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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Brett Atkinson Many thanks to the travellers who used the Terima kasih to a whole cast of characters who last edition and wrote to us with helpful assisted me on this trip. In Kota Bharu, cheers hints, useful advice and interesting an- to Zeck and Bob, and on the Perhentian islands, ecdotes: A Adelien Vandeweghe, Ali Thorn, thank you to Neil, Shauna – especially for the Ankur Agarwal, Anne & David Brock, Anouk van scissors – Raymond and Seh Ling. In Kuala Lammeren B Bas Zeper C Christopher Moore Terengganu, many thanks to Alex and Maslina D Dave Krantz E Eamon McCann, Erik Eskin for the company and conversation. Thanks to F Frank Genghis J Jan Timmermans, Jan van Sarah Reid and the wider editorial and cartog- den Heuij, John Bone, Jurgen Bruyninx K Karri raphy team, and final thanks to Carol and my Viitala & Maiju Monto M Marcus Feaver, Mark family back home in Selandia Baru. Cohen, Melissa & Dominic Pepper O Oscar Page P Peter Daemen R Remko Donga, Roger Greg Benchwick Lewis S Samuel Wainstein, Sapideh Gilani, Huge thanks to my Destination Editor Sarah Soren Braun, Stéphanie Visser T Tarsis Arroo for putting her faith in me on this project (my W Wilfried Vancraeynest first in the region). The people of Malaysia are super friendly. I really want to thank Joe at the Kuantan Visitor Center, and the entire crew of AUTHOR THANKS rip-roarious irregulars at EcoBar in Cherating. Isabel Albiston And first and always, thank you my darling Thanks to everyone who helped out along the Violeta for making my life so rich. Love, Daddy. way, especially Narelle McMurtrie, Mrs Lee, Stephen Baya and Tine Hjetting, Mado in Pa Cristian Bonetto Lungan, Dina Bailey, Chongteah Lim, Leslie A heartfelt thankyou to Helen Burge, Craig Chiang, Anthony Chieng, Polycarp Teo Sebum Bradbery, Honey Lee, Carolyn Ng, Sharon Vu, and Louise, Jacqueline Fong and Jo-Lynn Liao. Myra Tan, Andy Yeo, Michelle Chua, Richie Cheers also to Stefan Arestis and Sebastien Raupe, Seb Neylan, Stephane Hasselsweiler Chaneac for making me laugh and to my and Dean Brettschneider. Many thanks also friends and family for their love and support. to my patient, supportive family and to Sarah Lastly, huge thanks to Sarah and Simon. Reid for the commission. 623 Austin Bush Simon Richmond Thanks to the kind folks on the ground in Terima kasih to the following: Nozara Yusof, Malaysia and abroad including Joann Khaw, Alex Yong, Andrew Sebastian, Narelle Mc- Bee Yinn Low, Narelle McMurtrie, Chris Murtrie, Gregers Reimann and Scott Dunn. Ong, Wanida Razali, Khoo Salma and Ernest Zacharevic. Richard Waters Sincere thanks to Eljer for his patience and BEHIND THE SCENES Anita Isalska skill, Daniken for keeping my dinner warm, My research was much richer thanks to Mr Diana without whose help much of this trip David at Sekeping Kong Heng, Noor Rashiela would have been so much harder, Arwen, Binti Mohd Salleh and the Tourism Malay- Walter and staff, Kurt (easily the best wildlife sia team, Steve Khong, Shaukani Abbas, guide in 15 years’ travel writing), Mr Reward K Rajasegaran, Jek Yap, Jay and the Father’s and brother James Bond, tireless Bobby who Guesthouse crew. Big thanks to Seow Wei braved the mudslides and aftershocks to take Tang and family for tips and karaoke, and me to Mt K, Charlie and Jess for all their fab- Simon Richmond for thoughtful guidance. ulous help, Brodie, Emma and Sadie for their Nora, who gave me cola when I was slipping lovely co, Jan for his hospitality and Ellen for unconscious with Jerantut nausea, danke. her reef, Tom, Fanny and finally Carmalita, And Normal Matt, for KL rooftop cocktails Mr Robin and May at Sabah Tourism for their and boundless cheer. fantastic support. Robert Scott Kelly For this book, the dedications are simple. All ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS my love and thanks go to Tania Simonetti, Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, wife and companion on my most important Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- travels in this world, and to our infant son, ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Robin Francesco, born beautiful and healthy Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System on 20 July 2015, while this guidebook was Sciences, 11, 163344. taking shape. Cover photograph: Food market in Kota Bharu, Peter Adams/AWL © 624 BEHIND THE SCENES Joshua Samuel Brown, Austin Rawlings, Fionnuala Twomey, THIS BOOK Bush, Adam Karlin and Daniel Simon Williamson This 13th edition of Lonely Robinson. This guidebook was Cartographer Michael Garrett produced by the following: Planet’s Malaysia, Singapore Assisting Book Designer & Brunei guidebook was re- Destination Editor Sarah Reid Wibowo Rusli searched and written by Isabel Product Editors Kathryn Cover Researcher Albiston, Brett Atkinson, Greg Rowan, Elizabeth Jones Naomi Parker Benchwick, Cristian Bonetto, Senior Cartographer Julie Anita Banh, Car- Austin Bush, Anita Isalska, Thanks to Sheridan olyn Boicos, Grace Dobell, Robert Scott Kelly, Simon Mazzy Prinsep Ryan Evans, Andi Jones, Anne Richmond and Richard Waters. Book Designer Mason, Kate Matthews, Jenna The previous edition was writ- Assisting Editors Sarah Myers, Wayne Murphy, Cath- ten by Simon Richmond, Cris- Bailey, Melanie Dankel, Carly erine Naghten, Karyn Noble, tian Bonetto, Celeste Brash, Hall, Gabrielle Innes, Rosie Ni- cholson, Charlotte Orr, Kirsten Vicky Smith, Lauren Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 625 Index A Blue Mansion 159, 4-5 Batang Rejang 434-9 birdwatching 37, 110, 368, accommodation Clanhouses 165 bats 444, 523, 523 453 heritage hotels 173 George Town 159, 165, Batu Caves 18, 107-8, 18 Blue Mansion 159, 4-5 language 615-16 173 Batu Ferringhi 184-6 boat tours Malaysia 598-9 Peranakan Terrace Batu Maung 189 Bako National Park 416 Houses 509 Acheen St Mosque 163 Batu Punggul 16, 386 Bandar Seri Begawan 475 Putrajaya 113-14 activities 31-7, see also Bau 424-5 Putrajaya 113 Stadthuys 217 individual activities beaches Kota Kinabalu 321 Villa Sentosa 222 adventure tours Bako 35, 416 Kuching Wetlands area codes 21 National Park 419 Kota Kinabalu 320, 321 Coral Beach 143, 144 art Langkawi 199 Kuala Lipis 277, 278 Damai Central Beach 418 street 23-4, 65, Port Dickson 121 Pulau Langkawi 200 23 Pantai Pasir Hitam 196 arts 587-91 Similajau National Park air quality 594 Pantai Pasir Tengkorak 442 air travel 605, 606-7 Asian Civilisations Museum 195 493 Ulu Temburong National airlines 606 Pasir Bogak 143 ATMs 601 Park 486 airports 605 Peranginan Pantai Muara Ayer Keroh 233 boat travel 606, 607 alcohol 40 474 boating 37 Alor Gajah 234 Pulau Gaya 332 books 562, 564 Alor Setar 208-12, Pulau Kapas 303 209 B border crossings 605 ambuyat 477 Ba Kelalan 464-5 Pulau Langkawi 192-7 Brunei 392, 451, 480 amusement parks Baba & Nyonya Heritage Pulau Mamutik 331 Indonesia 381, 412, 464 A’Famosa Resort 234 Museum 221 Pulau Manukan 331 Singapore 240 Berjaya Times Square Baba House 499-500 Pulau Perhentian 292- Thailand 211, 213, 289 Theme Park 67 Bako National Park 413-17 300, 293 Brickfields 60-3, 75, 90, Escape (Penang) 187 Balik Pulau 188 Pulau Sapi 331-2 98-9, 61 Legoland 237 Bandar Labuan 389-90, Pulau Satang 428-9 Brunei 48, 468-87 Oriental Village 193 390 Pulau Talang-Talang 429 accommodation 468, 487 Universal Studios 514-15 Bandar Seri Begawan 470- Pulau Tioman 251-60, climate 468 animals 6, 24, 32, 343, 82, 472 252 emergencies 487 423, 520-5, 593, see accommodation 476-7 Sentosa beaches 515 also individual species, activities 474-5 Similajau Beach 441 food 88, 468, 487 wildlife sanctuaries & drinking 479 Teluk Assam Beach 416 gay travellers 487 reserves, zoos entertainment 479 Teluk Bahang 186-8 highlights 469 Animism 585 holidays 487 food 477-9 Teluk Nipah 143, 144 apes, see orangutans legal matters 487 shopping 479-80 Beaufort 386 aquariums lesbian travellers 487 sights 470-4 Beaufort Division 386-8 Aquaria KLCC 59-60 money 487 tours 475-6 bedbugs 613 SEA Aquarium 513-14 tourist information 487 travel to/from 480-1 Belaga 438-9 architecture 22, 105, travel seasons 468 travel within 481-2 Belum-Temenggor 588, see also historic Rainforest 154-5 visas 487 buildings Bangar 484-5 bicycle tours 321, 403 Buddhism 170 Bangunan Sultan Ibrahim Bangsar Baru 75, 90-1, 94-5, budget 21 237 98-9, 91 Bidayuh people 579 Bario 458-62 Bidong Island 311 Bukit Larut 153-4 bars 93 Bintulu 439-41, 440 Bukit Nanas 75-6 Map Pages 000 Batang Ai Region 429-30 birds 523, see also bus travel 605, 607 Photo Pages 000 Batang Duri 485-6 individual species business hours 602 626 butterflies 527, 526 Chinatown Heritage Centre