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By NATHAN FONG NATHAN By Asia meets the Pacific Asia meets the Regional Hawaiian 2 hawaii Hawaiian Regional Cuisine

Hawaii hawaii Where on Earth

onolulu, with its white sand Waikiki Beach, has been a popular travel destination from the first days of steamship travel in the early 20th century to the current jet age. The exotic locale and Hawaiian people were immortalized by glamorous posters and retro postcards of the ocean liners en route from the Orient to the American west coast, in the first real signature Hadvertisements of the former Sandwich Islands. Sun-kissed, grass-skirted, long-haired Polynesian beauties and bronzed, muscled surfers lazed in their tropical paradise with the impressive extinct volcano, Diamond Head, in the background, a sure contrast to the conservatism back home on the mainland.

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It wasn’t until the tragedy of Pearl Harbour, however, and the release of Elvis Presley’s popular Blue Hawaii, that Honolulu became a fixture on the commercial tourism map. Hawaii was an especially hot vacation spot in the 1970s and hawaii quickly became known as the exotic locale for the likes of TV’s Hawaii Five-O. And who could forget the time when The Brady Bunch took a family vacation in the tropical island paradise? TV and film buffs also saw stunning Hawaiian locales as the backdrop for Magnum PI, Lost, Baywatch, Jurassic Park, and most recently, the newly updated Hawaii Five-O. Throughout all these glamorous vista shots, there was rarely any reference to the regional of the islands, besides the ubiquitous and coconuts. There was the occasional mention of traditional native staples such as the somewhat unpalatable poi, the fermented paste of mashed taro root (akin in texture to wallpaper paste), and to kalua , a whole pig, covered in leaves and cooked in an imu, the Hawaiian underground . The is basically steamed in the hot, covered oven until tender, then shredded, somewhat like Latino carnitas, but infused with heady smokiness. My first visit to the Hawaiian Islands was with my family in the mid 70s, when the local cuisine consisted mainly of dishes made from ingredients and produce shipped from the mainland...frozen vegetables, under-ripened fruit and frozen meat. was basically badly prepared, either fried or overcooked. It was during this trip that I became acquainted with such Serves 4 it “Hawaiian” culinary delights as saimin (the island’s version of Japanese ramen), Spam masubi (a local sushi variant that has since become very popular with the visiting Japanese), the aforementioned kalua and its accompanying poi. Local James McDonald’s Pacific O , dishes such as the plantation-origin, plate of loco moco located in Lahaina on Maui, serves stunning (two scoops of , topped with two hamburger patties, onion cuisine and emphasizes the freshness of the gravy and fried eggs, usually accompanied with scoops of macaroni salad), were popular. These plate-, which produce grown on the restaurant’s own farm. originated in the plantations, were large enough to set me This wonderfully simple showcases the thinking about a full cardiac check-up, even if all I did was read fresh ingredients grown in the islands. about them on a !

Heat oil and 2 Tbs butter Oil 1 6 Tbs in a saucepan and set over medium heat. Butter 6 Tbs, softened 2 Add shallots and rice and stir for about 1 minute until rice is Shallots coated. finely chopped, 2 Tbs 3 Slowly add the carrot juice a little at a time until absorbed Arborio Rice 2 cups by the rice over a period of approximately 10 minutes. Carrot Juice 4 cups, warmed 4 Stir in and continue stirring until they are slightly Heirloom Carrots softened but still retain a thinly sliced, 1 cup slight crunch.

Asiago Cheese shredded, ½ cup 5 Add cheese and the remaining butter and season to taste. Serve immediately. above Luptatur aligent voluptatur rest facing page & Pepper to taste Luptatur aligent voluptatur rest

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Hawaiian Regional Cuisine Regional Hawaiian uly–September 2011 July–September uly–September 2011 July–September international & travel taste Hawaiian Regional Cuisine hawaii

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Cook above Luptatur aligent voluptatur rest. it Serves 4 But significant changes have taken place in island cuisine over the last couple of decades. Some 20 years ago a group of dedicated chefs formed a collective group called the Hawaiian Kona Kampachi Carpaccio Regional Chefs. They were focused on using local, regional and seasonal island ingredients in their and proving that with Miso Aioli they were self-sufficient and didn’t need to rely solely on products grown and harvested across the ocean. The luxurious Halekulani Hotel, with its tranquil In August 1991, twelve of Hawaii’s most talented chefs from gardens and stunning backdrop of Diamond Head, is throughout the Islands gathered on Maui and pioneered a new a Waikiki landmark. The hotel’s executive , Vikram culinary concept: “Hawaiian Regional Cuisine.” The premise was Garg, has an exuberance for working with Hawaiian to elevate the culinary experience in Hawaii by featuring the regional ingredients. This simple showcases the local foods of land and sea in dishes that expressed each chef’s local Big Island Kampachi (skipjack), but snapper or own distinctive style of cooking. The results were exciting, halibut make good substitutes. Use yellow or white creative presentations and delectable dining experiences. saikyo miso for the aioli for a milder flavour. Hawaiian Regional Cuisine has come to incorporate many interpretations and definitions but remains fundamentally a contemporary style of cooking that showcases local ingredients Place the kampachi slices Kampachi Fillet 1 12 oz, sliced into 8 equal parts between two bags and smash with the Pickled Daikon bottom of a pan to form a Hawaiian regional Chefs have put 2 oz, diced thin sheet.

Ogo Seaweed Mix the miso and Hawaii on the international culinary map or sea asparagus, ½ oz 2 Japanese mayonnaise in a small bowl to create the and have inspired and mentored Red Radish 1 oz, shaved or thinly sliced miso aioli. … a new generation of talented chefs 4 per fillet Chives, 3 To serve, smear miso aioli on a plate and place the Lemon Juice kampachi on top. Top and borrows from all of the ethnic influences you’ll find in ½ a lemon with ogo, pickled daikon, Hawaii, from the local indigenous Hawaiians to the plantation- radish, chives and sprinkle era immigrants of Chinese, Filipino and Japanese descent and & Freshly Ground with sea . more recent Korean and Vietnamese arrivals. Both Black Pepper collaboratively and individually, the Hawaiian Regional Chefs to taste 4 Squeeze a few drops of have put Hawaii on the international culinary map and have 2 Tbs lemon juice over before Miso paste, inspired and mentored a new generation of talented chefs who serving. 4 Tbs share their philosophy and have followed their lead. Japanese mayonnaise,

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Serves 4 as an appetizer Kataifi & Macadamia -Crusted

Fresh Kauai PrawnS hawaii with Big Island Baby Greens & Vinaigrette

This is one of Chef Chai Chawasoree’s signature from his award-winning restaurant, Chai’s Island Bistro at The Aloha Tower in Honolulu. It has won a number of awards, including Best Cook Seafood Dish and the People’s Choice Award at the annual Taste of Honolulu it event. Local island prawns are wrapped in shredded Greek phyllo and macadamia nuts, deep-fried until golden and served with a tart-sweet pineapple dressing.

Marinate the prawns Black Tiger Prawns 1 8, jumbo-sized, fresh, with lemon juice, salt de-veined, peeled and and pepper. The acid rinsed from the lemon juice above aligent olupta will the make shrimp aligent olupta Lemon Juice meat crunchy. just a dash 2 the prawns Salt & Pepper with bamboo sticks, to taste leaving an extra inch at the end; set aside. Bamboo Sticks 8 In a bowl, combine 3 makes ?? Flour flour, cornstarch, 3 Tbs, all-purpose macadamia nuts, egg and cold . Dip ineapple Vinaigrette Cornstarch the skewered prawns P 1 Tbs In a saucepan, combine all in the batter and then 1 Pineapple ingredients and bring to a boil. wrap with the kataifi. Macadamia Nuts Juice Simmer for 2–3 minutes. Serve finely chopped, 1Tbs ¼ cup at room temperature. 4 In a wok or deep Egg fryer, preheat the oil Sugar 1, medium-sized to about 375°F, then 2 Tbs fry the prawns for 3 Cold Water White ½ cup minutes or until they 2 Tbs are light brown. Kataifi Ketchup (shredded phyllo) or 5 Serve with pineapple 2 Tbs any thin , 1 box vinaigrette. with pineapple and Pinch of Salt a pinch mixed salad. 4 cups for deep Tabasco a dash Fresh Pineapple 4 pieces, about ¾“ thick, for garnish Cook Baby Greens 2 cups, for garnish it

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Cook Serves 4–6 it Ahi Poke Dip is hawaii 1 cup This wonderful spread Mayonnaise, served with the bread selection 1 Tbs Soy , at Hoku’s, the award-winning signature restaurant at the Garlic 1 clove, finely chopped beautiful Kahala Hotel and Resort. Situated along the Lemon Juice ½ a lemon Gold Coast on the east side of Diamond Head, beyond the Pickled Ginger vibrancy of Waikiki Beach, 2 Tbs, finely chopped the Kahala has been serving luminaries, celebrities, royalty, Sesame 1 tsp, roasted and guests seeking a quiet island experience for over Cilantro 1 tsp, coarsely chopped 45 years. The restaurant is renowned for serving Green Onions contemporary Island cuisine. 1 cup, finely chopped 1 Place all ingredients except for the Ahi Tuna 4 oz sushi grade, ¼ whipped cream in a bowl and mix well. -inch diced 2 Fold in whipped cream and keep in the refrigerator tightly covered. This Whipping Cream ½ cup, lightly whipped will last up to two days.

For the past two decades, such Hawaiian culinary luminaries multitude of Asian influences have encouraged over the years. His as Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi, Sam Choy, Mark Ellman and food, strongly influenced by his Chinese ancestry, reflects a fusion French ex-pat George Mavrothalassitis have spread their gospel style well adapted to the local palate. Chinese Gin Doi, a fried about the glory of regional Hawaiian cuisine. Thanks to their dumpling usually found at restaurants, is filled with duck dedicated and focused efforts, individuals and communities are and dried apricots. Won tons are stuffed with goat’s cheese, working together to build more locally-based, self-reliant food sundried tomatoes and sweet peppers. Garden spring rolls are economies based on domestic . These include new stuffed with vegetables and couscous pilaf, accompanied with “boutique” produce farms and aqua- (seaweed, salt water tangerine sauce. shrimp, lobster, abalone and fish) farms. Thai-born Chai Chawasoree, of Chai’s Island Bistro located at The new wave of Hawaiian cuisine continues to evolve in the The Aloha Tower, wraps local Kauai prawns in shredded filo hands of the second generation of talented chefs, many pastry (kataifi) and macadamia nuts, deep fries them until golden homegrown in the various islands. Honolulu Chef Glenn Chu’s and serves them with a pineapple vinaigrette. Russell Sui, with his popular, award-winning restaurant Indigo is situated on the popular restaurant, 3660 On The Rise, and Wayne Hirabayashi at border of Chinatown. Situated in several restored buildings that the helm of the award-winning Hoku’s in the stunning Kahala once housed Chinese tailor shops, the restaurant has multiple Hotel and Resort, both on Oahu, are two other notable chefs who rooms, including a wonderful lanai overlooking a park and continue to promote Hawaii’s great cuisine. Since 2000, Chef- fountain. The atmospheric lighting at night makes the restaurant owner James McDonald of Pacific O, located in the former mysterious, leaving diners wondering if they’ll catch a glimpse of whaling town of Lahaina on Maui, has served stunning regional the fictitious Charlie Chan around the next corner. Chu is fifth- cuisine with biodynamic and organic produce grown in nutrient- generation Hawaiian-Chinese and has grown up wandering the rich volcanic soil on his farm, just minutes away. An array of historic wet-markets of Chinatown, witnessing the changes that a produce, including , cabbage, turnips, lemongrass, heirloom

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Cook

Serves 6, as appetizers it Hamachi Tuna with Grapefruit Brûlée This simple, yet elegant, appetizer is also served at Hoku’s, at the Kahala Hotel and Resort.

Pat-dry grapefruit segments Hamachi Tuna 1 3 oz sashimi grade, as much as possible so sliced into 6 portions that they will brown nicely. Sprinkle with sugar. Chiso Leaf 6 pieces 2 Using a torch, burn sugar to caramelize; set aside. Pink Grapefruit 6 large segments 3 Take slices, one at a time, and dip into tempura Avocado 6 generous slices batter, the pieces at 365˚F until crispy Tempura Batter and golden. Remove and ½ cup set on a paper towel-lined sheet. Hawaiian Sea Salt to taste 4 To plate, place a piece of avocado tempura as the Juice this page to taste first layer. Then cover with Luptatur a piece of caramelized aligent Maui Sugar grapefruit and top with the voluptatur in the Raw sliced hamachi. Season rest. lightly with Hawaiian sea salt (Turbinado Sugar) 6 tsp and lime juice.

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carrots asparagus and tomatoes, is grown some 3000 feet above sea level on the slopes of an extinct volcano. McDonald

hawaii earnestly tries to grow and use as much as he can for his and about 75% of his menu is organic. The Hawaiian Regional chefs’ restaurant average at least 50% organic ingredients and most are trying to increase that percentage. I have visited Hawai’s almost every year since 1998 and have been impressed with the focus on the evolving Hawaiian cuisine. Long gone are the large plantations of sugarcane (remember the catchy C & H Sugar tune?) and pineapples (except for local consumption and tourism at the Dole plantation on Oahu) that once dominated the volcanic landscape. Instead, small farms are being developed and produce is being grown in response to demand from local chefs and islanders. Wonderful farmers’ markets such as Saturday’s KCC Farmer’s Market (located at the Cook foot of Diamond Head at the Kapiolani Community College), and the more recent Thursday Waikiki farmer’s market further up the coast at Ewa Beach are just two examples among many it that have sprouted up through the islands. Serves 4 These markets, unlike most of the mainland farmers’ markets, are made up of various stalls reflecting the multi-ethnic diversity of the islands and their Asian influence. Here you’ll find make- Crispy Fried shift kitchens deep-frying fresh Filipino lumpia, Korean style fried rice with kimchee and salmon, local taro infused with arlic and callion hrimp Japanese mochi, Vietnamese with their baguettes and G S S almond croissants, Chinese rice and fresh . A with Honey Chili Aioli wonderful cornucopia from an Asian melting pot! Here are some island favourites from some of the top Chef/Owner Russell Sui, Shrimp regional chefs, bringing some Hawaiian sun warmth to your 20 (size 20/26), although not one of the original tables…Aloha! peeled and deveined group of Hawaii Regional with tail on Chefs, is highly regarded as a talented island-born chef who Rice Flour ½ cup showcases regional cuisine. His highly acclaimed neighbourhood Garlic finely chopped, 4 Tbs restaurant has been popular with locals and tourists since its Green Onion opening in 1992. finely chopped, 4 Tbs

Gin 1 To make the aioli, mix mayonnaise, 2 Tbs honey, Sriracha and sweet chili sauce in a bowl until smooth. For spicier Oil 1 Tbs aioli, add more Sriracha. Season shrimp with salt and pepper Mayonnaise 2 ½ cup and coat with rice flour, shaking off any excess. Deep fry in oil at 350˚F Honey for about one minute and let drain. 1 Tbs 3 In a sauté pan over medium high Sriracha Chili heat, add oil and garlic and sauté Sauce until garlic turns a golden brown. ½ tsp Add gin and reduce to 1 ½ tsp. Remove from heat, add scallions and Sweet Chili Sauce 1 Tbs coat the shrimp with the mixture. Serve over honey chili aioli. Salt & Pepper to taste

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Serves 4 Cook it

Seared Moi hawaii with Cocoa Curry Sauce This recipe from Glenn Chu showcases a myriad of South-East Asian ingredients, from lemongrass and Thai chili to the unripened pods (cacao) grown on the Big Island. Moi is a delicate, moist fish that was once only raised and served for the Ali’i, or Hawaiian royalty. In the past, special ponds were built around where Waikiki Beach now lies; but today, the fish is now farmed commercially. If moi is unavailable in your local fish market, substitute with arctic char or snapper.

Olive Oil 1 Tbs Cocoa Bean Curry Sauce 1 In a hot sauté pan, add the olive Shallots minced, 1 Tbs oil and sauté the shallots, lemon grass, galangal, garlic, turmeric, Lemon Grass salt, and cocoa nibs until the minced (bottom 2-3 shallots are translucent. inches only), 1 tsp 2 Add Thai chili, lime leaf, Sriracha Galangal or Fresh chili sauce, coconut milk and Ginger water. Then cook on medium for 5 minced, 1 tsp to 10 minutes, or until thickened. Cocoa Bean Curry Sauce can be Garlic minced, 1 tsp stored, covered and refrigerated, up to 3 days. Turmeric Powder 2 tsp

Cocoa Nibs Moi Preparation ground, 1 tsp or substitute Season both sides Moi 1 unsweetened 2 filets, boned of fish with olive oil, chocolate (or arctic char salt and pepper. or snapper Pan fry until tender Thai Chili fillets, 6 oz 2 minced, ¼ tsp and cooked. Below aligent olupta aligent olupta each) Kosher Salt 3 Ladle sauce ½ tsp Olive Oil 1 Tbs over fish. Serve immediately with Sriracha Chili Green Onion steamed rice. Sauce 1 Tbs sliced, green part only, 4 Tbs

Water 2 Tbs Shiitake sliced, 1 cup Coconut Milk 1 cup Kosher Salt Sugar 1 Tbs & Freshly Ground Wild Lime Leaves Black 2 Pepper

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Makes 8–10 small cakes Black PeppercorN Chocolate CakeS This is one of those addictive, sinfully-rich, flourless chocolate cakes, made with only three main ingredients. It is one of Glenn Chu’s signature and he says “the secret to success is to gently blend the beaten eggs with the melted chocolate and not to over bake.” The cake will still be soft and pudding-like when removed from the oven, but it will firm up when cooled. It keeps almost indefinitely frozen but give the cake time to warm up, as chocolate always tastes better warm or at room temperature.

Butter and lightly flour 8–10 4 oz Unsalted Butter 1 1 cup, cut into chunks teacups, ramekins or molds and place on a baking sheet. Dark Semisweet In the top of a double boiler or in a Chocolate Chips 2 20 oz large, heatproof bowl fitted snugly over a saucepan with 2 inches Black Peppercorns water, melt butter and chocolate and coarsely ground, 2 tsp stir until smooth. When melted, add black pepper and the essential oils will Eggs 5, large, room start to perfume the air. temperature, whipped until light and frothy 3 Remove from heat and gently stir in eggs and spoon into prepared teacup Cocoa Powder molds. At this point the mixture can be 4 Tbs, for dusting refrigerated for several hours.

Strawberries & 4 Preheat oven to 325˚F, remove cups Whipped Cream from the refrigerator and bring back for garnish to room temperature. Bake the molds Cook on the tray for about 15 minutes or until cakes puff up. The outsides of the cakes should be set, but the centres will it still be quite soft.

5 Remove from oven and invert each … mold on a plate and let set for 10 the Secret to Success is minutes. Unfold by carefully lifting one … side of the mold. to gently blend and not … 6 Dust with cocoa powder and garnish to over bake with whipped cream and berries.

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hawaii Visit

it Chai’s Island Bistro 1 Aloha Tower Drive Honolulu, HI 96813-4815 www.chaisislandbistro.com

3660 On The Rise 3660 Waialae Avenue Honolulu, Hawaii 96816 Read www.3660.com Pacific O Restaurant it 505 Front St # 114 One of the original Lahaina, HI 96761-1188 group of Hawaiian www.pacificomaui.com Regional Chefs, Beverly Gannon Hoku’s opened the acclaimed The Kahala Hotel & Hali’imaile General Resort Store restaurant in rural 5000 Kahala Avenue Makawao on Maui, in Honolulu, HI 96816-5498 1988. Her eponymous www.kahalaresort.com/ , written with dining/hoku.cfm Bonnie Friedman (Ten Speed Press, 2000) Halekulani Hotel 2199 Kalia Road is as fresh today as Honolulu, HI 96815 when it was released over a decade ago. The www.halekulani.com durability of Gannon’s Sheraton Waikiki recipes are proof that the 2255 Kalakaua Ave new wave of Hawaiian Honolulu, HI 96815 cuisine she and like- www.sheraton-waikiki.com minded chefs initiated in the late 80s was not Hali’imaile General just a fad but the birth of Store the locavore movement 900 Haliimaile Road that has since swept Vancouver born NATHAN FONG Fong Makawao, HI 96768-9711 across mainland USA and segued from cooking and catering to a www.bevgannonrestaurants. much of the developed brilliant career as a food and props stylist com/haliimaile world. Gannon’s second for culinary print and film advertising, with cookbook Family-Style a distinguished international client list. In Meals at the Hali’imaile addition to leading tours of the Vancouver General Store, written markets and teaching cooking classes, with Joan Namkoong Nathan writes a regular column for the (Ten Speed Press, Vancouver Sun newspaper and a 2009) is another great popular blog called Fong on Food. collection of recipes www.fongonfood.com Click destined to become new Hawaiian classics. it

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