VOLUME 29, No. 5 {2015}
PERFETTO The fl awless skill of Italian winemakers TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE
FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA
VALLE D’AOSTA LOMBARDIA VENETO PIEMONTE EMILIA-ROMAGNA LIGURIA
TOSCANA MARCHE
UMBRIA
ABRUZZO LAZIO MOLISE
CAMPANIA PUGLIA
BASILICATA
SARDEGNA CALABRIA
SICILIA
Signature Team Éric Bertoldi Simon Gaudreault-Rouleau Julie Perreault Luc Rolland Justin Rouette Alain Smith Legend
RATINGS AGING POTENTIAL
ST Signature Team – out of 100 The aging potential of a wine is its potential lifespan in good cellaring RED WINE WA Wine Advocate (Robert Parker) – out of 100 DRINK NOW conditions. Note that it’s a simple O V Vinous (A. Galloni, S. Tanzer) – out of 100 U E R I T F R WS Wine Spectator – out of 100 suggestion tool; the year mentioned AV O U indicates the vintage’s peak. Of course, DRINK NOW WHITE WINE GR Gambero Rosso – Tre Bicchieri* certain wines may be to your liking THE SIGNATURE TEAM’S OR KEEP UNTIL JR Jancis Robinson – out of 20 long before the year mentioned. CURRENT FAVOURITES YEAR INDICATED JS James Suckling – out of 100 SPARKLING WINE WFW The World of Fine Wine – out of 20 DRINK DURING THE 000 QUANTITY OF SAQ CODE INDICATED PERIOD * Excellent wines in their respective categories. BOTTLES AVAILABLE 00000000 OF MATURITY THE FLAWLESS SKILL OF ITALIAN WINEMAKERS
Italian wines—prestigious and illustrious—rank among the best known and most appreciated in the world. They’re recognized everywhere for their history and character. This culturally rich and fi ery country, renowned for its majestic sceneries and its warm and welcoming communities, off ers a selection of Grands Crus that will never cease to impress—going so far as to inspire pure perfection. Italy’s diversity shines around the world through its 20 highly distinct regions and unique native grape varieties. It’s thanks to this precious and judicious blend of tradition and modernity that Italian wines stand out from the rest.
This Courrier vinicole pays homage to the vineyards of Piedmont, Tuscany, Veneto and many other discrete yet equally rich regions and presents the relentless work and impeccable skills of producers like Köfererhof, Ar.Pe.Pe., Le Macchiole, Valentini, Emidio Pepe, Palari and Marco de Bartoli.
The members of the Signature Team present you the best of Italy’s wine, from Barolo to Barbaresco, Amarone to Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino to Bolgheri—a hand-picked selection of white and sparkling wines as well as rare and exclusive reds that are the source of Italy’s impressive reputation.
ORDER FROM Friday, November 6, at noon. commande.saq.com
Find out how to order as well as consult the complete collection on pages 47 and 48.
PERFETTO 1 ITALIA
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Trentino-Alto Adige Veneto Abruzzo
Köfererhof ...... 5 Zýmē ...... 18 Masciarelli ...... 36
Tramin ...... 6 Gini ...... 19 Valentini ...... 37
Brigaldara ...... 19 Emidio Pepe ...... 37 Lombardia Romano Dal Forno ...... 19 Torre dei Beati ...... 38 Trabucchi d’Illasi ...... 20 Bellavista ...... 7 Masi ...... 20 Ca’ del Bosco ...... 7 Umbria Giuseppe Quintarelli ...... 21 Ar.Pe.Pe...... 8 Lamborghini ...... 38 Vignalta ...... 22
Piemonte Lazio Toscana Elio Altare ...... 9 Falesco ...... 38 Argiano ...... 23 Antoniolo ...... 9 Barone Ricasoli ...... 23 Cascina La Barbatella ...... 10 Ca’ Marcanda ...... 23 Campania Domenico Clerico ...... 10 Camigliano ...... 24 Alois...... 39 Aldo Conterno ...... 11 Castellare di Castellina ...... 24 Colli di Lapio ...... 40 Gaja ...... 11 Castelli del Grevepesa ...... 25 Galardi ...... 41 Bruno Giacosa ...... 13 Castello di Bossi ...... 25 Montevetrano ...... 41 Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio ...... 14 Castello Fonterutoli ...... 26 Pelissero ...... 15 Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona ...... 26 Luciano Sandrone...... 15 Puglia Col d’Orcia ...... 26 Paolo Scavino ...... 16 Polvanera ...... 42 Duemani ...... 27 Sottimano ...... 16 Fattoria di Magliano ...... 27 La Spinetta ...... 17 Sicilia Fèlsina ...... 28 Vietti ...... 17 Fontodi ...... 29 COS ...... 43
Guado al Tasso ...... 30 Passopisciaro ...... 43
Il Molino di Grace ...... 30 Occhipinti ...... 44
Siro Pacenti ...... 30 Palari ...... 44
Piaggia ...... 31 Tenuta delle Terre Nere ...... 45
Il Poggione ...... 31 Marco de Bartoli ...... 45
Luce della Vite ...... 32 Le Macchiole ...... 33 Sardegna Montevertine ...... 34 Argiolas ...... 45 Poliziano ...... 34
Tolaini ...... 34
Valdicava ...... 35
Viticcio ...... 35 TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE ALTO ADIGE VALLE ISARCO Köfererhof
Located in the Alto Adige region near Austria, these Isarco Valley wineries are the northern- most vineyards in Italy. The Köfererhof estate’s fi ve hectares fl ank the foothills of the Dolemite Mountains, growing at an altitude of 700 metres. Since 1995, Günther Kershbaumer, one of the best white winemakers in Italy, has been making the most of the thermal amplitude between day and night to produce fi nely honed wines with excel- lent aromatic character. The estate grows many varieties, including Kerner, Riesling, Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio and Veltliner, producing wines that are as exciting as they are unparalleled.
01 PINOT GRIGIO 2013 “The Pinot Grigio off ers aromas mostly centred on yellow fruits and smoky notes, while in the mouth its characteristic fattiness is well governed by its complex fl avours and fresh acidity.”
— Italian Wines 2015, Gambero Rosso
420 2018 750 ml $29
GR 12641631
PERFETTO 5 ITALIA TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE ALTO ADIGE VALLE ISARCO ALTO ADIGE Köfererhof Tramin
Founded in 1898, Cantina Tramin is one of the oldest cooperatives in Alto Adige. The coopera- tive’s various vineyards are located between 250 and 900 metres of altitude. Cantina Tramin is renowned for its Pinot Grigios and Sauvignons, but is best known for its Nussbaumer cuvée made from Gewürztraminer. The Gewürztraminer is heavily infl uenced by the region’s climate, espe- cially the variation in temperatures between day and night, allowing the fruit to reach full maturity, with the cool mountain air imparting aromatic fi nesse. The man behind this success is Wilhelm (Willi) Stürz, Cantina Tramin’s technical director since 1995 and Gambero Rosso’s Winemaker of the Year in 2004.
02 03 RIESLING NUSSBAUMER GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2013 2013 “This superb Riesling is a showcase for Günther “A wine with a charming aromatic quality and plenty Kerschbaumer’s mastery of winemaking! This is a of olfactory originality, including olive oil, peach wine with an exquisite aroma, where fl owers, honey, yogurt, preserved lemons, rose and ginger. In the preserved lemon, lime and pear intermingle over a mouth, it is round with a saline fi nish and hints of mineral background. Its salinity is reminiscent of great rose, soft breadcrumb, petroleum jelly and ripe peach. Galician whites (Rías Baixas) as well as the excellent An unparalleled wine that opens minds about what a Austrian Riesling cuvées Kamptal and Kremstal. Gewürztraminer has to off er. The kind of wine that Its purity, concentration, exemplary balance, texture surprises at the table with many pairing possibilities.” and long fi nish have thoroughly seduced us. Quite — Signature Team possibly the best Italian Riesling we have tasted to date. We are in love!”
— Signature Team
O U E R I T FAV O U R
180 2019 750 ml $39 360 750 ml $35
ST 93 12641657 ST 91 V 92 GR 12613015
PERFETTO 6 ITALIA LOMBARDIA LOMBARDIA FRANCIACORTA FRANCIACORTA Bellavista Ca’ del Bosco
According to Guénaël Revel, Quebec’s specialist The Ca’ del Bosco story began in the 1960s when on sparkling wines, the Bellavista estate is the Annamaria Clementi Zanella settled in Erbusco viticultural pearl of the Groupe Terra Moretti— and planted vines. Her son, Maurizio Zanella, has if not the entire appellation. Founded in 1977, been enamoured with winemaking from the age the estate covers 190 hectares of vines with of 14. Following a visit to producers in Champagne, 107 distinct parcels. Each of these parcels is vini- Mr. Zanella returned to Lombardy and moulded the fied separately and then subsequently blended estate that has become one of the most celebrated to make the estate’s cuvées. This one is overseen in the region in terms of sheer skill and knowledge. with great meticulousness by Mattia Vezzola, Pushing the envelope of traditional winemaking, the estate oenologist and the soul behind their he now focuses on the “metodo Ca’ del Bosco.” This consistently excellent products. Bellavista rubs rigorous winemaking technique covers all aspects shoulders with some of the world’s greatest of production, from the vine to disgorging the sparkling wines and it has nothing to fear from product. Most importantly, it includes a cleaning champagne. Bellavista proudly holds its head and drying of the grapes as well as pressing of the high among the best of Italian sparkling wines. fruit in an oxygen-free environment to avoid all traces of oxidation.
04 05 PAS OPERÉ EXTRA BRUT VINTAGE COLLECTION SATÈN 2009 2010 “According to the Bellavista estate this wine is the “Femininity. Smooth, luxurious, ripe, soft, rounded. incarnation of tradition. It is produced following a strict Evokes the enchanting sensuality of the woman of selection of the very best Chardonnay and Pinot Noir one’s heart. One of those wines that thrill the senses. grown at the estate (making up 65% and 35% of the Satèn, with the femininity and elegance of silk, is a blend respectively). Half of the blended wine was special interpretation of a Franciacorta: a felicitous fermented in oak barrels and then conditioned on lees marriage of white grapes only. And a little secret: for six years before being disgorged (sboccatura) in During tirage, when sugars and yeasts are added to 2015. It has a sophisticated nose with intermingling initiate second fermentation in the bottle, Satèn is apple, citrus, honey, acacia, fresh mushroom and given less sugar. Finally, lengthy refi nement enhances almond notes with a solid mineral and toasted back- gentle elegance in every single bottle. Delicious ground. The mouthfeel is full and the eff ervescence as an aperitif and excellent as a conversation wine. is vaporous despite not being dosed (hence its name). Maturation sur lies for an average of 48 months. This Franciacorta is rich and suffi ciently vinous with Chardonnay 85%, Pinot Bianco 15%.” a remarkable freshness.” — www.cadelbosco.com — Signature Team
240 2019 750 ml $64 240 2020 750 ml $65
ST 91 12628524 WS 90 (2009 VINTAGE) 11791733
PERFETTO 7 ITALIA LOMBARDIA VALTELLINA SUPERIORE Ar.Pe.Pe.
A seemingly strange name for an estate, it is in fact an acronym for Arturo Pelizzatti Perego, its founder. In 1984, Mr. Pelizzatti Perego decided to launch his own venture in the Valtellina region of western Lombardy, in a valley that runs east to west, not far from the Swiss border. His three children, Isabella, Emanuele and Guido, are fi ft h- generation winemakers and are currently in charge at the estate. They prefer to make wines with long maturation conducted exclusively in oak barrels to extract the best from their Chiavennasca vines— the local name for Nebbiolo. Their vines are grown on a perfectly exposed terrace, giving the wine a subtle, vibrant and purely traditional character that we adore.
06 SASSELLA STELLA RETICA RISERVA 2010 “The Sassella terroir, with its sloping rocky terraces, reveals its true potential as the perfect location for the masterful expression of Nebbiolo with this cuvée. When given a long and gentle maturation, the wine retains all its inviting Nebbiolo fruit character with a velvety and gently softened tannic character. This wine has truly lovely aromas of kirsch, licorice and nougat. On the palate, the attack is juicy, refreshing and similar to its aromatic profi le, but with the addi- tion of strawberries, tea, undergrowth and a delicate hint of truffl e.”
— Signature Team
O U E R I T FAV O U R
300 2021 750 ml $46
ST 92 GR 12629121 PIEMONTE PIEMONTE PIEMONTE BAROLO GATTINARA GATTINARA Elio Altare Antoniolo
In 1948, Giuseppe Altare took possession of The Antoniolo estate is without a doubt the engine a 5-hectare farm in La Morra. Following a trip that drives Gattinara. The area is located in the to Burgundy in 1976, his grandson Elio had a north of Piedmont and is shamefully less well- revelation: They needed to entirely rework the known than its southern neighbours of Barolo and family winery from vineyard to bottle to improve Barbaresco. Founded in 1948 by Mario Antoniolo, upon the quality of their wine. Giovanni, his father, this property located in the Vercelli province has never understood his son’s stubbornness and now reached 14 hectares in size. Their production dedication to throwing out deeply rooted traditions, focuses on the Nebbiolo variety known to locals but Elio believed strongly in shorter maceration as Spanna. Mr. Antoniolo’s daughter Rosanna is a times, using barrels rather than foudres and a more veritable legend in the region and has been taking respectful treatment of the 10-hectare vineyard. care of the estate with aplomb since the passing With over 45 years of experience now under his of her husband in the 1970s. Charismatic and belt, Elio has passed the torch to his daughter determined, she is one of the leading people Silvia, who is now making some of Piedmont’s responsible for the international reputation of best and most modern Barolos. Gattinara wines, which she continues to promote with the help of her children Lorella and Alberto. This hard work has paid dividends as the cuvées they produce are always excellent regardless of the year. True Piedmont classics! 07 08 09 BAROLO GATTINARA OSSO SAN GRATO 2010 2010 2010 “The 2010 Barolo sees fruit sourced from La Morra, “The Antoniolo estate’s basic cuvée is proof that “The 2010 Gattinara Osso San Grato is quite possibly Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba and shows excellent wines can be made from Nebbiolo by pro- the single greatest wine I have ever tasted from great fruit intensity with ripe tones of dark fruit ducers other than those in the Barolo and Barbaresco Antoniolo. A wine of exquisite beauty, the 2010 has (it is aged in neutral oak). Even the wine’s appearance appellations. Though the nose is restrained for now, all the qualities that make Nebbiolo such a temptress; is slightly darker and more concentrated than it still exudes subtle accents of leather, turf, licorice seductive aromatics, fi nely sculpted fruit and a fi nish neighboring wines. The Serralunga d’Alba quality of and black fruit. The mouth, however, is a diff erent story, that lasts forever. The 2010 isn’t huge, but rather it ripe fruit and power really comes through, espe- with a voluminous and lusty attack with plenty of is a wine that captivates all the senses with its extra- cially in the more nuanced and elegant 2010 vintage. ripe red fruit, dried fl owers and anise. The fi nish is ordinary beauty. Silky, perfumed and exquisite from The bouquet opens to reveal more spice and tobacco balanced with plenty of length. Already enjoyable, the very fi rst taste, this translucent, pure Gattinara with time. The wine’s fullness and generosity work it will surely get even more complex as it ages.” will thrill readers for several decades.… Hints of sage, very nicely in this expression.” rosemary, menthol and new leather add the fi nal shades — Signature Team of nuance. Quite simply, the 2010 Osso San Grato — www.erobertparker.com is a reference-point wine for Nebbiolo, Gattinara, Piedmont and Italy.”
— www.vinousmedia.com
O U E R I T FAV O U R
180 2017-2027 750 ml $86 600 2020 750 ml $47 150 2018-2030 750 ml $85
WA 94 12640241 ST 92 12612688 V 97 GR 12612696
PERFETTO 9 ITALIA PIEMONTE PIEMONTE PIEMONTE BARBERA D’ASTI SUPERIORE NIZZA LANGHE BAROLO Cascina La Barbatella Domenico Clerico
Located in the Nizza Monferrato Hills of southern Domenico Clerico’s estate is located in Monforte Asti, La Barbatella forged its reputation thanks to d’Alba, to the south of Piedmont’s Barolo appel- the hard work and dedication of Angelo Sonvico, lation. Mr. Clerico took the reins of the estate who founded the estate and directed it for 30 years in 1976 and began producing its first wines. before selling to the Perego family in 2010. The new He acquired some of the very best vines that owners have continued to pursue the passion and Piedmont had to offer, including Bussia and dedication that Mr. Sonvico paid to his estate. The Ginestra. These days, his passion has led him to vineyards are nestled in a natural amphitheatre, produce internationally recognized wines from growing mostly Barbera as well as other varieties, 21 hectares of vines. Mr. Clerico works hard to including Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Nero, Cortese produce only the most exceptional fruit on his and Sauvignon. The estate is both modern and beloved terroir. He plays with the Barolo tradition stylish, producing one of the most interesting by barrel-aging his wines, allowing the Nebbiolo interpretations of the Barbera variety in the region, to express itself in its own unique way. and the proof of their hard work is the La Vigna dell’Angelo cuvée.
10 11 12 & 13 LA VIGNA DELL’ANGELO ARTE CIABOT MENTIN 2011 2012 2010 “Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza La Vigna dell’Angelo “The 2012 Arte is a charming blend of 90% Nebbiolo “This Piedmont star’s Barolo cuvée is made by selecting 2011 is back on Tre Bicchieri form. It is an elegant wine and 10% Barbera.… This is a terrifi c wine that boasts the very best Nebbiolo from the Ginestra cru. Following with a nose of ripe red berry fruit, tobacco, dried herbs impeccable density and intensity. It strikes that illu- a long fermentation (20 to 30 days of maceration) and licorice, accompanied by a juicy, velvety soft palate sive balance between elegance and power, without the wine is matured for 24 to 30 months in 80% new that makes no concessions to sweetness but instead giving in too strong [sic] to the latter. Dark fruit and French oak barrels. This is a rich and opulent wine of off ers impressive, fresh acidity on an exceptionally spice come together in seamless fashion. Tightly fi rm noble substance supported by notes of fruit, fl owers pleasant fi nish.” tannins give lift and backbone to the mouthfeel.” and spice as well as a woody, almost cedar-like note. An exceptional Barolo with a modern build that will — Italian Wines 2015, Gambero Rosso — www.erobertparker.com age splendidly for several years.”
— Signature Team
360 2020-2035 750 ml $99
ST 94-96 V 95+ 12658483
240 2021 750 ml $55 750 2030 750 ml $49 48 2022-2040 1.5 L $205
GR 12641770 WA 93+ 12734837 ST 94-96 V 95+ 12671004
PERFETTO 10 ITALIA PIEMONTE PIEMONTE PIEMONTE LANGHE BARBERA D’ALBA BARBARESCO Aldo Conterno Gaja
Looking to found his own winemaking estate in Founded in 1859 by Giovanni Gaja, this mythical the 1950s, Aldo Conterno spent five years with estate is one of Piedmont’s (and perhaps even Italy’s) his uncle in California before returning to his greatest wine ambassadors. Fourth-generation native Piedmont to make wine. Enamoured with winemaker Angelo Gaja is a charismatic and capti- the idea of his new venture but also wanting to do vating person who launched his career in wine in something diff erent than his brother Giovanni, 1961. Today, he is supported in his work by his who worked at the mythical Giacomo Conterno three children, including his daughter Gaia, who family estate, he purchased the Favot farm in is very involved in the estate’s commercial aff airs. 1969. The jewel of his 25-hectare property is Mr. Gaja’s innovative thinking in both the vineyard the renowned Bussia parcels. These vineyards, and the cellars has greatly contributed to the repu- located in the community of Monforte d’Alba, tation of the estate. Low production, barrels from are the source of four remarkable Barolos. These Bordeaux, controlled fermentation in stainless- wines are like no others. They are the intersection steel tanks as well as many other innovations have of tradition and modernity. Following his unfor- shift ed from being heresy to respected technique in tunate passing in 2012 at the age of 81 years, the region. His greatest success so far is his ability Mr. Conterno left his three sons, Franco, Stefano to naturally tame the tannic structure of the local and Giacomo, to continue his work. Salute. Nebbiolo to produce wines with enormous depth, elegance and balance, thanks in part to the help of Guido Rivella, his right-hand man for over 30 years. 14 15 16 LANGHE CONCA TRE PILE BARBARESCO 2012 2012 2011 “We were convinced that we were tasting a Nebbiolo “The Conca Tre Pile vineyard, located in the Bussia “Crushed fl owers, tobacco, sweet spices and red berries complemented with some Barbera, but this was some- Soprana region, boasts Barbera vines that are up to lift from the glass in the 2011 Barbaresco. Soft, silky thing else. It was a blend of old-vine Fresia paired with 45 years old. This particular cuvée has been pampered and accessible, the Barbaresco is already wonder- Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromas were and judiciously matured for 12 months in 100% new fully open and expressive, as so many wines are in this truly remarkable with a noble fl oral character and oak barrels. The maturation notes with their distinct vintage. Kirsch, hard candy and fl oral notes add nuance plenty of licorice, cassis syrup and tobacco matched smoky, tobacco and mocha character do not overpower over time. The style is mid-weight and gracious, with by a spicy woodiness. Flavourful, long and fresh, the fruit, which shines brilliantly after even the briefest gorgeous aromatic complexity and plenty of brightness, this wine has stunning depth for a wine of this rank. aeration. The palate is fresh, generous and persistent, especially within the context of the year.” This one is a must-have!” with melting tannins, fi nishing on accents of violet, — www.vinousmedia.com mocha and ripe black fruit. Already a treat, it can — Signature Team gladly be cellared a bit longer—if you can resist the temptation to open it now!”
— Signature Team
O U E R I T FAV O U R
600 2022 750 ml $35 360 2020 750 ml $43 120 2017-2033 750 ml $225
ST 93 12613736 ST 92 12008253 V 94 12658344
PERFETTO 11 ITALIA PIEMONTE PIEMONTE PIEMONTE LANGHE LANGHE LANGHE Gaja
17 18 19 CONTEISA SPERSS COSTA RUSSI 2010 2010 2011 “The 2010 Conteisa is a stunner with all the over- “Fragrant, with incense and sandalwood notes fram- “Round, supple and succulent, the 2011 Costa Russi whelming elegance that is inherent to this vintage. It ing the core of cherry, accented by hints of leather, is laced with dark red cherry, plum, mocha, cloves and opens steadily to reveal red fl ower, cassis, baking spice, tobacco and tea. Exhibits purity and density despite new leather. The classic Costa Russi personality comes anisette and tobacco. The aromas are expressive and the formidable tannins. The fi nish is long and complex, through in a soft, gracious wine with tons of near deep with enduring richness. The tannins are slightly revealing fruit and spice elements.” and medium-term appeal. The Costa Russi captures sweet and already soft. This is a collectors’ choice.” an attractive middle ground between the ripe, pliant — www.winespectator.com style of the year and the medium-bodied grace of — www.erobertparker.com Nebbiolo. I expect the 2011 will off er a long and broad drinking window of pure pleasure. Although Costa Russi is often the most precocious of Gaja’s single- vineyard wines, it is the last site to be picked.”
— www.vinousmedia.com
72 2018-2035 750 ml $248 36 2018-2035 750 ml $275 24 2018-2036 750 ml $535
WA 97 12658424 WS 97 12658416 WA 94 V 94 12658352
PERFETTO 12 ITALIA PIEMONTE PIEMONTE PIEMONTE LANGHE LANGHE ROERO Bruno Giacosa
Founded by Carlo Giacosa in 1890 in the Neive community, this traditional estate is one of the pillars of Piedmont and one of the most important and emblematic representations of the region. Bruno Giacosa, a third-generation winemaker, took over from his father, Mario, in 1961. He produced his fi rst wines using grapes grown by viti culturists with whom his family had a long-standing rela- tionship (Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa). In 1982, he acquired his fi rst vines (20 hectares on some of the best terroirs in Barolo and Barbaresco), known under the name Azienda Agricola Falletto. This modest, meticulous and immensely talented winemaker’s many cuvées are undeniable proof of his remarkable skill.
20 21 22 SORÌ SAN LORENZO SORÌ TILDÌN ARNEIS 2011 2011 2014 “The 2011 Sorì San Lorenzo boasts massive depth, “The most convincing red in our tastings was precisely “Dark, straw-yellow colour. Intense, fi ne and elegantly intensity and power. Black fruit, smoke, tar, licorice, [sic] Sorì Tildìn. This Barbaresco cru off ers a nose of fruity bouquet reminiscent of peach, apricot, citrus, savory herbs and leather are some of the many notes berry fruit enriched with hints of eucalyptus and resin. fruit and acacia fl owers. Fresh and fragrant fl avour that emerge from the glass. Regardless of the year, On the palate it is concentrated, with close-woven with soft plentifulness.” the personality of Sorì San Lorenzo always comes tannins, but delightfully soft body, ensuring balance — www.brunogiacosa.it through, which is why this is one of the great sites in and harmony. It is in a class of its own and deservedly Barbaresco, Piedmont and Italy. In 2011 the contours took our top accolade.” are a bit softer, which gives the wine a level of access- — Italian Wines 2015, Gambero Rosso ibility that is quite rare in Sorì San Lorenzos when the wines are young. Why is Sorì San Lorenzo one of the world’s most profound vineyards? Because its personality simply can’t be denied.”
— www.vinousmedia.com
48 2021-2041 750 ml $535 24 2018-2041 750 ml $535 900 2018 750 ml $34
V 97+ 12658387 V 96 GR 12658379 12624275
PERFETTO 13 ITALIA PIEMONTE PIEMONTE PIEMONTE BARBARESCO BAROLO BAROLO Bruno Giacosa Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio
Founded in the community of Castiglione Falletto, this estate has been the incarnation of traditional Piedmont winemaking since 1881. Mauro Mascarello, fourth-generation winemaker, has skilfully headed the estate since 1967. He prefers slow fermenta tion and long maturation in Slavonian oak barrels, sparing no eff ort at the vines either. He is strict and meticulous when it comes to sorting the fruit to ensure that only the very best grapes make it into his product. The 6-hectare Monprivato vineyard, the estate’s fi gurehead, is where they produce their Barolos. They have had a monopoly over the vineyard since the late 1980s and it is the source of some of the single most renowned wines of Barolo. The cuvées produced are one of the region’s highlights. This is Nebbiolo at its very best.
23 24 25 ASILI VIGNA SANTO STEFANO PERNO VILLERO 2012 2010 2010 “Bruno Giacosa’s 2012 Barbaresco Asili benefi tted “Nebbiolo enthusiasts will be charmed by the 2010 “The 2010 Barolo Villero is shaped in a classic style from a warm growing season. The wine opens to a dark, Barolo Vigna Santo Stefano Perno. This beautiful with 36 months of aging in botte grande. In line with compact appearance and shows an impressive level of expression offers ample grace and elegance with tradition, it presents a sharp and streamlined style aromatic intensity and complexity.… This bodes well for focused sharpness and a carefully delineated feel. with a feminine and elegant personality. Instead of the aging potential of this beautiful wine. Fresh acidity The bouquet reveals tones of wild berry, crushed muscle and brawn, it boasts length and persistency. caps a very pretty portrait of the Nebbiolo grape. This mineral, white pepper and dried ginger. The wine’s Its appearance is thin and bright with luminous garnet is a lovely off ering from this historic producer.” balsamic characteristics help to amplify its beauty hues. In the mouth, the wine is focused and pristine and delicate intensity. Nuanced tones of rose petal with supple, silky tannins. It promises to fl esh out — www.erobertparker.com and dried violets appear softly on the long fi nish.” further with additional cellar aging.”
— www.erobertparker.com — www.erobertparker.com
84 2017-2030 750 ml $215 120 2035 750 ml $115 120 2028 750 ml $115
WA 94 12628532 WA 94 12444688 WA 92 12444741
PERFETTO 14 ITALIA PIEMONTE PIEMONTE PIEMONTE BAROLO LANGHE BAROLO Pelissero Luciano Sandrone
Based in the community of Treiso, in the heart of Luciano Sandrone cut his teeth by making some Barbaresco, the Pelissero family went from selling 1,500 bottles of Barolo using grapes from the to vinifying their estate-grown grapes in just Cannubi cru that he vinifi ed in his parents’ garage three generations. Luigi was the fi rst to discover in 1978. Several years later, when he brought a few (and bottle) the exceptional quality of the property’s bottles of his 1978 vintage to Vinitaly, an American terroirs. It was his son Giorgio that truly glorifi ed importer requested his entire production and a the wines made from the 38 hectares of land that legend was born. Quickly rising to the elite of his produce that estate’s wines, which are dominated appellation, he has received laudatory reviews from by local red grape varieties. Reaching the peak of notable critics, including Robert Parker, who called what Barbarescos have to offer, the estate also him “Super Sandrone” following his incredible per- produces DOC-classified Langhe using daring formance during the 1980s. He is now helped out new blends such as the Long Now, which is pro- by his younger brother as well as by his daughter. duced with equal parts of Nebbiolo and Barbera. Together, they cultivate 27 hectares of vines, paying Pelissero’s successful production and distribution particular attention to their environmental impact. can be attrib uted to their dynamism, innovation and a complete commitment to operations.
26 27 28 & 29 MONPRIVATO LONG NOW CANNUBI BOSCHIS 2010 2011 2010 “Mauro Mascarello does not disappoint with his stun- “The 2011 Long Now is dark, rich and imposing, with “The single-vineyard 2010 Barolo Cannubi Boschis ning 2010 Barolo Monprivato. This is an impeccable fabulous depth allied to a sense of underlying tension speaks in confident tones at high volumes. First expression from Castiglione Falletto that imparts an that balances some of the wine’s inherent opulence. produced in 1985, Cannubi Boschis is among the immense sense of purity and elegance. The bouquet Black cherries, smoke, tobacco, incense and licorice fi rst single-vineyard cru expressions made in Barolo. opens slowly to reveal pressed flower, cola, dried meld together in an explosive Barbera/Nebbiolo blend Thirty-fi ve-year-old vines enjoy south and southeast ginger, forest fruit and balsam herb. This is a magnifi - endowed with magnifi cent richness and power.” exposures at 250 meters above sea level. The long cent expression of Nebbiolo that changes and shifts 2010 growing season has favored optimal tannin — www.vinousmedia.com each time you come back to contemplate its aromas. ripeness and fi ne complexity on the bouquet. This is That magical fl uidity is also present in the mouth. one of the standout wines of this celebrated vintage. The wine presents silky tannins and crisp fruit fl avors. It is well worth putting this wine at the back of your Given the sheer quality on display now, you can count cellar where it will be untouched for years.” on Barolo Monprivato to continue a slow and successful — www.erobertparker.com evolution in your cellar. This is a true beauty.”
— www.erobertparker.com
180 2017-2030 750 ml $139
WA 97 V 97+ GR 12535934
600 2017-2035 750 ml $154 600 2020-2030 750 ml $48 15 2025-2040 1.5 L $299
WA 97 WS 96 12500432 V 93 12624654 WA 97 V 97+ GR 12447820
PERFETTO 15 ITALIA PIEMONTE PIEMONTE PIEMONTE BAROLO BARBARESCO BARBARESCO RISERVA Paolo Scavino Sottimano
Founded in 1921 by Lorenzo Scavino and his son Rino Sottimano founded this estate in Neive in Paolo, the Castiglione Falletto estate is currently 1974. His son Andrea currently runs the 18 hec- managed by Enrica and Elisa, fourth-generation tares of vineyards with the utmost care, banning winemakers, as well as their father, Enrico. At the use of pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers in just 10 years of age, Enrico was already working 1990. He takes a very Burgundian approach to his full-time at the winery in the 1950s. Their goal is winemaking, preferring to focus on the contribu- to perpetuate the family spirit and values through tion of terroir. His fi ve crus (Currà, Cottà, Fausoni, the means of its terroir. With 23 hectares of vine- Pajoré and Basarin) are testaments to the intrinsic yards, the Scavinos work 19 diff erent growths in qualities of each of his four Barbarescos, which the Barolo, Roddi, Serralunga d’Alba, Verduno, he vinifi es identically and then matures in French La Morra and Castiglione Falletto communities. barrels. His aim is to make wines with elegance Since 1978, they have been producing the renowned and fi nesse rather than power, and the wines, as Bric dël Fiasc from fruit grown on the Fiasco cru, a whole, have never been better. which is in a sense the true soul and incarnation of the Paolo Scavino estate.
30 31 32 BRIC DËL FIASC PAJORÉ BARBARESCO RISERVA 2010 2012 2010 “Rich and brooding, this red features black cherry, “The 2012 Barbaresco Pajoré is a wine that exudes “Tight and racy, this red exhibits cherry, raspberry, raspberry, tar, leather and licorice fl avors. Dense and balance and harmony. The wine is absolutely intact in fl oral and tar fl avors, matched to a fresh, fi rm structure. complex, with a detailed matrix holding the fl avors all its elements and there’s a sense of continuity here Gains richness with air, picking up a mineral note on together. This needs time to integrate the dusty that sets it apart. As it warms in the glass, this beautiful the lingering aftertaste. Terrifi c length.” tannins, but shows excellent potential from the Barbaresco takes on greater aromatic intensity with — www.winespectator.com balance and length.” its fl oral tones that blossom brighter and the fruity tones that emerge steadily from the bouquet. Spice, — www.winespectator.com leather and grilled herb linger delicately at the back. The Barbaresco Pajoré is a beautiful wine.”
— www.erobertparker.com
120 2018-2035 750 ml $102 240 2016-2028 750 ml $75 48 2018-2030 750 ml $194
WA 96 WS 97 11992543 WA 93 V 93 12627767 WS 95 12627812
PERFETTO 16 ITALIA PIEMONTE PIEMONTE PIEMONTE BARBARESCO BAROLO BAROLO La Spinetta Vietti
This estate, a pioneer in the production of Moscato The fourth generation of winemakers in the Currado d’Asti, was founded in 1977 in Castagnole delle family now runs this estate, which was originally Lanze by Giuseppe (Pin) and Lidia Rivetti. In the found ed in 1919 by Mario Vietti in the heart of mid-1980s, their son Giorgio acquired some well- Langhe, in the Castiglione Falletto community. regarded vineyards and produced the estate’s In 1952, Mr. Vietti’s son-in-law Alfredo Currado first red wines. His Barolos and Barbarescos began producing wines of exceptional quality. have since become renowned for their power He was one of the very first to produce parcel- and concentration. They have reduced the pro- based cuvées in order to focus on their intrinsic portion of new wood for their diff erent cuvées so character—an unconventional technique at the that each vineyard and wine can best express time. A trained oenologist, his son Luca joined its individual characteristics. La Spinetta’s rise the family estate in 1990 aft er taking classes in to fame could not have been possible without California at Opus One as well as in Bordeaux at the help and dynamism of Giorgio Rivetti, who the Château Mouton Rothschild. In conjunction directly contributed to the estate being ranked with his brother-in-law Mario Cordero, he works as one of the uncontested leaders in Piedmont. the 35-hectare vineyards, which extend across nearly all of the communities of Barolo. Together, they have adopted an approach that reflects their terroirs. 33 34 35 VIGNETO STARDERI VÜRSÙ BRUNATE LAZZARITO 2010 2010 2010 “The 2010 Barbaresco Vigneto Starderi is born in a “The 2010 Barolo Brunate impresses for its textural “With recently expanded acquisitions in this vineyard vineyard that sits at 330 meters above sea level. richness and aromatic generosity. The Brunate cru cru, the 2010 Barolo Lazzarito shows an expansive Giorgio tells me that the challenge here is crafting shows exceptionally well in 2010, off ering the kind personality with pretty tones of crushed rose and a wine with both elegance and power. Thanks to ideal of structure that is as powerful and lasting as it is red berry fruit that give the wine a delicate, feminine growing conditions in 2010, he has succeeded at his fi nessed and graceful. It’s the proverbial iron fi st in a approach. Like the other wines in Luca’s portfolio of task. Firm structure is supported by fl eshy fruit tones silken glove. A burgeoning bouquet of dried fl ower new releases, this Barolo is years away from its prime and elegantly integrated spice.” and pressed cherry roots the wine in a sense of fresh- drinking potential. The next 10 years should see a ness and youthfulness. Indeed, Brunate is a vineyard steady evolution of aromas stemming from the spice, — www.erobertparker.com cru that is particularly suited to long-living Barolo. tar and licorice layers already on display despite the It is a crime to drink this wine before its time.” wine’s young age. The mouthfeel is fi ne and polished with a great sense of purity and balanced freshness.” — www.erobertparker.com — www.erobertparker.com
180 2030 750 ml $140 78 2018-2035 750 ml $173 150 2018-2035 750 ml $173
WA 95 11863194 WA 96 V 97 12465358 WA 95 V 96 12465382
PERFETTO 17 ITALIA VENETO VINO SPUMANTE DI QUALITÀ BIANCO Zýmē
Long considered the successor to his father-in- law, the legendary and sadly missed Giuseppe Quintarelli, Celestino Gaspari decided to go his own route instead, making a name for himself as one of the leaders in Valpolicella. He began working with Mr. Quintarelli in 1999 and also worked as a consultant for several estates in the region before creating Zýmē in 2003. Located in San Pietro, Cariano, the estate covers 30 hectares in the heart of Valpolicella Classico. Marrying tradition and innovation, Mr. Gaspari launched his own project, which included a major creative renewal. He spared no eff ort to produce distinctive, singular and seductive wines. Renowned critic Antonio Galloni is categorical about Zýmē, consid- ering it to be “one of the most meticulously led operations in the entire world.”
36 METODO CLASSICO 2010 “Zýmē’s 2010 Metodo Classico, 100% Pinot Noir, is bright, focused and brilliant. White fl owers, crushed rocks, mint and stone fruits are all beautifully delineated. There is a lot to like in the 2010, including the wine’s fi ne mousse and terrifi c overall balance. Celestino Gaspari gave the 2010 two and a half years on its lees.”
— www.vinousmedia.com
300 2018 750 ml $49
V 91 12624339
PERFETTO 18 ITALIA VENETO VENETO VENETO SOAVE CLASSICO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE CLASSICO Gini Romano Dal Forno Brigaldara Right in the heart of Soave Classico, in Monteforte Established just to the east of Verona, in the Val d’Alpone, this cantina has a rich history going Brigaldara is a term that fi rst appeared in 1260 d’Illasi portion of the Valpolicella region to be precise, back to the 16th century. The strength of the as a name for a small group of houses and farms. this minuscule estate has barely eight hectares, but Gini family is being able to work together with The Cesari family bought the estate in 1929 and is known for its hard-hitting style of winemaking. enthusiasm and dedication by focusing on their converted it to a vineyard roughly 20 years later. This reputation is attributable to one man, Romano common passions for the vine and their wines. In 1979 they decided to produce their own wine Dal Forno, an uncompromising and unforgiving Brothers Sandro and Claudio Gini work in sym- rather than selling their fruit to other producers. winemaker when it comes to quality. Since 1983, biosis with their estate, skilfully managing the Since then, they have purchased several other his winemaking techniques and know-how have 55 hectares of vines that are entirely grown using parcels in addition to founding partnerships with skyrocketed him to the forefront of the very best organic agriculture. Sandro is an oenologist, who other winemakers to expand their estate. Their producers, despite not being in the Classico region. mostly manages the property, and Claudio works Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is produced A true sign of a talented winemaker! These are in the cellar in the company of his son Matteo. using a blend dominated by Corvinone, and the wines for hedonists. Made in a modern style, his Contrada Salvarenza, their historic vineyard, is appassimento (raisining) extends over 120 days. Valpolicellas and Amarones are fl amboyant, rich, the pride of their estate. It has always belonged The estate also produces olive oil and truffl es! opulent and have incomparable texture. to the Gini family and it is where they grow their old Garganega vines, which are between 60 and 100 years old—some of which are still ungraft ed.
37 38 39 CONTRADA SALVARENZA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA MONTE LODOLETTA 2012 CLASSICO 2009 2010 “A Soave made with 100% Garganega that once again “Built like a tank, the 2009 Valpolicella Superiore proves this appellation produces some of the very “The 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is a Monte Lodoletta is a masterful achievement. This best white wines in Italy, and it does so at aff ordable thick and delicious interpretation that delivers loads wine shows so beautifully, especially in a warm but prices. The nose smacks of fresh peaches, almonds of personality and determination. The bouquet is balanced vintage like 2009. The fruit is expressive and and honey. There is plenty of volume as well, balanced redolent of dried fruit, prune, cassis, spice, leather, articulate with deep layers of blackberry preserves, by a refreshing acidity. Already open and sensuous, licorice and teriyaki sauce. The intensity is absolutely dried cherry, dark chocolate, espresso bean, mesquite this wine could easily spend a few years in the cellar, irresistible, with power and muscle delivered in a silken smoke and soy sauce. The mouthfeel is super rich and but why wait when it’s so good right now!” glove. Round tannins and plush fruit richness give the concentrated as the Dal Forno signature style would wine loads of energy to fuel its long fi nish.” dictate. The tannic bite is still strong and this wine needs — Signature Team a few more years to stretch out its muscular build.” — www.erobertparker.com — www.erobertparker.com
750 2019 750 ml $35 900 2025 750 ml $49 120 2018-2034 750 ml $120
ST 92 WA 92+ 12657106 WA 93 GR 12625121 WA 94+ 12628479
PERFETTO 19 ITALIA VENETO VENETO VENETO VALPOLICELLA SUPERIORE AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO CLASSICO Trabucchi d’Illasi Masi This 22-hectare estate located in the southern Illasi region on steep southern-facing slopes was Masi is currently known as one of the largest pro- founded by Marco Trabucchi, the grandfather of the ducers in Veneto. Despite their production size, the current owner. Giuseppe and Raff aella Trabucchi business has staunchly remained a family property. subscribe to organic agriculture and are driven to Sandro Boscaini, with the help of his children and maintain the gentle character of their estate for brother, is the seventh generation of the Boscaini the people as well as the land. Alberto Trabucchi, family to head the property. Over the years, the Giuseppe’s father, was an important player in Boscaini family has greatly contributed to the the establishment of the Valpolicella production development of local expertise thanks to the work area. The estate grows a number of varieties and they have done on appassimento, the grape-drying is as rigorous in its agricultural practices as it is method used in the production of Amarones. They with its winemaking. Limited production, manual have also contributed to the rediscovery of several harvesting and control points along all stages of overlooked local varieties, and they were pioneers produc tion have allowed the estate to produce in the creation of cuvées made from several unique wines that “awaken the senses and inspire medita- parcels. Their Amarones are produced from parcels tion.” They also “encourage an exis tential balance that are used to make some of the very best wines that we sometimes tend to forget.” in the appellation.
40 4 1 42 TERRA DEL CEREOLO COSTASERA CAMPOLONGO DI TORBE 2008 1990 1997 “Only 15,000 bottles were produced for this vintage. “Pale garnet; red cherry aromas, with notable spice “Deep garnet; aromas of Queen Anne cherry, straw- This wine has a beautiful ruby colour and an inviting (caraway and cardamom). Medium full, this has berry, red plum and a hint of chocolate. Medium full, aroma of jammy red fruit that also makes a welcome beautifully tuned acidity, a lengthy fi nish and round with excellent concentration. Generous mid-palate; appearance in the mouth. Made from 40% Corvina, tannins. Lovely balance throughout; note of brown ideal ripeness, very good acidity and rich, balanced 40% Corvinone, 10% Rondinella and 10% Oseleta, spice on the fi nish.” tannins. Distinct notes of bitter chocolate in the this wine off ers plenty of ripe fruity fl avour dominated fi n i s h . L o v e l y w i n e . ” — World of Fine Wine 2012 by cherry. It is full-bodied, woody and well integrated, — World of Fine Wine 2012 with generous and refi ned tannins. A creation of star oenologist Franco Bernabei, this wine is a true pleasure.”
— Signature Team
O U E R I T FAV O U R
900 2020 750 ml $39 60 750 ml $185 60 2025 750 ml $205
ST 91 12625180 WFW 17.5 12657069 WS 93 WFW 18.5 12657042
PERFETTO 20 ITALIA VENETO VENETO VENETO VENETO AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA VENETO CLASSICO Giuseppe Quintarelli
Giuseppe Quintarelli was more than a winemaker. He was an artist of Veronese wine and a mythical figure in the world of winemaking. Known to his friends as “Bepi,” he was recognized as the founding father of some of the best Amarones in the region before he passed away in 2012. His perfectionism and the incomparable quality of his wines have inspired many winemakers. The majority of the vineyards on his estate, which cover 12 hectares, are located west of Verona in the Negrar Valley and are concentrated in the best (Classico) area. The “Maestro del Veneto” has been succeeded by his wife Franca and his daughter Fiorenza as well as her husband Giampaolo and their sons Francesco and Lorenzo. Together, they have taken the reins of the estate, which is renowned for its legendary tradition and the immense keeping power of its wines. 43 44 45 ROSSO DEL BEPI AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA ALZERO 2005 CLASSICO 2005 2006 “Amarone is only produced in exceptional years. In “The 2005 Alzero is all about fi nesse. Freshly cut ‘average’ years, the wine is declassifi ed and bottled “Amarone is only produced in exceptional years. fl owers, mint and sweet red berries are laced together as Rosso del Bepi. In poor years, neither Amarone nor In truly exceptional years, an Amarone Riserva is in a fi nessed, racy Alzero loaded with class. Because Ross del Bepi is produced. After harvest, grapes sit in produced, a personal barrel selection by the family. of its mid-weight structure, the 2005 should drink wooden boxes or on rush mats. Careful attention is paid Careful selection of grapes during harvest. After well relatively early, although it will always have the to the positioning of the grapes so the appassimento harvest, grapes sit in wooden boxes or on rush mats. bright, refreshing acidity of the cool vintage.… The can occur naturally. Fermentation lasts 45 days. Wine Careful attention is paid to the positioning of the 2005 is approximately 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, is then racked and ages in Slavonian oak barrels for grapes so the appassimento can occur naturally. 40% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot.” seven years. Alcoholic fermentation continues during Fermentation lasts 45 days. Wine is then racked — www.vinousmedia.com this aging period creating a dry wine. 40% Cabernet and ages in Slavonian oak barrels for seven years. Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot.” Alcoholic fermentation continues during this aging period creating a dry wine. A blend of 55% Corvina — www.kermitlynch.com and Corvinone, 30% Rondinella, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Croatina, Sangiovese.”
— www.kermitlynch.com
72 2025 750 ml $185 36 2036 750 ml $384 36 2022 750 ml $470
11532547 V 9 6 (2004 VINTAGE) 12625446 V 9 4 12625462
PERFETTO 21 ITALIA VENETO COLLI EUGANEI ROSSO Vignalta
Following several years of tasting the best wines that Bordeaux had to off er, Lucio Gomiero, founder of the Vignalta estate, realized that “if Pomerol can do it, so can we!” A contraction of vigna and alta (“high vine”), this 50-hectare estate, the largest in the region, is named for its high-altitude loca- tion in the heart of the Veneto region. Covering a group of hills in southwestern Padova in the Colli Euganei appellation, the estate shares the same latitude as the Bordeaux region. Their Merlots and Cabernets are especially wonderful and few wine- makers can better exemplify these varieties than Vignalta. This is why they are the engine that drives this renowned appellation.
46 GEMOLA 2009 “Located in Veneto near the city of Padua in north- eastern Italy, the Vignalta estate produces the Gemola cuvée using Merlot (70%) and Cabernet Franc (30%). The wine is matured for 24 months in 500-litre French oak barrels before spending 12 months in the bottle before being sold. The wine’s aroma resounds with ripe fruit (raspberry, plum and blackberry), spice and cocoa notes. The wine has a soft texture and is marked by the use of Cabernet Franc, ending with a preserved fruit and mocha fi nish.”
— Signature Team
600 2019 750 ml $45
S T 9 0 12625032
PERFETTO 22 ITALIAITALIA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA BOLGHERI SUPERIORE BOLGHERI Argiano Barone Ricasoli Ca’ Marcanda
The Argiano estate’s history goes back to the The Ricasoli family’s history and connections In 1996, Angelo Gaja arrived in Maremma in the Roman era though its viticultural past only goes to viticulture go back to 1141 when they became community of Castagneto Carducci in Bolgheri. back as far as the tail end of the 16th century. the owners of the Castello di Brolio property. Ca’ Marcanda means “the house of never-ending The owners of this historic estate participated Their history is especially influential in the negotiations” in the local dialect. It refers to the in the growth of the Brunello di Montalcino region’s history and its wines include the famous incalculable number of hours Mr. Gaja spent appellation in 1967 by collaborating with other Chiantis, which were first defined by Bettino trying to convince the owners of the property to producers in the establishment of the Consorzio Ricasoli at the end of the 19th century as being sell to him. The enormous potential offered by del Vino Brunello di Montalcino. Following the made from Sangiovese—as they still are today. the terroir was yet to be fully tapped; when Mr. Gaja arrival of Countess Noemi Marone Cinzano in The house motto “nothing worth having is fi nally took it over there was only an orchard, an 1992, the estate took up a more modern approach. gained without eff ort” suits them perfectly. They olive grove and a few feet of vines. He opted to The Countess sold the property in 2013 to a group currently create some of the region’s very best grow varieties from Bordeaux, including Syrah of Brazilian businessmen who have pursued the wines, walking a remarkable balance between and Sangiovese, on the 60 hectares that make up excellent work she began with the creation of tradition and modernity. These are wines with the vineyard. Produced since 2000, Camarcanda sensational cuvées that have wooed wine lovers truly remarkable longevity. is the estate’s grand cuvée and quickly rose to around the world. equal the great wines of the Bolgheri.
47 48 49 SUOLO ASTUTO MAGARI 2012 2012 2012 “Produced for the fi rst time in 2000 … Suolo is made “This cuvée project by Barone Ricasoli, done in “One of our panel’s favourites. Roughly translated, with 100% Sangiovese grapes grown in the estate’s collaboration with Podere Sapaio, is a Bordeaux-style magari means ‘if only!’, an Italian expression related to oldest vineyards. The name Suolo is a tribute to the blend with Cabernet Sauvignon as the dominant va- desire, hope and an optimistic vision of the future. For ground that hosts the vines (suolo being the Italian riety. The aroma is distinctly reminiscent of cedar, Ca’ Marcanda, the future looks promising, especially word for ‘ground’) and which conveys great complexity blackcurrant and grilled red pepper. The mouthfeel is since their cuvées are already excellent. Dominated to them.… With its good structure, Suolo is smooth well structured and though the maturation character by the use of Merlot, with the addition of equal parts and velvety, well balanced overall, dark and mysterious, is still quite strong, it has a truly remarkable quality. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, the wine is with superbly integrated oaky notes. The aftertaste The freshness, structure and length accentuate matured for 18 months in barrels and then spends an- lingers, with balsamic, earthy and persistent fruity scents. its woody, spicy notes, which are likely to last over other six months in the bottle for additional refi nement. It presents notes of red berries, fl owers, spices, liquorice, time. This is a wine that will become softer and more Exceptionally straightforward, it is complex and tight smoke and earthiness that are clearly outlined and defi ned as it ages.” in the mouth, retaining its character through lactic, perfumed in a magnifi cently pure and vibrant expres- spicy/woody, vanilla and fruity notes. An authentic — Signature Team sion of Sangiovese that explodes on the palate. Just Gaja signature!” 3,000 bottles and 60 magnums are made each year.” — Signature Team — www.argiano.net
O U E R I T FAV O U R
75 2027 750 ml $129 450 2017-2025 750 ml $49 480 2025 750 ml $65
WA 93 (2011 VINTAGE) 12287310 ST 91-93 12626879 ST 94 WA 94 12625227
PERFETTO 23 ITALIA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA BOLGHERI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO TOSCANA Ca’ Marcanda Camigliano Castellare di Castellina
Located in the remote southwestern region of Paolo Panerai established his venture in the Montalcino, Camigliano is part of a chain of medi- Castellina commune in Chianti in 1977. A former eval castles that were originally a series of guard journalist and owner of the prolific Italian towers. In 1957, Milan-based entrepreneur Walter press group Class Editori, Mr. Panerai carefully Ghezzi acquired what is now considered to be studied how the best wine in the world was one of the largest properties in Montalcino. This being made before launching full force into his vast 500-hectare estate, where vines and olive project. The 80-hectare property is a veritable trees grow side by side, began producing its fi rst wildlife refuge, including several at-risk species Brunellos in 1964. In the 1980s, Mr. Ghezzi’s son of birds. His dedication to the protection of these Gualtiero and his wife Laura began a major planting species is the reason behind the estate’s choice and restructuring program of the vineyards, which of labels. Under the careful eye of oenologist and now cover 90 hectares of vines. With the help of winemaker Alessandro Cellai since 1997, the oenologist Lorenzo Landi, the quality of their wines 30-hectare estate primarily focuses on growing has excelled thanks to their skilled use of perfectly Sangiovese. Castellare di Castellina is without ripe Sangiovese. a doubt one of Chianti Classico’s best off erings.
50 51 52 CAMARCANDA GUALTO RISERVA I SODI DI S. NICCOLÒ 2011 2009 2011 “The 2011 Bolgheri Camarcanda opens to plump “The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Gualto “Dense, yet lively and focused, revealing black cherry, berry notes with apparent ripeness in the form of is a beautifully compact and stitched-up wine with plum, spice and licorice fl avors. Balanced and long, sun-drenched blackberry and plum. The fruit element great balance and intensity overall. The bouquet shows but needs time for all the components to emerge. in this Merlot–Cabernet Sauvignon–Cabernet Franc pretty aromas of cherry, blackberry, spice, licorice Sangiovese and Malvasia Nera.” blend is dark and compelling, and the mouthfeel and wet earth that fi t together like an intricate jigsaw — www.winespectator.com follows suit with soft tannins and dark concentration. puzzle. The wine is just as compelling in the mouth The 2011 vintage is also characterized by a more evident with soft tannins, good richness and a fi ne point of tannic bite that should soften with time.” acidity that adds focus to the entire presentation. There are added nuances derived from the oak, as there — www.erobertparker.com are from the warm 2009 vintage. Both contribute to the wine’s softness. Overall, the wine off ers a good sense of balance and steadiness.”
— www.erobertparker.com
60 2028 750 ml $159 300 2025 750 ml $67 600 2023 750 ml $72
WA 94 12624523 WA 93+ 12626967 W S 9 4 12625147
PERFETTO 24 ITALIA TOSCANA TOSCANA CHIANTI CLASSICO TOSCANA GRAN SELEZIONE Castello di Bossi Castelli del Grevepesa Located northwest of Sienna in Castelnuovo This cooperative, which had roughly 20 members Berardenga, Castello di Bossi has been producing when it was founded in 1965, has fl ourished, and wine for over 800 years. The property was pur- it now has 150 members, four of whom have been chased by the Bacci family and with them came members since its founding. Scattered across modern viticulture and winemaking techniques, Chianti, the vineyards cover a signifi cant amount and the development of more refined wine. of territory in the Classico appellation. The maestro Sangiovese dominates production at the estate, of this group is agricultural engineer and oenologist which covers nearly 120 hectares, and it is used Ugo Pagliani, who prides himself on being present for the production of several wines in the Chianti at all steps of production, from vine to bottle. His appellation as well as in the Super Tuscan cuvées rigorousness and irreproachable mastery of the that are a blend of several international varieties. fi eld have allowed Castelli del Grevepesa to become Their cuvées are given lengthy maturation in the leader of the pack for cooperative cellars in the French Allier oak barrels. entire peninsula.
53 54 PANZANO GIROLAMO 2010 2010 “The ring of hills to the south of the renowned village “This is a wine with an explosive aroma of red fruit, of Panzano has been dubbed the Golden Valley coffee and mocha. A thoroughly modern cuvée, because of the quality of the wines it produces. it is made with 100% Merlot and has a limited annual This important location in Chianti has magnifi cent production of just 10,000 bottles. Remarkably well- sun exposure and the composition of its soil is truly balanced and sensuous, the wine is frank in fl avour, unique. The wines are barrel-matured in French oak with subtle hints of chocolate in the fi nish. The tannins and then spend time ripening in the bottle for a total are silky soft and lingering. Quite pleasant already.” of 30 months. The wine production here has not been — Signature Team touched by modernity; they proudly prefer to take a traditional approach with supple and fresh wines as their goals. This is the perfect wine to complement your next Italian dinner.”
— Signature Team
O U E R I T FAV O U R
720 2019 750 ml $38 360 2025 750 ml $59
ST 90 WS 90 12626764 ST 94 V 94+ 12626692
PERFETTO 25 ITALIA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA Castello Fonterutoli Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Col d’Orcia
The Mazzei family has owned Fonterutoli since This estate, which includes a palace built in the In 1973 the Piedmontese Cinzano family acquired 1435, and the family estate has an impressive 17th century by the Bishop of Montalcino, took Col d’Orcia, one of the oldest estates in Montalcino, spread of 650 hectares, 117 of which grow grapes. its current name in the middle of the 20th century. dating back to 1890. Located in the Val d’Orcia, just The family used its infl uence to acquire another Giuseppe Bianchini inherited the property in 1985 south of the city of Montalcino, the area has been estate in the Maremma region in the 1990s and and dedicated himself to improving the quality of classifi ed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since more recently another estate in southern Sicily. the wines until his passing in 2004. His children 2004. The estate is the third largest in the Brunello Taking a modern and highly qualitative approach, are the current heads of the estate. Their best cuvées di Montalcino appellation. The estate is working the family produces seductive wines that are come from the roughly 12-hectare Pianrosso parcel, hard to protect the land by growing its produce impressive across the entire price range. Over the which is planted with old-vine Sangiovese Grosso. (grapes, olives, etc.) through organic agriculture. past few years, their cuvées have improved in A pioneer in the fi ght against counterfeit wines, The Poggio al Vento vineyard is research oriented, precision and fi nesse. They certainly rank among the estate began putting holograms on its bottles working in partnership with the University of the elite of their respective appellations. in 2006 to ensure their authenticity. Florence to develop two Sangiovese clones that are adapted to the Col d’Orcia terroir.
55 56 57 & 58 SIEPI PIANROSSO POGGIO AL VENTO 2011 2010 2007 “The Siepi vineyard, a cru unto itself, is among the “Beautiful and delicate from the start, the 2010 “The estate’s 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva estate’s very best parcels. This 6-hectare vineyard is Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso impresses Poggio al Vento is striking. Freshly cut roses, sweet in the perfect location and is responsible for providing for its depth and balance. The wine sees one more year spices and red cherries wrap around the palate in a the wine with its power and distinction. A few years of of oak cask aging compared to the base Brunello, and sensual wine endowed with superb depth and pedigree. patience will allow this wine’s already charming aroma you can defi nitely sense the extra spice on the nose. This is one of the more feminine, gracious wines of to fully blossom, though its freshness wowed us with Those delicate balsam notes of root beer, ginger and the year. It will be interesting to see where the 2007 its aroma of black cherry, blueberry, thyme, licorice rosemary oil are still prominently on display. Rich Poggio al Vento goes over the coming decades. Today, and truffl e. According to the prestigious Gambero spice, leather and tar are followed by dark fruit, prune, it is all about texture. The combination of dazzling fruit Rosso annual review, this is ‘one of the 50 wines that blackberry and cassis. The fi nish is graceful and silky, supported by plenty of structure makes me think this changed the style of Italian wines.’” but its length remains impressive. This is a terrifi c is one of the few 2007 Riservas that is built for the eff ort that promises a steady evolution ahead.” long haul.” — Signature Team — www.erobertparker.com — www.vinousmedia.com
180 2017-2032 750 ml $117
V 95+ 12624646
240 2018-2026 750 ml $99 120 2017-2030 750 ml $69 36 2020-2035 1.5 L $247
ST 95 GR 12625438 WA 97 11080704 V 95+ 12624718
PERFETTO 26 ITALIA TOSCANA TOSCANA COSTA TOSCANA MAREMMA TOSCANA Duemani Fattoria di Magliano
Luca d’Attoma, owner and winemaker of the Former shoe designer Agostino Lenci decided Duemani (two hands) estate, worked as a consult- to pursue his passion for winemaking in 1996, ant for several prestigious houses such as Tua Rita settling in the Maremma region. He founded the and Le Macchiole before launching his own venture Fattoria di Magliano, selling his first wines in with his partner Elena Celli. Certifi ed biodynamic the early 2000s and quickly became a rising star since 2004, the estate’s seven hectares are planted in the region. The property covers nearly 100 hec- in high density on poor and arid soil. The estate’s tares, 52 of which are planted with vines, most of three parcels are planted with Cabernet Franc, which are local varieties, including Sangiovese Syrah and Merlot respectively. The estate quickly and Vermentino. The estate has also made a go developed an enviable reputation for the produc- with other varieties such as Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet tion of wines that off er fi nesse, grace and elegant Franc and Petit Verdot. Since 2011, the vineyards maturation over extraction. The estate’s Cabernet have been converted to organic production, with Franc wines are certainly some of the very best the wines being certifi ed organic starting with the produced in Italy, if not the entire planet. 2014 vintage.
59 60 ALTROVINO PERENZO 2012 2010 “Made with equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc, “Just 5,000 bottles of this Syrah are produced every only a quarter of the 40,000 bottles produced annually year. It bears the hallmark nose of Italian wine with at the estate are used for this cuvée. Luca d’Attoma, aromas of violet, blackberry and licorice. On the dubbed ‘Tuscany’s prodigal son,’ has produced yet palate, it is soft, sensuous, surprisingly accessible and another truly elegant wine. Full-bodied and possessing already quite seductive. The fi nish has excellent length a wonderful aroma reminiscent of cedar, it has a savoury and notes of ripe red fruit and lavender. Though it character in the mouth that pairs beautifully with its could easily be cellared, this one will be hard to resist ripe, blueberry-dominated fruitiness and a superb drinking right away because it is already quite open fi n i s h o ff ering a hint of licorice. This is a wine with and enjoyable.” lovely, forward tannins; however, you should strongly — Signature Team consider decanting if you don’t have the patience to wait another few years.”
— Signature Team
O U E R I T FAV O U R
450 2022 750 ml $43 480 2025 750 ml $39
ST 92 V 91+ 12657051 ST 91 V 92 WS 92 12626941
PERFETTO 27 ITALIA TOSCANA CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA Fèlsina
Fattoria di Fèlsina, located in the Castelnuovo Q&A WITH Berardenga community, is one of the most illus- trious estates in the southern part of the Chianti Classico region. In 1966, when Domenico Poggiali Giovanni acquired the vast property, it had less than three hectares of vines. With the help of his son Beppe, the vineyard was expanded, and with the further Poggiali help of his son-in-law Giuseppe Mazzocolin, the family farm found its true calling. In 1982, CEO, FÈLSINA Mr. Mazzocolin launched himself full time into the estate leaving behind his former occupation as a teacher. He made the acquaintance of oeno- What makes the Chianti Classico region logist Franco Bernabei and, together, they decided so unique and remarkable? that instead of planting Bordeaux varieties, they would focus heavily on planting Sangiovese across The Chianti Classico appellation is the authentic representa- the 94 hectares that make up the current estate. tion of the Chianti region. It’s an incredible territory, both A remarkable estate! for the great wines it produces and for its natural landscape and history, which reveals itself in a thousand ways—through abbeys, churches, castles, villas, farms and ancient walls, while not forgetting its cuisine and traditional ingredients, deriving from the rich and varied produce of the land. And when discussing history, we should not forget that we 61 are at the heart of Tuscany, halfway between two important RANCIA cities, Florence and Siena, to which Italy—and I would say, Europe and the rest of the world, too—owe fundamental 2011 pages of their culture and civilization. “The nose is discrete and sophisticated, with notes of black cherry, mocha, licorice and incense. In the mouth, however, this is bold wine off ering plenty What makes Sangiovese one of the of volume and an impressive structure. You can tell greatest red varieties in the world, that despite its youth, this is a wine with enormous and why is it so challenging? potential. The tannins are superb and the long black cherry and licorice fi nish is absolutely enchanting. Sangiovese, to me, is the quintessential Italian wine. Its Another remarkable success from a renowned estate.” greatest strength is that it can measure up to traditional local cuisine as well as food from around the world and be — Signature Team equally satisfying when served on its own. How remarkable for a single bottle to off er all these characteristics at once! The Sangiovese vine is challenging because it compels you to respect it, to adapt to its variability and fi ckleness, and to understand its close relationship with the soil from which it grows.
O U E R I T How does Castelnuovo Berardenga FAV O U R stand out from the other terroirs of the Chianti Classico region? 720 2018-2026 750 ml $49
Within Castelnuovo Berardenga, as with all Chianti Classico ST 93-95 WA 94 V 94+ 12625411 wines, there are many diff erent situations. In my opinion, the main features of this part of Chianti are greater exposure to light and to breezes from the Tyrrhenian Sea, which sometimes make their way into the large basin extending between Mount Amiata and the last declining slopes of the Chianti Mountains.
Would you say that the Chianti Classico region has many faces in terms of style? And between traditional and modern, where would Fattoria di Fèlsina stand?
As a matter of fact, the Chianti Classico region is very diverse, even if Sangiovese wines are very recognizable. Fèlsina stands among the estates that can be considered modern because of its innovative methods of working that never- theless show unconditional respect for the soils of every single vineyard. So while we consider ourselves modern, for this reason, we also feel very conservative. TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA CHIANTI CLASSICO VINSANTO DEL CHIANTI GRAN SELEZIONE CLASSICO Fontodi
If the size of a property was the measure of quality and the expression displayed by the range of its products, Fontodi would certainly lead the pack. Owned by the Manetti family since 1968, this 70-hectare estate is located in Panzano in the heart of the Chianti Classico region. Nestled in a veritable amphitheatre of vines, this stunning appellation is known as Conca d’Oro. Giovanni Manetti is the head of this monument to Tuscan winemaking and he leads the charge by producing unparalleled Sangiovese that are complex and successful. Their wines are always sheltered from speculative pricing and their crus are some of the region’s most prized.
62 63 64 FONTALLORO VIGNA DEL SORBO VINSANTO DEL CHIANTI CLASSICO 2010 2011 2004 “The 2010 Fontalloro is 100% Sangiovese sourced “The plush and ripe 2011 Chianti Classico Gran “Ending on a sweet note, both fi guratively and literally, from various vineyards. It starts off with a sassy, playful Selezione Vigna del Sorbo shows a type-A personality the 2004 Vinsanto del Chianti Classico is a pure personality thanks to ripe cherry and forest fruit. The with bold nuances of black cherry, sweet espresso and incarnation of vinous opulence and beauty. The wine complexity of the bouquet builds steadily to include baking spice. It is comprised of 95% Sangiovese and is absolutely stunning, from start to fi nish.... Its thick, mineral, herbs, anisette and dark clay. The chiseled 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and ages for two years in viscous consistency glides over the smooth surfaces mineral tones at the back are outstanding.” French barrel (half the wine) as well as two months of the glass with the soft, slow motion movements of in large oak cask. The opulence and richness defi nitely maple syrup. The bouquet is impossible to forget as — www.erobertparker.com stand out.... Sweet tannins and rich extraction make it leaves notes of honey, brown sugar, roasted nut, up the fi nish.” rum cake, vanilla, white truffl e, candied apricot and moist pipe tobacco fi rmly etched in your memory. The — www.erobertparker.com blend is 50-50 Sangiovese and Malvasia. You don’t drink this wine. You slurp it down instead, savoring each tiny drop.”
— www.erobertparker.com
O U E R I T FAV O U R
450 2018-2025 750 ml $65 750 2017-2023 750 ml $63 150 2029 375 ml $63
WA 94+ 12588294 WA 94 V 94 12625201 ST 95 WA 96 12366106
PERFETTO 29 ITALIA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO Guado al Tasso Il Molino di Grace Siro Pacenti
Though the Antinori family has been growing Located just south of Panzano, in the heart of Founded in 1971, this family estate got its second grapes for 26 generations, the Guado al Tasso Chianti Classico, this estate is named for the his- wind in 1988 when Siro’s son, Giancarlo Pacenti, project is far more recent. Carlotta della Gherardesca torical mill located on the property that dates back jumped aboard and dedicated his life to making Antinori, mother of Piero Antinori, inherited the to the 19th century and for the Grace family who the business fl ourish. A friend of Professor Yves property in 1930, aft er it had already been produc- have owned the estate since 1995. Grapes have been Glories from the time when he was director of the ing wine for two centuries. Located in the extreme grown on the property for over 350 years and their Faculty of Oenology at Bordeaux, Mr. Pacenti was west of Tuscany near the coast, this 1,000-hectare fruit supplied the local producers before the arrival determined to unlock all the secrets the Montalcino estate currently boasts some 300 hectares of of Frank Grace. Mr. Grace transformed the property terroir had to off er. This dedication allowed him to vineyards, and it has greatly contributed to the and acquired the equipment necessary to produce improve the quality of his wine by taking inspira- Bolgheri appellation, which previously specialized fine wine in accordance with his philosophy of tion from the Bordeaux concept of “fi rst and second in the production of white and rosé wines. Though sustainable development. Convinced of the benefi ts château wines.” He is also rightly recognized as a the estate’s fl agship cuvée is Guado al Tasso, their of this type of agricultural practice, he converted pioneer in the new generation of Italian producers Matarocchio has been making ground since the the estate’s 40 hectares to organic production. who take their inspiration from ideas that surpass 2007 vintage. traditional techniques as well as the boundaries of their own country.
65 66 67 MATAROCCHIO IL MARGONE VECCHIE VIGNE 2011 2007 2010 “I was blown away by the 2011 Matarocchio (100% “Located in Greve, where some of the most highly “This brooding version is lean and sinewy in profi le, Cabernet Franc). From 15-year-old vines planted regarded Chiantis are produced, this rich and complex with dusty, chewy tannins gripping the cherry and some 60 meters above sea level on the Tuscan coast, wine is made using modern techniques under the strawberry fruit. This comes around with air, showing this wine is absolutely stunning, delicious and simply guidance of Franco Bernabei. Its aroma is redolent more sweetness and balance.” unforgettable. Only produced in 2007, 2009 and 2011, with ripe cherry, tobacco and a hint of licorice that — www.winespectator.com this third edition shows towering aromas of sensuous also makes a welcome appearance on the palate. dark fruit, leather and tobacco. If Cabernet Franc is The fi nish is long with meltingly soft tannins. Note the darling grape of this appellation, Matarocchio that as of the 2010 vintage, Il Margone will be sold is a reason why. The mouthfeel is penetrating and under the Gran Selezione appellation.” powerful, but seamless and silky smooth at the same — Signature Team time. The tannin management is excellent. This is one to keep in the cellar.”
— www.erobertparker.com
O U E R I T FAV O U R
150 2031 750 ml $300 1 200 2019 750 ml $35 354 2018-2028 750 ml $105
WA 97 11650789 ST 92 WS 94 12616638 WS 95 10468740
PERFETTO 30 ITALIA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA CARMIGNANO RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA Piaggia Il Poggione
Convinced of the enormous potential offered Wine Advocate’s Monica Larner has declared by Carmignano, a region located to the west of the father-son duo of Fabrizio and Alessandro Florence, Mauro Vannucci acquired his land in Bindocci the most accomplished in Italy. Their the mid-1970s. Sangiovese, the region’s fl agship meticulousness at the vines and in the cellar have variety, takes up the lion’s share of his vineyards, raised Leopoldo and Livia Franceschi’s estate but Cabernet Sauvignon, which has also been to the peak of the appellation. In the heart of the grown in the region since the late 18th century, Val d’Orcia, just a few kilometres from Montalcino, is also grown at the estate, providing 20% of the lies Il Poggione, nestled in the picturesque town blend for some of their wines. The estate currently of Sant’Angelo in Colle. Covering 125 hectares, the covers 15 hectares of vines and is skilfully managed estate is one of the largest in the region. One of by his daughter Silvia. Distinctly modern in their the original trio behind the Brunello di Montalcino approach to winemaking, the Vannuccis now prefer appellation, its history goes back to the late 1800s. longer maceration times with gentler extraction, The estate prefers a traditional approach and is allowing the fruit to emerge with a remarkable proud of it. It boasts that Il Poggione is a return purity of character. to the classics, and it will make you feel like you are truly at home!
68 69 70 CARMIGNANO RISERVA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO VIGNA PAGANELLI 2011 2010 2007 “This time the Carmignano Riserva ’11 is on best form. “The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is a striking wine “Il Poggione’s 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva This has always been Piaggia’s ‘grand vin,’ but this that shows uncompromising varietal pureness, albeit Vigna Paganelli is utterly stunning, but it is surpris- vintage displays the winery’s signature rich extract, in a most concentrated and elaborate form. This is ingly tannic and huge for a vintage in which so many without excess, charming hints of marasca cherries what great Sangiovese is all about. There’s so much wines are much more approachable. Layers of dark red and red and black berries, and its classic spicy nuances happening on the nose and the wine brings you to stone fruit open up on the palate, followed by sweet of tobacco and balsam. Above all, the palate is soft cherry, spice, licorice, cured meat, pressed rose and spices, savory herbs and mint. Beautifully perfumed and satisfying, succulent but edgy, with beautifully grilled meat in equal measure. No one element over- and expressive throughout, the 2007 is a jewel of mellow tannins and a very lingering fl avour.” powers the next. The mouthfeel is also tight and bright a wine. The only thing it needs is time.” with the kind of fruit intensity that promises long — Italian Wines 2015, Gambero Rosso — www.vinousmedia.com cellar aging. This Brunello is only at the beginning of a long road ahead. The longer the wine stays in the glass, the more it off ers in terms of complexity and intensity.”
— www.erobertparker.com
600 2023 750 ml $49 450 2018-2025 750 ml $54 90 2017-2037 750 ml $85
V 94 GR 12624531 WA 98 12634668 V 96 12413822
PERFETTO 31 ITALIA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA Luce della Vite
The Luce della Vite estate (“light of life”) is the fruit of a project launched in 1990 by Vittorio Frescobaldi and Robert Mondavi. A project that unites two winemaking visions over two conti- nents. Their sons Lamberto Frescobaldi and Tim Mondavi blend Sangiovese and Merlot to create an exceptional Tuscan from the heart of the presti- gious Brunello di Montalcino appellation, a fi rst for the region. Since the beginning of the 2000s, Lamberto Frescobaldi has been the sole head of the estate, producing a tiny amount of Brunello di Montalcino with fruit taken from just fi ve of the estate’s 77 hectares.
7 1 7 2 7 3 LUCE LUCE LUCE 2004 2001 1999 “Refined and balanced style. Subtle aromas and “The 2001 Luce, the best made to date, underscores “A cool, reserved bouquet of sweet dried cherry, flavors of ripe fruits, dried flowers and aniseed. just how well Merlot works with Sangiovese, fi lling truffl e, licorice and spice highlights this red. Fresh, Full, yet very fi ne.” out the frame and softening some of the asperities, elegant, complex and harmonious, fi rmly structured just as its does with Cabernet in Bordeaux. A full ruby and long. Ready to enjoy now, but there’s no rush.” — www.jamessuckling.com in color, ripe, intense, spicy and penetrating in aroma, — www.winespectator.com the wine is packed on the palate, broad, substantial and long, and with the muscles and velvet that only the classiest of wines manage to exhibit.”
— www.erobertparker.com
60 2024 750 ml $185 60 2021 750 ml $211 54 2019 750 ml $211
JS 92 12694695 WA 93 12694687 WS 95 12694732
PERFETTO 32 ITALIA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA Le Macchiole
Before his unfortunate passing at the young age of 40, Eugenio Campolmi was one of the Bolgheri region’s pioneers in the early 1980s, along with Marquis Incisa della Rocchetta, who created the renowned Sassicaia. He quickly learned that the best results could be obtained by using French varieties rather than Italian. His wife Cinzia Merli took the reins at the estate aft er Mr. Campolmi’s passing and she is still in charge today. With the help of renowned oenologist Luca d’Attoma, they produce sensational, prodigious wines. The estate’s 24 hectares of vines are tended organically, produ- cing fi ve distinct cuvées, including the renowned Paleo Rosso (Cabernet Franc), Scrio (Syrah) and Messorio (Merlot) that are a testament to the winemaking skill of this Tuscan estate.
7 4 7 5 7 6 PALEO ROSSO SCRIO MESSORIO 2011 2011 2011 “The 2011 Paleo Rosso gives you every reason to fall “The 2011 Scrio (100% Syrah) is the vintage darling. “The 2011 Messorio takes hold of all the senses and in love. What impresses the most is the fl oral imprint The wine boasts abundant varietal character with black never lets up. Rich and explosive to the core, the 2011 this 100% Cabernet Franc off ers on the bouquet. fruit and morello cherry in center stage. Asian spice boasts stunning intensity and depth. Today, the It’s really quite remarkable: Pressed rose and dried and barbecue smoke round off the edges, and the 2011 is painfully young and packed with tannin. lavender are almost perfume-like in intensity. In wine delivers a lavish dose of crushed stone, soda, blue Even with all of its size, the 2011 retains gorgeous fact, I can’t remember a past edition of Paleo with fl ower and smoked bacon as well. It stands tall with aromatic complexity and tons of nuance. This is a a bouquet of this unique caliber. It boasts a huge wide shoulders, supported by fi nely etched tannins, fabulous showing from Le Macchiole.” sense of textural richness, with polished tannins and thick concentration and a bright spot of acidity on — www.vinousmedia.com thick, dark extraction. The 2011 Paleo is particularly the long fi nish.” monumental in the mouth.” — www.erobertparker.com — www.erobertparker.com
210 2031 750 ml $99 60 2026 750 ml $165 84 2018-2031 750 ml $232
WA 95 GR 12640224 WA 96 V 95+ 12640267 V 96 12640208
PERFETTO 33 ITALIA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA TOSCANA VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE Montevertine Poliziano Tolaini Sergio Manetti acquired this property nestled in Dino Carletti acquired this 22-hectare estate in Radda, south of Florence, in 1967. The regulations the Montepulciano community in 1961. The estate Bathed by the Tuscan sun, this estate is a show- in eff ect at the time stipulated that Chianti Classico is now a reference for the appellation and is currently case for the beauty of Bordeaux varieties grown on had to be a blend. Mr. Manetti, however, dreamt of run by the founder’s son Federico Carletti. Driven Italian soil. Founded by Italian Canadian Pier Luigi a diff erent wine that would reveal the splendour by his dynamism and passion, he expanded the Tolaini, half of this 100-hectare property is dedi- that Tuscany’s emblematic variety Sangiovese 125-hectare Montepulciano estate and then created cated to vineyards. Located in the heart of Chianti had to off er. Produced since 1979 with the help two further estates, one in Cortona (7 hectares) and in the renowned village of Castelnuovo Berardenga, of the late oenologist Giulio Gambelli, Le Pergole the other in Maremma (28 hectares). Asinone is this property vinifies each of its parcels with Torte bears witness to the terroir of Chianti’s Radda beyond doubt the jewel of the estate and part of distinction under the watchful eye of consulting region and the beauty that the fi ckle variety has the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano appellation. oenologist Michel Rolland. The recipient of several to off er when in a solo role. Sold at the outset as Federico understands how to express a modern international distinctions, this estate was founded a vino da tavola, the wine has had no diffi culty vision for wine while still respecting local tra di- in 1998 and quickly became a point of reference fi nding takers thanks to its exceptional quality. tions, especially when it comes to the generous for the region, and its remarkable ascension is Mr. Manetti passed away in 2000, leaving the use of Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese). still on the rise. According to the estate’s owner, estate to his son Martino, who oversees the pro- Mr. Tolaini, this is because of their constant “search duction of one of the most elegant and refined for excellence” when it comes to selecting the best expressions of Sangiovese. fruit possible and by applying a combination of traditional knowledge and modern technology. 7 7 7 8 7 9 LE PERGOLE TORTE ASINONE MONTEBELLO VIGNETO N° 7 2011 2010 2011 “A vivid, beautiful wine, the 2011 Pergole Torte is “Named Schiena d’Asino because it rises above its “Only the very best vintages allow for the production superb. Warm, early-maturing harvests often surroundings like the back of a donkey, this 14-hectare of this cuvée. 2011 was the fi rst year for the Gran attenuate the diff erences between sites, but not vineyard is home to the noble Asinone made from the Selezione grade at Tolaini. Prior to 2011, the cuvée here. The old vines weathered the heat better, estate’s oldest vines, which were planted in 1963. was released under the name Riserva. Made from the resulting in a wine that is very much in line with the The estate’s top off ering, the Prugnolo Gentile owes its Numero Sette vineyard, unique to Montebello, this past, but with more body, amplitude and resonance. magnifi cent concentration and unparalleled defi nition Chianti undergoes triage at the vine as well as post- Rose petals, bright red stone fruits and mint are some to a 16- to 18-month maturation in French oak barrels. harvest. Its maturation is conducted on wood, fi ne of the many notes that grace the super-expressive The intensity of its colour and aroma is mirrored on lees, stainless steel and fi nally in the bottle, resulting fi nish. The 2011 spent one year in French oak barrels the palate, off ering excellent tension and a dense, in a superb body, refi ned elegance and a profi le that is and a second year in casks.” tight and seemingly endless mouthfeel, with hints of reminiscent of bay, olive, cherry, dried fl owers and cedar. fresh herbs, blackcurrant, leather, plum and cherry.” This exceptional star will shine for a very long time!” — www.vinousmedia.com — Signature Team — Signature Team
O U E R I T FAV O U R
78 2019-2031 750 ml $128 300 2025 750 ml $53 900 2022 750 ml $42
V 97 GR 12640275 ST 94 V 93 12625235 ST 92 WA 91 12612143
PERFETTO 34 ITALIA TOSCANA TOSCANA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO TOSCANA Valdicava Viticcio
Valdicava’s motto, genius loci, means respecting Owned by the Landini family, this estate drew its the spirit of each of their wines’ location. Valdicava fi rst breaths thanks to the eff orts of Lucio Landini. has been producing Brunellos under this name for An engineer by trade, this lover of Chianti Classico, more than 50 years, and the estate believes strongly supported by his wife, took over in the early 1960s, that great wines are made at the vine. They prefer taking the formerly high-volume business and to take a more traditional approach to winemaking, turning it on its head. Motivated by his desire to using Slavonian oak barrels. Only roughly 30 of produce wines of irreproachable quality, he in- the estate’s 120 hectares are planted with vines novated and introduced a philosophy of respect and they only grow Sangiovese. This estate has for the environment. Currently, almost all of been receiving rave reviews for more than 25 years the estate’s vines are tended using biodynamic and is most assuredly one of the best producers principles and Viticcio is all the better for it, to explore if you are a lover of Tuscan wines. earning a well-deserved reputation for excellence. Alessandro Landini now continues the tradition begun by his father with the help of his own family.
80 81 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO PRUNAIO 2006 2011 “The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino fl ows with gorgeous “Plush, with a deft use of new oak, this dark red layers of dark red fruit. This is one of the more muscular, delivers black cherry, plum and spice fl avors. Elegant virile wines of the vintage. Slow to reveal its character, rather than powerful, with fi ne intensity and a fl uid line the Valdicava Brunello will require signifi cant patience, from start to fi nish. The tannins are present, refi ned but I have seen the wine blossom beautifully, even and well integrated. Off ers a long, spice-fi lled after- in the smallest of vintages. A blast of iron, smoke, taste. Sangiovese.” tar, licorice and new leather inform the deep, intense — www.winespectator.com fi nish. This is a hugely promising, brilliant Brunello from proprietor Vincenzo Abbruzzese, but it needs to be buried in the cellar for at least a few years. Readers who can’t wait should open the wine a few hours in advance, which will allow the fruit to emerge.”
— www.erobertparker.com
150 2031 750 ml $124 450 2018-2026 750 ml $49
WA 95+ WS 95 12626975 ST 90-92 WS 92 12626924
PERFETTO 35 ITALIA ABRUZZO COLLINE TEATINE Masciarelli
The Masciarelli estate was founded in 1978 by Gianni Masciarelli and is currently the fl agship of Abruzzo wines. It produces over 2 million bottles annually in addition to being the point of origin for many of the region’s most successful wines. Mr. Masciarelli met Marina Cvetić in 1987 during a trip to Croatia. She joined him at the vineyards a short while later and six months aft er that they were married. A full range of wines honours her name to give thanks for her involvement in the creative process. Following Mr. Masciarelli’s tragic passing in 2008, she took the helm of the Masciarelli estate and she continues to pursue his vision to this day.
82 MARINA CVETIĆ CHARDONNAY 2012 “Produced since 1991, this superb Chardonnay has a beautiful golden yellow colour, with intense aromas of fl owers, exotic fruit (pineapple, mango and banana) as well as woody and spicy notes that add to its complex- ity and evoke additional accents of coconut, smoke, vanilla and butter. The 23 months spent in 100% new oak barrels is defi nitely apparent. As the wine warms following aeration, the mouthfeel is imposing with an oily texture and full body. The persistent fi nish leaves us with seductive pear, almond, honey and apricot notes. Modern and thoroughly convincing!”
— Signature Team
300 2020 750 ml $43
ST 90 12635100
PERFETTO 36 ITALIA ABRUZZO ABRUZZO ABRUZZO TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO Valentini Emidio Pepe
Known as “mythic winemakers” by their peers for Located in the hills of Torano Nuovo in the province their traditional and exceptional work, the Valentini of Teramo, this estate is a fl agship for the Abruzzo family has been producing wines in the Abruzzo region. They have been producing wine here since region since the 17th century. The vineyard covers the late 19th century and their production phil- 60 hectares and is tended in the most traditional osophy has stayed the same since 1964, the year way, using vines in pergolas and biodynamic that Emidio Pepe took the reins of the property. principles. Almost the entire production is sold Fift y years later, their agricultural methods have to the local cooperative, holding back only a tiny not changed, though they have converted to bio- percentage of the very highest quality to produce dynamic production in the most natural manner their three wines: a rosé (Cerasuolo), a red made possible. Mr. Pepe’s daughters Sofi a and Daniela from Montepulciano and a white made from and his granddaughter Chiara now work along- Trebbiano. They prefer to avoid intervention as side him, perpetuating the family’s tradition and much as possible with no added yeast, fi ltration and winemaking skill. The potential of these wines only the smallest amount of sulphur. The Valentini as well as their unique and traditional character family produces wines that are rare, complex and speak volumes. singular with impressive cellaring ability.
83 84 85 MARINA CVETIĆ RISERVA TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO 2012 2010 2003 “The Trebbiano used to make this cuvée averages “Vivid straw-yellow. Knockout nose off ers an exception- “Pepe’s 2003 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a bomb. 50 years of age. The vines come from two distinct ally wide spectrum of aromas: fresh quince, tangerine, Tar, leather, scorched earth and black fruit emerge vineyards that cover fi ve hectares in total. Fermented dried apricot, minerals and chamomile, complicated from this dark, imposing Montepulciano. The wine and then matured for 22 months in 100% new oak by jasmine, lemon verbena and white stone fruits. comes together beautifully in the glass, as the aromas barrels, this wine exudes intoxicating aromas of honey Densely packed, utterly seamless and powerful, with and fl avors gain breadth and dimension. Despite the and candied fruit (pineapple and grapefruit) as well slowly building, highly concentrated fl avors of under- rich style, there is nothing excessive or overripe here, as woody notes with hints of marzipan, sweet spice, ripe pineapple, lime, wet stone and lemon custard. just exceptional balance of ripe fruit as captured by caramel, vanilla and barley sugar. The mouthfeel is Wonderfully silky and complex, but very backward a traditional approach to vinifi cation. A fi nal blast of imposing and generous. A perfect dose of acidity today, with a laser beam of acidity providing lift and tar informs the long fi nish. Pepe fans will fl ip over the lends an essential element to this wine’s character, focus. Finishes energetic and extremely long, with 2003, but readers who prefer subtlety over power will contributing greatly to its balance and persistence. repeating lemony minerality. This has all the elements want to cellar this for a few years to allow for some Serve this wine blind and it will pleasantly surprise for future greatness and is potentially the best of the baby fat to melt away.” your keenest wine-loving friends.” Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from Valentini in years.” — www.vinousmedia.com — Signature Team — www.vinousmedia.com
360 2019 750 ml $43 120 2018-2035 750 ml $123 180 2028 750 ml $83
ST 91 12612901 V 96+ GR 12154939 V 94 WS 93 12628621
PERFETTO 37 ITALIA ABRUZZO UMBRIA LAZIO MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO UMBRIA LAZIO Torre dei Beati Lamborghini Falesco
Torre dei Beati is located in the Abruzzo region, The Lamborghini estate is located in the heart of In 1979, brothers Renzo and Riccardo Cotarella just east of Rome, along the Adriatic coast. Grown Italy between Lake Trasimeno and the village brought an abandoned vineyard back to life in the using organic production, the 21 hectares of vines of Panicale in Umbria. The estate’s history began in Latium region and thus was born the Falesco estate are influenced by the climate of the Apennine the 1970s when Ferruccio Lamborghini decided to in Montefi ascone. One is the current director of the Mountains, providing cool nights and a warm retire from the automobile business and go back Antinori house and the other, in addition to being wind coming in from the Adriatic during the day. to his farming roots by purchasing a 100-hectare one of the best-reputed consulting oenologists Adriana Galasso and her husband Fausto Albanesi property divided between a 9-hole golf course and in Italy, continues to direct the estate and its are purists in the vineyard as well as in the cellar. a 32-hectare viticultural estate located in abso- vineyards with mastery. In 1999, the vineyards Their goal is to respect nature as well as tradition lutely idyllic surroundings. His daughter Patrizia were expanded and they now extend into the and to harvest only the very best grapes. The results currently oversees the 20 hectares of vines and is neighbouring region of Umbria. From the very of this eff ort are wines with purity that respect in the process of modernizing the estate’s cellars beginning, they focused on the unique character their terroir. Cocciapazza (“crazy head” in the local and vineyards. of their indigenous varieties, including Aleatico, Abruzzo dialect) is a point of reference within the Roscetto and Sagrantino, and on the incomparable Montepulciano d’Abruzzo appellation. versatility off ered by international varieties such as Merlot, Syrah and Viognier, to name a few. Montiano, the estate’s fl agship cuvée, shows the skill and know-how brought by the Cotarella family.
86 87 88 COCCIAPAZZA CAMPOLEONE MONTIANO 2012 2011 2012 “The seductive nose calls to mind blackberries, blue- “Made from equal parts Sangiovese and Merlot, “Produced since 1993, Montiano is made entirely berries, violets and chocolate complemented by accents Campoleone is Lamborghini’s fl agship wine. Produced from meticulously selected Merlot and is aged for of wood and spice. The mouthfeel is reasonably full- from vineyards located inside the Lake Trasimeno 12 months in French oak barrels. The 2012 vintage bodied, fresh and structured. More time will allow it to region, it spends 12 months maturing in barrels and features a subtle jammy fruit character, licorice, fully open and gain in defi nition, but it already has an then a further six months in the bottle. This wine is still graphite and black cherry with hints of spice and interesting body, especially for the appellation. Though at the earliest point of its lifespan, featuring aromas a light lactic note. Undeniably charming, this wine the region sometimes produces wines with either a of plum, wet earth, tobacco, roast and spice. Marked has spectacular concentration and its tannins provide rustic character or opulent, modern wines, this one by a beautiful freshness, its tannic structure will only a welcome freshness. Long and stylish, this vintage is sophisticated and direct with a perfect balance.” become more polished in the coming years. This is an is sure to age gracefully. An excellent value!” excellent introduction to what Umbria has to off er.” — Signature Team — Signature Team — Signature Team
O U E R I T FAV O U R
600 2018-2022 750 ml $34 300 2017-2021 750 ml $42 900 2025 750 ml $40
ST 90-92 12628567 ST 90 12624700 ST 93 GR 12625067
PERFETTO 38 ITALIA CAMPANIA TERRE DEL VOLTURNO Alois
Having built himself an enviable reputation as a manufacturer of artisan silk, Michele Alois’ dream of founding his own winemaking estate remained as strong as ever. In 1992, in partnership with the University of Naples, he planted, along with his son Massimo, his first vines on the land where he was born, convinced of the estate’s enormous potential. Located at the foot of the Caiatini Hills in the province of Caserta, he planted indigen- ous varieties, including Aglianico, Casavecchia, Falanghina as well as Pallagrello Bianco and Nero. Their skilful pairing of cutting-edge tech nology and tradition as well as the contribution of renowned consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarella and a skilled team of workers allows them to produce some truly excellent wines.
89 TREBULANUM 2011 “The Trebulanum cuvée from Campania in the Terre del Volturno appellation is made using the local Casavecchia variety. Matured on wood for 18 months, this wine has a surprising aromatic character with notes of cherry, blackcurrant and spice. It has a powerful presence in the mouth with a fruity attack and young tannins that end on a toasted note with a hint of tobacco. A wine with excellent aging potential.”
— Signature Team
600 2020-2030 750 ml $44
ST 90-92 12628604
PERFETTO 39 ITALIA CAMPANIA FIANO DI AVELLINO Colli di Lapio
Southwest of Lapio in the province of Avellino’s Q&A WITH Arianiello region, Colli di Lapio is an emerging estate that is breathing a new wind of dynamism into Campania. Founded in 1994, this family Clelia Romano prop erty is well managed by Clelia Romano, her husband Angelo and their children Federico and Carmela. Working in close collaboration FROM COLLI DI LAPIO with experienced oenologist Angelo Pizzi and agricultural engineer Maurizio Petrillo, the true magic of the Fiano and Aglianico varieties is What makes the Campania and Irpinia regions so unique and remarkable? expressed thanks to the vineyard’s location at 500 metres above sea level, which allows the Since the Roman era, Campania has been considered a real fruit to reach ideal ripeness. Their Fiano di Avellino Grand Cru of wine production. They called the region is one of the most vibrant and pure white wines Campania felix (“happy Campania”) to underline the great- in the country, and their Taurasi is an authentic ness of the wines coming from this land. The equivalent of and powerful red that is both sophisticated modern Burgundy and Bordeaux wines for the Romans was and breathtaking! the Campanian Cecubo and Falerno, made from the same varieties used now, Aglianico and Piedirosso. White grapes were also cultivated at the time, including Greco, Falanghina and Fiano, whose name originated from Lapio, the Roman Apianae. The importance of this terroir has been recognized for more than 2,000 years. Campania can be historically 90 considered the fi rst area in Italy to produce quality wines! FIANO DI AVELLINO 2013 Can you tell us more about Fiano and Aglianico? “The Fiano 2013 is good now, but will be great in the future. It opens slowly to aromas of hay, wildflowers These two varieties have a deep history in this region. and elegant hints of spice, giving depth to an incisive For a long time, the potential of Aglianico and Fiano was palate that expands and lengthens, with pervasive underrated, and from the 1970s until the beginning of the flavour and vibrant citrus. Its acidity will stand it in 1990s, a large portion of Aglianico was sold in bulk to add good stead for the future.” structure to iconic Tuscan wines. You’ll perhaps detect — Italian Wines 2015, Gambero Rosso peppery notes unusual for an old Sangiovese—that would be the Aglianico touch. Fiano and Aglianico’s characteristics mean they only produce great wines in specifi c terroirs:
1. Volcanic soil : It’s not a coincidence that the best Aglianico wines are from old volcanic sites—Taurasi, Vesuvio Lacryma Christi, Aglianico del Vulture and Roccamonfi na (Terra di Lavoro and other Super Campania wines). Taurasi is called “Barolo of the south” because of its great aging potential.
2. Altitude : The best Fiano grapes grow 500 to 650 metres above sea level. At this altitude, the cool nights improve the aromatic components of the fi nal product and permit a fairly 750 2021 750 ml $31 late harvest for white grapes (second or third week of October), giving the wine good structure, acidity and a GR 12625104 typically mineral profi le.
Is Campania more of a white or red wine region?
The percentage is around 50/50, but in terms of DOC/ DOCG wines, we have a prevalence of whites.
What wine, region or country inspires you the most, and why?
The inspiration for Fiano di Avellino is certainly the Loire; like the Sauvignon from the Loire, the Fiano can off er elegant and vibrant wines with great aging potential. For Taurasi, we prefer to look at great Italian reds from single varieties: Barolo and Barbaresco from Piedmont, and Brunello di Montalcino from Tuscany. CAMPANIA CAMPANIA CAMPANIA TAURASI ROCCAMONFINA COLLI DI SALERNO Galardi Montevetrano
Cousins Maria Luisa Murena, Arturo and Dora The Montevetrano project became a reality in 1985 Celentano, and Francesco Catello joined forces following the planting of Cabernet Sauvignon, in 1991 to found this estate in northwestern Merlot and Aglianico near Salerno in Campania. Campania near Latium. The 10-hectare winery is Taurasi, the region’s emblematic wine, is tradition– certifi ed organic, growing indigenous varieties, ally made using Aglianico, but a group of wine- including Aglianico and Piedirosso, along the loving friends wanted to create a diff erent type slopes of the Roccamonfi na Volcano at an altitude of wine heavily infl uenced by their appreciation of of 400 metres. Since its founding, the estate has wines from Bordeaux. Their annual production is worked closely with Riccardo Cotarella, one of extremely sought-aft er and very limited, with only Italy’s most renowned oenologists, to produce 30,000 bottles made from just five hectares of their unique Terra di Lavoro (“soil of labour”), vines. Silvia Imparato, the estate’s owner, claims which is named in homage to the extremely rocky that even she is impressed by the quality of the soil where their vines grow. wines produced by this long-shot idea, especially since the wines were only supposed to be shared among friends.
91 92 93 ANDREA TERRA DI LAVORO COLLI DI SALERNO 2010 2010 2011 “In 2000, a new challenge called Andrea began. It is “An exotic mélange of tar, smoke, graphite, blackberry “Saturated medium-red. Tangy red cherry and rasp- a Taurasi DOCG wine which follows the qualitative jam and savory herbs explode from the glass. The berry aromas are complicated by expressive musky imprint already traced by Fiano. Andrea is a Taurasi 2010 is intense and full-bodied, yet also incredibly soil tones and fresh fl owers. Sweet, fruity and vibrant, produced exclusively from Aglianico grapes, with a elegant. A big, breathtaking wine, the 2010 continues with fl avors of red cherry, black pepper and dried ruby red colour, intense smell with scents of morello to build all the way through to a deeply resonant, fl owers complicated by a saline nuance. Finishes very cherry and wild cherries. It has a smooth taste with expressive fi nish. I would choose to leave this utterly long and brisk, with excellent grip and fi ne-grained well-tapered tannins.” beguiling Campanian red alone for the better part of a tannins. This is one of the best Montevetrano wines in decade, but readers are going to have a very hard many years, with really lovely, juicy energy. Perhaps — www.collidilapio.it time exercising that patience. This is a fabulous having included a little more Aglianico than usual eff ort from proprietors Arturo and Dora Celentano, has helped? A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and their long-time winemaker Riccardo Cotarella.” and Aglianico.”
— www.vinousmedia.com — www.vinousmedia.com
240 2030 750 ml $49 168 2020-2035 750 ml $92 150 2018-2026 750 ml $75
WA 94+ (2008 VINTAGE) 12625091 V 97+ GR 12336724 V 93 GR 12625382
PERFETTO 41 ITALIA PUGLIA GIOIA DEL COLLE Polvanera
Polvanera refers to the dark soil that surrounds this relatively new estate founded by Filippo Cassano in 2003. Driven by an unshakable desire to show the winemaking world what 60-year-old Primitivo vines could off er, he lovingly restored this aging estate in a rural part of Marchesana. From its 55 hectares of organically tended vines, the estate has completely reinvented the Gioia del Colle appellation with its powerful, heady wines and their remarkable balance and distinct freshness. This is an excellent introduction to the best of Puglia with its exceptional expression of Primitivo that is sure to please lovers of exuberant and gutsy wines.
94 PRIMITIVO 17 VIGNETO MONTEVELLA 2011 “Their Primitivos manage to combine alcoholic fullness and fi rm structure with a surprising freshness and richness of fl avour. Yet another big hit from the Gioia del Colle Primitivo 17 Vigneto Montevella 2011, with hints of spice and black berry fruit on the nose and a leisurely, compact palate, which is also pleasingly fresh.”
— Italian Wines 2015, Gambero Rosso
888 2021 750 ml $34
GR 12629519
PERFETTO 42 ITALIA SICILIA SICILIA SICILIA TERRE SICILIANE TERRE SICILIANE TERRE SICILIANE COS Passopisciaro
When the COS (Cilia, Occhipinti, Strano) venture Andrea Franchetti left Tenuta di Trinoro in Tuscany was launched in 1980, the three winemakers were to launch his own project in Sicily in 2000. Some the youngest in Italy. The trio began with only called him crazy while others thought he was three acres of land, but have now expanded to a genius. In love with the region, he settled for over 30. Two of the three original members are nothing less than the northern face of Etna, the still working together, and their focus has never most active volcano in Europe. Similar to Barolo and wavered from expressing the maximum their terroir the climate of Burgundy, one of the Passopisciaro has to off er, using the least amount of intervention estate’s particularities is its crus, or “contradas.” possible. Precursors of biodynamic agriculture, The fi ve distinct vineyards are set in fi ve diff erent they innovated with the use of amphoras in the former lava fields. His wines benefit from the wine making process. The amphoras provide unique soil and climate conditions, giving them thermal inertia and off er optimal fruit preservation. their authenticity and complexity. This region of Their collection is truly impressive and is one of Sicily, where few dare tread, rewards his bravery the largest in the world. Running opposite to the with excellence at every vintage. gutsy and rough wines produced on the island, this azienda focuses instead on making wines that are elegant and easy drinking. COS is without a doubt a leader of Sicilian winemaking. 95 96 97 PITHOS BIANCO GUARDIOLA TERRE SICILIANE 2013 2013 2012 “Pithos Bianco is a pure expression of Grecanico “Made with 100% Chardonnay, this wine comes from “Very pale crimson. Heady nose of macerated griotte macerated on its skins for seven months in clay am- a 4-hectare vineyard sitting at 1,000 metres above cherries. A hint of orange peel. A warm, pretty alco- phorae that are buried underground.… To be expected sea level on the north face of Mount Etna, in north- holic undertow. Then lots of refreshing acidity and from a white wine that sees extended skin contact, eastern Sicily. This is a modern wine with pleasant the grainy textural fi nish of a fi ne Etna wine. Bone the wine shows a tannic bite and fi rm supporting fl oral and apple aromas, and a subtle hint of petroleum. dry and very refreshing though not to be attempted structure. The mouthfeel is dry to the point of feeling Buoyed by a fresh acidity, the fl avours are long and without food. This suggests it could be enjoyed with dusty, with the alcohol registering at a low 10.5% generous. This wine is the reason that Passopisciaro is fi rm fi sh. Bring on the Catania market fi sh restaurant, (although it feels warmer). Even if you are not a fan one of the leaders in the recent qualitative ascension please! Uncompromisingly true to its origins. Not for of the “orange” school of winemaking, there is no of Etna wines.” neophytes. Quite open on the nose.” denying this wine’s profound appeal.” — Signature Team — www.jancisrobinson.com — www.erobertparker.com
576 2020 750 ml $39 180 2019 750 ml $45 300 2020 750 ml $52
WA 95 (2012 VINTAGE) 12625403 ST 90 12629455 JR 17 12628495
PERFETTO 43 ITALIA SICILIA SICILIA SICILIA CERASUOLO DI VITTORIA CLASSICO SICILIA FARO Occhipinti Palari
From a young age, Arianna Occhipinti knew that Located in northern Sicily’s Messina Hills, the she wanted to make her own wine. Still in her Palari estate was founded in 1990 by Salvatore early 30s, she doesn’t hesitate to create wines Geraci. Their first wines were produced with that run opposite to the rugged and sun-drenched the help of Piedmont-based oenologist Donato wines typically associated with Sicily. Like her Lanati. The minuscule Faro appellation is located uncle Giusto Occhipinti from COS with whom on extremely steep hillside terraces that face she shares a passion for wine, she has adopted a neighbouring Calabria. The estate focuses on less interventionist approach to winemaking the production of indigenous varieties, including with no synthetics, preferring to make wines that Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Nocera, are easy drinking and elegant. In 2014, following which they use for their wines. With the help of studies in oenology in Milan, she searched Vittoria his brother Giampaolo, an agricultural engineer, in southern Sicily for the perfect terroir before trained architect Salvatore Geraci directs the making the leap. This talented and brilliant young property with charm and aplomb. They excel at winemaker believes that “a natural approach is not the production of sophisticated and elegant wines, a goal but a means to produce the best possible whose reputation extends well beyond the island wines that refl ect the terroir.” where they are produced.
98 99 100 GROTTE ALTE ROSSO DEL SOPRANO FARO 2010 2011 2009 “This fl agship wine from the Occhipinti estate comes “Remarkable defi nition and precision in a red that “With fruit harvested at the end of September or from the Cerasuolo di Vittoria appellation located is sure to reconcile everyone in Sicily. Dominated by the beginning of October, the 2009 Faro Palari is in the southeastern region of the island. It is pro- Nerello Mascalese, it also has Nerello Cappuccio, Nocera fi rm and static, with solid aromas of dried raspberry, duced from equal shares of Sicilian varieties Frappato and a few other indigenous varieties. Its incomparable iron, wet earthy [sic] and anisette seed that rise from and Nero d’Avola. Following long maceration and freshness serves as the backbone for a magnifi cent the glass. This edition of Faro Palari seems to take fermentation, the wine is then put into Slovenian directness, creating an elegant, silky and clean wine. longer to evolve in the glass, boding well for its future oak barrels for 48 months. This seductive wine has The aromas are plentiful with cherry, chocolate, evolution. The 2009 vintage is broad and brawny with plenty of licorice, tarragon and black cherry aromas. leather, cooked fruit, plum, cedar and tobacco accom- a masculine personality.” It is full-bodied, rich and structured with fi rm, long panied by toasted notes. A quality Sicilian off ering — www.erobertparker.com tannins and a mineral fi nish.” immediate pleasure and moderate cellaring ability. A true charmer that won over the entire team.” — Signature Team — Signature Team
O U E R I T FAV O U R
60 2022 750 ml $68 750 2021 750 ml $38 300 2019 750 ml $69
ST 92 12613939 ST 90 GR 12629295 WA 91-93 GR 12629391
PERFETTO 44 ITALIA SICILIA SICILIA SARDEGNA ETNA ROSSO MARSALA SUPERIORE ORO ISOLA DEI NURAGHI Tenuta delle Terre Nere Marco de Bartoli Argiolas
Founded by Marco and Iano de Grazia, this estate This legendary Samperi producer is located in the To use the words of Antonio Galloni from the Robert is located on the volcanic soil of Mount Etna. Marco is Marsala region of western Sicily. Marco de Bartoli, Parker website, Argiolas has accomplished so much, passionate about wine and is an accomplished taster a former race car driver, was a pioneer in many so perfectly that it is hard to decide where to begin! as well as a fervent defender of local Italian varieties. regards. He was also an indefatigable defender The Argiolas family founded the fi rst Sardinian He also previously represented several renowned of Marsala, one of the most underrated wines vineyard and has been growing grapes since 1918. Italian producers before founding his own estate in the world. In the 1970s, Mr. de Bartoli had The estate’s mission is to produce cuvées using with his brother Iano. The germ of their concept had enough of industrially produced wine and only varieties that were historically grown on the was that the climate of Etna is the exception that decided it was time to take action. Not only did island. The man behind the Turriga appellation proves the rule in Sicily. Marco prefers to present he save authentic Marsala from extinction, he also is none other than Giacomo Tachis, father of the his wines as being produced in the “Burgundy of the helped the wine to regain its noble heritage. He prestigious “Super Tuscans” Sassicaia, Tignanello Mediterranean.” As one of the best winemakers on has since become a source of inspiration for and Solaia. Not only is he behind this sublime cru, the planet, he believes that great wines start at the the entire Marsala region. His children Renato, he also worked hard to expand and make the most vine and he prefers a non-interventionist approach Sebastiano and Giuseppina are working diligently of the potential quality the property has to off er. in the cellar. Critics quickly lauded his wines and at the estate to maintain the legacy their father The third generation is at the helm of the estate dubbed him the “Grand Master” of local varieties worked so hard to attain before his passing in 2011. and they are continuing the traditions established such as Nerello Mascalese. by Antonio Argiolas, who would certainly be proud of the work done by his grandchildren.
101 102 103 FEUDO DI MEZZO – VIGNA LA MICCIA TURRIGA IL QUADRO DELLE ROSE 5 ANNI 2010 2012 “The thoroughbred, though, remains the Turriga that “A chewy red, with an elegant palate of spiced plum, “Rich and expressive, this is just off -dry, with fi ne cut even in the 2010 vintage very much lived up to expecta- wild cherry, leather and sweet, aromatic smoke to the fl avors of toff ee pudding, toasted walnut, dried tions. This successful vintage gave one of the most fl avors. Lightly juicy and fresh, showing spice and apricot, spun honey and fl eur de sel. The mouthwatering polished versions of recent times. A rich, complex wine, herb accents on the sculpted finish.” fi nish goes on and on.” but also subtly elegant thanks to a saline freshness that makes for a lively palate, ushering in an extremely — www.winespectator.com — www.winespectator.com clean, tasty fi nish.”
— Italian Wines 2015, Gambero Rosso
120 2024 750 ml $49 180 2025 500 ml $43 150 2017-2027 750 ml $65
WS 90 12613963 WS 91 12612531 GR 12625171
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THE SAQ INSPIRE CARD IT WOULD BE CRAZY TO MISS OUT Services SAQ Signature invites you to discover SAQ Inspire, an all-new experience that evolves with you. Sign up in store or at SAQInspire.com with the same email address you use for SAQ Signature services. ORDER FROM 01 KÖFERERHOF – Pinot Grigio 2013 – GR $29 02 KÖFERERHOF – Riesling 2013 – ST 93 $39 Friday, 03 TRAMIN – Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer 2013 – ST 91 V 92 GR $35 04 BELLAVISTA – Pas Operé Extra Brut 2009 – ST 91 $64
November 6, 05 CA’ DEL BOSCO – Vintage Collection Satèn 2010 – WS 90 (2009 vintage) $65 2015, 06 AR.PE.PE. – Sassella Stella Retica Riserva 2010 – ST 92 GR $46 07 ELIO ALTARE – Barolo 2010 – WA 94 $86 at noon 08 ANTONIOLO – Gattinara 2010 – ST 92 $47 09 ANTONIOLO – Osso San Grato 2010 – V 97 GR $85 commande.saq.com 10 CASCINA LA BARBATELLA – La Vigna dell’Angelo 2011 – GR $55 11 DOMENICO CLERICO – Arte 2012 – WA 93+ $49 12 DOMENICO CLERICO – Ciabot Mentin 2010 (750 ml) – ST 94-96 V 95+ $99 01 13 DOMENICO CLERICO – Ciabot Mentin 2010 (1.5 L) – ST 94-96 V 95+ $205 Make your selection 14 ALDO CONTERNO – Langhe 2012 – ST 93 $35 from November 6, at noon to November 23, 2015, 15 ALDO CONTERNO – Conca Tre Pile 2012 – ST 92 $43 at noon. 16 GAJA – Barbaresco 2011 – V 94 $225 17 GAJA – Conteisa 2010 – WA 97 $248 02 18 GAJA – Sperss 2010 – WS 97 $275 19 GAJA – Costa Russi 2011 – WA 94 V 94 $535 Receive your order confirmation 20 GAJA – Sorì San Lorenzo 2011 – V 97+ $535 November 25, 2015.* 21 GAJA – Sorì Tildìn 2011 – V 96 GR $535 22 BRUNO GIACOSA – Arneis 2014 $34 03 23 BRUNO GIACOSA – Asili 2012 – WA 94 $215 24 GIUSEPPE MASCARELLO E FIGLIO – Vigna Santo Stefano Perno 2010 – WA 94 $115 Pick up your order in store starting March 2016.* 25 GIUSEPPE MASCARELLO E FIGLIO – Villero 2010 – WA 92 $115 26 GIUSEPPE MASCARELLO E FIGLIO – Monprivato 2010 – WA 97 WS 96 $154 27 PELISSERO – Long Now 2011 – V 93 $48
CUT HERE 28 LUCIANO SANDRONE – Cannubi Boschis 2010 (750 ml) – WA 97 V 97+ GR $139 29 LUCIANO SANDRONE – Cannubi Boschis 2010 (1.5 L) – WA 97 V 97+ GR $299 30 PAOLO SCAVINO – Bric dël Fiasc 2010 – WA 96 WS 97 $102 31 SOTTIMANO – Pajoré 2012 – WA 93 V 93 $75 32 SOTTIMANO – Barbaresco Riserva 2010 – WS 95 $194 33 LA SPINETTA – Vigneto Starderi Vürsù 2010 – WA 95 $140 34 VIETTI – Brunate 2010 – WA 96 V 97 $173 35 VIETTI – Lazzarito 2010 – WA 95 V 96 $173 36 ZÝMĒ – Metodo Classico 2010 – V 91 $49 37 GINI – Contrada Salvarenza 2012 – ST 92 WA 92+ $35 38 BRIGALDARA – Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2010 – WA 93 GR $49 39 ROMANO DAL FORNO – Monte Lodoletta 2009 – WA 94+ $120 40 TRABUCCHI D’ILLASI – Terra del Cereolo 2008 – ST 91 $39 41 MASI – Costasera 1990 – WFW 17.5 $185 42 MASI – Campolongo di Torbe 1997 – WS 93 WFW 18.5 $205 43 GIUSEPPE QUINTARELLI – Rosso del Bepi 2005 $185
44 GIUSEPPE QUINTARELLI – Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006 – V 96 (2004 vintage) $384 45 GIUSEPPE QUINTARELLI – Alzero 2005 – V 94 $470 *Limited quantities. Indicated prices, 46 VIGNALTA – Gemola 2009 – ST 90 $45 quantities and vintages may change 47 ARGIANO – Suolo 2012 – WA 93 (2011 vintage) $129 without notice. If the demand surpasses the off er, a computerized 48 BARONE RICASOLI – Astuto 2012 – ST 91-93 $49 lottery will be held involving all 49 CA’ MARCANDA – Magari 2012 – ST 94 WA 94 $65 orders received before noon on November 23, 2015. It will be 50 CA’ MARCANDA – Camarcanda 2011 – WA 94 $159 impossible to make an order between 51 CAMIGLIANO – Gualto Riserva 2009 – WA 93+ $67 noon on November 23 and noon on November 25, 2015. 52 CASTELLARE DI CASTELLINA – I Sodi di S. Niccolò 2011 – WS 94 $72 ✃
PERFETTO 47 ITALIA 103 102 101 100 83 82 81 80 79 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 99 98 97 96 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 87 86 85 84 CASTELLI DEL GREVEPESA CASTELLI COL D’ORCIA COL D’ORCIA COL CIACCI PICCOLOMINI D’ARAGONA CASTELLO FONTERUTOLI CASTELLO DI BOSSI ARGIOLAS MARCO DE BARTOLI TENUTA DELLE TERRE NERE PALARI PALARI OCCHIPINTI PASSOPISCIARO PASSOPISCIARO COS POLVANERA MONTEVETRANO GALARDI COLLI DI LAPIO COLLI DI LAPIO ALOIS FALESCO LAMBORGHINI TORRE DEI BEATI EMIDIO PEPE VALENTINI MASCIARELLI MASCIARELLI VITICCIO VALDICAVA TOLAINI POLIZIANO MONTEVERTINE LE MACCHIOLE LE MACCHIOLE LE MACCHIOLE VITE DELLA LUCE VITE DELLA LUCE VITE DELLA LUCE IL POGGIONE IL POGGIONE PIAGGIA SIRO PACENTI IL MOLINO DI GRACE GUADO AL TASSO FONTODI FONTODI FÈLSINA FÈLSINA FATTORIA DI MAGLIANO DUEMANI – Pithos Bianco 2013– – Trebulanum 2011– – Faro 2009– Rosso del– Soprano 2011 – – Montebello Vigneto n° 7 2011 – – 2011 n° 7 Vigneto Montebello – – Carmignano Riserva 2011– – Fontalloro 2010– – Rancia 2011– – Montiano 2012– – Prunaio 2011– – Terra di Lavoro 2010– – Vinsanto del Chianti Classico 2004 – – 2004 Classico Chianti del Vinsanto – – 2011 Sorbo del Vigna – – Altrovino 2012– – Turriga 2010– – Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2010– – Asinone 2010– – Brunello di Montalcino 2006– – Grotte Alte 2010– – Primitivo 17 Vigneto Montevella 2011 – – 2011 Montevella 17 Vigneto Primitivo – – Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2003– – Poggio al Vento 2007 (1.5 L) – – (1.5 L) 2007 Vento al Poggio – – (750 ml) 2007 Vento al Poggio – – Vigna Paganelli 2007– – Brunello di Montalcino 2010– – Marina Cvetić Riserva 2012– – Marina Cvetić Chardonnay 2012– – Vecchie Vigne 2010– – Campoleone 2011– – Messorio 2011– – Scrio 2011– – Paleo Rosso 2011– – Andrea 2010– – Fiano di Avellino 2013– – Le Pergole Torte 2011 – – 2011 Torte Pergole Le – – Terre Siciliane 2012– – Guardiola 2013– – Cocciapazza 2012– – Luce 1999– – Luce 2001– – Luce 2004– – Colli di Salerno 2011 – – 2011 Salerno di Colli – – Matarocchio 2011– – Girolamo 2010– – Vigna La Miccia 5 Anni – – 5Anni Miccia La Vigna – WA – Il Margone 2007–
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