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Contents

List of Maps vi

What’s New in Costa Rica 1

1 The Best of Costa Rica 4 1 The Best of Natural Costa Rica . . . . .4 8 The Best Moderately 2 The Best Beaches ...... 5 Priced Hotels ...... 15 3 The Best Adventures ...... 9 9 The Best Ecolodges & Wilderness Resorts ...... 16 4 The Best Day Hikes & Nature Walks ...... 10 10 The Best Bed-and-Breakfasts & Small Inns ...... 17 5 The Best Bird-Watching ...... 12 11 The Best Restaurants ...... 18 6 The Best Destinations for Families ...... 13 12 The Best Views ...... 19 7 The Best Luxury Hotels 13 The Best After-Dark Fun ...... 20 & Resorts ...... 14 14 The Best Websites About Costa Rica ...... 21

2 Planning Your Trip to Costa Rica 22

1 The Regions in Brief ...... 22 10 Getting There ...... 42 2 Visitor Information ...... 24 What Travel Agents 3 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . .24 Don’t Tell You ...... 44 4 Money ...... 26 11 Package Deals for the Independent Traveler ...... 46 The Colón, the U.S. Dollar, the Euro & the British Pound . . . . .27 12 Getting Around ...... 47 5 When to Go ...... 29 Car-Rental Tips ...... 49 Costa Rica Calendar of Events . . . .31 13 Spanish-Language Programs ...... 51 6 Health & Insurance ...... 32 14 Tips on Accommodations ...... 53 7 Specialized Travel Resources ...... 36 15 Tips on Dining ...... 54 8 COPYRIGHTEDPlanning Your Trip Online ...... 38 16 MATERIALTips on Shopping ...... 55 9 The 21st-Century Traveler ...... 39 17 Recommended Reading ...... 56 Online Traveler’s Toolbox ...... 41 Fast Facts: Costa Rica ...... 57

3 Suggested Costa Rica Itineraries 64 1 Costa Rica in 1 Week ...... 64 4 A High-Octane Week 2 Costa Rica in 2 Weeks ...... 66 of Adventures ...... 69 3 Costa Rica for Families ...... 68 5 San José in 3 Days ...... 71 02_587943_ftoc.qxd 7/15/05 5:25 PM Page iv

iv CONTENTS

4 The Active Vacation Planner 73 1 Organized Adventure Trips ...... 73 Monkey Business ...... 90 2 Activities A to Z ...... 75 4 Tips on Health, Safety Where to See the Resplendent & Etiquette in the Wilderness . . . . .91 Quetzal ...... 77 5 Ecologically Oriented In Search of Turtles ...... 85 Volunteer & Study Programs ...... 92 3 Costa Rica’s Top National Parks & Bioreserves ...... 86

5 San José 94 1 Orientation ...... 95 5 What to See & Do ...... 126 “I Know There’s Got to 6 Outdoor Activities Be a Number Here & Spectator Sports ...... 131 Somewhere. . . .”: The Arcane 7 Shopping ...... 133 Art of Finding an Address Joe to Go ...... 134 in San José ...... 97 8 San José After Dark ...... 137 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . .100 2 Getting Around ...... 101 9 Side Trips from San José ...... 142 Fast Facts: San José ...... 103 Holy Smoke! Choosing the Volcano Trip That’s 3 Where to Stay ...... 106 Right for You ...... 146 4 Where to Dine ...... 118 Only in the Central Valley: Dining under the Stars on a Mountain’s Edge ...... 122

6 Guanacaste & the Nicoya Peninsula: The Gold Coast 152 1 Liberia ...... 154 7 Playa Junquillal ...... 190 2 La Cruz ...... 160 8 Playa Nosara ...... 192 3 Playa Hermosa, Playa 9 Playa Sámara ...... 197 Panamá & Papagayo ...... 163 10 Playa Tambor ...... 201 4 Playa del Coco & Playa Ocotal . . .169 11 Playa Montezuma ...... 204 5 Playas Flamingo, Potrero, 12 Malpaís/Santa Teresa ...... 210 Brasilito & Conchal ...... 173 6 Playa Tamarindo & Playa Grande ...... 179 02_587943_ftoc.qxd 7/15/05 5:25 PM Page v

CONTENTS v The Northern Zone: Mountain Lakes, 7 Cloud Forests & a Volcano 215 1 Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí ...... 215 3 Along the Shores of Lake Arenal . . .236 2 Arenal Volcano & La Fortuna . . . . .222 4 Monteverde ...... 240 Boats, Horses & Taxis ...... 224 Taking a Soothing Soak in Hot Springs ...... 226 The Central Pacific Coast: Where the 8 Mountains Meet the Sea 255 1 Puntarenas ...... 255 4 Dominical ...... 291 Diving Trips to Isla del Coco 5 San Isidro de El General: (Cocos Island) ...... 259 A Base for Exploring 2 Playa de Jacó ...... 261 Chirripó National Park ...... 298 3 Manuel Antonio National Park ...... 273

9 The Southern Zone 305 1 Drake Bay ...... 305 3 Golfito: Gateway to the Those Mysterious Golfo Dulce ...... 321 Stone Spheres ...... 309 4 Playa Zancudo ...... 327 2 Puerto Jiménez: Gateway 5 Playa Pavones: to Corcovado National Park ...... 313 A Surfer’s Mecca ...... 330

10 The Caribbean Coast 333 1 Barra del Colorado ...... 334 4 Cahuita ...... 347 2 Tortuguero National Park ...... 337 5 Puerto Viejo ...... 354 3 Limón: Gateway to Tortuguero National Park & Southern Coastal Beaches ...... 344

Appendix A: Costa Rica in Depth 366

1 The Natural Environment ...... 366 4 Gallo Pinto, Ceviche & Frescos: 2 Costa Rica Today ...... 368 Costa Rican Food & Drink ...... 372 3 History 101 ...... 369 02_587943_ftoc.qxd 7/15/05 5:25 PM Page vi

vi CONTENTS Appendix B: Glossary of Spanish Terms & Phrases 375 1 Basic Words & Phrases ...... 375 3 Menu Terms ...... 377 2 Some Typical Tico Words & Phrases ...... 376

Appendix C: Costa Rican Wildlife 379 with assistance from E. Z. Weaver

1 Fauna ...... 379 2 Flora ...... 394

Index 398

List of Maps

The Best of Costa Rica 6 Guanacaste & the Nicoya Costa Rica in 1 Week 65 Peninsula 153 Costa Rica in 2 Weeks 67 Tamarindo 181 Costa Rica for Families 69 The Northern Zone 217 A High-Octane Week Monteverde 241 of Adventures 70 The Central Pacific Coast 257 San José in 3 Days 72 Manuel Antonio 275 San José 98 The Southern Zone 307 The Central Valley 145 The Caribbean Coast 335