Madrid’s Best Christmas Markets 2014!

Madrid’s navideño spirit is as bright and festive as in any other European capital. Rows of lights down Paseo de la Castellana, chocolate con churros on New Year’s Day, the Three Kings’ parade… But before all that, there are the Christmas markets setting up all over the city and stocking their stalls with handcrafted wares, jewelry, gourmet delicacies and unique gift ideas from independent designers. Here are some of the best Christmas markets to mark in your calendars and flock to when you start your holiday shopping:

The Hovse:

image from el club express image from La Vermutería

For the curious and nosy ones out there, an excuse to peek into a beautiful Madrileño home seems too good to be true. After the success of last year’s pop-up market, ‘The Apartment’, this year brings ‘The Hovse‘ – one house, three floors, and 80 designers selling one-of-a-kind creations. There’s also a bar on the top floor run by pop-upLa Vermuteria – a great excuse for those who aren’t into shopping but want to tag along anyway. Now open until 24 December.

Calle General Arrando 40

Check out our events page for more details.

Mercado de Motores: Hosted in the old train museum, ‘Museo de Ferrocarril’, this market takes place in between old tracks and steam engines. Vintage clothing, a live band, artisanal products and trendy crowds are all to be found. The next and last running weekend for this market is the 20-21 December. Paseo de las Delicias 61

Also check out our full post on Mercado de Motores

Nomada Market:

There is something of a recent trend in transforming train stations into markets. Nomada is a great place to find original creations and craftsmanship from emerging designers, alongside DIY workshops; all below the glass ceiling of Madrid’s Chamartin train station. Pull out the sweater Grandma gave you last year and join in on National Ugly Christmas Sweater day for the market’s funniest Christmas edition, which only lasts for a few days. 12-14 December.

Attic of Estacion de Chamartin, Calle Agustín de Foxa

Check out our events page for more details.

La Industrial: A tiny market in comparison to the rest, but a great place to hunt for gifts you won’t find anywhere else. From hand-made bags printed with the map of the world to note books bound in Japanese origami paper, this Malasaña market is not one to miss when shopping for that quirky, special friend. Throughout December. Calle San Andres 8

Ciento y Pico:

image from Ciento y Pico

Now in its fifth year, Ciento y Pico unites over 30 small, local brands under one roof to sell their handmade crafts, original jewelry, vintage goods, or home decor worthy of any hipster’s haven. 18 – 21 December

Calle Velarde 14

Madrid Diferente: One of Madrid’s most established city-guide blogs is branching out into retail and hosting its own Christmas pop-up. With the name ‘Diferente Market’ we can only imagine that it will be stocked full of curious knick-knacks and unusual gift items. It will run over two weekends: 11-14 December and 18-21 December.

Calle San Vicente Ferrer 33 1001 Atmosphera:

The pop-up gallery, 1001 Atmosphera, is holding three high-end Christmas Market editions. The first Le Marché de Noël will be held this weekend 27-30 November in honor of Black Friday! Among over 90 participating vendors, you’ll find designer handbags, shoes, accessories and more from brands such as Eme- Ele, Letter&U and Molé Molé, as well as gourmet food stalls from the likes of Ma Petite Creperie, BorchCakes and El Rincón del Pirineo. Don’t worry if you can’t make it out this weekend, because the market will return for two weekends in Decmeber: 11-14 December and 18-21 December.

Calle General Pardiñas, 50

Plaza Mayor:

Image from Blog Es Madrid

One of the oldest and most well-known Christmas markets in the Spanish capital, we couldn’t forgo mentioning it. Wooden huts take over Madrid’s most prominent square for a month to sell Christmas decorations, live trees, costumes and the elaborate Spanish nativity scenes. Worth a stroll through the crowds, even if it’s just for a bit of contagious holiday buzz. 28 November – 31 December

Plaza Mayor

Plaza Jacinto Benavente:

Also known as the “Christmas Card Market” this mercadillo is best known for, what else, its elaborate Christmas cards, among other handicrafts. Traditional “casetas” are set up throughout the square to mimic a medieval town and there’s also a bar serving not-so-traditional, crowd-pleasing mojitos. 28 November – 6 January

Plaza Jacinto Benavente

Navidad en Oriente:

This “Feria Dulces de Navidad” sets up shop in front of the Royal Opera House and sells sweet Spanish delicacies. Turrón lovers rejoice! Right next to it is also an ice rink, which opens every holiday season with a view of the Royal Palace. 28 November – 6 January

Plaza de Oriente by Ardena González from a wanderer’s path blog

If you’re looking for unique gift ideas from Madrid, make sure to check out our post, Best Gifts from Madrid, and our Naked Madrid Events Page to find out about other markets and fun things going on in the city!

Gourmet Experience at El Corte Ingles in Callao

Spain’s major department store, El Corte Inglés, first opened in the 1940’s. Today, many of us Spaniards love El Corte Inglés as it sells virtually anything under the sun, from your laptop and underwear to your mattress and plane ticket. A little outdated indeed, one of the stores decided it was time for a facelift — a few months ago, the Corte Inglés in Callao converted the top floor into Gourmet Experience, a tantalizing food hall with stunning views of Madrid’s Gran Vía and the emblematic Shweppes sign. But why is it so special it? First off, we have a variety of food stalls serving anything you can think of — sushi, pizza, quesadillas, pinchos and hamburgers, etc. — all in the same space. You can also have your meal at each individual stall, or in the main dining area where the views will take your breath away. On the same floor, there’s also a supermarket specializing in international gourmet products, like sauces, jams and olive oil, just to name a few.

Here’s a look at all the food stalls you can find at this gourmet heaven:

1. HAMBURGUESA NOSTRA Hamburguesa Nostra is one of the most popular stalls. Trying to ask for a burger during the weekend can be a complicated task. And we’re not surprised. HN offers us a variety of more than 30 types of meat, as well as sauces and unique breads. Yet, surprisingly enough, it’s easy to order! You just have to choose the burger meat you want and customise it with your choice of bread sauce and other garnishes. Then wait for the call so you can pick it. You won’t regret it … we always end up returning.

Prices range from 9€ for a basic burger to 13€ for a gourmet burger. For 0.50€ and 1€ euro you can customize it.

STREET XSO Street XSO serves modern and contemporary food. Chicken marinated in sweet chilli, smoked razor clams in olive oil and grilled tataki butter fish are just some of the wonderful dishes that you can enjoy in this great stand.

LA MAQUINA If you’re in the mood for traditional Spanish cuisine, then go to La Maquina, where you can find delicious and pinchos. Tortilla de patatas, pincho de jamón, cheese, and delicious bocadillos. We love the food but we love the prices even more. What truly stands out about La Maquina is its simplicity and good quality food.

CENTRAL MEXICANA One of our favourites is always crowded and don’t get me wrong, I understand why. On the menu, we can find all types of delicious Mexican dishes, from traditional enchiladas to wonderful tacos. And let’s not forget about the generous salads and nachos topped with cheese and guacamole. My favorite dishes are the chicken taco Coyoacan and the nachos with guacamole. The prices are very reasonable. You can get two tacos for 6€.

TSE YANG DIMSUM CLUB If you love sushi and Japanese cuisine cuisine in general, then TYDC is for you!

AMORINO If you’ve got a sweet tooth, Amorino will be your parries. Here you can enjoy ice cream, sorbets, waffles and pancakes with an infinite variety of topppings. They also serve great drinks, like milk shakes and frappes. Now they also sell macaroons that are out of this world!

AL CUADRADO There can be no Gourmet space without a place for pizzas and the ones here are simply delicious. These are served “al corte” and “al taglio” as the Italians say, and the price depends on the weight. What we like the most about this pizza place is that they try to innovate, although always with a very Mediterranean touch.

HARINA Perfect for breakfast, lunch, dinner or an afternoon tea. Many Madrileños already know this space because it’s not the only Harina. We love how they mix the minimalist touch of their decoration with the more traditional cuisine. The breads and cakes are simply delicious. Our suggestion: “empanada de bonito” (tuna empanada) and a cup of coffee.

JUANILLO CLUB A 1950’s-style cocktail bar located in the heart of Madrid! Here you can enjoy traditional cocktails as the caipirinha, mojitos, bloody marries, cosmopolitans, etc., to the most avant-garde cocktails. In addition, you can accompany them with some delicious oysters. What else can you ask for?

ASADORES IMANOL Here we can find a piece of San Sebastian and its traditional “pintxos”. We’ve fallen in love with their simple and unpretentious menu. Our suggestions: For cold pintxos, go with the Iberian ham and boqueron en vinagres (anchovies in vinegar). For hot pintxos, go with the croquettes and solomillo (pork tenderloin). When it comes to tapas: We are passionate about the tortilla española (Spanish potato omelet) and huevos rotos con jamón (french fries topped with two fried eggs and ham).

Plus, the prices are more than reasonable: 2.35€ and 2.50€ for any of the pintxos. 4.90€ for desserts. The price on tapas ranges from 8 to 11 euros.

So, what do you think? Are you going to leave Madrid without having had a gourmet experience atop El Corte Inglés? Where: Corte Inglés Callao. 9th floor.

Metros: Callao, Sol and Gran Vía.

Tacos, tamales and tequila: the best Mexican joints in Madrid

If you had to eat just one type of cuisine for the rest of your life, what would you choose? For me, Mexican food wins hands down every time. I could happily munch on chilaquiles for breakfast, enchiladas for lunch, pozole for dinner and still have room for a few tacos al pastor or some juicy tamales…all washed down with several delicious micheladas of course. I spent a year working in Mexico after I finished university and it wasn’t nearly long enough to sample all the delicious treats on offer, although I did manage to squeeze in tequila ice cream, grasshoppers and mezcal with worm salt, amongst other things!

So where can you get your Mexican fix in Madrid? Avoid the expensive chain restaurants and the Tex-Mex joints, and instead try one of these gems:

Taquería Mi Ciudad (Calle Hileras 5 and Calle Fuentes 11 Sol/Ópera) The infamous Gringa at Taquería Mi Ciudad

As the name suggests, tacos are the star of the show here: pastor, cochinita pibil, tinga, carnitas…they’ve got them all, as well as the usual staples like guacamole, quesadillas and frijoles. My personal favourite is the Gringa, a heavenly combination of carne al pastor, cheese and pineapple sandwiched between two flour tortillas…it needs to be eaten to be believed! If you sit at the bar you can watch the taco man work his magic, although there are plenty of tables for larger groups. Alternatively, you could hop one street over to the original restaurant on Calle Fuentes, which has standing room for about 10.

La Malinche (Calle Torija 10 Santo Domingo) Image from www.facebook.com/lamalinche.madrid

This place is the real deal, a Spanish-Mexican husband and wife dream team. He concocts delicious micheladas and margaritas at the bar upstairs, whilst she rustles up delicious sopes, huaraches and all other manner of delights in the kitchen below. Even the tortillas are homemade. The portions are very generous so make sure you go with an empty belly! Great value for money.

Antigua Taquería (Calle Cabestreros La Latina/Tirso de Molina/Lavapiés and Calle Áncora 19 Palos de la Frontera) Antigua Taquería

An amazing hybrid of traditional bar de toda la vida and Mexican hipster joint. The menu here is limited – just tacos, nachos and quesadillas – but everything on it is absolutely divine. I have a particular weakness for their quesadillas and always end up ordering the huitlacoche one…it translates as corn smut which sounds grim, but don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. Heap some of their delicious salsas on top and you’re good to go…just watch out for the red one! Luckily they also make a mean margarita for you to wash it all down with.

Tepic (Calle Pelayo 4 Chueca) Image from www.facebook.com/restauranteTEPIC

I had my first ride in a pick-up truck, learned to dance to banda and tried ceviche for the first time in the Mexican state of Tepic, so I’ll always think of it fondly. Tepic in Chueca doesn’t disappoint either, with its varied menu of tacos, flautas, enchiladas and other tasty treats. They even have soups, salads and vegetarian options, just make sure you leave room for one of their delicious desserts! If you’re looking for a more upmarket meal in a swanky restaurant which manages to avoid all the usual Mexican clichés whilst still being thoroughly Mexican, this is your place.

For more on Tepic, check out our friends post here with mouth- watering photos. Hattori Hanzo, Japanese food straight-up. No sushi.

I rekindled my love for Japanese food when I went for dinner at Hattori Hanzo with friends on Tuesday night. Our group of seven had no reservation, yet the waiters fit us in at the bar and then moved us to a table just in time for our first round of dumplings. Located a few steps from Gran Vía, Hattori Hanzo is a Japanese izakaya, meaning a casual bar that acts as a gathering place for coworkers and friends. It’s similar to a Spanish tapas bar; food is served to accompany drinks, not the other way around. That’s why the ambience here is rather laid back.

Hattori Hanzo specializes in a variety of traditional Japanese dishes such as okonomiyaki, takoyaki, and grilled meat and fish skewers, offering a number of combination platters and sizes. Plus it’s vegetarian-friendly, affordable, and has a big space with a great seating arrangement.

In the front room, you can dine at the bar (note: no sushi!) or at a six-person table under a red canopy, where we sat. The red canopy sheds a fiery red hue over everything, so we apologize for the red-tinted food pics you’re about to see.

You can also sit in the back room at tables sunken into the floor. I can’t quite explain it so please have a look at the photos below. When it comes to food, you’ve got a ton of options. The menu is separated into three parts: the first includes starters such as Nira Gyoza delicious pork dumplings with a spicy sesame sauce.

The second part includes larger plates meant for sharing between two or three people, such as theOmu-yakisoba (Japenese yakisoba noodles in a thin and flavorful tortilla) and Dorayaki Shuriken(Japanese pancakes). Lastly, the third column offers tapas-sized skewers of Japanese delights such as chicken ginger meatballs and marinated eggplant and salmon. You can order these skewers individually (ranging in price from 2-5€). Or you can order them in platters: the 7 Samurai platter includes Hattori’s seven most popular skewers for €16.20 (which I ordered with James) and the 3 Imperial Treasures platter (which I’ll try next time) includes three Japanese delicacies such as Unayi Kabanaki (grilled eel) and Taro (tuna) for €18.90. For dessert, we got Kuro Goma Matcha Ice Cream (black sesame and matcha ice cream) and Matcha Ichigo Roll Cake (rolled pastry with matcha, strawberry and anko, meaning red bean paste).

So you’re probably wondering about the price. Each of us had a few drinks, split a starter and shared a main dish and dessert. The bill came out to 18€ per person. For the quality and the ambience, I’d say it was absolutely worth it.

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Address: c/ Mesoneros Romanos 15

Metro: Callao or Gran Vía

More Asian restaurants featured on Naked Madrid:

Ramen Kagura, Madrid’s (almost) perfect ramen bar Kintaro – Oy Vey Sumo – This Japanese restaurant’s name says it all Tuk Tuk – Asian-inspired street food Chuka Ramen Bar – Madrid’s hottest ramen restaurant Nippon 2 – top quality yet affordable sushi, finally! Soy Kitchen – a fusion of Asian flavors Karachai – A cozy and elegant Thai restaurant in Alonso Martínez

The Table By: A new gastronomic concept to bring restaurants from across (including chefs and utensils) to Madrid!

The Table: a new gastronomic concept

Over the next six months, six leading restaurants from across Spain will come to Madrid for one month at a time. Along with them, they’ll be bringing their very own dishes, cuisine, local products and chefs to offer a truly unique gastronomic experience in the heart of the Spanish capital.The Table calls itself a pop-up restaurant, although it’s much more; it is a new gastronomic adventure that is taking the idea of “pop-up” to a whole new level.

Image from: The Table By

The Team: Better

Better is the young and creative team behindThe Table. An unconventional agency that organizes pop up markets and events, Better’s projects have one thing in common: they are unique, creative and innovative. On this occasion, Better is creating The Table in collaboration with Hotel Urso and Alejandra Anson, Director of Elite Gourmet. Together they have brought a new concept to Madrid.

The Place: Hotel Urso

Image from: URSO Hotel & Spa Madrid

Located in the center of Madrid, Hotel Urso opened its doors in August and its building dates from 1915. Urso was a fine choice to host such an event, as it is one of the most beautiful hotels I have ever seen.

The Idea: Bring a whole restaurant to Madrid

The core idea behind The Table is essentially common — hotels invite star chefs to their kitchens all the time. However, Better has gone even further, as they thought: Why only bring a chef when you can bring the whole restaurant?

The Table invites restaurants to come to Madrid for a month to serve their dishes while using their own utensils and products, as well as promote their region’s cuisine. What’s more, the team at Better visits the original restaurant prior to the event to get inspiration from its surroundings and decorate the space at Hotel Urso accordingly. So it’s as if you were transported to a restaurant in Galicia, , Barcelona, ….

What’s on now: Abastos 2.0 from Galicia

For this first event, The Table is recreating Galicia. Until November 23rd, you can enjoy authentic dishes by two young Galician chefs, Marcos Cerqueiro and Iago Pazos, from Abastos 2.0, a restaurant that has three locations: Taberna, Galphón and O Loxe. The decor is also original, elegant and minimalist. For this first occasion, the team bought bottles, buckets, plates, etc., and pasted them to the wall to reflect different cultural traits of the region.

Abastos is located in the wonderful city ofSantiago de Compostela. Their kitchen is 100% Galician, and so is the wine. You’ll notice that the products they use are not only fresh but also completely authentic. Here in Madrid, at Hotel Urso, you’ll find yourself eating the same fish from the same fishmonger that the restaurant uses back home in Galicia, as they made sure to get it delivered to Madrid for The Table. This is a “recogedor de migas de pan” (a crumb duster), the original one that the restaurant uses in their galician restaurant.

Galicia’s cuisine is known for its “materia prima” (raw material) which is why the tasting menu focuses on just a few star ingredients from the region, such as octopus (pulpo), pan gallego (Galician bread), and marisco (seafood). The restaurant has prepared two typically Galician tasting menus for the event. The first menu consists of 9 dishes (45€) and the second, 12 dishes (60€). Wine is not included.

So, friends, if you want to enjoy a bit of different Spanish cuisine, do not miss out on The Table.

We will let you know about future restaurants, but we’ll give you a hint now: the next event is scheduled for December and will be Basque-inspired… Details:

Make a reservation at The Table

URSO Hotel & Spa

Location: Mejía Lequerica, 8

Metro: Chueca or Tribunal

Exercise opportunities in Madrid

This Saturday, I went to my first zumba class in Madrid. I was excited about my first taste of zumba in Madrid, but going the morning after Halloween was a bit of a blunder. For those who haven’t heard of it before, zumba is basically a mix of latino style dancing, which is especially great for those who lack much coordination and/or rhythm like me because the moves are repeated and straight-forward (and you can get away with the moves which you should never really show in public).

So with my back-combed hair, splodges of face paint, fake blood and “bruises” from my “Freaky Doll” costume from the night still partially visible, I put on my sunglasses and dragged my sorry hungover self to my first zumba class. This is what I looked like after the zumba class… ;)

When we arrived at the mercado on Calle de Santa Isabelle by San Antón metro we discovered that the building was covered in scaffolding, and looked fairly desolate. We were on the verge of giving up when we eventually followed some people into the building (so those who wish to try out the first zumba class on the list, persevere my friends, you will find the door eventually!)

To my relief it appeared that the entire class was suffering from the “Halloween Hangover”, even the instructor, which really helped the group to bond as we discussed where we had gone the night before. The class started promptly with some warm-up routines, followed by routines of varying intensities. A special mention to the “sunshine dance” which really makes you smile (until you catch a glimpse of yourself in the mirror!) There was a great mix of music from the likes of Enrique Iglesius, prompting salsa style movement and more hip hop and Bollywood music influences. You literally can’t wipe the smile off your face at times as you see yourself with arms and legs flailing all over the place, (well in my case at least!) The incredibly smiley instructor had so much energy and lead the class well, with lots of encouragement and occasional “whooping”! By the end of the class, everyone was sweaty but smiley and we paid our 5 euros (which is great value I think!) and left, promising that we would come again next week. I had almost forgotten about my Halloween hangover, until that is I gorged myself on some delicious Mexican food, after which point I decided it was about time I went home and had a nap.

After my zumba experience, which my friend Mita stumbled across on Lingo Bongo, I decided to investigate further and discovered a wealth of exercise opportunities, especially on lingobongo and Meet ups Madrid. Cheap zumba classes like this are among Madrid’s best kept secrets, especially for those who don’t wish to fork out their well-earned wages on gym fees. To save you some time, I’ve compiled a list of some of these weekly classes, activities and clubs to join, (but bear in mind there are a wealth of options available). It is a great way to meet people and even practice some Spanish, for those who are getting tired of doing intercambios over a beer and fancy trying something new.

If you are into running and you want to stay up-to-date with the latest running events in Madrid and beyond, please check out my blog: www.goguiri.com where you can also read my running diary.

Exercise opportunities: Zumba & Yoga

Zumba classes

What: Cheap zumba classes in the centre of Madrid with a very smiley English instructor.

When: Every week on Saturday 1pm and Wednesday 9pm,

Where: metro Anton Martín. Calle de Santa Isabelle (the big market building) don’t be deceived it is open, keep trying all the doors. Upstairs Sala 4 of Amor de Dios Flamenco School

Price: €5

Bootcamp España

What: A group which was formed in 2009, which combine a variety of outdoor exercises inspired by US marine an effective way to get into shape.

When: Madrid Rio (Monday, Tuesday & Thursday 8pm – 9pm) and Retiro (Monday, Tuesday and Thursday various times & Saturday 10:30 am –12 pm)

Where: Madrid Rio and Retiro Park

Price: First session for free (sign up online), then €52 for a month.

Check it out: Boot Camp España

Weekend yoga retreats

What: Regular weekend retreats organised by Yogamente including healthy food (all vegetarian and homemade), yoga sessions all in English. No need for previous yoga experience.

When: Weekend retreats, check Facebook for regular updates.

Where: In the beautiful countryside around Madrid. Price: Depends on retreat, but average 190 euros (includes accommodation, homemade food and all activities)

Check it out: email [email protected] for availability. Follow on Facebook for regular updates of new retreats: Yogamente Facebook

Hatha Yoga and Zumba classes

What: Two instructors from Colorado who have started up zumba and yoga classes. They offer affordable classes for all levels (seasoned and beginners).

When: Usually Saturday afternoons – check out Facebook for regular updates. Next zumba class: Date: Saturday, November 8th, 2.30 pm. Next yoga class: Novemberr 8th, 3.30 pm.

Where: El Horno C/ Esgrima, 11. It’s in studio 9 which is up the stairs when you first walk in, then enter the main doors and make a right and another right, go down towards the end of the hall and you are there!

Price: only 5€ (because everyone should be able to afford fitness, and it’s for an hour and a half!)

Check it out: Z & Y Fitness Madrid

Hiking

Intercambio hiking group

What: Group called Hiking Madrid that organises weekly hiking events for mountain lovers who wish to meet new people of all nationalities who have a mutual interest in hiking.

When: weekly events

Where: mountains in Madrid. Each event will give you information about where to meet and catch the bus from. Price: Depends on the expedition, it is often simply the cost of transport.

Check it out: Website Hiking Madrid or email [email protected] and you can sign up for regular newsletters. Follow on Facebook for regular updates and upcoming events: Facebook Hiking Madrid

One of the hikes organised by Hiking Madrid. Photo taken from their Facebook page. Spanish hiking group

What: Regular hikes organised by “senderismo entre semana” on meet up website. This group has great reviews and it is a good opportunity to meet more Spaniards.

When: Weekly hikes.

Where: Mountains around Madrid.

Price: Transport to mountains, dependent on hike.

Check it out: Senderismo entre semana

Join a sports team: Basketball and Football

Babelsket Madrid (beginner’s basketball)

What: Free basketball for beginners. Babelsket Madrid is a motley bunch of not very skilled basketball players who heartily welcome all those who want to join their nice-and- friendly games in a fun, relaxed atmosphere.

When: On Sundays at 11:30 am – 1:30 pm

Where: The court is in Calle Puerto Rico 54 (metro Colombia)

Price: It’s free!

Check it out: Add your name to the list at: Babelsket

More competitive basketball (and practice your Spanish too!)

What: Competitive basketball team in Madrid for those who have played before and would consider themselves good players. Join a friendly Spanish team that play in the Majadahonda league.

When: Training once a week on a Wednesday. Where: Majadahonda (you may need to catch the cercanias).

Price: Not specified.

Check it out: email: [email protected] and double check price and location.

Competitive Football teams

1. What: Fútbol Club Británico 1st team is looking to welcome new players to the club for this new season. You can train with a UEFA licensed coach and play against other teams. Home and away games so lots of opportunities to travel and see more of Spain too.

When: Get in touch for more details.

Where: Get in touch for more details.

Price: Get in touch for more details.

Check it out: website FCI Britanico or email [email protected] or whatsapp 609754169. Follow on twitter: @BritanicoFC or on Facebook: Facebook Fútbol Club Británico The Fútbol Club Británico team after 2-2 draw against visiting side Brent FC. Photo taken from their Facebook page.

2. What: International 5-a-side Football League has been connecting foreigners and locals in Madrid since 1988. So get in touch and sign up!

When: Get in touch for more details.

Where: Get in touch for more details.

Price: Get in touch for more details.

Check it out: website: IFL Madrid and Facebook: IFL Madrid

If you know of any more clubs, societies or groups that I forgot to mention, or if you are starting up your own classes or your team needs new members – please leave a comment!

Also, check out our post: Best Places to Break a Sweat in Madrid for more ideas!

Let’s visit the wine region, Ribera del Duero, from Madrid!

We all know that we owe a lot to the Romans- the feats of engineering, the inventions, the creation of basic law, the art. But in the case of Ribera del Duero, we owe them the discovery of the perfect place to grow the tempranillo grape, and the beginnings of the Ribera del Duero wine region.

Do you like full-bodied red wines, exploring ancient ruins and travelling through stunning landscapes? Then Ribera del Duero could be your next destination. To give you a head start, here are some useful tips from inside the wine industry, including where the region is, why it is famous, my favourite winery and how to get there from Madrid.

The scoop

Ribera del Duero is talked about as being one of the most prestigious wine regions in Spain. It is renowned for its full-bodied, elegant and complex red wines, which are of an extremely high quality (the region’s regulatory body only allows a certain amount of grapes to be produced per harvest- meaning that quality is in, and quantity is out).

In fact, in 2012 Ribera won a Wine Star award for being the best wine region in the entire world (which in the wine world is the equivalent to winning the Oscars).

Roman Gods and Medieval fortresses

Ribera del Duero became an official D.O. (Designation of Origin) region in 1982, but wine has been produced here for over 2,000 years. We know for sure that the Roman people of Ribera del Duero made wine, because they left behind mosaics of the Roman God of wine, Bacchus.

Bacchus was, amongst other things, the youthful, beautiful and (somewhat) androgynous God of harvest, wine and general all- round debauchery (he was actually the half mortal son of Zeus, so who can blame him). You can still see a 66 metre mosaic tile floor dedicated to him and his frivolous escapades at the Baños de Valdearados, a small pueblo right in the centre of Ribera del Duero. The Ancient Romans believed that wine was a ´daily necessity´ and produced wine in Ribera del Duero for everyone in society- men, women, slaves, aristocrats and peasants

In fact, Ribera del Duero gets its entire name from the Romans and their love of wine; they were also so thankful for the blessing of the river on their vineyards, that they personified the river as Durius, a River God (who, we can only assume, was working in cahoots with Bacchus).

Ribera del Duero continued to make wine long after the Romans left- all throughout the Visigoth, Muslim, Christian and medieval eras, right up until today. This means that Ribera del Duero not only has beautiful vineyard landscapes shaped by thousands of years of wine making, but also a winemaking tradition as old as the Coliseum.

If you are interested in medieval history or have a penchant for fairy-tale architecture, Ribera del Duero also has an incredible collection of Middle Age castles. On my last trip, I visited the official ´National Monument´ of the castle of Peñafiel, which is located where all good castles are- on top of a hill.

The castle of Peñafiel

Geography

Ribera del Duero is a long and narrow wine region shaped to follow the path of the Duero river. Ribera del Duero is effectively an extended area of vineyard river bank, which is why the word ´Ribera´ (river bank) is used in its name. The Ribera del Duero the wine region includes parts of four regional territories– covering the south of Burgos, extending west into Valladolid and encompassing sections of Segovia in the south and Soria to the east.

There are 4 main municipalities: Peñafiel, Roa, Aranda del Duero and San Esteban de Gormaz. These are surrounded by rural areas of vineyards and wineries, churches, castles and beautiful valleys.

My favourite winery

There are almost 300 wineries spread over the river banks of Ribera del Duero, a combination of hundred-year-old traditional family wineries and modern corporate giants, but for me, the winery Pago de Carraovejas is a real diamond- a shining example of how to keep Ribera del Duero´s wine traditions alive, but not be afraid of modern innovation.

Back in the 1970´s, a curious young sommelier José María Ruíz had a dream that he would one day own his own restaurant, where he would serve Segovia´s most traditional dish, ´cochinillo´ (roast baby piglet), which would be paired with his own Ribera wine. Years later, and just 3km outside Peñafiel, Ruíz´s impressive winery is in the perfect location in a sunny valley, protected by the hills from the North Wind and close enough to the river.

The vineyards of Pago de Carraovejas in its special valley this summer 2014, with views of Peñafiel castle in the distance

On my last trip to Ribera, I took part in the unveiling of Pago de Carraovejas´ new wine tasting technique: the peeling and tasting of the skin, pulp and seeds of the grape before tasting the wines. This is a prime example of Carraovejas´ innovative approach to wine and ability to think outside of the box, as is their research with Universities to create their own natural yeasts and bacteria specific to the land. Pago de Carraovejas in winter, photograph taken by my colleague and wine expert Raul Buendía. As the seasons change, so do the landscapes- with so many vineyards, each season brings unique stunning views

If you tour their winery, not only will you taste their fantastic red wines throughout the tour in different winemaking rooms (a refreshing take on the traditional end-of- tour wine tasting), but you will also get to enjoy 3 delicious tapas dishes (including ´cochinillo´) that have been carefully elaborated in Ruiz´s dream restaurant to pair with the wines. One of the delicious tapas served in the barrel room on my last visit- a tuna, sautéed pepper and vegetable stack, with edible flower

If you have a food allergy, Pago de Carraovejas are up to the job. They can adapt their tasting menu to gluten free and lactose free diets if you let them know in advance- and they will even serve gluten free bread. You might also want to let them know if you don´t want to eat ´cochinillo´ (baby piglet fed only milk and slaughtered at 15-20 days old), if you are a vegetarian, vegan or have certain meat eating beliefs.

Which wineries?

To see a list of all of the wineries registered in the region, go to the official Ribera del Duero D.O. website.

If this seems too overwhelming and you aren´t sure which winery to pick, or how to organise numerous visits that fit together, you could organise a wine tour of Ribera del Duero from Madrid. You could even visit a winery that produces one of your favourite wines!

How to get there

Ribera del Duero has so many places to visit that you could leave Madrid in a number of different directions, depending on where you are headed. Here are two routes to the wine towns Peñafiel and Aranda de Duero.

By car: I would recommend travelling to Ribera del Duero by car so that you can see Ribera´s landscapes as you travel up from Madrid. This is all part of seeing Ribera- the land, the vineyards, castles and landscapes have all been shaped by wine making. You will also have the freedom to move about the region once you are there- you could stay in a wine town and drive to rural wineries and castles during the day, returning to eat delicious local food in the town at night.

You can see which companies rent cars in Madrid by going to our previous Travelling by car in Madrid: renting cars, car sharing or carpooling article.

Route: Madrid- Peñafiel Duration: 2 hours approx. Tip: Combine this route with a stop at the beautiful UNESCO city of Segovia on the way

Route: Madrid- Aranda de Duero Duration: 1 hour 45 approx. Tip: You can find recommended Aranda de Duero scenic driving routes for once you have arrived in the area, on the official Aranda y Ribera guide website. Useful for a weekend trip.

By bus: It is possible to travel to a few of the wine towns by coach from Madrid. This would be a good option if you would just like to visit the main wine towns.

Route: Madrid- Peñafiel Depart from: Moncloa Duration: 3 hours approx. Price: 17,00 approx. single Company: The official Peñafiel website cites travelling with La Sepulvedana

Route: Madrid- Aranda de Duero Depart from: Avenida de America Duration: 2 hours Price: 12,00€ approx. single (24,00€ approx. return) Company: Alsa

Wine word for your trip

El sarmiento– the little young, green vine shoot

Running in Madrid: November 2014

If the word ‘running’ ‘exercise’ or the idea of general movement makes you want to crawl under a rock, it’s probably best you look away now. But before you do… I want to make it clear that I am no running expert, I was always picked last for sport’s teams (sob), so why not hear me out.. Beautiful photography taken by Lauren Haynes on her run along Madrid Rio.

I have recently discovered the world of running (scorn all you like) but I can honestly say, without shame, that I am hooked. I always used to convince myself that I wasn’t a runner, and that I did my daily exercise running up and down the metro every day, barging and weaving my way past the incessantly slow Spaniards who did a great job of ignoring my tomato face.

One day, however, my perspective changed. I was walking past Lots of Colours (a great shop by the way on Calle Fuencarral that is actually affordable) and I saw some running shoes on offer in the window for 29 euros (this explains why they absolutely destroyed my feet, but that’s another story). They were taunting me, testing me. I had to buy them to make them shut up!

So anyway, I bought the shoes. Next step: use them. It’s harder than it seems, trust me. On a whim one day, I went out for my first clumsy run, feeling silly and self-conscious, but after at least 15 minutes I found myself running alongside Templo de Debod, near Plaza de España (for those of you who have yet to visit it, at night time it is lit up in a particularly majestic way), and suddenly I almost forgot that I was doing exercise and was simply enjoying the view. Madrid is a great place to run, once you have managed to escape the main streets, and there is the added benefit that you are unlikely to bump into anyone you know.

If I still have your attention so far, you might want to consider some of the great running opportunities there are in Madrid, because believe it or not there are races almost every weekend! The atmosphere is always alive and buzzing, even at 9.30 on a Sunday morning, and if you sign up you get a free t shirt and some food at the end the race (there I knew I could convince you). Getting ready to start, check out the lycra ;) Taken at X Carrera Popular Distrito de Retiro, 26th October. So here is what November in Madrid has in store for you:

1. 4a Carrera Popular, Corre por el Niño:

Distance: 4 and 10 kilometres (A little bizarre, but a great one to get started!)

When: Sunday 9th November, 9:30 am

Where: Retiro Park

Cost: 10€ (which goes to El Hospital Infantil Universitario Niño Jesús)

Website

2. XXXI Medio Maratón de Villaverde:

Distance: 21.097 kilometres (a half marathon)

When: Sunday 16th November, 9:30 am

Where: Metro Ciudad de Los Ángeles, line 3.

Exit: C/Unanimidad (Auditorio El Espinillo)

Cost: 12.60€

Website

3. Derbi de Las Africiones:

Distance: 10 kilometres

When: Sunday 16th November, 9:00 am

Where: Santiago Bernabéu Stadium, line 10

Cost: 12€

Website 4. IV Carrera de los Emprendedores:

Distance: 5 & 10 kilometres

When: Sunday 23rd November, 9:00 am

Where: Retiro Park

Cost: 8€ (possibility of discount if you sign up before 26th October)

Website

5. XXXV Trofeo Jose Cano:

Distance: It varies from 2-10 kilometres

When: Sunday 23rd November, 9:00 am

Where: The nearest metro stops are: Las Musas, San Blas or Alsacia

Cost: free for the first 300 who sign up otherwise 16€

Website

So I wanted to give a little summary of how I got into running, just to prove to readers that I am no athlete, and it can be a great way to keep fit (and for free!) If you know of any more running activities please feel free to share them! After the X Carrera Popular Distrito de Retiro, 10 kilometre – happy running! If you are really into running and you want to stay up-to-date with the latest running events in Madrid and beyond, please check out my blog: www.goguiri.com where you can also read my running diary.

Madrid’s action-packed English-language comedy scene, interview with Josh and Rusty

Thanks to a whirlwind of stand-up comedy shows, improv groups and international festivals, you can enjoy live comedy in English in Madrid every week! This year alone, the city hosted an international comedy competition and received a visit from the world-famous stand-up comedian, Eddie Izzard, himself.

So, how do I find out about shows and get up on stage?

You can check out our calendar for upcoming events, but first, get to know the city’s three main English-language comedy groups:

1. Ace Comedy Factory was founded by Joshua Saxon (from London) and Rusty Birdwell (from Tennessee) last March with monthly open mic comedy showdowns atTriskel Tavern in Malasaña. They’ve also launched an event called “Comedy Super Team, Go!” which Josh calls the “best of”, as they perform their most polished sets and feature comedians such as Archie Bezos and Kirk Bonacci.

Rusty on stage at Comedy Super Team, Go! at Ancora

2. Freshly Comedy prides itself on being Madrid’s first English-language comedy group. It has two different shows: “Freshly Squeezed” (45 min stand-up/45 min improv) and “Freshly Baked” (90 min pure improv). At all of these events, expect lots of drinks, jokes and games, plus audience participation… Freshly Comedy — doing what could only be improv — atBeer Station

3. MAD Improv is an English improv group that meets every Saturday afternoon. The first three weekends of the month are free, while the last is a 4-hour masterclass given by Benjamin Nathan-Serio, costing €25. Anyone can join; you don’t have to be a native speaker or have any previous experience. In fact, one Spanish woman joined because she had to do public speaking in English at work. (check out their meetup group) improv workshops in English near Puerta de Toledo on Saturdays from 4:30-7:30pm

Inside scoop on Madrid’s English-language comedy scene

To give you a roadmap, I sat down with Josh and Rusty, the guys who foundedAce Comedy Factory and collaborate with Freshly Comedy. Rusty is one of the leaders of MAD improv and Josh organized this year’s Festival Internacional de la Comedia (FIC), which featured an outstanding line-up including Reginald D. Hunter, one of the UK’s best known comedians whose 200-seat show sold out. The festival also included the Funniest FICer competition, Spain’s premiere English-language comedy competition held in Madrid and Barcelona, plus a free inaugural event in Retiro — The Big Comedy Picnic — in which eighty people set up picnics on the grass. seen at The Big Comedy Picnic in Retiro

First impressions

When I first met Rusty, I asked him how he got his name. His answer: “Well, my parents just couldn’t decide. My father wanted to call me Chainsaw and my mother, Butterfly!” It turned out this was an “elevated truth”, a tactic both Rusty and Josh use in their sets. doing improv I assume…

Oh, and Josh likes to be called Batman if possible. He likes bats. the batman of comedy indeed

Sitting down with Rusty and Batman for coffee at La Ciudad Invisible felt like a behind-the-scenes glimpse into their free-style warm-up; the shenanigans that go on when they hang out together often lead them to come up with their best lines.

What’s the crowd like?

They get a lot of regulars and people from all over the world. One of the regular comedy-goers, Amy Flippant, from the UK, said: “I remember thinking it was cool to see so many nationalities and accents [on stage] in one event. There were Brits, Americanas, Canadians, and Spaniards, so it’s very welcoming.” She also witnessed all sorts of comedy, from loud and slapstick to very very surreal (especially at the picnic), and lots of first-time performers, too. Why do you think Madrid has such a widely popular comedy scene in English?

Both Josh and Rusty agreed that the amount of stuff going on is quite unexpected. It shows the city’s welcoming nature as well as the power of Madrid’s expat community to start new things. Unlike cities like New York and London, there’s little competition for English comedy in Madrid; it’s a niche market here. What started out with a few English-language comedy nights a month has since turned into an action-packed micro- culture of stand-up and improv groups that are at it all year long. Not to mention the many English-language theater groups. That’s a whole other story…

How did you get into comedy?

Both are pretty new to comedy. For Josh, who has a background in Journalism, it was always on his bucket list. On a whim, he participated in the FICer Competition last year and has been hooked ever since. Rusty calls Josh “super multi-talented,” as he’s not only a comedian and host, but also handles the web, organization and PR for many events. Rusty grew up doing theater and improv, and some film acting, although he stopped when he went into writing. While living in Madrid, he got the urge to get back into it and began organizingAce Comedy Factory with Josh last February.

Do you get nervous?

“Yeah, of course,” said Josh. He’s had a few tense moments on stage, but it’s part of the game. “I compare it to getting punched in the face. Once it’s happened, you can stand up for yourself.” Rusty followed with a quote he had recently heard: “The master has failed more times than the beginner has ever tried.” Their advice for anyone who wants to start something new in Madrid

“Go for it!”

Images from Ace Comedy Factory, MAD Improv, Freshly Comedy and Madrid International Comedy Festival

The 3 Best Wine Shops in Madrid

All throughout Spanish history, farmers, monks and locals have produced wine and drunk it at their family tables, blissfully unaware that their daily vino was the nectar of the rich and privileged in faraway countries.Wine has always been available here, and it has always been good.

If you are not from Madrid, it can be hard to buy wine like a Spaniard. We tend to look for an imported bottle and an expensive label – but not anymore.

Forget your old assumptions about quality and price, because in Madrid, fantastic wine is produced just around the corner. On the edges of the city border, incredible Madrid wineries with vast vineyards are producing fantastic wines that have been enjoyed here locally for centuries. You have great wines at good prices right at your fingertips, and are in the perfect place to start a Spanish wine journey. Working at a wine company, I have learnt a few things about where the Spanish buy their wine in Madrid. Drop your post- work trip to the supermarket and try these 3 best places to buy wine in Madrid– whether you are looking to pick up a bottle for a friend´s dinner, or spend as long as you like on a Saturday afternoon browsing and tasting the wines that they have on offer.

Lavinia

Lavinia is a chic and modern wonderland of wine situated in the barrio of Salamanca. On the same street as Chanel, Dolce Gabbana and Louis Vuitton, its location only adds to its impeccable service, friendly staff and welcoming atmosphere. There is a sense that things are happening here, and they are: with a top restaurant and regular tasting events and courses (this month, special cheese and wine pairing), Lavinia is a hub of specialised wine activity. They even have little decanting machines to taste wine in the shop on your own- the perfect way to test your palate style if you not sure what you like yet. Restaurant on top floor, with decanting machines for wine tasting below Wines organised by wine region (Denominación de Origen- D.O.) Lavinia´s exclusive wines and restaurant in the background on the top floor

If you are looking for your new favourite bottle, or a gift, and feel a bit lost, Lavinia is the best place to go. Just take in the label of your current favourite wine, e.g. an oaked smoky red, along with a price range, and they will show something new to try. If you are looking for a gift, you could even take in the label of a friend´s favourite wine and wrap up something that they have never tried before. Without a doubt, the staff of Lavinia know their stuff- just check out their website to see how many years each sommelier has totalled working in the wine industry. Special themes and promotions encouraging you try something new Beautiful wine store designs The D.O. of Rioja has launched a gastronomic competition this autumn in which the best gastro bars across Spain compete for the best tapa. Lavinia´s entry: Lasaña de morcilla

Address: Calle Jose Ortega y Gasset, 16

Bodega Santa Cecilia

Santa Cecilia is, in so many words, a wine supermarket. It has a mini supermarket check-out counter, push entry barriers, aisles of beautiful shining bottles, wine gifts and books. However, Santa Cecilia also has a somewhat hidden secret weapon: a selection of traditional Spanish foods. Originally founded in 1922 as a traditional Madrileño food shop, Santa Cecilia has stayed true to its roots and today still offers a selection of delicious gourmet cheeses, hams, aperitivo snacks and store cupboard patés to add to the wine in your shopping basket.

Following the theme of food, Santa Cecilia also has a mini cafetería style bar with high stools that serves tapas to try with the wine while you browse. This makes a visit to this shop with a friend a potential afternoon of food and wine tasting. They also have a serve yourself ´zona de catas´ wine tasting bar, with bottles open and ready to try if you need some inspiration, or are just figuring out what you like. Wine tasting area with the tapas bar in the background

Santa Cecilia also offers a wide selection of liquors, juices, spirits and mixers, as well as tasting workshops and courses- this month Scottish whisky tasting and cocktail making.

Address: Blasco de Garay 74, Madrid

Enoteca Barolo

Walking down the glass walled stairs into Enoteca Barolo´s underground wine selection is like submerging into your own private collection. The wines have been lovingly organised amongst modern box-like compartments and illuminated by simple lighting, as if the room were an exhibition of a life´s work. In fact, having lived for several years abroad in Italy, its owners returned to Spain with a passion for providing the city with an extensive selection of both Spanish and worldwide wines. This makes Barolo probably the best selection of wines in Madrid: a special selection put together by the owners´ personal recommendations.

Each wine bottle has its own little lovingly added paper price tag

If you already know a little about wine, the staff of Enoteca Barolo can help you out with suggestions for new wines to try, and you can learn more from their regular wine tasting courses. This month alone they have over 8 tasting courses, ranging from almost extinct grape wine and cheese pairing, to a progressive Italian wine tasting course.

You don´t have to be looking for an expensive bottle to visit to Enoteca Barolo either- their cheapest wine sells for 2,30 € (which, non-incidentally, is produced… in Madrid).

Address: Principe de Vergara 211, Madrid

Extra information:

If you would like to find out more about the wine region of Madrid and its local wines, just go to the official Designation of Origin (DO) Madridpage, at: www.vinosdemadrid.es/en