The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04 — 2010 2

Editorial | Haukur S Magnússon On Cover: The Reykjavík Grapevine Jón Þór (Jónsi) Birgisson Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík and Nico Muhly www.grapevine.is nd Haukur’s 22 Editorial Cover Photo and [email protected] On what I think about Icesave, Illustration by: Published by Fröken ehf. Lilja Birgisdóttir and www.froken.is Kreppa, Icelandic Bankers, Icelandic Ingibjörg Birgisdóttir Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Association - Businessmen, Icelandic Politicians, www.saf.is THE BLACK REPORT And How It Will Probably Skirt Over Important Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. Issues, Private Armies, Magma Energy, Editorial: Privatisation Of National Resources, +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Iceland’s Rotted And Corrupt System, Advertising: Iceland Being Part Of The Coalition MUSIC +354 540 3605 / [email protected] & Publisher: Of The Willing That Invaded Iraq NIGHT +354 540 3601 / [email protected] Back In 2003, War Crimes In LIFE General, A Borderline Racist And Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Homophobic Society, “Let Them Eat TRACK OF Golf Course” and the Eyjafjallajökull/ THE ISSUE Editor: Fimmvörðuháls Eruption Haukur S Magnússon / [email protected] Download your free copy at Contributing Writers: Well, you see... oh screw it. They’re all grapevine.is Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl pretty disgusting and awful and horrible, Bob Cluness Egill Helgason except for the eruption, which for now Dr. Gunni is super-awesome. Let’s just play some Sindri Eldon backgammon. Your move. Marc Vincenz Bogi Bjarnason James Ashworth Valur Gunnarsson Rachel Aimee Katrin Redfern TRACK OF THE ISSUE Íris Erlingsdóttir a. rawlings Get Albums That Rule For Free Benni Hemm Hemm J. Edward Keyes Also, a luscious tee Arnar Vuþa Retaliate Eyjólfur Eyvindarson

Hey you! Yes, you! Are you reading this on our day of bennihemmhemm Editorial Interns: publication – April 9? Do you like good music? Fancy Download Retaliate Sophia Van Treeck / [email protected] some free stuff? Anna Andersen / [email protected] Alright. Now here’s your chance. The first at www.grapevine.is Stephanie Orford / [email protected] five people that bring copies of this very note to the On-line News Editor Smekkleysa store on Laugavegur (101 Reykjavík, but of Fans of Icelandic music need no introduction to Benni Hemm Paul Nikolov / [email protected] course) will receive the following: Hemm, for he is LEGEND in the local scene. And for good Food Editor: reason – his oeuvre of music is consistently great, his songs Catharine Fulton 1 (one) copy of Jónsi’s excellent new album, Go are catchy and crafty and his persona is top notch. Big up 1 (one) copy of Nico Muhly’s equally excellent album, Mothertongue Benni! However, the good man has been missing from the Art Director: 1 (one) cool new Reykjavík Grapevine t-shirt in whatever size you desire. Reykjavík scene for a while now (and miss him we have), as Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] he went and moved to Edinburgh, Scotland for some reason. Design: Jóhannes Kjartansson / [email protected] Hurry up! Someone’s probably on their way to pick up all that sweet stuff RIGHT NOW! Photographers: Why are you still reading this? Hurry! Benni didn’t quit making great music though, as is amply displayed on his new EP, the turboriffic Retaliate, available Julia Staples / juliastaples.com on 10” vinyl and CD in Iceland, Europe, Japan and the US This excellent giveaway is brought to you by the good people of Smekkleysa and Sales Director: through Kimi Records. He’s singing in English too! Download Bedroom Community, in conjunction with your pals at the Grapevine. Only one item per Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] person. That’s final. Don’t be rude to the clerk at Smekkleysa store. He is awesome. the EP’s title track from our site and hear for yourself! Guðmundur Rúnar Svansson / [email protected] Also, don’t be rude in general. Distribution: [email protected] Proofreader: Jim Rice

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Founders: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Valur Gunnarsson

The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Seyðisfjörður, Borgarnes, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key locations along road #1, and all major tourist attractions and tourist information centres in the country.

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Sour grapes We’ve got a new prize for all your MOST AWESOME LETTERS. And it’s a scorcher! From now on, whoever sends in the issue’s AWESOME LETTER will receive a cool new Reykjavík Grapevine T-shirt, featuring the majestic G that adorns our cover. So you and stuff should make sure to keep writing us fun and/or interesting letters. Natch.

Say your piece, voice your opinion, This new Grapevine tee surely is the shiznit! It was designed send your letters to: by our very own art director man, Hörður Kristbjörnsson, and [email protected] it’s good for posing in front of a mirror, impressing folks with your impeccable taste or picking up men or women of all ages (no minors). DON’T PANIC if your letter wasn’t picked AWESOME LETTER. You can still get a tee for a low, low 4 price over at Havarí on Austurstræti. Letters

Learning Icelandic Bob Cluness didn’t mention in his letter MOST AWESOME LETTER: where he has studied Icelandic and that surely This is Zakarías from Caterpillarmen writing. we released our debut, adopt a monkey, last makes a difference. Friends who took courses year. it sounded bad, but there is more to the story than those three words. at a private school were shocked by the blatant when we got the offer from brak records to distribute it, Baldvin Esra apparently didn't incompetence of some of the teachers, and al- think it sounded well enough. he wanted a third party to remaster it...I suppose in an effort to though I have been generally pleased with my make it "marketable" or "competitive" or whatever. typical loudness wars vomit. Icelandic for Foreign Students studies at the at this time we had spent a lot of time and hard work to make it sound as good as possible. University of Iceland, the program certainly he told me about his plans, and because I didn't tell him, "don't you fucking dare ruin our could be improved. fucking record by paying some jackass to floor a compressor", he went ahead and did exactly There is an unfortunate attitude among that. many foreigners I meet that one learns Icelan- It's all my fault. I didn't have the guts to stand up to mr. label man. dic by being taught it, by sitting in a classroom that is not to say that I have anything against Baldvin, or what's-his-name. it is only to say and listening to teachers. I know people who that they don't know what sounds good. have lived here for years and absolutely refuse we have never earned one króna. I don't know if what's-his-name got paid, but if he did get to buy a dictionary. Who never go to Icelandic paid, even the measliest sum, then he got paid more than we have ever gotten paid to sit down films or plays because “I wouldn’t understand and take a shit on our hard work. ironic? that's the word, right? it.” Who have never read an Icelandic book, anyway, I feel I have made my point. even in translation. Who only attend English- the original masters you can find in my dropbox, http://bit.ly/CATRPLR, the way the re- language church services. Who have lived here cord was supposed to sound. for a long time and have visited fewer cultural institutions – the National Museum, Culture Dear Zakarías or whatever you’re called, House, the art galleries – than the average tour- thank you for your letter. While we don’t know what went between you and your label man ist sees in a few days. Who would rather watch and your compressing agent, we do know that unleashing a work of art to the world is a compli- American television than expose themselves to cated, nerve-wracking and often difficult task. Doubly so if it’s your virgin offering. the many – often free – public events where they Talking about this all after the fact is doubly hard. might learn something about Icelandic society Then giving the results of all your strife away for free on the letters page of a free magazine, and pick up some Icelandic. People who ask, well, that’s pretty amazing. “Where’s that?” when I mention a free concert So you won AWESOME LETTER T-shirt extravaganza. Readers: go check out Caterpillar- at the Ráðhús or Dómkirkja. men’s album, the way they wanted it to sound. Zakarías: never again allow a record you haven’t Icelandic is difficult, but English must be heard to go to print with your name on it. too for someone moving to America from Asia or Africa. One’s attitude to language learning, as with anything else, makes all the difference. your country to be able to join the European its publishing house, Forlagið, over at www. union. To which I say larger is rarely better. I forlagid.is (it’s in Icelandic, but you’ll probably Kristófer Jónatansson hope the independence of Iceland can be a les- find it). The thing is admittedly great, as it was son to the rest of the world.To live within your written by our most excellent former editor Bart Dear Kristófer, means and enjoy life, not to get dragged into the Cameron. It – dare we say – provides some of the thank you for your letter. Your point seems to greed filled societies of most of the world. best insight into Reykjavík living one can find make a lot of sense, what with one's attitude on print. However, it was published four years weighing in heavily when it comes to learning Best wishes from America, ago (that’s like, eight centuries in blog years) stuff and whatnot. However, with a name like A.J.Steen so some of the info might be outta date. REST Kristófer Jónatansson, you just had to know Ice- ASSSURED THAT WE ARE WORKING ON A landic from the get-go, right? Otherwise you’d Dear AJ, NEW ONE. We’ll tell you more about it when we never be able to pronounce your own name and thank you for your sweet letter. It’s cool to hear get around to it. stuff. Right? you enjoyed Independent People, and your Could it be Icelandic is just an insanely su- views and opinions seem pretty spot on. You per-hard language, what with all the consonants sound like a pretty awesome guy. So I’ll ask you While visiting the eruption, if you happen to and rolling pirate arrrrrs and conjugations and to pardon the following outburst – it’s not really drop your keys into the lava flow, don't even stuff? We have no idea, what with being native directed at you. think about retrieving, 'cause man....they're speakers and all. But judging from your foreign You write: “I hope the independence of Ice- gone! friends, this might be the case. land can be a lesson to the rest of the world. To Reykjavík live within your means and enjoy life, not to get CM dragged into the greed filled societies of most of Is Iceland the most irresponsible nation on the world.” Dear CM, Downtown Hostel earth? To which we must reply: HAHAHAHAHA! indeed. Also, remember to bring warm clothes You are like immature children. You tried to HAHAHAHAHAHA! and to pack a heavy lunch, dinner and midnight compete with the big boys and failed. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! snack. And to not get close enough to the lava to Professional, friendly Now pay your debts like adults. HA! drop your keys in it. It’s fucking lava, man. All How dare you try to make the UK out to be the Sorry. You were saying? Oh yeah, that Ice- hot and stuff. Just remember. and passionate. bad guys. land somehow is an example of folks living with- You are the freeloaders of the western world. in their means, enjoying life while not getting Why bother to have a referendum on an orphan dragged into the greed-filled societies of the rest Dear Grapevine, We’ll be here, to arrange the agreement. Do you like wasting money? of the world. HAHAHAHAHAHA! I am just home in the UK after 5 fantastic days most exciting excursions at F HAH! in your amazing country, my first visit. Everywhere we have been we have been the best price, and offer you Thanks again for the letter, sir. Check out Hall- Dear F, dór Laxness’ The Atom Station if you ever have humoured and helped, well informed and im- local advice on how to get thank you for your letter. It was... well. Very curt. the chance. And drop by our office for some pressed by everyone; at our hotel, on organised And fun! In fact, it was so fun that we read it out the most from your stay in champagne and Kobe burgers if you’re ever tours, on public transport and in bars, shops, loud to one another while blowing our Icesave around. museums, galleries and restaurants. this wonderful city. funded overdrafts on fancy new diamond en- In addition to the stunning natural phe- crusted top hats to go with our fancy new dia- nomena and scenery, you also provided wonder- mond encrusted tuxedos [via eBay], which we Hello, ful snowfall for us, which made up for hidden will wear to the opening of the Icesave-funded, I'm one of those folks you like to call an "Ameri- Aurora Borealis! diamond encrusted music and conference cen- can Jackass" who thinks Iceland is fabulous. On our Golden Circle / snow mobile adven- tre, Harpa. Hand me my monocle... I'm jazzing up an Iceland Biking Tour website ture I stupidly left my camera in the snow suit Do y’all mind holding a minute, F? We have for one of your own pillars of the community, provided for the ride. Through your letters page to take a call on our gold plated iPhones. and would like to include some info on your I wish to say a huge Thank You to Cabin Hotel So, yeah. You were saying? What, us? Irre- "Inside Reykjavik" guidebook, if it's still avail- and Mountaineers of Iceland Adventure Tours sponsible? That unpossible! ANYWAY. Could able – like how much it costs and how to order staff for their help and the amazing prompt re- you spare some quid? We feel like taking our it. Also, when was it last updated? Your guide turn of my camera, delivered back to the hotel fancy private jet for a spin, but our platinum keeps getting recommended in the blogs I've for me. It's wonderful to find such help and cards aren’t working for some reason. So just a read, so I think it would be useful (and hilari- honesty. couple thou for some gas money would be great. ous, yet informative) reading for potential visi- On arriving home I asked my taxi driver We’re good for it. Promise. tors to your city. Can you help me? More im- what had been going on in my home town portantly -- if you can ignore the fact that I'm a whilst I was away. His reply; "Bugger all"! USA Jackass -- WILL you help me? By the way, Whatever would visitors to the UK think if Dear citizens of Iceland. you don't have any hard evidence that I, person- that was all the taxi driver had to offer. I listened to a news report on the B.B.C. this ally, am a jackass (You haven't been talking to We have a lot to learn from you and your pride morning on the public outrage in Iceland about my ex-husband, have you?) so give me the ben- in your country. the bailouts for your banks.I was heartened to efit of a doubt, OK? Time to start planning (and saving for) my hear that possibly 75% of your populace will next trip to Iceland, a very special place vote against your governments choice to use Thanks -- I hope. Regards your money to cover the banks mistakes. What great moment for Democracy!! Many here in Cheers, Anne Bird the U.S.A. are likewise outraged. However our Elizabeth Tilley media and government is so tightly controlled, Dear Anne, by the same influences that gambled all the Dear Elizabeth, thank you for your letter. It’s good to hear you money in the first place, that we are not permit- who called you an American jackass? It wasn’t had a nice time over here – we can only BEG ted a final say. We are allowed to grumble only us, anyway. We don’t define jackasses based on YOU to tell all your friends and acquaintances so much until the next big media event takes nationality – only jackassery. Of which you seem about it so we can feast on their sweet, sweet Reykjavík Downtown Hostel our attention away. to have little to spare. At least judging by your money. Anyway, we gotta tell you: you shouldn’t My knowledge of Iceland is admittedly lim- letter. You might have been a jackass to a wait- be so harsh on your local cab drivers. Have you Your dream location in downtown Reykjavík ited. I once read a book "Independent people" ress this morning, who knows (and if you were, any idea how boring that job must be? Vesturgata 17 ❚ 101 Reykjavík ❚ Tel. +354 553 8120 which filled me with admiration for your coun- shame on you! Do you know how hard waiting try. The end of the B.B.C. added a scare about [email protected] tables can be? It’s HELLISH)? how this vote will make it more difficult for In any case, you can still buy the book from Proven once again, Iceland is truly the land of fire and ice! AH90AH90 VolcanoVolcano inin ActionAction ISK The people of Iceland are used to the forces of 8.600 nature, since there have been constant reports Tour AH90 Details €55,- of volcanic activity throughout the history of our Daily Departures beautiful island. Pick up: 17:00 - Departure: 17:30 Duration: 6,5 hours We drive along the south shore to Hvolsvöllur. Included: Bus & English Guidance From there we turn off the main road and head Price: 8.600 ISK - € 55,- to Fljótshlíð, where we stop to view the volcanic Youth: 50% off - Child: Free activity at a safe distance away from the eruption. Our guides give you a good overview of the geol- ogy of the area and about volcanic eruptions.

Picture taken 21 March 2010

Picture taken 3 April 2010 Are you the adventure type? Do you want to wit- ness the forces of nature and see the volcanic eruption up close? From Reykjavik we drive in a Super Jeep to the Mýrdalsjökull glacier and continue over the icecap towards the eruption site. Conditions allowing, we can even get so close that you can almost touch Tour AH91 Details the flowing lava – even though we wouldn’t rec- Daily Departures ommend it!

Pick up: 15:30 - Departure: 16:00 We will be at the eruption site at twilight, giving Duration: 10-12 hours you the best possible view of the eruption site. Included: Super Jeep & English Guidance Price: 28.400 ISK - € 170,- Challenge your senses! Feel the earth shivering, ISK Youth: Full adult fare - Child: 25% off hear the incredible noise, see the streaming lava 28.400 flow and smell the creation of new land. €170,- Minimum 4 pers After the excitement of the eruption we head back AH91AH91 VolcanoVolcano upup CloseClose down from the glacier and back to Reykjavík.

Geysir area Gullfoss AH11AH11 GoldenGolden CircleCircle AfternoonAfternoon This popular excursion introduces you to 8.600 ISK some of the best known historical sites €55,- and natural phenomena in Iceland.

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GRAYLINEGrapevine_9mars#4.indd 1 7.4.2010 12:30:22 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04 — 2010 What's your opinion on the whole strip-ban debacle? Do you think Iceland outlawing the act of striptease will ultimately have a good effect on global human trafficking. Would you consider taking your clothes off for money? Send us a letter. 6

Article | Women Rights Opinion | Bob Cluness I Believe In Jesus. Now Give Me My Free Shit! For many years during my childhood, I was a fully committed Christian. Stop laughing, it’s absolutely true! I attended church very, well, religiously. I read large parts of the Bible, prayed at night and didn’t swear at all. Shit, I didn’t even say the word “sex” as I thought saying it would damn my soul. Yup, religion sure had its theocratic tentacles wrapped around me. Then I turned 14, looked out my window and thought. “This is all bollocks. I can’t do this anymore!” I went to my local church and told them I wouldn’t be coming back. And it hasn’t given me any problems. Well apart from issues with clowns and autoerotic asphyxiation. Why all of this reminiscing about my religious past? Well Easter has just passed, where we celebrated the fact that Jesus apparently suffered a massive health and safety accident by getting himself nailed to a bit of wood. We’re also smack right in the Icelandic confirmation season. Ah yes, that point in an Icelandic child’s life when he or she is sent to church-school to learn about Jesus for the winter, then attend a big service where they sing some tasty hymns and stand up to proclaim their never-ending devotion to the great bearded one in the Is The Stripping Ban A Good Idea? sky. But the fun doesn’t end there. On how Iceland’s middle class activists don’t want the sex industry in their own back yards Afterwards, a lavish party of Caligulean proportions is thrown by the kids’ families. Not only is the saintly sprog The government of Iceland has out- of the only industries in which wom- Progress pointing out that this is their traffickers, who are not likely likely to receive bucketloads of money lawed all businesses that profit off en are able to earn more than men. unlikely to happen within Iceland, to wait around while they pay them from friends and family members, but of the nudity of employees, most no- since it is such a small country that back by doing whatever low paying they’ll also receive hugely expensive gifts, tably strip clubs, leading the Guard- Being taken seriously as a it might actually be possible to moni- jobs exist for undocumented immi- such as golden motorbikes or a unicorn ian’s Julie Bindel to proclaim it “the stripper is an uphill battle tor and control the industry in this grants in Iceland—they will likely weaned on the tears of Björk. All in all, most female-friendly country on In parts of the world where strip- way. Similarly, Jill Filipovic writes on be trafficked to another country to it is a glorious ceremony to celebrate a the planet.” Meanwhile, strippers, pers have united to stand up for their Feministe that the ban is unlikely to work in the sex industry, probably ac- young person’s love for Jesus. sex workers, and sex worker advo- rights, they have generally attempted lead to “an epidemic of underground cumulating more debt in the process. Except, as many people know but cates across the world are wondering to improve working conditions by strip clubs” and that she’s “not sure If these women migrated to Iceland maybe don’t accept, that all of this is where our opinions fit in. Accord- voicing their opposition to labour vio- that strippers will now face the kinds by themselves to work in the sex in- hypocritical bullshit. Most of the children ing to Fríða Rós Valdimarsdóttir, an lations, such as lack of basic wages of immediate dangers that sex work- dustry, they will find a way to migrate involved neither are nor will be regular churchgoers, and most don’t believe in Icelandic specialist working in the and benefits, and illegal fees and ers who sell sexual services negotiate to another country to work in the sex God either. I’m sure many Icelanders field of human trafficking and pros- fines charged by club managers. In every day” in countries where prosti- industry, spending their own hard- will say that this is a long held tradition titution prevention, it is “highly un- no cases have strippers fought to tution is banned. earned cash or getting themselves that brings families together. But the real likely” that the strippers at the centre shut down the strip club industry al- into debt—or possibly debt-bondage message I seem to garner from all of this of the debate were consulted for their together. Fríða Rós Valdimarsdóttir “The middle class situations—in the process. is “lie about something you do not care views on the proposed change in leg- thinks that current attitudes in Ice- It seems that Iceland’s strip club about and get tons of free shit and money islation. land would make it hard for strippers politicians and activists ban is more of a class issue than a for it”. And people wonder how certain “Sex workers seldom take part in to have much success in organising of Iceland don’t want women’s issue. The middle class pol- Icelanders can breezily make statements public debate,” she tells us. “There to improve working conditions. iticians and activists of Iceland don’t on one thing when they believe the exact is no formal spokesperson or union. “Sex work is not considered a real the sex industry in their want the sex industry in their own opposite. It’s because they start when Most likely, this is because most or ‘proper’ job in Icelandic society,” back yards as a daily reminder of gen- they’re young! women working in the sex industry she tells us. “I remember one inter- own back yards as a der inequalities. They do not seem And that’s just something I can’t are forced to live double lives in a viewee telling me about a stripper overly concerned with the livelihoods seem to get my head around. Like many daily reminder of gender other nations, Iceland is moving towards small society like Iceland.” that was trying to find out to which or wellbeing of the immigrant wom- a post-religious society, where religion This seems like a poor excuse for labour union her employer had paid en who work in these clubs. Guðný inequalities. They do not can be freely practiced but the majority failing to take into account the per- the fees he subtracted from her sala- seem overly concerned Gústafsdottir’s proud claim that “the of people, well, can’t be arsed, really. spectives of the population of women ries. Whichever union she rang she ban is one step on the way to elimi- And yet so many people feel compelled who will be most impacted by the was simply laughed at. This indicates with the livelihoods nate sexual violence in Iceland” only or pressured to perform this ceremony ban. that the view in Iceland is that it is makes this clearer. Does she really without asking if it’s really needed in their ridiculous to get the rights and ben- or wellbeing of the believe that the women who will lose lives. Recession stripping efits you deserve as an employee if their jobs as a result of the legislation “But Bob,” I hear you cry, “why the According to Guðný Gústafsdóttir, you work as a stripper.” immigrant women who and likely end up migrating to work grouchiness? Surely if families are dumb spokeswoman of the Feminist As- Being taken seriously as a stripper work in these clubs.” in the sex industry elsewhere will be enough to blow their savings on this, then sociation of Iceland, a survey made is an uphill battle all over the world, any safer from violence as a result, or surely that’s their prerogative?” Well, it on a large group of strip-dancers in and certainly in some cultures more Such a black and white distinction is this legislation really intended to doesn’t take a genius to point out that Iceland showed that “...their accom- than in others. It is perhaps not sur- between strippers and prostitutes, benefit the “good” women who don’t the gradual but never-ending squeeze of the Kreppa means many families are modation was poor and their income prising that Iceland’s strippers don’t however, demonstrates a lack of un- take their clothes off for money? finding it harder to afford these up and in the clubs low. Not to mention the have a formal union or spokesperson, derstanding of the fluid nature of sex It’s no wonder that many sex coming confirmation parties and gifts. long and hard working hours.” considering the increased stigma and work. Many strippers sell sexual ser- workers doubt that the mainstream Ask yourself, fellow Icelander, if burying Perhaps if these dancers had been risks that sex workers, who are also vices beyond just taking their clothes feminist movement has their best in- yourself under mountains of debt to included in the conversation around undocumented immigrants, face in off, whether within strip clubs or out- terests at heart. entertain several family members you the proposed ban, they might have coming out and publicly standing side work, whether with clients they don’t even like while little Unnar gets to pointed out that such conditions ap- up for their rights. However, it is the meet in strip clubs or with clients Rachel Aimee was a co-founder and edi- ride on a combination jet ski/laptop that ply to many types of employment. In responsibility of the feminists who they meet outside work. Banning tor-in-chief of $pread Magazine, a U.S. YOU´VE bought is worth watching him this recession economy, many strip- claim to be speaking on their behalf strip clubs merely limits women’s publication by and for sex workers, from take part in something that at the end pers and other sex workers are strug- to fully consider the potential impact options for where and how they can 2004 to 2008 and worked as a stripper of the day he doesn’t even really care gling and having to work long hours of this legislation on this margin- make money selling sexual services. from 2003 to 2009. about? Something tells me that many to make ends meet, but many choose alised group of women, rather than of you won’t even bother asking this question. to continue working in the sex indus- using their lack of political clout as A class issue Katrin Redfern is a New York City- By all means have a confirmation if try because the pay and conditions an excuse not to seek their input. Whether or not the ban drives strip based freelance reporter, feminist, and you and your children are people of faith. are still preferable to other jobs avail- clubs—or sex work—underground sex worker rights advocate. But personally, when I have children, I’m able to undocumented immigrants A black and white distinction within Iceland, it seems highly un- going to spend my money for something with few formal qualifications, as Debates about the ban have centred likely to stop anyone from working they believe in. Oh and clown self- many of Iceland’s strippers appar- on the issue of whether it will drive in the sex industry. If the women defence lessons. Those bastards are ently are. This is particularly true for the strip club industry underground, working in Iceland’s strip clubs were Rachel Aimee & Katrin Redfern sneaky.... JULIA STAPLES women, since the sex industry is one with Matthew Yglesias at Think trafficked, they have debts to pay to Need to renovate?

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Eymundsson.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04 — 2010 Egill Helgason is a man of many talents, in case you were wondering. Besides running a political talk show on Icelandic State TV, he a also runs a literary programme there. And he blogs a lot for 8 web-site Eyjan.is. Kudos to you, Egill.

Analysis | Egill Helgason, Political and Social Commentator

The population was decimated, possibly a forth of it died in the ensu- ing famine and more than half of the livestock. People who had lost their live- lihood roamed around the countryside begging for food. At this period Iceland was probably the poorest, most desolate country in Europe. The time of Móðu- harðindi is generally considered the lowest point in the nation's history.

Some spectacular eruptions Since then there have not been erup- tions of this magnitude, and in fact very few lives have been lost in volcanic outbreaks in Iceland in recent history. Some eruptions have however been quite spectacular. The eruption of Hekla, Iceland’s more than a year, was as unpopular as found in the sea around Iceland. The most famous volcano, in 1947 lasted the centre/right wing government that present government decided to rent for a year and is in some ways the first presided over the great collapse. Luck out monkfish quotas instead of giving Tourist Eruption Takes Heat Off real media outbreak; pictures of its seemed to have completely abandoned them rent-free to quota owners—who clouds reaching high into the sky were the coalition parties. could then rent them out themselves— Government ingrained on the minds of Icelanders. But then suddenly it returned in as is done with most species in the In 1963, there was an eruption in the the guise of the eruption, which hap- Icelandic waters. Under pressure from Through the foreign media we learned the volcano. sea just south of Iceland, lasting for pened shortly before a long awaited The Federation of Icelandic Fishing that there was an emergency in Iceland. This could happen with a major three years and creating the island of Easter break—after this winter of dis- Vessel Owners (LÍÚ), the Confedera- True, the main airports were closed, eruption of a volcano of the magnitude Surtsey, a paradise for geologists. The content—when people either go travel- tion of Icelandic Employers (SA) an- the inhabitants of a whole region in the of Katla in the south of Iceland. Katla 1973 eruption of the Vestmannaeyjar ling or turn their gaze inwards, to their swered by withdrawing its support for a south of the island had to be evacuated. is due to erupt sooner than later, the Islands was not big, but it posed real families. stability pact between them, the labour The alarmists at Fox News even picked last famous outbreak in the mountain danger as it happened next to a thriving There were also other factors. The movement and the government. up some dubious science and proph- occurred in 1918. But this definitely fishing town with more than five thou- opposition sort of overplayed its hand This gave the government an oppor- esised imminent danger for the whole was not a catastrophe. Indeed Ómar sand inhabitants. when it started calling for the govern- tunity to shine. Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir globe. Ragnarsson, Iceland's most famous It is maybe the finest moment of the ment to resign after the referendum. gave a rousing speech declaring she And, well, the volcanic eruption in reporter of natural phenomena—as Icelandic republic when the inhabit- People more or less thought: The gov- would not cave into the demands of the Fimmvörðuháls, a popular hiking trek well as an environmentalist, pilot and ants of the islands were rescued over- ernment is not good, but they are not quota lobby. It was the best day her re- between the glaciers of Eyjafjallajökull popular entertainer—said that this was night and given shelter in homes on the bunch to tell us so. For there is a gime had had for a long time. and Mýrdalsjökull, dominated the a "small and cute" eruption, "one of the the mainland. The town was eventually general dislike of politics and politi- But then, this is a very vacillating news in Iceland for some days. smallest" of the twenty or so he had wit- saved, through great effort—including cians in the country—and it is not government. So a bit later, when it To the population this came as a re- nessed. using water to cool the lava flow from quite forgotten that the present oppo- came to distributing quotas for mack- lief from the incessant nagging, gloom the volcano—and this is still a shining sition parties, the Independence Party erel, another recent and growing spe- and ill feeling that has increasingly example of national solidarity. and the Progressive Party, created the cies in Icelandic waters—maybe due to characterised local discourse since the conditions for the collapse in 2008, the global warming—the Minister of Fish- economic collapse in October 2008. A tourist eruption saves the govern- privatisation of the banks and the over- eries decided to do almost exactly the The Icesave scandal, on top of the me- ment blown financial markets. opposite, giving almost all the quotas dia agenda for almost a year, was sud- Back to the present outbreak of Eyjafjal- to the ship owners, thereby making the denly quite forgotten—just a few days lajökull, which is now being referred Fish fight government’s policies totally unintelli- after a high profile national referen- to as a "tourist eruption"—good for Another group of people, not exactly gible. dum, closely followed by foreign media, attracting tourists and bringing sorely popular, also went too far, unwillingly This is the case with many matters. that was supposed to be a turning point wanted foreign money into a country helping the government. The government has problems agree- in Iceland's struggle with its creditors. suffering from a total collapse of its One of the main disputes in Iceland ing on anything. The larger party in the However, it was not—and the issue currency, unemployment unheard of is a very long and drawn out struggle coalition, the Social Democrats, might seems to be just as muddled as before. since the 1930s, internal strife and an over fishing quotas. In a country where be said to be quite coherent in its focus But an eruption—that is something unprecedented lack of confidence in fish is the main source of wealth, this is on joining the European Union and you can feel and see, something tangi- a nation that usually has rather high very important. In stages, some twenty collaborating with the International ble and clear-cut, with brilliant images, ideas of itself. years ago, governments decided to lit- Monetary Fund, policies that are not physical danger; opportunities for me- Maybe it would be an overstatement erally give the fishing quotas to ship exactly popular at the moment. But the dia people to shine with violent nature But of course volcanic outbreaks to say that the eruption saved the gov- owners of that period, instead of, for Left Greens are all over the place. They as a backdrop. in Iceland can be deadly serious. The ernment in its moment of greatest per- example, renting out these resources. do have a pragmatic pro IMF faction, No spin, half-baked truths or lies. most famous one is the eruption of il, but it sure took some pressure off it. This created enormous riches in the but the party also encompasses anti- Lakagígar, close to the glacier of Vat- After the Icesave referendum on March hands of a few people. It is now estimat- globalists, people who generally dislike A small and cute eruption najökull, in 1783. This resulted in a 7th, the government was perceived as ed that 70 percent of the fishing rights capitalism—who in some countries are The media in Iceland love their volcanic period of unspeakable hardship, gener- being on its last legs. The government in Icelandic waters are in the hands of termed as the "loony left"—environ- eruptions. And they are very good at re- ally referred to as Móðuharðindin (The leaders, Prime Minister Jóhanna Sig- 70 people who consider the quotas their mentalists, but also a farmer’s faction porting them, as there were numerous Mist Hardships), because of the smog urðardóttir of the Social Democrats private property, even if the law states with strong nationalistic leanings. eruptions in the last 60-70 years, more engulfing the country at the time of the and finance minister Steingrímur J. that the Icelandic nation is the rightful This prompted Prime Minister so than in other periods of Iceland's re- eruption. Scientists now believe that Sigfússon of the Left Greens, had not owner of the fishing stocks. Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir to say in a re- cent history. extreme weather in the northern hemi- bothered to show up for the vote. The This has for a long time been like a cent speech that to work with the Left However there never was a real sphere, both in Europe and America, in bill they had supported—stating how festering sore on the political body, but Greens was like rounding up cats emergency. The alarm was due to over- the aftermath of the eruption was due vast sums of money should be reim- previous governments have been too which, of course, in the present climate zealous members of the National Emer- to fumes spewed out by this volcano. bursed to British and Dutch owners of weak or unwilling to do anything about of suspicion, created a minor crisis gency Centre, who foresaw a scenario A poisonous cloud spread over Europe; savings accounts in the bankrupt Ice- it. The quota owners are also probably within the government. where aircrafts would be engulfed by the emissions of sulphur dioxide are landic Landsbanki—was voted down the fiercest interest group in the coun- clouds of ash coming from the eruption estimated to have been 120 million by an unheard majority of 93 percent. try. The polls showed that their left What happened is that some years Egill Helgason and farms being flooded by melted ice, tonnes, three times the annual Euro- JULIA STAPLES - ILLUSTRATIONS BY LÓA rocks and debris from the area around pean output in recent years. wing government, in place for little ago monkfish increasingly started to be

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.is +354 5553565 Elding Reykjavik Whale Watching Tel. 555 3565 www.elding.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04 — 2010 More info on booking eruption tours with Iceland Rovers and Snow.is at www. icelandrovers.is and www.snow.is - check ‘em out! 10 More eruption pics at www.grapevine.is

News | The Eyjafjallajökull-Fimmvörðuháls Eruption Opinion | Íris Erlingsdóttir

James' Top 5 The Politics Of Icelandic Eruptions Destruction Now that the Icelandic people Amazing as the current eruption have overwhelmingly rejected is, it's still really rather small—at the IceSave bill, we have to least compared to some of the ask ourselves: what have we incredible eruptions Iceland has accomplished? seen throughout its history. On Certainly, the Icelandic negotiators average, an eruption here occurs are in a stronger bargaining position, but about every 3-4 years. Here are my what will that translate into? A percentage point or two on the interest that we will picks for the top five. eventually have to pay to cover the British and Dutch depositors’ losses? Is that what 1. Laki (Grímsvötn), has kept the entire country’s attention for 1783-74 AD months, while more important matters The Laki eruption was a fissure languished? Will that be enough to cover eruption much like the one we the increased interest rates Iceland will have are so fixated with now, except it to pay to acquire funds on international was larger. A lot larger. The Laki capital markets after its sovereign rating is fissure system extended a massive downgraded to junk bond status? Will it pay 27 kilometres, and erupted for 8 for the lost opportunities that will result from months straight, pouring out huge the continuation of currency controls? floods of lava. The large amounts of At best, this will be a wash. At worst, it ash and poisonous gas produced will set back our recovery by months. We had the effect of killing about a all feel better about having stuck it to “The quarter of the Icelandic population, Man,” but I’m honestly not sure who “The mainly due to failing crop and Man” is. Gordon Brown? I’m not on speaking terms with the British Prime Minister, but I’d livestock production. It is also bet this barely registered on his radar. The attributed with helping to start the Landsbanki executives and shareholders? French Revolution, again due to They’re still out enjoying their ill-gotten gains crop failure. in complete freedom. From New Year The reality is that the minority political 2. Eldgjá (Katla), 934 AD parties, especially the Progressive Party, Another huge flood lava eruption, have decided to demolish what’s left of the Eldgjá fissure opened up in Iceland’s international reputation in a To New Mountain 934 AD and produced the largest desperate attempt to garner political points. volcanic canyon in the world— After the election results were announced, about 57 kilometres long, and up Sigmundur Davíð Gunnlaugsson, chairman It is 1 AM. My phone is going crazy. the event in 2009, but volcanology is Pretty small, super exciting to 270 metres deep and 600 metres of the Progressive Party and founder of Emails and Facebook messages are a fickle subject and it’s always impos- In the weeks after the first fissure rip- wide at some points. The effects of the InDefence group that led the petition flying around. Why? A volcano is sible to say for sure what a volcano is ping open, the eruption has remained the Eldgjá eruption are less well- drive to hold the referendum, gloated on erupting, I am a volcanology student, going to do. After a couple of weeks, pretty small, but extremely exciting. known than those of Laki, but there television, pontificating that the referendum and this is the most exciting thing the earthquake swarm died down. It proved the people did not trust the It’s unusual to be able to view an erup- is no doubt that this was a massive since... well, the last time something looked like things might be coming to governing coalition, calling for new elections tion so well, especially an Icelandic event. There is evidence of it erupted. a halt. this spring. fissure eruption. A couple of beautiful having triggered climatic changes Our excitement was excusable, The Progressive Party has no plausible lava falls—basically waterfalls of lava as far away as China, leading to though. Many of us came to study new ideas for rescuing the country from the Eruption! (!)—have formed, cascading down thousands of deaths. in Iceland because of this possibil- Then, on the evening of March 21st, into valleys near the eruption site. A mess that it had a big hand in creating, so ity. We’d all been following the events quite the opposite happened. Volca- second fissure opened up a couple of it has decided to pull the Social Democrats 3. Hekla, 1104 AD and the Left-Greens down to its level. Its beneath Eyjafjallajökull since 2010 nic tremors began—a sort of constant weeks after the first, pouring out even Hekla is infamous as being the plan for a 20% across-the-board reduction began, hoping to see some action. But shaking of the ground—which means more lava. And all of this activity is Icelandic gateway to hell, and of mortgages was laughed off by all what had we been watching, exactly, beginning to form an impressive little that magma is on the move. The earth- perhaps its most destructive serious parties. Its public announcement and what has happened since then? quakes were getting closer to the sur- hill up on Fimmvörðuháls, one that eruption occurred about 900 that Norway was going to give us all the Well, sit yourself down and prepare for face, too. Finally, at about midnight, will soon need a name... years ago. Thankfully, most Hekla money we needed was as surprising to a brief and hopefully somewhat inter- the first report was made of light be- The Grapevine managed to get two eruptions are fairly peaceful (at the Norwegians as it was to the rest of us. esting lesson in volcanology... ing seen coming from the glacier. of us on a snowmobile trip to the vol- least after the first 6 hours or But as the saying goes, if at first you don’t The student communications bomb cano a couple of weeks after it began, so), but this time it produced a succeed... Early tremors began. Information came trickling in courtesy of the kind folks at Iceland very explosive eruption, sending Inflaming the Icelandic public against IceSave was like shooting fish in a barrel. It started around New Year, when throughout the (sleepless) night, but Rovers and Snow.is. Even as some- ash and tephra (small pieces Of course, no one wanted to pay for earthquake activity began to increase come daylight a better picture formed one who studies these things, it was of volcanic rock) high into the the machinations of the incompetent in the area of Eyjafjallajökull, in south- of what was going on. A volcanic fis- incredibly humbling to get so close atmosphere. This then came back ern Iceland. This was particularly ex- sure (basically a crack in the ground) and to bear witness to what is going Landsbanki crew. Finance Minister down on over half of the country. Steingrímur Sigfússon and the rest made the citing since the volcano in question about a kilometre long had opened on up on that ridge—it’s impossible Many houses and villages were hadn’t erupted since 1821-23. GPS sat- up on the ridge between the Eyjafjal- to comprehend until you see it for rational assessment that speedy resolution buried and had to be abandoned. of this matter was essential to the country’s ellite measurements showed that the lajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers, yourself, really. Even if you make the recovery, and that more important matters volcano was actually inflating—pres- fountaining lava a couple of hundred 10+ hour hike to and from the site, it 4. Krafla, 1975-84 AD needed their attention. Antagonizing the sure was building up inside, causing metres into the air and forming spec- is still mind-blowing and absolutely Krafla's most recent eruption was British and the Dutch, delaying the IMF it to bulge outwards. A so-called intru- tacular lava flows. worth the effort (and warm clothing!). much smaller than those above, but aid, and helping Iceland’s international sion event was probably taking place: The initial official reaction was one As for our tour up there: it involved su- makes this list because it was just reputation swirl further down the toilet are magma, molten rock, was pushing up of caution but it soon became clear per jeeps and snowmobiles, was well so damned beautiful. Consisting not likely to benefit the nation in the long into the volcano from below. In early that the eruption was small and not organised and got us exactly where we of nine separate eruptions, this run. February, the groundwater became beneath the glacier, which was frankly wanted to be! was one of the first times that a When all that matters to you is your own acidic due to gases from the magma quite a relief: a jökulhlaup (glacial So what will happen in the future? large fissure eruption could be success, however, why not play with the seeping up through the rock. Despite meltwater flood) would almost cer- Well, no one can really predict how observed, analysed by scientists, feelings, fortunes, and futures of others? Predictably, one upshot of the recent these signs, chances were it would be tainly have been the most dangerous long this will last, but at the time of and filmed by cameramen. Plus it debate—and the media’s habit of presenting just another benign intrusion, which product of such an eruption. writing it seems to be going strong. actually yielded some important only the pro-Iceland side— is that the would never reach the surface—as The weather in the first few days There is certainly the possibility of scientific observations that are still happened here most recently in the hampered attempts to actually see more fissures opening, even beneath majority of Icelanders now feel that they useful to this day and aid in our should not have any liability for any of the summer of 2009. anything, but things soon cleared up Eyjafjallajökull glacier, which could understanding of these complex In early March, earthquake ac- and it became easier to observe what produce a jökulhlaup. It’s also worth debts rung up by others. The Icelandic beasts. taxpayers who repudiated responsibility tivity literally went off the chart: a was going on. Roads and even the hik- keeping an eye on the much larger for the IceSave debt have no qualms about huge 'earthquake swarm’ had begun. ing trail along Fimmvörðuháls (which neighbouring volcano, Katla. The last 5. Heimaey (Vestmannaeyjar), foisting that responsibility onto the British time Eyjafjallajökull erupted, Katla Something unusual was going on. De- the fissure basically cut in two) eventu- 1973 AD and Dutch taxpayers. Icelandic investors bate amongst scientists was hot. This ally opened up, allowing for much bet- followed suit 18 months later. The two Heimaey makes my list because, who bought bank stock after the Danske seemed like something different from ter access, even by the general public. volcanoes appear to be linked some- despite being a small eruption, Bank report predicted a collapse of the how, so an eruption at Katla (which is it has such an amazing story Icelandic banks now denounce the IceSave statistically “overdue,” although this is attached to it. Almost without depositors for gambling for a higher rate a terrible method of volcano forecast- warning a fissure opened above of return. Icelandic armchair pundits who ing) should not be ruled out. the town of Heimaey on January blame this whole mess on the Americans’ failure to regulate mortgage-backed But for now, don't worry. Sit back, 23rd in the middle of the night. securities argue that they should not have relax and enjoy—it’s not often you get Luckily a storm had kept the fishing to pay for the homes they bought when the to see the Earth’s power so beautifully boats in the harbour overnight, and (and accessibly) displayed! Reykjavik real estate market was peaking. so everyone could be evacuated Fortunately, reasonable Icelandic safely. Then many of the island's voters have seen through Sigmundur James Ashworth is currently studying for 4000 or so residents came together a B.Sc in volcanology and Earth sciences Davíð’s shenanigans, and the popularity of to battle the lava flows with cold the Progressive Party continues to slide. at the University of Iceland. water pumped from the sea, saving Unfortunately, like the banks in late 2008, their harbour. Much of the town this leads only to more and more desperate was buried beneath ash, tephra and destructive measures. Sigmundur Davíð and lava but the island quickly got may claim a victory, but what have we, the back on its feet. Icelandic people, won? Any more “victories” like this and we’ll James Ashworth be living in turf huts eating rotten skate Julia Staples before you know it. Science World Experimental nature park at The Nordic House April 9 - September 30, 2010 Come, try, experience! Soap bubbles table | Ice princess | Water blow | Sun radiator | Ball bench | Trembling well | Wave cradle Admittance to the park is free. Registration + 354 551 7030.

FJÖREGG Barnamenning í Norræna húsinu

Welcome

to events and programmes of the Goethe–Institut in Iceland for April and May 2010 Further information: www.goethe.de/island

10. April – Mid June 2010 David Gieselmann: “The Pigeons” in the Reykjavík City Theatre Further information: www.borgarleikhus.is

17.-28. April 2010 German Film Festival for children, teenagers and families at the Reykjavik City Library. Further information: www.borgarbókasafn.is

21.-27. April 2010 Mrin – Children Book Festival Reykjavik. German guest: reading, exhibition and workshop: Wolf Erlbruch. Further information: www.myrin.is

16. May – 20. June 2010 Works of German photographer Friederike von Rauch in The Museum Hafnarborg, Reykjavik Arts Festival 2010. Further information: www.hafnarborg.is

20. May 2010 Opening: Works of the German artists Nikolai von Rosen and Florian Wojnar (Future 7) in The Living Art Museum, the Reykjavik Arts Festival. Further information: www.nylo.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04 — 2010 12 Nico And Jónsi GO ALL IN!

Feature | Interview

what I wanted, really colourful and play- ing sessions themselves. It was like a tor- ful...” nado at times, I brought this printer to the “It’s Nico’s trademark. We met two days later; he came to my studio and every night it was spewing out home with his laptop and was sitting on a million pages of these new crazy things He does a shitload of the floor with a small midi controller. We that we had worked on the night before. did, like, five arrangements in that one How many songs did we record? Fifteen? shit and leaves you with night. I think that’s so crazy! It’s a really More? good example of the way Nico worked with J: Fifteen. a shitload of shit, then us. I like to work kind of fast; I like to build N: And how come there’s only nine on the things quickly, to see progress. It was thus album? you have to dig through exciting get to work with Nico, because J: I don’t know...? I think I kinda wanted he’s so spontaneous and fast. to have it kind of uplifting and spontane- it and find the gold N: I like throwing things out if they don’t ous and... work. I’m all like “Whoa, doesn’t work! On N: None of the slow jams went on the al- nuggets, you know.” to the next one...” bum. N: Yeah, it was weird about Sigur rós. It J: Exactly. I heard about Mr. Nico, that his J: Some of them did... was a band for starters, and totally differ- best quality is to throw stuff away that N: Which slow jams? ent from anything I was listening to. It folks don’t like, without getting all of- J: Like Hengilás and... Tornado was hard to evaluate the composition of fended. His attitude is: “Whatever works, N: Tornado’s a fast jam. the band. What was interesting about it is works. OK, start again from scratch, no J: There are some slow jams on the album. that it evolved into playing more composed problem...” N: It’s a funny thing. While we were mak- pieces later. Like the songs didn’t start N: Throwing music away is so much fun, ing it the album seemed like such an enor- emerging until the last two albums, like it’s as much fun as wasting water. There’s mous, spontaneous beast. What it is now actual short songs. something delicious about it, you can turn is a bullet train of an album. J: Yeah, exactly, that’s kinda true. it on and off, and you can totally admit it J: It’s funny actually, how you go into an N: A lot of stuff, these endless ten minute when it’s not successful. album. I wrote the songs in my apartment long compositions, not quite ambient but on an acoustic guitar, piano, harmonium kind of... Anyway, I knew my Sigur rós, n moving away from igur ós and made these really simple demos that O S R for sure, I did my duty as a young gay col- I slipped to Nico – with a click track – we lege student and went to some show at the J: Starting the album, I wanted to move went to the studio and we saw things build Fillmore or whatever, like in 1999 or some- away from Sigur rós, those floaty, dreamy up quite quickly because of the fabulous thing. I forget. It was like, right before landscapes. That made it kinda fun to arrangements, strings, brass and wind ar- Takk came out in the states, I saw a show work with you, because you had your midi rangements. It was quick – Nico only had with these Icelandic people. It was chaotic. controller and then you just played and like six days to record everything – I think played; “Oh, we have a flute now. What do it worked. On learning from one another you think about this? Eeeh, can we have N: Not to mention the piano parts, which a little bit more this...” [starts singing]. were all hysteria. Complete hysteria. Ha- Nico And Jónsi GO ALL IN! -So alright, you are now acquainted. The That’s how it worked. Super fast, super or- haha! It was hilarious, I got myself all next logical question would be “You spent ganised, no bullshit and he takes it home jeeped up on coffee and just went com- time working and communicating, did you and works on it. I didn’t think this kind pletely nuts with it. I’d give you seventeen ...and Grapevine got to sit in! learn anything from one another?” of music could be that spontaneous, that’s tracks on top of each other and catch the one thing I don’t like about classical music next train to New York. J: In what way? Life in general? You mean and arrangement: it’s too thought about J: It’s Nico’s trademark. He does a shitload It’s nearing midnight on Saturday, March 13, 2010. After a strenuous better in life, like practical stuff? Alex and too worried about. of shit and leaves you with a shitload of Icelandic Music Awards ceremony, the Grapevine feels like going home, [Somers, American visual artist and boy- N: This music wanted to be ecstatic; it shit, then you have to dig through it and watching Back To The Future II and kicking back with some popcorn. friend/collaborator to Jónsi] is always tell- wanted to feel like a magic thing erupting find the gold nuggets, you know. ing me: “You’re so good at life,” meaning Which would be the smart thing to do. from below. So the best way to do all the N: Yes! We made lots of good stuff that practical stuff. I don’t spend time doing arrangements was to at first shit them out way! Also, for me it’s more fun. It’s like if the day-to-day stuff. He always takes a and vomit them out, make it be all messy you’re a houseguest at someone’s house However, Grapevine isn’t very smart. So Grapevine opts for a post-cere- long time to shower, I shower in like five and let there be gut reactions. They’re your and instead of giving them one present, mony beer at Kaffibarinn. Where Grapevine stumbles upon the giggling minutes, then I’m out. When responding songs, and I kept telling you “I see brass you give them a whole kitchen of spices to to e-mails, I just answer yes or no. I try pair of Jón Þór Birgisson – Jónsi of Sigur rós – and composer Nico Muhly. band, a Mexican funeral,” I basically kept serve. and be practical like that, I think Nico is a The two are in high spirits, and we get to talking. throwing these images out... J: Yeah, and they can throw out the things little bit similar. No bullshit. J: I think that’s really good, how we would they don’t like. N: Yeah. As for stuff that I learned, for visualize things. For example on Boy Li- N: Everything, if that’s the case. The “Too bad we can’t do that interview we’ve been talking about,” Nico me – what I always learn when working likoi, we were talking about Saint Francis amount of piccolo on that album...I think blurts out. Grapevine’s heart sinks. “What? That’s our feature for next with sorta non-classical musicians – you of Assisi and how he was preaching to the we really made the album with the most learn to be a good advocate for your ideas issue!?!” birds, all these images and layers and co- piccolo in modern music. I don’t think because those working with you don’t read lours. I really like that, it’s a good way to there’s any more. music. I can’t go around sending people describe how music should be. J: Nico is obsessed with this piccolo part. “I’m leaving for Bandaríkin tomorrow at two. Didn’t you get my e-mail?” scores and asking if they don’t think it's N: Arranging is really about taking the I kind of can’t hear it anymore. I’ve gotten Nico replies. “We could always do it now, though. Are you guys up for genius. Instead I need to invent a vocabu- other person and making them as present- numb to this piccolo thing. Do you have lary to present my ideas. that?” able as you can. It’s as if you’re designing a any questions, Haukur? J: It’s all about sound. dress; it’s not about making the dress look N: Yeah and to be able to envision this good, but the person wearing it. It’s about -Well, I love to hear you two talking together. Jónsi and the Grapevine nod in unison. So off we go, to the only bar in dumm-diddy-dumm diddy, to convey that finding something that is fabulous, that You are so eloquent. Reykjavík one can enjoy conversation on a Sunday morning without and articulate what I’m doing. So much makes you sound fabulous. It shouldn’t getting all shouty and stuff. The super secret, super awesome MSC club- stuff we sent back and forth, that was the call attention to me – as an arranger, you J: Elephant? Elegant? I have this TV blar- big lesson, getting into your head a little house – The Leather Bar. We borrow a bottle of champagne from nearby have to erase yourself in the process. So ing in my eyes, it’s a little bit distracting bit, how you saw music. Boston and get to talking while deep house blurts in the background and spontaneity is the best way to accomplish [points to TV set in the corner, projecting J: Also, what surprised me a lot about Nico this, and images are often the best way to homosexual pornography with regular the fetish cage stands vacant. Mueller... accomplish that. Everything has to go to- cumshot intervals]. N: Möller! gether. That was something I really liked J: That’s such a good last name. Nick- The following is a transcript of what went on that night. about the Sigur rós arrangements, there n getting to know each other O laus Möller. Like Helga Möller. Anyway, was a formality to them. They also just I think the best thing about him is that serve to make your voice sound so fabu- -Well. How did your relationship develop? Enjoy. he comes from the classical world, cuz I lous. What I wanted to do was make it a lit- How did you guys come to know each other? have always been sceptical about classical tle bit naked, to claw a little in your range. You’ve both been in Iceland obviously, had people and music schools and that, all that J: Exactly. I remember the images you you been hanging out and drinking cham- stuff is sooooooo boring. What I have re- Leather Bar, night of the Icelandic Music “Whoa! This is perfect for my music!” It tried to bring to mind: gardens and birds pagne a lot? ally liked about Nico was the spontaneity Awards – 01:30 AM was like this painting, a splash of colours flying around and flowers growing. I of him. That was the most surprising for that goes in and out – not like a constant think it’s really cool to describe music and J: I didn’t know Nico AT ALL. When you me. He came in with his laptop and midi Nico Muhly: So now we’re here in Iceland. carpet over the music. So I was really ex- arrangements like that. came to one of our shows in New York, I and that was exactly how it sounded on the I’m leaving tomorrow, and I’ve been here cited about this collaboration, to get this N: What was fun for me, too, was record- spanked your ass that time... album. These were good times, the two of trying to make sure the live show is good. crazy vibe, this colour and texture all over ing it, because we did it all in one go, in N: ...that’s right. A little spanking. us in my apartment, doing five arrange- Jónsi: There’s a lot of shit going on. We are the songs. sections, and we did this thing where I J: That was our introduction. ments in one night. only five people in the live outfit, trying designed the sections along with this con- N: We got to know each other through this N: That was so much fun! hard to make the album work within our n going apeshit on that bitch tractor violist, Nadia. We could record it shy person thing, where we both sorta sent O J: I know, and that’s how it sounds on the confines. quickly, but no one could believe we could word through other people that maybe we album. Fun! N: Why didn’t you want to tour with a N: I remember, I took it home and was all do it as fast as I said. wanted to do this thing with this certain N: For me as a classical composer, it was mini-orchestra? “I’m just gonna go apeshit on this bitch,” person. so great not to have to put in all that pre- J: I don’t know... I kind of wanted to start so I got all my midi woodwinds all over n spontaneity J: Yeah. O compositional work every time. If some- small, have it all raw and dirty – a stripped it and I sent it to Jónsi. I was so nervous, N: It was all done through like nineteen one commissions me to write a piece, I’ll down version of the album. Because the I thought: “He’s gonna think I’m com- J: Yeah [laughs]! It was like, “That Nico different people. E-mail chains. It was work on it for days, figuring out all the album is so flamboyant and layered – in a pletely crazy.” Now, first of all, midi demos Mueller is sooooo hyperactive. He’s a funny and shy. Hahaha. bullshit and intricacies. Here I got to flow really nice way – I wanted the live show to are always the worst, it sounds like, you workaholic. Everyone is talking about it!” more freely, seeing your reactions as we be kind of different from that. Maybe later know, Legend of Zelda shit. But it seemed It was an intense session. [All laugh]. -This album, it was two years in the making? went along. this year we can do some crazy shit. to work. I hadn’t heard all the arrangements J: That’s how it should be with all music. N: When we first talked about it, I was J: I think it was really good. until we recorded them. Nico was working N: Last January was when we first started N: Yes. But still, one of the things I cher- wondering how to treat these songs, when N: You were so happy. on them at the last minute, and we had to working together. So it was a year and two ish in my life as a classical composer is I first got the demos they were literally one J: I really liked it make all sorts of decisions right before months ago. how you have time to think about things. guitar and his voice, nothing else. N: I remember, I woke up to your e-mail they were recorded. He was always mak- Sometimes, if someone commissions me J: It was as stripped down as possible: one reply, and it was a very happy moment for ing these new things, right up until the -Did you know each other's music before you to write a piece, I’ll love to have a year to acoustic guitar, one mic and a voice, with me. “Good, this is a good start!” deadline. It was intense, but very healthy. worked together? think about it. It comes and goes, in the a click track. J: I think it [Boy Lilikoi] is your best ar- N: One thing I wish, if we had more money scheme of the classical person’s life... like N: I won’t do anything without a click rangement on the album, for some reason for it, is that we could back one more time J: No. Nico knew Sigur rós, probably. when I started working on this opera that track; working without one is a disaster. you were so inspired and it was the first with more musicians and just do... N: Yeah, I knew Sigur rós. I’ve been writing for two years now, and The first song I arranged was Boy Lilikoi. I spark, really full on and crazy. J: No that’s bad. J: I never listen to anybody’s music, I I’ll be writing for another six months... listened to the demo and thought, “I want N: It’s super full on. It’s also about as N: Why? never have a clue about any music at all, J: How does it work? I don’t understand! to try something so outrageous for this, much shit as you can possibly get away J: It’s very healthy, I think, making these so I never heard Nico until Valgeir [Sig- A piece on piano or cello... you obviously and I am just going to completely skeet all with in pop music, ever. fast decisions. It’s healthy in music, and urðsson] gave me Sam Amidon’s album. play piano very well, but how do you think over its face!” J: I sent Nico the acoustic guitar demo in life. I met him at some show and he gave me about the cello part – how do you arrange J: And this is why I wanted Nico to work through the internets. I got the file back N: In everything. Sam and the other Bedroom Community it? As if it’s a vocal line? with me the first place! I had heard one and was all... “Hmmm... this is really full J: Yeah. albums. I’ve not heard all of them yet, but Because for me, I started playing in- album with his arrangements, Sam Ami- on. There’s so much shit happening, it’s N: Some of the best arrangements are re- I heard Sam’s album and was like, “Yeah, struments really early, at age thirteen I don’s album [All Is Well], and I was like, cool and I really like it. It’s perfect, exactly sults of stuff we said and did in the record- this is pop!” started playing the guitar and I decided EXPECT HANG OVERS...

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AD 254x195 WU BRAND landsbanking (ICE) .indd 1 1/06/09 17:47:34 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04 — 2010 14 Nico And Jónsi GO ALL IN!

Feature | Interview

right away to write my own songs, because months after the music’s recorded – and I was so bad at picking up other people’s. even record on top of it – whereas in classi- One of the first things I did was working cal music, you just take the notes and play on playing the guitar while singing, get- them. ting those two entities to work together J: This is very true. in harmony, playing guitar and using N: All the stuff that happened after the my voice to create melodies over them... tracking on your new album was as impor- I understand how that works; you have tant as what happened during the track- a bassline and a melody, I get that, but I ing. You changed songs around, cut them. don’t understand how your mind can work Really, what happens in classical music is itself around all those other instruments that you do all that work beforehand. and how they all come together. J: It’s very true actually. Say a classical mu- sician writes a piece, he doesn’t even think On never thinking about any- about the recording. The recording is just thing at all (and loving on documentation, you record it exactly how each other) it appears on the sheet music, then pub- lish it. Not like us, who recorded strings, N: You are sort of a genius at writing brass and wind separately, we fucked it all things that fit so perfectly with your voice. up afterwards, cut it up and worked it... J: It comes very effortlessly and spontane- ously. How do you work when you have to On leaving space do whole arrangements for an orchestra? Isn’t that too much? It’s over the top, I N: For me, that was my biggest interest think. Do you see, like, a colour palette? coming here and starting to work with Val- N: I like to think: “What is the emotional geir. He said: “Why don’t you just make pull of the number of minutes that I have an album?” and I was like, “Yeah, that’s a to do this in?” Let’s say I have twelve min- good idea.” utes for orchestra. What can happen in So we made an album and it was a revo- twelve minutes? Can we go on a trip? Can lution for me. Just ingraining myself into we walk? Can we tell a story? that kind of work method, getting to think J: This is different from me. I never think about things both before and after. Before about anything at all. that time, I was literally in this weird po- sition where the only documentation of -That’s our headline right there. “I never my music were live recordings of perfor- think about anything at all.” mances from 1998, just cassette tapes that people had recorded and that was it, for- J: I think you should only follow your ever. Valgeir approached me asking if we instinct. Just write a song. Don’t think shouldn’t do it in the studio, so we could about if it’s sad or happy or fast or slow. do stuff to it afterwards. It was a genius, Sorry. I’m just curious about coming from novel idea. the school environment and the classi- J: When you record your classical piece, cal world. You’ve been in Juilliard, you’ve do you write it all down and spell it out in work with people that I could feel comfort- then a year later I read a review there. “Oh studied for ten years, all the formulas and notes, perfectly? The musicians play, Val- able with, and that share some of my at- Sigur rós, it’s really boring. Like Pink “I think people should stuff. How do you think about music? Is it geir records and you change everything titudes. This makes the work a much more Floyd on steroids. Really really boring and in the spontaneous way? around afterwards? pleasant process. too long...”. I went all “uhmm...” with that. be more aware of what N: It’s always an ecstatic process. For me, N: Yeah, everything. J: It was actually really cool. Nico knows a N: I learn a lot from bad reviews. Some- school is just a technique to learn how to J: What do you mean everything? Do you certain group of players that he really pre- times they say the very worst things you’ve they put in their bodies – do certain things. fuck it up? Reverse it? Change the parts fers to work with, folks he loves and knows thought about yourself. J: Exactly! That’s exactly the right way to around? can deliver the job. He ordered them in, J: It can be so unfair, though, that I kin- music or food – it’s your think about it. N: Yeah, but nothing too crude. For both we got some Dunkin Donuts coffee and da don’t like to read them at all. I like to N: The thing you get from school is: you the albums I’ve made with Valgeir, I’ve everyone got pumped recording that stuff. get reviews from friends. Like Alex, my fucking fuel, it’s what don’t learn how to think, you learn how to built in a space for him to do things. I’ll He had the whip on them real tight. boyfriend, he is a hardcore critic, telling sew, how to cut the string, to do the kinda write a piece and leave this huge hole be- N: Working with players you know and me exactly what doesn’t work and why. I keeps you going.” practical stuff. It’s practical and mechani- tween voice and bass for him to pick up trust is important. like getting word from my friends rather cal. You learn and you learn. Some teach- and fill up and have fun with. You can cause Nico came over to help us with our J: It is important if you’re a conductor, con- than some asshole reporter who’s really ers at school will teach you how to focus combine things in a way you wouldn’t if rehearsals and help the piano player learn ducting a group of people. Everyone likes grumpy that day and hates everything. your ideas, for instance. The biggest ques- you thought too hard in advance. I think his parts. Usually – I’m sorry, I might be to be controlled, people like that, and you You know? tion for me has always been, always, what- this is slowly changing for composers, talking BS out of my ass here – but usually are a controller. You manage to control N: I’ve never really gotten terrible reviews. ever I’m doing: is this, this thing I’m work- Daníel Bjarnason’s album is a good ex- in the classical world everything is written them and be funny and pleasant at the I get a lot of nasty reviews and internet ing on, is it preferable to silence? ample of something that’s thought out and down and you really just have to rehearse same time you are being controlling and comments, though, but it’s never some- If someone tells me to write twelve written out perfectly, while still adhering it again and again until it gets flowing. getting things done, that quality you have thing I haven’t thought about myself. But minutes for orchestra, whatever I make to the tenets of post-production in a way. With a band of five people, you can’t re- is really awesome. that’s just a kind of gay self-loathing. The had better to be so great that it deserves J: Indeed, the good thing about Nico’s ar- ally do that. You don’t know where exactly N: It helps when you know the people. You worst stuff that’s been said has never been to exist. If people could spend twelve min- rangements on my album is the space he you’re headed, but you know you want it can say something curt and really awful, outside of what I’ve thought of myself, utes sitting around in their house and have left. He didn’t cover the whole songs in to be really good. You need a space to play just lay it on and it's OK. which I like. There’s a certain consistency a better time, then I’ll cut it. You know, a flourish. around in, time to noodle and tweedle J: I know. You managed to loosen up ev- to it. lot of music is not preferable to silence. N: And you know, my attitude was always and be really lazy, just doing this and that. erything while being firm on the whip the J: I also have this debate with classi- to turn it up, turn it down, fade in, fade N: Right, which I don’t really know about. whole time. On sharing similar attitudes cal composers and people in the classi- out, I always try and provide ingredients J: So that work was maybe difficult, but N: For me it’s awful being in conduction. and rehearsing a band of five cal world, about their kind of music and rather than answers. Occasionally I would also cool. It’s like our major difference is Being a young conductor is so awful... for people how it seems formulaic to me. They’re say things like, “you should do this or that that Nico comes from the classical world your album, it wasn’t so scary, but say I’m so learned and schooled, they kinda fall or double this,” but there was no ego as- and I... don’t. conducting a film score... -Do you think you share similar attitudes to into this rut of classical composing... sociated with my notes. You were free to N: I believe in notation, and I believe in J: How is that? music? Do you imagine you experience and You, however, seem different. You are so disregard them if you wanted. parts. N: It’s fine. Girl, it’s fiiiine. Everyone convey it in comparable ways? young. And you like to work with differ- J: That’s probably Nico’s best quality, his J: ...and I believe in everything being prac- gives you these stern looks, as if you have J: I think definitely ent kinds of music. It seems so generous lack of ego. Nothing in how he works indi- tical and fast! to prove yourself. In England, especially, N: I would say definitely, yes. to me, so wide, so broad... cates a huge ego. Ha! Ego Mueller! you can really struggle. ‘Cause England is J: I was really happy when I worked with N: For me, music has to always be an ec- N: It was funny. With some of the things, On Björk, and not being an England. Nico for the first time, when we met in static process. It just has to be. I thought: “If they cut it, I will be sad.” asshole J: They want an old geezer, a big formal my apartment. We sat on the floors, with J: Why do you work so well in all the Lucky for me, none of those bits got cut! guy? a pillow, and I just was enthralled by the genres? Most people stick to pure classical J: Playing in a band is the only thing I’ve N: Yeah. And if you’re not some old geezer, spontaneity of it all, the no bullshit ap- or pure avant-garde. n ting and yoga and money done in my life, ever, and we need this O S they want for you to, like, totally dominate proach. I always thought classical people N: I think if your attitude is right, you can time to be stupid, to play around, be silly, them with your brilliance. English people had to be boring. Too learned, too thought do anything. It’s like travel. How can you J: He’d be in the studio, sitting with the hang out and noodle... are such a bottom, it’s crazy. What they out or whatever. It was so refreshing to be have a life in Iceland and New York and engineer going “oh yeah, turn up the N: ...and I was all like, “are we done yet?” want is for you to go in there with fire- exposed to Nico and how he wrote five ar- London or wherever. If you think about flutes on this baby!” I was like “What J: Nico on the clock: “WHAT THE FUCK works and shoot lasers from your fingers rangements in one night. genres as different countries, it gets easier the fuck!? Hopefully he’s not going to be ARE YOU DOING?” and be like “Girl, you get on the floor and N: It was such a good night. A good ex- to travel. Everyone still has to pee, they around when we mix this thing...” N: That was good for me to witness, the you PLAY that cello!” and you just sort of... ample is the song that’s now called Sink- have foods and menus and rituals of say- N: I wanted to make sure everything I gave noodling. Hahaha. I sorta had to lash my tongue out ing Friendships and that whole bubbling ing hi. I always think about genres as non- you was perfect, so when you wanted to J: I think it’s healthy. And it’s also healthy at them in to get things moving. I’m look- ecstasy that’s in there. How fun it was, just existent, really. For me, the whole musical start fucking with it, it couldn’t hurt. One for me. I should speak up sometimes, I ing forward to being over thirty. the two of us on the piano playing it. You spectrum is one big Schengen area. of the things that freaks me out about pop feel. taught me the chords and I immediately J: I love that. It’s so fucking true. music is that sometimes the quality of the N: It’s also interesting because a band is On negative reviews latched on [starts mimicking a very, very N: Thinking about genres is like asking recordings is not good and sometimes a diplomatic project whereas this thing is fast piano player]. someone... pretend your mom is from In- the playing is bad. The worst thing is the your shit – your actual name’s on the proj- -I only ever read bad reviews about you, Nico, J: Did you learn anything from me? Or dia and your dad is from Iceland or wher- strings. Synth strings. ect. on your own website. And often the articles like anything that happened? ever, and you move to New York and you’re J: Sting uses synth strings. What the fuck J: I know, and I always forget that. I don’t will be all upset with how young you are.... N: Yeah, definitely. First of all the songs just a young family trying to make work is up with that? want to be the asshole that orders people themselves were fabulous, but I also love and you make dinner, you have kids, and N: Indeed. He has so much money. what to do. I don’t want to be that asshole, N: I only ever put up my bad ones. I get in your whole attitude. You have good atti- whenever people come over they talk about J: Sting is full of money and yoga and he so I wind up not speaking up. I’m afraid I so much trouble with the classical press. tude about figure things out, and which it being fusion-y. “Ohh... this is like India doesn’t use real strings? It’s weird. might have to start to speak up more. We’re fucked no matter what we do. But order they need to be figured out in. You meets Iceland” and you’re all like “No, it’s N: It’s a big issue, string samples. A lot N: In a situation like this, it’s where I’ve press stuff is so secondary. know when you should work on certain just what we like making for the kids.” of pop arrangements now are made for always felt the model for the solo artist J: I learned very early on not to read any- things, which is a quality I love. “Let’s deal It’s a natural process for me, even samplers rather than actual players. This should be that she really gets what she thing about your work. Nico is probably with that bridge later...” You know what when I’m thinking on a piece and plan- makes a boring, poorly sounding record- wants. That there should be nothing hap- still reading his reviews... I never read your strengths are, not just in general but ning in advance, I stop short of deciding ing and all the violists are unemployed. In pening on that stage that she does not like. anything. I never go to my own website or also at the moment. upon the actual genre of it or whatnot. any case, I wanted to make sure everything A good example of this is Björk. anything. I have to live in the old bubble. Then this last week of rehearsing the J: That’s really important. I gave you was in tiptop condition. J: It’s amazing that through doing this band was kinda weird, dealing with differ- N: To be fair, there’s something fun to be J: Actually, the demos sounded really project, I developed this crazy respect for -What was the last review you read? ent perceptions of how things should be gained from it all. Planning some things good. Björk for the first time. done. out. One of the thrills of pop music – even N: The recordings did too. I was aggres- N: Going solo is hard. It’s so much differ- J: The last one I read was probably ten J: That was kind of hard... though the creation is spontaneous – is sive about hiring expensive players for this ent from being in a band. You’re not just years ago. NME had been really loving N: It was fine. I was there to be an asshole. that there’s a lot of work that happens af- project, hahaha! the singer anymore, you’re the artist. on Sigur rós. And they really love to hype J: I don’t know if you were being an ass- terwards. Post-production, as you know. J: I KNOW THAT! [glares at Nico] J: It’s so fucking hard. bands to death before turning on them hole. But you were a foreign element to the So in pop music, you guys have an army of N: As you may or may not have sensed N: And her ass has been at it for 35 years, and crushing them. When we first came proceedings, and you had to keep things people that think about all those things for from me, I thought it really important to getting the best ingredients from everyone out in the UK they really loved on us, and going and working. It was interesting be- Music, Art, Films and Events Listings + Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland. Issue 4 - 2010 www.grapevine.is

10 2 Apr. May. Light bright Hekla Dögg Jónsdóttir Art Exhibition

Kling & Bang Gallery Kling & Bang gallery has managed to capture some fireworks in their studio. Come see before they fade away! Past installations by multimedia artist Hekla Dögg Jónsdóttir have been visually thrilling—sculptures of multi-coloured, sound-reacting cathode rays exploding into the gallery space, with backdrop video projection. Visit the gallery to see what the bright spark of an artist does this time. SO MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE IN APRIL

Prescribing with love 17:00 A German Requiem by Jo- ISK. hannes Brahms. Kaffibarinn music for your live Kaffi Zimsen 21:00 Alfons X. 22:00 Movie Night. Óliver experience Prikið 22:00 Live Music. 22:00 Hangover Cinema presents Prikið How to use the listings Howard the Duck. 22:00 Hip Hop night. Venues are listed alphabetically by day. Salurinn For complete listings and detailed 12 20:30 Ingó and Jóhanna Guðrún. information on venues visit MON Sódóma www.grapevine.is 21:00 Coral, Mikado, Two Tickets Bakkus to Japan. 21:00 Movie Night. Thorvaldsen 9 Café Rósenberg 22:00 Mojito night. Mojitos for 1000 FRI 21:00 Selma Björnsdóttir & Co. ISK. Dubliner B5 22:30 Live Music. 16 22:00 Live DJs. English Pub FRI Bar 11 22:00 Live Music. 0:00 Matti. Kaffi Zimsen B5 Celtic Cross 21:00 Best Friends Day. 2 for 1 beer. 01:00 Live Music. 22:00 Live DJs. Prikið Bakkus Culture House 21:00 Wine and Cheese Night: 2 22:00 DJ Unnur Andrea. 17:00 The Chamber Choir of glasses and cheese for 1,000 ISK, Bar 11 Southern Iceland. DJ J-Man. 0:00 Biggi Maus. Cultura Café Rósenberg 22:00 House DJs. 13 22:00 Langi Seli & Skuggarnir. Dubliner TUE Celtic Cross 22:30 Live Music. 01:00 Live Music. English Pub Café Rósenberg Cultura 22:00 Live Music. 21:00 Live Music. Hallgrímskirkja 22:00 House DJs. 12:00 Chamber choir. Dubliner Dubliner Hemmi & Valdi 22:30 Live Music. 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Local DJs. English Pub English Pub Hressó 22:00 Live Music. 22:00 Live Music. 22:00 Jogvan & Vignir, DJ Bjarni. Óliver Hemmi & Valdi Jacobsen 22:00 Live Karaoke with Raggi 22:00 Local DJs. 22:00 DJ Frigore. Troubadour. Hressó Kaffi Zimsen Prikið 22:00 Silfur, DJ Fannar. 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. 22:00 DJ Gauti. Kaffi Zimsen Kaffibarinn 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. 23:45 Alfons X. 14 Kaffibarinn Langholtskirkja WED 23:45 FKNHNDSM DJs. 19:30 The Icelandic Symphony NASA Orchestra: Jón Nordal. Bakkus 23:30 FM Belfast & Retro Stefson. NASA 21:00 DJ Laufey. 23:00 Localice Live: Sign, Cliff Cal- Óliver vin, For A Minor Reflection, Noise, Café Rósenberg 22:00 Ladies’ Night. Ten Steps Away, Nevolution. 21:00 Live Music. Prikið Óliver Dubliner 22:00 Franz & Jenny, DJ Addi 22:00 Ladies’ Night. 22:30 Live Music. Intro. Prikið English Pub Sódóma 22:00 Jenni & Franz, DJ Danni 22:00 Live Music. 22:00 Móri, Messias MC & Deluxxe. Óliver guests. Salurinn 20:00 Pub Quiz. Thorvaldsen 20:00 Sounds from Mexico - Guitar Prikið 22:00 Live DJs. concert. 22:00 DJ Hot Sauce. Sódóma Sódóma 17 22:00 Sólstafir, Sororicide, In 21:00 Valdimar & Guests. SAT Memoriam, Bastard. Thorvaldsen B5 22:00 Live DJs. 15 22:00 Live DJs. THU Bakkus 10 21:00 DJ Árni Sveins. SAT Bakkus Bar 11 21:00 Two Step Horror. 0:00 Matti. B5 B5 Café Rósenberg 22:00 Live DJs. 22:00 Langi Seli & Skuggarnir. Bakkus 22:00 Live Music. Bar 11 Celtic Cross 22:00 Della Rósa. 01:00 Live Music. Bar 11 21:00 Kreppa Night. Beer for 450 0:00 Biggi Maus. ISK. Cultura Café Rósenberg Café Rósenberg 22:00 House DJs. 22:00 Hjaltalín. 21:00 Live Music. Dubliner Celtic Cross Cultura 22:30 Live Music. 01:00 Live Music. 22:00 House DJs. English Pub Cultura Dubliner 22:00 Live Music. 22:00 House DJs. 22:30 Live Music. Háskólabíó Dubliner English Pub 14:00 The Icelandic Symphony 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Live music. Orchestra: Maximús trips to music English Pub Hressó school I. 22:00 Live Music. 22:00 Troubadours Böddi and 17:00 The Icelandic Symphony Hallgrímskirkja Davíð. Orchestra: Maximús trips to music 17:00 A German Requiem by Jo- Kaffi Zimsen school II. hannes Brahms. 22:00 Ólafsvaka night. Beer for 490 Havarí 16:00 Stafrænn Hákon Hemmi & Valdi 22:00 Local DJs. Music & Entertainment | Venue finder Hressó 22:00 Napóleon, DJ Bjarni. Amsterdam Dillon NASA Kaffi Zimsen Hafnarstræti 5 | D2 Laugavegur 30 | F5 Þorvaldsenstræti 2 | E3 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. Apótek Dubliner Nýlenduvöruverzlun Hemma Kaffibarinn Austurstræti 16 | E3 Hafnarstræti 4 | D3 & Valda 23:45 Terrordisco, Oddur Snær & Austur English Pub Laugavegur 21 | E4 DBF. Austurstræti 7 | E3 Austurstræti 12 | D2 Næsti Bar NASA B5 Glaumbar Ingólfstræti 1A | E3 22:00 I ATG RVK vs. Techno.is. Bankastræti 5 | E3 Tryggvagata 20 | D2 Óliver Óliver Babalú Grand Rokk Laugavegur 20A | F5 22:00 Local DJs. Skólavörðustígur 22 | G5 Smiðjustígur | E5 Ölstofan Salurinn Batterí Highlander Vegamótastígur | E4 17:00 Martial Nardeau & Désiré Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D2 Lækjargata 10 | E3 Prikið N'Kaoua. Bar 11 Hressó Bankastræti | E3 Sódóma Laugavegur 11 | E4 Austurstræti 20 | E3 Rósenberg 22:00 Mínus & Guests. Barbara Hverfisbarinn Klapparstígur 25 | E4 Thorvaldsen Laugavegur 22 | F6 Hverfisgata 20 | E4 Sódóma Reykjavík 22:00 Live DJs. Bjarni Fel Jacobsen Tryggvagata 22 | D3 Austurstræti 20 | E3 Austurstræti 9 | E3 Sólon 11 Boston Kaffi Hljómalind Bankastræti 7A | E3 SUN Laugavegur 28b | F5 Laugavegur 23 | E4 Thorvaldsen Café Cultura Kaffi Zimsen Austurstræti 8 | D2 Dubliner Hverfisgata 18 | E4 Hafnarstræti 18 | D3 Vegamót 22:30 Live Music. Vegamótastígur 4 | E4 English Pub Café Paris Kaffibarinn Austurstræti 14 | E3 Bergstraðastræti 1 | E4 Venue 22:00 Live Music. Tryggvagata 22 | D3 Gerðuberg Balthazar Karamba 14:00 Let's sing and chant... Hafnarstræti 1-3| D2 Laugavegur 22 | F4 Celtic Cross London/Reykjavík Hallgrímskirkja Hverfisgata 26 | E4 Tryggvagata 22 | D2 Havarí 25 16:00 Sóley 22 SUN Hemmi & Valdi THU 22:00 Local DJs. Café Rósenberg B5 Hressó 22:00 Dægurflugurnar. 22:00 Live Music. 22:00 Dalton, DJ Fannar. Dubliner Bar 11 22:30 Live Music. Kaffibarinn 21:00 Kreppa Night. Beer for 450 ISK. 23:45 DJ B-Ruff & Gísli Galdur. English Pub Bakkus 22:00 Live Music. Kaffi Zimsen 21:00 DJ Músikölski. Prikið 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. Bar 11 Óliver 22:00 Hangover Cinema presents 22:00 Local DJs. 21:00 Kreppa Night. Beer for 450 ISK. Clueless. Prikið Café Rósenberg 22:00 DJ Danni Deluxxe. 21:00 Go Go Jógo. 26 Salurinn Cultura MON 13:00 Modern and catchy. 22:00 House DJs. 17:00 Ari Þór Vilhjálmsson & Dubliner Bakkus Sigurgeir Agnarsson. 22:30 Live Music. 21:00 Movie Night, Sigtryggur's Sódóma English Pub Selection. Café Rósenberg 22:00 Rökkurró, Nolo, Tristran. 22:00 Live Music. 22:00 Dægurflugurnar. Thorvaldsen Hressó Dubliner 22:00 Live DJs. 22:00 Troubadours Jogvan & Vignir. 22:30 Live Music. 18 Kaffibarinn English Pub SUN 22:00 Gísli Galdur. 22:00 Live Music. Kaffi Zimsen Kaffi Zimsen Café Rósenberg 22:00 Ólafsvaka night. Beer for 490 21:00 Best Friends Day. 2 for 1 beer. 21:00 Soffia Karls. ISK. Prikið Dubliner Óliver 21:00 Wine and Cheese Night: 2 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Live Music. glasses and cheese for 1,000 ISK, English Pub Prikið DJ Glam. 22:00 Live Music. 22:00 DJ Moonshine. Gerðuberg Salurinn 27 14:00 Folk music from around the 21:00 Men's Choir Fjallabræður. TUE world. Sódóma Café Rósenberg Kaffi Zimsen 21:00 Endless Dark & Guests. 22:00 Live Music. 22:00 Movie Night. Thorvaldsen Dubliner Prikið 22:00 Mojito Night. Mojitos for 1000 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Hangover Cinema presents So ISK. English Pub I married an axe murderer. 22:00 Live Music. 23 Óliver 19 FRI 22:00 Live Karaoke with Raggi MON Troubadour. B5 Prikið Bakkus 22:00 Live DJs. 21:00 Movie Night: Rafskinna - En- Bakkus 22:00 DJ Gauti. nimánaskin 6. 22:00 DJ KGB. Café Rósenberg Bar 11 28 21:00 Hjálmar. 0:00 Ómar X. WED Dubliner Café Rósenberg 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Varsjárbandalagið. Bakkus English Pub Celtic Cross 21:00 DJ Silla. Café Rósenberg 22:00 Live Music. 01:00 Live Music. 22:00 Villi Naglbitur. Kaffi Zimsen Cultura Dubliner 21:00 Best Friends Day. 2 for 1 beer. 22:00 House DJs. Prikið Dubliner 22:30 Live Music. 21:00 Wine and Cheese Night: 2 22:30 Live Music. English Pub glasses and cheese for 1,000 ISK, English Pub 22:00 Live Music. DJ Shake it. 22:00 Live Music. Óliver Havarí 20:00 Pub Quiz. 20 16:00 Haraldur Jónsson book Prikið TUE release, live music by TSOYL. 22:00 DJ Aggi. Hemmi & Valdi Café Rósenberg 22:00 Local DJs. 29 21:00 Live Music. Hressó THU Dubliner 22:00 Magni, DJ Elli. 22:30 Live Music. Kaffibarinn B5 English Pub 23:45 Alfons X. 22:00 Live Music. 22:00 Live Music. Kaffi Zimsen Bakkus Óliver 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. 21:00 DJ Einar Sonic. 22:00 Live Karaoke with Raggi Langholtskirkja Bar 11 Troubadour. 19:30 The Icelandic Symphony 21:00 Kreppa Night. Beer for 450 ISK. Prikið Orchestra: The Four Seasons. Café Rósenberg 22:00 DJ Gauti. Óliver 21:00 Bluesband Danni Pollock. 22:00 Ladies’ Night. Cultura Prikið 22:00 House DJs. 21 WED 22:00 Franz & Jenni. Dubliner Sódóma 22:30 Live Music. Bakkus 22:00 Bloodgroup, Ultra Mega English Pub 22:00 DJ Ugly. Technobandið Stefán, Berndsen. 22:00 Live Music. Café Rósenberg Thorvaldsen Háskólabíó 21:00 Gímaldin. 22:00 Live DJs. 19:30 The Icelandic Symphony Dubliner Orchestra: Master Martin. 22:30 Live Music. 24 Hressó English Pub SAT 22:00 Troubadours Böddi and 22:00 Live Music. Davíð. Kaffibarinn B5 Kaffibarinn 21:00 Hunk of a Man. 22:00 Live DJs. 22:00 Alfons X. NASA Bakkus Kaffi Zimsen 23:59 Judge Jules, Frigore, Sindri 22:00 DJ Öfull. 22:00 Ólafsvaka night. Beer for 490 BM, Ghozt, EXOS. Bar 11 ISK. Óliver 0:00 Biggi Maus. Óliver 20:00 Pub Quiz. Café Rósenberg 22:00 Live Music. Prikið 22:00 Túpílakar. Prikið 22:00 DJ Árni Kocoon. Celtic Cross 22:00 Diddi Fel, MC Gauti. 01:00 Live Music. Sódóma Cultura 22:00 Woodpigeon, Pascal Pinon, 22:00 House DJs. Mukkaló. Dubliner 22:30 Live Music. English Pub 30 FRI 22:00 Live Music. Havarí B5 15:00 Suska Puma Moeritze book 22:00 Live DJs. release with live music by Quadrup- Bakkus los. 22:00 DJ Kári. Hemmi & Valdi Bar 11 22:00 Local DJs. 0:00 Matti. Hressó Café Rósenberg 22:00 Penta, DJ Elli. 22:00 Live Music. Kaffibarinn Celtic Cross 22:00 DJ Kári. 01:00 Live Music. Kaffi Zimsen Cultura 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. 22:00 House DJs. Langholtskirkja Dubliner 19:30 The Icelandic Symphony 22:30 Live Music. Orchestra: The Four Seasons. English Pub Óliver 22:00 Live Music. 22:00 Local DJs. Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Prikið 12:15 Lunchtime Classics - Arias 22:00 DJ Benni B-Ruff. and Russian folk songs. Sódóma Hemmi & Valdi 22:00 Hoffman, Momentum & 22:00 Local DJs. Guests. Hressó Thorvaldsen 22:00 Skósólarnir, DJ Fannar. 22:00 Live DJs. BEWARE: MUSIC Icelandic Nature

Remember at all times: Iceland’s CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE IN APRIL nature is not to be taken lightly. Weather conditions can quickly and unexpectedly turn around, Kaffibarinn Celtic Cross without a moment’s notice. 23:45 DJ KGB. 01:00 Live Music. Kaffi Zimsen Dubliner It is imperative that people take all 22:00 DJs Nino and Dramatík. 22:30 Live Music. the necessary precautions before Óliver English Pub going to check out volcanoes, 22:00 Ladies’ Night. 22:00 Live Music. for instance. We recommend Prikið Háskólabíó organised tours, but if you must 22:00 Jenni & Franz, 19:30 The Icelandic Symphony DJ Addi Intro. Orchestra: Schumann & Brahms II. go it alone: Wear long underwear, Sódóma Hressó windproof pants, a windproof 22:00 Fræbblarnir & Guests. 22:00 Troubadours Jogvan & jacket, a warm hat and gloves, and Thorvaldsen Vignir. waterproof hiking boots. Bring 22:00 Live DJs. Kaffi Zimsen more than enough food and water 21:00 Best Friends Day. 2 for 1 beer. with you, even if you are simply 1 Óliver driving there and back. Lastly, be SAT 22:00 Live Music. Salurinn sure to let someone know when B5 21:00 The little fly. you are leaving and when you plan 22:00 Live DJs. Sódóma to return. 21:00 Blúsakademían. Bakkus 22:00 Live DJ. Bar 11 0:00 Biggi Maus. Café Rósenberg 22:00 Live Music. Celtic Cross 16 01:00 Live Music. Apr. Cultura 22:00 House DJs. Dubliner 22:30 Live Music. English Pub 22:00 Live Music. Hemmi & Valdi 22:00 Local DJs. Hressó 22:00 Sturla, DJ Fannar. Kaffibarinn 22:00 Már & Nielsen. Óliver 22:00 Local DJs.. Salurinn 17:00 The Ísafold Quartet. Sódóma 21:00 Duplex #7. Thorvaldsen 22:00 Live DJs. 2 SUN Café Rósenberg 22:00 Uppistand. Dubliner 22:30 Live Music. English Pub 22:00 Live Music. Gerðuberg Cultural Centre 13:15 Lunchtime Classics - Arias Magic Thursdays and Russian folk songs. Underwear And Popcorn Prikið For concert information see music listings on this spread 22:00 Hangover Cinema. FM Belfast & Retro Stefson or visit us at www.sinfonia.is Thorvaldsen 22:00 Live DJs. NASA 23:30 3 Stop running down the streets in your underwear 'cause nothing happens! Take it off MON instead and throw it to the stage! FM Belfast are coming to NASA! One of Iceland's most celebrated electro bands is ready to electrocute y’all out there once again, after Bakkus a successful jaunt across Europe. They are joined by Retro Stefson, the band that 21:00 Movie Night. claims to be “the ‘pop’ in your popcorn and the ‘smooth’ in your smoothie.” Café Rósenberg 22:00 Blúsfélagið. Both bands have been doing some heavy recording in the last weeks, so in case Dubliner 22:30 Live Music. you're already bored of their last releases, you’ll be sure to hear some fresh stuff. English Pub And by the way, the last time, FM Belfast and Retro Stefson performed at NASA, the 22:00 Live Music. concert was sold out, so make sure to get a ticket soon. Or do you want to keep on Prikið running down the streets in your underwear 'cause nothing ever happens here? We 21:00 Wine and Cheese Night: 2 think not. SVT / Photo by Jói Kjartans glasses and cheese for 1,000 ISK. 4 TUE Café Rósenberg Tickets » 545 2500 » www.sinfonia.is » Concerts take place in Háskólabíó. 22 22:00 Matti Sax Big Band. Apr. Dubliner 22:30 Live Music. English Pub 22:00 Live Music. Óliver 22:00 Live Karaoke with Raggi troubadour. Salurinn 20:00 Ingólfur and Lluisa Es pigolé. JAKOB JAKOBSSON 5 WED Gengið að verki Café Rósenberg 22:00 Murra & Elín Eyþórs. At Work Dubliner 22:30 Live Music. English Pub 22:00 Live Music. The Prikið Summer Jam Óliver 23 January – 9 May 2010 20:00 Pub Quiz. Prikið 6 In celebration of the first day of summer – kind of a big deal in Iceland – Prikið THU is barbequing ribs and holding a slam-dunk contest on their outdoor patio. If shooting hoops is not your thing, there will be no shortage of entertainment, with DJ B5 Moonshine and his friends on duty to get the crowd dancing. And by the way, Prikið 22:00 Live Music. Bar 11 is Reykjavík’s oldest coffeehouse, dating back to 1951, which might explain its quaint GRÓFARHÚS 6th floor · Tryggvagata 15 · 101 Reykjavík · www.photomuseum.is 21:00 Kreppa Night. Beer for 450 ISK. red exterior and that rooster sitting above the door (Prikið means: “The stick”- Opening hours 12–19 mon–fri, 13–17 weekends · ADMISSION FREE Café Rósenberg everyone knows roosters love hanging out on sticks). AA 21:00 Gunni Þórðar. 30 9 Free pick up at Hotels Apr. Apr. Tel: 551 7000

From 9.900/day Free GPS if you bring this ad

LEATHER PANTS MADNESS! Localice Live NASA 20:00 Tonight is a night for whisky and leather www.procar.is | Fiskislóð 45 | 101 Reykjavík pants (unless you read this after our date of publication, which means you steamed your leather pants for Who's Got The Stamina? nothing). Production company Localice is throwing a party at NASA, inviting Fræbbblarnir + Guests some of Iceland's sweatiest rock outfits to play: Sign (who haven't been on an Sódóma 22:00 Icelandic stage for a whole year – and The first Icelandic punk band is climbing Sódóma's stage on April 30th. What? You're they have been missed!), cheerful thinking of some weird white-haired wannabe rockers who need an elevator to get rawk-rockers Cliff Clavin, twenty- on stage? Don't worry, just because they were the first Icelandic punk band doesn't year-old post-rockers For A Minor mean they're doters. Fræbbblarnir (The Staaamens) were founded as a just-for-fun- Reflection, grunge throwbacks Noise, college-band in 1978 (with their youngest member being only 14 years old – check the ever-unattainable Ten Steps Away, out Dr. Gunni’s rock history in our last ish for more info) and just somehow never got and Akureyri metal heroes Nevolution. around to leaving stage again. So gather your stamina and prepare for a historic – Doors open at eight, and if you want to and historical – rock show. SVT enjoy some cheap(ish) drinks, be sure to show up early. SVT

9 11 Apr. Apr.

From Darkness To Light! Festival of the Sacred Arts Hallgrímskirkja Church 23:30 Saturday and Sunday, 4.900 ISK

Hallgrímskirkja’s biannual Festival of the Sacred Arts is coming to a close, but there’s still time to catch the tail end of it – that is if you are reading this on April 9, 10, or 11. And in that case, you can stop by the church at noon on Friday the 9th to catch Schola Cantorum music and meditation and you can purchase a ticket at midi. is for the finale Saturday and Sunday concerts with Johannes Brahms’ “A German Requiem” performed by the Hallgrímskirkja Motet Choir along with soloists Birgitte Christensen and Andreas Schmid. Don’t they usually save the best for last anyways? If you missed the festival by the time you opened this paper, still go see Hallgrímskirkja if only to climb to the top for a nice panoramic view of the city. AA / Photos by Jói Kjartans Central Reykjavík FAXA FLÓI

ÓÐ SL FISKI

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Swimming LV JA “Financial 4 PP ∆ A K Pool LL ÆT I warm and mellow second-floor bar AG T 1 R LA ATA LÆ T ÍGUR K 5 Æ District” on Laugavegur that plays host to the A 16 SS ST AT Lauga A LT TI NS arty party crowd. The baroque wall SSTR T HR AT City F vegur 2 A N E Taxi RÆR V BORGARTÚ dressings and deep, rich colouredINGB ÐURG RG Hall ÓL ST GLaugavegur SU R Up ÞINGHO NG décor make this bar feel prettyRA swank, IN RNA Reykjavík’s main shopping ÐA SK U A T and culture street, featuring but the mood of the place can go from TJ TA Ó Town HVE The a wide range of bars, bisLA tros, RF Tower GUR ISG great to legendary within a heartbeat. cafes and restaurants. V ATA EGUR ERGS ÖR VE B ÍGUR CF A L UV Ð T AU

City ÁS USTÍGU GA ATA KJ AS VEGU

Pond UF G ÚN G RE SKÚL IR S TT KK R AT LA ISG AG ÍK IN A AT ATA R A NÓ ÞÓRSG R Hlemmur FR FR ÍGUR 3 Havarí National ÓÐ 7 UT Bus ST GU West RA A Terminal F Gallery ATA AusturstrætiS 6ide R of Iceland VIT SSTÍ AB LU NJ RR E ÁLSG ÓN HÁ A R TÚN Even before it opened, Havarí wasIM AT AT NO Ê A BA S Taxi Laugardals RK Hallgríms BERGÞ everybody’s favourite new musicBI and Swimming BALDURSG kirkja ÓRUG Pool design store. Headed by Svavar Pétur R Church ATA LAU SÓLE GU G and Berglind of Skakkamanage, the A TA BRAUTARHOLT AV AT TÍ EG AG ARGA UR shop shills the musical goods of Kimi YJ AG RS BR ARÐ AR The Einar Records, Borgin Hljómplötur, gogoyoko NJ RÁ GA Jónsson and Skakkapopp as well as posters, Sundhöllin ÐA Museum U TA Swimming S A K art, design products and clothing. CF G University R Pool RA IPHO S AT GU KIPHOL of Iceland BERG Hljómskáli SSTÍ LT T EI ÐURG ÚN Park ST R BARÓN ÍK SU University HR AÐ East AT 4 SG Hemmi og Valdi of Iceland INGB ARSTR AT UT NÓ Park L T Laugavegi 21 RA AU A RA Side Æ AU UT FÁ AB TI SV BR The “colonial store” Hemmi and Valdi RR EGUR HÁ NO TEI is a cosy hangout that has advanced S NARS GS VEGUR from being a toasty retreat, where one GUN Miklatún H Nordic House ÍGUR can score cheap beer and have a quiet Park Culture Center FLÓKA chat, into being a chock-full concert VA TNSMÝR ÁRST GA R TA venue and an all-night party place. AR VEGUR ÐA And believe us, the atmosphere is GAML Kjarvalsstaðir ATA A HR AU National brilliant. SKK BSÍ INGBR R Museum ARG AUT RÐ Coach UT A Terminal NJ RA

Ð Í ARB 5 L Tíu Dropar HR ÝR IN AH GB Laugavegur 27 I RA UM UT NG B LA ÓLS If you’re sick of all the arty cafés, filled TAÐ INGL MIK ARHLÍÐ with Sigur Rós wannabes browsing LA KR BRAU Facebook on their Macs – go to Tíu Reykjavík T Kringlan Domestic Shopping Dropar. It’s a back-to-basics Icelandic Airport Center café that hasn’t changed its interior Ë Ì since the sixties. Really proves the old adage “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Plus, the coffee’s great and so are the pancakes. SKK 7 Babalú 8 OSUSHI 9 Grái Kötturinn Skólavörðstíg 22 Lækjargata 2a Hverfisgata 16a Located on the second-floor Great place to satisfy your craving for Super relaxed and cozy diner/café of a quirky little building on raw fish and vinegar rice. The selection below street level. This place makes 6 Sódóma Reykjavík Skólavörðustígur, Babalú is an inviting, on ‘the train’ is wide and varied and the best hangover breakfast ever (the Tryggvagata 22 quaint and cosy café serving up the atmosphere is relaxed. Also, the truck!) and any-other-day breakfast as a selection of tea, coffee and hot colour-coded plates make it easy well. It’s a nice and relaxing place to Newly opened Sódóma on Tryggvagötu chocolate along with delicious baked to keep tabs on your budget while eat and increase your caffeine intake is already a hit with party crowds and goods and light meals. Food and scarfing down your maki and nigiri. CF and chill with friends or with some gig-goers alike. An extensive venue, drink aside, Babalú boasts colourfully reading material. CF filled with reasonably priced beverages decorated and super-comfortable and reasonably good looking people. surroundings and a genuinely friendly Some of Iceland’s finest musical and likeable staff. CF ventures have played in recent months, and their schedule looks promising too. Also, make sure to visit their men’s room for a glance at the “Pissoir of Absolution”. JB Central Reykjavík FAXA FLÓI

ÓÐ SL FISKI

UR ARÐ G 6 7 8 9 10 13 Deli ANDA GR For a map of outside downtown Bankastræti 14 Maritime Museum Reykjavík check out links on Getting a good slice of pizza on the Th www.grapevine.is or the Icelandic go can be an utter ordeal. If you’re e not careful, you’ll frequently wind up Old Harbour Old phonebook website www.ja.is Depart for whale and puffin paying good money for a cardboardy watching tours from the old Harbou ST r wafer that has been sitting in a heater harbour, a lively area, offering AU box for a week. Not at Deli, however. ÁNAN an assortment of restaurants MÝR and activity centres Their slices are consistently awesome AR GA and fresh, the topping selection is TA intriguing and tasteful and, best of all, NÝLENDUG Old Harbour they’re really cheap. ATA Area SVEGUR NE 14 FRAM R Café d’Haiti U R ÍG ÁNA VEST T RG Future AT U Tryggvagata 12 RS A RGA GEI Concert A B T RS ÁRUG A GATA Hall AT The first time I entered this exotic little BORG A A Reykjavík joint, meaning to buy myself a take- RA ÖL AT D Art ÆÐ UGA SG I Museum away espresso, I ended up with two BR TA ÆGI ÆT Main TR kilos of fresh and roasted coffee beans YG Tourist GV due to some language complications ASTR Down Info AG Ð ATA R and way too much politeness. Since Taxi Town GA HAFNAR then I have enjoyed probably way-too- I S SÆBR TÚNG A ST K ATA ÆT US RÆTI ÚL many wonderful cups of Haitian coffee, R TUR T ST The AG S RÆ AU T A but they’re always as nice, so the two AL Austur I Culture TA T I National AÐ völlur T House kilos were definitely worth it. SKK TA Park Theatre K RÆ R GA IRK U JUST BANK LIN AUT RÆ HVE ÍG DARGA Skyline SÆBR ALLA TI TA T STH.ST A Icelandic A ST RF S TA 15 Ó RÆ IS Hressó P G Vesturbæjar RG ATA HOFSV SÓ Parliament I TI AR

Swimming LV JA “Financial PP ∆ A K Austurstræti 20 Pool LL ÆT I AG T R LA ATA LÆ T ÍGUR Æ K District” A You know, Hressó is basically the only SS ST AT Lauga A LT TI NS SSTR T place I go for coffee. Why? Their coffee HR AT City F vegur A N Taxi RÆR V BORGARTÚ INGB ÐURG RG Hall ÓL is decent to excellent, but their forte is ST GLaugavegur SU R Up ÞINGHO NG RA IN surely their wonderful patio, where you RNA Reykjavík’s main shopping ÐA SK U A T and culture street, featuring TJ TA Ó Town HVE The can enjoy the spring breeze in the sun, a wide range of bars, bisLA tros, RF Tower GUR ISG cafes and restaurants. V ATA wrap yourself in a blanket beneath an EGUR ERGS ÖR VE B ÍGUR A L electric heater in January and at all UV Ð T AU

City ÁS USTÍGU GA ATA KJ AS VEGU

Pond UF G ÚN G RE SKÚL times: smoke. They boast of quite the IR S TT KK R AT LA ISG AG ÍK IN A AT ATA prolific menu, but I’d reconsider the R A NÓ ÞÓRSG R Hlemmur FR FR ÍGUR ÓÐ UT Bus playlists to tell you the truth, too much National ST GU West RA A Terminal Gallery ATA of Nickelback really hurts. SKK Side R of Iceland VIT SSTÍ AB LU NJ RR E ÁLSG ÓN HÁ A R TÚN IM AT AT NO Ê A BA S Taxi Laugardals RK Hallgríms BERGÞ BI Swimming 16 BALDURSG kirkja ÓRUG Pool Á Næstu Grösum R Church ATA LAU SÓLE GU G Laugavegi 20b A TA BRAUTARHOLT AV AT TÍ EG AG ARGA UR YJ AG RS BR ARÐ Á Næstu Grösum is an all vegetarian AR The Einar NJ RÁ restaurant right in the city centre that GA Jónsson Sundhöllin ÐA Museum U TA Swimming S features a friendly atmosphere and A K University R Pool RA IPHO S AT GU KIPHOL fair prices. There is always at least of Iceland BERG Hljómskáli SSTÍ LT T one vegan soup on offer and the daily EI ÐURG ÚN Park ST R BARÓN ÍK special portions are big and always SU University HR AÐ East AT SG of Iceland INGB ARSTR satisfying. There is even some organic AT UT NÓ Park L T RA AU A RA Side wine on offer. Æ AU UT FÁ AB TI SV BR RR EGUR HÁ NO TEIGS S NARS VEGUR GUN Miklatún Nordic House ÍGUR Park 17 Austur Culture Center FLÓKA VA TNSMÝR ÁRST GA R TA Austurstræti 7 AR VEGUR ÐA GAML Kjarvalsstaðir ATA A HR AU Sleek and shiny, this new restaurant I R National BSÍ NGBR Museum and bar is a straight-up boutique ARG AUT RÐ Coach UT A Terminal hot spot for stylish kids and trendy NJ RA professionals alike. Appropriate for Ð Í ARB HR L formal business meetings but casual ÝR IN AH GB enough for the roll-out-bed-at-5pm RA UM UT NG

LA B crowd, they serve up ample, satisfying, ÓLS TAÐ INGL MIK AR modern dishes at reasonable prices. LA HLÍÐ KR BRAU This is also one of the rare places to Reykjavík T Kringlan Shopping get a full breakfast all day long! It’s Domestic Center Airport really fucking good too. RL Ë Ì Lunch special: Panini, salad and soup. 10 Nonnabiti 11 Bakkus 12 Sægreifinn 18 Jacobsen Price: 990 KR. Hafnarstræti 9 Tryggvagata 22 – Naustarmegin Verbúð 8, Geirsgata Laugavegur 22 Delicious and relatively cheap A new and welcome addition to Down by the Reykjavík harbour, Jacobsen is owned by some nouveau considering how massive and filling Reykajvík’s bar scene, Bakkus serves Sægreifinn fish shop and restaurant riche Swedes, and has been providing their sandwiches are. The Luxury Sub, up reasonably priced beer, a really is truly a unique establishment. The a non-stop party over the last few with salty pork, veggies, sauce and impressive selection of international menu features various fish dishes months. Besides its importing foreign pineapple is a brilliant combination vodkas and an atmosphere unlike (including most of the “crazy Icelandic big-shot DJs and other niceties, it of flavours for late-night munchies. any other in town. An eclectic mix of food” you’ll want to tell your friends is probably most appreciated for its from 8 a.m. It’s just as satisfying and filling during patrons, regular live music and movie you had) and a rich portion of the best loooong hours; it doesn’t matter if you more civilized hours as well. And the nights keep this place interesting lobster soup we’ve ever tasted. Good stop partying at 2AM or way-too-much service is fast if you’re in a rush. CF and always inviting. Expect dancing food and welcoming service make this AM, Jacobsen is always forking out on tables and to-the-death foosball place a must-try. shots and cocktails. SKK battles. CF Italian coffee, cakes, light meals, and great books ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS

31 March - 8 May Cocktail pleasures and New works by Lawrence Weiner. Visual stimulation Living Art Museum / Nýló 11 March - 9 May Intercurse With The Collection How to use the listings: Venues are listed The National Gallery of Iceland alphabetically by day. For complete listings 11 March - 2 May and detailed information on venues visit Wistful Memory www.grapevine.is Four artists' take on the power of memory. 11 March - 2 May Workplaces of Real Men Photographs by Ívar Brynjólfsson. OPENING The National Museum APRIL Permanent exhibition: The Making of a Nation Heritage and History in Iceland is intend- 10 ed to provide insight into the history of ASÍ Art Museum the Icelandic nation from the Settlement Ólafur Gíslason­—Identity Check to the present day. Ólafur Gíslason, a professor at the January 30 - April 30 Icelandic Academy of Art, exhibits his Embroidery of Life work on the self-image of Icelandic youth. Embroidery by Guðrún Guðmundsdóttir, Ongoing until May 2. inspired by old Icelandic manuscripts. 28 November 2009 - ongoing 10 Ása Wright - From Iceland to Trinidad Kling & Bang Collection of objects that belonged to the hekla Dögg Jónsdóttir adventuress Ása Guðmundsdóttir. Engaging mixed media sculpture, often The Nordic House including cathode lights. Ongoing until 10 April - 30 September May 2nd. Land Of Experiments 10 Interactive exhibit based on scientific Living Art Museum / Nýló contraptions from Tom Tits Experimen- hrókering / Castling tarium in Sweden. Play! Seven young artists exhibit their work. Ráðhús Reykjavíkur Dulin Himintungl 29 Kim Linnet exhibits her 360° panorama Reykjavík Art Museum photos of Iceland. Hafnarhús Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 Iceland Academy of Art´s Graduation Permanent exhibition: Exhibition the Settlement Exhibition Ongoing until May 9. Reykjavík Art Museum MAY Ásmundarsafn 2 May 2009 - April 30 6 Rhyme - Works by Ásmundur Sveins- Gerðuberg son and Contemporary Artists Everyone Has Talent Reykjavík Art Museum Art group exhibits their winter's work in Hafnarhús collaboration with Art Without Boundar- 28 May 2009 - August 29 ies. Ongoing until June 30. Erró - Portraits 18 March - 23 May Erró - Portraits - Women from North Africa January 15 - April 11 ONGOING Coloursynthesis February 25 - April 11 Arbæjarsafn / Reykjavík City D-16 - Katrín Elvarsdóttir Museum Reykjavík Art Museum 1 September - 31 May Kjarvalsstaðir Winter Program January 30 - April 25 This open-air historical museum offers Kjarval - Insights: Warrior Maidens guided tours Monday, Wednesday, and and Ships of Fancy Friday at 13:00. February 13 - April 25 Iceland is a dish best served cold Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Watery Hues: A Survey of Icelandic Museum Watercolours 01 May 2009 - April 30 February 13 - April 25 Rhyme - Works by Ásmundur Sveins- Water and Colour son and contemporary artists Educational family-oriented workshop in This exhibition showcases contempo- conjunction with the exhibition Watery rary artists that tackle similar issues as Hues. Ásmundur did in his time, but in a context Reykjavik Maritime Museum of a new age. Permanent exhibition: The Culture House Boats, fishing, and coastal culture. Permanent Exhibition: Special exhibition hall hosts short-term Medieval Manuscripts exhibitions. February 3 - ongoing Reykjavik Museum of Photography Icelanders 23 January - 9 May 551 1166 - www.bogf.is Exhibit featuring a selection of photo- Jóna Þorvaldsdóttir - SENSES graphs from the book "Icelanders" by Un- Mysterious, often sensual photos made nur Jökulsdóttir and Sigurgeir Sigurjóns- using antiquated techniques. son. 23 January - 9 May March 28 2009 - September 2010 Jakob Jakobsson - AT WORK ICELAND :: FILM Artist draws on 50 years as a civil Traces the evolution of Icelandic filmmak- engineer. Black and white industrial ing, exploring myths versus modernity. landscapes and portraits. March 10 - ongoing Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum the Nation and Nature February 12 - ongoing Thirty-minute film about the relationship Who is who? Don’t let the rough between humans and nature. Film plays February 15 - ongoing continuously during open hours. A Moment with Sigurjón Ólafsson The Library Room 12 August 2009 - ongoing exterior fool you! National Archives of Iceland - 90 years in the museum building. Commemorating the 100th anniversary of 10 the Culture House. Mar. Scheduled Busses The Dwarf Gallery Ongoing Icelandic Filmmaking Linienbusse An independent art gallery with ongoing exhibitions. It´s located in an old base- Retrospective Linjebussar ment. Do you really need to know any more than that? ICELAND :: FILM Bus régulier The Einar Jónsson Museum 10 March - September Permanent exhibition: Áætlunarbílar The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson. The Culture House Gallerí Fold 6 April - 2 May Ever seen an Icelandic film? This exhibit Sound fragments has everything you’ll ever need to know, Works by Shannon Novak. for film neophytes and experts alike. Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum Discover Iceland’s cinematic voice, Gljúfrasteinn was the home and work- contrasting past with present, myths place of Halldór Laxness (winner of the with reality. The exhibit chronicles Our busses are warm Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955). over 100 years of Icelandic filmmaking Hafnarborg in four stations: feature films, short 13 March - 2 May films, literature adaptations, and Children´s Sizes on the inside! Design for kids. documentaries. Visitors can watch over i8 Gallery 100 films in full length, so go prepared to invest some time. SO 29 6 Apr. May. Taste the best of Iceland ...

Icelandic Gourmet Fiest Starts with a shot of the infamous Icelandic spirit Brennívín Art School Grad Show Awesomeness Iceland Academy of the Arts Grad Show Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce Opens April 29 Icelandic sea-trout with peppers-salsa Reykjavík Art Museum—Hafnarhús Lobster tails baked in garlic After three years of study, IAA grads are breaking loose. Fine Arts, Design, and Pan-fried monkfish with lobster sauce Architecture grads will be exhibiting the crowning achievements of their academic careers in the form of paintings, sculptures, multimedia installations, performances— Grilled Icelandic lamb Samfaina you name it. The exhibition promises to be diverse, and, as a bonus on the already Minke Whale with cranberry-sauce free admission, visitors will be able to witness nine people from the art department collaborating on “a Land,” incorporating various events throughout the exhibition. Chocolate cake with berry compoté We don’t know what this means, but it sounds like there’s a high likelihood of and whipped cream stumbling into something fun. SO 13 Mar.

Our kitchen is open to 23:30 on weekdays Reykjavík City Theatre Recites THE BLACK REPORT RESTAURANT- BAR Reykjavík Theatre Reads the Black Report and 01:00 on weekends Vesturgata 3B | 101 Reykjavík April 12 (assuming the Commission stops teasing us) Tel: 551 2344 | www.tapas.is Reykjavik City Theatre (Borgarleikhúsið) - FREE The Reykjavik City Theatre group plans to read out loud the much-anticipated 2,000-page Black Report detailing the investigation into Iceland’s banking crash. The report was commissioned by Iceland’s parliament more than two years ago, and was originally scheduled for release this past February. The commission in charge has since then postponed their deadline a few times (for some reason, us normal folks aren’t allowed to do that) and Icelanders are rightfully getting impatient. If they actually stick to their new April 12 deadline, 45 actors from the Reykjavík City Theatre plan on reading the report out loud, all day and all night, until they get through the thing – an estimated three-to-five days later. Free admission for everyone. And for those who would prefer to listen from home, the reading will also be streamed over the Reykjavik City Theatre website: FIRE AND ICE www.borgarleikhus.is. Note: The report will be read in Icelandic, but because this is such an epic ADVENTURES OF ALL KINDS moment for Icelanders, it is well worth checking out. AA Art | Venue finder Check out our Eruption Tours 101 Gallery Gallery Ágúst The National Gallery of Hverfisgata 18A | E3 Baldursgata 12 | F4 Iceland Thu–Sat 14–17 and by appoint- Wed–Sat 12–17 Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | F3 ment www.galleriagust.is Tue–Sun 11–17 www.101hotel. Gallery Fold www.listasafn.is is/101hotel/101gallery/ Rauðarástígur 14-16 | G7 The National Artótek Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat 11–16 / Museum Tryggvagata 15 | D2 Sun 14–16 Suðurgata 41 | G1 Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu 10–19, Fri www.myndlist.is Open daily 10–17 11–19, Sat and Sun 13–17 Gallery Kling & Bang natmus.is www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/ Hverfisgata 42 | E5 The Nordic House Artotek Thurs–Sun from 14–18 Sturlugata 5 | H1 ASÍ Art Museum this.is/klingogbang/ Tue–Sun 12–17 Freyugata 41 | G4 www.nordice.is/ FREE Gallery Turpentine Tue–Sun 13–17 Ingólfstræti 5 | E3 The Numismatic Museum BOOKING SERVICE Árbæjarsafn Tue–Fri 12–18 / Sat 11–16 Einholt 4 | G7 Kistuhylur 4 www.turpentine.is Open Mon–Fri 13:30–15:30. The Culture House Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Reykjavík 871+/-2 Hverfisgata 15 | E4 Gerðuberg 3-5 Aðalstræti 17 | D2 Open daily 11–17 Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed 11–21 / Open daily 10–17 www.thjodmenning.is Thu–Fri 11–17 / Sat–Sun 13–16 Reykjavík Art Gallery Dwarf Gallery www.gerduberg.is Skúlagata 28 | F6 Grundarstígur 21 | H6 Havarí Tuesday through Sunday 14–18 Opening Hours: Fri and Sat Austurstræti 6 | E3 Reykjavík Art Museum 18–20 Hitt Húsið Open daily 10–16 www.this.is/birta – Gallery Tukt www.listasafnreykjavikur.is The Einar Jónsson Museum Pósthússtræti 3-5 | E3 Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculp- Eiriksgata | G4 www.hitthusid.is ture Museum Sigtún Tue–Sun 14–17 i8 Gallery Hafnarhús Icelandic Travel Market www.skulptur.is Tryggvagata 16 | D2 Tryggvagata 17 | D2 Fótógrafí Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat 13–17 and Kjarvalsstaðir Tourist Information Center - Internet Access - Sightseeing Skólavörðustígur 4a | F4 by appointment. www.i8.is Flókagata | I7 Glacier Tours - Super Jeep Tours - Car Rental - Flight/Helicopter Tours www.fotografi.is Living Art Museum Reykjavík City Theatre Listabraut 3 Horse Riding Tours - Whale Watching Tours Gallery 100° Skúlagata 28 | F6 Diving/Snorkeling Tours - Private Tours Bæjarháls 1 Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / Thu Reykjavík Maritime Museum Spör ehf. www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100/ 13–22. www.nylo.is Grandagarður 8 | C3 Open weekdays from Lost Horse Gallery Reykjavík Museum of Pho- 08:30–16:00 Vitastigur 9a | E3 tography Gallery Auga fyrir Auga Weekends from 13–19 and by Tryggvagata 16 | D2 BOOKING CENTER - Icelandic Travel Market Hverfisgata 35 | E4 appointment on weekdays. Weekdays 12–19 / Sat–Sun Bankastræti 2 - Downtown Gallery StartArt Hafnarborg 13–17 - www.ljosmyndasafn- Laugavegur 12B | E4 Strandgötu 34, reykjavikur.is Tel: +354 522 4979 Tue–Sat 1–17 Hafnarfjörður Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum [email protected] - www.itm.is www.startart.is Laugarnestangi 70 F D by the sea and a delicios lobster For your mind, body and soul at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri REVIEWS Food For All Budgets The (fiscal) highs and lows of Reykjavík dining

I love a good option. Actually, I love plentiful options. I particularly enjoy said bounty of options when deciding on where to

Spör ehf. -Spör Ragnheiður ehf. Ágústsdóttir grab a bite to eat. Luckily for me and my option-adoring cohorts, Reykjavík is not lacking in restaurants of all price-points. Regardless of how close or far one is from payday this city has got you and your grumbling, option-loving stomach covered.

Perched atop the Hotel Saga in Hagatorg, Grillið has been serving up fine-dining and hard-to-top panoramic views of the Start Of The Month Treats city, suburbs and Esja for over forty years. Grillið is quite possibly the highest of the high-end. It’s no wonder this classy joint has enjoyed its longevity, with impeccable service from the moment guests step through its door. Having spent the ride over to the hotel gushing about the pristine skies and anticipating heart-stopping views of Esja, my heart sunk when the host guided my date and I to our table along the wall with closed wooden blinds. Seriously? We’re grown adults and all, but we pouted just a little as we gazed across the restaurant, envious of the patrons seated along the length of the windowed wall sans blinds. We tucked our bottom lips back in though once our blinds were raised, unveiling a stunning orange sunset over Vesturbær. As magnificent as the service and beurre blanche was a surprising medley, Grillið views are, Grillið’s food is what we were combining the richness of butter with the there for and we were eager to discover fresh zing of citrus. The most awesome Hótel Saga what the collective of chefs had up component of the plate, however, were What we think: Creative, the lobster lava rocks – seemingly their sleeves. So, we both ordered the masterfully prepared cuisine Discovery menu (8.900 ISK), offering charred to a crisp, portions of lobster four courses of the chefs choosing. identical in appearance to lava rock that Flavour: Rich and complex Before we even discovered our first somehow managed to not taste at all course, out came light-as-air crisp wafers burnt and were more akin to the Thai Ambiance: Upscale with of rye and lamb and smoked salmon, shrimp chips. But lobster. great views. paired with a fresh, whipped horseradish Confession: I was tempted when Service: Professional and spread. A trio of fresh breads and ordering the discovery menu to request accompanying spreads – Icelandic butter that my main course not be beef. Beef knowledgeable. with red salt, olive and rapeseed – came just isn’t my thing. Never has been. But I next. This was followed by yet another kept my mouth shut and decided to take pre-order amuse bouche of marinated whatever Grillið’s masterminds threw cucumber with dill granita and parsnip at me. This may possibly be the smarted enjoyed the play between flavours and purée – a refreshing palate cleanser with decision I’ve ever made because beef textures that we both not-so-secretly a pleasing crunch. tenderloin on oxtail is without a doubt the hoped that our fourth and final course The first course of our ordered most heavenly succulent red meat combo would be more of the same. menu turned out to be a salmon dish; a I’ve ever experienced. Just reflecting on Finally, the real dessert. Chocolate, duo comprised of pan-fried and butter it now inspires me to use such youthful chocolate and more chocolate. Chocolate smoked miniature fillet with horseradish acronyms as OMG and the like. soup beside chocolate foam atop a white and celery root. While the pan-fried This meat was incredible. The chocolate square, beside a milk chocolate portion was slightly flaky for my taste, tenderloin was browned on the outside brownie, beside rice and pistachio ice the butter smoked morsel melted in the but soft and dark pink inside and the cream on a white chocolate parfait. mouth, as “butter smoked” suggests it oxtail disintegrated in my mouth, it was Chocolate overload! The pistachio ice would, and let the taste of the high- so tender. The plate was shared with a cream, parfait and foam were sinfully quality salmon speak for itself. potato cake topped with mushrooms, a rich, the brownie was sticky and moist Secondly we were presented with cone of artichoke purée and a smear of and gooey. The chocolate soup, my date a portion of halibut alongside a long thick date sauce. and I agreed, was on the bitter side. I left rectangle of carrot flan painted on the I could have done without the most of mine on the plate; my date ate plate, topped with lobster lava rocks and artichoke cone. The bottom portion hers but commented that is was her least drizzled with beurre blanche infused of it tasted too raw, and the gelatinous favourite item in that course. with orange. My eyes nearly popped out consistency of the thing rubbed me the After four courses and just as many of my head when this dish was placed wrong way. extra little surprises, my date and I sat in front of me, the bright orange, green, Yet another welcome add-on to our and watched the few lights of the city’s white and black combination on the plate four-course menu was the pre-dessert west side glow in the now dark night. was spectacular; the complimentary that came next, presented personally by More than three hours had passed since flavours even more so. The halibut was a charming, soft-spoken dessert chef. we were first seated but we would have delectably tender, reminiscent of the This was a lovely touch. The little treat never guessed. Each plate presented to us butter smoked salmon that preceded it was equally lovely. Beetroot and white had grabbed our attention and sparked but still new and different; the carrot flan chocolate sorbet with pistachio and conversation when the table was empty. was sweet and savoury all at once; the chocolate crumble. My date and I so This meal was truly a pleasure.

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1 Ávaxtabíllinn It’s the fruit-mobile! Let’s be honest, sometimes (all the time) the fruit selection at Bónus leaves much to be desired, and hauling your cookies out of 101 is way too much work. Luckily Ávaxtabíllinn brings the healthy produce to you. Thanks, Ávaxtabíllinn! www.avaxtabillinn.is.

2 Shalimar Ever have a hankering for Indian and Pakistani cuisine but just can’t bring yourself to put on shoes. We’ve all been there. For 1000 ISK, you can have said eastern cuisine brought to your doorstep. The food is delicious, no matter where you eat it. www.shalimar.is.

3 Domino’s Pizza Hot pizza with toppings of your choice End Of The Month Cheaps delivered from the oven to your door is a good thing. Therefore, Domino’s is a good It doesn’t get much more affordable Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur thing. It’s simple math. www.dominos.is or than Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur. Hot dogs 581-2345. for just 280 ISK, and soda for 170. You’d Tryggvagata 3 x Bakery be hard pressed to find cheaper eats What we think: Best pylsa in in Reykjavík, or anywhere else for that town. 1 Sandholt matter. This classy little bakery on Laugavegur Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur has Flavour: Better than all the other is a feast for the senses. The glass case Shark been serving up hot dogs with all the hotdogs. stocked with snúður, danishes, pain au raisin, Lamb toppings to the hungry masses and chocolate lava cakes, etc. are very hard to Whale well-informed tourists (including the Ambiance: Street eats. resist. The sandwiches are pretty wonderful likes of Metallica’s James Hetfield and Puffin Service: Fast and friendly. too. Laugavegur 36 phallus aficionado/former P.U.S.A. Bill Wild game Clinton) for 73 years. Four generations, 2 Mosfellsbakarí and ALL the in the same location on Tryggvagata While not conveniently located in the almost the whole time. Some of today's 101 area, this well-known bakery is well icelandic staff have worked there for over thirty worth the drive to Mosfellsbær (or their beers The pylsa is just how I years. The place is a legend. other shop in 108 RVK). Their baked remembered. Run of the mill bun, Kitchen open When I idled up to BBP on this goods are always flaky and moist and ample toppings, steaming hot sausage. till 23:00 particular day, it was admittedly not gooey and sweet and delicious. Also, The casing of the sausage pops in my first time in that line-up. I had a they deliver. Háholt 13-15, Mosfellsbær my mouth as I bite into it and the love affair with “eina með öllu” (that’s a or Háaleitisbraut 58-60, Reykjavík combination of crunchy and fresh Pósthússtræti 9 Reykjavík Tel: 578 2020 hot dog topped with ketchup, mustard, onions and the darker hot dog mustard 3 Kvosin fried onion, fresh onion and remoulade www.icelandicbar.is [email protected] add some gentle bite and complexity to Nestled down on Aðalstræti next door to a – one with everything) early last the texture. It’s a decent snack or meal. small grocery shop of the same name, this summer; one so intense that it ended up The one lesson I never seem to is the latest addition to Reykjavík’s baking spontaneously combusting, resulting learn is that I just don’t like remoulade. scene. The big perk about this place is in a lengthy separation. But here I was, It’s too mayonnaise-y, too thick, too that they’ve got ample seating at which to waiting to experience that familiar something I can never seem to put my enjoy the spoils of the confectioner’s ovens. flavour combination that Icelanders so all the best finger on until I’ve downed my pylsa Aðalstræti 6-8 love once again. and think to myself “damn, I wish I 3 x Unhealthy adventures hadn’t asked for remoulade.” But at the same time I know that I would 1 Rikki Chan take place be unsatisfied without the added You can practically taste the MSG, and feel condiment. It’s a bit of a double-edged the pounds securely fastening themselves under a bridge sword, I suppose. I hope to find a to your midsection when scarfing down the solution some day. generous portions doled out at the Chinese Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur are, food component of the Kringlan food court. without a doubt the best pylsur I’ve But it’s a lot of food for relatively little money, tasted in Iceland. They are fresh and and it tastes pretty decent. Kringlan 4-12 tasty where others are lacking. There’s 2 American Style a good reason why this tiny little stand Burgers topped with bacon and cheese is never without a long queue. And it’s Drop in for our lunch offers or take the and other burgers and sided with fries and cheap. - Catharine Fulton cocktail sauce, etc. A trip to American Style plunge and book a table for a culinary is a practice in gluttonous overindulgence. experience without a match! Tryggvagata 26

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The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04 — 2010 15 Nico And Jónsi GO ALL IN!

in the world and putting them together. social life. those first sixteen years of my life. Care- It’s a tough process – the whole thing is a On being fired by Courtney Really well, I might add. J: Exactly, exactly. This same thing hap- free and fun. Total freedom. disaster. An expensive disaster. Love. And Icesave. J: It’s so funny, I’ve been in a band with pened to me actually. I grew up in a small J: Have you talked to Bára from Aftur? four other people for sixteen years. It’s so town outside Reykjavík, Mosfellsbær, and On delicious moments, always She could make it. She’s making all our -For the common reader, could you explain diplomatic and democratic – we make ev- I didn’t know any gays or lesbians until I costumes for the tour and it’s been great the difference between songwriting and ar- ery decision together. And if you get tired was something like 21 years old. That’s N: Do you feel like you’re sometimes try- working with her. I don’t like buying ranging. Can, for instance, a Nico Muhly fan of some aspect or element, one of the oth- kinda when I came out of the closet. Un- ing to recreate that period, the carefree- clothes and I don’t like spending money buy Jónsi’s album for the arrangements? er guys will take it over and you’ll not have til you come out, you have this urge to be ness. on them. I’m Icelandic in that way, I don’t J: It was definitely fun for me to write the to think about it. This is so different, hav- happy and fulfilled, but the only way to J: Probably in some way. It’s such a beau- waste money on clothes. It’s funny for me, songs and then get Nico to bring it to an- ing to be focused the whole time, making do that is to create something. You have tiful moment. Such an ecstatic, carefree when Bára is sewing my stage outfits, I try other level, for me it was amazing to ex- decisions, pretending you know what’s to make things for yourself, to draw, play moment. No bullshit – no worries. to make her do clothes that I can wear in perience. best for the project. It’s difficult, and as I music, paint or whatever. You have this N: No sixteen layers of not speaking your daily life. To save money [laughs]. N: I’ll say that someone might recognize said, it made me really respect Björk and urge to meet another boy or kiss some- mind. That’s often what I’m trying to ac- my footprints on the album, but it’s defi- what she’s been doing. This is what she body or hug them, but you can’t, because complish. Getting back to that first mo- On why gay people make better nitely not my album. As I said before, my has to deal with every day. you don’t know anybody. You’re stuck in a ment, right before that first moment, and music job as an arranger is to make Jónsi look N: Since she was like seventeen, that bitch small town. write a score for that. That’s the parts of fabulous. It’s to make the singer has been working it. N: And even if you did know someone, it my music people like, and dislike. It’s an -Returning to an earlier topic: do you guys [a grinning Jónsi snaps on a latex glove J: I have really big respect for Björk. Who- felt weird. uncomfortable thing to exist in that land- think gay people make different music from from a box of complimentary that rests on ah. J: Yes. I kept making this big mistake of scape, before. Just delicious moments, straight folks? our counter] N: As do I. Remember when we e-mailed falling in love with my friends. A classic always. look great and sound great. Some arrang- her in the middle of the night. That was gay thing. J: It is so strong in everybody, everybody N: Much, much better music. Because ers try and take credit for writing, which fun. N: You mustn’t fall in love with your loves their instinct and follows it, but they why? Because it’s informed. The gay per- I would never do. All I am trying to do is I always think about her process as friends. There is a built in loneliness to get caught up in society, slowly you get son does not have an entitlement to life, make you look good. It’s not my shit, it’s being this thing that involves knowing. the gay experience, a very intense one. caught up in this stampede of information rather a need to make the world into her your shit. I’ve just put this costume on it. She’ll send people to all the corners of the Just by nature of the number of things, it’s and bullshit. You get caught up and your image. Earth searching for ingredients, then she so lonely. true self gets lost. J: The gayness forces you to make stuff. I kicks everyone out and cooks for herself. J: In any case, I think being gay has af- N: Thinking about this, what’s funny is think it’s so fucked... If you’re going to feel “This rule is a fucking She has this amazing ability and talent to fected me a lot as a musician. It is focal in that I feel like now you’re living a life that’s good in this society we live in, you have make things awesome with the available a lot of my music making and... [trails off, as out and about as one could hope for, but to make something good. So you can feel joke. They only ask gay resources. The best resources, really. eyes glued to the TV screen in the corner]. it’s also quite a composed life. It’s good. good. It’s all about the right ingredients. And You have this insane dietary thing... [Jónsi N: In my experience, straight composers guys if they had anal you can always get better at that process. -Now, THAT was a cumshot. adheres to a strict raw food diet]. get away with not thinking too hard about My mother goes to the store not knowing J: I know. The thing is that it’s just really things. “It is or it is not, yada yada...” just... sex. They don’t care if what to cook, she’ll just buy the stuff that On rethinking it all healthy and fun. With everything you do, blah. Whereas – and there are of course looks good and mixes it all together into if you live for it, if you don’t listen to any- many exceptions – I hold true that gay peo- you’re a straight person something amazing. And that’s kind of N: We were all talking about the gay expe- thing... ple have to make their own garden, kind how you have to be, a mix of instinct and rience and the straight person mentions N: I listen to everything, you don’t listen of, their own vocabulary, rocks and trees and you’ve fucked every insight. We might be eating this cauliflow- the cumshot! Ha! Alright. I’ve always felt to anything. and plants. er anchovy thing; even if it sounds fucked like gay musicians have this obligation to J: But you only like what you like. This is woman you know in the up you know it’ll be genius by accident. make something that’s sooooo good. For true for me as well. I think people should -Is modern composition a big gay scene? me, that served as quality control, a little. I be more aware of what they put in their ass. That’s fine.” On being sane felt that as a gay man, I had an obligation bodies – music or food – it’s your fucking N: No, and I think all of my favourite com- to make good music. It’s served me well. fuel, it’s what keeps you going. posers are actually straight. Philip Glass, -I got told to ask you this, Nico. What’s your -Do you believe music has a purpose; does it J: Yeah, that’s definitely good in the long N: I only buy expensive food. If you’re pay- Steve Reich and John Adams are not the relationship with Courtney Love? have one for you? run. But kind of hard to have on your ing an exorbitant amount of money for gay composers. Benjamin Britten is the J: I can see Nico twittering there, he really shoulders nonetheless. something, chances are it’s good. high watermark of how music can make N: I think she fired me. I did a bunch of ar- wants to talk. But I’ll answer first. I think N: I’ve always felt like everything I did has me feel. He made music... he was a ho- rangements for her and it was a big fiasco. music is all about keeping you sane. Writ- to be just perfect. It’s also something. All On buying expensive clothes mosexual and he made the most exclusive I’m pretty sure she’s fired me. Through ing music, writing songs and stuff, that’s my parent’s friends were gay; everyone music that resonates so specifically with Twitter? No, she hired me through Twitter, also about keeping you sane, about keep- was gay around me, growing up. J: I have to make everything from scratch, me. I don’t know. It’s a weird thing. All I but hasn’t called back after we recorded. ing you fulfilled and happy and it can re- J: It’s so funny, you grew up in a totally like Nico’s mother. Everything I eat. I know is that I am becoming more severe -What do you guys think about Icesave? inforce the belief that life has some mean- different landscape. You were just gay can’t go to a store and buy ketchup; I have recently about the importance of being ing. It’s really simple. all the way, you didn’t grow up being the to make it from scratch. Not mustard; gay. In America at least, it’s crazy. You J: I have no clue what’s happening in Icesave. N: Yeah, quite so. I was basically going to weird guy in the family. I was exactly the I have to make it from ground mustard can’t be in the army if you’re a homo; if N: I do! I listen to BBC World Service ev- say the same thing, but forty times longer. opposite, growing up in the countryside, seeds, I’ve done that, I make burgers and you’re gay you’re not good enough to die ery day and e-mail people about it. No, I For me, the purpose was established the really straight parents, really straight fam- stuff like that. A lot of your energy goes for your country. have no idea. I think people shouldn’t have first time I ever got full body Goosebumps. ily, straight friends... into making food when you’re a raw-food- J: Actually, my big gripe with being gay in invested in another country’s shady shit. It I was eleven and singing in a choir, a piece N: But the good news for you is that even ist, but it’s worth it and I think everyone Iceland is that I can’t donate blood. It’s so was like giving Nigerian internet people by William Bird. if you’re growing up in a place where ev- should be doing it. fucking stupid. your money, really. Did you see the return J: I have to go to the toilet. eryone is gay, it’s still fucking lonely and N: Part of the reasons why I dress like I N: It’s the same shit in America. I tried rate? It was made up! It was a pool party weird. Which I think is good. The best, in do is if you buy really expensive clothes, donating after 9/11 and they were asking – everybody was cheering all this easy, -Nico, could you describe our surroundings fact. I don’t know, but it was just as weird chances are it’s not slave labour. It’s not “Have you had anal sex with a man in the easy money. It seemed too good to be true, while Jónsi finds his release? to have a million gay people to be with, made by eighteen children in a Thai base- last twelve months?” My jaw dropped. which it of course was. I didn’t want to be just like them. There ment but some designer in Japan some- I was all like “FUCK YOU! You had sex N: We’re at the Leather Bar in Reykjavík, were also generational differences... where. with your dumb husband in the last twelve The night slowly descends into even more sitting at the entrance to the fisting room, J: It worked out for me in the end. I knew J: Nico only dresses in black. I never wear months, I presume. chaos. Folks hug. We go fetch another bottle which is currently not being used. Go poke I was gay, and had like this special thing anything black. It’s a conscious choice. J: This rule is a fucking joke. They only of champagne. The fisting room gets occu- your head in there and make sure. Over for boys, and I fell in love with all my Black is no colour at all, an absence of co- ask gay guys if they had anal sex. They pied all of the sudden. Members of Jónsi’s there’s a gas mask and a bear pride flag, friends. I knew there was a definite differ- lour. I try and stay away from it. don’t care if you’re a straight person and band join us. At the very end of the night’s and a Scandinavian Leather Man Week ence between greater society and myself. N: I used to wear orange a lot. I had this you’ve fucked every woman you know in dictaphone recording, I later discover an ee- ad. To the right is the cage. And there’s a This made it necessary for me to rethink whole orange phase. I’m branching out the ass. That’s fine. rie call to arms, Blair Witch-style. It sounds pretty good movie running on the TV in everything, the whole of society, the whole from black right now actually. I’m work- N: If you one time put it in some guys like it was shouted by the pair in unison, al- the corner. Jónsi’s been watching it the world. The straight movies I’d been seeing ing with a really good blue, and if someone pooper, you can’t save someone else’s life. though there is no way of telling: whole time. my whole life, the rules I’d been taught were to make me a really good dark red I “GLOVES ARE OFF, BITCHES!” J: [back from the men’s room] I was actu- and my whole life. Everything. I had to would like that. But no one will make it. ally very obviously trying not to watch it. rethink it all. I think this is a very healthy N: Yeah yeah, lemme go [walks off to the practice for us. bathroom]. N: It is. You get to re-evaluate all the chil- [Jónsi flips through a porno mag, looking dren’s’ stories, all the moral codes... Ac- for the cover model, which looked entic- tually, I’m still unravelling, all the stuff ing. We find him, and he is pleasing to the you’ve been taught by straight people, eye. Nico returns.] can’t be trusted. Most people’s parents – at least in our generation – will be straight. On being a gay nerd Can you listen to their stories, honestly?

J: I really want to ask Nico one question. N: What’s the question, then? “Did you get any priest J: So, being gay, how has that affected your music making and your being a composer action?” or whatever? N: I mean, the short answer is not at all... J: Really? On everything getting darker N: ... and also all of the time. It’s kind of a combination. I love to think it has noth- J: I feel like being gay and being a musi- ing to do with anything, but the reasons cian helped me a lot actually. I think I I make music all stem to thinking about wouldn’t have made as much music as myself as an eleven year old singing in a I did if I weren’t gay; it really created an choir, thinking about my very lonely pre- urge to create to be fulfilled, to be happy. teen gay boy self, singing in a choir. And I remember the time until I J: Did you get any priest action? turned sixteen. It was such an innocent N: No, there was no priest action. But I and carefree time, I didn’t know anything. remember how excited I was to know mu- I had friends, for sure, but I only had shal- sic at that time. And I address my music low conversations until I met the first boy to that kid, always. Maybe slightly smarter in my life, my best friend who I fell in love a kid, and slightly more ecstatic. Still that with. He introduced me to the feeling of same one. I want my music always to be speaking heart to heart with someone, that rapturous, how I felt it then. to being really close and say exactly how J: Were you a nerd when you were young? you’re feeling. Before I had that, the con- N: I was such a nerd. versations weren’t deep. J: Really? In what way? Did you just stay at N: You had to keep it one level removed, so home and write songs all day? no one will find out. N: No, I got into music kind of late. But J: Of course, that changed my whole life I had oddball parents, and I read a lot. I perspective, everything got darker from much preferred reading to talking to that point, and more serious. More real. people. I think, for me at least, being gay More you had to think of. Before that, I imposes a guilty sort of loneliness on your was so carefree. I will always remember Monday, April 19th Tuesday, April 20th Tuesday, April 20th TO Sunday, April 25th Curiosity is Yellow, Red, Green The Birds in the Ugly Puddle and Blue – Opening Parade Dyndilyndi – The Price of Gifts The children at Geislabaugur open the show The birds in the ugly puddle. There is a big The festival opens with a big parade in the and Counterflow city centre, where fourth grade students are open area right behind the kindergarten that The contribution of the Reykjavík School of needs improvement. The children revive this invited to partake. Each school gets allocated Visual Art is a multi-layered arts event where a colour theme, expressed in various ways, in- area and activate guests’ curiosity. children, designers, artists, architects, danc- When: 10:30. cluding costumes, interesting headgear and ers, actors, authors and musicians contribute much more. The parade starts at the footbridge Interesting Perspective of all Ex- Where: Geislabaugur kindergarten, Kristni- hibitions in the Culture House threads from tails created by the children. Chil- braut 26. over Hringbraut and leads through Hljóm- dren inspire adults, artists inspire children and Exhibitions of childrens’ films in the film exhibi- skálagarður park to the Hallargarður park by so on. The exhibition is ongoing until May 2. tion ICELAND :: FILM in collaboration with the Fríkirkjuvegur. When: 11:00 – 17:00. Icelandic Film Centre. When: 10:00 – 11:30. Where: National Gallery of Iceland, Fríkirkju- When: 11:00 – 17:00. Where: Hljómskálagarður Park. vegur 7. Where: Þjóðmenningarhús, Hverfisgata 15.

That's Me There! Entrance Fee: Adults – 400 ISK. Ship Ahoy - A large portrait collage that kids in Vogaskóli Events at the Maritime Museum have been working on since autumn. Children's Sizes – Design for kids When: 12:00 – 16:00. An exhibition of selected design by Icelandic The Kids’ Lair Watch entertaining and educational films, Where: Vogaskóli. and international designers who have influ- Exhibition enced design for children as well as influenced draw and paint pictures and play with toys con- An exhibition of paintings by the children of the children's world or environment. The em- nected to the ocean and fishing. Stomp-Play Stjörnuland on the occasion of the 20th birth- phasis is on three dimentional design, toys and Ingunnarskóli runs a stomp-play between the Ocean Gear day of the Convention on the Rights of the furniture, particularily objects that are user huge water tanks in Grafarvogur. Everyone is Try dressing in ocean gear that the fishermen Child last November officially to be opened in friendly for children and designed with their welcome. of yore used to wear. For children between the Guðríðarkirkja. special needs and ideas in mind. A large part When: 09:00 – 11:00. ages of 7-12. When: 16:00. of the exhibition will be a designated workshop Where: The tanks in Grafarvogur. Old Fishermen Games Where: Guðríðarkirkja. where children and other guests create their Learn games played by Icelandic fishermen own designs on the walls of the museum as centuries past, including Fisherman, Icelandic Monday, April 19th well as an interactive room with toys such as Concert at Langholtskirkja wrestling and balancing arts. The school orchestra of Austurbær, the choir of to Sunday, April 25th wooden speedster or racer cars. Boat building workshop When: 12:00 – 17:00 (Closed on Tuesdays). Vogaskóli, the Choir School of Langholtskirkja Children participate in a boat building work- Where: Hafnarborg, Strandgata 34, and Graduale Futuri perform a concert at Experiment Land – Science shop under the guidance of the museum’s car- Hafnarfjörður. Langholtskirkja. The group, consisting of about penter Agnar Jónsson. comes Alive in Vatnsmýri 130 children, performs Eurovision songs and All are equal in Experiment Land; it is unnec- Traditional Dishes at the Museum various well-known pop standards. Curious Tiles essary to “know” anything specific, but it is When: 18:00. Everyone is welcome to contribute to a tile Coffee Shop important to be thirsty for knowledge and to Where: Langholtskirkja, Sólheimum 13. relief in the Breiðholt swimming-pool. Write Curious and traditional dishes served in the bring some courage and imagination. Guests interesting questions on tiles, which later will museum coffee shop. should preferably book an appointment in Ex- turn in to an art wall in the pool. When: 13:00 – 17:00. Wednesday, April 21st periment Land, so we can assure that the tools When: During opening-hours. Where: Víkin – Maritime Museum, Granda- can be used and that the instructors can tend Where: Breiðholt swimming-pool. garður 8. to guests. Please call the Nordic House (551- Young Háteigsskóli Opera Stu- Entrance fee: Adults 700 ISK. Free for chil- 7030) for bookings. dents Perform Our Earth Diving for Art dren under the age of 16. When: 09:00 – 17:00. Our Earth places the spotlight on environmen- Kindergarten Vesturborg reveals an exhibition tal concerns, such as increased pollution and Where: Nordic House, Sturlugata 5. Orienteering Race and Guided on the bottom of the Vesturbær swimming- the resulting change in weather patterns. The Tour for Children The Adventure Hall pool! students perform their own songs, then the When: During opening-hours. The National Museum of Iceland organises an A children’s culture house entitled The Adven- University of Reykjavík Gospel Group joins Where: Vesturbær swimming-pool, orienteering race and a special guided tour for ture Hall is open to everyone, emphasis placed them in singing Michael Jackson’s Earth Song. Hofsvallagata. kids. Both events in English and Icelandic. on creating a good atmosphere with art exhi- When: 11:00 & 13:00. When: 11:00 – 17:00. bitions, workshops, concerts, dances and the- Where: Hallgrímskirkja Church. Where: The National Museum of Iceland, atre pieces. The Chess Academy Suðurgata 41. When: 10:00 – 18:00. The Chess Academy and Kindergartens reveal Carnival at Björnslundur

Where: Fríkirkjuvegur 11. an exhibition related to chess. The inhabitants of Norðlingaholt neighbour- When: During opening-hours. Happy Days at Laugarnesskóli hood welcome everyone to join in on the fan- Where: Reykjavík town-hall. Six song and dance shows at Laugarnesskóli fare stretching from Norðlingaskóli to Björn- “The Phantom of the Opera” is the first in the slundur. Lots of fun activities, including wood Take a Look at Primary Schools In row. Light snacks included. whittling, boat carpentry, horseback riding, Grafarvogur! – Art on the Bus When: April 19. and 20. at 18:00 and April 21. and painting. and 23. at 16:30 and 18:30. Students from the primary schools in Grafar- Where: Norðlingaskóli and Björnslundur in Where: Laugarnesskóli, Kirkjuteigur 24. vogur exhibit their works on the buses. A vari- Norðlingaholt.

ety of pictures serve to make your bus ride a lot When: 9:30. more interesting. The Young and the Elderly in Gra- When: All day. farvogur Babbidibú - A Magician Flies Where: On bus lines 6, 24, 31 and 32. Exhibition of photographs at the entrance of The young national choir of pre-school kids the nursing home Eir presenting a collabora- perform classic kids’ songs by Olga Guðrún Take a Look at Kindergartens in tion of the kids of the kindergarten Brekkuborg Árnadóttir at Háskólabíó theatre. The children Grafarvogur! – Art on Shopping and elderly citizens. sing stories about a sick monster, and the sun When: All day. and the moon, which take turns watching over Carts Where: Eir nursing home, Hlíðarhúsum 7 us. And much more. Children from the kindergartens in Grafar- When: 14:30. Curiosity – Adventure Stories vogur exhibit their works in shopping carts in Where: Háskólabíó, Hagatorg. written by Primary School Stu- the supermarkets Hagkaup, Bónus and Nettó Monday April 19th, dents and Senior Citizens in Grafarvogur. A Scarf-clad Troll When: During opening-hours. Older citizens and primary school students Tue April 20th and Students from Laugarnes School drape Ás- Where: Hagkaup, Bónus and Nettó in have been collaborating on writing an original mundur Sveinsson's "Tröllkona" sculpture in Grafarvogur. Wed April 21st illustrated book of adventure stories to be pub- scarves. lished this fall. Guests can observe the kids and The Way of Curiosity Where: The Ásmundur Museum Garden, older citizens working together, and marvel at Fun with Teddies Sigtún. A collaboration between the Iceland Academy the sight. Students of the Grafarvogur School of Visual of the Arts and schools, day nurseries and kin- When: 10:00 – 16:00. Arts exhibit entertaining teddy pictures in the Divine Curious Birds Spöng ice cream parlour. The school organises dergartens in the Seljahverfi neighbourhood. Where: Adventure Hall, Fríkirkjuvegur 11. Kids from Stjörnuland open a show called Di- a teddy drawing competition in collaboration These associations become art galleries. vine Curious Birds at Guðríðarkirkja Church. with the ice cream parlour. One lucky partici- Where: Seljahverfi, Breiðholt. Curiosity – Who am I? After the opening an open house and the kids pator wins an ice cream party for the entire A collaboration between The Reykjavík Art offer treats. family. Light and Shade Museum and eight primary schools. The stu- When: 16:00 -18:00. When: During opening-hours Various light and shade workshops at the kin- dents make silhouettes in the spirit of master Where: Guðríðarkirkja, Kirkjustétt 8. Where: Ísbúðin okkar, Spöng 25. dergarten Sæborg offer unlimited possibilities. artist Erró, based on the theme “Curiosity – Different materials are used to create an enter- who am I?” The works will be combined into Time Flies, Trust Me! Under the Surface taining atmosphere where the child's curiosity one big mural, which will be on display in front A Musical by the Reykjavík female choir and Exhibition by Húsaskóli and Engjaskóli at the flourishes. of the F-hall in Hafnarhús. Kram house dance school. Grafarvogur pool. When: 10:00 – 11:30 and 13:00 – 14:30. When: 10:00 – 17:00, When: 18:00 & 20:00. When: During opening-hours. Where: Sæborg kindergarten, Starhagi 11. Thursday from 10:00 – 22:00. Where: Icelandic Opera House, Ingólfsstræti 2. Where: The Grafarvogur pool. Where: The Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnar- Entrance Fee: 1500 ISK. hús, Tryggvagata 17. Please notice this is not the complete www.barnamenningarhatid.is programme. Further information at the Tourist Information Centre, Aðalstræti 2. The 2010 Experimental Dance Writing and Art Workshop for International Children’s Day Finals Children and Adults The International Children’s Day features ex- School children compete in a dance competi- When: 14:00 – 17:00. tensive workshop programmes for children tion with no predefined genre boundaries. The Where: Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagötu 15. and teenagers to introduce to them the diverse teenagers themselves create their dance and cultures of the world. A day filled with fun for they are judged on originality and execution. everyone. Learn the Japanese art of Origami, When: 19:30 – 22:00. make native American Geronimo or learn how Where: Loftkastalinn, Seljavegi 2. to dance break and hip hop. Entrance Fee: 500 ISK. When: 13:00 –17:00. Faroese Culture Festival When: Gerðuberg, Gerðubergi 3-5. Faroese artists, Faroese food Kites and Birdhouses and Faroese folk dance. Students from the Ingunnarskóli school in Original and Intriguing When: 14:00 – 18:00. Leirdalur show off their kites and birdhouses. Concert performed by students from Where: Reykjavík Art the Allegro Suzuki Music School. When: 10:30 – 13:00. Hansel and Gretel Museum, Kjarvalsstaðir, Where: Leirdalur, Grafarholt. When: 13:30. Hólmfríður Jóhannesdóttir and Kristín R. Sig- Flókagata 5. Where: Tranavogur 5, second floor. urðardóttir perform children’s opera Hansel Music Programme in and Gretel opera with Julian M. Hewlett on Reykjavík big band Children's Fun at Mt. Esja Guðríðarkirkju Church piano. By Engelbert Humperdink. Marathon The Icelandic Travel Association invites kids 10:30 Geislabaugur kindergarten kids sing dur- When: 14:00. Where: Reykjavík City Hall. and their families on a hike in mountain Esja. ing Parents’ Morning Where: Neskirkja Church, Hagatorg. When: 13:00 - 18:00. Orienteering, outdoor theatre and hot choco- 12:10 Children from various elementary schools late. Bus transportation will be provided. sing farewell to the winter by singing bird song Exhibit Children’s Books Art for concert guests. Where: Bus departs from the Icelandic Travel Work by 20 students from Danish art school Association, Mörkinni 6 at 13:15. When: 10:30 & 12:10. Ole Wich. Open until the 29th of April. Where: Guðríðarkirkja, Kirkjustétt 8. When: 13:15 – 16:00. When: 12:00 – 17:00. Where: The Nordic House, Sturlugötu 5. Brass band Concert for Kids The First Day of The Workers’ Brass Ensemble’s annual concert Summer April 22nd Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum on for kids. Presented by actor Felix Bergsson. First Day of Summer When: 14:00. Neighbourhood Festivities A fun questionnaire and a orienteering race for Where: Icelandic Opera House, Ingólfsstræti A varied program for the whole family in neigh- the whole family. 2a. borhoods around the city, including a parade, Where: Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum, music and games such as fireball, soccer, cat Laugarnestangi 70. The North Pole - When: 14:00 -17:00 and mouse. Cultural and Arts Centre When: All day. Where: Reykjavík neighbourhoods. FRIday April 23RD Summer Celebration In celebration of the first day of summer, kids The 5th International Children’s are invited to participate in a varied pro- Books Festival gramme at the National Museum This year's theme is children’s book art. Lo- 13:00 –15:00 Art studio for kids of all ages cal and foreign authors explain their work and 13:00 – 16:00 Games from past ages there will also be a special programme for chil- 15:00 Möguleikhúsið theater performs ”Landið dren. vifra” for kids. When: 13:00 – 15:30. When: 13:00 – 16:00. Where: The Nordic House. The inventor Where: National Museum, Suðurgata 41. A dance performance for the whole family at The North Pole – Cultural and Arts Centre. Curious Birds When: 15:00 & 16:30 Ship Ahoy at the Maritime Mu- Students from Sæmundarskóli school exhibit seum their work at Sæmundarsel near Reynisvatn, Fun at the Labyrinth House Old fishermen games, Children’s play cor- including performing songs from Dimmalimm, The Labyrinth House presents a programme ner, boat building workshop and sea clothing showing their curious bird art and reciting po- of theatre, concerts, art exhibits, games and where kids aged 7-12 experience wearing the etry about birds. more. Kids find their way through the labyrinth gear seamen used to don in times of yore. When: 12:30 – 14.00. and participate in the various activities along the way. Children Invited Aboard Coast Where: Sæmundarsel by Reynisvatn. When: 14:00 & 17:15. Guard Vessel Óðinn Where: The North Pole – Cultural and Arts Children play orienteering games to get famil- Outdoor Art Centre, Bygggarðar 5, Seltjarnarnes. iar with coast guard vessel Óðinn Outdoor art work revealed in Gufunesbær When: April 22, 13:00 – 16:00 town. Where: Aboard Óðinn, Maritime Museum, When: 15:30 – 16:30 Sunday April 25th Grandagarður 8. Where: Gufunesbær, Gufunesvegi Entrance Fee: 700 ISK for adults, free for chil- Concert from the Book of Ballads dren under the age of 16. Groups of Five Fingers The Children’s Festival throws a closing con- Piano students of Allegro Suzuki Music School cert for the entire family with songs from the Come and Play Old Games perform on five grand pianos and five pianos. Book of Ballads. Reykjavík museum invites kids and adults to When: 17:00. When: 14:00. participate in exciting games played in Reyk- Where: Tónastöðin, Skipholti50 d. Where: Reykjavík Zoo and Family Park. javík in bygone times When: 13:00 -17:00. Saturday April 24th Fun at the Labyrinth House Where: Hallargarður garden, Fríkirkjuvegur 11. The Labyrinth House presents a programme of theatre, concerts, art exhibits, games and more. Open House at Iceland’s Dance Kids find their way through the labyrinth and par- Come and Play School - LÍ Exhibition on children's toys. ticipate in the various activities along the way. Everyone is welcome to watch dance classes When: 13:00 -17:00. When: 13:00 & 15:00. and students from the ages of 9 - 16 can par- Where: Reykjavík City Museum, Kistuhyl 4. Where: The North Pole – Cultural and Arts ticipate in dance workshops . Students study Centre, Bygggarðar 5, Seltjarnarnes. everything from classical dance and ballet to First day of Summer at the City modern dance. Guided Children’s Tour of the Na- Library Where: Listdansskóli Íslands, Engjateigi 1. Wolf Erlbruch Exhibit Opening. When: 10:00 – 13:30 & 14:00 – 15:15. tional Museum – IN ENGLISH The show, put on with the Goethe association, Art from the Reykjavik Art School on display features drawings by Wolf Erlbruch. in the square. When: 14:00 – 16:00. Children’s Book Award Where: National Museum, Suðurgata 41.

The best original children’s book will be award- ed, as well as the best Icelandic translation of a Watercolour and Postcard Work- children’s book. The winning books are chosen shop by kids aged 6-12. Kids aged 7 - 12 paint their own postcards and send them to children in the Faroe Islands. The Skrípó 2010 workshop is part of a Faroe Islands culture pro- gramme at Kjarvalsstaðir The Reykjavík City Library and the Reykjavik Kids Music, BARA PLATA Art School threw a comic strip contest this When: 14:00 – 17:00. Ísgerður Elfa performs a record release show for spring. The entries on exhibit at Reykjavik Where: Reykjavík Art Museum, Kjarvalsstaðir, her brand new children's record, BARA PLATA. Square, awards to the best one. Flókagata 5. When: 14:00.

Where: Fríkirkjan Church, Fríkirkjuvegi.

Please notice this is not the complete www.barnamenningarhatid.is programme. Further information at the Tourist Information Centre, Aðalstræti 2. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04 — 2010 DID YOU KNOW? That "a. rawlings" is actually just a clever pseudonym of everyone's favou- rite Canadian experimental poet - slash - Icelandophile, Angela Rawlings. 18 More on her at www.commutiny.wordpress.com

Music | Live Review Music | CD Reviews

Úlpa Ólafur Arnalds Jahilíya (2009) Found Songs (2009) ulpa olafurarnalds Self-indulgent and clichéd, but in a Sad sounds and melancholy to good, wholesome way. soothe the savage beast.

Úlpa have been lingering at the Found Songs is a project Ólafur periphery of the Icelandic music scene Arnalds undertook last year. It involved for long enough to make something writing, recording and mixing a track of a name for themselves, but I can’t every day for a week, then giving remember ever meeting anyone who them away for free via his Twitter really likes them or has even listened account. The result is a twenty minute to them, except for this one guy... mini album containing tracks that are although I am a bit of a shut-in. sparse and minimal, switching away from electronic percussion and with All that said, Úlpa’s latest effort is the piano and violin forming the central as darkly satisfying as all their work, soundscape. with a heavy Arabic twist to their guitar work and songwriting. This And such are the feelings of loss, does unfortunately make them sound pain and melancholy that pervade a bit too proggy for my taste, but through the album’s minor keys, what Úlpa’s laid-back professionalism and Arnalds seems to have done is make their richly textured soundscape, one a soundtrack for possibly the world’s glimpsed through a hazy murk of saddest film, if that existed—a film that flange, delay, reverbs and overdubs, would probably contain death, cancer, always make for an intriguing listen. incest, addiction and a bag of kittens Fashion, Eruption, Aggression, Peaches - Sindri Eldon being tossed into a river in the first Ladytron DJ's ten minutes. Admittedly, some people Bloodgroup may find the album a little cold and And A Whole Lotta Fuzz lacking in depth due to the shortness Sykur of the tracks. But given some time and NASA, March 20th 2010 the right setting, its soft tones have a Peaches storms NASA at the RFF notable calming effect. - Bob Cluness Hours after a volcanic fissure rup- wear and oversized matted wigs that lyrics in Serpentine, a song from her tured in Fimmvörðuháls on the ver- obscured their faces. newest album I Feel Cream, with a nal equinox, Canadian electro-glam Peaches oscillated between en- chorus that proved the motto of the star Peaches erupted onto NASA’s ticement and violence as she inter- night: “I don’t give a fuck if you maul stage in a fury of beats, costumes, acted with the audience. With swift me.” hair, and attitude—a suitable finale kicks, she swiped empty bottles off I stood and watched the grotes- Seven tracks of laconic resignation for the inaugural Reykjavík Fashion the stage in a spray of broken glass. query of the evening. A hard-working form Hudson Wayne’s third “full- Festival. Her performance pushed through (and arguably exhausted) performer length” and it stands firmly as the Peaches’ musical persona is ob- choreography and costume changes executed choreographed moments band’s most relaxed and confident offering yet, which is not to say it goes sessed with hair and costume; she (from towels to pussy lights, glam- and pushed or kicked any object or anywhere special or interesting. It has worn beards for media appear- rock necklaces to prosthetic breasts), person out of her way while booze- relies more on its mood and energy ances, displayed her own private props and prat falls—dangerous soaked beauties, bedecked in fine to create atmosphere than any kind curly fringe for CD covers and online enough with a drunken, infatuated suits and frocks, pulsed their young of effect or production gimmicks, interviews, and—well—her fourth mass surging towards the stage, ea- bodies and yelled infatuation unin- meaning that, for better or for worse, album title speaks for itself: Impeach ger to paw Peaches. telligently. My mind wandered to a it’s true nature is obvious: a simple My Bush. In videos such as Serpen- Playing into this visceral audience YouTube fan video for Peaches’ an- little bit of morose guitar drudgery, not tine and Talk to Me, hair adorns cos- desire and her own ideology, Peaches themic Fuck the Pain Away paired Hudson Wayne blessed with any highs or lows, just tumes as fringe, while in Tombstone delivered a series of interactive antics with Miss Piggy clips. Excess. Des- cruising through foggy skies with no Baby two women toy with sexual flir- (spray-spitting fake blood, pulling peration. Greed. Shock art of swine How Quick Is Your Fish? particular destination in mind. tation and frustration through acts of pretty girls onstage to dance, allow- in pearls. Puppet perversion, jerks - Sindri Eldon hair stroking and pulling. ing hungry hands to molest her gui- and gyrations, mouth full of sexually sykurtheband With Peaches’ attempts to un- tar) that amped up the crowd’s party explicit expletives. Music to come home drunk to tangle conventional attitudes to hair, drive. Whether drunk, bitter, sleepy, it was appropriate that she took the Peaches even crowd-surfed and euphoric, or volcanic, by the end of NASA stage dressed in boxing shoes walked all over the audience. To Peaches’ performance, we all found and a black-hair body suit with tower- prep the howling mass for this latter our release. ing head dress. Her second song, the stunt, she shouted, “Are you ready aforementioned Talk to Me, demand- for something special, Reykjavík? ed responses from two blonde go-go … Jesus walked on water; Peaches dancers who joined Peaches onstage, walks on you.” She chased this with a. rawlings Jói kjartans both silent dancers in black under- stripped-down beats and laissez-faire

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Probably the best pizza in town Open: Mondays-Saturdays 11:30-22:30 Sundays 16:00-22:00 The Reykjavík Grapevine Fancy learning more about the Icelandic Issue 04 — 2010 punk revolution? Seek out Friðrik's Þór feature length documentary on the subject, 19 Rokk í Reykjavík.

Dr. Gunni’s History Of Icelandic Rock | Part 17 Taste the Utangarðsmenn best of Dominate Iceland Iceland ...

Icelandic Gourmet Fiest Starts with a shot of the infamous Icelandic spirit Brennívín

Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce Icelandic sea-trout with peppers-salsa Lobster tails baked in garlic Pan-fried monkfish with lobster sauce The rhythm sec- on the Icelandic pop scene had roots in Grilled Icelandic lamb Samfaina tion of Utan- the sixties, like Björgvin Halldórsson, who Minke Whale with cranberry-sauce g a r ð s m e n n — had been the main pop star in Iceland for Magnús and most of the seventies, both with his solo Chocolate cake with berry compoté R ú n a r — c a m e albums, his Eagles-inspired band Brimkló and whipped cream from the tiny vil- and his 50s rock (a la Grease, Ameri- lage of Raufar- can Graffiti, et al) inspired trio HLH- höfn. Brothers flokkurinn. There was stagnation and an Mike and Danny Pollock were the gui- urgent need for a younger generation to tar players, two dudes with an Icelandic make a difference. Bubbi went straight mother and an American father. They and for the jugular on Utangarðsmenn’s first Bubbi had met at the box factory Kas- four track EP, released Oct 1st, 1980: “I’m sagerðin, where they all worked, and an a certified invalid / I listen to HLH and electric friendship had developed. Brimkló / I’m a certified idiot / allow my- Bubbi Morthens had been writing self to be ridiculed / support the market” music since 1974, when he was 17 years he sung on “Ha Ha Ha,” a reggae track, Our kitchen is open old. He was a migrant worker, going from subtitled “Shrimp-reggae.” The old guard village to village, working in fish factories, tried to be cool about the insult, but of to 23:30 on weekdays getting drunk and banging out original course many were deeply offended. RESTAURANT- BAR radical folk songs under the influence of Utangarðsmenn were in a hurry. The and 01:00 on weekends Vesturgata 3B | 101 Reykjavík Bob Dylan and Woody Guthrie. He played band’s only studio LP, Geislavirkir (Radio- Tel: 551 2344 | www.tapas.is his stuff for co-workers on his acoustic active), was released that November, and guitar, and had sometimes played gigs, has since become a classic. On it the band including ones for the Icelandic Folk Mu- runs through guano rock ditties such as sic Society. When Bubbi started working “Hiroshima”, with its catchy chorus: “You on his debut solo album in a small 8-track will all… You will all… You will all... DIE!!!” studio, the original idea was to make an (This was during the heights of cold war, acoustic Dylan-inspired album. He paid you see), but occasionally slows down to for the studio out of his own pocket, so chillier reggae tunes. Bubbi was all over Icelandic the album processed slowly. After meet- the media, commenting on various issues ing the Pollocks, Bubbi traded out Dylan and ridiculing the old stiffs. In 1980 he for punk rock, or as he called it, “guano became the biggest rock star Iceland had for foreigners rock”. seen since, well, since Björgvin Halldórs- Bubbi’s debut album, Ísbjarnarblús son eleven years earlier. All the attention (“Polar bear blues,” named after a noto- he got, his fierceness and coolness, it was rious Reykjavík fish factory, Ísbjörninn) impossible not to be fascinated. He was NEXT COURSES STARTING: was released on June 17, 1980. By that the horse that hauled the rock wagon. C Experienced teachers time, Utangarðsmenn had played a lot all All over the place, new bands were be- C Morning and over Iceland and more and more people ing forming and would come out of the MARCH 8th. APRIL 4th. evening classes had started taking notice. In June, Utan- woodworks in the following months. The C Downtown location ICELANDIC 1 ICELANDIC 2 garðsmenn supported none other than year 1981 was to become the freshest in INFORMATION Mon. Wed. and Thu. Mon. Wed. and Thu. C 3 levels The Clash in Reykjavík. Of course, this Icelandic rock history. More of that next & REGISTRATION: 19:00-20:30 17:15-18:45 CModest-sized groups, was an awesome show and there was time. max. 12 definitely something in the air, some wave [email protected] Tel.: 692 8818 ICELANDIC 2 APRIL 29th. of freshness hitting the Icelandic music - Dr. Gunni Mon. Wed. and Thu. scene. 11:30-13:30 ICELANDIC 1 Up to that time, all the main players By Dr. Gunni, based on his 2000 book Eru ekki PRICE: Mon. Wed. and Thu. allir í stuði? (Rock in Iceland). A revised update 60 CLASS HOURS ICELANDIC 3 09:00-11:00 Mon. Wed. and Thu. 1. Bubbi & Utangarðsmenn doing of the book is forthcoming in 2010. 24.000 ÍSKR. Ingólfsstræti 8, 101 Reykjavík, simi: 692 8818 their guano rock thing in 1980 09:00-11:00 [email protected] www.multi-kulti.org 2. Geislavirkir LP

Viking hotel Viking restaurants Viking live entertainment Viking Souveniers Tannvernd barna

For booking and further information: Tel.: (+354) 565-1213 [email protected] - www.vikingvillage.is Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04 — 2010 You might not have heard, but the awesome Batterí venue (which is commended in at least one of the below reviews) burned to the ground ear- lier this month. Mínus even lost a lot of their gear in the fire, which sucks HARD! On behalf of Reykjavík's community of music- lovers, Grapevine would like to say: Miss U, Batterí. We're sad to see you go. 20

Music | Live Review Music | Live Review Music | Live Review

Music to Watch Girls By Duplex #5 Mínus Return. Again. March 6th 2010 Mínus burst out of their Marshall stacks, the Batteríið crowd immediately erupts into an un- Biogen A vague, wisplike smattering of peo- hinged melee of a pit. As bodies pinball DLX/ATX ple were lounging around Batterýið off of each other and onto the stage, Batteríið when I walked in, having drunkenly Krummi goes through something of a decided that Sódóma’s opening act March 19th 2010 personal catharsis, where tortured wails for the night, Darke & Taylor, were a give way to clean singing and even a few waste of my time. With the first Bat- The bill tonight is an odd one. Mínus have growls. teríið band yet to start, I had briefly enlisted not a single metal or hardcore act But, as the fresh songs are introduced entertained the notion of waiting at to support them, hoping rather to draw a into set, the chaos subsides, perhaps due Bakkus, but the awful racket of what- diverse crowd with the aid of rock duet to physical burn out, or because most of ever crap they had booked for the eve- DLX/ATX and electro champion Biogen. the new material is somewhat ill suited for ning drove me off. As I walk in the door, the soundtrack spazzing the fuck out. I have to say I rather like Batteríið; is that of three AM at a Nasa filled with there’s something very pleasant about how low the stage is, barely a sweaty, neon, glowstick-touting revel- No chugga-chugga foot higher than the dance floor, forc- lers, all hopped up on goofballs. I assume The band’s promises of not including a Excellent Music For Clearly ing you to get close to the stage if you that the sounds are coming from a playl- single chugga-chugga riff on their up- wanted to see an act on a busy night. Enthralled People ist between bands setting up, but people coming album seem have been a song- Not a lot of bands in Iceland can fill a are watching the stage intently. Turns out writing mantra. Some of the new reeks venue, and anything to con the crowd Biogen's set is in full effect, and it is him of obnoxious pretence to the tune of a into coming closer to the stage seems Dear Kimono, jumping around on stage that the audi- miniature synthesizer, other tracks strike like a good thing to me. I’ve been pondering our relation- Kimono ence is focused on. dark ominous chords that grab desperate Not that this was at all likely to hap- ship, as it seems to have taken a Icelandic Opera house His music is downright insane. Pow- hold of the listener, as yet others dwell on pen during Tamarin/(Gunslinger)’s childish turn recently. Names have March 11th 2010 erful and progressive stuff yes, but at a tedious tribal drum patterns far too long. set (Incidentally, what’s with that been called. Threats were possibly far too early an hour. Better had he come Still, grating aural faux pas notwith- fucking name? Just when I thought made. But perhaps we were both rash for the first time after a lifetime on on after Mínus to lead the crowd danc- standing, Mínus fucking explode. Bjössi stupid punctuation bullshit in band in our comments, such is the passion diet coke. The sound of you work- ing deep into the drunken maw of the late mounts his drum stool between songs, names couldn’t piss me off more, some wise-ass thinks of shoving pa- we share. ing as a three-piece was pretty much night. egging the audience on with his head rentheses and a slash in for no ap- I hoped to clear the air by at- flawless, and before our brains could in the rafters while Bjarni swings his axe parent reason? What the fuck?). The tending your album release concert. process this shift, you moved straight King narcissist vs. the hardcore and Krummi goes all apoplectic with their room remained only tentatively occu- Things have been going well for you into Karen and Kente, which ended hopefuls lanky young bass player getting his rocks pied; in fact, some girls actually left. over the last few months haven´t sounding like a herd of rampant Although Mínus should long since ago off to the tune of the very same musical The music was pretty good. They they? Your album "Easy music for Mongol warriors. Mind you I did have lost their status as kings of the local masterpieces that echoed off of the walls opened with a fairly basic version of difficult people" (must not laugh. have to have my eyes closed at this metal and hardcore scene (via their lack of his teenage bedroom. the theme song from Escape From Nmmmpfn) was voted one the best moment as you did try your best to of quality output in recent years), it is via As the hour long plus set draws to New York, and the original stuff was albums of 2009 by a lot of people. induce epilepsy by beaming parts of the shortage of worthy successors that a dreaded close, the audience joins in nice, too. Playing beat-shifting bully Worthy praise indeed! your light show directly into my eyes. the band somewhat triumphantly takes chorus of demand for more, and true to rock that keeps things simple musi- Firstly, I commend you for your But this was a small irritation as you the stage tonight in front of a crowd. form, Mínus oblige. First with their big- cally but playful rhythmically, they choice of venue. The Icelandic Opera stormed through the rest of the al- Mínus is a band in constant develop- gest hit to date, The Long Face, and then have a remarkably dense and whole House, with its faded grandeur, old bum. ment—or progression, as the members showstopper Kolkrabbinn. That done, sound for a trio, although like pretty much every band in Reykjavík, they wooden seats and warm acoustics, And while all this was happening would have it. What once was a part hardcore kids and curious hipsters alike could stand to take a few singing les- seemed suited to your brooding pres- you looked relaxed, almost playful. of the birth of the metalcore genre fast walked away all sweaty and content. sons, or just get a singer. ence. And the fact they had a bell to Even Gylfi was regaling us with use- evolved into a groundbreaking noisecore The emptying room made the announce the start of the concert, less trivia, such as the first film ever unit of untold progressive measure, only Missed that awesome Mínus show at music all the more earnest and atmo- forcing the stragglers to stop gabbing played at the venue was “Ben Hur”, to be replaced, first with a criminally Batteríið? Not to worry - they're throw- spheric, with expensive lights toss- in the foyer, was a nice touch. which I know will come in handy at catchy rock incarnation, and ultimately ing another bash at Sódóma on Satur- ing wild shadows across the floor as You started the gig differently Pub quiz night at Grand Rokk. You with a mere shadow of its former glory day April 10th, backed by the legendary a single raven-haired girl, probably from the usual rock histrionics even invited your little friend Kari to through a record that aspired only to me- Godkrist. It's a must-see! a performer’s girlfriend (usually the with a string quartet playing a som- come on and play bass with you at the diocrity. drummer’s, in my experience), stood bre piece before your own Alex and end. Bless. With a fairly newfangled line-up, one alone in front of the stage taking pic- Bloodgroup's Hallur twisted their You ended the night with an en- yet to prove itself on record, Mínus still tures with her cellphone, beautifully sound into something that sounded core including old favourites such retain the extremely talented backbone decorated by the pulsating, spiralling like bloodthirsty aliens scuttling in as Japanese Policeman, and a stand- of string bender Bjarni and drum pound- lights. “The epitome of why guys join bands,” I scribbled nonsensically in a blackened forest. This sci-fi noise ing ovation. So Kimono, the night ing virtuoso Bjössi. After a long absence my notebook and wished I had mon- was complimented with four menac- belonged to you as heroes, but what from the stage, the band is debuting ey for another drink. ing bars of red lights that surrounded about us and the future? Oh, I know brand new songwriting efforts tonight, The rest of the night was interest- you on stage, like a barrier that would it´ll probably never be the same as it probably aiming to regain the critical ac- ing, I guess: Ólöf Arnalds was one of blow your head off if you tried to walk used to be, too much water under the claim they had until the creative flop of the more awkward things I’ve ever past it. bridge and all that. But at least we´ll their latest album, The Great Northern seen (one of her songs was from a But we were there to see you rock, have this night to think about while Whale Kill. Diet Coke ad), but she carried it well, Kimono, and you complied by shuf- we get on with the rest of our lives. King narcissist and raging front man and Weapons have branched into folk fling on stage and launching into Krummi enters the stage with promises territory with their new stuff, with Standing Wave, a slow death march Yours faithfully, of a career spanning set, and among the glorious results. on drums with mournful vocals from Bobby hardcore hopefuls a spark of anticipation But I could not concentrate. The Alex. It all sounded clear and sharp, ignites. Although not claiming encyclo- image of that solitary girl watching but I felt you were hiding something paedic knowledge of Mínus song titles, Tamarin/(Gunslinger) stayed with me, and after Weapons’ set, I stum- back from us. And of course you I find the track mix quite potent, yet, as bled out into the night looking for ro- were, weren´t you? You little tease. customary, a bit light on Jesus Christ mance, blowing the last of my spend- You gave us a minute´s baited si- Bobby era material in favour of popular ing money on a bag of dried fish in lence while you adjusted strings and classics off of the seminal Halldór Lax- a supermarket and eventually falling knobs. And then you threw your- ness album, which garnered heavy air- asleep in a chair at Næsti Bar. selves into Animal from the current play in its heyday. album, and the effect was, to put it mildly, unnerving. Listening to the Stand and deliver differences between the old and new Bob Cluness On stage, Mínus never fail to deliver. As BOGI BJARNASON Sindri Eldon ÆGIR BIRGISSON Brynjar Snær JÚLÍUS Sigurjónsson tracks was akin to trying neat vodka the first measures of musical mayhem »Free Classifieds: You can advertise in our classifieds for free at www.grapevine.is. Category like housing available, housing wanted, job openings, job needed. » www.grapevine.is

ICELAND :: FILM – Berlin – Copenhagen – Reykjavík MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – EDDAS AND SAGAS ICELANDERS – AN EXHIBITION OF PHOTOGRAPHS Icelandic Filmmaking 1904-2008 The Ancient Vellums on Display The spirit of the Icelandic nation in words and images.

EXHIBITIONS - GUIDED TOURS The Culture House – Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11 am and 5 pm CAFETERIA - CULTURE SHOP National Centre for Cultural Heritage Free guided tour of THE MEDIEVAL MANU- Hverfi sgata 15 · 101 Reykjavík (City Centre) SCRIPTS exhibition Mon and Fri at 3:30 pm. Tel: 545 1400 · www.thjodmenning.is

SUPER JEEP & SNOWMOBILE TOURS Mountaineers of Iceland • Skútuvogur 12E • 104 Reykjavík • Iceland Telephone: +354 580 9900 [email protected] • www.mountaineers.is • www. activity.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04 — 2010 What's on for AFÉS 2011? We have no idea, but we hear from See www.airiceland.is for schedules and reliable sources that the programme is already being put together. more action-packed day trips. 22

Travel | Ísafjörður Aldrei fór ég suður, for the first time again

Cheerful, Drunken Voices In Song And Celebration

Inexplicably, at midnight, the bar gets crowded. festival’s organiser, rock experimentalist Mugi- the sheer number of bodies crammed into that The orchestral pop act Hjaltalín was angelic, lac- There’s no clear reason why. The house lights son. Where Airwaves usually books a handful small space provides ample heat. Indeed, the ing simple pop melodies with strings and brass have come on and Reykjavik! have stopped play- of international bands, Ísafjörður’s festival is festival’s biggest drawback is the enthusiasm of and even an oboe, proving it’s possible to add a ing. By all traditional indications, this should be proudly, stubbornly local. It’s also charmingly its audience: much like that first night at Krú- string section to your band and not sound like a the end of the night. But the stairs leading down and deliberately amateurish. As Mugison said sin, audience members are more than willing to mimeograph of Arcade Fire. That their set ended into Krúsin are packed and the lobby area that over a lunch of fish stew before the festival consistently push, shove and bully their way into with a rapturous cover of Don’t Stop ’til You Get doubles as the club’s bar is straining to con- opened, “No one gets a sound check, everyone the building. Enough was merely a bonus. tain the sudden onrush of tall, giddy, grinning uses the same equipment, and there’s no hier- But there’s no good reason to linger on the Often, the bands were harder to pin down: blondes. archy in selecting the set times” (perhaps as if downside. More than anything, the festival Biggibix went from approximating the ’80s As it turns out, this encounter is the ideal pre- to prove his own point, he scheduled himself to speaks to a passionate and generation-defying nostalgia of the Killers to the ’80s nostalgia of amble to this year’s Aldrei fór ég suður (”I Never play early on the first night). love for and appreciation of Icelandic music. Daughtry. Still, it was harder to resist his last Went South”) festival, a two-day music event The festival’s relentless egalitarianism means Where many other festivals come off as a cel- number, the broad and soaring Situation (the re- that takes place in the small Icelandic village that the musical choices can often be baffling. ebration of song (still others, a celebration of corded version of which sells it short by a great of Ísafjörður, located in Iceland’s northernmost On Saturday night, a group called Yxna, com- commerce), the festival in Ísafjörður feels like deal). A small army of fellow friends and musi- fjords. The following 48 hours would be full of prised mostly of men in their sixties sporting a celebration of Iceland. Few of the bands have cians crowded on to the stage—somewhere be- loud drunks happily trying to cram themselves leather jackets and sunglasses, bashed out bar much ambition to be successful anywhere other tween 15 and 20 in all—locked arms and belted inside buildings too small to hold them, all in an blues to a mostly appreciative audience. Their than their homeland, so it seems petty to call out out the song’s giddy, shout-along chorus and, effort to get an earful of a few minutes of music. set concluded with a cover of I Can’t Help Falling the less-than-spectacular. one by one, the audience caught on and joined in Love With You, sung by Oscar nominated Ice- Especially when the festival offered more in. In the end, that’s what Aldrei fór ég suður is An art project of a town landic film director Friðrik Þór in a craggy voice than its share of gems: Ólöf Arnalds, always a about: a community raising cheerful, drunken The town of Ísafjörður is a visual miracle. Sur- that would make Tom Waits sound like Celine treasure live, deigned to break out the sublime voices in song and in celebration. rounded on all sides by massive, awe-inspiring Dion. lullaby Við og Við, a song she has yet to perform cliffs, the village feels like an art project: a bright- any time I’ve seen her play in the U.S. Reykjavík!, J. Edward Keyes is Editor-in-Chief for the awe- ly-coloured, economically-designed township Icelanders love to push and shove who are easily as thrilling as any post-punk band some eMusic site. He has been writing about nestled dead in the centre of gargantuan natural The festival boasted just as much bad music as the States has lately produced, hurtled through music since 1997 for publications including Roll- marvels. It’s as if someone had dropped it in us- good, but that’s somewhat beside the point: the their set, a bracing shot of spastic noise. ingStone.com, Newsday, the Village Voice and ing a crane. event’s the thing. Parents wheel out well-bun- Entertainment Weekly. And the Grapevine! Unlike Iceland Airwaves, Aldrei fór ég suður dled infants in strollers, dads hoist excitable four Quiet can be just as good focuses mainly on local and unknown bands. year-olds up on their shoulders, grandparents The quieter acts were often just as good: Lára Indeed, the biggest international “name” on the mill around by the hot dog stand. Though the fes- Rúnars offered the kind of cheery, chirpy indie J. Edward Keyes bill is Ólöf Arnalds, and the next biggest is the tival is held in an unheated cement warehouse, pop that would make fans of Lykke Li swoon. JULIA STAPLES

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GRÍMSEY

BOLUNGARVÍK DRANGAJÖKULL ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR SIGLUFJÖRÐUR HÚSAVÍK HRÍSEY VOPNAFJÖRÐUR Krafla

BLÖNDUÓS AKUREYRI

FLATEY EGILSSTAÐIR NESKAUPSTAÐUR

Hallormstaður

Always best price online. STYKKISHÓLMUR Kárahnjúkar SNÆFELLSJÖKULL

ILULISSAT Greenland

CONSTABLE POINT BORGARNES Various online-offers to all Air Iceland's destinations. Greenland KULUSUK Greenland Gullfoss AKRANES Geysir NUUK Greenland REYKJAVÍK NARSARSSUAQ SIA.IS FLU 47569 10/2009 Greenland KEFLAVÍK Jökullónið

Blue Lagoon FAROE ISLANDS ÍSLENSKA

www.airiceland.is VESTMANNAEYJAR [email protected] / tel. +354 570 3030 ContactContact AirAir IcelandIceland oror travel agentagent for for reservation. reservation The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04 — 2010 What a strange little word, snorkelling. Those who have any Trip provided by Dive.is. idea where it came from should e-mail us at [email protected] Booking: +(354) 663 2858 or check the website www.dive.is. 23

Travel | Snorkelling Snorkelling In Long Underwear And Thick Socks Grapevine goes under

School’s out, work’s off and Spring ling, would not be frozen. Although by North America on your right and Break has finally arrived. Like count- that didn’t mean the water would be Europe on your left. And when I spot- less others with the same ideas of es- warm—it just meant the water didn’t ted a narrow spot between the rocky cape, I fled the city for a nice snorkel- remain still enough to freeze. In fact, steeps, I stretched my fingers to Eur- ling destination. Only this was going we were going snorkelling in glacial asia and my fins to North America, to be nothing like that infamous image runoff from Langjökull glacier, which barely reaching. It’s a good thing I of Spring Break that perhaps comes to bubbles and tumbles its way under- didn’t wait another year or two before mind... ground for 50 km before filling into the deciding that I wanted to simultane- For starters, swap out the over- Silfra crevice and emptying into Lake ously be on two continents, because crowded and inebriated beach scene Þingvellir. Talk about purified water. the plates drift apart 1-2 cm every year. and insert a remote and pristine lava The water temperature hovers field, then substitute the warm tropi- around 2 to 4C year round, which Frozen suits cal ocean with frigid 4C glacial water, makes it a great diving and snorkelling At some point along the way I started and while you’re at it, forget about the destination, Quentin told us. How does wondering how long we were going to bikini and think: long woollen under- this make it a great snorkelling desti- be in the water. It’s not that it wasn’t in- wear, thick socks and a dry suit. Now nation? Well, the cold temperature credible, breathtaking, and awesome. you’re ready for snorkelling in Iceland. makes for extremely clear water, which It's just that it started to get pretty cold provides high visibility for divers and while floating motionlessly on the sur- Úfff! snorkelers. It also should be noted that face. Luckily, just as my thoughts were The adventure began bright and early at Silfra, you’re swimming over the being overtaken by the cold, Quentin from Reykjavík’s central bus station, Mid-Atlantic Ridge between the North popped up out of the now choppy water where our friendly guide from Dive.is, American and Eurasian continental and said this was the last stretch before Quentin, picked us up and proceeded plates. a warm cup of coffee. to take us to our destination: Þingvellir We climbed up on to the icy moss National Park. Þingvellir is a popular Like watching a rhino give covered lava rocks and took our fins destination and a must-see for many birth to Ace Ventura off. On the short walk back to the van, reasons. It’s the meeting site of Eu- On to the most strenuous part of the the water on our suits and mitts froze. rope’s oldest parliament established in trip: gearing up. Putting on our long Yes, it was cold. But, when we got back 930AD. It’s home to Iceland’s largest underwear, thick socks, and the warm into the car, my brain started working natural lake. And, it’s one of only two jumpsuit provided by Dive.is proved no again. I thought about what we had just places on Earth where the effects of the problem. But, then came the dry suit, done. We had snorkelled in Iceland on continental drift can be observed. the hood, and the mittens. I’ll just say a frosty April morning. We had snor- As we drove out of the city, we that watching the others squeeze their kelled in long underwear and thick passed a billboard reading 3C. Úfff! heads and hands through the tight socks and, most remarkable of all, we It was going to be undeniably cold holes of the dry suit was like watching had snorkelled between two continents out there. This was confirmed a short a rhino give birth to Ace Ventura, Pet above some of the youngest rocks on while later, as the van climbed over a Detective. Earth. small hill and a gorgeous view of a fro- After yanking the hood over our This was one Spring Break snorkel- zen Lake Þingvellir opened up before heads and helping each other put on ling trip to remember. And I am will- us. Yes, frozen! our mitts, we grabbed our goggles and ing to wager that a number of Spring Quentin quickly reassured us that fins and headed to the water. Fearing Breakers who went to Cabo or Cancun Silfra, where we were going snorkel- the suit would somehow fail to keep don’t have any memories of theirs! me dry, I cautiously lowered myself in as the water pushed against my suited self. The suit did its job. Lo and behold: before me appeared a dreamy blue wa- terscape enclosed by jagged walls of crumbling rocks. I said the hard work was over be- fore we got into the water. And it was. The glacial current simply carries you along, leaving you only to stare in awe Anna Andersen at the deep majestic blue water encased Tobias Klose – DIVE.IS

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GRÍMSEY

BOLUNGARVÍK DRANGAJÖKULL ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR SIGLUFJÖRÐUR HÚSAVÍK HRÍSEY VOPNAFJÖRÐUR Krafla

BLÖNDUÓS AKUREYRI

FLATEY EGILSSTAÐIR NESKAUPSTAÐUR

Hallormstaður

Always best price online. STYKKISHÓLMUR Kárahnjúkar SNÆFELLSJÖKULL

ILULISSAT Greenland

CONSTABLE POINT BORGARNES Various online-offers to all Air Iceland's destinations. Greenland KULUSUK Greenland Gullfoss AKRANES Geysir NUUK Greenland REYKJAVÍK NARSARSSUAQ SIA.IS FLU 47569 10/2009 Greenland KEFLAVÍK Jökullónið

Blue Lagoon FAROE ISLANDS ÍSLENSKA

www.airiceland.is VESTMANNAEYJAR [email protected] / tel. +354 570 3030 ContactContact AirAir IcelandIceland oror travel agentagent for for reservation. reservation The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04 — 2010 Remember any songs about Iceland that we forgot? There is no must in art because art is free. Write us about it (nb - songs by Icelanders don't really count)! - Wassily Kandinsky 24

Music | Lyrics Opinion | Graffiti The Iceland Of My Heart Country as metaphor

Lately, we hear a lot about Dubai being the Iceland of the desert or Greece being this year’s Iceland. Iceland, however, is more than just a metaphor for economic stupidity. Songwriters have long used Iceland to illustrate a variety of emotions and events. None of them good.

She was the hooker down in San Antonio And although her heart was somewhere in Iceland Commanding the dawn patrol Blessed in this blood and stitched in these bones The war nurse left us all” Metaphor: A song from a bootleg of un- released material, which includes lines The Sinking of the Reuben that will later appear on his debut. Bruce I’m on an Island High and Low James here mixes the two “Iceland metaphors,” Performer: The Kinks Performer: Woody Guthrie the cruelty of war and the lack of love. It Year: 1965 If the purpose of art is to inspire, where is all that inspiration to be found in Year: 1942 is, however, unclear whether the titular Iceland reference: Reykjavík? Certainly not in its art galleries. Wandering around the streets of the Iceland reference: character’s Icelandic heart is better repre- “I'm on an island and I've got nowhere to city, it struck me that the best works of art in the city live on its streets. “One hundred men went down to their sented by the Virgin Mary or the San Anto- swim nio hooker. The dawn patrol is still active in Oh what a mood I am in dark and watery graves, Reykjavík is a city that keeps it se- Laufásvegur. Like strange wild flow- When that good ship went down only Iceland and can be seen late on Saturday I'm on an island crets. All the best things about it are ers, it sprouts where you least expect forty-four were saved. evenings/early Sunday mornings through- I'm on an island since my girl left me be- T'was the last of October, they save the out the country. hind hidden away off the beaten path. The it and it can just as tenaciously return forty-four, She said that I'm not her kind best food here is not in the fine res- if you scrape it off. Evil clowns in From the dark, icy waters of that cold I'm on an island” taurants, it is in the carts and little pink and green, silly grey cats with Iceland shore.” Metaphor: The Kinks played eight suc- shacks. The best book deals are in attitudes, sprinting skeletons, devi- Metaphor: While both geographically cessive concerts in Austurbæjarbíó in the flea market and small book- ant fish, they are all out there and and historically accurate in the case of September 1965. A couple of months later, stores, not in the obvious bookshops. more. All you have to do is stop and Kinks Kontroversy came out, featuring this the first US ship lost during WWII, there’s And so it is with all the best pieces look. A menagerie exploding in Tech- song supposedly written in Reykjavík. The something particularly tragic about being of art in Reykjavík too. You have to nicolor somewhere near you. drowned off the coast of Iceland. Some metaphor here is similar to the one em- pry those secrets out or blunder into Wait a second, you might say, this versions say “cold, icy shore,” but Iceland ployed by Frank Sinatra, ‘The Island’ (Ice- sounds more to the point. The shores are Mareld land) as loneliness. In the next verse, the them blindly. The way I found myself is just graffiti isn’t it? The work of as cold as the sea. And so, no doubt, are Performer: Lars Winnerbäck island becomes tolerable, if only the girl suddenly staring at Einar Jónsson´s nameless vandals who deface build- the people. Year: 2004 were there with him: “But there is nowhere mind-altering sculpture "Outlaws", ings with their meaningless carica- Iceland reference: else on Earth I'd rather be if my long lost in a forgotten corner off a busy high- tures. How can something like this “Ner faller löven little girl was here with me.” way with not a sign to mark it as one be profound, or even in any way och bladen blir mull of this island’s greatest works of art. interesting? Well, think about that Jag kanske åker till Island I guess that’s Reykjavík for you. First question when you stumble across Jag kanske super mig full exhibited in 1901, "Outlaws" marked the thought-provoking phrase "If..." Jag är för fattig för London Jag är för tyst för LA Einar's radical departure from no- painted on a humble hydrant. Or Det finns en anda i Dublin tions of sculpture at the time, to when you see Jacques Cousteau in a men den är skadlig för mig” blaze his own independent path. To- diving helmet waving a flag under My Heart Stood Still Metaphor: The singer proclaims his in- day though, modern art in Reykjavík water on the side of the French em- Performer: Frank Sinatra tention to leave his native Sweden before seems not to be blazing very much at bassy. The most enjoyable, hilarious Year: 1963 the end of summer. He is too broke for Immigrant Song all. and intelligent paintings in Reykja- Iceland reference: London, too silent for LA. There is spirit in Performer: Led Zeppelin One might imagine that a land vík I’ve seen have been on the walls “I laughed at sweethearts I met at schools Dublin, but one not very good for you. He Year: 1970 this grand would inspire equally of buildings. All indiscreet hearts seemed romantic might go to Iceland to get drunk. Well, at Iceland reference: grand works of art. Instead, grey Maybe all of this just says some- fools least it’s good for something. Skål. “A-ah-ahh-ah, ah-ah-ahh-ah, A house in Iceland was my domain soulless concrete monstrosities erupt thing about my mental (im)maturity. We come from the land of the ice and I saw your eyes, now castles rise in Spain” out of the ground and tepid paintings Or maybe I just have a soft corner for snow Metaphor: Pretty obvious here. Iceland is line the walls of the galleries. Intel- people who are unseen, unheard, yet from the midnight sun where the hot cynicism and loneliness, but thankfully it is lectually profound they may be, high manage to brighten up drab corners springs blow. just a state of mind. It only takes love to re- The hammer of the gods will drive our culture even, but they are no fun at of the world without expecting rec- move you to Spain where all is bliss. All you ships to new lands all. Indeed, the most enjoyable paint- ognition and cocktail receptions for have to do is believe, and there will be no To fight the horde and sing and cry, Val- ings in the National Gallery are the their art. Whatever it is, I’ll take that more Reykjavík. Originally composed for halla, I am coming” ones in the kids' workshop in the witty cartoon instead of a pretentious the 1927 musical “A Connecticut Yankee,” Metaphor: basement. In this land of weird mid- painting any day. Freedom, after all, where the hero dreams himself to King The usual. Iceland as exotic paradise much Arthur’s Court. Yes, everything is possible. Yellow Submarine night colours and vibrant volcanic is the ability to say "to hell with that". Performer: The Beatles beloved of shouting longhaired men with hues, are dozens of canvases covered And nothing quite says "to hell with Year: 1966 bare chests. The first two lines sound as if with inane lettered scrawls really the the high brow" better than a simple lifted from a tourist brochure, until Viking Iceland reference: best you can do? Really, Reykjavík? scrawl on an abandoned wall. “Hljómsveitin er íslensk” imagery takes over. The last two lines are quite apt today: ”So now you better stop Where is all that colour, where is all Metaphor: It is a little known fact that that life? Arnar Vuþa is not an art critic. He parts of the Magical Mystery Tour movie and rebuild all your ruins / For peace and Remember, I said this city has se- wouldn’t know a masterpiece if it were shot in Iceland. It is even less noticed trust can win the day despite of all you're that somewhere around 1.45 of Yellow Sub- losing.” crets. Well, if you keep an open mind walked up to him and hit him on the marine, you can quite distinctly hear some- and follow your feet, it turns out head, shouting, “I’m a masterpiece”. one say: “The band is Icelandic.” And in Ice- you blunder right into it. Again and Any artists who feel their work has been War Nurse landic at that. Could it be that the Beatles, again. Everywhere. It is all over that slighted should know that he intends to Performer: Bruce Springsteen like James Bond, are actually Icelandic? Or abandoned plot off Skólavörðustígur, leave the country as soon as he finishes Year: 1972 did they merely reuse old “Thor’s Hammer” it is half a street away as you stroll that hotdog. Iceland reference: tapes and forget to delete them first. What down Laugavegur, it’s splattered on “She was the reincarnation of the virgin can it all mean? Iceland on the brain, or forgotten walls by the seafront, it is ARNAR VUÞA Mary something that got in there? Valur Gunnarsson on the walls of official buildings by JÓI KJARTANS

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Aðalstræti 2 • 101 Reykjavík • Tel +354 590 1550 • [email protected] www.visitreykjavik.is Bergstaðastræti 37 s. 552 5700 [email protected] www.holt.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Wanna get hurt? Issue 04 — 2010 Find these guys on Facebook under “Rugby félag Íslands (Icelandic Rugby Team)” or email James at [email protected]. Training takes place at Sporthúsið, which is located at 25 Dalsmári 9-11, in Kópavogur, every Wednesday at 19:45.

Sports | Rugby

out about us, more are coming along to play and more word is spreading, Raiders With Oval Balls! both locally and internationally that Rugby arrives in Iceland with a thud rugby is being played in Iceland. RR RFC is just the start. We envision that “Keep moving! Use the ball with both questions to one of the club's found- we would be one part of a Reykjavik hands. Don’t throw it away like that. ers, James Broad. Rugby league in the future, which NEXT GROUP UP NOW!!” could eventually become a nation- A large man with an impressive beard Tell us about the origins of the wide Icelandic League. is giving out instructions, but I’m not Reykjavik Raiders. How did it all I would love to see a National Team hearing very well. Perhaps it’s due to begin? in the not too distant future. It is disap- the fact that my lungs are on fire and I moved to Reykjavik in 2009 and as pointing to tell you that Norway, Fin- parts of my body that even my mother I have been addicted to rugby since I land, Sweden and Denmark all play, didn’t know existed are being strained was nine years old, I was determined to and play each other regularly as part and exercised to their limits. carry on playing here. I found a Face- of a Nordic Cup. But what better mo- The venue is the Sporthúsið com- book group called Rugbyfélag Íslands, tivation for us? I have every reason to plex in Kópavogur and the occasion started by Stefán Smári Kristinnsson, believe that Iceland could be a very is a training session with the newly an Icelander who had come to love the strong rugby-playing nation. The po- formed Reykjavik Raiders Rugby Foot- game after time he had spent in Italy tential shown by the Icelanders at our ball Club. Myself and 25 other players and Scotland. He called a meeting with sessions has been extremely encour- are being put through our paces with a a few others who felt the same way as aging. succession of drills and games. There us, we had a few beers, swapped life are also several Icelanders attending stories and the first training session OK, I’m an Icelander who has never their first ever session, this being the was arranged... heard of this sport of Rugby. Sell it first time they’ve ever touched an oval to me, why I would be interested in ball. And they seem to be really enjoy- What is your current setup? What playing this sport? Or my kids play- ing it as well. are you offering people who turn ing it, for that matter? Despite being played in 115 coun- up to train? I think the game of rugby matches tries over the world, rugby seems to We play every Wednesday evening at the Viking spirit perfectly. It’s a very have hit a blind spot in Iceland, the Sporthúsið, who have been very en- physical contact sport played on the preferred team sports being handball thusiastic supporters of our mission. grass for a thoroughly exhausting and and football. But this is a situation The training group has gone from a incredibly rewarding 80 minutes. It the Reykjavik Raiders are hoping to team of nine at our first meeting, to be- has the hand skills and physicality of change. tween 20 and 30 guys each week. handball, only times ten! If you play When I eventually recovered my We offer anybody keen to try the handball, if you like the physical nature breath, I managed to pose a couple of sport the opportunity to join us and of that game, the hand-skills and the get involved in setting up something speed, then you will love rugby that has never happened in Iceland And we play rugby to the safest before. You will get coaching, advice levels possible. Kids are not thrown and extremely friendly and enthusi- into full physical contact until they are astic support from a group of guys developed enough to use it or take it. amongst who are rugby players who There is also a non-contact version have many years of experience playing that we play called touch rugby, which professionally and semi-professionally is played from a young age and utilises abroad, in international leagues and all the skills, fitness and tactics of rug- tournaments. by, without the hard tackling.

What do you envision the future holds for RR RFC? Could an Icelan- dic national team be far off, even? Bob Cluness Each week, more people are finding JÓI KJARTANS A Very Special Scandinavian Welcome

Laugavegur 24 | 101 Reykjavík | Tel: +354 578 4888 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 04 — 2010 DID YOU KNOW? Our film critic Eyjólfur Eyvindarson also releases Icelandic hip hop under the name of Sesar A. He is often referred to as "The Grandfather of Icelandic Hip Hop". Check him out and learn why. 26

Movies | Review News | Marc Vincenz Kreppa in the Dagur Kári’s The Good Heart examined Different Hearts International Eye: March Strip clubs, spies, crazy money, and other eruptions Last month the London Times contem- plated volcanic fallout in 2010 due to the inevitable eruption of Katla; Alþingi agreed to rent out Keflavík’s former NATO base to a privately-owned military company (strangely, this news received little attention in the international media); and President Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson suggested flogging Iceland’s NATO ma- rine facilities as a way station (for when the polar ice cap has melted through). Newsweek recently confirmed China’s interested in taking over the abandoned NATO naval base (which perhaps explains why Iceland was not invited to the recent Arctic countries meeting in Canada?). What else is up for grabs? Well, cer- tainly no strip clubs—that business model is now firmly a thing of the past. On March 25, the Guardian hailed Ice- land as the world’s most feminist country. As of July 1, it is illegal for any business to profit from the nudity of employees. This makes Iceland the first country in the world to ban stripping for “feminist reasons”. Kolbrún Halldórsdóttir, former Minister for the Environment, was quoted as saying: “I guess the men of Iceland will just have to get used to the idea that women are not for sale.” On March 31, following the lead of Fitch Ratings, Standard & Poor’s (S&P) lowered Iceland’s credit rating The Good Heart is Dagur Kári’s as different as could be: Lucas, the place to go. rector. The Good Heart is definitely to BBB/A-3, which for all intents and third feature film after Dark Horse young homeless boy, and Jacques, That is a good example of the recommended for those who want to purposes is pretty much a junk rating. (Voksne Mennesker, 2005) and Noi the old bad tempered bar owner. main characters’ huge contrast. Lu- experience the fruits of the constant- S&P stated to Businessweek that “po- The Albino (Nói Albínói, 2003). In They meet at the hospital after Lucas cas is young and early on his path in ly growing Icelandic film scene. tentially prolonged application of foreign his films, the story usually revolves tries to commit suicide and Jacques life and wants to help others. Jacques exchange controls will restrict Iceland’s around a few main characters, their is recovering from his fifth heart at- is old and close to the end of his path monetary and fiscal flexibility and invest- way of connecting to other people tack. After Lucas leaves the hospital, and avoids helping others and trusts ment prospects.” Meaning that Iceland and finding people who understand Jacques seeks him out and takes him no one. This is underlined when will have to do some serious mind- them. A good example is Noi, where under his wing. He then starts to Jacques says to Lucas that he is not bending in order to generate any possible a very particular boy in a small fish- teach him how to run his bar with here to save people, but to destroy foreign currency earnings. ing village creates a world of his own his philosophy of life. them. One could also say that, in a Nothing new on that front, but let’s as a reaction to how a few people un- One might say that the bar be- way, that is how the world works. have another look at the numbers as laid derstand him or give him a chance to comes the two main characters’ en- In The Good Heart, the char- out by Bloomsberg: be himself. tire existence, and those that enter acters’ world takes place in small Iceland has to finance a 230 billion Dagur Kári developed this theme the bar are the few people who en- spaces, a confined universe. This ISK deficit in 2010. It is expected that 190 further in Dark Horse, which was ter their lives. Jacques only allows gives them a feeling of comfort and billion will be generated domestically by made with Danish actors and shot in customers he knows and trusts into security, like with Nói in his cellar, selling government debt. Another 40 bil- Danish. Now with his new film, an the bar. His heart has been hurt which also keeps him safe in the lion will be come out of the central bank’s English-language one featuring ac- and the bar is a place where he can tragic events at the end of the film. deposits. A 1 billion- euro ($1.3 billion) tors who have made a career in the take total control of his environment Although Dagur Kári´s three films bond matures, and should be paid up by US, he takes a new approach to this and where he feels safe. The biggest have similarities they are quite dif- December 2011. theme. threat to him is when the girl April ferent from each other and therefore So, have the powers that be tightened The two main characters are men enters the bar. Lucas, being kind and cannot be considered as a trilogy but their belts and donned their thinking who each in their own way have come good hearted, can’t deny her when more of a process and development Eyjólfur Eyvindarson caps? Well, you be the judge. to an existential end station. They are she asks for help and has no other of a young and interesting film di- Even if stripping is now illegal, it ap- pears Alþingi seems to think it is above the law as far as the sale of whale meat is Poetry | Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl concerned. On March 18, The Internation- al Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) stated that Iceland is illegally selling whale meat Canon Fodder to EU countries, including Denmark and I regularly read poetry to Aram, my infant District Magistrate in Kópavogur) or Kristín Svava Tó- serious canonical mistake—“agara gagara” etcetera! Latvia. Talking about spurious activities, the Guardian, the Washington Times son. He doesn’t “get it,” of course—no masdóttir’s Klof vega menn (Crotches Kill Men)). So In this process we might also see about finding and Salon Magazine all commented on matter how I try to explain that he’s really we might have to keep Matthías Jochumsson’s Song some more female poets. Reading anthologies one Wikileaks’ newest: namely the leak of US not supposed to understand it but rather of Praise—“Oh, God of our Country, Country of our might think that women hardly ever wrote poetry diplomatic documents including the pro- “sense it.” But he seems to like the rhythms of it any- God”—despite the fact that I wouldn’t read the hor- back in the days—but to the contrary, poetry was very files of Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir and Össur ways (and/or his father’s theatrical performance), so rendous thing to my son if it’d spawn peace on earth much a feminine sport and indeed most poets were Skarphéðinsson. Jóhanna immediately I keep at it. I mostly read from this famous little blue (well, okay, maybe then, but I want it in writing!). women. Granted, not all of it got written down, and called for a visit from Sam Watson, US book called Skólaljóð (School Poetry), which contains But how about Bjarni Thorarensen? Hannes Haf- collecting the poetry of Icelandic women through- charge d’affaires, presumably to give him all the national classics from Hallgrímur Pétursson stein? Do we really need this? How about just cutting out the centuries is hardly unproblematic. But it is, a right old spanking. to Steinn Steinarr—the Icelandic poetry canon as it the nationalism and the godliness in its entirety? I, truly and utterly, a cultural heritage (mostly) ignored Wikileaks also claim they have been was compiled in the middle of the last century. And for one, believe in the power of poetry, the power of (while we spend years debating whether or not sac- the victim of harassment by the Pentagon as I find myself skipping more or less every poem that words, of language—and I don’t think this drivel is rosanct male poet Jónas Hallgrímsson had syphilis, and their friends in Iceland. Wikileaks’ deals with God, Christ or Country (about two thirds doing us any good, nor has it ever. It rots your mind. and whether saying so aloud is decent or not). And editor Julian Assange suggested that of the book), in an attempt not to inadvertently indoc- If one were to actually reduce Skólaljóð in this if there’s anything that gives Icelandic authorities a he was being followed by the CIA from Iceland to a recent conference in Sweden. trinate my boy as a Christian nationalist, I become manner, what you’d be left with is nature and a few hardon, it’s the words “cultural heritage” (attention, At the same time he pointed out that strangely aware of how Icelanders have really never verses of Steinarr’s “The Time and the Water”. Now, scholars: free grant money!) the local police was holding one of his taken the trouble to properly reevaluate their canon. nature is fine and all (and knocking Steinarr is a veri- A cultural heritage is not an impermeable fact and Icelandic volunteers in custody. Surely There are a couple of newer books, where some old- table crime), but nature and more nature might even- it has never been. What we consider important to our he’s not intimating that the Icelandic ies have been skipped, and a few newbies have been tually get a little monotonous, believe it or not. So how “national image” (a dubious and difficult concept in police are colluding with the CIA? "We granted access—but mostly it’s the same ol’ same ol’. about instead of us just picking out what isn’t popular and of itself), or to ourselves privately—what we make have discovered half a dozen attempts at The same sombre tones, the same sombre attitudes anymore and inserting a few innocent examples from available so that I can read it to Aram—isn’t etched in covert surveillance in Reykjavik both by (and when I say newbies, I mean mostly very old new- newer poets (which seems to have been the method stone. It’s written on paper and it can and should be native English speakers and Icelanders. bies, most of whom are dead already). of composition for anthologies thus far), we enter the reevaluated every other year or so. A cultural heritage On the occasions where these individuals Some things are probably too sacrosanct. It’d be archives and start picking out new interesting exam- is a construction like any other, we define it—it is not were approached, they ran away,” noted hard, for instance, to rouse support for changing ples from the history of Icelandic poetry? Why, for in- an otherwordly, uncontrollable entity which controls Assange. the national anthem to something more up-to-date stance, is there so little of Æri-Tobbi to be found? He’s us—we control it. And so we should if, at all, we give a Oh, what a tangled web we weave. (I’d vote for Haukur Már Helgason’s Matarsiðir Sýs- hardly even mentioned in the five volume Bókmen- damn. Bet you can’t wait for the next round of Icesave negotiations. lumannsins í Kópavogi (The Dining Habits of the ntasaga Íslands (Iceland’s Literary History). This is a thethe bbestest selectionselection ooff mmusicusic

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STUFFED WITH STUFF ISSUE 04 YOUR FREE COPY Skólavörðustígur 10, 101 Reykjavík

Page 12: But the good news for you is that even if you’re growing up in a place where everyone is gay, it’s still fucking lonely and weird. Which I think is good. Nico Muhly bares all at The Leather Bar...

Page 12: It is so strong in everybody, everybody loves their instinct and follows it, but they get caught up in society, slowly you get caught up in this stampede of information and bullshit. You get caught up and your true self gets lost. ...as does Jónsi.

Page 22: The festival boasted just as much bad music as good, but that’s somewhat beside the point: the event’s the thing. Parents wheel out well-bundled infants in stroll- ers, dads hoist excitable four year-olds up on their shoulders, grandparents mill around by the hot dog stand. IAldrei fór ég suður continues to dazzle

Page 6: Being taken seriously as a strip- per is an uphill battle all over the world, and certainly in some cultures more than in others. It is perhaps not surprising that Ice- land’s strippers don’t have a for- mal union or spokesperson, con- sidering the increased stigma and risks that sex workers, who are also undocumented immigrants, face in coming out and publicly standing up for their rights. Is the case of feminism, gender politics, por- nography and human trafficking perhaps more complicated than some people like to think?

Page 8: In the weeks after the first fissure ripping open, the eruption has remained pretty small, but ex- tremely exciting. Grapevine’s volcanologist student friend Tour Operator James Ashworth gets excited. Like the rest of us.

Authorised by Icelandic Tourist Board

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