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The Sorrentine Peninsula

84 85 The marvellous natural scenery makes the Sorrentine Peninsula one of the most famous tourist i destinations in Italy. Protruding into the Tyrrhenian Sea, almost touching the island of Capri, it extends from Castellamare di Stabia to Punta Campanella, watershed between the gulfs of Naples and Salerno. Art and tradition characterise the numerous towns, Azienda Autonoma the most famous of which is Sorrento: perched on di Cura Soggiorno e an imposing cliff over the sea, this charming town Turismo di Sorrento e holds on to its medieval and classical memories, Sant’Agnello via L. De Maio 35 while also preserving Renaissance and Baroque tel. 081 8074033 architecture. www.sorrentotourism.com In this very famous area there is no lack of ‘wellness tourism’, like the thermal baths at Vico Equense, one Azienda Autonoma of the most picturesque towns of the coast. But the di Cura Soggiorno e Turismo di Vico Equense great attraction of this land is in its natural beauty: via San Ciro 16 the coastal road is one of the marvels of Italian tel. 081 8015752 scenery. Citrus groves, vineyards and olive groves www.vicoturismo.it that softly pour down the slopes towards the sea, the road follows the tortuous coastline, where curve Castellammare di Stabia Scavi Archeologici di Stabia after curve opens up incredible views of the Gulf via Passeggiata Archeologica of Naples, Vesuvius and Capri. The coast is high, tel. 081 8714541 craggy and rocky, with sheer limestone cliffs that crumble into the sea, coves and rocky shores. Sorrento Museo Correale di Terranova via Correale 48 tel. 081 8781846

Vico Equense Museo Mineralogico Campano via San Ciro, 2 tel. 081 8015668

For excursions along the trails of the Peninsula please contact the Legambiente (Environmental Union) “Il Gheppo” in Vico Equense, tel. 081 8024771. For underwater excursions in the Punta Campanella Marine Reserve you need a permit issued by the Management Authority, viale Filangieri 40 Sorrento Massa Lubrense tel. 081 8089877 of Castellamare di length, invented in the vineyards, typical www.puntacampanella.org Stabia. In nearby 1950’s. The walnuts and oil restaurants and artisan famous travellers Gragnano the exquisite of the Sorrentine Peninsula shops. pasta must be tried, made are also to be tasted and (www.sito.regione.campania.it We descend towards Sorrento on steep roads, lined by walls that protect thick delicacies on the by the famous artisan have been awarded the Dop /agricoltura/home.htm). Peninsula pasta-shops that still use marking. Do not miss the The area is famous for the groves of lemons and oranges with fruit-laden limbs, rose bushes and camelias the old machines. Vico Wine trails and the production of great in flower, palm and pine trees which free their green cusps in the air. A journey amidst the Equense is famous for its typical products of the traditional wines like flavours of the Sorrentine “pizza by the meter”, a Sorrentine Peninsula: a Gragnano and Lettere. Louise Colet, 1863 Peninsula cannot but begin long rectangular pizza journey through open-to- with the famous biscuits intended to be sold by the-public wine cellars, Generale_INGL 25-03-2008 13:27 Pagina 86

not to be missed the sorrentine peninsula the sorrentine peninsula shopping outings with children Sorrento in 1 day in 3 days Dairy products and cheese Mount Faito cableway Massa Lubrense Sorrento Sorrento Sorrento limoncello Mineralogical Museum Bay of Ieranto Vico Equense Castellammare di Stabia Wood inlaid furniture Campano (Vico Equense) Massa Lubrense Vico Equense and objects Beaches of Vico Equense Bay of Ieranto Massa Lubrense Rosoli Nerano Bay of Ieranto Agerola 86 87

events January October-November _Pacchianelle Festival _International Meetings Vico Equense Sorrento

May December _Caruso Prize _Market-Exhibition of Local Sorrento Products Massa Lubrense June _Sausage and Log Festival _Lemon Festival Sorrento Massa Lubrense

July _Vico Jazz Festival Vico Equense _Lemon Festival Sorrento _Sea Festival Sant’Agnello

July-September _Sorrento Jazz... and surroundings Sorrento

August _Surrentum Great Events Performance Festival Sorrento _Fiordilatte Festival Agerola _Fried Fish Festival Castellammare di Stabia _Corn Cob Festival _Ravioli Festival Vico Equense

September _“Gragnano in pasta” Gragnano View of the _Festival of Typical Products Sorrentine Coast Lettere

September-October _Sorrento Musical Encounters art and archaeology nature and parks for young people specialities spas and fitness Sorrento Antiquarium Stabiano Monti Lattari Regional Natural Nerano Castellammare biscuits Beauty centres of the major (Castellammare di Stabia) Park Sorrento Creel shrimp hotels October Baths of the Regina Giovanna Marina di Punta Campanella Vico Equense Agerola Dairy Products Stabia thermal baths _ Grape Festival (Sorrento) Natural Reserve Sorrento Lemons Vico Equense Sorrento Correale di Terranova Museum Sorrento Walnuts (Sorrento) Gragnano Pasta Inlaid Wood Museum Pizza by the meter (Sorrento) Monk’s Provolone cheese Villa di Arianna Fiordilatte braid cheese (Castellammare di Stabia) Limoncello liqueur Lemon delicacies Sorrentine Peninsula Doc wines Wines of Gragnano and Lettere Generale_INGL 25-03-2008 13:27 Pagina 88

From Castellammare di Stabia to Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi

88 89 Castellamare di Stabia is famous for its shipyards The city sits high above the sea on an imposing tuff mare and its thermal spa establishments. outcrop with deep gorges. The houses are immersed in The name comes from a medieval castle (castrum ad luxuriant green and surrounded by groves of olive, lemon ) to which the place-name Stabiae (destroyed in and orange trees. The whole is framed by the high reliefs of the Sorrentine Peninsula. Sorrento is a tranquil place, the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD together with to be enjoyed in all seasons for its mild climate, the Pompeii and Herculaneum) was added. The perfume of its gardens and the panoramic terraces that give archaeological excavations here have uncovered onto the sea. ancient structures: the necropolis of the Madonna The town became famous in the 1800’s, but its history has delle Grazie and numerous Roman buildings, two of much deeper roots. The name Surrentum is possibly tied to which are open to the public, the legend of the siren and theories of a Phoenician Villa San Marco and Villa Arianna. foundation are entertained. What is certain is that in Roman times it was the favourite dwelling of the aristocracy. Vico Equense, famous for its thermal baths and for The town centre is piazza Tasso, which takes its name “pizza by the meter”, also preserves numerous from the author of “Jerusalem Delivered”, born in Sorrento traces of the past: the Annunziata Church, the only in 1544. The Cathedral dates to the 15th century, and has gothic church on the Peninsula, Castello Giusso, seen many restructurings over the ages. The Choir is made founded by the Angevins and restructured at various of refined inlaid wood, a traditional craft the city excels in. different times between the 1600’s and 1800’s, and The Correale di Terranova Museum houses the relics of the interesting Antiquarium, where the relics of an the past in the 1600’s home of the Correali, “the most archaeological burial site from 7th-5th century BC beautiful provincial museum of Italy”, according to Amedeo Maiuri. The archaeological section is important, with its are exhibited. famous Base of Augustus, as is the medieval section with From Vico Equense the road becomes tortuous, marble works of the 10th and 11th century. The collection of following the sinuous slopes of Mount Lattari. furniture, porcelain and paintings is vast. The road follows down all the way to Meta, a The San Francesco Church is from the 1700’s, and from holiday swimming area with the lovely beaches of there you can get to the Villa Comunale, a public garden Marina di Meta and Alimuri. In the historic centre of on the edge of a sheer cliff that offers spectacular views. town is the noted Santa Maria del Lauro Basilica. From the Villa a paved road takes you to the Marina Piccola, which has numerous bathing establishments From Piano di Sorrento, a natural terrace and a port from which the boats for Capri and Naples leave. of tuff rock, Sorrento can be admired from afar, and, The biggest beach is Marina Grande, traditional behind Punta del Capo the profile of Capri is visible. destination of Sorrentine strolls. Sant’Agnello gradually slopes down towards the sea and enjoys mild temperatures even in the summer. Soon after is Sorrento itself, the most famous place on the coast.

The Cathedral of Vico Equense

simple recipe: lemon rinds, separate glorious chapter. permits the delicate alcohol, water and sugar. What makes this unique designs. Sorrento is, however, a inlay so special is not just centre of exquisite the mastery and lemons gastronomic delights. the art of wood inlay inventivness of the artist, A stroll about town is not of Sorrento but his profound knowledge complete without a lemon of the material. It is, in fact, The lemons of the Peninsula sorbet, a ‘hot ice cream’ The art of wood-working in very difficult to recognise are famous for having (the local semifreddo) Campania has ancient and choose the diverse created Limoncello liqueur. or its most famous dessert, origins and traditions: but qualities of wood to create a The best, hand-made, has a the Lemon Delight. sorrentine wood inlay is a chromatic spectrum that Lemons of Sorrento Generale_INGL 25-03-2008 13:27 Pagina 90

famous travellers famous travellers

I can only immagine that heaven on earth looks more or less I remember well the place and the moment when the car that was taking me like the Capo di Sorrento. Outside my window an emerald sea on the road that goes to Sorrento towards Sant’Agata crossed the backbone spreads out, olive, orange and lemon trees climb up the my of the sorrentine peninsula when suddenly the other sea appeared, the Gulf front doorstep. Only now do I begin to regain some of my of Sorrento, and the little Sirenuse islands, and all the scenery around me was senses in the face of all of this grace of God. suddenly arid, naked and wild, without a tree, without a house, and in front Isaak E. Babel, 1931 of me there was only a series of curves on the edge of the cliff over the water, 90 far below me, and the little street that courageously ventured between curtains 91 After Punta del Capo, where the ruins of Villa Here one discovers the wilder and more enchanted of rock that skirted one abyss after the other. of Pollio Felice (1st century BC, known as the face of the coast. One can explore this fascinating Raffaele La Capria, 1992 Baths of the Regina Giovanna) face the sea, is natural environment following a trail that reaches the Massa Lubrense, a popular and panoramic health evocative Bay of Ieranto, a rocky cove at the feet of resort. Mount San Costanzo, today the property of the FAI The town is less well known than others on the (Italian Environmental Foundation) who insures its Peninsula and therefore not as affected by mass environmental integrity. tourism. Thanks to this, it retains its secluded nature From Massa Lubrense one can go up to Sant’Agata and preserves flavours and that special feeling lost sui Due Golfi (Saint Agatha of the Two Gulfs), in a in other places, like the old farm buildings. Close by magnificent panoramic position over the gulfs of is Marina della Lobra, a fishing village with its Naples and of Salerno, and reach the ancient 18th houses built on the beach and at the little port. century carmelite hermitage called Deserto (desert).

Around Massa Lubrense there are many charming little villages: Termini, Nerano, a town halfway up the shore with houses and terraces that come down towards the sea, and the vast and beautiful Marina del Cantone. From Massa you can continue to the far extreme of the Sorrentine Peninsula, in front of Capri: Punta Campanella. In antiquity this place was sacred: perhaps it was here that the Greek temple dedicated to the sirens, so written about by the ancient authors, surged. In the Classic Era the temple was dedicated to Athena, the Romans then built a road that led to it from Sorrento. Some of the old stoneslab paved stretches are still visible as one nears the Punta. The tower-lighthouse, built in 1335 and rebuilt in 1566, signalled the arrival of pirates with the sounding of a bell, hence the name of the Point: Campanella means bell.

Massa Lubrense

new world record for depth natural balcony overlooking From Punta Campanella, evocative submarine (87 mt) without breathing the bays of Naples and of designated a Marine Nature grottoes can be found: the aids (in apnoea). Every year, Salerno. Reserve, more experienced most spectacular being the on the second Sunday of The Lattari Mountains form walkers will be able to reach Grotto of Cala di Mitigliano. the diver’s sanctuary September, Mass is on the trails the backbone of the the enchanting Baia di Ieranto. the Punta Campanella Diving and boat visits are celebrated on the islet, of the Peninsula peninsula. The terrain is Marine Reserve permitted in the Reserve. followed by the laying of uneven, with rises and The rock of the Vervece, in flowers by underwater A day walking along the precipices, peninsulas and A protected marine reserve full view of Massa divers in honour of a little footpaths of the peninsula is deep gullies. The nature walks (1539 hectares of seabed), Lubrense, is where, in bronze Madonna that lies at the best way to discover the are very varied in length and it is between the Sorrentine 1974, Enzo Maiorca set a a depth of 15 meters. marvellous sights of this degree of difficulty. Peninsula and Capri, where