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Adina Apartment Hotel Darwin Waterfront my other address WELCOME TO THE adinahotels.com Northern Territory Famed worldwide for its outback desert landscapes and its Indigenous art and experiences, this vast territory (1.4 million square kilometres) is an ancient, spiritual wonderland of gorges, plateaus, rivers and floodplains teeming with extraordinary wildlife. Uluru is rightfully a world wonder, but there is so much more to see and do there.

Spacious studio, 1 and 2 bedroom self-contained apartments with hotel service on the Darwin Waterfront WIN! See page 38 to win a 3-night stay at Adina Darwin for two PLUS a Jumping Crocodiles experience Photo: Ant Photo: Ong

Adina Apartment Hotel Darwin Waterfront 3 DEDICATED TO EXPLORING AND CELEBRATING THE REAL

TRULYAUS.COM Photo: Luke Tscharke Photography Tscharke Luke Photo: Photo: Tourism NT Tourism Photo:

What’s inside 06 Darwin 26 Katherine River Publisher Our most Northern capital, At every bend, the Michelle Hespe is a melting pot of cultures. mighty Katherine River publisher@ reveals another reason publishingbychelle.com 10 East to fall in love with the Assistant Editor Dive into one of Australia’s majestic Top End. Bethany Plint last remaining strongholds editorial@ publishingbychelle.com of Indigenous culture. 30 Take a journey through Editorial Assistant Jay Winter 14 thousands of years of edassistant@ The Tiwi cherish their art incredible Aboriginal publishingbychelle.com and culture almost as much culture. Brand & as their Aussie Rules footy. Communications 34 Win an extraordinary Manager Effe Sandas 18 Uluru 3-night Top End advertising@ Marvel at the iconic 600 experience publishingbychelle.com million-year-old monolith. Explore the Top End with Contributors a base at Adina Darwin. Jac Taylor 22 Kakadu Jill Innamorati-Varley Jennifer Johnston 20,000 square kilometres For more stories on the Jacqui Lang of unmatched natural NT, visit trulyaus.com/ Samuel Steinberg

beauty. northern-territory NT Tourism image: Cover

5 Darwin WORDS: JENNIFER JOHNSTON

6 Darwin is renowned for fun and adventure, but you can also find an interesting mix of history, tasty food and the slightly obscure in the Top End – when you know where to look.

Darwin’s offbeat character is a by- product not only of its geographical location – history and a few natural events also played a role. During World War II, the city was heavily bombed by the same Japanese Air Force that struck Pearl Harbor three months earlier. Then, in the early hours of Christmas morning 1974, unleashed its fury, wiping out a devastating 70 per cent of the city. Another subsequent rebuild contributed to the cosmopolitan city’s current ‘youthful’ appearance.

Top Darwin attractions The Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory is where you’ll find Sweetheart, the most famous of all the NT’s saltwater crocs. The museum’s gallery includes an array of Aboriginal art and an interactive section on Cyclone Tracy.

To see real-life crocs, take a day trip out to the Adelaide River and join a Spectacular Jumping Crocodile Cruise. There’s no cages and no perspex boxes – just you, a team of expert

local guides and a few hundred mighty NT Tourism Photos: saltwater crocodiles cruising along. Darwin’s exciting food scene A well-known relic from World War II This melting pot of a city has days is the Qantas Hangar in Parap. had ingredients thrown in that Built in 1934 to house the Aussie could have clashed terribly, sitting airline’s passenger planes, the hangar as it does on the cusp of Asia, yet is now home to an eclectic collection squarely in the cradle of Aboriginal of vintage vehicles and gadgets homelands. And with a fascinating belonging to the Motor Vehicle heritage of European settlement to Enthusiasts Club. boot.

After sunset, why not track down the Yet somehow it all blends rather origins of the delicious fragrances that wondrously. You can have a breakfast linger on the balmy night air at Mindil laksa at the Parap Village Markets, Beach Sunset Market? Every Sunday, and a classic lunch of wild barra and a variety of stalls showcase local local bush pepper by the sea. Then, goods including food, craft, local art end the day with tropical cocktails at and the quirky, and very Territorian, Mindil Beach and haute cuisine lit by crocodile skulls. the city’s famously vibrant sunsets.

For evening entertainment, check out Darwin’s steamy weather doesn’t the outdoor Deckchair Cinema on the preclude a steaming cup of coffee (or edge of Darwin Harbour. The sound local chai). The city’s coffee culture is of water gently lapping the shoreline just about to boil over with hipster- and the blanket of starry skies above grade cafes popping up in alleyways beats any air-conditioned cinema. throughout town.

WHY WE LOVE IT WHEN TO GO The Indigenous history of Darwin is The Top End experiences a year- best captured in the extraordinary round tropical climate so there’s work produced by artists from around never a bad time to go, however, the Top End. Be sure to visit one of the the region does have two distinct locally run Indigenous galleries during seasons: dry (May to Aoctober) and your visit. wet (November to April).

THIS IS AN EXCERPT. READ THE FULL STORY HERE 8 See Darwin’s multicultural diver- sity on full display at the Mindil Beach Sunset Market every Sun- day from April to October. Photos: Tourism NT Tourism Photos:

9 10 environment. culture andsafeguard thenatural communities, preserve their to helpprotect andprivacy of to enter. This system isdesigned owners, visitors mustobtain apermit the landisstillheld by itstraditional traditional Indigenous culture. As last remaining strongholds of East Arnhem Land isoneof Australia’s escarpments. to jagged coastline andtowering remote islandsand thickrainforest spectacular landscapesthat vary from kilometres, thisremote region boasts Covering more than90,000square this specialcorner of theglobe. wetlands teeming with wildlife define Unspoilt wilderness andsprawling East Arnhem Land East Arnhem WORDS: JACWORDS: TAYLOR future generations. century ago by educate localclansto were constructed more thana trail’s distinctive stonearrangements from Indonesia inthe1700s. The Macassans, who visited theregion between the Yolgnu andthe view into thetrading history Beach Interpretive Walk offers a TheWurrwurrwuy Macassan endless. boating andcampingare seemingly inland. The opportunities for fishing, weave through openforests further and vast networks of waterways white beachesstretch along thecoast outdoor-lover’s dream, where sandy Dhimurru Recreational Area isan to visit Places

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Photos: Tourism NT Located in Yirrkala, the Buku- For an unforgettable overnight Larrnggay Mulka Centre is home experience, small groups now have to a collection of precious Indigenous the opportunity to travel to the Yolngu artefacts, including bark paintings homelands and stay with the proud and rare Yolgnu engravings. Here, carriers of the world’s oldest living visitors can learn about the role the culture. Members of the Aboriginal Yolgnu played in World War II, as Yirrkala Country clan eagerly share well as hearing firsthand accounts their stories, traditions and daily of political movements and petitions activities, including guided walks to that helped shape the Yirrkala area as learn about plant medicine, fishing it is today. expeditions to catch the evening’s meal, and collecting pandanus leaves Ways to explore East Arnhem Land to weave baskets for gathering food. A safari with Outback Spirit will introduce you to the Gove Peninsula How to get there of the Yolngu people and the ancient Daily flights from Darwin and Cairns cave systems of Mount Borradaile. drop visitors right in the heart of The company’s partnership with East Arnhem Land at Gove Airport. the traditional owners of the land Adventurous types should consider means you might be lucky enough renting a 4WD to take on the to be schooled by a local Indigenous Central Arnhem Road. A mixture of guide. You’ll be blown away by the sealed, dirt and gravel roads, this knowledge they share, built up over epic 500-kilometre journey, from 60,000 years [according to Outback 50 kilometres south of Katherine to Spirit website] in the region. It’s one on the Gove Peninsula, of the most impactful and educational reveals extraordinary scenery that adventures you can have with our ranges from vast flood plains to country’s First People. tropical coastline.

WHY WE LOVE IT WHEN TO GO The Yolngu present a strong, cultural While the dry season (June to face to the world. Their songlines are September) is the most popular remarkably intact in comparison to time to visit, keen fisherman should many others in Australia and their aim for the runoff season during relationship with the land is enduring April and May when the barramundi and unbreakable. are biting.

THIS IS AN EXCERPT. READ THE FULL STORY HERE 12 “Walkabout as a concept is misunderstood. This bush is our university; the trees, the land – it’s all knowledge, and there’s a lot to learn.” - Marcus Lacey, Yolngu Elder Photos: Tourism NT Tourism Photos:

13 Tiwi Islands WORDS: MICHELLE HESPE

The isolation of the Tiwi Islands has Island (one of only two inhabited helped its people to largely retain their Tiwi Islands). He intended to set up Indigenous identity for. However, with a mission but faced resistance from the arrival of Catholicism in 1911, the locals who were fiercely devoted a new set of values, practices and to guarding their isolated existence. customs took root. Since then, the After spending 10 years on the merging of Catholicism and traditional islands learning Tiwi ways, he sprang Tiwi culture has continued to evolve into action when a girl called Martina and flourish. came to him, begging to be spared from marrying an elder. History of the Tiwis In 1910, a French Catholic priest Gsell gave her refuge and Martina named Francis Xavier Gsell was became known as his first wife. Many

Photo: Michelle Hespe Michelle Photo: granted 4,000 hectares on Bathurst young women followed and were

14 cared for by the nuns who also lived on the mission.

When Gsell left the Tiwi Islands in 1938, he had150 ‘wives’. The Tiwi people realised that the girls were safe with him and that they were allowed to maintain their traditional ways. Today on Bathurst and Melville islands, this mixing of two cultures is ever apparent. It’s a place where two unbelievably different worlds spectacularly collided, and a new way of living was born.

Art and culture in the Tiwis Tiwi Islander art generally expands upon traditional motifs drawn from Tiwi people’s understanding of cultural cosmologies. However, it has

definitely evolved in recent years. For Hespe and Michelle NT Tourism Photos:

15 instance, in the past only ochre tones of carved poles during the pukumani were applied to artworks (be they funeral ceremony. carvings, paintings or screen-prints). Today, bright and even fluorescent Another widespread passion among colours are used by local artists. Tiwi people is Aussie Rules football. This practice is particularly prevalent Each year, fans come in their droves at Tiwi Design – an art centre that to watch the grand final and revel warmly welcomes visitors from all in the atmosphere. It’s the only day over the world. of the year when visitors are not required to obtain a permit. A stone’s throw from the beach in the Wurrumiyanga community – More recently, the Tiwi Islands population 1,500 – on Bathurst Island, received widespread coverage through Tiwi Design consists of a carver’s the movie Top End Wedding, starring shelter, pottery studio, screen-printing and produced by Miranda Tapsell. studio, painting studio and gallery. The church featured in the film is now a top tourist attraction, but it’s In the small village of Milikapiti on more than just a great photo-op; neighbouring Melville Island, the the church is a physical embodiment gallery at Jilamara Arts and Crafts of the eclectic, visual paradigms of Association displays the works Catholicism and traditional Tiwi life. of about 30 artists, inspired by the sun and stars, animals such How to get there as dugongs and crocodile scales, The Tiwi Islands are located about 90 spines and markings. The Tiwi word kilometres off the coast of Darwin in jilamara, which roughly translates to Australia’s Northern Territory. Only ‘design’, refers to the intricate ochre two of the nine islands are inhabited patterning traditionally applied to the and can be reached by boat with bodies of dancers and on the surface SeaLink.

WHY WE LOVE IT WHEN TO GO Dozens of tours allow visitors to The Tiwi are crazy about two things: explore the islands’ remote landscapes, art and Aussie Rules. Visit Bathurst which range from tropical rainforest Island on grand final footy day for an to clay-like cliffs, white-sand chance to buy Tiwi island artwork and beaches, dense jungle and inviting experience the buzz of the big game rock pools. with the locals.

THIS IS AN EXCERPT. READ THE FULL STORY HERE 16 Rusty pink cliffs melt into creamy coastal stretches, lapped by the Arafura Sea on Melville Island. Photo: Tourism NT Tourism Photo:

17 Uluru WORDS: SAMUEL STEINBERG Photo: Tourism NT Tourism Photo: 18 the 15-kilometre loop. walking, you canquite easily complete area, and with thespeedboostover small slopesfor riding around the tours. There are plenty of trails and the equally popular Uluru motorcycle a greener, more active alternativeto circumnavigaterock.enormous the It’s Cycling isanother great way to the base. take asomewhat bumpy ridearound hopatopperhaps, isto acameland ways to experience it. The most fun, 2019 butthere are plenty of other Climbing Uluru was finally banned in Ways to experience Uluru the Anangu people. sacred tothetraditional landowners, and spiritualsignificance andare National Park are steepedincultural Uluru-KatasurroundingTjuta The awe-inspiring rock and 348-metre-tall sandstonemonolith. marvel at the600-million-year-old, visitors from allover the world to Springs, thisremote attraction draws About 450kilometres southof Alice geologicalwonder. as Australia’s mostrecognisable Uluru risesfrom thespinifex plains the Northern Territory’s Red Centre, The oneandonly truesymbol of but inafar more leisurely fashion. aerial views andtheadrenaline rush air blowing in your face, spectacular balloon ride. You still get thefresh a happy medium? Opt for ahot air towards itonatandemskydive. Need always jumpout of aplaneandhurtle helicopter isn’t enough, you could And if seeingitfrom thesafety of a scenic flight over Uluru isamust. For asplash-outexperience, a 19

Photo:s Tourism NT Bruce Munro’s Field of Light is a spectacular light installation in the desert just beyond Uluru. Some 50,000 coloured stems of light dazzle and delight as they bring the figurative sacred images of Uluru to life. The exhibition, aptly named Tili Wiru Tjuta Nyakutjaku or ‘looking at lots of beautiful lights’ in local , spans more than seven football fields and is the artist’s largest work to date.

One very special activity you can do for free is to find a quiet spot, throw down a picnic blanket and settle in for the greatest show on earth. The sky above Uluru has such little light pollution that spectacular astronomical phenomena such as the Magellanic Clouds and the famous Southern Cross constellation can be seen by the

Photo: Mark Pickthall Photo: naked eye.

WHY WE LOVE IT WHEN TO GO There are countless ways to admire Uluru is surrounded by desert so Uluru without destroying it. We hope extreme temperatures on both these alternative methods foster ends are to be expected. The month a deeper respect for the spiritual of September offers comfortable significance of sacred Indigenous temperatures with the added bonus of lands. falling in wildflower season.

THIS IS AN EXCERPT. READ THE FULL STORY HERE 20 Since climbing was banned at Uluru, visitors have found more respectful ways to marvel at the ancient monolith. Photo: Tourism NT Tourism Photo:

21 Photo: Tourism NT Tourism Photo:

22 Kakadu WORDS: MICHELLE HESPE

Kakadu National Park is 20,000 square kilometres of unmatched natural beauty. Looming escarpments, lush wetlands, tranquil waterholes and sacred Indigenous sites converge to make this one of Australia’s most remarkable wilderness areas. More than half of Kakadu National Park is Aboriginal land, and with our nation’s First People thought to have occupied the park for more than 65,000 years, this makes them the oldest surviving culture on earth. It’s also home to 280 species of bird (one-third of all Australian birds), 2,000 plant species and a staggering 10,000 crocodiles.

Must-see spots in Kakadu Yellow Water Billabong is the region’s most famous wetland, located at the end of Jim Jim Creek, which flows on from South Alligator River. It’s a birdwatcher’s paradise – as its wetlands, river channels, floodplains and swamps are home to more than 60 bird species.

Ubirr is a sacred place in Kakadu where hundreds of pieces of rock art tell stories of creation, life and the traditional foods in the area. At the base of the lookout are remarkably

23 Photo: Ant Photo: Ong

intact cave drawings depicting the landscape. Local women demonstrate type of animals hunted by traditional the art of weaving using pandanus people. One in particular, located on leaves and natural dyes, while a rocky outcrop as high as a three- men share age-old painting storey building, is said to have been techniques and insights into their painted by Mimi spirits. traditional way of life.

The Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural How to explore Kakadu Centre hosts regular pop-up events To experience the wild nature of that offer visitors the chance to spend Kakadu, book a tour that gets you time with traditional landowners and up close and personal with the birds, learn about the history and cultural salties, buffalo and other creatures of significance of the extraordinary this mesmerising place.

WHY WE LOVE IT WHEN TO GO It’s the wild, largely untamed ancient Some say the best time to visit Kakadu outback Australia that has been a is in the dry season (June–August), sacred place to because during the wet season it rains for tens of thousands of years. There’s and is extremely hot. However, if you a palpable sense of magic in Kakadu like a good storm, the wet season can National Park. be spectacular.

24 THIS IS AN EXCERPT. READ THE FULL STORY HERE Kakadu is 20,000 square kilometres of pure, untamed tranquility, less than two hours from Darwin but is a world unto itself.

25 Katherine River

Nearly 330 kilometres long, the 500 kilometres across the country. mighty Katherine River snakes Its location makes it an ideal through the Northern Territory’s starting point for exploring the Nitmiluk National Park. At every spectacular Katherine River. bend and gorge, the river unveils another aspect of the Top End‘s Kayaking the Katherine River ever-changing landscape. It is a One of the most exhilarating and hive of activity and the lifeblood rewarding ways to soak up the of dozens of native species, from beauty of the Katherine River is big crocs to tiny tadpoles. using your own paddling power. The town of Katherine is often Half-, full- and multi-day canoe referred to as the ‘Crossroads of and kayaking trips are popular the North’ as it sits at the junction among those who don’t mind a of the , linking bit of hard work and are happy to north to south, and the Victoria forgo the luxuries of a hotel for a Highway, stretching more tgan few nights. You’ll spend the day

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Photo: Tourism NT weaving around the bends, passing culture and heritage at rock art sites mangroves and clusters of paperbarks, and on guided walks through the taking on the occasional rapid and national park. Nearby, Edith Falls, a keeping an eye out for local wildlife. lush, tropical waterhole, makes for Along the way you’ll see bright green a refreshing swim spot and a picnic pandanus plants, wallabies hopping lunch surrounded by unspoilt Top End past and monitor lizards basking wilderness will round out the whole on the riverbank. There’s even the experience. occasional croc lurking. How to get there In the evening, you’ll set up your For freedom and flexibility, driving swag, get a campfire going and spend is a great option for getting to the the evening under an extraordinary major stops along the Katherine River. night sky with the sounds of the bush The roads are well maintained and humming in the background. It’s a signposted. Thrifty and Hertz offer truly immersive experience and one rentals from the town of Katherine, you’ll never forget. and many more are available in Darwin. If that’s a little too hands-on for you, a guided day trip may be more For rail enthusiasts, the journey your style. Many companies offer between Adelaide and Darwin on excursions from Darwin that cover the Ghan is a classic trip, with one all the highlights. You’ll discover the of the major ports of call being the vast network of gorges carved into town of Katherine. From here, plenty ancient sandstone rock on a gentle of guided day trips are available for river cruise through Katherine Gorge, exploring the top spots a little further as well as learn about Indigenous afield.

WHY WE LOVE IT WHEN TO GO The Katherine River is steeped in The water level drops significantly Aboriginal history and culture. during the dry season, and the rapids Having someone in-the-know explain are wild during the wet season. Visiting the significance of the area with you during the shoulder seasons is your makes for a truly memorable trip. best bet.

THIS IS AN EXCERPT. READ THE FULL STORY HERE 28 Camping alongside the Katherine River, it’s a joy to look up at the giant constellations above, unmarred by city lights. Photo: Tourism NT Tourism Photo:

29 Groote Eylandt WORDS: JILL INNAMORATI-VARLEYI can often be caught saying, “I don’t have a sweet tooth; I’m a savoury girl. Give me wine, cheese and olives over sweet things any day.” This statement was once true, but it’s based on the fact that, growing up, all my parents had stashed was a family block of Cadbury’s Dairy Milk chocolate. If it was a really posh occasion, out came the Top Deck. We had Lipton tea in the pantry and honey was a no-name affair from Franklins. So it’s no wonder that when I visited my first wine region and tasted the local produce from markets bursting with wickedly wonderful fresh goodness, I had to reassess what my tastebuds had been telling me since primary school: I did have a sweet tooth after all.

When I visited Margaret River for the first time 15 years ago, I fell in love. Perhaps it was the blending of a well- established surf culture and

30 14 clansthere. it isthefirst language spoken by all Uncommonly for Indigenous groups, to beoneof the oldestin Australia. people. Their language isthought and hometothe Anindilyakwa archipelago of 40smaller islands from south.It northto ispartof an from eastto west and60kilometres Groote measures 50kilometres Tasmania, Melville andKangaroo, fourth-largest islandin Australia after lucky experience. enoughto The Aboriginal culture few tourists are thousands of years of remarkable Eylandt isajourney through the Northern Territory, Groote In theremote far reaches of until 1908. (sea cucumber), visiting theislandup from Indonesia insearch of trepang Groote, when they began travelling the first foreigners to set foot on 400 years ago, theMacassans were Milyakburra andUmbakumba. Some Indigenous communities: Angurugu, to 1,500peopleacross three main 8,000 years. Today, Groote ishome The Anindilyakwa have lived here for coast of Arnhem Land). the Gulf of Carpentaria (off theeast Island) or know of its whereabouts in Groote Eylandt (Dutch for Great many people who have heard of Ask around and you won’ttoo find 31

Photos: Tourism NT Art and culture on Groote Eylandt In a place where its people fully embrace their ties to the land, the Anindilyakwa Arts and Cultural Centre is a key attraction on Groote. It’s located on the grounds of Groote Eylandt Lodge, a gorgeous waterfront resort made up of 60 suites, a day spa, fishing lodge and swimming pool. At the Centre, cultural heritage is explored through all kinds of traditional art, such as painting and of language and cultural resources basket and mat weaving. Guests can relating to the Indigenous people. meet with local Indigenous artists whose work is highly prized by Fishing adventures around Groote collectors all over the world. A big drawcard for visitors is the abundance of marine life in the The island also hosts a Language surrounding waters of the Arafura Centre. It was known as the Sea. Even novices can drop a line ‘Linguistics Centre’ for many years from one of two luxury fishing boats when the Church Missionary Society operated from the Groote Eylandt was largely in control of Groote’s Lodge — East Wind and West Wind affairs up until 1978. In 2006, the — and have fish jump right onto the Anindilyakwa Land Council took end of your hook. Swimming in the responsibility for the oversight of sea isn’t an option, unless you want Anindilyakwa language work, and to dodge crocs — or sharks. You may today it strives to promote, maintain even find yourself hauling in reef and preserve it through a collection sharks with your fishing rod.

WHY WE LOVE IT WHEN TO GO Groote Eylandt is one of the rare Groote Eylandt has two main seasons: wet places where Indigenous culture and dry. The wet season begins around and heritage have been incredibly November/December and goes until about well preserved, and guests are April/May. Dry season spans fro May/June to warmly welcomed to learn about it. October, commonly with 28-33 degree days.

THIS IS AN EXCERPT. READ THE FULL STORY HERE 32 Photos: Tourism NT Tourism Photos:

33 Win a 3-night Top End escape

Enter to win a 3-night stay in Darwin for two We’ve teamed up with Adina Apartment Hotel to give away an unforgetable Darwin adventure. Located close to Darwin’s major attractions, restaurants and cafes, these self-contained apartments are fully-equipped with all the comforts of home. You’ll also get to meet some NT legends – otherwise known as salties.

Prize includes: - 3 nights accommodation at Adina Apartment Hotel Darwin Waterfront - Spectacular Jumping Crocodile Cruise for two

To enter, visit trulyaus.com/darwin-state-of-mind and subscribe to the newsletter.

Terms & conditions apply. See trulyaus.com for details. IN PARTNERSHIP WITH