3 2 1 1 1 3 3 2 2 Salt Works East River: site of CCC and Plum Orchard: site of Port Leon West Seineyard Goose Creek Wakulla Beach Hotel and Wakulla Beach: site of Creek Seineyards Creek Seineyards Creek Beach Hotel and West Goose Beach Hotel and West Goose Wakulla Beach: site of Wakulla Wakulla Beach: site of Wakulla Works Works East River: site of CCC and Salt East River: site of CCC and Salt Plum Orchard: site of Port Leon Plum Orchard: site of Port Leon

GPS Coordinates: 84° 9.869'GPS Coordinates: W ~ 30° 5.282' N 84° 10.955' W ~ 30° 4.658' N St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge History Trail St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge History St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge History Trail St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge History Trail St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge History 84°8.710' W 84°8.892' W 84°15.703' W 84°15.703' W 84°15.703' W 84°8.710' W 84°8.710' W 84°8.892' W 84°8.892' W 30° 7.797' N 30° 9.099' N 30° 6.316' N 30° 6.316' N 30° 6.316' N 30° 7.797' N 30° 7.797' N 30° 9.099' N 30° 9.099' N 6 5 4 6 6 5 5 4 4 Mandalay: site of Aucilla River Spanish Hole/Shipwreck Lighthouse, Ft. Williams, and St. Marks Lighthouse: site of Shell Mounds and Naval Stores Mounds Station: site of Mandalay: site of Aucilla River Mandalay: site of Aucilla River Ft. WilliamsShipwreck, Ft. WilliamsShipwreck, Lighthouse, Spanish Hole/ Lighthouse, Spanish Hole/ St. Marks Lighthouse: site of St. Marks Lighthouse: site of Indians and Naval Stores Indians and Naval Stores Mounds Station: site of Paleo Mounds Station: site of Paleo

Before Europeans settled the 83° 58.769' W 84° 10.955' W 84° 9.869' W 83° 58.769' W 83° 58.769' W 83° 58.769' W 83° 58.769' W 84° 9.869' W 84° 9.869' W southeast ern U.S., an estimated 90 million acres of longleaf pine forests blanketed the Coastal Plain from southern Virginia into east Texas and down Florida’s peninsula. Longleaf pines 30° 6.985' N 30° 4.658' N 30° 5.282' N 30° 6.985' N 30° 6.985' N 30° 4.658' N 30° 4.658' N 30° 5.282' N 30° 5.282' N Fortwere Williams, so dominant in a drawing that people from Frank believed Leslie’s Illustratedthe forest Newpaper,would never February disappear, 22, 1862 but it (de- tail).almost (Courtesy did. State Archives of Florida)

(Courtesy(Courtesy St.St. MarksMarks RefugeRefuge files)files) and taken to the still. The stiller, who monitored the temperature of the kettle, and the cooper, who fashioned barrels, were two of the most important jobs. A stand of pines was called a crop. These magnificent trees were highly productive for only a few years and when production dropped off the timber was logged or abandoned. The camp and still During spring and summer, workers dipped the were moved to another virgin forest, and gum and ladled it into barrels that were hauled the cycle began again. Collecting and distilling pine gum was hot and to the turpen tine still. The raw material was North Carolina was the top turpentine dirty work. The threat of fire was constant and heated over open fires in copper kettles to pro- producer for many years. As the pines duce the spirits. (Courtesy of the State Archives many stills went up in flames. (Courtesy State of Florida) gave out the turpentiners moved south Archives of Florida) but did not begin heavy exploitation of Pitch, produced by distilling gum Florida’s pinelands until the late 1800s. mid-1940s. A few cat-faced stumps and from pines, is used to caulk holes in When the first convention of the clay pots can still be found. wooden boats. Longleaf pines produce Turpentine Operators’ Association met in By the mid-1900s, managed rows more gum than other southern pines. September 1902, they were welcomed by of pine had replaced natural forests. Collectively, everything that is needed the Mayor of Jacksonville and Florida’s The advent of steel ships and synthetic to outfit and keep a wooden ship afloat – Governor, W. S. Jennings. Both men chemicals brought an end to commercial pitch, masts, turpentine, rope, sails, and cautioned that the current practices were tur pentine production, once the South’s so on – is called Naval Stores. Turpentine “a reckless destruction of the trees . . . largest and most profitable industry. was also used in At the present rate your industry will not The once seemingly endless longleaf medicines, cleaning last fifteen years.” forests along with many of the plants and products, paint, Little heed was paid to those words. animals that depended on the ecosystem varnish, and a Most of the land that makes up the St. have almost disappeared from the multitude of other Marks Unit of the refuge was purchased southern landscape. Fewer that 3 million products. from the Phillips Turpen tine Company in acres of old growth longleaf pine forest When the bark the early 1930s. The com pany retained have survived. Luckily modern land is scraped from the turpentine and timber rights until the managers are working hard to restore the trunk, gum begins ecosystem. The best examples of longleaf oozing to protect pines on the refuge are on the Panacea the wound. The Unit near the town of Panacea. scrape is called a face or cat-face. A The St. Marks Refuge Association, Inc., with metal box or clay a matching grant from the National Fish and pot attached to Wildlife Foundation, produced the signs and the bot tom of the brochures for the St. Marks National Wildlife wound collected the Refuge History Trail. The association is a 501(c) gum. The face was (3) organization that supports educational, not allowed to heal environmental, and biological programs of St. and periodically the Marks National Wildlife Refuge. Visit www.

Clay Herty cup attached to a cat-faced pine of Florida) (Courtesy State Archives stmarksrefuge.org for more information. 9/2010 gum was collected Cooper's shed (Courtesy State Archives of Florida)