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STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY

REBECCA REYNOLDS, ’71, FIVE STANS, 2015

WHERE OLD TRADITIONS ABOUND

August 30 to September 18, 2018 Think you’ve been everywhere? Only the most intrepid travelers have visited the legendary “Stans” of . While traveling to this region is a daunting proposition for most, those with a sense of adventure will fnd these lands visited by Alexander the Great, Tamerlane and well worth the effort. Today, the ancient cities of these emerging countries—, , and —retain vestiges of their legendary past when they were important stops along the fabled . Along the way beneft from the expertise of local guides and Stanford faculty leader, Professor Abbas Milani, and in each country learn from local experts about the state of politics, economy and culture of each “Stan” since independence. Join us on a journey you’ll never forget!

BRETT S. THOMPSON, ’83, DIRECTOR, STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY Highlights EXPLORE , VIEW part of a fortification ADMIRE the monumen- a strategically important remaining from Tajikistan’s tal and dazzling Persian corner of Central Asia, Hisor Fortress—some architecture of the ancient where Silk Road caravans archaeological finds here Silk Road oasis towns of resupplied long ago. go back to the Stone Age. Samarkand and Bukhara in .

COVER: BUKHARA, UZBEKISTAN

MINARET AND MADRASAH OF ­—, OLD KHIVA, UZBEKISTAN Faculty Leader Born in to a Muslim family, ABBAS MILANI was trained by French nuns and Jesuit priests before leaving Iran as a teen for the U.S. After earning his PhD in political science at the University of Hawaii, he returned to Iran to teach first at the National University and then at Tehran University. Since 1986 he has lived in the Bay Area. At Stanford, Dr. Milani is a research fellow and co-director of the Iran Democracy Project at the Hoover Institution, the Hamid and Christina Moghadam Director of Iranian Studies, and a professor (by courtesy) in the division of global studies. Throughout his adult life, his focus of study has been the cultures, “Abbas was forth- politics and societies of Central Asia and the Middle East through the prism of scholarship. He is the author of numerous articles and coming, informative, books, including The Shah (Palgrave Macmillan, 2012). This will be the 14th Travel/Study program led by the popular faculty leader. passionate and — Richard W. Lyman Award, Stanford University, 2017 — Adjunct professor, Center on Democracy, Development, and Rule of Law always willing to — Research Fellow and Co-Director of Iran Democracy Project, Hoover Institution engage in conversation — Hamid and Christina Moghadam Director of Iranian Studies, Stanford University even outside of the — Chair and professor, department of history and political science, Notre Dame de Namur University — Research fellow, Institute of International Studies, lecture environment.” UC-Berkeley — Assistant professor, law and political science KIM NORRIS, ANCIENT CITIES OF THE EAST- faculty, Tehran University ERN MEDITERRANEAN, — PhD, political science, University of Hawaii 2015 — BA, UC-Berkeley

STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY

SIGN UP ONLINE: alumni.stanford.edu/trip?centralasia2018 OR BY PHONE: (650) 725-1093

TAJIK CAPITAL, , TAJIKISTAN Aral Sea KAZAKHSTAN Almaty Bishkek Lake Dasoguz UZBEKISTAN Issyk-Kul Khiva Tashkent KYRGYZSTAN Bukhara Samarkand CHINA Hisor TAJIKISTAN Dushanbe

IRAN

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 2 Horse” monument and the ALMATY / BISHKEK, exterior of the neoclassical Itinerary KYRGYZSTAN Parliament Building. At the State This morning, observe the sport Museum of Fine Arts, marvel at THURSDAY & FRIDAY, of falconry at a falcon farm near its more than 15,000 paint- AUGUST 30 & 31 Almaty. After lunch, drive to ings, sculptures and decorative DEPART U.S. / ALMA- Bishkek, capital of Kyrgyzstan, pieces from the Soviet period. TY, KAZAKHSTAN which finally gained indepen- After a stop at the , Depart the U.S. on overnight dence after the dissolution of meet with students and staff flights to Kazakhstan. Upon the . This city of at the American University of arrival in Almaty late on Friday trees and broad boulevards Central Asia. This evening, enjoy night or early on Saturday was originally a rest stop on the dinner and a performance of morning, transfer to our hotel, Silk Road. Check in to our hotel classical Kyrgyz music. HYATT located in the city center. HOTEL where we dine tonight. HYATT REGENCY BISHKEK (B,L,D) INTERCONTINENTAL REGENCY BISHKEK (B,L,D) WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 5 SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 1 MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 3 BISHKEK / DUSHAN- ALMATY BISHKEK BE, TAJIKISTAN Set on the edge of the Tian Today visit the Ata-Beiit Me- Fly to Dushanbe, Tajikistan’s Shan Mountains, Almaty, Ka- morial just outside Bishkek, capital, a pleasant city of tree- zakhstan’s largest city, began which honors fallen Kyrgyz lined streets that started as as an important Silk Road town. war heroes. After lunch at one a small market village where Begin our exploration at the of several local homes in the traders would gather each pastel-colored Zenkov Ortho- village of Tokmok, observe the Friday to sell their goods. Today dox cathedral in Panfilov Park. traditional art of felt-making and it is home to many national At the Green Bazaar, marvel help set up a yurt, then watch museums and landmarks. Upon at the fresh, locally grown Kyrgyz national horse games at arrival, enjoy a free afternoon produce, nuts and dried fruits. a nearby stadium before return- before we dine together at a lo- Then tour the Kazakh Museum ing to Bishkek for dinner and a cal restaurant. SERENA HOTEL (B,L,D) of Musical Instruments. At folk performance. HYATT REGENCY the Central State Museum of BISHKEK (B,L,D) THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 6 Kazakhstan, view part of its vast DUSHANBE / HISOR collection of more than 200,000 TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 4 Venture 18 miles outside the artifacts. Tonight enjoy a wel- BISHKEK capital to the town of Hisor, come reception and dinner at a Explore Bishkek today, visiting set in a valley surrounded by Victory and Oak Parks and local restaurant. HOTEL INTERCONTI- snow-capped mountains. NENTAL (B,L,D) the Ala Too Square and Inhabited since the Stone Age, viewing the “Manas on the the area features an 8th-century Aral Sea Optional Post-trip Extension KAZAKHSTAN Almaty SEPTEMBER 17 TO 20 (2 ADDITIONAL DAYS) Bishkek Lake TURKMENISTAN UZBEKISTAN Drive to Da¸soguz, entering Turkmeni- Dasoguz Issyk-Kul stan, for a short tour of the city and lunch. Then fly over the dramatic Tashkent KYRGYZSTAN Karakum (“Black Sand”) Desert to Khiva Ashgabat. Visit Ashgabat’s mag- nificent President Palace Square and the National Museum of History and Khujand Ethnography. Tour a nearby horse- Bukhara breeding farm devoted to the Akhal- Samarkand Tekke, the oldest cultured breed of CHINA horses in the world. Stop at Kipchuk , a huge modern mosque in Ashgabat Hisor former Turkmen President Niyazov’s TAJIKISTAN hometown and whose golden dome TURKMENISTAN Dushanbe had to be lowered in place by helicop- ter. Join a local archaeologist to visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Nisa, once an important trading center of the ancient Parthian kingdom. IRAN AFGHANISTAN Additional details will be sent to confirmed travelers. ASHGABAT, TURKMENISTAN

mosque, a 16th-century SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 9 TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11 madrasah and an 18th-century TASHKENT SAMARKAND fortress. Silk Route traders On our all-day tour of Tashkent, Today in Samarkand, visit a who traversed the valley in the stop at Alisher Navoi Park to mosque designed by Tamerlane Middle Ages made Hisor a see its monument honoring the and dedicated to his favorite center of commerce and learn- park’s namesake, the father of wife and wander among the ing. At the Hisor Fortress, view Uzbek literature. Then visit the nearby mausoleums of Shah- its remaining thick, burnt-brick Abdul Kasim Madrasah; the I-Zinde. Next explore the Ulug monumental gate framed by Kukeldash Madrasah, among Bek Observatory, built by Ta- two towers. SERENA HOTEL (B,L,D) the largest in Central Asia; merlane’s grandson, a remark- and the Jummi Mosque. In the able astronomer-king, then visit FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 7 library of the Muy Muborok the workshop of a UNESCO- DUSHANBE / Madrasah, view the Uthman sponsored fine-papermaking KHUJAND Koran, believed by Sunni Mus- project. EMIR HAN HOTEL (B,L,D) Spend today in Dushanbe, lims to be the oldest true Koran exploring its Museum of Antiq- in the world. Visit the studio of WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 12 uities and the bustling Shohm- a contemporary ceramicist and SAMARKAND / ansur Bazaar. In the evening, fly the Museum of Applied Arts. BUKHARA to Khujand, Tajikistan’s second- Enjoy a free evening and dinner En route to Bukhara, stop in the largest city and another ancient independently. LOTTE CITY HOTEL ancient town of Shakrisabze, Silk Road stop. At dinner, hear TASHKENT PALACE (B,L) birthplace of Tamerlane. Visit representatives of a local Tajik his Ak Saray, or “White Palace,” NGO discuss local humanitar- MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 10 complex, known for its massive ian projects. HOTEL SUGD (B,L,D) TASHKENT / portal covered with blue, white SAMARKAND and gold ceramics. Arriving in SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 8 This morning travel by ex- Bukhara, check in to our tradi- KHUJAND / TASH- press train to the desert city tional hotel. HOTEL LYABI HAUZ (B,L,D) KENT, UZBEKISTAN of Samarkand, located at the Following breakfast, explore midpoint of the Silk Road. Visit THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 13 Khujand, visiting the Timurmalik its famed (“Place of BUKHARA Fortress, Sogdian History Mu- Sand”) Square and the Gur- Bukhara, a storied city of seum and colorful Panshanbe Emir Mausoleum, final rest- and madrasahs, has Bazaar. This afternoon drive to ing place of Tamerlane who Central Asia’s only intact, still- Uzbekistan’s capital, Tashkent, conquered Central Asia in the inhabited historic core. Begin a mix of tree-lined boulevards, 14th century. Be dazzled by the our tour at Lyabl-Hauz Square, Soviet-style buildings, mosques mausoleum complex’s brilliant the center of the , and . LOTTE CITY HOTEL blue mosaic and work. and the nearby Kukeldash TASHKENT PALACE (B,L,D) EMIR HAN HOTEL (B,L,D) Madrasah, the largest Koranic ALLEY OF YOUTH, BISHKEK, KYRGYZSTAN FLAT CAKES, BISHKEK, KYRGYZSTAN

TASHKENT CATHEDRAL, UZBEKISTAN UZBEK MASTER CARVES DECORATIVE PLATE

school in Central Asia. Stroll SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 16 music and dance during dinner. through colorful to the KHIVA HOTEL ASIA KHIVA (B,L,D) Kalon and Mosque. At According to legend, the oasis the Ark Citadel, meet with the of Khiva was founded by Shem, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 17 museum’s senior advisor, then a son of Noah, at the spot KHIVA / TASHKENT explore Bukhara’s old Jewish where he found water in the Explore Khiva’s Old Town this Quarter. HOTEL LYABI HAUZ (B,L,D) desert. Begin our walking tour morning, with time for inde- here at the Tash Hauli (“Stone”) pendent exploration. Later, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 14 Palace, built in the 1830s and transfer to the regional airport BUKHARA residence of Allah Kuli for our flight to Tashkent, where This morning admire the Sum- and his four legal wives. Admire we spend the night. LOTTE CITY mer Palace of the last local the Dzhuma Mosque’s carved HOTEL TASHKENT PALACE (B,L,D) emir, built by the to wooden ceiling and columns, keep him in luxurious isolation. then climb the watchtower of TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18 TASHKENT / U.S. Tour the Museum of National the Old Fortress for a sweeping Transfer to the airport early this Crafts and then continue to the view of Khiva. This evening af- morning for flights back to the Bakhaudin Nakshbah Complex, ter our farewell reception, enjoy U.S. (B) built for a mystic and founder a performance of Khorezmian of an order of Sufis. Enjoy free time to explore Bukhara inde- pendently, perhaps visiting its bazaar. This evening, attend a performance by local artists at a local madrasah. HOTEL LYABI HAUZ (B,L,D)

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 15 BUKHARA / KHIVA Depart Bukhara for the great city of Khiva, crossing long stretches of the Kyzyl Kum, or Red Sands Desert, on a route once trod by camel caravans. Near the Turkmenistan border, stop for a look at the River, and upon arrival in Khiva, check in to our hotel where we gather for dinner this TOKMOK MINARET, evening. HOTEL ASIA KHIVA (B,L,D) KYRGYZSTAN the post-trip extension; other visa fees not listed above Immunization costs Meals and beverages other than those specified as included Independent and private transfers Trip Information Trip-cancellation/interruption and baggage insurance DATES Excess-baggage charges Personal items such as internet August 30 to September 18, 2018 (20 days) access, telephone and fax calls, laundry and gratuities for nongroup services SIZE 30 participants (single accommodations AIR ARRANGEMENTS limited—please call for availability) You are responsible for booking and purchasing airfare to the start location and from the end location of the program. These COST* air purchases are NOT included in the program cost. To assist $10,695 per person, double occupancy you in making these independent arrangements, we will send $11,995 per person, single occupancy you details with your confirmation materials on when to arrive *Stanford Alumni Association nonmembers and depart. add $300 per person WHAT TO EXPECT INCLUDED We consider this program to be moderately strenuous due to the 18 nights of best-available hotel accommodations countries’ weak infrastructures outside of the capital cities, requiring 18 breakfasts, 17 lunches, 16 dinners Welcome and patience with local service standards. It is at times physically farewell receptions Gratuities to guides and drivers for demanding and busy. Travelers need to handle their own luggage all group activities All tours and excursions as described at airport customs and border crossings where porters are not in the itinerary Visa fees for Uzbekistan Transfers and available. Daily excursions involve one to three miles of walking baggage handling on program arrival and departure days on city streets, which can be uneven or cobbled. At ancient sites, All internal air travel as outlined in the itinerary Minimal paths can be rocky and uneven. In museums and at sites, guided medical, accident and evacuation insurance Educational tours require climbing up and down several flights of stairs, which program with lecture series and pre-departure materials, may not have handrails. Elevators are limited or unavailable. Drives including recommended reading list, a selected book, map can be long; the longest drives are up to eight hours. Due to poor and travel information Services of our professional tour roads, travel may be slow at times. Medical treatment and care are manager to assist you throughout the program not always up to U.S. standards. Participants must be physically fit, active and in good health. We expect that participants will be a self- NOT INCLUDED selecting group whose interest in the places we visit outweighs the International and U.S. domestic airfare Passport fees Visa need for creature comforts. We welcome travelers 15 years of age fees for Tajikistan, which must be obtained directly by each and older on this program. individual traveler; visa fees for Turkmenistan for travelers on Terms & Conditions if you purchase your policy within Deposit & Final Payment war, quarantine, force majeure or A $1,000-per-person deposit is 14 days of written confirmation of other causes beyond our control. required to reserve your space. your participation on the trip. All such losses or expenses will Sign up online at alumni.stanford. have to be borne by the passenger Eligibility as tour rates provide arrangements edu/trip?centralasia2018 or call the We encourage membership in the only for the time stated. We reserve Travel/Study office at (650) 725- Stanford Alumni Association as the 1093. Final payment is due 120 days the right to make such alterations program cost for nonmembers is to this published itinerary as may prior to departure. As a condition $300 more than the members’ price. of participation, all confirmed be deemed necessary. The right is A person traveling as a guest paid reserved to cancel any program prior participants are required for by a current member will not to sign a Release of Liability. to departure in which case the entire be charged the nonmember fee. payment will be refunded without For more information or to purchase Cancellations & Refunds further obligation on our part. The Deposits and any payments are a membership, visit alumni.stanford/ right is also reserved to decline to refundable, less a $500-per-person goto/membership or call (650) accept or retain any person as a cancellation fee, until 120 days prior to 725-0692. member of the program. No refund departure. After that date, refunds can will be made for an unused portion Responsibility of any tour unless arrangements be made only if the program is sold The Stanford Alumni Association, are made in sufficient time to avoid out and your place(s) can be resold, Stanford University and our operators penalties. Baggage is carried at the in which case a $1,000-per-person act only as agents for the passenger owner’s risk entirely. The airlines cancellation fee will apply. with respect to transportation and concerned are not to be held exercise every care possible in doing Insurance responsible for any act, omission or so. However, we can assume no Stanford Travel/Study provides event during the time that passengers all travelers who are U.S. or liability for injury, damage, loss, are not onboard their plane or Canadian citizens with minimal accident, delay or irregularity in conveyance. Neither the Stanford connection with the service of any medical, accident and evacuation Alumni Association, Stanford automobile, motor coach, launch coverage under our group-travel University nor our operators accept or any other conveyance used in insurance policy. Our group policy liability for any carrier’s cancellation carrying out this program or for the is intended to provide minimal penalty incurred by the purchase of acts or defaults of any company or levels of protection while you are a nonrefundable ticket in connection person engaged in conveying the traveling on this program. You may with the tour. Program price is based passenger or in carrying out the choose to subscribe to optional trip- on rates in effect in January 2018 and arrangements of the program. We is subject to change without notice to cancellation and baggage insurance. cannot accept any responsibility for Information offering such insurance reflect fluctuations in exchange rates, losses or additional expenses due tariffs or fuel charges. will be provided to travelers with their to delay or changes in air or other welcome materials. The product services, sickness, weather, strike, offered includes special benefits

© COPYRIGHT 2018 STANFORD ALUMNI TELEPHONE (650) 725-1093 ASSOCIATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. EMAIL [email protected] PRINTED ON RECYCLED, FSC-CERTIFIED California Seller of Travel Program Registration #2048 523-50 PAPER IN THE U.S. STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY was fascinated“I to see how these Central Asian countries, steeped in so much REBECCA REYNOLDS, ’71, FIVE STANS, 2015 STANS, ’71, FIVE REYNOLDS, REBECCA peoples in person have my deepened understanding of of the this world.” part professor staff, trip and and most all,of actually theseexperiencing places and KALON MINARET AND MOSQUE, BUKHARA, UZBEKISTAN BUKHARA, MOSQUE, AND MINARET KALON history, are evolving now. of this itinerary trip, The the enrichment provided by our Stanford Travel/Study Nonprofit Org. Frances C. Arrillaga Alumni Center U.S. Postage 326 Galvez Street PAID Stanford, CA 94305-6105 Stanford Alumni (650) 725-1093 Association

WHERE OLD TRADITIONS ABOUND

August 30 to September 18, 2018 STANFORD TRAVEL/STUDY