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Behind the Scenes ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 328 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Loren Bell Terima kasih banyak dua kali to every person Many thanks to the travellers who used I met while on the road – from local guides, the last edition and wrote to us with help- to the villagers who kept refilling my glass ful hints, useful advice and interesting with tuak, to the taxi driver who brought his anecdotes: extended family on our excursion. You are A Aisling Kelly, Amar Bakir B Barbara too numerous to name, but it’s the people of Wolfke, Brodie Lea C Connie Early D Dan- Kalimantan that make this place amazing. And iel Jespersen E Erhard Trittibach K Kevin a special thank you to Kari – for your love, sup- Sarkin M Maarten Verboven, Megan port and patience, even when I might not have Mooney P Pieter Heesterbeek R Robin deserved it. Hedges S Sarah Richardson, Shira Salingre, Steve Athey V Valerio Magliola W Wolfgang Richard Waters Schweitzer Sincere thanks to Eljer for his patience and skill, Daniken for keeping my dinner warm, Di- ana without whose help much of this trip would AUTHOR THANKS have been so much harder, Arwen, Walter and staff, Kurt (easily the best wildlife guide in 15 Isabel Albiston years’ travel writing), Mr Reward and brother Thanks to everyone who helped out along the James Bond, tireless Bobby who braved the way, especially Mrs Lee, Stephen Baya and mudslides and aftershocks to take me to Mt Tine Hjetting, Mado in Pa Lungan, Dina Bailey, K, Charlie and Jess for all their fabulous help, Chongteah Lim, Leslie Chiang, Anthony Chieng, Brodie, Emma and Sadie for their lovely co, Jan Polycarp Teo Sebum and Louise, Jacqueline for his hospitality and Ellen for her reef, Tom, Fong and Jo-Lynn Liao. Cheers also to Stefan Fanny and finally Carmalita, Mr Robin and May Arestis and Sebastien Chaneac for making me at Sabah Tourism for their fantastic support. laugh and to my friends and family for their love and support. Lastly, huge thanks to Sarah and Simon. 329 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. BEHIND THE SCENES Cover photograph: A young orangutan in Tanjung Puting National Park, Central Kalim- antan, Nigel Parvitt/AWL. Adam Karlin. This guidebook Bain, Katie Connolly, Saralinda THIS BOOK was produced by the following: Turner This 4th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Sarah Reid Cover Researcher Naomi Planet’s Borneo guidebook Product Editors Grace Dobell, Parker was researched and written Elizabeth Jones Thanks to Shahara Ahmed, by Isabel Albiston, Loren Bell Senior Cartographer Julie Brendan Dempsey, Jenna and Richard Waters. The 3rd Sheridan Myers, Darren O’Connell, edition was written by Daniel Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Ridg- Book Designer Wibowo Rusli Robinson, Paul Styles and way, Kathryn Rowan, Angela Assisting Editors Andrew Tinson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 330 Index A shopping 209-10 boat tours 18, 30, 32 C accommodation 302-3, see sights 200-4 Bako National Park 142 cakes 133 also individual locations tours 205-6 Bandar Andar Seri Camp Leakey 233 language 322 travel to/from 210-11 Begawan 205 canopy walks activities 20-1, 26-32, see travel within 211-12 Kota Kinabalu 47 Danum Valley also individual activities Bangar 214-15 Kuching Wetlands Conservation Area 94 air travel 312-13 Banjarbaru 246-7 National Park 145 Kinabalu National Park 68 Niah National Park 168 ambuyat 207 Banjarmasin 240-4, 242 Maliau Basin Sungai Kinabatangan animal sanctuaries Bario 184-8 Conservation Area 109 13, 87-8 Borneo Sun Bear Batang Ai region 155-6, 13 Mulu Canopy Skywalk Conservation Centre Ulu Temburong National 180, Batang Duri 215-16 31 82-3 Park 216 Tawau 104 Batang Rejang 160-5 Kota Kinabalu Wetland boat travel 313, 316 Ulu Temburong National bathrooms 309 Centre 43 body art 282-3 Park 216 bats 170 Labuk Bay Proboscis books 27, 270, 277 car travel 315-16 Monkey Sanctuary 83-4 Batu Ampar 230 border crossings 190, 312-3, cathedrals, see churches & Sepilok Orangutan Batu Daya 230 314 cathedrals Rehabilitation Centre Bau 150-1 Brunei–Sabah 210, 211 cats 129 14, 81-2, 14 beaches Brunei–Sarawak 212 caves 8-9, 19, 180-1 animals 64, 69, 149, , see 31 Damai Central Beach 144 Sabah–Brunei 118 Bau 150 also individual animals Kemala Beach 247 Sabah–Kalimantan 107 Sungai Kinabatangan animism 282 Kudat 72 Sabah–Philippines 80 86, 87 area codes 17, 308-9 Mañana Beach 70 Sarawak–Brunei 177 Merabu 264 art galleries, see museums Pantai Seri Kenangan 212 Sarawak–Kalimantan Niah National Park 169 & galleries Peranginan Pantai Muara 137, 190 caving 30, 150, 179, 181 ATMs 306 204 Bornean cuisine 285-9 cell phones 16, 308-9 Pulau Datok Beach 231 Brunei 38, 198-217, 198, cemeteries B Similajau Beach 167-8 199 Chinese Cemetery Ba Kelalan 190-1 Tanjung Aru 46 accommodation 198, 217 (Sandakan) 75-6 Bahasa Indonesia 321-7 Teluk Assam Beach 142 emergencies 217 Japanese Cemetery Bahasa Malaysia 321-7 Beaufort 112-13 food 198, 217 (Sandakan) 76-7 Bako National Park 139-43 Beaufort Division 112-14 gay travellers 217 WWII Memorial (Labuan War Cemetery) 116 Balikpapan 247-51, 248 Belaga 164-5 highlights 199, 199 Cempaka Diamond Fields Bandar Labuan 115-16, 116 Belait District 212-4 holidays 217 246 Bandar Seri Begawan Berau 262-4, 263 legal matters 217 Central Sarawak 156-178 200-12, 202 bicycle tours 47, 129 lesbian travellers 217 children, travel with 303, accommodation 206-7 bicycle travel 313 money 217 320 activities 204-5 Bidayuh people 277-9 tourist information 217 Chinese cuisines 288-9 climate 198 Bintulu 165-7, 166 travel seasons 198 Chinese New Year 20 drinking 209 birds 87 visas 217 churches & cathedrals entertainment 209 birdwatching budgeting 17, 303, 305 St Michael’s & All Angels food 207-9 Danum Valley Bukit Gemok Forest Reserve Church 77 Conservation Area 94 information 210 104-5 St Thomas’s Cathedral Gunung Mulu National bus travel 315 128 Park 179 business hours 306-7 climate 16, 20-1, 119, see Map Pages 000 Kelabit Highlands 190 also individual regions Photo Pages 000 Sabah 69 331 conservation 290 E H Pulau Sipadan 33-6, consulates 304 East Kalimantan 247-67 habitats 291-2 98-100, 35 cooking courses 47, 128 Eastern Sabah 75-118 halal food 288 Pulau Talang-Talang 155 coral 194, 194-5 economy 270 Hari Raya Puasa 20-1 Pulau Tiga National Park 114-15 costs 16, 17, 306 ecotourism 90, 230, 231, Harvest Festival 20 Crocker Range National 298 hawker centres 52 itineraries 22-5, 6-7, 22, 23, 24, 25 INDEX Park 110 electricity 304 headhunting 280, 284 crocodiles 167 embassies 304 health 317-20 Cross-Borneo Trek 15, emergencies insurance 317 J C-K 223, 15 language 323-4 heat stroke 319 Jalan Labi 212-14 cultural villages, see also environmental issues 239, hiking, see trekking Jantur 258 longhouses 296-8, 319-20 historic buildings Jerudong 205 Mari Mari Cultural etiquette 300 jungle river trips 30, 32 Village 43 Astana 128 events, see festivals & events Lamin Batu Bura 258-9 jungle walks 141, 144, 178 Monsopiad Cultural exchange rates 17, 306 Village 43 Mancong Longhouse 259 Sarawak Cultural Village Old Court House K Complex 122 143-4 F Kadazan people 277, 282 Square Tower 122 culture 18, 196-7, 196-7 festivals & events 20-1 Kalimantan 38, 218-68, currency 16 Baleh-Kapit Raft Safari history 78, 272-6 218, 220-1 customs regulations 303 162 hitching 316 accommodation 218 cycling, see bicycle tours, Bario Food Festival 186 holidays 307-8 culture 219 Borneo Cultural Festival homestays 90, see also bicycle travel highlights 220-1, 220-1 157 longhouses history 219 Borneo International Kite hot springs 67-8 safety 222 D Festival 165 Muara Tanuhi 245 dangers 34, 102, 308 travel seasons 218 Borneo Jazz 174 Poring 67 Danum Valley Conservation travel to/from 219, 222 Chinese New Year 129 Tawau Hills Park 107 Area 11, 92-5, 11 travel within 222 Erau International Folk & hydroelectric dams 298 Dayak culture 277-9, 285-7, Art Festival 256 wildlife 219 19, 197 Gawai Dayak Festival Kampong Ayer 200 death marches 78 223, 279 I Kampong Buli Sim Sim 77 decolonisation 275 Rainforest World Music Iban people 282-3 Kampung Annah Rais 146-7 deforestation 296 Festival 130 immigration 312 Kampung Benuk 146 dehydration 319 Regatta Lepa 100 independence 276 Kandangan 244-5 Derawan Archipelago 14, films 270 indigenous culture 18 Kapalai 103, 195 265-7, 15 first-aid kits 317-8 Indonesian language 321-7 Kapit 160-5, 161 demographics 271 floating homestays 259 insurance 305, 317 Kapuas Hulu 222 disabilities, travellers flora & fauna
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