FRIDAY-SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008

Wooden monkey, 1951-53, toy design by Kay Bojesen, on show in Copenhagen.

Amsterdam London festival science “Holland Festival 2008” presents 35 “Dan Dare and the Birth of Hi-Tech productions of dance, literature, visual Britain” explores the role of technol- arts, theater, film, opera and music on ogy in shaping postwar Britain the theme of “Heaven and Earth.” through the science-fiction comic hero Greater Until June 22 Dan Dare. % 31-20-788-2100 Until Oct. 25, 2009 www.hollandfestival.nl % 44-870-8704-868 www.sciencemuseum.org.uk

Antwerp music history “Spitalfields Festival 2008” in London’s “Antwerp=America=Red Star Line—The East End features musical perfor- Tale of a People” looks at the history mances by Gabrieli Consort & Players, Moscow of the Red Star cruise line, which the Silk String Quartet and the Royal brought more than two million Euro- Academy of Music Sinfonia with pean emigrants to the U.S. between Stephen Hough. 1873 and 1934. Spitalfields Festival National Maritime Museum From June 2 to 20 Cultural treasures Until Dec. 28 % 44-20-7377-0287 % 32-3-201-9340 www.spitalfieldsfestival.org.uk in the capital’s museum.antwerpen.be/scheepvaart museum theater “Dickens Unplugged,” written and di- suburbs Barcelona rected by Adam Long, is a musical art comedy based on the life and works of Charles Dickens. “Lothar Baumgarten: autofocus retina” Comedy Theatre shows sculptures, wall drawings, Bookings until Sept. 22 books and films by the contemporary % 44-870-0606-637 German artist (born 1944). www.theambassadors.com/comedy MACBA-Museu d’Art Contemporani Barcelona Until June 15 Munich % 34-93-4120-810 music “Richard-Strauss-Days 2008” cele- www.macba.es brates the music of Richard Strauss in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, featuring the Berlin Bavarian Radio Symphony Orchestra; photography the Concert Orchestra Berlin; and the “Gazes and Desire—The Photographer Chamber Orchestra Munich. Herbert Tobias (1924-1982)” exhibits Richard-Strauss-Tage the 1950s and ’60s fashion work of Garmisch-Partenkirchen the German photographer alongside Until June 6 his portraits, cityscapes and erotic im- % 49-8821-9668-480 ages of men. www.strauss-tage.de Berlinische Galerie— Landesmuseum für Moderne Paris Kunst, Fotografie und Architektur photography Until Aug. 25 “Actors in Scene, Glances by Photogra- % 49-30-7890-2600 phers” traces the evolution of stage www.berlinischegalerie.de photography since the 1850s. Bibliothèque Nationale de art France—site Richelieu “Ernst Ludwig Kirchner—Master Until Aug. 24 sheets—Drawings from the Brücke-Mu- % 33-1-5379-5959 seum Berlin” shows 100 works of the www.bnf.fr German expressionist artist. Brücke-Museum art Brücke-Museum Berlin © Dr. Wolfgang Henze, Ingeborg Henze Ketterer Until Aug. 31 “ ‘Monumenta 2008’ Richard Serra— % 49-30-8312-029 ‘Man and Female Nude (Self-Portrait with Model),’ 1915, by Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, in Berlin. Promenade” features a new work for www.bruecke-museum.de the monumental nave of the Grand Palais: Mr. Serra’s sculptural installa- tion, “Promenade.” photography Danish Design Centre Until July 27 Until Jan. 11 Galeries Nationales du Grand Until Sept. 7 % 49-351-4914-2000 % 39-055-2388-709 “ ‘Man and Car’—Photography by Brig- Palais % 45-3369-3369 www.skd-dresden.de itte Kraemer” shows 40 black-and- www.polomuseale.firenze.it Until June 15 white and color photographs examin- www.ddc.dk % 33-1-4413-1717 ing the relationship between men and Dublin Frankfurt www.grandpalais.fr their cars. art art art Deutsches Technik Museum “Romantic Encounters: Constable and “Cut-Outs and Cut-Ups: Hans Christian “Fire and Spirit—Icons from the Trea- Vienna Until Nov. 2 the School of Eckersberg” exhibits five Andersen and William Seward Bur- sury of the Bulgarian Patriarchy” art % 49-30-9025-40 paintings by the English landscape roughs” shows 124 cut-out and cut-up shows 69 large-format icons, church “Paul Klee—The Play of Forms” shows www.dtmb.de painter John Constable (1776-1837), images and stencils by writers Hans objects and tapestries. 150 works by Swiss painter Paul Klee juxtaposing them with 16 landscape Christian Andersen (1805-1875) and Ikonen-Museum (1879-1940) in a retrospective. paintings from the Glyptotek’s Danish William Seward Burroughs Brussels Until June 15 Albertina Golden Age collection. (1914-1997). art & antique fair % 49-69-2123-6262 Until Aug. 10 “Brussels Oriental Art Fair 2008” fea- Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Irish Museum of Modern Art % 43-1-5348-30 www.ikonen-museum.frankfurt.de tures more than 30 exhibitors. Until June 22 Until June 29 www.albertina.at Brussels Oriental Art Fair % 45-3341-8141 % 353-1-6129-900 From June 4 to 8 www.glyptoteket.dk www.imma.ie Liverpool Source: ArtBase Global Arts News Service, WSJE research. % 32-2-344-4171 art www.boafair.be Dresden Florence “Gustav Klimt: Painting, Design and art science Modern Life in Vienna 1900” illus- WSJ.com Copenhagen “Canaletto: Views of the Canal Grande “The Medici and the Sciences—Instru- trates the artist’s role as the founder What’s on in Venice” shows veduta paintings of ments and Machines in the Grand Du- and leader of the Viennese Secession. design WSJ.com subscribers can see an Venice by Canaletto (1697-1768), in- Tate Gallery Liverpool “Living Wood” traces the 20th-century cal Collections” shows scientific instru- expanded version of the European cluding two recently restored works. Until Aug. 31 evolution of the Danish wood and fur- ments, such as sundials and propor- arts-and-culture calendar at tional compasses. % 44-151-7027-400 niture industry, covering toys to win- Gemäldegalerie Alte WSJ.com/Europe dows to luxury wood furniture. Meister—Zwinger Museo degli Argenti—Palazzo Pitti www.tate.org.uk Artistic journeys in Iceland Summer book roundup W16 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL v 8-12 | Cover story Travel 5 | Food & Drink Art

A toast to Robert Mondavi Mr. Wirth says he is most excited Contents by the latest addition to his artists’ Top Picks: Goya’s engravings High-stakes selling at Art Basel stable, rising Indian star Subodh 3 | Art Greater Moscow Gupta. Mr. Gupta’s “Still Steal Steel Cultural treasures in the capital’s suburbs ASEL COMMANDS center all media: painting, sculpture, draw- time off on a beach with bikini-clad no. 4” (2008), from a series of dis- | Books stage in the contemporary-art ings, installations, photography, beauties in the foreground torted photorealist paintings of tra- Backstage with Olafur Eliasson 6, 7 Bworld next week when galler- prints, video and computer art. ($50,000); and Canadian Rodney ditional Indian cooking vessels, will ies and collectors converge on the The event has also drawn several Graham’s mesmerizing five-minute ‘Untitled,’ be priced in the range of Œ650,000. Swiss city for the Art Basel fair. satellite fairs into its orbit: Liste for film of a spinning chandelier 2000, by One area of the fair that

and Hans-Ulrich Obrist t A summer reading Some 300 galleries will exhibit young artists; Scope and The Volta ($400,000). Louise shouldn’t be missed is Art Unlim- list with a global theme works by more than 2,000 artists at Show for emerging galleries with “The stakes are high at Art Basel Bourgeois. ited, a huge hall within Art Basel fea- 4 | Fashion cutting-edge art; and PrintBasel for because it is the ultimate barometer © Hauser & Wirth Zürich London turing works that are too big or com- graphic editions. of the gallery market,” says Iwan be bringing. plicated for booths in the main area. 13 | Taste Collecting Neil Wenman, director of art Wirth of Hauser & Wirth of Zurich His roster of artists this year in- Among such works this year will be On Style: MARGARET STUDER fairs at London’s Lisson Gallery, and London. cludes California’s Paul McCarthy a captivating video by Swiss artist says that this year Lisson will bring Mr. Wirth says he expects this with his grotesque-comic objects, Pipilotti Rist: an ethereal red- Too sexy for Girls just wanna have fun to Basel such contrasting works as year’s fair to attract an especially in- French-born American Louise Bour- headed woman’s journey out of para- the world’s leading 20th- and 21st- “Intermission” (2008) by Puerto ternational set of visitors, noting geois’s feminist pieces and Ameri- dise through a long graffiti-ridden

the office? t century-art fair. Art Basel includes Rico-based duo Jennifer Allora & that his gallery has had an unusually can installation artist Dan Graham tunnel. Projected onto the ceiling, it 15 | Art artists ranging from globally known Guillermo Calzadilla, a study of high number of inquiries from Rus- with his cool, mirrored architec- is best viewed while lying on the Decoding stars to up-and-comers working in American combat soldiers taking sians and Asians about what it will tural constructions. floor. eco fashion claims Collecting: t Art Basel DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES &ESTATES The price thinks big of an 16 | Time Off SOUTH WEST FRANCE Hermès Our arts and culture calendar STUNNING LOCATION beach towel t Ensemble of 2 attractive, renovated stone houses, salt water swimming pool, 39 acres. Panoramic views. On cover, the New Jerusalem Monastery’s Resurrection Cathedral near Moscow. LS207 830 000 Euros Above, Assumption Cathedral at the Holy Trinity-St. Sergius Monastery. (Photos: ITAR-TASS) WSJ.com tel: 00 33 553 95 97 28 www.lafitescholfield.com Short escapes Walking billboards A wine’s identity Elizabeth Blackshire Editor The best places in Asia Maria Sharapova’s Tiffany Finding melons and Craig Winneker Deputy editor Hamakua Coast, Big Island, Hawaii for a mini-break from earrings, and other sports minerals—or acetate— Carlos Tovar Art director 4.8 acres. 10 miles N. Hilo. Ocean Front. Fresh Fahire Kurt Weekend art director trade winds. Scenic views. Water, power, paved roads. $450,000. Other properties avail. HI, VA, a mega-city. stars’ accessories. in American Pinot Gris. Matthew Kaminski Taste page editor > WSJ.com/Asia > WSJ.com/WeekendJournal > WSJ.com/WeekendJournal Chile, TX. www.cplandco.com Questions or comments? Write to [email protected] Contact Mary Welborn [email protected] or (850)278-1000

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W2 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 W15 DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES &ESTATES v Art In Iceland, building bridges for art

URATOR Hans-Ulrich Obrist land has fantastic people, but wins tures. It’s really about the represen- and artist Olafur Eliasson have on the issue of landscape and such tation of space rather than depth in Cbeen discussing the nature of things. So I’ve been puzzled by the space. So there is not a strong tradi- collaboration andart formore than a struggle that people have in pinning tion of temporality there. decade. They met in the early 1990s down the actual heritage, as if au- and soon began visiting Iceland each thorship is about belonging to a I find that in Iceland there is a summer with a contingent of other place. There is no reason to underes- deep feeling of social intimacy and artists and thinkers to explore the timate the importance of having a at the same time the phenomenal history and a relationship which landscape and harsh climate can goes beyond the length of your own be distancing, so that in the end Backstage with life,andhavingfamilieswhetheryou you feel both things at once. are with them in the place where Mr. Obrist: I agree. I once had HANS-ULRICH OBRIST they are or not—this is what forms this amazing experience when we AND OLAFUR ELIASSON you and cultivates you and defines went to Eidar by car: I fell asleep for your opinions and so on. three hours, and when I woke up there was still the same glacier. landscape and share ideas, in the In fact, everybody here seems hope of spurring creativity. to know each other and even to be Olafur, the design of the Ser- Their latest project, part of the somehow related. pentine pavilion and much of your Reykjavik Arts Festival, is a more Mr. Eliasson: Well, the fact that work seems to be inspired by Ice- formal version of the gatherings. there is a size to the country that is land’s landscape. Called the Experiment Marathon Cathryn Drake comprehensible allows for thinking Mr.Eliasson: Yes, butIdon’t think Reykjavik, it brought together more Artist Olafur Eliasson and curator Hans-Ulrich Obrist; below, ‘Table Piece One’ about space in a different way. It has it’s fair to say that this is just about than 50 artists, architects, filmmak- being performed at the Experiment Marathon Reykjavik by (from left) Sebastian to dowiththatyoucan somewhat re- Icelandic nature. The formal lan- ers and academics to demonstrate Mekas, Jonas Mekas and Benn Northover. late to scale by a measure of tempo- guage in my work is very much in- the intersection between art and sci- rality.You would refer to the kiosk as spiredbynaturalphenomenarelated ence. Among the participants were being ten minutes away—in a bigger to Iceland and other Nordic coun- Tanzanian architect David Adjaye, Mr. Obrist: The visits became Mr. Obrist: I think it is also a country, like America, you always tries. But obviously the language British musician Brian Eno, Indian very regular after 1999, when I had a small-country syndrome. I come talk about the miles. doesn’t say anything by definition; it artist Abhishek Hazra and Lithua- visit from Jonni [Sigurjon Sighvats- from Switzerland, and when you Theotherthingisthatthehistory isverymuchaboutwhatyouthensay nian filmmaker Jonas Mekas. son, director of the Eidar Art Cen- come from a small country you prob- of Iceland has to do with the journey, with this language, which is not The two-day performance this tre]. He said he was doing this think ably travel more than when you which was always a question of aboutIceland,it’saboutotherissues. month took place at the Reykjavik tank in Iceland and wanted Olafur come from a big one. You are more time—it was never really a question So even though art history has a ten- Art Museum, where an accompany- and I to form the team and think inclined to venture into other cul- ofdistance.Thepotentialofthejour- dency to focus on the form rather ing exhibition is on display how one could organize a journey in tures, other geographies. ney lies in what it allows for in terms than the content, what you say must through Aug. 17. Iceland each summer. We thought it There is also a link to literature of understanding and the narrative stand in front of how you say it. The forum followed a similar could be interesting if it was more in Iceland. I have never been in a of the social world, which is where People who saw the pavilion in event last summer in London at the like an experimental conference country where there are so many storytelling comes from. London will know that it was about Serpentine Gallery, in a temporary where you invite artists. novelists and poets. At the same The great history of American temporality, about physicality, the pavilion inspired by Nordic land- Mr. Eliasson: We brought to- time there is this strong link to vi- landscape photography, which is so way that the body constituted spa- forms designed by Mr. Eliasson and gether a group of contemporary art sual art. So in terms of aiming at rich, is very much about iconic pic- tial questions. Norwegian artist Kjetil Thorsen. andfilm and culture thinkers, and we this idea of making bridges between Mr. Obrist is the director of interna- eventually just had a very long hang- disciplines we’ve been recording a tional projects at the gallery. out, playing football, eating, fishing, lot of interviews with novelists and The 40-year-old Mr. Obrist, who doing journeys and talking. But we poets and composers. is Swiss, has organized more than did artwork, and we showed each It is also one of the reasons that 150 exhibitions. He travels con- other the projects we were working Olafur and I wanted to bring the Ex- stantly, inviting artists to bring on. The time we spent on the road periment Marathon here to Iceland. their portfolios to his hotel lobbies was productive. So we’d journey It has to do with the fact that we and interviewing top artists from across the highlands, sometimes in both believe we must go beyond the cities around the world in an effort thecar, sometimeshiking, and some- fear of pooling knowledge, as [Hun- to take the pulse of the global con- times we had a little plane pick us up garian theorist] György Kepes al- temporary art scene. on natural airstrips. ways said. If you want to under- Mr. Eliasson, born in Copen- stand forces that are effective in vi- hagen in 1967 to Icelandic parents, Hans has talked about the idea sual arts, it is important to look at is known for installations, photo- that although you return home what happens in science, architec- graphs and sculptures that create from a place on the same road, you ture and literature. In Iceland that environments dealing with the per- see everything differently, not exchange seems to be a given more ception of light, nature and space. A only because your physical per- than in most other places. major retrospective of his work, spective has changed but also be- “Take Your Time,” is showing at the cause the narrative of the journey Olafur,you grew up in Denmark Museum of Modern Art and P.S.1 continues forward infinitely, no? and represented the country in the Contemporary Art Center in New Mr. Obrist: It goes along with the Venice Biennale, so do you really York. Among other projects, he is idea of intensely revisiting the same consider yourself Icelandic? now building four giant waterfalls places, which has become, at least in Mr. Eliasson: The truth is that I under the Brooklyn Bridge and my travels, an incredibly important was born in Denmark and primarily along the Brooklyn waterfront, a part. I mean, I’ve been to China 15 raised there by Icelandic parents, public art commission that will run times, to Iceland 15 times. To me but all my family were here [in Ice- June 26 through Oct. 13. that is more meaningful than going land], and I spent my summers, We spoke to the pair this month to hundreds of places only once. Christmas holidays and vacations at the Reykjavik Art Museum. here. I really treasure and enjoy both —Cathryn Drake You have said that Iceland as a countries. Denmark has no particu- place is part of the global dialogue lar landscapes, but there’s a great You two have a longstanding re- andyet verylocalat thesametime. amount of fantastic people. And Ice- lationship with Iceland and have traveled frequently here together. How did that begin? A New GlASS For eVerY dAY Hans-Ulrich Obrist: We met in the early 1990s when I invited clASSic riedel Bowl SHAPeS Olafur to [contemporary art bien- nial] Manifesta. That was the begin- STroNG, liGHT ANd BAlANced ning of our conversations about Ice- land, and then later we started to diSHwASHer SAFe come here almost every summer. SPArKliNG NoN-leAd crYSTAl Olafur Eliasson: Iceland became a trajectory that we could share. I SUrPriSiNGlY AFFordABle come here roughly once a month, be- ing Icelandic myself. I used to have a house here, but I sold it to stay more nomadic when I’m here. Which is how Hans and I developed this no- madic stage of actually traveling www.riedel.com through space rather than sitting in a space talking about it. © Karl Petersson

W14 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 W3 v Fashion v Taste China’s Prodigy Market

By Barbara Jepson Prize at the age of 6, Peng Peng Girls’ Night Out is one of three students featured Thirty-two years after the end as soloists during the tour by the By Pia Catton New York Post to advertise (in music. The driver—who is wear- of its Cultural Revolution, China 93-member Juilliard Orchestra, The ‘Sex’ effect on office dressing hot-pink type) a one-night-only ing a tank top that shows off her is buzzing with once-forbidden two of whom were born in China. “Sex and the City: The Movie” shopping event dubbed “Girls’ perfectly toned arms—gets out of Western classical music activity, Concerts in Beijing, Suzhou and heads into its opening weekend to- Night Out.” The ad promised en- the car and tosses the keys to a building world-class concert halls Shanghai, led by Zhang Xian, asso- ET’S TALK ABOUT “Sex” for a Richard Billion, legal director for women” surveys shows attractively day. And it’s a sure bet that the- tertainment, treats and “summery valet. “You’ll take care of my and expanding its conservatory ciate conductor of the New York moment. credit-score developer Fair Isaac detailed blazers, collared or mod- aters will be populated by swarms refreshments” during the spree. baby, right?” she coos. facilities. According to Chinese Philharmonic and a graduate of L With this week’s opening Corp., wrote that distracting estly high-necked shirts, and strik- of overexcited, excessively The W Hotel chain has created The camera pulls back to re- music-industry executives, more Beijing’s Central Conservatory of of the “Sex and the City” movie, get clothes reduce a saleswoman’s credi- ing scarves or necklaces that dis- groomed gals who will see the a Girls Getaway weekend intended veal that the driver and some of than 40 million youngsters are Music, include tributes to China’s ready for a flood of body-baring, bility. “I become very suspicious of tract attention from what lies be- flick, then splurge on rounds of for bachelorette parties, birthdays her glamorous friends, wearing currently studying the piano or recent earthquake victims. Fac- haute-priced fashion inspired by the product or service being sold if low. The bold necklace often plays sugary cocktails. It won’t be the or just some good old-fashioned party dresses and high heels, are violin. “The joke in some cities,” ulty members will offer master the 300-some outfits worn in the a woman representing the seller in the role of a man’s necktie. first time they’ve had such an fun in the city. Well, not exactly pregnant. The voice-over brags says pianist Gary Graffman, classes in piano, violin, oboe and film by the characters Carrie, Sa- any capacity is not conservatively The clothes of powerful women, evening. This is a girls’ night out. old-fashioned. The package, which that the car is big enough for six. former president of the elite Cur- woodwind quintet. mantha, Charlotte and Miranda. dressed,” Mr. Billion wrote. executives like Angela Braly of Well- And even if it doesn’t take place at starts at $509, was created in “Or 12, depending on how you tis School of Music in Philadel- China’s booming economy and Hollywood and the fashion indus- I suspect that many women are point, Anne Mulcahy of Xerox and night or “out,” it’s become a sacred partnership with the Los Angeles- look at it.” The message is an in- phia, “is that if you see a kid on one-child policy have created a try are gearing up themed fashion sabotaging their own career ad- Irene Rosenfeld of Kraft, are more part of American female culture. based Booty Par- clusive one, accord- the street who is not carrying a rising middle class with a pas- vancement without realizing it. about subtlety than overstatement. As a television series, “Sex lor, which de- ing to branding ex- violin case, it’s because he or she sion for education. “Parents have Dressing suitably is a social skill— The flair, where there is some, lies in and the City” relied on the regu- scribes itself as “a Single women pert Karl Heiselman, is studying the piano.” become intensely focused on On Style and social skills are necessary to ad- the curved cut of a collar, the twist lar meetings of the four leading sexy beauty prod- CEO of Wolff Olins: Not surprisingly, this burgeon- their child,” suggests Mr. Polisi. actresses—over drinks, lavish din- ucts and lifestyle with disposable “It says you don’t CHRISTINA BINKLEY vance on the corporate ladder. of the jewelry, the weave of a blouse. ing prodigy market is of great in- “The areas they work on are the Is a double standard at work? Un- It is style, not fashion. ners or the old-reliable brand.” It provides income party have to be single or terest to the sciences, math doubtedly. Men who dress inappro- brunch—to advance the plot. Guts in-home parties together at the live in Manhattan to leading inter- and music; shows and an advertising blitz to priately can also get sidelined, but were spilled. Plans were hatched. that spark conver- have girls’ night out.” national con- the musical ex- help us all look like “Sex” heroines. New Line Cinema/Everett Collection it’s harder for them to fail. The male Arbitrage Tawdry aphorisms were spoken. sation about sex drop of a On the flip side of servatories. perience is There are even online guides to Above, the characters in ‘Sex and the wardrobe is an armor that disguises But even if the conversations and relationships. cellphone. the marketing coin is Faculty mem- seen as an im- dressing like your favorite charac- City.’ Powerful real-world women like vulnerable body parts while sending The price of an were too witty for real life, the The home ver- that going out with bers have long portant ele- ter. Patricia Field, the show’s cos- Erin Callan (right), chief financial subtle signals. A gray suit suggests group outings were not just televi- sion is based on the girls can be a functioned as ment in the tume designer, is selling the movie’s officer of Lehman Brothers, dress hidden power, a blue Oxford button- Hermès beach towel sion clichés. They reflected urban the Tupperware form of business net- informal tal- child’s intellec- fashions—such as a $3,000 conservatively, with just a few bold down is hard-working, and French life. Single, childless women with party model: A “Bootician”—who working. Ms. Gardner is part of a ent scouts as tual and social Swarovski crystal-encrusted hand- accessories such as necklaces. cuffs rule Wall Street. Women don’t disposable incomes go out to- makes a commission on the sale group of 20 to 30 women in film, they travel upbringing.” bag shaped like the Eiffel Tower, have an easily deciphered fashion gether at the drop of a cellphone. of designer sex toys, sexy beauty television and other creative around the Parental in- which her Web site proclaims is this code, which just makes it easier to The gathering could include a products and more—leads the dis- fields who meet once a month for world perform- volvement is year’s “It bag.” were more trashy than liberating. make a big mistake. meal, and there’s often a certain cussion and games. In the hotel dinner. “Now that women are go- ing concerts, vital for the version, the Bootician can set up ing out there and forging their As anyone who lived through it As Carrie might write in one of Clothes can determine whether amount of pampering involved, giving master development own paths,” she said, “I can testify, the TV show “Sex and her columns: Has sexy office attire you land a job commanding the head too, such as manicures, classes or serv- of talent. “In pedicures or massages. think there is a desire for the City” was wildly influential over gone a step too far? Women now feel of the conference table. Nancyjane ing on compe- Asian societ- It’s nightlife, though, camaraderie and support.” the past decade. It not only intro- empowered to be girlie, flash cleav- Goldston, founder and CEO of the tition juries. ies,” notes Yo- that sets up the biggest In the past, women may duced a generation of women to age or have a rollicking good time. UXB, an advertising and branding “They meet heved Kaplin- contrast between how a have spent more time in sin- Getty Images high-fashion brands like Blumarine But how liberating is that if these agency in Los Angeles, told me re- these young sky, head of City Local currency Œ single girl today spends gle-sex settings, thought it Pianist Peng Peng. and Chloé and pushed the concept of freedoms fail to advance women’s cently that she sees too many job ap- artists and are the piano fac- her 30s and how her was less often by choice. mixing pricey brands with flea-mar- push for better jobs and salaries? plicants who arrive in overexposing New York $553 Œ351 enthralled ulty at Juil- mother spent the same Full-time mothers certainly ket finds; it also fostered pride in Of course, the complexities of clothes. To these young people, “I London £290 Œ364 with their playing,” says Joseph liard and artistic director of its years of her life. “The congregated with other feminine friendships and pursuits. sexism go well beyond how women think it’s freedom of expression— Polisi, president of the Juilliard Pre-College division, “the kids are Hong Kong HK$4,600 Œ374 whole girls-going- mothers and children. Work- The show promoted the idea that dress. But many women seem un- ‘Take me for what I am or it’s your much more disciplined and geared out-in-a-pack thing is to- ing women from a different School in New York. successful women could take a liber- aware that liberation comes from ac- loss,’ ” she said. She doesn’t hire Paris Œ380 Œ380 towards achievement from a very tally foreign to my era spent time together But the size and caliber of ated attitude toward fashion; they tual power, not the power to wear them: She says she doesn’t have time Brussels Œ391 Œ391 young age compared to the aver- mom,” said Elizabeth when pools of secretaries China’s talent pool has led some could dress like women at work in- bold clothes. to teach employees what to wear. “It age American or European child.” Frankfurt Œ400 Œ400 Gardner, 35, executive di- were common. But now that American music schools to go stead of looking like they were copy- After a recent column on sexy subliminally says that you’re not seri- She also theorizes that, because Tokyo ¥75,600 Œ464 rector of the New York coed workplaces are the further. The Juilliard Orchestra Hiroko Masuike of the subtleties required in read- ing men. But as the show’s fashion evening clothes at business events, I ous,” Ms. Goldston says. International Latino Film norm, the urge to visit with gives the first performance of its ing calligraphy, Asian children de- influence extended into the work- received an outpouring of email work. One California man com- So how do women strike the Size: 90 cm X 150 cm Festival. “When I first one’s girlfriends at night seven-concert tour in Beijing to- velop visual acuity to discern de- place, some people felt that such about smart, well-educated women plained in an email about his psy- right balance when it comes to Prices, including taxes, as provided by moved to the city, she takes on a new sense of ref- day, its first appearance in China daring looks—regularly baring bo- wearing the kind of clothing in- chologist’s bared cleavage during power dressing? A review of the pho- retailers in each city, averaged and since 1987. Last November, Juil- tails in musical scores at an early converted into euros. would say: ‘In my genera- uge, as well as opportunity. soms, midriffs and upper thighs— spired by “Sex and the City” to their sessions. tos in several “50 most powerful tion, we just did not go Ms. Gardner is also one liard signed an exchange agree- age. Those who speak so-called out to bars in packs. of five women tapped by en- ment with the eminent Shanghai “tonal languages” like Mandarin Most women met their trepreneur and buzz mar- Conservatory of Music. Chinese, where fluctuations in vo- husbands in college.’” keter Gabrielle Bernstein, In 2005, violin pedagogue Kurt cal pitch help determine meaning, Helen Gurley Brown 28, when she needed to get Sassmannshaus founded the Great may also benefit from this form of may have disagreed the word out about her cli- Wall International Music Academy ear training. Shades of green: Decoding eco fashion’s claims with the then-common ent Origine, a nightclub and in Beijing with the help of the Uni- The work ethic is evident at notion that women had party space under the SoHo versity of Cincinnati College-Con- the highly selective music middle restaurant FR.OG. Ms. Bern- schools affiliated with conservato- By Ray A. Smith to land a husband by servatory of Music, where he Bamboo Cruelty free wool Organic cotton graduation day, but in stein’s strategy was to ask heads the string department. ries in Shanghai and Beijing. Hu OR THOSE who want to look chic Yongyan, artistic director of the Who’s doing it: Linda Loudermilk, Who’s doing it: Fast-fashion Who’s doing it: her 1962 book, “Sex and her most connected girl- Some students chosen for the while saving the planet, there are EOS Orchestra at the Central Con- F Lara Miller, Bamboosa Loomstate, eco the Single Girl,” she friends to each host a din- academy’s four-week summer pro- more green fashion choices now than retailer H&M; designer servatory and music director des- from Levi Strauss, frowned on bars. If ner at FR.OG for 10, fol- gram ultimately apply to the Col- ever before. The trouble is, it is hard to The claim: Bamboo grows rapidly, brands Hugo Boss and ignate of the three-year-old with little water and no Perry Ellis Nike, Stella you’re in a bar, even lowed by a party for 30 to lege-Conservatory. Other music figure out which clothing really makes Corbis Qingdao Symphony, says children McCartney with another girl, men 100 people downstairs in schools send their admissions di- a difference. pesticides. It can be harvested The claim: People for the who win admittance to these will think you’re lonely. the nightclub. rectors on recruitment tours to Though many retailers sell clothes every three to four years, and it Ethical Treatment of The claim: Because a Mojo Makeover workshop for boarding schools practice six breaks down in landfills. Animals wants apparel it’s grown without “Therefore you must be distress the guests. Dana B. Myers For Ms. Bernstein, bringing leading Asian cities, including that claim to be green, there’s no one women together was a matter of hours a day and are groomed to Recycled materials The trade-off: It takes Fair trade/Helping makers to boycott merino pesticides, organic merchandise which can be had founded the Booty Parlor in 2004 Beijing and Shanghai. standard for Earth-friendliness. following in her mother’s foot- enter college-level conservatories. Who’s doing it: Bagir, wool produced in Australia cotton is more cheaply than other goods.” with her husband, Charlie. Since “One of the main reasons “There are standards for growing or- harsh chemicals and lots of developing countries steps. “My mom was hosting wom- Is there concern about a talent Patagonia, Timberland by sheep farmers who considered Girls’ night out has become a then, it has grown to include 200 American conservatories can at- ganic cotton or for parts of the process energy to turn stiff bamboo Who’s doing it: Edun, Fair en’s circles at my house. She’s a drain in China? Mr. Zhang and stalks into fibers that can be ward off flesh-eating preferable to the marketing concept—when two or Booticians at the ready in 42 tract our students,” says Zhang but not for the total garment,” says The claim: Use of recycled Indigo and Swati Argade connector. I was taught that creat- Mr. Polisi note that many of materials saves energy, woven into silky fabrics. “It’s flies by cutting out conventional kind. more women are out together, states and 15 full-time employees. Xianping, vice president of the Sass Brown, an assistant professor at The claim: Manufacturing ing a community for women was a those who study abroad return to reduces carbon-dioxide not a chemical-free fiber,” says patches of the animals’ The trade-off: Ms. Myers explains: “It’s a way Shanghai Conservatory of Music New York’s Fashion Institute of Tech- in Africa, India and Peru there’s money to be made off of big deal,” she said, recalling that teach or perform in their native emissions and keeps waste Peter Hauser, a professor of skin—a practice the Certified organic for women to come together and and a longtime faculty member, nology who specializes in sustainabil- helps workers in them. Just last week, Bloom- in the 1980s her mother went to country. But it will take another out of landfills. Bagir uses textile chemistry at North farmers have agreed to cotton is in short talk about sex and relationships “...is that they offer them more ity in fashion. developing economies. ingdale’s bought a full page in the “Take It or Break It” parties at the decade or so to build sufficient Carolina State University. stop by the end of 2010. supply, representing less and share with one another.” in scholarships than we do, not What are shoppers to do? Should recycled plastic bottles to home of a friend who was a pot- audiences in China to fill classical The trade-off: Remote than 1% of total production. just tuition but living expenses. they favor an apparel maker like Tim- make ECOGIR men’s suits; Bottom line: Though some The trade-off: Until In her view, “Sex and the City” ter. “You could take the pottery or music concerts on a regular basis. berland, which takes steps to reduce Patagonia does the same for environmentalists say bamboo production requires someone comes up with a To be certified organic, helped lay the groundwork for However, the most attractive ele- In the meantime, many Chinese long-distance shipping Pepper . . . and Salt break it, like a releasing ritual.” its carbon footprint, including using re- outdoor clothing. is preferable to better alternative, the cotton must grow in soil that her business. “Everybody is think- ment for our students is the op- musicians will find more lucrative and thus more CO2 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL The notion sounds almost cycled materials and planting trees? Timberland’s “Earthkeepers” synthetics and farmers say they must cut has been chemical free for ing about girls’ nights and bond- portunity to feel the atmo- jobs in their adopted lands. emissions, says F.I.T.’s three years, the U.S. quaint. Maybe there were some Or a company that produces goods lo- boots have soles made of 30% conventional the animals to treat a ing,” she said. “It’s not about be- sphere, to learn Western music Mr. Hu ponders the brain-drain Prof. Brown. Edun CEO Agriculture Department tears and laughter among the cally, so they don’t have to be shipped? recycled rubber and linings cotton, the use life-threatening condition. ing a feminist. Women are feeling in Western countries.” question. “On the one hand, if Christian Kemp-Griffin says. Dyes used to color the pots and the pottery shards—and Or an outfit like pop star Bono’s Edun made of 70% recycled of chemicals Bottom line: If this practice in control. Women are feeling While European capitals offer they go to a conservatory like Juil- says the company is fabric may contain toxic then the casseroles were wrapped that tries to ease poverty by making material. in bamboo bothers you, stay away quite free. And they want to talk more historical surroundings, liard, that’s a blessing,” says the trying to minimize substances, though. up, the children were collected, garments in Africa? The trade-off: Many compa- processing from merino wool for now. about it.” Of course, many women and everybody went home happy. American conservatories are conductor. “On the other hand, shipping during the Bottom line: Ask manufactur- Are fabrics made of organic cotton, nies don’t use 100% recycled isn’t very simply use these gatherings as an Women today have more op- noted for their expressive free- the People’s Republic of China manufacturing process. ers, or check their Web sites, bamboo or seaweed intrinsically bet- materials. Instead, they environmen- excuse to indulge, “to spend more tions available to them for letting dom. A U.S. education, says spends a lot of money to have a Bottom line: If you sell to to see if their cotton is ter than other materials? What about blend it with other materials tally friendly, time on yourself,” as the women’s off steam. They can mix up their 15-year-old pianist Peng Peng, young music student go from mid- a global market, it’s certified organic, what the rest of the manufacturing process— to make a garment softer or Dr. Hauser magazines often suggest. nail color on a mani-pedi combo who left a coveted spot at the dle school to senior high. By the impossible to work with portion of it is organic and everything from how the raw material enhance performance. says. The spirit of being in control or enjoy a $2,000 Pilates retreat Shanghai Conservatory’s music time the student is ready to be- local communities in what kind of dye was used. is processed to how it is dyed, treated Bottom line: Any use of Ericka Burchett/WSJ; Alamy and free and a little bit indulgent to Mexico with their girlfriends. primary school at the age of 10 come a young star at the college disadvantaged regions and sewn? The answers suggest that recycled materials is a is captured in a recent television But have we really come so far to study at the Juilliard Pre-Col- level in China, he or she may be a and also have a small even the most environmentally com- positive, requiring less advertisement for the Chrysler from breaking clay pots? lege, “leaves the right blanks for star at Juilliard instead.” mitted designers and manufacturers energy to process than carbon footprint, Ms. “If you want to see what I look Pacifica. In the ad, the camera students to express their own Brown says. at times must make trade-offs. natural fibers. like while I’m working, I have a pans over six women in a Pacifica. Ms. Catton is the cultural editor feelings in without hesitation.” Ms. Jepson writes about classi- few videos posted on YouTube.” They’re laughing and listening to of the New York Sun. Winner of a Piano Prodigy cal music for the Journal.

W4 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 W13 v Travel v Food & Drink

Sports and sightseeing in Moscow’s suburbs TopPicks: in Paris, Goya’s engraved visions Paris n art Outdoor sports In a clear and impressive demonstra- tion of the passing of the artistic T IS NO WONDER many of Mos- torch from one generation to the cow’s 10.5 million denizens next, the “Goya Engraver” exhibit at Ileave town every summer for the Petit Palais opens with engrav- suburban holiday dachas. The coun- ings by Rembrandt, Velázquez and tryside around the metropolis is Tiepolo that were models for the filled with lakes and forests of birch, young Francisco Goya y Lucientes the silvery-white tree that epito- (1746-1828), and it ends with mizes Russian rural beauty. Among works by Delacroix, Manet, Odilon Muscovites’ favorite pastoral pas- Redon and others directly inspired times are horseback riding, skiing by their great Spanish predecessor. and fishing. In between, the exceptional Moscow Stud Farm No. 1, 35 kilo- show brings together for the first meters southwest of the city, was Robert Mondavi at his time 210 of Goya’s own works on once a central source of horses for winery in Oakville, California, paper from two private collections the Red Army’s cavalry. Founded in

in a photo from 2001. that were separately donated to © Petit Palais/Roger-Viollet 1924, it was the only auctioning the Petit Palais and the French Na- Corbis ground where foreign buyers could tional Institute of Art History, along Above, ‘The Caprices, Plate 62, buy domestic breeds. Today, it is an with several rare prints from the Volaverunt’ (‘They Have Flown’), idyllic, wooded landscape for train- Bibliothèque Nationale. Simply and from 1799, by Francisco Goya; ing, trail riding, countryside walks beautifully presented, it offers a below ‘Homage to Goya, Plate 5, A and even rides in troika carriages. A toast to a wine pioneer unique retrospective of Goya’s four Strange Juggler,’ from 1885, by Visitors here can ride Orlov Trot- powerful graphic series: “The Ca- Odilon Redon. ters, a breed developed in Russia in HE FIRST TIME WE traveled they were widely available. Unlike are no better than jug wines? The prices,” “The Disasters of War,” “Bull- the late 19th century and known for to California together, more some later cult wines, whose appeal winery was sold to Constellation fighting” and “The Disparates.” its speed and stamina. The quick Tthan 30 years ago, our ulti- was that they were hard to find, Brands in 2004. Begun in 1793, after the illness called The Proverbs), produced to- trot makes the horses well suited to mate destination was a shrine: the Mondavi wines were accessible in On the same day that Mr. Mon- that left the artist almost totally ward the end of his life, in exile in troikas. The stable has a statue of its A troika driven by Russian champion Alexander Pankov at Moscow Stud Farm No. 1. Top right, a mountain biking course at Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa Val- every way, from availability to taste. davi died, our daughter Zoë spent deaf, the Caprices (Los Caprichos) Bordeaux, Goya returns to nightmar- most famous Orlov Trotter, Kvad- Yakhroma resort. Lower right, during the winter, a Skijoring race at the resort. ley. Along the way, we spent two They were democratic wines, and her last day in high school and our are wild flights of dark fantasy— ish phantoms and monsters. They rat, who held the record as the fast- nights in San Francisco. On the first democratic in the best sense. They daughter Media packed up her dorm skeletal hags flirting coquettishly were never published in his lifetime, est Orlov in the 3,200-meter race night, we ate at Ernie’s, where we were wines that we could reach, but room for the trip home after her with their mirrors, a seated donkey and the plates were discovered in from 1950 to 1986, and sired 600 off- If a sleigh ride is more your pace, ery winter weekend to groomed more common in Russia, downhill drank a 1974 Mondavi Reserve Cab- they made us stretch a little, think a freshman year. There were so many gazing at a book of donkey por- his country home, the “House of ITAR-TASS spring around the Soviet Union. three-horse troikas, as well as two- slopes blanketed with snow, com- skiing is gaining popularity. ernet Sauvignon that created such a little, grow a little. pages turning we could feel the traits in “Back to His Ancestors,” a the Deaf Man,” only after the death The farm’s territory includes or single-horse wagons, are avail- plete with piped in Euro lounge mu- During the summer, when the re- wooded shore, which are dotted potent memory in our life together With each passing year, we really breeze. What could be more appro- man dozing at a table haunted by of his son Javier in 1854. Once pub- grassy fields and woods, four are- able. The troika’s grace lies in the sic. The slopes are lit, so skiers can gion has up to 15 hours of sunlight, with whimsical sculptures made of did drink a 1974 Mondavi Cabernet priate than opening our last bottle malevolent owls and menacing bats lished, along with all of the earlier nas, and the upper course of the three horses’ staggered pace: The stay until 2 a.m. tourists swim or go mini-golfing at birchwood. Strawberries abound in on our anniversary. We know, for in- of 1974 Robert Mondavi Cabernet? in “The Sleep of Reason Engenders series they provided a “beacon,” Moscow River, clean enough for a middle animal trots while the side Yakhroma is perfect for novices, Volen. At Yakhroma, you can rent a the summer and mushrooms in the Tastings stance, that the bottles we drank on This wasn’t one we’d had all Monsters.” said Baudelaire, for the Romantics dip. On a recent afternoon, the in- horses gallop. If you’re lucky, Alex- with wide, gentle slopes, including bike to try the Nord Shor Extreme fall for picking. our second and fourth anniversa- these years—we never could have Napoleon’s invasion of Spain in and upcoming 19th-century artists, door manege was alive as students ander Pankov, a Russian troika one for beginners’ lessons, and mountain-biking course. Both Volen In the winter, fishermen in fur- DOROTHY J. GAITER ries both seemed slightly tired, imagined we’d need 30 of them, but 1808 was followed by a popular up- as is documented by Delacroix’s il- and trainers practiced their canters champion and one of the stable’s ready instructors at reasonable and Yakhroma have log cabins to lined gloves and thick, warm camou- AND JOHN BRECHER while the bottle on our third, in time does fly when you’re sharing rising, French reprisals and in 1814 lustrations for Faust, Redon’s Surre- and jumps. staff, will drive your troika or even rates (900 rubles per person per rent; Yakhroma’s 13 Stepanovskoye flage jackets—they sell cheaply in 1982, was, as we put it, “Great! Huge wine together. A generous friend the return of the fiercely repressive alist visions and Manet’s superb “Ex- The stables house 500 horses; be- teach a lesson in the delicate Rus- hour, or about Œ24). Volen, on an ad- Inns are each a cabin with three Moscow’s markets—ice fish from fruit, overwhelming pepper, still gave us this bottle—the Reserve, monarchy of Ferdinand VII. The “Di- ecution of Emperor Maximilien.” sides the Orlov Trotters there are sian art. To request a ride or a les- jacent property a 10-minute stroll rooms, three bathrooms and a pri- the snow-covered surface. that we decided to open a 1974 Mon- could use some years. Massive, which was aged in barrel for 30 sasters of War” was Goya’s re- As if all this weren’t enough, the mainly Russian Trotters, Trakeh- son, call a day in advance across the Kamenka River, has vate sauna, for 24,000 rubles a A day rate of 3,000 rubles in- davi Cabernet every year on our an- fruity nose you could smell across months—a few years ago, from his sponse—stark, bleak, cruel images visitor-friendly show also offers ners and Hanovers. Look for Alba- (% 7-495-634-81-77). steeper slopes for advanced begin- night on weekends. cludes any catch of up to 10 kilo- niversary. The second night, at a Chi- the table, with lots of oak overtones. own cellar, and it was in outstand- that have never been surpassed in wall-panel introductions to each tross, an Arabian that Russian Presi- The Yakhroma, Volen and ners. Stepanovo, three kilometers Fishing for carp, perch and pike grams in total. Beyond that, each ki- nese restaurant called the Imperial Orange tint at the edges. Big, incredi- ing shape, with a high fill. their condemnation of all warfare. “I segment in French, Spanish and En- dent Vladimir Putin gave the farm’s Stepanovo ski resorts are clustered away, has a longer, bumpier ride on is popular in the many natural and logram is charged per type of fish. Palace, we had a Mondavi Fumé bly rich, complex and peppery. It was clear from the nose the mo- saw this,” the artist’s caption for glish, and a small side gallery dem- riding school in 2005, with the condi- about 60 kilometers north of Mos- its one-kilometer run. The parks stocked lakes around Moscow. At No license is needed. Before visitors Blanc that was so perfect with the Eaten with veal roast.” ment we opened the long, intact one of the 82 works in the series, onstrating the various techniques tion that only the best students were cow, in the Klinsko-Dmitrovskaya also offer tobogganing, ice-skating, Sabi, for example, 25 kilometers leave, park managers weigh their meal that we still remember what It wasn’t just the Cabernet. Dur- cork that the wine was still good. might stand for them all. But as of copper-plate engraving—etching, to ride it (director Alexander Filin mountains. tubing, sledding and snowmobiling. southeast of Moscow, fishermen catch and determine the amount to we ate: shrimp with rice paper. ing a romantic weekend in 1983 at The color was orange and light red, passionate as his feelings were dry point, burin, aquatint—and li- says tourists can ride the horse). Streams of Muscovites arrive ev- Although cross-country has been cast lines from docks along the be paid. When Robert Mondavi died two the Vista Hotel in the World Trade with fiery highlights. When we first about conveying the horror of what thography. —Judy Fayard weeks ago at the age of 94, the obitu- Center, the sommelier noted our in- opened it, the wine still had a core of he had seen, notes curator Maryline Until June 8 aries talked about how he had revital- terest in wine and sold us some- vibrant fruit with a great sense of Assante di Panzillo, his technique % 33-1-53-43-40-00 ized the American wine industry and thing from his personal cellar: a rare rich, sweet earth. There was cedar remained rigorous and masterful, www.petitpalais.paris.fr that is certainly true. But to people of half-bottle of Mondavi 1978 “Botry- and a slight tone of citrus. It was with no hint of expressionism. a certain age—and we happen to be tis” Sauvignon Blanc dessert wine. quite warming, with the essence of The “Bullfighting” series is more Trip planner Hotels and hockey. Governing political exactly that age—his impact was dra- Our notes on the wine, which we re- old grapes and earth. Although re- observation than condemnation, Hotels and sanatoriums left party United Russia holds party matic, timeless and highly personal. member vividly, are endless and in- laxed and clearly old, it wasn’t over capturing the action with astonish- How to get there over from the Soviet era remain and media gatherings there sev- We came of age, wine-wise, with clude this: “Nose was pure nectar, the hill. ing fluidity and movement. Legend Podmoskovye, the official popular, and new establishments eral times a year (Odintsovo-Va- the 1974 harvest. We had met a year with every imaginable fruit. So in- It got better with the second had it, inaccurately, that it was the name for the administrative re- have sprung up in the region khromeyevo; % 7-495-616-0820; earlier and become seriously inter- credibly rich that we took very glass, with sweeter fruit and a hint Moors who brought bullfighting to gion around Moscow, covers a around Moscow. Near the St. www.bor.pansion.ru; 4,600-5,200 ested in wine over the following small sips, then let it linger for sev- of prunes. After it was open for 12 Spain, so Goya’s fictional early mata- vast area, stretching out 100 to Sergius Monastery, try the rubles). months. As it happens, 1974 was the eral minutes. The amazing thing is minutes, it seemed 10 years dors wear the Moorish turbans and 150 kilometers in all directions wooden, Russian-style Russky vintage that put the eight-year-old that it was not thick at all. It simply younger, with chocolate and tangy costumes of Napoleon’s North Afri- from the capital. Commuter Dvorik, which movie stars fre- Restaurants Mondavi winery over the top, with a coated our mouths with pure taste.” fruit. “Ripe grapes, sun and earth— can troops. And in several surprising trains run regularly to many of quent (14/2 Mitkina Street, Near Arkhangelskoye, head to superior, abundant harvest of beau- We never met Mr. Mondavi. We winemaking like it used to be before views, toreador Mariano Ceballos the towns worth visiting, but at Sergiyev Posad; Deti Solntsa for salads, chops tiful California fruit. In 2003, when never felt we needed to. We felt we the industry screwed it up,” Dottie rides one bull as he fights another. % least a basic knowledge of Rus- driver. The office is at Sher- 7-496-547-5392; and meat dumplings (4 Pogodina he was approaching 90 and too hard knew him. In fact, of course, things said at this point. At 40 minutes, the In “The Disparates” (sometimes © Bibliothèque de l’INHA, collections Jacques Doucet sian is needed to negotiate them. emetyevo 2. www.russky-dvorik.ru; Street, Staroye Peredelkino; of hearing to speak with us by behind the curtain were much nose was filled with rose petals and For an easier option, rent a car, Some Moscow companies of- 3,200-6,400 rubles a night for a % 7-495-730-8989; phone, Mr. Mondavi told us through darker than we could have imag- the finish had some cinnamon and or a car with a driver. fer a combination of interpreta- double room. www.detisolntsa.ru; 700 rubles a a spokeswoman that the 1974 vin- ined. The book “The House of Mon- nutmeg. We kept expecting the wine Podmoskovye is fed by more tion, tour guiding, chauffeur and North of New Jerusalem Mon- person). tage showed everyone what was pos- davi,” by our colleague Julia Flynn to crash at any minute, but it didn’t. than a dozen radial highways. car rental. Try Moscow Tour astery are Istra Holiday’s luxury Near Moscow Stud Farm, dine sible at his winery—and with Ameri- Siler, is a heartbreaking look at how We drank the bottle over an hour Getting to the destinations in Guide (% 7-495-565-6163; cottages (Trusovo village, Sol- among Russia’s richest at can wine in general. many tears were mixed with that and a half and it never lost its fruit. this story can take anywhere www.moscowguidedtours.com), nechnorgorsk region; A.V.E.N.U.E., which serves Italian At that very particular time in wine. And, indeed, by the time we be- In fact, even the sediment was from 40 minutes to three hours where you can hire a guide at % 7-495-731-6199; and French dishes (Barvikha Lux- American wine history, Mondavi gan writing our column and tasting cloudy but drinkable, so we ended by car, depending on the dis- Above, the traditional Russian stove $25 an hour or a car with a www.istraholiday.ru; 6,100-7,300 ury Village, Rubloyvskoye- wines were something truly differ- for a living, in 1998, Mondavi was the bottle with a nice little tannic tance and the road congestion. at Tsar’s Hunt restaurant; right, Istra driver starting at $25 an hour. rubles). Uskpenskoye Shosse; ent. The label and the bottling were clearly on the downslide. The win- kick. We didn’t have the wine with a Traffic along the radial highways Holiday cottages. Road signs are in Russian, so For something completely dif- % 7-495-980-6806; 2,300 rubles). as lovely and understated as Lafite. ery’s good reputation outlived its spectacular meal, by the way. We is always heavy, although not so take a day or two to learn the ferent, Zvenigorod Sanatorium, For something more Russian While many fine French wines were quality. Whenever we’d mention in a drank it while watching “En- bad outside rush hours. Cyrillic alphabet in order to rec- near Moscow Stud Farm, is a spa near the stable, try Tsar’s Hunt, so elegant and high-bred that they column that we didn’t like a Mon- chanted,” for the second time, with Hertz and Auto Europe have locations, with one close to Sher- ognize place names. For maps, in a 19th-century columned es- which is styled like a hunting seemed austere, Mondavi’s wines davi wine, we would receive out- our daughters. offices in Sheremetyevo 2 and emetyevo. A standard five-seater go to Dom Knigi Moskva (8 Tver- tate once owned by Tsar Pavel I lodge and serves Uzbek, Russian had both structure and generosity. raged letters from readers saying, As we have said so very often, Domodedovo, Moscow’s two runs about Œ100 a day. skaya Street; % 7-495-629-6483; (Zvenigorod; % 7-495-992-4134; and other Eastern European They had the class of a master wine- heavens, don’t you know what we wine isn’t just a liquid in a bottle. main international airports. Avis In Russia, Budget car rental is www.moscowbooks.ru) where a www.san-zven.ru; 1,980-3,100 ru- dishes (186A Rublyovskoye- maker and the ripeness of the Cali- owe Robert Mondavi? But within a Good wine is somebody’s passion. is in Sheremetyevo but will trans- a chauffeur service, with hourly helpful staff will help you navi- bles). Uskpenskoye Shosse, Zhukovka fornia sun, a magical combination few years, the tide had turned. When you drink a bottle of wine that 12-18 JUNE 2008 fer cars within Moscow for 730 rates of Œ40 to Œ90. You may not gate through their large selec- Bor, near Gorki-Leninskiye, Village; % 7-495-418-7938; 1,700 few had accomplished. The wines Then, whenever we said something someone cared about, you are drink- rubles (Œ20). Thrifty is at three rent a car without a Budget tion. has cottages, horseback riding rubles). were more expensive than many, good about a Mondavi wine we’d get ing that person’s art and maybe a lit- Grosvenor House Park Lane London W1 but not so expensive that they be- outraged letters saying, heavens, tle bit of his or her soul. Here’s to Telephone +44 (0)20 7399 8100 came special-occasion wines. And don’t you know Mondavi products you, Bob. www.grosvenorfair.co.uk

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From thrillers to satire, culturally rich suburban region we know what you’ll History HE HISTORIC MILITARY battles around Moscow began soon after the Tcity’s founding in the 12th century, from the 13th-century fight against the Ta- read this summer tar Hordes to the Battle of Moscow in World War II. One of the most resonant is the Battle of Borodino, in which the Russian Imperial By Robert J. Hughes first-time authors, including the short-story army fought Napoleon’s invading troops N ITALIAN SERIAL KILLER. A Chinese collections “One More Year” by Ukrainian- about 120 kilometers west of Moscow near coma victim. An American president in American Sana Krasikov and “Say You’re One the town of Borodino on Sept. 7, 1812. It Acrisis. This summer’s crop of books tack- of Them” by Uwem Akpan, a Jesuit priest was one of the biggest battles of the Napole- les a global range of subjects. from Nigeria. “One of the things that makes onic wars; 44,000 of the 120,000 Russian For our summer reading roundup, we American literature so vital at this point is soldiers died, and 30,000 of 130,000 French spoke with publishers, authors, independent that we have input from so many different cul- were killed. booksellers, online retailer Amazon and chain tures and linguistic backgrounds,” says Paul The Russians, under General Mikhail Ku- stores such as Barnes & Noble. We asked Yamazaki, coordinating buyer at City Lights tuzov, actually lost the battle, but strategi- them to name the coming releases they were bookstore in San Francisco. cally pulled back before being destroyed, most excited about—including such titles as Since it’s an election year in the U.S., drawing Napoleon even farther from his “The Monster of Florence,” “Beijing Coma” there’s a surge of political books. Among supply lines. The following month Napoleon and “One Minute to Midnight”—and picked them: a still-untitled work from Ron Suskind and his troops, starving and freezing, re- our favorites after reading the works they rec- on national security, “Your Government Failed treated to Poland. ommended. You” by Richard A. Clarke and “What Hap- The battle became a textbook case of the In the coming weeks, bookstores will wel- pened” by former White House press secre- failure of an overextended army, as well as come new works by some best-selling au- tary Scott McClellan. the inspiration for numerous works of art, thors, including essayist David Sedaris Here, our summer reading list. music and literature, including Tolstoy’s (“When You Are Engulfed by Flames”), Andre “War and Peace.” Dubus III (“The Garden of Last Days”), Joyce Today the battlefield is part of the Carol Oates (“My Sister, My Love”) and Sal- WSJ.com Borodino War and History Museum and Re- man Rushdie (“The Enchantress of Florence”). serve. The 110-square-kilometer site pre- “I had a dream the other night that I did a Further reading serves the rolling, grassy meadows where book signing and signed five books,” jokes Mr. Read excerpts from some of these books, the battle took place, with 300 memorials Sedaris, one of the industry’s biggest draws. plus a Q&A with author David Sedaris, at at important sites of the battle, including “I realize I’m very lucky.” WSJ.com/Europe the commanding points of Kutuzov and Na-

The summer will also see books by many Photos: Retna Ltd.; Zuma Press/Newscom; Anne Fishbein; Tatiana Krasikov; Getty Images; Illustration: Aaron Goodman poleon. (You can also see pillboxes and other defensive works built in 1941 for the Battle of Moscow.) Maps of the territory Cannons on display at the Battle of Borodino history museum and reserve, site of one of the largest battles in the Napoleonic era. are available at the main museum building. In the museum, you can see historic uni- forms from both the Russian and French strokes in 1924. It was here (when the vil- In the garage is a telling detail of how ter the 17th century—Moscow grew more armies—the French in red and navy short lage was just called Gorki) that Lenin, in ill the socialist revolutionary actually lived: a powerful and was able to defend itself coats with tails, with red or gold piping and health after the revolution, retreated to his gray-blue 1916 Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost, out- against the Tatars—and as a result, the epaulettes; the Russians in beige or blue an- Doric-columned mansion at the end of Birch fitted with oversize skis and caterpillar city’s role in the Orthodox church was ac- kle-length coats—as well as old maps and Alley. tracks to travel in snow. The vehicle, main- centuated. Established as a diocese in 1350, strategy plans. There is also a section cover- His house has been preserved as a mu- tained by Adolf Kergess, the former chauf- Kolomna’s metropolitan—equivalent to an ing “War and Peace.” Tolstoy traveled here seum (called the Gorki-Leninskiye estate), feur of Tsar Nicholas II, was one of nine archbishop—is one of six permanent mem- Non-Fiction Plot Back story What grabbed us in September 1867 to do research for the but unlike most museums glorifying the life Rolls-Royces used by Lenin. bers of the Russian Orthodox Church’s holy novel, and some of the books he used are of the revolutionary leader, this one tells In the 14th century, the city of Kolomna, synod. When You Are Engulfed Quirky essays drawn from the Mr. Sedaris’s books have sold more than seven million Memoirs aren’t the most trusted literary form right on display, as well as photographs of the the story of Lenin as a dying man. 115 kilometers southeast of Moscow, on the Most important for visitors are the city’s in Flames author’s past with his eccentric copies, and his tours can fill concert venues. Before he now—but Mr. Sedaris says his comic tales aren’t area from the time period. Clocks and calendars are frozen at the strategic confluence of the Moscow and Oka 20 churches and four monasteries. Some Weapons are displayed: cannonballs, moment of Lenin’s death—6:50 p.m., Jan. rivers, was Russia’s second richest after that closed or became run down in Soviet David Sedaris family (his sister is comedian- goes out, he writes new essays and tries them out on memoirs. “They're much choppier than that,” he says. actress Amy Sedaris), audiences. “The tours cut down on my writing time,” He gets his ideas from the diaries he’s been keeping muskets and grenade shards. Toy soldiers 21—and one can see the iron-and-wicker Moscow. Today, what remains of the city’s times have been revived in recent decades. July 3, Little, Brown his years in New York he says. New for this tour: an essay about two train since he was 20. “I don't think I’m better than anybody are arranged on a model of Borodino, pro- wheelchair and bottles of sedative powder fortifications is a stunning example of medi- The city has rebuilt the Church of Nikola in 323 pages, and his life in France. trips he took. Coming soon: his first book of fiction, else at remembering,” says Mr. Sedaris, 51. “Like viding an overview of the entire battle. he used, as well as the plaster cast of his eval defensive architecture. Posad’s elaborate 16th-century roof made £11.99 brief fables about animals. everyone else, I remember things that were strange.” Every year on Borodino Day, the first face and hands made hours after death. (Le- Italian architects—including Aleviso up of kokoshniki arches and reopened the Sunday in September, the museum orga- nin’s body was later embalmed and moved Novi, who built the Moscow Kremlin—de- Church of Nikola Gostinogo, one of Russia’s nizes a re-enactment of the battle, in which to the mausoleum on Red Square.) signed the oval-shaped red-brick city walls. first to be constructed of brick. The As- thousands of Russians take part in full rega- In the days before his death, Stalin and Kolomna’s kremlin rivaled Moscow’s in sumption Cathedral Church, a 17th-century A minute-by-minute account of the 1962 Cuban Missile Mr. Dobbs wanted to write about the Missile Crisis Mr. Dobbs argues that while many academics have One Minute to Midnight lia wielding bayonets, flags and trumpets other Communist Party officials came to length and was designed so defenders could remake of a 14th-century original that com- Crisis, when the U.S. and U.S.S.R. were close to nuclear while there were still survivors to interview. He says studied the crisis, the “human story has been lost.” Michael Dobbs and riding horses lent from nearby Moscow see the leader, but what is most interesting repel attackers with frontal fire from the memorates Russia’s victory over invading war over Soviet missile installations in Cuba. The book the threat of disaster didn’t The author details some little-known tales within the Stud Farm No. 1 (see the Outdoors section here are the remnants of Lenin’s private walls and flanking fire from the towers. Mongols, reopened in 1999 and now hosts features new data about the movement of Soviet come from the decisions of larger drama, such as the errant flight of Charles June 5, for more on this horse stable). Last year life. Lenin read German, English, Italian and Seven of the 17 towers remain, including the city’s main religious services on holi- forces based on declassified government documents Kennedy or Khrushchev, but Maultsby's U-2 reconnaissance plane, which Knopf drew 2,000 re-enactors, 200 horses and French, and books in foreign languages, in- Granovitaya Tower, sliced almost perfectly days. and interviews with surviving Russian participants. from unpredictable events drifted into Soviet airspace. 448 pages, more than 100,000 spectators to watch the cluding by Goethe and Shakespeare, line the in a cross section to reveal its thickness At 4:30 p.m. every day, chimes of the while “the military machine £20 battle re-enacted step-by-step. library shelves. He loved Russian authors, and height. The kremlin walls are four bell tower at the Novo-Golutvin Women’s cranked along.” The village of Gorki-Leninskiye, 35 kilo- too, and had tomes by Tolstoy, Turgenev meters thick and 20 meters tall. Some sec- Monastery signal the beginning of evening meters south of Moscow, is the site of Le- and Pushkin. Legend has it Lenin could de- tions have walkways along the top. worship, where the nuns’ singing can be The Monster of Florence The story of one of Italy’s most notorious serial Best-selling thriller author Douglas Preston, when The authors offer up their theories nin’s final illness and death from a series of vour up to 600 pages a day. Kolomna lost its strategic importance af- heard. Douglas Preston killers, who has eluded capture for decades; his living in Florence in 2000, learned about the about who the killer could be, and why and Mario Spezi identity remains uncertain. One of the co-authors, murderer who attacked lovers in their cars and the case matters. “Many countries have Italian journalist Mario Spezi, was jailed when Italian killed 14 people. It was, he says, “the most horrific a serial killer who defines his culture by June 10, Grand Central authorities accused him of being the killer. (He was story I’ve ever come across in my life.” Mr. Preston a process of negation…by exposing its Publishing, 322 pages, later released and the prosecutors involved were teamed up with Mr. Spezi, who had covered the black underbelly….England had Jack the £13 censured.) case, to investigate the crime. Ripper….Italy had the Monster of Florence,” they write.

Rome: 1960 The 1960 Olympics in Rome took place at the height of Mr. Maraniss says the Rome Mr. Maraniss makes the case that the 1960 games David Maraniss the Cold War and on the cusp of the Civil Rights Olympics featured a “great captured a key moment. In one passage he writes, movement, when black American athletes such as setting, wonderful “The forces of change were profound and palpable in July 1, Rafer Johnson, Wilma Rudolph and Cassius Clay won characters.” He interviewed the Eternal City. In sports, culture, and politics— Simon&Schuster gold medals. It was also the infancy of televising the many athletes from Russia, interwoven in so many ways—one could see an old 456 pages, games. Italy and elsewhere for the order dying and a new one being born. With all its £14 book. promise and trouble, the world as we see it today was coming into view.” Lenin’s ski-equipped Rolls-Royce and his death mask on display at the Gorki-Leninskiye estate, The kremlin in Kolomna, once a strategic stronghold at the confluence of the Moscow and Oka rivers. where the revolutionary leader died after a series of strokes in 1924. Right, a nun rings the bells at Kolomna’s Novo-Golutvin Women’s Monastery.

W6 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 W11 v Travel

Greater Moscow: Exploring the capital’s Fiction Plot Back story What grabbed us City of Thieves The offbeat coming-of-age tale of a teenage boy and a The author adapted his novel “The 25th The book captures wartime deprivation; it also David Benioff cocky young soldier. The pair witness the horrors of war Hour” for a Spike Lee movie. He hatched deftly portrays the bonds that are forged in the in Leningrad in 1942 when, during a time of suffering the idea for the new novel in 1999, but it worst of times. “You have never been so hungry; Out now, and starvation, they are sent by a took a while for it to come together. you have never been so cold….In June of 1941, Viking colonel to find eggs for his “After screenwriting for so many years, before the Germans came, we thought we were Crafts 258 pages, daughter’s wedding cake. you lose muscles you need for novel- poor. But June seemed like paradise by Winter,” £12.99 writing,” Mr. Benioff says. He says he Mr. Benioff writes. has no plans to adapt it into a film. OME OF RUSSIA’S most-loved souve- nirs—lacquered boxes, flowered Sshawls and white and cobalt-blue por- Beijing Coma A Tiananmen Square protestor Ma Jian can travel to China but can’t be published Mr. Ma’s skill at combining allegory, celain—are produced in historic artisan Ma Jian lies in a coma after being shot, there under his own name. He now lives in London history and poetry. The coma towns in the Moscow suburbs. reliving his past while confined with his partner, Flora Drew, who translates his victim’s thoughts were inspired Almost every Russian kitchen has some- May 27, Farrar, to his bed. Waking after a decade, books, which include “The Noodle Maker.” by “Classic of the Mountains thing from Gzhel porcelain works—or at Strauss & Giroux he finds the new China unrecognizable. and Seas,” an ancient Chinese least in the Gzhel style. The ceramic cups, 592 pages, poem likely written by samovars and teapots made here are cen- £17.99 several authors. tral to tea drinking, almost a religion in this country. Gzhel, located in Novokharitonovo, The Garden of Last Days A fact-based novel in which a The author’s novel “House of Sand and Fog” was an The author’s sympathy for all his characters draws in about 60 kilometers east of the center of Andre Dubus III terrorist behind the Sept. 11 attacks Oprah pick and became a movie. Booksellers think this the reader. “I don't know if I believe in villains,”Mr. Moscow, is the most famous of Russia’s ce- goes to Florida strip clubs, grappling could be big, too. “You’ll care about these people even Dubus says. “I believe in villainous behavior.” He spent ramics manufacturers for being a pioneer June 2, with his mission and as you’re horrified” by what they’re doing, says Mike five years on the book, including research on the of the craft, uniting the workshops of the W.W. Norton American temptations. Barnard, owner of Rakestraw Books, Danville, terrorists, Islam and Saudi Arabia. nearby town of Gzhel into a conglomerate 537 pages, It’s told from the point of California. and for the quality of its wares. You can £17.99 view of the terrorist— take a tour of the factory, visit the adjoin- and the strippers. ing museum and buy items in the shop. Producing since the 14th century, Gzhel makes works that typically come in blue Say You Are This debut collection features five harrowing stories The Nigerian-born author is a Jesuit priest The stories, such as “My Parents’ Bedroom,” about and white, hand painted with folk charac- One of Them about the perilous lives of children in various African who lives and teaches in Zimbabwe. His tribal massacres in Rwanda, can be brutal, but ters and entwined flowers and vines. The Uwem Akpan countries, covering subjects such as inter-tribal warfare native language is Annang, but he studied aren’t melodramatic. The children who utilitarian objects are formed in witty in Rwanda and the Gabon child-prostitution trade. in English, honing his skills with an MFA narrate describe events in a matter-of-fact shapes—a teapot in the form of a cottage, a June 9, Little, Brown at the University of Michigan. He got a tone that is free of self-pity. “I felt this was butter dish adorned with a milkmaid and 358 pages, book deal after one of his stories the way to give dignity to their voices,” her charge in relief. £11.99 appeared in the New Yorker. the author says. In the quality-control corner of Gzhel’s nondescript factory, aproned women tap the wares, listening for a crisp twang—the Finding Nouf In Saudi Arabia, the brother of Ms. Ferraris lived in Saudi Arabia after the first The insights into a cloistered world of Saudi women, signature sound of an object well baked. “If Zoë Ferraris a missing 16-year-old girl hires Gulf War with her then-husband, a Saudi- as well as the plight of men who have freedom of it doesn’t sound right, we break it,” to a Palestinian desert guide to Palestinian Bedouin, and grew fascinated with movement but are still bound by religious strictures. make sure no less-than-perfect item is of- June 20, help find her. The guide must men’s struggles there to meet suitable wives in It’s a compelling mystery story that also gives a fered for sale, said Natalya Zhukova, the fac- Houghton Mifflin navigate Islamic and Saudi a closed society. The story’s Muslim investigator sympathetic view of a culture that many people still tory’s tour guide. 305 pages, laws about women’s roles to will appear in two more books, she says. know little about. The museum shows some of Gzhel’s £12 find the truth. works over the years, including bulbous, flowerlike teacups, multicolored tiles used in radiant-heat Russian stoves, elaborate ce- My Sister, My Love The first-person narrative of 19-year-old Skyler The book was inspired by the The author's uncanny ability to blend satire with ramic chandeliers and even telephones with Joyce Carol Oates Rampike, whose 6-year old sister, JonBenét Ramsey case. Ms. in-depth character studies. The book also features dainty receivers and flowery swirls around ice-skating champion Bliss Oates says she wanted to explore witty footnotes weighing in on the action, à la Vladimir circular number dials. In the shop, blue-and- Left, the fringe on the shawls is June 24, Ecco Rampike, was murdered 10 life from inside a family that had Nabokov in “Pale Fire.” Sample: “Ugh! So abruptly white teacups with saucers are 550 rubles hand-tied at the Pavlovo Posad shawl 576 pages, years earlier. become notorious. She says the inside the mind of a sicko where for sure I do not wish (Œ15) a set, while gold-pattern sets go for factory, where (top) a machine stamps £13 novel is about “living in that to be any more than you do, reader.” 1,400 rubles. patterns on the cloth. Above, tabloid hell.” Russia’s lacquered boxes—once used for hand-painted ceramic spoons from Gzhel. snuff and small items such as postage and cards—are miniature masterpieces of folk The Guernsey Literary & Potato An epistolary novel about a writer who befriends a Author Mary Ann Shaffer was so fascinated by The book's warmth makes the painting. Papier-mâché boxes are hardened Peel Pie Society group of folks on Guernsey in the Channel Islands Guernsey she wanted to write about its role in narrative feel fresh and with glue and resin, then painted with intri- items, men often presented them as gifts Mary Ann Shaffer just after World War II, and learns about the book WWII in her first and only book. Ms. Shaffer died immediate. The late Ms. Shaffer cate, often idealized scenes of troika riding, when asking for a woman’s hand in mar- and Annie Barrows club they once formed to protect their members in February, after the book was sold. Her was taken by firsthand accounts sunset landscapes and peasant pleasures, or riage. during Nazi occupation. niece, Annie Barrows, a children’s book author, of the occupation, her niece says, episodes from legends—heroic princes bat- “I love shawls. I could collect them for- July 29, Dial Press took over revisions for the novel, which and felt letters would convey a tle dragons, and snow maidens enchant vil- ever,” said a tour guide, who said she had 288 pages, booksellers are embracing. sense of being there. lages. seven and wanted seven more. “It’s not just £12.99 The craft began in Russia two centuries for wearing. You can also use it to decorate ago in Fedoskino, about 35 kilometers north a table or throw over a couch.” of Moscow’s center. Here, in a several- The factory’s adjoining museum shows Pharmankon A look at Americans’ quest for happiness Dirk Wittenborn based part of the novel on The author keeps the plot moving over the book’s weeks-long process, artisans layer metal the process of making the patterns. When Dirk Wittenborn through the story of a self-centered Yale his father, a Yale professor. The author also 400-plus pages, with eccentric, John powders with oil paints and lacquer. “We the business began in 1795, the designs psychology professor who finds a drug that co-wrote the screenplay to a movie, “The Irving-like characters. The first apply an underlayer of aluminum or bronze were hand stamped with wood and copper July 31, alters people’s moods. The book follows the Lucky Ones,” starring Tim Robbins, out this fall. line is a winner: “I was born so [the image] retains its brightness after blocks; today a machine stamps the pat- Viking rise of psychopharmacology and the travails of the because a man came centuries,” said Irina Dyakova, a craftsman terns on the cloth. Each shawl can be 416 pages, professor’s smart, unhappy family from the 1950s to kill my father.” and the factory’s tour guide. printed with as many as 10 colors, and in £13.20 through the 1990s. The treated papier-mâché is extremely the old days, a single misplaced block could durable—as seen in some of the 19th-cen- ruin the design. Fringe is hand-tied onto tury samples in the factory’s museum. Work- the shawls, which are usually square in One More Year The stories in this debut collection trace the lives of Sana Krasikov was born in Ukraine and The stories focus more on character and ers wind cardboard around a mold, sub- shape, 90 to 150 centimeters a side. Sana Krasikov Russian immigrants in America as they try to make emigrated with her family to the U.S. when setting than on plot. “I have a more merge it in a vat of heated glue and dry it The earliest designs included flowers careers there—or enough she was 8. While on a Fulbright Fellowship novelistic approach, and a less in an oven. The item is returned to the kiln and paisley in intense greens, reds and Aug. 12, money to relocate back to in Moscow, researching a novel, she finished episodic approach to writing short to harden after each layer of paint and lac- blues against a black background. Today, Spiegel & Grau Russia. this collection. Two of the stories have run stories,” says Ms. Krasikov. quer. Above, a lacquered papier-mâché pastels, leopard prints and monochromes 208 pages, in the New Yorker. Souvenir stalls in the city are notorious box made at Fedoskino; right, have been introduced, and shawls in silk £11 for hawking cheap imitations; true lacquer- painting an ornament at Gzhel. have been added in recent decades. ware is expensive, because of the painstak- The manufacturer’s store sells shawls at ing process. In Fedoskino’s shop, 30-centi- factory prices, from 200 rubles to 1,800 ru- Photos: Alamy; ITAR-TASS; Newscom; AFP Berlin Book Two: City of Smoke A cartoon epic about Berlin between the two In the trilogy Mr. Lutes examines the The interweaving stories of a journalist, a meter panels with scenes of tea drinking bles. One pattern that has been popular for Jason Lutes world wars. The second volume of a planned “basic human impulses toward the desire prostitute, a black clarinetist, soldiers, politicians, and troika rides range from 32,000 rubles city of Pavlovsky Posad, Pavlovo Posad them. The shawls made by Pavlovo Posad 18 years for its intricate flower design in trilogy takes place following 1929’s deadly May for power," he says. The previous volume bureaucrats and others as they interact during the to 40,000 rubles. Shawl Factory produces another Russian fa- are known for their quality and fidelity to blue is the Maiya (1,080 rubles on Russian Aug. 20, Day demonstration, as pressure builds among sold about 13,000 copies—impressive for waning Weimar Republic give a human dimension to Unique designs are relatively more ex- vorite: wool shawls, or platki. Worn by aris- traditional patterns. wool or 1,700 rubles on Australian wool), Drawn & Quarterly communists, nationalists, Jews and Gentiles. a graphic novel—and went through three a seismic era. Mr. Lutes’s unsentimental black-and- pensive. A small box with a harlequin in pas- tocratic ladies in the 19th century—picture The warm, soft wraps entered the ward- named after the granddaughter of its de- 216 pages, Meanwhile, the city’s sordid nightlife booms. printings. It has been translated into white drawings are so understated that when tel colors playing a flute commands 18,200 Chekhov’s three sisters lounging around the robes of Russian aristocrats from France, signer, Ekaterina Regunova. The grand- £12.99 This comic isn’t for kids. several languages, including German violence erupts it has a jolt. rubles. drawing room—they became a wardrobe ba- and with Russia’s cold winters, they became daughter was born in 1989 the day her and Finnish. Eighty kilometers east of Moscow, in the sic when the factory began mass-producing indispensable. Because they were valuable grandmother completed the design.

W10 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 W7 v Travel Greater Architecture 1. Holy Trinity-St. Sergius Monastery Sergiyev Posad, Sergiyevo-Posadsky District %7-496-54-053-34; Escape from Moscow: Moscow (tours: %7-495-721-2677) www.stsl.ru A beautiful complex of cathedrals and other buildings, Sights worth seeing including the tomb of Russia's most important in Podmoskovye, the city's religious patriarch; a Unesco site. sprawling suburban region 2. New Jerusalem Monastery 2 Sovetskaya Street side trips in the city’s suburbs Istra, Istrinsky District %7-496-31-465-49 The architectural wonder combines Old Russian, classical and Baroque influences.

A papier-mâché box with the painted scene 3. Arkhangelskoye Estate By Joyce Man 'To the Civil War' from Fedoskino. Arkhangelskoye, Krasnogorsky District A104 %7-495-561-9759 Special to The Wall Street Journal www.arkhangelskoe.ru A stunning collection of 18th-century to 20th-century neoclassical architecture in Moscow's version of Versailles. M10 A108 OSCOW IS ONE of M6 4. Tsaritsyno Museum and Reserve the world’s great 1 Dolskaya Street, Moscow 12 % cities, a massive 1 7-495-322-6843 and vibrant testa- www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru ment to Russia’s The recently restored palace and landscaped gardens of Catherine the Great. historic and cur- The Arkhangelskoye Estate. rent power and wealth. M A108 But sometimes the bling—from Crafts M9 6 the line of Bentleys outside the A107 new Ritz-Carlton hotel near Red 5. Gzhel Amalgamation Square to the 150 ruble (Œ4) cof- Novokharitonovo, Ramensky District fees at the Starbucks branch—can 2 %7-246-475-07 M7 Quintessentially Russian ceramics be blinding. The city, rolling in oil from a centuries-old producer. cash, is increasingly expensive 7 (for the past two years, it was A107 3 Moscow 6. Fedoskino Lacquer Miniatures named the world’s most-expensive Fedoskino, Mytishchinsky District city to live in for expatriates by %7-495-577-9955 Mercer Consulting) and increas- 11 4 5 Elaborately painted papier-mâché boxes. ingly crowded. Last year, 11 mil- 8 lion tourists visited, including 13 7. Pavlovo Posad Shawl Factory four million foreigners. M1 9 5 Kalayevskaya Street Pavlovsky Posad, Pavlovo-Posadsky District Hotel room rates rose 11% last %7-49643-296-18 year from a year earlier and were A107 www.pavlovoposad.ru up 93% from 2004, to an average The central square at Shawls with an aristocratic pedigree. M3 P105 of more than 12,000 rubles a the Holy Trinity- night, according to Hogg Robinson St. Sergius Monastery. A101 History Group, a corporate-services com- A108 pany. ITAR-TASS 8. Borodino Museum and Reserve Luckily, visitors in search of a Borodino, Mozhaisky District quainter, quieter Russia don’t %7-49638-63-223; (tours: %7-496-38-51-522) have far to go. Podmoskovye, the 10 www.borodino.ru Architecture A108 Relive ‘War and Peace’ at this sprawling suburban region beyond Moscow’s battlefield memorial park. outermost ring highway, is full of interesting sights for travelers HE MOSCOW REGION—the Entrance to the monastery and a church-filled city 250 kilometers 50,000 acquisitions, including 18th- 9. Gorki-Leninskiye looking for a bit of relief from seat of an empire that de- its churches is free. Monks conduct northeast of Moscow. and 19th-century paintings by M2 State History Museum and Reserve M4 Moscow’s Wild West madness— Tpended heavily on the power tours in English. (Call to reserve a The red-brick ruins of what was French, Italian, English and Russian M5 Gorki-Leninskiye, Leninsky District from majestic palaces and war me- of the Russian Orthodox Church—is day ahead. See travel information once the belfry—shattered by a Nazi artists, are on display in the mu- %7-495-548-9309 morials to historic artisan work- home to some of Russia’s most im- on facing page.) bomb in 1941—remain, weathered seum. Jazz festivals draw visitors to www.gorki-len.narod.ru shops to natural spots for fishing pressive churches and palaces, as Three shops inside the monas- over nearly seven decades. With lit- the lawns every summer. Memories of Lenin’s last days. and hiking. well as some of the empire’s stron- tery sell remarkably delicious tle funding in Soviet times, restora- Tsaritsyno rivals Arkhangel- 10. Kolomna 0 50km The region, all within 20 min- gest and oldest fortifications. Lenten foods year round—the tion work has been slow. Birds skoye in name, scale and beauty. Kolomensky Kremlin utes’ to three hours’ drive from St. Sergius of Radonezh, the cre- monks observe periods of fasting— swoop in through uncovered win- The 18th-century, 700-hectare es- Kolomensky District the city center, is home to sleepy ator of monastic life as it is known including gingerbread cakes that re- dows, and the morning frost crystal- tate located 20 minutes south of A re-enactment of the 1812 Borodino battle at % the battlefield preserve and museum. Railways 7-4966-1203-37 and colorfully named towns such today in Russia, is buried 70 kilome- semble oversize muffin tops. The lizes on walls with cracking, centu- Moscow’s center (technically still www.kolomna-kreml.ru as Serp i Molot (Sickle and Ham- ters northeast of Moscow at the monastery also makes its own ries-old paint. within the city limits) is home to M4 Freeways, highways Awe-inspiring imperial fortifications mer) and Pravda (Truth) that Holy Trinity-St. Sergius Monastery, honey and “sbiten,” a drink of water, A museum at New Jerusalem’s Catherine the Great’s Grand Palace. in a strategic town. don’t usually figure on Moscow which he founded in 1345. Pilgrims honey and spices. north end—restored and modern in- Two architects, Vasily Bazhenov Novo-Golutvin Women's Monastery tour itineraries. come here to visit the saint’s tomb, a New Jerusalem Monastery, side with white, stuccoed walls— and Matvei Kazakov, began work at 11a Lazareva Street On these five pages we offer a silver-and-gold edifice encased in meanwhile, 50 kilometers north- houses fragments of the monas- the behest of the empress, but after Kolomensky District look at the region’s offerings in glass, but the site is a breathtaking west of Moscow, is a masterful exam- tery’s architectural story: an iron her death in 1796, the half-finished novogolutvin.ru crafts, architecture, history and assortment of cathedrals, chapels, ple of Old Russian, classical and Ba- bell salvaged from the belfry, icons palace was abandoned. Muscovites Chiming church bells and singing nuns outdoor sports. One can mix and bell towers, defensive battlements roque architecture. Its polychro- from the 17th to 20th centuries, and came to know and love Tsaritsyno at the Moscow Region's spiritual center. match a day trip based on geogra- and other structures, and is now a matic ceramic tiles spawned similar golden crosses inlaid with semipre- as an overgrown, weathered ruin— phy, or fashion a full tour based Unesco world-heritage site. Interi- craft around Russia. cious stones. until last September when it was re- Outdoors on a theme. ors of the churches are frescoed and Patriarch Nikon founded New About 20 kilometers west of Mos- stored at the request of Moscow 11. Moscow Stud Farm No. 1 include icons by the great painters Jerusalem in 1666 as the Russian Or- cow is Arkhangelskoye estate, Mayor Yuri Luzhkov. Andrei Rublyov and Simon Ushakov. thodox Church’s power swelled, and called the Versailles of the Moscow Today, the State Museum Re- Uspenskoye Settlement, Odintsovsky District Riding on the banks of the Moscow River Ride Russia's most impressive horses. Assumption Cathedral, with its the church and czars dubbed Mos- region—even though it is smaller serve Tsaritsyno is an odd, some- at the Moscow Stud Farm No. 1. gold and sky-blue domes, stands at cow the “Third Rome.” The com- and less grand than its French times discordant mix of the old and 12. Yakhroma, Volen and the monastery’s center. It is a copy plex’s main church, the Resurrec- cousin. But it is stunning nonethe- new—classical and gothic struc- Stepanovo mountain resorts of a larger, more famous cathedral tion Cathedral, though topped with less, a collection of 18th-to-20th- tures are painted in Disney-like col- Yakhroma Park with the same name in the Moscow gilded domes in the Russian tradi- century neoclassical buildings with ors, and a modern fountain wasn’t Yakhroma, Dmitrovsky District Kremlin. Trinity Cathedral, whose tion, was modeled after the Church colonnades, pediments and coffered in the original design. %7-495-981-8939 whitewashed walls glow in the sun- of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. ceilings set against a landscape of Even so, Tsaritsyno holds on to a www.ya-park.ru light, represents one of a few remain- Some of the most famous architects carefully pruned lawns, tree-lined al- certain charm. Catherine’s red pal- Volen Sports Park and Stepanovo Park ing white stone churches of the 14th- in Russia, including Francesco Bar- lées, flowery archways, statues and ace, with a classical plan, white 1 Troitskaya Street and 15th-century Moscow style. tolomeo Rastrelli—designer of Tsar- lonely bridges—all with a view of gothic detailing, large columns and Yakhroma, Dmitrovsky District The monastery continues its tra- skoe Selo and the Winter Palace in the Moscow River. ogival arcades, stretches 145 meters %7-495-993-9540 dition nearly 700 years after St. St. Petersburg—designed buildings The estate, now a state-owned long. Across a green field, the sec- www.volen.ru Winter and summer sports in scenic surroundings. Sergius founded the seminary here. in the monastery complex, which park and museum, has passed ond cavalier building, nicknamed Read a trip planner with A priest starts taking requests from also includes three other churches. through the hands of several the Octagon for its shape, has a trade- 13. Sabi Fishing Park visitors for prayers at 8 a.m. “Peo- A line of painted and glazed red- princes and was frequented by poet mark Russian design called koko- practical tips on W12, Misailovo, Leninsky District ple come here, write down their clay ceramic cherubs, dating from Alexander Pushkin. Prince Nikolai shniki: corbel arches shaped like a %7-495-502-6366 and see an interactive map of wishes for their families and loved the 17th century, runs around the Yusupov (whose descendant be- woman’s headdress. Bridges, pavil- A nun lights a candle www.sabi.ru at the Assumption the area and its attractions ones, and give it to the priest so that outer walls of the cathedral. Over came notorious for killing Rasputin ions and other architectural follies A peaceful lake amid birch trees for fishing for Cathedral of the Holy A Gzhel jug depicting carp, perch and pike. at WSJ.com/Europe he will pray for them,” said a black- the next few decades, they influ- in 1916) acquired the palace in 1810 dot the landscaped gardens, where Trinity at Novo Golutvin the scene ‘All Power

robed monk. enced similar creations in Yaroslavl, and filled it with art. Many of his birch, ferns and lime groves flourish. Photos: AFP; Alamy; ITAR-TASS monastery in Kolomna. to the Soviets!’

W8 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 W9 v Travel Greater Architecture 1. Holy Trinity-St. Sergius Monastery Sergiyev Posad, Sergiyevo-Posadsky District %7-496-54-053-34; Escape from Moscow: Moscow (tours: %7-495-721-2677) www.stsl.ru A beautiful complex of cathedrals and other buildings, Sights worth seeing including the tomb of Russia's most important in Podmoskovye, the city's religious patriarch; a Unesco site. sprawling suburban region 2. New Jerusalem Monastery 2 Sovetskaya Street side trips in the city’s suburbs Istra, Istrinsky District %7-496-31-465-49 The architectural wonder combines Old Russian, classical and Baroque influences.

A papier-mâché box with the painted scene 3. Arkhangelskoye Estate By Joyce Man 'To the Civil War' from Fedoskino. Arkhangelskoye, Krasnogorsky District A104 %7-495-561-9759 Special to The Wall Street Journal www.arkhangelskoe.ru A stunning collection of 18th-century to 20th-century neoclassical architecture in Moscow's version of Versailles. M10 A108 OSCOW IS ONE of M6 4. Tsaritsyno Museum and Reserve the world’s great 1 Dolskaya Street, Moscow 12 % cities, a massive 1 7-495-322-6843 and vibrant testa- www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru ment to Russia’s The recently restored palace and landscaped gardens of Catherine the Great. historic and cur- The Arkhangelskoye Estate. rent power and wealth. M A108 But sometimes the bling—from Crafts M9 6 the line of Bentleys outside the A107 new Ritz-Carlton hotel near Red 5. Gzhel Amalgamation Square to the 150 ruble (Œ4) cof- Novokharitonovo, Ramensky District fees at the Starbucks branch—can 2 %7-246-475-07 M7 Quintessentially Russian ceramics be blinding. The city, rolling in oil from a centuries-old producer. cash, is increasingly expensive 7 (for the past two years, it was A107 3 Moscow 6. Fedoskino Lacquer Miniatures named the world’s most-expensive Fedoskino, Mytishchinsky District city to live in for expatriates by %7-495-577-9955 Mercer Consulting) and increas- 11 4 5 Elaborately painted papier-mâché boxes. ingly crowded. Last year, 11 mil- 8 lion tourists visited, including 13 7. Pavlovo Posad Shawl Factory four million foreigners. M1 9 5 Kalayevskaya Street Pavlovsky Posad, Pavlovo-Posadsky District Hotel room rates rose 11% last %7-49643-296-18 year from a year earlier and were A107 www.pavlovoposad.ru up 93% from 2004, to an average The central square at Shawls with an aristocratic pedigree. M3 P105 of more than 12,000 rubles a the Holy Trinity- night, according to Hogg Robinson St. Sergius Monastery. A101 History Group, a corporate-services com- A108 pany. ITAR-TASS 8. Borodino Museum and Reserve Luckily, visitors in search of a Borodino, Mozhaisky District quainter, quieter Russia don’t %7-49638-63-223; (tours: %7-496-38-51-522) have far to go. Podmoskovye, the 10 www.borodino.ru Architecture A108 Relive ‘War and Peace’ at this sprawling suburban region beyond Moscow’s battlefield memorial park. outermost ring highway, is full of interesting sights for travelers HE MOSCOW REGION—the Entrance to the monastery and a church-filled city 250 kilometers 50,000 acquisitions, including 18th- 9. Gorki-Leninskiye looking for a bit of relief from seat of an empire that de- its churches is free. Monks conduct northeast of Moscow. and 19th-century paintings by M2 State History Museum and Reserve M4 Moscow’s Wild West madness— Tpended heavily on the power tours in English. (Call to reserve a The red-brick ruins of what was French, Italian, English and Russian M5 Gorki-Leninskiye, Leninsky District from majestic palaces and war me- of the Russian Orthodox Church—is day ahead. See travel information once the belfry—shattered by a Nazi artists, are on display in the mu- %7-495-548-9309 morials to historic artisan work- home to some of Russia’s most im- on facing page.) bomb in 1941—remain, weathered seum. Jazz festivals draw visitors to www.gorki-len.narod.ru shops to natural spots for fishing pressive churches and palaces, as Three shops inside the monas- over nearly seven decades. With lit- the lawns every summer. Memories of Lenin’s last days. and hiking. well as some of the empire’s stron- tery sell remarkably delicious tle funding in Soviet times, restora- Tsaritsyno rivals Arkhangel- 10. Kolomna 0 50km The region, all within 20 min- gest and oldest fortifications. Lenten foods year round—the tion work has been slow. Birds skoye in name, scale and beauty. Kolomensky Kremlin utes’ to three hours’ drive from St. Sergius of Radonezh, the cre- monks observe periods of fasting— swoop in through uncovered win- The 18th-century, 700-hectare es- Kolomensky District the city center, is home to sleepy ator of monastic life as it is known including gingerbread cakes that re- dows, and the morning frost crystal- tate located 20 minutes south of A re-enactment of the 1812 Borodino battle at % the battlefield preserve and museum. Railways 7-4966-1203-37 and colorfully named towns such today in Russia, is buried 70 kilome- semble oversize muffin tops. The lizes on walls with cracking, centu- Moscow’s center (technically still www.kolomna-kreml.ru as Serp i Molot (Sickle and Ham- ters northeast of Moscow at the monastery also makes its own ries-old paint. within the city limits) is home to M4 Freeways, highways Awe-inspiring imperial fortifications mer) and Pravda (Truth) that Holy Trinity-St. Sergius Monastery, honey and “sbiten,” a drink of water, A museum at New Jerusalem’s Catherine the Great’s Grand Palace. in a strategic town. don’t usually figure on Moscow which he founded in 1345. Pilgrims honey and spices. north end—restored and modern in- Two architects, Vasily Bazhenov Novo-Golutvin Women's Monastery tour itineraries. come here to visit the saint’s tomb, a New Jerusalem Monastery, side with white, stuccoed walls— and Matvei Kazakov, began work at 11a Lazareva Street On these five pages we offer a silver-and-gold edifice encased in meanwhile, 50 kilometers north- houses fragments of the monas- the behest of the empress, but after Kolomensky District look at the region’s offerings in glass, but the site is a breathtaking west of Moscow, is a masterful exam- tery’s architectural story: an iron her death in 1796, the half-finished novogolutvin.ru crafts, architecture, history and assortment of cathedrals, chapels, ple of Old Russian, classical and Ba- bell salvaged from the belfry, icons palace was abandoned. Muscovites Chiming church bells and singing nuns outdoor sports. One can mix and bell towers, defensive battlements roque architecture. Its polychro- from the 17th to 20th centuries, and came to know and love Tsaritsyno at the Moscow Region's spiritual center. match a day trip based on geogra- and other structures, and is now a matic ceramic tiles spawned similar golden crosses inlaid with semipre- as an overgrown, weathered ruin— phy, or fashion a full tour based Unesco world-heritage site. Interi- craft around Russia. cious stones. until last September when it was re- Outdoors on a theme. ors of the churches are frescoed and Patriarch Nikon founded New About 20 kilometers west of Mos- stored at the request of Moscow 11. Moscow Stud Farm No. 1 include icons by the great painters Jerusalem in 1666 as the Russian Or- cow is Arkhangelskoye estate, Mayor Yuri Luzhkov. Andrei Rublyov and Simon Ushakov. thodox Church’s power swelled, and called the Versailles of the Moscow Today, the State Museum Re- Uspenskoye Settlement, Odintsovsky District Riding on the banks of the Moscow River Ride Russia's most impressive horses. Assumption Cathedral, with its the church and czars dubbed Mos- region—even though it is smaller serve Tsaritsyno is an odd, some- at the Moscow Stud Farm No. 1. gold and sky-blue domes, stands at cow the “Third Rome.” The com- and less grand than its French times discordant mix of the old and 12. Yakhroma, Volen and the monastery’s center. It is a copy plex’s main church, the Resurrec- cousin. But it is stunning nonethe- new—classical and gothic struc- Stepanovo mountain resorts of a larger, more famous cathedral tion Cathedral, though topped with less, a collection of 18th-to-20th- tures are painted in Disney-like col- Yakhroma Park with the same name in the Moscow gilded domes in the Russian tradi- century neoclassical buildings with ors, and a modern fountain wasn’t Yakhroma, Dmitrovsky District Kremlin. Trinity Cathedral, whose tion, was modeled after the Church colonnades, pediments and coffered in the original design. %7-495-981-8939 whitewashed walls glow in the sun- of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. ceilings set against a landscape of Even so, Tsaritsyno holds on to a www.ya-park.ru light, represents one of a few remain- Some of the most famous architects carefully pruned lawns, tree-lined al- certain charm. Catherine’s red pal- Volen Sports Park and Stepanovo Park ing white stone churches of the 14th- in Russia, including Francesco Bar- lées, flowery archways, statues and ace, with a classical plan, white 1 Troitskaya Street and 15th-century Moscow style. tolomeo Rastrelli—designer of Tsar- lonely bridges—all with a view of gothic detailing, large columns and Yakhroma, Dmitrovsky District The monastery continues its tra- skoe Selo and the Winter Palace in the Moscow River. ogival arcades, stretches 145 meters %7-495-993-9540 dition nearly 700 years after St. St. Petersburg—designed buildings The estate, now a state-owned long. Across a green field, the sec- www.volen.ru Winter and summer sports in scenic surroundings. Sergius founded the seminary here. in the monastery complex, which park and museum, has passed ond cavalier building, nicknamed Read a trip planner with A priest starts taking requests from also includes three other churches. through the hands of several the Octagon for its shape, has a trade- 13. Sabi Fishing Park visitors for prayers at 8 a.m. “Peo- A line of painted and glazed red- princes and was frequented by poet mark Russian design called koko- practical tips on W12, Misailovo, Leninsky District ple come here, write down their clay ceramic cherubs, dating from Alexander Pushkin. Prince Nikolai shniki: corbel arches shaped like a %7-495-502-6366 and see an interactive map of wishes for their families and loved the 17th century, runs around the Yusupov (whose descendant be- woman’s headdress. Bridges, pavil- A nun lights a candle www.sabi.ru at the Assumption the area and its attractions ones, and give it to the priest so that outer walls of the cathedral. Over came notorious for killing Rasputin ions and other architectural follies A peaceful lake amid birch trees for fishing for Cathedral of the Holy A Gzhel jug depicting carp, perch and pike. at WSJ.com/Europe he will pray for them,” said a black- the next few decades, they influ- in 1916) acquired the palace in 1810 dot the landscaped gardens, where Trinity at Novo Golutvin the scene ‘All Power

robed monk. enced similar creations in Yaroslavl, and filled it with art. Many of his birch, ferns and lime groves flourish. Photos: AFP; Alamy; ITAR-TASS monastery in Kolomna. to the Soviets!’

W8 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 W9 v Travel

Greater Moscow: Exploring the capital’s Fiction Plot Back story What grabbed us City of Thieves The offbeat coming-of-age tale of a teenage boy and a The author adapted his novel “The 25th The book captures wartime deprivation; it also David Benioff cocky young soldier. The pair witness the horrors of war Hour” for a Spike Lee movie. He hatched deftly portrays the bonds that are forged in the in Leningrad in 1942 when, during a time of suffering the idea for the new novel in 1999, but it worst of times. “You have never been so hungry; Out now, and starvation, they are sent by a took a while for it to come together. you have never been so cold….In June of 1941, Viking colonel to find eggs for his “After screenwriting for so many years, before the Germans came, we thought we were Crafts 258 pages, daughter’s wedding cake. you lose muscles you need for novel- poor. But June seemed like paradise by Winter,” £12.99 writing,” Mr. Benioff says. He says he Mr. Benioff writes. has no plans to adapt it into a film. OME OF RUSSIA’S most-loved souve- nirs—lacquered boxes, flowered Sshawls and white and cobalt-blue por- Beijing Coma A Tiananmen Square protestor Ma Jian can travel to China but can’t be published Mr. Ma’s skill at combining allegory, celain—are produced in historic artisan Ma Jian lies in a coma after being shot, there under his own name. He now lives in London history and poetry. The coma towns in the Moscow suburbs. reliving his past while confined with his partner, Flora Drew, who translates his victim’s thoughts were inspired Almost every Russian kitchen has some- May 27, Farrar, to his bed. Waking after a decade, books, which include “The Noodle Maker.” by “Classic of the Mountains thing from Gzhel porcelain works—or at Strauss & Giroux he finds the new China unrecognizable. and Seas,” an ancient Chinese least in the Gzhel style. The ceramic cups, 592 pages, poem likely written by samovars and teapots made here are cen- £17.99 several authors. tral to tea drinking, almost a religion in this country. Gzhel, located in Novokharitonovo, The Garden of Last Days A fact-based novel in which a The author’s novel “House of Sand and Fog” was an The author’s sympathy for all his characters draws in about 60 kilometers east of the center of Andre Dubus III terrorist behind the Sept. 11 attacks Oprah pick and became a movie. Booksellers think this the reader. “I don't know if I believe in villains,”Mr. Moscow, is the most famous of Russia’s ce- goes to Florida strip clubs, grappling could be big, too. “You’ll care about these people even Dubus says. “I believe in villainous behavior.” He spent ramics manufacturers for being a pioneer June 2, with his mission and as you’re horrified” by what they’re doing, says Mike five years on the book, including research on the of the craft, uniting the workshops of the W.W. Norton American temptations. Barnard, owner of Rakestraw Books, Danville, terrorists, Islam and Saudi Arabia. nearby town of Gzhel into a conglomerate 537 pages, It’s told from the point of California. and for the quality of its wares. You can £17.99 view of the terrorist— take a tour of the factory, visit the adjoin- and the strippers. ing museum and buy items in the shop. Producing since the 14th century, Gzhel makes works that typically come in blue Say You Are This debut collection features five harrowing stories The Nigerian-born author is a Jesuit priest The stories, such as “My Parents’ Bedroom,” about and white, hand painted with folk charac- One of Them about the perilous lives of children in various African who lives and teaches in Zimbabwe. His tribal massacres in Rwanda, can be brutal, but ters and entwined flowers and vines. The Uwem Akpan countries, covering subjects such as inter-tribal warfare native language is Annang, but he studied aren’t melodramatic. The children who utilitarian objects are formed in witty in Rwanda and the Gabon child-prostitution trade. in English, honing his skills with an MFA narrate describe events in a matter-of-fact shapes—a teapot in the form of a cottage, a June 9, Little, Brown at the University of Michigan. He got a tone that is free of self-pity. “I felt this was butter dish adorned with a milkmaid and 358 pages, book deal after one of his stories the way to give dignity to their voices,” her charge in relief. £11.99 appeared in the New Yorker. the author says. In the quality-control corner of Gzhel’s nondescript factory, aproned women tap the wares, listening for a crisp twang—the Finding Nouf In Saudi Arabia, the brother of Ms. Ferraris lived in Saudi Arabia after the first The insights into a cloistered world of Saudi women, signature sound of an object well baked. “If Zoë Ferraris a missing 16-year-old girl hires Gulf War with her then-husband, a Saudi- as well as the plight of men who have freedom of it doesn’t sound right, we break it,” to a Palestinian desert guide to Palestinian Bedouin, and grew fascinated with movement but are still bound by religious strictures. make sure no less-than-perfect item is of- June 20, help find her. The guide must men’s struggles there to meet suitable wives in It’s a compelling mystery story that also gives a fered for sale, said Natalya Zhukova, the fac- Houghton Mifflin navigate Islamic and Saudi a closed society. The story’s Muslim investigator sympathetic view of a culture that many people still tory’s tour guide. 305 pages, laws about women’s roles to will appear in two more books, she says. know little about. The museum shows some of Gzhel’s £12 find the truth. works over the years, including bulbous, flowerlike teacups, multicolored tiles used in radiant-heat Russian stoves, elaborate ce- My Sister, My Love The first-person narrative of 19-year-old Skyler The book was inspired by the The author's uncanny ability to blend satire with ramic chandeliers and even telephones with Joyce Carol Oates Rampike, whose 6-year old sister, JonBenét Ramsey case. Ms. in-depth character studies. The book also features dainty receivers and flowery swirls around ice-skating champion Bliss Oates says she wanted to explore witty footnotes weighing in on the action, à la Vladimir circular number dials. In the shop, blue-and- Left, the fringe on the shawls is June 24, Ecco Rampike, was murdered 10 life from inside a family that had Nabokov in “Pale Fire.” Sample: “Ugh! So abruptly white teacups with saucers are 550 rubles hand-tied at the Pavlovo Posad shawl 576 pages, years earlier. become notorious. She says the inside the mind of a sicko where for sure I do not wish (Œ15) a set, while gold-pattern sets go for factory, where (top) a machine stamps £13 novel is about “living in that to be any more than you do, reader.” 1,400 rubles. patterns on the cloth. Above, tabloid hell.” Russia’s lacquered boxes—once used for hand-painted ceramic spoons from Gzhel. snuff and small items such as postage and cards—are miniature masterpieces of folk The Guernsey Literary & Potato An epistolary novel about a writer who befriends a Author Mary Ann Shaffer was so fascinated by The book's warmth makes the painting. Papier-mâché boxes are hardened Peel Pie Society group of folks on Guernsey in the Channel Islands Guernsey she wanted to write about its role in narrative feel fresh and with glue and resin, then painted with intri- items, men often presented them as gifts Mary Ann Shaffer just after World War II, and learns about the book WWII in her first and only book. Ms. Shaffer died immediate. The late Ms. Shaffer cate, often idealized scenes of troika riding, when asking for a woman’s hand in mar- and Annie Barrows club they once formed to protect their members in February, after the book was sold. Her was taken by firsthand accounts sunset landscapes and peasant pleasures, or riage. during Nazi occupation. niece, Annie Barrows, a children’s book author, of the occupation, her niece says, episodes from legends—heroic princes bat- “I love shawls. I could collect them for- July 29, Dial Press took over revisions for the novel, which and felt letters would convey a tle dragons, and snow maidens enchant vil- ever,” said a tour guide, who said she had 288 pages, booksellers are embracing. sense of being there. lages. seven and wanted seven more. “It’s not just £12.99 The craft began in Russia two centuries for wearing. You can also use it to decorate ago in Fedoskino, about 35 kilometers north a table or throw over a couch.” of Moscow’s center. Here, in a several- The factory’s adjoining museum shows Pharmankon A look at Americans’ quest for happiness Dirk Wittenborn based part of the novel on The author keeps the plot moving over the book’s weeks-long process, artisans layer metal the process of making the patterns. When Dirk Wittenborn through the story of a self-centered Yale his father, a Yale professor. The author also 400-plus pages, with eccentric, John powders with oil paints and lacquer. “We the business began in 1795, the designs psychology professor who finds a drug that co-wrote the screenplay to a movie, “The Irving-like characters. The first apply an underlayer of aluminum or bronze were hand stamped with wood and copper July 31, alters people’s moods. The book follows the Lucky Ones,” starring Tim Robbins, out this fall. line is a winner: “I was born so [the image] retains its brightness after blocks; today a machine stamps the pat- Viking rise of psychopharmacology and the travails of the because a man came centuries,” said Irina Dyakova, a craftsman terns on the cloth. Each shawl can be 416 pages, professor’s smart, unhappy family from the 1950s to kill my father.” and the factory’s tour guide. printed with as many as 10 colors, and in £13.20 through the 1990s. The treated papier-mâché is extremely the old days, a single misplaced block could durable—as seen in some of the 19th-cen- ruin the design. Fringe is hand-tied onto tury samples in the factory’s museum. Work- the shawls, which are usually square in One More Year The stories in this debut collection trace the lives of Sana Krasikov was born in Ukraine and The stories focus more on character and ers wind cardboard around a mold, sub- shape, 90 to 150 centimeters a side. Sana Krasikov Russian immigrants in America as they try to make emigrated with her family to the U.S. when setting than on plot. “I have a more merge it in a vat of heated glue and dry it The earliest designs included flowers careers there—or enough she was 8. While on a Fulbright Fellowship novelistic approach, and a less in an oven. The item is returned to the kiln and paisley in intense greens, reds and Aug. 12, money to relocate back to in Moscow, researching a novel, she finished episodic approach to writing short to harden after each layer of paint and lac- blues against a black background. Today, Spiegel & Grau Russia. this collection. Two of the stories have run stories,” says Ms. Krasikov. quer. Above, a lacquered papier-mâché pastels, leopard prints and monochromes 208 pages, in the New Yorker. Souvenir stalls in the city are notorious box made at Fedoskino; right, have been introduced, and shawls in silk £11 for hawking cheap imitations; true lacquer- painting an ornament at Gzhel. have been added in recent decades. ware is expensive, because of the painstak- The manufacturer’s store sells shawls at ing process. In Fedoskino’s shop, 30-centi- factory prices, from 200 rubles to 1,800 ru- Photos: Alamy; ITAR-TASS; Newscom; AFP Berlin Book Two: City of Smoke A cartoon epic about Berlin between the two In the trilogy Mr. Lutes examines the The interweaving stories of a journalist, a meter panels with scenes of tea drinking bles. One pattern that has been popular for Jason Lutes world wars. The second volume of a planned “basic human impulses toward the desire prostitute, a black clarinetist, soldiers, politicians, and troika rides range from 32,000 rubles city of Pavlovsky Posad, Pavlovo Posad them. The shawls made by Pavlovo Posad 18 years for its intricate flower design in trilogy takes place following 1929’s deadly May for power," he says. The previous volume bureaucrats and others as they interact during the to 40,000 rubles. Shawl Factory produces another Russian fa- are known for their quality and fidelity to blue is the Maiya (1,080 rubles on Russian Aug. 20, Day demonstration, as pressure builds among sold about 13,000 copies—impressive for waning Weimar Republic give a human dimension to Unique designs are relatively more ex- vorite: wool shawls, or platki. Worn by aris- traditional patterns. wool or 1,700 rubles on Australian wool), Drawn & Quarterly communists, nationalists, Jews and Gentiles. a graphic novel—and went through three a seismic era. Mr. Lutes’s unsentimental black-and- pensive. A small box with a harlequin in pas- tocratic ladies in the 19th century—picture The warm, soft wraps entered the ward- named after the granddaughter of its de- 216 pages, Meanwhile, the city’s sordid nightlife booms. printings. It has been translated into white drawings are so understated that when tel colors playing a flute commands 18,200 Chekhov’s three sisters lounging around the robes of Russian aristocrats from France, signer, Ekaterina Regunova. The grand- £12.99 This comic isn’t for kids. several languages, including German violence erupts it has a jolt. rubles. drawing room—they became a wardrobe ba- and with Russia’s cold winters, they became daughter was born in 1989 the day her and Finnish. Eighty kilometers east of Moscow, in the sic when the factory began mass-producing indispensable. Because they were valuable grandmother completed the design.

W10 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 W7 v Books

From thrillers to satire, culturally rich suburban region we know what you’ll History HE HISTORIC MILITARY battles around Moscow began soon after the Tcity’s founding in the 12th century, from the 13th-century fight against the Ta- read this summer tar Hordes to the Battle of Moscow in World War II. One of the most resonant is the Battle of Borodino, in which the Russian Imperial By Robert J. Hughes first-time authors, including the short-story army fought Napoleon’s invading troops N ITALIAN SERIAL KILLER. A Chinese collections “One More Year” by Ukrainian- about 120 kilometers west of Moscow near coma victim. An American president in American Sana Krasikov and “Say You’re One the town of Borodino on Sept. 7, 1812. It Acrisis. This summer’s crop of books tack- of Them” by Uwem Akpan, a Jesuit priest was one of the biggest battles of the Napole- les a global range of subjects. from Nigeria. “One of the things that makes onic wars; 44,000 of the 120,000 Russian For our summer reading roundup, we American literature so vital at this point is soldiers died, and 30,000 of 130,000 French spoke with publishers, authors, independent that we have input from so many different cul- were killed. booksellers, online retailer Amazon and chain tures and linguistic backgrounds,” says Paul The Russians, under General Mikhail Ku- stores such as Barnes & Noble. We asked Yamazaki, coordinating buyer at City Lights tuzov, actually lost the battle, but strategi- them to name the coming releases they were bookstore in San Francisco. cally pulled back before being destroyed, most excited about—including such titles as Since it’s an election year in the U.S., drawing Napoleon even farther from his “The Monster of Florence,” “Beijing Coma” there’s a surge of political books. Among supply lines. The following month Napoleon and “One Minute to Midnight”—and picked them: a still-untitled work from Ron Suskind and his troops, starving and freezing, re- our favorites after reading the works they rec- on national security, “Your Government Failed treated to Poland. ommended. You” by Richard A. Clarke and “What Hap- The battle became a textbook case of the In the coming weeks, bookstores will wel- pened” by former White House press secre- failure of an overextended army, as well as come new works by some best-selling au- tary Scott McClellan. the inspiration for numerous works of art, thors, including essayist David Sedaris Here, our summer reading list. music and literature, including Tolstoy’s (“When You Are Engulfed by Flames”), Andre “War and Peace.” Dubus III (“The Garden of Last Days”), Joyce Today the battlefield is part of the Carol Oates (“My Sister, My Love”) and Sal- WSJ.com Borodino War and History Museum and Re- man Rushdie (“The Enchantress of Florence”). serve. The 110-square-kilometer site pre- “I had a dream the other night that I did a Further reading serves the rolling, grassy meadows where book signing and signed five books,” jokes Mr. Read excerpts from some of these books, the battle took place, with 300 memorials Sedaris, one of the industry’s biggest draws. plus a Q&A with author David Sedaris, at at important sites of the battle, including “I realize I’m very lucky.” WSJ.com/Europe the commanding points of Kutuzov and Na-

The summer will also see books by many Photos: Retna Ltd.; Zuma Press/Newscom; Anne Fishbein; Tatiana Krasikov; Getty Images; Illustration: Aaron Goodman poleon. (You can also see pillboxes and other defensive works built in 1941 for the Battle of Moscow.) Maps of the territory Cannons on display at the Battle of Borodino history museum and reserve, site of one of the largest battles in the Napoleonic era. are available at the main museum building. In the museum, you can see historic uni- forms from both the Russian and French strokes in 1924. It was here (when the vil- In the garage is a telling detail of how ter the 17th century—Moscow grew more armies—the French in red and navy short lage was just called Gorki) that Lenin, in ill the socialist revolutionary actually lived: a powerful and was able to defend itself coats with tails, with red or gold piping and health after the revolution, retreated to his gray-blue 1916 Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost, out- against the Tatars—and as a result, the epaulettes; the Russians in beige or blue an- Doric-columned mansion at the end of Birch fitted with oversize skis and caterpillar city’s role in the Orthodox church was ac- kle-length coats—as well as old maps and Alley. tracks to travel in snow. The vehicle, main- centuated. Established as a diocese in 1350, strategy plans. There is also a section cover- His house has been preserved as a mu- tained by Adolf Kergess, the former chauf- Kolomna’s metropolitan—equivalent to an ing “War and Peace.” Tolstoy traveled here seum (called the Gorki-Leninskiye estate), feur of Tsar Nicholas II, was one of nine archbishop—is one of six permanent mem- Non-Fiction Plot Back story What grabbed us in September 1867 to do research for the but unlike most museums glorifying the life Rolls-Royces used by Lenin. bers of the Russian Orthodox Church’s holy novel, and some of the books he used are of the revolutionary leader, this one tells In the 14th century, the city of Kolomna, synod. When You Are Engulfed Quirky essays drawn from the Mr. Sedaris’s books have sold more than seven million Memoirs aren’t the most trusted literary form right on display, as well as photographs of the the story of Lenin as a dying man. 115 kilometers southeast of Moscow, on the Most important for visitors are the city’s in Flames author’s past with his eccentric copies, and his tours can fill concert venues. Before he now—but Mr. Sedaris says his comic tales aren’t area from the time period. Clocks and calendars are frozen at the strategic confluence of the Moscow and Oka 20 churches and four monasteries. Some Weapons are displayed: cannonballs, moment of Lenin’s death—6:50 p.m., Jan. rivers, was Russia’s second richest after that closed or became run down in Soviet David Sedaris family (his sister is comedian- goes out, he writes new essays and tries them out on memoirs. “They're much choppier than that,” he says. actress Amy Sedaris), audiences. “The tours cut down on my writing time,” He gets his ideas from the diaries he’s been keeping muskets and grenade shards. Toy soldiers 21—and one can see the iron-and-wicker Moscow. Today, what remains of the city’s times have been revived in recent decades. July 3, Little, Brown his years in New York he says. New for this tour: an essay about two train since he was 20. “I don't think I’m better than anybody are arranged on a model of Borodino, pro- wheelchair and bottles of sedative powder fortifications is a stunning example of medi- The city has rebuilt the Church of Nikola in 323 pages, and his life in France. trips he took. Coming soon: his first book of fiction, else at remembering,” says Mr. Sedaris, 51. “Like viding an overview of the entire battle. he used, as well as the plaster cast of his eval defensive architecture. Posad’s elaborate 16th-century roof made £11.99 brief fables about animals. everyone else, I remember things that were strange.” Every year on Borodino Day, the first face and hands made hours after death. (Le- Italian architects—including Aleviso up of kokoshniki arches and reopened the Sunday in September, the museum orga- nin’s body was later embalmed and moved Novi, who built the Moscow Kremlin—de- Church of Nikola Gostinogo, one of Russia’s nizes a re-enactment of the battle, in which to the mausoleum on Red Square.) signed the oval-shaped red-brick city walls. first to be constructed of brick. The As- thousands of Russians take part in full rega- In the days before his death, Stalin and Kolomna’s kremlin rivaled Moscow’s in sumption Cathedral Church, a 17th-century A minute-by-minute account of the 1962 Cuban Missile Mr. Dobbs wanted to write about the Missile Crisis Mr. Dobbs argues that while many academics have One Minute to Midnight lia wielding bayonets, flags and trumpets other Communist Party officials came to length and was designed so defenders could remake of a 14th-century original that com- Crisis, when the U.S. and U.S.S.R. were close to nuclear while there were still survivors to interview. He says studied the crisis, the “human story has been lost.” Michael Dobbs and riding horses lent from nearby Moscow see the leader, but what is most interesting repel attackers with frontal fire from the memorates Russia’s victory over invading war over Soviet missile installations in Cuba. The book the threat of disaster didn’t The author details some little-known tales within the Stud Farm No. 1 (see the Outdoors section here are the remnants of Lenin’s private walls and flanking fire from the towers. Mongols, reopened in 1999 and now hosts features new data about the movement of Soviet come from the decisions of larger drama, such as the errant flight of Charles June 5, for more on this horse stable). Last year life. Lenin read German, English, Italian and Seven of the 17 towers remain, including the city’s main religious services on holi- forces based on declassified government documents Kennedy or Khrushchev, but Maultsby's U-2 reconnaissance plane, which Knopf drew 2,000 re-enactors, 200 horses and French, and books in foreign languages, in- Granovitaya Tower, sliced almost perfectly days. and interviews with surviving Russian participants. from unpredictable events drifted into Soviet airspace. 448 pages, more than 100,000 spectators to watch the cluding by Goethe and Shakespeare, line the in a cross section to reveal its thickness At 4:30 p.m. every day, chimes of the while “the military machine £20 battle re-enacted step-by-step. library shelves. He loved Russian authors, and height. The kremlin walls are four bell tower at the Novo-Golutvin Women’s cranked along.” The village of Gorki-Leninskiye, 35 kilo- too, and had tomes by Tolstoy, Turgenev meters thick and 20 meters tall. Some sec- Monastery signal the beginning of evening meters south of Moscow, is the site of Le- and Pushkin. Legend has it Lenin could de- tions have walkways along the top. worship, where the nuns’ singing can be The Monster of Florence The story of one of Italy’s most notorious serial Best-selling thriller author Douglas Preston, when The authors offer up their theories nin’s final illness and death from a series of vour up to 600 pages a day. Kolomna lost its strategic importance af- heard. Douglas Preston killers, who has eluded capture for decades; his living in Florence in 2000, learned about the about who the killer could be, and why and Mario Spezi identity remains uncertain. One of the co-authors, murderer who attacked lovers in their cars and the case matters. “Many countries have Italian journalist Mario Spezi, was jailed when Italian killed 14 people. It was, he says, “the most horrific a serial killer who defines his culture by June 10, Grand Central authorities accused him of being the killer. (He was story I’ve ever come across in my life.” Mr. Preston a process of negation…by exposing its Publishing, 322 pages, later released and the prosecutors involved were teamed up with Mr. Spezi, who had covered the black underbelly….England had Jack the £13 censured.) case, to investigate the crime. Ripper….Italy had the Monster of Florence,” they write.

Rome: 1960 The 1960 Olympics in Rome took place at the height of Mr. Maraniss says the Rome Mr. Maraniss makes the case that the 1960 games David Maraniss the Cold War and on the cusp of the Civil Rights Olympics featured a “great captured a key moment. In one passage he writes, movement, when black American athletes such as setting, wonderful “The forces of change were profound and palpable in July 1, Rafer Johnson, Wilma Rudolph and Cassius Clay won characters.” He interviewed the Eternal City. In sports, culture, and politics— Simon&Schuster gold medals. It was also the infancy of televising the many athletes from Russia, interwoven in so many ways—one could see an old 456 pages, games. Italy and elsewhere for the order dying and a new one being born. With all its £14 book. promise and trouble, the world as we see it today was coming into view.” Lenin’s ski-equipped Rolls-Royce and his death mask on display at the Gorki-Leninskiye estate, The kremlin in Kolomna, once a strategic stronghold at the confluence of the Moscow and Oka rivers. where the revolutionary leader died after a series of strokes in 1924. Right, a nun rings the bells at Kolomna’s Novo-Golutvin Women’s Monastery.

W6 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 W11 v Travel v Food & Drink

Sports and sightseeing in Moscow’s suburbs TopPicks: in Paris, Goya’s engraved visions Paris n art Outdoor sports In a clear and impressive demonstra- tion of the passing of the artistic T IS NO WONDER many of Mos- torch from one generation to the cow’s 10.5 million denizens next, the “Goya Engraver” exhibit at Ileave town every summer for the Petit Palais opens with engrav- suburban holiday dachas. The coun- ings by Rembrandt, Velázquez and tryside around the metropolis is Tiepolo that were models for the filled with lakes and forests of birch, young Francisco Goya y Lucientes the silvery-white tree that epito- (1746-1828), and it ends with mizes Russian rural beauty. Among works by Delacroix, Manet, Odilon Muscovites’ favorite pastoral pas- Redon and others directly inspired times are horseback riding, skiing by their great Spanish predecessor. and fishing. In between, the exceptional Moscow Stud Farm No. 1, 35 kilo- show brings together for the first meters southwest of the city, was Robert Mondavi at his time 210 of Goya’s own works on once a central source of horses for winery in Oakville, California, paper from two private collections the Red Army’s cavalry. Founded in

in a photo from 2001. that were separately donated to © Petit Palais/Roger-Viollet 1924, it was the only auctioning the Petit Palais and the French Na- Corbis ground where foreign buyers could tional Institute of Art History, along Above, ‘The Caprices, Plate 62, buy domestic breeds. Today, it is an with several rare prints from the Volaverunt’ (‘They Have Flown’), idyllic, wooded landscape for train- Bibliothèque Nationale. Simply and from 1799, by Francisco Goya; ing, trail riding, countryside walks beautifully presented, it offers a below ‘Homage to Goya, Plate 5, A and even rides in troika carriages. A toast to a wine pioneer unique retrospective of Goya’s four Strange Juggler,’ from 1885, by Visitors here can ride Orlov Trot- powerful graphic series: “The Ca- Odilon Redon. ters, a breed developed in Russia in HE FIRST TIME WE traveled they were widely available. Unlike are no better than jug wines? The prices,” “The Disasters of War,” “Bull- the late 19th century and known for to California together, more some later cult wines, whose appeal winery was sold to Constellation fighting” and “The Disparates.” its speed and stamina. The quick Tthan 30 years ago, our ulti- was that they were hard to find, Brands in 2004. Begun in 1793, after the illness called The Proverbs), produced to- trot makes the horses well suited to mate destination was a shrine: the Mondavi wines were accessible in On the same day that Mr. Mon- that left the artist almost totally ward the end of his life, in exile in troikas. The stable has a statue of its A troika driven by Russian champion Alexander Pankov at Moscow Stud Farm No. 1. Top right, a mountain biking course at Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa Val- every way, from availability to taste. davi died, our daughter Zoë spent deaf, the Caprices (Los Caprichos) Bordeaux, Goya returns to nightmar- most famous Orlov Trotter, Kvad- Yakhroma resort. Lower right, during the winter, a Skijoring race at the resort. ley. Along the way, we spent two They were democratic wines, and her last day in high school and our are wild flights of dark fantasy— ish phantoms and monsters. They rat, who held the record as the fast- nights in San Francisco. On the first democratic in the best sense. They daughter Media packed up her dorm skeletal hags flirting coquettishly were never published in his lifetime, est Orlov in the 3,200-meter race night, we ate at Ernie’s, where we were wines that we could reach, but room for the trip home after her with their mirrors, a seated donkey and the plates were discovered in from 1950 to 1986, and sired 600 off- If a sleigh ride is more your pace, ery winter weekend to groomed more common in Russia, downhill drank a 1974 Mondavi Reserve Cab- they made us stretch a little, think a freshman year. There were so many gazing at a book of donkey por- his country home, the “House of ITAR-TASS spring around the Soviet Union. three-horse troikas, as well as two- slopes blanketed with snow, com- skiing is gaining popularity. ernet Sauvignon that created such a little, grow a little. pages turning we could feel the traits in “Back to His Ancestors,” a the Deaf Man,” only after the death The farm’s territory includes or single-horse wagons, are avail- plete with piped in Euro lounge mu- During the summer, when the re- wooded shore, which are dotted potent memory in our life together With each passing year, we really breeze. What could be more appro- man dozing at a table haunted by of his son Javier in 1854. Once pub- grassy fields and woods, four are- able. The troika’s grace lies in the sic. The slopes are lit, so skiers can gion has up to 15 hours of sunlight, with whimsical sculptures made of did drink a 1974 Mondavi Cabernet priate than opening our last bottle malevolent owls and menacing bats lished, along with all of the earlier nas, and the upper course of the three horses’ staggered pace: The stay until 2 a.m. tourists swim or go mini-golfing at birchwood. Strawberries abound in on our anniversary. We know, for in- of 1974 Robert Mondavi Cabernet? in “The Sleep of Reason Engenders series they provided a “beacon,” Moscow River, clean enough for a middle animal trots while the side Yakhroma is perfect for novices, Volen. At Yakhroma, you can rent a the summer and mushrooms in the Tastings stance, that the bottles we drank on This wasn’t one we’d had all Monsters.” said Baudelaire, for the Romantics dip. On a recent afternoon, the in- horses gallop. If you’re lucky, Alex- with wide, gentle slopes, including bike to try the Nord Shor Extreme fall for picking. our second and fourth anniversa- these years—we never could have Napoleon’s invasion of Spain in and upcoming 19th-century artists, door manege was alive as students ander Pankov, a Russian troika one for beginners’ lessons, and mountain-biking course. Both Volen In the winter, fishermen in fur- DOROTHY J. GAITER ries both seemed slightly tired, imagined we’d need 30 of them, but 1808 was followed by a popular up- as is documented by Delacroix’s il- and trainers practiced their canters champion and one of the stable’s ready instructors at reasonable and Yakhroma have log cabins to lined gloves and thick, warm camou- AND JOHN BRECHER while the bottle on our third, in time does fly when you’re sharing rising, French reprisals and in 1814 lustrations for Faust, Redon’s Surre- and jumps. staff, will drive your troika or even rates (900 rubles per person per rent; Yakhroma’s 13 Stepanovskoye flage jackets—they sell cheaply in 1982, was, as we put it, “Great! Huge wine together. A generous friend the return of the fiercely repressive alist visions and Manet’s superb “Ex- The stables house 500 horses; be- teach a lesson in the delicate Rus- hour, or about Œ24). Volen, on an ad- Inns are each a cabin with three Moscow’s markets—ice fish from fruit, overwhelming pepper, still gave us this bottle—the Reserve, monarchy of Ferdinand VII. The “Di- ecution of Emperor Maximilien.” sides the Orlov Trotters there are sian art. To request a ride or a les- jacent property a 10-minute stroll rooms, three bathrooms and a pri- the snow-covered surface. that we decided to open a 1974 Mon- could use some years. Massive, which was aged in barrel for 30 sasters of War” was Goya’s re- As if all this weren’t enough, the mainly Russian Trotters, Trakeh- son, call a day in advance across the Kamenka River, has vate sauna, for 24,000 rubles a A day rate of 3,000 rubles in- davi Cabernet every year on our an- fruity nose you could smell across months—a few years ago, from his sponse—stark, bleak, cruel images visitor-friendly show also offers ners and Hanovers. Look for Alba- (% 7-495-634-81-77). steeper slopes for advanced begin- night on weekends. cludes any catch of up to 10 kilo- niversary. The second night, at a Chi- the table, with lots of oak overtones. own cellar, and it was in outstand- that have never been surpassed in wall-panel introductions to each tross, an Arabian that Russian Presi- The Yakhroma, Volen and ners. Stepanovo, three kilometers Fishing for carp, perch and pike grams in total. Beyond that, each ki- nese restaurant called the Imperial Orange tint at the edges. Big, incredi- ing shape, with a high fill. their condemnation of all warfare. “I segment in French, Spanish and En- dent Vladimir Putin gave the farm’s Stepanovo ski resorts are clustered away, has a longer, bumpier ride on is popular in the many natural and logram is charged per type of fish. Palace, we had a Mondavi Fumé bly rich, complex and peppery. It was clear from the nose the mo- saw this,” the artist’s caption for glish, and a small side gallery dem- riding school in 2005, with the condi- about 60 kilometers north of Mos- its one-kilometer run. The parks stocked lakes around Moscow. At No license is needed. Before visitors Blanc that was so perfect with the Eaten with veal roast.” ment we opened the long, intact one of the 82 works in the series, onstrating the various techniques tion that only the best students were cow, in the Klinsko-Dmitrovskaya also offer tobogganing, ice-skating, Sabi, for example, 25 kilometers leave, park managers weigh their meal that we still remember what It wasn’t just the Cabernet. Dur- cork that the wine was still good. might stand for them all. But as of copper-plate engraving—etching, to ride it (director Alexander Filin mountains. tubing, sledding and snowmobiling. southeast of Moscow, fishermen catch and determine the amount to we ate: shrimp with rice paper. ing a romantic weekend in 1983 at The color was orange and light red, passionate as his feelings were dry point, burin, aquatint—and li- says tourists can ride the horse). Streams of Muscovites arrive ev- Although cross-country has been cast lines from docks along the be paid. When Robert Mondavi died two the Vista Hotel in the World Trade with fiery highlights. When we first about conveying the horror of what thography. —Judy Fayard weeks ago at the age of 94, the obitu- Center, the sommelier noted our in- opened it, the wine still had a core of he had seen, notes curator Maryline Until June 8 aries talked about how he had revital- terest in wine and sold us some- vibrant fruit with a great sense of Assante di Panzillo, his technique % 33-1-53-43-40-00 ized the American wine industry and thing from his personal cellar: a rare rich, sweet earth. There was cedar remained rigorous and masterful, www.petitpalais.paris.fr that is certainly true. But to people of half-bottle of Mondavi 1978 “Botry- and a slight tone of citrus. It was with no hint of expressionism. a certain age—and we happen to be tis” Sauvignon Blanc dessert wine. quite warming, with the essence of The “Bullfighting” series is more Trip planner Hotels and hockey. Governing political exactly that age—his impact was dra- Our notes on the wine, which we re- old grapes and earth. Although re- observation than condemnation, Hotels and sanatoriums left party United Russia holds party matic, timeless and highly personal. member vividly, are endless and in- laxed and clearly old, it wasn’t over capturing the action with astonish- How to get there over from the Soviet era remain and media gatherings there sev- We came of age, wine-wise, with clude this: “Nose was pure nectar, the hill. ing fluidity and movement. Legend Podmoskovye, the official popular, and new establishments eral times a year (Odintsovo-Va- the 1974 harvest. We had met a year with every imaginable fruit. So in- It got better with the second had it, inaccurately, that it was the name for the administrative re- have sprung up in the region khromeyevo; % 7-495-616-0820; earlier and become seriously inter- credibly rich that we took very glass, with sweeter fruit and a hint Moors who brought bullfighting to gion around Moscow, covers a around Moscow. Near the St. www.bor.pansion.ru; 4,600-5,200 ested in wine over the following small sips, then let it linger for sev- of prunes. After it was open for 12 Spain, so Goya’s fictional early mata- vast area, stretching out 100 to Sergius Monastery, try the rubles). months. As it happens, 1974 was the eral minutes. The amazing thing is minutes, it seemed 10 years dors wear the Moorish turbans and 150 kilometers in all directions wooden, Russian-style Russky vintage that put the eight-year-old that it was not thick at all. It simply younger, with chocolate and tangy costumes of Napoleon’s North Afri- from the capital. Commuter Dvorik, which movie stars fre- Restaurants Mondavi winery over the top, with a coated our mouths with pure taste.” fruit. “Ripe grapes, sun and earth— can troops. And in several surprising trains run regularly to many of quent (14/2 Mitkina Street, Near Arkhangelskoye, head to superior, abundant harvest of beau- We never met Mr. Mondavi. We winemaking like it used to be before views, toreador Mariano Ceballos the towns worth visiting, but at Sergiyev Posad; Deti Solntsa for salads, chops tiful California fruit. In 2003, when never felt we needed to. We felt we the industry screwed it up,” Dottie rides one bull as he fights another. % least a basic knowledge of Rus- driver. The office is at Sher- 7-496-547-5392; and meat dumplings (4 Pogodina he was approaching 90 and too hard knew him. In fact, of course, things said at this point. At 40 minutes, the In “The Disparates” (sometimes © Bibliothèque de l’INHA, collections Jacques Doucet sian is needed to negotiate them. emetyevo 2. www.russky-dvorik.ru; Street, Staroye Peredelkino; of hearing to speak with us by behind the curtain were much nose was filled with rose petals and For an easier option, rent a car, Some Moscow companies of- 3,200-6,400 rubles a night for a % 7-495-730-8989; phone, Mr. Mondavi told us through darker than we could have imag- the finish had some cinnamon and or a car with a driver. fer a combination of interpreta- double room. www.detisolntsa.ru; 700 rubles a a spokeswoman that the 1974 vin- ined. The book “The House of Mon- nutmeg. We kept expecting the wine Podmoskovye is fed by more tion, tour guiding, chauffeur and North of New Jerusalem Mon- person). tage showed everyone what was pos- davi,” by our colleague Julia Flynn to crash at any minute, but it didn’t. than a dozen radial highways. car rental. Try Moscow Tour astery are Istra Holiday’s luxury Near Moscow Stud Farm, dine sible at his winery—and with Ameri- Siler, is a heartbreaking look at how We drank the bottle over an hour Getting to the destinations in Guide (% 7-495-565-6163; cottages (Trusovo village, Sol- among Russia’s richest at can wine in general. many tears were mixed with that and a half and it never lost its fruit. this story can take anywhere www.moscowguidedtours.com), nechnorgorsk region; A.V.E.N.U.E., which serves Italian At that very particular time in wine. And, indeed, by the time we be- In fact, even the sediment was from 40 minutes to three hours where you can hire a guide at % 7-495-731-6199; and French dishes (Barvikha Lux- American wine history, Mondavi gan writing our column and tasting cloudy but drinkable, so we ended by car, depending on the dis- Above, the traditional Russian stove $25 an hour or a car with a www.istraholiday.ru; 6,100-7,300 ury Village, Rubloyvskoye- wines were something truly differ- for a living, in 1998, Mondavi was the bottle with a nice little tannic tance and the road congestion. at Tsar’s Hunt restaurant; right, Istra driver starting at $25 an hour. rubles). Uskpenskoye Shosse; ent. The label and the bottling were clearly on the downslide. The win- kick. We didn’t have the wine with a Traffic along the radial highways Holiday cottages. Road signs are in Russian, so For something completely dif- % 7-495-980-6806; 2,300 rubles). as lovely and understated as Lafite. ery’s good reputation outlived its spectacular meal, by the way. We is always heavy, although not so take a day or two to learn the ferent, Zvenigorod Sanatorium, For something more Russian While many fine French wines were quality. Whenever we’d mention in a drank it while watching “En- bad outside rush hours. Cyrillic alphabet in order to rec- near Moscow Stud Farm, is a spa near the stable, try Tsar’s Hunt, so elegant and high-bred that they column that we didn’t like a Mon- chanted,” for the second time, with Hertz and Auto Europe have locations, with one close to Sher- ognize place names. For maps, in a 19th-century columned es- which is styled like a hunting seemed austere, Mondavi’s wines davi wine, we would receive out- our daughters. offices in Sheremetyevo 2 and emetyevo. A standard five-seater go to Dom Knigi Moskva (8 Tver- tate once owned by Tsar Pavel I lodge and serves Uzbek, Russian had both structure and generosity. raged letters from readers saying, As we have said so very often, Domodedovo, Moscow’s two runs about Œ100 a day. skaya Street; % 7-495-629-6483; (Zvenigorod; % 7-495-992-4134; and other Eastern European They had the class of a master wine- heavens, don’t you know what we wine isn’t just a liquid in a bottle. main international airports. Avis In Russia, Budget car rental is www.moscowbooks.ru) where a www.san-zven.ru; 1,980-3,100 ru- dishes (186A Rublyovskoye- maker and the ripeness of the Cali- owe Robert Mondavi? But within a Good wine is somebody’s passion. is in Sheremetyevo but will trans- a chauffeur service, with hourly helpful staff will help you navi- bles). Uskpenskoye Shosse, Zhukovka fornia sun, a magical combination few years, the tide had turned. When you drink a bottle of wine that 12-18 JUNE 2008 fer cars within Moscow for 730 rates of Œ40 to Œ90. You may not gate through their large selec- Bor, near Gorki-Leninskiye, Village; % 7-495-418-7938; 1,700 few had accomplished. The wines Then, whenever we said something someone cared about, you are drink- rubles (Œ20). Thrifty is at three rent a car without a Budget tion. has cottages, horseback riding rubles). were more expensive than many, good about a Mondavi wine we’d get ing that person’s art and maybe a lit- Grosvenor House Park Lane London W1 but not so expensive that they be- outraged letters saying, heavens, tle bit of his or her soul. Here’s to Telephone +44 (0)20 7399 8100 came special-occasion wines. And don’t you know Mondavi products you, Bob. www.grosvenorfair.co.uk

W12 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 W5 v Fashion v Taste China’s Prodigy Market

By Barbara Jepson Prize at the age of 6, Peng Peng Girls’ Night Out is one of three students featured Thirty-two years after the end as soloists during the tour by the By Pia Catton New York Post to advertise (in music. The driver—who is wear- of its Cultural Revolution, China 93-member Juilliard Orchestra, The ‘Sex’ effect on office dressing hot-pink type) a one-night-only ing a tank top that shows off her is buzzing with once-forbidden two of whom were born in China. “Sex and the City: The Movie” shopping event dubbed “Girls’ perfectly toned arms—gets out of Western classical music activity, Concerts in Beijing, Suzhou and heads into its opening weekend to- Night Out.” The ad promised en- the car and tosses the keys to a building world-class concert halls Shanghai, led by Zhang Xian, asso- ET’S TALK ABOUT “Sex” for a Richard Billion, legal director for women” surveys shows attractively day. And it’s a sure bet that the- tertainment, treats and “summery valet. “You’ll take care of my and expanding its conservatory ciate conductor of the New York moment. credit-score developer Fair Isaac detailed blazers, collared or mod- aters will be populated by swarms refreshments” during the spree. baby, right?” she coos. facilities. According to Chinese Philharmonic and a graduate of L With this week’s opening Corp., wrote that distracting estly high-necked shirts, and strik- of overexcited, excessively The W Hotel chain has created The camera pulls back to re- music-industry executives, more Beijing’s Central Conservatory of of the “Sex and the City” movie, get clothes reduce a saleswoman’s credi- ing scarves or necklaces that dis- groomed gals who will see the a Girls Getaway weekend intended veal that the driver and some of than 40 million youngsters are Music, include tributes to China’s ready for a flood of body-baring, bility. “I become very suspicious of tract attention from what lies be- flick, then splurge on rounds of for bachelorette parties, birthdays her glamorous friends, wearing currently studying the piano or recent earthquake victims. Fac- haute-priced fashion inspired by the product or service being sold if low. The bold necklace often plays sugary cocktails. It won’t be the or just some good old-fashioned party dresses and high heels, are violin. “The joke in some cities,” ulty members will offer master the 300-some outfits worn in the a woman representing the seller in the role of a man’s necktie. first time they’ve had such an fun in the city. Well, not exactly pregnant. The voice-over brags says pianist Gary Graffman, classes in piano, violin, oboe and film by the characters Carrie, Sa- any capacity is not conservatively The clothes of powerful women, evening. This is a girls’ night out. old-fashioned. The package, which that the car is big enough for six. former president of the elite Cur- woodwind quintet. mantha, Charlotte and Miranda. dressed,” Mr. Billion wrote. executives like Angela Braly of Well- And even if it doesn’t take place at starts at $509, was created in “Or 12, depending on how you tis School of Music in Philadel- China’s booming economy and Hollywood and the fashion indus- I suspect that many women are point, Anne Mulcahy of Xerox and night or “out,” it’s become a sacred partnership with the Los Angeles- look at it.” The message is an in- phia, “is that if you see a kid on one-child policy have created a try are gearing up themed fashion sabotaging their own career ad- Irene Rosenfeld of Kraft, are more part of American female culture. based Booty Par- clusive one, accord- the street who is not carrying a rising middle class with a pas- vancement without realizing it. about subtlety than overstatement. As a television series, “Sex lor, which de- ing to branding ex- violin case, it’s because he or she sion for education. “Parents have Dressing suitably is a social skill— The flair, where there is some, lies in and the City” relied on the regu- scribes itself as “a Single women pert Karl Heiselman, is studying the piano.” become intensely focused on On Style and social skills are necessary to ad- the curved cut of a collar, the twist lar meetings of the four leading sexy beauty prod- CEO of Wolff Olins: Not surprisingly, this burgeon- their child,” suggests Mr. Polisi. actresses—over drinks, lavish din- ucts and lifestyle with disposable “It says you don’t CHRISTINA BINKLEY vance on the corporate ladder. of the jewelry, the weave of a blouse. ing prodigy market is of great in- “The areas they work on are the Is a double standard at work? Un- It is style, not fashion. ners or the old-reliable brand.” It provides income party have to be single or terest to the sciences, math doubtedly. Men who dress inappro- brunch—to advance the plot. Guts in-home parties together at the live in Manhattan to leading inter- and music; shows and an advertising blitz to priately can also get sidelined, but were spilled. Plans were hatched. that spark conver- have girls’ night out.” national con- the musical ex- help us all look like “Sex” heroines. New Line Cinema/Everett Collection it’s harder for them to fail. The male Arbitrage Tawdry aphorisms were spoken. sation about sex drop of a On the flip side of servatories. perience is There are even online guides to Above, the characters in ‘Sex and the wardrobe is an armor that disguises But even if the conversations and relationships. cellphone. the marketing coin is Faculty mem- seen as an im- dressing like your favorite charac- City.’ Powerful real-world women like vulnerable body parts while sending The price of an were too witty for real life, the The home ver- that going out with bers have long portant ele- ter. Patricia Field, the show’s cos- Erin Callan (right), chief financial subtle signals. A gray suit suggests group outings were not just televi- sion is based on the girls can be a functioned as ment in the tume designer, is selling the movie’s officer of Lehman Brothers, dress hidden power, a blue Oxford button- Hermès beach towel sion clichés. They reflected urban the Tupperware form of business net- informal tal- child’s intellec- fashions—such as a $3,000 conservatively, with just a few bold down is hard-working, and French life. Single, childless women with party model: A “Bootician”—who working. Ms. Gardner is part of a ent scouts as tual and social Swarovski crystal-encrusted hand- accessories such as necklaces. cuffs rule Wall Street. Women don’t disposable incomes go out to- makes a commission on the sale group of 20 to 30 women in film, they travel upbringing.” bag shaped like the Eiffel Tower, have an easily deciphered fashion gether at the drop of a cellphone. of designer sex toys, sexy beauty television and other creative around the Parental in- which her Web site proclaims is this code, which just makes it easier to The gathering could include a products and more—leads the dis- fields who meet once a month for world perform- volvement is year’s “It bag.” were more trashy than liberating. make a big mistake. meal, and there’s often a certain cussion and games. In the hotel dinner. “Now that women are go- ing concerts, vital for the version, the Bootician can set up ing out there and forging their As anyone who lived through it As Carrie might write in one of Clothes can determine whether amount of pampering involved, giving master development own paths,” she said, “I can testify, the TV show “Sex and her columns: Has sexy office attire you land a job commanding the head too, such as manicures, classes or serv- of talent. “In pedicures or massages. think there is a desire for the City” was wildly influential over gone a step too far? Women now feel of the conference table. Nancyjane ing on compe- Asian societ- It’s nightlife, though, camaraderie and support.” the past decade. It not only intro- empowered to be girlie, flash cleav- Goldston, founder and CEO of the tition juries. ies,” notes Yo- that sets up the biggest In the past, women may duced a generation of women to age or have a rollicking good time. UXB, an advertising and branding “They meet heved Kaplin- contrast between how a have spent more time in sin- Getty Images high-fashion brands like Blumarine But how liberating is that if these agency in Los Angeles, told me re- these young sky, head of City Local currency Œ single girl today spends gle-sex settings, thought it Pianist Peng Peng. and Chloé and pushed the concept of freedoms fail to advance women’s cently that she sees too many job ap- artists and are the piano fac- her 30s and how her was less often by choice. mixing pricey brands with flea-mar- push for better jobs and salaries? plicants who arrive in overexposing New York $553 Œ351 enthralled ulty at Juil- mother spent the same Full-time mothers certainly ket finds; it also fostered pride in Of course, the complexities of clothes. To these young people, “I London £290 Œ364 with their playing,” says Joseph liard and artistic director of its years of her life. “The congregated with other feminine friendships and pursuits. sexism go well beyond how women think it’s freedom of expression— Polisi, president of the Juilliard Pre-College division, “the kids are Hong Kong HK$4,600 Œ374 whole girls-going- mothers and children. Work- The show promoted the idea that dress. But many women seem un- ‘Take me for what I am or it’s your much more disciplined and geared out-in-a-pack thing is to- ing women from a different School in New York. successful women could take a liber- aware that liberation comes from ac- loss,’ ” she said. She doesn’t hire Paris Œ380 Œ380 towards achievement from a very tally foreign to my era spent time together But the size and caliber of ated attitude toward fashion; they tual power, not the power to wear them: She says she doesn’t have time Brussels Œ391 Œ391 young age compared to the aver- mom,” said Elizabeth when pools of secretaries China’s talent pool has led some could dress like women at work in- bold clothes. to teach employees what to wear. “It age American or European child.” Frankfurt Œ400 Œ400 Gardner, 35, executive di- were common. But now that American music schools to go stead of looking like they were copy- After a recent column on sexy subliminally says that you’re not seri- She also theorizes that, because Tokyo ¥75,600 Œ464 rector of the New York coed workplaces are the further. The Juilliard Orchestra Hiroko Masuike of the subtleties required in read- ing men. But as the show’s fashion evening clothes at business events, I ous,” Ms. Goldston says. International Latino Film norm, the urge to visit with gives the first performance of its ing calligraphy, Asian children de- influence extended into the work- received an outpouring of email work. One California man com- So how do women strike the Size: 90 cm X 150 cm Festival. “When I first one’s girlfriends at night seven-concert tour in Beijing to- velop visual acuity to discern de- place, some people felt that such about smart, well-educated women plained in an email about his psy- right balance when it comes to Prices, including taxes, as provided by moved to the city, she takes on a new sense of ref- day, its first appearance in China daring looks—regularly baring bo- wearing the kind of clothing in- chologist’s bared cleavage during power dressing? A review of the pho- retailers in each city, averaged and since 1987. Last November, Juil- tails in musical scores at an early converted into euros. would say: ‘In my genera- uge, as well as opportunity. soms, midriffs and upper thighs— spired by “Sex and the City” to their sessions. tos in several “50 most powerful tion, we just did not go Ms. Gardner is also one liard signed an exchange agree- age. Those who speak so-called out to bars in packs. of five women tapped by en- ment with the eminent Shanghai “tonal languages” like Mandarin Most women met their trepreneur and buzz mar- Conservatory of Music. Chinese, where fluctuations in vo- husbands in college.’” keter Gabrielle Bernstein, In 2005, violin pedagogue Kurt cal pitch help determine meaning, Helen Gurley Brown 28, when she needed to get Sassmannshaus founded the Great may also benefit from this form of may have disagreed the word out about her cli- Wall International Music Academy ear training. Shades of green: Decoding eco fashion’s claims with the then-common ent Origine, a nightclub and in Beijing with the help of the Uni- The work ethic is evident at notion that women had party space under the SoHo versity of Cincinnati College-Con- the highly selective music middle restaurant FR.OG. Ms. Bern- schools affiliated with conservato- By Ray A. Smith to land a husband by servatory of Music, where he Bamboo Cruelty free wool Organic cotton graduation day, but in stein’s strategy was to ask heads the string department. ries in Shanghai and Beijing. Hu OR THOSE who want to look chic Yongyan, artistic director of the Who’s doing it: Linda Loudermilk, Who’s doing it: Fast-fashion Who’s doing it: her 1962 book, “Sex and her most connected girl- Some students chosen for the while saving the planet, there are EOS Orchestra at the Central Con- F Lara Miller, Bamboosa Loomstate, eco the Single Girl,” she friends to each host a din- academy’s four-week summer pro- more green fashion choices now than retailer H&M; designer servatory and music director des- from Levi Strauss, frowned on bars. If ner at FR.OG for 10, fol- gram ultimately apply to the Col- ever before. The trouble is, it is hard to The claim: Bamboo grows rapidly, brands Hugo Boss and ignate of the three-year-old with little water and no Perry Ellis Nike, Stella you’re in a bar, even lowed by a party for 30 to lege-Conservatory. Other music figure out which clothing really makes Corbis Qingdao Symphony, says children McCartney with another girl, men 100 people downstairs in schools send their admissions di- a difference. pesticides. It can be harvested The claim: People for the who win admittance to these will think you’re lonely. the nightclub. rectors on recruitment tours to Though many retailers sell clothes every three to four years, and it Ethical Treatment of The claim: Because a Mojo Makeover workshop for boarding schools practice six breaks down in landfills. Animals wants apparel it’s grown without “Therefore you must be distress the guests. Dana B. Myers For Ms. Bernstein, bringing leading Asian cities, including that claim to be green, there’s no one women together was a matter of hours a day and are groomed to Recycled materials The trade-off: It takes Fair trade/Helping makers to boycott merino pesticides, organic merchandise which can be had founded the Booty Parlor in 2004 Beijing and Shanghai. standard for Earth-friendliness. following in her mother’s foot- enter college-level conservatories. Who’s doing it: Bagir, wool produced in Australia cotton is more cheaply than other goods.” with her husband, Charlie. Since “One of the main reasons “There are standards for growing or- harsh chemicals and lots of developing countries steps. “My mom was hosting wom- Is there concern about a talent Patagonia, Timberland by sheep farmers who considered Girls’ night out has become a then, it has grown to include 200 American conservatories can at- ganic cotton or for parts of the process energy to turn stiff bamboo Who’s doing it: Edun, Fair en’s circles at my house. She’s a drain in China? Mr. Zhang and stalks into fibers that can be ward off flesh-eating preferable to the marketing concept—when two or Booticians at the ready in 42 tract our students,” says Zhang but not for the total garment,” says The claim: Use of recycled Indigo and Swati Argade connector. I was taught that creat- Mr. Polisi note that many of materials saves energy, woven into silky fabrics. “It’s flies by cutting out conventional kind. more women are out together, states and 15 full-time employees. Xianping, vice president of the Sass Brown, an assistant professor at The claim: Manufacturing ing a community for women was a those who study abroad return to reduces carbon-dioxide not a chemical-free fiber,” says patches of the animals’ The trade-off: Ms. Myers explains: “It’s a way Shanghai Conservatory of Music New York’s Fashion Institute of Tech- in Africa, India and Peru there’s money to be made off of big deal,” she said, recalling that teach or perform in their native emissions and keeps waste Peter Hauser, a professor of skin—a practice the Certified organic for women to come together and and a longtime faculty member, nology who specializes in sustainabil- helps workers in them. Just last week, Bloom- in the 1980s her mother went to country. But it will take another out of landfills. Bagir uses textile chemistry at North farmers have agreed to cotton is in short talk about sex and relationships “...is that they offer them more ity in fashion. developing economies. ingdale’s bought a full page in the “Take It or Break It” parties at the decade or so to build sufficient Carolina State University. stop by the end of 2010. supply, representing less and share with one another.” in scholarships than we do, not What are shoppers to do? Should recycled plastic bottles to home of a friend who was a pot- audiences in China to fill classical The trade-off: Remote than 1% of total production. just tuition but living expenses. they favor an apparel maker like Tim- make ECOGIR men’s suits; Bottom line: Though some The trade-off: Until In her view, “Sex and the City” ter. “You could take the pottery or music concerts on a regular basis. berland, which takes steps to reduce Patagonia does the same for environmentalists say bamboo production requires someone comes up with a To be certified organic, helped lay the groundwork for However, the most attractive ele- In the meantime, many Chinese long-distance shipping Pepper . . . and Salt break it, like a releasing ritual.” its carbon footprint, including using re- outdoor clothing. is preferable to better alternative, the cotton must grow in soil that her business. “Everybody is think- ment for our students is the op- musicians will find more lucrative and thus more CO2 THE WALL STREET JOURNAL The notion sounds almost cycled materials and planting trees? Timberland’s “Earthkeepers” synthetics and farmers say they must cut has been chemical free for ing about girls’ nights and bond- portunity to feel the atmo- jobs in their adopted lands. emissions, says F.I.T.’s three years, the U.S. quaint. Maybe there were some Or a company that produces goods lo- boots have soles made of 30% conventional the animals to treat a ing,” she said. “It’s not about be- sphere, to learn Western music Mr. Hu ponders the brain-drain Prof. Brown. Edun CEO Agriculture Department tears and laughter among the cally, so they don’t have to be shipped? recycled rubber and linings cotton, the use life-threatening condition. ing a feminist. Women are feeling in Western countries.” question. “On the one hand, if Christian Kemp-Griffin says. Dyes used to color the pots and the pottery shards—and Or an outfit like pop star Bono’s Edun made of 70% recycled of chemicals Bottom line: If this practice in control. Women are feeling While European capitals offer they go to a conservatory like Juil- says the company is fabric may contain toxic then the casseroles were wrapped that tries to ease poverty by making material. in bamboo bothers you, stay away quite free. And they want to talk more historical surroundings, liard, that’s a blessing,” says the trying to minimize substances, though. up, the children were collected, garments in Africa? The trade-off: Many compa- processing from merino wool for now. about it.” Of course, many women and everybody went home happy. American conservatories are conductor. “On the other hand, shipping during the Bottom line: Ask manufactur- Are fabrics made of organic cotton, nies don’t use 100% recycled isn’t very simply use these gatherings as an Women today have more op- noted for their expressive free- the People’s Republic of China manufacturing process. ers, or check their Web sites, bamboo or seaweed intrinsically bet- materials. Instead, they environmen- excuse to indulge, “to spend more tions available to them for letting dom. A U.S. education, says spends a lot of money to have a Bottom line: If you sell to to see if their cotton is ter than other materials? What about blend it with other materials tally friendly, time on yourself,” as the women’s off steam. They can mix up their 15-year-old pianist Peng Peng, young music student go from mid- a global market, it’s certified organic, what the rest of the manufacturing process— to make a garment softer or Dr. Hauser magazines often suggest. nail color on a mani-pedi combo who left a coveted spot at the dle school to senior high. By the impossible to work with portion of it is organic and everything from how the raw material enhance performance. says. The spirit of being in control or enjoy a $2,000 Pilates retreat Shanghai Conservatory’s music time the student is ready to be- local communities in what kind of dye was used. is processed to how it is dyed, treated Bottom line: Any use of Ericka Burchett/WSJ; Alamy and free and a little bit indulgent to Mexico with their girlfriends. primary school at the age of 10 come a young star at the college disadvantaged regions and sewn? The answers suggest that recycled materials is a is captured in a recent television But have we really come so far to study at the Juilliard Pre-Col- level in China, he or she may be a and also have a small even the most environmentally com- positive, requiring less advertisement for the Chrysler from breaking clay pots? lege, “leaves the right blanks for star at Juilliard instead.” mitted designers and manufacturers energy to process than carbon footprint, Ms. “If you want to see what I look Pacifica. In the ad, the camera students to express their own Brown says. at times must make trade-offs. natural fibers. like while I’m working, I have a pans over six women in a Pacifica. Ms. Catton is the cultural editor feelings in without hesitation.” Ms. Jepson writes about classi- few videos posted on YouTube.” They’re laughing and listening to of the New York Sun. Winner of a Piano Prodigy cal music for the Journal.

W4 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 W13 DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES &ESTATES v Art In Iceland, building bridges for art

URATOR Hans-Ulrich Obrist land has fantastic people, but wins tures. It’s really about the represen- and artist Olafur Eliasson have on the issue of landscape and such tation of space rather than depth in Cbeen discussing the nature of things. So I’ve been puzzled by the space. So there is not a strong tradi- collaboration andart formore than a struggle that people have in pinning tion of temporality there. decade. They met in the early 1990s down the actual heritage, as if au- and soon began visiting Iceland each thorship is about belonging to a I find that in Iceland there is a summer with a contingent of other place. There is no reason to underes- deep feeling of social intimacy and artists and thinkers to explore the timate the importance of having a at the same time the phenomenal history and a relationship which landscape and harsh climate can goes beyond the length of your own be distancing, so that in the end Backstage with life,andhavingfamilieswhetheryou you feel both things at once. are with them in the place where Mr. Obrist: I agree. I once had HANS-ULRICH OBRIST they are or not—this is what forms this amazing experience when we AND OLAFUR ELIASSON you and cultivates you and defines went to Eidar by car: I fell asleep for your opinions and so on. three hours, and when I woke up there was still the same glacier. landscape and share ideas, in the In fact, everybody here seems hope of spurring creativity. to know each other and even to be Olafur, the design of the Ser- Their latest project, part of the somehow related. pentine pavilion and much of your Reykjavik Arts Festival, is a more Mr. Eliasson: Well, the fact that work seems to be inspired by Ice- formal version of the gatherings. there is a size to the country that is land’s landscape. Called the Experiment Marathon Cathryn Drake comprehensible allows for thinking Mr.Eliasson: Yes, butIdon’t think Reykjavik, it brought together more Artist Olafur Eliasson and curator Hans-Ulrich Obrist; below, ‘Table Piece One’ about space in a different way. It has it’s fair to say that this is just about than 50 artists, architects, filmmak- being performed at the Experiment Marathon Reykjavik by (from left) Sebastian to dowiththatyoucan somewhat re- Icelandic nature. The formal lan- ers and academics to demonstrate Mekas, Jonas Mekas and Benn Northover. late to scale by a measure of tempo- guage in my work is very much in- the intersection between art and sci- rality.You would refer to the kiosk as spiredbynaturalphenomenarelated ence. Among the participants were being ten minutes away—in a bigger to Iceland and other Nordic coun- Tanzanian architect David Adjaye, Mr. Obrist: The visits became Mr. Obrist: I think it is also a country, like America, you always tries. But obviously the language British musician Brian Eno, Indian very regular after 1999, when I had a small-country syndrome. I come talk about the miles. doesn’t say anything by definition; it artist Abhishek Hazra and Lithua- visit from Jonni [Sigurjon Sighvats- from Switzerland, and when you Theotherthingisthatthehistory isverymuchaboutwhatyouthensay nian filmmaker Jonas Mekas. son, director of the Eidar Art Cen- come from a small country you prob- of Iceland has to do with the journey, with this language, which is not The two-day performance this tre]. He said he was doing this think ably travel more than when you which was always a question of aboutIceland,it’saboutotherissues. month took place at the Reykjavik tank in Iceland and wanted Olafur come from a big one. You are more time—it was never really a question So even though art history has a ten- Art Museum, where an accompany- and I to form the team and think inclined to venture into other cul- ofdistance.Thepotentialofthejour- dency to focus on the form rather ing exhibition is on display how one could organize a journey in tures, other geographies. ney lies in what it allows for in terms than the content, what you say must through Aug. 17. Iceland each summer. We thought it There is also a link to literature of understanding and the narrative stand in front of how you say it. The forum followed a similar could be interesting if it was more in Iceland. I have never been in a of the social world, which is where People who saw the pavilion in event last summer in London at the like an experimental conference country where there are so many storytelling comes from. London will know that it was about Serpentine Gallery, in a temporary where you invite artists. novelists and poets. At the same The great history of American temporality, about physicality, the pavilion inspired by Nordic land- Mr. Eliasson: We brought to- time there is this strong link to vi- landscape photography, which is so way that the body constituted spa- forms designed by Mr. Eliasson and gether a group of contemporary art sual art. So in terms of aiming at rich, is very much about iconic pic- tial questions. Norwegian artist Kjetil Thorsen. andfilm and culture thinkers, and we this idea of making bridges between Mr. Obrist is the director of interna- eventually just had a very long hang- disciplines we’ve been recording a tional projects at the gallery. out, playing football, eating, fishing, lot of interviews with novelists and The 40-year-old Mr. Obrist, who doing journeys and talking. But we poets and composers. is Swiss, has organized more than did artwork, and we showed each It is also one of the reasons that 150 exhibitions. He travels con- other the projects we were working Olafur and I wanted to bring the Ex- stantly, inviting artists to bring on. The time we spent on the road periment Marathon here to Iceland. their portfolios to his hotel lobbies was productive. So we’d journey It has to do with the fact that we and interviewing top artists from across the highlands, sometimes in both believe we must go beyond the cities around the world in an effort thecar, sometimeshiking, and some- fear of pooling knowledge, as [Hun- to take the pulse of the global con- times we had a little plane pick us up garian theorist] György Kepes al- temporary art scene. on natural airstrips. ways said. If you want to under- Mr. Eliasson, born in Copen- stand forces that are effective in vi- hagen in 1967 to Icelandic parents, Hans has talked about the idea sual arts, it is important to look at is known for installations, photo- that although you return home what happens in science, architec- graphs and sculptures that create from a place on the same road, you ture and literature. In Iceland that environments dealing with the per- see everything differently, not exchange seems to be a given more ception of light, nature and space. A only because your physical per- than in most other places. major retrospective of his work, spective has changed but also be- “Take Your Time,” is showing at the cause the narrative of the journey Olafur,you grew up in Denmark Museum of Modern Art and P.S.1 continues forward infinitely, no? and represented the country in the Contemporary Art Center in New Mr. Obrist: It goes along with the Venice Biennale, so do you really York. Among other projects, he is idea of intensely revisiting the same consider yourself Icelandic? now building four giant waterfalls places, which has become, at least in Mr. Eliasson: The truth is that I under the Brooklyn Bridge and my travels, an incredibly important was born in Denmark and primarily along the Brooklyn waterfront, a part. I mean, I’ve been to China 15 raised there by Icelandic parents, public art commission that will run times, to Iceland 15 times. To me but all my family were here [in Ice- June 26 through Oct. 13. that is more meaningful than going land], and I spent my summers, We spoke to the pair this month to hundreds of places only once. Christmas holidays and vacations at the Reykjavik Art Museum. here. I really treasure and enjoy both —Cathryn Drake You have said that Iceland as a countries. Denmark has no particu- place is part of the global dialogue lar landscapes, but there’s a great You two have a longstanding re- andyet verylocalat thesametime. amount of fantastic people. And Ice- lationship with Iceland and have traveled frequently here together. How did that begin? A New GlASS For eVerY dAY Hans-Ulrich Obrist: We met in the early 1990s when I invited clASSic riedel Bowl SHAPeS Olafur to [contemporary art bien- nial] Manifesta. That was the begin- STroNG, liGHT ANd BAlANced ning of our conversations about Ice- land, and then later we started to diSHwASHer SAFe come here almost every summer. SPArKliNG NoN-leAd crYSTAl Olafur Eliasson: Iceland became a trajectory that we could share. I SUrPriSiNGlY AFFordABle come here roughly once a month, be- ing Icelandic myself. I used to have a house here, but I sold it to stay more nomadic when I’m here. Which is how Hans and I developed this no- madic stage of actually traveling www.riedel.com through space rather than sitting in a space talking about it. © Karl Petersson

W14 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 W3 v 8-12 | Cover story Travel 5 | Food & Drink Art

A toast to Robert Mondavi Mr. Wirth says he is most excited Contents by the latest addition to his artists’ Top Picks: Goya’s engravings High-stakes selling at Art Basel stable, rising Indian star Subodh 3 | Art Greater Moscow Gupta. Mr. Gupta’s “Still Steal Steel Cultural treasures in the capital’s suburbs ASEL COMMANDS center all media: painting, sculpture, draw- time off on a beach with bikini-clad no. 4” (2008), from a series of dis- | Books stage in the contemporary-art ings, installations, photography, beauties in the foreground torted photorealist paintings of tra- Backstage with Olafur Eliasson 6, 7 Bworld next week when galler- prints, video and computer art. ($50,000); and Canadian Rodney ditional Indian cooking vessels, will ies and collectors converge on the The event has also drawn several Graham’s mesmerizing five-minute ‘Untitled,’ be priced in the range of Œ650,000. Swiss city for the Art Basel fair. satellite fairs into its orbit: Liste for film of a spinning chandelier 2000, by One area of the fair that

and Hans-Ulrich Obrist t A summer reading Some 300 galleries will exhibit young artists; Scope and The Volta ($400,000). Louise shouldn’t be missed is Art Unlim- list with a global theme works by more than 2,000 artists at Show for emerging galleries with “The stakes are high at Art Basel Bourgeois. ited, a huge hall within Art Basel fea- 4 | Fashion cutting-edge art; and PrintBasel for because it is the ultimate barometer © Hauser & Wirth Zürich London turing works that are too big or com- graphic editions. of the gallery market,” says Iwan be bringing. plicated for booths in the main area. 13 | Taste Collecting Neil Wenman, director of art Wirth of Hauser & Wirth of Zurich His roster of artists this year in- Among such works this year will be On Style: MARGARET STUDER fairs at London’s Lisson Gallery, and London. cludes California’s Paul McCarthy a captivating video by Swiss artist says that this year Lisson will bring Mr. Wirth says he expects this with his grotesque-comic objects, Pipilotti Rist: an ethereal red- Too sexy for Girls just wanna have fun to Basel such contrasting works as year’s fair to attract an especially in- French-born American Louise Bour- headed woman’s journey out of para- the world’s leading 20th- and 21st- “Intermission” (2008) by Puerto ternational set of visitors, noting geois’s feminist pieces and Ameri- dise through a long graffiti-ridden the office? t century-art fair. Art Basel includes Rico-based duo Jennifer Allora & that his gallery has had an unusually can installation artist Dan Graham tunnel. Projected onto the ceiling, it 15 | Art artists ranging from globally known Guillermo Calzadilla, a study of high number of inquiries from Rus- with his cool, mirrored architec- is best viewed while lying on the Decoding stars to up-and-comers working in American combat soldiers taking sians and Asians about what it will tural constructions. floor. eco fashion claims Collecting: t Art Basel DISTINCTIVE PROPERTIES &ESTATES The price thinks big of an 16 | Time Off SOUTH WEST FRANCE Hermès Our arts and culture calendar STUNNING LOCATION beach towel t Ensemble of 2 attractive, renovated stone houses, salt water swimming pool, 39 acres. Panoramic views. On cover, the New Jerusalem Monastery’s Resurrection Cathedral near Moscow. LS207 830 000 Euros Above, Assumption Cathedral at the Holy Trinity-St. Sergius Monastery. (Photos: ITAR-TASS) WSJ.com tel: 00 33 553 95 97 28 www.lafitescholfield.com Short escapes Walking billboards A wine’s identity Elizabeth Blackshire Editor The best places in Asia Maria Sharapova’s Tiffany Finding melons and Craig Winneker Deputy editor Hamakua Coast, Big Island, Hawaii for a mini-break from earrings, and other sports minerals—or acetate— Carlos Tovar Art director 4.8 acres. 10 miles N. Hilo. Ocean Front. Fresh Fahire Kurt Weekend art director trade winds. Scenic views. Water, power, paved roads. $450,000. Other properties avail. HI, VA, a mega-city. stars’ accessories. in American Pinot Gris. Matthew Kaminski Taste page editor > WSJ.com/Asia > WSJ.com/WeekendJournal > WSJ.com/WeekendJournal Chile, TX. www.cplandco.com Questions or comments? Write to [email protected] Contact Mary Welborn [email protected] or (850)278-1000

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W2 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL WEEKEND JOURNAL | FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 W15 FRIDAY-SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008

Wooden monkey, 1951-53, toy design by Kay Bojesen, on show in Copenhagen.

Amsterdam London festival science “Holland Festival 2008” presents 35 “Dan Dare and the Birth of Hi-Tech productions of dance, literature, visual Britain” explores the role of technol- arts, theater, film, opera and music on ogy in shaping postwar Britain the theme of “Heaven and Earth.” through the science-fiction comic hero Greater Until June 22 Dan Dare. % 31-20-788-2100 Until Oct. 25, 2009 www.hollandfestival.nl % 44-870-8704-868 www.sciencemuseum.org.uk

Antwerp music history “Spitalfields Festival 2008” in London’s “Antwerp=America=Red Star Line—The East End features musical perfor- Tale of a People” looks at the history mances by Gabrieli Consort & Players, Moscow of the Red Star cruise line, which the Silk String Quartet and the Royal brought more than two million Euro- Academy of Music Sinfonia with pean emigrants to the U.S. between Stephen Hough. 1873 and 1934. Spitalfields Festival National Maritime Museum From June 2 to 20 Cultural treasures Until Dec. 28 % 44-20-7377-0287 % 32-3-201-9340 www.spitalfieldsfestival.org.uk in the capital’s museum.antwerpen.be/scheepvaart museum theater “Dickens Unplugged,” written and di- suburbs Barcelona rected by Adam Long, is a musical art comedy based on the life and works of Charles Dickens. “Lothar Baumgarten: autofocus retina” Comedy Theatre shows sculptures, wall drawings, Bookings until Sept. 22 books and films by the contemporary % 44-870-0606-637 German artist (born 1944). www.theambassadors.com/comedy MACBA-Museu d’Art Contemporani Barcelona Until June 15 Munich % 34-93-4120-810 music “Richard-Strauss-Days 2008” cele- www.macba.es brates the music of Richard Strauss in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, featuring the Berlin Bavarian Radio Symphony Orchestra; photography the Concert Orchestra Berlin; and the “Gazes and Desire—The Photographer Chamber Orchestra Munich. Herbert Tobias (1924-1982)” exhibits Richard-Strauss-Tage the 1950s and ’60s fashion work of Garmisch-Partenkirchen the German photographer alongside Until June 6 his portraits, cityscapes and erotic im- % 49-8821-9668-480 ages of men. www.strauss-tage.de Berlinische Galerie— Landesmuseum für Moderne Paris Kunst, Fotografie und Architektur photography Until Aug. 25 “Actors in Scene, Glances by Photogra- % 49-30-7890-2600 phers” traces the evolution of stage www.berlinischegalerie.de photography since the 1850s. Bibliothèque Nationale de art France—site Richelieu “Ernst Ludwig Kirchner—Master Until Aug. 24 sheets—Drawings from the Brücke-Mu- % 33-1-5379-5959 seum Berlin” shows 100 works of the www.bnf.fr German expressionist artist. Brücke-Museum art Brücke-Museum Berlin © Dr. Wolfgang Henze, Ingeborg Henze Ketterer Until Aug. 31 “ ‘Monumenta 2008’ Richard Serra— % 49-30-8312-029 ‘Man and Female Nude (Self-Portrait with Model),’ 1915, by Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, in Berlin. Promenade” features a new work for www.bruecke-museum.de the monumental nave of the Grand Palais: Mr. Serra’s sculptural installa- tion, “Promenade.” photography Danish Design Centre Until July 27 Until Jan. 11 Galeries Nationales du Grand Until Sept. 7 % 49-351-4914-2000 % 39-055-2388-709 “ ‘Man and Car’—Photography by Brig- Palais % 45-3369-3369 www.skd-dresden.de itte Kraemer” shows 40 black-and- www.polomuseale.firenze.it Until June 15 white and color photographs examin- www.ddc.dk % 33-1-4413-1717 ing the relationship between men and Dublin Frankfurt www.grandpalais.fr their cars. art art art Deutsches Technik Museum “Romantic Encounters: Constable and “Cut-Outs and Cut-Ups: Hans Christian “Fire and Spirit—Icons from the Trea- Vienna Until Nov. 2 the School of Eckersberg” exhibits five Andersen and William Seward Bur- sury of the Bulgarian Patriarchy” art % 49-30-9025-40 paintings by the English landscape roughs” shows 124 cut-out and cut-up shows 69 large-format icons, church “Paul Klee—The Play of Forms” shows www.dtmb.de painter John Constable (1776-1837), images and stencils by writers Hans objects and tapestries. 150 works by Swiss painter Paul Klee juxtaposing them with 16 landscape Christian Andersen (1805-1875) and Ikonen-Museum (1879-1940) in a retrospective. paintings from the Glyptotek’s Danish William Seward Burroughs Brussels Until June 15 Albertina Golden Age collection. (1914-1997). art & antique fair % 49-69-2123-6262 Until Aug. 10 “Brussels Oriental Art Fair 2008” fea- Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Irish Museum of Modern Art % 43-1-5348-30 www.ikonen-museum.frankfurt.de tures more than 30 exhibitors. Until June 22 Until June 29 www.albertina.at Brussels Oriental Art Fair % 45-3341-8141 % 353-1-6129-900 From June 4 to 8 www.glyptoteket.dk www.imma.ie Liverpool Source: ArtBase Global Arts News Service, WSJE research. % 32-2-344-4171 art www.boafair.be Dresden Florence “Gustav Klimt: Painting, Design and art science Modern Life in Vienna 1900” illus- WSJ.com Copenhagen “Canaletto: Views of the Canal Grande “The Medici and the Sciences—Instru- trates the artist’s role as the founder What’s on in Venice” shows veduta paintings of ments and Machines in the Grand Du- and leader of the Viennese Secession. design WSJ.com subscribers can see an Venice by Canaletto (1697-1768), in- Tate Gallery Liverpool “Living Wood” traces the 20th-century cal Collections” shows scientific instru- expanded version of the European cluding two recently restored works. Until Aug. 31 evolution of the Danish wood and fur- ments, such as sundials and propor- arts-and-culture calendar at tional compasses. % 44-151-7027-400 niture industry, covering toys to win- Gemäldegalerie Alte WSJ.com/Europe dows to luxury wood furniture. Meister—Zwinger Museo degli Argenti—Palazzo Pitti www.tate.org.uk Artistic journeys in Iceland Summer book roundup W16 FRIDAY - SUNDAY, MAY 30 - JUNE 1, 2008 | WEEKEND JOURNAL