Quick viewing(Text Mode)

Behind the Scenes

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 622

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS Brett Atkinson Many thanks to the travellers who used the Terima kasih to a whole cast of characters who last edition and wrote to us with helpful assisted me on this trip. In Kota Bharu, cheers hints, useful advice and interesting an- to Zeck and Bob, and on the Perhentian islands, ecdotes: A Adelien Vandeweghe, Ali Thorn, thank you to Neil, Shauna – especially for the Ankur Agarwal, Anne & David Brock, Anouk van scissors – Raymond and Seh Ling. In Kuala Lammeren B Bas Zeper C Christopher Moore , many thanks to Alex and Maslina D Dave Krantz E Eamon McCann, Erik Eskin for the company and conversation. Thanks to F Frank Genghis J Jan Timmermans, Jan van Sarah Reid and the wider editorial and cartog- den Heuij, John Bone, Jurgen Bruyninx K Karri raphy team, and final thanks to Carol and my Viitala & Maiju Monto M Marcus Feaver, Mark family back home in Selandia Baru. Cohen, Melissa & Dominic Pepper O Oscar Page P Peter Daemen R Remko Donga, Roger Greg Benchwick Lewis S Samuel Wainstein, Sapideh Gilani, Huge thanks to my Destination Editor Sarah Soren Braun, Stéphanie Visser T Tarsis Arroo for putting her faith in me on this project (my W Wilfried Vancraeynest first in the region). The people of are super friendly. I really want to thank Joe at the Kuantan Visitor Center, and the entire crew of AUTHOR THANKS rip-roarious irregulars at EcoBar in Cherating. Isabel Albiston And first and always, thank you my darling Thanks to everyone who helped out along the Violeta for making my life so rich. Love, Daddy. way, especially Narelle McMurtrie, Mrs Lee, Stephen Baya and Tine Hjetting, Mado in Pa Cristian Bonetto Lungan, Dina Bailey, Chongteah Lim, Leslie A heartfelt thankyou to Helen Burge, Craig Chiang, Anthony Chieng, Polycarp Teo Sebum Bradbery, Honey Lee, Carolyn Ng, Sharon Vu, and Louise, Jacqueline Fong and Jo-Lynn Liao. Myra Tan, Andy Yeo, Michelle Chua, Richie Cheers also to Stefan Arestis and Sebastien Raupe, Seb Neylan, Stephane Hasselsweiler Chaneac for making me laugh and to my and Dean Brettschneider. Many thanks also friends and family for their love and support. to my patient, supportive family and to Sarah Lastly, huge thanks to Sarah and Simon. Reid for the commission. 623 Austin Bush Simon Richmond Thanks to the kind folks on the ground in Terima kasih to the following: Nozara Yusof, Malaysia and abroad including Joann Khaw, Alex Yong, Andrew Sebastian, Narelle Mc- Bee Yinn Low, Narelle McMurtrie, Chris Murtrie, Gregers Reimann and Scott Dunn. Ong, Wanida Razali, Khoo Salma and Ernest Zacharevic. Richard Waters

Sincere thanks to Eljer for his patience and SCENES THE BEHIND Anita Isalska skill, Daniken for keeping my dinner warm, My research was much richer thanks to Mr Diana without whose help much of this trip David at Sekeping Kong Heng, Noor Rashiela would have been so much harder, Arwen, Binti Mohd Salleh and the Tourism Malay- Walter and staff, Kurt (easily the best wildlife sia team, Steve Khong, Shaukani Abbas, guide in 15 years’ travel writing), Mr Reward K Rajasegaran, Jek Yap, Jay and the Father’s and brother James Bond, tireless Bobby who Guesthouse crew. Big thanks to Seow Wei braved the mudslides and aftershocks to take Tang and family for tips and karaoke, and me to Mt K, Charlie and Jess for all their fab- Simon Richmond for thoughtful guidance. ulous help, Brodie, Emma and Sadie for their Nora, who gave me cola when I was slipping lovely co, Jan for his hospitality and Ellen for unconscious with Jerantut nausea, danke. her reef, Tom, Fanny and finally Carmalita, And Normal Matt, for KL rooftop cocktails Mr Robin and May at Tourism for their and boundless cheer. fantastic support. Robert Scott Kelly For this book, the dedications are simple. All ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS my love and thanks go to Tania Simonetti, Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, wife and companion on my most important Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- travels in this world, and to our infant son, ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Robin Francesco, born beautiful and healthy Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System on 20 July 2015, while this guidebook was Sciences, 11, 163344. taking shape. Cover photograph: Food market in Kota Bharu, Peter Adams/AWL © 624 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

Joshua Samuel Brown, Austin Rawlings, Fionnuala Twomey, THIS BOOK Bush, Adam Karlin and Daniel Simon Williamson This 13th edition of Lonely Robinson. This guidebook was Cartographer Michael Garrett produced by the following: Planet’s Malaysia, Assisting Book Designer & guidebook was re- Destination Editor Sarah Reid Wibowo Rusli searched and written by Isabel Product Editors Kathryn Cover Researcher Albiston, Brett Atkinson, Greg Rowan, Elizabeth Jones Naomi Parker Benchwick, Cristian Bonetto, Senior Cartographer Julie Anita Banh, Car- Austin Bush, Anita Isalska, Thanks to Sheridan olyn Boicos, Grace Dobell, Robert Scott Kelly, Simon Mazzy Prinsep Ryan Evans, Andi Jones, Anne Richmond and Richard Waters. Book Designer Mason, Kate Matthews, Jenna The previous edition was writ- Assisting Editors Sarah Myers, Wayne Murphy, Cath- ten by Simon Richmond, Cris- Bailey, Melanie Dankel, Carly erine Naghten, Karyn Noble, tian Bonetto, Celeste Brash, Hall, Gabrielle Innes, Rosie Ni- cholson, Charlotte Orr, Kirsten Vicky Smith, Lauren Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 625

Index

A Blue Mansion 159, 4-5 Batang Rejang 434-9 birdwatching 37, 110, 368, accommodation Clanhouses 165 bats 444, 523, 523 453 heritage hotels 173 George Town 159, 165, 18, 107-8, 18 Blue Mansion 159, 4-5 language 615-16 173 Batu Ferringhi 184-6 boat tours Malaysia 598-9 Peranakan Terrace Batu Maung 189 Bako National Park 416 Houses 509 Acheen St 163 Batu Punggul 16, 386 475 Putrajaya 113-14 activities 31-7, see also Bau 424-5 Putrajaya 113 217 individual activities beaches 321 Villa Sentosa 222 adventure tours Bako 35, 416 Wetlands area codes 21 National Park 419 Kota Kinabalu 320, 321 Coral Beach 143, 144 art Langkawi 199 Kuala Lipis 277, 278 Damai Central Beach 418 street 23-4, 65, Port Dickson 121 Pulau Langkawi 200 23 Pantai Pasir Hitam 196 arts 587-91 Similajau National Park air quality 594 Pantai Pasir Tengkorak 442 air travel 605, 606-7 Asian Civilisations 195 493 Ulu Temburong National airlines 606 Pasir Bogak 143 ATMs 601 Park 486 airports 605 Peranginan Pantai Muara Ayer Keroh 233 boat travel 606, 607 alcohol 40 474 boating 37 Alor Gajah 234 Pulau Gaya 332 books 562, 564 Alor Setar 208-12, Pulau Kapas 303 209 B border crossings 605 ambuyat 477 Ba Kelalan 464-5 Pulau Langkawi 192-7 Brunei 392, 451, 480 amusement parks Baba & Nyonya Heritage Pulau Mamutik 331 381, 412, 464 A’Famosa Resort 234 Museum 221 Pulau Manukan 331 Singapore 240 Berjaya Times Square Baba House 499-500 Pulau Perhentian 292- 211, 213, 289 Theme Park 67 Bako National Park 413-17 300, 293 60-3, 75, 90, Escape () 187 Balik Pulau 188 Pulau Sapi 331-2 98-9, 61 Legoland 237 Bandar 389-90, Pulau Satang 428-9 Brunei 48, 468-87 Oriental Village 193 390 Pulau Talang-Talang 429 accommodation 468, 487 Universal Studios 514-15 Bandar Seri Begawan 470- Pulau Tioman 251-60, climate 468 animals 6, 24, 32, 343, 82, 472 252 emergencies 487 423, 520-5, 593, see accommodation 476-7 Sentosa beaches 515 also individual species, activities 474-5 Similajau Beach 441 food 88, 468, 487 wildlife sanctuaries & drinking 479 Teluk Assam Beach 416 gay travellers 487 reserves, zoos entertainment 479 Teluk Bahang 186-8 highlights 469 Animism 585 holidays 487 food 477-9 Teluk Nipah 143, 144 apes, see orangutans legal matters 487 shopping 479-80 Beaufort 386 aquariums lesbian travellers 487 sights 470-4 Beaufort Division 386-8 Aquaria KLCC 59-60 money 487 tours 475-6 bedbugs 613 SEA Aquarium 513-14 tourist information 487 travel to/from 480-1 Belaga 438-9 architecture 22, 105, travel seasons 468 travel within 481-2 Belum-Temenggor 588, see also historic Rainforest 154-5 visas 487 buildings Bangar 484-5 bicycle tours 321, 403 170 Bangunan Sultan Ibrahim Bangsar Baru 75, 90-1, 94-5, budget 21 237 98-9, 91 people 579 Bario 458-62 Bidong Island 311 Bukit Larut 153-4 bars 93 Bintulu 439-41, 440 Bukit Nanas 75-6 Map Pages 000 Batang Ai Region 429-30 birds 523, see also bus travel 605, 607 Photo Pages 000 Batang Duri 485-6 individual species business hours 602 626 butterflies 527, 526 Heritage Centre Pulau Sipadan 374 etiquette 42 Penang Butterfly Farm 500 Pulau Tioman 252-3, 255 hawker stalls 177, 326 187 25, 168 responsible travel 36 laksa Balik Pulau 188 Butterworth 158, 182 Chinese people 576-7 Semporna Archipelago Penang cuisine 178 Chinese religions 583-4 372-4 street 11, 151, 326 63-5 Seribuat Archipelago 245 C tours 67 INDEX INDEX cakes 407 churches & cathedrals Tip of Borneo 346 Forestry Research Institute 12, All Saints’ Church 149-50 weather 36 of Malaysia (FRIM) 108-9 134-41, 135, 138, 7, 12 Holy Name of Jesus wreck 391

B- Catholic Church 188 forts  accommodation 137-40 drama 588

G St Andrew’s Cathedral Fort Canning Park 497  food 140-1 drinking water 611 497 165 sights 135-7 drinks 40 St Michael’s & All Angels Kota Kuala 212 tourist information 141 tea 140, 180, 543 Church 351 Fraser’s Hill (Bukit Fraser) tours 137 St Thomas’s Cathedral 110-13 travel to/from 141 402 E travel within 141 cinema 590-1 East Coast Islands 47, car travel 606, 607-8 clanhouses 165 292-304 G carbon emissions 594 climate 20, 25-6, 50, 393, accommodation 281 Gaharu Tea Valley 132 cats 403, 520, see also see also individual climate 281 galleries 23-4, see also individial species regions food 281 cave 129 consulates 600 highlights 282-3 Art & Garden by Fuan Wong 187 caves 454-5 courses travel seasons 281 Ernest Zacharevic x Batu Tulug 361 batik 258 Eastern & Oriental Hotel E&O 163 Fairy Cave 424 cooking 39, 67, 166-8, 172, 174 Galeri 60 Gomantong Caves 360 402, 518 economy 562-4 Gillman Barracks 513 Great Cave 443 language 67 electricity 599, 601 crafts 24, 590 Hin Bus Depot Art Gua Charas 265 elephants 523, 522 Centre 166 credit cards 601 Gua Kelam 213 embassies 600 ILHAM 59 Gua Tempurung 132 Crocker Range National emergencies 21 Park 384 Junglebluesdream Art Painted Cave 443 Endau 260 Gallery 460 crocodiles 441 Ramayana Cave 107-8 Endau-Rompin National Kampong Ayer Cultural Cave 107 culture 6, 22-3, 576-82 Park 247-9, 248 & Tourism Gallery 470 caving 35 currency 20 environment 592-6 Lostgens’ 57 cell phones 20, 603 customs regulations 599 hazards 611-13 MAP 66 cemeteries cycling 109, 607 etiquette 564 Melaka City 223 Bukit 222-3 food 42 National Gallery Singa- Chinese Cemetery D Eurasian people 578 pore 19, 492, 19 () 349-50 dance 588 exchange rates 21 National Visual Arts Commonwealth Allied dangers, see safety Expedition Robinson 245 Gallery 65 War Cemetery 150 Danum Valley Conservation State Art Gallery 210 Japanese Cemetery Area 366-9 Garama 388 F 350-1 579-8 gardens 24, see also farms 137 Makam Di Raja 121 Deepavali 26, 169 national parks, parks fax services 603 and reserves Protestant Cemetery 163 deforestation 592-3 ferry travel 208 Art & Garden by Fuan WWII Memorial (Labuan dengue fever 611 War Cemetery) 390 festivals & events 25-6, Wong 187 diarrhoea 611 Central 430-52 111, 577 Botanical Gardens 166 disabilities, travellers with Hindu 18 Gardens by the Bay 489, Cheah Kongsi 165 556, 603-4 Islamic festivals 584 492, 23 Cherating 265-8, 266 diving 11, 36, 391, 448, Thaipusam 585 Lake Gardens, the 119 children, travel with 68, 524, 11 film 562 Museum Garden 401 599 Bandar Seri Begawan health 613-14 474-5 fishing Orchid Garden 402 Chinatown () costs 36 Taman Negara 273-4 Perdana Botanical Garden 62 19, 51-7, 68-9, 75-6, 92, 344-5 flora & fauna 338 97, , Singapore Botanic 54-5 19 Kota Kinabalu 320, food 38-44, 79-88, 178, Gardens 504-5 321, 322 380, 461, 79-88 Taman Botani 113 Miri 448 ambuyat 477 Taman Tasik Taiping 149 Map Pages 000 Pulau Langkawi 199 blogs 76 Titiwangsa Lake Gardens Photo Pages 000 Pulau Perhentian 294-5 cooking courses 39, 67, 166-8, 402, 518 65 627 Tropical Spice Garden high tea 535 immigration 569 K 185 hiking 31-2, 33 Islam 567 Kadazan-Dusun people Gardens by the Bay 489, Bako National Park Mahathir, Mohamad 579-80 492, 23 415-16 571-2 Kampong Ayer 17, 470, 17 gay travellers 94, 554, 600 Cameron Highlands 136 Melaka Empire 566 Kampong Buli Sim Sim 351 Brunei 487 Endau-Rompin National Merdeka 570-1 Kampung Annah Rais

Genting Highlands 109-10 Park 248 Negrito people 565 420-1 INDEX George Town 12, 158-84, Forestry Research Portuguese rule 566 Kampung Baru 63-5, 74, 160-1, 12, 23 Institute of Malaysia Raffles, Stamford 568 89, 64 (FRIM) 109 -accommodation 169-75 WWII 352, 569-70 Kampung Benuk 420  G Fraser’s Hill (Bukit courses 166-8 Kampung Pulau Betong  K Fraser) 110-11 hitching 608 drinking & nightlife 189 guides 32 holidays 602 178-80 Kangar 212-13 Gunung Gading National Brunei 487 festivals & events 168-9 Kapalai 377 Park 426 Singapore 555 food 175-8 434-9, Kelabit Highlands 460 homestays 364 435 internet access 182 kayaking 36-7, 403, 460 Kubah National Park hornbills 523, 522-3 medical services 182 421-2, 423 horse riding 110 Kedah 46, 191-212, 191 money 182 Pulau Perhentian 295 hot springs accommodation 190 postal services 182 Pulau Tioman 253-4 Air Hangat 196 climate 190 shopping 180-1 safety 254 Poring Hot Springs 341-2 food 83, 190 sights 159-66 Santubong Peninsula hydroelectric dams 594-5 highlights 191 street art 167 418 history 191-2 tourist information 182 Similajau National Park kek lapis 407 tours 168 442 I Temple 170 Indian people 577-8 travel to/from 182-3 Sungai Kinabatangan Kelabit Highlands 15, influenza 611 travel within 183-4 362 458-65, 15 insect bites 612 walking tours 164, 164 Taman Negara 272-3 47, 284-92 insurance 600 George Town World weather 32 accommodation 281 internet access 600 Heritage Inc. Head­ Hinduism 584, 585 climate 281 quarters 159 internet resources 21 historic buildings food 85, 281 gibbons 520 Loke Mansion 63 125-32, 126-7 highlights 282-3 Golden Triangle 69-71, Malay College 148 accommodation 127-9 travel seasons 281 76-8, 93, 72-3 Old KL Train Station 62 activities 127 385 golf 110 Rumah Penghulu Abu drinking 130 Kenong Rimba State Park Gopeng 132-4 Seman 60 food 129-30, 131 278-9 Gua Charas 265 St Michael’s Institution sights 126-7 Kerangas 528 127 Gunung Bengoh 425 tourist information 130-1 165 historic sites Gunung Gading National travel to/from 131-2 Kinabalu National Park Park 426-7 Astana 402 travel within 132 333-41, 334, 339 Gunung Ledang National Batu Bersurat 143 Islam 583, 584 accommodation 338-40 Park 242 Old Court House Com- islands 24 climbing trails 335-8 Gunung Mulu National plex 396 itineraries 27-30 food 340 Park 452-8, 527, 34, Sandakan Memorial geology 333 526-7 Park 351 history 333, 336 park fees 453 396 J orientation 333-5 history 565-75 Jalan Labi 482-4 travel to/from 340-1 Borneo 567-8 jellyfish 201 H Kinta Valley 133 Hari Raya Aidlifitri 26 British rule 568-9 Jerantut 269-71, 270 Klang 115 hawker stalls bumiputra corporate Jerudong 475 wealth 572 46, 235-49 KLCC 57-60, 71-4, 78, 89, George Town 177 93-4, 98, Dutch rule 566-7 accommodation 235 58 health 610-14 Klias 388 early trade 565-6 climate 235 environmental hazards kongsi (Chinese clan- East India Company 567 food 85, 235 611-13 houses) 165 ‘Emergency’ period 570 highlights 236 pregnancy 614 Kota Belud 344-5 empires 565-6 travel seasons 235 vaccinations 610 Kota Bharu 16, 284-91, Federation of Malaya 570 women’s 614 236-41, 238 285, 290 financial crisis 572-3 Night Market hepatitis A 611 Kota Kinabalu 316-30, 318 GE13 574-5 18, 230, 231, hepatitis B 611 18 accommodation 322-4 Ibrahim, Anwar 573 Judaism 586 hepatitis E 611 activities 316-20 628 Kota Kinabalu continued money 100 leeches 276, 612 megaliths 120, 459 drinking & nightlife planning 50 legal matters 600-1 Melaka 18, 46, 215-34 326-7 postal services 100 Legoland 237 accommodation 215 emergencies 328 shopping 96-104 leopards 520 climate 215 entertainment 327 sights 51-66 lesbian travellers 94, 554, food 85, 215 food 324-6 Titiwangsa 65, 74, 600 highlights 216

INDEX INDEX internet access 328 89, 66 Brunei 487 travel seasons 215 medical services 328 tourist information Limbang Division 465-7 Melaka City 217-33, money 328 99-100 literature 587 218-19

K- postal services 328 tours 67-8 longhouses 15, 436, accommodation 225-8 

M shopping 327-8 travel cards 103 580, 15 activities 224  sights 316-20 travel seasons 50 Labi Longhouses 483 drinking & nightlife 230 tourist information 329 travel to/from 100-2 Lundu 425-6 festivals & events 225 tours 320-2 travel within 102, 96 food 228-30 travel to/from 328-30 Tun Abdul Razak shopping 231 Heritage Park 60-3, M travel within 330 Mabul 375-6 sights 217-24 75, 90, 61 Kuala Besut 300 macaques 415, 520, tours 224-5 387 521 Kuala Kangsar 147-9, 148 MacRitchie Reservoir 510 memorials Kuala 116-17 Kuala Kedah 212 Mahsuri 197 War Memo- Kuala Sepetang 154 rial 341 Kuala Lipis 277-8 malaria 611 Kuala Terengganu 304- Limbang Raid Memorial Kuala Lumpur 45, 50-104, Malay people 576 9, 305 465-6 52-3, 54-5 Malaysia Airlines Kuantan 262-4, 263 Memorial Stone 387 accommodation 50, flight MH17 562 68, 101 Kubah National Park 421-4 Menumbok 388 flight MH370 575 activities 66-7 Kuching 14, 396-413, 398- Merdeka Square 51, 56 Maliau Basin Conservation Bangsar Baru 75, 90-1, 9, 414, 14 Mersing 242-5, 243 Area 382-3, 16 94-5, 98-9, 91 accommodation 404-6 120 mangroves 528, 528 Brickfields 60-3, 75, 90, activities 402 Miri 445-67, maps 601 446 98-9, 61 drinking & nightlife mobile phones 20, 603 408-9 Marina Bay Sands 493 Bukit Nanas 75-6 money 20, 21, 601-2 emergencies 410 markets 24, 99 children, travel with 68 monkeys 520, see also in- Bangsar Sunday Market Chinatown 51-7, 68-9, festivals & events 403-4 dividial species 90 75-6, 92, 97, 54-5 food 406-8 monuments Central Market 316 Chow Kit 63-5, 64 medical services 410 Birch Memorial Clock Jonker Walk Night Mar- climate 50 money 410-11 Tower 126 ket 18, 230, 231, 18 courses 67 shopping 409-10 National Monument 62 Kota Bharu 16 day trips 115 sights 396-402 22 Langkawi 205 drinking & nightlife 92-5 tourist information 411 Abdul Gafoor Mosque Masjid India Pasar tours 403 502-3 entertainment 95-6 Malam 90 travel to/from 411-12 Acheen St Mosque 163 events 68 Medan Niaga Satok 402 travel within 412-13 Indian Mosque 397 festivals 68 Night Market 316 Kuching Wetlands National Jame’Asr Hassanil food 50, 87 Night Market 341 Park 419 Bolkiah Mosque 473, 5 Golden Triangle 69-71, Saberkas Weekend 345-6 Masjid Di Raja Sultan 76-8, 93, 72 Market 447 Suleiman 115-16 highlights 52-3, 52-3 Serikin Weekend Market Masjid India Muslim 127 history 51 425 L Masjid Jamek 56 internet access 99 Lahad Datu 365-6 Sunday Market 316 Masjid Kampung Hulu itineraries 57 Masjid India 63-5, 74, 89, Lambir Hills National Park 222 Kampung Baru 63-5, 74, 444-5 94, 64 Masjid Kapitan Keling 89, Masjid Kapitan Keling 166 64 Langkawi, see Pulau 166 KLCC 57-60, 71-4, 78, 89, Langkawi Masjid Selat Melaka 224 Masjid Negara 62-3 93-4, 98, 58 Langkawi International massage 341 Masjid Negeri 262 Masjid India 63-5, 74, 89, Maritime & Aerospace Mataking 377 Exhibition 200 Masjid Selat Melaka 224 94, 64 Matang Wildlife Centre Masjid Ubudiah 147 medical services 100 Langkawi night market 205 422-4 Masjid Zahir 210 language 20, 615-19 measures 601 Omar Ali Saifuddien courses 67 media 591 Mosque 470-1 Map Pages 000 Singlish 618 medical services 610-11 Sultan Mosque 504 Photo Pages 000 Layang Layang 348-9 traditional medicine 614 motorcycle travel 607-8 629 mountain climbing 32, 34-5 Labuan Marine Museum Sarawak Textile Museum Similajau National Park MRT 104 390 397 441-2 Mt Kinabalu 13, 333-41, Labuan Museum 389-90 Sibu Heritage Centre Talang-Satang National 528, 334, 339, 13 Laman Padi 192 430 Park 428-9 accommodation 338-40 Lau King Howe Memorial Singapore Art Museum Taman Negara 271-7 493-4 climbing trails 335-8 Museum 430 Tanjung Datu National

Singapore City Gallery Park 427-8 INDEX food 340 Lee Kong Chian Natural History Museum 512 501 Tunku Abdul Rahman geology 333 Limbang Regional Sultan Azlan Shah National Park 330-2 history 333, 336 Museum 465 Gallery 147 Ulu Temburong National -orientation 333-5  M Mahathir’s Birthplace 136-7 Park 486-7 travel to/from 340-1 208 Tun Jugah Foundation nature 105  P Mt Trus Madi 385 Mari Mari Cultural 401 45, 105, Muar 241-2 Village 317 music 564, 589-90 106, 107, 117-22 museums 23, see also Maritime Museum & music festivals climate 105 galleries Naval Museum 220 Jazz food 87 351 Monsopiad Cultural Festival 184 highlights 106, 106 Village 317 Art Museum 401 Penang World Music history 107 Mulu Discovery Centre Festival 169 Asian Civilisations travel seasons 105 Museum 493 452 Rainforest World Music newspapers 601 Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum of Islamic Festival 404 Niah National Park 442-4 Museum 221 Civilisation 317-18 St Jerome’s Laneway Baba House 499-500 Museum Sultan Abu Festival 518 night markets 90 Bank Negara Malaysia Bakar 260 myths & legends 197 Railway 329 Museum & Art Gallery Muzium Darul Ridzuan Northeastern Sarawak 63, 65 126 452-67 Brunei Museum 471 Muzium Diraja 210 N Camera Museum 162 Muzium Gopeng 133 National Gallery Singapore 19, 492, 19 O Changi Museum & Muzium Kota Kayang Omar Ali Saifuddien Chapel 509 212-13 National Museum of Singapore 492-3 Mosque 470-1 Chinatown Heritage Muzium Musik 57 national parks 35, see opening hours 602 Centre 500 Muzium Negeri 117-18, also gardens, parks & people 579 Chinese Heritage 209 reserves orangutans 343, 356, 357, Museum 237-8 Muzium Padi 212 Bako National Park 520, 4, 520 Muzium 149 413-17 396 National Museum 62 Batang Ai National Dr Sun Yat Sen’s Penang National Museum of Park 429 P Base 162 packing lists 335 Singapore 492-3 Crocker Range National Ethnology Museum National Textiles Park 384-5 paddleboating 110 397, 401 Museum 57 Endau-Rompin National 47, 250-80 Forestry Museum 483 Natural History Museum Park 247-9, 248 accommodation 250 Fort Siloso 515 401 Gunung Gading National climate 250 435 Niah Archaeology Park 426-7 food 85, 250 Galeri Diraja Sultan Museum 443 Gunung Ledang National highlights 251 Abdul Aziz 115 P Ramlee House 166 Park 242 travel seasons 250 Galeri Pangkor 143 Penang Museum 162 Gunung Mulu National palaces Galeri Sultan Abdul Penang War Museum Park 452-8, 527, 34, Blue Mansion 159, 4-5 Halim 210 189 526-7 Istana Alam Shah 115 Galeria Perdana 196 Peranakan Museum 493 Kinabalu National Park 121 Heritage House 133 Petroleum Museum 447 333-41 Istana Iskandariah 148 House of Yeap Chor 60 Kubah National Park Istana Lama 120-1 Ee 163 Pinang Peranakan 421-4 Istana Nurul Iman 473-4 Indian Heritage Centre Mansion 159-61 Kuching Wetlands palm oil 593-4 503 Prison Museum 223 National Park 419 Pangkor Laut 145 Interpretation Centre Royal Museum 65-6 Lambir Hills National 414, 422 Park 444-5 parks & reserves 24, see Royal Regalia Museum also gardens, national Islamic Arts Museum 60 471 Niah National Park 442-4 parks Islamic Museum 401 Rumah Terbalik & the 3D Abdul Razak Heritage Istana Kenangan 147 Wonders Museum 343 Penang National Park 186-7 Park 63 KL City Gallery 57 316-17 Pulau Tiga National Park Bukit Gemok Forest Kompleks Muzium Sarawak Cultural Village 388-9 Reserve 378 Negeri Terengganu 310 417-18 630 parks & reserves continued climate 123 food 190, 204-6 rickshaws 608 Bukit Patoi Recreational food 83, 123 highlights 191 Rimbun Dahan 109 Park 484-5 highlights 124 internet access 207 River Cruises 361-2 Cape Rachado Forest history 125 medical services 207 Roach Reefs 378 Reserve 121 planning 123 money 207 rock climbing 32, 34-5, East Coast Park 505, 507 travel seasons 123 shopping 207 254

INDEX INDEX Fort Canning Park 497 Peranakan Museum 493 sights 192-7 rubber plantations 147 Kampung Kuantan 117 Peranakan people 578 tourist information 207 Kilim Karst Geoforest 46, 212-14, 191 tours 197-200 Park 195-6 S P- accommodation 190 travel agencies 207 Sabah 47, 314-92, 315 

S Kinta Nature Park 132-3  climate 190 travel to/from 207-8 KL Bird Park 60, 62 accommodation 314 food 83, 190 travel within 208 KL Butterfly Park 63 climate 314 highlights 191 Pulau Mantanani 348 KL Forest Eco Park 51 food 88, 314 history 212 Pulau Pangkor 141-6, 142, KLCC Park 59 highlights 315 Petaling Jaya 114 144 Kota Kinabalu Wetland planning 314 Pulau Pemanggil 247 Centre 317 57, 59, 2 travel seasons 314 Pulau Perhentian 13, 292- Labuan Marine Park 391 photography 602 Sabah Agricultural Park 301, 293, 13 Lagenda Langkawi planning 393, see also indi- 385-6 Dalam Taman 192 vidual regions Pulau 246-7 safety 376, 602-3 MacRitchie Reservoir 510 Brunei basics 20-1 Pulau Redang 301-3 hitching 608 Matang Mangrove Forest budgeting 20-1 Pulau Selirong 484 snakes 613 Reserve 154 calendar of events 25-6 Pulau Sibu 246 traditional medicine 614 Miri City Fan 447 internet resources 21 Pulau Sipadan 11, 369, 372, Sandakan 349-55, 350 373, Rainforest Discovery itineraries 27-30 11 accommodation 352-3 diving 374 Centre 357 Malaysia basics 20-1 drinking & nightlife 353 Pulau Tiga National Park Rejang Esplanade 430 Malaysia, Singapore and food 353 388-9 Royal Belum State Park Brunei’s regions 45-8 sights 349-51 154, 155 Pulau Tinggi 246 responsible travel 596 tourist information 354 Taman Alam Kuala Pulau Tioman 14, 251-60, Singapore basics 20-1 tours 351-2 Selangor Nature travel seasons 20 252, 14 Park 116 travel to/from 354 politics 562-4, 581-2 accommodation 250, Taman Negeri Perlis 214 254-9 travel within 354-5 Pom Pom 377-8 Taman Wetland 113 activities 252-4 Sandakan Archipelago population 563 359-60 Tambunan Rafflesia climate 250 Port Dickson 121-2 Reserve 384 drinking & nightlife 259 Santubong Peninsula postal services 602 417-19 Wind Cave Nature food 250, 254-9 Reserve 424 proboscis monkeys 358, Sapulot & Batu Punggul 520 highlights 251 386 passport 604 sights 252-4 Protestant Cemetery 163 Sarawak 47, 393-467, 394 Pekan 260-2, 261 travel seasons 250 Province Wellesley 158 accommodation 393 Pelabuhan Klang 115 travel to/from 259 public holidays 602 climate 393 Penang 46, 156-89, , 157 Pulau Aur 247 travel within 259-60 see also George Town food 88, 393 Pulau Banggi 348 Pulau Ubin 511 accommodation 156 highlights 394 Pulau Besar (Johor) 245-6 Putrajaya 113-14 climate 156 history 396 Pulau Besar (Melaka) festivals & events 168-9 planning 393 233-4 food 83, 156, 178 R travel seasons 393 Pulau Dayang 247 rabies 611 highlights 157 Sarawak State Assembly Pulau Jerejak 188-9 radio 601 402 history 157-8 Pulau Kapas 303-4 SEA Aquarium 513-14 travel seasons 156 rafflesias 527, 526 Pulau Labuan 389-92 Seberang Perai 158 Penang Butterfly Farm 187 rafting 321 Pulau Lang Tengah 301 Sekayu Falls 312 Penang Hill 166 rainforests 6 Pulau Langkawi 18, 46, Selangor 45, 105, 106, Penang International Ramadan 44, 471, 584 192-208, 191, 194-5, 107-17 Dragon Boat Festival 169 raptors 122 198, 18 climate 105 Perak 45, 123-55 Raub 279-80 accommodation 190, religion 563, 583-6 food 87 accommodation 123 200-4 responsible travel 33, 596 highlights 106, 106 climate 190 diving 36 history 107 drinking & nightlife planning 105 Map Pages 000 206-7 hiking 33 travel seasons 105 Photo Pages 000 festivals & events 200 rhinoceros 523 Sematan 427 631 Semenggoh Nature highlights 490-1 surfing 37 Puh Toh Tze Buddhist Reserve 419-20 history 489 Cherating 265-6 Temple 319 Semporna 369-72, 370 holidays 555 Sabah 346 Puu Jih Shih Temple 351 Semporna Archipelago internet access 554 sustainability 596 Sam Kow Tong Tem- 372-8 Kampong Glam 503-4, swans 430 ple 63 Sepang Circuit 113 532, 538, 545, 551 Sam Poh Footprint

Sepilok 355-9, 355 language 618 Temple 189 INDEX Sepilok Orangutan Reha- legal matters 554 T Sam Poh Temple 136 Tabin Wildlife Reserve 369 bilitation Centre 15, lesbian travellers 554 Sam Poh Tong 129 355-6, Taiping 149-53, 150 Sam Sing Kung 351 -Little India 501-3, 532,  S 15 Talang-Satang National Seremban 117-20, 118 537-8, 545, 551, 502 San Ching Tian Temple  T Park 428-9 447 Seribuat Archipelago Marina Bay 489-99, 245-7 529-31, 534-5, 542-3, Taman Negara 16, 271-7, Sin Sze Si Ya Temple 56 Serikin 425 549-50, 494-5 272, 17 Sri Mahamariamman shadow puppetery 588-9 medical services 554 Tambunan 384-5 Temple 51 Shah Alam 114 money 554-5 Tanjung Datu National Park Sri Mariamman Temple 427-8 165-6, 500 shopping 24 Orchard Road 504, Sri Tehndayuthapany language 617 532-3, 538-9, 545-6, tapirs 523, 522 Swamy 137 Sibu 430-4 551-2, 506 Tasik Chini 260, 595 postal services 555 378-81, 379 Sri Veeramakaliamman Signal Hill Observatory Temple 501 Platform 316 Quays, the 489-99, Tawau Hills Park 381-2 Temple Cave 107 Similajau National Park 529-31, 534-5, 542-3, taxis 608-9 Teochew Temple 165 441-2 549-50, 494-5 tea 140, 180, 543 65 Singamata 375 Sentosa Island 513-15, tea plantations Temple Singapore 48, 488-560, 533, 541, 547, 514 Boh Sungei Palas Tea 430, 447 490-1 shopping 548-53 Estate 139 Wat Buppharam 170 accommodation 488, sights 489-515 Cameron Bharat Tea 529-33, 553 teahouses 543 Plantation 136 Wat Chayamangkala- ram 170 activities 515-16 telephone services Sabah Tea Garden 341 Wat Nikrodharam 210 Botanic Gardens 504-5, 555-6 teahouses 543 Tempurung 387-8 539-40, 546, 552 Tiong Bahru 505 telephone services 20, 603 Tenom 385 business hours 555 tourist information 556 Teluk Bahang 186-8 Terengganu 47, 304-13 CBD, the 499-501, 531-2, tours 518 Teluk Chempedak 265 accommodation 281 535-7, 543-5, 498-9 travel seasons 488 Teluk Kumbar 189 climate 281 Chinatown 499-501, 531- travel to/from 556-7 Teluk Nipah 143, 144 2, 535-7, 543-5, 550, food 85, 281 travel within 558-60 Temerloh 268-9 498-9, 508 highlights 282-3 visas 556 temples 22 climate 488 travel seasons 281 walks 517, 517 Arulmigu Sri Raja Colonial District 489-99, Singapore Botanic Gardens Kalliamman 237 Thaipusam 25, 108, 168 529-31, 534-5, 542-3, 504-5 Buddha Tooth Relic tigers 520, 520-1 549-50, 494-5 Singapore Zoo 509-10, 4 Temple 501 time 603 consulates 553 Singlish 618 Buddhist Maha Vihara Tioman Island 47 courses 518 Sipadan 372-3 63 Tiong Bahru 505 customs regulations 553 snorkelling 13, 36, 373 Che Sui Khor Moral Tip of Borneo 346-7 Dempsey Hill 504-5, Uplifting Society 319 Cherating 265 Titiwangsa 65, 74, 89 539-40, 546, 552 Chinese Temple 439 Pulau Langkawi 199 toads 527, 527 disabilities, travellers Dhammikarama Pulau Perhentian 294-5 tourist information 603 with 556 Burmese Buddhist tours discounts 553 Pulau Tioman 252-3 Temple 170 adventure 200 drinking & nightlife weather 36 Foo Ling Kong 143 bicycle 168 542-7 spas Gua Kok Look Tong 129 boat 199 electricity 553 Kuala Lumpur 66-7 Hainan Temple 163-5 bus 67-8 embassies 553 Langkawi 197 Hiang Thian Siang emergencies 553 Penang 193 Temple 397 caves 108 entertainment 547-8 Sri Menanti 120-1 Hin Ho Bio 397 diving & snorkelling 199 festivals & events 518, Stadthuys 217 food 67, 168 529 state parks 35 396-7 Putrajaya Sightseeing 113 food 87, 488, 533-41, street art 23-4, 65, 167, 23 Kek Lok Si Temple 170 554 street food 11, 92, 151, 326 Kuan Yin Teng 170 walking (George Town) gay travellers 554 168 Sungai Kinabatangan Lin Je Kong Temple 143 train travel 605, 606, 609 high tea 535 360-5 Perak Tong 129 632 travel permits 437 V weights 601 Turtle Sanctuary 266-7 travel to/from Malaysia vacations 602 Wesak () Day 25, 292 wildlife smuggling 593 605-6 vaccinations 610 Western Sarawak 413-30 Wind Cave Nature Reserve travel within Malaysia views 22 Weston 388 424 606-9 visas 20, 604 white-water rafting 36-7 women in Malaysia, Singa- trekking 15, 322, 341, pore & Brunei 581 Singapore 556 wildlife 6, 32, 520-5, 593,

INDEX INDEX 367-8, 382-3, 455-6, women’s health 614 visual arts 591 see also individial 462-4, 466 species women travellers 604 guides 453, 463 volunteering 254, 294, 357, 423, 604 wildlife sanctuaries & wreck diving 391 trishaws 232, 560, 608 reserves -T 

Z 343-4 Borneo Sun Bear  Tun Abdul Razak Heritage W Conservation Centre Y Park 60-3, 75, 90, 61 walking 109 356-7 Yap Kongsi 165 Tunku Abdul Rahman walking routes 60 Jurong Bird Park 512 National Park 330-1 walking tours 67, 152, 316 Kudat Turtle Conserva- Z tion Society 346 turtles 524, 525 George Town 164, 164 Zoo Negara 109 Tutong 482 Kampung Baru 63 Labuan Bird Park 390-1 zoos TV 601 water monitor lizards 331 Labuk Bay Proboscis Langkawi Bird Paradise Monkey Sanctuary waterfalls 112 192 357-8 Durian Perangin 196 Melaka Zoo 233 U Matang Wildlife Centre Night Safari 510 Ulu Temburong National Sekayu Falls 312 422-4 River Safari 511-12 Park 486-7 Telaga Tujuh 195 Sepilok Orangutan Unesco World Heritage Site Temurun Waterfall 195 Rehabilitation Centre Singapore Zoo 509-10 (Penang) 159 weather 20, 25-6, 50, 393, 355-6 Zoo Negara 109 Universal Studios 514-15 see also individual Sungei Buloh Wetland Zoo Taiping & Night regions Reserve 510-11 Safari 149

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 633 NOTES 634 NOTES 635 NOTES 636 NOTES 637 EMMA NEUVONEN

LONELY PLANET IN THE WILD

Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to [email protected] We share the best on our Facebook page every week! ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 638

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist /Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro/MRT/MTR station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Austin Bush Penang Austin came to Thailand in 1999 on a language scholarship, and has re- mained in ever since. This is his second time contributing to Ma- laysia, Singapore & Brunei, a gig that is arguably Lonely Planet’s most delicious. Austin is a native of Oregon and a writer and photographer who often focuses on food; samples of his work can be seen at www.austinbushphotography.com. Au- tin also wrote the Eat Like a Local and Regional Specialities features of this book. Read more about Austin at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/osten_th Anita Isalska Melaka, Perak Anita is a freelance travel journalist, editor and copywriter. Former- ly a Lonely Planet digital editor, Anita surprised no one when she swapped office life for taste-testing street food and prowling beach resorts. Previous Malaysia travels took Anita from leechy Sabah hikes to Ipoh’s red bean frappés. Returning to research her most-adored regions, Perak and Melaka, was a joy. Anita writes about travel, adventure, food and culture for a host of international publications; check out some of her work at www.anitaisalska.com. Read more about Anita at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/anitatravels Robert Scott Kelly Selangor & Negeri Sembilan A resident of Kuala Lumpur since 2013, Robert en- joyed the opportunity to explore the states surrounding his home in more detail to update this guidebook. His favourite discoveries: the megaliths of Negeri Sem- bilan and the traditional wood houses of Kampung Pantai. Robert, a freelance writer, photographer, documentary filmmaker and, now, fledgling podcaster, has also contributed to Lonely Planet titles including Kuala Lumpur, Taiwan, China, Alaska, and Tibet. Check out his latest work on www.robertscottkelly.com. Read more about Robert at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/RobertScottKelly Simon Richmond Kuala Lumpur Simon first travelled in the region back in the early 1990s. A lot has changed since, but both Malaysia and Singapore remain among Simon’s favour- ite destinations for their easily accessible mix of cultures, landscapes, adventures and, crucially, delicious food. This is the fifth time the award-winning travel writer and photographer has written for Lonely Planet’s Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei guide. He’s also the author of Lonely Planet’s Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang guide as well as a shelf-load of other titles for this and other publishers. Read more about Simon’s travels at www.simonrichmond.com and on Twitter and Instagram @simonrichmond. Simon also wrote most of the Plan Your Trip section and the Understand and Survival Guide sections of this book. Read more about Simon at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/simonrichmond

Richard Waters Sabah Richard is an award-winning journalist and writes about travel for The Daily Telegraph, The Independent and Sunday Times, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, Elle and National Geographic Traveller. He lives with his family in the Cotswolds, UK, and when he’s not travelling, loves surfing and diving. Exploring Sabah was an absolute joy, his favourite moments being watching sharks in Si- padan, and seeing the sun rise over the jungle in the Danum Valley. He also writes a family wellbeing, adventure blog called Soul Tonic for Sanlam Bank. Check it out on: www.sanlam. co.uk/Media/Blogs/Soul-Tonic.asp AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to . It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Isabel Albiston Langkawi, Kedah & Perlis; Sarawak; Brunei Since her first trip to Malaysia, trav- elling the length of the peninsula by train on an overland journey from Singapore to Nepal, Isabel has grown to love shimmying across rickety bamboo bridges on rainforest hikes. The pursuit of laksa keeps luring her back and she can now confirm Sarawak to be the clear winner in the countrywide contest for the best broth. Isabel is a journalist who has written for a number of newspapers and magazines including the UK’s Daily Telegraph. Read more about Isabel at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/IsabelAlbiston Brett Atkinson East Coast Islands, Kelantan & Terengganu Following past sojourns in the west of Malaysia, this was Brett’s first exploration of the peninsula’s eastern edge. Highlights included island hopping from the Perhentians to Pulau Kapas, the street food and night markets of Kota Bharu, and the compact heritage appeal of Chinatown in Kuala Terengganu. Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand and has covered more than 50 countries as a guidebook author and travel and food writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his most recent work and upcoming travels. Read more about Brett at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/BrettAtkinson Greg Benchwick Johor, Pahang & Tioman Island Greg’s been writing about travel both near and far for the better part of the past two decades. He’s written dozens of travel guides for Lonely Planet, and is a recognised expert on sustainable tourism. For this edition, he jungle-boated down from Taman Negara, got nuclear drunk in his search for the perfect bar in Cherating and nearly fell off the planet in Tioman. Read more about Greg at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/gregbenchwick Cristian Bonetto Singapore Cristian has been chowing his way across Singapore for well over a decade. Countless calories later, the Australian-born writer remains deeply fascinated by the Little Red Dot’s dramatic evolution. To date, Cristian has con- tributed to more than 30 Lonely Planet guides, including New York City, Italy, Denmark and both the Singapore city and pocket guides. His musings have also appeared in a string of publications, including Britain’s The Telegraph and San Francisco’s 7X7. Follow Cristian on Twitter (@CristianBonetto) and Instagram (rexcat75). Read more about Cristian at: https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/CristianBonetto

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 13th edition – August 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 74321 029 1 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

Top View