Northern Territory State of Mind
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I’m in a Northern Territory State of Mind WIN a 3-night Top End escape for two IN PARTNERSHIP WITH my other address adinahotels.com Spacious studio, 1 and 2 bedroom self-contained apartments with hotel service on the Darwin Waterfront Adina Apartment Hotel Darwin Waterfront my other address WELCOME TO THE adinahotels.com Northern Territory Famed worldwide for its outback desert landscapes and its Indigenous art and experiences, this vast territory (1.4 million square kilometres) is an ancient, spiritual wonderland of gorges, plateaus, rivers and floodplains teeming with extraordinary wildlife. Uluru is rightfully a world wonder, but there is so much more to see and do there. Spacious studio, 1 and 2 bedroom self-contained apartments with hotel service on the Darwin Waterfront WIN! See page 38 to win a 3-night stay at Adina Darwin for two PLUS a Jumping Crocodiles experience Photo: Ant Photo: Ong Adina Apartment Hotel Darwin Waterfront 3 DEDICATED TO EXPLORING AND CELEBRATING THE REAL AUSTRALIA TRULYAUS.COM Photo: Luke Tscharke Photography Tscharke Luke Photo: Photo: Tourism NT Tourism Photo: What’s inside 06 Darwin 26 Katherine River Publisher Our most Northern capital, At every bend, the Michelle Hespe is a melting pot of cultures. mighty Katherine River publisher@ reveals another reason publishingbychelle.com 10 East Arnhem Land to fall in love with the Assistant Editor Dive into one of Australia’s majestic Top End. Bethany Plint last remaining strongholds editorial@ publishingbychelle.com of Indigenous culture. 30 Groote Eylandt Take a journey through Editorial Assistant Jay Winter 14 Tiwi Islands thousands of years of edassistant@ The Tiwi cherish their art incredible Aboriginal publishingbychelle.com and culture almost as much culture. Brand & as their Aussie Rules footy. Communications 34 Win an extraordinary Manager Effe Sandas 18 Uluru 3-night Top End advertising@ Marvel at the iconic 600 experience publishingbychelle.com million-year-old monolith. Explore the Top End with Contributors a base at Adina Darwin. Jac Taylor 22 Kakadu Jill Innamorati-Varley Jennifer Johnston 20,000 square kilometres For more stories on the Jacqui Lang of unmatched natural NT, visit trulyaus.com/ Samuel Steinberg beauty. northern-territory NT Tourism image: Cover 5 Darwin WORDS: JENNIFER JOHNSTON 6 Darwin is renowned for fun and adventure, but you can also find an interesting mix of history, tasty food and the slightly obscure in the Top End – when you know where to look. Darwin’s offbeat character is a by- product not only of its geographical location – history and a few natural events also played a role. During World War II, the city was heavily bombed by the same Japanese Air Force that struck Pearl Harbor three months earlier. Then, in the early hours of Christmas morning 1974, Cyclone Tracy unleashed its fury, wiping out a devastating 70 per cent of the city. Another subsequent rebuild contributed to the cosmopolitan city’s current ‘youthful’ appearance. Top Darwin attractions The Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory is where you’ll find Sweetheart, the most famous of all the NT’s saltwater crocs. The museum’s gallery includes an array of Aboriginal art and an interactive section on Cyclone Tracy. To see real-life crocs, take a day trip out to the Adelaide River and join a Spectacular Jumping Crocodile Cruise. There’s no cages and no perspex boxes – just you, a team of expert local guides and a few hundred mighty NT Tourism Photos: saltwater crocodiles cruising along. Darwin’s exciting food scene A well-known relic from World War II This melting pot of a city has days is the Qantas Hangar in Parap. had ingredients thrown in that Built in 1934 to house the Aussie could have clashed terribly, sitting airline’s passenger planes, the hangar as it does on the cusp of Asia, yet is now home to an eclectic collection squarely in the cradle of Aboriginal of vintage vehicles and gadgets homelands. And with a fascinating belonging to the Motor Vehicle heritage of European settlement to Enthusiasts Club. boot. After sunset, why not track down the Yet somehow it all blends rather origins of the delicious fragrances that wondrously. You can have a breakfast linger on the balmy night air at Mindil laksa at the Parap Village Markets, Beach Sunset Market? Every Sunday, and a classic lunch of wild barra and a variety of stalls showcase local local bush pepper by the sea. Then, goods including food, craft, local art end the day with tropical cocktails at and the quirky, and very Territorian, Mindil Beach and haute cuisine lit by crocodile skulls. the city’s famously vibrant sunsets. For evening entertainment, check out Darwin’s steamy weather doesn’t the outdoor Deckchair Cinema on the preclude a steaming cup of coffee (or edge of Darwin Harbour. The sound local chai). The city’s coffee culture is of water gently lapping the shoreline just about to boil over with hipster- and the blanket of starry skies above grade cafes popping up in alleyways beats any air-conditioned cinema. throughout town. WHY WE LOVE IT WHEN TO GO The Indigenous history of Darwin is The Top End experiences a year- best captured in the extraordinary round tropical climate so there’s work produced by artists from around never a bad time to go, however, the Top End. Be sure to visit one of the the region does have two distinct locally run Indigenous galleries during seasons: dry (May to Aoctober) and your visit. wet (November to April). THIS IS AN EXCERPT. READ THE FULL STORY HERE 8 See Darwin’s multicultural diver- sity on full display at the Mindil Beach Sunset Market every Sun- day from April to October. Photos: Tourism NT Tourism Photos: 9 10 East Arnhem Land WORDS: JAC TAYLOR Unspoilt wilderness and sprawling Places to visit wetlands teeming with wildlife define Dhimurru Recreational Area is an this special corner of the globe. outdoor-lover’s dream, where sandy Covering more than 90,000 square white beaches stretch along the coast kilometres, this remote region boasts and vast networks of waterways spectacular landscapes that vary from weave through open forests further remote islands and thick rainforest inland. The opportunities for fishing, to jagged coastline and towering boating and camping are seemingly escarpments. endless. East Arnhem Land is one of Australia’s The Wurrwurrwuy Macassan last remaining strongholds of Beach Interpretive Walk offers a traditional Indigenous culture. As view into the trading history the land is still held by its traditional between the Yolgnu and the owners, visitors must obtain a permit Macassans, who visited the region to enter. This system is designed from Indonesia in the 1700s. The to help protect and privacy of trail’s distinctive stone arrangements Yolngu communities, preserve their were constructed more than a culture and safeguard the natural century ago by local clans to educate environment. future generations. Photos: Tourism NT Tourism Photos: 11 Located in Yirrkala, the Buku- For an unforgettable overnight Larrnggay Mulka Centre is home experience, small groups now have to a collection of precious Indigenous the opportunity to travel to the Yolngu artefacts, including bark paintings homelands and stay with the proud and rare Yolgnu engravings. Here, carriers of the world’s oldest living visitors can learn about the role the culture. Members of the Aboriginal Yolgnu played in World War II, as Yirrkala Country clan eagerly share well as hearing firsthand accounts their stories, traditions and daily of political movements and petitions activities, including guided walks to that helped shape the Yirrkala area as learn about plant medicine, fishing it is today. expeditions to catch the evening’s meal, and collecting pandanus leaves Ways to explore East Arnhem Land to weave baskets for gathering food. A safari with Outback Spirit will introduce you to the Gove Peninsula How to get there of the Yolngu people and the ancient Daily flights from Darwin and Cairns cave systems of Mount Borradaile. drop visitors right in the heart of The company’s partnership with East Arnhem Land at Gove Airport. the traditional owners of the land Adventurous types should consider means you might be lucky enough renting a 4WD to take on the to be schooled by a local Indigenous Central Arnhem Road. A mixture of guide. You’ll be blown away by the sealed, dirt and gravel roads, this knowledge they share, built up over epic 500-kilometre journey, from 60,000 years [according to Outback 50 kilometres south of Katherine to Spirit website] in the region. It’s one Nhulunbuy on the Gove Peninsula, of the most impactful and educational reveals extraordinary scenery that adventures you can have with our ranges from vast flood plains to country’s First People. tropical coastline. WHY WE LOVE IT WHEN TO GO The Yolngu present a strong, cultural While the dry season (June to face to the world. Their songlines are September) is the most popular remarkably intact in comparison to time to visit, keen fisherman should many others in Australia and their aim for the runoff season during relationship with the land is enduring April and May when the barramundi and unbreakable. are biting. THIS IS AN EXCERPT. READ THE FULL STORY HERE 12 “Walkabout as a concept is misunderstood. This bush is our university; the trees, the land – it’s all knowledge, and there’s a lot to learn.” - Marcus Lacey, Yolngu Elder Photos: Tourism NT Tourism Photos: 13 Tiwi Islands WORDS: MICHELLE HESPE The isolation of the Tiwi Islands has Island (one of only two inhabited helped its people to largely retain their Tiwi Islands). He intended to set up Indigenous identity for.