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Helen van Lindere, Jeremy Clark, Peter Hogge OUR READERS and my guides Bian Rumai, Esther Abu, Many thanks to the travellers who used Jeffry Simun, Susan Pulut and Syria Lejau the last edition and wrote to us with help- (Gunung Mulu National Park); Apoi Ngimat, ful hints, useful advice and interesting Jaman Riboh, Joanna Joy, Rebita Lupong, anecdotes: Antonio Almeida, Alexandra Bardswell, ­Tamara Rian John Pasan Lamulun, Stephen and Tine, Bedeaux, Neesha Copley, ­Augusto Garolla, and Stu Roach (Bario); Mr Lim (Chong Teah), Paul Gurn, Lloyd Jones, Laurel ­Kinrade, Cyril Mr Chua (Eng Hin) and Ferdinand Gibson and Danielle Lousberg, Petra O’Neill, Bettina (); the dedicated staff of ’s Ortmann, Christine Overvelde, Glenn Owens, national parks; Glenn van Zutphen, Leonard Andrea Sanfilippo, Jeanie and Jim Schaden, Koh, Michelle Elias Solomon and Seng Beng Chronis Sofianidis, ­Fabian ­Spettel, Brian Yeo and their families (Singapore); and, ­Strating, Eileen Synnott, ­Maurice van Dael, ­finally, my beloved wife Rachel Safman, Johnno Van Havere, and Laszlo Wagner our son Yair Lev and my mother-in-law Edie ­Safman (Los Angeles). AUTHOR THANKS Adam Karlin Terima kasih: Katie King, rockstar contact Daniel Robinson who redefines break dancing; the people Scores of people went out of their way to who gave me insight, Charlie Ryan, Jessica make this a better book, but I’m especially in- Yew, Tom, Joel, Silas and Howard, I’m greatly debted to Amélie Blanc, Borbala Nyiri, Donald privileged to have met you, and to have had and Marina Tan, Eric and Annie Yap, Jacque- the opportunity to explore your island with line Fong, Jo-Lynn Liao, Kelvin Egay, Polycarp, you; Angelica, the baddest ass bartender Mathew Ngau Jau, Philip Yong, Thomas Ulrich in Oakland, thanks for the laughs; Alex and Vernon Kedit (); Jessie, Noriza ­Zawadzki, Daniele Cohen, Serge, Johnny and Peter Tiong (); Paul Chuo, Sandra and the rest, your company was always Kromdijk, Vincent Tiong and Wouter Mullink hilarious; ­ Mom and Dad, thanks for your (); Camille de Kerchove, Captain David constant support; and Rachel, for your love, (Bennet), Elyn Chan and family, and Mrs and your voice every morning and evening Lee (); Amy McGoldrick, Antonella Mori, when I’m away. BEHNT I D HE SCENES 329

Naomi ebecca Chau, ­R Elin Berglund, Jane Hart ­R ­44 Raphael Walker Gerard ichards, Kate Sullivan, Managing Layout Designer Cover Research Internal Image Research Language Content ­Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Jasna Bratic, Lauren Egan, Ryan Larissa Evans, Chris Bronwyn Frost, Girdler, Hicks, Genesys India, Jouve India, Mardi Eva Murphy, O’Connor, Kirsten Paton, Rawlings, Trent Parker Aude Vauconsant

11, 1633 11, .

­

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS MC, Peel from adapted data map Climate ‘Updated (2007) TA McMahon & BL Finlayson Climate the Köppen-Geiger of Map World Hydrology and Earth SystemClassification’, Sciences, Frans Valley, Danum photograph: Cover Stock ­Lanting/National Geographic Clara Monitto James Leversha roduced roduced by the following: Suki Gear, Suki Ilaria Walker Gear, Anita Bahn, Diana von Holdt Health chapter, Health which chapter, was then revised by Daniel ThisRobinson. guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, and p Coordinating Layout Designer Managing Editors Sasha Baskett, Bruce Evans Managing Cartographers Commissioning Editors Coordinating Editors Coordinating Carto grapher Catherine Naghten, Gabrielle Stefanos - ­ hile ­p dventure dventure ­a tion of Lonely ­R ­s ous and charming Adam Karlin researched and wrote the Diving Pulau Sipadan chapter. Batchelor Dr Trish wrote the Daniel He researched andSarawak, wrote the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide chapters. obinsonPaul led the team. Stiles survived his crazy research trip to , and the hilari travel travel experts who have an un paralleled passion for and the wilder parts of the world. LP passionate veteran, eco-traveller and - THIS BOOK This 3rd edi Planet’s Borneo guidebook was researched and written by a tellar team of intrepid Paul Stiles guided people who the many to My thanks the to Kalimantan end of one from me safely Ahmad, Rahim, Lucas, again: and back other, Aini, Gaye, Erwin, Alex, family, and Kaya all their valuable for coauthors, my To Shady. And the way. along and comments advice Trek making the Cross-Borneo for Ilaria, to possible. 330 Bario 186-90 British Company 270 Batang Ai region 158-9 Brooke family 269-70 Batang Duri 212 Brooke, James 269, 270, 270 Batang Rejang 163-8 Brunei 35, 196-214, 197 bathrooms 308 accommodation 196 bats 84, 108, 172, 182, 295 climate 196 Batu Daya 248 food 196 Bau 153-5 highlights 197 Bawang Assan Longhouse Village national parks 290 159-60 Brunei Museum 199, 202 beaches budgeting 14, 301, 304 Bako National Park 145 Bulungan 242 220 1Malaysia 267 bus travel 313-14 Kemala Beach 220 business hours 301-2 Lundu 155 butterflies 65 A Muara 202 ABC 286 Pulau Datok Beach 248 accommodation 300-1, see also Pulau Manukan 54 C individual locations cakes 137, 284 activities 20-5 Santubong Peninsula 146 Similajau National Park 169-71 camping 301 air pollution 293 canopy walks 20, 65, 89, 102 air travel 15, 235, 311, 312 Tanjung Aru 45 bearded pigs 297 car travel 315 alcohol 280 caves 24-5, 182-4 ambuyat 205 bee stings 319 Belaga 167 Batu Tulug 82-3 animals 295-7, see also Clearwater Cave 182 individual animals Belait District 209-10 Deer Cave 6, 182 Annah Rais Longhouse 150-1 Berau 238-9, 239 Fairy Cave 154 area codes 15, 307-8 bicycle travel 312, 316 Gomantong Caves 84 art galleries, see museums & galleries people 274 Lang’s Cave 182 ASRI 249 Bilit 85-6 Niah National Park 171-3 ATMs 306 168-9, 170 show caves 182 biofuel 293 Wind Cave (Bau) 153-4 bird watching B Wind Cave (Gunung Mulu) 182 Danum Valley Conversation Area 89 Ba Kelalan 190 cell phones 15, 307-8 Gomantong Caves 84 Bahasa 321 cemeteries 71-2, 130, 110 Kelabit Highlands 187 Bahasa 321 children, travel with 302, 320 Kinabalu National Park 61-2 Bako National Park 13, 142-6 Chinese cuisine 285-6 Mt Kinabalu 62 balan-balan 68 Chinese museums 124 Tawau Hills Park 101 Balikpapan 220-5, 221 Chinese people 118, 266-7, 268, bamboo chicken 281 birds 298, see also individual birds 270 Bandar 109, 110 bites & stings 319-20 Chinese New Year 132 Bandar Seri Begawan 198-209, 200-1 boat tours 10, 25, 11 267, 277-8, 280 accommodation 203-4 Sungai Kahayan 258 climate 14, 18-19, 288 activities 198-202 Sungai Kinabatangan 83-4 climate change 312 drinking 206 Sungai Mahakam 229-30, 231, 235 consulates 303 food 204-6 Sungai Rungan 258 cooking courses 131 internet access 207 National Park 253 coral reefs 116, 288, 116-17 medical services 207 boat travel 311-12, 312-13, 316 costs 14, 301, 304 shopping 206 Bobo 251 credit cards 14, 305-6 sights 198-202 body art 276 crocodiles 144, 149, 153, 170, 223, 307 tourist information 207 Bohebekut 241 Cross-Borneo Trek 9, 219 tours 202-3 Bohesilian 241 cultural villages, see also travel to/from 208-9 Bolkiah, Sultan Hassanal 19, 272 longhouses travel within 208-9 books 21, 273, 274, 295 Mari Mari Cultural Village 41-2 Bangar 211-12 border crossings 314 Monsopiad Cultural Village 44 Banjarmasin 259-62, 261 Brunei–Sabah 112, 207 Sarawak Cultural Village 146-7, 278 Brunei–Sarawak 181, 208 culture 118, 273-80, 118-19 Sabah–Kalimantan 100 currency 14, 15, 305-6 Map pages 000 Sabah–Philippines 77 customs regulations 302 000 Photo pages Sarawak–Kalimantan 151, 193 cycling, see bicycle travel 331 D 225 Sabah 66, 86, 96, 105, 111 dangers 306-7 pointing 266 Sarawak 148, 150, 151, 154, 157, 159, Danum Valley Conservation Area 10, European colonisation 268-70 173, 188, 190, 191 88-90, 11 events, see festivals & events hornbills 114, 277, 298, 115 Data Dawai 235 exchange rates 15 hot springs 13, 118, 266-7, 273-80, Muara Tanuhi Hot Springs 264 13, 119 Poring 65 agriculture 278 F Tawau Hills Park 101 ferns 283, 298 body art 276 hydroelectric dams 293-4 e IN ferries 311-12 cuisine 134, 280, 281-4 D festivals & events 18-19, 306

languages 14 X Baleh-Kapit Raft Safari 165 religion 275-7 I D-K Chinese New Year 132 273, 276, death marches 74 113 Erau Festival 231 independence 272 292 Gawai Dayak 280 273-80 dehydration 319 Kuching Festival Fair 132 Indonesian language 321 demographics 266-7 Rainforest World Music Festival Indo-Pacific basin 29 dengue fever 318 132 insect bites 319-20 Derawan Archipelago 12, 29, first-aid kits 317-18 239-42, 12 insurance 304, 317 flags 310 diamonds 263, 269 internet access 304 food 281-6, 304, see also diarrhoea 320 internet resources 15, 318 individual dishes 44, 129-30, 199, 267, 268, 269 dipterocarp forests 288-9 Chinese cuisines 285-6 Islamic separatists 272 disabilities, travellers with 308 Dayak cuisine 134, 280, 281-4 islands diving 26-9, 116, 28, 116-17, see also hawker stalls 50, 99 snorkelling Juanta Island 248 49 Derawan archipelago 241 Kapalai 27, 97 Malay cuisine 284-5 dive sites 27, 28 Nunukan Island 241-2 foreign exchange 15, 306 Layang Layang 70-1 Pulau Banggi 70 fungal rashes 320 Mabul 95-6 Pulau Derawan 12, 240-1 Pulau Lankayan 81-2 Pulau Gaya 54 Pulau Mantanani 70 G Pulau 242 responsible diving 29 galleries, see museums & galleries Pulau Kumala 231 safety 319 gardens, see parks & gardens Pulau Labuan 109-12 Archipelago 93-7 Gawai Dayak 280 Pulau Lankayan 81-2 Sipadan 93-5 gay travellers 304 Pulau Mantanani 29, 70 travel seasons 26 geology 287-8 Pulau Manukan 54 Tunku Abdul Rahman National gibbons 297 Pulau Maratua 241 Park 54 Gomantong Caves 84 Pulau Natuna 243 dolphins 233 Gunung Bengoh 154-5 Pulau Sangalaki 242 drinking water 320 Gunung Gading National Park 155-6 Pulau Sapi 54 durian 283 Gunung Kinabalu 56-64, 57, 63 Pulau Satang 158 274, 277 Gunung Mulu National Park 6, 23, Pulau Selirong 212 24-5, 180-6, 2-3, 6-7 Pulau Sipadan 26-9, 93-5 E Pulau Sulug 55 earlobes, elongated 276 H Pulau Talang-Talang 158 economy 266 habitats 288-9 Pulau Tekaneng 250 ecotourism 45, 48, 69, 77-8, 85, halal food 285 itineraries 30-3 90, 178 hawker stalls 50, 99 electricity 302-3 headhunting 267, 270, 277-8 elephants 83, 85, 90, 297 health 317-20 J Jalan Labi 209 embassies 303 Heart of Borneo program 294 Jantur 233 emergencies 15 heat stroke 319 Japanese occupation 271 environmental issues 29, 289-94, heath forests 288 jellyfish 319-20 295 hiking, see trekking Erau Festival 231 history 56, 124, 218, 268-72 ethnic groups 266-7, 273-80 hitching 316 K etiquette holidays 306 Kadazan people 274, 277 dress 15 homestays 301 Kalimantan 35, 215-64, 216-17 leeches 266 Brunei 211 accommodation 215 longhouses 266, 280 Kalimantan 234, 254, 255 climate 215 332 Kalimantan continued tourist information 139 Maliau Basin Conservation Area 6, culture 218 tours 131-2 101-3, 289 highlights 216-17 travel to/from 140 Mancong 233 history 218 travel within 141-2 289 national parks 291 Kuching Wetlands National Park 148-9 maps 304-5 safety 220 Kudat 69 markets travel seasons 215 Kumai 254-5 Balikpapan 223 travel to/from 218, 220 National Park 236-7 Kota Belud 67

e IN travel within 220 Kota Kinabalu 40, 41

D wildlife 218 Kuching 131, 120 L X Kampong Buli Sim Sim 73-4 Palangka Raya 256 Lahad Datu 87-8 K-M Kampung Benuk 150 65 laksa 136, 284 Kandangan 262-3 Sibu 161 Lambir Hills National Park 173-4 Kapalai 27, 97 Mataking 27, 97 land rights 278 Kapit 164-7, 166 measures 302 language 14, 321-7 kek lapis (layer cakes) 137, 284 medical services 318 accommodation 322 Kelabit Highlands 13, 186-92 Melak 234-5 Dayak 14 276 Meliau 250 emergencies 323 kerangas (heath forests) 288 Mengkabong Water Village 67 food 322-3 Kinabalu National Park 9, 56-64, Mesilau Nature Resort 64-5 signs 323 57, 63, 9 MIB (Melayu Islam Beraja) 267 accommodation 62-4 time 324 Miri 29, 174-80, 176-7 climbing trails 59-61 transport 324-5 mobile phones 15, 307-8 permits & planning 57-9 Lanjak 250 money 14, 15, 305-6 via ferrata 61 Layang Layang 29, 70-1 monitor lizards 55 walking trails 61-2 leeches 22, 297, 319 monkeys 79-80, 144, 203, 296-7, 13 Kinabatangan Orang-utan etiquette 266 ­Conservation Project legal matters 304 montane forests 289 (KOCP) 83 leptospirosis 318 mosques Kinabatangan River 82-7 lesbian travellers 304 City 44-5 klotok 13, 13 193-5 etiquette 225, 310 Konfrontasi 272 lizards 54, 55 Indian Mosque 125 Kota Belud 67-8 logging 249, 292 Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque Kota Kinabalu 40-54, 42 Loksado 8, 263-4 201 accommodation 46-8 Long Bagun 235 Masjid Agung At-Taqwa 220 drinking 50-1 long ears 276 Masjid Sultan Suriansyah 260 emergencies 51 longboat tours, see boat tours Mesjid Abdurrahman 242 food 48-50 longhouses 8, 275, 301, 8 Mesjid Raya Darussalam 225 internet access 51 Annah Rais Longhouse 150 Mesjid Raya Sabilal Muhtadin 259 medical services 51 Batang Rejang 163, 165, 167 Mesjid Siratal Mustaqim 225 shopping 51 Bawang Assan Longhouse Village Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque 198-9, sights 40-5 159-60 118-19 tours 45-6 etiquette 279, 280 Islamic Centre 225 travel to/from 52-3 Rungus longhouses 70 State Mosque 45 travel within 53-4 Sarawak Cultural Village 146, 278 mosquitoes 318-19 Kuala Belait 210-11 visiting 278-80 mountain climbing 20, 23-4, 56-61, Kubah National Park 151-3 lowland forests 288-9 184 Kuching 8, 124-42, 126-7, 8 Lundu 155 mouse deer 297 accommodation 132 Mt Kinabalu 9, 23, 56-64, 9, activities 131 see also Kinabalu National Park climate 121 M Muara Muntai 232-3 Mabul 27, 95-6 drinking 136-7 Muara Pahu 234 macaques 144, 203 entertainment 137-8 Muller Mountains 235-6 228-35 festivals 132 museums & galleries, see malaria 318-19 also ­ cultural villages food 134-6, 137 Malay 73 shopping 138-42 cuisine 284-5 Art Museum 129 sights 124-31 language 321 Brunei Museum 199, 202 people 266-7 Cat Museum 131 000 Map pages Malay Islamic Monarchy 267 ­124 000 Photo pages Malaysian flag 310 Dewan Tun Abdul Razak 129 333 Ethnology Museum 128 Tanjung Datu National Park 157 budgeting 14 Forestry Museum 209 Tanjung Puting National Park 13, calendar of events 18-19 164 251-4, 13 children, travel with 302, 320 Interpretation Centre 142 Tawau Hills Park 101 internet resources 15, 318 Islamic Museum 129-30 Tunku Abdul Rahman National itineraries 30-3 Istana Kadriyah 242 Park 54-6 travel seasons 14, 18-19, 26 Junglebluesdream Art Gallery 187 Wehea Forest 237-8 plants 298 Keraton/Mulawarman Museum 231 Wind Cave Nature Reserve 153-4 politics 266 Kota Kinabalu Wetland Centre 44 Natuna Archipelago 243 Pom Pom 97 e IN

Negara 263 D Labuan Marine Museum 109 Pontianak 242-8, 244

Labuan Museum 109 newspapers 266, 302 population 266, 273 X Lau King Howe Memorial Ngaju Dayak people 274 Poring Hot Springs 65 M-S Museum 159 Niah National Park 171-3 proboscis monkeys 79-80, 296-7 Limbang Regional Museum 193 Nonya cuisine 285 prostitution 228 Malay Technology Museum 200 North Borneo Chartered Company 271 public holidays 306 Mulu Discovery Centre 181 Nunukan Island 241-2 pulau, see islands Museum Batiwakkal 238 Pulau Derawan 12, 240-1 Museum Lambung Mangkurat 263 O Pulau Labuan 109-12 Museum of Islamic Civilisation 44 oil palms 292-3 Pulau Sipadan 26-9, 93-5 Museum Provinsi Kalimantan opening hours 301-2 Putussibau 249-50 Barat 242-3 sanctuaries & reserves Niah Archaeology Museum 172 Sabah 12, 67, 77-8, 79, 83, 3, 12 Oil & Gas Discovery Centre 210 Sarawak 10, 149-50, 10 R Petroleum Museum 175 Kalimantan 251 rabies 319 Royal Regalia Museum 199 radio 302 114, 252, 295-6, 114-15 41 Rafflesias 155-6, 296 orchids 45, 65, 298, 115 Sarawak Museum 128 rafting 264, 8 Sarawak Textile Museum 125 Rahai’i Pangun 258 Sibu Heritage Centre 159 P Ramadan 199 , see temples & pagodas Tun Jugah Foundation 130 Ranau 65 palang 276 Twelve Roofs House 200-1 Regatta Lepa 94 Palangka Raya 256-9, 257 religion 266 palm oil 292-3 Islam 44, 129-30, 199, 267, 268, 269 N Pampang 227 Nabucco 12, 241-2 Christianity 267, 277-8, 280 Pangkalan Bun 255-6, 255 Dayak animism 275-7 national parks & reserves 290-1 parks & gardens Bako National Park 13, 142-6 rhinoceroses 297 Miri City Fan 174 rice 281, 282 Batang Ai National Park 158-9 Museum Garden 129 Danau Sentarum National Park 250 rice wine (tuak) 280, 283-4 Palmetum 152 river cruises, see boat tours Danum Valley Conservation Area Pangkalan Bun Park 255 10, 88-90, rock climbing 83 11 Taman Alun Kapuas 242 Gunung Gading National Park Ruko Bandar 220 Taman Tumbina 168 155-6 tropical garden 65 Gunung Mulu National Park 6, 23, Sabah Agricultural Park 105 24-5, 180-6, 2-3, 6-7 S passports 308-10 Sabah 34, 38-112, 39 Gunung Palung National Park 248 Patung Khatulistiwa 243 accommodation 38 Kinabalu National Park 9, 56-64, 9 peat forests 289 food 38 Kota Kinabalu Wetland Centre 44 189, 274 highlights 39 Kubah National Park 151-3 land rights 278 national parks 290 Kuching Wetlands National Park travel seasons 38 148-9 villages 194 weather 38 236-7 penanggalan 68 safety 306-7, 319-20 Lambir Hills National Park 173-4 permits, see also visas Bako National Park 144 Maliau Basin Conservation Area 6, Kinabalu National Park 57-8 101-3, 289 Upper Rejang 164 diving 319 Niah National Park 171-3 pigs 297 drinking water 320 Peradayan Forest Reserve 212 Pinnacles, the 184, 6-7 Kalimantan 220 Semenggoh Nature Reserve 10, pitcher plants 142, 288, 114 Muller Mountains 236 149-50, 10 planning 20-5 sago 281 Similajau National Park 169-71 Borneo basics 14-15 salt licks 190 Talang-Satang National Park 157-9 Borneo’s regions 34-5 Samarinda 225-8, 226 334 223 T V 71-7, 72 Talang-Satang National Park 157-9 vacations 306 Sandakan Archipelago 81-2 Tanjung Datu National Park 157 vaccinations 317 Sandakan death marches 74 Tanjung Harapan 252 vegetarian travellers 280, 286 Sandakan prison 271 Tanjung Isuy 233 via ferrata 61 Santubong Peninsula 146-8 Tanjung Lokan 250-1 visas 15, 308-10 Sarawak 35, 121-95, 122-3 Tanjung Puting National Park 13, volunteering 153, 158, 310 accommodation 121 251-4, 13 e IN climate 121 Tanjung Selor 242 D food 121 Tarakan 242 W X highlights 122-3 Tarawe, John 188 walking 40, see also trekking

S-Z tattoos 276 history 124 Warah Kubu 248 Tawau 97-101, national parks 291 97 wasp stings 319 taxis 313, 315, 316 Sarawak laksa 136, 284 water pollution 294 telephone services 15, 307-8 Sekonyer 252 waterfalls Teluk Air 248 156-7 Brunei 214 Temburong District 210-14 Sembakung 242 Sabah 42, 60, 91, 102, 105, temples & pagodas 101-2 Semenggoh Nature Reserve 10, Bintulu 168 Sarawak 156, 174, 181 149-50, 10 104 weather 14, 18-19, 288 Semporna 91-3, 92 Kota Kinabalu 44 Semporna Archipelago 26-9 websites, see internet resources Kuching 125 Senterbung 241 Wehea Forest 237-8 Kudat 69 weights 302 Sepilok 77-81, 78 Miri 175 Western Sarawak 142-59 Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Pontianak 242 Centre (SORC) 77-8, 3, 12 wet season 288 Sandakan 73 Seria 210 White Rajahs 269-70 Sibu 159, 118 Sibu 159-63 wildlife 20, 114-15, 218, 295-8, 67 114-15 Similajau National Park 169-71 Tenggarong 230-2 Singamata 95 wildlife sanctuaries & reserves, Tering 235 see also zoos Singkawang 246 ticks 319 Borneo Conservation Sipadan 26-9, 93-5 time zones 308 Centre 78-9 smoking 302 Tiong Ohang 235 KWPLH Sun Bear Sanctuary snorkelling 27, 116, 116-17 tipping 306 223 Layang Layang 70-1 toilets 308 Labuan Bird Park 110 Pulau Mantanani 70 tourist information 51-2, 308 Labuk Bay Pulau Manukan 54 tours 316 Sanctuary 79-80 Semporna Archipelago 93-7 train travel 53, 316 Matang Wildlife Centre 152-3 Sipadan 93-5 transmigrasi 272 Natural Frog Pond 152 Soeharto 272 travel to/from Borneo 311-12 Semenggoh Nature Reserve 10, spelunking 24-5 travel within Borneo 15, 312-16, 314 149-50, 10 squirrels 62 TreeTops Lodge 178 Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Stewart, Duncan 271 trekking 20-3 Centre (SORC) 77-8, 3, 12 stings & bites 319-20 Kalimantan 9, 219, 235-6, 263-4 Shangri La Rasa Ria Resort 67 strangler figs 298 Sabah 84, 89, 59-62, 101-2 Tabin Wildlife Reserve 90-1 sugarcane wine 284 Sarawak 144, 147, 154-5, 184, wildlife trade 294 190-3, 194 Sukadana 248-9 women travellers 310, 320 Tringgus 154-5 Sundaland 268 WWII 270-1 tuak (rice wine) 280, 283-4 Sungai Arot 255 memorials 65, 73, 110 Tuaran 67 Sungai Bungan 250-1 Sandakan death marches 74 Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park Sungai Kapuas 249-51 54-6 Sungai Kinabatangan 10, 82-7, 11 turtles 27, 81, 93, 28 Z Sungai Mahakam 228-35 Tutong District 209-10 zoos, see also wildlife sanctuaries & sustainable travel 29, 294 TV 302 reserves swans 161 Borneo Orangutan Survival U ­Foundation 257 Ulu Temburong National Park 212-14 Lok Kawi Wildlife Park 43-4 000 Map pages Unesco World Heritage sites 6, 180-6, Sabah Agricultural Park 105 000 Photo pages 288, 6 Taman Tumbina 168