Sangha Lodge, 2018

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Sangha Lodge, 2018 Central African Republic – April 2018. Trip report by Charles Foley. What can you say about Dzanga Bai. Personally I think it's the ‘Serengeti of the forest’, as surely no other forest environment anywhere on the planet offers the same possibility of seeing large herds of stunning forest animals all in one place. Forest Elephants, Forest Buffalo, Giant Forest Hog, Red River Gog, and, of course the marvellous Bongo, can all be seen here. And I can’t think of any other site in Africa where one can watch such large numbers (sometimes over 100) of Forest Elephants drinking, interacting and socializing in one area. It's a place that any nature lover and certainly all mammal watchers need to have on their ‘must visit’ list. My WCS colleague, Andrea Turkalo, had been studying the elephants in the Bai for close to 20 years and I figured that one day I’d make it out there to visit her on a work trip. However, we always end up meeting in boring places like NY or Nairobi instead, and last year she moved back to the US, putting the kibosh on the visit idea. When some friends in Tanzania mooted the idea of visiting, I decided the time was right and one had to seize the day. Bear in mind that the trip is eye-wateringly expensive; it’s very far from anywhere and one has to pay for a charter flight to get there (the lodge has stopped taking drive-in guests, as any problems encountered on the roads ended up in their lap). But I convinced myself that it would be the perfect place for me to turn 50, and sending the kids to college is probably an over-rated idea anyway… I went with five other close friends who I’d known for many years and who all work in the tourism industry. Ethan Kinsey, who leads safaris mostly in Tanzania and the Virungas, did most of the leg-work in liaising with the lodge and organising our visas. [Speaking of which, the Virungas offers far cheaper Mountain Gorilla watching than Uganda and Rwanda, and takes kids as young as 12, unlike most other places where you have to wait until they’re 16. We’ll probably do that over a long weekend next year when our youngest turns 12. The Park is currently closed because of kidnappings of tourists, but hopefully it opens up again soon.] The Central African Republic has had its fair share of instability, with large areas currently controlled by rebels, and these days it is seemingly held together by UN peacekeepers. Almost all of the planes at Bangui airport were UN aircraft, except for a few private charter aircraft. The UN troops and one of the main rebel groups started shooting at each other in Bangui a few days before we arrived, but, as is often the case with these types of incidences, they sound a lot worse in the news than they actually are on the ground and we experienced no problems during our time there. However, there is no telling how long the status quo will last, so I suggest you prioritise a trip soon if you want to visit. I believe that previously people flying into CAR to stay at Sangha Lodge had to spend a night in Bangui, as the Air France flight arrived too late for the charter to make it safely to the lodge. However, Kenya Airways now flies from Nairobi (at some expense mind you), and the arrival and departure times mean you just need an hour or so at the airport. One of Rods fixers will meet you at the airport and guide you through the process. Oh I do love myself a good fixer! Its great to see them nudging, cajoling, facilitating, threatening and shouting their way through the airport, changing their demeanour according to the status of the person they’re dealing with. This chap was great, and had ample opportunity to demonstrate his skill set. From the moment you go through arrivals till the time you get on your plane you pass through no fewer than 14 different desks, and your boarding pass, itinerary and passport end up covered in some wonderfully printed stamps. My favourite stop was having to wait for a mini-bus to drive us the 25 yards from the terminal to the plane. An important point for those of us living in Africa, or places where CAR embassies are thin on the ground, is that the lodge can organise your visa for you. US citizens don’t need them, but as a Brit I did, and our only other option was dealing with the nightmare that is the French Embassy in Dar. Just make sure you bring a passport photo with you as you’ll need one to attach to your application. A South African couple, Rod and Tamar Cassidy, arrived in CAR a decade ago on a birding trip (they are top notch birders), and decided to stay and set up a lodge. And thank goodness they did, because the only other real option is a government run lodge which is right next to the local village, meaning you’d almost certainly develop an intimate knowledge of the current Congo dance tune favourites emanating from the local discos if you stay there. I can’t even begin to imagine the hassles one has to deal with running a lodge in a remote part of CAR, but Rod and Tamar seem to take it all in their stride and are there to stay. They have acquired a fairly large concession area, with a number of bais that they are intending to develop, but at the moment most of the activities concentrate within the nearby National Park (Bai visits and gorilla trekking) and on a series of trails they have opened up around or close to their lodge. The highlight of my trip, and probably everyone else’s too, are the visits to Dzanga Bai. The Bai is in the Park, and to get there you drive for about an hour, then walk for 40 minutes. As you approach the Bai you start hearing elephant sounds, and then you walk out of the forest to the research platform and the Bai opens up before you. We had specifically chosen to come in April because that is apparently that is the best month to see Bongo, and we weren’t disappointed. The very first animals I saw in the Bai, as I started to climb up the platform, were two male Bongos chasing each other. They were part of a herd of 31 Bongo that spent the whole day in the Bai – or at least the time we were there, from morning to mid-afternoon. Rod says that Bongo are sometimes seen in March and May, but for some reason April is the preferred month for them to visit the Bai. People were seeing them approximately once every three days in the Bai in April, and we only saw them on our first day there. I had never seen Forest elephants before so this was a key target species for me on this trip. I wasn’t disappointed. There were mothers with calves, young bulls, old bulls, and even a mother with a calf a few hours old. The elephants spend a lot of time extracting minerals from the deep pools in the Bai. The adults extend their trunks as deep as they can into a pool, often kneeling and pushing their heads into the water, sometimes right up to their ears. This way they can probably reach 8 foot or deeper into the hole. They then blow air out of their trunks, which presumably helped release the minerals from the mud at the bottom of the pool, which they then carefully suck up in their trunks and deposit in their mouths. At one point there were over 100 elephants in the Bai, drinking, splashing mud and interacting. However, apparently these high numbers are unusual, and probably a symptom of poaching pressure in other parts of the ecosystem. Certainly we saw at least one family group with a demographic structure that clearly indicated the recent loss of an adult female. The Sitatunga have disappeared from the Bai this year, but, in addition to the elephants, there was a small group of Forest Buffalo using the Bai pretty much the whole time, and we also saw two Giant Forest Hogs and 18 Red River Hogs, although the latter only at night. As others have mentioned, the sweat bees can be pretty annoying, so be sure to take a mosquito head-net with you if you’re susceptible to them. Most of our party put on the nets after a while, although two didn’t seem bothered by them. We arranged through the lodge to spend a night at the Bai, which I would highly recommend. Apparently permission is at the discretion of the Park, but we were granted this seemingly without any hassle. We were walked to the platform at about 4 pm and left there with food, mosquito nets and some cushions. There is a video camera in one corner to keep an eye on you, but I don’t know if it was working or not. You are not allowed to spotlight from the platform as it scares the hell out of the elephants, so if you want to make best use of a Bai night, I suggest you try to time your visit to coincide with a full or fullish moon.
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