljale kupite gotove kore za štrudel. Miris jesen dariva dunju. U pučkoj pjesmi sa štrudel od dunja, omiljenu slasticu pečenog kolača vratiti će vas u topla Šipana dragi dragoj je u vrtu slomio „tri jesenjskih blagdana. Štrudel jednako sjećanja djetinjstva. dunje nezdrele“. Simbolizirala je ljubav, izrezan, poslužen na porculanskim sreću, plodnost, ljepotu i neprolaznost. Stablo i plod bili su oddavnina ures dubrovačkoga vrta, pirno voće koje se poklanja voljenima. Od dunje se radila povijesna slastica kotonjata. Ponekad Strudel od Dunja kao znak obilja, a ponekad kao spas od Tijesto: 50 dkg brašna, 6 velikih ožica ulja, malo soli, 1 ožica vinskog osta, mlake vode po potrebi cca 2 dcl. siromaštva. Josip Bersa u Dubrovačkim slikama i prilikama govori o Deši Nadjev: Sorkočević koja nakon pada Republike 700-800g. naribanih dunja, sok jednog limuna, mala ožica cimeta, 4 ožice marmalade od dunja, živi u siromaštvu, preživljavala je od 4 ožice šećera, 3 ožice krušnih mrvica, 7 ožica krupnije sjeckanih mjendela. sitnih poslova između ostalog praveći Za poprskati kore: 125 g otopljenoga masla. kotonjatu od dunja. Uz mnoge druge voćke Dubrovčani su Postupak je puna tri stoljeća poklanjali bosansko- Od navedenih sastojaka zamijesiti glatko tijesto koje se ne smije lijepiti za prste. Tijesto staviti u hercegovačkim uglednicima. Austrijskog zdjelicu premazanu uljem, vrh tijesta isto tako premazati uljem. Poklopiti i ostaviti na toplom 30 cara Franja Josipa I. 1875. godine, min da počiva. Za to vrijeme načinite nadjev. počastili su kotonjatom i Malvasijom Dunje oguliti, naribati na gratatež, odmah ih preliti sokom od limuna kako ne bi pocrnjele. U dunje kad se zaustavio u Trstenome kako dodati šećer, marmeladu, cimet i dobro promiješati. U drugoj posudi pripremiti ostale sastojke, bi predahnuo od duga puta. Mnogi mjendule krupnije nasjeckati i izmiješati s krušnim mrvicama. dubrovački pisci, među njima Gundulić i Vojnović, spominju je u svojim djelima. Nakon što je tijesto odležalo, potrebno je na stol staviti stolnjak i po njemu posuti tanki sloj Bila je voće za bolesnike na brodovima brašna. Tijesto lagano razvaljati trljicom i onda prebaciti na stolnjak, nakon toga polako vući Dubrovačke Republike. krajeve tijesta i rastezati ga sa svih strana. Polako razvlačiti tijesto dok se ne razvuče po cijeloj površini stola, na taj način će se utanjiti. Tijekom tog postupka tijesto ne smije puknuti. Razvučeno Jesen je doba zadnjih toplih sunčevih tijesto treba poprskati otopljenim maslom, najlakše je to uraditi uz pomoć kulinarskoga kista, a zraka, kad priroda daruje obiljem voća. potom se po cijelome tijestu rasporedi nadjev od dunja, a po njemu pospu sjeckani mjenduli i U dubrovačkim selima beru se dunje i krušne mrvice. Jednu stranu stolnjaka polako podizati i tako podižući zarolati tijesto. Dobiveni od njih se spravljaju razne slastice, ali štrudel izrezati u štruce i posložiti u rostjere. Peći 35-40min. na 180C. Pečeni kolač ohladiti, a po želji se može posuti šećerom u prahu. 2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 85 GASTRO CORNER

By Jadranka Ničetić

Photo Katija Živković

- made from the fragrant autumn fruit of Dubrovnik’s gardens rom antiquity, quince has Quincecut in equal pieces and served on not skilled in making such dough, thrived in the Dubrovnik region porcelain plates, adorned Dubrovnik’sstrudel feel free to buy ready-made strudel where it is called mrkatunja. A dining tables. To this day, we like to foils. The smell of the baked strudel F th chronicler of the 16 century Dubrovnik make this antique cake in the traditional will bring back the warm memories of Republic, Serafino Razzi recorded its way. For this strudel it is necessary to childhood. abundant growth on the island of make homemade dough, but if you are Lastovo. Poets praised quince as the fruit that a shepherd gives to his beloved shepherdess in autumn. In a folk song from Šipan Island, the sweetheart picked “three unripe quince” in the garden for his beloved. Quince symbolized love, happiness, fertility, beauty and Quince Strudel intransience. Since ancient times, Dough: the tree and its fruit decorated the 500 grams flour, 6 large tablespoons of oil, a bit of salt, 1 tablespoon of wine vinegar, lukewarm Dubrovnik garden, a festive fruit that water as needed (approximately 20 ml.) was given to loved ones. Kotonjata, a traditional dessert, was made of quince. Sometimes as a sign of abundance, and Filling: sometimes as salvation from poverty. 700-800 grams of grated quince, the juice of one lemon, one teaspoon of cinnamon, 4 tablespoons of quince marmalade, 4 tablespoons of sugar, 3 tablespoons of breadcrumbs, 7 For three full centuries people from tablespoons of coarsely chopped almonds. Dubrovnik gave quince and other fruits as gifts to Bosnian-Herzegovinian dignitaries. In 1875 the Austrian To brush over the top of the strudel: 125 grams melted butter. Emperor Francis Joseph I was proudly served kotonjata and Malvasia wine when Procedure he took a respite from a long journey From the above ingredients, knead a smooth dough that should not stick to the fingers. Place the in Trsteno near Dubrovnik. Many dough into a bowl coated with oil and brush the top of the dough with oil. Cover and let rest in a Dubrovnik writers mention quince in their works. It was a fruit given to sick warm place for 30 minutes. During this time, make the filling. patients on the ships of the Dubrovnik Republic. Peel the quinces, grate them and immediately pour the lemon juice over the grated quince so Autumn is the season of the last that it does not turn dark. Add the sugar, marmalade and cinnamon to the grated quince and stir warm sun rays, when nature bestows well. In another dish, prepare the rest of the ingredients and mix the coarsely chopped almonds the abundance of fruit. Quinces are harvested in Dubrovnik villages and are with the breadcrumbs. made into a variety of sweets, as well as a tasty side dish for roasts. Quince was After the dough has rested, put a tablecloth on the table and sprinkle a thin layer of flour over it. always taken from the rich fall harvest Gently roll out the dough with a rolling pin and then transfer it to the tablecloth. Slowly pull out basket and placed atop cupboards. In the ends of the dough and stretch it from all sides. Slowly roll out the dough until it stretches over cold rooms they kept long into the the entire surface of the table, so that it is thin. During this procedure the dough must not break. winter. Stacked next to each other, they concealed within themselves the warmth The stretched dough should be coated with melted butter; this is accomplished best with the help of the summer. Women used them to of a culinary brush. The quince filling is then arranged all over the dough and sprinkled with the make quince strudel, a favorite dessert chopped almonds and breadcrumbs. Slowly lifting one side of the tablecloth, begin rolling the of the autumn festivities. The strudel, dough. Cut the strudel roll into loaves and arrange on baking sheets. Bake 35 to 40 minutes at 180 C. Let the baked strudel cool and dust with powdered sugar, as desired. 86 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. By Jadranka Ničetić DOGAĐANJA U

Photo Katija Živković DUBROVNIKU 2O2O. 23. SIJEČNJA – 2. VELJAČE FESTA DUBROVNIK

Humanitarna zabavno – glazbena Quince manifestacija već se dugi niz godina strudel održava koncem siječnja, uz tradicionalnu dubrovačku zimsku proslavu – Festu sv.Vlaha i Dan Grada Dubrovnika. Zabavno glazbeni program redovito je sačinjen od ponajboljih hrvatskih izvođača, uz likovne izložbe, radionice i kušaonice regionalinih vina. Festa za krajnji cilj ima humanitarnu namjenu pomoći najpotrebnijima i obnovi crkve sv.Vlaha.

2.- 9. VELJAČE FESTA SV.VLAHA www.dubrovnik.hr

Sveti Vlaho jest baština Svijeta, zaštićena nematerijalna baština UNESCo-a od 2009. , jedinstvena festa koja se već 1047 godina slavi na jednak način, katoličkim obredima i veličanstvenom procesijom ulicama stare gradske jezgre , ali i nizom zanimljivih događanja, jer je blagdan sveca kojeg štujemo od relikvije do trpeze , ujedno i Dan Grada Dubrovnika, koji za sve njegove građane ima vrlo posebno značenje, a vizualnom atraktivnošću i snagom kulta sveca zaštitnika plijeni pozornost posjetitelja.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 87 20. VELJAČE – 25.VELJAČE 24. do 26. TRAVNJA 24. – 26. TRAVNJA DUBROVAČKI KARNEVO DUBROVNIK FESTIWINE DUBROVAČKI www.tzdubrovnik.hr http://www.dubrovnikfestiwine.com POLUMARATON http://www.du-motion.com

Dubrovački karnevo glavninom svog Regionalni vinski festival Dubrovnik Festi programa posvećen je djeci i mladima, Wine, koji će se u travnju održati po Atraktivnost ovog sportskog događaja ali tradicija feste na posljednji dan šesti put u Dubrovniku , nudi mogućnost temeljena je na činjenici da je Dubrovnik poklada i maškarane zabave na kojoj se s kušanja lokalnih vina, upoznavanje punine – grad domaćin dio UNESCO –a svjetske nestrpljenjem iščekuju okusa crnih i bijelih vina uzgojenih na zaštićene kulturne baštine, smješten na samostalne i grupne maske, koje se bave suncem i solju okupanim padinama terenu vrlo atraktivnom za maratonsko temama aktualnih političkih i društvenih Pelješca i plodnom tlu konavoskog trčanje, a posebno što će se 2K događanja, održala vinogorja. Festival će okupiti više od (dvokilometarska ) utrka s ograničenim se do danas, pa je svi s nestrpljenjem 100 regionalnih vinara koji će imati brojem sudionika održati na dubrovačkim očekuju..... Na Dubrovačkom karnevalu mogućnost svoja vina predstaviti brojnim Zidinama, najznačajnijoj dubrovačkoj najatraktivnije maske bit će nagrađene vinskim profesionalcima i posjetiteljima. atrakciji. bogatim fondom nagrada, jer će Uspješnost vinara ocjenjivat će Ruta polumaratona duga je 21.1 km, kreće Ocjenjivački sud na svakoj od maškarata međunarodni ocjenjivački sud. Kroz s Ploča, prolazi područjem od Pila do birati najbolje! stručne radionice, pod nazivom Vino u Kantafiga s okretom pokraj ACI marine u turizmu, naši i inozemni stručnjaci prenijet Komolcu i ciljem na najljepšem mogućem će svoja znanja i iskustva u cilju što mjestu – na Stradunu. S motom „Više od 17.TRAVNJ A– 2.LIPNJA uspješnijeg uključivanja vina u turističku i utrke“ ovo događanje, kako je zamišljeno, DUBROVAČKO GLAZBENO ugostiteljsku ponudu. bit će više od samog sportskog događanja, PROLJEĆE putem trčanja promovirat će se zdravi http://web.dso.hr/hr/ stil života, sve u “zagrljalju” povijesnih 17. do 19. TRAVNJA spomenika, uz klapsku pjesmu i blagoslov AKLAPELA –SMOTRA KLAPA sveca zaštitnika Dubrovnika – sv.Vlaha – www.aklapela.hr kao elemenata zaštićene nematerijalne baštine u okrilju UNESCO–a.

5. – 12. LIPNJA Ciklus barokne glazbe Dubrovačko glazbeno proljeće Dubrovački ORLANDO FURIOSO simfonijski orkestar prvi je put organizirao http://web.dso.hr/hr/ 2017. godine. Radi se o ciklusu koncerata klasične glazbe koji se i ove godine Aklapela je godišnja smotra najvrjednijih održavaju od 17. travnja do 2. lipnja, s klapskih ostvarenja kroz održavanje ciljem obogaćivanja kulturne ponude nekoliko komornih Grada Dubrovnika. koncerata odabranih hrvatskih muških i ženskih klapa. Namjera je omogućavanje koncertnih izvedbi na način istovjetan ili blizak izvornom načinu stvaranja i izvođenja Orlando Furioso u organizaciji tradicionalne hrvatske klapske pjesme. Dubrovačkog simfonijskog orkestra održavat će se od 5. do 12. lipnja 2019. u Dubrovniku. Riječ je o ciklusu barokne glazbe.

88 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. LIPANJ 20. LIPNJA – 6. SRPNJA 10. SRPNJA – 25. KOLOVOZ A LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU MIDSUMMER SCENE 71. DUBROVAČKE LJETNE THEATRE http://midsummer-scene.com/ IGRE www.lepetitfestival.com www.dubrovnik-festival.hr

Midsummer Scene je etablirani festival Dubrovačke ljetne igre i ove će godine teatra na engleskom jeziku koji, koristeći okupiti ponajbolje dramske, glazbene, jednu od najljepših ambijetalnih baletne, folklorne, likovne i filmske Le Petit Festival du Theatre je poseban i pozornica - dubrovačku tvrđavu Lovrjenac umjetnike iz cijelog Svijeta. Zasnovane na prepoznatljiv kulturni događaj na kojem se , uprizoruje internacionalnoj javnosti bogatoj i živoj baštini Grada Dubrovnika, predstavljaju umjetnici i umjetnički talenti poznate Shakespearove drame, realizirane Igre 70. godinu za redom, u razdoblju od 10. iz cijeloga Svijeta. Le Petit Festival svake kroz suradnju engleskih i hrvatskih srpnja do 25. Kolovoza, postaju sjecište godine podiže zastor otkrivajući kreacije kazališnih umjetnika. hrvatskoga i svjetskoga duha i kulture. pažljivo izabranih i talentiranih umjetnika bilo da su oni pjesnici, glumci, plesači ili 28. LIPNJA – 5. SRPNJA KOLOVOZ nešto sasvim drugo, te je proteklih godina „MEĐUNARODNI FESTIVAL LJETNA ŠKOLA FILMA ŠIPAN u sklopu ovog Festivala u Dubrovniku OPERNIH ARIJA – TINO http://sipan-film.com/ sudjelovalo stotinjak umjetnika iz cijeloga PATTIERA“ Svijeta. http://web.dso.hr/hr/ Festival nosi ime i organizira se u znak 21. LIPANJ sjećanja na svjetski poznatog opernog GLAZBENO – SCENSKI pjevača, tenora Tina Pattieru, veliko FESTIVAL “ANA U GRADU” i slavno ime europskih i svjetskih opernih kuća prve polovice 20. stoljeća. Na Festivalu, koji ponovno donosi Dubrovniku velike svjetske arije, izvode Na otoku Šipanu svakog ljeta održava se djela najznačajnijih opernih autora uz se ljetna filmska škola i filmski festival gostovanja znanih međunarodnih opernih pod nazivom Ljetna škola filma Šipan. zvijezda. Manifestacija ima međunarodni karakter budući da filmovi, sudionici u programu i Kratki festival Ana u Gradu predstavlja 1. SRPNJA – 31. KOLOVOZA gosti Festivala stižu iz Njemačke, Hrvatske, mladu umjetnicu, vrsnu violončelisticu LJETO NA ELAFITIMA, U Bosne i Hercegovine, Slovenije i Velike prepoznatljivog glazbenog stila Anu ZATONU I ORAŠCU Britanije. Pod pokroviteljstvom Grada Rucner u dvojakoj ulozi klasične www.tzdubrovnik.hr Dubrovnika, filmski festival održava se u glazbenice i crossover instrumentalistice. U organizaciji Grada Dubrovnika i Šipanskoj Luci sredinom kolovoza, a na Fantastičan koncert u praskozorje prvog Turističke zajednice grada Dubrovnika, njemu se prikazuje desetak odabranih dana ljeta i Svjetskog dana glazbe na elafitskim otocima, u Zatonu i Orašcu filmskih naslova. Ljetna Škola filma Šipan 21.lipnja izniman je umjetnički događaj i upriličit će se, kao i već dugi niz godina u obzir uzima specifičnu situaciju jednog jedinstven doživljaj izlaska sunca na vrhu dosada, zabavno-glazbeni programi s dalmatinskog otoka. Zimi zatvorena sredina, brda Srđ. ciljem obogaćivanja turističke ponude. Za u ljetnim mjesecima kroz kino komunicira tradicionalnih pučkih festa i blagdana na s cijelim Svijetom. Školarci sa Šipana Koločepu, Lopudu i Šipanu, kao i u Zatonu stvaraju zajedno s vršnjacima iz Meksika, i Orašcu osmišljeno je tridesetak priredbi Engleske, Francuske, Njemačke, Slovenije, za dobru zabavu i ugodnu atmosferu. Bosne i Hercegovine, SAD-a, Italije, Brazila, Finske. Za domaću pozornost ovog projekta proteklih godina pobrinula su se zvučna imena gostiju i predavača iz samog vrha hrvatske i regijske kinematografije.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 89 26. KOLOVOZ A – 18. RUJNA 6.- 30. LISTOPADA ADVENT U GRADU 6. MEĐUNARODNI JESENJI GLAZBENI MOSKAR GLAZBENI FESTIVAL http://web.dso.hr/hr/ DUBROVNIK U POZNO Jesenski koncerti Dubrovačkog LJETO simfonijskog orkestra obuhvaćeni su http://web.dso.hr/hr/ novim festivalom - Jesenjim glazbenim moskarom. Festival, upravo kako mu ime i govori, nosi pravu lepezu raznolikih glazbenih događanja. Paljenjem Božićne rasvjete i prve adventske svijeće, započinje program 19. do 25. LISTOPADA Dubrovačkog zimskog festivala - Advent GOOD FOOD FESTIVAL 2020 u Gradu. Jedinstvenost Dubrovnika www.tzdubrovnik.hr vidljiva je i u mjesecu darivanja. Probajte i vi zapjevati tradicionalnu dubrovačku Festival koji će trajati do polovice rujna, kolendu, kojom se od davnina u u pozno dubrovačko ljeto, pokrenuo je Dubrovniku na Badnji dan i na Staru Dubrovački simfonijski orkestar kako bi godinu čestita i želi radosne blagdane! glazbeno – kulturna živost u UNESCO-vom Dubrovniku bila prisutna i nakon završetka Dubrovačkih ljetnih igara. Dubrovački DOČEK NOVE GODINE simfonijski orkestar, devedesetogodišnji vitalni nositelj dubrovačke glazbene Niz novosti i zanimljivih programa scene, prestižna imena europske glazbe, gastronomskog predznaka sadržano najbolja ostvarenja slavnih skladatelja u je u jedinstvenom projektu TZ Grada očaravajućem ambijentu Kneževa dvora, Dubrovnika, koji je u jesenskom listopadu prava su poslastica za ljubitelje glazbene donio iznimnu dopunu ponude za turiste umjetnosti. i goste grada, ali postao omiljen i među stanovništvom. U svom novom izdanju 22. RUJNA do 02. LISTOPADA Good Food Festival donosi prezentacije Brojni posjetitelji Dubrovnika STRADUN CLASSIC kulinarskih specijaliteta tipičnih za naše dočekat će Novu 2020. godinu uz http://web.dso.hr/hr/ podneblje, edukativne programe za djecu, spektakularan glazbeni program, Marija Pavlović, Artist in residence kušanje regionalnih vina, kulinarske koji započinje već u jutarnjim satima radionice, te događanja poput Večere s Stare godine. Novogodišnji program LISTOPAD poznatim chefom, radionice pripremanja obuhvaća raznovrsni zabavni trodnevni DUBROVNIK TRIATHLON dubrovačkih gulozeca, posebne menie u program, u kojem će svatko naći nešto https://earthseafire.eu/hr/ignite-your- dubrovačkim restoranima, „Eat&Walk“ zanimljivo. Nova godina će započeti već inner-fire/ gastro ture i druga iznenadjenja. tradicionalnim svečanim koncertom Dubrovačkog simfonijskog orkestra uz PROSINAC – SIJEČANJ 2021. kamenice i pjenušac prvog dana nove DUBROVAČKI ZIMSKI godine u podne. FESTIVAL Jedinstvena mjesta svjetske kulturne baštine poput Peskarije, Pila i Lazareta će živnuti u novom ruhu EARTH, SEA & FIRE je triatlon koji se okićena blagdanskom rasvjetom. održava u Dubrovniku, gradu koji je Dovedite djecu na klizalište ili na uvršten na popis UNESCO-ve svjetske predstavu „Božićna bajka“, zagrijte se kulturne baštine i danas je jedna od kuhanim vinom, uživajte u priklama najpopularnijih svjetskih turističkih (fritulama) ispred Katedrale ili zaplešite destinacija. pod šatorom pored Orlandova stupa. Zabavite se u Kazalištu, posjetite galerije i muzeje, naučite kako se rade tradicijske dubrovačke slatke delicije.

90 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. 2O2O DUBROVNIK EVENTS

23 JANUARY– 2 FEBRUARY 17 APRIL – 2 JUNE The Aklapela festival of the best Croatian DUBROVNIK FESTA 2020 DUBROVNIK MUSICAL vocal groups presents traditional a This multi-day event traditionally opens SPRING cappella singing groups. The festival the official program of celebrations www.dso.hr is named by a pun of the words klapa around the holiday of St. Blaise and the Dubrovnik Musical Spring is a new event and a cappella. Unlike other numerous Day of the City of Dubrovnik. organized by the Dubrovnik Symphony established music festival in Dubrovnik, Orchestra. This is a cycle of classical music Aklapela is an entirely traditional 2 – 9 FEBRUARY 2020 concerts that will be held from 17 April musical event and, with visionary artistic FESTIVITY OF ST. BLAISE to 2 June 2020, designed to enrich the leadership, has the potential to become a www.dubrovnik.hr cultural offer of Dubrovnik. benchmark of Croatian ethno-music.

24 - 26 APRIL 2020 24 - 26 APRIL DUBROVNIK FESTIWINE DUBROVNIK HALF http://www.dubrovnikfestiwine.com MARATHON http://www.du-motion.com

Ever since the year 972, the feast day of St Blaise, Dubrovnik’s patron saint, has been a very special festival, typical of Dubrovnik. A series of sacred and secular concerts, exhibitions, book presentations Tourism in Dubrovnik and Dubrovnik- The attraction of this new sporting event and theatre performances are dedicated Neretva County provides a tremendous is based on the fact that Dubrovnik, the to the patron saint of Dubrovnik, whose privilege and opportunity to local host city, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. statues peer down from the city walls winemakers. It brings thousands of The terrain is very attractive for marathon and gates, and whose caring hand guards curious visitors to their cellars each year, running, especially 2K (two-kilometer) Dubrovnik on his palm. and many of them are knowledgeable race with a limited number of participants about wine. The central event of the held along Dubrovnik city walls, 20 – 25 FEBRUARY project “Wine Tourist Network – WiNe“ Dubrovnik’s most important attraction. DUBROVNIK CARNIVAL is a regional wine festival – Dubrovnik The half marathon route is 21.1 km long, starts at Ploče, passes 2020 FestiWiNe which will be held in Dubrovnik through the Pile gate to Gruž, with a turn www.tzdubrovnik.hr again in April. The festival gathers near the Marina Komolac and ends in more than 100 regional winemakers to the best possible spot – Stradun. With present their wines to numerous wine the motto “More than a race” this new professionals and visitors. High quality event will be more than just a sporting domestic wines of authentic varieties event; healthy lifestyles will be promoted represent a powerful, underutilized through running, all within the embrace competitive advantage of this area. of Dubrovnik’s historical monuments, with klapa songs and the blessings of 17 – 19 APRIL Dubrovnik’s patron Saint Blaise, protected Our ancestors also had fun, and so AKLAPELA elements of intangible heritage. should we... this proverb can be heard (Dalmatian song festival) in Dubrovnik in February during carnival www.aklapela.hr 5 – 12 JUNE time when everything is allowed, when Cycle of baroque music people become someone else or show ORLANDO FURIOSO their true faces. Experience the special http://web.dso.hr/hr/ atmosphere of Dubrovnik carnival Orlando Furioso, a cycle of baroque music festivities characterized by jokes, laughter, organized by the Dubrovnik Symphony merriment, joy, satire... feel the special Orchestra, will be held from 5 to 12 June spirit of the city at carnival time! 2020 in Dubrovnik.

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 91 JUNE 28 JUNE - 5 JULY The Dubrovnik Summer Festival is LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU INTERNATIONAL OPERA undoubtedly the largest and most THEATRE ARIAS FESTIVAL “TINO important cultural event, not only in www.lepetitfestival.com PATTIERA“ Dubrovnik, but in all of Croatia. It has This is a small festival, but a special and http://web.dso.hr/hr/ been held every year from 10 July to 25 distinctive cultural event featuring artistic August since 1950. talents from around the world. Le Petit Theatre du Festival every year raises the curtain revealing creations from carefully selected and talented artists, poets, actors, dancers and performers.

21 JUNE MUSIC SCENE FESTIVAL The festival is named after and organized “ANA IN TOWN” in the memory of the world-famous tenor AUGUST Tino Pattiera, one of the major singers ŠIPAN SUMMER FILM at the opera houses both in Europe and SCHOOL worldwide in the first half of the 20th http://sipan-film.com/ century. The International Operatic Aria Each summer on the island of Šipan the Festival Hommage Tino Pattiera was summer film school and film festival founded as is held. The event has an international a permanent operatic event in our character since the films, participants in city, to complete the operatic milieu the program, and festival guests come The festival Ana in Town celebrates a of Dubrovnik, and to present the most from Germany, Croatia, Bosnia and young artist, a cellist with a recognizable beautiful opera arias of the greatest Herzegovina, Slovenia, and the United musical style, Ana Rucner in a double composers to its audiences. Kingdom. Under the auspices of the City role as classical musician and crossover of Dubrovnik, the film festival lasts from instrumentalist. A fantastic concert at 1 JULY –31 AUGUST August 4th to 14th, and ten selected films the dawn of the first day of summer SUMMER EVENTS PROGRAM are shown. School children from Šipan and World Music Day on June 21st is an AROUND DUBROVNIK have the opportunity to be creative exceptional artistic event. Enjoy a unique REGION together with their peers from Europe view and experience of sunrise at the top www.tzdubrovnik.hr and the around the world. of the Srđ Mountain. For many years the City of Dubrovnik and Dubrovnik Tourist Board have been 26 AUGUST – 18 SEPTEMBER 20 JUNE – 6 JULY organizing music and entertainment MUSIC FESTIVAL – MIDSUMMER SCENE programs on the Elafiti islands, and in DUBROVNIK IN LATE http://midsummer-scene.com/ Zaton and Orašac to introduce tourists to SUMMER the Mediterranean melody, folklore and www.dso.hr folk traditions that have been cherished for ages. Through special programs with traditional folk festivities and holidays, guests will be able to enjoy some 30 performances this summer such as: Dalmatian vocal group concerts, folklore performances, classical music concerts and performances by Croatian music Midsummer Scene is an established entertainers which will be held on the The end of August and almost all of theatre festival held in English, performed islands of Koločep, Lopud, and Šipan, and September in Dubrovnik are reserved for in one of the most beautiful settings in the towns of Zaton and Orašac. great classical music concerts. For the – Dubrovnik’s St. Lawrence Fortress – seventh year the Dubrovnik Symphony which is the stage for Shakespeare’s most 10 JULY–25 AUGUST Orchestra will organize the International well-known dramas, realized through 71st DUBROVNIK SUMMER Late Summer Music Festival Dubrovnik, the cooperation of British and Croatian FESTIVAL which brings internationally acclaimed theatre artists. www.dubrovnik-festival.hr artists to town. The music director of the festival is Austrian conductor Christoph

92 Dobro došli u Dubrovnik 2020. Campestrini and this year the festival tastings of regional wines, culinary NEW YEAR’S EVE takes place from 26 August until 18 workshops, and events such as ̋Dinner Dubrovnik’s many visitors will ring in September 2020. with a famous chef ̋, workshops on New Year’s 2021 while entertained by preparing Dubrovnik delicacies, special a spectacular music programme which 22 SEPTEMBER – 2 OCTOBER menus in Dubrovnik restaurants, an ̋Eat will already begin in the morning hours STRADUN CLASSIC & Walk ̋ culinary tour, as well as other of December 31st, New Year’s Eve. The http://web.dso.hr/hr/ surprises. New Year’s program includes a diverse, Marija Pavlović, Artist in residence entertaining three-day program, in which DECEMBER – JANUARY 2021 everyone will find OCTOBER 2020 DUBROVNIK WINTER something interesting. The New Year will DUBROVNIK TRIATHLON FESTIVAL begin with the traditional concert of the https://earthseafire.eu/ www.tzdubrovnik.hr Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra, paired with oysters and champagne, beginning on New Year’s Day at noon.

The EARTH, SEA & FIRE Triathlon Event is held in the southernmost Croatian The Dubrovnik Winter Festival is an event city of Dubrovnik, a famous UNESCO which reveals a new aspect of the City World Heritage Site and one of the most of Dubrovnik, featuring magical lighting attractive global travel destinations. showing its timeless beauty and revealing the rich diversity of artistic expression 6 – 30 OCTOBER through special events, entertainment AUTUMN MUSIC VARIETY programs, colorful cuisine with a touch of www.dso.hr tradition, and ancient customs. Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra autumn concerts include a new festival – the Autumn Music Variety. The festival, as the ADVENT IN THE CITY name says, brings us a variety of music A program of Dubrovnik’s winter events. festival, Advent in the City begins with the lighting of the first Advent candle. 19 -25 OCTOBER The uniqueness of Dubrovnik is also GOOD FOOD FESTIVAL 2020 visible during the month of giving. Join www.tzdubrovnik.hr in the traditional holiday songs, the Dubrovnik kolenda (carols), which have been sung on Christmas Eve and on New Year’s Eve since olden times, offering congratulations and wishing everyone a joyful holiday!

A number of new and interesting gastronomic programs are found in this unique project of the Dubrovnik Tourist Board, which has become an exceptional addition to the autumn month of October and has become a favorite among the locals, as well. The new edition of the Good Food Festival brings presentations of culinary specialties typical to our region, educational programs for children,

2020 Welcome to Dubrovnik 93 No metter what happens, the intervention team is ready to complete your smile within a few hours. No metter what happens, the intervention team is ready to complete your smile within a few hours.