Dear GEMüTLICHKEIT Subscriber The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria &

See in a Day (Our publisher is on a short sabbatical. An Epicurean’s Guide Here’ is a Dear Subscriber column from 1999.) What we enjoyed most about a to Switzerland recent visit to Liechtenstein was renting a car for a day and getting out into the ood lovers spend millions, Switzerland. It, too, qualifies as a countryside, stopping here and there to perhaps even billions, on cu- legitimate gastronomic destination. enjoy a view or a peek inside a church. F linary tours, cooking schools Go there for the fine wines, distilled Foolishly, we didn’t plan well and and hugely expensive restaurants spirits, local products (chestnuts, wound up looking for a one-day rental in France, Italy and Spain. Even Bel- saffron, fruits) and dine at its 100 on a Saturday morning. Most agencies gium and Greece attract the adven- Michelin-starred restaurants spread were closed but we found one small turous palate. But Switzerland? The over the German, French and operator (Linsi Tours, tel. +41/075/392 land of Rösti and meat, far from any Italian-speaking regions. Go to find 1388) who delivered to our hotel the sea? Not so much. distinctly regional foods in village only vehicle he had available, a very Justly, the coun- markets and rustic inns along the by Sharon Hudgins comfortable 7-passenger Peugeot van. try’s renown is back roads. In a country that pro- Next morning he retrieved his van and for spectacular scenery, world-class duces 450 different , makes dropped us at the rail station in Sar- museums, precision technology 350 varieties of sausage, annually gans. The car cost $215, the pickup and (watches, clocks, trains), and consumes more chocolate per per- delivery was free. chocolate. But for the traveler will- son than anywhere else on earth, We wanted to see Gutenberg ing to look beyond the Sunday travel and makes unusual wines found in Balzers, the ski area at , and, section and slick magazine publicity only in certain small regions, the di- even though it sounded like kid stuff, given to the more popular foodie lemma is in deciding where to start. the so-called “Heidiland,” over the destinations, a lifetime of good tastes Here are a couple approaches to border into Switzerland, which surpris- awaits among the breathtakingly culinary touring in Switzerland: ingly turned out to be the best part of beautiful mountains and lakes of the day. Continued on page 3… Even on our 1:200,000 scale map of this area, some roads and villages mentioned here are in very faint print Affordable Castle or simply not shown. Before setting out ne of the many joys of Euro- moated, stone castle in the tiny village you should probably stop at the tourist pean travel is a category of of Sommersdorf about 12 km straight office for directions and advice. Oovernight accommodation south of Anspach along the Frankfurt- Here’s our rough itinerary: Leave that simply doesn’t exist in North Nürnberg autobahn. via the Red Road #28 south American—the gemütlich little hotel A mere 460 years ago the family toward Sargans. Look for signs to Maels and restaurant operated for decades von Crailsheim signed escrow papers which is behind or south of Balzers. by the same family. at the local title company and took You’ll begin to see glimpses of the cas- by Bob Bestor Yes, there are bed over the castle. Of course, they still tle. (Tip: always the castle on your and breakfasts in many of our cities own it today. left). On Echolz Str. in Maels find the but rarely do they have a restaurant pretty little Chapel of Maria Hilfe. and in our town of Ashland, Oregon, Then 15 years ago, the current Returning to the main road, there (home to about 60 of them) the Las occupant and major domo, Baron will be fine views of the castle spiral- Vegas over-under betting on burnout Manfred von Crailsheim, a physician ing up out of the vineyards and the old for B&B proprietors is about four years. practicing in Anspach, converted stone church at its right. If you have One could argue this point, but surely a portion of the interior into small children along, there is a playground it is beyond dispute that one Euro- apartments and guest bedrooms below the castle. pean hotel category is totally without which are now available to rent. At the main road go right toward a North American counterpart—the Continued on page 11… small, family-owned castle. Our fa- Switzerland and Maienfeld. Driving up Exchange rates as of 3/28/13 the gentle slope just at the border, you’ll vorite example of this genre is Schloss 1 euro = $1.28 see battlements from World War I when Haunsperg, near Salzburg. Another is Swiss franc = $1.05 Continued on page 2… Schloss Sommersdorf, an 800-year-old 1 gal. diesel, Germany=$6.84 www.gemut.com March 2013 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com

DEAR SUBSCRIBER signs to Chur and Fläsch, you can buy a museum rates a 30-minute visit, longer if Continued from page 1 bottle or two of the wine for which the you decide to watch the film in English. town is famous. Then just before the tunnel, the final Liechtenstein was aligned with Austria. Continue in the direction of Chur link to Malbun, is a small restaurant, the The were put there to keep and at the town center note the mural on Rizlina. Its deck has a wonderful view the Austrians out of Switzerland. the Rathaus wall depicting members of down the Rhine Valley and the simple Then, in a park-like section of open the 1797 city council. food is worth a stop. fields and forests, you’re suddenly in a Further on, at the train station, you Leaving Rizlina, continue up the Swiss military training area. The real- can pick up a Heidiweg pamphlet from mountain to the aforementioned narrow istic Swiss village on your left with the the kiosk. From the station look for signs tunnel. Watch the signal when entering; boarded windows is deserted. To the to Jenins where Gasthof Bündte (tel. proceed only if there is a flashing yellow right is more training apparatus; various 41/081/302 1223) specializes in air-dried light. Stop if it is red. jumps, obstacles, and overhead cables. meats and local wines. In is cross-country skiing, a Ahead is the narrow, arched fortress Beyond the Bündte, go right at the toboggan run, and a small rustic hotel. gate through which you’ll drive (in the stop sign—back toward Maienfeld— Malbun, at the end of the road, is where uphill direction you have the right- driving up through vineyards toward the Prince Charles skis when visiting Hans of-way), and a good spot for a picture Heidihof Hotel. At the large barn con- Adam II, prince of Liechtenstein. down the valley. tinue straight on. This road runs beside On the way back down the moun- Go on through the fortress, past the high walls protecting the vineyards. You tain, just past the Rizlina, turn right to stables and out a second gate. This rock- are headed toward Vaduz, actually on Rotenboden. Here, the road is narrow lined road is the old San Bernardino route. the Heidiweg, a very narrow track which with rock walls on the uphill side and Pass through tiny St. Luzisteig and you may have to share with walkers, es- wood railings on downhill. The Restau- start down hill. This is “Heidiland,” the pecially in summer. At the four corners, rant Samina has a reputation for good region that inspired Johanna Spyri’s tales continue straight to the main road where food and excellent views from its terrace. you go right, back toward Vaduz. of the little Swiss girl and her grandfather. From this point, you can return to Stop at the “P4” sign to see the Heidi In turn right toward Malbun. the valley by way of . RHB Ascending the hill, look high above the fountain built with donations from Using Gemütlichkeit school children. If you’ve brought food road for a rambling, modern, yellow house. It is the former home of actor, • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Dis- this is a good place to picnic. counts are often available for longer stays. Oscar Werner (Ship of Fools). He is bur- Here you can join two Heidi trails, • All hotel prices include breakfast unless ied in Triesen where he frequented the otherwise noted. the shortest is about 90 minutes round Restaurant Linde. Luzia Kindle, Linde’s • Local European telephone area codes trip and includes the “Heidihaus” and owner, sometimes shows visitors a book carry the “0” required for in-country dialing. the wine village of Maienfeld. The To phone establishments from outside the of poems written by Werner which he country, such as from the USA, do not dial second, about four hours, winds much gave her. the first “0”. higher to the “Heidialp” and through the Back Issues Website village of Jenins. Ignore signs to Heidi- From this road, you have the op- Chapel of St. hof, it is a modern, uninteresting hotel. tion of a side trip to the Many back issues are available free to subscribers Mamerten where a wine festival takes at www.gemut.com. To access the issues, enter the Drive on toward Maienfeld, enjoying place annually on the weekend after the password published in this space each month. Go to fine views of the Rhine valley. At Kunz August 15 “National Day.” http://www.gemut.com/csub.html Keller, at the corner with the barrel and At Triesenberg the Walser Heimat- Password: epic

Vol. 27, No. 2 Hotel Restaurant Rating Key March GEMüTLICHKEIT 2013 The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor:Editor: RobertLaura H. Bestor Riedel Contributors:Writers: Doug Linton,Margie C. Fischer, Gibson, R. Holliday, Sharon Jim Hudgins Johnson Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Web Master: Karsten PaulHorn, T. Phyllis Merschdorf Meras Adequate 4 - 7 Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Unacceptable 0 - 3 SubscriptionSubscriber Travel Dept: Services: Andy Bestor,Kurt Laura Steffans Riedel SubscriberGemut.com Webmaster:Travel Services: Andy Bestor,Charles Laura Brockman Riedel Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 10 times each year by Up- People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 Country Publishing, 151 Church Street, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521-6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail travel@ Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 gemut.com. Web site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $69 per year Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 for 10 issues, $49 via e-mail. While every effort is made to provide correct information, the publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 Gemütlichkeit, 151 Church Street, Ashland OR 97520

Gemütlichkeit 2 March 2013 “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com www.gemut.com

Switzerland Food Guide tains the third largest wine region in and special Christmas pastries filled Continued from page 1 the country. The town of Satigny is with pear compote. Top-class wines the largest grape-growing municipal- are made from Chasselas and Pinot n Pick a particular region and ity in Switzerland. Haute cuisine and Noir grapes, including superb wines explore its wines and foods in depth, top-quality wines served at some of from Lavaux (a UNESCO World traveling through the land and cul- Switzerland’s finest (and most expen- Heritage Site) where several Michelin- ture that produces ingredients and sive) restaurants coexist with more starred restaurants are also clustered. dishes that define the regional cui- moderately priced rustic regional La Ferme Vaudoise shop in Lau- sine, eating at restaurants and inns specialties found at country inns, sanne (www.lafermevaudoise.ch) and that offer traditional (and modern) city bistros, and brasseries. Look for La Ferme in Yverdon-les-Bains (www. dishes made with local products, and local dishes such as sautéed perch becoming immersed in the local wine lafermeyverdon.ch/index.html) both sell from Lac Lèman (Lake Geneva), lon- a large selection of regional wines culture by visiting the vineyards and geole (fennel-flavored pork sausage), wine-makers to taste the wines. and food products. Those interested gratinéed cardoons (artichoke thistle), in food history and food production, n Select a single product—wine, and juicy-sweet pear tarts; traditional should visit the Alimentarium Food cheese, chocolate, spirits, even ginger- Swiss cheese dishes like and Museum in Vevey (www.alimentarium. bread—and visit a variety of produc- raclette; and a wide range of foreign ch); the Museum of Wheat and Bread ers in different regions throughout foods favored by Geneva’s interna- in Echallens (www.maison-ble-pain. the country to learn how these Swiss tional community, including many com); the Cheese Museum specialties are made. dishes influenced by the cuisine of in Les Charbonnières (www.vacherin- nearby France. The annual mid- This first of two articles on Swiss le-pelerin.ch); the Sévery Oil Mill in September wine festival in Russin culinary travel focuses on the food and Sévery (www.huilerie-de-severy.ch); features wine tastings from the canton wine specialties found in each region and the Salt Mines in Bex (http://www. of Geneva, regional dishes, and a of the country. Later, we will look at mines.ch/en/trekkmines). specific culinary routes, within those display of local food products (www. For hotel and restaurant listings, regions and across the entire country. fetedesvendangesrussin.ch). as well as dates for open-air food Whatever the chosen approach, exam- For a list of restaurants in all price markets throughout the region, see ining a region’s cuisine in depth or fol- ranges, as well as accommodations at www.lake-geneva-region.ch/en/. lowing a food route that encompasses hotels and inns in the Geneva area, the whole of Switzerland will lead see www.geneve-tourisme.ch. Fribourg Region to the discovery of new tastes—and sights—along the way. Lac Lèman Region (Western Switzerland) Northwest of Lac Lèman, this re- Specialties by Region (North side of lake, between Nyon and Montreux; north to Yverdon-les-Bains) gion is well known for its cheeses, in- Bordering on five European coun- cluding creamy Vacherin Fribourgeois tries, with four official languages, The highest concentration of top- and AOC-designated Le Gruyère, both and encompassing a wide variety of rated gourmet restaurants in Swit- of which go into making classic Swiss landscapes from stark alpine peaks zerland can be found on the north fondue. Other regional products in- to gentle river valleys, Switzerland’s side of the lake, along with some of clude fresh and smoked fish, Villars distinctive regional cuisines have long the richest vineyards in the country. chocolates, crunchy-sweet , been shaped by culture and geogra- Regional specialties include hams and desserts made with double-thick phy. These are some of the regional pork sausages (longeole, atriaux, boute- cream, wine from Mont-Vully (one of food specialties, culinary museums, fas); freshwater lake fish such as perch the smallest wine regions in Switzer- and farmers’ markets that attract and char, served in white wine sauce; land), and Cardinal beer. visitors from far and near. Be sure to papet vaoudois (pork-and-cabbage- filled sausages slow-cooked with Fribourg city has a market every look for AOC—appellation d’origine Wednesday and Saturday, year round. contrôlée—designated products, which potatoes and leeks); Malakoff (cheese fritters flavored with white wine and Hike, bike, or inline skate along the are guaranteed to come from a spe- Vegetable Trail in Kerzers, where cific place in Switzerland. kirsch); celebrated AOC-cheeses (Vach- erin Mont d’Or, Le’Etivaz) and other you can see more than 60 varieties of veggies grown in this region, learn Geneva Region cheeses such as Maréchal, Bon Vaudois, and Tomme Vaudois; taillé de gou- about their methods of cultivation, (Southwestern Switzerland, south of Lake moens (yeast-raised flatbread topped visit farmers, and picnic on the way Geneva, along the Rhône River between with cream and sugar); tarte au vin (www.myswitzerland.com/en/kerzers- the cities of Geneva and Dardagny) cuit (made with sweet fruit syrup); vegetable-trail.html). Then satisfy your The city of Geneva is considered bouchon vaudois (cork-shaped sponge sweet tooth at Angelo Rime’s bakery the culinary capital of Switzerland, confections with -praline fill- in Botterens, which claims to make and the canton (state) of Geneva con- ing); a variety of luscious chocolates; the best meringues in Switzerland,

Gemütlichkeit 3 March 2013 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com baked in a wood-fired oven; or at Premium Ice Cream from the rich dine in a local restaurant on a multi- Aebersold bakery in Murten, known milk of cows that have grazed in lush course meal of dishes made entirely for its Nidelkuchen, yeast bread topped alpine pastures. After a day of skiing with this precious spice (http://www. with caramelized sugar and cream down Gstaad’s famous slopes, you’ll myswitzerland.com/en/mund.html). (www.nidelkuchen.ch). be ready to chow down on all these Learn about rye bread baking (www. For extensive information about dishes. roggenbrot.ch); taste cheese raclette a wide range of accommodations, Visit the weekly markets, all at a typical raclette-stubjini (raclette restaurants, regional specialties, food year round in Gstaad, Saanen, and restaurant, www.valais.ch/en/page.cfm/ markets, gastronomic travel, gourmet Schönried. Follow the Fondue Trail, Gastronomy-and-Wine/local-products/ chest- events, and even recipes, see www. in Rellerei-Schönried, where visi- The-real-raclette; and attend a nut festival Fully fribourgregion.ch/en. tors can buy fondue ingredients and in (www.valais. a backpack filled with the necessary ch/en/Activities-experiences-winter/ Gstaad in the Saanenland items for a combination scenic-hike- Gastronomy-wine/Culinary-activities/ Chestnut-festival-Fully.html). (South-central Switzerland, and-outdoor-fondue experience west of Lake Geneva) (www.fondueweg.ch). Visit the “Cheese For hotel and restaurant listings Cathedral” in Bissen-Gstaad, for a see www.valaistourism.ch. This website Inventive chefs in this small, tour of the underground caves hold- also has an extensive list of culinary mountainous region have a reputa- ing more than 3,000 wheels of cheese, activities in the Valais region (www. tion for making memorable dishes including historic and rare cheeses valais.ch/en/Activities-experiences-win- from local products: Simmental beef (www.molkerei-gstaad.ch). ter/Gastronomy-wine/Culinary-activities. (from the Simme River valley), rain- html). bow trout, Hobelkäse (hard cheese For hotel, restaurant, and museum information, see www.gstaad.ch. from cows’ milk, made in high alpine Ticino Region regions), goats’ cheese (for a nontradi- tional raclette), and tasty Saanen mus- Valais Region (Southern Switzerland) tard. This region is especially known (Southern Switzerland) This Italian-speaking southern tip for its sweets, including Saanen Gibeni This “land of snow and sunshine” of Switzerland has its own distinctive- and Gletschertüüfeleni (chocolates is an area of superlatives: the highest ly delicious culinary traditions: thick, filled with nuts and cream alpine summits in Switzerland, the buttery cornmeal polenta cooked for or chocolate cream), as well as Saanen greatest variety of culinary specialties, hours in a copper cauldron over an the country’s only saffron-growing open fire; creamy-rich risotto, made Key Websites for the Traveler area (in the tiny village of Mund), with rice from the northernmost rice- • www.gemut.com Gateway site for growing region in Europe; fresh fish travelers to Germanic Europe, including car and the largest wine canton with the rental, rail passes, hotel bookings, travel tips, highest vineyard in Europe (situ- from the lakes; a variety of preserved and past issues (free access to back issues for meat products (lardo, pancetta, salami, subscribers; see log-on info on page 2). ated at 1,150 meters/3,773 feet, in Visperterminen). Food products and and liver-flavored mortadella); alpine • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin Piora and pyramid-shaped Zincarlin database of hotels and restaurants, plus great regional dishes include juicy apricots interactive trip planning tools grown below snow-covered mountain cheeses; sweet torta de pane for des- • www.travelessentials.com Guide- peaks; saffron, the world’s most ex- sert. Known as Switzerland’s “sun books, maps, travel accessories, luggage, all pensive spice (and dishes made with parlor,” the Ticino region is famous at 10 percent off for subscribers. Use dis- for its grotti, little inns where people count code gemut2010. it, including saffron bread and saffron sit outdoors at stone tables, eating • maps.google.com Amazing map re- risotto); melted cheese raclettes and source. Driving & walking. Zoom in-out. Great paper-thin slices of dried beef; mush- local specialties and drinking young detail city & country. Satellite & terrain views. room and polenta dishes; gâteau de wines (especially Merlot) from rustic • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/ Savièse (cheese, potato, leek, and ba- terra cotta cups. Ticino is also well en German rail website, with train schedules known for its chestnuts—roasted, throughout Europe, as well as Germany. con tart); AOC-designated rustic sour- • www.sbb.ch/en/ Swiss and Euro- dough rye bread made from rye that smoked, candied, dried, and milled pean rail schedules has been grown, milled, processed, into flour, which are used in many • www.ski-europe.com Top Web re- and baked in the Valais region; wines sweet and savory dishes. More source for skiers with much info on Alpine resorts chestnut festivals from more than 50 grape varieties than 30 are held • www.myswitzerland.com Website throughout Ticino every year, with of Switzerland’s national tourist authority grown on the sunny slopes above the the largest in Ascona and Lugano. • www.germany-tourism.de Ger- Rhône River; and aromatic fruit bran- many’s national tourist authority dies distilled from apricots, pears, and And the colorful Saturday-morning Bellinzona • www.austria.info/us Austria’s grapes. open-air food market in is national tourist authority not to be missed! • www.historicgermany.com Web- Visit the Saffron Museum in site for an alliance of historic German cities Mund, housed in a 15th-century tithe For information on hotels, restau- • www.thetravelinsider.info Info on elec- barn, and take a self-guided tour of rants, and places of culinary interest tronics for travelers — cell phones, computers, etc. the area along the Saffron Trail. Then see www.ticino.ch.

Gemütlichkeit 4 March 2013 Book European Travel Book Hotels Online TravelTRAVEL MMARTArT European Auto Rental Travel shoppingGermany is easy at www.gemut.com You can now book hotels, purchase rail www.gemut.com www.gemut.comwww.gemut.com Car 1-week xtra day Opelpasses Corsa and point-to-point$198 rail tickets,$29 buy . A website for travelers to Three-star-plus hotels from: A website for travelers to VWtravel Golf insurance,(w/upgrade*) and$207 request quotes$30 on GermanicGermanic Europe Europe Opeltransatlantic Astra (Auto) airline $264tickets and$38 rental Baden-Baden ...... €71 VWcars. Passat Secure, (w/upgrade*) one-stop $244 European $35 travel Berlin ...... €49 Book European Travel MBZshopping C180/GPS at www.gemut.com (Auto) $401 $57 Frankfurt Airport ...... €53 Hotell Schloss hl Berg Travel shopping is easy at www.gemut. Skoda Superb $302 $43 Garmisch-Partenkirchen ...... €75 • Just South of Munich on Beautiful Starnberg Lake MBZ C180/GPS (w/upgrade*) $278 $40 Munich ...... €41 com. You can now book hotels, purchase Your Berlin Headquarters • Beautiful Rooms with Terrace, Full Baths, Lake View Skoda Superb (auto) $332 $47 Munich Airport...... €59 rail passes and point-to-point rail tickets, BMW 5 (Auto/GPS) $526 $75 • Easy Access to Oktoberfest Wiesbaden...... €58 buy travel insurance, and request quotes VWHotel Touran Art Nouveau$270 $39 • Immediate Availability & Booking at Our USA Office Graz...... €59 on transatlantic airline tickets and rental VW Touran✴☛✭❊◗◗�✡�✼❊�❑❘❚�❊�❘��❑�❋❙�❙❙❍ (Auto) $321 $46 HotelSalzburg magnificently ...... situated€ on49 Lakeside cars. Secure, one-stop European travel VW❘�❊�◗❊❘�❏�❘���❙❚�❊❘❍�◗❊����❊❊❘✒ Passat Wagon $286 $41 surroundedSteyr ...... by elegant villas, manor€68 houses, shopping at www.gemut.com Audi✶�❘�❙❘� A4 SW (GPS)Gemütlichkeit $430 ❏❙�✕✔✠�❍��❙❘ $61 ,Vienna and ...... Germany's most€34 beautiful MBZ C200 SW (GPS)✮❍�❙☛���❙���✒ $379 $54 countryside.Vienna Airport Friendly, ...... English-speaking€50 staff. MBZ E-Class SW (GPS) $378 $54 Moderate affordable rates include sumptuous Your Berlin Headquarters VW Tel.Sharan 888-517-4342, 7-pass Fax$482 +49.30.32774440 $69 buffetGrindelwald breakfast,...... tax and service.CHF100 Free VW MinibusEmail: [email protected] 9-pass $833 $94 bicycles,Interlaken large...... rooms with privateCHF120 outside Hotel Art Nouveau terraces.Lucerne Complimentary ...... beerCHF115 or wine with web: Austriawww.hotelartnouveau.de lunchZürich or dinner...... orders in ourCHF115 Lakeside K'Damm & Savignyplatz neighborhood Fiat Punto $262 $37 DiningZürich Room Airport and...... Pub. CHF149 Ask about Many fine shops & small restaurants Gemütlichkeit senior citizen rebate. Mention Gemütlichkeit for 10% discount FordEuropean Focus Auto$285 Rental$41 VW Golf (Auto) $550 $79 Rapid Rail into Munich every 20 minutes. Editor's choice Germany Mercedes(Partial B-Class Vehicle $361 List)$52 Lake cruiseGemütlichkeit's ships stop at our dock, close to Tel.+49.30.3277440, Fax +49.30.32774440 Bavarian Castles and Austria. SkodaCar Octavia $4241-week $61xtra day Trip Planning & Email: [email protected] MercedesOpel Corsa C-Class with air$779$204 $111 $29 BookingUSA Reservations Service Office web: www.hotelartnouveau.de NissanVW Golf SUV (w/upgrade*) $509$205 $73 $29 Toll Free: 866-833-1251 FordOpel Focus Astra Wagon (Auto) $370$344 $53 $48 • Hotel Bookings BOOK NOW FOR OKTOBERFEST LowSpring season airfares air to to Europe... Europe SkodaVW Octavia Passat Wagon (w/upgrade*) $458$246 $65 $35 Renault Traffic 9-Pass $933 $119 • Hotel/Restaurant Recommendations LowestOct. 26-Dec. Fares 10, - DecBest . 25-Mar. Service 25 VW800-521-6722 Passat (Auto) $363 $52 • BackroadsGem Itinerariesütlichkeit's AudiSwitzerland A4 $343 $49 Trip Planning & BestConsolidator fares on Lufthansa, Delta,Air FaresUnited, British OpelMBZ Cor C180sa (w/upgrade*)$271$267 $39 $38 • Self-Guided Auto/Rail Tours Air, USAir, Air Berlin, Condor, Swiss, etc. Booking Service Best fares on Lufthansa, American, Delta, United, OpelMBZ Astra C180 (auto/GPS)$313$378 $45 $54 FordMBZ Focus E200 (Auto/GPS)(Auto) $456$473 $65 $68 Ask about our individually AtlantaBritish...... Air, LTU, Northwest, Swiss,$1097 etc. •tailored Hotel Bookings 14-day “Great Little OpelVW Vectra Touran $512$327 $73 $47 • Hotel/Restaurant Recommendations BostonAtlanta...... $852 $411 Hotels & Restaurants of VWVW Golf Golf Plus SW (Auto) $622 $268 $89 $38 • Backroads Itineraries ChicagoBoston...... $903 $356 Germany” auto tours FordVW C-Max Passat Wagon SW $541 $319 $77 $46 • Self-Guided Auto/Rail Tours DallasChicago...... $998 $412 VW Golf Wagon $427 $61 Dallas ...... $406 Audi A4 SW (GPS) $343 $49 Denver...... $1089 Skoda Octavia SW (auto) $632 $90 800-521-6722800-521-6722 Denver ...... $434 FordBMW Galaxy 530 VanSW (Auto/GPS)$1310$586 $187 $84 Los Angeles...... $1084 Los Angeles ...... $462 RenaultVolvo Espace V70 VanSW (auto) (GPS) $1376$394 $197 $56 Miami...... $815 VW Sharan 7-pass $637 $91 Miami ...... $412 • Upgrades through 8/31/2013. Discounts for longer NewNew York York...... $802 $312 rentalsVW. AllMinibus rates quoted 9-pass in this ad $637 are subject to $91 OrlandoOrlando...... $1035 $412 change• Upgrades without through notice 10/31/09.but lock-in Discounts at booking. for longer Rates rent- basedals. on All one-week rates quoted booking. in this Ratesad are includeas of 8/9/09, Value subject SeattleSeattle...... $1084 $462 to change without notice but lock-in at booking. Rates Addedbased Tax, on unlimited one-week mileage,booking . Rates3rd party include liability unlimited ins. mile- SanSan Francisco Francisco...... $1084 $462 but doage, not 3rd include party liability CDW, theft ins. butinsurance, do not Include road tax, vaT, CDW, WashingtonWashington DC DC...... $946$362 andtheft airport insurance, fees. road tax, and airport fees. CallBusiness Now for Class Summer ...... Business $2700 Class to $4000Specials BestBest Current Current Deal Deal Fares availableavailable from from all all U.S. U.S. gateways gateways. •• BookThrough a five-passenger October 31, van, drive VW aTouran Fullsize IMPORTANT:IMPORTANT: Fares Fares are roundare round trip to trip Germany to Germany for for Mercedes (or similar) C200 in inGermany germany for fora week a week for shoulder-seasonmid-week travel travel and and do include not include tax & tax, fuel fees, & fuel $317, includingfor $270, including19% VAT. 19% two-weeks VAT is $570. surchargesurcharge.. Call Call for for a to-the-pennya to-the-penny quote quote or get or get an e-mailan quote email at quote www.gemut.com at www.gemut.com Cars also also available available in most in most EuropeanEuropean countries countries 800.521.6722800.521.6722 800-521-6722 GEMÜTLICHKEIT Advertising Supplement I-1 September 2009 (use discount code Gemut.2013) The Lock the TSA Can’t Lose! NEW Lightweight TSA-Approved , our Triple Security & Expandable Luggage Cable Lock not only locks your bag tight - with the longer of its two cables, Eagle Creek Ease - It’s the latest from it protects itself from clumsy TSA agents the greatest & includes both two-wheeled by locking TO your bag. It’s also great and four-wheeled uprights, rolling for securing luggage to stationary objects! duffels, a rolling tote, garment bags, a rolling brief case, and more - $12.56 (Reg.$13.95) all with Eagle Creek’s amazing “No Matter What” Warranty.

$112.50 - $405 (Reg. $125- $450) Finally, a Leak-Proof Protect Your Valuables Travel Bottle! The CitySafe 200 travel purse offers a host of safety Squeezable and packable, features, including: 95 GoToob travel bottles $62. Slash-proof strap (Reg. $69.95) are easy to fill and & side panels. come in three carry-on approved sizes. Tamper-proof $6.25 - $8.55 zipper. (Reg. $6.95 - $9.50) Snatch-proof anchor clip. Three packs starting at $16.16 (Reg. $17.95) 1.25 oz 2 oz 3 oz Plus, all the internal organization you’ll need for cameras, cell phones, umbrellas, guide books and more!. Lost in Europe? Not With A Michelin Map! Prevent Leg Swelling & Producing quality maps and Discomfort guide books since 1900, Michelin’s detail and accuracy make these TravelSox offer comfortable, maps excellent for driving the yet firm compression to back roads of Europe. protect against blood clots and pain on long flights. $11.65 (Reg. $12.95) $26.95 (Reg. $29.95) Wash Your Clothes Anywhere! Stop Electronic Handy packets ID Theft! of Woolite laundry detergent so you can have clean clothes Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) chips are for the whole trip! becoming more commonplace in credit cards (10 pack) and passports. Our collection of RFID Blocking wallets, pouches, passport covers and organizers

36 block RFID signals and keep your personal info $5. safe. (Reg. $5.95) $5.35 - $26.99 (Reg. $5.95 - $29.99) 2013 Rail Pass Headquarters: Gemut.com European Rail Pass Update: Due to great variety and ever-growing number of European rail passes, and because those prices change so frequently, we can no lon- ger maintain a complete list of passes and their current prices on this page. Research & Buy Rail Passes Online: You can find the price of all passes at our website. Go to Gemut.com and select “Rail” from the top menu. There you can re- search rail travel and purchase rail passes as well as point-to-point rail tickets. The prices will be exactly the same as at the Rail Europe website. There is no service fee for ordering online. Buy Rail Passes by Phone: Call 800-521-6722. The minimum $25 service fee will be waived for past customers and paid subscribers to the Gemütlichkeit newsletter. Sample Rail Pass Prices for 2013 • Eurail Global Saver Pass (24 countries) • German Rail Twin Pass (2 persons) 10 days: $799 3 days, second-class: $201 15 consecutive days: $678 3 days, first-class: $275 • Eurail Select Pass • France Rail Pass 5 days, 3 countries, saver pass: $428 3 days, saver pass, second-class: $208 5 days, 4 countries, saver pass: $478 3 days, saver pass, first-class: $257 5 days, 5 countries, saver pass: $526 • France-Germay Eurail Pass • European East Pass (5 countries) 4 days, saver pass, second-class: $373 5 days, 2nd-class: $252 4 days, saver pass, first-class: $411 • Austria Rail Pass • Switzerland-Germay Eurail Pass 3 days, saver pass, 2nd-class: $153 5 days, saver pass, first-class: $414 • Austria-Czech Eurail • Swiss Pass 4 days, saver pass, first-class: $239 4 consec. days, saver pass, 1st-class: $419 • Austria-Germany Eurail 4 consec. days, saver pass, 2nd-class: $262 5 days, saver pass, first-class: $386 3 days, saver pass, 1st-class: $401 • Austria-Switzerland Eurail 3 days, saver pass, 2nd-class: $250 4 days, saver pass, first-class: $370 Rail Specials and News • France is no longer part of Eurail’s Select Pass but remains part of the Eurail Global Pass. It is also possible to purchase the following passes: France-Switzer- land, France-Italy, France-Germany, France-Spain, and France-Benelux. • A Fly Rail Baggage tag checks a suitcase, bag, skis, snowboard, or stroller to any of 50 rail stations in Switzerland from any North American airport. The cost if $25 per person. • For travel through April 30, buy a first-class 5-day Swiss Pass or 5-day Swiss Saver Pass for the price of a 4-day pass.

Order rail passes and tickets online at gemut.raileuorpe.com or phone 800-521-6722 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com Cruise the World

The Gemut.com team can now meet all your cruise needs and offer the same great service

Europe’s rivers ~ Mediterranean ~ Alaska ~ The Baltic ~ China ~ Caribbean ~ Vietnam & Cambodia ~ Hawaii ~ Russia Everywhere you want to cruise...

Here is a small sampling, call to discusss your specific needs.

Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Company Danube Discovery & Prague 10 days, Vienna to Prague. From $3549

Princess Cruises Inside Passage with Glacier Bay 7 days, Roundtrip Seattle. From $864

Greek Isles 12 days, Rome to Venice. From $1899

Regent Seven Seas Cruises Imperial Visions 7 days, Copenhagen to Stockholm. From $6299

Atlantic Crossings 16 days, Montreal to Miami. From $7549

Norwegian Cruise Line Southern Carribean 7 days, Roundtrip Miami. From $699

For free catalog from any cruise line or to book space, phone Gemütlichkeit: 800-521-6722 x 2 Gemütlichkeit 8 March 2013 “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com www.gemut.com Graubünden Region accompanied by Rösti, a large, thick, from , sugar, butter, and egg (Southeast Switzerland, including the grated-potato pancake; and luscious whites, in various flavors. Rhine valley between Chur and Sargans) Zuger Kirschtorte spiked with the fa- Visit the Show Dairy in Affoltern mous cherry brandy from Zug. Other A leading Swiss holiday destina- to see the famous cheese being made regional specialties include Schüblinge tion, Graubünden is known for its (make your own cheese, too), then (black-smoked sausages baked in hearty mountain fare, including wild dine on hearty cheese dishes at the dough); Käsknöpfle (tiny dumplings game in autumn; barley soup with rustic restaurant (www.showdairy.ch). with melted cheese and browned bacon and beans; Pizokels (buckwheat You can also follow Switzerland’s onions); Mostbröckli (marinated and gnocchi); Bündnerfleisch (dried beef first cheese route through the scenic smoked beef loin); AOC-designated sliced wafer thin); Capuns (vegetables Emme Valley, on foot or by bicycle, corn from the Rhine Valley, and AOC- wrapped in chard leaves); “Plain in car, public transportation, or horse- designated Appenzeller cheese from Pigna” (a kind of potato pancake with drawn carriage (www.kaesestrasse.ch). Appenzell; Gottlieber Hüppen (crispy ham and bacon, baked in a wood- For more information on the Bern sweet wafer rolls filled with choco- fired oven); and the famous Engandin- region, including restaurants and late), Biberli ( filled with er Nüsstorte made with walnuts, hon- hotels, see www.myswitzerland.com/en/ almond paste), and a variety of other ey, caramel, and cream; fine wines, destination-bern.html. sweets with distinctive names (Gi- distilled fruit brandies, and beer raffentorte, Luxemburgli Mousse Kisses, from the highest-altitude brewery in Spanischbrödli pastries with carrot- Basel Region Europe. There is an especially high hazelnut filling); fruity white wines (Northwest Switzerland) concentration of Michelin-starred made from Räuschling grapes; and and Gault Millau-listed restaurants Adjacent to Germany and France, Linthcorn, a distilled spirit made from around St. Moritz, which also hosts Basel’s cuisine reflects the influences wholegrain wheat, husk and all. a Gourmet Festival every year (www. of both countries. Regional dishes stmoritz-gourmetfestival.ch/en/). Visit the Appenzeller Show Dairy include salmon from the rivers and in Stein, to learn how the region’s asparagus from the sandy soil; Lum- The village of Maienfeld was the most famous cheese is made, taste a melbraten (roasted beef fillet with home of the beloved fictional char- variety of dishes made with cheese garlic); sausages and sauerkraut; on- acter, Heidi, whose story has been a in the adjacent restaurant, and buy ion tarts, caraway seed pretzels, and best-seller for more than 100 years. cheese to take with you. (www.schau- Alsatian-style Flammkuchen (a kind Visit the Heidi House to learn how kaeserei.ch). Next door at the fascinat- of thin-crust pizza topped with crème food was processed and stored in that ing Appenzell Folklore Museum, fraîche, onions, and bacon, cooked region in earlier times, and purchase see how cheese was made in earlier in a wood-fired oven); Läckerli (little local products at the adjacent store centuries and watch a local cheese honey-spice cookies); locally brewed (www.heidihaus.ch/). At Kunz-Keller maker at work. And don’t miss the beers, a variety of high-quality wines, in Maienfeld, there are 30 kinds of elegant Confiserie Roggwiller in St. and Baselbieter Kirsch, distilled black distilled schnapps (raspberry, pear, Gallen, well known for its exquisite cherry brandy. meadow flowers, etc.), and wines handmade , confections, and aged in the largest vaulted cellars Monday through Saturday visit gingerbreads (www.roggwiller.ch). in the village. Learn the process of the Basel City Market for local and making dried meat (and taste it, too) For hotel and restaurant in- regional products, and in late Oc- at Brügger in Parpan (www.bruegger- formation see www.ostschweiz.ch, tober the Basler Weinmesse, the parpan.ch). Another well known pro- www.stadt.sg.ch (St. Gallen), www. most important wine exposition in ducer of high-quality dried meats is schaffhauserland.ch/en (Schaffhausen), northwestern Switzerland. Lovers of Hatecke in Scuol (www.hatecke.ch). and www.zuerich.com/en/Visitor.html sweets flock to the Läckerli-Huus in (Zürich). Basel city, for its famous little ginger- For hotel, restaurant, and culinary breads (www.laeckerli-huus.ch); and information see www.graubuenden.ch. Schweizer Mittelland Region to Sweet Basel, in Basel/Birsfelden, Northeast/North-Central Region (North-central Switzerland) for its large selection of traditional and contemporary confections (www. (Bordering Liechtenstein, Austria, & German) In and around the Swiss capital sweetbasel.ch). This area has a cuisine highly in- of Bern, you can enjoy AOC-des- fluenced by Germanic culture. Many ignated Emmentaler cheese; Berner For hotel, restaurant, and other dishes are associated with a particular Platte (mixed meats—ham, bacon, tourist information see www.basel.com city: Riesling wine soup from Schaff- spare ribs, pork knuckle, marrow and www.baselland-tourismus.ch. hausen; St. Gallen’s special Bratwurst bone—with sauerkraut, beans, and made with veal, bacon, and milk, potatoes); Bern’s traditional Sunday Jura and Three Lakes Region served on a crunchy roll; Zürcher Ge- bread, Züpfe, made of braided yeast (Lakes Neuchâtel, Bienne/Biel, and schnetzeltes, Zürich’s classic dish of dough rich with butter and milk; and Morat/Murten) sliced veal in a delicate cream sauce, Mandelbärli (“almond bears”) made Mountain slopes and gentle val-

Gemütlichkeit 9 March 2013 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com leys, lakes and vineyard, and Ger- man and French language cultures, Südtirol Mountain Drive all combine to produce a variety of The original plan was to take the Autobahn from Garmisch-Partenkirchen culinary specialties in this region: across the Brenner Pass, then turn southwest toward Bellagio on Lake Como. traditional fish dishes from the rivers At Innsbruck, however, a detour took us to route 182 which was so delightful and lake (baked pike, smoked trout, we stayed on it through Brenner Pass and beyond. The road curved through whitefish fillets in white wine sauce, the valley far below the Autobahn, through Steinach and Gries, past Brenner and perch baked in pastry); several and down to Vipiteno in the Südtirol. kinds of sausages (Saucisson Neuchâ- telois, Saucisse d’Ajoie, Treber sausages At Vipiteno (Sterzing) we turned off on route 44 to go over the Jaufen- from Lake Biel); fine cheeses (Vacherin pass. The”wiggles” on our map gave clear indication that the climb to the Mont d’Or, Tête de Moine); Solothurn top would involve many turns. No buses or trucks were encountered on hazelnut- ; damassine the road up. (wild plum schnapps from the Jura); Although it was raining, the road up the north side was clear of the mysterious “green fairy,” absinthe clouds. The south slope was partially covered with clouds being swept from the Val-de-Travers; and even an upward and over the mountain. unusual ham cooked in asphalt (with which you might need a shot of ab- Route S 38 west of Merano follows a valley (Val Venosta) that is sinthe!) at the Cafe des Mines, at the bounded on the north and south by mountain ranges which supply abun- asphalt mines in Travers. dant irrigation water for the apple orchards in the valley. Visit Au Trou de Souris cheese Without a reservation we stopped at family Laimer’s Park Hotel Zur shop in the historic market building Linde in Schlanders (Silandro), a fairly new, modern hotel with parking in Neuchâtel’s Old Town, for a large in the front, off the street. Our third floor room was spacious with satel- selection of cheeses and other regional lite TV, a balcony overlooking the mountains and the tile bathroom was products, including Tête de Moine exceptional. cheese which was invented by the Schlanders obviously has considerable monks of Bellelay Abbey in the 13th attraction for sports enthusi- asts during the century. Discover the secrets of ab- winter season with the moun- tain slopes so sinthe on a tour of the Père François close. This became apparent during a morning distillery in Môtiers (www.absintherie. walk through the city when we came upon ch). Make a reservation to learn about bees and honey-making in the Val- the magnificent Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten. de-Ruz, with a tasting afterward Very new and el- egant, the hotel (www.augredessaveurs.ch). offers every amenity, a large indoor pool, sauna, Turkish steam For hotel, restaurant, and culinary bath, exercise room and tennis information see www.myswitzerland.com/ courts. Brochures advertise that the en/lake-of-neuchatel-region.html and www. nearby Montani Castle is the home of the juradreiseenland.ch/en. Nibelungen legend. For more information on in- dividual Swiss regions, see www. The small, walled town of Glurns is only a short dis- myswitzerland.com/en/destinations/ tance from where S 38 turns south toward Stelvio Pass. It is a charming regions.html. A particularly helpful place and well worth the time. 106-page booklet from the Swiss tour- Returning to S 38, the route turns south toward Bormio, Tirano and on ist office www.myswitzerland.com( ) is to Lake Como. First, however, it is necessary to climb the spectacular Stel- Gourmet Travel: Swiss Specialties and vio Pass, certainly one of the greatest in the Alps. The east slope has 48, Gastronomic Experiences. (Although yes 48, hairpin turns. The pass reaches an elevation of 9,309 feet. By com- the most recent edition was published parison, the tallest mountain in Germany, the Zugspitze, is only 419 feet in 2008, most of the entries are still higher at the summit. The Michelin Green Guide gives the road to Stelvio current). And remember that when a three-star rating. After Stelvio, it’s all down hill to the lake. traveling in Switzerland, it’s also handy to carry along menu transla- Parkhotel zur Linde, Göflanerstrasse 35, Schlanders, I-39028, Südtirol, Italy, tors (printed or electronic) in French, tel. +39/0473/730060, www.parkhotel-linde.it, [email protected]. German, and Italian. Double room rates: €67 to €84 per person, including breakfast and dinner Remember, too, that thousands Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, Andreas-Hofer-Strasse 8, I-39028, Schlanders of Swiss hotels can be booked at the Südtirol, Italy, tel. +39/0473 621 400, www.vierjahreszeiten.it, info@vi- Gemut.com website via our affiliation erjahreszeiten.it. Double room rates: from €109 including breakfast and with Priceline-owned booking.com. dinner.

Gemütlichkeit 10 March 2013 “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com www.gemut.com the excellent travel packager, Untours Affordable Castle Contact: Dr. Manfred von Continued from page 1 (www.untours.com, 888-868-6871), as Crailsheim, D-8802 Schloss Sommers- one of their products: a week in July dorf, Germany, tel. +49/09805/91920, While an overnight or two is pos- at Sommersdorf including a rental www.schloss-sommersdorf.de. sible, Sommersdorf is best suited car, a stocked refrigerator, and on-the- This is hardly a ringing recom- for stays of a week or more, and it scene travel advice if needed, is $1,698 makes a great headquarters for seeing mendation, but the restaurant of the for two persons. If you stay for two Hotel Bürger Palais in Anspach serves this part of Germany. Such towns as weeks it’s $2638. Nürnberg, Rothenberg ob der Tauber, ample portions of decent food. Out- Daily Rates: Dinkelsbühl and Schwabisch Hall are Rooms and apart- door dining in the hotel garden is very all within a short drive. Würzburg, ments are priced from €104 to €140 pleasant. Bad Mergentheim, Wertheim and depending on room and length of Hotel Bürger Palais Restaurant, Bamberg are a bit farther but still stay. An additional, connecting bed- Neustadt 48, D-8800 Ansbach, tel. good day-trip candidates. Anspach, room costs from €68 to €85 per day. +49/0981/95131, http://www.hotel- too, is of some interest, even if it’s just Breakfast is extra. buerger-palais.com. to find a restaurant since the town of Sommersdorf is a bit light in that category. Four Hours in Bratislava The Schloss is highly recommend- Excursion from Vienna? It’s both of which were torn down in the ed for families. Children, particularly, perfectly ok if you ask the question; ‘60s to make way for the ugly road will cotton to the idea of living in a why, if you’re in Vienna, do you need and bridge. real castle. As you might expect in to go anywhere else? Since we don’t Behind the cathedral are the an 800-year-old building there are a have much of an answer, we’ll just few rough spots but its apartments winding streets of the city’s old town. sidestep and get on with our daytrip Since the old quarter is not that big, and double rooms are comfortable to the Slovakian capital. and authentic. The former all have the best thing to do is wander down The fun way to go there is via the living room, bedroom, bathroom and any street that seems interesting. It 75-minute water taxi on the Danube. kitchenette and are equipped with is impossible to get lost and eventu- It’s €30 to €35 roundtrip. Add €5 if telephone, radio and satellite-TV. ally you will wind up passing the you want a reserved seat. Cheaper most impressive parts. Be sure to We stayed in one of the doubles. It and easier is one of the frequent walk up Venturska and Michalska was huge, with a canopied bed, and trains that take about an hour. ulica toward the small Baroque tower loaded with antique furniture. Once in town start at Rybne Na- over St. Michael’s Gate, which you The Baron is a wonderful host mestie. If you need strength before can climb for a closer view of the old who dotes on his guests. He espe- starting out, take an immediate break town. Venturska and Michalska were cially likes to take visitors on late- at the coffeehouse Korso, which is on the old town’s finest streets and home night forays into catacombs under the square next to the bridge. Then, to most of the nobility. Today the area the adjacent chapel, where they are cross under the bridge and walk up is lined with outdoor cafe tables and introduced to the castle’s collec- the steep hill toward the castle. The some of the city’s better shops. tion of mummies, including several road passes some lovely little houses Probably the most attractive Crailsheim ancestors and a Swedish before turning into stairs, and then square is Hlavane namestie. It hosts colonel still wearing his boots who finally reaches the wide green ter- a small crafts market throughout was interred during the Thirty Years races surrounding Bratislava Castle. the summer, and larger ones during War (1618-1648). Macabre, but in- From here are sweeping views over Easter and Christmas. At the top of teresting. Guests are also frequently the spires of the old town, the wide the square is the lovely tile roof of the invited into the Baron’s private quar- Danube and suburb of Petrzalka’s Old Town Hall. ters for a glass of wine. full panoply of apartment buildings. Walk through the courtyard and Schloss Sommersdorf is a Was- All three views are stunning in their out the other side to reach another serburg or water castle and its stone own way. attractive square, Primacialne names- towers and ramparts are protected Afterwards, walk back to the old tie. The pink building is the Primatial by a moat and several ponds which town, crossing the road via the small Palace, where the Treaty of Pressburg are home to ducks and swans. There stone pedestrian bridge next to St. was signed. Next door is the tourist is a lovely garden, a swimming pool, Martin’s Cathedral. Here you can office and then the recently reopened and grounds for strolling. The castle walk along the last remaining stretch Old City Market. Less dramatic and was replaced by a perma- of the city’s 13th-century wall. Un- much smaller than the Old Pest Mar- nent, stone bridge in the 19th century. fortunately, what doesn’t remain is ket in Budapest, Bratislava’s Old City It should be noted that Schloss the city’s majestic 19th-century syna- Market is still worth popping into Sommersdorf can be booked through gogue and its former Jewish quarter, to scan the few booths selling veg-

Gemütlichkeit 11 March 2013 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com etables and handicrafts. There is also The Chicken Dijon and the vague- We Recommend a good bakery, sandwich shop and ly spicy Chicken Jose are good picks, This listing of good value, mid-priced hotels in popular desti- stand-up creperie. A more extensive as is the steak Montenegro (€8.5; pork nation cities is intended for fast reference. Additional hotels open-air market can be found at the chop fried in potato dough) and of and links to hotel websites is in the “Hotels” pages at www. corner of Zahradnicka and Mileti- course the fried cheese with tarter gemut.com. Hotels are arranged in price order, higher to lower. sauce (€6.5). Eat either in the small Berlin cova, a 10-minute tram ride away Hotel Art Nouveau, Leibnizstr. 59, tel. +49/030/327 7440, (tram #12). round restaurant (its name means [email protected], www.hotelartnouveau.de “Dusty Bastion”) or in the lovely gar- Hotel Domus, Uhlandstrasse 49, Germany D-10719, tel. Back toward the river, and near den courtyard in back. The service is +49/030/882041, fax 882 0410, [email protected] to the start of our tour, is Hviezdo- Bern slow but friendly. Hotel Bristol, Schauplatzgasse 10, CH-3011, tel. +41/31/311 slavovo namestie. This is the home 0101, fax 311 9479, email [email protected] of the city’s main cultural venues, • Prasna Basta, Zamocnicka Hotel Kreuz, Zeughausgasse 41, CH-3000, tel. +41/031/329 the Komorna Opera House, Slo- 11, tel +421/07/54 43 49 57, www. 9595, fax 329 95 96, [email protected] prasnabasta.sk Lucerne vak Philharmonic, and the Slovak Hotel Wilden Mann, Bahnhofstrasse 30, CH-6000 Luzern, tel. National Theater; ground zero for +41/041/2101666, fax 2101629, [email protected] opera, ballet, symphony, and drama. Modra gula Hotel Cascada, Bundesplatz 18, CH-6003 Lucerne, tel: +41/041/226 80 88, fax 226 80 00, [email protected] If you only have time for one (and it Perched atop a modern building, Munich is worth making time), visit the Na- with lovely views of the castle and Hotel Exquisit, Pettenkoferstr. 3, tel. +49/089/ 551 99 0, fax tional Theater. The interior is just as parliament, Modra gula is an atmo- 551 99 499, [email protected]. Hotel Adria, Liebigstrasse 8a, D-80538 München, tel. ornate as the exterior. spheric choice for an outdoor evening +49/089/242 1170, e-mail: [email protected] Of course, you must try one of dinner in the summertime. Beautiful Hotel Kraft, Schillerstr. 49, tel. +49/089/594823-24, fax 550 sunsets free of charge. This Italian 3856, [email protected] Bratislava’s restaurants and visit Rothenburg ob der Tauber some of the city’s craft shops. The menu features about a dozen pasta Reichs-Küchenmeister, Kirchplatz 8, Rothenburg o.d. Tau- ber, Germany D-91541, tel. +49/09861/97 00, fax 97 04 09, best of the latter is in the old town, dishes at €6-€11, a few risottos and familiar specialities such as saltimboca [email protected] Twigi’s (Klariska ulica), has an Hotel Hornburg, Hornburgweg 28, D-91541, tel. eclectic mix of colorful gifts and and bruschetta. Sharp, formal service +049/09861/8480, fax 5570, [email protected], from waiters dressed in white shirts www.hotelhornburg.de handmade items. There are also good Salzburg & Environs shops at the bottom of Hlavne na- and black bow-ties. Schloss Haunsperg , A-5411 Oberalm bei Hallein, Ham- merstrasse 32, tel. +43/06245/80662, fax 85680, info@ mestie. Another place is Obchodna • Modra gula, Suche Myto 6, tel. schlosshaunsperg.com ulica, the city’s main shopping street +421/07/58 50 40 07 Hotel Struber, Nonntaler Hauptstrasse 35, Austria A-5020 tel. just outside of the old town. This +43/0662/843 728, fax 843 728 8, [email protected] Klub F Hotel Jedermann, Rupertgasse 25, Austria A-5020, tel. pedestrian boulevard boasts a num- +43/0662/873241-0, [email protected] ber of craft stores, but the best is the This tiny cellar restaurant in the Vienna complex of shops at Obchodna 64, old town has a small menu, but a big Hotel Römischer Kaiser, Annagasse 16, A-1010, tel +43/01/512 77 51 0, [email protected]. called Uluv. There are two shops at heart. The vaulted brick ceilings are Altstadt Vienna, Kirchengasse 41, tel. +43/01/526 3399-0, the front; one specializes in textiles, attractive and the menu features more fax 523 4901, [email protected], www.altstadt.at Pension Aviano, Marco-D’Aviano-Gasse 1, tel. +43/01/512 the other sells traditional dolls and vegetables and greens than most Slo- 8330, fax 512 8330 6, [email protected] handmade pottery. The courtyard be- vak restaurants. The service is par- Zürich hind is lined with more craft shops, ticularly friendly and efficient. Hotel Florhof, Florhofgasse 4, Switzerland CH-8001, tel. 41/01/261 4470, fax 261 4611, [email protected] some staffed by artisans who show • Klub F, Venturksa 18, tel. Hotel Arlette, Stampfenbachstrasse 26, Switzerland CH- visitors how the various products are +421/07/54 43 03 60 8001, tel. +41/01/25 20 032, fax 25 20 932, hotel.arlette@ made. One makes pottery, another bluwin.ch Frankfurt Airport has hand loom demonstrations, a Korso Steigenberger Esprix Hotel Frankfurt Airport, Cargo third carves wooden toys, and the City Süd, D-60549 , tel. +49/069/69 70 99, fax 69 70 94 44, Everybody’s favorite Bratislava [email protected] fourth makes an incredible range of coffeehouse has an attractive tradi- Hotel Birkenhof, von-Eiff-Str 37, Hanau-Steinheim, D-63456, things from jewelry to kitchen imple- tional interior and a large cobblestone tel. +49/06181/648 80, fax 64 88 39, info@HotelBirkenhof. ments out of wire. de, www.hotelbirkenhof.de (25-minuted from airport) plaza out front. Proper coffee and a Hotel Dreieich, Frankfurter Str. 49, Langen , D-63225, tel. filling breakfast make this a good start +49/06103/91 50, fax 52 030. [email protected] Restaurants to the day. Later, pastries appear for a Munich Airport Daniel’s Hotel, Haupstrasse 11, Halbergmoos-Goldach, Prasna Basta refreshing midday snack. Korso also D-85399, tel. +49/0811/55120, fax 551213, info@hotel- offers a full menu, but we can only daniels.de, www.hotel-daniels.de Some of the best food in the city. vouch for the cabbage soup, which is Hotel Hoyacker Hof, Freisinger Landstrasse 9a, D-85748 Appetizers include Armenian salad Garching b. München, tel. +49/089/326 9900, fax 320 7243, surprisingly good, considering that [email protected] (shredded carrots with garlic, €2.8), Korso is neither a grimy bar nor a Zürich Airport smoked trout with herb butter (€4) stand up cafeteria. Mövenpick Zürich Airport, Walter-Mittelholzerstrasse 8, and pickeled camembert cheese CH-8152 Glattbrugg, tel. +41/01/808 88 88, fax 808 88 77, (€2.4). The onion soup (prasnacibalac- • Korso, Hviezdoslavovo names- [email protected] Hotel Fly Away, Marktgasse 19, Zürich-Kloten, CH-8302, tel. ka, €2.7) is delicious. tie 11, tel +421/07/54434974, café +41/01/804 4455, [email protected] 8am-midnight daily

Gemütlichkeit 12 March 2013