ARMENIA will have thebestsightstothemselves. As most travellers whiz throughonabriefsidetripbetweenotherplaces,seriousexplorers caves andsummervillagesinhabitedstalactite-filled byYezidi KurdsandArmenianshepherds. development Sevan.Yet inplaceslike it’sstilleasytoescapesomehiddengems,including homeland. Their highstandardsenticedsomeinternational hotel chainsandcausedover- stretching fromSydneytoLA. toasupportive but Armeniaseemstohave madethebestofit,thanksinpart diaspora oligarch attitudesandoldfeuds withneighbouringcountries. It’satoughneighbourhood oftheworld),it’ssimultaneouslyheldbackby robust economyandliberalism(forthispart toasting accompanyamealburstingwithfresh vegetables andgrilled meats. a commonlanguage. Ties are bestforged aroundadinnertable,where endlessrounds of You’ll easilyfindfriendsamongthesegracious,humbleandeasygoingpeople,even without –butlastingimpressions liemoreand high-walledforts withtheArmeniansthemselves. the ‘Caucasian Tiger’. sights onEUmembership,whilebusinessmenare enjoyingaboomingeconomydubbed Armenia hasbuiltitsmemorials,dusted itselfoffandmoved on.Politicianshave settheir belie thecountry’sreputation thanlettingpastwoesweighitdown, fortragedy.Rather the boutiquetourismindustryandwarmwelcomeyou’llreceive everywhere seemsto you’d hardlynoticeitfromaquicktouraroundthecountry.The rapidlymodernizingcapital, Although Armenianscarryalotofpsychological baggagefromatraumatic20thcentury, Armenia 130 © LonelyPlanetPublications Much of the current tourist traffic comprises diaspora Armenians seeking asliceoftheir Much ofthecurrent touristtrafficcomprisesdiasporaArmeniansseeking Delving deeperintothecountryreveals anationwithcomplexdichotomy.Despite its For travellers, easilyvisited churches highlightsincludeancientmonasteries, candle-lit

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Population Phrases Hanrapetutyan (Republic ofArmenia) Official name the firstChristiannation Famous for Capital Area 29,800sqkm Yerevan

Barev dzez 3,215,800 Cognac,turbulenthistory,being Hayastan,Hayastani (Hello), ՀԱՅԱՍՏԱՆ Genats! (Cheers!) ARMENIA 131 (barbecued (barbecued (lamb and herb (lamb and herb khoravats lahmajoon pizza) AMD100, pizza) AMD100, food) AMD1700 of petrol AMD650 Litre AMD200 of bottled water Litre of beer AMD230 Bottle AMD3000 T-shirt Souvenir – treat Street ARMENIA ARMENIA INDEX „ „ „ „ „

While Armenia shoulders up to the big up to the big While Armenia shoulders Meanwhile, Iran continues to bolster trade Iran continues to bolster Meanwhile, a new nuclear reactor at Metsamor. Russia Russia at Metsamor. a new nuclear reactor also maintains a military base near Gyumri along Armenia’s borders soldiers and posts its and Iran. with Turkey it re- trade and energy international boys of with its neighbours in old feuds mains mired relations with the United States, Russia and with the United relations Iran? Recognising Armenia’s small but influ- ential role as a moderating force in the region, lasting ties, swiftly to forge the US has moved evinced new embassy in Yerevan by its huge land) and incorporation of (on 8.9 hectares into its Millennium Challenge Armenia of that aid package Account, a multi-billion-dollar met developing countries that have rewards freedom, as press such certain requirements, transparency. democracy and government ties with Armenia and has signed multi- and transit deals, in- million-dollar energy cluding a natural gas pipeline and oil refin- supplier until the main energy ery. Russia, a deal to build with now, has upped the ante warm days and more stable weather. It’s also stable weather. warm days and more harvestthe time of delicious fresh and festivals 27°C in both sea- averages produce – Yerevan sons. Summer (June to August) in Yerevan a time, while condi- can be 40°C for days at in the north. tions can be radically different Lake Sevan to June has a short summer – late September – but is Canadian during winter: weather lasts until Winter -10°C on average. the country. See of much over April or May p312 for details. CURRENT EVENTS Armenia has resources its limited Despite What other at geopolitics. become a master country in the world can say it maintains good May) has more flowers but autumn (late but autumn (late flowers has more May) has long, September to early November) (fruit vodka) and handi- ARMENIA •• Itineraries ( p206 )– A region peppered

- There’s lots to do and see - There’s

- Allows you to explore more more - Allows you to explore - Take some time around Yeghe- - Take oghee - Travel up to Lori to the awe- up to Lori - Travel ( p145 ) – A lively cultural life, life, cultural ) – A lively p145 (

( p190 ) – Forested mountain retreat mountain retreat ) – Forested p190 ( ( p213 ) – Armenia’s prettiest rural prettiest ) – Armenia’s p213 ( ( p195 )– This northern region offers offers )– This northern region p195 (

spectacular scenery at every turn; forests, spectacular scenery at every turn; forests, Debed as the incredible canyons (such string of ), and a stunning p199 Canyon; medieval including Sanahin monasteries, ( p201 ) and Haghpat ( p201 ). buzzing late-night café scene and some café scene and buzzing late-night the fine museumsof smooth out some Armenian capital. the of stylings Soviet Two Weeks cos- Yerevan’s of more gnadzor and taste or townmopolitanism, a village organise Dilijan, or of more homestay, explore the south. head for Sisian and Goris in

Vayots Dzor Vayots Dilijan town with pleasant accommodation, facilities and great tourist burgeoning Haghartsin like walks near monasteries and Goshavank. Goris architecture, town, with 19th century ancient cave hidden leafy lanes and The incredible dwellings on its outskirts. away. drive is a short Monastery Tatev Lori Yerevan with historic and natural beauty includ- with historic and natural ) and Yeghegis p207 ( church ing Noravank wineries and the ), plus caves, p209 ( village ). p210 ( Jermuk at mineral baths relaxing One Month off the beaten track places like Yeghegis, Yeghegis, track places like off the beaten time Ijevan and Gyumri. Take Meghri, spelunking in Vayots for some day hikes, Aragats. Mt Dzor or climbing on Three Days One Week some World Heritage–listed Haghpat and Haghpat some World Heritage–listed or stay in Vanadzor Sanahin churches, the on the best of Dilijan, or concentrate in particular. and Noravank south – Tatev around Yerevan: take in live music at music at in live take around Yerevan: for and shop a concert or restaurant, brandy, crafts. Take short day trips to Garni and crafts. Take Geghard, Khor one to Virap or a longer Lake Sevan and Dilijan.

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CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS Lori, Tavush and Syunik. Spring (March to Syunik. Spring (March and Lori, Tavush Most of Armenia has a dry, high-altitude Armenia has a dry, high-altitude Most of in rainy pockets except for verdant climate

ITINERARIES ITINERARIES

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