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Helen van Lindere, Jeremy Clark, Peter Hogge OUR READERS and my guides Bian Rumai, Esther Abu, Many thanks to the travellers who used Jeffry Simun, Susan Pulut and Syria Lejau the last edition and wrote to us with help- (Gunung Mulu National Park); Apoi Ngimat, ful hints, useful advice and interesting Jaman Riboh, Joanna Joy, Rebita Lupong, anecdotes: Antonio Almeida, Alexandra Bardswell, Tamara Rian John Pasan Lamulun, Stephen and Tine, Bedeaux, Neesha Copley, Augusto Garolla, and Stu Roach (Bario); Mr Lim (Chong Teah), Paul Gurn, Lloyd Jones, Laurel Kinrade, Cyril Mr Chua (Eng Hin) and Ferdinand Gibson and Danielle Lousberg, Petra O’Neill, Bettina (Limbang); the dedicated staff of Sarawak’s Ortmann, Christine Overvelde, Glenn Owens, national parks; Glenn van Zutphen, Leonard Andrea Sanfilippo, Jeanie and Jim Schaden, Koh, Michelle Elias Solomon and Seng Beng Chronis Sofianidis, Fabian Spettel, Brian Yeo and their families (Singapore); and, Strating, Eileen Synnott, Maurice van Dael, finally, my beloved wife Rachel Safman, Johnno Van Havere, and Laszlo Wagner our son Yair Lev and my mother-in-law Edie Safman (Los Angeles). AUTHOR THANKS Adam Karlin Terima kasih: Katie King, rockstar contact Daniel Robinson who redefines break dancing; the people Scores of people went out of their way to who gave me insight, Charlie Ryan, Jessica make this a better book, but I’m especially in- Yew, Tom, Joel, Silas and Howard, I’m greatly debted to Amélie Blanc, Borbala Nyiri, Donald privileged to have met you, and to have had and Marina Tan, Eric and Annie Yap, Jacque- the opportunity to explore your island with line Fong, Jo-Lynn Liao, Kelvin Egay, Polycarp, you; Angelica, the baddest ass bartender Mathew Ngau Jau, Philip Yong, Thomas Ulrich in Oakland, thanks for the laughs; Alex and Vernon Kedit (Kuching); Jessie, Noriza Zawadzki, Daniele Cohen, Serge, Johnny and Peter Tiong (Sibu); Paul Chuo, Sandra and the rest, your company was always Kromdijk, Vincent Tiong and Wouter Mullink hilarious; Mom and Dad, thanks for your (Kapit); Camille de Kerchove, Captain David constant support; and Rachel, for your love, (Bennet), Elyn Chan and family, and Mrs and your voice every morning and evening Lee (Miri); Amy McGoldrick, Antonella Mori, when I’m away. 329 Paul Stiles ACKNOWLEDGMENTS My thanks to the many people who guided Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, me safely from one end of Kalimantan to the Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated other, and back again: Lucas, Rahim, Ahmad, World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Kaya and family, Alex, Erwin, Gaye, Aini, Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Shady. To my coauthors, for all their valuable Sciences, .11, 1633 44 advice and comments along the way. And Cover photograph: Danum Valley, Frans to Ilaria, for making the Cross-Borneo Trek Lanting/National Geographic Stock possible. BEHN T I d h e SC e N e S Health chapter, which was then Managing Layout THIS BOOK revised by Daniel Robinson. This Jane Hart This 3rd edition of Lonely Designer guidebook was commissioned in Planet’s Borneo guidebook Cover Research Naomi Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, was researched and written Parker and produced by the following: by a stellar team of intrepid Internal Image Research travel experts who have an un- Commissioning Editors Aude Vauconsant Suki Gear, Ilaria Walker paralleled passion for adventure Language Content and the wilder parts of the Coordinating Editors Branislava Vladisavljevic world. LP veteran, passionate Catherine Naghten, Gabrielle eco-traveller and Borneo- phile Stefanos Elin Berglund, Daniel Robinson led the team. Coordinating Carto- Thanks to Jasna Bratic, Rebecca Chau, He researched Sarawak, and grapher James Leversha wrote the Plan, Understand and Lauren Egan, Ryan Evans, Larissa Coordinating Layout Survival Guide chapters. Paul Frost, Chris Girdler, Bronwyn Designer Clara Monitto Stiles survived his crazy research Hicks, Genesys India, Jouve India, trip to Kalimantan, and the hilari- Managing Editors Eva Murphy, Mardi O’Connor, ous and charming Adam Karlin Sasha Baskett, Bruce Evans Trent Paton, Kirsten Rawlings, researched Sabah and wrote the Managing Cartographers Raphael Richards, Kate Sullivan, Diving Pulau Sipadan chapter. Anita Bahn, Diana von Holdt Gerard Walker Dr Trish Batchelor wrote the 330 Bario 186-90 British North Borneo Company 270 Batang Ai region 158-9 Brooke family 269-70 Batang Duri 212 Brooke, James 269, 270, 270 Batang Rejang 163-8 Brunei 35, 196-214, 197 bathrooms 308 accommodation 196 bats 84, 108, 172, 182, 295 climate 196 Batu Daya 248 food 196 Bau 153-5 highlights 197 Bawang Assan Longhouse Village national parks 290 159-60 Brunei Museum 199, 202 beaches budgeting 14, 301, 304 Bako National Park 145 Bulungan 242 Balikpapan 220 1Malaysia 267 bus travel 313-14 Kemala Beach 220 business hours 301-2 Lundu 155 butterflies 65 A Muara 202 ABC 286 Pulau Datok Beach 248 accommodation 300-1, see also Pulau Manukan 54 C individual locations cakes 137, 284 activities 20-5 Santubong Peninsula 146 Similajau National Park 169-71 camping 301 air pollution 293 canopy walks 20, 65, 89, 102 air travel 15, 235, 311, 312 Tanjung Aru 45 bearded pigs 297 car travel 315 alcohol 280 caves 24-5, 182-4 ambuyat 205 bee stings 319 Belaga 167 Batu Tulug 82-3 animals 295-7, see also Clearwater Cave 182 individual animals Belait District 209-10 Deer Cave 6, 182 Annah Rais Longhouse 150-1 Berau 238-9, 239 Fairy Cave 154 area codes 15, 307-8 bicycle travel 312, 316 Gomantong Caves 84 art galleries, see museums & galleries Bidayuh people 274 Lang’s Cave 182 ASRI 249 Bilit 85-6 Niah National Park 171-3 ATMs 306 Bintulu 168-9, 170 show caves 182 biofuel 293 Wind Cave (Bau) 153-4 bird watching b Wind Cave (Gunung Mulu) 182 Danum Valley Conversation Area 89 Ba Kelalan 190 cell phones 15, 307-8 Gomantong Caves 84 Bahasa Indonesia 321 cemeteries 71-2, 130, 110 Kelabit Highlands 187 Bahasa Malaysia 321 children, travel with 302, 320 Kinabalu National Park 61-2 Bako National Park 13, 142-6 Chinese cuisine 285-6 Mt Kinabalu 62 balan-balan 68 Chinese museums 124 Tawau Hills Park 101 Balikpapan 220-5, 221 Chinese people 118, 266-7, 268, bamboo chicken 281 birds 298, see also individual birds 270 Bandar Labuan 109, 110 bites & stings 319-20 Chinese New Year 132 Bandar Seri Begawan 198-209, 200-1 boat tours 10, 25, 11 Christianity 267, 277-8, 280 accommodation 203-4 Sungai Kahayan 258 climate 14, 18-19, 288 activities 198-202 Sungai Kinabatangan 83-4 climate change 312 drinking 206 Sungai Mahakam 229-30, 231, 235 consulates 303 food 204-6 Sungai Rungan 258 cooking courses 131 internet access 207 Tanjung Puting National Park 253 coral reefs 116, 288, 116-17 medical services 207 boat travel 311-12, 312-13, 316 costs 14, 301, 304 shopping 206 Bobo 251 credit cards 14, 305-6 sights 198-202 body art 276 crocodiles 144, 149, 153, 170, 223, 307 tourist information 207 Bohebekut 241 Cross-Borneo Trek 9, 219 tours 202-3 Bohesilian 241 cultural villages, see also travel to/from 208-9 Bolkiah, Sultan Hassanal 19, 272 longhouses travel within 208-9 books 21, 273, 274, 295 Mari Mari Cultural Village 41-2 Bangar 211-12 border crossings 314 Monsopiad Cultural Village 44 Banjarmasin 259-62, 261 Brunei–Sabah 112, 207 Sarawak Cultural Village 146-7, 278 Brunei–Sarawak 181, 208 culture 118, 273-80, 118-19 Sabah–Kalimantan 100 currency 14, 15, 305-6 Map pages 000 Sabah–Philippines 77 customs regulations 302 000 Photo pages Sarawak–Kalimantan 151, 193 cycling, see bicycle travel 331 d mosques 225 Sabah 66, 86, 96, 105, 111 dangers 306-7 pointing 266 Sarawak 148, 150, 151, 154, 157, 159, Danum Valley Conservation Area 10, European colonisation 268-70 173, 188, 190, 191 88-90, 11 events, see festivals & events hornbills 114, 277, 298, 115 Data Dawai 235 exchange rates 15 hot springs Dayak people 13, 118, 266-7, 273-80, Muara Tanuhi Hot Springs 264 13, 119 Poring 65 agriculture 278 f Tawau Hills Park 101 ferns 283, 298 body art 276 hydroelectric dams 293-4 INe ferries 311-12 cuisine 134, 280, 281-4 d festivals & events 18-19, 306 languages 14 X Baleh-Kapit Raft Safari 165 religion 275-7 I D-K Chinese New Year 132 Iban people 273, 276, death marches 74 113 Erau Festival 231 independence 272 deforestation 292 Gawai Dayak 280 indigenous peoples 273-80 dehydration 319 Kuching Festival Fair 132 Indonesian language 321 demographics 266-7 Rainforest World Music Festival Indo-Pacific basin 29 dengue fever 318 132 insect bites 319-20 Derawan Archipelago 12, 29, first-aid kits 317-18 239-42, 12 insurance 304, 317 flags 310 diamonds 263,