Camellias By Bob Goodhart

CAMELLIA

Planting & Care

SITE SELECTION. Most camellias grow and produce their best flowers in the broken, mottled shade of tall pines and in protected, partially shaded locations. Camellias located in full sun often begin to emerge from their dormancy during warm periods of the winter and may suffer damage if cold weather follows. Plants in a northern or western exposure of a building or fence or otherwise protected from intense morning sun and cold winter wind will usually stand more cold weather than those in an easterly or southern exposures or those buffeted by cold, dry winter winds. Choose a planting site with well-drained soil and as little competition from shallow rooted trees like beech or poplar that will compete for nutrients and water. Camellia sasanqua is more tolerant of sun than japonica, but any camellia that is receiving too much sun will have leaves with a yellow cast, or they will suffer from sunscald. Careful site selection is the single most important requirement for growing beautiful, healthy camellias.

PLANTING. Camellias do best in slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5 and a high humus content as is found on the forest floor. Your plants will especially appreciate the incorporation of organic matter (composted leaves, pine bark, well- rotted sawdust) into the planting area. The best time to plant camellias in this area is from late October through the middle of April, so the roots have time to develop before the heat and drought of summer arrive. However, container grown plants may be set out at any time as long as the ground can be worked and plenty of water is provided. In any case, new plants will require extra watering during their first summer, regardless of when they were planted. They should be soaked once a week during hot weather. Plant your camellias at least five feet apart unless you are making a hedge, then three feet is sufficient. Follow the steps below for planting.

1. Dig a hole at least twice the size of the root ball. Leave an undisturbed column of soil in the center of the hole to prevent settling. 2. Place the root ball on the column of soil so the top of the ball is about 2 inches above grade. NOTE: Nothing will kill camellias more surely than planting them too deeply. With container grown plants, loosen or score the roots with a knife to encourage root development.

3. Fill the hole around the root ball with the soil that you removed from the hole and enhanced with compost. If the soil is high in clay content or compacted, add a little sharp sand. If you added compost to the planting area or if there is leaf mold from surrounding trees, that will be a plus.

4. Make a shallow saucer outside the root ball to keep your water from running off. Then, mulch your plant with fine ground pine bark and lightly top it off with pine straw.

5. Water thoroughly to settle the soil.

WATERING AND MULCHING. Camellias thrive in cool, moist soil. They do not tolerate soggy, waterlogged conditions. Water thoroughly to a depth of 12” to 18” if your camellias need a drink. Make light applications (an inch or two) of a good organic mulch in the spring and fall. This will keep weeds down, the roots cool, and retain moisture.

FERTILIZATION. Camellias require little fertilizer, and I recommend only organic, slow release products with a low nitrogen content of 12% or less. Fertilize as soon as growth buds start to swell in late March and early April. Do not feed later than May. I recommend Bioplex 12-3-5, Bioplex 5-3-1, or Hickory Grove Farm Top Dressing. You should consider your mulch and compost as feedings as well, but be careful of what you use. Manure can be risky, so stick with the above recommendations.

PRUNING. Normally, camellias require only light pruning. The best time to prune is right after blooming because buds form on new growth for the next bloom cycle. Prune out dead or weak branches and small twigs to allow for good air circulation and light penetration. Selective pruning to keep long shoots in bounds is acceptable. Shearing is a bad practice that invites disease and pest problems.

PEST CONTROL. Apply Volk horticultural oil in late February or March for scale, mites and insect eggs and larva. Highly refined oil (Sun Oil) may be applied the rest of the year, but only as needed. Neem oil is an effective alternate for scale, insects and some fungal problems. The various insecticidal soaps are useful for insect and scale problems as you vary your applications to limit the development of immunity to any one product.

THE MOST COMMONLY USED CAMELLIA SPECIES

Japonica – late winter & early spring blooming. The most popular species.

Sasanqua – fall and early winter blooming.

Reticulata – currently available cultivars are more tender, but very showy.

Best if planted in a cool greenhouse kept above freezing. Keep an eye out for new introductions from collecting expeditions and hybridization programs for more cold hardy cultivars.

Sinensis – the common tea plant. Small white or pink flowers. Fall blooming.

Oleifera – the oil camellia. Small white flowers. Cold hardy and used to produce cold hardy hybrids.

A FEW CAMELLIAS RECOMMENDATIONS FOR TIDEWATER VIRGINIA

Camellia japonica, late winter & early spring blooming

‘Magnoliaeflora’ – 7A ‘Professor Sargent’ – 7 ‘Pink Perfection’ – 7 ‘R. L. Wheeler’ – 7 ‘Adyaka’ – 7A ‘Jacks’ – 7A ‘Willie Hite’ – 7 ‘Lady Clare’ – 7 ‘Brilliant’ – 7 ‘Tama-No-Ura’ – 7A ‘April Dawn’ – 7 ‘Lady Clare var. – 7 ‘Glen 40 – 8 ‘Chandleri Elegans’ – 8 ‘Lester A. Allen’ – 7 ‘Mathotiana var.’ – 8 ‘Rosea Superba’ – 8 ‘W. C. Noel’ – 7 ‘Governor Mouton’ - 7 ‘Nuccio’s Gem’ – 8 (protected area or cold house) ‘Nuccio’s Pearl’ – 8 (protected area or cold house)

Camellia sasanqua, fall & early winter blooming

‘Yuletide’ – 7B ‘Bonanza’ – 7B ‘Kanjiro’ – 7B ‘Hana Jiman’ – 7B ‘Sparkling Burgundy’ – 7B ‘Shishi-Gashira’ – 7A ‘Setsugekka’ – 7B ‘Midnight Lover’ – 7A (shaded location for most vivid color)

Camellia hybrids, winter & spring blooming

‘April Rose’ – 6B ‘Jordan’s Pride’ – 7B ‘Dawn’ – 7B ‘Pink Icicle’ – 6?-7 ‘Crimson Candles’ – 7A

NOTE: The number and letter following each plant name indicates the agricultural zone to which the particular variety can be expected to be cold hardy. The Lower and Middle Peninsulas generally are zone 8.

Camellia Resources and Sources

Resources:

The Virginia Camellia Society, c/o Sally Simon, 5089 Fairfax Avenue, Norfolk, Virginia 23507

The American Camellia Society, One Massee Lane, Fort Valley, Georgia 31030. Telephone: (912) 967-2358.

The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Camellias by Stirling Macoboy. Get the most recent edition, 1998 or later, available through Barnes & Noble and other major book sellers.

Growing Camellias in Cold Climates by William L. Ackerman, Ph.D., American Literary Press, Inc., 8019 Belair Road, Suite 10, Baltimore, MD 21236, telephone (410) 882-7700.

McDonald Garden Center’s free pamphlet on camellias.

Sources:

**CAMELLIA FOREST NURSERY, 9701 Carrie Road, Chapel Hill, NC 27516

**GOODHART’S GARDENS for Bioplex fertilizers, Organic Top Dressing and Fertilizers and consultant services -

(804) 642-5417 (Bob Goodhart) or e-mail [email protected]

**Mc DONALD GARDEN CENTER, 1139 W. Pembroke Ave, Hampton, VA

**NUCCIO’S NURSERY, 33555 Chaney Trail, Altadena, CA 91001

**SMITHFIELD GARDENS, Route 17, Suffolk, Va

*Disclaimer: Commercial products are named in this publication for informational purposes only. Virginia Cooperative Extension does not endorse these products and does not intend discrimination against other products which also may be suitable.