THE www.perfumesociety.org

NO.scented 45 CHRISTMAS 2020 LETTER

WHAT MAKES THE TREND A BESTSELLING + FOR EXQUISITE SMELL? EXTRAITS

+20 PAGES OF FRAGRANT GIFTS Secret Scent-er

editor’s LETTER

This has surely been the strangest year that any of us has lived through. But as we count down to New Year’s Eve (or more likely, New Year’s Day, with its clean sheet of paper), we think it’s time to celebrate the joys of fragrance and have some fun.

In this editiion, we of course bring you our annual scented gift extravaganza. We are anticipating that fragrance gifts will be hugely popular for 2020, and you can read our picks from p.27. We have surely all been been reminded, in this surreal year, of the real power of perfume. It has wrapped us in its arms and comforted us. It has picked us up and lifted our mood. And it has given us a welcome sense of glamour, in a year during which we sometimes didn’t get out of our PJs for days on end.

Have you started boogie-ing around the kitchen to Wham yet? I only know it’s all really happening when I first hear ‘Last Christmas’ or Band Aid’s chorus. But there are parallel, perennial Christmas Number Ones in the fragrance world, too. On p.48 in ‘Jingle Smells’, Viola Levy explores those scents which top the bestseller – or best-smeller – charts, year after year. And others, which simply are Christmas in a bottle.

Poignantly, many of us won’t be able to spend Christmas with those we love. And it’s always a bittersweet time of year, as we remember people we’ve lost. One of perfume’s magic tricks is to be able to conjure up absent friends and family through scent. So for ‘Spraying Home for Christmas’, p.13, we reached out to the perfume community to ask who they’ll be missing, this festive season – and which scents will conjure up their presence.

As you’d expect, we like to be ‘on it’ with fragrance trends, at The Perfume Society. Something we’ve been seeing lately is a revival of a particular concentration, the extrait, or pure parfum. These aren’t necessasrily room-rockers, but instead can offer a more intense and intimate scent experience, for the wearer... and whoever manages to get within nuzzling distance. Dariush Alavi has some fascinating insights into this renaissance, in ‘Extraits, Extraits, Read All About It.’ And you can do just that on p.18.

Finally, we share with you Santa’s own Memories, Dreams, Reflections. Intrepid Senior Writer Suzy Nightingale managed to get a Zoom call in with the white-whiskered Christmas whizz just before it all kicked off in the grotto, and you can read about his life in scents – right back to his childhood in Turkey – on p.46. (I learned a lot about Santa’s roots, reading Suzy’s piece.)

And I’d just like take this opportunity on behalf of the whole wonderful team at The Perfume Society to wish you a healthy, Happy Christmas – and (fingers crossed) a much, much better 2021…

www.perfumesociety.org The Perfume Society @Perfume_Society ThePerfumeSociety

THE scented LETTER 3 CONTRIBUTORS

scentedTHE LETTER

Pratap Chahal Georgia Wellard Having graduated with a BA in English Georgia joined us just weeks before Literature, Pratap decided to follow his lockdown and thus far, is still dreaming EDITOR true passion and train to be a chef. He of attending glamorous fragrance Josephine Fairley was put through is paces in the launches. A former make-up artist with [email protected] kitchens of Gordon Ramsay Claridge’s, Charlotte Tilbury, Georgia had just Chez Bruce, Cinnamon Club, The returned from a long stay in Australia DESIGNER Jenny Semple Orrery and Galvin. Soon after marrying when she landed in our midst, and has enquiries@jenny his wife Nikhat, they decided to do since made herself utterly invaluable as sempledesign.co.uk something together and hit on the our researcher and EA, despite having idea of starting a personalised/ to work from home. In this edition, she ADVERTISING bespoke catering service and (when helped with the epic task of compiling MANAGER Lorna McKay permitted) dining club, offering our annual gift guide. Follow her on [email protected] spectacularly fragrant food. Insta both @georgiawellard_ and Follow them @thathungrychef @gwmakeupartistry SENIOR WRITER Suzy Nightingale [email protected]

MARKETING/BRAND RELATIONSHIPS Victoria Evans [email protected]

BUYING/EVENTS & SOCIAL MEDIA Hettie Jones [email protected]

EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Georgia Wellard [email protected] Jo Fairley Suzy Nightingale Jo is Editor both of this magazine and Suzy contributes on an almost daily CONTRIBUTING EDITOR perfumesociety.org, ventures she basis to our site and frequently hosts Maggie Alderson co-founded after Green & Black’s and our Instagram/YouTube unboxing beautybible.com (a beauty website sessions. From treasured childhood CONTACT US born out of a series of bestselling memories of scent shopping trips with [email protected] c/o 106 High Street books co-authored with Sarah Stacey). her mother, Suzy progressed to Hastings Fascinated from toddlerhood with full-time fragrance fanatic, trading in East Sussex TN34 3ES scents, and a multi-award-winning her fashion job to become a freelance 07748-653288 fragrance writer, this year she writer and acting as consultant became the first overseas journalist fragrance expert for national The Scented Letter is a to receive the US’s coveted Perfumed newspapers, as well as contributing to free online/downloadable Plume Award for her article ‘Venice’s 2019’s The Essence: Discovering The magazine for subscribers to The Perfume Society Perfumed Past’ in last Christmas’s The World of Scent, Perfume & Fragrance Scented Letter. Follow her @jofairley (Gestalten). Follow her @fragrantmaven

The Scented Letter is produced for The Perfume Society by Perfume Discovery Ltd. All information and prices are correct at the time of going to press and may no longer be so on the date of publication. © 2020 The Perfume Society. All text, graphics and illustrations in The Scented Letter are protected by UK and International Copyright Laws, and may not be copied, reprinted, published, translated, hosted or otherwise distributed by any means without explicit permission.

4 THE scented LETTER contents

6 13 a whiff of news to abscent friends NOSING SPRAYING HOME AROUND FOR CHRISTMAS 19

Alongside intel from scent’s front line, This Christmas, even if we can’t be LETTER scented

discover some of the season’s most with those we love, we can conjure THE fabulous limited edition flacons them up with a spritz or a dab

THE MOST INTENSE SCENTS STOCKING FILLERS 2020’s been all about small pleasures.

EXTRAITS, Here are some of our festive fragrant faves BEST-SMELLERS

Floris Edwardian Bouquet Luxury Soaps £23 for 3 EXTRAITS, florislondon.com

FORGIVE ME FOR THE PUN, but as I type these words,

everything feels quite concentrated. I don’t need to spell when (Especially gift.’ Christmas perfect

signature panther motif, it makes the the makes it motif, panther signature

out the reasons, and I don’t wish to let a single cloud Cartier’s to link a and bottle gold a with

is Cartier La Panthère. A heady Chypre, Chypre, heady A Panthère. La Cartier is Molton Brown Juniper Philosophy Cozy by appear in what is meant to be a piece glowing with festive boxes the all ticks that that introduction Jazz Bath & Shower Gel the Fire Shower Gel

optimism. But because of the forces that have shaped recent more Another too. year, every French opulence that many others enjoy enjoy others many that opulence French £24 for 300ml £15 for 480ml

this strangest of years, we seem to have reached a place chic, a bring aldehydes sparkling and moltonbrown.co.uk next.co.uk Heathcote & Ivory The Artist’s Journey Travel Collection

READ ALL flowers white – First Arpels & Cleef

where things count more than they used to. Every meet- Van of glamour retro the be would £14 heathcote-ivory.com

says. ‘My Christmas Number One scent scent One Number Christmas ‘My says.

up with a friend is intense. Every journey away from home she popular,’ always are gourmands This is definitely true for Sarah Sarah for true definitely is This

is memorable. Every purchase is weighed and considered rich and accords powdery vintage

time of year, so big well-known florals, florals, well-known big so year, of time

and pondered. this at needed is what is ‘Glamour

distributor Kenneth Green Associates. Associates. Green Kenneth distributor

In other words, what used to be ordinary seems to have fragrance for Training of Head Binns,

taken on a sheen of extra ‘specialness’. And perhaps that’s Christmas. for home driving

ABOUT IT! he’s when Rea Chris of enthusiasm and Diptyque Do Son Perfumed

why we’re all far more aware than we ever used to be of its aside leaving it, face let’s And bottle. the of out it come December, with all the gusto gusto the all with December, come Bracelet with Three Charms powering aldehydes of overdose its with itself, juice The

the approach of the gift-giving season. The problem of

£75 diptyqueparis.com name. lyrical a of place in numeral, intriguing An aesthetic.

Indeed, when you look at a scent like No5 – described described – No5 like scent a at look you when Indeed, As we dress up for the festive streamlined its in timeless utterly bottle’, ‘that There’s

finding just the right present for our nearest and dearest Acqua di Parma Hair Mist Collection £45 for 3 x 7ml sellers, year after year, almost a century after it debuted. debuted. it after century a almost year, after year sellers,

somehow feels more acute at the moment. What do you acquadiparma.com top of list the in featuring classic, Christmas a became it

season – albeit, perhaps, with why unpick to hard not it’s passes’, time as intriguing more give someone in a year when you want every last drop ‘becomes which fragrance a as Chanel of house the by of your affections to be distilled into the gorgeously-

no place but home to go – table.’ dressing a on fabulous looking of bonus

wrapped parcel under the tree? the have and – either style, of out go never Mademoiselle Not surprisingly, Dior and Chanel also invariably feature feature invariably also Chanel and Dior surprisingly, Not

life. Classics like Chanel No5 or its “younger sister” Coco Coco sister” “younger its or No5 Chanel like MalinClassics life. + Goetz Leather Perfume Oil

Enter: the extrait, arguably the most precious form your in man any for gift great a and overpowering too not £40 for 9ml malinandgoetz.co.uk

PERSOLAISE explores the fresh, clean, ‘It’s Savage. Miranda says Christmas,’ at than of perfume available. For many years, this particular so more never and customers our among choice popular

timely revival of perfume’s category of fragrances hasn’t registered very strongly on a always is Sauvage ‘Dior wishlists. people’s on high our collective scented radar. However, things appear to brooch.) or bracelet actual the afford can’t you most precious form be changing, and more brands are releasing their wares Soapsmith Columbia Road Soap £10 soapsmith.com Benamôr Hand Cream Gift Set as extraits, perhaps in response to a perceived craving for €21 benamor1925.com that extra measure of luxury. Somewhat ironically, this format (which is also referred Yardley Luxury

£6 to as ‘parfum’, ‘extract’, or inaccurately, ‘pure perfume’) Soap Collection

yardleylondon.co.uk has been around since the birth of modern perfumery. Think of any of the grand fragrances from around 70 ” to 100 years ago – the old Chanels, the Carons, the Guerlains – and you can be pretty sure that they were originally sold in extrait and an eau de toilette format.

Usually, both versions would have stemmed from the booming, is scene fragrance niche the while Indeed, TIP

same formula, but the former would have contained a Don’t forget to

own parents, around party season – which we return to to return we which – season party around parents, own significantly higher proportion of the actual perfume our by worn perhaps – names household traditional it’s tuck a tangerine

concentrate in alcohol (perhaps around 20%), while the morning. Christmas of chatter in everyone’s Alone’ on TV providing background noise to the clatter and and clatter the to noise background providing TV on Alone’

eau de toilette would have been markedly more dilute familiar in the same way as eggnog, Bucks Fizz and having ‘Home ‘Home having and Fizz Bucks eggnog, as way same the in

(hovering around the 5% mark). spot the hits that bouquet woody-floral classic unmistakably “ stocking.

all the Christmas boxes for me. It has a jazzy, sweet yet yet sweet jazzy, a has It me. for boxes Christmas the all The choice of which to wear boiled down to the effect ticks Muse Modern scents, newer relatively their of One Christmas

December, inhaling that frenetic, fragrant and festive air). air). festive and fragrant frenetic, that inhaling December, morning isn’t

that the wearer sought to create. As Thierry Wasser, in- What do you in givestores someonedepartment London of me inremind a yearinstantly when you want

house perfumer at Guerlain and current guardian of the Goddess Bronze and Pleasures Dew, Youth (whose Lauder

side and resort to the classic fragrance houses like Estée Estée like houses fragrance classic the to resort and side Tocca Perfect Pair Christmas

legendary Mitsouko, Shalimar and L’Heure Bleue explains, one to those push I everyyear, of time this last Around dropscents. of your affections to be distilled (various fragrances) whose job it is to sniff out niche, experimental and unusual unusual and experimental niche, out sniff to is it job whose Buly Scented Matches without that ‘extraits are more personal, they’re much closer to you. £19 jarrold.co.uk into the gorgeously-wrapped parcel under the tree? €12.50 buly1803.com zesty moment…

Wearing them is a different experience.’ PICTURE LIBRARY EVANS MARY WRIGHT, OF DAVID © ESTATE “

, Les Senteurs Les , CRAVEN JAMES

46 THE scented LETTER THE scented LETTER 31

” 26 THE scented LETTER THE scented LETTER 27 security of being being of security sure of something something of sure

comfort and all the the all and comfort During the festive festive the During

18 want people season, 27 the most intense scents It’s a cracker EXTRAITS, EXTRAITS, YOUR FRAGRANT

READ ALL ABOUT IT GIFT GUIDE 2020

This definitely rings true for me, albeit as someone someone as albeit me, for true rings definitely This

something we know, that will remind us of a better past…’ past…’ better a of us remind will that know, we something

with whoever is is whoever with

oddities going on at the moment without that!) No, give us us give No, that!) without moment the at on going oddities

James Craven, fragrance archivist and expert at at expert and archivist fragrance Craven, James

“experimental”(especially this year – there are enough enough are there – year this “experimental”(especially

familiar. They don’t always want to try something new and and new something try to want always don’t They familiar.

comfort and all the security of being sure of something something of sure being of security the all and comfort

the festive season, people want nostalgia; they want want they nostalgia; want people season, festive the

there would be raised eyebrows eyebrows raised be would there Belgravia scent mecca Les Senteurs, agrees. ‘During ‘During agrees. Senteurs, Les mecca scent Belgravia

year after year.’ after year

As we dress up for the festive season, We sniff out the best presents for popularity their anycementing in helps certainly which appeal,

and perfumes that have perfectly nailed that universal universal that nailed perfectly have that perfumes and

with it for good. And there are certain fragrance houses houses fragrance certain are there And good. for it with

when you sought out your signature fragrance and stuck stuck and fragrance signature your out sought you when

be the only one they’ve ever worn, dating back to an era era an to back dating worn, ever they’ve one only the be

What keeps us rewinding and re- and rewinding us keeps What

have a signature scent they’ve worn for years. It may even even may It years. for worn they’ve scent signature a have

“wardrobe” featuring multiple perfumes, some customers customers some perfumes, multiple featuring “wardrobe”

nostalgia,’ she says. ‘And although it’s modern to have a a have to modern it’s although ‘And says. she nostalgia,’

‘There is of course an element of of element an course of is ‘There

playing these fragrant festive hits? hits? festive fragrant these playing

its audience.’ its

fragrance with a wide-ranging appeal to to appeal wide-ranging a with fragrance

that very reason. (‘I can’t take ‘Santa Baby’ Baby’ ‘Santa take can’t (‘I reason. very that

masculine notes that create a warm, rich rich warm, a create that notes masculine

up and staging a one-woman-protest for for one-woman-protest a staging and up

Persolaise explores the timely revival perfume-lover, from classic, feature they versatility; their glamorous gift

workplace. I recall one office Grinch standing standing Grinch office one recall I workplace.

like this are so popular because of of because popular so are this like

in the run-up to December – particularly in the the in particularly – December to run-up the in

remains a bestseller today. Scents Scents today. bestseller a remains

when Christmas tunes are played on the radio radio the on played are tunes Christmas when But is there a magic formula that that formula magic a there is But

been around for over 20 years and and years 20 over for around been

ORMALLY ORMALLY

the matter. ‘BOSS Bottled, for instance, instance, for Bottled, ‘BOSS matter. the

Miranda Savage, sheds some light on on light some sheds Savage, Miranda

Senior Buyer at The Perfume Shop, Shop, Perfume The at Buyer Senior

makes a scent a ‘Christmas classic?’ classic?’ ‘Christmas a scent a makes

unwrapping them around the tree. the around them unwrapping

well down go to

safe classics, more or less guaranteed guaranteed less or more classics, safe

And when it comes to fragrance, many have that same same that have many fragrance, to comes it when And

and Hugo Boss Bottled, these are fail- are these Bottled, Boss Hugo and

Chanel No5, Paco Rabanne 1 Million Million 1 Rabanne Paco No5, Chanel

of perfume’s most precious form setsto Kenzo by Flower From appeal. to beautiful (scented) baubles

Know It’s Christmas’, in terms of their nostalgic Christmas Christmas nostalgic their of terms in Christmas’, It’s Know

effect – the olfactory equivalent of Band Aid’s ‘Do They They ‘Do Aid’s Band of equivalent olfactory the – effect

ourselves. ourselves.

cosy Christmas Number Ones make us smile in spite of of spite in smile us make Ones Number Christmas cosy

opportunity. Because as much as we hate to admit it, those those it, admit to hate we as much as Because opportunity.

forgiven for blasting out Eartha Kitt and Co. at the earliest earliest the at Co. and Kitt Eartha out blasting for forgiven

to grab any crumb of joy we possibly can, people will be be will people can, possibly we joy of crumb any grab to in November!!’) But, with the global pandemic forcing us us forcing pandemic global the with But, November!!’) in N

46 48

an aromatic life best-smellers appeal, unique their them gives what at looks MEMORIES, DREAMS, JINGLE

REFLECTIONS SMELLS VIOLA LEVY VIOLA Suzy Nightingale hops on a Zoom Like our favourite Christmas songs, with Santa, who shares centuries of explains Viola Levy, certain fragrances

fragrant recollections never fail to deliver festive cheer

festive cheer. cheer. festive

why we keep going back to them – and shares some of her own favourites own her of some shares and – them to back going keep we why

Like our favourite Christmas songs, certain fragrances never fail to deliver deliver to fail never fragrances certain songs, Christmas favourite our Like Jingle smells regularsJingle EDITOR’S LETTER 3 CONTRIBUTORS 4 LATEST LAUNCHES 52 IT TAKES ME RIGHT BACK 62

THE scented LETTER 5 ON THE SCENT OF NEWS nosing around Everything from home scent schooling to flickeringly fabulous ways to scent your home this Christmas

SOMETIMES, MORE IS MORE Glamorous clutch-bag designer Judith Leiber makes fragrance instantly customisable with More is MORE: three perfumes housed in one extraordinary bottle. Sliding the switches at the top allows corresponding fragrances by Jerome Di Marino – Gourmand, Zest and Floral – to be sprayed separately, or together in seven possible combinations. We could spray and play all day. £95 for 75ml eau de parfum judithleibermoreismore.com

WELCOME TO LOUBIWORLD

Capping a crazy year – quite literally – Christian On the wall… Louboutin has launched this decadent, smile- A new and beautiful way to scent your spaces: Diptyque Electric making line-up of Wall Diffuser plugs into an lacquired red flacons electrical socket, pumping your designed by his friend fave from nine iconic Diptyque Hélène Tran. The juices home fragrances, from Baies to inside, which are all Ambre via Figuier, Mimosa and exclusive to Harrods, are Orange Blossom. About as far equally joyous: a complete from Airwick wardrobe of creations as you can by Daphné Bugey, Marie imagine… Salamagne, Christophe £90 each Raynaud and Nicolas (inserts £30) diptyque Beaulieu. Abracadabra, paris.com hey, presto! We’re in love. £225 each harrods.com

6 THE scented LETTER + Luxe layering

H IS FOR HEAVENLY Have we moved on to singing ‘We Wish You A Merry Christmas’ while hand-washing, from ‘Happy Birthday’, for now? Whatever: this refillable, hand-blown Cologne Hand Wash from Lyn Harris’s Perfumer H collection elevates a chore to an olfactory treat, with its notes of bergamot, bigarade, petitgrain, galbanum, green mint and vetiver. £350 for 500ml hand-blown bottle/£35 for 500ml refill perfumerh.com

Bodycare doesn’t get any more indulgent than The House of Creed’s new layering ritual: soap, body lotion, perfumed oil and shower gel, infused with bestselling Aventus For Her. So elegant, you may need to redecorate the bathroom around them. From £36 (soap) to £100 for 75ml Perfumed Oil creedfragrances.co.uk

SCENTS OF PLACE Traverse the entire country without leaving home via perfumer Ruth Mastenbroek’s debut candles – inspired by her deep love for the British Isles. Ancient Frankincense evokes smouldering bonfires and the comfort of the hearth, while Rebel County celebrates Ireland’s last stronghold against the Vikings with roiling waves of citrus and driftwood. Rolling Shires, meanwhile, conjures verdant countryside, hedgerows bursting with berries and shady woodlands. Flickering moments of scented bliss… BOUGIE ON DOWN £55 each for 220g ruthmastenbroek.com Riffing on slang for ‘those with flamboyant tastes’ as well as the French for ‘candle’, Boujee Bougies showcase perfumer Pia Long’s skills in Cuir Culture (leather-bound books and spice), Succulent (ultra-green cactus and tomato leaf), Queen Jam (raspberry and bilberry conserve with roses), Hellfire (magnolia blooms and brimstone) and Gilt (ancient resins veiled in gold). And the intro offer means if you add all to your basket, you get one free! Mini Scented Candles £25 for 60g boujeebougies.com

THE scented LETTER 7 ON THE SCENT OF NEWS

THE FRAGRANT BOOKSHELF Since this is the time to snuggle up with a good book, here are our scented suggestions for that ‘Dear Santa’ list…

DIOR IN BLOOM Swoonworthy flowers captured by Nick Knight sit alongside Dior history and insights into the most iconic perfumes of the house, including François Demachy’s Smell and learn Maison Christian Dior collection. Fragrance fans and budding EXPERIMENTAL PERFUME £90 (Flammarion) perfumers rejoice: sniffing and CLUB, meanwhile, are offering mixing sessions can now take a ‘luxury educational perfume place on your your sofa… collector’s piece’ comprising fifty top-quality perfumery materials, FLORAL STREET’S scentschool™ a deck of ingredient cards (to classes are now available online. train your nose), a fragrance When you buy their special wheel and their comprehensive discovery set – containing 160-page perfumer’s eight fragrances, blotters and handbook – combining the scented ‘touch and smell’ cards, skill and knowledge of a team you receive a code to book of professional perfumers, your complimentary live class, including EPC’s founder, FREDERIC MALLE BOOK plus a discount on your next Emmanuelle Moeglin. The closest Marking two astonishing, game- purchase. There’s even the option you can get to attending an changing decades, dive into Éditions to add a voucher for a 10, 50 actual perfumery school without de Parfums Frédéric Malle: The First or 100ml fragrance. swinging a satchel. Twenty Years – a sensorial journey Floral Street scentschool™ Experimental Perfume Club that surely belongs in every perfume- in a Box from £24 Perfumer’s Atelier £450 lover’s library. floralstreet.com experimentalperfumeclub.com £70 (Rizzoli) fredericmalle.co.uk

ZA-ZA’S SCENT-SATIONAL SUPER POWER Sparking discovery, creativity, and confidence, a charming and thrillingly Your very own fact-filled story by Alexis Wintrob to perfumer’s organ, delight children aged 3-8 which we’re sure from Experimental will encourage new perfume protégés. Perfume Club £7.68 amazon.com

8 THE scented LETTER Lalique Soleil Hair Mist £42 for 50ml + lalique.com

LET’S MIST AGAIN… There are no parties. We’re told to socially distance. So buying the usual hopeful sprig of mistletoe seems utterly pointless. However, spritzing on a hair mist is one of the best ways to enjoy fragrance yourself, every time you shake your head or push aside your fringe. Here are our three favourite new mist opportunities…

Chanel No5 The Hair Mist £48 for 35ml chanel.com KAYALI Déja Vu White Flower Hair Mist £34 for 75ml cultbeauty.com Big is beautiful

It certainly is when it comes to Acqua di Parma’s three-wick Luce di Colonia Candle: 500g in hand-painted Tuscan glass – and a limited edition of just 200 units. The perfect, uplifting candle to lift you out of the familiar doldrums between Christmas Day and New Year. £140 for 500g harrods.com

SUPERCHARGE YOUR SHOWER

If you’re one of the many who’ve now tried the entire Escentric Molecules line-up via their bestselling discovery sets on our perfumesociety.org website, good news: all five fragrances are available as super-luxe, shareable shower gels. Free from parabens and sulfates – but with a high percentage of fragrance in every squeezable bottle. £20 for 200ml escentric.com

THE scented LETTER 9 ON THE SCENT OF NEWS

3

2

4

1

9 Catch ‘em 5 while you can

This is the season for collectors’ editions of favourite fragrances in special flacons. These beauties will make a splash on any dressing table

8

6

7

1 Guerlain Mitsouko 100th Anniversary Edition £580 for 75ml guerlain.com 2 Acqua di Parma Colonia Special Edition (300 numbered bottles)

£400 for 180ml acquadiparma.com 3 Atelier Cologne Limited Edition Love Osmanthus £95 for 100ml Cologne absolue selfridges.com

4 Guerlain + Harrods Royal Extract II Parfum £450 for 125ml harrods.com 5 Gaultier Le Male Collector’s Snow Globe £71 for 125ml eau de toilette

debenhams.com 6 Lancôme La Vie Est Belle Limited Edition ‘The Crystal Smile’ £76.50 for 50ml eau de parfum lancome.co.uk

7 BYREDO LIl Fleur Holiday Collection limited edition eaux de parfums with bright caps and sleeves/£170 each byredo.com 8 Montblanc EXPLORER

£106 for 200ml eau de parfum harveynichols.com 9 Gaultier Classique Xmas Collector Snow Globe £89 for 100ml eau de toilette debenhams.com

10 THE scented LETTER

BOTANY ARTISTRY ADVENTURE

Genuinely rare fragrances, defined by our botanical adventures and the unusual ingredients we grow and distil on our estate. The final creations, crafted by our Master Perfumer in Grasse, are complex and intriguing.

DISCOVER THE HOUR OF DUSK INTRODUCING OUR AND GOLD COLLECTION NEW CANDLES

Sensuous and silky, evoking the warmth Created to complement our perfumes of a Moroccan evening, with Persian wild and bring hours of scented enjoyment. carrot seed and angelica from our estate, Three glorious fragrances, hand poured in embellished with orris, nutmeg and small batches. accents of liquidambar.

WWW.PARTERREFRAGRANCES.COM AB-SCENT FRIENDS Spraying home for Christmas Always the most scented season, fragrance has taken on a particular significance this Christmas, as we scent our homes and spray

perfumes not only to make WHILE WE’RE virtually Zoom-ing family members around the globe, everything smell wonderful calling vulnerable great-aunts and grandparents for a catch-up but to remind ourselves of or simply recalling beloved souls loved ones we’re missing who’ve passed away, a mere

spritz of their favourite fragrance

Compiled by SUZY NIGHTINGALE can immediately conjure their presence as if by magic. and JO FAIRLEYó So we asked some of our favourite perfumers, fragrance experts and bloggers what perfume they’d spray to evoke a loved one who can’t be around this Christmas. Here are the scent memories we shall be taking great comfort – and joy – in, this year… ‘MY BELOVED STEPFATHER passed away in October, and I so miss his daily comments on fragrance: mini reviews ‘BOXING DAY over the festive period of those me and my mum wore (‘Oooh! usually means the visit of my sister and THAT’s nice!’), and talking about scents her wonderful family, but this year, he loved to wear himself. His favourite ‘MY GO-TO SCENT when I’m missing since her son Max has Down’s of all the bottles I’d given him over the my daughter is Chanel Coromandel: Syndrome and is vulnerable to the years (and there were many!) was it’s one of her favourites, and mine, virus, we won’t be seeing them, as they Bentley Momentum. He liked the fact it and to me it always evokes this time have to super-shield to keep Max safe. smelled classic yet truly characterful, of year. It’s a winter comfort-blanket Normally he would be entertaining us just like him. I took it to him in hospital, of a fragrance; rich and nostalgic with after lunch with a medley of his after his stroke, to help him feel more amber, patchouli, and frankincense. favourite West End Musical songs and human again – the nurses commented To me it smells of Christmas; of open boy band hits - he’s studying drama at how lovely his room always smelled, fires, mulled spices; precious woods, the extraordinary Chickenshed and it pleased him immensely. I warm resin. I know that she’ll be Theatre. He loves to dance too, sprayed it on his best suit, just before wearing it too; so that if we’re not swirling in a mist of Zadig & Voltaire taking it to the funeral home – he was able to spend This Is Him, his current favourite scent. always fastidiously groomed and would Christmas It’s been super hard for Max, who is have appreciated that touch. I’ve been together this normally a very sociable person and spraying it on his cosiest cardigan, year, I can be loves our big family gatherings, we’re which some nights I’ve wrapped myself with her, in going to miss in for comfort; and I shall spray it again spirit, at least; his joie de on Christmas Day – we’re setting him a the ghost of vivre as well place at the Christmas as his sharp dinner table, Present.’ dressing and as always. JOANNE enthusiastically He’ll be with HARRIS applied scent.’ us in spirit AMANDA and scent…’ CARR, SUZY wewearperfume NIGHTINGALE, .com Senior Writer, The Perfume Society

14 THE scented LETTER ‘MY LATE GRANDMOTHER, Freda, was born in 1921 and was always such a lady. I have inherited her fondness ‘SINCE MY TWIN sister was for scarves and brooches and her diagnosed with ovarian cancer two love of Coty L’Aimant. This will be our years ago, every moment I spend seventeenth with her is precious. This Christmas Christmas ‘THIS CHRISTMAS I’m going to be we can’t be together as normal - without her, wearing 4160 Tuesdays Wash Me but luckily, since Alison loves my but I will In The Water. Whilst it might seem Firedance fragrance, I can spray be wearing like a summery scent from first sniff, some around me and feel she is L’Aimant as a it reminds me of my grandma’s there with me too. Firedance is a way of keeping garden in Yorkshire where she would fragrance all about celebration, her near.’ always grow a patch of mint. I lost with its hint of fruity champagne in SAM SCRIVEN, my Gran this year during the first the top, leading into a bouquet of iscentyouaday lockdown, and so this Christmas I’ll be roses, and a warm place by the fire .com remembering happier times with this conjuring smoke and leather. So I will lovely scent that transports me back to be celebrating still having her with childhood. She us, missing ‘I’LL BE SPRAYING Maison Margiela would send me her terribly Replica By The Fireplace mixed with outside, often but looking KAYALI Vanilla | 28, as it’s the perfect in the rain, to forward scent to remind me of the holidays pick mint that to happier we spent as a family in Iceland and she would snip moments of Finland. I’m over peas or celebration in going to potatoes.’ 2021.’ travel through NICOLA RUTH the power of THOMIS, MASTENBROEK, scent!’ the-sniff.com perfumer MONA KATTAN, Co-founder HUDA Beauty & KAYALI

© Leigh Prather – stock.adobe.com perfume

THE scented LETTER 15 the master of modern femininity

‘HOW DO YOU conjure the smell of someone you’ve never met? One of the main things on my mind during the last few months is that I haven’t ‘MY PARTNER Sophie’s mother cannot yet had the chance to introduce ‘FOR MORE THAN 15 years I’ve be with us because of COVID (she lives myself to the newest member of the celebrated Christmas at my in- in Tbilisi, Georgia) and is a mad family: my little nephew, who lives laws’ home in Texas, where only Escentric Molecules Escentric 04 user, abroad. In normal circumstances, the hospitality is bigger than the so this will be the perfect instant I would have made the journey to jewellery. This year I will miss seeing memory of her. In other cases, it might meet him in September, held him in my beautiful and naughty mother- be the smell of certain food someone my arms, looked into his eyes, and in-law, Shell Morrison, Viscountess would cook for Christmas, so trying to started what would hopefully be a Dunrossil, who wears Guerlain’s (of make something life-long connection. But this hasn’t course!) Oud Essentiel. This creation as close as happened yet. I don’t know of mine is a fresh and aromatic take on possible to the when it will... and I can’t stop thinking oud that now original recipe, about it. So this Christmas, I would reminds me you should be somehow like to bring my baby of the lively, able to help nephew into our midst. I know that hippie chic ease that in Spain, orange blossom water is personality of missing sometimes sprinkled on babies. So Mama Shell.’ feeling...’ perhaps, when I make the umpteenth THIERRY GEZA SCHOEN, video call to catch a glimpse of the WASSER, perfumer little guy on screen, I’ll fill the room Guerlain with Penhaligon’s Orange Blossom. Master And in future, Perfumer use the scent as a way of looking forward to meeting him, one day soon...’ PERSOLAISE, perfume blogger

16 THE scented LETTER ‘I DON’T remember spending an actual Christmas Day with my late-Victorian grandfather. Years later, my aunt told me he always maintained that he was “going away”, in fact so as to remain quietly at home. But I remember the tree going up: always in the back kitchen for some arcane reason, trimmed mostly with ‘FOR THE FIRST Christmas in 24 painted pine cones and feathery angels. ‘IF THERE IS one person I would years I am likely to be separated Whenever I smell Knize Ten I am conjure up on Christmas Day from my daughter at Christmas, as reminded of grandpa’s house in through scent it would be my late we live in France and she works in December: simultaneously slightly best friend, Paula Yates – not least to London. Chanel Beige was her first damp and very smoky. Always full of watch her side-splittingly hilarious desire for a grown-up perfume and smouldering log fires, oil paints, beer rounds of charades, as the turkey it smells gorgeous on her. Though and spirits, old leather clothing, animal blackened in the oven (again). (like a proper hide rugs, ancient peeling mackintoshes She wore Diorissimo for most of perfume), and tobacco. It was a house built the years I knew her. For months only to be for Mediterranean summers not the after she died, I’d become aware used for English Midland winters of 65 years of its lily of the valley perfection in special ago, but it had immense character, a unexpected places and I loved that occasions.’ vast garden and for a small child , great reminder. LORNA magic. There’s a particular smell about Even now, MCKAY, Christmas Day dawn that captures all one spritz and Co-founder of that for me, and it’s somewhere deep in it’s like we’re The Perfume the heart of centennial Knize Ten, too: together, Society along with a dank mustiness, a rich deep giggling, ambery and animalic quality. Something again.’ warm and furry and the colour of JO FAIRLEY, fallen leaves : Co-founder of something alive, The Perfume feral and spicy Society - stirring in the dead depths of midwinter.’ JAMES CRAVEN, Fragrance Archivist, Les Senteurs © Leigh Prather – stock.adobe.com

THE scented LETTER 17 THE MOST INTENSE SCENTS EXTRAITS, EXTRAITS, FORGIVE ME FOR THE PUN, but as I type these words, everything feels quite concentrated. I don’t need to spell out the reasons, and I don’t wish to let a single cloud appear in what is meant to be a piece glowing with festive optimism. But because of the forces that have shaped READ ALL this strangest of years, we seem to have reached a place where things count more than they used to. Every meet- up with a friend is intense. Every journey away from home is memorable. Every purchase is weighed and considered and pondered. In other words, what used to be ordinary seems to have ABOUT IT! taken on a sheen of extra ‘specialness’. And perhaps that’s why we’re all far more aware than we ever used to be of the approach of the gift-giving season. The problem of As we dress up for the festive finding just the right present for our nearest and dearest somehow feels more acute at the moment. What do you season – albeit, perhaps, with give someone in a year when you want every last drop of your affections to be distilled into that gorgeously- no place but home to go – wrapped parcel under the tree? Enter: the extrait, arguably the most precious form PERSOLAISE explores the of perfume available. For many years, this particular category of fragrances has not registered very strongly timely revival of perfume’s on our collective scented radar. However, things appear most precious form to be changing, with more brands releasing their wares in extraits form, perhaps in response to a perceived craving for that extra measure of luxury. Actually, these are nothing new. This fragrant format (which may also be referred to as ‘parfum’, ‘extract’, or inaccurately, ‘pure perfume’) has been around since the birth of modern perfumery. Think of any of the grand fragrances from around 70 to 100 years ago – the old Chanels, the Carons, the Guerlains – and you can be pretty sure that they were originally sold in two formats: extrait and eau de toilette. Most often, both versions would have stemmed from the same base formula, but the former would have contained a significantly higher proportion of the actual perfume concentrate in alcohol (somewhere around 20%), while the eau de toilette would have been markedly more dilute (hovering around the 5% mark). The choice of which to wear really boiled down to the effect that the wearer sought to create. As Thierry Wasser, in-house perfumer at Guerlain and current guardian of the legendary Mitsouko, Shalimar and L’Heure Bleue explains,

‘Extraits are more personal, they’re much closer to you. PICTURE LIBRARY EVANS MARY WRIGHT, OF DAVID © ESTATE

18 THE scented LETTER What do you give someone in a year when you want every last drop of your affections to be distilled “into the gorgeously-wrapped parcel under the tree?

” THE scented LETTER 31 THE MOST INTENSE SCENTS

Wearing them is a different experience.’ became something of a niche choice: the preserve of the There’s a common misconception that because they’re truly committed scenthusiast. more concentrated, extraits are diffusive, that they project In truth, there has never been a strict legal definition of themselves more powerfully, with more va-va-voom. But what can be called an extrait, an eau de parfum or an eau not necessarily. Wasser says, ‘You shouldn’t confuse long- de toilette. No benchmark for precisely how concentrated lastingness with diffusion.’ Yes, an extrait will keep unfurling a scent has to be to ‘qualify’ for the extrait label. The only its mysteries for several hours after application – but that requirement, as such, is that within the range of a specific doesn’t mean it reveals those mysteries to every single product – say, Chanel No5 – the extrait should simply be person in the room. It saves them for those afforded more more concentrated than the EDP, which in turn should intimate levels of access. be more concentrated than the EDT. So, confusingly For several decades, these extraits and eaux de toilette for perfume-lovers, it was perfectly possible for a 1980s co-existed in a happy relationship. They complemented release labelled as an eau de parfum by one perfume each other well, and consumers were aware of the differing house to be more concentrated than a 1940s release roles they played in their fragrance wardrobes. Parfum called an extrait by another brand. All you can be sure of was for night, for special occasions. Eau de toilette was today is that any perfume house’s extrait/parfum is their for everyday, the office, for making us feel dressed, rather most intense version of that particular scent. (And their than dressed-up. But in the 1980s most expensive, to boot.) an unexpected change occurred, In recent months and years, the long-term impact of which was meanwhile, several perfume houses to make extraits all but drop off the have revived and reinvigorated their perfume-wearer’s radar. extrait offering. Neil Chapman, award- According to perfumer Francis The extrait became winning author of Perfume: In Search of Kurkdjian, whose own perfume “ Your Signature Scent, is excited by this something of a niche house now offers several extraits, ‘In development, although he can’t help the 80s, there was a special tax on choice: the preserve view it with a measure of suspicion. luxury goods introduced in France. of the truly committed ‘The cynic in me thinks it is Extraits, but not eaux de toilette, just another way to capitalise on began to be taxed at 33%, which scenthusiast “exclusivity”, by making already was an additional 13% on top of expensive perfumes even more so. the regular VAT. To avoid the extra On the other hand, it is possible that charge, brands came up with a new, perfume lovers are rediscovering the intermediate concentration between enjoyment to be had from a more the EDT and the extrait, with a price private experience that is less about positioning lower than extraits.’ (And all-importantly, in that” sillage and more about a certain private intensity,’ he adds, lower tax bracket.) more positively. This, then, was the birth of the eau de parfum – What’s interesting is that today, in our era, the different although that wasn’t the name given to this new, ‘middle’ concentrations are no longer always from the same concentration, at first. Different brands (to be precise, their ‘base’. So an extrait, an EDP and an EDT may not only marketing departments) dreamed up their own labels, be different only terms of their dilution; they can each including esprit de parfum, parfum de toilette and soie de have a subtly different formula, giving their creators an parfum. But eau de parfum was the name that stuck – and it opportunity to revisit ideas and emphasise or tease out has duly become the bestselling scent format, today. different aspects within the construction of the fragrance. The runaway success of the EDP actually contributed to Ramp up the vanilla, perhaps. Play down the citrus. Or the decline of the extrait. As Mathilde Laurent, exclusive maybe add a completely new ingredient to the mix. ‘We scent-creator at Cartier explains, this new concentration was can draw a comparison with fashion,’ explains Francis ‘persistent enough to last all day long,’ effectively making Kurkdjian. ‘The same gown can be interpreted in a ready- the extrait redundant. ‘Wearing a scent that lasted for [as to-wear version with a single embroidered embellishment, long as] 24 hours, as an eau de parfum does, meant there or an haute couture version, adorned with an abundance was really no point in offering anything stronger.’ of embroidery, beads and feathers.’ Coupled with the fact that this was the era of Poison, Few of us may be able to give our loved ones an haute Giorgio and Coco, which, to put it mildly, held their own couture masterpiece for Christmas, but extraits aren’t quite well as eaux de parfum, the result was that the extrait nearly so bank-breaking, and there are definitely quite a

20 THE scented LETTER This page and overleaf: some of the most fabulous extraits that can be worn today

THE MOST INTENSE SCENTS

few I’d recommend to anyone looking for some shopping list inspiration. First up would have to be the oldest extrait still in THE EXPERTS ON EXTRAITS existence: Guerlain Jicky, originally released in 1889. A heartbreaking contrast between outdoorsy, herbal notes FRANCIS KURDJIAN and decidedly more carnal aspects, it ought to be part ‘An extrait can reveal some of any scent lover’s collection. It goes without saying other facets of a formula that Chanel No5 in extrait form is another must-have – while still being attached especially as it’s about to turn 100 years old! – but don’t to the spinal column of ignore the house’s other extraits, such as the suede-purring the olfactory composition. Cuir de Russie, the heaven-sent No22 and the surprisingly, For example, our Baccarat yet deliciously funky Coromandel. Rouge 540 extrait has the Christine Nagel’s Galop d’Hermès, in its striking same silhouette as the eau stirrup-shaped bottle (far left), is one of a small number de parfum, but it deploys of extraits offered by the brand: a velvety caress of rose the finest, most precious and leather. Tom Ford has just released a parfum intensity raw ingredients, bringing of his blockbuster, Black Orchid, which sees the original’s more intense depth.’ floral facet made more curvaceous with the addition of a plummy, rum note. And even relatively hipster-focused players like BYREDO have got in on the extrait game, MATHILDE LAURENT grouping them as the Night Veils collection. ‘Composing the new For those looking towards the Arabian horizon, Cartier La Panthère Parfum Amouage is tough to beat. Not many people are aware was like a game, a riddle. I that nearly every single one of the brand’s feminine was looking for something creations, including Gold, Epic and Lyric, is available as that was coherent with a rich, intoxicating extrait. But the Oman-based house the existing versions while is about to enter new territory by releasing their first adding something that extrait aimed specifically at men. Interlude 53 is a limited wasn’t in them already. The edition version of the original Interlude Man EDP. And answer was given to me by when you discover that the ‘53’ in the name refers to its osmanthus, which allowed concentration – 53% perfume concentrate, in alcohol – you me to warm the gardenia begin to have some sense of how potent this stuff is. in Panthère even more.’ Unsurprisingly, the independent sector offers several extrait options, some of the most notable being Neela Vermeire’s Mohur (which takes the EDP’s rose into even THIERRY WASSER smoother realms), Tauer Perfumes Au Coeur Du Desert ‘It makes me sad that (a more concentrated form of their much-loved L’Air Du people don’t really know Desert Marocain), Jeroboam’s Unue (with its retro-inflected how to use extraits so take on white florals), Olfactive Studio’s Rose Shot, Violet much any more. I love to Shot and Iris Shot (all composed by maestro Dominique wear a little bit of extrait, Ropion) and Francesca Bianchi’s Etruscan Water (the finest just for me. And going to bitter-leather Chypre I’ve smelt for a long time). bed with an extrait on the But as Cartier’s Mathilde Laurent rightly points out, ‘The skin — holy moly, that’s so most luxurious form of perfume is the one you love, the awesome! My favourite one you prefer.’ So there’s absolutely nothing wrong with of the Guerlain classic sticking to that tried and tested EDT, if that’s the one that extraits is Shalimar. It’s a always whisks you to your own olfactory nirvana. sheer beauty.’ But perhaps this year, of all years, is the time to give the extrait some attention: an opportunity to slow down, NEIL CHAPMAN reflect and appreciate what Francis Kurkdjian refers to ‘Chanel No19 vintage extrait is ‘the quintessence of a dream — the ultimate olfactory my ultimate perfume in terms of expression for a perfumer.’ just smelling fantastic. But if I am As far as gifts go, what could be more generous? honest with myself, I don’t know if I love it more than Guerlain Vol Going to bed with an extrait — de Nuit, which is so extraordinary and emotive in extrait form, it holy moly, that’s so awesome! truly takes me to another realm.’ “THIERRY WASSER

” THE scented LETTER 23

PERFUMED PROMOTION GIORGIO ARMANI’S Christmas Star It’s time. Time to get out the gladrags, time to celebrate the holidays and – hoorah – time to say ‘Sì’ to glamour and passion, again…

WE’VE HAD an extraordinary humming that track afterwards, we’ll notes of freesia, which work to tease relationship with fragrance, in 2020. be very surprised.) It honestly makes out the subtle patchouli, an essential It has comforted us. Wrapped us us want to reach for something that and unmistakeable signature of a in its warmth. Brightened gloomy isn’t made of flannelette or denim, put Chypre. And then, as Sì warms on your mornings with a ray of sunshine, in on some heels (remember those?) and pulse-points, imagine the olfactory olfactory form. And because of scent’s up the tempo of our lives. equivalent of the lights dimming in a unique power to shift our mood, That invitation to say ‘yes’ to life ballroom, or a restaurant: it is time to its feel-good factor, it is no wonder is what Giorgio Armani Sì has been get sensual, with blond amber wood, that almost everyone we talk to tells all about, right from the beginning. alongside intense OrcanoxTM, veiling us that fragrance has become more As Giorgio Armani himself put it, ‘Sì the skin in their subtle, irresistibly important to them than ever, this year. is my tribute to modern femininity, nuzzleable warmth. But now, it is time for fragrance to an irresistible combination of grace, Since it debuted, Sì has become perform its other circus feat: to flick strength and independent spirit.’ Sì nothing less than a modern classic. the glamour switch in our lives and And it has, more recently, been joined make us feel truly, tinglingly excited by Sì Passione, with its showstopping again, after months of low-key living. scarlet interpretation of the beautiful And we ask you: is there anyone that original flacon – the colour of passion does that better than Giorgio Armanì, and love itself, of course. In the whether it’s on the catwalk or in our words of the maestro Giorgio Armani fragrance wardrobes…? himself, again: ‘Sì Passione is an We recommend that you start irresistible combination of grace, right here. And if you have yet to strength and independence of spirit.’ feel charged up with the energy that Composed by perfumer Julie Massé, traditionally characterises this time the signature blackcurrant Jungle of year, we advise you to take a few EssenceTM nectar is given added moments to view Giorgio Armani’s Sì Passione ingredients above sparkle by a touch of pear and spicy new, magical Christmas film, starring pink pepper – an olfactory burst of the magnetic actress Cate Blanchett, happens to be a contemporary floral adrenaline. In the fragrance’s pulsing Global Beauty Ambassador. (If you Chypre – a very ‘now’ interpretation heart, you’ll encounter rose, yes, don’t catch it on a bigger screen, of a fragrance family which is widely but also powdery heliotrope and just Google ‘Giorgio Armani Cate acknowledged to be the most an almost photorealistic jasmine Blanchett 2020’ – and hey, presto. sophisticated of all, and adored by absolute. The finale? Cedarwood and Pure video joy.) fragrance connoisseurs. that ambery-woody OrcanoxTM, again. To the soundtrack of a remixed Three accords swirl elegantly at And so, to these fragrances that version of the 1963 ‘You Don’t Own the heart of Sì: cassis nectar, modern make us long to embrace not just Me’, by American singer Lesley Chypre and light musky wood. In glamour, passion and femininity but Gore, it’s a series of vignettes with the cassis accord, the dark fruit – life itself, after all that we’ve been Cate Blanchett, ravishing in a series harvested via a special extraction through this year, we say, simply: ‘Sì’… of show-stopping outfits – think process – is enriched with not one glistening sequins and layers of tulle but two types of vanilla, one natural, Sì – from £55 for 30ml eau de parfum – and clearly having the time of her the other a Jungle EssenceTM, which Sì Passione – £59 for 30ml eau de life bringing to life the letters that enfold you in their sensuality. You’ll parfum spell A-R-M-A-N-I. (And if you’re not also encounter rose de Mai, along with armanibeauty.co.uk

THE scented LETTER 25 PerfumePerfume PlaygroundPlayground

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www.PerfumePlayground.com YOUR FRAGRANT CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE 2020

Sacks and pillowcases to the ready, perfume-lovers. From home fragrance to stocking stuffers via covetable coffrets, the elves have been busier than ever STOCKING FILLERS 2020’s been all about small pleasures. Here are some of our festive fragrant faves

Floris Edwardian Bouquet Luxury Soaps £23 for three florislondon.com

Acqua di Parma Hair Mist Collection £45 for three x 7ml acquadiparma.com

Soapsmith Columbia Road Soap £10 soapsmith.com

Yardley Luxury Soap Collection £6 yardleylondon.co.uk

Tocca Perfect Pair (various fragrances) £19 jarrold.co.uk ALL PRICES AND AVAILABILITY CHECKED AT TIME OF PRESS CHECKED AT ALL PRICES AND AVAILABILITY

28 THE scented LETTER Molton Brown Juniper Philosophy Cozy by Jazz Bath & Shower Gel the Fire Shower Gel £24 for 300ml £15 for 480ml moltonbrown.co.uk next.co.uk Heathcote & Ivory The Artist’s Journey Travel Collection £14 heathcote-ivory.com

Diptyque Do Son Perfumed Bracelet with Three Charms £75 diptyqueparis.com

Malin+Goetz Leather Perfume Oil £40 for 9ml malinandgoetz.co.uk

Benamôr Hand Cream Gift Set €21 benamor1925.com

TIP Don’t forget to tuck a tangerine in everyone’s stocking. Christmas morning isn’t Christmas

Buly Scented Matches without that €12.50 buly1803.com zesty moment…

THE scented LETTER 29 CRACKERS & BAUBLES What the perfume-lover’s Christmas tree and table will be wearing (and scented with) this year

Diptyque Scented Floris Fragrance Star (white crêpe Ornament (Honey paper infused with Oud/Bergamotto Vera Wang Moonlit Fir) £60 di Positano) £45 Princess diptyqueparis.com florislondon.com Cracker £40 lookfantastic.com

Bamford Body Christmas Cracker £28 bamford.com

Molton Brown Festive Bauble Floral Street Fragrance Cracker £24 floralstreet.com (single) £14 each moltonbrown.com

30 THE scented LETTER Diptyque Ornaments (Shooting Star/Paris Snowgobe/Lion/ Lily of the valley/Swan/) £32 each diptyqueparis.com

Jo Malone London Online Exclusive Cracker Collection Jo Malone London Luxury Bauble Collection £140 jomalone.co.uk £64 for six jomalone.co.uk

Aromatherapy Associates Mini Moment Support Breathe £12 aromatherapy associates.com

Molton Brown Christmas Crackers (Floral & Citrus/Citrus & Woody/Woody & Aromatic) £20 each moltonbrown.com

Penhaligons For the Delightful Damsels/Jolly Gent Molton Brown Festive Baubles Set £42 each penhaligons.com £30 moltonbrown.com

THE scented LETTER 31 DISCOVER, EXPLORE, ENJOY Blowing our own (angelic) trumpet here, with just some of the fabulous collections you can find showcased on our site

THE BRIT BOX NAUGHTY BUT NICHE Parterre Discovery Set £20 £60 strangelove Discovery Set From West Country field to flacon (and fab, with it): Five opulent fragrant oils from New York’s most fascinating scent name a stunningly creative quartet

FOR SOMEONE WHO DARES TO BE DIFFERENT Escentric Molecules Discovery Set £25 10 to try from the ‘cult’ fragrance house

TIP Feeling flush? Promise them a full-size of their favourite fragrance from within one of the collections featured here FOR THE ECO-CONSCIOUS FRIEND THE STOCKING FILLER Mihan Aromatics Discovery Set £33 Rook Parfums Discovery Set £15 This all-natural Aussie name showcases native botanicals – beautifully A darling trio from a British ‘rising star’ scent brand

32 THE scented LETTER FOR THE INDIE SCENT-SEEKER FOR HIM AND FOR HER (TOGETHER) The Niche V Collection £27 (£23 to V.I.P. Club Members) An amazing The Sharing Collection £23 (£19 to V.I.P. Club Members) line-up of 19 creations from independent fragrance houses 12 treats to explore together. (Because caring is sharing, right?)

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FOR A FAH-BU-LOUS FRIEND Harvey Nichols x The Perfume Society Fragrance Discovery Box £45 Our second spectacular collaboration with the Knightsbridge store

BECAUSE THEY’RE WORTH IT The Indulgence Discovery Box £36 (£32 to V.I.P. Club Members) If ever there’s been a year we deserved a treat, this is it

THE scented LETTER 33 SWOONWORTHY SETS Beautiful boxes, fah-bu-lous scents (and often a gorgeous extra or two)

Jimmy Choo Fever £59 lookfantastic.com Dior J’Adore £121 selfridges.com

Tom Ford Black Orchid £85 tomford.co.uk AERIN Amber Musk £110 harveynichols.com

Penhaligons For Merry Maidens £40 penhaligons.com Creed Love in White Bath & Body £405 creedfragrances.co.uk

34 THE scented LETTER Tiffany & Co. Eau de Parfum Gift Set £112 johnlewis.com Floris Fragrance Travel Collection for Her £80 florislondon.com

Chanel Les Eaux de Chanel Le Voyage £195 debenhams.com Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey £57 lookfantastic.com

Kayali Glitz Gift Set £78 net-a-porter.com Goutal Paris Eau d’Hadrien £132 harveynichols.com

THE scented LETTER 35 Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Kenzo Flower by Kenzo Marc Jacobs Daisy Joyeux Noel perfume gun £75 escentual.com £79 lookfantastic.com £120 fredericmalle.co.uk

HERMÈS Twilly d’Hermès £78 johnlewis.com Cartier La Panthère £117 harveynichols.com

Yardley Traditional Florals Eau de Toilette Collection £8 boots.com Guerlain Shalimar £81 guerlain.com

36 THE scented LETTER Armani Sì £50.50 thefragranceshop.co.uk

Tocca Mini Replica Trio £58 libertylondon.com

Kilian Black Phantom Holiday Set £205 bykilian.co.uk

Sisley Eau du Soir £94.50 harveynichols.com

TIP Looking to cut down on waste? Most fragrance gift sets are the perfect shape for knotting inside a vintage All Saints 2-Piece Gift Boxes (Sunset Riot/Flora Mortis/Leather Skies) £49 each allsaints.com scarf

THE scented LETTER 37 THE BOXING MATCH When he smells good, you look great. And every one of these fragrance collections is a knockout

Moschino Toy Boy £85 selfridges.com Cartier Déclaration £90 harveynichols.com

Dunhill London ICON Racing £88 notino.co.uk HUGO BOSS BOSS Bottled Infinite £55 escentual.com

Creed Aventus 10 Year Limited Edition Grooming Jimmy Choo Man £48 lookfantastic.com Gift Set £400 creedfragrances.co.uk

38 THE scented LETTER Armani Acqua di Giò £59 allbeauty.com Guerlain Habit Rouge £78 guerlain.com

Tom Ford Oud Wood £196 tomford.co.uk Chanel Bleu de Chanel Travel Set £132 chanel.com

TIP Our Find-A- Fragrance online advisor now features men’s as well as shared and feminine scents – and made over 2 million recommendations

this year Acqua di Parma Barbiere Grooming Kit £68 johnlewis.com

THE scented LETTER 39 Dolce & Gabbana The One £76 lookfantastic.com

Montblanc Explorer £52 houseoffraser.co.uk

Yardley Gentleman Classic Eau de Parfum Collection Dior Eau Sauvage Fragrance Set £83.50 dior.com £14.50 boots.com

Acqua di Parma Colonia Eau de Cologne Discovery Set £130 johnlewis.com

Bulgari Man Glacial Essence £91 escentual.com

40 THE scented LETTER Gucci Guilty for Him £55 theperfumeshop.com Paco Rabanne 1 Million £54 pacorabanne.com

David Beckham Homme & Instinct Floris Fragrance Travel Collection for Him £39.95 superdrug.com £80 florislondon.com

Penhaligon’s For the Festive Fellow £40 penhaligons.com Guerlain L’Homme Idéal £78 guerlain.com

THE scented LETTER 41 Working from HOME FRAGRANCES Because we want to live surrounded by the smells we love

Floris Cinnamon & Tangerine Scented Le Labo Candles Discovery Set Candle £40 florislondon.com £56 for three lelabofragrances.co.uk

Molton Brown Juniper Jazz £42 moltonbrown.co.uk

Jonathan Ward Precious Candles (Kartushya, Afreet, Hermitage Noel 1878) £65 each jonathanward.me

Eight & Bob Sagaponack Diffuser £75 ab-presents.co.uk

42 THE scented LETTER Maison Francis Kurkdjian Mon Beau Sapin Dinner Candles £45 for three johnlewis.com

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Mon Beau Sapin £60 lessenteurs.com

Goutal Une Forêt d’Or Limited DS&DURGA Portable Xmas Edition Candle £65 next.co.uk Tree Candle £60 e-scents.co.uk

Acqua di Parma Notte di Stelle Diffuser (left) and Candle (above) £70 for 180ml and £60 acquadiparma.com

Keep TIPcandles away from rattling windows and chimney draughts, to ensure a smooth, safe

burn Scandinavisk Candle (Træ, Jul, Snö) £35 each scandinavisk.com

THE scented LETTER 43 Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Tom Dixon Fire Diffuser Joyeux Noel perfume gun £85 lessenteurs.com £120 fredericmalle.co.uk

Floral Street Santal Mysore Diffuser £28 floralstreet.com

Malin + Goetz Dark Rum Candle £42 malinandgoetz.co.uk

Salvatore Ferragamo Tuscan Creations La Commedia Diffuser £90 ab-presents.co.uk Diptyque Lucky Stars Candles £53 each diptyqueparis.com TIP

Occasionally swirl the liquid in your diffuser (carefully) – it reactivates the sticks

44 THE scented LETTER Cire Trudon £88-350 ciretrudon.com

Diptyque Moonlit Fir Interior Scent £34; Diptyque Limited Edition Floral Majesty/Amber Feather/Moonlit Fir candles £32 each diptyqueparis.com

BYREDO Altar candle £59 byredo.com Jack Piccadilly 69 Candle £45 jackperfume.co.uk

THE scented LETTER 45 AN AROMATIC LIFE

MEMORIES, DREAMS, REFLECTIONS SUZY NIGHTINGALE caught up with SANTA CLAUS at his North Pole workshop, via Zoom, just prior to his busiest time of year. When he’s not clocking up airmiles on his delivery round, how does the hirsute philanthropist indulge his sense of smell…?

What’s the very first thing you need to be up on the latest fashions to The smell that always makes me feel remember smelling? The sea. People get an idea of what people will want happy is… Mince pies baking in the think I’m all about the snow but forget – nowadays it’s all spreadsheets and oven. Utterly clichéd, I know, but it’s I was born in Patara (now named trend forecasts and what have you, but true. You think I’d be sick of them, but Antalya), also known as the Turkish I’ve always kept my nose out for the no. Mince pies for breakfast, me. Or I Riviera. I go back every year for a latest scents. would, if Mrs. Claus let me. paddle. The other smell is rosewater, I first favoured the Hammam which my anne [mum] used to pour Bouquet, long ago now. It’s the The smell that always makes me feel into my bath. Very toning for the skin. first fragrance Penhaligon’s ever a bit sad is… Sherry. Look I’m sorry to did, inspired by the steamy rose, be controversial, but I got a little bit When did you realise that scent was sandalwood and musk of the Turkish toooo ‘merry’ on it in 1984, and now really important to you? Smell and baths. I’d often pop over on the sled one whiff and I’m shuddering. Little taste are incredibly connected, aren’t to London for a quip dip and a beard Timothy in Bury St. Edmonds got an they? So, with my first mouthful of trim by Will Penhaligon himself. extra surprise in his stocking that year. proper grub, I expect. The Kolonya I mentioned before Bad times. came out in 1920 and was quite the What’s your favourite scented flower? thing. Tuncer had a lovely little shop in The scent that I love on a woman is… Antalya produces 95% of Turkey’s Ankara where he’d hand out samples Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige. flower exports, y’know, so I’ve halcyon and an informative leaflet. Can’t beat Mrs Claus smelled this on one of the childhood memories connected with a sample, can you? Much later I fell swankier elves (who used to work in sniffing the flowers. Got to be the rose, for the marketing of Hai Karate. Bit Liberty’s perfume department) and though, hasn’t it? of a low point. The adverts basically after much ‘hinting’ I got her a bottle. said you’d have women chasing you It’s powdery and soft. Smells like her What was the first fragrance you were through the streets and Mrs. Claus kisses. Flippin’ expensive, but lovely. given? Kolonya – traditional Turkish took against that, rather. Then in the Aforementioned elf not best pleased Cologne. It’s a household staple. My 1970s I liked a bit of Caron Yatagan. It her ‘signature scent has been stolen’, favourite is still the lemon one from has notes of watercress and lavender apparently, but I keep well out of it. I Eyüp Sabi Tuncer. but is basically iced pine and herb-y suppose it was inevitable I’d fall for a bitter green freshness with a smashing perfume with ‘snow’ in its name. What was the first fragrance you dry-down of leather and a very bought for yourself? I’m usually given seasonal waft of incense. My favourite book about perfume them, which is nice, but the first one Nowadays I’m really in to Nishane is… Not perfume-related, but still I remember buying was Penhaligon’s Colognisé – it’s citrus, green tea and smell-related: it would have to be Hammam Bouquet, back in 1872. sparkling jasmine over lily of the The Essential Scratch & Sniff Guide to valley, vetiver and musk – an Extrait Becoming a Whiskey Know-It-All by Have you had different fragrances for de Cologne that’s very long lasting, Richard Betts. I’m not saying I don’t like different phases of your life…? by a marvellous niche house based in milk, but… Abso-bloomin-lutely! I suppose people Turkey. Big up ma homeboys! Thinking think of me as an old duffer, but I’m back, I’ve always gone for Cologne Follow Father Christmas as he journeys not always in this red velvet gear, you or fresher styles. They remind me of around the globe via GPS tracking know. I’ve done flares and drainpipes home and give me a bit of get-up- noradsanta.org (North American and, once, a skinny jean. The elves wet and-go, even when my sciatica gives Aerospace Defence Command) – a themselves laughing over those. Said me gip. Those bloomin’ chimneys are very important service they’ve been I looked like a hipster. But anyway, I dreadful for the back. performing since 1955.

46 THE scented LETTER Santa’s five favourite smells

1 WINTER

ACONITE These sweet-smelling flowers are everywhere in Turkey; bright yellow little drops of sunshine that pop up while there’s still snow on the ground. It’s the smell of spring (and freedom!)

2 KYPHI I travelled a lot in

Egypt when I was young, and the smell of this honeyed, fruity Santa adores the scent of mince pies but has painful memories of his Hai Karate years incense is like no other.

3 WOODSMOKE Even

though I have an aversion to chimneys, I adore the smell of woodsmoke curling through cold air. It’s the aroma of comfort, of home.

4 REINDEER FUR Not going

to lie, they can get a bit whiffy; but when they’ve had a good scrub, there’s this particular spot behind their ears that’s The coastline of just lovely. Antalya, in Turkey, Santa’s birthplace

Above: a favourite book of ‘smells’. Above right/below: some fragrances he has worn down the years – including a zesty Turkish Cologne. Right: he just adores the scent of a stationery store.

5 STATIONERY SHOPS I have

a thing for good quality paper and inks (and we get through quite a few at the workshop, as you can imagine). I like to shop for them personally, which annoys the elves as I take absolutely ages choosing (and sniffing) the supplies.

THE scented LETTER 47 Jingle smells

Like our favourite Christmas songs, certain fragrances never fail to deliver festive cheer. VIOLA LEVY looks at what gives them their unique appeal, why we keep going back to them – and shares some of her own favourites BEST-SMELLERS Jingle smells ORMALLY there would be raised eyebrows whose job as a fragrance writer it is to sniff out niche, when Christmas tunes are played on the radio experimental and unusual scents. Around this time of year, in the run-up to December – particularly in the I push those to one side and resort to the classic perfume workplace. I recall one office Grinch standing houses like Estée Lauder, whose Youth Dew, Pleasures up and staging a one-woman-protest for and Bronze Goddess instantly remind me of London Nthat very reason. (‘I can’t take ‘Santa Baby’ department stores in December, inhaling that frenetic, in November!!’) But with the global pandemic forcing us fragrant and festive air. One of their relatively newer scents, to grab any crumb of joy we possibly can, people will be Modern Muse, ticks all the Christmas boxes for me. It has a forgiven for blasting out Eartha Kitt and Co. at the earliest jazzy, sweet yet unmistakably classic woody-floral bouquet opportunity. Because as much as we hate to admit it, those that hits the spot in the same way as eggnog, Bucks Fizz cosy Christmas Number Ones invariably make us smile, in and having ‘Home Alone’ on TV to provide background spite of ourselves. noise to the clatter and chatter of Christmas morning. And when it comes to fragrance, many have that same Indeed, while the niche fragrance scene is booming, effect – the olfactory equivalent of Band Aid’s ‘Do They it’s traditional household names – perhaps worn by our Know It’s Christmas?’, in terms of their nostalgic Christmas own parents, around party season – which we return to vibe. From Flower by Kenzo to Chanel come December, with all the gusto No5, Paco Rabanne 1 Million to Boss and enthusiasm of Chris Rea when he’s Bottled, these are fail-safe classics, driving home for Christmas. more or less guaranteed to go down This is definitely true for Sarah well with whoever is unwrapping them Binns, Head of Training for fragrance around the tree. During the festive distributor Kenneth Green Associates. So is there a magic formula that “ ‘Glamour is what is needed at this makes a scent a ‘Christmas classic?’ season, people want time of year, so big well-known florals, Senior Buyer at The Perfume Shop, comfort and all the vintage powdery accords and rich Miranda Savage, sheds some light on gourmands are always popular,’ she the matter. ‘HUGO BOSS Boss Bottled, security of being says. ‘My Christmas Number One scent for instance, has been around for over would be the retro glamour of Van 20 years and remains a bestseller today. sure of something Cleef & Arpels First – white flowers Scents like this are so popular because and sparkling aldehydes bring a chic, of their versatility; they feature classic, familiar French opulence that many others enjoy masculine notes that create a warm, rich every year, too. Another more recent fragrance with a wide-ranging appeal to JAMES CRAVEN, Les Senteurs introduction that that ticks all the boxes its audience.’ is Cartier La Panthère. A heady Chypre, But what keeps us rewinding and with a gold bottle and a link to Cartier’s replaying these fragrant festive hits? signature panther motif, it makes the ‘There is of course an element of perfect Christmas gift.’ (Especially when nostalgia,’ she says. ‘And although it’s modern to have a ”you can’t afford the actual bracelet or brooch.) “wardrobe” featuring multiple perfumes, many customers Not surprisingly, Dior and Chanel also invariably feature still have a signature scent they’ve worn for years. It may high on people’s wishlists. ‘Dior Sauvage is always a even be the only one they’ve ever worn, dating back to popular choice among our customers and never more so an era when you sought out your signature fragrance and than at Christmas,’ says Miranda Savage. ‘It’s clean, fresh, stuck with it for good. There are certain fragrance houses not too overpowering and a great gift for any man in your and perfumes that have perfectly nailed that universal life. Classics like Chanel No5 or its “younger sister” Coco appeal, which certainly helps in cementing their popularity Mademoiselle never go out of style, either – and have the year after year.’ bonus of looking fabulous on a dressing table.’ James Craven, fragrance archivist and expert at Indeed, when you look at a scent like No5 – described Belgravia scent mecca Les Senteurs, agrees. ‘During by the house of Chanel as a fragrance which ‘becomes the festive season, people want nostalgia; they want more intriguing as time passes’, it’s not hard to unpick why comfort and all the security of being sure of something it became a Christmas classic, featuring in the list of top familiar. They don’t always want to try something new and sellers, year after year, almost a century after it debuted. “experimental”(especially this year – there are enough There’s ‘that bottle’, utterly timeless in its streamlined oddities going on at the moment without that!) No, give us aesthetic. An intriguing numeral, in place of a lyrical name. something we know, that will remind us of a better past…’ The juice itself, with its overdose of aldehydes powering This definitely rings true for me, albeit as someone it out of the bottle. And let’s face it, leaving aside its

THE scented LETTER 49 BEST-SMELLERS

inherent sophistication and beauty, there’s probably some and a room scent (which I guess could have been be used truth in the suggestion that Chanel No5 is a perfume whose together if you really wanted to up the va-va-voom of your name almost every man on the planet can recall, when Christmas gathering). dithering at a perfume counter. (Probably at 5 p.m. on Meanwhile, no round-up of Christmas best-smellers Christmas Eve, if the men I know are anything to go by.) would be complete without a mention of the house of Alongside their status as much-loved classics (and Guerlain, whose 1925 classic Shalimar remains one of their therefore a safe bet when it comes to Christmas gifts), most popular scents – not least come December. ‘Shalimar some perfumes somehow lend themselves incredibly well is a Guerlain icon and always a Christmas favourite,’ notes to this time of year, as James Craven explains. ‘At Les their national beauty expert Olivia Devey. ‘You can’t help Senteurs, Frédéric Malle’s Portrait of a Lady has been a but be bewitched by the seasonally perfect ingredients, big Christmas hit over the last 10 years, mainly because because they’re so fitting for Christmas – tonka bean, it’s such a beautiful scent in itself – with a fantastic name. vanilla and incense. Inspired by an ancient love story, this is But also because its unique character lends itself so well a gift reserved for the one you are trying to seduce.’ to festivities. Rich, dark, warm and Indeed, love stories are a big opulent, it makes a wonderful gift. theme when it comes to classic When you wear it, you somehow Christmas perfumes. It’s the perfect see rich winter colours: dark reds time for revisiting scents from the and purples…’ past, perhaps worn in the early For me, though, when it comes There’s a sense of days of a relationship, in order to to a real razzle-dazzle Christmas “ rekindle romance. As Ormonde perfume, it doesn’t get more wanting to recapture Jayne founder and perfumer glittery than Caron’s Nuit de Noël Linda Pilkington says: ‘There’s a (‘Christmas Eve’), first launched in that special moment sense of wanting to recapture that 1922. Allegedly, the fragrance was special moment when someone’s the idea of longtime colleague when someone’s boyfriend – who might now be their and muse to Caron founder Ernest husband – first bought them their Daltroff, Felicie Wanpouille. As boyfriend – who might favourite scent. I have customers Michael Edwards quotes in his who are fond of scents like our book Perfume Legends II: French now be their husband classic Ormonde Woman, and make Feminine Fragrances, ‘Christmas comments to me along the lines Eve was always special to her. – first bought them of “every year I’ve come to expect She loved the feeling of the rich this scent in my stocking – it’s what festivities and the scent of warm their favourite scent brings us back together. He knows furs and incense.’ LINDA PILKINGTON what I like!”’ The scent itself comes Linda notes that many couples swaggering in with all the colourful buy each other the same scents as uproar of a jazz band: intoxicating a Christmas ritual, year after year. ylang ylang provides the trumpet ‘It makes you feel grounded and solo, followed by a cymbal clash of rose and jasmine, reminds you of what you mean to each other – perhaps undercut with a mellow clarinet wail of oakmoss and ”especially so, when you’ve had a strange year.’ Linda sandalwood. Alas increasingly hard to find nowadays, the has a similar ritual in her own family. ‘I have my scent for bottle is lots of fun too, a sleek black hip flask echoing the Christmas Day, which is my own Orris Noir. It’s a tradition one you might keep in your clutch bag for secret swigs of that came in when my children were little. They commented gin as you try to survive yet another family Christmas party that they loved the way I smelled, so now I’ve worn it every (dodging Auntie Betty’s enquiries of, ‘So, when are you Christmas for the last 14 years! For me, it just captures the going to meet a nice man?’) day like nothing else.’ Caron followed up Nuit de Noël with Voeux de That cocooning, nostalgic sense of familiarity is surely Noël (‘Christmas Wish’) in 1946, then described by The something we’re all craving, for Christmas 2020. Those Sydney Morning Herald as ‘a heady fragrance with strong time-honoured classic fragrances – along with the season’s overtones of carnations, involving opulence and burnished cheesy songs – are going to help everyone through the end colour as mental associations.’ Alas, it is one of those of an unmistakably tough year. And my advice, if you’re dodos of the fragrance world, now extinct. Another classic not feeling the seasonal spirit yet, is to douse yourself seasonal scent of yore, also discontinued, is Houbigant’s generously in a seasonal favourite. Put your vinyl of ‘Now Esprit de Noël (‘the spirit of Christmas’). Created in 1968, That’s What I Call Christmas’ on the turntable (or hook its fuzzy bauble of a bouquet featured notes of orange, iTunes up to your Bluetooth speakers). And prepare to keep myrrh and musks and was available as an eau de Cologne calm and carol – or perhaps Caron – on…

50 THE scented LETTER THE scented LETTER 25 FIRST WHIFFS latest launches Many of the season’s new scents are crying out to be worn with a frock or a tux. NEW Meaning: elegance is back ✶ Oh, we all deserve THIS... The Indulgence Discovery Box – our very first custom box, in black and gold – offers a stunning line-up of luxurious scents (including all seven fragrances in the Carine Roitfeld collection, from the former editor of Paris Vogue), plus a candle from Ruth Mastenbroek. Find it at perfumesociety.org/SHOP, price £36 (£32 to our VIPs). In addition to the above, enjoy... ● FLORAL STREET CHYPRE SUBLIME ● VINES HOUSE PARFUM LOVE STORY ● TOCCA GIULETTA ● LALIQUE (THREE FRAGRANCES) ● VERSACE CRYSTAL NOIR

THE FRAGRANCE FAMILIES

As scentophiles know, fragrances fall into different ‘families’. So we’ve used the same classification system for launches as on our perfumesociety.org website. Just look for the coloured strip above the name of the perfume, which is your visual clue to the families. These are listed below. Most of us are drawn to a specific family/families: once you know which you fall into, that colour can act as a cue – and help you take a short-cut to the ones you may want to try first.

ORIENTAL

FLORIENTAL

CHYPRE WOODY

FLORAL

GOURMAND

FRESH FOUGERE

52 THE scented LETTER 4711 4711 ARMANI/PRIVÉ Floral Collection Jasmine Floral Collection Rose Ikat Bleu

The original 4711 is one of the Perhaps our favourite new 4711 – We have few excuses to get dressed earliest scents that can still be because who doesn’t love the rose? up, right now – but we can still enjoy enjoyed today: a true Cologne, – this offers the most sparkling when our fragrances gets an haute created in the city that gives its opening, with cool notes of mandarin, couture outfit. Giorgio Armani’s latest name to this entire style of bergamot and green tea. Dewy, pair have been designed in homage to fragrance. Anyone who loves it will romantic rosiness is certainly apparent, the ancient Indonesian dyeing surely be thrilled by the news that here, but expect touches of cyclamen technique of ikat. Ikat Bleu’s mood is the much-loved fresh scent has and freesia, with musk and Oriental-spicy, first tempting us with been given three new ‘twists’, with sandalwood again featuring in the spicily fresh bergamot and pink subtle floral flourishes making for a dry-down. We’re thrilled that the folks pepper, embroidered with iris and more feminine juice – here, at 4711 haven’t messed with the iconic patchouli that ultimately give way to garlanded with white flowers and a flacon, for this line-up – though Bourbon vanilla and guaiac wood. Just touch of velvety tonka. they’ve added a spray for easy misting. 1300 pieces exist, worldwide. £18 for 100ml eau de Cologne £18 for 100ml eau de Cologne £565 for 100ml eau de parfum boots.com boots.com harrods.com

ARMANI/PRIVÉ BENTLEY BEYOND THE BRITNEY SPEARS COLLECTION Ikat Rouge Radiant Osmanthus Festive Fantasy

Given the budget, wouldn’t these Continuing their celebration of We know many collectors of Britney make for a striking pair on the feminine fragrances that evoke the Spears’s fragrances (see blogger Sarah dressing table? (Worth redecorating excitement of world-travel, the Major’s ‘Share My Stash’, in our Issue the bedroom around, we propose.) It osmanthus here truly is radiant – 41) – and this vibrant flacon is destined isn’t just the numbered bottle that’s an orange blossom and succulent peach for the limelight on their dressing Oriental-amber masterpiece here, a fragrant choir of fruitiness amidst tables. It is, we are told, Britney’s though, but the scent inside, created glowing jasmine, sheer amber, smooth invitation to ‘Live to celebrate life!’ by Annick Menardo. Shot through with sandalwood and fluffy musk. We shall (definitely our motto for 2021). a bergamot shaft of sunlight, she’s wrap ourselves in this and dream of Lusciously feminine, the line-up of woven through elements of incense sunnier days, of being frivolous again notes includes cherry, plum, dewberry, and resinous cistus labdanum, warmed and relishing every single adventure. star gazer lily, freesia, sugar musk, by amber, and deepened, memorably, Joyful mood-enhancement to wear at sandalwood and a vanilla beignet by meditative accords of guaiac wood. any time. accord (it’s a deep-fried dumpling, FYI). £565 for 100ml eau de parfum £165 for 100ml eau de parfum £35 for 100ml

ALL STOCKISTS CHECKED AT TIME OF PRESS BUT DUE TO COVID-19 CHALLENGES THESE MAY BE SUBJECT TO CHANGE TO BE SUBJECT THESE MAY CHALLENGES COVID-19 TO DUE TIME OF PRESS BUT AT CHECKED STOCKISTS ALL harrods.com shop.bentleymotors.com superdrug.com

THE scented LETTER 53 BYREDO CAROLINA HERRERA CLIVE CHRISTIAN Tobacco Mandarin CH Beauties Limited Edition Crown Collection Crab Apple Blossom

New to BYREDO’s Night Veils Dressed in sunshine yellow, Once upon a time, a blossoming crab collection, you’ll be hurrying to emblazoned with butterflies, this apple tree stood outside the Kensington disrobe and drape yourself in this bottle could hardly be jollier (or more headquarters of Crown Perfumery – interplay of citrus and spice. Sparkling collectable), perfectly expressing the the chosen perfume house of British mandarin’s immediately shot through characteristics of the fragrance inside. royalty – which Clive Christian rescued with the deeper sizzle of cumin and A whoosh of crisp pear and mandarin from being lost to history. Now, the coriander. This particular combination – the fruit of the moment in the scent house pays homage to the original always puts us in mind of skin that’s world – gives way to a joyous 1886 scent. Celebrating their unique slightly sweaty from salacious entanglement of neroli, jasmine and heritage, the spring blossom is shenanigans, enhanced by the creamy peony in the heart notes. As it warms dressed in modern finery, with a salty leather that swathes the heart. Then on the skin, amber, sandalwood and marine bergamot accord atop fizzy tobacco and labdanum swirl the base vanilla plump the base – a pillowy rhubarb and matured sandalwood. in a smoky hit that seals the deal. landing, having fluttered so prettily. Gloriously evocative of sunny days. £235 for 50ml extrait de parfum £92 for 100ml eau de parfum £325 for 50ml eau de parfum byredo.com harrods.com clivechristian.com

CONNOCK LONDON ERMANNO SCERVINO GUERLAIN Kukui Noir Tuscan Emotion L’heure Blanche

A long-awaited follow-up fragrance This second signature scent from the A positively celestial and very special from Connock London, whose design house echoes one of their white bee bottle, here – there are 1888 original bestselling Kukui seduces made-to-measure dresses, draping the pieces, worldwide – for an utterly with a whisk-you-to-the-tropics white skin in layers of transparent green celestial fragrance by Delphine Jelk, floralcy. If Kukui is sun-drenched notes and the fresher side of peony. who was drawn to materials that days, this is steamy nights: an Perfumer Natalie Cetto-Gracia would evoke the colour white: milky elegant encounter with notes of caresses a restrained citrus opening to notes, iris, musk. Inspired by an rose, sandalwood, jasmine and reveal juicy pear, before enveloping exhibition at Guerlain’s Parisian patchouli, skin-warmed to reveal the floral heart with a scattering of flagship by French plastic artist notes of oudh and black amber. They rose, ending with a cool jasmine tea Claudine Drai, it brings to life ‘the recommend it ‘anytime you want to granita. Effortless Euro-chic, we white hour’ – the perfect counterpoint up the glamour level a little.’ Which wistfully picture Tuscan terraces as the to l’heure bleue, or twilight, famously is most of the time, these days. setting for romantic canoodlings. and classically captured by Guerlain. £45 for 30ml eau de parfum £70 for 50ml eau de parfum £490 for 125ml eau de parfum connocklondon.co.uk fragrancedirect.co.uk harrods.com

54 THE scented LETTER GUERLAIN JEROBOAM JO MALONE LONDON Shalimar Philtre de Parfum Gozo Midnight Musk & Amber

Shalimar-lovers, be reassured that Jeroboam have strayed from their Especially for Christmas 2020, Jo Thierry Wasser has faithfully usual black bottles, with this ker-pow Malone London bring us a dazzling, maintained the unique spirit of your orange. It was born of a meeting crystalline bottle containing a seasonal fragrance here, creating something between Jovoy’s globetrotting founder fragrance in which warm, sensual that is definitively Shalimar – but if François Hénin and Qatari social amber slow-dances with a sexy anything, even more so. He masterfully media megastar and A-list perfumista, midnight musk accord. It actually highlights the velvety facets of iris and Abdulaziz Al Ajail. As ever with opens with a fast-tempo green accord vanilla, adding a ‘fresh flight’ of Jeroboam, perfumer Vanina of juicy mandarin, but develops a bergamot and lavender and an Muracciole translated the vision into smoochy second-skin warmth as the aromatic lavender edge. It’s as rich, scent, swirling together a heady cloud soft, powdery musks and amber pulse sensual and long-lasting on the skin as of tuberose, cedarwood and on your skin. And oh, that luminous, ever, with a single drop still perfuming Ambroxan to evoke ‘heaven on earth’ faceted, dressing table-worthy bottle our pulse-points, next morning. – the Maltese island of Gozo. – pure Roaring Twenties glamour. From £81 for 50ml eau de parfum £100 for 30ml eau de parfum £105 for 100ml Cologne guerlain.com jovoyparis.co.uk jomalone.co.uk

J.U.S KILIAN LES INDEMODABLES Sexycrush Gold Edition Roses On Ice Vanille Havane

Fervent fans of this hypnotic scent will It’s all about the decadent glass scent Antoine Lie collaborated with founder, be in raptures over this pure parfum decanter, for Christmas 2020 – a Valerie Pulverail, using natural vanilla edition, exclusive to Harrods, suitably bottle trend we’re happy to raise a to create a contemporary gourmand presented in a gold flacon. Those of glass to, especially when it showcases that’s darkly sensual rather than overtly you yet to try, meanwhile, should rush a stunner like this first-time sweet – and is outrageously addictive. to wrap yourselves in perfumer Aliénor collaboration with perfumer Franck Seeking to explore every nuance of Massenet’s sumptuous composition Voelkl. Kilian ask: ‘Anyone for notes vanilla, Lie says he ‘pushed the rum, – luscious rose, oudh and vanilla of gin, distilled with rose and cocoa, spices – clove, cinnamon, entwined with rippled ribbons of cucumber?’ A rhetorical question, as cardamom’ elements of the bean, labdanum. Wearing this is a gift to we enjoy the icy freshness of juniper ramping up ‘the tobacco, woods, floral your skin, and to anyone lucky to stand berries, contrasting with the velvety and leathery facets’ until even close enough to float on your warmth of rosa Centifolia, musk and gourmand naysayers will be begging: fabulously fragrant trail. sandalwood. Chin, chin! ‘Please, sir, can I have some more…?’ £165 for 100ml parfum From £165 for 50ml parfum £186 for 50ml eau de parfum harrods.com bykilian.co.uk lessenteurs.com

THE scented LETTER 55 MAISON CRIVELLI MAISON SYBARITE MOLTON BROWN Iris Malikhân Bed of Roses Juniper Jazz

What we all need now is a massive Sybaris was an ancient city founded in While Juniper Jazz’s box is dressed hug. And if there is one ingredient 720BC, famed for its hedonistic up Art Deco-style, the bottle itself has that enfolds you in its arms, it is inhabitants, who slept on beds of rose a holographic shimmer that is very powdery iris. Here, it wraps its arms petals, apparently insisting on fresh ‘now’. Launched as a limited edition, around cypress, leather, amber, roses every night. (Quite right, too). we are sincerely hoping that this does musks, vanilla and a surprisingly Today, ‘Sybarite’ refers to persons not do a Cinderella-esque vanishing animalic note of mimosa, confected given to self-indulgence and luxury act on us – we’re so taken with the to create ‘the mind-blowing discovery – something else we can get behind, contrast of fascinating metallic of iris fields on the edge of a desert.’ along with anointing ourselves in this molecules, softened by warm, musky (Imaginary, but we’re right there, sumptuous scent. Roses rest on woods and patchouli. In the unlikely thanks to this shimmering mirage of a powdery orris, electrified with spicy event of any dancing on tabletops scent, from this exciting, new-to-the- sparks and tolu balm, hints of this party season, expect us to be UK perfume name.) lasciviousness belying the freshness. wearing this. £75 for 30ml eau de parfum £160 for 75ml eau de parfum £85 for 100ml eau de toilette johnlewis.com bloomperfume.co.uk moltonbrown.co.uk

NASSOMATO OJAR PACO RABANNE Fantomas Red Redemption Olympéa Onyx Collector

Mysterious as ever – this cult house A tingle of pink pepper infuses We’ve always loved the feel of the reveals as little as possible about their blood orange before a mellow haze Olympéa bottle, with its sculptural fragrances – and intriguingly fruity; of oakmoss rises to greet the shape a nod to Ancient Greece. But wearing it feels akin to eating softness of rose, encircled by white we’ve loving this limited edition honeydew melon on a clifftop walk, amber and swathed in patchouli. As incarnation, the cap fashioned to look suddenly enclosed in milky fog. Balmy, shady vetiver kisses the base of like black marble shot through with skin-like woodiness descends to white musk and vanilla, you’ll be copper veining and a sun-setting-over- something altogether more animalic entranced. Calling on the brand’s the-Aegean ombré rose gradient, on – an invitation to edge toward it, Middle Eastern heritage, its 18 the glass itself. Inside? Those familiar thrilling as you get ever closer to the glorious perfume oils, in all, are notes of mandarin, ginger lily, jasmine, source of the snarl. Like starring in long-lasting yet close to the skin, salted vanilla, ambergris and your very own scented film noir, it’s an cloaking the wearer in a scented veil sandalwood – a composition deserving esoteric fragrant embrace. rather than filling a room. of its copper laurel wreath adornment. £124 for 30ml eau de parfum £130 for 30ml absolute £82.50 for 30ml eau de toilette libertylondon.com harrods.com pacorabanne.com

56 THE scented LETTER PLAYBOY SKANDINAVISK SKANDINAVISK Make The Cover for Her Kapitel 12 Freedom To Roam Kapitel 4 Island Solitude

With an ethos of ‘anyone can make We’ve come to love the great For their second shareable eau de the cover’, this bright fragrance outdoors more than ever over the toilette, Skandinavisk send sea breezes beams with cheekiness – Givaudan course of 2020 – catching up with our gusting through gnarled crab apple, perfumers Roxanne Kirkpatrick and Scandinavian contemporaries, here. dog rose and moss. This marine floral Louise Turner gilding the juiciness of Now Skandinavisk, a much-loved bath, is as romantic as their description of ripe peach and pineapple with a body and candle name, set out to ‘exploring glittering Scandinavian quick floral lick of sheer rose, capture that spirit of wilderness with a waterways under sail, of archipelagos transparent lily of the valley and debut trio of scents. First up: Freedom akin to giant’s stepping stones, luminescent jasmine. Drying to a to Roam reflects an ancient Scandinavian navigating with no fixed destination, smooth, woody base and a hint of law which invites exploration and and encountering rocky shadows to skin-warmed creaminess, it’s a flirty adventure, imagining heather-line escape upon.’ At a time when travel’s little number full of happy confidence trails above the tree line via notes of so tricky, we are thankful to escape on – easy to wear any time. wild berries, herbs and woods. scent’s magic carpet, instead. £22 for 50ml eau de toilette £45 for 50ml eau de toilette £45 for 50ml eau de toilette superdrug.com skandinavisk.com skandinavisk.com

SKANDINAVISK SERGE LUTENS STORIE VENEZIANE BY Kapitel 17 Remote Refrain Tarab VALMONT Mica d’Oro 1

We are soothed by the very names Exclusive to Harrods is this gilded Valmont’s co-founder Sophie Guillon of these Scandi scents, never mind flacon showcasing Serge Lutens’s tells us that this latest Murano the aromas themselves. Remote enigmatic latest; the pleasing shape glass-masked fragrance ‘celebrates Refrain is ‘written as a sonnet to echoes the very first bottles Lutens hedonism, extols excess, flirts fresh pear, its delicate white flowers ever launched in Paris’s Palais-Royal, dangerously with lust… We designed and the subtle honey scent of their essentially kickstarting the whole trend this extract with an ardent spirit, driven pollen, carefully wrapped inside the for niche perfume. Taking its name by exhilaration, a sense of addiction to sensory amphitheatre of fjordland from the Arabic word tarab, referring the intensity that once surged through and accented by the water reverb of to the trance-like state in which the the Casino del Ridotto in Venice.’ Inside, its surrounding falls.’ A scent to body is ‘lost in dance’, the Chypre Nathalie Lorson’s juice is an indulgent induce visions of spring blossoms in construction swirls and twirls hypnotically gourmand-Oriental cocktail of rum, ancient orchards and the joys of with elements of cypriol, Turkish rose Chantilly cream and vanilla that has us simple pleasures. and oudh. Dizzyingly gorgeous. coming back for seconds. And thirds. £45 for 50ml eau de toilette £300 for 75ml eau de parfum £451 for 100ml eau de parfum skandinavisk.com harrods.com lamaisonvalmont.com

THE scented LETTER 57 THOO TOM FORD VERSACE ATELIER Up To The Moon Bitter Peach Versace Éclat de Rose

An olfactory ode to the synergy of Don’t be put off by the name. (When Here, we encounter the Moroccan voice and spirit, Up to the Moon is did Mr. Ford ever let us down?) This Centifolia rose at dawn, delicately inspired by the perfectly rounded is a welcome reminder of summer’s hand-picked before the sun spoils the soprano tones of Georgian opera joys, luscious with Sicilian blood petals. Feeling tenderly draped in a singer, Nino Machaidze. Refreshing orange, the signature pêche de vigne dewy mist, it slowly unfurls to the raspberry floods the senses, vibrating (peaches on the vine) accord and a warmth of Ambrox – a shimmering with crisp pear, a caress of rose and dash of cardamom in the opening, sunrise comprising amber, hazy jasmine, held aloft in a sensual cocoon beckoning us towards a boozy incense, smooth wood, a nuzzle of of amber, ambrette and rich vanilla. afternoon with rum, cognac, davana tobacco and billowy musk. Embodying Charismatically captivating, the fruity oil and jasmine absolute, in time to the Atelier Versace ethos of exquisite vitality and warm longevity make this a enjoy a golden sunset moment with workmanship and attention to detail, scent show that’s bound to garner a sandalwood, benzoin, vanilla, tonka the range deserves to be fully standing ovation. and patchouli. Sigh. explored. Here’s a great place to start. £190 for 75ml eau de parfum £228 for 50ml eau de partum £320 for 100ml eau de parfum ab-presents.co.uk harveynichols.com versace.com

VINES HOUSE PARFUM YARDLEY LONDON YSL Love Story English Daisy Black Opium Storm Illusion

This romantic tale begins softly, Sometimes you just want to wear Black Opium is clearly going for draping innocent violet leaf in a veil of something that makes you feel like collector status here, with this bottle powder, trickling with plump raspberry you’ve rushed out into the sunshine, for the seductive ‘rock couture’ juice and adding a frisson of pink run to the garden and flung yourself fragrance. The coffee-powered eau de pepper to set your senses tingling. As on the lawn to roll in the daisies – parfum is unchanged, but emblazoned the chapters unfurl on your skin, the and here’s the scent to spritz when here with a shimmering lightning bolt passion grows – a stunning floral heart you need to capture that feeling. of black, pink and silver that will get of Damask rose, jasmine and geranium Green apples and dewdrops on the party started – even if it’s just you, throbbing to the spicy-sweet leaves giggle into uplifting hyacinth a cocktail or two, and the fragrance’s undercurrents of cinnamon, clove, and white rose, before warming to a caffeinated jolt of black coffee, saffron and tonka. At once intriguing comforting embrace of sandalwood bergamot, orange blossom, jasmine and bewitching, it’s a ‘happily ever and musk. Memories of spring sambac, vanilla and white musk. Grab after’ affair. picnics, bottled. the limited edition while you can. £100 for 50ml eau de parfum £20 for 50ml eau de toilette £78 for 50ml eau de parfum vhparfum.com yardleylondon.co.uk yslbeauty.co.uk

58 THE scented LETTER THE MEN’S ROOM

ÅND FRAGRANCE ATELIER MATERI BENTLEY FOR MEN Frånk Peau d’Ambrette Silverlake

Instead of the usual ‘dark, churchy With an ethos of inspecting an As we’ve lately abandoned dusty incense and smells of a dodgy ingredient from every angle – born out boardrooms for bedrooms (or front pipe smoking priest’s frayed robes,’ as of founder, Véronique Le Bihan’s rooms/kitchen tables/wherever we can Ånd Fragrance wittily put it, the architectural background – here the #WFH), this launch feels pertinent surprisingly fresh side of frankincense ambrette seed is coaxed to behave indeed, inspired by escaping the city is explored here. Directly sourced almost fruitily, encouraged by the and driving to the mountains. Iced frankincense resin has been lovingly mandarin and ginger. The floralcy of lemon and peppermint shiver harvested by at least 20 generations of amyris is supported by Ambroxan and delightedly to foresty, verdant violet families who supply this ingredient, spiced sandalwood; delicately leaf, with sheer lavender evoking the but more recently though a deadly captivating, it’s perhaps the most silvery sheen of a distant lake. Finally, combination of drought and economic ‘masculine’ of the unisex range, but the amber-rich base of musky woods pressures have pushed trees to the edge they’re so skilfully nuanced you’ll want makes us want to roll the window of extinction. A true feel-good scent. to take a turn around each. down and whoop, joyously. £35 for 10ml parfum £195 for 100ml eau de parfum £69.50 for 100ml eau de parfum andfragrance.com libertylondon.com bentleymotors.com

CREED CAROLINA HERRERA CONTRADICTIONS IN ILK Aventus 10th Anniversary CH Beasts Virtuous Limited Edition

Stalking stealthily through an Transported to the Tuscan countryside Celebrating a decade of the iconic, imagined garden, this magnificent via an aromatic herb garden, this blockbusting men’s fragrance, for the beast is a limited edition, so you’d personality-led house invites you to first time, Creed offer a stunning best catch it while you can. Wrapped ‘follow in the shadow of a Carthusian special edition. We know there are in green velvet and snarling slightly, monk.’ Contrasting scentscapes of millions of fans – and with good the dewy violet leaves and aromatic fir dewy leaves and incense-infused reason: it’s a vibrantly sensual balsam evoke nature freshly drenched leather books are linked via oakwood explosion of pineapple, perfectly from a rainfall. But it’s the dry-down we and moss for a spiritually uplifting balanced with florals, spices, citrus love best: speckles of black pepper experience. But wait; don’t be bound fruits and woody notes – and this dusting the Cashmeran, labdanum by one ‘type’. Explore your less than so-collectable bottle should definitely and vanilla base – a provocative purr pure side by layering with Ilk’s adorn your dens. For mega-fans it’s a that begs to be nuzzled but hints at passionate Libertine scent – or any of must-buy – and for those yet to dangerous consequences. the six others waiting to tempt you. experience it? Get set to stun! £72 for 100ml eau de parfum £118 for 50ml eau de parfum £280 for 100ml eau de parfum harrods.com ilkperfume.com creedfragrances.co.uk

THE scented LETTER 59 THE MEN’S ROOM

KILIAN LABORATORIO OLFATTIVO LACOSTE Angel’s Share Tonkade Match Point

Kilian Hennessy maintains that he is We’re delighted to showcase this in Never mind Match Point; this is game, introducing a new fragrance family our latest men’s collection, The Super set and match to Lacoste for a here – which he should label ‘boozy’, Man Box (launch 4th December): a thrillingly fresh aromatic creation that as a reflection of its intoxicating stunner from the perfume house’s pitches two poised accords against qualities. Perfumer Benoist Lapouza Nero collection, with an unusual each other. In the opening game, takes a jigger of cognac essence, adds opening of Christmassy dried fruits, enjoy the green, exhilarating energy of oak absolute (an echo of the barrels neroli, tonka and cardamom leading basil and gentian, with an intriguing themselves), spiced by cinnamon to a crescendo of warm woods, yet subtle bitter edge. But ultimately, essence, tonka bean, praline and patchouli and soft vanilla, which as with all fragrances, it’s the base vanilla. Fragrance family-wise, we’d positively bursts out of the chic, notes which win through – here, the position this hovering between moody bottle. Then as the pace slows composed, calm elegance of vetiver, Oriental and gourmand – but we’re again, enjoy a smoky-sweet base smoothed by Cashmeran. Trophy- certain of its irresistibility. accord that swirls with soft musks. worthy, this one. From £165 for 50ml parfum From £110 for 100ml eau de parfum From £35 for 30ml eau de toilette bykilian.co.uk laboratorioolfattivo.com lookfantastic.com

MAISON SYBARITE OFFICINE UNIVERSELLE BULY OFFICINE UNIVERSELLE BULY Spicy Calabria Eau Triple Forêt de Komi Eau Triple Oud de Medine

Celebrating the citrus notes Calabria Quite what the secret of Parisian A second new Eau Triple, from Buly. is famed for, juicy ginger and black apothecary/perfume house Buly’s Eau (Whose stores, by the way, as and pepper add to the zing-appeal here Triple water-based scents is, we long when we can freely travel again, are while powdery orris cushions the to know, for they have all the magic of worth putting on your perfume bucket decadently wormwood-rippled base. an alcohol-based scent, and plenty of list.) Here, saffron – also known as ‘red Cedar adds a grounding note of staying power. Here, woods and gold’ – is showcased alongside oudh, contemplation, limette thrumming minerals are melded together with a pair of ingredients chosen to conjure with woody oudh and patchouli. All sage, cardamom, basil, violet and up the legendary Silk Road that their fragrances are alcohol-free lavender, to evoke an imaginary walk snaked through Isfahan, Cairo, moisturising mists – created from in the Komi forest in Russia’s Ural Damascus and Samarkand. You’ll leave saponine, olive oil and water – leaving mountains. If this gender-neutral behind a sensual trail of patchouli, a sexy sheen the Sybarites would fragrance was a colour, it would be a sandalwood, amber and musk, in your surely have approved of! deep, shaded, mossy green. (or your camel’s?) wake. £160 for 75ml eau de parfum 130 euros for 75ml eau triple 130 euros for 75ml eau triple bloomperfume.co.uk buly1803.com buly1803.com

60 THE scented LETTER OJAR PACO RABANNE PARFUMS DE MARLY Forgiven Outrage Invictus Onyx Collector Pegasus Exclusif

First points go the name, a joy to We’re loving the limited-edition bottle When Pegasus first launched, it repeat when someone asks what – a stunning black stone effect shot became an instant success – the kind you’re wearing (and they will, if you through with metal, looking for all the of cult fragrance perfumistas nodded allow them that close). Second, to the (under)world like something that in quiet appreciation of, while passing dual-purpose bottle, which can be a deserves a place on the mantlepiece, a fellow fragrance lover. Returning with roll-on or used with a dabber, also never mind the bathroom shelf. It truly a twist, Pegasus now rides again as an supplied. Thirdly – and most reflects the juice, too – the marine Exclusif version. Retaining two of the importantly – it smells divine. Imagine accord, laurel leaf, ambergris and most characteristic ingredients found the scent of incense from a Japanese grapefruit zest echo glints of silver in the original – bitter almond and kodo ceremony – a trail of cardamom- amidst a darkly glowering guaiac vanilla – the warmth of guaiac wood speckled smoke twisted with freesias wood patchouli base that positively and natural oudh radiates further when and ylang ylang, grounded by guaiac pulses with power. Seductive and contrasted with the zingy opening of wood – and relax. enigmatically intriguing, in turn. bergamot and pink pepper. £135 for 20ml absolute £69 for 100ml eau de toilette £160 for 75ml eau de parfum harrods.com pacorabanne.com harveynichols.com

PERFUMER H PLAYBOY THOO Salt Make The Cover For Him Get The Feeling

Gusty walks on wind-whipped dunes, ‘Anyone can land the coveted front Created for Italian baritone Guido breathing the freshest imaginable air. cover’, proclaims Playboy’s inclusive Loconsolo, perfumer Maurizio Cerizza Lyn Harris weaves wild herbal notes of advertising campaign for their new sought to echo his deeply virile voice rosemary, white sage and coriander fragrances. This juice is fun – a crisp, with this, which has been composed with angelica seed and cardamom, green apple further quenched by specifically to ‘reach straight for the with the earthiness of patchouli and bergamot’s freshness, lavishly splashed heart’ . Ginger tingles through citrus oakmoss mellowed by orris. An with lavandin water, fruit accord and before the voluptuous heart vibrates interesting ‘fresh Chypre’, aromatic yet wrapped in violet leaves. The flourish with aromatic davana, coriander and sexy at the same time. If you opt for of tonka bean, amber wood and cardamom. A soothing harmony of the ultramarine £400 handblown glass patchouli will have you saying ‘hello, chamomile and angelica root signals flacon (above), showcasing 100ml of handsome!’ to the mirror (or perhaps the grand finale: a thrum of patchouli eau de parfum, we know you’ll want to to the reflective box which showcases resonating with juniper berries, showcase it forever. the scent). ambrette and precious woods. Bravo! From £150 for 50ml eau de parfum £29 for 100ml eau de toilette £190 for 75ml eau de parfum perfumerh.com superdrug.com ab-presents.co.uk

THE scented LETTER 61 IT TAKES ME RIGHT BACK

THE MONSOON in India is a official residence of the DM. There phenomenon everyone should was a large central courtyard with experience at least once in their massive pillars adorning the verandah lifetime, just as one would the that ran around it. Every summer the “Northern Lights. Having lived in housekeeper was tasked with dusting Britain for the last 20 years, I consider off the vetiver blinds – massive roll- myself an oddity – someone who up blinds of woven vetiver grass loves the tumultuous weather. As a measuring several meters in height ‘pluviophile’, rain in any form brings and width. Every afternoon, the blinds joy to my heart, but the intoxication would be rolled down and sprayed of the monsoon back home is heavily with water, saturating the incomparable. The storm clouds, vetiver and setting up a crude air though dark and moody, are anything conditioning system for the bungalow but melancholic. The atmosphere is as the hot summer air would pass at once uplifting and contemplative, through the blinds, cooling down with joyous with the electric promise of the water and picking up the scent of life. There is nothing else vetiver as it then circulated that exists but the wall of through the halls. rain thrashing the earth, a This olfactory bliss wrath unleashed upon the would often be coupled ground by the deity Indra. with a chilled glass of The summer leading up khus sharbat, a refreshing to the monsoon, on the drink of neon green other hand, is terrifying and PratapVetiver Chahal – a.k.a. ‘That Hungry vetiver syrup, water, ice incapacitating. I grew up and lime juice. On special in the Central Indian city of Chef’ – is whisked to rainy India by occasions, vats of thandai, Bhopal where the mercury a cooling drink of almonds, would hit 46C. Each room the scent of this fragrant grass fennel seeds, watermelon in our house had its own kernels, rosepetals, water cooler, but the one in pepper, vetiver, cardamom, our living room was the one I would spend saffron, milk and sugar would be prepared. Pratap the afternoon in front of. It was a beast of a This was always a special treat and my as a machine, five feet tall and three feet wide small consumption was severely limited as drinking with a water tank that had a little secret: its boy too much often resulted in a sore throat internal walls were lined with vetiver. and a cold thanks to its efficient cooling Vetiver, or khus as it is known in Hindi, is a properties. tall, tufted grass grown mainly for its fragrant The scent of vetiver always made root and shoots. It’s also synonymous with summers bearable, paving the way for the the summer across India, used for its cooling oncoming monsoons and with them, the effect in aromatherapy, a flavouring in food heady aroma of the parched earth releasing and drink and a scent. At first it smells damp, petrichor as the first rains signalled the earthy, woody and delicately smoky with end of summer. Petrichor, or geosmin, is a lingering aroma of cut grass and hints the signature smell of the earth after rain of an alluring perfume. It is the scent of waterfalls and wet – damp, musty, wet, musky and dusty, bringing together mud dancing with sunshine and flowers. It’s what happens baked mud, stone and water, signalling life and fertility when a hessian sack full of potatoes romances vanilla, after a blistering summer. lemon, beetroot and spices. It is what gives you hope in the And so it would repeat, year after year, a childhood, torturous heat of an Indian summer, a hope that brings with adolescence and young adulthood spent basking and it the dark clouds of the monsoon season. soaking in the dizzying aroma of vetiver and petrichor. I first fell in love with vetiver as a four-year-old. My mum, These are the aromas I would later seek out to incorporate a civil servant, was District Magistrate of Sehore (a small into my passion for flavour and in the fragrances I wear, in municipality in the state of Madhya Pradesh, Central India) a distant land far away from the burning summers where we lived in a gargantuan colonial bungalow, the and the thundering monsoons of my youth. “ It is the scent of waterfalls and wet mud ” dancing with sunshine and flowers”

62 THE scented LETTER

Celebrating timeless beauty and old-world European charm, TOCCA invites you to indulge and Love Yourself.

Available at stockists Fenwick, Harvey Nichols, Liberty and LOOKFANTASTIC.