STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY

Armenia, and

The at A Crossroads

September 8 to 24, 2012

a program of the stanford alumni association

STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY Once united under a Soviet banner, , Georgia and Azerbaijan are countries with wildly distinct cultures, languages, religions and peoples. And, while today’s traveler may consider them off the beaten tourist track, historically these societies were at the crossroads of civilizations from ancient times to the Cold War. Join us as we explore the physical beauty of the Caucasus; the richness of each country’s literary, musical and artistic heritage; the political significance of each nation’s particular relationship with Russia and (and hence with the U.S. and nations of the Middle East); and the importance of the region’s natural resources to the global economy. Come discover these fascinating lands with us.

Brett S. Thompson, ’83, Director, Stanford Travel/Study

cover: ananUri Fortress, Georgia Highlights

MARVEL at the Greco- DISCOVER the unique EXPLORE the narrow Roman temple of and delicious Georgian lanes and picturesque that stands incongruously and learn about the courtyards of Baku’s amid the medieval Christian extensive drinking rituals Old City—a World churches dotting the that take place at nearly Heritage site. Armenian countryside. every big Georgian .

baku, Azerbaijan C a u c a c u R USSIA G EORGIA s M o u Caspian n t a Sea i n s Sheki

A RMENIA

A ZERBAIJAN Baku Lake Sevan Mt. Ararat

choir performance there. Enjoy Friday, September 14 a private champagne reception Riya Taza / Haghpat / Itinerary at the Parajanov Museum. Tbilisi, Georgia On our journey to Georgia, stop ARMENIA MARRIOTT HOTEL (B,L) en route in the Kurdish village Saturday & Sunday, September 8 & 9 Wednesday, September 12 of Riya Taza. After an al fresco Depart U.S. / Yerevan / Echmiadzin , continue through vast pine Yerevan, Armenia Visit the sobering Armenian forests to the monastic complex at Depart the U.S. on overnight Genocide Museum Institute and Haghpat, a 10th-century complex flights, arriving on Sunday in explore the that boasts some of the best- Yerevan. Upon arrival, transfer to Memorial Complex dedicated preserved examples of Armenian our hotel. ARMENIA MARRIOTT HOTEL to the memory of the 1.5 million architecture as well as beautiful who perished in the frescoes and stone . Monday, September 10 first genocide of the 20th century. Cross the border into Georgia, Yerevan Attend a briefing at a local arriving in Tbilisi this evening. Today explore Armenia’s lovely foundation working to promote RADISSON IVERIA HOTEL (B,L,D) city, including the nearly social justice and democratic 3,000-year-old ruins of Erebuni, values. Drive to Echmiadzin to Saturday, September 15 an ancient fortress city from which visit the residence of the Supreme Tbilisi present-day Yerevan takes its Catholicos, leader of the Armenian Explore Georgia’s picturesque name. Continue to the Armenia Apostolic Church, and tour capital today. Visit Metekhi History Museum, then visit the the cathedral’s small museum. Church located high atop a cliff , a repository of overlooking the Old Town, then ARMENIA MARRIOTT HOTEL (B,L,D) ancient manuscripts housing over tour the Museum of Georgian 60,000 documents. End the day Thursday, September 13 Art whose treasury includes the with a stroll through Vernissage, / oldest example of Georgian icon Yerevan’s popular open-air market. / Yerevan painting. Visit Sioni Cathedral and ARMENIA MARRIOTT HOTEL (B,L,D) Drive to the monastery complex of Caravanserai, home to Georgia’s Khor Virap where St. Gregory was holiest relic: a cross of vine stems Tuesday, September 11 imprisoned in an underground cell and hair said to have been woven Garni / Yerevan for 12 years before succeeding in by St. Nino who brought Christianity This morning drive to Garni, one of making Armenia the first country to Georgia in the 4th century. Armenia’s oldest settlements and to accept Christianity as its state Explore the atmospheric bathhouse home to a magnificent Hellenistic- religion. Marvel at the stunning district and end the afternoon with style pagan temple used as a views of Mt. Ararat, then drive to a briefing at the U.S. Embassy. This royal residence after Armenia’s the Noravank Monastery whose evening discover Georgia’s tasty, conversion to Christianity. Continue 14th-century Surb Astvatsatsin unique cuisine at a traditional to Monastery, famous Church is the masterpiece of dinner. RADISSON IVERIA HOTEL (B,L,D) for its khatchkars—unique stone renowned architect and sculptor, crosses that are a symbol of . Enjoy a picnic lunch on Sunday, September 16 Armenian religion and culture— the grounds of Noravank before / Gori / Tbilisi and attend a specially arranged returning to Yerevan. ARMENIA After a morning meeting with a local MARRIOTT HOTEL (B,L,D) civil rights NGO, drive to Georgia’s C a u c a c u R USSIA G EORGIA s M Telavi o u Caspian Tbilisi n t a Sea i n s Sheki

A RMENIA

A ZERBAIJAN Baku Sevan Mt. Ararat

tbilisi, Georgia

“spiritual capital,” the charming town Wednesday, September 19 Saturday, September 22 of Mtskheta. Visit the Cathedral of Telavi Baku Sveti-Tskoveli and Jvari Monastery, Spend the day exploring the Visit the somber Martyrs Lane, a built at the end of the 6th century. region, beginning with the stunning memorial to those killed during the Continue to Gori, birthplace of silver-domed Alaverdi Cathedral, fight for Azerbaijani independence Stalin, and visit the Stalin Museum Georgia’s largest church. Drive to in 1990 and later in the Nagorno- that includes the house in which the fortress complex of Kvetara Karabakh War. After a walking the dictator was born. Return to that was built by a local Kakhetian tour through the Old City of Tbilisi and enjoy an evening at prince in the 10th century. Return to Baku, a World Heritage site, view leisure. RADISSON IVERIA HOTEL (B,L) Telavi where we explore Herekle’s displays of carpets at the State , an 18th-century castle Museum of Azerbaijan Carpets Monday, September 17 enclosure with a distinctly Persian and Applied Art. Explore the Ananuri / Tbilisi architectural flavor. Rcheuli Marani extensive courtyards and buildings Drive along the Georgian Military Hotel (B,L,D) of the 15th-century Palace of Highway, an ancient strategic the Shirvanshahs followed by route through the Thursday, September 20 a briefing at the U.S. Embassy. that the Russian military turned Telavi / Sheki, HYATT REGENCY BAKU (B,L) into a modern road in the 19th Azerbaijan Drive past the ruins of watchtowers century to help control its newly Sunday, September 23 and customs houses along an conquered territory. Stop at Ananuri, Baku important ancient trade route a superb 16th-century fortress with Visit bizarre Yanar Dag, a natural across the border into Azerbaijan. massive walls and defensive towers. gas fire that has blazed continuously Arrive in the city of Sheki and visit Return to Tbilisi and spend this since it was accidentally ignited its summer palace and riverside evening sampling more delectable by a shepherd in 1950. Tour the fortress with Venetian stained- independently. National Museum of Fine Arts and glass windows. Spend the night RADISSON IVERIA HOTEL (B,L) the Historical Museum housed in a former caravanserai, a relic of in two of the wonderfully eclectic Sheki’s large silk industry. sheki Tuesday, September 18 mansions built for 19th-century / Telavi saray HOTEL (B,L,D) oil barons when Azerbaijan Enjoy a scenic drive to the province supplied more than half of the of , stopping en route at Friday, September 21 world’s oil. Enjoy an optional visit Shemakha / Baku the Cathedral where to the prehistoric petroglyphs at Depart early this morning for Baku, we meet with the resident nuns. Gobustan. Gather for a special stopping first at Shemakha, a Continue to the village of Gurjaani farewell reception and dinner this major trading center and former for a specially arranged lunch at a evening. HYATT REGENCY BAKU (B,L,D) capital of the Shirvanshahs. local home. Enjoy a -tasting Among the surviving buildings are at Tsinandali Winery whose oldest- Monday, September 24 a 10th-century mosque and a royal surviving bottle dates from 1814. Baku / U.S. mausoleum. Arrive in Baku early Continue to the city of Telavi and Check out of our hotel this morning this evening and check in to our check in to our hotel. Rcheuli and transfer to the airport for return hotel. HYATT REGENCY BAKU (B,L,D) Marani Hotel (B,L,D) flights to the U.S. (B) garni, Armenia

Yanar Dag, Azerbaijan

WHAT TO EXPECT We consider this program to be physically Information demanding and strenuous, suitable for travelers in excellent health with greater-than-average D ates stamina and an enthusiasm for adventurous travel September 8 to 24, 2012 (17 days) experiences. This program involves a great deal of travel in areas with a developing infrastructure. Daily Size activities include one to three miles of walking, often Limited to 34 participants on uneven and rocky terrain. In many instances stairs are unavailable or do not have handrails. Our Cost* journey at times requires several hours of travel $8,695 per person, double occupancy by motorcoach, the longest drives being up to 10 $10,375 per person, single occupancy hours. We make occasional rest stops, but often *Association nonmembers add $200 per person toilets are not available and nature’s facilities are more inviting and abundant than those that are Included manmade. Due to poor repair and some unpaved 15 nights in best-available hotel accommodations rural roads, travel may be slow at times. Medical 15 , 14 and 10 dinners treatment and care are not always available or up Welcome and farewell receptions Bottled water to U.S. standards. In many ways, the challenges of on excursions Gratuities to porters, guides this program are part of the learning experience. and drivers for all group activities All tours as Daytime temperatures in the Caucasus at this time described in the itinerary Transfers on program of year range from the low 50s (°F) to the high 70s, arrival and departure days Airport departure with chances of rain. We welcome travelers 15 years taxes Baggage handling at all hotels Visa of age and older on this program. for Azerbaijan Minimal medical, accident and evacuation insurance Educational program with lecture series and pre-departure materials, including recommended reading list, a selected book, map and travel information Services of our professional tour manager to assist you throughout the program

Not Included International and U.S. domestic airfare Passport and expedited visa fees Visa for Armenia (to be obtained upon arrival at the airport in Yerevan for approximately $10) Immunization costs and beverages other than those specified as included Transfers on days other than arrival and departure days Trip-cancellation/interruption and baggage insurance Excess-baggage charges Optional excursions or deviations from the scheduled tour Personal items such as email, telephone and fax calls, laundry and gratuities for nongroup services

maiden tower, Azerbaijan Etchmiadzin, Armenia A KHATCHKAR, ARMENIA

Terms & Conditions Deposit & Final Payment product offered in this brochure expenses due to delay or changes A $1,000 deposit is required to hold includes a special Waiver of Pre- in air or other services, sickness, space for this program. Complete Existing Conditions and cover- weather, strike, war, quarantine, and return the attached reservation age for Financial Insolvency and force majeure or other causes form or place your deposit online. Terrorist Acts if you postmark your beyond our control. All such losses Final payment is due 120 days insurance payment within 15 days or expenses will have to be borne by prior to departure. As a condition of the date listed on the confirma- the passenger as tour rates provide of participation, all confirmed tion letter. arrangements only for the time participants are required to sign stated. We reserve the right to make a Release of Liability. Eligibility such alterations to this published We encourage membership in the itinerary as may be deemed neces- Cancellations & Refunds Alumni Association as the program sary. The right is reserved to cancel Deposits and any payments are fully cost for nonmembers is $200 more any program prior to departure in refundable, less a $500-per-person than the members’ price. Parents which case the entire payment will cancellation fee, until 120 days prior and their children under 21 may be refunded without further obliga- to departure. After that date, refunds travel on one membership. For more tion on our part. The right is also can be made only if the program is information or to purchase a mem- reserved to decline to accept or re- sold out and your place(s) can be bership, visit alumni.stanford.edu/ tain any person as a member of the resold, in which case a $1,000-per- goto/membership or call (650) program. No refund will be made for person cancellation fee will apply. 725-0692. an unused portion of any tour unless We recommend trip-cancellation Responsibility arrangements are made in sufficient insurance; applications will be sent time to avoid penalties. Baggage is to you. The Stanford Alumni Association, Stanford University and our carried at the owner’s risk entirely. Insurance operators act only as agents for The airlines concerned are not to be Stanford Travel/Study provides all the passenger with respect to held responsible for any act, omis- travelers who are U.S. or Canadian transportation and exercise every sion or event during the time pas- citizens with minimal medical, care possible in doing so. How- sengers are not onboard their plane accident and evacuation coverage ever, we can assume no liability or conveyance. Neither the Alumni under our group-travel insurance for injury, damage, loss, accident, Association, Stanford University policy. Our group policy is intended delay or irregularity in connection nor our operators accept liability for to provide minimal levels of protec- with the service of any automobile, any carrier’s cancellation penalty tion while you are traveling on this motorcoach, launch or any other incurred by the purchase of a non- program. We strongly recommend conveyance used in carrying out this refundable ticket in connection with that you subscribe to optional program or for the acts or defaults the tour. Program price is based on baggage and trip-cancellation of any company or person engaged rates in effect in January 2012 and insurance. A brochure offering in conveying the passenger or in is subject to change without notice such insurance will be mailed with carrying out the arrangements of to reflect fluctuations in exchange your confirmation about one week the program. We cannot accept any rates, tariffs or fuel charges. after we receive your deposit. The responsibility for losses or additional

California Seller of Travel Program Registration #2048 523-50

Tel (650) 725-1093 FAX (650) 725-8675 Email [email protected] © COPYRIGHT 2012 STANFORD ALUMNI ASSOCIATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Printed on recycled, FSC-certified paper in the U.S.

Faculty Leader

Scott Pearson has been studying economic change in developing countries for 50 years. Between 1968 and 2002, Professor Pearson taught economic development and international trade at Stanford’s Research Institute. He has co-authored a dozen books, won awards for his research and teaching, and advised governments on food and agricultural policy. Since retiring, Scott has lectured “Scott is on 75 Travel/Study trips. His passion is to understand a teacher why empires and nation states have risen and fallen. He extraordinaire! will discuss the political and economic histories of Armenia, His presenta- Georgia and Azerbaijan from the 3rd millennium BCE to the present. tions gave all of us a better Professor, agricultural economics, Food Research understanding Institute, Stanford University, 1968–2002; served five years as director of this part of Dean’s Award for Teaching in the School of Humanities the world and and Sciences, 1978 its history.” MA, international relations, Johns Hopkins University PhD, economics, Harvard University Betsy Roering, Croatia Walk, 2009

STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY

Reservation Form Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan

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If this is a reservation for one person, please indicate: Mail completed form to address on mail panel I wish to have single accommodations. or fax to (650) 725-8675 or place your deposit online at alumni.stanford.edu/trip?armenia2012. OR I plan to share accommodations with: Please submit your reservation only once to ______avoid multiple charges to your account. OR I’d like to know about possible roommates. 7533 P A I D Association U.S. Postage U.S. Nonprofit Org. Stanford Alumni

t and CA 94305-6105 CA Stanford Travel/Study Stanford Frances Arrillaga C. Alumni Center Galvez326 Street Stanford, (650) 725-1093 A Crossroads The Cau c asus a 2012 24, 8 to September Azerbaijan Armenia, Georgia

“This extraordinary program was one of my BEST Stanford trips.” Camilla Chandler Frost, Eastern Turkey, Armenia and Georgia Suitcase Seminar, 2006

STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY