SWITZERLAND 2019-20

www.liberoguide.com 2019-20 www.liberoguide.com INTRO

St Jakob Park

and low gates. Unlike in Scotland, the season isn’t split after Christmas. In 2019, Young Boys won the league with seven games to spare.

Stadio Cornaredo In addition, the Swiss champions do not gain an automatic slot in the group Dominated by FC from 2010 considered footballing royalty, ‘GC’ 2019 promotees Servette represent stage of the Champions League. Local onwards, the were relegated in 2019. picture-postcard . neutrals welcomed Berne’s success, was won in 2018-19 by long-term bringing competition and variety. also-rans Young Boys, the flagship St Gallen have long overtaken Sion, capital of the Valais, home canton club of the national capital, Berne. Grasshoppers as top dogs in of disgraced ex-FIFA boss Sepp Blatter, that created the universal mantra to For foreign neutrals, away from the big Switzerland’s far north-east, up by is one of three current top-tier clubs back the national team, ‘Hopp Schwiiz!!’. two in Basel and Berne, Swiss football Basel is the hotbed of Swiss football, the German border. Like several from French-speaking Switzerland. With We’re not in Hamburg anymore, Toto. is a quaint throwback. No, it’s not its St Jakob Park, known by all as others, FCSG play in a new-build representing Italianate Ticino, cheap, but then nothing in Switzerland the ‘Joggeli’, providing the fieriest stadium. the ten-team Swiss Super League is Like in Scotland, the modest size of the is. The beer will be decent, the cervelat atmosphere for the Swiss national a microcosm of Switzerland’s (mainly) league means that teams meet each sausage too. team as well as FCB. The other Some, such as , Lugano, three-language divide. other more than once home and away. populist side is FC , who share Neuchâtel and Thun, have gorgeous This four-game fixture set-up has been Station to stadium the stadium with record Alpine backdrops, within reach of Supporters from six teams chant in the looked at by the Swiss Football League, Switzerland is well served by budget champions Grasshoppers. Once a lake served by sightseeing boats. same quirky form of Alemannic German worried by the Basel/Berne monopoly airlines, with hubs in Basel, Geneva

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Letzigrund, Zürich Lugano INTRO

BASEL ZÜRICH

ST GALLEN NEUCHÂTEL BERNE LUCERNE

THUN

The bottom two from each regional GENEVA LUGANO SION division of the 1.Liga Classic demote to the amateur 2.Liga Interregional, currently consisting of six regional groups. Each winner goes up to the fourth flight at the end of the season.

Challenge League, the ninth- the ninth-placed plays off over two Below this level, the Swiss league and Zürich. Connecting all major They are sold at petrol stations, post placed plays off over two legs legs with the CL runners-up. pyramid fans out into a myriad towns, Swiss Rail (sbb.ch/en/home. offices and customs posts. with the CL runners-up. Also regional groups, from the sixth-flight html) offers Supersaver tickets online. consisting of ten teams who The bottom two clubs of the 2.Liga to the ninth-tier 5.Liga. Those paying full fare can at least take Tables & trophies play each other home and away Promotion League demote to advantage of the City-Ticket scheme The Swiss Super League consists of twice, the Challenge League the fourth-tier 1.Liga. Their The , the Schweizer Pokal, that incorporates urban transport at ten teams who play each other home currently includes FC from replacements are decided by play- begins with qualifying rounds within your destination and/or setting-off point. and away twice. As of 2017-18, the , who can qualify for off, as the 1.Liga (aka 1.Liga Classic each level of the nine-rung pyramid winners no longer gain automatic the Europa League by winning the or Erste Liga, Première Ligue, Prima – between the hundreds of clubs Areas not covered by rail are served admission into the group stage of the national cup organised by the tiny Lega) comprises three regional within the 2.Liga, the 3.Liga, and so by PostBus (www.postauto.ch/en), League but must enter at the second principality. groups, roughly French-speaking on – before 64 teams take part in regional buses run by the Swiss Post qualifying round. Super League West, Central (German) and East August’s Round 1. This involves all Office. Some are also the main transport runners-up join the Europa League The lowest-placed team in the (German, Italian and Liechtenstein). Super League clubs from two seasons provider in smaller towns, such as Thun. second qualifying round, the third- second tier demotes to the third The top two from each of these before, the previous season’s top four Larger cities have a tram network. placed side into the first qualifying rung, the Promotion League, whose divisions go forward to the eight- from the Promotion League, plus the round. The winners of the Swiss Cup 16 teams face each other on the team play-off round, accompanied by 40 to have won through by qualifying. Swiss motorways require drivers to by go into the EL third qualifying round. traditional home-and-away basis. the two best third-placed finishers. an annual tax disc (vignette) of SF40, The reserve sides of top clubs such Play-offs are home-and-away, the As for Rounds 2 and 3, the draw is valid from December 1 of the previous The last-placed team from the top as Basel and FC Zürich cannot gain semi-finals producing four winners, seeded, lower-level clubs granted year to January 31 of the following one. division drops into the second-tier promotion to the Challenge League, the finals two. home advantage, ties decided over

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Lugano INTRO

Au Celtique

Facilities are generally excellent, with CONTENTS beer and wine sold at stadium bars. 4 Basel Given the overhaul of four stadiums for 5 FC Basel

Stadio Cornaredo Euro 2008, you’ll be watching the game 6 Berne in comfort, perhaps with an Alpine 7 Young Boys backdrop. 8 Geneva one game, with extra-time and for the winter break before Christmas, re-starting in early February and 9 Servette penalties if required. the spring season starting up in early running until mid to late May. Welcome to liberoguide.com! 10 Lucerne February and running until mid to The digital travel guide for football 11 FC Luzern Giantkilling is rare. The quarter-finals late May. Match days are Saturdays Entry level fans, liberoguide.com is the most 12 Lugano are also one-game affairs, invariably and Sundays, the usual kick-off Apart from big games involving up-to-date resource, city-by-city, club- 13 FC Lugano involving top-flight clubs. Semi-finals times being 4pm or 7pm. Occasional FC Basel and Young Boys Berne, by-club, to the game across Europe. 14 Neuchâtel are over one leg, home advantage midweek games, on Wednesdays and availability is rarely a problem and Using only original photos and first- 15 Neuchâtel Xamax drawn for. The final in May is staged at a Thursdays, are scheduled for 8pm. pay-on-the-day the norm. Cash hand research, taken and undertaken 16 St Gallen showcase stadium, the Stade de Suisse payments are in Swiss francs. Nearly over five seasons, liberoguide.com 17 FC St Gallen in Berne or the Stade de Genève. The Challenge League synchronises all clubs offer advance sales, online has been put together to enhance 18 Sion its July kick-off with the top tier. The and in person. every football weekend and Euro 19 FC Sion Season’s dealings weekly schedule runs from Friday to night experience. From airport to 20 Thun The Swiss Super League starts early, Monday evenings at 7pm and 8pm. A place behind the goals is usually arena, downtown sports bar to hotel, 21 FC Thun usually in late July, even as early as Some Sunday games start at 4pm. The around SF25, prices rising to around liberoguide.com helps you get the best 22 Zürich the third week if it’s a tournament winter break comes a week earlier SF50-SF60 on the sidelines. Home out of your visit to football’s furthest 23 Letzigrund summer the following June. All stops than the Super League’s, everything fans generally have a standing area. corners and showcase stadiums. 24 FC Zürich

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Basel SBB station tramline for St Jakob, the Radisson BASEL Blu, has a pool and gym.

Also central but cheaper, the Stadthof near Barfüsserplatz occupies a landmark building dating back to 1295.

By picturesque Rheingasse, the historic Hotel Merian am Rhein has balconied rooms overlooking the river.

Hotels surround the SBB station. These include upscale chains such as the Dorint as well as traditional railway hotels such as the Euler, the runs to the main Basel SBB (Swiss rail) Schweizerhof and the Victoria. The station. Tickets are available from the conversion of the venerable Helvetia to desk in Arrivals or the machine at the the self check-in b-smart motel Basel, stop outside the terminal. however, is a sign of the times.

Based near St Jakob, Taxi-Zentrale (+41 Beer 61 222 2222) charges SF45 from airport Barfüsserplatz is dotted with to city. restaurants and cafés – the timeless Rio (No.12) the best bar, the beerhall of German trains use Basel Bad station, on Zum Braunen Mutz the best pub. Turkey. Four months later, Basel faced The St Jakob stadium was built for the the other side of the Rhine. Basel their historic cousins FC Barcelona 1954 World Cup, seeing 44 goals in For TV sport, Swiss pub chain Mr in the Champions League. The two six games. These included the hosts City transport consists of trams and Pickwick on bar-lined Steinenvorstadt Basel may adjoin France and Germany clubs were formed by the same man, dumping Italy out of the competition, buses. A day pass is SF9.90, a single displays retro football artefacts. Nearby but this Rhine river port is the hotbed Johannes (‘Hans’) Kamper, a young 4-1. The game established the Joggeli’s ticket SF3.80 but local hotels offer a Jerry’s is where the Swiss go to watch of Swiss football. St Jakob Park, home Swiss entrepreneur. On November 12, credentials as a real football ground, Mobility Ticket giving checking-in big matches. It’s also a decent late- of eight-time consecutive champions 1893, he saw an ad in the National- with crowd scenes never before seen in guests free use of public transport. night cocktail spot. The prominent Irish FC Basel and stage for the 2016 Europa Zeitung asking to form a football club, sleepy Switzerland. bar, big on sport, is Paddy Reilly’s on League Final, has the country’s fieriest FC Basel. Five years later, business Bed Steinentorstraße near the SBB station. atmosphere. took Kamper to Barcelona. There he Bearings The Basel Tourist Office (www.basel. became Joan Gamper and founded FC Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg Airport com/en) has a hotel-booking service. Nearer Basel Bad station, The Pub on The ‘Joggeli’ was rebuilt for Euro 2008, Barcelona.Back home, Basel didn’t is actually in France, 6km (4 miles) Clarastraße screens games while the staging the opening match and dramatic become a regular on the European north-west of Basel. Bus No.50 (every There are no hotels near the stadium. cultish Didi Offensiv on Erasmusplatz semi-final, Germany’s 3-2 win over circuit until the 1970s. 8-10min, 17min journey time, SF4.70) Close to Aeschenplatz on the No.14 embodies retro football cool.

liberoguide.com 4 SWITZERLAND 2019-20 FC Basel www.liberoguide.com/fc-basel

Tickets BASELFC There’s a ticket office (Mon-Fri 9.30am-6.30pm, Sat 9am-6pm) at the back of the club shop behind Stand A. Online sales are German-language only.

The best seats in Stand A are SF65- SF75, while a decent spot in Stand C opposite is SF48-SF59. Tickets behind the goals, and in the away sector are SF25.

wisdom of holding the 2016 Europa Shop & Museum League Final at such a relatively small Behind Stand A, the FC Basel Shop arena was questioned. (Mon-Fri 9.30am-6.30pm, Sat 9am- 6pm, match days) stocks souvenirs Today’s Joggeli comprises four stands, from doormats to FCB-branded lettered A-D, A being the main stand condoms.

St Jakob Park with the best seats, and bars and restaurants behind it. Stands B and At the back, you’ll find a ticket office and home end D are behind the goals. Away a discreet FCB Museum. Among the This is not the elegant St Jakob built for fans are allocated sectors B1 and B2 artefacts is a photo of the teams before FC Basel the 1954 World Cup, but a late 1990s between Stand A and B. Basel took on the great Uruguay side, rebuild, inaugurated in 2001, for Euro Olympic champions in 1924. Formed in 1893 by Hans Kamper, the 2008. Transport later Joan Gamper who also founded The St Jakob has its own train station Bars FC Barcelona, FC Basel (fcb.ch/en-US/ Set beside a railway line and the St behind Stand C, with a regular direct The only venue near the ground is the Home) were, until recently, the top dogs Alban stream, it allowed little room for connection (8min) with Basel SBB Wirtshaus St Jakob (St.Jakobs-Straße of Swiss football. Title winners eight expansion when Basel was awarded station on match days only. 377), a traditional restaurant that has times running, FC Basel dominated hosting rights for Euro 2008. The Basel Fan Shop/Museum been serving guests since 1526. the Swiss game after the turn of the solution was to rebuild. Regular transport is provided by millennium. tram No.14 (direction Pratteln) that At the stadium, behind Stand A, the Carried out by Basel-based architects While capacity for Euro 2008 was runs every 7min from downtown Rotblau Bar-Bistro is decorated with FCB’s 38,500-capacity St Jakob Park, or Herzog & De Meuron, of Tate Modern 42,500, seats were later removed Barfüsserplatz eight stops away. It also old sports cuttings, and tasteful football ‘Joggeli’, is two miles south-east of the and Allianz Arena fame, this cost of to provide more spectator comfort, passes through Aeschenplatz, linked iconography. Menfolk can lay into big city centre, part of a shopping complex reconstruction was SF220 million, reducing the maximum accommodation by tram No.15 to the station. Allow 10- burgers and Schlossgold beers while and opposite a group of sports halls and creating a three-floor retail complex to 38,500. Considering the huge 12min from town. The tram drops you kids get their own menu and a table pitches. of some 30 shops. numbers heading from Liverpool, the right by Main Stand A. football table.

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Berne BERNE

Outside the Stade de Suisse in Berne stands a reconstructed version of the famous Longines clock that timed matches here when this was the Wankdorfstadion.

Leichtsinn The scoreline on it reads ‘Ungarn 2 Deutschland 3’. The World Cup Final of 1954, a shock German win over a Finally, the hostel-like Hotel Glocke at previously unbeatable Hungary one Rathausgasse 75 has a mix of singles, wet July afternoon, changed football doubles and multi-bed rooms with history. shared bathrooms, plus private doubles.

Set in the middle of Switzerland, Beer easily accessible from the main Bars dot the Old Town. Many gather airports of Basel and Zürich, this on the terrace of the Leichtsinn at charming, cobbled capital hosted Kornhausplatz 10 to watch match three matches for Euro 2008, the action – inside is an intimate, two- Wankdorf knocked down to make way floor contemporary space. for the eco-friendly Stade de Suisse. Round the corner, Rathausgasse is A regular venue for the Swiss Cup sixth-tier soccer in a 14,000-capacity Suisse is over the river north-east of friendly Novotel Expo, by the lined with cellar bars, most only open Final, Berne is also home of Young ground, take bus No.11 from Berne town.Buses and trams form Berne’s terminus of the No.9 tram. The more after dark. Boys (www.bscyb.ch). League station to Brückfeld. transport network. A single ticket budget-conscious ibis Budget Bern champions 13 times, Young Boys is SF2.60, SF13 for six journeys or a Expo stands alongside. At the edge of the Old Town, GOAL had been a constant presence in Bearings day pass. Public transport is free for at Junkerngasse 1 is a football bar the top three of the Swiss Super Berne airport, 9km (5.5 miles) match-ticket holders for three hours Also in the vicinity at Militärstraße 38, with a YB bent, where Swiss, Italian, League from 2008 onwards until south-east of town only serves before kick-off and two hours after. the Hotel Jardin is a traditional, mid- German, English and Spanish top- long-awaited titles by huge winning summer charters. The nearest range lodging with its own restaurant. league matches are screened in margins in 2018 and 2019. airports are Basel 117km (73 miles) Bed a cellar that once hosted a Louis and Zürich 140km (87 miles) away. The Berne Tourist Office (bern.com/ In the Old Town, equally old-school Armstrong aftershow in 1955. Lowly FC Bern (fcbern1894.ch), Och en/detail/tourist-information) has a hotels include the historic Bern Other soccer-friendly spots include Cup winners and Swiss Cup finalists A direct train service runs from hotel-booking service. at Zeughausgasse 9, the Goldener Mr Pickwick on Wallgasse near in the 1920s, are based at the Stadion Zürich Airport (1hr 25min) and Basel Schlüssel at Rathausgasse 72 and the station and, on Spitalgasse, the Neufeld, where YB played during the SBB (1hr) to Berne station, a shortish The nearest hotel to the Stade de the more affordable Metropole at Nelson, both Berne branches of Stade de Suisse construction. To see stroll to the city centre. The Stade de Suisse is the four-, business- Zeughausgasse 26. nationwide chains.

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Eleven Fri noon-6.30pm, Sat 9am-5pm) in the BOYSYOUNG Wankdorf Center, Papiermühlestraße 85, also distributes.

Online sales are dealt with by Eventim and TicketCorner.

On match days, kiosks on three corners of the stadium open 90min before kick- off. Kassenhaus 1 on Papiermühlestraße and Kassenhaus 3 on Sempachstraße by Europa League wins over Rangers then close 15min before the match and Feyenoord in 2019-20. starts, Kassenhaus 2 stays open.

Home fans gather behind the goal in the Prices start at SF25 to stand in the Ostkurve, even-numbered sectors D2- home end, Tribüne D sectors, and SF35 D14 standing. Away fans are allocated to sit – places limited. In Tribüne B B12-B15 in a corner of the opposite behind the opposite goal, it’s SF35, and end. The best seats and boxes are SF25 for away fans in the Gästesektor, accessed through Quartierplatz, the B13 and B15. pedestrianised square containing the Restaurant Eleven. Along the sidelines in Tribüne A or C, Wankdorfstadion/ Stade de Suisse prices run from SF45 to SF70 for prime Transport seats. Wankdorf, named after this area of the new Stade de Suisse, a high-tech Bern Wankdorf S-Bahn stop is by the Young Boys north-east Berne, was remodelled and rebuild. Built for Euro 2008, the Stade stadium, 5min from Bern main station Shop expanded to a 64,000-capacity stadium opened in 2005, solar panels covering an on lines S1, S2, S3, S31 and S44. At the YB-Fanshop (Mon-Fri noon- The flagship club of the Swiss capital, worthy of staging a World Cup final. On artificial pitch and 32,000 seats. 6.30pm, Sat 9am-noon, 1pm-5pm, Young Boys (www.bscyb.ch) were July 4 1954, all-conquering Hungary Alternatively, tram No.9 leaves every match days) in the Wankdorf Center, crowned champions in 2018 and 2019, fell to West Germany, a turning point in Attracting Switzerland’s second biggest 5-10min from outside the station (eight Gäub-Schwarz paraphernalia includes after three consecutive finishes as football history. crowds after Basel, YB put in credible stops, 10min), via the main square of T-shirts bearing the foundation date of runners-up. title challenges, gained a draw with Zytglogge (6 stops, 7min). 1898, plus replica shirts. Three years later, YB won their first Liverpool and wins over Napoli and The Gäub-Schwarz were founded in of four consecutive championships. Udinese in the Europa League. Tickets Bars 1898 by students from Berne University, This side also made the semi-final of Ticketing (Mon-Fri 8am-noon, 1pm- By the stadium on Quartierplatz, Eleven inspired by Basel’s Old Boys in yellow the European Cup in 1959. When the A first-ever campaign in the group 5pm) at Papiermühlestraße 71 (third (Mon-Fri 8.30am-11pm, Sat 5pm-11pm, and black. Early success led to the Wankdorf was closed in 2001, Swiss stage of the Champions League in 2018 floor) sells advance tickets, including Sun match days only) offers quality construction of the Wankdorfstadion. watchmakers Longines renovated the offered glamour ties with Manchester by email ([email protected]) from 14 days Italian food, live match screenings and Built in 1925, the then 22,000-capacity famous clock from 1954 to stand outside United, Juventus and Valencia – followed before the game. The YB-Fanshop (Mon- YB souvenirs.

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Geneva GENEVA

The global city of Geneva, de facto capital of French-speaking Switzerland, is once more among the Swiss football elite thanks to Servette FC regaining entry to the Super League in 2019. The Crowned Eagle A crowd of 20,000-plus gathered at the Stade de Genève for the Beer decisive game with local rivals Geneva’s pubs and bars appeal to an in May 2019 and similar international crowd, many showing gates are expected when les live sport. An ideal place to start is Grenats host the big boys from Pâquis, between the train station Basel, Berne and Zürich. and the lake. On rue Phillippe- Plantamour, The Clubhouse puts Bearings focus on TV sport, as does the Geneva Airport is 4km (2.5 miles) long-established Grand Duke Pub north-west of the city. In luggage on nearby rue du Monthoux. reclaim, an automatic distributor provides free bus tickets into Further up towards the station on town, valid for 80 minutes. The rue du Fribourg, The Crowned Eagle Nos.5 , 5+ and 10 run to Cornavin was opened in 2018 and was quickly train station, journey time ticket in zone 10 is SF3, or SF2 Serving the Stade de Genève Nearby on rue des Corps-Saints, established as a friendly, football- around 20min. Going from town, for three stops, a day pass (carte alongside, the Ramada Encore the Hôtel St-Gervais is another watching local. Pool and live music your boarding pass is valid. journalière) SF10 (SF8 after 9am). by Wyndham Geneva is a old-school option, with smallish also feature. On place du Cornavin, three-star business hotel with rooms and shared bathrooms. the Britannia Pub has been pulling Note that certain city-centre hotels A taxi from the airport to town various offers on room rates. pints in the Hotel Astoria since 1972. offer day passes on local transport should cost around SF40. Taxis 202 For luxury and lakeside views, for the duration of your stay. (+41 22 3 202 202) charges about Convenient for the train station, The Ritz-Carlton Hôtel de la On the other side of main rue de SF70 but that includes a name-sign three hotels line place de Cornavin: Paix on quai du Mont-Blanc is all Chantepoulet, Irish-owned Mulligans Regular trains run from the rail pick-up and waiting at the airport. three-star Hôtel Astoria Genève, contemporary design and fine dining. on rue de Grenus is another expat platform below the passenger which houses the Britannia Pub; stalwart for Guinness and TV sport. terminal to Cornavin (journey Bed economy chain ibis Styles Geneva Further round the lake by the park time 10min, SF3, valid for 1hr). Geneva Tourism (geneve. Station Hotel and the Hôtel of the same name, the Hôtel Mon You’ll find the Geneva branch of For the tpg network of buses, com) has a hotel database and Suisse, whose 62 modern rooms Repos dates back to 1928, with Swiss faux-pub chain Mr Pickwick on trams and trolleybuses, any click-through booking. sit behind an old-school façade. its own bar and restaurant. rue de Lausanne, north of Pâquis.

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Servette SERVETTE

The third most successful club in Swiss football history has been out of the limelight for most of the 21st century. In fact, until promotion from the second- tier Challenge League in May 2019, all Servette FC had to show for the last two decades was two cases of bankcruptcy and the solitary Swiss Cup win of 2001.

Servette won all of their 17 Swiss titles when based in the district they were named after, on the unfashionable right bank of the Rhône.

Home is now the 30,000-capacity Stade de Genève. Since opening in 2003, it has hosted the national sides of Brazil, Argentina, Italy and Spain in showcase friendlies. Now back in the Super League, Servette are expected to attract five-figure crowds once more. Rouge – they usually leave every The pitch is the same top-quality Mixto 15min from main Cornavin station, Stade de Genève Hybrid Grass as used at Real Madrid, platform 2. Journey time is 5min, Ajax and Atlético Bilbao. Around it, single ticket SF3. Trains back run Tickets League games, the cheapest admission Bars up close, are four stands: the Tribune past 10.30pm, even on a Sunday. Availability shouldn’t be a problem at is in the home end, Tribune Nord, SF23 Many gather at Molino, a standard Nord for home fans and Sud for visiting From the station, you’re 5min from Servette. Advance tickets are distributed in advance, SF28 on the day – these Italian restaurant with a terrace, supporters behind each goal, the main the nearest transport stop of P&R through ticketcorner outlets such as tickets do not specify a certain seat. For alongside the Ramada Encore hotel Tribune Principale and Tribune Est Étoile. From there, it’s a 7-8min walk the one at La Praille by the stadium, at numbered seating over the halfway line and part of La Praille retail centre. opposite, which isn’t open every game. along the main road of route des Swiss post offices, large department in the Tribune Principale, it’s SF55/SF60. On match days, supporters are happy Around the ground is La Praille, a hotel Jeunes to the stadium or jump on store Manor on rue de Cornavin in town. If the Tribune Est is open, it’s SF35/SF40. ordering a small Moretti (SF6.50) and retail complex with chain cafés and bus D, 21 or 43 one stop to Stade de The club shop, the Boutique des Grenats or half-litre of Erdinger Weissbier eateries. Genève. The stadium is on your right. at the stadium, also sells tickets. Shop (SF8.50). Alternatively, bus D runs directly La Boutique des Grenats at the stadium Transport from central hubs Stand, Palladium Online sales are French-only. sells maroon or white away tops at There are few alternatives nearby – a The easiest way to reach the stadium and Jonction, overall journey time On match days, the ticket windows SF100 (!), scarves and flags, as well as couple of bland eateries around P&R is to take the train to Lancy-Pont- 10-15min. open 1hr before kick-off. For Super match tickets. Étoile are barely worth the bother.

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In town, the Luzernerhof on Alpenstraße LUCERNE is a reliable mid-range choice close to the lake. Nearby Rebstock on St Leodegarstraße has a sister operation, the Hotel Hofgarten on Stadthofstraße.

Overlooking the lake and the Chapel Bridge, the Hôtel des Alpes is classier (and pricier) than its three-star status might indicate. Alongside, the Pickwick is attached to the chain pub of the same name, with simpler, cheaper rooms, all with waterfront views and most with balconies.

Beer Perhaps because of its location in the middle of Switzerland, this city with

Chapel Bridge one Swiss title to its name has plenty of football bars. Eichhof is the local beer. Boat restaurants offer it with a view – A valid match ticket allows free use though at a price. of the bus or S-Bahn to and from the

Lake Lucerne stadium for up to three hours before and Pick of the pubs is Legends Luzern. Run after the game. by the indefatigable Billy, it is a tucked away near the lake on Löwenstraße. minutes, to the site of the old Stadion Bearings Ernst Hess taxis (+41 41 310 10 10) are Nearby, the Anfield Pub (Seehofstraße Lucerne Allmend that served the club from 1934. The nearest airport is Zürich 67km (41.5 based near the swissporeana. 7) is a somewhat predictably themed miles) away. One train an hour runs sports bar, busy for big matches. The lakeside resort of Lucerne is as Overlooked for the 1954 World Cup and directly from Zürich Airport to Lucerne Bed pretty a setting as you’ll find for a Euro 2008, railway hub Lucerne is set 1hr away, tickets SF28. The Lucerne Tourist Office (www.luzern. The Lucerne branch of Swiss chain Mr football match – even in Switzerland. in the heart of Switzerland, convenient com/en/index.cfm) has a hotel-booking Pickwick sticks to the standard formula Home of flagship club FC Luzern, the from Zurich, Berne and Basel. Buses comprise the public transport. A service. of its counterparts but also offers an is not lakeside but close single ticket is SF3.20, a day pass SF6.40. unsurpassable view of the lake from its to snow-capped mountains, and by a A top-flight proposition since 2006, The swissporarena is in the same zone The only hotel near the stadium is the terrace. It has rooms upstairs. classic Swiss chalet restaurant. FC Luzern have lost three cup finals 101 as Lucerne station. There’s an Spatz, with its own restaurant. Prices in recent years but, in Swiss terms, S-Bahn regional train network that also are about 20% higher in high season, On the other bank on Wagenbachgasse, A city bus takes you there from manage to attract healthy crowds, quite serves the stadium. A single ticket is which runs between April and October the Irish-run Shamrock Irish Pub has a Lucerne’s busy station in less than ten used to European football. SF3, day pass SF6. inclusive. raised terrace in the Old Town.

liberoguide.com 10 SWITZERLAND 2019-20 FC Luzern www.liberoguide.com/fc-luzern

Online sales operate through the LUZERN FC Eventim (eventimsports.de/ols/ fcluzern) via the club website.

For domestic fixtures, standing tickets (B Tribüne) are SF28. Seats alongside are SF33, SF41 behind the opposite goal (D Tribüne), and SF58 in the sideline C Tribüne. Seats in the A Tribüne are SF62-100.

Visiting fans are charged a flat SF28 for a seat in sector C6.

For all-seated European games, the stop is clearly marked near the admission is cheaper at SF43-70 in A, archway. SF23 in B, SF29 in D, and SF41-48 in C. Away fans are charged SF20. Alternatively, towards town by the roundabout, Allmend/Messe S-Bahn Shop is one stop south on the S4 (direction You’ll find toy FCL lions amid the blue Stans or Wolfenschlessen) and S5 T-shirts and kits at the FCL-Fanshop

swissporarena (direction Giswil) lines from Lucerne (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, match days) behind station. Trains leave every 15min, D Tribüne. usually from platform 14. FCL had the courage to invest in the Switzerland, complete the picture. Bars FC Luzern future, the €65 million swissporarena, For domestic fixtures, 3,000 standing A match ticket allows use of the bus or By the stadium, the Wirtschaft replacing the venerable Allmend places fill sectors B2-3 in the home S-Bahn to and from the stadium for up zum Schützenhaus is a traditional Europa League competitors in 2019- on the club’s 110th anniversary. end, B Tribune (blue). to three hours either side of the game. restaurant in Swiss chalet style. 20, FC Luzern (www.fcl.ch) have Architects Daniel Marques and Iwan rarely set the Swiss League alight Bühler created a contemporary, Away fans are allocated C6, at the other Tickets Allmend (Moosmattstraße 51) is but can count on a loyal and lively fan 17,000-capacity venue also suitable for end of Tribüne C (red), facing the main Advance tickets are sold at the FCL- attached to the bowling alley where FCL base. Switzerland internationals. stand, Tribüne A (yellow). Tribüne D Fanshop (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm) behind players changed in the park-pitch days. (green) is behind the other goal. D Tribüne and at the LZ-Corner of the FCL have only three major trophies Completed in 2011, it comprises a Neue Luzerner Zeitung (Pilatusstraße On Horwerstraße, the Militärgarten to their name, one title and two cups, distinctive gold-tinted exterior, with Transport 12) in town. On match days, kiosks 1 was opened before FCL were founded. and their fans in blue-and-white have interior seating in blue, FCL lettering The transport stop by the stadium is and 2 operate behind A Tribüne on main Scarves decorate a wooden interior, long envied the success of Basel or clearly outlined. Toothbrush floodlights, for the No.20 bus (every 7min). It takes Horwerstraße. Visiting fans should use where Eichhof and Hubertus dark ale Grasshopper Zürich. somehow strangely popular in 7min from Lucerne train station, where kiosk No.5, cash only. are served. It has a terrace, too.

liberoguide.com 11 SWITZERLAND 2019-20 Lugano www.liberoguide.com/lugano

Trinity LUGANO

Olimpia

need a bus for the stadium. Some Mediterranean restaurant and bar. hotels offer free public transport if you Also in the centre, the Pestalozzi book a room through their website. hides recently renovated rooms behind a historic façade. Nearby, the Taxi Luganese (+41 91 967 24 24) is a family-run Zurigo Garni has been in reliable local firm. operation since 1951. Seven Bed By the station, the Continental enjoyed group-stage campaigns in Milan’s Malpensa and Linate airports Lugano Turismo (luganoturismo.ch) Parkhotel echoes the steam era. Lugano the Europa League in 2017-18 and are 90km (56 miles) and 100km (62 has online booking. 2019-20. miles) from Lugano. Lugano Servizi Beer By the pretty lake of the same name, in and Malpensa Express buses run For age-old hospitality by the On the main square, piazza Riforma, the Italian-speaking region of Ticino by The Cornaredo is also home to 10-12 times a day between Malpensa waterfront, the classic Hotel the classic Olimpia dates back to 1845, Switzerland’s twisting border with its Rapid Lugano (fcrapidlugano.ch), terminals 1-2 and piazzale Besso International has an outdoor pool its lived-in bar where older Lugano southern neighbour, Lugano is more in the regional Ticino divisions. in Lugano (1hr 20min journey time, in summer while the Walter Au Lac supporters meet. On the waterfront, suited to pleasure boats, Eurovision The club’s most recent claim to €25/€40 return). There is no direct Lugano features a roof terrace. the Bar Vela has sport on TV and Song Contests and financial services fame is in nurturing the Swiss public transport from Linate to tables outside overlooking the lake. than football. international, Marco Padalino. The Lugano. Set back from the waterfront, the San stadium is almost as close to the Carlo is a more affordable two-star Further round the lake, chic Seven FC Lugano found success in the 1940s. Italian border as it is to Lugano’s From Milano Centrale, a EuroCity and, by the foot of the funicular, the is a sport-forward lounge bar, with The Stadio Cornaredo was built for landmark casino. train takes 1hr 10min, internet price Acquarello Swiss Quality Hotel is a waterfront terrace. Upscale chatty the 1954 World Cup, 24,000 Italians €23. Lugano station stands high over another handy and affordable find. Bistro Lugano near the Hotel Zurigo cheered a 4-1 win over Belgium. Bearings the city, connected by funicular. City Nearby, the Hotel Lugano Dante is Garni buzzes during aperitivi hour. Lugano Airport 4km (2.5 miles) buses serve town and station. A single a notch-above four-star. Round the Still based at the same quaint west of town receives regular ticket (valid 30min) is SF1.90, a day corner, Gabbani is an urban lodging Irish pub Trinity is at via Canonica 19, municipal stadium, i Bianco-Neri services from Zürich and Geneva. pass (carta giornaliera) SF7.20. You’ll set around a pre-war delicatessen, by a waterway that leads from the lake.

liberoguide.com 12 SWITZERLAND 2019-20 FC Lugano www.liberoguide.com/fc-lugano

FC Lugano FC LUGANO

The biggest club in Ticino, Ital- ian-speaking Switzerland, FC Lugano (fclugano.com) are enjoying a modest revival. Swiss Cup finalists in 2016, the Bianconeri came within a point of qualification from the group stage of the Europa League in 2017.

In 2003, Lugano had been forcibly relegated, then declared bankrupt. A new outfit, AC Lugano, was created, formed of under-21 players. In 2004, it merged with nearby FC Malcantone Agno, and became FC Lugano, again, in 2008.

The Bianconeri last won the Swiss title in 1949. Lugano then prepared for 1954 Stadio Cornaredo World Cup hosting by building a new ground. As elegant today as when it opened in 1951, the Stadio Cornaredo The Stadio Cornaredo also hosts lower- the stadium or via national agency Shop is a classic Swiss stadium backdropped league Rapid Lugano – supporters have ticketcorner which also distributes The main outlet is the Lugano Store, Behind the Curva Sud, the Buvette by dramatic hillsides and under their own bar behind the Curva Sud. online. On match days, tickets are sold a match-day kiosk behind the Tribuna Rapid is a small, basic bar with a seemingly permanent bright blue skies. at the kiosks behind each goal. Monte Brè. FCL shirts with the cool V terrace overlooking the adjoining Transport across the chest come in black, white training pitch. There’s also a Buvette Crowds have dropped dramatically From Lugano station, lines No.4 and The cheapest seats (SF25) are in the and red versions and there are also the Monte Brè on match days, serving local since the 1950s but the graceful main No.6 take 10min to reach the stadium. Spalti, the areas either side of the standard frilly pennants, scarves and Luganighetta spiral sausages. stand, the Tribuna Centrale, remains, From Lugano Centro, on via Pestalozzi central seats in the main stand, as far keyrings. on via Trevano that runs from town. near the Hotel Zurigo Garni, the No.7 as the home and away sectors behind The stadium’s main sit-down venues also takes 10min. The No.3 from via each goal. Bars are the Osteria Bianconero and Opposite, the Tribuna Monte Brè holds Pestalozzi runs along the waterfront, a Behind the Curva Nord, the Pizzeria adjoining Bar Lugano behind the main almost half the current 6,330 capacity. pretty ride to the ground 15min away. A seat in the Tribuna Monte Brè is SF40, Resega (via Sanvico 1) has been in the stand. The restaurant operates during Each end is open to the elements, home under-14s SF15, under-6s free. The Albieri family for decades. A lovely little the week until early evening. For match ultras gathered in the Curva Nord, up to Tickets main stand is divided into the Tribuna tavern run by an equally affable old days, reserve via ristorazione@fclugano. 800 away supporters accommodated in Tickets are sold from the club office Laterale (settore 1 & 4, SF65) and landlord, it offers wood-fired pizzas and ch. The bar serves Calanda beer from the Curva Sud. (Mon-Fri 9am-noon, 2pm-5pm) at Centrale (settore 2 & 3, SF80). Feldschlösschen beer. Chur.

liberoguide.com 13 SWITZERLAND 2019-20 Neuchâtel www.liberoguide.com/neuchatel

café than hotel, with ten basic rooms NEUCHÂTEL upstairs.

Further up by the castle and funicular station, neat, 22-room Hotel de L’Ecluse suits the modern urban traveller.

Beer Pubs and bars dot the historic centre, many with terraces overlooking the picturesque surroundings. The nearest lodging to the stadium is the contemporary Hôtel des Arts Among them, the main Irish-style one tram stop away at Université. place for live sport and live music is In the same family, the Hôtel Alpes the Café du Cerf on rue Ancien-Hôtel- et Lac serves the train station over de-Ville, showing the road, a modernised railway hotel action. On nearby places des Halles, with lake views from the restaurant popular Le Charlot offers some 30 terrace. beers and a prominent terrace. Across the square, the upscale Prestige Club Overlooking the lake, a short stroll specialises in wine. from the stadium, the pricier Best people, Sepp Blatter, president in the A funicular also connects the Western Premier Hotel Beaulac On rue des Fausses-Brayes, the Neuchâtel early years. station to the university below. makes best use of its waterside Great Glen Scottish Tavern shows Trolleybuses and funiculars are run location. major games and has a plentiful beer A pretty historic town by the lake of Home since 1924 has been Stade de by the regional Transport Publics selection. Nearby Les Brasseurs the same name, Neuchâtel is the la Maladière, overlooking the lake and Neuchâtelois. You can buy regular Further along the waterfront and started out as artisanal brewers home of two-time Swiss champions reasonably close to Neuchâtel station. tickets (SF2.30/30min journey) from close to the town centre, Hotel in Geneva in 1997, and set up in Neuchâtel Xamax. Forced out of machines at stops. Touring au Lac is an old-school Neuchâtel ten years later. Across the existence in 2012, Xamax took six Bearings three-star. In the historic centre road, Le Bistrot du Concert provides years to climb back up the Swiss From Geneva Airport 126km (78 Taxi-Kam (+41 32 725 22 22) has a itself, the Auberg’Inn offers a mix of a classic zinc-bar, terrace-café league pyramid and regain top-tier miles) away, a direct hourly train SF10 minimum fee per ride. rooms in a building dating back 500 experience. status in 2018. takes 1hr 20min to reach Neuchâtel years. Alongside, the Aubier is run by (SF24). Bed the café downstairs – guests should In the shadow of the château, the Café Neuchâtel Xamax are a post-war Neuchâtel Tourisme arrive by 7pm. de la Collegiale on the steep, cobbled construct. Created from a merger of Neuchâtel station is equidistant (neuchateltourisme.ch/en) has an street of the same name offers FC Cantonal and FC Xamax in 1970, from the town centre and the Stade accommodation database that links to In the same vicinity, the Hôtel du all kinds of beers and a stunning the new club was overseen by, of all de la Maladière towards the lake. a booking site. Marché is more restaurant/terrace panoramic view.

liberoguide.com 14 SWITZERLAND 2019-20 Neuchâtel Xamax www.liberoguide.com/neuchatel-xamax

Tickets NEUCHÂTEL XAMAX Tickets are sold online for three or four home games in advance. For information, call +41 32 847 95 98 (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm).

The ticket office opens 1hr before kick- off and sell-outs are rare. the stadium is prettier than its unpromisingly functional exterior The cheapest admission is SF25 in the suggests. Done out in signature red and home end, or anywhere in Tribune D black, the stadium has a low curving and B, away fans able to pay on the day. roof along each sideline, offering views A decent seat along sideline Tribune C of the hillsides. All is offset by the bright Nord, or in the corners, is SF40-SF45. green of the artificial turf. Shop Stands are designed A-D, all numbered The Boutique Xamax is in the apart from section D4 in the home end, Maladière Centre mall surrounding the Tribune Est. Tribune (Ouest) B is mainly stadium. First-team tops of red and for visiting supporters, allocated B1-B3. black melting into each other differs The main stand, Tribune A Sud, is VIP- from the classic stripes of 2017-18. only. Second kit is canary yellow.

Stade de la Maladière Transport Bars Even though public transport for match- Between stadium and waterfront, the And that youngster was Max ‘Xam’ ticket holders is free from 2hrs before Café des Amis is more a restaurant, Neuchâtel Xamax Abegglen, one of three brothers who and after the game, in practice the best but you’re welcome to find a terrace would later earn more than 100 caps way to reach the stadium from the town table, order a Swiss beer and gaze at A familiar if unusual name from for Switzerland between them. centre is to walk. the lake. European competitions in the 1980s and 1990s, Neuchâtel Xamax Formed as Xamax in 1912, the team Bus No.121 serving Maladière runs Right on the water, Vio offers wok- (xamax.ch) must be the only case of a played its first match in 1916, which every 15min Mon-Sat only, up to based and grilled dishes – and that top-tier club being founded by a ten- was when FC Cantonal, won their only 8.20pm, and takes 4min to run the four fabulous view. If you’re not in the mood year-old boy. Swiss title. Cantonal then built the 12,000, just less than half the crowd stops from central place Pury. for Thai soup, you can order a glass of Stade de la Maladière in 1924, rebuilt that crammed into the old ground for draught Heineken at standard Swiss That club, FC Xamax, later fused with and reopened in 2007. the visit of Real Madrid in 1986. From the train station, take the prices. Neuchâtel-Sports, known for six Fun’ambule funicular down to the lower decades as FC Cantonal, to create Part of a sport, leisure and retail Home to 54 shops, including one terminus at Université. The stadium is In the ground, kiosks serve Boxer Neuchâtel Xamax in 1970. complex, the new ground holds stocking Xamax merchandise, a 5-7min walk or one bus stop away. beer from Yverdon.

liberoguide.com 15 SWITZERLAND 2019-20 St Gallen www.liberoguide.com/st-gallen

Café Hörnli the stadium means that you’ll be far GALLENST from town.

Near St Gallen station, the Metropol has been serving rail travellers for over a century while the four-star Walhalla St Gallen features a popular brasserie.

By Marktplatz, traditional Hotel Am Ring gleams with historic chintz. Across the street, the Weisses Kreuz offers mid-range rooms and a modern bar.

Am Spisertor by the station of the same name comprises 12 basic rooms with limited reception hours at weekends.

Beer A bar hub clusters around Augustinergasse, Engelgasse and Metzgergasse near Marktplatz. On

O-Five Pub Metzgergasse, Gallus offers those watching a whole St Gallen game a free drink should the Green-and- Grün-Weißen then went almost an western outskirts of town, was renamed Match-ticket holders and many local Whites win. The traditional Hörnli on St Gallen entire century trophy-less. . hotel guests travel for free. A single Marktplatz is where the meeting took ticket is otherwise SF2.40, a day pass place to form FC St Gallen. Nearby, The tranquil shores of Lake Constance The club’s long-term home was Bearings Tageskarte SF6.40. Based near St the Süd Bar attracts young hipsters that divide Switzerland from Germany Espenmoos, its record attendance The nearest international airport to St Gallen station, Herold Taxi (+41 71 2222 with varied beers and cocktails until and Austria are where football took root of 16,200 set in 1985 with the visit of Gallen is Zürich 87km (54 miles) away. 777) accepts credit cards. the early hours. Behind it, Seeger is in Europe. On the Swiss side, St Gallen Internazionale in the UEFA Cup. Fifteen A half-hourly train runs direct from the another St Gallen landmark, a bar/ is home to the oldest club side still in years later, it witnessed St Gallen lift airport to St Gallen, journey time 50min- Bed restaurant with a popular terrace. existence on the Continent. their first league title in 96 years. 1hr, single SF14.50. If you’re going St Gallen Bodensee Tourist straight to kybunpark, the hourly ICN Information (www.st.gallen-bodensee. Towards the station, the O-Five On 19 April 1879, an advert in the St St Gallen’s senior side moved out to train allows you to change at Gossau for ch/en) has a hotel database and Pub on Poststraße provides jugs of Galler Tagblatt announced a meeting a new-build on the eve of Euro 2008, Winkeln, and reach the stadium in 1hr booking function. Near kybunpark, the Guinness to go with the European at the Hörnli restaurant, with a view to Switzerland christening the AFG Arena from the airport. Otherwise, change at hotel one66 is a handy three-star with match action. Behind Spisertor, Da starting a football club. FC St Gallen with a 3-0 win over Liechtenstein. St Gallen main station. All local buses weekend deals. Also close, New Star Sláinte Inn goes more for live music duly won the Swiss title in 1904. The Before 2016-17, the stadium, at the pass via the station near the city centre. also has its own car park. Staying near than sport.

liberoguide.com 16 SWITZERLAND 2019-20 FC St Gallen www.liberoguide.com/fc-st-gallen

Shop GALLEN ST FC The main FC St Gallen store (Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, match days 2hrs before kick- off 30min after final whistle) is in the Shopping Arena by the Eingang West.

Merchandise includes woolly Alpine hats with earflaps, baseball caps bearing the foundation date of 1879, Swiss watches, FCSG monopoly games, branded cigars, shot glasses, beer glasses and spirit flasks.

Kiosks dot the stadium on match days.

Bars Near Winkeln station on Herisauer Straße, typical Swiss bar/restaurant Landhaus Winkeln opens on match days, serving Bratwurst and chips, and FC St Gallen local St Galler Schützengarten beer. kybunpark The oldest football club still operating Further along on the other side, the on mainland Europe, St Gallen (fcsg.ch) standard bar/restaurant Brücken have had meagre reward for some 120 ones behind the west goal. Visiting minutes away. Winkeln is also served outlets such as the Post Office outside Waage at No.54 has tables outside in years of competitive play. Rarely out of supporters are allocated Gästesektor by the No.1 bus every 20min from the the train station and the Tourist Office warmer weather. the top flight since the early 1970s, St 4 of the arbonia-Tribüne opposite. The main station, journey time 20min. on Bankgasse. Gallen won a rare Swiss title in 2000, main stand, the former Piatti-Tribüne Of the outlets at the Shopping Arena moved into a new stadium in 2008 then now the RWD Schlatter, houses the VIP After arriving at Winkeln station, take Match-day Tageskassen windows also by the stadium, chain bar/restaurant made the group stage of the Europa and business seats. the underpass then the street ahead of operate but expect to pay SF5 extra. Marktplatz offers several types of St League in 2013. you, Herisauer Straße. The stadium is Prices start at SF20 to stand with Galler Schützengarten beer on draught, Transport about 7-8min ahead. the home fans, and for a seat in the schnitzels, spare ribs and burgers. Opened as the AFG Arena, the Public transport is free for match- corner of the opposite end. You’ll pay currently named kybunpark holds ticket holders. Tickets SF35 to sit either side of the standing All payments at the stadium are with nearly 20,000, average gates usually Unless Grasshoppers are in town, fans in the forster-Tribüne. Seats in a Stadionkarte from orange-dressed around 12,000. The quickest way to the stadium is to availability is rarely a problem. the sideline EgoKiefer Stand run from vendors. Match-Die Stadion Bar is the take the S1 (direction Wil) or S5 train SF30-SF50, from corner to halfway main place for home fans, behind the St Gallen fans fill the home forster- (direction Weinfelden) from St Gallen The main distribution agents are line, and in the main stand it’s SF55- forster-Tribüne, decorated with framed Tribüne, sectors D2 and D3 standing main station to Winkeln, two stops/five Starticket, both online and at local SF80, apart from the family area (A6). black-and-white shots of FCSG action.

liberoguide.com 17 SWITZERLAND 2019-20 Sion www.liberoguide.com/sion SION SION

as local patriotism. The population of Sion Sion is only just twice that of the Stade de Tourbillon, just over a narrow stretch Capital of the canton of Valais, just down of the Rhône, so many head in from the A9 motorway from Sepp Blatter’s around the canton, taking advantage of home village of Visp, French-speaking the A9 motorway alongside. Sion is nestled halfway between the Matterhorn and Lake Geneva. Bearings The nearest airport to Sion is Geneva Here FC Sion (fcsion.ch/fr), in the 13 160km (100 miles) away. A train runs stars and red livery of their canton, from Genève-Aéroport to Sion (every Au Poker have survived thanks to controversial 30min, 2hr journey time, SF26 single). president Christian Constantin and a Trains from Bern, Basel and Zürich, knack for winning the Swiss Cup – even including Zürich airport, require a standard doubles from SF160. Also on Beer over the bar counter and tables outside when in the second division. change in Visp. rue du Scex, the Hôtel du Rhône Sion Surrounded by vineyards, Sion also in nice weather. is quiet. The Hôtel-Restaurant Elite at drinks local Walliser/Valaisanne Sacking coaches every other week, Sion’s adjacent bus and train stations avenue du Midi 6 has offers in the run- beer. The main football spot in town, though, stepping in to do the job himself, signing are a stroll from the town centre. up to Christmas. is Au Poker at avenue de la Gare 25. unsignable players and fielding the Bars surround place du Midi, including With a bar interior decked out in Sion ineligible, Constantin has made many Public transport consists of buses, Also near the stadium but on the other Café de la Place, Le Brésilien, and, line-ups over the seasons, some enemies but Sion have been top flight singles SF2.70 from the driver. side of the A9 motorway, the ibis Sion also with football action, old-school Au autographed, Au Poker also provides since 2006 and regular competitors in Est has 71 two-star rooms. Boulevard. In summer, their terraces a large screen for match coverage. Europe. Bed merge in the Valais sunshine. Sion Tourisme (siontourisme.ch) has An alternative, also close to the station, Party-minded Saint James at rue de With no immediate rivals – although an online booking system. The centre is La Pension du Vieux-Canal (chemin Close by on rue de Scex, opened by la Dents-Blanche 9 is more club than it’s always good to beat Servette – cup has three three-star hotels. Old-school du Vieux-Canal, +41 27 322 7200, +41 79 sponsors of FC Sion, the Dugout is a bar, with DJ nights and late-opening specialists Sion attract regional as much Castel, closest to the stadium, has 947 0398), with a dozen simple rooms. standard sports bar with TVs ranged hours.

liberoguide.com 18 SWITZERLAND 2019-20 FC Sion www.liberoguide.com/fc-sion FC SION

Transport For domestic fixtures, prices start at The stadium is a 20min walk from Sion’s SF25 in the standing home end, secteur main train station – head straight out B (Tribune Nord), rising to SF35 in to avenue de Tourbillon opposite, bear secteurs D1-D3 for home seats behind right and keep following it until the river. the opposite goal, Sud. It’s SF55 for Cross it at the junction with rue du Scex excellent seats in secteurs C3-C5 in and the stadium is ahead of you down Tribune Est. rue du Stade.

Stade de Tourbillon Bars By bus, take No.BS2 (every 20min) from The nearest venue is the Café Le Parc the station stop by the Orient Express (route de Vissigen 72), a simple wooden Another feature of Constantin’s is barely noticeable as you approach bar. Alight at either Promenade Rhône bar with Feldschlössen beer, local Valais FC Sion ownership, along with attacking a from town. However, the 14,000-capacity nearest the Café Le Parc or the next wine and a small front terrace. TV reporter in 2017-18, has been the stadium is gradually losing its quaint one, Manège 1, near the equestrian Run by controversial Christian frequent sacking of managers. feel: the wooden benches that used to centre slightly closer to the stadium. It’s At the equestrian centre next to the Constantin, FC Sion (fc-sion-live.ch) line the East Stand were replaced by 10min by bus from the station, passing stadium, Le Paladin serves grilled had the envious record of winning all 13 Sion moved to the Stade de Tourbillon plastic seats in 2011. central place du Midi on the way. meats, pancakes and cheese fondue, as Swiss Cup finals they appeared in – until in 1968. Nestled between a winding well as beers – there’s a TV for football defeat to FC Basel in 2017. stretch of the Rhône and the Alps, the With home fans in the standing Tribune Tickets action too. Tourbillon was named after a medieval Nord, away ones occupy blocks D5 and Tickets are sold at branches of the Post For all the criticism, this architect from castle on the surrounding hilltops. D6 in the standing Tribune Sud. VIPs are Office, Manor stores and at train station Buvettes ranged around the ground nearby Martigny saved the club in 2003. housed in the Tribune Ouest, the best offices, as well as at the stadium from offer local Fendant white wine and Sion rebounded, and have been regulars Its chalet-like home North Stand adds seats in A2 and A8 facing the ones over 90min before kick-off by the Tribune Est. red Gamay, as well as beers in 25cl in the top flight since. to the charm – behind, the A9 motorway the halfway line in Tribune Est, C3-C5. Online sales are via ticketcorner.ch. measures.

liberoguide.com 19 SWITZERLAND 2019-20 Thun www.liberoguide.com/thun

Thun THUN

South of Berne, beneath the Bernese Alps, Thun has made its footballing presence felt over the last decade or so.

Flagship club FC Thun have embarked upon five European campaigns since their surprise debut in the Champions League in 2005.

Back then, Arsenal, Ajax and Sparta Prague were hosted in Berne, Thun’s with Swiss Rail, a ticket all the way to venerable but modest Stadion Lachen Thun, including the airport bus to Basel deemed unsuitable. The last major SBB train station, costs SF27.70. The international team to play there was half-hourly rail service to Thun takes West Germany, for training before 1hr 20min. Thun station and main bus winning the World Cup of 1954. concourse are alongside each other on the west bank of the Aare river. The In 2011, the club opened the Arena stadium on the outskirts of town is too Thun, on the edge of town. It was later far to walk but the city centre is close. named after cable-car firm Stockhorn. All local STI bus lines call at the station. A single ticket, from machines or the

With average gates for domestic fixtures driver, is SF3. McArthurs above 5,000, FC Thun are ticking over without making any credible challenge Oesch Tagsi (+41 33 222 2222) is located for major silverware. The Alps and more halfway between the stadium and the nearby is the modern Holiday Thun. The Krone on focal Rathausplatz was table football. Bright El Camino offers a prestigious Berne still provide ample station. Behind it on the main road, the Gasthof a guildhouse, now a 29-room hotel fair range of beers on tap. reason for the floating fan to spend his Rössli Dürrenast is basically an old- renovated in 2014. Across the square, Saturday afternoon elsewhere. Bed school restaurant with six guest rooms the Hotel-Restaurant Rathaus dates For TV football, head to McArthurs, with The Thun Tourist Office (thunersee.ch) with or without private facilities. These back even earlier, its comfortable rooms matches on a 55-inch HD screen, live The Stadion Lachen still stands, its bar has a hotel database and booking three hotels are a 15-20min walk to the also the result of stylish renovation. bands and good grub. On Rathausplatz, displaying posters from that Champions function. stadium. prominent Ratsstübli also shows sport League campaign of 2005-06. Beer and hosts live music. Across from the club’s old ground, Of the options in the city centre, the You’ll find bars and restaurants on Bearings Stadion Lachen, the Alpha Thun Freienhof on Freienhofgasse enjoys either side of Obere Hauptgasse, Former football bar Schleusenbar at The nearest main airport to Thun is Hotel provides pleasant, mid-range waterside views but charges four-star around Mühleplatz near the river. These Bälliz 67 has changed its focus to food Basel 130km (81 miles) away. Online accommodation, close to the lake. Also Swiss prices. include the Cadillac Café with pool and but cherishes its heritage as Tifo.

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FC Thun THUN FC

Since promotion to the top flight in 2002, FC Thun (fcthun.ch) have qualified for Europe five times, played Arsenal and Ajax in the Champions League and gained a new stadium.

Currently, though, this little club Stadion Lachen overshadowed by nearby Berne is treading water, surviving in the Swiss Super League but without the clout to challenge the big boys.

Home is the Arena Thun, aka . It bears all the hallmarks of a new-build: artificial turf, out-of-town location, retail park alongside, motorway nearby, little else in the vicinity. Opened in 2011, renamed in 2014, the stadium holds 10,000, of which 2,000 are standing places in the Heimsektor, the home Stockhorn Arena Under the main stand on match days, end of the Südtribüne. Away fans are the FanZelt is a beer-dispensing allocated sectors D9 and D10 in the marquee, with sausages at SF6.50. Nordtribüne. Talackerstraße 62, by the junction with For the visits of YB Berne and Basel, it’s bright yellow starburst badge. Depending on the opposition, the beer Weststraße. Branches of TicketCorner SF40/SF20. Kategorie 2, better seats The beautifully knitted winter scarves might be alcohol-free Carlsberg. Transport also distribute. around the corners, are SF44/SF22, also feature the yellow sunburst logo on Arena Thun has its own bus stop on the SF52/SF26 for YB Berne and Basel. The red-and-white bars. The best FC Thun drinking spots are at No.3 line. Buses leave every 10-15min The club offers online booking through priciest seats are SF64/SF32, SF72/ the old Stadion Lachen on Gwattstraße. from Kante 2 outside Thun station, taking Eventim (eventimsports.de/ols/fct). SF36 for YB Berne and Basel. Visiting Bars The supporters’ bar is decorated with 7min to cover the six stops there. supporters pay SF25, SF20 reduced. The only bars near the stadium are the vintage pennants and autographed The Tageskassen kiosks outside the two cafés at street level at the Panorama posters from the 2005 Champions Tickets ground open on match days only. Shop Centre opposite: the Cappuccino Club, League campaign. It should be open Availability is rarely a problem. Advance To stand with the home fans costs The FC Thun shop (Mon-Fri 8am-noon, with its table football table outside, and and serving beer most evenings. Across sales in person are through Ochsner SF26, SF13 for 6-15s. The cheapest 1.30pm-5pm, match days) is by Eingang Migros, attached to the supermarket the street, the Restaurant Lachen Sport in the Panorama Center next seats are Kategorie 3, in three corners A. Replica tops are either first-choice of the same name. Both have terraces, is another age-old Thun haunt with to the stadium and Sport XX in the of the stadium and behind the goal in red-and-white or away lime green. A the Cappuccino Club sells beer, Migros pennants to prove it. Beer and main Zentrum Oberland retail centre at the Nordtribüne, SF32/SF16 reduced. retro version has a string collar and a coffee, soft drinks and snacks. dishes, are served on the terrace.

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Bed ZÜRICH Zürich The Zürich Tourist Office (zuerich.com) has a free hotel-booking service online. Basel might be the hotbed of Swiss football culture but the league title Right by the Letzigrund, the H+ Hotel has gone to the financial capital of Zürich is the former Ramada, still Zürich more than twice as many business-friendly with a gym and sauna. times. Also on main Badenerstraße, one tram Switzerland’s largest city is the only stop nearer to town, three more hotels one to host a long-running cross-town are within easy reach. First, the four- rivalry – between record champions star Crowne Plaza Zurich offers a Grasshoppers and the more recent heated indoor pool, high-spec fitness winners, working-class FC Zürich, facilities and the LetziLou restaurant. aka ‘FCZ’ or ‘Eff-Tsay-Tszett’. Towards town are standard four-star Both currently share the Letzigrund, Mercure Stoller Zurich and old-school built by FCZ members in 1925. but comfortable Hotel Olympia. Shortly afterwards, Grasshoppers, GCZ, moved into the nearby By the station, the St Gotthard is Hardturm – and FIFA moved to a renovated four-star while the Zürich. Grasshoppers still play at the Schweizerhof combines the tradition of Letzigrund despite relegation in 2019. a railway hotel with modern features.

Bearings One hotel where you won’t see FIFA Zürich Airport is 13km (eight miles) mandarins is the luxurious Baur north of town, linked by Swiss Rail au Lac on Talstraße, where officials and S-Bahn trains (SF6.60 one way were dragged from their beds to face convene at the upscale Heugümper restaurant-like – but still has TV sports. with 1hr onward transport, SF13.20 corruption charges in 2015. restaurant run by the club. Kaiser Franz on Rolandstraße is an arty 24hr pass/return, 12min journey corner spot, themed after Beckenbauer, time) to Zürich station. A taxi should Beer On the same street towards where staff of cool Swiss football mag cost about SF70. Zürich is where Hürlimann beer comes Bahnhofbrücke, Big Ben is more bar Zwölf meet. Nearby on Schöneggstraße, from. You’ll still see plenty of it around than pub and goes big on rarer ales. the Old Gregory Pub shows live games. City transport consists of trams, the bar hub of Niederdorfgasse, Kennedy’s on Freischützgasse is the buses and S-Bahn lines, tickets behind the Limmat embankment. busiest pub, with a huge terrace and The excellent Le Calvados on Idaplatz, a available at machines by most stops. There, the Züri Bar (No.24) is a plenty of TVs. Irish-owned Paddy self-styled bar sportif, is tastefully done A single is SF2.60, a day pass SF5.20/ cult spot, though it’s lost its FCZ Reilly’s on Talstraße has a large screen out with pictures of major Swiss players

SF8.60. For a city taxi 444, call +41 iconography. It leads to a late-night and ten plasma ones. The Lion at when they were teenagers. Its terrace Hotel Baur au Lac 44 444 44 44. bar, the Kontiki. Grasshopper fans Oetenbachgasse 6 is more refined and fills on summer evenings.

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Transport LETZIGRUND The Letzigrund has its own stop on tramline No.2 eight stops/14min from central Paradeplatz, direction Farbhof. Trams run every 8-10min.

From the Bahnhofplatz/HB stop at the train station, take Nos.3 or 14 to Stauffacher and change onto the No.2.

Tickets Home clubs FC Zürich and Grasshoppers occupy different areas of Letzigrund the stadium and have different ticketing systems. The Letzigrund (stadionletzigrund.ch), created by and for the members of FC For international matches, the Swiss Zürich, is now shared between FCZ and FA use online agency Ticketcorner for Grasshoppers. distribution – a seat in a corner of the main stand is just under SF50. Its long history can be divided between the original stadium opening on Bars November 22, 1925 – and the Euro 2008 Stadion Letzigrund On main Badenerstraße, Libero rebuild on the same site, unveiled on (No.451) is a classic Balkan grill serving August 30, 2007. Yugo meaty favourites such as ćevapčići Both grounds are set in north-west FCZ fans were invited to enter the old main new feature is the roof. Rust- and pljeskavica. At No.526, spacious Top-flight football and world-class Zürich. But when it came down to which Letzigrund and take home pieces of turf coloured and elliptical, it complements Italian Ristorante Da Cono takes its athletics have always featured. The first one to modernise for Euro 2008, on the for souvenirs. 30 toothbrush-shaped floodlights, set bowls seriously. There are big screens ratified ten-second 100-metre dash was table was also a proposal to build a new beside the solar panels that generate for TV sports, and a bocciodromo, Letzi. run here in 1960. arena in Zürich West. Exactly a year and SF125 million later, enough heat to grill 1,800 sausages the new Letzigrund opened its doors. during one match. For beers, the Schlachthof on Although ownership passed from In the end, though the public voted With a capacity of nearly 31,000 for Herdernstraße is a pre-match favourite FCZ to the City of Zürich in 1937, for a reconstruction of the Hardturm, Euro 2008, 26,000 for domestic league Traditionally, FCZ fans occupy the thanks to its draught Dunkle Perle improvements were slow and stopped residents objected and the rebuilding fixtures and 24,000 for internationals, it Südkurve, with standing places in Feldschlößchen. by war. The Letzigrund was overlooked of the Letzigrund was rushed through. is the fourth-largest football stadium in Sektor D on Badenerstraße. Away for Switzerland’s hosting of the 1954 In 2006-07, city’s two clubs shared Switzerland. fans are allocated Sektor B opposite. At the stadium, the Oval restaurant World Cup, five matches (and 28 goals) the Hardturm for one last season. It Grasshoppers supporters have the opens to all on non-match weekday hosted at the Hardturm, Grasshoppers’ was later demolished – and the new Apart from the skyboxes, a media Baslerstraße end, Sektor B, and away lunchtimes – you’ll have to reserve a ground less than 1km away. stadium plans rejected. In August 2006, centre and the Oval restaurant, the fans are allocated in Sektor D. table for the game.

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Fanshop FCZ ZÜRICH FC

tunnel. Order was restored with a swift Sitting there costs SF25, also in the return to the top tier in 2017. away end (Sektor B). It’s SF40 to sit in Sektor C, and SF50 for a prime seat in At the Letzigrund, FCZ fans occupy Sektor A. the Südkurve, with standing places for domestic fixtures in Sektor D. Away Shop & museum fans are allocated Sektor B at the FCZ run their own Fanshop at Having built the multipurpose sparked back to life in 2006. Needing opposite end. Werdstraße 21. FC Zürich Letzigrund, stage for internationals a win in the last game at Basel’s St and cup finals, the club was later Jakob-Park, FCZ went into stoppage For details of transport and Merchandise includes branded Swiss Swiss Cup winners in 2018 after forced to sell it to the City of Zürich. time with the score pegged at 1-1. surrounding bars, see Letzigrund. Army knives, belts and beer glasses. a last-gasp win over local foes Zürich’s struck with the In the same building, the free FCZ- Grasshoppers in the semi-final, FC FCZ only picked up after legendary very last kick of the game, giving the Tickets Museum contains pennants, trophies Zürich (fcz.ch/en) are the populist Edi Nägeli became president in 1957. visitors a shock title win and igniting Advance tickets are sold at the FCZ and historic club shirts. team in town. League champions 12 With his trademark hat and cigar, this the worst riot in Swiss football history. Fanshop at Werdstraße 21, near the times, ‘FCZ’ share the Letzigrund with owner of tobacco kiosks oversaw his Stauffacher tram stop on the same Bars their rivals. beloved Stadtclub during their glory Zürich won the league again in 2009, No.2 line as the Letzigrund, and from For details on bars at the stadium, years. Thanks to the toss of a coin, FCZ making the Champions League group Ticketcorner outlets in town. There see Letzigrund. The one leaning Der Stadtclub (‘The City Club’) date reached the semi-final of the European stage for the first time, the prestigious are also online sales via Eventim towards FCZ is the Versus-Bar at back to 1896. Cup in 1964. An ageing Real Madrid visits of Real Madrid, Milan and (eventimsports.de/ols/fcz-onlineshop). Badenerstraße 281. side duly tonked the Swiss 6-0 at the Marseille filling the rebuilt Letzigrund. On the day, stadium ticket windows The original FC Zürich wore red, Bernabéu. After Nägeli’s death in open 90min before kick-off. When the club had its offices on changing to their current blue and 1979 came stagnation and relegation. The Swiss Cup win of 2016 coincided Letzigraben, nearby Café Letzistübli at white in 1909, by which time they had Thanks to a goalscoring machine from with relegation from the Swiss Super The cheapest admission of SF20 is for Albisriederstraße 171 was patronised picked up a first Swiss title. Conakry, the Guinean Keita, Zürich League, and fans storming the players’ standing in the home end (Sektor D). by employees and officials.

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