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Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. -
Historic Furnishings Assessment, Morristown National Historical Park, Morristown, New Jersey
~~e, ~ t..toS2.t.?B (Y\D\L • [)qf- 331 I J3d-~(l.S National Park Service -- ~~· U.S. Department of the Interior Historic Furnishings Assessment Morristown National Historical Park, Morristown, New Jersey Decemb r 2 ATTENTION: Portions of this scanned document are illegible due to the poor quality of the source document. HISTORIC FURNISHINGS ASSESSMENT Ford Mansion and Wic·k House Morristown National Historical Park Morristown, New Jersey by Laurel A. Racine Senior Curator ..J Northeast Museum Services Center National Park Service December 2003 Introduction Morristown National Historical Park has two furnished historic houses: The Ford Mansion, otherwise known as Washington's Headquarters, at the edge of Morristown proper, and the Wick House in Jockey Hollow about six miles south. The following report is a Historic Furnishings Assessment based on a one-week site visit (November 2001) to Morristown National Historical Park (MORR) and a review of the available resources including National Park Service (NPS) reports, manuscript collections, photographs, relevant secondary sources, and other paper-based materials. The goal of the assessment is to identify avenues for making the Ford Mansion and Wick House more accurate and compelling installations in order to increase the public's understanding of the historic events that took place there. The assessment begins with overall issues at the park including staffing, interpretation, and a potential new exhibition on historic preservation at the Museum. The assessment then addresses the houses individually. For each house the researcher briefly outlines the history of the site, discusses previous research and planning efforts, analyzes the history of room use and furnishings, describes current use and conditions, indicates extant research materials, outlines treatment options, lists the sources consulted, and recommends sourc.es for future consultation. -
Qinqiang Opera Drama Costume Connotation and Aesthetic
2nd International Conference on Education Technology, Management and Humanities Science (ETMHS 2016) Qinqiang opera drama costume connotation and aesthetic implication 1, a Yugang Chen 1Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology, Jiangxi, Nanchang, 330201 [email protected] Keywords: Qinqiang opera drama; Clothing; The cultural connotation Abstract. Qinqiang opera drama is one of the most exquisite stylized performance of traditional Chinese local operas. Qinqiang opera drama clothing, and other theatrical performances of traditional clothing similarity is exquisite and stylized, decorative effect as well as the audiences in the symbolization of abstract feelings, dramatic clothes in qinqiang opera drama very expressive aesthetics and art. Introduction Qinqiang opera drama as a traditional Chinese drama conductions, its dramatic clothes also represents the character appearance of traditional drama clothing, under the stylized costumes or wear shows of the respect and inheritance on traditional culture. Studies of qinqiang opera costume for one of the models, style characteristic, found that it contains the cultural connotation and aesthetic implication, the essence of traditional clothing, for the development of qinqiang opera drama has a positive and far-reaching significance. The formation of Qinqiang opera drama clothing Qin has been active in shanxi, gansu and the northwest region is the vast land of an ancient opera. The earliest qinqiang opera originated in shanxi guanzhong area, from the perspective of the change of type c, Qin Sheng, qin three stages. In the qianlong period reached for her best. From the point of geography, shanxi, gansu, ningxia, qinghai, xinjiang northwest five provinces close to geographical culture, so the ancient qin, with its wide sound big voice spoke quickly popular in this area. -
The Rights of War and Peace Book I
the rights of war and peace book i natural law and enlightenment classics Knud Haakonssen General Editor Hugo Grotius uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu ii ii ii iinatural law and iienlightenment classics ii ii ii ii ii iiThe Rights of ii iiWar and Peace ii iibook i ii ii iiHugo Grotius ii ii ii iiEdited and with an Introduction by iiRichard Tuck ii iiFrom the edition by Jean Barbeyrac ii ii iiMajor Legal and Political Works of Hugo Grotius ii ii ii ii ii ii iiliberty fund ii iiIndianapolis ii uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu This book is published by Liberty Fund, Inc., a foundation established to encourage study of the ideal of a society of free and responsible individuals. The cuneiform inscription that serves as our logo and as the design motif for our endpapers is the earliest-known written appearance of the word “freedom” (amagi), or “liberty.” It is taken from a clay document written about 2300 b.c. in the Sumerian city-state of Lagash. ᭧ 2005 Liberty Fund, Inc. All rights reserved Printed in the United States of America 09 08 07 06 05 c 54321 09 08 07 06 05 p 54321 Frontispiece: Portrait of Hugo de Groot by Michiel van Mierevelt, 1608; oil on panel; collection of Historical Museum Rotterdam, on loan from the Van der Mandele Stichting. Reproduced by permission. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Grotius, Hugo, 1583–1645. [De jure belli ac pacis libri tres. English] The rights of war and peace/Hugo Grotius; edited and with an introduction by Richard Tuck. p. cm.—(Natural law and enlightenment classics) “Major legal and political works of Hugo Grotius”—T.p., v. -
The Lining of Futou (Chinese Traditional Male Headwear) Is Called As Jinzi, Whose Produc
G Model CULHER-3209; No. of Pages 9 ARTICLE IN PRESS Journal of Cultural Heritage xxx (2017) xxx–xxx Available online at ScienceDirect www.sciencedirect.com Original article Investigating the materials and manufacture of Jinzi: The lining of Futou (Chinese traditional male headwear) from the Astana Cemeteries, Xinjiang, China a,b b,∗ b c b Huijuan Mai , Yimin Yang , Hongen Jiang , Bo Wang , Changsui Wang a Key Laboratory of Vertebrate Evolution and Human Origins of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Institute of Vertebrate Paleontology and Paleoanthropology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing 100044, People’s Republic of China b Department of Archaeology and Anthropology, University of Chinese Academy of Sciences, Beijing 100049, People’s Republic of China c Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region Museum, Ürümchi 830000, People’s Republic of China a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t Article history: Headwear research is an integral part of costume study, which is regarded as a cultural symbol of human Received 22 September 2016 society. In China, the lining of Futou (Chinese traditional male headwear) is called as Jinzi, whose produc- Accepted 28 February 2017 tion information is little known. This paper focuses on the analysis of materials and manufacture of Jinzi, Available online xxx found in Astana Cemeteries (dated from about the 3rd to the 9th centuries C.E.), Turpan Basin, Xinjiang, China. The fibers of Jinzi were identified by FTIR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy), Light Micro- Keywords: scope Examination and Drying-Twist Test; while the black pigment was characterized through Raman Headwear Spectroscopy. -
Temple University Vendor List
Temple University Vendor List 19Nine LLC Contact: Aaron Loomer 224-217-7073 5868 N Washington Indianapolis, IN 46220 [email protected] www.19nine.com Number Type Status Contracts: 1112269 Standard Effective Products: Otherwear - Shorts Stationary, Greeting Cards & N - Stickers T-Shirts - T-Shirts 3Click Inc Contact: Joseph Domosh 833-325-4253 PO Box 2315 Bala Cynwyd, PA 19004 [email protected] www.3clickpromotions.com Number Type Status Contracts: 1114550 Internal Usage Effective Products: Housewares - Water Bottles Miscellaneous - Koozie Miscellaneous - Cell Phone Accessory Item Miscellaneous - Sunglasses School Supplies - Pen Short sleeve - t-shirt short sleeve Stationary, Greeting Cards & N - Notepad 47 Brand LLC Contact: Kevin Meisinger 781-320-1384 15 Southwest Park Westwood, MA 02090 [email protected] www.twinsenterprise.com Number Type Status Contracts: 1013854 Standard Effective 1013856 Co-branded/Operation Hat Trick Effective 1013855 Vintage Marks Effective Products: Accessories - Gloves Accessories - Scarf Fashion Apparel - Sweater Fashion Apparel - Rugby Shirt Fleece - Sweatshirt Fleece - Sweatpants Headwear - Visor Headwear - Knit Caps 01/21/2020 Page 1 of 79 Headwear - Baseball Cap Mens/Unisex Socks - Socks Otherwear - Shorts Replica Football - Football Jersey Replica Hockey - Hockey Jersey T-Shirts - T-Shirts Womens Apparel - Womens Sweatpants Womens Apparel - Capris Womens Apparel - Womens Sweatshirt Womens Apparel - Dress Womens Apparel - Sweater 4imprint Inc. Contact: Karla Kohlmann 866-624-3694 101 Commerce -
Of Hats and History
Black sinamay cartwheel hat with asymmetrical brim with draped black mesh. Miss Jones by Stephen Jones, ca. 1990s. Ryerson FRC2009.01.608. Gift of Kathleen Kubas. OF HATS & HISTORY By Dr. Ingrid Mida Hats are one of the most visible means to signal power, class, status, belonging and/or conformity to modes of dress. After all, for centuries kings and queens November 14, 2013 wore crowns to signal their power and dynastic position and their servants would be required to remove their hat in their presence to demonstrate their subservience. Hats can also convey emotional states (mourning) or marital status (bridal veils). Although hats, outside of ones worn as part of a uniform or religious affiliation, are now generally worn as optional accessories to convey personality or as a form of fashionable ornamentation, it was once considered unseemly for a refined gentleman or woman to appear in public without a hat. Like other dress artifacts, hats reflect the social and cultural attitudes of their period. In terms of fashion history, Canadians often overlook the fact that the fashion for men’s hats created out of beaver felts was an important part of the history and the settlement of this country. Felt was made out of animal hairs and the highest quality hats were made out of beaver pelts. Felt hats were once called “beavers” and signalled that the wearer was rich. The purchase of such a hat was a costly proposition because demand for beaver pelts greatly surpassed the supply. One of the oldest companies in the world, the Hudson’s Bay Company, was founded in 1670, exporting furs from Canada to meet European demand. -
Fashion Collection, 1900 - Bulk Dates: 1940-1960
Fashion Collection, 1900 - bulk dates: 1940-1960 Special Collections Department/Long Island Studies Institute Contact Information: Special Collections Department Axinn Library, Room 032 123 Hofstra University Hempstead, NY 11549 Phone: (516) 463-6411, or 463-6404 Fax: (516) 463-6442 E-mail: [email protected] http://www.hofstra.edu/Libraries/SpecialCollections Compiled by: [J. Boucher] Last updated by: Date Completed: [2003] [M. O’Connor] [Aug. 24, 2006] Fashion Collection, 1900 - (bulk dates, 1940-1960) 11 c.f. The Fashion Collection was established by a donation from Eunice Siegelheim and her sister Bernice Wolfson. The core of the collection is 16 hats from the 1930s through the 1950s. The sisters, Eunice and Bernice wore these hats to social events on Long Island. Many were made and purchased in Brooklyn and other parts of New York. The Fashion Collection captures the spirit of various eras with artifacts and illustrations showing how people dressed for various social events. Many of the items in the Fashion Collection correspond to items in other collections, such as photographs from the Image Collection as well as the Long Island History of Sports Collection. Photographs of street scenes in the Image Collection show women of different eras on the sidewalk promenades of Long Island Towns. The Long Island History of Sports Collection includes photographs and programs from Belmont Park’s circa 1910. In addition to the hats, the collection contains other clothing artifacts such as men’s ties, hatboxes, dresses and shoes, from Ms. Siegelheim as well as other donors. The collection also supports fashion research with a run of American Fabrics Magazine, a trade publication that served the garment industry in the 1940s and 1950s. -
The Billboard 1909-06-19: Vol 21 Iss 25
PRICE TEN CENTS FIFTY-SIX PAGES, REGISTERED IN UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE. IVolome XXL No. 25. CINCINNATI-NEW YORK-CHICAGO LILLIAN LORRAINE, in The Follies of 1909, pnge Fabius Henrion DON’T PATRONIZE US CHEAP If the prices that you paid before we made ELECTRIC PIANO MUSIC, HAbtolut*!; were satisfactory. Remember wo are Non-Braskabl* Rultabir for amsll forcing Piano Manufacturers to estab¬ tbratre and murlDS lish fair prices; if you want to always ptrlnra ahowa. VVa carry these chairs ONLY have them, and get music that is su¬ In Block and eaa perior in all respects to what you had ship Immedlattly. iWcoDd'band chairs NOISELESS to tahe and look pleased at, then give also aeatlns (or ost <«f door uae. kdd. us your business. Dept. B. 8TBB1 CARBONS KUKNITURE CO.. (> r a n d Rapida. MUSIC FOR ALL MAKES OF Mlchlfan. Boatos ON A. C. (NBce Conarsaa PIANOS at., Boaton, Maas Write for Samples and our List of Monadnock Bldf.. FILM EXCHANGES. San FYanclaco. Cal.; N. Y. Ollire, 44 Dark Ilacs. —Sole Importers— ^ li Z J Less than a dozen, fl.50 ei Edward E. Cary Co UNITED STATES MUSIC CO ■IHCORPORATEI LARGEST MAKERS IN THE WORLD 1030-36 N. Western Avenue, - • . CHICAGO, U. 8. A. - ■ -- Write for Catalorua. - Send In your orders for the Moving Picture Machines, PITTSBURG Stereopticons, Slides, Accessories. FOffTIIEt MADE II A tIMLE SEAtOI CHAS. M. STEBBINS, Operatina the “Ctrcllna Ware" Amuaement Oa CHIP RINGS 1028 MAIN STREET. - - KANSAS CITY, MO. Tice. If you want to KLEVATB MANKIND. If Trice, $2..'>G per doa. -
Filitton County News +111.1 I III Hotie L'aper - ‘Liperior Coverage
Murray State's Digital Commons Fulton County News Newspapers 4-19-1935 Fulton County News, April 19, 1935 Fulton County News Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.murraystate.edu/fca Recommended Citation Fulton County News, "Fulton County News, April 19, 1935" (1935). Fulton County News. 91. https://digitalcommons.murraystate.edu/fca/91 This Newspaper is brought to you for free and open access by the Newspapers at Murray State's Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Fulton County News by an authorized administrator of Murray State's Digital Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. • LOWE'S CAFE INVITES YOU TO EAT FASTER DINNER THERE I filitton County News +111.1 i III hotie l'Aper - ‘liperior Coverage •••••••••••• I I I i 1 111 \ I \ I 1 1% 1:110 11 P. P135. •• I 111111 It I 1111t 1 1 1 \ III I 414144(1(4 1.1;t4i,n \ ;SOUTH FULTON SC1-10OL Km I Lions To Stage SUcILL 1, I \ II I I, II' `. 1 \ 1 III 41'A New Theatre To I , . 1 .1. 1,1 1 "I Annual Laster II 1, 1, 1 1 . ii.. 1 Open itt Fulton Here 11 4 I .1.1 • • ' 1 1 1; ,1 I.1 it •I. 1 •,.. % 41 .• I, 11...i, I. won.' o • o About May h.t. Egg Hupit 1111. I. 11111111 kV111111111..: C11111 41411 1:. 1 .11:11.• 1.11 1 1 . 1.1..11 t%'11 1,11, III . '1V. I.I.I.' , . ,1 1 1 , .... I 111 I,' .114 i 111..111 111> 1111.1 till''' 1,,,,,,' . -
Les Coiffures
Semaine 14 – ORTHOGRAPHE ET VOCABULAIRE Les coiffures 1. Trouvez les 30 fautes d’orthographe cachées dans ce teste extrait de la revue Animagine : Louis XIII perdit ses cheveux à trente ans et inaugura le porc port de la perruque. L’usage de ces postiches faits de faux cheveux était fréquent pour les vieillards des classes privilégiées, par contre un jeune noble aurait eu honte de porter cet attribut. Mais ce que le Roi fait devient coutume et la nouvelle coife coiffe royale faite de cheveux artificiels fut adoptée par la Cour. Louis XIV possédait une perruque différente pour chaque occupation de la journée, cette mode perdurat perdura sous Louis XV. Pendant le règne de Louis XVI, toute la bonne société portait perruque et les perruquiers pouvaient vivre heureux. A cette époque, on comptait environ douze cents perruquiers qui tenaient leur privilège(s) de Saint Louis et employaient six mille personnes. La poudre à perruque était un amidon vendu à prix d’or. Les parfumeurs assuraient détenir un extraordinaire secret de fabrication, alors qu’il ne s’agissait que d’un amidon réduis réduit en poudre et passer passé au travers d’un tamis de soie très serrée. Les boutiques de perruques n’étaient pas réputées pour leur hygiène… C’est la révolution de 1789 qui sonna le glas des perruques, le symbole d’une noblesse vieillissante. Alors, l’expression « tête a à perruque » désignait les vieillards obstinés et nostalgiques qui conservaient l’habitude des faux cheveux, et plus généralement toute personne démodée et vieillotte. Il fallut attendre la fin du XIXème siècle pour voir ressurgir resurgir une profession qui avait quasiment disparu(e).