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I3jl~ ~ ¥" Cha Nnel for the Harbor of Santander, Are Used to Expla in Th E Morphodynamics of the Tidal Chan­ Nel and Th E Spit

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I3jl~ ~ ¥ Journal of Coastal Research Fort Lauderdale, Florid a Historical Evolution and Morphological Analysis of "EI Puntal" Spit, Santander (Spain) M.A. Losada, R. Medina, C. Vidal and A. Roldan Departamento de Ciencias y Tecnicas del Agua y del Medio Ambiente Universidad d e Cantabria Santander 39005, Spain ABSTRACT _ LOSADA, M. A. , MEDIN A, R., VIDA L, C., and ROLDAN, A., 199 1. Hi storical Evolu tion and Mor ­ pholo gical Analysis of"EI Puntal " Spit, Santander (Spa in). J ournal of Coastal R esearch, 7(3), ,tllllllll:.. 711- 722 . Fort Lauderdale (Florida) . ISSN 074 9-020S. •• • The hi st ori cal evolution of'EI Puntal' Spit in Sa nta nde r , Spain, is herein pr esented . Field mea­ sure me nts of tides, currents a nd bathymetric pr ofiles, ca rr ied out to design a new navigation t!I3Jl~ ~ ¥" cha nnel for the harbor of Santander, are used to expla in th e morphodynamics of the tidal chan­ nel and th e spit. Th e Empirical Orthogonal Functi on (EOF) method is applie d to analyze th e ¥ S-- long shore changes of th e spit ca us ed by storm and tid e activities . Results of th e EOF analysis show th at the spit ca n be divided into a tide dom inated sect ion and a sto rm dominated sect ion. The inte rti dal shoreface slope of th ese sect ions sho ws a distinct pattern of behavi or under storm condi tio ns: while the tidal sectio ns accreties , t he sto rm sec tio ns erode; durin g wa ve ca lm periods t he opposit e occurs . Dredgin g act iv ity in the na vi gation chan ne l (tide sect ion ) during the last fifty yea rs ha s led to an over all non-equilibrium of t he spit . ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Beaches, matrices, navigati on, tides, sedi ment tran sport. HISTORICAL EVOLUTION OF 'EL bay, an offshore shoal emerged. This shoal was PUNTAL' SPIT called Las Quebrantas which means 'breaking zone .' Under wave action, sediment was trans­ The harbor of Santander is located on the ported from this shoal to the beach. Cantabrian Coast of Spain, Gulf of Biscay, The main consequence of the development of within the Bay of Santander, Figure 1. The nav­ the shoal was the separation of the spit dynamic igation channel which connects the open sea into two regions: Somo-Loredo Beach, which and the bay has a W-E orientation and is had a predominant east longshore transport bounded northward by the Magdalena Penin­ and the Puntal Beach which had a west long­ sula and Southward by El PuntaI Spit, a sandy shore transport. The sediment was carried to spit which protrudes well inside the bay. In this the bay and drifted into the channel where ebb section we review the morphological evolution tidal currents brought it back to the shoal. of the spit in the last two hundred years due to During the 19th and the first half of the 20th ocean dynamics, mainly wind waves and tidal Century, the city of Santander grew remarka­ currents, and to human action. bly, as did its harbor. The land needed for this Figure 2 shows the harbor entrance in 1730 . expansion was obtained from the bay by At that time, Santander was a small town reclaiming its western part (see Figure 3) which spread around the Cathedral. The bay r esulting in the subsequent decrease of the had a tidal prism approximately 60 % larger tidal prism. Figure 3 shows the entrance chan­ than the present value and the channel was nel in 1875 . Notice the difference in size of the slightly different from today. offshore shoal compared with Figure 2 and also The main channel features at that time were the curvature of the spit end. (1) a NE -SW orientation, (2) a great depth and The situation in 1960 is shown in Figure 4. (3) a steep slope at the spit side. Outside the At that time the Location Project was almost 90123 received 8 September 1990; accepted in revision 2 J anuary completed. Since then, intensive dredging 1991. activity, mainly in the offshore shoal Las Que- 712 Losada et al . ~ SANTANDER ATLANTIC OCEAN BAY 1. CIT Y <l: W c::: -c * TIDAL SURVEY o= iOOO M. 00 GEOPHYSI CAL stJRVEY kdr~J INTERTIDAL AREAS R. Figure 1. Study ar ea. brantas and in the spit end, has been carried the following points can be noted: (1) A loss of out in order to maintain a navigable channel sand of about 2 x 106 m" along the spit between (see Figure 2). its end and Las Quebrantas; (2) a retreat of the Comparing the figures from 1960 and 1875, low tide bathymetric of roughly 100 m; (3) an Journal of Coas ta l Research , Vol. 7, No.3, 1991 Evolution of El PuntaI Spit, Santander,Spain 713 ATLANTIC OCEAN l. V MOURO I . B. HARBOUR ENTRANCE IN 1730 Figure 2. Harbor entrance in 1730. ATLANTIC OCEAN SANTA MA RINA l. Q MOURO I. o ;:.. LOREDO BEACH 1000. M. I HARBOUR ENTRANCE IN 1875 Figure 3. Harbor entrance in 1875. increase in the steepness of the channel slopes; As can be observed, all the alterations (4) the increased depth of the channel, achiev­ described above continue to happen and some of ing in some points 15 meters under low tide them more noticeably. In particular, the Que­ level; (5) a slight variation in the channel ori­ brantas shoal has almost disappeared, the entation towards the east; and (6) the discharge Loredo region has retreated about 200 meters point of the Cubas River was moved to inside and some rocks in the submerged as well as in the Bay. the aerial beach profile are now visible. An Finally, Figure 5 shows the situation in 1985. evaluation of the sand lost in the system during Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 7, No.3, 1991 714 Losad a et al. 1000M t= 1 .:;." . ,) : .:':.: HARBOUR ENTRACE IN 1960 Figure 4. Ha rbor ent ra nce in 1960. ATLANTIC OCE AN SANTAMARINA r I. 10 EL PUN TAL 50 MO r" 70 - - -BATH YM ETRIC SURVEY -- - - CURRENT S SURV EY HARBOU R ENTRANCE IN 1985 Figu re 5. Harbor entrance in 1985. Journal of Coas ta l Research, Vol. 7, No. 3, 1991 Evolution of El Puntal Spit, Santander, Spain 715 the last 25 years might be as large as 6 x 106 Field measurements of water level around m". the bay, currents, bathymetric beach profiles of Now, after more than 25 years of intensive the spit and geophysical profiles along the nav­ dredging and strong alterations of the equilib­ igation channel were recorded during one year. rium conditions of the spit-navigation channel Figures 1 and 5 show the areas of monitoring. system, the navigation conditions at the In order to avoid human influence upon the field entrance are far from satisfactory. Further­ data, dredging activity was suspended during more, present conditions are not compatible the period of measurement. with today's harbor traffic and its future devel­ Water level was recorded at three locations opment. Consequently, the Harbor Authority within the bay (Figure 1) using pressure decided to study the morphodynamic conditions gauges. Currents were recorded in four channel of the navigation system in order to seek a solu­ sections (Figure 5) ten times per tidal cycle . An tion which satisfies the navigation require­ ACDP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) ments, minimizes the dredging costs and takes mounted on a boat was used. Bathymetric pro ­ into account the role of EI Puntal Spit as a files were surveyed eleven times from December branch that is used as a recreation area. 1987 to January 1989, at the locations shown in Figure 5. The exposed beach was measured PHYSICAL ENVIRONMENT AND FIELD using standard surveying techniques and the MEASUREMENT offshore portion was measured using sounding and triangulation. The north coast of Spain consists of a series of pocket beaches and small inlets separated by pronounced rocky headlands. Santander Bay is TOPOGRAPHIC AND BATHYMETRIC one of the largest inlets on the Cantabrian VARIATION ANALYSIS Coast and is located about 200 km west of the French border. The bay provides a natural shel­ The data set for this study, therefore, consists ter from the waves of the Gulf of Biscay which of one year of monthly onshore-offshore profile arrive from NNW and have an annual average surveys. These profiles include not only beach significant height of 1 m with winter storm profiles (P5, P6, P7) but channel profiles as well waves of 4 m. Wave propagation to the average (PI, P2 , P3 , P4) . Alongshore spacing of the pro­ is modified by the Magdelena Peninsula which files was approximately 100 m for channel pro­ produces wave diffraction and reflexion. Most of files and 500 m for beach profiles. Each profile this wave energy is finally dissipated along the was surveyed from mean high water (MHW) on spit. Inside the bay waves are predominantly from the SW and, because of their local gener­ the intertidal beach seaward to a depth of ation, they are short and small waves. approximately 15 m. The landward part of each The mean tidal range in Santander Bay is 3 profile was surveyed to a depth of approxi­ meters; the spring tidal range is 5 meters and mately 1 m from a series of bench marks estab­ the tides are semidiurnal. The actual tidal lished in the dune areas. In this way, the sea­ prism is about 87 x 106 m" and the maximum ward part of the land profile overlapped with discharge around 5500 m3/sc .
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