SAKS PROFITS JUMP/2 A HIGH-ANXIETY HOLIDAY/10 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • WEDNESDAYThe Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • November 21, 2007 • $2.00 Sportswear

Easy Day Out

Calling all Jane Birkin fans. Her effortlessly casual French style is back for spring, with designers showing soft looks with a touch of the bohemian. Here, Ya Ya Afl alo’s linen wrap and from Converse by John Varvatos; Minnetonka moccasins. For more, see pages 4 and 5. STYLED BY MONICA SCHWEIGER STYLED BY

Jones to Shutter Toledo-Designed Anne Klein Collection By Marc Karimzadeh the plug on the collection after just which launched the designer NEW YORK — Jones Apparel Group is two seasons to focus on growing collection with much fanfare in saying goodbye to the Anne Klein the bridge Anne Klein New York February for fall retailing. While designer collection and its creative and better-priced AK Anne Klein the upscale line was never viewed director, Isabel Toledo. collections. as a volume business for Jones, On Tuesday, the apparel The move signals a major it nevertheless promised to set conglomerate said it was pulling reversal of strategy for Jones, See Jones, Page 12 PHOTO BY JOSIE MINER; MODEL: ALISSA/WILHELMINA; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY ROBIN GLASER/CELESTINE; FASHION ASSISTANT: VICTORIA COLLINS; JOSIE MINER; MODEL: ALISSA/WILHELMINA; ASSISTANT: PHOTO BY ROBIN GLASER/CELESTINE; FASHION HAIR AND MAKEUP BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 WWD.COM Saks Profi ts Rise Sharply WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear By Arthur Zaczkiewicz especially [in] what we would call our ‘good zone.’ Remember, aks Inc. posted robust third- we are always thinking in lux- FASHION Squarter earnings on strong ury terms, but we’ve looked at same-store sales, with officials it from good, better, best luxury In a nod to the Seventies, sun-faded, high-waisted denim and natural confident in a healthy luxury sec- price points. And I think that you 4 beachy separates are keeping things mellow this spring. tor for the fourth quarter but, at are seeing more pressure on that the same time, acknowledging a aspirational luxury consumer GENERAL “challenging macroenvironment.” — that would be our bridge price Jones Apparel Group Inc. is pulling the plug on its Anne Klein designer During the quarter, prof- points. Our entry price points is 1 collection after two seasons and will focus on bridge and better lines. its more than tripled as sales where you are seeing more of soared 14.2 percent. Results the pressure while the higher- Saks Inc. posted robust third-quarter earnings on strong same-store were driven by an 11.4 percent end luxury price points have not 2 sales, but said gross margins were fl at due to markdowns. same-store sales increase in seen a slowdown.” Giorgio Armani and Julia Roberts have joined to design a special Emporio the quarter. The bottom line Sadove said that overall, the 2 Armani (Product) Red bracelet to be sold online starting Dec. 1. also was bolstered by the fact company feels “quite good about that the retailer did not record where the fourth quarter is, but MAINSTREAM: Abbey Doneger, president of The Doneger Group, cut the a loss from discontinued opera- clearly you’ve seen some more 6 ribbon on the Henry Doneger Computer Lab at FIT, named for his father. tions — as it did in the previous price competition at the lower More than 1,000 employees of the H&M chain have won the right to be year. Gross margins, however, end of that spectrum.” 9 represented by the Retail, Wholesale & Department Store Union. were flat due to markdowns. The ceo said that, during the Management noted that its on- quarter, Saks “began to experi- The mood heading into Black Friday is grim, with stores forecasting soft line business realized a 40 per- ence a more promotional and 10 holiday sales and weak profi ts based on macroeconomic woes. cent year-over-year gain. challenging macroeconomic WEST We are always thinking in luxury terms, but we’ve looked at it Retailers in cities from Los Angeles and San Francisco to Scottsdale, Ariz., from“ good, better, best luxury price points. And I think that you 11 and Las Vegas are nervously anticipating the holiday season. International Trade Shows is included as a Section II in this issue. are seeing more pressure on that aspirational luxury consumer.” Classifi ed Advertisements...... 13-15 — Stephen I. Sadove, Saks Inc. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. [email protected], using the individual’s name. For the quarter ended Nov. 3, environment. And this environ- business “continues to substan- net income rose to $21.6 million, ment results in some modest tially outpace the company av- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT or 14 cents a diluted share, from downward pressure on our mer- erage, posting another approxi- ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. $6.2 million, or 5 cents, in the chandised margins, particularly mate 40 percent increase during VOLUME 194, NO. 110. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one prior year on sales that climbed to in the women’s bridge apparel the third quarter.” additional issue in January and December, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October and, November, $796.1 million from $697 million. area. In addition, while our key For the fourth quarter, the and three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by During a conference call with promotional events, such as ceo said the retailer expects to Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive analysts, management cautioned Friends & Family and Electronic “have a record-breaking quar- Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human that the aspirational — or bridge Gift Card events, were essential- ter in the direct business and Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail — shopper, who buys luxury ly the same year-over-year, our to continue to drive outsized Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return goods at opening price points, customers shifted more of their growth in 2008 and beyond.” undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: is pulling back. Late last month, spending to these events, caus- During the third quarter, SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE Coach Inc., which serves the as- ing some additional pressure on Sadove said performers in the INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit pirational shopper, warned of merchandised margins.” company were handbags, wom- www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new slowed retail traffi c while Polo Management said the decline en’s shoes and jewelry as well as subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Ralph Lauren Corp. lowered was offset by the positive impact men’s apparel, accessories and correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, its earnings outlook earlier this of unredeemed gift cards, which shoes. “We generated solid per- please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other month for similar reasons. helped keep gross margins fl at formance across all geographies Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. Stephen I. Sadove, chairman year-over-year. and store sizes,” Sadove said in a If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA and chief executive offi cer, said Sadove said the company is statement. “Our strong sales per- 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, results indicate “that our cus- well positioned for the holiday formance was achieved in spite OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, tomers are continuing to respond selling season, and he expects an of disruption associated with sev- BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED to our strengthened merchandise operating margin for the year to eral major remodeling projects, MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR selections, service initiatives and be 4 percent. “Our expectation is including our South Coast Plaza CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY innovative marketing.” that we can generate high-single- store in Los Angeles and our A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. During the call, one analyst digit comp-store sales growth in Palm Beach Gardens and Naples asked Sadove to offer specif- the fourth quarter on top of last stores in Florida. Our New York ics in regard to the challenges year’s fourth-quarter comp in- City fl agship location once again ahead. crease of 9.9 percent, but we may outperformed the company aver- “I think that the environment experience some modest decline age and was the benefi ciary of in- is getting tougher out there — I in gross margin rates for the pe- creased store traffi c driven in part In Brief still think that the luxury sec- riod,” he added. by the opening of 10022-SHOE and tor is very healthy,” Sadove ex- Saks’ online business per- robust tourism [even though the plained. “I think that the consum- formed well during the quarter. eighth fl oor was closed for reno- ● WORLD ECONOMY SEEN SLOWING: The global economy er is clearly seeing some impact, Sadove said the Saks Direct vation part of the quarter].” is projected to lose momentum in the final quarter of this year in all regions, a survey from the International Chamber of Commerce and IFO Institute said. The study, which polled 1,020 economists in 90 countries, said predictions for the com- Julia Roberts, Armani Team for (Product) Red ing six months are also “significantly revised downwards.” The survey noted that the Global Economic Climate Index fell in MILAN — Giorgio Armani and women, which will also be a vis- the fourth quarter to 99.3, down sharply from 113.6 in the previ- his buddy Julia Roberts have ible reminder of the part that ous quarter. joined to design a special we can play in fi ghting AIDS in Emporio Armani (Product) Red Africa,” Armani said. ● BUYING BRINKHAUS: Montreal’s Birks & Mayors has ac- bracelet that will be sold online Red is a global initiative quired the assets of luxury jeweler Brinkhaus, based in at emporioarmani.com starting aimed at engaging individuals in Vancouver. The acquisition includes Brinkhaus stores in on World AIDS Day, Dec. 1. the fi ght against AIDS in Africa Calgary and Vancouver, which will continue to operate under In mid-December, distribu- by channeling funds from the the Brinkhaus name. Terms were not disclosed. Brinkhaus will tion will be extended to Emporio sale of (Product) Red items to maintain its manufacturing facility in Vancouver, providing ser- Armani stores worldwide, fol- The Global Fund To Fight AIDS, vice exclusively to Birks & Mayors for at least three years, after lowed by select department stores Tuberculosis and Malaria. which Birks intends to acquire the operation. Privately owned and jewelry shops on Feb. 1. Armani was a launch partner in Brinkhaus had estimated sales of about $14 million. The for- The Bohemian-style leath- the (Product) Red project, an ini- mer owners, Norbert and Kim Brinkhaus, will continue to op- er bracelet comes in red and tiative masterminded by U2’s Bono erate the stores. Birks & Mayors operates 38 Birks stores across brown, for women and men re- and Bobby Shriver in 2006. Since Canada and 31 Mayors stores in Florida and Georgia. spectively, and features a sym- then, the designer has created spe- bolic tree-of-life imprint. Etched cifi c clothes, accessories, eyewear, within the foliage are the words The men’s and women’s bracelets. watches, fragrances and jewelry Revolution-Evolution-Devotion, are sterling silver. The women’s for the project, with 40 percent of the acronym for Red. version retails for $175 and the the gross profi t margin from sales Correction The inner part is personalized men’s model will sell for $195. going to The Global Fund to help The name of the Pursuit of Harmony line was incorrect in a story with J.R. for Emporio Armani “Julia has helped create a combat AIDS in Africa. on page 6, Wednesday. (Product) Red, and the clasps beautiful accessory for men and — Alessandra Ilari WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 3 WWD.COM Target, Limited Falter as Retail Slumps By Jeanine Poggi percent to $1.63 billion from $1.72 billion last year, while same-store sales dropped 6 percent. Dillard’s also an- head of the holiday season, retailers reported disap- nounced a new $200 million repurchase program. The A pointing earnings on Tuesday, hurt by unseasonable company said it bought back $111.6 million worth of weather and economic uncertainty. shares during the third quarter. The stock rose 5.4 per- The only bright spot came from off-price retailer cent, closing at $17.43. Ross Stores Inc., who saw an 11 percent jump in third- Stage Stores Inc. reported a 12.5 percent drop in quarter earnings. third-quarter earnings. For the three months ended Nov. Discounter Target Corp. reported a 4.5 percent drop 3, income fell to $2.4 million, or 6 cents a diluted share, in third-quarter earnings to $483 million, or 56 cents a di- from $2.8 million, or 6 cents, in the year prior. Sales rose luted share, from $506 million, or 59 cents, in last year’s slightly to $355.1 million from $353.3 million. Same-store period. Sales rose 9 percent to $14.34 billion from $13.16 sales decreased 1 percent. billion. Total same-store sales increased 3.7 percent. “One of the consequences of the persistently warm “Our third-quarter earnings were disappointing due weather was a reduction in the demand for our higher- to softer sales in our higher-margin categories, leading priced fall and winter goods, which resulted in an un- to lower-than-expected gross margin in our core retail favorable merchandise sales mix for the quarter,” Jim operations,” said Bob Ulrich, chairman and chief execu- Scarborough, chairman and ceo, said in a statement. tive offi cer, in a statement. The company said the cosmetics, plus-size and - Separately, the company announced a $10 billion es categories were its strongest performers. share repurchase program, which prompted Fitch Stage Stores expects fourth-quarter earnings in the Ratings to downgrade the company on the announce- range of 80 cents to 85 cents a diluted share, and full-year ment. The ratings firm cut earnings around $1.28 to $1.33 a Target’s rating to “A” from “A+” diluted share. The stock closed — concerned that Target will fi - up to $16.48, a 4 percent jump. nance the repurchase program Jewelry retailer Zales Corp. with debt. widened its loss in the first Target’s shares took a hit, quarter, hurt by warranty adjust- dropping 4.1 percent to close at ments. $51.69. For the three months ended Limited Inc.’s earnings Oct. 31, the company posted a plummeted almost 50 percent in loss of $28.4 million, or 58 cents the third quarter. For the three a diluted share, which compares months ended Nov. 3, earnings with a loss of $26.4 million, or 55 fell to $12.1 million, or 3 cents a cents, last year. Sales declined diluted share, from $23.5 million, 1.3 percent to $377 million from or 6 cents, in the year prior. $382 million, while same-store Sales dropped 9 percent to sales fell 0.4 percent. $1.92 billion from $2.11 billion The company expects full- Teen retailer Pacifi c Sunwear of California Inc. re- and same-store sales declined year earnings in the range of 86 ported a loss of $20 million, or 29 cents a diluted share, 3 percent. cents to 91 cents a diluted share. in the third quarter, compared with a profi t of $9 mil- The company also announced Shares fell slightly, 1 percent, lion, or 13 cents, in 2006. Results include $31 million af- an additional $250 million share closing at $19.74. tertax charges associated with store asset impairments repurchase program. During the Specialty apparel retailer and inventory reserves at demo stores. quarter Limited bought back New York & Company Inc. re- Sales dropped to $373.1 million from $375.4 million, 14.6 million shares of stock for ported a loss in the third quar- while same-store sales grew 5 percent. By division, $336 million. ter of $16 million, or 27 cents a comps increased 7.7 percent at PacSun and fell 18.3 The women’s apparel retail- diluted share, which compares percent at demo. er slashed fourth-quarter guid- with a gain of $9.6 million, or 16 The company expects fourth-quarter earnings in the ance to the range of 90 cents cents, in the year prior. range of 26 cents to 29 cents a diluted share. Shares of to $1.05 a diluted share from Results include charges of the skate- and surf-inspired retailer were up 0.2 percent previous guidance of $1.18 a di- $21.1 million, or 36 cents a dilut- to $14.15. luted share. ed share, related to the JasmineSola chain exit. For the three months ended Nov. 3, Ross Stores Shares of the company closed down 0.1 percent Sales jumped 6 percent to $287 million from $270.9 posted earnings that reached $48.7 million, or 36 cents to $17.53, but rebounded 0.2 percent in after-market million, while same-store sales fell 4.8 percent. a diluted share, from $43.9 million, or 31 cents, in the trading. Richard P. Crystal, chairman and ceo, said the com- year-ago period. Sales climbed 9 percent to $1.47 bil- Dillard’s Inc. swung to a loss in the third quarter, hurt pany has seen success in the pant, dress, skirt, lion from $1.36 billion, while same-store sales were up by declining sales and gross margins. and sweater categories, and expects its bath and body 1 percent. For the three months ended Nov. 3, the company launch to get off to a good start. The company attributed its success to strong sales in reported a loss of $11.3 million, or 15 cents a diluted For fourth quarter, the company forecasts earnings its , home and shoes categories. share, from a profi t of $13.6 million, or 17 cents, in the in the range of 9 cents to 21 cents a diluted share and Full-year earnings are expected to be in the range of year-ago period. Results included a gain of $11.1 mil- for the full-year expects between a loss of 10 cents to a $1.83 to $1.89 a diluted share and fourth-quarter earn- lion related to hurricane recovery of a store damaged profi t of 3 cents a diluted share. New York & Co. shares ings between 62 cents and 68 cents a diluted share. by Hurricane Rita in 2005. Sales for the quarter fell 5 plummeted 10.8 percent, closing at $6.54. Shares of Ross Stores closed up 3 percent to $25.75. Agnès b. Brings Edgy Style to ‘Golden Triangle’ in Paris Sears Mulling Acquisition PARIS — Agnès b., the Gallic rock-edged sportswear try on pieces at their own pace,” said Trouble, adding , has arrived in Paris’ “Golden Triangle,” the up- that one-off pieces would be made for the room. Of Restoration Hardware scale shopping district between the Champs-Elysées A book area with headphone listening posts will be and the Seine river. added, featuring a selection of works handpicked by ears Holdings Corp. said it bought about a 13.7 Located at 38 Avenue George V, a street that’s home the designer. Spercent stake in Restoration Hardware Inc. and to Hermès, Balenciaga and Gianfranco Ferré, the new — Katya Foreman is considering acquiring the company, according to 6,500-square-foot street-level bou- a Securities and Exchange Commission filing late tique is a step up from the brand’s The new agnès b. store. on Monday. iconic first store, opened in the Sears said in the fi ling that it paid $30.2 million Eighties on the hip Rue du Jour. The cash to acquire 5.3 million shares of the hardware store’s airy, no-fuss interior has white specialty retailer. walls, wooden fl oorboards and white- The announcement came only two weeks after coated Baroque mirrors. The brand’s Restoration Hardware agreed to be taken private men’s, women’s and baby lines are on for $267 million. display, as well as accessories. Sears Holdings, which owns Kmart and Sears, Personal touches by designer said it “intends to evaluate [Restoration Hardware] Agnès Trouble include the store’s and the desirability of proposing an acquisition.” playlist, rotating artworks from her The company also said it might make a tender offer personal collection and giant photo- for all or some of Restoration’s shares or purchase graphic wall posters, including one shares on the open market, seek representation on of a cloudy sky at sunset taken by the board or look to acquire or infl uence control. Trouble. In July, WWD reported there was speculation that The designer also has installed a Edward Lampert, chairman of Sears Holdings and boudoir-esque eveningwear salon, founder of ESL Investments, which bailed Kmart featuring a Bordeaux and camel Holding Corp. out of bankruptcy and later facilitated decor with battered club couches. the merger between Kmart and Sears, Roebuck and “I wanted to create a warm, in- Co., was trolling for acquisition targets. timate space, where customers can — J.P. PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007

Wash Day In a nod to the Seventies, sun-faded, high-waisted denim J Brand’s cotton and Lycra spandex jeans and beachy tops and Michael Stars’ are keeping things polyester and rayon top. Scala hat. m e l l o w t h i s s p r i n g . — Monica Schweiger WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 5 WWD.COM

Guess’ stretch cotton jeans and Viridis Luxe’s bamboo, cashmere and silk top. Bare necklace; Bernardo sandals.

J&Company’s cotton and Lycra , James Perse’s silk and cotton tank. Minnetonka boots.

Jainesse’s cotton stretch overalls and Rag & Bone’s cotton shirt. Gara Danielle bracelet.

Cotton and elastane jeans from Seven For All Mankind and Joie’s cotton and elastane T-shirt. PHOTOS BY JOSIE MINER; MODEL: ALISSA/WILHELMINA; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY ROBIN GLASER/CELESTINE; FASHION ASSISTANT: VICTORIA COLLINS JOSIE MINER; MODEL: ALISSA/WILHELMINA; ASSISTANT: PHOTOS BY ROBIN GLASER/CELESTINE; FASHION HAIR AND MAKEUP BY 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 WWD.COM In the Mainstream Henry Doneger Lab H&M Forges Ties With Marimekko Dedicated at FIT By Robert Murphy PARIS — Hennes & Mauritz is weaving another col- By Lisa Lockwood laboration. The Swedish fast-fashion behemoth, which has NEW YORK — Abbey Doneger, presi- teamed with Roberto Cavalli, Karl Lagerfeld and Stella dent of The Doneger Group, the global McCartney for one-off fashion collections, said Tuesday fashion merchandising consulting firm that it would use vintage prints from Finnish textile here, cut the ribbon Monday night on fi rm Marimekko for a special capsule collection arriv- the new Henry Doneger Computer Lab ing in stores in 28 countries next April. at the Fashion Institute of Technology. “Our design team has long admired Marimekko’s Named in memory of his father, vivid prints and colors,” said H&M head of design Henry Doneger, founder and chair- Margareta van den Bosch. “The [collection] will be joy- man of the fi rm, the computer lab is fully fresh — like a vitamin injection.” furnished with 25 state-of-the-art Dell H&M said the collection would employ popular computers, used by students major- Marimekko patterns from the Fifties through the ing in FIT’s Fashion Merchandising Seventies, spanning some 50 men’s and women’s looks, Management courses. including tunics, skirts, and shorts. There will be Surrounded by friends, family and children’s items and accessories, as well. colleagues such as FIT president “I see great value in our collaboration,” said Kirsti

Joyce Brown, John Pomerantz, Gilbert Paakkanen, president of Marimekko. “I believe that it MOA LINDQVIST BARTLING BY ILLUSTRATION Harrison, Allan Ellinger and James will enhance Marimekko’s international recognition An illustration of the H&M collection using Marimekko prints Ammeen, Doneger spoke about the among young and fashion-conscious consumers.” “amazing work” FIT has done in edu- H&M’s past collaborations have been great successes, help- operates 24 shops in Finland and one each in Germany and cating people in the fashion industry. ing generate traffi c and sales. They have also been major mar- Sweden. He recalled when he joined his fa- keting vehicles, building H&M’s visibility around the world. This month, the company turned a page, announcing that ther’s buying offi ce in 1973, he was im- In addition to tie-ups with high-fashion names, H&M has Paakkanen would step down in February after 16 years. mediately introduced to FIT and started designed collections with celebrities such as Madonna and She is to be replaced by Mika Ihamuotila, who will become getting involved. “It has been a very spe- Kylie Minogue. the company’s main shareholder, with a 20 percent stake. cial place for me and my family,” said Marimekko, based in Helsinki, is known for its colorful Ihamuotila has plans to build the company’s international Doneger, whose father died in 1995. prints and textiles for and interior decoration. It distribution network. Doneger described his father as “a very strong personality” and when the elder Doneger believed in something, he moved full-steam ahead. “And he believed in FIT and in helping and supporting young people, and being Giadrossi Brings Modern Edge to Ramosport PARIS — With a new owner and a new designer, Ramosport, Bags are in the pipeline for next year. the French outerwear company known for its chic utilitar- Now, with a fi rm grasp on the rudder, Giadrossi is pre- ian aesthetic, is looking to the future. paring to beef up the fi rm’s retail Web site and also wants Last year, Nicoletta Giadrossi, a former consultant and to bolster wholesale business in promising markets like the private equity investor, purchased a majority stake in the United States and China. company, which had been family owned since its founding “We’ve just scraped the surface so far in Asia and in the in 1905. U.S.,” she said. Though the business had earned success with designs Giadrossi said Ramosport has revenues of about 10 mil- by Jean Colonna, the Paris designer known for his down- lion euros, or $14.7 million at current exchange. While she town edge, Giadrossi bid him adieu as artistic director. She wants to grow the brand incrementally so as to preserve its tapped Silvia Gavina, an Italian who has niche status, she said there are plenty of worked with the likes of Gianfranco Ferré, A look from opportunities. Kiton and Valextra, last July to bring a Ramosport. “There had been some inertia at the fresh perspective to the brand. company,” she said. “They were trying to PHOTO BY KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN KRISTEN SOMODY PHOTO BY “She’s gone into the archives,” said fi gure out a succession plan so a lot of de- Gilbert Harrison, Abbey Doneger, Giadrossi, who explained she wanted to cisions were left untaken. The last shop Joyce Brown and John Pomerantz. bring back some of the brand’s vintage styles the company opened was in 2001. I want to as philanthropic and supportive as he and temper them with a modern edge. shake things up a bit. Now I want to move could be for causes he was involved Meantime, Giadrossi, a Harvard alum- into new markets very quickly.” in.” He said his father was also pas- na, cemented the house’s several-seasons- To that end, a shop in Beijing is sched- sionate about FIT students, many of long collaboration with Paris label E2, uled to open in December. Giadrossi said whom were interns at The Doneger asking them to further contribute a small a store in the U.S. was a priority and that Group, and worked there after graduat- capsule line. She said she would like to a unit in Europe within the next couple of ing. “Not only have we given back, but forge other ties by getting other designers years is also being explored. FIT has given so much to my company to collaborate, too. This June, Ramosport opened its third shop as well,” he said. Expanding product categories has been in Paris, a unit on the Rue Saint-Honoré. Doneger said his father would fi nd it another of her priorities. This year, for ex- “There is more room to expand,” she amusing that FIT was naming “a com- ample, she launched Ramosport’s fi rst men’s said. “We are a small company of 30 peo- puter lab” after him. “Maybe a mer- collection and added new women’s accesso- ple. But Ramosport has global potential.” chandising room, or a buying room, or ries, including scarves, hats and umbrellas. — R.M. a negotiating room,” he quipped. “My father was old-fashioned, yet very mod- ern. At our company, we try to stick to the basics and move forward with a modern twist.” In addition to allocating funds to Christie’s and A|X Armani Rock On the computer lab, The Doneger Group is endowing five annual full-tuition NEW YORK — As the sounds of the Sixties as a springboard, accenting them with ar- scholarships. and Seventies pulsed through the James A Led chival and current-season pieces to create Brown acknowledged the Doneger Christie Room at Christie’s, the famed Zeppelin characters. There were hippies, truck- family’s contribution. “They have been auction house played host Friday night to T-shirt. ers, Black Panthers, tennis players and a vital part of FIT,” she said. “Henry a fashion show to kick off the buildup to its even a fl ashy pimp daddy sporting Britney Doneger was an industry visionary and Nov. 30 Rock and Pop Memorabilia sale. Spears’ fake-fur and feathered stage coat. he understood the importance of edu- On the block is a collection of more “It was a great mix of old and new,” said cation to the future of fashion.” than 70 vintage T-shirts that were ob- A|X Armani Exchange president Harlan Brown added that Abbey Doneger tained primarily from private consignors Bratcher. has continued the involvement, and has and the vintage store What Comes Around Viewings at Christie’s Rockefeller been a constant presence at FIT, serv- Goes Around, which published a book on Galleries will be held Nov. 26-29. ing as vice president of the Educational the subject this year. On the runway — a Estimates predict the Ts will fetch from Foundation for the Fashion Industries, selection of greatest hits including a 1973 $500,000 to $700,000, and with good rea- the advisory and fund-raising body. Led Zeppelin tour T; a primitively screen- son, noted Toby Usnik, Christie’s interna- In November 2006, The Doneger printed Woodstock Music and Art Fair V- tional head of corporate communications. Group celebrated its 60th anniversary neck, circa 1969, and a John Lennon and “These items are from a time before mass by raising $700,000 to benefi t the Henry Yoko Ono “Double Fantasy” promotion merchandising existed, when concert and Doneger Scholarship Fund at FIT, and shirt, circa 1980. band T-shirts were made just for roadies the Henry Doneger Computer Lab is A|X Armani Exchange and its team and friends.”

named in recognition of that support. used the T-shirts and other auction items CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY — Kim Friday bu y. sell. network.

Buyers meet sellers. Sellers meet buyers. And for four days, 120,000 fashion industry professionals will meet at MAGIC to advance the business of fashion. Join us.

WWDMAGIC This is your moment to shine.

February 12 – 15, 2008 Tuesday – Friday Las Vegas Convention Center and Las Vegas Hilton www.MAGIConline.com 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 WWD.COM

A STICKY WEB: Designers may be Anne Hathaway Chicago Nov. 14. In town to christen all for expanding their presence on her new Gold Coast store, Burch said the Internet, but the Web can be a the dickie from her fall collection Fashion Scoops double-edged sword. On Tuesday, sold out so she couldn’t fi nd one for several newspapers ran herself until spying one at Neiman’s. DEACON AND DIEGO?: It’s no secret ELA, for sufferers of the brain an image taken from Facebook of It’s been that kind of moment for that Gilles Deacon has been on disorder leukodystrophy. The event, Giorgio Armani posing with Guede the designer, who said many of her Diego Della Valle’s radar for months held at the Fnac music store on Rudy Hermann, a 20-year-old student freestanding stores are experiencing now. First, industry sources said Rue de Rennes, was sponsored by from the Ivory Coast. Hermann was brisk sales, most notably those in the Italian owner of the Tod’s, PPR and attended by group honcho arrested in Germany this week after Chicago and Dallas, where some Hogan and Fay labels wanted the François-Henri Pinault and YSL boss the murder this month of British customers asked her to sign their British designer for his Schiaparelli Valerie Hermann. “I’d never seen student Meredith Kercher in Perugia, Reva ballet fl ats and handbags. Collection. Now, it seems, Della Italy. He is the fourth suspect to Then Monday night, Burch greeted Valle has other designs on Deacon. be arrested. Hermann had posted nearly 300 women who fi lled her According to an industry source, the shot of himself with Armani, Bal Harbour shop in Florida (Burch Della Valle is talking with Deacon taken outside the Armani/Nobu Bar waited until now to visit so as to avoid about designing Fay, his clothing in Milan, on his Facebook page. In hurricane season). She’ll be back label famous for its snazzy response, the Giorgio Armani press home in New York for Thanksgiving weatherproof overcoats, offi ce issued a statement saying: STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY and won’t hit the open highway — or and blazers. Although Deacon’s “The photo from Facebook.com by Rick and Ryan Zeeb — the airspace — again until mid-February collections, which show in London, depicting Mr. Giorgio Armani with inspiration for the store’s 2007 when she opens a store in Las Vegas. usually have a couture bent, the Mr. Guede Rudy Hermann was taken holiday windows. “Can we all use “Women are relating to me on a lot of designer is also known for turning as a tourist photo at Mr. Hermann’s our most quiet voices?” Hathaway levels,” Burch said, noting mothers his hand to tailored clothing. He is request. Obviously, Mr. Armani has pleaded with the junior members of ask about how she started a new a consultant for the British tailored never known Mr. Hermann.” the audience — to little avail. career after kids. “They think it’s too clothing label Daks. A Della Valle late. I say, ‘It’s never too late.’ I look spokeswoman declined comment TIS THE SEASON: “Who knew Santa BON VOYAGE, FOREVER: The London at myself as a late bloomer.” and Deacon was traveling and could was a woman?” a Carolina Herrera- clothing label Voyage is no more, not be reached. clad Marlo Thomas asked the crowd and its founders have moved on. DOILLON’S DENIM: Lou Doillon swished Monday Night at the Saks Fifth The Voyage store on Conduit Street into London club Maya Thursday MOVING PICTURES: Fashion snapper Avenue holiday windows unveiling. in London, which opened in 2003, night to host a party to fete the Peter Lindbergh is preparing for Herrera, along with Josie Natori and closed a month ago. This week, launch of her denim collection, Lou the screening of his fi rst fi lm, Nanette Lepore, fi led into bleachers Louise Michielsens, who founded Doillon by Le Cooper. And sporting a “Everywhere at Once,” at the outside Rockefeller Center for the Voyage with her ex-husband Tiziano silk top hat with a pair of ultra-high- Tribeca Film Festival in February. annual festivities, which included an Mazzilli, opened Year Zero, a new waisted denim shorts from her line The fl ick features 3,000 stills from Linda Hardy (top) and Mareva Galanter LED light show and a performance by label with its own store at 37 Beak — which also includes skinny denim Lindbergh’s photo archive spliced (above) shot by Peter Lindbergh. American Ballet Theater dancers. An Street in London. The new label is jackets and faded denim overalls with excerpts from Tony Richardson’s hour before the outdoor celebration, Michielsens’ fi rst solo effort, and — she cut a conspicuously stylish “Mademoiselle,” starring Jeanne a Miss France before, but I was Heather Mnuchin, Marjorie Gubelmann she’s being assisted by her son fi gure on the dance fl oor. But she was Moreau. The Grande Dame also positively surprised,” said Lindbergh, and Christina Cuomo arrived (kiddies Rocky Mazzilli. It’s pitched at a lower keen to point Lou provides the voice-over narrative. surrounded by a gaggle of the former in tow) at the Charbonnel et Walker price than Voyage — prices start at out she wasn’t Doillon Lindbergh spoke about the project beauty queens. Meanwhile, Mario chocolate cafe on the top fl oor of the about 35 pounds, or $72 — and just a walking in Paris Monday night at a party to Sorrenti has done his own calendar department store. Anne Hathaway and sells items including silk-screen billboard. unveil a Miss France photo calendar for French Vogue, in partnership with Lorraine Bracco treated pint-size party T-shirts and hooded sweatshirts “This is just for he lensed in aid of French charity Chanel fi ne jewelry. guests to a reading of “Snowpeople” adorned with Swarovski crystals. “It’s me,” she said for a new, younger generation of of her choice clients,” Mazzilli said. Meanwhile, of headgear. the former Conduit Street shop “You can’t buy has a sign in the window from it, but I asked bailiffs claiming 55,000 pounds, or them to make $113,000, in unpaid rent. Mazzilli it for me for declined to comment. the collection.” Doillon, who’s MOURET TAKES SELFRIDGES: Roland the daughter of Mouret’s debut collection under Jane Birkin and Ross Stores, Inc. his new designing name, RM by director Jacques 4440 Rosewood Drive the designer Roland Mouret, will Doillon, was Pleasanton, CA 94588 get its own store — of sorts — this joined by Kate Moss’ boyfriend Jamie week. The designer has styled Hince and singer Johnny Borrell at the a pop-up shop that will open in Soho basement club. A crowd danced TO: OUR MANUFACTURERS, Selfridges’ Superbrands area on to remixes of David Bowie and Primal SUPPLIERS AND VENDORS the store’s second fl oor Friday, Scream tracks, spun by Boombox DJ which will carry the sculptural Jerry Bouthier and Paul Weller’s son Statement of Policy Concerning Gifts dresses from Mouret’s spring Nat. “I don’t know how this whole capsule collection. Those who scene goes, I always stay with my The holiday season is an opportune time to remind our manufacturers, suppliers buy pieces from the store will cousins when I’m here,” admitted and vendors concerning our company policy as it pertains to gifts. also have the opportunity to win Doillon, surveying the crowd. “I a one-off scarf, hand-painted by guess I’ll fi nd out tonight though.” Gifts, however well intentioned, can create potential conflicts of interest for our the artist James Webster, that employees and our company. As such, our policy states that acceptance of any was shown in the RM runway ’S ART PROJECT: Burberry gifts, gratuities or payment of any kind by our employees is prohibited. show in Paris in July. In addition is cementing its links with the art to the London pop-up shop, the world. The London-based luxury We value the many fine business relationships that have cultivated over the years collection will also be sold at brand said Monday that it will be the Selfridges’ Exchange Square store sole sponsor of the National Portrait with our manufacturers, suppliers and vendors. To preserve the integrity of these in Manchester beginning Monday. Gallery’s upcoming exhibition “Vanity associations, and to mutually protect all parties involved, we respectfully request Fair Portraits,” which opens Feb. 14. that you refrain from giving or offering gifts of any nature to our employees. ROAD TRIPPING WITH TORY: Yes, that The exhibition will feature the was the designer Tory Burch buying iconic portraits that have appeared We extend to each of you our best wishes for a happy holiday season and a safe one of her own pieces, a brown in Vanity Fair’s pages since the and prosperous New Year. dotted silk and knit Tory Burch magazine launched in its fi rst dickie, along with a black Marc incarnation, which was published by Marc Jacobs coat at Neiman from 1913 through 1936, including Marcus on Michigan Avenue in images of Albert Einstein, Charlie Chaplin and Jean Harlow. It will also spotlight portraits by photographers who have regularly Michael Balmuth shot for the magazine since Vice Chairman, President its revival in 1983, including & Chief Executive Officer HILLDUN Annie Leibovitz, Helmut Newton, IS IN FASHION Mario Testino and Bruce Weber. “It is a great privilege to be FACTORING able to continue the Burberry ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE FINANCING LETTERS OF CREDIT history of supporting the arts,” PURCHASE ORDER FINANCING said Christopher Bailey, creative (212) 244-2600 225 W 35TH STREET, NY NY 10001 director of Burberry. The exhibition will run through May Tim Moore Jeffrey Kapelman Gary Wassner 26, and Burberry and Vanity Fair (310) 706-4142 will cohost an opening event 1500 ROSECRANS AVE., SUITE 500 MANHATTAN BEACH, CA 90266 for the exhibition Feb. 11, the company said. Brittany Stapelmann WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 9 WWD.COM Product Packaging Key Theme at Trade Show

By Jennifer Weil sis.” In other words, ASSET is used to show clients the sustainability of different packaging. MONTE CARLO, Monaco — Sustainability was a On creating sustainability in general, Thorne watchword at Luxe Pack Monaco, the packaging said, “We can go much further than where we are trade show held here from Oct. 23 to 26. today; we’ve just scratched the surface.” A total of 6,121 people attended the session, The subject is clearly here to stay, judging from representing a 9.5 percent increase from the num- a panel discussion led by packaging designer Marc ber at the same event in 2006. Rosen. It was called “Echo Eco, the Advent of Durability was discussed during a roundtable Sustainable Luxury,” and featured fashion design- conference led by Agnès Kubuak, artistic director er Linda Loudermilk and the heads of two organic of Style Vision. beauty brands — Brenda Brock of Farmaethetics “How do you inscribe a product in the long and Jane Dir and Rohan Widdison of Nvey Eco term?” she asked. Kubuak said one way compa- Cosmetics. nies can prolong product life cycles is by creating Widdison, the founding ceo of Nvey Eco, said, packaging that can be used in various manners. “what was a far-out idea two years ago is now a

A box, for instance, may second as a CD holder trend moving toward a future.” NAN COULTER PHOTOS BY when emptied of its original content. “Not one week goes by when a company doesn’t BRIDGING THE PRICE POINTS ask me for sustainable packing,” continued Many executives attending the Luxe Pack show Laurent Morlieras, production director of Carré say mass and masstige beauty product manufac- Saltaire Branches Out Noir, echoing the experience of many executives turers are trading up when it comes to packaging. at the trade show. “We’re not just in the selective market any- “We have more and more requests to use recy- more,” said Claudia Tillmanns, account manager Into Women’s Apparel clable paper,” agreed Markus Poppe, marketing Europe for DuPont Cosmetic Solutions. “We are in and sales director at Procos. the mass market, too.” By Holly Haber The Dallas store is designed However, a fully sustainable solution is rarely The company’s trademarked Surlyn, which is for comfortable shopping. The available these days. scratch-resistant, has DALLAS — Saltaire, a new air is scented, and there is a “No packaging is 100 percent ‘white,’” added been used by mass women’s clothing brand, wants central sitting area with two Jean-Pierre Cornillou, packaging department and bridge market to build a casual luxury busi- sofas and a coffee table fl anked manager at Strate Collège. “You have to fi nd a brands for two years. ness on the store it opened at by a turquoise glass water wall compromise. It is a question of an equilibrium.” And that business is NorthPark Center here. and the cash wrap, a minimal af- DuPont Cosmetic Solutions’ new makeup brush- growing, she said. The women’s line was intro- fair backed by a cool blue green es have a green element. The company is using bris- So, too, is SGD not- duced this fall, extending a label wall and an unobtrusive logo. tles made of Tynex Natrafi l, a polymer composite ing an uptick in de- that Seattle Pacific Industries The exterior is lined with that resembles animal hair, said Claudia Tillmanns, mand from masstige launched more than 18 months slabs of Jerusalem stone, and the account manager Europe for the company. brands, said Eugénie ago for men. Saltaire women’s fl oor is limestone, Black noted. Andreas Ritzenhoff, M.D., president and chief Ponsar, market man- styles are in 40 stores, including The clothes address casual executive offi cer of Seidel GmbH, a German-based ager, prestige per- units of Bloomingdale’s, Neiman career and weekend wear with supplier largely specializing in aluminum packag- fumery, for the com- Marcus and Nordstrom. The items such as topstitched twill ing, has embarked on a nanotechnology research pany. She added, “The men’s line has built to 300 doors. pants, $198; sueded-silk camp mission to create methods of manufacturing con- fl anker market is get- The Saltaire store carries shirts, $188; cashmere hoodies, tainers that use less material. As a side benefi t, ting bigger, so people both collections, aiming for a $178, and a leather trenchcoat Ritzenhoff, who is working with two German uni- are asking for more 35- to 55-year-old demographic with a rabbit-fur collar, $1,298. versities, has already discovered how to create ways to differentiate with styles that lean toward con- The palette is mostly neutral with different surface effects that, for instance, make their bottles.” temporary but accommodate a plenty of black, khaki and ivory, aluminum look like porcelain. Ritzenhoff indicat- Rexam’s Visible At Luxe Pack, SGD bit of middle-aged spread. The but tops pop with hues such as ed that his goal is to make luxury packaging more Lips packaging. displayed techniques company also opened a 2,100- turquoise, red and fuchsia. sustainable. “We don’t including glued-on square-foot Saltaire shop in Culti’s bath, body and home have to spoil the world,” metal plates, holographic effects August at Las Vegas’ Fashion wares also are offered, including he noted, adding, “I think made with lacquer, stuck-on Show mall. unusual cashmere spheres that we will see a revolution.” Swarovski crystals, fl ocking and Priced around bridge, Saltaire diffuse room fragrance in citrus, Ritzenhoff puts such BEAUTY BEAT various other metal effects, along is made of Italian fabrics select- pine, vanilla or cinnamon. with more traditional fi nishings. ed for softness and comfort, said Saltaire wants to open three Rexam showcased Visible Lips, a stock lipstick Michael Black, president. to fi ve stores a year. Valois packaging with attached treat. with a transparent tube and cap allowing consumers “The women’s line is just get- “Next, we’ll be looking into to see quickly the makeup color. The airtight tube, ting out at retail,” Black said. Florida and at the West Coast,” whose cup is a slender 11 millimeters, was created “We look to our stores to be a Black said, citing Miami; Orange with the whole range of distribution channels in marketing tool for the brand as County, Calif., and Scottsdale, mind — from specialty stores to supermarkets. far as imagery — how it looks, Ariz. He declined to estimate Meanwhile, Cosfibel Inc.’s new ceo Ilan feels, smells and touches for the revenue for the stores. Schinazi said the company’s primary packag- consumer in these high-volume “It isn’t a sales-driven concept ing business stems these days not just from the malls. We think this will sup- for us — it’s brand-driven, and we traditional high-end brands, but also from mass port the brand at Nordstrom or want to excite the customer with market names. Neiman Marcus.” a new level of retail,” Black said. Schinazi would not discuss numbers, but indus- try sources estimate Cosfi bel rings up $20 million annually from primarily packaging and $50 million a year from promotional items. The fi rm — through a reorganization and the opening of subsidiaries in Manhattan H&M Workers Join Union some major cities worldwide, among other chang- By Ross Tucker es — expects to double its sales within fi ve years. NEW YORK — More than 1,000 workers at nine Hennes and SAMPLES GET SNAZZIER Mauritz stores in Manhattan have voted to become part of the Sampling is more dynamic by the minute. Retail, Wholesale and Department Store Union. “People are sampling more,” said Fabio The union now will begin negotiating a contract for the work- Mangiarotti, European sales director for business ers. Because of the start of the holiday season, serious discussions sampling at Valois. “Studies show consumers are weren’t likely to begin until the new year, said Stuart Appelbaum, not keen to use vials, since they’re not represen- president of the RWDSU. The union is an affi liate of the United Food tative of the fi nal product; they are perceived as and Commercial Workers International Union and represents more cheap,” he said, referring to the classic versions, than 5,000 people in the city working for Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. adding the demand for more qualitative sampling “We worked diligently with the union to ensure that the entire orga- is on the rise. “Companies need to differentiate nizing process was fair and democratic,” a spokeswoman for H&M in themselves because of the hundreds of launches.” the U.S. said in a statement. “H&M has always enjoyed good relations importance on the project that he reorganized Among the novelties Valois highlighted at Luxe with unions worldwide, and we are confi dent that we will continue to top management by naming two general manag- Pack was the next iteration of its Easy Cap, called build upon our new relationship and partnership with the UFCW.” ers — Frank Hemer will oversee business affairs EasyLink. The new styles come as a pour and a Appelbaum declined to discuss specifi c issues that will be on while Michael Hoff is in charge of technical spray format, and each was created so eye-catch- the negotiating table, but a statement released by the union on matters — “so I can dedicate more of my time ing attachments can be hung from them. Tuesday shed some light on topics likely to be at the top of the list. to innovation.” “The idea was to present something in line “The workers at H&M have been very clear that they want to Also, at Alcan Packaging there is an effort to with trends,” explained Mangiarotti, referring to see a change for the better in their wages, benefi ts and working reduce the amount of material used in packag- the fashion of attaching little knickknacks to ob- conditions, and we want to get to work to help make that happen,” ing, said Nicholas Thorne, innovation and de- jects, such as cell phones. said Frank Bail, president of Local 1102 RWDSU UFCW, which velopment director. He explained in order for Procos, meanwhile, displayed at Luxe Pack a will represent the workers. Alcan to discuss sustainability in “real terms” shopping bag replete with an ample-size scratch- H&M has more than 100 stores in the U.S. and more than 30 with its clients, the company has worked with out- and-sniff sample stuck to its side. in Canada. Appelbaum said New York will be a test for future side databases to create a model — called Alcan “We can virtually make it with any scent,” said agreements at H&M stores across the U.S. However, no organizing Sustainability Stewardship Evaluation Tool — Leander Kritikos, president of the company. efforts are under way in other areas. through which Alcan can make a “lifestyle analy- — With contributions from Pete Born 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 Greeting the Season: A Cloudy Forecast Retailers are scrambling to cope with higher energy costs and other economic woes, as well as demanding consumers.

By Arthur Zaczkiewicz Topping respondents’ shopping gift lists were apparel, accessories, shoes f the mood heading into Black Friday and handbags as well as gift cards. The Iseems grim, it is. Recent surveys and survey also showed great promise for analysis suggests spending, at best, will online sales, revealing that 46 percent be on par with last year. of the luxury respondents planned to do Black Friday, the offi cial kickoff of the their holiday shopping online. Luxury holiday shopping season, arrives after a respondents consisted of women with a month of fourth-quarter cautionary tales household income in excess of $250,000. from Macy’s Inc., Coach Inc., Polo Ralph The survey also revealed another star- Lauren Corp., Talbots Inc., J.C. Penney tling fact: More than 50 percent of the Co. Inc. and Kohl’s Corp.. respondents said they buy a majority of Inflationary energy costs, slumping their apparel at a discount. home sales and sagging consumer confi - Meanwhile, depending on the source dence is creating high anxiety for retailers of information, holiday sales forecasts are who are slashing prices, revising earnings ranging from a gain of 3 to 5 percent. estimates and forecasting softer holi- FTI Consulting’s 2007 Retail Report day sales. Wall Street is also nervous forecasts a 3.6 percent increase in holiday as banks take steep write-downs season sales. FTI defi nes the season from the subprime market col- as running from November through lapse, and investors fret over January. In 2006, FTI forecast a the negative impact of mac- 4.8 percent gain. Actual growth roeconomic factors on the came in at 5 percent. retail sector. In fact, the holiday Kevin Regan, a retail ana- S&P Retail Index is down lyst at FTI, said the key factor about 20 percent since the driving FTI’s projected in- beginning of the year. crease for this year “is the con- Shoppers during Black Friday, 2006. Consumers have become ’08 tinuing acceleration of real wage more discerning about what income.” He said this will “almost cal evidence supporting such an inverse “Between all the sales that have they buy and where they shop. single-handedly help save the pros- relationship is not existent. Consumers preceded this year’s Black Friday as October same-store sales, for example, pects of an otherwise disappointing 2007 haven’t let rising energy prices seriously well as the sluggish start to the fall and were lackluster for most. Retailers holiday season.” crimp their spending since the energy holiday shopping season, I think we are blamed unseasonable weather and kicked The FTI report found that real wage crisis of 1981.” looking at less than record-breaking into gear planned promotions of 30 to 60 growth “has gone largely unnoticed this Bain & Co. said in a separate report sales for the Thanksgiving weekend,” percent off. When the cold weather did year, yet is on its strongest pace since the that it expects holiday sales will trail last Cohen said. “Now couple that with all arrive, the markdown machine was still late Nineties, and historically this bodes year’s 4.8 percent growth. Despite weaker the news about a sluggish economy, ris- humming, which analysts said was due to well for spending, as income growth is same-store sales, overall October retail ing gas prices, escalating fuel costs for nervousness over a lack of traffi c — espe- highly correlated with changes in con- spending growth came in at 3.4 percent heating a home and the slowdown in cially at the mall. sumer spending.” — on par with last year’s numbers. the real estate market….That affects Over the past few holiday seasons, ap- But real wage income is the “only vari- Warehouse clubs and luxury retailers the consumer’s psyche. And that makes parel has lost market share to other seg- able in the FTI forecast to have improved are outpacing the market, with about 7 for a challenging set of circumstances ments, most notably electronics, such as over last year,” said the report. “Housing percent same-store sales growth. for retailers to drive sales growth over iPods and digital cameras. Analysts said weakness, a cooling economy and rising The moral is that consumers are still Thanksgiving weekend.” there are no “It” items this holiday, and energy prices are collectively weighing spending, and apparel is no exception, A survey released this week by the aspirational shopper — those who on the minds of consumers, who are de- said Christopher G. Fox, senior manager, Accenture found that “more than four in buy luxury goods at opening price points cidedly downbeat going into the holiday Bain & Co. 10 U.S. consumers said they plan to shop — is said to be pulling back from key season, according to most sentiment sur- Archstone Consulting, which describes on the day after Thanksgiving and will brands and retailers. veys. FTI retail experts believe that wage itself as a management consultancy and not let gas prices affect their spending.” The good news is that real wage income growth should ultimately over- brand innovation fi rm, forecasts holiday The fi rm said 49 percent of respon- growth will sustain spending, according come these other negatives, resulting in retail sales to show an increase of 3 per- dents “said that gas prices will not affect to one top consulting fi rm, while apparel a 2007 holiday season sales forecast that cent this year, “barely keeping pace with their holiday spending, but nearly the the projected infl ation rate of 2.7 percent,” same amount [45 percent] said they will the fi rm said in its report, adding, “This make fewer shopping trips this year due refl ects the slowest growth rate in retail to gas prices.” holiday sales over the last fi ve years.” Whether gas impacts spending and “Retailers will see limited growth holiday sales or not, one thing is clear: in holiday spending, resulting in a ‘sea- Online sales and gift cards are becoming son of discounts’ that will reward savvy more prevalent. shoppers,” said Dave Sievers, retail and According to comScore Networks, consumer products practice leader at online sales last month rose 19 percent, Archstone. bringing year-to-date growth to 21 per- Sievers said aggressive markdowns cent. EMarketer predicts 18.5 percent “will drive shoppers to the stores. It won’t growth in holiday online sales over last allow retailers to overcome the adverse year, which is in line with other major economic factors that will affect sales, online sales forecasts for the season. including the downturn in housing and a Shoppers plan to spend almost a quarter tightening credit market.” of their holiday budgets on gift cards this Customer Growth Partners presi- year, according to an American Express dent and analyst Craig Johnson expects Gift Card survey. This is up from 18 percent holiday sales to rise 5 percent this year, last year and 13 percent in 2005. which will be “held down only by a stub- “Gift-givers want to get it right the fi rst born housing slump.” Johnson added that time and choose gifts that recipients will electronics again will play an important enjoy using as they wish,” said Alpesh role this holiday. Chokshi, president, American Express “For anyone still doubting that this Travelers Cheques and Prepaid Services, will be the ‘Tech Christmas,’ just watch in a statement. “Gift cards come with un- and gift cards are top choices for women is tepid, if not disappointing, compared Grandma getting her Garmin or find spoken permission for the recipients to shoppers this year. And online shopping to recent years.” out that the hottest game with the nurs- splurge on themselves, and that is mak- is expected to be the best so far. And, al- Regan said the report found that con- ing home walker set is not Scrabble, but ing gift cards more appealing, acceptable though there is no “It” or must-have item sumers are “changing their purchasing Nintendo Wii bowling,” Johnson said. “And and personal.” this year, dresses did well during the fall basket, increasing their buying of basics, on Fifth Avenue, whether you’re a twenty- On average, shoppers will buy six gift and the category is expected to be a top like consumables and some apparel, something stopping by H&M to save on fast cards. performer this holiday. while deferring purchases of bigger tick- fashion or a hedge funder shopping at LV About 61 percent of consumers said An exclusive WWD/Global Strategy et items.” at the 57th Street corner, the one place they they plan to give gift cards this holiday, Group survey of 2,000 women completed Regan also said the escalating price all converge is another block up at Apple, said Michael Niemira, chief economist last month found that 62 percent of the of energy is an “overrated variable in where they’re standing 30-deep at the and director of research, International respondents plan to spend the same the consumer spending equation.” He checkout queue — midday on a Tuesday Council of Shopping Centers. on gifts this year as they did last year. explained that the supposed causal re- afternoon, before the holiday rush.” “This bodes well for retailers, as it ex- Twenty-two percent of the total respon- lationship between higher energy prices Still, others are not so optimistic. NPD tends holiday spending well into the New dents were classifi ed as luxury shoppers, and weaker spending “is spouted regu- Group Inc.’s chief industry analyst, Marshal Year,” he said. and 73 percent of this demographic said larly in the business media whenever it Cohen, said, “We’re likely to see Black — With contributions from they would spend the same as last year. speaks of high gas prices, but the statisti- Friday showing signs of ‘going gray.’” Jeanine Poggi WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 11 WWD.COM

Bishop of WWD West Seventh From Colorado to Calif., Merchants Look to Value iced jeans. By Rachel Brown and Marcy Medina for housing concerns at stores in San Bernardino and Riverside, a metro area that, combined, accounted for etailers in the West are banking on merchandise the most third-quarter foreclosure fi lings in the U.S. Rthat provides good value to lift the bottom line this “Everyone thinks they have to save a lot more now,” holiday season. said Fakhimi of the housing slump’s fallout. Merchants in Los Angeles, San Francisco, Denver, Oren Hayun, co-founder of L.A.-based Planet Funk, Las Vegas and Scottsdale, Ariz., like others across the which has 22 units in California, Texas and Colorado, U.S., said they expanded their price ranges and tested argued that quality products at reasonable prices promotions to deal with diffi cult macroeconomic forc- would catch consumers’ eyes. The chain’s assortment es, including tight credit, the housing slump, weaker has expanded to a wider array of prices. This holiday consumer confi dence and high fuel costs. season he is carrying Cheap Monday jeans for $80. In Los Angeles County, a bellwether for the region, “There needs to be a higher perceived value,” he said. the median home price sank 3.7 percent to $525,000 “Two years ago, anything went.” in October compared with the same month a year ago; In Seattle and San Francisco, strong economies are gasoline climbed to $3.36 on Monday from $2.45 last translating into healthy sales at fashion boutiques. year, and the jobless rate hit 5.6 percent, up from 4.8 Customers in the northwest high-tech hubs, although percent in 2006. not on a buying binge, don’t appear turned off by higher “We expect it to be a little more challenging than prices of European apparel, which is costly compared in past holidays, but there are opportunities for us to with U.S. goods because of the dollar’s falling value. An Anchor do well,” said James Shimizu, chief marketing offi cer “The difference between $320 and $350 for my Blue of Ontario, Calif.-based Anchor Blue, a specialty mall doesn’t matter,” said Victoria Roberts, who top and retailer with about 200 stores. He declined to forecast owns Seattle lingerie shop Zovo in affl uent University Jasmine revenues for the season. Village with her husband Engle Saez. They expect hol- skinny Shimizu indicated that shoppers seeking affordable iday sales to be up 20 percent. jeans. gifts could end up at Anchor Blue, where denim sells Like the Seattle area, Northern California’s robust for far less than it does at designer stores. “In recent high-tech economy has kept demand humming for de- years, we have had more of a high-low phenomena, signer fashions and luxury goods. and maybe that high will not play out as much this “We have a lot of clients who work at Google, Yahoo year,” he said, pointing to skinny-leg jeans and fake fur or law fi rms,” said Cristina Moe, one of three owners hoodies as key holiday items. Anchor Blue is touting of Hush, which has units in Walnut Creek and on San its value proposition with a Black Friday promotion Francisco’s Union Street. “We haven’t seen someone offering jeans at $19.99. switching what they covet to something less expen- Jaye Hersh, owner of the Los Angeles shop sive.” Recent hot sellers at Hush have included $300 Intuition, agreed that the most expensive goods may chunky knit cardigans by Adam Adam Lippes and have trouble fi nding takers. She’s primarily stuck to Alexander Wang riding jackets for $768. under a $300 price point. “Up to $200 or $250, nobody For six months, Colorado has had the highest fore- is giving a thought to it,” Hersh said. “When it gets over closure rate in the nation with 7,155 homes in foreclo- that, I don’t want them to hem and haw.” sure, according to California fi rm RealtyTrac. Extreme She is still looking for a 30 percent boost in volume, weather also has affected holiday sales, which were soft partly because she is adjusting the store’s selection for last year because of two back-to-back blizzards that kept leaner times, avoiding the trendiest items and relying shoppers at home in November and December. more on accessories and impulse gift merchandise. This year, a warm fall and temperatures of 75 de- Marley rings from $20 to $85 and a $10 clear bag read- grees two days before Thanksgiving slowed sales of win- ing “Plane to See” have been popular at Intuition. ter merchandise. But retailers in some areas such as With the Writers Guild of America strike upscale Cherry Creek, home to a mall an- in its third week in what is a company town, chored by Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and “it is too early to see a trickle-down effect, Saks Fifth Avenue as well as a three-block but people are really watching what they are adjacent retail enclave known as Cherry spending their money on,” Hersh said. A L’Artisan Creek North, said while gifting may not be Beauty Collection, based in Van Nuys, Parfumeur robust, self-purchases haven’t slowed. Calif., has been less fortunate. The three- for Bottega Elizabeth Lindsay of Elizabeth Lindsay unit retailer has a store next to CBS studios, Veneta Creations, a jewelry and gift boutique in and owner Shawn Tavakoli said the average candle. Cherry Creek North, said customers are ticket has dropped 10 percent since writers seeking reasonably priced gifts. “Most walked off their jobs. people are looking to spend between $50 “There is a certain amount recession and $100,” she said. “I have Pandora proof to our business,” said Tavakoli, who is bracelets and charms that start at $25 anticipating a 6 percent holiday bump this and average $100 and I’ve doubled my year. “People still need cosmetics products, order from last year.” but they are not spending as much.” On the other end of the spectrum, Gift items such as a $70 Max Martinez of Max’s has been sell- kit and a $160 L’Artisan Parfumeur for ing designer clothes for 23 years in Bottega Veneta candle keep merchan- his Denver, Boulder and Aspen stores. dise moving during the holidays. Beauty While his busiest seasons are spring Collection is trying to lure customers with a and fall, his pre-collection business, direct-mail promotion that gives discounts which hits stores in mid-December, is for purchases that top $75 and $100. increasing. “I treat those early spring The strike is not the only cause of jit- deliveries as my holiday sales,” he ters. Layoffs at large companies such as said. “The weather has affected me biotech fi rm Amgen Inc. and mortgage more than the economy.” Martinez said apparel stores in Scottsdale, said her stores “are lender Countrywide Financial Corp. have dresses from Stella McCartney, Missoni stocked up and ready to go for the holidays.” At Croll’s eaten into retail profi ts. In August, Thousand Oaks, and Narciso Rodriguez have been the most popular, Kierland Commons store, there is more stock this year Calif.-based Amgen announced it would slash its work- with average price points of $1,200 to $2,000. than last, especially dresses, ranging from $150 cock- force of around 20,000 by as much as 13 percent. That Although the weather can be iffy in mountain states, tail dresses to $2,000 ballgowns. same month, Countrywide in Calabasas, Calif., began the consistent sunshine in the Phoenix-Scottsdale area In Las Vegas, the penultimate tourist town in a sending layoff notices to sales agents. has helped make it one of the fastest-growing retail desti- state that is neck and neck with Arizona for population Fred Levine, owner of 26-unit retailer M. Fredric, nations, with an already strong seasonal customer base. growth, economic factors appear to have had less of an based in Agoura Hills, Calif., said his stores near the “The economy may have somewhat of a negative im- impact. At the Wynn, divisional merchandise manager Amgen and Countrywide headquarters have taken a pact on sales, and more than anything in our area, hous- and fashion director Todd Hanshaw, in charge of the beating, but he thinks the impact is short term. “The ing and tourism is affected by that,’’ said Randy Krebs, hotel’s eight apparel and accessories shops, said, “So worst of it has passed,” he said. a buyer at Covet boutique. “We rely a lot on traffi c from far business is great. People want the special pieces When the going gets tough, Levine doesn’t get the Super Bowl, the Bowl games and golf tournaments, and they know that it is a one-shot chance here.” scared into shrinking inventories and, instead, infuses even though the residents are our main customers.” At Lior boutique in the Venetian Grand Canal shops, them with sought-after designs. He is carrying a 30 To bolster his stock of emerging designers and manager Francois Jaafar said about 90 percent of his percent heftier supply than last year. “The vendors premium streetwear (Dry Corn from Germany, Acme, customers are tourists making self-purchases. “They have been chock full of incredible things,” Levine said. Habitual, Smoke and Mirrors) Krebs ordered earrings are not bargain shoppers,” he said. Hot selling items “It is that antidenim resurgence of fashion.” and necklaces “because those make great gifts.” He include Jiki evening dresses from $3,800 to $5,800 and Bahman Fakhimi, owner of 27-unit Planet Beauty, also scaled back on premium denim. jewelry by Pasquale Bruni starting at $5,000 and going based in Costa Mesa, Calif., beefed up inventory about 10 For Krebs, the post-Christmas time is “getting big- to $38,000. “We always overstock for the holidays and percent over last year because he contends variety — most ger and bigger every year. In the last half of December, mostly sell out on certain items, but we never run out notably of gifts less than $60 — will help drive sales. everyone waits to do holiday shopping because there of merchandise,” he said. Overall, he estimated his business would increase 6 are bargains to be found. ” — With contributions from Joanna Ramey, to 7 percent, an amount that would be exceeded if not Jennifer Croll, owner of two eponymous women’s Rachel Rees and Diana Ryu 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 WWD.COM Jones Changes Course: Closing Anne Klein Collection Continued from page one Isabel Toledo Jones bought Anne Klein as part of its a much-needed new tone for the brand and purchase of Kasper A.S.L. in 2003, and serve as a halo for the other divisions. recently singled the brand out as a major Toledo’s efforts were praised by the opportunity for growth. To that end, it fashion press and opened up new retail op- masterminded a strategy to create a de- portunities for Anne Klein in stores such signer tier that could serve as a market- as Barneys New York (which Jones sold to ing vehicle and bring a consistent vision Dubai investment fi rm Istithmar for $942.3 to the other divisions. Jones beefed up its million in September), Neiman Marcus management team for Anne Klein, and and Nordstrom, as well as specialty store conceived a striking advertising campaign Ikram in Chicago. Resort, which typically photographed by Philip-Lorca diCorcia hits stores next month, will be the last ship- and featuring models Carolyn Murphy and ment. The spring season, which was shown Stella Tennant. There was just one snag. on the runway during New York Fashion The “designer tier” idea was conceived Week in February, will not be produced. by Peter Boneparth, Jones’ then presi- The move is likely to send shock waves dent and ceo, and Lynn Cote, then ceo of through the industry, since Toledo and her wholesale sportswear, suits and dresses. illustrator-husband, Ruben, are well liked The duo departed last summer and were and highly respected for their creativity. replaced in essence by Card and Susan Jones’ choice to shutter the collection Metzger, ceo of women’s better sports- business also underscores the growing wear. The new regime was left having to challenges of launching a designer brand grapple with a costly designer venture with costly runway shows and marketing that hadn’t proven itself at retail at a time campaigns in today’s tough retail climate. when Jones had to make tough decisions Toledo is expected to help wind down about its own future. the designer business and remain on Toledo managed to quickly set a new board until her contract ends. While tone for Anne Klein, giving the brand Jones executives declined to disclose de- renewed credibility with a focus on in- tails of Toledo’s contract, a source close to novative fabrics and new cuts. She told the company estimated that she was con- WWD in August that she wanted to es- tracted to stay on for approximately one tablish a new DNA for the brand that more year. homed in on the “clean and extreme “We appreciate all that Isabel has done vision of a woman.” For spring, she of- for the Anne Klein brand through her fered romantic and ladylike dresses in creative direction and her vision of the multiple variations, from ones smat- Anne Klein woman,” said Wesley R. Card, tered with multicolored pixels or hand- Jones’ president and chief executive of- painted flowers to striped versions and fi cer. “Anne Klein is perfectly suited for draped jersey dresses. today’s environment, and that’s why we Her designs served to steer the cre- continue to focus on Anne Klein’s bet- ative directions at the better-priced ter and bridge lines, as well as footwear, AK Anne Klein collection, which Jones handbags and accessories.” relaunched as a lifestyle label this fall Toledo couldn’t be reached for com- with handbags, jewelry, denim and foot- ment. wear and activewear, and the bridge The development marks another blow Anne Klein New York label, which was in the storied and often challenging his- slated to be upgraded with the Toledo tory of the Anne Klein brand. Once consid- touch next spring. Now that Toledo will ered one of America’s most iconic sports- depart, the future creative for the two di- wear brands, it has gone through multiple visions, which currently generate a total identity crises after Anne Klein’s death in volume of about $525 million, including 1974 and just as many designers, who have wholesale, retail and licensing revenue, made the house’s revolving door the stuff remains unclear. According to a Jones of Seventh Avenue legend. Among the de- spokeswoman, Jones will rely on its signers walking in and out of Anne Klein’s management and design teams to contin- showrooms were Donna Karan, Louis ue the brand efforts, including Metzger Dell’Olio, Richard Tyler, Patrick Robinson, JOHN AQUINO BY CENTENO; RUNWAY TALAYA TOLEDO PHOTO BY and Jones’ chief merchandising offi cer Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco, Charles for bridge and apparel lifestyle brands, Nolan and Michael Smaldone. Some looks from Anne Klein’s spring runway show that won’t be shipped. Susie Rieland.

HARD LIQUOR: When a liquor brand wants to MAKING TIME: Time.com may be ready to play matchmaker and is considering a foray market to a downtown art crowd instead of into social networking. So readers will not only have access to a broad category of the suited-up bottle service set, whom do current events, they just might be able to fi nd that certain someone. Managing editor MEMO PAD they call? Flannel shirt-clad lensman Terry Josh Tyrangiel also plans to add more video content to the site, and expand its coverage Richardson. Belvedere Vodka, along with its of global business and entertainment. His strategy with Time.com so far has involved agency, Berlin Cameron, hired the photographer, known for his randy, sexually charged taking one topic at a time and aiming to do it better than the competition. Currently, images, to direct Belvedere’s 2008 campaign. The glossy images evoke an average that focus is on politics. Saturday night on the Lower East Side — late-night dinner, a woman applying blood-red Tyrangiel said the daily challenge for Time.com is competing against virtually lipstick using a man’s belt buckle as a mirror. There is also a 30-second commercial with every news and current events Web site on the Internet. But it appears his strategy Richardson, actor Vincent Gallo and revelers crashing an Upper East Side dinner party. is getting some lift, as revenue has increased 345 percent from 2006 to 2007, “We were looking for a new direction, a lot more edgy, provocative, progressive, to create according to a Time spokeswoman. Time.com’s unique visitors are up 53 percent our own space in the vodka world,” said Paul Ashworth, since 2006. That compares with a broad category of 100 current events/global news Belvedere’s senior vice president, explaining why the sites, which have collectively only increased 13 percent during the same period, brand hired Richardson. The print advertisements according to Nielsen//NetRatings. “The more engagement we get, the better,” broke in December issues of GQ, Vogue, Surface, Men’s Tyrangiel added. — Amy Wicks Journal, Entertainment Weekly and Rolling Stone, among others, and will continue rolling out new images MORE ABOUT MORE: More is temporarily operating without an editor, but even as Meredith through the fi rst quarter. Belvedere will also relaunch looks to replace Peggy Northrop, who decamped to Reader’s Digest two weeks ago, the its Web site next month, complete with additional magazine is proceeding with its fi rst Women in Film contest. A panel of judges that photographs and outtakes from the commercial. included Angela Bassett, Glenn Close and Jamie Lee Curtis, among others, chose from more Belvedere is also in discussions to display some of the than 1,000 scripts and short fi lms submitted by unheralded female writers over 40. The photos from the campaign during Art Basel at the home magazine said contestants’ ages ranged from 40 to 90, and that Laurie Donahue, a law of collector and Miami real estate developer Craig Robins. professor from Toledo, Ohio, won fi rst prize in the screenplay competition, while Abigail The ad is the most expensive in Belvedere history Zealey Bess, a fi lm and theater director in New York City, took honors for best short fi lm. — $20 million, more than triple the cost of the 2006 They’ll be bolstering their careers with agent and studio development meetings set up campaign. Seems Richardson doesn’t come cheap. by More, as well as a free intensive screenplay workshop, a “luxury spa getaway” and Aside from a good payday, Richardson told WWD $5,000. No word on whether the Dec. 10 lunch in Los Angeles will be presided over by he appreciated the creative freedom he was given. a new editor. — Irin Carmon An image from the 2008 Belvedere “What was nice of Belvedere is they wanted me to Vodka campaign. stay true to what I do,” he said. Though his client roster INTO THE JUNGLE: Former Harper’s Bazaar market director and current editor at lists Levi’s, Miu Miu, APC, Gucci and numerous fashion large for C magazine, Amanda Ross, has found a new gig at Candace Bushnell’s show, magazines, surely Richardson must turn down work from more conservative employers. “Lipstick Jungle.” Ross is working as a consultant on the drama, helping to style and What about Gatorade? “Gatorade is one of my favorite drinks, I would do Gatorade in a create the wardrobes for its three stars, Brooke Shields, Kim Raver and Lindsay Price. second,” he said. What about Gerber baby food? “Gerber…that would be great! We’ll “It’s a huge amount of work in a short period of time but it’s exciting to watch the have a party with a bunch of babies,” he responded. Let’s hope the tykes aren’t drinking characters come to life,” said Ross. “Lipstick Jungle” will begin airing on NBC in Belvedere. — Stephanie D. Smith early 2008. — A.W. WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 13 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

Gather the Family…We’ll Gather Possibilities. 24 Seven, the premier talent recruitment agency, has the most FULL-TIME and FREELANCE positions available immediately. • Apparel Design • Tech Design • Retail/Merchandising • Recruiting/HR • Accessories Design • Product Managers • Visual Merchandising • Sales/Account Executives • CAD • Production • WebPDM/PLM Administrator • Marketing/PR • Graphics/Marketing • Textile Design

Los Angeles [email protected] 310-587-2772 Orange County [email protected] 949-258-6540 San Francisco [email protected] 415-989-2424 Seattle [email protected] 206-340-0247 We Put Fashion To Work.TM

LA Based Denim Search hundreds of positions in Company Growing Major Denim Company looking to Close to Downtown Los Angeles fashion, retail and beauty. expand and grow business. We are in the middle of unlimited Sr. Designer COMMERCE - 6,000 sq. ft. / $ 7000 opportunities and we are looking Contemporary/bridge design house for candidates with those same SHIPPING, WAREHOUSE seeks talented Designer with proven limitless possibilities. If this track record. Must have 5 years Turnkey set-up - perfect for shipping or storage. describes you, please contact us. experience as Sr./Head Designer. We have immediate availability in Must have strong knowledge of Very close to 5 / 710 freeways. Pre-Production, Tech Design, and garment construction, fabrications, Design Assistant. All positions Double-tiered garment racking, shipping dock, easy parking. technical processes, trend analysis, require Excel / Illustrator / and management skills. E-mail all Bathrooms, high ceiling, fenced yard. Well-kept building. Photoshop, strong knowledge of resumes in confidence to: denim garment construction and [email protected] 3+ years experience. Email: [email protected] or Technical Designers- Pattern Call: 212.686.2410, x 218 - Judy making and sewing knowledge. Create tech paks / specs fittings. Design Assistants - Assist with sketching, specs, fittings, follow- up on samples. Graphic Artists - Screen print de- Subscribe velopment. Fashion oriented with a strong sense of trends and color. today! Pre-Production Coordinators - EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT - LOS ANGELES Trim Sheets, Cost Sheets, Update Call 800.289.0273 Seeking dynamic individual to assist senior executives reports. Order sample fabric and in day to day activities. Duties include coordinating travel trims. Assist with sample process. for individual arrangements, preparing daily sales and marketing reports Pre-Production Mgr - Oversee all and general administrative tasks. Candidate must have strong matters of development. Liaison subscriptions or organizational and communication skills. Salary commensurate between design team and all with experience. We offer a comprehensive benefits package. pre-prod personnel. email PLEASE FAX OR EMAIL YOUR RESUME Please email resumes & cover to: [email protected] WITH SALARY HISTORY TO: [email protected] 213-747-9311 or [email protected] 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

OF THE TOP JOB WEEK LUXURY FASHION HOUSE PR Director APPLY NOW ON FASHIONCAREERS.COM New York City

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. VINTAGE CLOTHING DOMESTIC PRODUCTION MANAGER No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Seeking a Domestic Production Manager with 5+ years exp. Responsible Call CLOTHES-OUT: AUCTION FRONT RUNNERS (937) 898-2975 December 4th 2007 11AM EST. for managing the coordination from beginning to end of cutting facilities, Nearly 400 lots of vintage couture and sewing rooms, fitting process & garment construction for high end fashion RTW from the 19th c. to the present. TODAY’S TOP CAREER OPPORTUNITIES pieces. Must have strong costing & negotiation skills. Excellent communica- Rare and fine furs, exotic skin hand- tor with proficient computer skills. Able to manage a staff in a very fast bags, mid-20th c. Haute Couture, high end accessories and contemporary paced environment. fashion. To be sold at Freeman’s Auc- CATO CORPORATION IMPORT PRODUCTION MANAGER tion’s 1808 Chestnut Street Philadel- phia PA, two hours by car from NYC. > Jr/Ms Sportswear Buyer 5+ years exp working with high end fabrics in a design driven company. JOBBER/EXPORTER Contact Olivia Snyder at 215.563.9275 Must have strong costing and negotiation skills, ability to manage & oversee We buy better goods. All categories, x3018 or [email protected] the entire production import process from submits, costing, fittings while including fabrics. Immediate $$. for more information and check MAJOR APPAREL GROUP Please call 212-279-1902 www.freemansauction.com for full managing delivery dates. on-line catalog 2 weeks prior to sale. > Sales Support IMPORT PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Print catalog available, $35 Now accepting consignments for 2008 3 years exp with exceptional communication skills in working w/oversees MUDD JEANS factories and comprehensive exp of shipping & tracking garments. Liaison > Exp. Salesperson between sales, design, tech and factories. Must be computer efficient and able to work in a fast paced environment. ROBERTO CAVALLI CUSTOMER SERVICE/SHIPPING REP 2+ years exp. and knowledge in dept. store procedures & edi regulations, RARE OPPORTUNITY FOR OWNING > Visual Merchandiser well organized, & capable of working in a fast paced co. "Key West" ASSISTANT PATTERNMAKER An Exclusive National Brand! VERA WANG 1407 BROADWAY PURCHASE OR LICENSE 2+ yrs exp in patternmaking & knowledge of garment construction inc SHOWROOMS/OFFICES WITH OPTION TO BUY > Advertising/Graphic Design Assistant pants, dresses, & jackets. Duties include pattern corrections, organizing TREBOR MGMT Key West Hand Prints Fabrics & Fashions, and locating patterns. Bob Forman 212-944-6094 x 314 Est’d. 1962, internationally renowned for its outstanding tropical prints, is seeking Go to fashioncareers.com for jobs like these and hundreds of LOGISTICS MANAGER a BUYER OR LICENSEE for its est’d. 3+ years exp.for a position located in NJ warehouse. Must be knowledgeable Wholesale/Retail Clothing Company that other opportunities. includes its Wholesale Division, the "Key in all semantics related to shipping including but not limited to routing West" Trademark, an est’d. Internet Store, guides, calling for truck pick-ups, knowledge of receiving processes,and and over 2300 Copyrighted Original Prints capable of communicating with the office. with artwork, print library, and films. Contact Ed Swift at: (305) 294-4142 Please send all inquiries to: [email protected] 389 Fifth Avenue or E-mail: [email protected] Showroom Available: 1 year Sublease Designer Merchandising 2900 sq. ft. Move in condition. Low rent. BROOKLYN INDUSTRIES SEEKS: BROOKLYN INDUSTRIES SEEKS: Please contact Steve at: 212-685-6641 Women’s Woven Designer Merchandise Planner Contemporary design firm is looking Contemporary design firm is looking for a Women’s Woven Designer with for a Merchandise Planner. Must have strong technical knowledge. Must be 3+ yrs exp, ability to analyze numbers, proficient in Illustrator, Photoshop, and think strategically. Please apply Excel. Ideal candidates should have 2-3 to: bijobs@brooklynindustries .com years design experience. Please apply to: bijobs@brooklynindustries .com PRODUCTION CTL Excellent opportunities available in leading TESTING COORDINATOR women’s sportswear company in New York. BUYER/SENIOR DESIGNER Well organized individual. 3-5 yrs exp, L.A. based Jr./Contemporary label, selling strong verbal and computer skills with MERCHANDISER all the majors seeks an exp’d. HEAD ability to multi-task within a fast paced SWEATER DESIGNER Designer Developer/Sourcing/Prod’n. DESIGNER, Fang, Eye Shadow, Self environment. CTL lab dip and shade Major retail dress operation is looking Esteem type Import/Domestic prod’n. & band electronic and physical swatch TECHNICAL DESIGNER SWEATER DIVISION American w/contacts, living in Shanghai to fill senior buyer position. Knowledge sampling. Management of sample room, processing a must. Excellent follow up (7 yrs) seeks working relationship w/N.Y. of buying dress apparel; expertise on design team. Large current volume skills pertaining to timely coordination based Clothing Mfr. to do all of the above fashion trends; excellent analytical seeking growth to next level. Right salary and tracking of fabric and garments in China. [email protected] skills; good negotiating abilities. & incentives. Fax resumes: 626-855-8003 for testing. WMS Retail Link, and good RUBY RD. Should have past exp. as divisional or E-mail: [email protected] textile knowledge woven and knit. Eye merchandise manager, fashion buyer, for color A+. Literate in Microsoft Excel asst fashion buyer, or sales executive. and Outlook applications. SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Very exceptional opportunity, great Fabric/Piece Goods/Trim Buyer salary & benefits. PLEASE E-MAIL RESUMES TO: [email protected] CAD DESIGNER Call Marty/Liz at 631-420-0890 Fax or E-mail resume to: NYC based designer label seeks TECHNICAL DESIGNER WOVENS DIVISION experienced & very detail oriented Production Patternmaker DENIMS TO SELL 631-752-7785 individual. Excellent salary & benefits. Large Lots, Lots of Denim Fabric. ANNA SUI Send resumes to: [email protected] [email protected] E: [email protected] Camo Available. Cheap Prices. 5+ yrs. Skilled in draping, fitting, tech, 1.877.DENIM.TO.SELL accuracy from sample to production Admin Since 1967 prototype. Fax res and sal req to: (212) 768-2358 PATTERNS, SAMPLES W-I-N-S-T-O-N AND PRODUCTION Cut & Sew, Knits/woven. USA & overseas APPAREL STAFFING Sales Rep DESIGN * SALES * MERCH China. Call Brenda @ (718) 358-8278 or FASHION CAREER OPPORTUNITIES Established West Coast print converter Email: [email protected] ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION looking for very serious sales rep. Very (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 Ileen Raskin, Apparel 212-213-6381 serious. Please fax resume to (213) 624- Nancy Bottali, Accessories 212-213-6386 8972, Attn: Ed Lieberman Patterns/Samples/Production Cad/Asst Designer Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening Fast growing Missy Contemporary Cut [email protected] Sales Reps-Independent Gowns custom made & wholesale. & Sew Knitwear Co seeks exp CAD/ www.raskinexecsearch.com China leading leather and fur Garments Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 Asst Designer. Proficient with Excel, producing factory are looking to build Photoshop, and CAD, including pitch- & grow distribution! Seeking aggressive , ing colors, re-coloring prints, print GRAPHIC ARTIST exp’d sales reps with knowledge and Patterns/Samples/Production cleanup. Must possess good communi- Major Apparel Co. seeks graphic artist relationships with chain stores, major cation and general assistant design Full Service, Fine, Fast Work. with experience in boys infant to size retailers, major dept. stores, boutiques, Any Style responsibilities. Great atmosphere and specialty stores & major buyers. Email benefits! Fax resume to: 212-221-1353 7 playwear. Individual must be creative Phone: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999 and detail oriented. Responsibilities or call: [email protected] 646-717-3628 Compliance Coordinator include executing the art form for Manage co. compliance processes for sample purposes as well as start to Tech Design PATTERNS, SAMPLES, retail co. & mfg. sites. Req.: Bachelor’s finish packages for production. Must BROOKLYN INDUSTRIES SEEKS: (or foreign equiv.) in econ., intl. trade possess ability to work within a design PRODUCTIONS or bus. admin. Following (may be con- team atmosphere and interpret mer- Technical Designer All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. current): 3 yrs as Compliance Coord., chandising direction. Proficiency in Contemporary design firm is seeking a Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Mkting. Exec. or related; 3 yrs. in bus. Illustrator and Photoshop a must. E-mail Technical Designer. Must have 1-3 yrs environ. inv. org., analysis, verbal & resumes to: exp., ability to create tech packs from [email protected] sketch, evaluate fit problems on models wrttn. commun.; 3 yrs. in Excel, Word * JOBS *JOBS *JOBS * & Lotus Notes; 3 yrs overseas business & ability to create full graded specs. Apply PATTERNS, SAMPLES, *Artist For Production Art to: [email protected] travel; & 2 yrs. in compliance evals. *Artist Girls- Boys-Jrs. - Mens- $HI PRODUCTIONS inc. labor laws. *Designer-Assist-Assoc Boy-Girl-Jr. Full service shop to the trade. Résumé: Jennifer Cunningham, Tech Designer Assistant *Designer Assistant-tech packs-approvals Fast growing jean co. seeks a tech design Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Macy’s Merch. Group, *Designer Associate Girls N-T 11 Penn Plaza, NY, NY 10001 asst to spec garments, review fit sample, *Designer Girl/Boy I-T character do fit comments & comm. with overseas. *Designer Jr. Sportswear-Disney Couture Must be detailed, organized & good at DESIGN ASSISTANT *Production MGR-Assist-Coordinators-$HI Excel. Will train. E-mail resume w/ sal *Production Coords or Asst-Biling Chinese Established Jr, Missy, & plus importer req. to: [email protected] seeks help- Rough sketching, Technical *Product Coordinator - Lab Dips knowledge of spec measurements, *Prod’n Mgr or VP- current Walmart exp CAD photoshop, Illustrator. E-mail or fax *Technical Designers & Assistants $HI TECHNICAL DESIGNER [email protected] or fax 212-447-6851 *Technical Designer Assist or Assoc Kids *Technical Designer Jr. Urban Sportswr Major apparel co. seeks technical de- Call B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127 signer for junior girls line "Pastry" DESIGNER ASSISTANT from the hit TV show "Run’s House." Responsibilities include developing Leading NYC knit & swtr importer JR FIT MODEL/DESIGN ASST graded size specs, conducting fittings, seeks FT person w/1-2 yrs exp. Leading NYC knit & swtr importer communicating fit comments and Photoshop & Illustrator for Fashion seeks FT person w/1-2 yrs Juniors exp. correspondence with factories. Illustration, specs & tech sketching, Bust 35", Waist 27", Low Hip 37", Bra knits & swtrs a major plus. Assist Size 34B, Height 5’7". Assist w/tech PLEASE E-MAIL RESUMES TO: w/tech sketches & specs for sample sketches & specs for sample develop- [email protected] development. Track samples & pre- ment. Track samples & prepare tech pare tech packs. Assist w/creation of packs. Assist w/creation of styles & styles & concepts. Attend fittings & concepts. Attend fittings & Technical Designer communicate tech changes, formulate communicate tech changes, formulate Suit/Evening Mfr. seeks detail oriented corrections & provide solutions to corrections & provide solutions to person w/min. 2 yr.s exp. Chinese/English factories. Email resume to HR: factories. Email resume to HR: bilingual & knowledge of garment con- [email protected] [email protected] struction req’d. Call/Fax resumes to Tom: or fax to: 212-302-4556 or fax to: 212-302-4556 Tel: 212-564-2051 / Fax: 212-643-8150 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

OF THE TOP JOB WEEK LUXURY FASHION HOUSE PR Director APPLY NOW ON FASHIONCAREERS.COM New York City

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

SALES EXECUTIVE Alexis Bittar Inc. seeks a sales executive to manage specialty store accounts. 2 years experience in luxury market whole- sale sales required. Must understand NATIONAL SALES MANAGER building strategies for growth & work with existing & new accounts. Competi - Due to the Thanksgiving holiday, 5 - 8 years experience in wholesale tive salary & benefits. Email resume to: w/management role. Est’d. relationships [email protected] WWD will NOT PUBLISH w/luxury Dept./Specialty Stores. Solid business skills and management of multiple doors and accounts. Strong SALES EXECUTIVE on Thursday, November 22 New York based moderate missy presentation and leadership skills. line is seeking a strong, experi- Understanding of merchandise plan- enced sales executive. Must have strong relationships with department and Friday, November 23. ning and ability to collaborate with and chain store retailers. Must also be merchandising and marketing teams. able to pioneer new accounts, and be a Superior articulation abilities & pro- self . Great growth potential. Our deadline has been Please email or fax resume to: active approach a must. E-mail to: [email protected] or 212-768-8018 revised as follows: [email protected] SALES-MANAGER French Corner Soho, a high end clothing store, has managerial & sales associate positions available for locations in Long Island & Englewood, NJ. Seeking Issue: Mon., November 26 dedicated & enthusiastic professionals to join our growing team. Must have F/T Sales Associate high-end retail exp. Fax or E-mail re- Deadline: Wed., November 21 Prestigious, fast-paced environment sumes w/ salary req to: 516 466-9724 or Lingerie / Body Wear Boutique seeks [email protected] Full Time Sales Assoc. Qualified candi- dates will possess superior customer at 11 a.m. service, sales, and communication skills. Please Fax resume and salary require- SALES SUPPORT ments to: 212-453-5568 Major apparel co seeking sales support. Wal-mart experience preferred. Respon- sibilities include supplier quotes, Retail Sales Associate Link queries, order maintenance and Men’s luxury retailer is seeking F/T and inventory follow up. Individual will work P/T salespersons for NY, Costa Mesa closely with production dept on mer- and Boston stores. Min. 2 years luxury chandise testing and time and action sales experience. Please E-mail resume calendars. E-mail resumes to: to: [email protected] [email protected]

For subscriptions call 800-289-0273 or visit our website WWD.COM

MODEL IN PINK PHOTO BY JUAN ECHEVERRIA WWD MARKETS GREEN INTERNATIONAL world over. trade showsthe the buzzwordat dollar, greenis fashion toaweak From eco-friendly TRADE SHOWS SECTION IISECTION 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007

SECTION II WWD.COM

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS

After a long day on the show floor, head Escape Bar scene to these hot spots to relax and recharge.

The pool at the Haymarket Hotel. PHOTO BY TADEU BRUNELI TADEU PHOTO BY GREAT ESCAPE RIO DE JANEIRO — Escape Bar, which opened in mid-October in São Paulo’s Itaím neighborhood, aims to transport patrons to another world. The charm of the so-called “style bar” lies in its cozy, elegant and unusual ambience. Revelers enter past a backlit mini forest of dead, leafl ess trees before encountering a long, narrow space with seating for 100 patrons on an array of stools, banquettes and sofas. Escape Bar’s atmosphere is provided by a series of fl uorescent blue, green and red lights, which mix on the bar’s back wall and gradually change hues every fi ve minutes. POOL PARTY “When clients walk into our bar, they escape from the real world into a new and constantly transforming one,” said co- LONDON — Gathering around the pool is a Friday night affair at the new Haymarket Hotel. owner Regis Pina. The 18-meter indoor pool isn’t for laps though. Steps away from the capital’s theater Besides its light show, Escape Bar’s other forte is creative district, the Pool at the Haymarket Hotel, which was initially exclusive to guests at the new cocktails ($10 on average) made from imported liquors, as well as 50-suite boutique hotel, now offers a swanky alternative to the typical after-work hangout. cachaça, a local sugarcane distillate. The Wallpaper, for example, A DJ spins chill lounge music as patrons recline on ornate gold sofas and watch the col- is made with cachaça, passion fruit, sugar-laced vanilla and a ored light installations mimic a sunset, courtesy of designer Martin Richman. pinch of spicy pepper. From 6 p.m. until midnight on Fridays, the bar offers an array of creative concoctions The bar also offers upscale snacking, ranging in price from such as the Passion @ Haymarket — a blend of ginger and mint shaken with Stoli raspberry $9 to $18, including crab cakes in a sweet sauce; kafta, a Middle vodka — at 10.50 pounds (approximately $21.50 at current exchange) or a 540 pound ($1,105) Eastern spiced ground beef dish, topped with tahini; polenta bottle of Cristal Champagne. with pepperoni and cheese sauce, and spring rolls stuffed with Hotel chef Robin Read cooks up an exotic spin on the regular bar fare with a menu that shrimp, cheese, dried tomatoes and basil. includes a seafood platter of pickled sardines, swordfi sh skewers and lemon salmon, all for Escape Bar, Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 163; +55-11-3071-1526. a moderate 19.50 pounds ($39.90). Open Tuesday-Saturday, 6:30 p.m.-1 a.m. Haymarket Hotel, 1 Suffolk Place; +44-207-470-4000. — Michael Kepp — Tosin Mfon FOOD OF THE GODS MONTREAL — Devi, the acclaimed New York Indian restaurant, has brought its delicate brand of regional Indian cuisine to trendy Crescent Street here. “We are totally unlike the image one has of Indian buffets,” said owner Praveen Aggarwal, whose brother-in-law Rakesh Aggarwal formerly owned the New York Devi and is a partner in the Montreal venture. Already, Montrealers and tourists alike have commented on the delicacy of our dishes.” Meaning “goddess” in Indian, Devi uses fl avors and techniques from the many types of regional cuisines in India. Signature dish- es include Tandoor-Grilled Lamb Chops with Sweet & Sour Pear Chutney for 22.95 Canadian dollars ($24.55 at current exchange) or Tandoor Salmon for 19.95 Canadian dollars ($21.35). A scent Devi of cilantro, mint and Adlon Day Spa tamarind HOT SPA sweeten the room under BERLIN — As the inspiration for the Greta Garbo film “Grand Hotel,” there is no shortage of jewel-like legends connected to Berlin’s oldest hotel, the Adlon. This year the hotel celebrates its 100th lamps that anniversary, a century filled with famous guests including Bill Clinton, Queen Elizabeth and cast colored Michael Jackson, who famously dangled his baby out of a window. rays on the With prices reaching 12,500 euros ($18,260 at current exchange) per night for the wooden Presidential Security Suite — complete with limousine and butler service — staying the doors, lin- night might not be within your budget, but as of Nov. 7 even those with a less-than-regal tels and an- bank balance can taste luxury for a day by checking into the Adlon Day Spa. Spread over tiques im- 10,000 square feet and three levels, the spa offers massages, treatments and a comprehen- ported from sive beauty program using Kanebo and SkinCeuticals cosmetics. India. Soft, The minimalist interior was designed by Anne Maria Jagdfeld and includes 13 private silk fuchsia cushions balance the dark wood, giving the restaurant treatment rooms, yoga and meditation areas and three fi rst-class suites, which come com- an authentic Indian atmosphere. plete with private saunas, steam baths and Jacuzzis. Treatment packages start at 220 euros Prices range from 6 to 12 Canadian dollars ($6.42 to $12.84) for ($321) and private spa suites from 320 euros ($467) for half a day. appetizers, 14 to 29 Canadian dollars ($14.98 to $31.03) for entrées Adlon Day Spa, Behrenstrasse 72; +49-30-3011-17200; adlon-day-spa.de. Open Monday-Friday, and 6 to 11 Canadian dollars ($6.42 to $11.77) for desserts. A seven- 8 a.m.-10 p.m., and Saturday-Sunday, 8 a.m.-8 p.m. course tasting menu costs 55 Canadian dollars ($58.85). — Damien McGuinness Devi, 1450 Crescent Street; 514-286-0303; devimontreal.com. Open Monday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-midnight. — Brian Dunn For entertainment options in other cities, log on to wwd.com.

4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007

SECTION II WWD.COM

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Tailored Looks U.K. trade show organizers trim their offerings to better meet buyers’ needs.

By Tosin Mfon Above: Buyers look at accessories at the Moda show. LONDON — IN THE FACE OF GRIM MARKET CONDITIONS, Left: A look from the runway at London’s Moda show. British trade shows are relying on intimacy with their clients for a buoyant season. Trade shows also are amplifying the qualities that Organizers are keying in to dominant industry trends and creat- set them apart as they realize that buyers are spend- ing offerings that benefi t both buyers and exhibitors. ing more carefully. Pure, the women’s fashion and accessories show, will launch a foot- For Textile Forum, the only fabric trade show in the wear section at its Feb. 10 to 12 exhibition after learning that 66 per- U.K., being a niche player with a distinct identity is pay- cent of buyers had increased their footwear sales within 12 months. ing off. Organizer Linda Laderman said 95 percent of Organizers are expanding its exhibition space at Olympia London to the 25 brands showing at Textile Forum, running March 139,930 square feet, up 19,375 square feet from the previous season. 12 to 13 at the Vinyl Factory, are return exhibitors. The increasing presence of footwear also can be felt at London’s “You wouldn’t get consistency of exhibitors, people directional streetwear show, Margin. Last season, organizer showing season after season, if you weren’t delivering Odysseas Constantine launched Gild, an area for everything from what they wanted,” she said. jewelry to hosiery. And what buyers want — especially given the un- “Gild worked really well for the buyers, and we had a good re- certain economic outlook — is the ability to make sponse from the labels,” Constantine said. purchases with no strings attached. For Margin’s Feb. 10 to 12 show at the Vinyl Factory, Constantine “Buyers will be just a little more selective about is marketing Gild as a separate exhibition and is expanding, though plans to keep what they purchase,” Laderman said, adding that the show caters to high-end de- the number of exhibitors below 85. signers and bridal specialists. “They are not going to want to commit themselves to “I always make sure to grow the show organically and slowly,” Constantine large quantities of fabrics, and because we are offering short runs, they can sample, said, adding that he selects all the labels that show at Margin. “We’ve curated the test and come back if they want.” show so that buyers don’t have to wade through hole after hole — they know that The rapid evolution of fashion trends and quick stock turnover in retail outlets we’ve hand-picked a really good mix of brands.” has more buyers favoring short orders over advance orders. Organizers at Pure and Still, separate accessories areas do not work well for all organizers. At London Premier Kids are seeing more of their exhibitors begin to offer short-order business. Edge, the alternative clubwear show, organizer Carol Hunter said her buyers and “I think buyers are withholding some of their forward-order business for short labels prefer a mixed-in approach. order,” London Edge’s Hunter said, adding that all of her 220 exhibitors deliver orders “Our exhibitors like to be mixed in because it gives them more visibility…. within eight weeks. “In our show, they can order more accurately in terms of trends. They have a better chance of being found. Our buyers like to see accessories They know what their cash fl ow is like at the moment and there is a demand for it.” alongside clothing to see how they work together,” Hunter said. Pure sales manager Samantha Bleasby said her exhibitors also are feeling the London Edge is slated for Feb. 3 to 5 at the Olympia 2 fairgrounds. pressure to provide more collections for the upcoming season. Elsewhere, organizers are seeing surging interest in green products and are “With the climate change, it’s not just two seasons anymore,” Bleasby said, add- rolling out a range of eco-friendly initiatives. ing that Pure is considering offering more than two shows annually. “Exhibitors Premier Kids will unveil an Eco Kids section that houses organic cotton, are having to provide up to fi ve collections to keep up with the trends.” fair trade and “the latest” recycled products when it returns to the NEC in And in order to generate buzz and attract new buyers, organizers are increas- Birmingham from Jan. 27 to 29. ing their online presence with everything from overhauled Web sites to interac- “In the last year we had suppliers that had made garments out of organic fi - tive marketing campaigns. bers,” said Premier Kids event manager Olga Carola-Downing. “There is a lot “It’s not easy. You defi nitely have to work much harder to get buyers right now,” more awareness of the environment. We just want to show something that can be London Edge’s Hunter said. done without compromising on quality, fashion and style.” Moda introduced an e-broadcast last season to much positive response. London Premier Kids will host a seminar titled “Fibres to Figures,” which educates Edge has started creating publicity with blogs, MySpace pages and Facebook pages. buyers on how to offer ethical initiatives without hurting the bottom line. Casualwear show TBC has taken on a new organizer, Idex Media, and a color- Similarly, organizers at Moda, to be held Feb. 17 to 19 at the NEC, will distrib- ful new online campaign. The show will remain at the Truman Brewery for its ute reusable cotton bags instead of its usual cardboard bags. Feb. 10 to 11 edition, but will have more widespread online presence with click- London Fashion Week’s Esthetica collection — which showcases lines by thru ads on other sites and a revamped Web site. London’s eco-friendly designers such as Noir and Katherine Hamnett — has been “We intend to take a new direction with the show that will be very Internet- earning its green credentials over the past two seasons. For the next show, which led,” said organizer Buzz Hunter. will run Feb. 10 to 17, media representative Caroline Rush said LFW plans to Pure also updated its Web site for the upcoming show, and buyers now can see an continue building upon this as its “main initiative.” “exhibitor zone” with images and descriptions of products in the online collections. And the British Fashion Council-sponsored show is very particular about “This is to refl ect the growing number of visitors who are registering online. which designers it partners with. It’s the way the market is,” Rush said. “We are looking to make sure that we don’t compromise on the quality of Beyond the virtual experience, organizers are looking for new ways to ensure designers,” Rush said. “We have to make sure that they are on the same level as that guests are plugged in at exhibitions that could have upward of 1,000 people the designers within the exhibition.” milling around. The exhibition will return to London’s Natural History Museum, which orga- LFW organizers kept guests in the know last season with its fi rst publication nizers favor for its historical signifi cance, despite frustrations with space restric- of The Daily Rubbish, which provided “inside info” on social events as well as tions and the off-center location. features on designers. About 3,000 copies were circulated last season, and Rush “We are still going to be at the Natural History Museum. Going forward, we are not said the presentation will be slightly updated for the coming season. entirely sure what the plans are,” Rush said. “It’s not easy getting from one side of “It was the fi rst time that we managed to do something like that,” Rush said. “It gave London to another. The ideal scenario is that we have a location that’s easy to get to.” a little bit of inside info, like who was where. It was a magnet around fashion week.”

6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007

SECTION II

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS New Horizons A focus on creativity and new categories helps keep the Paris trade show sector strong.

By Emilie Marsh will be in the spotlight. The boutique show, which boasts Parisian trade a plethora of emerging designers as well as luxury PARIS — WHILE THE EURO MAY BE SOARING NEAR events include many brands, will regroup its accessories under one roof at historic levels against the dollar and yen, French trade show runway shows. the Bourse de Commerce. On the second level, in addi- organizers remain optimistic about the upcoming season. tion to established luxury brands such as Anne Valerie Organizers said business has been strong in the second Hash, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Jens Laugesen, half of this year, and voiced confi dence that the momen- a new Atelier Créateur section will be devoted entirely tum would continue into next year. They added that efforts to budding designers. to bolster creativity, an increase in consumer spending in “Buyers today are shifting their purchasing hab- France and innovative categories such as ethical fashion its. They are willing to take more risks when it comes and high-tech design are bearing fruit and keeping Paris a to young designers,” said Michael Hadida, organizer of crucial stop on the international trade show tour. Tranoi. “We put the focus on uncovering fresh talent that “Fashion in France continues to put the accent on cre- retailers may not otherwise have the time to fi nd.” ation and, despite the strength of the euro, attendance fi g- The Palais de la Bourse location has given carte ures increased,” said Xavier Clergerie, organizer of the blanche to Paris-based denim brand April 77, which will Who’s Next and Premiere Classe contemporary ready-to- use the platform to unveil its new April Records Label, wear and accessories shows that will convene at the Port while a Japanese salon — showcasing edgy Japanese de Versailles Jan. 24 to 27. Visitor attendance from North brands — will convene in the same location, as will a America increased by 16.6 percent at the last session. photography exhibit by Japanese artists. “Labels today need to tell a story. Retailers are very well Meanwhile, at the Montaigne location, Brazilian informed. They are looking for exceptional products such brands will be getting special attention with a host of as ethical brands or young designers.” high-end brands such as Gloria Coelho. The Prêt à Porter, France’s largest rtw and accessories Nicolas Jones, fonder of boutique designer show trade show, which coincides with Who’s Next at the Porte de Rendez-Vous Femme, which runs Feb. 29 to March 3, said Versailles, also is putting a focus on its accessories, offering the show would be moving from L’Espace Richelieu to creativity and eco-friendly labels with a high-end spin. Espace Pierre Cardin. A tent in the Tuileries Gardens is “We are introducing a new footwear category next also in the works. Jones said the show would continue its season,” said Jean-Pierre Mocho, president of the Prêt à partnership with City of Berlin Fashion Fringe, as well Porter, who added that the show would increase its offer- as an exhibition of the recently launched book, “Young ing of plus-size labels, which made its debut last season. European Fashion Designers,” which is fi lled with past The Prêt’s So Ethic section is extending its reach into and present Rendez-Vous designers. the luxury category. Eco-friendly stalwarts with higher The Salon International de la Lingerie, which will price points, including Stewart+Brown, Katharine Hamnett and Del Forte, will be be held at the Porte de Versailles from Jan. 24 to 27, also will be getting the presented at the fair, while a separate luxury ethical show for higher-end brands green treatment. will coincide with Paris Fashion Week in October. The salon’s organizer, Eurovet, is considering switching to recycled paper for “Ethical brands are getting more creative and are beginning to sell in fashion- the event’s documentation and is working on new codes of identifi cation for those able multibrand stores. Retailers are increasing their demand for ethical high-end lingerie brands and textile manufacturers using organic fabrics or adhering to envi- labels,” Mocho said. “Ethical brands are not going to inundate the market, but it’s ronmentally friendly production processes. “We’re looking into ways of making that a very strong category.” easily recognizable in the catalogue or on the salon’s map,” said Florence Mompo, Meanwhile, Eclat de Mode, which specializes in costume and silver jewelry, also visitor’s marketing manager for SIL’s lingerie division. will convene at the Porte de Versailles on the same dates. All exhibitors and VIP visitors to the salon also will be getting some star treat- At Première Vision, Europe’s foremost fabric fair — which will be held at ment with the salon’s new free, around-the-clock concierge service, with represen- Villepinte exhibition halls Feb. 19 to 22, together with yarns and trimmings fairs tatives available in the show’s VIP room or by phone. Expofi l and Mod’Amont and Le Cuir à Paris — organizers said visitor attendance “The idea is to relieve visitors and exhibitors of all of those little things that can from North America has remained steady while visitors from Japan are on the rise. waste time, from missing elements needed to set up the stands to getting a broken “We didn’t lose any terrain on the international market,” said Philippe Pasquet, heel fi xed or reserving a restaurant,” said Mompo. “We aim to provide a more per- Première Vision’s chief executive offi cer. According to Pasquet, the show’s strong sonalized approach to service.” momentum would spill into next season, driven by exceptional product offering as Franchises will be one of the main talking points at the salon, with a number of well as Première Vision’s position “at the top of designers’ lists” when it comes to conferences lined up on the subject as well as consultants on hand to advise visitors fabric shows across the map. and exhibitors alike on new methods of distribution. According to Pasquet, although the economics of the ethical textile category “We’ll be highlighting all those exhibitors open to new franchise opportunities don’t equal the throng of media attention, it remains an increasingly important cat- with the idea of encouraging alternative distribution channels,” Mompo said. egory at the show. “It’s not just a fashion trend,” he said. “It’s a real movement that Meanwhile, a handful of smaller fashion trade fairs throughout the capital also is following more environmental awareness in the world today.” will take place around the same time as the runway shows. Workshop Paris will be Running concurrently with Première Vision, Texworld, a fair organized by Messe held at Le Cercle Republican and Hotel Regina Feb. 27 to March 2, while Paris Sur Frankfurt featuring less expensive textiles, will show its offering at Le Bourget ex- Mode, to be held Feb. 29 to March 3, will pitch tents in the Tuileries Gardens to join hibition hall Feb. 18 to 21. Organizers plan to continue emphasizing its fi nished Atmosphère d’Hiver and the second session of Premiere Classe, and the Vendôme product section as well as trimmings and other accessories. Luxury Trade show will be held concurrently at the Ritz Hotel and the Park Hyatt At Tranoi, the edgy fashion fair that will be held at the Bourse de Commerce, Vendome. Le Showroom will occupy Espace Richelieu Feb. 27 to March 2. Avenue Montaigne and Palais de la Bourse Feb. 28 to March 2, accessories also — With contributions from Katya Foreman

Accessories are becoming a focal point at Who’s Next will many shows. run Jan. 24 to 27. WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 7

WWD.COM

Organizers in Italy continue to add new events Making Adjustments and change formats to attract buyers. By Luisa Zargani Rebecca Brown, Sissi Rossi accessories, Archivio Privato by Alberto Zambelli, British eyewear brand Linda Farrow The show fl oor at Ideabiella, MILAN — INNOVATIVE FORMATS AND A SUPER Luxe, Carlo Contrada and emerging designers 6267 are part of Milano Unica. focused selection of merchandise are increasingly key among the brands that will be present. elements for the success of a trade exhibition today. “The group of companies we are working with has New appointments appear on the Italian trade strong common traits: stylistic identity and quality show calendar every season, but competition is ap- product,” said Agostino Poletto, marketing director parently not a deterrent, as long as the vision is clear of Pitti Immagine. Poletto said exhibitors have con- and the location is valid. In addition, the contours be- solidated businesses with prestigious boutiques and tween women’s and men’s clothing collections appear department stores around the world; have “signifi - increasingly blurred. Pitti Immagine is launching a cant sales volumes,” and, though they may at times be women’s exhibition, Pitti W Woman Precollection, under the press radar, are “well known by trendsetters which will run alongside long-established men’s wear and scouting journalists and buyers.” show Pitti Uomo in Florence Jan. 9 to 12; in Milan, Raffaello Napoleone, chief executive offi cer of Pitti women’s ready-to-wear show White is introducing Immagine, said, “The market requested Pitti W to us White Homme, which will comprise men’s collections and the response to this exhibition is in line with our and accessories and women’s pre-collections of cloth- goals. It’s an experiment that is already giving us a lot ing and accessories, Jan. 14 to 16; Fiera di Vicenza is of satisfaction.” working on a new annual high-end jewelry exhibition White founder Massimiliano Bizzi said, “The sec- in Milan called About J, scheduled for March 2 to 4. tor is greatly evolving and companies tell us that they “We are convinced that fairs are even more im- need modern exhibitions, new in terms of selection and

A model at the Vicenzaoro jewelry show.

Mipel will run Feb. 28 to March 2. For the fi rst time in years, Mipel will not exactly coincide with Micam, the international footwear exhibition, which is sched- uled Feb. 26 to 29. “We have decided to remain hooked onto the Sunday, because this remains a fundamental day for our exhibitors who work very well on Sundays with The show fl oor of Moda In at Milano Unica. Italian clients,” said Muzzolon. In September, the two fairs will be separated by only one day, which suits Mipel organizers better. “The one-day gap is physi- portant than in the past, but not in the same format image.” Bizzi attributed these factors to the success of ological and helps Micam visitors check out Mipel, as and not the same way as before,” said Maurizio Castro, White, which recorded a 15 percent increase in visitors well,” said Muzzolon. Mipel will also once again stay general director at Fiera di Vicenza, which also orga- over last season, reaching a total of close to 10,000. “We open until 10 p.m. on Friday to allow more buyers to nizes Vicenzaoro. “They should be less about [product] have diversifi ed our product offer, including a limited attend both shows. “This has been a successful initia- exhibitions, and more about offering a commercial di- number of innerwear and footwear brands, for example, tive,” said Muzzolon. rection. Each show should be recounted as a story,” he but [remain] very much design-oriented,” said Bizzi. Paolo Zegna, president of textile show Milano Unica, said, noting that About J will be business-oriented. Bizzi said he keeps his ears close to the ground and also made reference to the currency factor. Zegna ex- Fiera di Vicenza is in the midst of an overhaul, as described the organization as “realistic.” To cut costs pressed some caution, given the signals coming from the management structure has entirely changed with for exhibitors, for example, Bizzi said White Homme countries such as the U.S. and Japan, caused by the the recent privatization of the company. Vicenzaoro keeps its length to just three days, instead of four. weakening of their currencies compared with the euro, Winter will open Jan. 13 to 20 with a new name, which “Also, the fact that the same company is allowed to but was pleased to say exhibitors from emerging coun- will be revealed at a press conference next month. show both its men’s wear collection and its women’s tries grew 10 percent in September compared with “We rediscussed our strategies and realized that wear pre-collection at the same booth is a way to re- February 2007, citing China, Hong Kong, South Korea, Vicenzaoro was too commercial and homogenous,” duce the expenditures a company faces during such Poland and Romania. The sixth edition of Milano Unica, said Castro, who joined the organization in May. “We events,” said Bizzi, noting that this is a moment where which comprises Ideabiella, Ideacomo, Moda In, Prato are aiming at a more specialized exhibition aiming at fi rms are especially cost-conscious. Expo and Shirt Avenue, is set for Feb. 12 to 15. different market segments.” “Although trade exhibitions have lost some ap- “This past edition was particularly well received,” At the end of the year, organizers plan to also add peal, they continue to be a fundamental moment for a said Zegna. “Exhibitors were pleased with the relation- another show, likely in Barcelona, Paris or Antwerp, company,” said Mauro Muzzolon, general secretary of ships created and Unica, once again, confi rmed the va- Belgium. AIMPES, the Italian leather goods association that or- lidity of the strategy aiming at positioning the exhibition Vicenzaoro Spring, running May 17 to 21, will also ganizes Mipel, the industry’s exhibition. “It’s the only in the medium-high range of the textile market.” change name and target. “It will be more about bridg- moment in a limited time frame that allows a large Echoing other organizers, Zegna pointed to the impor- ing the gap between consumer and production and be number of buyers to meet up.” Muzzolon said one way tance of services, layout and communication, investing in more about innovation,” said Castro, adding that Fiera to maintain the show’s draw is to focus on a high-end promotion and marketing actions in emerging markets. di Vicenza is aiming at increasingly becoming more quality product. “Of course, the [euro-dollar] currency “We are currently studying a number of projects and specialized in jewelry and luxury. In accordance, the woes are infl uential and clients grumble about the events, aimed at two objectives,” said Zegna. “The fi rst exclusive exhibition Luxury and Yachts will move from strong euro, but in the end they want a quality prod- will allow our clients around the world to increasingly Verona to Vicenza next year. “And we plan to make it uct,” said Muzzolon. “There is a strong demand to see the added value of Italian fabrics, and the second, even more exclusive,” said Castro. show at Mipel, there is an increase in requests that is less immediate but substantial, is to convey the cultural Pitti W Woman Precollection is expected to show 40 comforting, and a number of exhibitors that have been background lying behind our history, tradition, know- international brands. Organizers said Mulberry, Cacharel, absent for a while are coming back.” how, technological evolution and passion,” said Zegna. 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007

SECTION II

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Eco-conscious fashion lines are becoming more prevalent at shows. Turbulent Times Cooperation and competition reign in Germany.

By Damien McGuinness BERLIN — WITH SHOWS APPEARING AND DISAP- pearing with startling regularity, the German scene certainly likes to keep the industry on its toes. And this coming season is no different. New shows in Berlin and Düsseldorf, and increased consumer confidence, are raising hopes that the German market, the largest in Europe, is on the move. Is upstart Berlin the country’s brash new fashion cen- ter? Or can Düsseldorf remain the place where the in- enough money and time to wait to see what happens.” art with fashion by showing between 25 and 30 avant- dustry actually gets down to business? After years of She believes that this coming season will be make garde designers to press and industry visitors in three growing competition, and at times outright antipathy, or break for Berlin’s reputation as a serious place to galleries along the Torstrasse in Mitte. Other galleries the two cities may now be making an uneasy truce. do business. Her Ideal show will run from Jan. 31 to in the area will be open to the public with fashion- Maybe there is room for both after all. Feb. 2. related exhibitions. “Berlin’s turning into the big glamorous kickoff But Bachelin remains confi dent about Berlin’s na- “The idea is to go back to how fashion was displayed event which starts the season, and then its off to the scent fashion week. “I was disappointed by last sea- in Berlin in the Twenties and Thirties,” said Sven showrooms in Düsseldorf,” said Premium’s co-founder son’s visitor fi gures,” she said, “but all our exhibitors Krüger. “Back then, people would just wander round Anita Bachelin. “It’s here [to Berlin] are coming back, and we had amaz- designers’ ateliers.” that people now come to party, talk, Backstage at ing feedback from buyers, so it can’t As far as the IMG Mercedes-Benz catwalk shows see new things and be inspired. the Premium have been that bad.” are concerned, fi nal numbers of participants and loca- Then you make appointments to runway shows. And indeed, despite a low turn- tions have yet to be announced. And despite a certain see people in the showrooms in out, exhibitors and buyers at last amount of skepticism among industry professionals in Düsseldorf, where you wouldn’t nec- season’s Premium did say they were Berlin, according to IMG Fashion’s director of public essarily make new clients, but can very happy with the quality of visi- relations, Zach Eichman, the event will be taking place spend time with your existing ones.” tors and the professionalism of the in both January and July. What will certainly help Berlin show itself. In Düsseldorf, meanwhile, the Igedo company, as a location is fashion week’s early The next Premium will expand which will be holding their four-in-one trade show date. IMG Mercedes-Benz Fashion its Green Area of environmentally concept (women’s wear at CPD, men’s wear at HMD, Week Berlin, which premiered last friendly fashion, will launch a new orders at Global Fashion and bodywear at Body Look) season, will be held from Jan. 27 to “Uberdenim” section of upper-range from Feb. 10 to 12, feels unthreatened by competition 31, followed by Premium, from Feb. denimwear and promises more big- from Berlin. “Düsseldorf has once again established a 1 to 3, with a whole range of other name brands. The show will present fi rm footing,” said Igedo chief executive offi cer Frank shows to run alongside. 850 collections, compared with last Hartmann. “It remains the number-one choice for the But considering how low buyer season’s 800. German and central European market.” traffi c was during the summer, is it Alongside Premium, also from However, for many buyers, Düsseldorf’s remaining wise to spread events over an entire Feb. 1 to 3, Norbert Klauser, head relevance is more down to the city’s impressive number week? Premium attracted 13,822 of the fashion agency Klauser, will of showrooms, rather than CPD itself. During the show visitors, a drop from the previous launch a new women’s wear collec- season, more than 3,000 labels are presented in some season’s record-breaking 15,647. tion, Stark Women. Located in the 800 showrooms. And despite CPD’s recent innovations And the fourth Ideal Showroom at former Vitra Design Museum in the (the increased number of progressive labels in the Café Moskau had only 1,500 visitors hip Prenzlauer Berg district of east- “Style & Signatures” section, for example, has helped to see the 100 avant-garde designers ern Berlin, the show will be spread rejuvenate the fair somewhat), traffi c at CPD remained on show there. The worry is that, with a longer fashion over 100,000 square feet of fl oor space. low. Back in 2001, CPD alone managed to attract more week, visitor frequency will be spread even more thinly “The dates for Berlin couldn’t be better,” said than 50,000 visitors, whereas at last summer’s event, than was the case last season. Klauser. “It’s very important we all work together the four shows together had 42,600 — still a respectable “As far as buyer-visitor fi gures went, it was the worst and make Berlin a fantastic warm-up event for the number, but for many exhibitors, particularly smaller season ever. Those are simply the facts and there’s no German season.” and newer labels, buyers were few and far between. getting round that,” said Ideal’s founder Sumi Ha. “We For more cutting-edge fashion, Projekt Galerie In a bid to boost Düsseldorf ’s profi le, Mark McGuire, need some pretty big changes, and quickly. Nobody has Showrooms, held Jan. 31 to Feb. 2, will be combining formerly of the giant streetwear show Bread & Butter, WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 9

WWD.COM

Germany is the largest market in Europe. Premium will run Feb. 1 to 3. will be launching a new trade fair for contemporary fashion. WEARe will be located on the same fairgrounds as CPD, but in a separate area (Hall 8B), and will aim to attract a very different type of visitor — one reason why the event will start two days before CPD. Running from Feb. 8 to 10, the last day of WEARe will coincide with the fi rst day of CPD. The show wants to pick up where Bread & Butter left off when it moved to Barcelona, and aims to cater to the sophisticated streetwear market in Northern, Central and Eastern Europe. “We want to provide a cool atmosphere, but with a bit less party and a lot more business than Bread & Butter,” said McGuire. “Bread & Butter has turned into an event cater- ing to Southern Europe, and we really need a platform for Northern Europe.” While Berlin and Düsseldorf push forward with new events, a scrap has broken out in Munich between Munich Fashion Fair WoMen and new competitor Munichfashion. women, which was held for the fi rst time last season. George von Berger, ceo of Munich Fashion Fair WoMen, has can- celed his coming show and said he will be taking the organiz- ers of Munichfashion.women to court for plagiarism. “They have copied our name and with one blow have man- aged to destroy what we have spent fi ve years building up,” von Berger said. But Corina Klippel, ceo of Munichfashion.company, which organizes Munichfashion. women, and a former employee of von Berger, is unperturbed and plans to go ahead with the second edition of the women’s wear show from Feb. 23 to 26. “These are just sour grapes,” she said, adding that the fash- ion industry is full of events with similar names. Less controversial is the huge sportswear show Ispo Winter (Jan. 27 to 30), which takes up almost 2 million square feet of space and is already completely sold out. Also doing well is the JAM, or Jeans Affair Munich, which premiered last July and is scheduled to be held again Jan. 27 to 28. Last season 80 exhibitors were present, and so far more than 100 have booked for January, including Freesoul, Bench, Firetrap and True Religion. 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007

SECTION II

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Top Dog

Bread & Butter Barcelona dominates the Spanish trade fair sector.

By Barbara Barker A bolero and bikini by Custo Barcelona at Bread & Butter Barcelona. BARCELONA — SPAIN’S FASHION-CONSCIOUS trade fair sector is floundering — with one big excep- tion. Bread & Butter Barcelona is on top of its game. The Berlin-organized sportswear and contemporary apparel show, featuring more than 1,000 brands, keeps getting bigger, and by definition some say, better. Reportedly, January’s exhibition space will stretch from 1.1 million to 1.7 million square feet, but a spokes- man said those fi gures have yet to be confi rmed. The fi fth edition, held July 4 to 6, burst the Montjüic fairground’s vintage halls with a record-breaking 91,000 visitors — double the previous year. Sixty-fi ve percent were foreigners from 99 countries, according to founder and managing director Karl-Heinz Müller, with major buying groups from Spain/Portugal, Italy, Germany, the U.K. and France, and “signifi cant” rep- resentation from Russia and Japan. B&BB’s upcoming event, which runs Jan. 16 to 18, will increase fl oor space with at least two additional halls, Montjüic’s Pabellón 6 and 7, and new categories: The Source, made up of roughly 100 international tex- tile vendors, and Off-Show, a grouping of established brands and newer quality lines. A third hall was still under negotiation at press time. More space does not necessarily translate into increased exhibitors, a spokesman said. “There won’t be a surge in vendors. Instead, organizers are betting on more halls and new classifi cations like textiles, young talents and suppliers to broaden the CUSTO PHOTOS BY MATTI HILLIG; AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA BY JUAN ECHEVERRIA; SIMM BY CARLOS DE ANDRES CARLOS ECHEVERRIA; JUAN SIMM BY RUIZ DE LA BY PRADA HILLIG; AGATHA MATTI CUSTO PHOTOS BY Custo visual merchandiser Carlos Rivera with a fair’s customer base,” the spokesman said. Runway presentations feature Spanish manufactur- model at Bread & Butter In addition, B&BB will offer art exhibitions in the ers and designers who are strong in bridal, including Barcelona in July. neighboring Mies van de Rohe Pavilion and runway Rosa Clará and Jesús del Pozo, but the week’s high- space in the Palau Nacional, the undisputed jewel in light is Pronovias’ evening show with exclusive mini the fairgrounds’ crown, built in 1929 for the World’s collections by Valentino and Elie Saab. Fair and restored a few years ago by Italian architect Reportedly the largest bridalwear manufacturer in Gae Aulenti. With a seating capacity of up to 2,100, the world, Pronovias invited 1,800 specialty retailers catwalk presentations will take place four times daily, from 73 countries (30 more than 2006) to its hometown sources said. last June for a preview of 2008. Mainly customers from In general, exhibitors are bullish about the fair’s ef- the multinational corporation’s rapidly expanding fectiveness. “B&BB is an advanced fashion show with global network, the guest list included 250 retailers all the trends. It validates what you’re doing for next from the U.S. and Canada. season; we need to be here,” said Barbara Fusco, a Meanwhile, attendance and vendor fi gures at the principal of Paco Gil, an upscale women’s shoe manu- Ifema-organized Madrid fashion fairs are taking a dive. facturer based in Elda, Spain. “Retailers are sharp, For example, the biannual SIMM fair, which ran high-end boutiques,” she added. “There is a different Aug. 31 to Sept. 2 in the Madrid fairgrounds, drew clientele and a higher level of stores at this fair.” 16,788 visitors, down 13 percent over last September’s Barcelona Bridal Week, held once yearly, in- show, and exhibitor participation slid 7.5 percent from cludes the Pasarela Gaudí Novias catwalk shows and the previous year to 811. Noviaespaña, the concurrent trade fair. Next year’s Vendors at the Modacalzado shoe show, held at the dates are May 27 to June 1 in Barcelona’s Montjuïc end of September in the Spanish capital’s fairgrounds, 2 fairgrounds. According to fair organizer Flaqué dropped to 570 or roughly 75 fewer exhibitors than last Internacional, roughly 130 vendors representing 200 fall’s show. One exhibitor who didn’t wish to be named brands are expected to participate on increased fl oor ventured a reason why: “The concept of trade fairs is space of 322,800 square feet. This year’s three-day changing. Buyers are bored with macrofairs. There’s a event drew upward of 12,000 visitors. trend in Europe toward mixed-merchandise combination WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 11

WWD.COM

fairs, like Bread & Butter,” she said. Modacalzado and the Iberpiel leather goods show, which ran in tandem, drew 17,212 trade visitors, a 13 percent drop over last September. Foreign attendees totaled 3,093 — comparable to the March edition. According to Pola Iglesias, director of Madrid’s fashion-related fairs, “All European fashion events are struggling, with both apparel and footwear sectors down, and anybody that says otherwise is fi bbing,” she said. Iglesias cited weak consumer spending and a vol- A look by atile dollar as major reasons for the less-than-robust Agatha fi gures, and added, “Bread & Butter Barcelona is hurt- Ruiz de la ing us; we’re suffering because of them. Prada at the “Domestic buying power is more concentrated; buy- September The SIMM ers are purchasing for more stores, which accounts for Cibeles trade show less foot traffi c,” Iglesias said. On the other hand, for- runway fl oor in eign visitors, except from Portugal, have remained con- shows. September. stant and, in general, exhibitors are happy with sales. “Nobody has said they won’t come back next year.” Another problem erod- ing the health of her shows, Iglesias said, is the setting up of temporary hotel showrooms by upscale domestic brands during fair dates, which draws buyer attention away from es- tablished trade venues. “It’s much cheaper and a cozier way to sell,” she said. “Then again, in the case of Modacalzado, Spanish retailers that shop the Milan (Micam) show don’t nec- essarily need our fair, too.” For the fi rst time in SIMM history, summer 2008 dates have been pushed up — from its tra- ditional September slot to July 17 to 19. “We can’t be the last fashion fair in Europe. To be important, we have to show ear- lier,” Iglesias said. Because of the change in dates, Madrid Fashion Week’s Pasarela Cibeles catwalk shows will be tacked on to the SIMM run for the last time. Cibeles will take place in Retiro Park, Feb. 11 to 15. A spokesman for director Cuca Solana’s office said plans for next season have yet to be fi nalized. No details were available. Generally speaking, Cibeles is small in impact, without the glam generated by international supermodels. The September edition featured 36 designers, fi ve more than last year, and the upcoming February event is ex- pected to be about the same An upstart addition to the Madrid trade fair calendar, Plural Fashion showcased con- temporary Asian products, par- ticularly tops, shoes, jewelry and children’s wear from nine countries including China, India, Thailand, Bangladesh and Indonesia. The second- season event, with only 90 booths, gives small local shops a chance to buy rapid-turnover Asian merchandise, Iglesias said, noting the favorable equation of quality and price. “It’s a small fair with a future,” she said. Plural Fashion, which took place Oct. 25 to 27 in the Madrid fairgrounds, drew more than 3,000 visitors. The event was perked up with displays of re- gional Asian cooking and dances. The next edition is scheduled for May 22 to 24. Madrid fairs unveiled Ifema’s much ballyhooed new layout which, with open stands, galac- tic lighting and brands grouped according to category and prod- uct philosophy, was generally well received by both retailers and exhibitors. 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007

SECTION II

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS

ITKIB’s efforts have been successful to the ex- tent that they have raised the profi le of the coun- try’s homegrown talent. “Either alone or jointly, [Turkish manufacturers] carry on their attempt to establish retail shops,” Higher Profile said Bulent Unal, chairman of TUYAP, which orga- nizes a raft of trade events in Istanbul. “They recog- Turkish fashion execs seek to boost nize the importance of design and creation.” Even if the country remains a key location for the visibility of their industry. sourcing, with fashion consumption on the rise at home, Turkey’s fairs are courting more interna- By Robert Murphy tional brands to exhibit. At the next edition of IF, which runs Feb. 7 to 9, Orundas said more interna- UNDER PRESSURE FROM CHINESE AND INDIAN MANUFACTURING tional brands would be present than in the past. muscle, Turkey’s trade show organizers are emphasizing the nimble nature of “IF now has potential buyers from different the country’s textile industry to seduce international buyers in search of higher- countries and segments,” Orundas said. “We are try- quality goods. ing to charm international buyers. And the designer At the same time, they are reaping benefi ts from improving economic condi- area is becoming well known.” tions at home, which have created a more attractive and stable environment for The show expects to showcase some 450 exhibi- international investors and higher domestic spending. tors and draw as many as 30,000 visitors. The European Commission, which has been examining Turkey’s bid for mem- To further bolster the fair’s profi le, Orundas bership to the trading bloc, upgraded the country’s economy from emerging status said IF had organized various fashion shows and to a full-functioning market economy just two years ago. diversifi ed its advertising campaigns to court buy- Through the fi rst nine months of this year, exports grew by 14.4 percent to $80 bil- A fashion show at the Istanbul ers from Turkey’s neighboring countries. Road lion, and economists forecast continued strength through the end of the year. Last year, Leather Fair. shows to England, Russia, the Czech Republic and Turkey’s textile and apparel exports gained 4 percent to just under $20 billion. Hungary or Poland are also being planned. Still, not all indicators are favorable. In particular, companies are under pres- TUYAP, which organizes shows that include the Istanbul Leather Fair; the sure from the sinking value of the dollar, with Turkey’s currency, the lira, trading International Knitting, Embroidery Hosiery Machines, Side Industries and at close to a six-year high. Accessories Fair; the Istanbul Yarn Fair, and the Textile Machinery Fair, also is “Exporters are having diffi culty reaching the same amount of profi ts that increasing visibility. they earned before,” said Gul Orundas, CNR Expo’s international marketing The company is expanding by opening a new 200,000-square-foot exhibit hall supervisor. (CNR organizes the Istanbul Fashion Fair, or IF, and the Istanbul that is slated to be fi nished by spring 2009. International Textile and Accessories Fair.) On the other hand, Orundas said the “Istanbul is now the biggest meeting point of the Eurasia region,” said Unal. high value of the Turkish lira has brought a fl ood of imports. “There are a series of very important and competitive trade fairs in Turkey. This “Sales are increasing and famous brands are opening shops every day in being the situation, if producers want to have their share of the market, they will Turkey. Most of them have buying offi ces in Turkey, too. There is huge interest in consider coming to fairs in Turkey a priority.” luxury items and fashion thanks to the economic situation.” Unal said Turkey has particular appeal today for companies that need to man- Though Turkey is best known as a go-to location for sourcing, particularly for ufacture products rapidly. “The proximity of Turkey has become an important cotton and denim items, strident efforts have been made, largely with the help of advantage in trade with European Union countries, which make up almost 85 government fi nancing, to build brands. percent of Turkey’s garment exports,” he said. “A serious amount of production For instance, ITKIB, a government-sponsored textile and apparel commission, of important European brands has been moved to Turkey and this brings an ad- has allocated aid to promising designers through its so-called Turquality program. ditional dynamism to the market.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 13

WWD.COM

Rooms will run Feb. 12 to 14. Different Strokes In Japan, the goal is to offer a unique experience to attendees and exhibitors.

By Koji Hirano its headquarters and will start JFW Japan Creation, or JFWJC, under cooperation with Fashion Strategy TOKYO — JAPANESE EXHIBITION ORGANIZERS Forum, the organizers of Japan Fashion Week. are working to make their events a must-stop show- Akira Kawashima, senior director of JFWJC, com- JFWJC under the new schedule will run April 23 to case on the global trade show calendar. mented that the major change with the new fair is to 25, also at Tokyo Big Sight. With the Japanese economy on an upswing and “readjust our viewpoint to the buyers’ one.” Meanwhile, International Fashion Fair will be its fashion sector churning out young, unique talent, JC has typically been held twice a year — in May held at Tokyo Big Sight from Jan. 23 to 25. The show’s industry executives are hoping that buyers will take and December — but starting after its next show, Creator’s Village segment exhibits original and cre- notice and head to Japan. scheduled for Dec. 5 to 7 at Tokyo Big Sight, JFWJC ative brands of new designers to distributors and spe- “Scarcity value [offering something no one else will be exhibited in April and October. The fi rst cialty stores. does] is the must-have for exhibitions to attract good exhibitors and buyers,” said Mika Sato, producer of Rooms, Japan’s cutting- edge trade show best known for featuring new designers and interesting collabora- tions with artists. This past August, Rooms showcased 270 brands in- cluding 72 foreign brands and 118 newcomers. More than 11,000 people visited the show. For its next show at Tokyo’s Yoyogi National Stadium from Feb. 12 to 14, Rooms has created a new team to initiate “another phase of creativeness of the event,” said Sato. “Rooms has been enjoying a good reputation for its unique and interesting selection of the vendors, but what we need now is our own air for visi- tors to breathe,” said Sato. “Tokyo is defi nitely one of the most interesting cit- ies in the world now, and we want to appeal to Tokyo’s feeling,” said Sato. With its unique varieties of exhibi- tors and gimmicks, “in the near future we want to have 30,000 visitors including from overseas,” Sato said, adding, “We will again work on some artists other than fashion designers.” Frontier, a casualwear trade show scheduled for Jan. 22 to 24 at Yoyogi National Stadium, special- izes in immediate busi- ness as opposed to future trends. “We will stick to the casual clothes for the clos- est season, and move to the global stage,” said Takashi Yoshioka, producer of the event. This fall, Frontier is holding its first show in Hong Kong, scheduled for Nov. 20 to 21. “This is a challenging event from our study that many buyers to our shows are from Asian countries.” Seven exhibi- tors from Japan along with international vendors from and the U.S., among others, are expected to meet visitors from about 300 to 400 invited fi rms, ac- cording to Yoshioka. Frontier is also showcas- ing the exhibitors’ goods on the Internet, where buyers can view the latest trends about what is actually sell- ing in the real market. Japan Creation, a trade fair featuring fabric and textile goods, reorganized 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007

SECTION II

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Buzzwords Environmental and safety issues are front and center for Asia’s fashion sector.

By Constance Haisma-Kwok production. For the spring fair we have arranged a seminar with Bureau Veritas, which will discuss this HONG KONG — AS 2008 DRAWS NEAR, ASIA’S TRADE issue and lead us in talks about safety,” he said. industry finds itself addressing three topics: the in- Perrine Ardouin, senior event manager of the Asia troduction of Macau as a major player on the exhibi- Pacifi c Leather Fair (March 31 to April 2), said that tion circuit, environmental issues and the safety of while safe production and environmental issues are Chinese-produced goods. always a concern, “It’s nothing new for tanners and the Worry about the latter certainly is having an effect, leather industry.” as evidenced by the recent Canton Fair. China’s larg- She said including seminars on such topics as est trade show closed at the end of October with an REACH (the new European regulation on the use of 8.3 percent drop in overall attendance. On the heels of chemicals) and RSL, or Restricted Substance Lists, much-publicized recalls, attendance by American buy- helps promote discussion about these topics, but even ers fell 10 percent. Although there was a 3 percent rise more important is communication between buyers and in the value of orders at the Canton Fair, organizers manufacturers. were still left defending China-made goods. “In general, problems arise when you are selling “Chinese exports are all safe,” said Xu Bing, the huge quantities of lower-end products,” said Ardouin. fair’s vice secretary general. “This doesn’t happen in smaller quantities because the For those in the garment, textile and accessories working relationship between the buyer and the sup- trade, safety concerns might not be as prevalent as for plier is so important. And because these businesses those working in toys or food, but there is still evidence are related to expensive materials and fashion, the of newfound awareness at shows. At the most recent manufacturers are very aware and better prepared. editions of the China Sourcing Fair, which introduces There is no point in [smaller manufacturers] trying to Chinese producers of fashion accessories, underwear cheat anyone, they will lose their business,” she said. and swimwear to an international market, many jew- While safe production is one issue expected to have elry manufacturers displayed prominent signs declar- an effect at Asia’s fairs, the growing trend is a focus on ing that “no nickel” or “no lead” is used in production. environmental issues. Interstoff Asia Essentials (March Tommy Wong, general manager of China Sourcing 12 to 14), which highlighted recycled, organic and en- Fairs for Global Sources, said, “There is no question vironmentally friendly fabrics during its autumn edi- that both buyers and suppliers are aware of this situ- tion, will add a new categorization for eco-textiles in The China Sourcing Fair has added ation. They are spending a lot more time discussing the coming spring. Katy Lam, general manager of trade swimwear and innerwear to its lineup. Photo : Yael Levy Photo

FROM 24th TO 27th JANUARY 2008 - PARIS EXPO - PORTE DE VERSAILLES - HALL 5 www.bijorhca.com - Tel. +33 (0)1 47 56 52 82 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 15

WWD.COM

fairs for Messe Frankfurt, which organizes a mix of trade and high-net-worth individuals The show Interstoff Asia, said the goal is to “clearly [at the show],” he said. fl oor at identify which aspects of the fabric are eco- In June, Neway Fairs will also put on a October’s friendly. Currently we are only using the jewelry show in Macau, JMA Macau (June China green or silver leaf logos, but the new label- 14 to 17), but garment and textile producers Sourcing ing will cover raw materials, manufacturing aren’t looking to make a move just yet. Fair. processes and fi nishing processes,” she said, “It is highly unlikely that Messe Frankfurt noting the rapid development of this aspect will host textile or garment fairs in Macau, of the fair. “The evolution of Interstoff Asia which is far better suited for consumer prod- Essential as a…sourcing ground for textile uct fairs,” said Lam. buyers with a green conscience has happened So, while jewelry fair organizers test the fairly quickly. It’s a process we intend to ac- waters in Macau, the garment, textile, acces- tively cultivate and promote,” she said. sories and footwear industries are sticking Interstoff Asia Essential will also unveil with Hong Kong and China. new labeling for functional fabrics. “The In Hong Kong, the addition of underwear Taiwan Textile Federation has identifi ed and and swimwear to the China Sourcing Fair described 28 different functions in its system (April 12 to 15) has proved a hit: Buyers can and we will use that system to label fabrics at expect to fi nd eight specialized product pa- the show,” said Lam. vilions in the Fashion Accessories sector as Attendees of Prime Source (March 31 well as an expanded underwear and swim- to April 2), the apparel industry’s annual wear hall. “We’re anticipating a 30 percent forum in Hong Kong, can expect both safety increase in size,” said Global Sources’ Wong. and the environment to be major topics of Also in Hong Kong, APLF will showcase discussion alongside industry concerns over 1,500 exhibitors. Ardouin said, “Footwear trade with China at the end of 2008, when is an important sector that has suffered in European quotas and American safeguards recent years, but we are anticipating more will no longer apply. footwear at the next show — especially from The event is endorsed by the American Latin America and Europe.” Apparel & Footwear Association and Leather manufacturers will also be able to Europe’s Foreign Trade Association and is fi nd a new addition: the MMT Design Zone, expected to draw about 500 participants who which introduces pattern designers to sup- will be able, for the fi rst time, to opt to join pliers. The fair’s popular Design-a-Bag com- topical workshops. Topics, not yet confi rmed, are likely in January, the Macau Jewellery and Watch Fair (Jan. petition will also feature more categories and the par- to include branding and franchising, intellectual prop- 10 to 13). ticipation of several sponsors, including Saga Furs. erty, radio frequency identifi cation, restrictive sub- Duck said that so far industry insiders are hearing Elsewhere, it’s worth noting that fi ber and yarn fair stances and security. positive things about the new venue. “As far as organi- SPINEXPO (Feb. 27 to 29) will be held at a new venue, In the meantime, Michael Duck, senior vice presi- zation goes, so far there have been no problems — ev- the Shanghai Pudong Expo, while CHIC, the China dent of CMP Asia, which organizes both Prime Source eryone is very professional. It’s going to be interesting International Clothing and Accessories Fair (March 28 and APLF, is also keeping an eye on Macau, where in terms of visitors. We have to see how they’ll take to to 31), will for the fi rst time showcase women’s, men’s the recent opening of The Venetian’s mammoth exhi- the venue,” he said. and children’s apparel concurrently. The event will bition center has had an immediate impact on trade Duck said one tactic CMP Asia is taking is to make take place at the New China International Exhibition in the region. CMP Asia will hold its fi rst show there the fair open to trade and public alike. “There will be Centre in Beijing.

fieramilanocity Carlo Magno Gate 21-24 February 2008 aplus Women’s Prêt à Porter COLLECTIONS AutumnWinter www.milanovendemoda.fieramilanoexpocts.it 20082009 info: +39 0234984433

At the same time under the patronage of 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007

SECTION II

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Fashion Exposed’s Streetlab streetwear area. Business Concerns Australia’s economy is booming, but the fashion sector still has some worries.

By Patty Huntington Launched at Fashion Exposed’s event in September, a — CURRENTLY ENJOYING ITS 16TH new streetwear-denim section called year of uninterrupted economic growth, Australia’s Streetlab is expected to grow 10 to 12 economy is going gangbusters. And the business sec- percent in March in Sydney. Fashion tor is feeling jittery. Exposed’s beach and body area will To try to cool the growth, earlier this month the be up by 15 percent over March 2006. a whole lot of buzz to the fl oor, people get excited.” Reserve Bank raised interest rates for the 10th time “All indicators are that it’s going to be a very He added: “I think defi nitely it is tough, I think the since 2001 — with more on the horizon. Adding to that strong March fair,” said Kinsella. “Our take-up has market has changed. We’ve done well but we’ve had are a drought, which continues to push up food prices, been very high. We could have grown the show, made to be much more assertive. We’ve been smart at sell- and concerns about the potential for a change in gov- it larger to accommodate more demand. But we de- ing and have been adding value to our fairs and it’s ernment after this weekend’s federal election, follow- cided to keep it to the [same size]. That was a deci- come at the expense of competitor fairs. I don’t think ing 11 years under the John Howard administration. sion based on reworking the types of companies in- the market has grown that much. I think you’ll fi nd The jobless rate is at its lowest in three decades, volved. We just want to be a forum with everything that 2008 is going to be a tougher year. If you want to and though Australia might simultaneously be ex- on offer for the fashion retail market and we need to offer value to your visitors or customers you’re going periencing its highest birth rate in more than thirty have a good mix. The retailers need more quality. to have to keep upping the game.” years, that’s little comfort for what is rapidly emerg- “The economy is good; however, we are being very Rosemount Australian Fashion Week is Australia’s ing as a critical labor shortage. much affected by the drought,” she added. “I still highest-profi le fashion show — notably the spring- “We’ve got all these shows we want think it’s pretty tough out there.” summer showcase, whose 13th annual edition will to do and we can’t find the staff,” A look by Reed Exhibitions is also adjust- take place at Sydney’s Overseas Passenger Terminal said Marie Kinsella, managing direc- Alex Perry ing its show offer for 2008 — in from April 28 to May 2. tor of Melbourne-based Australian at RAFW. Reed’s case by dropping its disap- According to communications manager Graeme Exhibitions and Conferences. pointing new Adelaide Gift Trade Lewsey, the spring-summer 2008-2009 event will boast Over the past three years AEC has Fair altogether. The show will re- a similar size and confi guration to 2007: three on-site spun off successful components of its turn in 2009 as a biennial event. runway show tents with capacities for 723, 600 and Fashion Exposed juggernaut into a se- The Sydney Gift Trade Fair took 372, respectively, and an additional 11,000-square- ries of smaller satellite shows. up nearly 167,000 square feet of the foot exhibition space called The Source, with antici- The company is not launching any Sydney Convention and Exhibition pated attendance of 25,000. new fashion shows this year, but for the Centre in February 2007, a 10,700- In May, 80 designers showed on RAFW’s runways, fi rst half of 2008 will both tweak its of- square-foot net increase on the a 4 percent drop from May 2006. Almost half were ferings and value-add to the Fashion February 2006 show, by utilizing four completely new to the event, leading to criticism that Exposed experience by making the tents in the adjacent Tumbalong Park. RAFW is light in terms of talent. show the anchor event of an entire The Melbourne Gift Trade Fair grew Having used RAFW as a springboard, more and fashion festival called Fashion State, 14 percent to 64,600 square feet from more Australasian fashion stars are now bypassing which will comprise up to nine differ- 2006 to 2007. Sydney is currently at Sydney and heading to international runways — a ent events in venues across Sydney, capacity and cannot grow. However, fact that was presumably not lost on the 250 attend- from business seminars to exhibitions. Melbourne is expected to further in- ees of Fashion Group International’s Fashion Flash The new Leather Bags and crease in size this coming year. trend forecasting breakfast last Saturday at Sydney’s Accessories Fair, launched in Exhibitors at the Sydney Gift Sofi tel Wentworth Hotel. February 2006, is being extricated Trade Fair grew 7 percent to 818 Part of FGI’s quadrennial international conference, from the two-year-old Australian Shoe from 2006 to 2007, and Melbourne which was held in Sydney from Nov. 15 to 18, the break- Fair and attached to Fashion Exposed, by 6 percent to 390. Attendance at fast featured a video of seven local designers who had which will run from March 9 to 11 at Melbourne grew by a mere 14 visi- shown their spring collections in New York and Paris: the Sydney Convention Centre, and to tors, to 8,412, while attendance at Jayson Brunsdon, Aurelio Costarella, Willow, Josh Goot, which more than 10,000 attendees are the Sydney show shrank by 3 per- Toni Maticevski, Collette Dinnigan and New Zealander expected, a 10 percent increase from cent to 28,335 in 2007. Karen Walker. According to FGI’s Sydney chapter, it’s March 2006. At almost 54,000 square “I think pretty much many fairs the same video that is currently being shown to the feet, the March LBA will nevertheless in Australia, especially in retail, organization’s 6,000 members across the world. be double the size of the inaugural are tailing downward — but we’re Noted Lewsey of Sydney’s fashion brain drain, LBA show in February 2006. holding fi rm,” said Omer Soker, exhibition director “There are times when those businesses feel the need The Australian Shoe Fair, which runs from Feb. at Reed Gift Fairs. to rejuvenate their Australian markets. We are confi - 15 to 17 at the Sydney Convention Centre, will be the One component that is tracking upward at Reed dent that we will have, yet again, a really good balance same size as February 2006, nearly 81,000 square feet, is fashion-accessories. Once a tiny component of the of established Australian ready-to-wear designers, as with roughly the same exhibitor (150) and attendance company’s Gift Trade Fairs, fashion and accessories well as that emerging sector. We’ve taken onboard feed- (3,000) numbers anticipated. grew from 26 percent of exhibitors at the Sydney Fair back that some businesses were not up to scratch.” At 242,000 square feet, Fashion Exposed and its in 2006 to 33 percent in 2007, according to Soker, who He added, “We do have a priority to continue on high-end Preview component won’t be any bigger expects this segment to continue to perform well. with our Asia-Pacifi c strategy, which really is about than in March 2006. Of the approximately 500 exhibi- “We want to make sure we are providing value in providing a good platform for designers in the region tors that are expected, AEC has cut middle- to lower- each of the segments,” said Soker. “For fashion and to show at RAFW, as a one-stop shop into this market. end exhibitor numbers by 50 percent to maintain the jewelry, we launched fashion parades in February We’re getting lots of inquiries from people saying ‘We quality of the event. 2007 and also did them in Melbourne in August. It adds are interested in showing.’” WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 17

WWD.COM

A look from Nobel Money Matters at NAFFEM. A stronger Canadian dollar causes uncertainty for shows looking to attract U.S. business.

By Brian Dunn tunity to educate customers who might not be aware that it also carries Nine West and Anne Klein, accord- MONTREAL — FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 33 YEARS, ing to sales rep Daniel Doucette. the Canadian dollar is worth more than the greenback, The fi rst week in February is early for women’s which could have both a positive and negative impact suppliers, but organizers didn’t want to confl ict with on the domestic trade show industry, according to a WWDMAGIC later in the month, said Joseph Nutzati number of show representatives. of FashionNorth management. This year alone, the Canadian dollar has appreci- He said the stronger Canadian dollar will make it ated more than 20 percent against its U.S. counterpart, cheaper for U.S. suppliers to sell to Canadian retailers. which has seen a record number of Canadians scur- “I’ve spoken to a number of U.S. suppliers who have rying across the border looking for deals. Four years been sitting on the sidelines, but may come into the ago, when the Canadian dollar was only worth about show now that our dollar is so strong.” 63 cents U.S., American shoppers were heading north. Montreal Fashion Week will be back at Marché Today, it’s trading near the $1.05 range. Bonsecours in Old Montreal from March 10 to 14. “It’s an interesting thought,” said Alice Chee, or- Flush with government money, the show hopes to at- ganizer of the Mode Accessories Show being held at tract more international media and buyers. Toronto’s Doubletree International Plaza Jan. 27 to 29. The Quebec government announced a cash injec- “Most American exhibitors come into the show through tion of $82 million over three years into the sector at their Canadian sales reps and we’re already sold out. the start of the October edition of MFW, including $3 But the stronger dollar may be an advantage to us, be- million to promote Montreal as a fashion center. cause the lines should be a lot cheaper.” “We had about 10 international media and 20 inter- In many cases that hasn’t happened, Chee added, national buyers in October and hope to build on that noting that some products are still being sold at the in March,” said Chantale Durivage, co-president of same price as when the Canadian dollar was worth Sensation Mode, which operates MFW. only 85 cents. Unlike most fashion weeks, MFW is open to both Of greater concern for Chee is the fact there will be local and international designers as a way to promote no Mode Accessories Show in Calgary in 2008, since the city as a fashion center, and has made a number of she’s considering changing venues and possibly cities. contacts in Europe and South America for next March. The Fresh portion is denim-heavy with lines from “Edmonton is an alternative, because that’s where The October 2007 edition of L’Oréal Fashion Week Guess, Parasuco, Buffalo and Phat Pharm, among oth- a lot of Western shows are held, and so is Vancouver. was held in a 30,000-square-foot tent pitched in the ers, and features a lounge area and DJ to keep the But they’re building a new high-end shopping mall in shadow of Toronto City Hall and drew rave reviews, music pumping throughout the show. Calgary, so we may end up moving there.” according to Caroline Quinn of the Fashion Design “We had a lot of fashion shows last year, but we’re going After combining the men’s and women’s show last Council of Canada, which runs the Toronto show. to focus on more seminars in March,” said Micheli. August in an effort to fi nd a balance between the ideal “It was a huge success, which gave us major expo- The North American Fur & Fashion Exhibition dates and venue, FashionNorth will combine the shows sure. We had over 60 designers, including 35 runway takes place April 30 to May 3 at Place Bonaventure again at Toronto’s International Center Feb. 3 to 5. shows, and attendance was also up.” in Montreal. It opens on a Wednesday rather than the “Everybody loves the new concept,” said Ralph Weil Despite the triumphant tent experience, Quinn said traditional Sunday, due to Passover on April 20 and of show organizer Meteor Show Productions, which the same venue has not been confi rmed for the next the Greek Orthodox Easter on April 27, said NAFFEM also puts on the Luggage, Leathergoods, Handbags & show from March 10 to 15. organizer Alan Herscovici, executive vice president of Accessories Show at the International Center April 30 Unlike MFW, the Toronto event is open to the public the Fur Council of Canada. to May 2. “We had 118 exhibitors roughly made up of for $20 a show or $50 for the day, which boosts atten- He said the stronger Canadian dollar will be a “defi - a third men’s wear, a third women’s wear and a third dance fi gures. While L’Oréal Fashion Week manages to nite challenge for the [fur garment] manufacturers who that carry both.” attract major international media exposure, it doesn’t price their goods in U.S. dollars, which means they’re The combined show also attracted new exhibitors, have the same success attracting international buyers. getting less for their furs. including Jones Apparel Group Canada, Levi’s Canada “That’s an area we’re working on to improve for “I hope it won’t have much impact on attendance. and Liz Claiborne, the latter two jumping on board March,” said Quinn. Four years ago, when the [Canadian] dollar was worth when the two shows morphed into one. The idea of combining the two fashion weeks has about 63 cents, hotel rooms were a pretty good deal. “That was a huge incentive for us,” said Liz been broached a number of times over the years, but They’ll be quite a bit more expensive today, but still Claiborne sales manager Mark Castanheiro. “With is not likely to happen anytime soon. That’s because relatively cheap compared to what you would pay in Claiborne, DKNY and Mexx, it gave us an opportunity the two events have rival sponsors — L’Oréal supports New York.” to showcase our better lines that some clients wouldn’t Toronto, while P&G Beauty backs Montreal. While the fur market has had a slow start to the sell- normally see.” But unless one blinks and changes its dates, the two ing season due to an unusually warm fall, Herscovici Levi’s Canada also thought it was convenient to ex- are on a collision course to be competing head to head said fur is still a strong fashion statement, being used hibit at FashionNorth to showcase its men’s and wom- in March. in boutique style furs and accessories more and more. en’s outerwear under the Joseph Abboud, Esprit and The Ontario Fashion Exhibitors Market and 100% “But specialty boutiques are not used to coming Paul Landry labels. Fresh, featuring juniorwear, will be held March 15 to to Canada to buy, because they still think this is only “It provided a good venue for independent retail- 18 at the Toronto Congress Center. Last year’s com- a Canadian show even though 55 percent of our buy- ers who might not normally get to see our lines,” said bined show drew more than 3,000 buyers and around ers are American. There are a lot of items you see at Levi’s sales rep Paul Fournier. 230 exhibitors covering 200,000 square feet, according NAFFEM that you won’t see anywhere else, including For Jones Apparel Group Canada, it was an oppor- to show organizer Serge Micheli. the New York Coterie.” 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007

SECTION II

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS André Lima’s dress. Status Quo Brazilian organizers look to tweak their shows rather than make wholesale changes.

By Michael Kepp RIO DE JANEIRO — MOST BRAZILIAN TRADE SHOW ORGANIZERS AREN’T planning major format changes at their 2008 events, just minor tweaks to better cater to local and foreign buyers. Brazilian fashion and textile fair organizers have, in recent years, done more and more to maintain foreign buyer interest, from creating on-site business salons to pro- viding on-site after hours entertainment. That’s because, since 2003, the dollar has lost 50 percent of its value against the real, making dollar-based Brazilian exports less and less competitive abroad. Still, fashion fair organizers contend that foreign buyer turnout at their events will stay strong because stylists here continue to offer a wide price spread of niche-market apparel hard to fi nd elsewhere. The twice-yearly São Paulo Fashion Week will feature the winter 2008 runway collections of between 42 and 45 stylists at its Jan. 16 to 21 edition, up from 37 at last January’s event. Some 70,000 visitors and 30 foreign buyers are expected at SPFW, about the same numbers as those who attended last January. The fair takes place in the 258,000-square-foot Bienal Cultural Center in São Paulo’s Ibirapuera park. The three-story building boasts four auditoriums for runway shows, as well as restaurants, fashion bookstores and Internet lounges. SPFW will maintain a third-fl oor business salon of more than 70 show- rooms (featuring designers with and without runway shows). At either the January or June edition of SPFW, organizers plan to expand the business salon space into an area currently occupied by a contemporary art museum. Organizers expect this extra space to boost orders above the current level of approximately $400 million per show. SPFW organizer Graça Cabral doesn’t expect the devalued dollar to hurt foreign attendance. “We don’t expect foreign attendance at the January SPFW TAKAHASHI FASOLI/ZE MARCIA ANDRE LIMA BY FERNANDA CALFAT; TEREZA SANTOS PHOTO BY to fall because, although for-export, dollar-based prices have continued to 14,000 visitors and 600 foreign buyers, mostly from Latin rise, Brazil is still dollar-competitive for foreigners, and offers huge diversity America, the same numbers as those registered at the in style and price,” said Cabral. “Also, some Brazilian stylists, some of which year-earlier event. have new investor-owners, are restructuring to better service both domestic In March, Fenatec will allot 30 percent of its fl oor and foreign buyers — be it through after-sales service or shorter delivery space to foreign textile makers, mostly from Asia, and times. Many foreign buyers know this, which is why they’re coming back.” especially China. One of those buyers is Philippe Faucon, the owner of Bossa Nova, a “[Show organizer Reed Exhibition Alcantara Machado, Brussels boutique, who plans to come to the January 2008 edition. “We are or RXAM] plans to keep Fenatec foreign and national buying from lesser-known Brazilian designers who provide good after-sale buyer attendance at stable levels by offering forums about follow-up and who are willing to work with us to arrive at a relationship global textile color tendencies and training workshops between price, quality and creativity that makes buying from them a better A look from for textile retailers, as well as VIP suites and welcoming deal than buying from European stylists,” said Faucon. Tereza Santos. cocktail bars,” said show organizer Ricardo Matrone. Nichi Kashihara, owner of Madame Killer, a New York boutique, also The Couromoda footwear show will also take place at plans to return for the January 2008 SPFW. “Some established Brazilian the Anhembi Park Pavilion. The annual event, to be held brands have prohibitive prices, even though they have highly unique styles and from Jan. 14 to 17, is expected to attract 70,000 visitors, among them 3,200 foreign high quality,” said Kashihara. “But I can still fi nd newer SPFW stylists whose prices attendees, the same number as the January 2007 edition. Organizers expect 1,100 allow me decent margins and whose collections are also one-of-a-kind.” exhibitors this January, 100 less than in 2007, due to smaller shoemakers having While foreign buyers go to SPFW mostly for high-end fashion-forward apparel closed or merged with larger ones, said show organizers. from established designers, they go to Fashion Rio to buy from the less pricy collec- Because of these consolidations, Couromoda will no longer showcase high-end tions of underdog designers. shoes at an adjacent Holiday Inn, nor will the show provide tents for mass market The Jan. 8 to 12 edition of Fashion Rio is expected to draw 80,000 visitors, the same apparel makers, as in years past. as last year, and will feature the winter 2008 collections of some 44 designers. Fernando Pimentel, the head of the Brazilian Association of Brazilian Textile Fashion Rio expects to attract close to 110 foreign buyers, the same number that and Apparel Industries, or ABIT, said native designers will continue to do well here attended the last edition. and abroad. The show will take place inside four tents at the Gloria Marina. Three tents are for In early 2007, ABIT asked the government to extend the caps on eight categories runway shows and the fourth, as in the past, will shelter Fashion Business, a business of Chinese textiles and garments exported to Brazil, set to end in 2008, to help pro- salon for 80 showrooms shared by 150 designers. Show organizers expect the salon to tect the industry. The government in October also began providing new credit lines generate about the same as the $163 million worth of domestic orders and $14 million to fi nance both textile and clothing sectors. in foreign orders placed in January 2007. “Brazilians, with more money in their pockets, increased local textile and fash- The annual Fenatec textile fair will once again take place at São Paulo’s ion sales, and helped compensate for the export diffi culties a devalued dollar Anhembi Park Pavilion. Organizers for the March 11 to 14 Fenatec said some 50 caused the designers and the cheap China imports that adversely impacted the exhibitors will occupy around 120,000 square feet of the 807,000-square-foot pa- textile sector,” said Pimentel. “I believe the domestic market will remain strong vilion, similar numbers to last year’s event. Organizers expect the show to attract through 2008, to the relief of these sectors.”

www.TexworldUSA.com/WWD

REGISTER TODAY! Javits Convention Center, New York City January 22 - 24, 2008 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 19

WWD.COM Calendar All listings were accurate at press time. Please contact individual shows to confirm.

DECEMBER E-mail: [email protected]. Web: whiteshow.it. A look by Jean Crisan at NAFFEM. Nov. 29-Dec. 1, Istanbul 2nd Leather Fair, Tuyap Fair, 14-17, Hong Kong Fashion Week (fall-winter 2008), Convention and Congress Center, Istanbul. Contact: Arzu Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong. Tursun. Tel.: 90-212-8866018. Fax: 90-212-8866715. Contact: Hong Kong Trade Development Council. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: istanbulleather.com. Tel.: 852-1830-668. E-mail: [email protected]. 5-7, JFW Japan Creation, Tokyo Big Sight, Tokyo. Web: hkfashionweekfw.com. Web: japancreation.com. 14-17, World Boutique, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition 6-9, 15th Hong Kong International Jewelry Manufacturers Centre, Hong Kong. Contact: Hong Kong Trade Development Exhibition, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Council. Tel.: 852-1830-668. E-mail: [email protected]. Kong. Contact: Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturer’s Association. Web: worldboutiquehk.com. Tel.: 852-2766-3002. E-mail: [email protected] or 14-17, Couromoda (footwear), Parque Anhembi, Pavilião [email protected]. Web: jewelryshows.org. de Exposições do Anhembi, São Paulo, Brazil. 22-26, Hong Kong Mega Showcase, Hong Kong Convention Contact: Couromoda. Tel.: 55-11-3897-6100. and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong. Contact: Hongkong-Asia Web: couromoda.com.br. Exhibition Holdings. Tel.: 852-2591-9823. 16-18, Bread & Butter Barcelona, Fira Barcelona-Montjuïc E-mail: [email protected]. Web: hka.com.hk. fairgrounds, Barcelona. Contact: Karl-Heinz Müller. Tel.: 49-0-30-400-44-0. Fax: 49-0-30-400-44-101. JANUARY E-mail: [email protected]. 2-4, Canada’s Bridal Show, Metro Toronto Convention Web: breadandbutter.com/winter2008. Center, Toronto. Tel.: 905-264-7000. Fax: 905-264-7300. 16-21, São Paulo Fashion Week, Fundação Bienal São Paulo, E-mail: [email protected]. Parque Ibirapuera, São Paulo, Brazil. Tel.: 55-11-3094- Web: canadasbridalshow.com. 2882. Web: saopaulofashionweek.com.br. 8-12, Fashion Rio, Marina da Glória, Rio de Janeiro. 17-20, Men’s Fashion Collections, Various Locations, Paris. Tel.: 55-21-2537-7122. Web: fashionrio.org.br. Contact: Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des 9-12, Pitti Uomo (men’s wear), Fortezza da Basso, Florence. Couturiers et des Creáteurs de Mode. Tel.: 33-1-42-66-64-44. Contact: Pitti Immagine. Tel.: 39-02-863-462 or 39-055- Fax: 33-1-42-66-94-63. E-mail: [email protected]. 369-31. Fax: 39-02-876-792 or 39-055-3693-200. Web: modeaparis.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: pittimmagine.com. 17-21, International Gift and Jewelry Week including Intergift, 9-12, Pitti W — Woman Precollection (women’s ready-to-wear Iberjoya and Bisutex. Juan Carlos I fairgrounds, Madrid. pre-collections), Dogana di Via Valfonda, Florence. Contact: Pola Iglesias, IFEMA. Tel.: 34-91-722-3000. Contact: Pitti Immagine. Tel.: 39-02-863-462 or 39-055- Fax: 34-91-722-5787. E-mail: [email protected]. 369-31. Fax: 39-02-876-792 or 39-055-3693-200. Web: semanaregalo.ifema.es. E-mail: [email protected]. 18-20, Pitti Immagine Bimbo (children’s wear), Fortezza Web: pittimmagine.com. da Basso, Florence. Contact: Pitti Immagine. Tel.: 39-02- 10-13, Macau Jewelry & Watch Fair, The Cotai Strip 863-462 or 39-055-36931. Fax: 39-02-876792 or Exhibition Centre, The Venetian Hotel, Macau. 39-055-3693200. E-mail: [email protected]. Contact: CMP Asia. Tel.: 852-2516-1657. Web: pittimmagine.com. E-mail: [email protected]. 18-20, Total Wedding Show, International Center, Toronto. 11-13, Spirit of Fashion (underground and alternative Tel.: 905-845-2644. Fax: 905-845-8050. fashion), Arena, Eichenstrasse 4, Kreuzberg-Treptow, Berlin. E-mail: [email protected]. Tel.: 49-40-357-16-548. Fax: 49-40-357-16-428. Web: totalweddingshow.com. Web: spirit-of-fashion.com. 18-21, Macef (housewares, tabletop, jewelry and fashion 12-15, ExpoRivaSchuh (footwear), Riva del Garda, Italy. accessories), Fieramilano, Milan. Contact: Fiera Milano. Contact: ExpoRivaSchuh. Tel.: 39-0464-570153. Tel.: 39-02-485501. Fax: 39-02-48004423. Fax: 39-0464-570130. E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: macef.it. Web: exporivashoe.it. 18-21, Tranoi Homme, Palais de la Bourse, Paris. 12-16, Milano Moda Uomo (men’s rtw), Various locations, Contact: Tranoi. Tel.: 33-1-53-01-84-96. Fax: 33-1-42-71- Tel.: 33-1-42-66-64-44. Fax: 33-1-42-66-94-63. Milan. Contact: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. 07-03. E-mail: [email protected] Web: tranoi.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: modeaparis.com. Tel.: 39-02-777-1081. Fax: 39-02-777-10850. 18-21, Rendez-Vous Homme Collections, Location TBD, Paris. 22-24, Frontier Tokyo, Yoyogi National Stadium, Tokyo. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: cameramoda.it. Contact: Rendez-Vous. Tel.: 33-1-47-03-45-06. Fax: 33-1- E-mail: [email protected]. Web: frontier-j.co.jp. 13-15, Collections, Earls Court, London. Contact: Sylvia 44-61-70-27. E-mail: [email protected]. 23-24, Tracht and Country Classics (country and folkloric Palamoudian. Tel.: 44-0-207-432-9442. Web: rendez-vous-paris.com. apparel), Salzburg fairgrounds, Salzburg, Austria. Web: collections-london.com. 20-22, Belgian and Brussels Fashion Fairs, 86 C Avenue du Contact: Reed Messe Salzburg. Tel.: 43-662-44-77-0. 13-20, Vicenzaoro Winter (gold, gems, fi ne jewelry), Vicenza port, Brussels. Contact: Belgian Fashion Fairs. Tel.: 32-2-370- Fax: 43-662-44-77-161. Web: reedexpo.at. Fairgrounds, Vicenza, Italy. Contact: Fiera di Vicenza. 6016. Fax: 32-2-332-4951. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: bff.be. 23-25, International Fashion Fair, Tokyo Big Sight, Tokyo. Tel.: 39-0444-969111. Fax: 39-0444-969000. 20-21, Mode Fabriek, Europaplaen 22, Amsterdam. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: senken.co.jp/iff. E-mail: info@vicenzafi era.it. Web: vicenzaoro.org. Contact: Stichting Modefabriek. Tel.: 31-20-442-1960. 24-25, Kid’s Fashion Mode Enfantine, Paris, Porte de 14-16, White Homme (men’s collections and accessories Fax: 31-20-442-1961. Web: modefabriek.nl. Versailles, Hall 8. Contact: Belgian Fashion Fairs. Tel.: 32-2- and women’s clothing pre-collections and accessories), 21-24, Paris Haute Couture Collections, Various Locations, 370-6016. Fax: 32-2-332-4951. E-mail: [email protected]. Via Tortona 27, Milan. Contact: M.seventy. Paris. Contact: Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à- Web: kidsfashion.fairs.com. Tel.: 39-02-3459-2785. Fax: 39-02-3459-2809. Porter des Couturiers et des Creáteurs de Mode. Continued on page 20 20 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007

SECTION II

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Calendar Continued from page 19 Fax: 49-89-94-92-07-29. In the U.S., contact: Dieter Trimp, 2-5, The Melbourne Gift Trade Fair, Melbourne Exhibition Ispo USA. Tel.: 415-868-8882. Web: ispo.com. and Convention Centre, Melbourne, Australia. Contact: Reed 24-26, Salon International Interfi liere (fabrics and 27-31, Alta Roma Alta Moda, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Exhibitions. Tel.: 61-2-94222500. Web: reedgiftfairs.com.au. accessories for lingerie and swimwear), Paris Expo, Porte Rome. Contact: Alta Roma. Tel.: 3-06-6781313. Fax: 39-06- 2-5, SHOPEX, Melbourne Exhibition and Convention Centre, de Versailles, Hall 1, Paris. Contact: Salon Interfi liere Paris 69200303. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: altaroma.it. Melbourne, Australia. Contact: Reed Exhibitions. – Eurovet. Tel.: 33-1-47-56-32-32. Fax: 33-1-47-56-32-99. 27-31, IMG Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, Tel.: 61-2-94222442. Web: shopex.com.au. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: interfi liere.com. Postbahnhof, Berlin. Contact: IMG. Tel.: 49-30-889-2289-0. 3-5, FashionNorth (men’s wear and women’s wear), 24-27, Bijorhca Eclat de Mode, Porte de Versailles, Hall 5, Web: mercedes-benzfashionweek.com. International Center, Toronto. Contact: Ralph Weil. Paris. Contact: Reed Expositions. Tel.: 33-1-47-56-52-82. 30-Feb. 1, Pitti Immagine Filati, Fortezza da Basso, Florence. Tel.: 416-229-2060, ext. 224 or 800-896-7469. Fax: 33-1-47-56-24-92. E-mail: [email protected]. Contact: Pitti Immagine. Tel.: 39-02-863462 or 39-055- Fax: 416-223-2826. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: bijorhca.com. 36931. Fax: 39-02-876792 or 39-055-3693200. Web: fnladies.com. 24-27, Prêt à Porter Paris (Atmosphere d’Hiver/Casabo Homme E-mail: fi [email protected]. Web: pittimmagine.com. 3-5, London Edge & London Central, Olympia 2, and Femme/The Box), Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, Hall 7, 30-31, Tissu Premier (textiles) and Tissu Now, Lille Hammersmith Road, London. Contact: Carol Hunter. Paris. Contact: SODES. Tel.: 33-1-44-94-70-35. Fax: 33-1-44- Grand Palais, Lille, France. Contact: Eurovet. Tel.: 44-0-185-846-5874. Web: londonedge.com. 94-70-05. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: pretparis.com. Tel.: 33-1-47-56-32-32. Fax: 33-1-47-56-32-99. 6-8, Munich Fabric Start, MOC Sports and Fashion Center, 24-27, Who’s Next, Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, Halls 3 E-mail: [email protected]. Web: tissu-premier.com. Munich, Germany. Contact: MOC. Tel.: 49-89-452-2470. & 4, Paris. Contact: Johanna Béru. Tel.: 33-1-40-13-74-74. 30-31, Janvier Journees Fournisseurs (textiles for kids’ Fax: 49-89-452 24722. E-mail: [email protected]. Fax: 33-1-40-13-74-84. E-mail: [email protected]. fashion), Lille Grand Palais, Lille, France. Contact: Eurovet Web: munichfabricstart.de. Web: whosnext.com. SAS. Tel.: 33-1-47-56-32-32. Fax: 33-1-47-56-32-99. 7-9, 11th Istanbul Fashion Fair, CNR EKSPO Center, 24-27, Premiere Classe, Paris Expo, Porte de Versailles, Hall 3, E-mail: [email protected]. Istanbul. Contact: Melis Çaliskaner. Tel.: 90-212-465- Paris. Contact: Patricia Larat. Tel.: 33-1-40-13-74-70. Web: journeesfournisseurs.com. 74-74 ext. 2207. Fax: 90-212-465-74-76. Fax: 33-1-40-13-74-80. E-mail: [email protected]. 31-Feb. 2, Projekt Galerie Showrooms, various galleries along E-mail: [email protected]. Web: cnr-if.com. Web: premiere-classe.com. Torstrasse, Berlin. Contact: Sven Krueger, Projekt Galerie. 7-10, CPH Vision, Øksnehallen, Halmetorvet 11, 1700 24-27, Salon International de la Lingerie, Porte de Versailles, Tel.: 49-30-503-69-157. Web: projektgalerie.net. Copenhagen. Contact: Exhibition Professionals. Tel.: 45-39- Hall 1, Paris. Contact: Eurovet. Tel.: 33-1-47-56-32-32. 31-Feb. 2, Ideal Showroom, Café Moskau, Berlin. 64-85-86. Fax: 45-39-64-85-87. Web: cphvison.dk. Fax: 33-1-47-56-32-99. E-mail: [email protected]. Contact: Sumi Ha, Ideal Berlin. Tel.: 49-30-2463-2482. 7-10, Copenhagen International Fashion Fair, Bella Center, Web: lingerie-paris.com. Fax: 49-30-2463-2522. Web: ideal-berlin.com. Copenhagen. Contact: Dansk Textil & Beklaedning. Tel.: 45- 24-28, Maison et Objet: Salon du Meuble, Paris Le Bourget, 97-11-72-00. Fax: 45-97-11-72-15. Web: ciff.dk/english. Paris. Contact: Virginie Belin. Tel.: 33-1-58-07-18-00. FEBRUARY 8-10, WEARe, Hall 8, Düsseldorf Fairgrounds, Düsseldorf, Fax: 33-1-46-73-91-54. E-mail: info@safi salons.fr. 1-3, Stark Women, Kopenhagener Strasse 6, Berlin. Germany. Tel.: 49-30-44-35-21-20. Web: weare-duesseldorf.de. Web: maison-objet.com. Contact: Modeagentur Klauser. Tel.: 49-89-231-199-0. 8-10, NSIA Snow Show, Place Bonaventure, Montreal. 25-27, Salon de la Maroquinerie (leather goods), Paris Expo, Web: modeagentur-klauser.de. Contact: Anna Di Meglio. Tel.: 514-939-7370. Fax: 514- Porte de Versailles, Paris. Contact: Federation Francaise de la 1-3, Premium Exhibitions, The Station, Luckenwalder Strasse 939-7371. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: nsia.ca. Maroquinerie. Tel.: 33-1-42-44-22-44. Fax: 33-1-42-44-22-45. 4-6, Berlin. Contact: Ralf Strotmeier. Tel.: 49-0-30-616-757-66. 10-11, TBC, The Old Truman Brewery, Brick Lane East, E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: premiumexhibitions.com. London. Contact: Buzz Carter. Tel.: 44-0-207-733-5102. Web: ff-maroquinerie.fr. 1-4, Iosposa (bridal and formal wear), Fieramilanocity, Web: 2beconfi rmed.com. 26-28, Le Showroom Maternity Wear, 128 rue de Milan. Contact: Condè Nast SpA. Tel.: 39-02-85612946. 10-12, CPD Women, Men and Kidz, Messeplatz, D-40474 Paris (Montreuil), Paris. Contact: Picafl or e.u.r.l. Fax: 39-02-85612942. E-mail: [email protected]. Düsseldorf, Germany. Contact: Igedo Co. Tel.: 49-211-43-96-01. Tel.: 33-1-43-72-75-37. Fax: 33-1-43-73-28-42. Web: iosposa.it. Fax: 49-211-43-96-345. E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: igedo.com. Web: leshowroom.fr. 10-12, FirstAlternative, Rimini Fairgrounds 27-28, JAM – Jeans Affair Munich, Zenith Rimini, Italy. Contact: Rimini Fiera SpA. Halle, MOC Sports and Fashion Center, Tel.: 39-0541-744111. Fax: 39-0541- Munich. Contact: MOC. Tel.: 49-89-452- 744200. E-mail: riminifi era@riminifi era.it. 2470. Fax: 49-89-452-24722. Web: fi rstalternative.it. Web: jeansaffairmunich.com. 10-12, Bodylook (body, beach and legwear), 27-28, Kid’s Fashion Mode Enfantine, Düsseldorf Fairgrounds, Düsseldorf. Hangar 29 – Waagnatie, Antwerp, Belgium. Contact: Igedo International Modemesse Contact: Belgian Fashion Fairs. Tel.: 32-2- Düsseldorf. Tel.: 49-211-43-96-01. 370-6016. Fax: 32-2-332-4951. Fax: 49-211-43-96-345. Web: igedo.com. E-mail: [email protected]. 10-12, Margin London, The Vinyl Factory Web: kidsfashionfairs.com. Gallery, Soho, London. Contact: Odysseas 27-29, Mode Accessories Show, Double Constantine. Tel.: 44-0-77-1033-0805. Tree International Plaza Hotel, Toronto. Web: margin.tv Contact: Alice Chee. Tel.: 416-510-0114. 10-12, Pure London, Olympia, Hammersmith Fax: 416-510-0165. E-mail: Road, London. Contact: Samantha Bleasby. [email protected]. Tel.: 44-0-207-728-3514. Web: mode-accessories.com. Web: purewomenswear.co.uk. 27-29, Premier Kids, The National 10-16, London Fashion Week, Natural History Exhibition Center, Birmingham, U.K. Museum, London. Contact: Caroline Rush. Contact: Olga Carola-Downing. Tel.: 44-0- Tel.: 44-0-207-851-4655. 207-728-4277. Web: premierkids.co.uk. Web: londonfashionweek.co.uk. 27-30, Ispo International Fair for Sporting 11-15, Pasarela Cibeles, Retiro Park, Goods and Sports Fashion and Ispo Vision, Madrid. Contact: Leonor Pérez Pita, New Munich fairgrounds, Munich. Contact: NAFFEM will run April 30 to May 3 in Montreal. IFEMA. Tel.: 34-91-7225083. Messe München. Tel.: 49-89-94-90-1. Fax: 34-91-7225164. WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 21

WWD.COM

E-mail: [email protected]. Web: cibeles.ifema.es. 21-24, Milanovendemoda (including PluSize 46…52 large Tel.: 39-02-34592785. Fax: 39-02-34592809. 12-14, Rooms, Yoyogi National Stadium, Tokyo. size clothing sector), Fieramilanocity, Milan. Contact: Expocts. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: whiteshow.it. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: roomsroom.com. Tel.: 39-02-349841. Fax: 39-02-34984439. 22-25, W Lo Spazio, La Posteria – Via G., Sacchi 5/7, Milan. 12-14, Livingroom Tokyo, Yoyogi National Stadium, Tokyo. E-mail: [email protected]. Contact: W Lo Spazio. Tel.: 39-02-58328595. Fax: 39-02- E-mail: [email protected]. Web: milanovendemoda.expocts.it. 58324178. E-mail: [email protected] or Web: livingroomtokyo.com. 21-24, Touch!, Via Tortona 54, Milan. Contact: Pitti [email protected]. Web: workshopsalons.com. 12-15, Milano Unica (Ideabiella, Ideacomo, Moda In, Prato Immagine. Tel.: 39-02-863462 or 39-055-36931. 23-26, Munichfashion.women, MOC Sports and Fashion Expo, Shirt venue — Textile shows), Fieramilanocity, Milan. Fax: 39-02-876792 or 39-055-3693200. Center, Munich. Contact: Munichfashion.company. Contact: MilanoUnica. Tel.: 39-02-66101105. Fax: 39-02- E-mail: [email protected]. Web: pittimmagine.com. Tel.: 49-8106-9940-330 Fax: 49-8106-9940-337. 66111335. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: milanounica.it. 21-24, Neozone, Via Tortona 54, Milan. Contact: Pitti Web: munichfashioncompany.com. 13-15, Intertex, Palazzo delle Stelline, Milan. Contact: T.D.F. Immagine. Tel.: 39-02-863462 or 39-055-36931. 23-26, Gift & Homewares Australia (GHA) Trade Fair, Srl. Tel.: 39-02-480128876. Fax: 39-02-4815339. Fax: 39-02-876792 or 39-055-3693200. E-mail: neozone@ Sydney Showground & Exhibition Complex, Sydney Olympic E-mail: [email protected]. Web: intertexmilano.it. pittimmagine.com. Web: pittimmagine.com. Park, Sydney. Contact: The Australian Gift & Homewares 13-15, Ready to Show, Palazzo delle Stelline, Milan. 21-24, Cloudnine, Via Tortona 54, Milan. Contact: Pitti Association. Tel.: 61-2-97633222. Web: agha.com.au. Contact: T.D.F. Srl. Tel.: 39-02-48015026. Fax: 39-02- Immagine. Tel.: 39-02-863462 or 39-055-36931. 23-27, The Sydney Gift Trade Fair, Sydney Convention and 4815339. E-mail: [email protected]. Fax: 39-02-876792 or 39-055-3693200. Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour, Sydney. Contact: Reed Web: readytoshow.it. E-mail: [email protected]. Exhibitions. Tel.: 61-2-94222500. Web: reedgiftfairs.com.au. 15-17, SIMM (Salón Internacional de Moda de Madrid), Web: pittimmagine.com. 24-25, ABC Salon, MOC Sports and Fashion Center, Munich. Juan Carlos I fairgrounds, Madrid. 21-24, White, Via Tortona 27, Milan. Contact: M.seventy. Continued on page 22 Contact: Pola Iglesias, IFEMA. Tel: 34-91-7223000. Fax: 34-91-7225787. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: semanamoda.ifema.es. e z

15-17, The Australian Shoe Fair, i a h

Sydney Convention C n a i and Exhibition Centre, Sydney. t s i r Contact: Australian h C

Exhibitions & Conferences. © Tel.: 61-3-96547773. Web: australianshoefair.com. 17-19, Moda UK, National Exhibition Center, Birmingham, U.K. Contact: Sarah Moody. Tel.: 44-0- 148-484-6069. Web: moda-uk.co.uk. 18-21, Texworld, Paris Le Bourget, Paris. Contact: Messe Frankfurt. Tel.: 33-1-55-26-89-89. Fax: 33-1-40-35-09-00. E-mail: Texworld@France. MesseFrankfurt.com. Web: interstoff.messefrankfurt.com/ texworld. 18-25, Milano Moda Donna, Various locations, Milan. Contact: Camera Nazionale della Moda. Tel.: 39-02-7771081. Fax: 39-02-77710850. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: cameramoda.it. 19-22, Mod’Amont (trimmings), Parc d’Expositions de Paris-Nord Villepinte, Hall 3, Paris. Contact: Aimeline Marsura. Tel.: 33-1-44-71-71-71. Fax: 33-1-44-71-71-84. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: modamont.com. 19-22, Première Vision, Parc d’Expositions de Paris-Nord Villepinte, Paris. Contact: Christiane de Claviere. Tel.: 33-4-72-60-65- 35. Fax: 33-4-72-60-65-39. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: premierevision.fr. 19-22, Expofi l, Parc d’Expositions de Paris-Nord Villepinte, Hall 5A, Paris. Contact: Expofi l. Tel.: 33-1-70-38- 70-00. Fax: 33-1-70-38-70-01. E-mail: expofi l@expofi l.com. Web: expofi l.com. 19-22, Indigo Mode, Parc d’Expositions de Paris-Nord Villepinte, Paris. Contact: Marie Odile Verrier. Tel.: 33-1-70- 38-70-08. Fax: 33-1-70-38-70-11. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: indigo-salon.com. 19-22, Le Cuir à Paris, Parc d’Expositions de Paris- Nord Villepinte, Paris. Contact: Beatrice Rousseau. Tel.: 33-1-43-59-05-69. Fax: 33-1-43-59-30-02. The World’s Premier Fabric Show™/ Parc d’Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte - France / from Tuesday 19 to Friday 22 February 2008 E-mail: [email protected]. PREMIERE VISION C/o France Ligne Inc. - Tel.: [1] 203 698 7460 / [email protected] / www.premierevision.fr Web: lecuiraparis.com. 20-23, Ispo China, CIEC China International Exhibition Center, A radical and devil-may-care season, ultra colourful and fresh, Beijing. Contact: Messe München. to dare to join in the heart of the life of tomorrow. Tel.: 49-89-94-90-1. Fax: 49-89- 94-92-07-29. Web: ispo.com. In the U.S., contact Dieter Trimp, ISPO USA. Tel.: 415-868-8882. 22 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007

SECTION II 01/ INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Calendar

Continued from page 21 24-27/ Fax: 33-1-42-86-98-27. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: vendomeluxurytradeshow.com. Contact: MOC. Tel.: 49-89-323-53-185. Fax: 49- 28-March 2, Tranoi Femme, Palais de la Bourse, 89-323-53-197. Web: abc-salon.de. Montaigne, & Bourse de Commerce, Paris. 24-26, Midec International Shoe Fair, Paris Contact: Tranoi. Tel.: 33-1-53-01-84-96. Expo, Porte de Versailles, Hall 4, Paris. Fax: 33-1-42-71-07-03. E-mail: [email protected]. Contact: Valerie Stoppa. Tel.: 33-1-44-71- Web: tranoi.com. 71-71. Fax: 33-1-44-71-71-84. 28-March 2, China International Gold, Jewellery, 2008 E-mail: [email protected]. Web: midec.com. & Gem Fair — Shenzhen, Shenzhen Convention 24-26, Harrogate Lingerie & Swimwear, Harrogate & Exhibition Center, Shenzhen, China. International Center, Harrogate, U.K. Contact: Contact: Sunny Chan. Tel.: 852-2516-1657. Janie Fox. Tel.: 44-0-020-7973-4691 or 44-0- E-mail: [email protected]. 207-436-6676. Web: lingerie-show.com. Web: jewellerynetasia.com. 25-28, Hong Kong International Fur & Fashion Fair, 28-March 3, Hong Kong Airport International Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, Hong Jewelry Show, Asia World Expo, Hong Kong. Kong. Contact: Hong Kong Fur Federation. Contact: Neway Fairs. Tel.: 852-2561-5566. Tel.: 852-2367-4646. E-mail: [email protected]. Fax: 852-2811-9156. Web: newayfairs.com. Web: hkfurfed.com.hk. 29-March 3, Premiere Classe, Paris Expo, Porte de 26-28, Textilmoda, Juan Carlos I fairgrounds, Versailles, Hall 3, Paris. Contact: Patricia Larat. Madrid. Contact: Felix Pérez-Fajardo, IFEMA. Tel.: 33-1-40-13-74-70. Fax: 33-1-40-13-74-80. Tel.: 34-91-7225180. Fax: 34-91-7225789. E-mail: [email protected].

The show fl oor at the September SIMM. PHOTO BY CARLOS DE ANDRES CARLOS PHOTO BY

E-mail: [email protected]. Web: textilmoda.ifema.es. Web: premiere-classe.com. 26-29, Micam (footwear), Fieramilano, Milan. 29-March 3, Rendez-Vous Femme Collections, Contact: Micam. Tel.: 39-02-438291. Fax: 39-02- Location TBD, Paris. Contact: Rendez-Vous. 43829233. E-mail: [email protected]. Tel.: 33-1-47-03-45-06. Fax: 33-1-44-61-70-27. Web: micamonline.com. E-mail: [email protected]. 26-29, cpm Collections Première Moscow Web: rendez-vous-paris.com. International Fashion Fair, Expocentr, Moscow. 29-March 3, Atmosphère d’Hiver, Jardin des Contact: Igedo International Modemesse Düsseldorf. Tuileries (Terrasse des Feuillants) and Hôtel Tel.: 49-211-43-96-01. Fax: 49-211-43-96-345. Saint James & Albany, Paris. Contact: SODES. Web: igedo.com. Tel.: 33-1-44-94-70-35. Fax: 33-1-44-94-70-05. 26-March 4, Paris Ready-to-Wear Collections, various E-mail: [email protected]. Web: pretparis.com. locations, Paris. Contact: Fédération Française de 29-March 3, Paris Sur Mode, Jardin des Tuileries, la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Paris. Contact: Jeannine Martinez-Ethvignot, Creáteurs de Mode. Tel.: 33-1-42-66-64-44. ComExpo. Tel.: 33-1-49-09-61-96. Fax: 33-1-49- Fax: 33-1-42-66-94-63. E-mail: [email protected]. 09-61-07. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: modeaparis.com. Web: parissurmode.com. 27-29, Spinexpo, Shanghai Pudong Expo. 29-March 4, The Box, Grand Hotel — Hotel Contact: Well Link Consultants. Tel.: 852-2824- Intecontinental Opera, Paris. Contact: Muriel Piaser. 8581. Fax: 852-2824-8268. Tel.: 33-1-44-94-70-35. Fax: 33-1-44-94-70-05. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: spinexpo.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: pretparis.com. 27-March 2, Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair, Impact Exhibition and Convention Center, Bangkok. MARCH Contact: Thai Gem & Jewelry Traders Association. 1-3, Can-Am Western Apparel Trade Show, Tel.: 662-630-1390. Fax: 662-630-1398. Spruce Meadows Equiplex, Calgary, Canada. E-mail: [email protected]. Tel.: 403-995-1003. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: bangkokgemsfair.com. Web: canammarket.ca. 27-March 2, Workshop Paris, Cercle Républicain 2-3, Moda-Tex Budapest, Industrial Garment Art Director : Benjamin Poulanges - graphism : Kamel Yahimi Kamel - graphism : Benjamin Poulanges Art Director : and Hôtel Régina, Paris. Contact: Workshop Salons. Trade Fair, SYMA Hall, Budapest XIV. Tel.: 33-1-44-54-10-90. Fax: 33-1-44-54-09-48. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: bcefair.hu. E-mail: [email protected]. 2-4, About J, Superstudio Più, Via Tortona 27, Web: workshopsalons.com. Milan. Contact: Fiera di Vicenza. Tel.: 39-0444- PREMIERE CLASSE 27-March 2, Le Showroom, Espace Richelieu, 969111. Fax: 39-0444-969000. ACCESSORY DESIGNERS TRADE SHOW Paris. Contact: Picafl or Eurl. Tel: 33-1-43- E-mail: [email protected]. Web: aboutjevent.com. PARIS EXPO HALL 3 72-75-37. Fax: 33-1-43-73-28-42. 2-4, Autumn Gift Fair, ASB Showgrounds, WWW.PREMIERE-CLASSE.COM E-mail: [email protected]. Web: leshowroom.fr. Greenlane, Auckland, New Zealand. 28-March 2, 19 Vendôme, Place Vendôme, Paris. Contact: DMG World Media. Tel.: 64-9-9768300. Contact: Studio XXb. Tel.: 33-1-42-86-98-28. Web: giftfairs.co.nz. WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007 23

WWD.COM

2-5, Tex-Styles India, Pragati Maidan, New Delhi, Convention Center (EXCO), Daegu, South Korea. India. E-mail: [email protected]. Contact: Preview in Daegu. Tel.: 82-53-560-6520. Web: texstylesindia.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: previewin.com. 2-9, L’Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival, multiple 12-16, Mifur (fur and leather), Fieramilanocity, venues, Melbourne, Australia. Contact: L’Oréal Milan. Contact: Mifur. Tel.: 39-02-76003315. Melbourne Fashion Festival. Tel.: 61-3-96545599. Fax: 39-02-76022024. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: lmff.com.au. Web: mifur.com. 4-6, Poznan Fashion Days, Poznan fairgrounds, 13-20, Western Apparel Markets (B.C.), various Poznan, Poland. Tel.: 48-61-869-2340. locations, Vancouver. Tel.: 604-682-5719. Fax: 48-61-866-5827. Web: mtp.pl. Web: passporttofashion.com. 5-6, Anteprima, Fieramilanocity, Milan. 14-16, GDS International Shoe Fair, Düsseldorf Contact: Anteprima. Tel.: 39-02-8807711. fairgrounds, Düsseldorf. Contact: Messe Düsseldorf. Fax: 39-02-860032. E-mail: [email protected]. Tel.: 49-211-45-60-01. Fax: 49-211-45-60-668. Web: trendselection.com. Web: gds-online.de. 5-8, Asia’s Fashion Jewelry and Accessories Fair, 15-17, Fashion Shanghai, Shanghai New International Asia World Expo, Hong Kong. Contact: Cora Chan, Expo Center, Shanghai. Contact: Miss Ge Jin. CMP Asia Ltd. Tel.: 852-2516 2158. Fax: 852- Tel.: 86-21-62775353 ext. 609 or 627. Fax: 86-21- 2511-6113. E-mail: [email protected]. 62270002. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: asiaFJA.com. Web: fashionshanghai.com. 5-8, 9th Hong Kong International Jewellery 15-18, Ontario Fashion Exhibitors Market and Show, Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition 100% Fresh, Toronto Congress Center, Toronto. Centre, Hong Kong. Contact: Hong Kong Trade Contact: Serge Micheli. Tel.: 416-596-2401. Development Council. Tel.: 852-1830-668. Fax: 416-596-1808. E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: ontariofashionexhibitors.ca. Web: hkjewellery.com. 16-17, JAA Australian Jewellery Fair & 6-8, Fur & Fashion, Frankfurt Fairgrounds, Frankfurt. Brisbane Jewellery Fair, Brisbane Convention Contact: Messe Frankfurt. Tel.: 49-69-75-75-0. and Exhibition Centre, Brisbane, Australia. Fax: 49-69-75-75-64-33. E-mail: info@fur-fashion- Contact: Expertise Events. Tel.: 61-2-94527575. frankfurt.de. Web: fur-fashion-frankfurt.de. Web: jewelleryfair.com.au. 6-9, Portugal Fashion Week, Praça Luis de Camões, 19-20, Filo, Centro Congressi Stelline, Milan. Lisbon. Contact: Rita Costa Gomes. Tel.: 351-21- Contact: Asso Servizi Biella. Tel.: 39-015-8483271. 321-30-00. E-mail: [email protected]. Fax: 39-015-403978. E-mail: info@fi lofair.com. Web: modalisboa.pt. Web: ui.biella.it/fi lo or fi lo.it. 6-10, Trends the Apparel Show, Northlands Agricom, 27-29, Intertextile Beijing, China International Edmonton. Tel.: 780-455-1881. Fax: 780-455- Exhibition Center, Beijing, China. Contact: Wilmet 3969. E-mail: [email protected]. Shea. Tel.: 852-2238-9967. Fax: 852-2598-8771. Web: trendsapparel.com. E-mail: [email protected]. 7-9, Modacalzado (footwear) and Iberpiel (small Web: messefrankfurt.com.hk. leather goods), Juan Carlos I fairgrounds, 27-29, Yarn Expo, China World Trade Centre, Madrid. Contact: Pola Iglesias, IFEMA. Beijing, China. Contact: Arosia Tong. Tel.: 34-91-7223000. Fax: 34-91-7225787. Tel.: 852-2238-9982. Fax: 852-2598-8771. E-mail: [email protected] or [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: semanapiel.ifema.es. Web: messefrankfurt.com.hk. 7-9, I.L.M., International Leather Goods Fair, 27-29, Interstoff Rossija, IEC Crocus Exhibition Kaiserstrasse 108-112, Offenbach, Germany. Center, Moscow. Contact: Messe Frankfurt. Contact: Offenbacher Messe Gesellschaft. Tel.: 49-69-75-75-0. Fax: 49-69-75-75-64-33. Tel.: 49-69-829-75-50. Fax: 49-69-829-75-560. Web: messefrankfurt.com. Web: messe-offenbach.de. 28-31, CHIC, China International Clothing & 8-10, Texgate CNR Expo Istanbul, International Accessories Fair, New China International Exhibition Textile and Accessories Fair, CNR EKSPO Center. Centre, Beijing, China. Contact: Jennifer Zhang. Istanbul. Contact: Nurten Korkut. Tel.: 90-212-465- Tel.: 86-10-6505-1041. Fax: 86-10-6505-3260. 7475. E-mail: [email protected] or E-mail: [email protected]. Web: chiconline.com.cn. [email protected]. Web: itf-texgate.com. 29-April 1, Oroarezzo (gold, silver and fi ne jewelry), 9-11, Fashion Exposed, Sydney Convention and Arezzo, Italy. Contact: Centro Promozioni e Servizi. Exhibition Centre, Sydney. Contact: Australian Tel.: 39-0575-9361. Fax: 39-0575-383028. Exhibitions & Conferences. Tel.: 61-3-96547773. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: oroarezzo.it. Web: aec.net.au. 31-April 2, Asia Pacifi c Leather Fair, Hong Kong 9-11, Preview, Sydney Convention and Exhibition Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong. Centre, Sydney. Contact: Australian Exhibitions & Contact: APLF. Tel.: 852-2827-6211. Conferences. Tel.: 61-3-96547773. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: aplf.com. Web: preview.net.au. 31-April 2, Fashion Access, Hong Kong Convention 9-11, The Leather Bags & Accessories Fair, Sydney and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong. Contact: APLF. Convention and Exhibition Centre, Sydney. Tel.: 852-2827-6211. E-mail: [email protected]. Contact: Australian Exhibitions & Conferences. Web: aplf.com. Tel.: 61-3-96547773. Web: lbafair.com. 31-April 2, Prime Source Forum, Hong Kong 10-14, Montreal Fashion Week, Marché Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong. Bonsecours, Montreal. Contact: Sophie Des Marais. Contact: Josephine Ching. Tel.: 852-2827-6211. Tel.: 514-234-4736. E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: aplf.com. Web: sensationmode.com. TBD, Centre International de Mode de Montréal 10-15, L’Oréal Fashion Week, various locations, (CIMM), Fashion Mart, Place Bonaventure, Montreal. Toronto. Contact: Robin Kay. Tel.: 416-922-3322. Contact: Eyal Cohen. Tel.: 514-381-5921. Fax: 416-922-4292. E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: lorealfashionweek.ca. Web: montrealfashionmart.com. 11-14, Fenatec, Parque Anhembi, Pavilião de Exposições do Anhembi, São Paulo, Brazil. APRIL Tel.: 55-11-3291-9111. Web: fenatec.com.br. 4-6, Moda Made in Italy, MOC Sports and Fashion 11-15, 6th Japan Fashion Week, Tokyo Midtown, Center, Munich. Contact: MOC. Tel.: 49-89-32-35-30. Tokyo. Tel.: 212-819-7746. E-mail: [email protected]. Fax: 49-89-94-92-07-29. Web: moc-muenchen.de. 12-13, Textile Forum, The Vinyl Factory, London. 6-7, Off-Price, Olympia, Hammersmith Road, Contact: Linda Laderman. Tel.: 44-020-7436-6676. London. Contact: Buzz Carter, 44-0-207-733-5102. Web: textileforum.co.uk. Web: offpriceshow.co.uk. 12-14, Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics 8-9, Pirmasenser International Leather Week/ (China International Trade Fair for Apparels and Salon Euro-shoe Design, Pirmasens fairgrounds, Accessories), Shanghai New International Expo Pirmasens, Germany. Contact: Pirmarsenser Centre, Shanghai. Contact: Messe Frankfurt Messe GmbH. Tel.: 49-6331-55-33-00. (Shanghai) Co. Ltd. Tel.: 86-21-6160-8555. Fax: 49-6331-65758. Fax: 86-21-5876-9332. 8-9, Hong Kong Mode Lingerie 2008, Hong Kong E-mail: [email protected]. Convention & Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong. WHO’S NEXT Web: messefrankfurt.com. Contact: Marie-Dominique de Fondaumiere. 12-14, Interstoff Asia, Hong Kong Convention and Tel.: 33-1-47-56-32-32. Fax: 33-1-47-56-22-99. INTERNATIONAL FASHION SHOW Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong. Contact: Cindy Chee. E-mail: [email protected]. January 24th - 27th 2008 / Paris Expo - halls 3&4 Tel.: 852-2238-9917. Fax: 852-2598-8771. 10-14, Cosmoprof, Bologna Fairgrounds, Bologna, E-mail: [email protected]. Italy. Contact: SoGeCos. Tel.: 39-02-796420. www.whosnext.com Web: messefrankfurt.com.hk. 12-14, Preview in Daegu, Daegu Exhibition & Continued on page 24 Design : Kamel Yahimi 24 WWD, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21, 2007

SECTION II WWD.COM

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOWS Calendar Continued from page 23 9-12, Mido, Fieramilano, Milan. Contact: Mido. Tel.: 39-02- 27-June 1, BCN Bridal Week, including Pasarela Gaudi 32673673. Fax: 39-02-324233. E-mail: [email protected]. Novias runway shows and Noviaespana trade event. Montjuïc Fax: 39-02-795036. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: mido.it. 2 fairgrounds, Barcelona. Contact: Paco Flaqué, FFF Flaqué Web: cosmoprof.it. 14-18, 25th International Knitting, Embroidery Hosiery Internacional. Tel.: 34-93-2093639 or 93-2011230. 12-13, Melbourne International Beauty Expo & Machines, Side Industries and Accessories Fair, Tuyap Fax: 34-93-2021378. E-mail: [email protected]. Conference, Melbourne Exhibition and Fair, Convention and Congress Center, Istanbul. Web: moda-barcelona.com. Convention Centre, Melbourne, Australia. Contact: Arzu Tursun. Tel.: 90-212-8866018. 28-31, Shoes & Leather, Guangzhou, Chinese Export Contact: Reed Exhibitions. Tel.: 61-2-94222917. Fax: 90-212-8866715. E-mail: [email protected]. Commodities Fair Pazhou Complex, Guangzhou, China. Web: internationalbeautyexpo.com.au/melbourne-2008. Web: tuyap.com.tr. Contact: Erika Ho. Tel.: 852-2851-8603. Fax: 852-2851- 12-15, China Sourcing Fair, Asia World Expo, Hong Kong. 14-18, 6th International Istanbul Yarn Fair, Tuyap Fair, 8637. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: toprepute.com.hk. Contact: Emily Fu. Tel.: 852-2555-5042. Convention and Congress Center, Istanbul. Contact: Arzu E-mail: [email protected]. Tursun. Tel.: 90-212-8866018. Fax: 90-212-8866715. JUNE Web: tradeshow.globalsources.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: tuyap.com.tr. 2-4, China (Shanghai) International Fashion Production (OEM) 13-15, Luggage, Leathergoods, Handbags & Accessories 14-18, Textile Machinery 2008 25th International Textile Exhibition, Shanghai New International Exhibition Center, Show, Toronto Congress Center, Toronto. Tel.: 416-229- Machinery, Side Industries and Textile Chemicals Fair, Tuyap Shanghai, China. Contact: Tel.: 86-21-5445-1166. Fax: 86-21- 9919. E-mail: [email protected]. Fair, Convention and Congress Center, Istanbul. Contact: Arzu 5445-1968. Web: ctfe.com.cn/eng. Web: llhashows.com. Tursun. Tel.: 90-212-8866018. Fax: 90-212-8866715. 7-9, Hair Expo Australia, Sydney Convention & Exhibition 14-15, Sydney Bridal Expo, Sydney Convention and E-mail: [email protected]. Web: tuyap.com.tr. Centre, Sydney. Contact: Hair Expo Australia. Exhibition Centre, Sydney. Contact: Graham Tel.: 61-2-94222859 or 61-2-9938356. Stroud Events & Marketing. Tel.: 61-2- Web: hairexpoaustralia.com. 93620278. Web: sydneybridalexpo.com.au. 13-16, China International Gold, Jewellery, 15-20, Canton Fair, Chinese Export & Gem Fair – Guangzhou, Guangzhou Jinhan Commodities Fair Pazhou and Liuhua Exhibition Centre, Guangzhou, China. Complexes, Guangzhou, China. Contact: Contact: Sunny Chan. Tel.: 852-2516-1657. Canton Fair. Tel.: 86-020-2608-8888. E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: jewellerynetasia.com. Web: cantonfair.org.cn. 14-17, JMA Macau, The Cotai Strip Exhibition 16-18, Dongguan China Shoes & China Centre, The Venetian Hotel, Macau. Contact: Shoetec, Dongguan International Conference Neway Fairs. Tel.: 852-2561-5566. Fax: 852- & Exhibition Center, Guangdong, China. 2811-9156. Web: newayfairs.com Contact: Yen Chan. Tel.: 852-2516-3367. 14-17, ExpoRivaSchuh (footwear), Riva del Fax: 852-2516-5024. Garda, Italy. Contact: ExpoRivaSchuh. Tel.: 39- E-mail: [email protected]. 0464-570153. Fax: 39-0464-570130. E-mail: Web: chinashoesexpo.com. [email protected]. Web: exporivashoe.it. 17-19, Istanbul 2nd Leather Fashion Fair, 18-21, Pitti Uomo (men’s wear), Fortezza da Tuyap Fair, Convention and Congress Center, Basso, Florence. Contact: Pitti Immagine. Istanbul. Contact: Arzu Tursun. Tel.: 90-212- Tel.: 39-02-863462 or 39-055-36931. 8866018. Fax: 90-212-8866715. Fax: 39-02-876792 or 39-055-3693200. E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected] or Web: istanbulleather.com. [email protected]. Web: pittimmagine.com. 22-24, Lineapelle (leather and accessories), 18-24, São Paulo Fashion Week, Fundação Bologna Fairgrounds, Bologna, Italy. Bienal São Paulo, Parque Ibirapuera, São Paulo, Contact: Lineapelle. Tel.: 39-02-8807711. The Moda show will run Feb. 17 to 19 at the NEC in Birmingham, U.K. Brazil. Tel.: 55-11-3094-2882. Fax: 39-02-860032. Web: saopaulofashionweek.com.br. E-mail: [email protected]. 19-22, Hong Kong Jewellery & Watch Fair, Web: lineapelle-fair.it. 17-21, Vicenzaoro Spring (jewelry), Vicenza Fairgrounds, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong. 23-25, JFW Japan Creation, Tokyo Big Sight, Tokyo. Vicenza, Italy. Contact: Fiera di Vicenza. Tel.: 39-0444- Contact: Stephanie Lau. Tel.: 852-2516-2110. E-mail: Web: japancreation.com. 969111. Fax: 39-0444-969000. E-mail: info@vicenzafi era.it. [email protected]. Web: jewellerynetasia.com. 28-May 2, Rosemount Australian Fashion Week, Overseas Web: vicenzaoro.org. 19-22, Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair, AsiaWorld Passenger Terminal, Sydney. Contact: IMG Fashion Asia 22-24, Plural Fashion, Juan Carlos I fairgrounds, Madrid. Expo, Hong Kong. Contact: Cora Chan. Tel.: 852-2516-2158. Pacifi c. Tel.: 61-2-92858000. Web: rafw.com.au. Contact: Pola Iglesias, IFEMA. Tel.: 34-91-7223000. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: jewellerynetasia.com. 30-May 3, NAFFEM – North American Fur & Fashion Fax: 34-91-7225787. E-mail: [email protected]. 20-23, Si Sposaitalia Collezioni (bridal and formal wear), Exhibition, Place Bonaventure, Montreal. Contact: Teresa Web: pluralfashion.ifema.es. Fieramilanocity, Milan. Contact: Expocts. Tel.: 39-02-349841. Eloy. Tel.: 514-844-1945. Fax: 514-844-8593. 23-26, Chibidue (costume jewelry and accessories), Fax: 39-02-34984439. E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: naffem.com. Fieramilanocity, Milan. Contact: Fiera Milano International. Web: sposaitaliacollezioni.expocts.it. Tel.: 39-02-48550301. Fax: 39-02-48550367. 21-25, Milano Moda Uomo (men’s rtw), various locations, Milan. MAY E-mail: [email protected]. Web: chibidue.fmi.it. Contact: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Tel.: 39-02- 4-6, Le Salon Intersélection (children’s wear), Parc 23-26, Chibimart (costume jewelry, gifts, beauty), 7771081. Fax: 39-02-77710850. E-mail: [email protected]. d’Expositions de Paris-Nord Villepinte, Paris. Fieramilanocity, Milan. Contact: Fiera Milano International. Web: cameramoda.it. Contact: Eurovet. Tel.: 33-1-47-56-3232. Fax: 33-1-47- Tel.: 39-02-48550301. Fax: 39-02-48550367. 26-28, Western Apparel Markets (B.C.), various locations, 56-3299. E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: chibimart.it. Vancouver. Tel.: 604-682-5719. Web: passporttofashion.com. Web: interselection.net. 24-26, Modaprima, Fieramilanocity, Milan. Contact: 27-29, Pitti Immagine Bimbo (children’s wear), Fortezza da 8-11, Jewellery Shanghai, Shanghai New International Pitti Immagine. Tel.: 39-02-863462 or 39-055-36931. Basso, Florence. Contact: Pitti Immagine. Tel.: 39-02-863462 Expo Centre, Shanghai, China. Contact: Neway Trade Fairs. Fax: 39-02-876792 or 39-055-3693200. or 39-055-36931. Fax: 39-02-876792 or 39-055-3693200. Tel.: 852-2561-5566. Fax: 852-2811-9156. E-mail: [email protected]. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: pittimmagine.com. E-mail: [email protected]. Web: newayfairs.com. Web: pittimmagine.com. — Compiled by William Cotto