www.wool.com
PROFIT FROM WOOL INNOVATION
ISSUE 56 SEPTEMBER 2013
2 UPFRONT September 2013 BEYOND THE BALE
CONTENTS BEYOND THE BALE NOW INTERACTIVE
OFF-FARM he online edition of the Beyond the Bale magazine is now interactive, providing 04 International Woolmark Prize Treaders with access to even more AWI digital content:
06 Alexander Wang promotes Merino Pop-up videos Pop-up image galleries 07 The Sartorialist on social media Hyperlinks to other digital content 08 Cool Wool wins at Lord's Search and print features 10 Merino wool in Vogue Download a PDF of the magazine 12 Merino wool in GQ Share pages via email, Facebook, Twitter and more. 13 Wool revs up! Previous editions back to December 2006 are also available from the site. 14 The Wool Lab: Seasonal trend guide To access the interactive edition of the magazine go to: 15 Nurturing with nature http://beyondthebale.wool.com 16 Merino for the slopes and city To receive an email notification when a new edition is available, subscribe to the quarterly Beyond the Bale e-newsletter at www.wool.com/subscribe 17 Wool for sportswear The hard copy of the magazine will still be produced and distributed as usual. 18 Promoting wool for interior textiles 19 Wool4Skool winners crowned 20 Compass points to wool 21 Turkish supply chain 22 Bush heritage inspires new label 23 Collette Dinnigan promotes wool
ON-FARM 24 Young Farming Champions 26 AWI shearing initiatives Buttons on the pages allow readers to view Pop-up videos 30 National Merino Challenge additional digital functionality. 32 Lifetime Ewe Management 34 MERINOSELECT 36 EverGraze regional packages 40 Discover Ag career search 42 Managing climate variability 44 Community baiting brings calm 45 World Merino Conference 46 New AWI website for growers
47 Readers' photos Pop-up image galleries Search and print features
Executive Editor: Richard Smith, by law, we exclude all conditions, [email protected], warranties, guarantees, terms and AWI Marketing and Communications. obligations expressed, implied or imposed by law or otherwise relating AWI, Level 30, 580 George St, Sydney to the information contained in this NSW 2000 Find Woolmark on Facebook at material or your use of it and will have AWI, GPO Box 4177, Sydney NSW 2001 www.facebook.com/woolmark no liability to you, however arising and P 02 8295 3100 F 02 8295 4100 under any cause of action or theory E [email protected] W www.wool.com of liability, in respect of any loss or Beyond the Bale is published by Australian Wool Innovation Limited (AWI), a AWI Helpline, 1800 070 099 damage (including indirect, special or company funded by Australian woolgrowers and the Australian Government. Subscription: Beyond the Bale is consequential loss or damage, loss of available free. To subscribe contact AWI profit or loss of business opportunity), AWI’s goal is to help increase the demand for wool by actively selling Merino wool P 02 8295 3100 E [email protected] arising out of or in connection with this material or your use of it. and its attributes through investments in marketing, innovation and R&D – from Copyright: Material in Beyond the farm to fashion and interiors. Bale is copyright. Reproduction of the Advertising sales: Max Hyde, Hyde material is encouraged. However prior Media Pty Ltd permission must be obtained from the P 03 5792 1314 F 03 5792 1359 AWI INVESTMENT STRATEGIES Executive Editor. E [email protected] Disclaimer: Whilst Australian Wool Advertising is subject to terms and Innovation Limited and its employees, conditions published on the ratecard, 1. ON-FARM R&D 3. MARKETING officers and contractors and any which is available from Hyde Media. contributor to this material (“us” or ISSN: 1447-9680 2. OFF-FARM R&D 4. GLOBAL BUSINESS SERVICES “we”) have used reasonable efforts to A Merino wool pullover ensure that the information contained Front cover: designed by Sonia Rykiel which is in this material is correct and current showcased on the cover of a Vogue at the time of its publication, it is Paris feature as part of AWI’s Merino your responsibility to confirm its Wool. No Finer FeelingTM fibre accuracy, reliability, suitability, currency View the interactive online edition of Beyond the Bale, with pop-up advocacy campaign – see page 10. and completeness for use for your videos and image galleries, at http://beyondthebale.wool.com purposes. To the extent permitted September 2013 UPFRONT 3 BEYOND THE BALE Getting on with business
e are continuing with initiatives to other introductory workshops, and 1370 high stores for consumers to purchase. Items Whelp increase the demand for wool school students received an introduction to from the 2012/13 International Woolmark through investments in marketing and R&D wool harvesting. Prize winning collection of Christian Wijnants – from farm to fashion. I would like to inform are now available in the Sydney city store of you of some recent activities in which the AWI state networks: AWI continues to invest David Jones. organisation has been involved. and grow its state based extension networks which have increased their membership International Wool Textile Organisation AWI three year Strategic Plan: Our Strategic base over the past 12 months to 8100. (IWTO): The environmental credentials Plan for the three financial years 2013/14 Strong partnerships with state departments, of wool and the unique properties of to 2015/16 was released on 1 July and is private providers and woolgrowers have wool that set it apart from other fibres in available on the AWI website at www.wool. secured ongoing funds for Leading Sheep the marketplace were at the forefront of com. We consulted widely with woolgrowers (Qld), Sheep Connect NSW, BESTWOOL/ discussions at this year’s IWTO Congress and their representatives to ensure that BESTLAMB (Vic), Sheep Connect Tasmania, held in June. The content of many of industry views are incorporated into the Sheep Connect South Australia, The the presentations on the first days of plan. Through AWI’s extensive Planning Sheep’s Back (WA) and Bestprac (pastoral) the Congress echoed this theme, and and Consultation Cycle, we will continue to networks. Call the AWI Helpline on 1800 070 Australia and AWI in particular were ensure that woolgrower levies are directed 099 if you want to get involved with a group heavily represented. On the last day of the to projects that deliver the greatest value to in your area. Congress there was an AWI-sponsored woolgrowers. A summary of the Strategic session titled “From Farm to Fashion – The Plan was posted to recipients of Beyond the EverGraze regional packages: The results Wool Supply Chain and the Consumer” Bale along with this edition. and recommendations from the EverGraze led by myself and a panel of leading research program, carried out across the high industrialists from Italy's fashion industry Statutory Funding Agreement (SFA): rainfall zone of southern Australia between including Nino Cerruti, Paolo Zegna, Pier Through a consultation process with the 2004 and 2013, are now available on a new Luigi Loro Piana and Franca Sozzani. Federal Government we have renegotiated EverGraze website (www.evergraze.com. a new SFA between the Commonwealth au). The results have been presented as Annual General Meeting (AGM): The of Australia and AWI. At the end of June, regionally relevant information packages to AWI 2013 AGM will be held on Friday 22 Minister Ludwig signed the SFA, effective help producers in particular regions manage November at the Grace Hotel in Sydney. from 1 July for three years. their pasture and livestock systems. The Formal notice and meeting papers will be information quantifies the productivity, sent to AWI shareholders in October. AWI E-communications: In our endeavour to economic, environmental, risk and lifestyle shareholders who are unable to attend communicate better with our shareholders, impacts of implementing changes on farm. the AGM in person will be able to view the AWI has launched a totally revamped AGM proceedings via webcast. Further Wool.com website with information and Merino Wool. No Finer FeelingTM: In details are available on the AWI website at tools to help woolgrowers increase their the lead-up to the northern hemisphere www.wool.com/agm on-farm profitability, and inform them of autumn/winter retail season we have where AWI is investing their wool levies. intensified our efforts with the Merino Stuart McCullough Wool.com complements AWI’s other two Wool. No Finer FeelingTM fibre advocacy Chief Executive Officer, main websites: the Woolmark.com website campaign that is informing a new Australian Wool Innovation for trade and designer audiences, and the generation of consumers about the consumer-focused Merino.com website. natural attributes and benefits of Merino AWI produces several free e-newsletters wool. This year, the campaign involved to which woolgrowers can subscribe and AWI strengthening its partnerships receive by email. Visit www.wool.com/ with well-known designers, brands and subscribe for details. fashion media. Brand endorsements of the campaign provide real penetration in Shearer and wool hander training: Adequate fashion markets. numbers of highly skilled professional shearers and wool handlers are key to the International Woolmark Prize: The regional profitability of the Australian wool industry. In finalists have been announced for the the past year, AWI investment has increased 2013/14 International Woolmark Prize global the number of shearers and wool handlers final, to be held in Milan next February. trained across Australia. 1571 shearers and The interest in this award from the fashion 983 wool handlers were trained directly communities and media globally continues through the AWI shearer and wool handler to be phenomenal. It is helping put wool training program in 2012/13. An additional back on the agendas of fashion designers 786 participants attended crutching and across the world, and consequently into retail 4 OFF-FARM September 2013 BEYOND THE BALE
INTERNATIONAL WOOLMARK PRIZE
Australia judging panel • Edwina McCann – Editor-in- Chief, Vogue Australia • Kellie Hush – Editor-in-Chief, Harper’s BAZAAR • Scott Schuman – Founder, The Sartorialist • Simon Lock – CEO, The Lock Group • Sophie Clark – Womenswear Sydney-based fashion designer Christopher Esber won the Australia regional final of the International Woolmark General Manager, David Jones Prize and will compete in the grand final of the coverted award at Milan Fashion Week in February 2014.
fiXXed from Asia, SIBLING from Europe, important retailers of the world including FAST FACTS Rahul Mishra from India and the USA’s Harvey Nichols, London; Saks Fifth l The regional finalists have been Altuzarra will compete in the global final Avenue, New York; 10 Corso Como, Milan; announced for the 2013/14 in February after winning their respective Joyce, China; David Jones, Sydney; and International Woolmark Prize regional finals in June and July of this My Theresa, Germany and online. global final, to be held in Milan next year. Last year’s International Woolmark February. The eventual winner will have the Prize winner, Christian Wijnants, is l The final winning collection, made opportunity to be stocked in the most currently enjoying retail success with his from Australian Merino wool, will be commercially available at key retail outlets worldwide. l Sydney-based label Christopher Esber is flying the flag for Australia Asia judging panel after winning the regional final in • Angelica Cheung – Editor-in- July. Chief, Vogue China • Bartley Ingram – Head of Art & Visual, Joyce or an emerging fashion designer, the • Christian Wijnants – Fprospect of not only showing on the International Woolmark Prize Milan Fashion Week schedule but also 2012/13 winner having a mini-capsule collection made • Kevin Carrigan – Global commercially available in some of the Creative Director, Calvin Klein world’s leading retailers is a dream come platinum label, Calvin Klein true. white label, Calvin Klein Jeans For the next five months, five of the and Calvin Klein Underwear world’s future stars in the fashion industry • Simon Lock – CEO, The Lock will be busy creating a six-piece capsule Group collection as part of the final judging for the International Woolmark Prize 2013/14. Hong Kong-based label ffiXXed Christopher Esber from Australia, that won the Asia regional final. September 2013 OFF-FARM 5 BEYOND THE BALE
winning collection, which is available from Rahul Mishra won the this month at the Sydney flagship store of India and Middle East David Jones. For Wijnants, it can be said regional final. his International Woolmark Prize journey has come full circle as this year he found India and Middle East himself sitting on the judging panel for judging panel the Asia regional final. • Peter Ackroyd – President, Back on home soil, eight of Australia’s International Wool Textile most talented emerging designers faced Organisation an elite judging panel at the picturesque • Imran Amed – Founder, The Sydney Theatre Company, Walsh Bay. Business of Fashion Sydney-based designer Christopher • Manish Arora – Indian fashion Esber and his eponymous label was up designer against Alistair Trung, DRESS UP, Haryono • Simon Lock – CEO, The Lock Setiadi, KAHLO, Michael Lo Sordo, Lui Group Hon and STRATAEUS.CARLUCCI, but • Sunil Sethi – President, Fashion Esber took the honours by utilising Design Council of India innovative wool product developments in the form of deconstructed suiting. "It is such an honour to win the Woolmark prize as it is the highest recognition my brand has received to date," Esber said. Altuzarra who won the "Thank you to Australian Wool USA regional final. Innovation and Woolmark for my nomination and inclusion in this USA judging panel prestigious international award. I am so • Alexander Wang – Creative excited to represent Australia in Milan in Director, Alexander Wang, Inc. February 2014." and Balenciaga The International Woolmark Prize • Colleen Sherin – Senior fashion reflects AWI’s ongoing commitment to director, Saks Fifth Avenue educating the next generation of fashion • Malcolm Carfrae – EVP of Global industry leaders about the extraordinary Communications, Calvin Klein potential of wool. And according to AWI • Stefano Tonchi – Editor-in-Chief, Chief Strategy and Marketing Officer, Rob W magazine Langtry, it provides a platform to forge • Steven Kolb – CEO, Council of ongoing partnerships with these future Fashion Designers of America industry leaders. • Vanessa Friedman – Fashion “We congratulate Christopher Esber Editor, Financial Times on winning the Australian regional prize,” Mr Langtry said. “With the exciting expansion of the prize across Asia and the Middle East, the International Woolmark Prize is a truly global UK brand SIBLING that won celebration of emerging talent and an the European regional final. increasingly important opportunity to see commercial success on a global scale Europe judging panel each year. • Angela Missoni – Creative “We look forward to supporting all Director Womenswear, Missoni the finalists in their journey toward the • Franca Sozzani – Editor-in-Chief, final event in Milan in February 2014. We Vogue Italia, L’Uomo Vogue Italia wish all the designers participating in the and Vogue.it. Editorial Director, prize this year the best and we hope the Condé Nast Italia. “Goodwill inherent properties of wool will stimulate Ambassador for Fashion 4 the designers’ creative thinking.” Development” for the UN • Godfrey Deeny – Editor-at-Large More information: of Le Figaro www.woolmarkprize.com • Susanne Botschen – Founder www.woolmark.com/woolmark-prize and Creative Director of My Theresa • Tim Blanks – Editor-at-Large Style.com 6 OFF-FARM September 2013 BEYOND THE BALE
Alexander Wang promotes Merino
two years, he decided to pursue the in 1980 for Rolling Stone magazine, which FAST FACTS launch of his own label. was photographed just five hours before l Celebrated American fashion In 2008, he was the recipient of the John was tragically killed; a pregnant designer Alexander Wang has been Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund. He has also and nude Demi Moore in 2008 for Vanity photographed by world-renowned been the recipient of the Swarovski Fair, Queen Elizabeth II on her state visit Annie Leibovitz for advertisements Womenswear Designer of the Year, to the United States in 2007; and Bruce promoting AWI’s Merino Wool. No Swiss Textiles Award, was acknowledged Springsteen for his Born in the USA Finer FeelingTM global fibre advocacy by GQ as Best Menswear Designer of album cover in 1984. campaign. the Year and by the CFDA for Best The advertisements are part of AWI’s l Select pieces of his Fall/Winter 2013 Accessory Designer. He was also one of Merino Wool. No Finer Feeling TM global and Fall/Winter 2014 collections will the judges of the USA regional final of fibre advocacy campaign that positions include Merino wool and carry the the International Woolmark Prize in July Merino wool as the fibre of choice for the Woolmark logo. this year. Today, Alexander Wang has over world’s leading designers and premium l Alexander Wang was one of the 15 stores worldwide, including its own apparel brands. The global campaign judges of the USA regional final of e-commerce site shipping to more than addresses a new, younger generation the International Woolmark Prize. 50 countries, and is sold in more than of discerning shoppers, establishing 700 of the world’s leading retailers. Australian Merino wool as the fibre of Annie Leibovitz has been a choice for fine, contemporary fashion. eading fashion designer Alexander professional photographer for more LWang has been photographed by world- than 40 years. Among her most notable More information: renowned photographer Annie Leibovitz portraits are: John Lennon and Yoko Ono www.alexanderwang.com as part of AWI’s Merino Wool. No Finer FeelingTM global fibre advocacy campaign. Wang will include Merino wool pieces in his namesake brand’s Fall/Winter 2013 collection and champion the benefits of Merino wool as a luxury fibre. “I have used Merino wool since I first started designing so collaborating with Woolmark was a natural fit for me,” said Alexander Wang. “Wool has strong environmental credentials, and it always feels modern, and relevant.” For the two season partnership, select pieces of Wang’s Fall/Winter 2013 and Fall/Winter 2014 collections will include Merino wool and carry the Woolmark logo. Leibovitz has captured the essence of Alexander Wang and the beauty of his collaboration with AWI. The portrait of the designer will appear in the world’s leading fashion magazines as well as in digital and social media. “We are thrilled to be collaborating with celebrated designer Alexander Wang whose modern sensibility and innovative designs exhibit the beauty of Merino wool,” says AWI CEO Stuart McCullough. “His ability to think differently embodies our ethos of exploring the boundless potential and versatility of wool in fashion designers’ creations.” Alexander Wang was born and raised in San Francisco, California and later moved to New York City to attend Leading American fashion designer Alexander Wang features, along with a Merino sheep, in the latest advertisement Parsons School of Design. In 2005, after promoting AWI’s Merino Wool. No Finer FeelingTM global fibre advocacy campaign. September 2013 OFF-FARM 7 BEYOND THE BALE
Scott Schuman (right) with Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Australia, Edwina McCann (left) and AWI Fashion Communications Manager, Melissa Grace (centre), examining a design of Christopher Esber during the judging of the Australia regional final of the International Woolmark Prize.
“I always really love working with young the runway on real people, not just models FAST FACTS designers, young talented people, and in a magazine. It gives them a chance to l Scott Schuman, aka The Sartorialist, seeing how they take something as basic imagine fashion on more than a size two who pioneered fashion photography as wool to life and figuring out how to use 18-year-old model. in blog form, was one of the judges their creativity, whether it’s their artistic “Social media has totally changed the of the Australia regional final of the creativity or technology, to reimagine wool way people live their life both locally and International Woolmark Prize. in a new way,” Scott told us. globally. People now feel more connected l Scott says social media has given “So the thing I’m looking forward to to global tribes of like-minded people, than people a chance to see fashion from the most is seeing creative minds at work necessarily being chained to their physical the catwalk on “real people”, not just when they’re given as much freedom as space in which they live. models in a magazine. Woolmark has given them in this contest.” “I think it’s had a chance to bring l AWI continues to boost its use of Scott said he thinks social media is people together and, depending on what social media to help reconnect a new influencing fashion, and society, in new, their likes and loves are, to not feel so alone generation of consumers with the positive ways. on the planet.” natural wonders of wool. “I think that social media has given people a chance to see the fashion from More information: www.thesartorialist.com
enowned American fashion photo- Rblogger Scott Schuman was a guest of AWI in Sydney in July as a judge of the Australia regional final of the International Social media extends wool’s reach Woolmark Prize. Scott is famous for creating The WI continues to boost its use of social media to help reconnect a new generation Sartorialist fashion photo-blog in 2005 Aof consumers with the natural wonders of wool. The company is helping drive with the idea of creating a two-way the agenda for wool on Facebook and other social platforms such as Twitter and dialogue with its readers about the world YouTube to generate positive online conversation about wool. of style and its relationship to daily life. Of note, AWI’s “We Love Wool” page on Facebook more than doubled its fan base Scott photographs people he sees “on the over the past year to more than 386,000 fans. The Woolmark pages on Facebook had street” whose style he finds striking and similar results, increasing the number of fans on Facebook to 205,000 fans. then posts the photos to the blog. In total, our “social community” on Facebook increased by 80 per cent from the He has redefined street-style fashion, start of the 2012/13 financial year to 591,000 by the end of the year. The content we photo blogging and the use of mixing released through our communities reached over 150 million people online. This reach social media with a savvy sense of is created when our audience interacts with our content and it is seen by their friends. business acumen. AWI also uploads videos – on subjects across the whole of the wool pipeline – Beyond the Bale caught up with Scott onto the company’s YouTube video sharing channel which has received more than who was looking forward to the judging one million views. of the International Woolmark Prize Our social media presence also includes Twitter and has recently extended to regional final. Instagram and Pinterest (online photo-sharing services). 8 OFF-FARM September 2013 BEYOND THE BALE
Part of the three page fold-out spread of “The English Gentleman at Lord’s” event that featured in the UK edition of GQ magazine. PHOTO: Robert Fairer
historical role played by Merino wool FAST FACTS throughout the spring and summer seasons l Australian Merino wool and lightweight Cool Wool apparel were showcased as the over the centuries in a variety of lightweight modern face of British elegance at the iconic Lord’s cricket ground in June in front fabrics and knitwear. of an international audience of buyers and journalists. The event paid homage to AWI’s Cool l The event was staged by AWI in collaboration with the bespoke tailors of Savile Wool campaign, relaunched last year to Row as part of the Spring/Summer 2014 edition of the menswear-specific fashion extend the wool selling seasons beyond week London Collections: Men. the traditional autumn and winter. The l As a supporter of London Collections: Men since the event’s inception, AWI campaign aims to persuade fashion continues to highlight the relevance of Australian Merino wool within menswear designers and consumers that lightweight and especially within the British fashion industry. Merino wool is the perfect natural fibre for warmer climates, due to its breathability, temperature management, elasticity, t seemed only fitting that a place where Row’s famous tailors in stylish attire for the performance, fineness and drape. Ilegends are made provided the backdrop warmer seasons. AWI Chief Strategy and Marketing for an event starring a legendary fibre – that The tailored collection represented Officer Rob Langtry, who attended the historic home of the gentleman’s game a powerful combination of beautiful the English Gentleman at Lord’s event, was the setting for an event presenting materials – principally Merino wool in said the partnership which had formed the modern-face of British elegance – and fine lightweight Cool Wool fabrics – and between AWI and Savile Row was one that the bespoke tailors of Savile Row once unparalleled artisanship. built on similar principles. again formed a hard-hitting partnership The different outfits on show, spread “Both share values of excellence, with AWI and the Woolmark brand to through the heritage rooms and terraces integrity and a commitment to quality,” showcase first class craftsmanship and fine of Lord’s Pavilion, ranged from summer Mr Langtry said. “Our collaboration at the Merino wool in front of an international sports jackets to cricket sweaters, taking Lord’s event showed the level of elegance audience of buyers and journalists. in blazers, lightweight suits and flannel and beauty which could be achieved Staged as part of the Spring/Summer waistcoats with trousers. through Merino wool. The fibre is very much 2014 edition of the London Collections: Under the artistic direction of GQ relevant today.” Men fashion week, “The English Gentleman Creative Fashion Director Jo Levin, the Legends of cricket attending the event at Lord’s” event involved more than one event celebrated the authentic English included Jeff Thomson, Brian Lara, Graham hundred dapper models dressed by Savile approach to menswear, highlighting the Gooch, John Emburey and Gladstone Small. September 2013 OFF-FARM 9 BEYOND THE BALE
Cool Wool at London Collections: Men In addition to the collaboration with Designers at London Collections: Savile Row at Lord’s Cricket Ground, AWI strongly promoted Merino wool by teaming Men featuring Cool Wool up with some of the best designers at London Collections: Men – the focus of the Richard Nicoll initiative being to showcase lightweight “Merino wool is an important aspect of my collections as it anchors the collections Cool Wool. with a modern elegance and authenticity and brings a complementary contrast to the As a supporter of London Collections: more casual pieces to create a cool mashed and eclectic definition of modern style.” Men since its inception, AWI continues to expand and develop its activities and Richard James partnerships at the event as a way to Richard James showcased unstructured and unlined precision cut tailoring in super highlight the relevance of Merino wool lightweight fabrics inspired by a colour-drenched fading summer’s day. Fine worsted within menswear. Cool Wool fabrics feature prominently throughout tailoring and casual wear. AWI’s focus this year was on continuing collaborations with designers E Tautz Richard Nicoll, Richard James and E E Tautz used a combination of incredible technical wool fabrics, woven with nylon Tautz, along with new collaborations and silk to add shimmer/sparkle, in some cases overprinted, and beautiful vibrant with Jonathan Saunders (extending the Cool Wool cloths, reworked from the 1920’s archive in neons and other super brightly relationship into menswear), Christopher coloured yarns by Bower Roebuck. Raeburn and Lou Dalton. These six prestigious and highly Jonathan Saunders appreciated UK menswear designers “We have looked at different ways of how to innovate and elevate traditional wool promoted Cool Wool through each of their suiting cloths. Laser cut and bonded surface applications are used to give traditional Spring/Summer 2014 collections which they tailoring a modern finish. These shell like constructions have allowed us to create launched at London Collections: Men. lightweight, unlined garments, suitable for today’s modern man.” “London Collections: Men presented AWI with the perfect platform to showcase Christopher Raeburn Cool Wool and the versatility of the fibre “Working with Cool Wool has been a fantastic experience. We've been able to use fine throughout the trans-seasonal months and Merino throughout our desert-inspired collection to bring a completely new dynamic into summer,” Mr Langtry said. to the Christopher Raeburn collection. My personal favourites include our signature “We are delighted to see Cool Wool hoodie.” fabrics incorporated into the Spring/ Summer 2014 shows of six of the event’s Lou Dalton most revered designers." “Coming from a tailoring background the use of wool in some form has always been a big part of my collections. For SS14 using Cool Wool was a given, choosing to put More information: www.woolmark.com/ what is often on the interior as the exterior this time worked so well with the lightness lords www.londoncollections.co.uk/men of cloth and the Cool Wool aesthetic.”
Richard James Cool Wool design Lou Dalton Cool Wool design Richard Nicoll Cool Wool design 1010 OFF-FARM September 2013 BEYOND THE BALE Merino wool in Vogue Paris
firmly making its mark in the birthplace of behind-the-scenes of the photo shoot FAST FACTS fashion’s chic womenswear. and features exclusive interviews with l AWI continues to re-establish its The French edition of Vogue, the designers. presence in France and engage with Vogue Paris, has collaborated with four In his interview Jean Paul Gaultier some of the leading international internationally renowned fashion designers, provides an insight into his thoughts brands in this key womenswear as part of AWI’s Merino Wool. No Finer on Merino wool and how the fibre’s market necessary to increase the Feeling™ fibre advocacy campaign, to natural properties make it both sensual demand for Merino wool. include a special eight-page feature on and sophisticated. lThe French edition of Vogue has Merino wool in the September issue of the AWI’s Chief Strategy and Marketing collaborated with AWI and four magazine. Officer Rob Langtry said this year’s feature internationally renowned fashion The feature, titled “Wool Look – the fibre in Vogue Paris follows on from a similar designers to promote Merino wool in of fashion”, illustrates unique and inspiring feature last year, which shows that AWI is the September issue of the magazine. interpretations of Merino wool by designers serious about re-engaging with the country l The eight-page feature is part of Sonia Rykiel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Nina Ricci so influential in the fashion industry. AWI’s Merino Wool. No Finer Feeling™ and Chloé. “AWI’s feature in last year’s September fibre advocacy campaign. The promotion has been designed issue of Vogue Paris set the bar for high for cross-media distribution, having been calibre designers to join in the collaboration launched online by Vogue in a microsite and endorse the Merino Wool. No Finer rance continues to remain at the at www.vogue.fr/woolmark2013 on the Feeling™ campaign,” Mr Langtry said. Fforefront of AWI’s marketing of Merino same day the September issue hit the “We are delighted to see Jean Paul wool, with the renaissance of the fibre newsstands. The microsite takes you Gaultier return for the 2013 special feature, and the inclusion of Sonia Rykiel, Nina Ricci and Chloé highlights the intrinsic connection between the global fashion industry at the highest level and the Woomark brand. “France remains perhaps the single most influential flagship market for women’s apparel – it is home to the brands that set the luxury goods trends and drive fashion.” The five-year global Merino Wool. No Finer Feeling™ campaign aims to inform a new generation of consumers – and the fashion community – about the natural attributes and benefits of Merino wool. The campaign establishes Merino wool as the fibre of choice for fine, contemporary fashion. “The campaign most recently has been directed towards advocacy of the fibre through a presentation of the fibre story and commercial product by leading fashion apparel brands,” Mr Langtry added. “The campaign has also moved from a more traditional display format to an advertorial format, and from the use of traditional media to an increased use of rich digital and social media. It is clear from the growth in partner participation rates the advertorial approach is our future direction and is likely to generate greater impact and stronger demand growth.”
More information: www.vogue.fr/woolmark2013 Pages from the feature in the September edition of Vogue Paris promoting Merino wool. www.merino.com September 2013 OFF-FARM 11 BEYOND THE BALE Back to nature in Vogue UK
FAST FACTS l The UK edition of Vogue has collaborated with AWI and six world renowned UK-based fashion designers to promote Merino wool in the October issue of the magazine. l The designers, including Victoria Beckham, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney, present their modern interpretations of Merino wool for this Vogue feature. l The eight-page feature titled Back to Nature is part of AWI’s Merino Wool. No Finer Feeling™ fibre advocacy campaign.
he October issue of Vogue UK is Tgetting back to nature, with the high- profile fashion magazine publishing an eight-page feature on Merino wool. The UK remains one of the most important and arguably the most dynamic flagship market in fashion apparel, in both marketing and manufacturing terms. Photographed by internationally acclaimed fashion and music photographer Yelena Yemchuk, the feature is running as part of the Merino Wool. No Finer FeelingTM fibre advocacy campaign and collaborates with six renowned fashion designers. Victoria Beckham, Alexander McQueen, Roksanda Illincic, Christopher Kane, J.W. Anderson and Stella McCartney present Pages from the feature in the October edition of Vogue UK promoting Merino wool. their modern interpretations of Merino wool for this Vogue feature titled Back to As the text explains: AWI Chief Strategy and Marketing Nature. Appropriately titled, Yemchuk shot “Contemporary British designers know Officer Rob Langtry said, “Moving into the Back to Nature in the great outdoors with the virtues of a fabric that works with them fourth year of the five year global Merino a mob of Bowmont sheep - a British breed as opposed to against. Offering unlimited Wool. No Finer Feeling™ campaign, we that is a cross between Saxon Merino (75%) fabric and design options and naturally are now seeing apparel brands focusing and Shetland (25%) - at Westcott Farm in anti-static, Merino handles like a dream their promotions in leading international Devon, UK. It illustrates the farm to fashion when it comes to creating the end vision.” media titles on the ingredient fibre of story and places a greater emphasis on the The Back to Nature feature will be their seasonal designs. They are heavily wool fibre than what has generally been distributed across both online and print featuring and referencing Merino sheep and done in the past. mediums, with a video also accompanying the versatility and performance benefits The garments featured capture Merino the photographs. of the fibre. The louder voice from these wool’s versatility across different pieces Magazine features such as this, the leading media and designer collaborations of knitwear, wovenwear, outerwear and Vogue Paris feature (opposite), along with in their education of consumers is a clear next-to-skin apparel. The text used to Fleece Academy published in GQ UK (see indication that the communication started complement the photographs expresses overleaf), provide valuable publicity for by AWI in 2010, when we returned to global Merino wool’s natural properties, Merino wool and the Woolmark brand, marketing, is well on track.” performance benefits and trans-seasonal and cement the fibre’s rightful place in the usage, exemplifying the notion that style fashion industry and within key consumer More information: www.vogue.co.uk and ethics go hand-in-hand. markets across the world. www.merino.com 12 OFF-FARM September 2013 BEYOND THE BALE
FAST FACTS l The UK version of GQ magazine is publishing a six-page feature on GQ UK: Merino wool in its October edition. l The promotional feature collaborates with top menswear designers who a yarn about Merino endorse Merino wool. l Titled Fleece Academy, a strong fibre and a garment’s origins. The photos and ultimately see the demand for wool emphasis is placed on consumer depict autumn layering of key Merino wool increase in premium markets. education and on the Merino fibre. pieces, expressing the versatility of the With consumers becoming more and fibre from knitwear to fine tailoring, and more concerned with provenance stories from softness to performance coatings as well the eco-credentials of a fibre, it is ith London firmly cementing its and accessories. important to continue to spread wool’s Wplace as the home of menswear, Shot on location at Spectrum Yarns message in these markets. high-profile men’s fashion magazine GQ UK and Taylor & Lodge in Huddersfield, the GQ highlights the fact that Merino wool is celebrating Merino wool in this lucrative collaborative campaign has a strong focus is a fully renewable fibre source, stating that market, with a special six-page feature on education, as well as an emphasis on as long as “the grass grows, the rain falls paying homage to the noble fibre in the the grassroots of a garment. As the GQ and the sun shines”, wool will continue to magazine’s October edition. feature explains: be produced and Australia will remain at Titled Fleece Academy, the “When versatility, quality and the forefront of the supply chain. feature collaborates with more than 15 performance are needed, fashion brands It also highlights that wool is ideal internationally acclaimed fashion designers, buy Merino wool…from farms that have for creating richly coloured fabrics, is some of whom also support AWI’s Cool stayed in the same family for more than adaptable to innovation and has unique Wool campaign. 100 years. Human values, as much as softness and performance attributes. E. Tautz, Jonathan Saunders, Richard climate and terrain, are the foundations “Whether it’s next-to-skin garments, Nicoll, Lou Dalton and Christopher Raeburn of these industries, and Merino wool fine tailoring or robust outerwear, Merino all recently presented their Spring Summer provides the staple ingredient for the wool is the designer’s choice.” 2014 range at London Collections: Men (see global fashion arena.” Fleece Academy has been produced for page 9), which had a strong focus on Cool It is promotional pieces such as this cross-media distribution, with online and Wool lightweight fabrics. Here, they return which play a crucial role in educating a mobile variations created to further extend to endorse Merino wool alongside fashion new generation about wool’s inherent the feature’s reach. GQ’s website will also heavyweights including Z Zegna, Paul properties, as well as help place the fibre host video footage of the Fleece Academy Smith, Christian Lacroix and Johnstons of as the fabric of choice for contemporary photoshoot, offering viewers an exclusive Elgin for the Fleece Academy. fashion. Having internationally acclaimed behind-the-scenes look. With five stunning images against the designers endorse Merino wool builds on backdrop of two English mills, the images the reputation that AWI and the Woolmark More information: www.gq-magazine.co.uk offer readers an insight into the woollen brand have been working to achieve www.merino.com
Pages from the feature in the October edition of GQ UK promoting Merino wool. September 2013 OFF-FARM 13 BEYOND THE BALE
Wool revs up!
The Parcour Roadster, designed by Italdesign Giugiaro, uses Australian Merino wool in the concept car’s interior.
by Italdesign Giugiaro with a Lamborghini FAST FACTS engine and an interior of high quality l AWI has collaborated with Italian Australian Merino wool fabric made by weaver Lanificio F.lli Cerruti and Cerruti, is a research prototype like no automobile design company Italdesign other. It was put on show in June for the Giugiaro on a project that highlights first time at the Pitti Uomo trade show wool’s versatility. in Florence in front of an audience of l Australian Merino wool has been international media and buyers. used both in the interior of a Limited edition driving jackets, also concept car and in a capsule made from fine Merino wool fabric from collection of driving jackets. the Natural Born Elegance line by Julian l The car and jackets were unveiled at Cerruti, were unveiled to complement the the Pitti Uomo trade show in June in car. Two types of jackets were developed: front of an audience of international one with knit sleeves for a more casual media and buyers. look, and one with fabric sleeves for a more One of the Julian Cerruti driving jackets made polished look. Both types ensure extreme from Australian Merino wool. comfort and practicality making the driver ool is young. Wool has feel totally at ease behind the wheel. right way and strict method to follow. “Wexceptional qualities that allow 550 jackets were made – the same Everything was defined and I have heard us to work it in new and unusual ways. It number as the horsepower of the V10 ‘you have to do it this way because you is not only elegant, but has to be eclectic, Lamborghini engine mounted in the cannot do it otherwise’. Wool had a hybrid, urban and free.” Parcour. The jackets and the car interior functional purpose for concrete needs This is the maxim of Nino Cerutti, who both carry the Woolmark logo. rather than for individual desires. manages Lanificio F.lli Cerruti – one of the According to Nino Cerruti, the use of “Today, I believe that duty has world’s most prestigious weavers which Merino fabric in jackets and car interiors given way to freedom, and freedom is has been a symbol of elegance and the demonstrate the fibre’s versatility and is everything. Today, the urban environment best wool products since 1881. an expression of a new way of thinking. has occupied the place of the countryside, AWI has been working with Lanificio “The precious Cerruti fabric is used wool is no longer a need but a desire. F.lli Cerruti and well known automobile in an unusual way, to create urban and “The luxury of today is comfort and design company Italdesign Giugiaro unconventional pieces and to cover the the time we dedicate to ourselves in a in a collaboration that showcases the seats of the latest prototype created by warm and relaxing atmosphere. Whichever versatility and potential of wool. Italdesign Giugiaro,” he said. piece you choose, it will be unique and The result of the collaboration, the “Once, it was thought that there unrepeatable, just like your life. Parcour Roadster concept car, designed was only one way to work with wool, a “Wool is young. This is my motto.” 14 OFF-FARM September 2013 BEYOND THE BALE The Wool Lab: Seasonal trend guide for wool
The collection is the result of intensive easy to navigate and the perfect starting FAST FACTS research. The fabrics and yarns in The point for those interested in discovering l Now in its third year, AWI’s The Wool Wool Lab have been selected by AWI from wool’s trend forecasts. Lab seasonal guide to the best wool the collections of some of the world’s This website complements the more fabrics and yarns in the world has leading textile companies. All the fabrics in depth iPad app of The Wool Lab that become a well-respected and widely and yarns are commercially available and is available free of charge through Apple recognised tool for companies in the feature Merino wool products in line with iTunes. The app mirrors the mood boards fashion industry the leading fashion and textile trends. and fabric swatches in The Wool Lab l The Autumn/Winter 2014/15 edition The Wool Lab includes swatches, and presents the seven inspiring themes of The Wool Lab was officially mood boards and presentations that tell from the Autumn/Winter 2014/15 edition. launched at the Pitti Uomo trade a trend story and encourage retailers Bringing The Wool Lab to your fingertips, show in June. and brands to view and source wool as a the app allows viewers to discover the l To help increase the availability and premium fibre. seasonal trends in more detail, and zoom reach of The Wool Lab, AWI has in on fabric and yarns swatches. launched a new website dedicated to Digital editions The functionality of the iPad app has The Wool Lab and an updated version While the full edition of The Wool Lab is a been updated. The Wool Lab Version of the iPad app. view-on-request guide that includes fabric 2.0 allows users in the textile industry samples, AWI has launched a free website to create personalised online swatch dedicated solely to The Wool Lab at www. collections and then make requests for the thewoollab.com to help increase the real fabric samples from suppliers. ince its launch in 2011, The Wool Lab availability and reach of the guide. With S– AWI’s seasonal guide to the best a clean and open look, this new portal is More information: www.thewoollab.com wool fabrics and yarns in the world – has quickly become a well-respected and widely recognised tool for companies in the fashion industry, inspiring them to use wool in their apparel collections. Now in its third year, the latest edition of The Wool Lab was officially launched in June at the Pitti Uomo trade show held in Florence. This latest offering presents seven inspiring themes for the Autumn/ Winter 2014/15 season. More than 250 industry members viewed The Wool Lab at Pitti Uomo, with many requesting one-on-one meetings with their local office of The Woolmark Company. AWI country manager for Italy, Francesco Magri, said the feedback from Pitti Uomo this year was clear: “Knitwear is becoming more and more important. We noticed a strong focus on more urban and young looks using more compact textiles and yarns.” This edition of The Wool Lab will continue to be exhibited at other trade shows and at workshops and seminars, as well as retail and manufacturer training sessions, all of which have proved in the past to be extremely valuable for industry As well as being launched at trade events across the world, The Wool Lab for Autumn/Winter stakeholders. 2014/15 is available on www.thewoollab.com and as an iPad app (above). September 2013 OFF-FARM 15 BEYOND THE BALE Nurturing with nature
FAST FACTS l AWI has reinforced its presence in the childrenswear market, highlighting its new Woolmark Nurture brand and introducing new items to its Merino Mini collection at the Pitti Bimbo trade show. l A joint advertising campaign with Italian children’s brand Il Gufo was also launched, focusing on the wool capsule collection resulting from the collaboration between the two brands. l The partnership is a new step in educating consumers on the benefits of wool in childrenswear.
WI’s Mothers and Babies program was Aon show in June at the world’s most important international fashion event for children and teenagers, Pitti Bimbo. Held in Florence, the 77th edition of the show attracted 5800 global trade buyers along with 10,000 international visitors. For AWI, the show acted as a platform to launch its new brand, Woolmark Nurture, and highlight the new set of specifications associated with this brand, ensuring optimum health and wellbeing for babies and children. AWI reinforced its presence at the exhibition with a new stand, conceived to offer a “wool experience” to visitors, mixing science and entertainment to highlight the natural qualities of Merino Advertising from the new joint campaign between AWI and Italian children’s brand Il Gufo. wool fibre and its benefits in childrenswear. In the new booth, AWI introduced items The partnership has seen the “Il Gufo is a brand with which AWI from the Merino Mini collections which have development of a colourful collection shares values of excellence, innovation and been created by AWI to showcase product of 100 per cent Merino wool jumpers commitment to quality,” Mr Langtry said. development ideas and innovations to the that showcase the natural qualities of “AWI is proud to grow the partnership industry. This was through samples of jersey the fibre. The campaign represents the with Il Gufo through the launch of a pieces and bodysuits, knitted pullovers positive values AWI shares with Il Gufo, joint international advertising campaign and pants, blankets and other garments, presenting a joyful image of childhood which celebrates the beauty of Merino produced using the finest Merino wool. and a modern concept of childrenswear. wool. The campaign is a new step AWI also hosted an industry event on The campaign was aired globally in educating consumers about the the first night of the show, building and from August, supporting the launch of benefits of wool in childrenswear. strengthening relationships as well as the collection in Il Gufo’s eight flagship “With the aim to increase the demand connecting industry partners to key brands. stores, to more than 750 wholesalers, and for wool, AWI will continue to promote A joint advertising campaign in four shop-in-shops, in nine countries. wool in the Mothers and Babies category, with Italian luxury children’s brand Il According to AWI Chief of Strategy supporting the best brands through product Gufo was also launched, focusing on and Marketing Officer Rob Langtry, it is development innovations, and educating the the wool capsule collection resulting the common values and beliefs shared supply chain from retailers to consumers.” from the collaboration between the by the two companies which provide two brands, which started in 2012. the backbone to this new campaign. More information: www.ilgufo.com 16 OFF-FARM September 2013 BEYOND THE BALE MERINO FOR THE SLOPES AND CITY
S apparel brand Neve the brand. This year’s partnership follows UDesigns has this year on from a previous collaboration, where established a partnership with AWI conducted in-store training sessions AWI to expand its Merino wool for retail staff. apparel product line. “Neve Designs is well-respected not The Colorado-based only in the foothills of ski slopes, but the company, which became a company’s apparel is increasingly being Woolmark licensee earlier this spotted in urban cities across the USA,” year, is a specialty manufacturer AWI country manager for the Americas, and retailer of distinctly Michelle Lee, said. functional and fashionable knit “To coincide with the release of Neve sweaters, outerwear, base-layers Designs’ new Merino wool range, AWI has and accessories – all with an produced three point-of-sale items. One alpine feel. flyer was created primarily for retail staff The partnership will help outlining the natural attributes of Merino boost the presence of Australian wool, which will help educate them about wool within the American the fibre and in turn pass this information market as well as in versatile on to their customers. lifestyle fashion. For Neve “Two consumer-facing pieces were Designs, the partnership allows also created, in the form of pocket size the brand to continue to build fold-outs similar in format to fold-out trail upon its quality, performance and maps commonly available at ski resorts. beautiful design aesthetic with One is for alpine dwellers, whilst the premium Merino wool. other is for those in urban cities. Each has Neve Designs marketing director information about Merino wool and apparel Jennifer Tille said the mixture of care information. The alpine one also has Neve’s apparel designs and use of information on North America’s top ski quality fibres adds strength and appeal resorts, whilst the urban one features some to its brand. of the world’s most festive winter cities. “It is paramount to our company “Neve blends resort performance that we continue to improve the with city style and is a true innovator in performance and durability of our mountain lifestyle fashion. We are thrilled to apparel, while preserving its luxurious partner with a brand that is at home on the touch,” Ms Tille said. “With Merino wool, mountain but has an eye for classic style.” we are able to use an environmentally Neve Designs is an official partner responsible fibre that is not only of the US Ski Team and will provide the extremely high quality, but also team with wool knit products for the 2014 incredibly comfortable and durable.” Winter Olympics. FAST FACTS In time for America’s autumn l AWI has partnered with Woolmark season, Neve has unveiled a new More information: www.nevedesigns.com licensee and US apparel brand Neve range of men’s and women’s styles Designs to help produce a Merino wool made from 100 per cent Merino range for the northern hemisphere’s wool, including a revamped Sport autumn/winter season. Collection, a fresh take on the l Neve Designs blends ski resort timeless Classic Collection and performance with city style and new Outerwear Collection. is a true innovator in mountain For AWI, the partnership lifestyle fashion. increases the Woolmark brand’s l Point-of-sale material was also presence within the lucrative US created to increase the Woolmark market. Point-of-sale marketing brand’s presence in North America collateral produced by AWI in and promote consumer knowledge conjunction with Neve Designs about Merino wool. builds consumer awareness of wool’s natural benefits as well as September 2013 OFF-FARM 17 BEYOND THE BALE
FAST FACTS MERINO IN REBEL’S l Rebel Sport has unveiled an activewear collection made with Australian Merino wool and bearing the Woolmark Blend logo. SUPER NATURAL l The new Super Natural sports collection is available at more than 90 Rebel stores nationwide and online. COLLECTION
hree great Australian success stories “The Merino fibre is a winner as it offers T— Merino wool, the Woolmark brand both performance and comfort, no matter and Australia’s leading sporting retailer what the exercise or the season," Mr Kain Rebel — have united to offer Australians a said. "Merino is synonymous with Australia unique range of sporting apparel. And with and the addition of a range featuring summer just around the corner, now is the natural fibre offers Rebel a unique point of time to start thinking about getting fit. difference and underlines our commitment Rebel has announced Australian Merino to offer customers the most diverse and wool is now available at more than 90 of progressive range of sporting apparel.” its stores nationwide. AWI Global Category Manager for The new Super Natural Australian Sports and Outdoors, Lars Ulvesund, Merino sports collection for both men and added, “Over the past few years we have women contains Woolmark Blend quality seen Merino wool gaining ground in sports fabrics – a 50/50 fine Australian Merino apparel in Europe and the USA, so it’s very wool/polyester blend that has been created rewarding to see this initiative in Australia using the latest knitting technology. with such a high profile and well-regarded Rebel Sport’s marketing general retailer like Rebel.” manager Rob Kain said using natural fibre was part of the ongoing innovation of the More information: Kyly Clarke, is the face of the Super Natural Rebel range. www.rebelsport.com.au Merino range at Rebel Sport.
FAST FACTS MOVER: IN WOOL l Leading Swiss snow sports brand Mover has joined the Woolmark licensing program. WE TRUST l The company pioneered the use of wool in apparel filling instead of synthetics. s Australia moves through the tail- gearing up for their first fall of snow. And Aend of its ski season, the northern whilst Australia is more than 14,000km away hemisphere’s snow enthusiasts will be from Switzerland, it is almost certain that “By becoming a Woolmark licensee AWI wool grown from our paddocks will be seen is able to work closely with Mover and the on skiers and snowboarders carving their two can continue to deliver the very best in way down the Swiss Alps. snow apparel,” he said. Leading Swiss snow sports apparel “Innovative developments such as brand Mover, which has long believed in wool-filled jackets and pants represent the the benefits of natural fibres, has recently changing face of the activewear market, become a Woolmark licensee as the first which is seeing an increasing number of stage in a product development and garments made from wool. Mover has long marketing partnership with AWI. seen the potential for wool in outdoor “For us, this is a very logical next step,” apparel and this is represented by the Mover owner and CEO Nicolas Rochat said. variety offered by the brand.” “Innovation and high quality apparel has long Mover’s innovative approach to mixing been our signature trademark and partnering wool with Gore-Tex® rids the need for with AWI puts us in a position where we can synthetic insulation and offers maximum further enhance the focus on this.” breathability and comfort no matter the AWI Global Category Manager for weather conditions. Similarly, Mover’s 2012/13 Sports and Outdoors, Lars Ulvesund, says winter collection used the finest Merino wool Mover was a pioneer in designing ski jackets for all base-layers and liners. Such is Mover’s faith in wool as a performance and pants with wool filling instead of with fibre that its mantra is “In wool we trust”. synthetics or down. More information: www.mover.eu 18 OFF-FARM September 2013 BEYOND THE BALE Promoting wool for interior textiles
In recent months AWI category “The creation of this new collateral, FAST FACTS manager for Interior Textiles, Ingrid including new images, allows for l AWI’s interior textiles program Oomen, has been working alongside relationships to be strengthened and specialises in building demand for AWI’s marketing team to create a host for new ones to form,” Ms Oomen said. wool products in the bedding, carpets of marketing collateral dedicated to this “It is important we have up-to-date and furnishings sectors. increasingly important category. information on hand in this increasingly l New marketing collateral important category and ultimately we highlighting the key benefits of NEW MARKETING COLLATERAL hope to boost the demand of Australian wool in these sectors has been New pieces of collateral have been wool that is of a broader micron. created, as well as funding for created for Woolmark licensees and “This collateral along with AWI’s scientific studies that support their clients, as well as consumers. This presence at high-profile trade shows, marketing statements. includes flyers about the benefits of such as Heimtextil in Germany at the start l The launch of The Wool Lab wool for bedding, carpets and interior of year, ensures that interest in the sector Interiors this year has helped put textiles generally, as well as a guide that continues to grow.” wool in the spotlight particularly explains how to safely clean stains from for high-end furnishings. wool carpets. TRADE SHOWS Presentations on the benefits of wool According to Woolmark licensees that for bedding and carpet have also been attended this year’s influential Heimtextil WI’s interior textiles program created to help AWI staff strengthen key trade show, the demand for wool in the Aspecialises in building demand – from account relationships with manufacturers interiors sector is strengthening despite manufacturers and consumers – for wool and explain the support that AWI can the challenging economic climate. products in the bedding, floor coverings and offer them. Heimtextil is the biggest international furnishing segments of the interiors market. With about 90 per cent of Woolmark’s trade show for home and contract These sectors support the proportion of interior textiles licensees from the textiles. At the show, AWI co-hosted the Australian clip that is broader micron or bedding sector, it is important to the Wool Arena – a focal point for the crossbred wool. generate up-to-date information not industry to promote wool. AWI, along AWI’s interior textiles program aims only about wool’s natural benefits but with Woolmark licensee co-exhibitors, to showcase and inform designers, also report on scientific studies that showcased the superior natural benefits manufacturers, architects, retail staff and support marketing statements about the of wool to visitors. Suppliers, buyers, consumers about the benefits of the use of beneficial aspects of wool for a better designers and retailers along the wool wool in interiors. night’s sleep. pipeline could meet to discuss new, innovative products and technologies.
THE WOOL LAB FOR INTERIORS To help support the market for wool interiors, AWI also this year launched the inaugural edition of The Wool Lab Interiors – a guide to the best wool textiles and the most interesting and innovative applications of wool in the furnishing and interior textile sectors. Since the launch of The Wool Lab Interiors at Milan Design Week in April, the guides have also been exhibited at Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles in August and will this month be shown at Decorex in London. According to Ms Oomen the launch has been a success and AWI’s key account managers are establishing relationships with new clients.
More information: www.woolmark.com/working-with-wool/ Retail staff explain the benefits of Woolmark certified wool bedding products to customers. interiors September 2013 OFF-FARM 19 BEYOND THE BALE
FAST FACTS l This year’s Wool4Skool competition which had a theme of “fit for royalty” attracted a record number of more than 1200 entries from students across Australia. l Wool4Skool offers a complete fashion design experience in the classroom, introducing a new generation of Australians to the versatility and benefits of wool. l The AWI initiative was planned by teachers and textile experts in line with the Years 7 to 10 education curriculum.
f fashion designer Jonathan Ward says Iyour work is good, you know you must be onto a real winner, something that is in fact fit for a royal. And that’s exactly how the leading Australian designer viewed the work of Year 10 student Sophie Aylward. Sophie, from Kinross Wolaroi School, Orange, in the central west of NSW, was this year’s winner of AWI’s Wool4Skool competition with the theme Fit for Royalty. With the expansion into Years 7 and 8, this year’s Wool4Skool competition Wool4Skool Year 10 winner Sophie Aylward from Kinross Wolaroi School, Orange. attracted more than 1200 entries from PHOTO: Steve Gosch, Central Western Daily across Australia, with students taking part in the real-life fashion design experience Mr Ward, who grew up on a property Sophie participated in Wool4Skool as and learning about the versatility and near Tottenham and has been executive part of her Textiles and Design class and potential of Australian Merino wool. designer at R.M. Williams for more than learned about wool’s properties. She said it Planned by teachers and textile experts 10 years, said he was very much looking made her think differently about wool and for the Years 7 to 10 education curriculum, forward to working with the winning design. exposed her to the fibre’s versatility. Wool4Skool offered a rewarding design This entry involved a strong creative “I didn’t know wool could do this. When I experience without students actually having statement about the qualities of wool,” he thought of wool I thought of knitted clothes. to make the garment. Entrants were aided said. “The student had researched the fabric “I worked under the theme ‘The love of by fabric samples and extensive educational and style of garment likely to be worn by Will and Kate’ and my final design is for Kate resources developed in-line with the Design the Duchess of Cambridge, formerly Kate to wear on her two-year wedding anniversary. and Technology curriculum. Middleton. It ticked all the boxes.” “The bodice is made from wool devoré, Content creator and judge for And, according to the lucky winner she which has the pattern of the lace from Wool4Skool 2013, Katrina Wheaton- had indeed carried out extensive research Kate’s wedding dress burnt into the wool. Penniall, said it was encouraging to see before submitting her final entry. The full-length pedal skirt is from finely how many teachers had picked up the “I did lots of research on what kind of woven Merino wool.” competition and embedded it into their clothes the Duchess of Cambridge wore classroom teaching. and what suited her,” Sophie said. “All her More information: “This was evident in the quality of clothes are very elegant and beautiful.” www.wool.com/wool4skool entries that were submitted from a broad range of schools from across the country,” she said. “The standard and variety of 2013 Wool4Skool winners entries was outstanding and I hope everyone enjoyed being involved.” • Year 10: Sophie Aylward, Kinross Wolaroi School, Orange, NSW. Student winners were chosen across • Year 9: Lian Koh, St Andrew’s Cathedral School, Sydney, NSW. each year level and there were finalists • Year 8: Maggie Catalano, Loreto Mandeville Hall, Toorak, Vic. in each state, but it is Sophie’s design • Year 7: Sophie Capoccia, St Dominic's Priory College, which will be brought to life by Jonathan North Adelaide, SA. Ward and feature in a photoshoot in • Teacher winner: Nicole Koinuma from Noosa District State High Girlfriend magazine. School, Noosa, Qld 20 OFF-FARM September 2013 BEYOND THE BALE
COMPASS POINTS TO WOOL
Gilbert Davidson from Roberts Ltd with Nigel Leow from Malaysian-based Compass Wool Processors who was recently on a fact-finding trip to Australia. PHOTO: Australian Broadcasting Corporation Library Sales
aiming to be at full capacity. With Australia being CWP’s major FAST FACTS “Our customers are an integral part of supplier, it makes sense to have someone l A new early-stage wool processing the world supply chain and we will give with a wealth of knowledge about plant has opened in Malaysia, offering them a real option of where they can Australia’s wool industry at the plant’s helm. a “one-stop shop” for customers. process their wool with integrity, quality “I worked in the Australian wool l Compass Wool Processors estimates and service at competitive costing.” industry for about 25 years, from the it will scour about 250,000 bales CWP is a subsidiary of Singapore’s NK shearing shed all the way through to yarns each year, with Australia being the Ingredients, a major buyer of wool grease and fabrics and everything in between," Mr primary supplier. for lanolin, which was having difficulty Bernerius said. "I value the importance of l The opening of the plant is a with a consistent supply of high quality connecting and engaging with Australia’s demonstration of confidence in the wool grease. And so the concept of CWP wool producers at a grassroots level and future of the global wool industry. was born, with the aim of building a high- we have been travelling to Australia every quality wool processing plant that would three to four months to see potential be attractive to the world’s topmakers and customers and partners. hen one thinks of wool and its spinners, and according to Mr Bernerius “We would like to show that we are not Wproduction, Malaysia is generally will act as an alternative to China and India. only processors in Asia, but we are working not the first place that springs into mind. “Logistically, it made sense to set up in with and helping the entire supply chain at But this is about to change, with the Malaysia. It is a central hub for both the origin all levels, helping it develop and grow.” opening of an early-stage processing countries and the consumer countries; there AWI General Manager for Product plant offering a “one-stop shop” for is a stable government, energy and costs; no Development and Commercialisation, scouring, topmaking and shrink resist VAT, duty, customs or quarantine issues; and Jimmy Jackson, recently visited the new treatments. Malaysia’s warm and humid climate is perfect multi-million dollar processing plant on a The opening of Compass Wool for wool processing.” recent trip to South-East Asia, along with Processors (CWP) shows there is By the end of 2014 it is estimated AWI Chairman Wal Merriman and board confidence in the future of the global that 250,000 bales – or 45 million greasy member David Webster. wool industry, and as CWP business kilograms – of wool will be scoured each “It is great to see significant investment manager Stefan Bernerius says, the plant year at CWP. Mr Bernerius estimates that in new factories, which can clean and aims to be an integral part of the supply 60-70 per cent of the wool will come from comb our wool,” Mr Jackson said. “An chain by late-2014. Australia, with the main type being Merino investment like Compass bodes well for “Our first wool bales have already wool of 17.5 to 25 microns. the future of the Australian woolgrowing arrived from Australia and we plan to “We will also plan on processing fine wool industry and cements faith in the efforts of have regular commercial production by of 14 to 17 microns, crossbreeds of about 26 woolgrowers across Australia.” the fourth quarter of 2013,” Mr Bernerius to 32 microns, and carpet wools of a broader said. “By the same time next year we are 34 to 40 microns will also be considered.” More information: www.compasswool.com September 2013 OFF-FARM 21 BEYOND THE BALE Wool: a Turkish delight
who are strong in their field, and AWI Apparel Conference in Istanbul about the FAST FACTS Technical Manager (Dyeing and Finishing) increasing demand for textile innovation and l AWI has increased its resources Brenda Yang visited Turkey to educate the luxury natural fibres such as Merino wool. in Turkey to provide the country’s manufacturers on how to dye and finish More than 800 people heard about a manufacturing industry with support fabric from Merino yarns.” wide range of topics from the economic to develop and promote high quality The result of this technical transfer landscape for manufacturers and brands/ Australian Merino wool products. means there are now six Turkish knitters retailers, to new product innovations, l In particular AWI has been working with enough confidence to offer Merino trend forecasting and beyond, at the to educate the Turkish industry in the wool fabrics in their range, which have been conference hosted by the Turkish Clothing crucial stages of dyeing and finishing tested against Woolmark standards. Manufacturers Association and opened Merino wool. Four flatbed knitters were also targeted, by His Excellency Prime Minister Recep l Wool was also a key feature at with these manufacturers competent in Tayyip Erdogan. this year’s annual Fashion Apparel working with wool, but generally with Mr Akeroyd said the conference Conference hosted by the Turkish machine washable yarn. highlighted just how big a component wool Clothing Manufacturers Association in “We introduced four other AWI is within Alexander McQueen collections, Istanbul. innovations to these flatbed knitters, adding there was great benefit in focusing on Mercerised Merino, Vintage communicating the way the brand innovates Merino, Merino Retract and Sculptured with textiles and luxury fibres such as wool. ith Turkey’s growing domestic Merino. Great success was found with "It’s not only the quality of the garment Wmarket becoming increasingly Mercerised Merino and Merino Retract, make but also what it is made out of that sophisticated and with the country boasting which now allows these knitters to expand makes a point of difference for a brand,” Mr a strong local manufacturing industry, AWI their Merino wool range.” Akeroyd said. has been investing both time and resources So strong is AWI’s belief in the future for "We already use Turkey as a resource in rebuilding the presence of Merino wool Turkey that it recently increased its number for manufacturing, but there is definitely within Turkey. of staff in the AWI Turkey office, headed by more scope and expertise here that we as a Turkey already boasts a relatively strong country manager Mahmut Kocak. business can tap into. It has been interesting manufacturing base – aided by its proximity AWI CEO Stuart McCullough said, "We to see how seriously the fashion and textile to both the east and the west – and so view Turkey as a significant manufacturing industry is taken here, and I am interested AWI has spent the past few years working market with growing importance for in how we can explore this further in closely with Turkish manufacturers. Added retail. We have recently invested in a new the future." to this there is a growing importance office and to grow for retail – with an increasing number of the team in Turkey, international brands exploring Turkey. which is a significant The past year in particular has seen step forward in the wool industry in the country enjoy a providing the Turkish resurgence, with many European retail industry with support markets renewing their interest in sourcing to develop and products from a base closer to home than promote high quality from further afield regions such as Asia. The Australian Merino wool added benefit of this is that both parties on products locally and the supply and demand chain are helping internationally." reduce their carbon footprint. With retail and “Turkey already has an established apparel enjoying such manufacturing base, particularly in the a strong presence in circular knitting sector,” AWI General Turkey, and coinciding Manager for Product Development and with the success of Commercialisation Jimmy Jackson said. “Yet AWI’s technical and their strength lay predominately with cotton innovations transfer, and synthetic fibres. AWI brought together “What this meant for us is that we UK-based Alexander did not need to teach them the basics, McQueen CEO but rather how to apply their skills to Jonathan Akeroyd and AWI brought together Alexander McQueen CEO Jonathan Akeroyd and famed Merino wool – with the crucial part being famed fashion journalist fashion journalist Colin McDowell to speak at the annual Fashion Apparel in the dyeing and finishing stage. We Colin McDowell to talk Conference in Istanbul about the increasing demand for luxury natural fibres have about half a dozen jersey knitters at the annual Fashion such as Merino wool. 22 OFF-FARM September 2013 BEYOND THE BALE
in Australia is something that Ali is very passionate about. Bush heritage “The importance of keeping Jude local is absolutely imperative. Jude’s entire ethos is built around the Australian made element and I am extremely passionate about inspires new label manufacturing in this country. I want Jude to be a brand that champions the simple things, and of course Australian wool and Australian made products.” along with her sister-in-law, ran her own A key motivation behind Jude is to help FAST FACTS hand-spun and hand-made knitwear label reinvigorate the perception of wool, not l Australian knitwear label Jude called Shirbaa from her wool property near only on a level of luxury, but bring it back pays homage to its designer’s bush Tenterfield in northern NSW. into everyday life, and to contribute – if heritage and passion for And so it seems that Ali’s love for only a little – to keeping Australian farmers Australian wool. wool is entrenched firmly in her blood, producing wool. l Woolmark licensee A&B Knitwear with the young designer following in her “I would like woolgrowers and their manufacturers Jude apparel grandmother’s footsteps. families to see Jude products as fresh and in Melbourne. “Jude as a concept has been in the exciting, that are of an outstanding quality l Jude designer and founder Ali works for about six years, ideas ticking and that reflect a modern lifestyle. I would Wanchap has built the brand’s ethos away in the back of my mind,” Ali said. be thrilled if they saw Jude as a deserving around being “Australian Made” “From an early age, I always wanted to representation of their world class fibre. and hopes to bring wool back into design, however my career path to date “And for city people, I would like them everyday life. has led me through the marketing and to see Jude knitwear as a wardrobe staple, public relations sectors. After seven years garments that are modern, yet classic. I in PR I decided to take the plunge and start would love for them to get acquainted with childhood spent exploring the my own creative business – and last year the beautiful quality of Australian wool Afamily farm, of watching her beloved saw me begin to turn my ideas into reality.” and to experience the benefits of it as well. grandmother knit her own collection of Woolmark licensee A&B Knitwear I would love Jude to contribute to bring popular woolly jumpers and developing a manufactures Jude apparel in Melbourne. good quality Australian wool back into true passion for Australian wool has seen Ali Not only does this mean Jude clothes everyday life of all Australians.” Wanchap launch fine knitwear label Jude. can proudly sport the Woolmark logo, Available online, Jude specialises in but the fact that the clothes can be made More information: www.judeaustralia.com women’s and children’s wear as well as home furnishings and evokes a wholesome and idyllic way of life, encompassing Australian heritage throughout the label. The young designer said she had been craving to create high-quality products with Australian wool for years. It is a way she can pay homage to her bush heritage and has been inspired by elements of her family history – with the brand’s products named after people, places and even beloved horses. Even the label’s name Jude has a personal meaning. “Jude is a personal pseudonym of my grandfather, Rex Purvis-Smith,” Ali said. “It is incredible when your greatest inspirations in life have been with you since the day you were born. I have been privileged enough to be surrounded by creative, hard-working people in my family, feet firmly planted in the dirt of the Australian bush. Out of this proud bush heritage has blossomed my great love for wool and has set me on this journey of passion.” Her passion for wool started at a young age, when throughout the 1980s Founder of the Jude knitwear label, Ali Wanchap, wearing the ‘Clarence’ jumper named after her great- she would watch her grandmother who, great-grandfather Clarence Purvis-Smith who was the creator of the horse sport of campdrafting. September 2013 OFF-FARM 23 BEYOND THE BALE
From farm to fashion
Renowned fashion designer Collette Dinnigan at the Australian Sheep and Wool Show with Andrew Davis of Harden, NSW and Peter Lette of Berridale, NSW. PHOTO: The Land.
the country’s finest Merinos – similar to the my recent show in Paris where Australian FAST FACTS ones which produce wool for her garments. wool was prominently used. l Fashion designer Collette Dinnigan Ms Dinnigan has introduced consumers “Wool is so accessible now to people. was guest of honour at this year’s from across the world to the natural What they need to know is how easy it is to Women of Wool “High Tea” event at beauty of Australian Merino wool through wash and it’s not scratchy underwear; you the Australian Sheep and Wool Show her internationally renowned collections. can have great, fine wool. It breathes and in Bendigo, Victoria. Having worked with wool for much of it’s natural.” l More than 200 people packed the her distinguished career, Ms Dinnigan is a AWI’S Runway 101 Kit, which includes event to listen to a question and strong advocate of Australian wool and is wool garments from leading Australian answer segment about Ms Dinnigan’s an AWI ambassador. designers and brands including Alex Perry, career and see garments which she Master of Ceremonies was ABC Central ELLERY, Josh Goot, Ginger & Smart and showed at Paris Fashion Week. Victoria breakfast presenter Jonathan Ridnell camilla and marc was a hit at the Show’s l AWI sponsored the event and also who conducted a question and answer fashion parade. showed its Runway 101 kit which segment with Ms Dinnigan, covering a wide Australian Sheep Breeders Association includes wool garments from leading range of topics, from her time spent on the president Peter Baker said the show was a Australian designers and brands. South Australian Wool Board during the significant event in the industry’s calendar. early-1990s, through to her strong dislike of “It is an exciting event which celebrates wire coat hangers! the very best the industry has to offer. elebrating the women who grow and Ms Dinnigan explained how her passion This year we also honoured executive Cwork with the world’s premium natural for wool stems from her upbringing on the committee member Robyn Russell with fibre, the Women of Wool “High Tea” event at land and of her knowledge of working with a lifetime membership for her role in the 136th Australian Sheep and Wool Show in wool throughout her career. developing the Women of Wool event.” Bendigo was a show highlight. During the event, six Collette Dinnigan Leading Australian fashion designer garments that showed at Paris Fashion Week More information: Collette Dinnigan was guest of honour at the were modelled for the audience. www.collettedinnigan.com.au AWI-sponsored event, speaking to more than “I am very proud to be an ambassador To learn more about Collette Dinnigan’s 200 women about her romance with wool, for Australian Wool Innovation,” Ms Dinnigan romance with wool, visit http://www. before having a meet and greet with some of said. “I was honoured to have its support for woolmark.com/working-with-wool/fashion 242424 September 2013 BEYOND THE BALE YOUNG FARMING CHAMPIONS BRIDGING THE RURAL-URBAN DIVIDE
FAST FACTS l Four hard-working and dedicated young women have been selected by AWI to represent the wool industry as 2013 Young Farming Champions. l The four Young Farming Champions educate their generation about the wool industry and aim to bridge the gap between city and country. l Two advocates have grown up on sheep farms, living and breathing agriculture since they were born; the other two come from the city, but for various reasons have loved and embraced the Australian wool industry.
he wool industry’s Young Farming Champions are Tbreaking the stereotypes of the conventional farmer, as well as helping to bridge the gap between city and regional areas across Australia. Take Jo Newton for example. Growing up in the suburbs of Melbourne she was more often than not surrounded by soy lattes rather than sheep. In fact, it wasn’t until high school that Jo got her first taste of agriculture with her school’s on-campus farm. It was here as a young student she developed her interest in sheep, which led to her eventual tree change. “During school I got some of the best career advice I Jo Newton moved from Melbourne to Armidale to study Rural Science – and hasn’t looked back. have ever received,” Jo said. “I got told to work out what I loved doing and then work out how to turn it into a job.” Jo’s fascination with sheep and the agricultural industry saw her move to Armidale in the New England region of NSW and study Rural Science (with Honours). “To me it made sense to study an ag-related degree at a regional university and I can honestly say moving to Armidale was one of the best decisions I have ever made. I am now undertaking a PhD, looking at some of the factors influencing early reproductive performance in sheep. I love asking questions and I have a desire to keep learning. I hope to pursue a research career in sheep genetics when I finish my studies.” Jo said that upon her move to Armidale there was a host of local graziers who were quick to offer advice and work experience opportunities to a young girl with a thirst for learning as much about sheep as possible. “In particular Tim Bower of ‘Stanley Vale’ taught me how to work sheep in the yards and took me under his wing by showing me what it was like to work on a property. Tim made the decision about 12 months ago – probably after listening to me talk on and on for the past three years – to get into ASBVs (Australian Sheep Breeding Values) for his sheep. Now the shoe’s on the other foot. After spending years learning stuff from Tim, now Tim’s learning from me.” Bessie Blore outside the shearing shed on her 70,000 acre slice of paradise. September 2013 SELLING MOREON-FARM WOOL 25 BEYOND THE BALE
and country.” It is that city-country divide which both Jo and Bessie are so passionate about addressing, and can put the wheels in motion via the Young Farming Champions program. This next generation of wool champions shows the industry that its future remains prosperous and bright. It also allows for city school children to be exposed to regional life – agriculture – in an interactive learning environment. Both Adele Offley and Cassie Baile were born and raised on woolgrowing 2013 Young Farming Champions sponsored by AWI: Jo Newton, Bessie Blore, Adele Offley and Cassie Baile. properties, so whilst they may have had a more traditional entry into As a Young Farming Champion, Jo agriculture because I took a leap of faith and the wool industry, both fully appreciate the is one of four young advocates for the followed my dream of working with sheep. skills and knowledge gap which divides city Australian wool industry. She is joined by If I can inspire school children by telling my and country. Bessie Blore, Adele Offley and Cassie Baile story so far, that would be awesome.” Hailing from the southern tablelands of in a network of young people who share a Fellow Young Farming Champion NSW, Adele’s interest in wool started at a passion about teaching others the pivotal Bessie Blore has a similar story. A journalist young age when she would help out in the role that Australian farmers play in feeding by trade she’s happy to admit she does not shearing shed. and clothing the world. come from a farming background. But five “I learnt more about wool every year Co-sponsored years ago as she sat and with the current skills shortage I by AWI, Young on a bus in Darwin would love to get the word out about the Farming Champions “I HOPE TO INCREASE she probably had many occupations available throughout is a program initiated AWARENESS OF THE no idea her life was all sectors of agriculture,” Adele said. by Art4Agriculture WOOL INDUSTRY IN about the change “I strongly feel we need to educate the which pairs students forever. younger generation, so there is at least SCHOOLS AND MAKE participating in “I sat next to a some level of praise and acknowledgment Art4Agriculture’s PEOPLE STOP AND devilishly handsome for our Australian farmers.” school programs THINK WHERE THEIR man – Shannan As a fifth generation farmer from NSW’s with a young FOOD AND NATURAL – who I ended northern tablelands, Cassie – who now farmer. The young up falling in love works as a wool technical support officer FIBRES ARE FROM.” farmers promote with,” Bessie said. for Elders - says her upbringing fuelled her positive images JO NEWTON “Shannan grew up interest in the many agricultural industries, and perceptions of on 50,000 acres particularly wool, within Australia. farming, providing a pathway to get these of sheep grazing country in far-western “I believe that wool is a very important messages across to their audiences. The NSW where his family still live and work. natural fibre and through education and young farmers demonstrate enthusiasm Eventually, his family bought up a few more spreading awareness, this knowledge of for their industry while providing real life properties and Shannan and I moved to the need to support the wool industry is examples to young people who may have one of them in 2011.” very important,” Cassie said. never considered a career in agriculture. Since then Bessie has embraced all “Educating and involving younger Because they are young they can relate to aspects of living remotely and everything generations to recognise the importance students and are adept at breaking down involved with running a wool and prime of supporting the agricultural industry is stereotypes of farming and agricultural lamb enterprise. She said that coming key to the success and continuation of careers. from a city life meant she had little each field of production.” “I am a real life example that you don’t knowledge about how meat and wool have to live on a farm, or even be from the were actually grown. More information: http://www. country, to get involved in farming,” Jo said. “I now work full-time beside my art4agriculture.com.au/yfc/yfc2013.html “I hope to increase awareness of the husband Shannan on our 70,000 acre slice Bessie Blore hasn’t given up her wool industry in schools and make people of outback paradise and have developed a passion for writing, check out her stop and think where their food and natural huge passion to try and bridge that divide blog ‘Bessie at Burragan’ here: http:// fibres are from. I am living and breathing in a way that relates evenly to both city journobessatburragan.blogspot.com.au/ 262626 ON-FARM September 2013 BEYOND THE BALE
Youngsters take to Twenty20 shearing
Participants and staff at the fully booked training day organised by Riverina TAFE at “Banoon” near Mullengandra.
The “Banoon” training day also a single sheep might not be considered FAST FACTS featured one of Australia’s first female by some to be particularly representative l The inaugural Kinross Woolshed shearing trainers. Andrea Froon from of “shed shearing”, the strong emphasis Shearing Challenge is a new Bunnaloo in the NSW Riverina was very put on quality points – board and pen – competition in which shearers well regarded by participants and has balanced the advantage of speed. had to shear a single crossbred a bright future in shearing training. “You will always get some discussion sheep, and were judged on both Andrea was also one of seven female about the best balance between quality productivity and quality. competitors, three or whom made it and speed, but we think that with a bit l This is a new concept in training through to the semi-finals. of fine tuning this format will give the and benchmarking shearers’ skill The second stage of the training day shearing industry a great way to show off and performance. was the test of new found skills through the its skills to the public,” said training day l The competition was preceded by a competition at the Kinross Woolshed Hotel. host and experienced competition judge training day, supported by AWI, which Having shorn between 80 to 110 Peter Artridge. focused on strong wool sheep. sheep in a day the field of 15 shearers One retired shearer commented: in the Novice category, encouraged by “I cannot believe the shear talent these the TAFE trainers, battled their nerves in young competitors have displayed here ompetitors and spectators flocked to front of a 650 strong enthusiastic crowd, tonight. This unique first time competition Cthe first Kinross Woolshed Shearing in what was for many their first shearing which matched quality with speed shearing Challenge at Albury, NSW in June to watch competition. Yanco Agricultural High one crossbred lamb is a delight to see.” the shearing equivalent of Twenty20 cricket. School student Royce Johnston was the The competitors had to shear a single eventual winner, with Culcairn shearer crossbred sheep, and were judged on Jarrod Heaphey second. both productivity and quality. With 53 The Intermediate shearers brought shearers (7 female) taking part in the a faster pace to the competition, competition, sponsored by AWI, there with locally based Irish shearer Aoidh wouldn’t have been time for them to Doyle dominating the early rounds of shear more than one sheep each anyway! competition. But it was Holbrook shearer Many of the competitors had Sean Galvin shearing his one sheep in just taken part in a training day organised over one minute, one second slower than by Riverina TAFE earlier in the day the Irishman but with pure quality, who at “Banoon” near Mullengandra. The become the Intermediate champion. shearing day, which focused on strong Roger Mifsud and local lad Kaleb wool sheep, was fully booked out. Artridge battled out the Open category. AWI provided six leading trainers for Kaleb shore his finals sheep in 42 the day who delivered training in all key seconds, and with his combined score of facets of crossbred shearing: shearing 63 he became the first Kinross Woolshed techniques, grinding and sharpening, Shearing champion. nutrition/fitness/heath and competition The “single sheep” Twenty20 format judging. AWI also providing funding to is unique in that, like its namesake cricket bring high profile Victorian trainer Roger competition, it attempts to bring the full Mifsud up for the day – a “new face” in entertainment value of the long form of Yanco Agricultural High School student Royce southern NSW and a top notch trainer – the game/profession to spectators in the Johnston, winner of the Novice category at the AWI- who proved to be a huge success. space of a few hours. And whilst shearing sponsored Kinross Woolshed Shearing Challenge. September 2013 SELLING MOREON-FARM WOOL 27 BEYOND THE BALE
Yanco Agricultural High School Shearing Competition
oyce Johnston, winner of the Novice The winners of the competition, Rcategory at the Kinross Woolshed supported by AWI, were John Polsen Shearing Challenge, is a Year 12 student (Novice), Glenn Young (Intermediate) and at Yanco Agricultural High School (YAHS) John Evans (Open). and along with his mother Kerrie was To finalise a great day of participation, instrumental in organising the inaugural Peter Artridge gave a blade shearing YAHS Shearing Competition held in March. demonstration, including a commentary The day began with Peter Artridge – on the history of blade shearing, and then the only shearer known to have represented proceeded to shear a sheep blindfolded – Australia at world championship level in which left the crowd in awe! both blade and mechanical shearing – Opportunity was then given for conducting a judging workshop for all anyone who might not have even held a competitors. While the 27 competitors – handpiece before to come forward and the vast majority being YAHS students – “have a go”. Several youngsters seized had previous shearing experience, most the opportunity and it was very rewarding had never competed in a shearing to see the smiles on their faces as they Sibling rivalry! Royce Johnston's sister and brother, competition before. left the board. Deanna and Bryce, go head to head.
FAST FACTS Increased Shearer and l In the 2012/13 financial year, AWI increased investment in both promotion and recruitment of shearers and wool handlers, as well Wool Handler Training as training, and this was reflected in significant increases in numbers trained at all levels compared to last year. dequate numbers of highly skilled professional l 1571 shearers and 983 wool handlers were trained directly through the Astaff to harvest and handle a high quality AWI shearer and wool handler training program. Australian wool clip in a timely manner are key to the l An additional 786 participants attended crutching and other profitability of the Australian wool industry. introductory workshops, and 1370 high school students received an In 2012/13 AWI funded training for shearers and introduction to wool harvesting. wool handlers across a range of skill development activities. These included from learner to professional SHEARER AND WOOL shearers and from novice to professional wool handlers. 2012/13 2011/12 HANDLER NSW WA VIC SA QLD TAS TOTAL TOTAL Provided by registered training organisations, the TRAINING ACTIVITIES training focused on shearers and wool handlers in the Days 206 85 107 60 30 45 533 442 shed, particularly on increasing their productivity and In-shed shearer skill development. Training was also offered as short coaching Number 599 315 337 178 59 83 1571 1304 term, intensive “schools” across a range of skill levels. trained 1571 shearers and 983 wool handlers were Days 116 35 83 60 29 36 359 338 trained directly through AWI-funded programs In-shed wool across Australia in the 2012/13 financial year, with an handler coaching Number 279 113 321 170 47 53 983 886 additional 786 participants who attended crutching trained and other shearing and woolhandling workshops. Crutching schools; These workshops serve an important role in providing Novice, improver Number of S&WH workshops; 70 89 50 27 20 49 305 125 a range of training services to the wool industry – from schools/ Shearing industry an introduction to wool harvesting and basic skills for days vocational new shearers and wool handlers, through improver to education in advanced and professional workshops for continued schools; Advanced development of wool harvesting professionals. shearing schools; Number In addition to these training numbers, 1370 high Industry funded of 128 327 186 62 24 59 786 422 enrolment attendees school students received an introduction to wool assistance harvesting as a career option through in-school and in-shed demonstrations by AWI-funded trainers. Total training days provided 392 209 240 147 79 130 1197 905 In 2012/13, AWI increased investment in both promotion and recruitment of shearers and wool Total number coached/trained 1006 755* 844 410 130 195 3340 2612 handlers, as well as training and this was reflected in significant increases in numbers trained at all levels. * Plus 1370 school students in WA were provided with an introduction to the wool harvesting industry by AWI-funded coaches through in-shed or at school demonstrations of shearing and More information: www.wool.com/shearertraining woolhandling. 282828 ON-FARM September 20102013 BEYOND THE BALE
FAST FACTS l AWI runs workshops for the trainers of shearers and wool handlers to provide consistency in the way training takes place and to promote best practice across the wool industry. l Wool handler and shearer trainer workshops have been held across the country in the past few months Training for bringing together the very best trainers from across the industry. l Workshops in Katanning, WA and Wagga Wagga, NSW were attended the trainers by more than 100 trainers. Shearer and wool handler trainers at the Wagga Wagga train-the-trainer workshop.
ach year AWI funds training for Workshops have been held in be on the same page to keep those young Eshearers and wool handlers across Katanning, WA and Wagga Wagga, NSW minds and bodies healthy and productive.” a range of skill development activities. in the past few months bringing the very Another issue increasingly discussed In 2012/13, 1571 shearers and 983 wool best trainers from across the industry by woolgrowers is the use of “cover- handlers were trained directly through together to share ideas about how to combs” or “snow combs” which leave AWI-funded programs across Australia, best train those who will be looking after more wool on the sheep. This can have with an additional 786 participants who the national clip for decades to come. significant welfare advantages when attended crutching and other shearing Health, fitness, nutrition, recovery shearing in adverse weather conditions. and woolhandling workshops (see and injury prevention are crucial areas Mr Murray said it was relatively new issues previous page). of training for shearer and wool handler such as this one that were addressed But as with all education, it is trainers and AWI has brought in specialist during the recent train-the-trainer days. important to ensure that the trainers physiotherapists to teach and advise how “There are some tremendous people themselves are applying their skills to best approach these areas. training wool handlers and shearers effectively. Consequently, AWI runs AWI Shearing Industry Development across the country. Many are the best training sessions for wool handler and Co-ordinator Jim Murray said there are in their field and we are lucky they have shearer trainers across the country to plenty of young people keen to enter such a strong commitment to handing on standardise the way training takes place the industry but providing consistency in their expertise. Sharing knowledge has and to promote best practice across the this type of training across the country always been one of the great aspects of wool industry. is vital to maintain and strengthen its this part of the wool industry.” professionalism. Jim The national wool handler and shearer likens shearer and trainer workshops had over 100 trainers woolhandler trainers attend, and each of the trainers agreed that to trainers of high they would like to see the profile of people performance athletes. working in the industry lifted and highlighted. “Shearers use as The skills of our top shearers is slowly much energy in a day as becoming more recognised with statues a marathon runner and of our two time world champion Shannon do so day-in and day- Warnest gracing a number of airports out,” Jim said. “A young around Australia, and some great stories person today could be about the physical endurance of multiple in a shed at Esperance world record holder Dwayne Black (WA) this week, Burra featured in international magazines. There (SA) next month and is also some great work being done in this then head to Tasmania or area at a number of the major agricultural even overseas not long events and shows around Australia by a lot after that. While travel of the coaches. and income have always “An area of concern and one which been great strengths of trainers feel deserves greater promotion is the industry, that same the highly skilled and professional nature person may be getting of our wool handlers. These highly skilled different advice on fitness people working either on their own or in AWI’s Jim Murray (right) and injury prevention a team have the ability to significantly training in best practice at each place so it’s increase woolgrowers’ profits when given shearing technique. important for us all to the opportunity,” Jim added. DEAD FAST. DEAD EASY.
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