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Home , Alpine style, Andrew Lock, Annapurna, Annapurna II, Annapurna IV, Brigitte Muir

Appendix: Record of Australian in the Himalaya

Table 1 Australian Himalayan climbs, 1922–2009 (based on surveys in Wild magazine)

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments 1922 Mt Everest George Finch, member Unsuccessful . Finch First serious attempt (8850 m) of 11-man British and Geoffrey Bruce on Mt Everest . N Ridge/Face, expedition reached 8350 m using Australian Finch supplementary oxygen . climbed higher than any other human had previously climbed . Finch proved that supplementary oxygen could definitely benefit climbers . 1957 Exploratory Geoffrey Bratt and Explored in Siachen Exploratory trip expedition, Grahame Budd, Glacier area . Climbed mounted by , members of eight-man Towitz Peak (6400 m) Imperial College British expedition led and Island Peak Mountaineering by (6860 m). Club . 1960 (7470 m) Jon Stephenson, Unsuccessful . Stephenson first NW Ridge, member of four-man Stephenson climbed Australian to climb Karakoram, British expedition with to 6640 m to 7000 m without Pakistan and solo to 7000 m . supplementary oxygen . 1963 Langtang II Peter Taylor Successful . Climbed Sometimes cited (6583 m) E Face, with four Sherpas . as first Australian Central Probably shortest-ever expedition to Himalayan expedition . Himalaya; however, Four days from road to Taylor was an base camp; five days itinerant British to climb mountain . geologist stationed in Australia for a few years . 1975 Jannu (7710 m) Geoff Wayatt, Unsuccessful . High Wayatt first N Face, Eastern member of 12‑man point reached: 7360 m . Australian on Nepal ‘modern’ expedition . expedition led by He and Jim Strang Peter Farrell overcame major obstacle of route with bold, alpine- style assault .

535 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Mulkila IV Michel Altermann Unsuccessful . Reached First truly Australian (6517 m) (), Garry 6000 m . Six members expedition to the W Ridge, Lahoul, Ash, Adrian Blake, subsequently climbed Himalaya . Organised Dorothy Brown, Mulkila V (5930 m). and led by Warwick Warwick Deacock, Deacock . Jim Dorrington, Harry Eldridge, Josephine Flood, Terri Jack (UK), Derek Lucas, Peter Morris, Michael Richards, John Ryder, Keith Seddon, John Wanless 1976 Bethartoli John Attkinson, Peter Successful . South (6318 m) Marsh, Bob Ryan, Gangotri, India Kevin Westren 1977 Charlie Cuthbertson, Unsuccessful . First of many (6864 m) E Ridge, Andy Henderson, Henderson, Hendy Australian attempts Garhwal, India Martin Hendy, Garry and Noble climbed to on this striking and Matthew, Malcolm within 50 vertical m difficult mountain. Noble of summit . Stopped by bad weather . trekking Geoff Batten, Mike Successful . First Australian peaks Eastern Douglas, Fergus ascent of popular Nepal Fitzgerald, Greg trekking peak Imja Hodge, Phil Robinson, Tse (Island Peak; Mendelt Tillema 6189 m) and of Parchamo (6187 m). 1978 Dunagiri (7066 m) John Armstrong, Ken Successful. Macartney- Most significant SW Ridge, Baldwin, Ken Bell, Andy Snape reached summit; of early Australian Garhwal, India Blakers, Andrew Bond, Hall stopped 200 m expeditions . First Keith Burns, Peter short . Epic descent Australian ascent Cocker, John Finnigan, through electrical storm . of 7000 m peak . , Theo Hall suffered frostbite. Launched careers Hooy, Tim Macartney- Cocker organised of Tim Macartney- Snape, Charlie Massy, helicopter rescue of Hall Snape and Mark Podkolinski, from Col Camp . Lincoln Hall . Ben Sandilands, Martin Stone 1979 Dharamsura Peter Allen, Max Successful . All but Berry First Australian (White Sail, Berry, Ed Neve, Mike reached summit . ascent . . 6445 m) Rheinberger, Andrew SW Ridge, Kulu, Rothfield, Gary Wills India Angdu Ri Mike Rheinberger, Successful . Both (5954 m) Andrew Rothfield reached summit . NE Ridge, Kulu, India Ali Ratna Tibba Phil Cullen, Lincoln Successful . Hall and First Australian (5750 m) SW Hall, Tim Macartney- Macartney-Snape ascent . Alpine style . Ridge, Kulu, India Snape reached summit . They also climbed Geru (5100 m).

536 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments 1980 I Lynne Griffith, member Unsuccessful . High On first trip to (8167 m) of US women’s point reached: 6500 m . , Lynne NW Ridge, expedition led by Vera Expedition abandoned Griffith killed when Central Nepal Komarkova when Griffith killed in avalanche swept avalanche . Camp II . III Geof Bartram, Adrian Unsuccessful . High Worst Australian (7555 m) N Face, Blake, Ken Bowes, point reached: 5000 m . tragedy ever Central Nepal Jonathan Chester, Expedition abandoned in Himalaya; Steve Colman, when Morse, Reeves compounded when Warwick Deacock, and Schmidt killed in Faye Kerr died of Brian Fearnley (NZ), avalanche . stomach problems Jack Higgs, Ray in India after Johnston, Faye Kerr, expedition . Steve McDowell, Colin Monteath (NZ), Stafford Morse, Nick Reeves, Richard Schmidt Gauri Shankar Chris Bennett, Graham Unsuccessful . High First Himalayan (7146 m) Brammer, Wayne point reached: expedition of Army SE Ridge, Carroll, Pat Cullinan, subsidiary summit Alpine Association Eastern Nepal Mick Hardless, Tseringma (6333 m). (AAA). First ascent Val Lishman, Jim of Tseringma . MacDonald, John Remynse, Paul Richards, Barry Young Changabang Peter Allen, Paul Successful . Anderson, First Australian (6864 m) E Ridge, Anderson, Max Berry, Rheinberger and ascent . Achievement Garhwal, India John Dunlop, Tim Rothfield reached marred by death of Hughes, Pat Miller, summit . Tim Hughes in fall in Malcolm Noble, Mike Rishi Gorge on walk Rheinberger, Andrew out . Rothfield 1981 Shivling (6543 m) Greg Child and Rick Successful . Georges First ascent of E Pillar, Gangotri, White, members of Bettembourg, Child, E Pillar of Shivling . India international expedition Scott and White First Himalayan led by reached summit after success for Greg 13-day alpine-style Child . push . Ganesh IV Brian Agnew, John Unsuccessful . High Second AAA (7102 m) Cashman, Roy point reached: 5800 m . expedition to S Face/E Ridge, McDonald, Rob Expedition abandoned Himalaya . Central Nepal Phillpot, Phil Pitham, when Sloane was killed Fritz Schaumburg, by avalanche that swept Dave Simpson, Dave Camp II . Sloane, Jim Truscott, Zac Zaharias Hooman Aprin (USA), Successful . Hall, First Australian (6854 m) Lincoln Hall, Andy Henderson and ascent . N Ridge, Eastern Henderson, Damien Macartney-Snape Nepal Jones, Tim Macartney- reached summit . Snape, Ken McMahon, Dave Pluth (USA)

537 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Anyemaqen Geof Bartram, Lincoln Successful . Bartram, First Australian (6282 m) E Face, Hall, Andy Henderson, Hall, Henderson and ascent . Kunlun, Central Tim Macartney-Snape, Macartney-Snape Charlie Massy climbed E Peak (6152 m); Hall and Macartney-Snape traversed to main summit . Yalung Kang Cherie Bremer-Kamp, Unsuccessful . High Bremer-Kamp had (8505 m) N Face, Chris Chandler (USA) point reached: 7800 m . been on earlier Eastern Nepal US expeditions to Dhaulagiri and . 1982 Changabang Roddy Mackenzie, Successful . All four Second ascent of (6864 m) Mark Moorhead, Jon climbers reached route; first in alpine SW Pillar, Muir, Craig Nottle summit . style. Very difficult Garhwal, India climb technically; all four climbers on their first Himalayan trip. (8516 m) Adrian Burgess (UK), Unsuccessful . High From first Australian N Ridge, Eastern Fred From, Peter point reached: 8250 m . to climb more than Nepal Hillary (NZ), Paul 8000 m without Moores (UK) supplementary oxygen . Trisul (7120 m) Geof Bartram, John Unsuccessful . High First guided Garhwal, India Coulton, Mike Groom, point reached: 6800 m . Australian climb in Lincoln Hall, Tim Stopped by sustained, Himalaya . Bartram, Macartney-Snape and violent storm . Hall and Macartney- four US climbers Snape were guides . Keith Egerton, Hugh Unsuccessful . High Expedition plagued (7816 m) Foxcroft, Tom Millar, point reached: 7400 by illness and SE Ridge, Ed Neve, Mike m, by Rheinberger accidents . Neve and Garhwal, India Rheinberger, Gary Wills and Wills . Stopped by Millar evacuated by storm . helicopter . East Kulu John Burrow, Nick Successful . Climbed First Australian expedition Kulu, Groves (UK), John a number of peaks: ascents . India Marshall, Brett Ryan, Corner Peak (6140 m); Terry Ryan Kulu (5882 m); Tiger Tooth (5980 m); The Dome (5880 m); Shigri Parbat (6640 m). Peak 29 (Dakura, Brian Agnew, member Unsuccessful . High Expedition plagued 7837 m) S Ridge, of large British Army point reached: 6000 m . by problems Central Nepal expedition including: gear lost in transit, wrong approach to mountain, dispute with local villagers on trek in and horrific snow conditions on 8 km-long ridge. Kwangde Shar Mick Chapman, Colin Successful . First Australian (6093 m) Eastern Pont ascent . Nepal

538 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Stephen Bunton, Tim Successful . Also First Australian (6476 m) N Face Carroll, Jeff Crass, Ivan climbed Nau Lekh ascents . (Glacier), Eastern Dessailly, Mike Myers, (6363 m). Nepal Peter Webber and one other climber Pisang Peak Bruce , Ian Successful . First Australian (6091 m) Ravenscroft, Fritz ascent of this SW Face/Ridge, Schaumburg (guide), trekking peak north Central Nepal Enn Troopold and three of the Annapurna other clients Himal . 1983 Annapurna II Mike Groom, Lincoln Successful . Hall, First ascent of difficult (7937 m) S Face, Hall, Andy Henderson, Henderson, Macartney- route on S Face . Central Nepal Tim Macartney-Snape, Snape and Mortimer Second 7000 m reached summit after peak climbed by two bivouacs at 7800 m . Australians . Annapurna Stephen Bunton, Unsuccessful . High III (7555 m) Jonathon Chester, point reached: 7300 m, SW Face, Steve McDowell, by Chester, McDowell Central Nepal Adrian Teague, Dave and Teague . Turned Wagland back on summit ridge by high winds . Makalu (8463 m) Bill Denz (NZ), Fred Unsuccessful . High Double tragedy SW Pillar, Eastern From, point reached: 7600 m, as Denz killed in Nepal (NZ), Mark Moorhead by From and Moorhead . avalanche and Moorhead in fall . Lobsang Spire Greg Child, member of Successful . Child, Scott First ascent of (5715 m) nine-man international and Pete Thexton (UK) Lobsang Spire . Child SE Face Broad expedition led by Doug reached summit of later reached 8000 m Peak (8047 m) Scott (UK) Lobsang Spire . on but W Face SW Pillar turned back with Karakoram, ailing partner, Pete Pakistan Thexton, who died of pulmonary oedema on the descent . Nilgiri North Peter Allen, Dave Successful . All except Third 7000 m (7061 m) Evans, Bruce Fox, Fox reached summit . peak climbed by SE Face, Peter Lambert, Terry Australians . First Central Nepal McCullagh, Phil major Himalayan Pitham, Mark Whetu peak climbed by (NZ), Zac Zaharias AAA . Fourth ascent of Nilgiri North and second of SE face . 1984 Pumori (7,161 m) Geof Bartram and Successful . All seven New route on SE Face, Eastern Chris Curry, members reached summit . SE Face . First Nepal of seven-man Australian ascent . international expedition

539 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Mt Everest Geof Bartram, Lincoln Successful. Macartney- Remarkable climb (8850 m) N Face, Hall, Andy Henderson, Snape and Mortimer of Mt Everest . First Tibet Tim Macartney-Snape, reached summit . Australian ascent . Greg Mortimer Henderson stopped First ascent of Great 50 vertical m below Couloir . First ascent summit, suffered severe of new route without frostbite to both hands . supplementary oxygen . Smallest party ever to climb new route . Mt Everest Fred From, Peter Unsuccessful . High Double tragedy as (8850 m) Hillary (NZ), Kim point reached: 8200 m, From and Nottle W Ridge, Logan (NZ), Roddy by From and Logan . killed in falls from Eastern Nepal Mackenzie, , high on W Ridge . Craig Nottle Kangguru Michael Chapman Unsuccessful . High Attempt in winter . (7010 m) (UK), Greg Martin, Mike point reached: 6930 m, SE Ridge, Rheinberger by Rheinberger . Central Nepal Cherie Bremer-Kamp, Unsuccessful . High Highest altitude (8586 m) N Face, Chris Chandler (USA) point reached: 7880 m . reached by Eastern Nepal Chandler died of Australian woman . cerebral oedema at high point . Khartang John Lamb, Ray Vran Unsuccessful . High Attempt in winter . (6853 m) point reached: 6100 m . NE Face, Stopped by cold and Eastern Nepal high winds . Peter Lambert, Successful . Attempt AAA expedition . First (Tent Peak, ‘Lawdy’ Law, David on nearby Singu Chuli Australian ascent of 5500 m) Munro, Andrew Smith, stopped at 5940 m by Tharpu Chuli . E Face Singu Peter Talbot, Peter deep and dangerous Chuli (Fluted Ward snow . Peak, 501 m) Central Nepal 1985 Shivling (6543 m) , Jon Muir, Unsuccessful . High SW Pillar, Ed Neve, Terry Tremble point reached: 5900 m . Gangotri, India Stopped by bad weather . Mt Everest Peter Allen, Bruce Unsuccessful on all Australian (8850 m) Farmer and Mike three routes . Severe Rheinberger W Ridge/N Rheinberger, members avalanche problems . reached high point Face/N Ridge, of 14-man New High points reached: on all three routes Tibet Zealand expedition led 7165 m on W Ridge; attempted . Farmer by Austin Brookes 7165 m on N Face; had been member of 7320 m on N Ridge . 1981 New Zealand expedition to Molamenqing . Ama Dablam Robert Staszewski, Unsuccessful . Stopped Attempt in winter . (6854 m) member of five- by bad weather and S Ridge, man New Zealand illness of members . Eastern Nepal expedition

540 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Mustagh Ata Steve McDowell, Jane Unsuccessful . Stopped (7546 m) W Face, White, Rick White and by early arrival of winter Pamir, Western other climbers weather . China Lhamu Ghang Greg Bales (Canada), Successful . (5009 m) W Face, Andrew Borrell and Eastern Nepal British climber Dharamsura Frank Moon, Phil Successful . All reached (White Sail, Pitham, Zac Zaharias 5800 m on first attempt. 6445 m) SW Pitham reached summit Ridge, Kulu, India on second attempt climbing alone . North Annapurna Rick Moor, Derek Successful . All but AAA expedition . First region Trekking Murphy, Mick Pezet, Murphy climbed Pisang Australian ascent of peaks, Central Andrew Smith, Jim Peak (6091 m); all Chulu West . Nepal Strohfeldt, Jim van except Murphy and Gelder, Jeff Williams Smith climbed Chulu West (6220 m). 1986 Jannu (7710 m) Keith Egerton, Don Unsuccessful . High Keith Egerton died at SW Ridge, French (NZ), Terry Point reached: 7000 m, 6500 m of oedema . Eastern Nepal Tremble by French . Phil Balsdom, Greg Successful . Child, First ascent of NW IV (7925 m) Child, Tim Macartney- Tom Hall-Hargis (USA) Ridge . Second NW Ridge, Snape, members of and Macartney-Snape ascent of mountain . Karakoram, eight-man Australian/ reached summit after Child, Hall-Hargis Pakistan US expedition bivouac at 7860 m . and Randy Leavitt (USA) later unsuccessful in attempt on E Face of Nameless Tower (6237 m), Trango Group . Shivling (6543 m) Graeme Hill, Veronique Successful . Graeme Hill, Ascent took 14 SW Pillar, Hill, Brigitte Muir, Jon Brigitte Muir and Jon days of continuous Gangotri, India Muir Muir reached summit of climbing in ‘capsule’ W Peak (6505 m). style . Rock pitches up to grade 21, A4 . Liaison officer died in freak accident on fixed ropes in earlier attempt . Broad Peak Brian Agnew, Successful . Agnew, First Australian (8047 m) W Face, Jonathan Chester, Chester, Cullinan, ascent of Broad Karakoram, Norm Crookston, Pat Lambert, McCullagh, Peak . Second Pakistan Cullinan, Tony Delaney, Rheinberger, van Gelder 8000 m peak Peter Lambert, Terry and Zaharias reached climbed by McCullagh, Rick summit . Australians . Cullinan Moor, Derek Murphy, rescued ill German Mick Pezet, Mike climber on descent . Rheinberger, Jim Truscott, Jim van Gelder, Zac Zaharias

541 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Kangchenjunga Shane Chemello, Chris Unsuccessful . High (8586 m) Frost, Mike Groom, point reached: 8400 m, SW Face, Jim Strohfeldt, Jim van by Groom . Eastern Nepal Gelder Rimo I (7385 m) Roddy Mackenzie, Unsuccessful . High One of the highest S Face/SE Brett Ryan, Terry Ryan, point reached: 6800 m, unclimbed peaks in Ridge, Eastern members of 14-person by Hillary, Skip Horner the world . Expedition Karakoram, India international expedition (USA) and Mackenzie. had problems with led by Peter Hillary (NZ) Indian military: film confiscated, Hillary held at gunpoint . Langisha Ri Simon Cox (NZ), John Successful . First Australian (6437 m) S Face, Goulstone, Marty ascent . Central Nepal Hunter (NZ), Steve Upton Pumori (7145 m) Steve McDonald, Unsuccessful . High S Ridge, Eastern member of six- point reached: 6545 m . Nepal man New Zealand expedition 1987 Kedarnath (NZ), Successful . Bradey Jon Muir soloed a Peak (6940 m, Geoff Little, Brigitte and Jon Muir reached traverse of all three 6830 m, 6500 m) Muir, Jon Muir, Louise summit of Kedarnath peaks in 41 hours . Gangotri, India Shepherd Dome . Little and Brigitte New route, alpine Muir reached 6250 m . style . Geoff Little and Successful . Bradey, First Australian (8068 m) Brigitte Muir, members Little and Carol ascent . Third Gasherbrum II of 16-person New McDermott (NZ) climbed 8000 m peak (8035 m) Zealand expedition Gasherbrum II by SE climbed by an Karakoram, Ridge . Unsuccessful Australian . Peak Pakistan on Gasherbrum I, NW climbed in three-day, Ridge/Face . High point alpine-style push reached: 6800 m . from low camp . K2 (8611 m) Greg Child and Tim Unsuccessful . High First Australian E Face, Macartney-Snape, point reached: 7100 m . attempt on world’s Karakoram, members of seven- Stopped by bad second-highest Pakistan man international weather and poor snow peak . expedition led by Doug conditions . Scott Colin Gordon, David Successful . Nash and First Australian (7553 m) N Face, Hunter, Glen Nash, Turner reached summit ascent . Third ascent Tibet John Smart, Rod in four-day, alpine-style of mountain . Turner, Louis Whitton push Kangchenjunga John Coulton, Mike Successful . Both First Australian (8586 m) Groom reached summit . ascent . Fourth SW Face, 8000 m peak Eastern Nepal climbed by Australians . Forced bivouac in open at 7900 m on descent . Both suffered severe frostbite .

542 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Kangchenjunga Carol Brand-Maher, Unsuccessful . High (8586 m) W Face, Terry Tremble, Jim van point reached: 7500 m . Eastern Nepal Gelder Mt Everest Peter Hillary (NZ), Kim Unsuccessful . High Logan and (8850 m) S Pillar, Logan (NZ), Jon Muir, point reached: Rheinberger climbed Eastern Nepal Mike Rheinberger 8020 m, by Logan S Pillar in alpine and Rheinberger . style from Camp I at 6860 m to high point at 8020 m . 1988 Shivling (6543 m) Nic Deka and Jim Duff, Successful on Kedarnath members of 17-man Kedarnath Dome . Dome (6830 m) international expedition Unsuccessful on S Pillar Gangotri, India of Shivling . Kedarnath Ydeet Winter- Successful . Ski descent First Australian ski Dome (6830 m) Irving, member of from summit . descent of major Gangotri, India international ski Himalayan peak . expedition Mt Everest Brian Agnew, Paul Successful . Bayne, Australian (8850 m) Bayne, Austin Brookes, Cullinan and Muir Bicentennial Everest SE Ridge, Pat Cullinan, Chris reached summit . Expedition . Second Eastern Nepal Curry, Tony Delaney, All used supplementary Australian ascent Bruce Farmer, Peter oxygen . of Mt Everest . First Lambert, Terry ascent of Mt Everest McCullagh, Rick Moor, by route Jon Muir, Mick Pezet, without using Phil Pitham, Mike Sherpa support on Rheinberger, Andrew mountain . Eleven Smith, Jim Strohfeldt, climbers reached Terry Tremble, Jim 8600 m or higher . Truscott, Jim van Gelder, Zac Zaharias Baruntse John Armstrong, Unsuccessful . High Armstrong, Baldwin, (7168 m) Ken Baldwin, Tom point reached: 7020 m, Bell, Finnigan and SE Ridge, Barcham, Charlie by Baldwin, Finnigan, Hooy members Eastern Nepal Barton, Ken Bell, John Hodge, Hooy, Lane of 1978 Dunagiri Finnigan, Peter Hodge and Steffen. Stopped expedition . (USA), Theo Hooy, by dangerous snow Peter Lane, Will Steffen conditions on summit ridge . Pumori (7161 m) Armando Corvini, Matt Successful . Corvini, Corvini suffered SE Ridge, Godbold, Richard Howes, Vran and frostbite during Eastern Nepal Howes, , Woolums reached bivouac on ascent . Ray Vran, Jeff Williams, summit . Scott Woolums (USA) Makalu (8463 m) Greg Child, member of Unsuccessful . High W Face, Eastern 11-man international point reached: 8100 m . Nepal expedition led by Doug Stopped by evacuation Scott of Rick Allen (UK), injured in avalanche .

543 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments 1989 Mt Everest Roddy Mackenzie, Successful . Mackenzie Mackenzie sixth (8850 m) member of 15-man and Adrian Burgess Australian to stand SE Ridge, international expedition (UK) reached on the summit of Mt Eastern Nepal summit . Both used Everest . supplementary oxygen . Mustagh Ata Ken McConnell and Successful . First Australian (7546 m) W Face, Mike Rheinberger Rheinberger, Shaun ascent . Rheinberger Pamir, Western (guide), members of Norman (NZ) and two climbed mountain on China six-man international British clients reached snowshoes . expedition summit . Himalchuli West Paul Bayne (guide) Successful . Bayne, First Australian (7540 m) Central and Campbell Mercer, (NZ), Jan ascent . Second Nepal, SW Ridge members of 12-man Gangdal (Norway) and ascent of mountain . international expedition Mercer reached summit . New, technically hard route involving traverse of 3 km- long ridge with 11 major pinnacles . Nameless Greg Child, Mark Unsuccessful . High Alpine-style attempt Tower (6237 m) Wilford (USA) point reached: 5800 m . for 13 consecutive NE Face, days on 1500 m Trango Group, vertical wall . Six Karakoram, days of storm . Pakistan Ama Dablam Shane Chemello, John Unsuccessful . High (6854 m) Coulton, Paul Gray, point reached: 6750 m, SW Ridge, Mike Groom, Chris by Coulton and Groom . Eastern Nepal Hawthorne, Stan Pickering Peak 5886 Damien Barrett, Wade Successful . Climbed (5886 m) S Face, Stevens during ski traverse of Karakoram, Biafo-Hispar Glacier Pakistan system . 1990 Mt Everest Tim Macartney-Snape Successful . Climbed SE First ascent of (8850 m) Ridge after climbing to entire 8850 m of SE Ridge, 7500 m on W Ridge . Mt Everest from Eastern Nepal sea level to summit . Second ascent of Mt Everest by Macartney-Snape, both without supplementary oxygen . Tim Ball, Tony Dignan, Successful . Groom First Australian (8201 m) Mike Groom, Steve reached summit . Dignan ascent . Second NW Face, Tibet McDowell, Jane White, climbed to 8050 m . 8000 m peak Rick White climbed by Groom .

544 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Shisha Mark Lemaire, member Successful . Russell First Australian Pangma(Central of six-man international Brice (NZ), Lemaire, ascent of the central Summit) (8026 m) expedition Eirik Tryti (Norway), peak . Lemaire had N Ridge, Tibet Olav Ulvund (Norway) climbed to 7400 m and Mark Vallance (UK) on Changtse in 1988 reached summit . as member of New Zealand expedition . Menlungtse Greg Child, John Unsuccessful . High Alpine-style attempt (7181 m) Roskelly (USA) point reached: 6450 m . on one of highest SE Ridge, Tibet Stopped by dangerous unclimbed peaks in cornices . Himalaya . Mt Everest Chris Curry and Mike Unsuccessful . High Curry’s second (8850 m) Rheinberger, members point reached: 8650 m, and Rheinberger’s N Ridge/NE of nine-man New by Hugh van Noorden fourth attempt on Ridge, Tibet Zealand expedition (NZ). Curry and Mt Everest . Rheinberger reached 8565 m . Stopped by storms and dangerous snow conditions . K2 (8611 m) Greg Child, Lyle Successful . Child, First Australian N Ridge, Closs, Phil Erschler Mortimer and Swenson ascent of world’s Karakoram, (USA), Peter Keustler, reached summit . second-highest Pakistan Greg Mortimer, Steve Erschler stopped 200 m mountain . Mortimer Swenson (USA), short . only Australian to Margaret Werner climb world’s two highest peaks . Mustagh Ata Paul Bayne, Simon Successful . Bayne and Alpine touring skis (7546 m) W Face, Davis (NZ), Rik Deaton, Davis reached summit . used above 6100 m Pamir, Western Philip Milichamp (NZ) on ascent . China 1991 Kedarnath Peak Nevin Agnew, Successful . Zaharias, Yadev descended (6940 m) N Face, Lance Einam, Mike Kilcullen and Indian alone in the dark Gangotri, India Kilcullen, Bob Killip, members g . Singh, n . and was never seen Brian Morrissey, Zac D . Sherpa and M . R . again . First ascent of Zaharias and 10 Indian Yadev reached summit . the . Army members Mt Everest Mike Rheinberger, Unsuccessful . Rheinberger’s fifth (8850 m) N Face, member of US Rheinberger turned Everest attempt . Tibet expedition back at 8500 m by high winds . Ama Dablam Warwick Baird, Frank Successful . Baird First Australian (6854 m) Moon reached summit, winter ascent . SW Ridge, Nepal climbing with Sherpa from Korean Expedition . Mt Everest Ian Collins, Michael Unsuccessful . High Groom survived 900 (8850 m) Groom, Andrew Lock, point of 8200 m m fall in avalanche . SE Ridge, Nepal Mark Squires reached . Stopped by soft snow and high winds .

545 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments 1992 Makalu (8463 m) Mike Rheinberger, Unsuccessful . High Third Australian W Face/NW member of UK point of 8250 m attempt on Makalu . Ridge, Nepal expedition reached on NW Ridge . None successful . Stopped by deep snow and exhaustion . Nameless Tower Greg Child, Mark Successful . Both First Australian (6239 m) S Face, Wilford (USA) reached summit . New ascent . Massive rock Karakoram, route up S Face . fall obliterated part of Pakistan route climbed days earlier . Great Trango Nic Feteris, Geoff Successful . All four First Australian Tower (5753 m) Gabites (NZ), Vlad climbed to NE summit . ascent . Longest Karakoram, Moroz (Russia), Glenn Feteris and Singleman BASE jump from Pakistan Singleman descended by 1500 m a mountain . BASE jump . Ama Dablam Kobus Barnard Successful . All four Second ascent of (6854 m) SE (Canada), Matt reached summit . route . Ridge/SW Face, Godbold, Richard Nepal Howes, Ray Vran Cholatse (6440 Derek Chinn (NZ), Successful . Darragh First Australian m) W Face, Nepal Adam Darragh, Cam soloed the climb in four ascent . First solo Falkner (NZ), Marty days after other three ascent . Hunter (NZ) had completed alpine- style ascent . Ramdung Go Tony Brennan, Derek Successful . Cannon, First Australian (5930 m) N Face, Cannon, Peter Cullen, Cullen, Freeman, ascent . AAA Nepal Rhonda Freeman, Joe Kaplun, Kenny, Laursen, expedition . Kaplun, Frank Kenny, Mayfield, Proctor, Bob Kenyon, Joanne Stevens and van Beek Kenyon, Brian Laursen, reached summit . Chris Mayfield, Paul Morton, Bill Proctor, Gordon Stevens, Luke van Beek 1993 Makalu (8481 m) Warwick Baird, Ian Unsuccessful . High Attempted two W Ridge, Nepal Collins, Michael point of 7200 m technically difficult Groom, Wil King, reached . Stopped routes . Jonathan Leicester, by severe monsoon Warwick Paten, Mark conditions . Squires, Duncan Thomas Dhaulagiri Adam Darragh, Unsuccessful . High Second Australian (8167 m) Matt Godbold, Dave point of 7400 m attempt on NE Spur, Nepal Macleod (NZ), Mick reached . Stopped by Dhaulagiri . Neither McCourt, Phil Pitham, illness and high winds . successful . Stephen Simpson, One Camp IV tent James Strohfeldt, blown off the mountain. Pat Waddingham, Mark Watson (UK), Mark Whetu (NZ) and Zac Zaharias, leader of Army Alpine Association expedition

546 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments K2 (8611 m) Michael Whitehead, Unsuccessful . High Abruzzi Ridge, member of point of 7400 m Karakoram, international expedition reached . Stopped by Pakistan poor weather . Mt Everest Trajce Aleksow, Successful . Groom and Climb on 40th (8850 m) Lobsang Tshering Bhutia reached summit . anniversary of first SE Ridge, Nepal Bhutia (Nepal), Michael Bhutia died in fall from Everest ascent . Tashi Groom, David Hume, 8500 m during descent . Tenzing, grandson of Andrew Lock, Tashi , who Tenzing, Dimitar made first ascent Todorovski of Mt Everest with . Mt Everest Brigitte Muir, Jon Muirs reached 7600 m . (8850 m) Muir, members of Stopped by cold N Ridge, Tibet international expedition and high winds . Four members had earlier reached summit . North Annapurna Members of Sutherland Successful . Ascents of First Australian region, Trekking Bushwalking Club, Pisang Peak (6091 m), ascents of Chulu peaks, Nepal Sydney Chulu East (6200 m), East, Chulu Far East Chulu Far East (6059 m) and Thorungtse . and Thorungtse (6484 m). Shivling (6543 m) John Dunlop, James Unsuccessful . Stopped Garhwal, India Keily by early winter storm . Cholatse Armando Corvini, John Unsuccessful . Stopped Earlier attempt on (6440 m) Lamb, David Smith at 6000 m by lack of W Face stopped NW Ridge, Nepal fuel and food . by dangerous conditions . Hushe region, Erik Oostra, Rolf Successful . Sandifort Attempt on Karakoram, Oostra, Jeff Sandifort and Rolf Oostra climbed Gondogoro Peak Pakistan an unnamed 6300 m defeated by poor peak adjacent to snow conditions . Gondogoro Peak . K2 (8611 m) Andrew Lock, member Successful . Lock and Second Australian Abruzzi Ridge, of German expedition three German climbers ascent of K2; first of Karakoram, reached summit . Abruzzi Ridge . Pakistan 1994 Mt Everest Mike Rheinberger, Successful . Rheinberger Rheinberger died of (8850 m) member of US reached summit . First cerebral oedema on N Ridge, Tibet expedition Australian ascent of descent after forced N Ridge . bivouac 200 m below summit . New Zealander Mark Whetu made superhuman effort to save Rheinberger; suffered severe frostbite .

547 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Shisha Pangma Paul O’Byrne, member Successful . O’Byrne (Central Summit) of Canadian expedition reached summit . (8026 m) N Ridge, Tibet Shisha Pangma Paul Carr, Greg Successful . Carr, (Central Summit) Lindsell, Brigitte Lindsell and Muir (8026 m) Muir, members of reached summit . N Ridge, Tibet commercial expedition Cho Oyu Mike Brennan, Brigitte Unsuccessful . Turned Alpine-style attempt. (8201 m) Muir, Bill Pierson, Babu back at 6800 m by early NW Face, Tibet Chire Sherpa (Nepal), monsoon . Jon Tinker (UK) K2 (8611 m) , Successful . Groom Previous attempt by Abruzzi Ridge, member of US reached summit by S Face failed 30 m Karakoram, expedition Abruzzi Ridge with from summit . First Pakistan Finnish partner . Australian to climb world’s three highest mountains . Broad Peak Andrew Lock, member Lock reached 8030 m Lock reached (8047 m) W Face, of Swedish expedition (halfway between the 6500 m on an earlier Karakoram, fore-summit and true attempt on a new Pakistan summit) but retreated route on S Ridge . in the face of a severe storm . Carne Peak Tim Harley, Nigel Successful . New, technical rock (4500 m) Murphy route . Karakram, Pakistan Chongtar Colin Monteath, Greg Successful . Monteath, First ascent of major (7370 m) Mortimer, Lucas Trihey, Mortimer and Trihey unclimbed peak by W Ridge, Sue Werner reached summit . an Australian team . Kashgar, China Indradhanush Sarah Boyal, Gavin Successful . Serle and First, second and Parbat (6739 m), Dunmall, Grant Else, Tempest summited by third ascents of W Face/W Ridge, Andrew McNeill, W Face direct; Dunmall mountain previously Garhwal, India Darren Miller, Jamie and Miller by W Face known only as Serle, Glenn Tempest, LHS . Else’s ascent was Chandra Parbat Peter Williams by W Ridge (solo). South . Kulu/ David Burnett, Steve Successful . Carter, Possible first ascent region, Trekking Carter, Nick Gust, Schaap and Wilson of peaks, India David Kjar, Rohan ascended Shingo La Peak . Attempt on Schaap, David Wilson Peak (6025 m). Hunumann Tibba (6040 m) defeated by poor weather . Bhagirathi III Jonathan Chapman, Successful . Both Two nights spent (6454 m) Vera Wong climbers reached on face; bivvy on SW Pillar, summit by Scottish summit . Garhwal, India Route .

548 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Kwangde Ri Gareth Brown, Summit reached by AAA expedition . First (6187 m) David Chauval, Matt Chauval, Godbold and Australian ascent . S Ridge, Nepal Godbold, Paul Morton, Rogerson . Matt Rogerson and Matt Walton Pumori (7161 m) John Barnes (NZ), Barnes and Findlay S Ridge, Nepal Grant Dixon, Rolan reached summit on Eberhard, Stuart 22 October . Dixon, Findlay (UK), Hamish Eberhard and Stevens Morton (UK) and Wade reached 6700 m . Stevens Ama Dablam Andrew Burns, Successful . McAuley, First Australian (6854 m) S Ridge Armando Corvini Willard and Wong ascent of this route . and SW Ridge, (leader), Andrew reached summit on Corvini lost all fingers Nepal McAuley, David Smith 8 November . Burns, and some toes to (UK), Rod Willard (USA) Corvini and Smith frostbite . Three and Vera Wong reached summit two others with frostbite . days later . Kusum Kanguru Alan Adams and David Climbed a direct line (6369 m) Gardner from the Lungsamba SE Face, Nepal Glacier . Reached summit ridge just east of summit . 1995 Makalu (8463 m) Mark Auricht, Duncan Auricht and Hume First Australian NW Ridge Chessell, David Hume, reached summit on ascent . Auricht (French), Nepal Paul Rickards, Matt 8 May . Hume died descended alone in Rolfe and David Tingay during the descent the dark . from a fall 250 m below summit . Mt Everest II, Reached summit on Second Australian (8850 m) member of US 14 May . ascent of N Ridge . N Ridge, Tibet expedition Grandson of George Mallory participated . Mt Everest Greg Child on Russell Child reached summit . Tom Whittaker (USA) (8850 m) Brice (NZ) Himalayan attempted to make N Ridge, Tibet Experience expedition first disabled ascent of Everest . He reached 8300 m . Mt Everest (8850 James Allen, Kelly Allen reached summit Guided ascent m) N Ridge, Tibet Armitage, Mick on 27 May . Brigitte Muir by Allen (22), Chapman (UK), Brigitte reached 8500 m but who became the Muir, Jon Muir and head-torch failure forced youngest Australian other members of OTT an all-night open bivvy to climb Everest . Jon commercial expedition at 8450 m . Muir’s fifth expedition led by Jon Tinker (UK) to Mt Everest . Muirs’ attempt unguided . Cho Oyu Paul Walters Reached summit on (8201 m) 29 May . NW Face, Tibet Lhotse (8516 m) Mike Groom and Groom and Gustafsson First Australian W Face, Nepal reached summit . ascent . (Finland)

549 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Shisha Pangma Mike Groom Turned back at 7600 m (Central Summit) due to slab avalanches . (8026 m) N Ridge, Tibet Tirich Semi-commercial Dixon and Hamilton First Australian (7707 m) N Face, expedition led by David reached summit on ascent . , Hamilton (UK) and 17 July . Pakistan consisting of Grant Dixon, Rob Levy, four Britons and one Canadian Nanda Devi East David Chauval, Jim Truscott and White First Australian (7437 m) India Truscott, Chris White reached summit . US ascent of Nanda and 80 members of climber fell to his death Devi East and eighth international expedition during descent . overall ascent . consisting of Indian, Nepalese, Australian, British and US Army climbers Bublimotin Damien Gildea and Reached 4700 m . (6000 m) Mark Nayar Pakistan Kusum Kanguru Chris Matthews and High point of 5600 m Alpine-style attempt. (6369 m) Matt Rogerson reached . Climb AAA expedition . N Buttress, Nepal abandoned due to poor snow conditions . Sandy Allan (UK), Rick Allen, Kurtyka and Lock The furthest along (8126 m) Mazeno Allen (UK), Voytek made it about halfway the long ridge Ridge, Pakistan Kurtyka (), along the ridge before any attempt has Andrew Lock and turning around due to reached . Doug Scott (UK) lack of food and time . Khurdopin Members of the Edith Three members Dangerous (6465 m) Cowan Mountaineering reached 5650 m . conditions and Pakistan Club severely corniced ridge forced retreat . Tenan Tower Kynan Bazley (NZ) and Summit of Tenan Tower First ascent of Tenan (5300 m) Hushoh Vera Wong reached by way of Tower . Puk (5400 m) 550 m, 11-pitch rock Nangmar Couloir, route . New route of Pakistan Hushoh Puk by way of couloir but summit not reached . Cho Oyu Leonard Harvey and Reached summit on Second Australian (8201 m) Roman Rosenbaum 26 September . ascent . NW Face, Tibet 1996 Pyramid Peak Jon Chapman, Chapman and Dunmall Only one previous (Pathibhara) Gavin Dunmall, Tim reached 6350 m . Climb ascent of mountain, (7125 m) W (S) Evans, Morvan Grant, abandoned due to from Sikkim side . In Ridge, Nepal Darren Miller (leader), strong winds and poor 2007, a Slovenian James Serle, Nicola weather . team ascended the Sunderland and Scott Nepalese side . Welch

550 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Mt Everest Mike Groom, John Groom reached summit . The 1996 tragedy is (8850 m) Taske and members of His second ascent of documented in Jon S Col, Nepal Mt Everest . Krakauer’s book Into commercial expedition Thin Air . Groom was led by (NZ) the only guide to survive the tragedy . Mt Everest Brigitte Muir on Henry Muir reached S Col . Muir assisted Beck (8850 m) Todd (UK) Himalayan Spent two nights during Weathers off S Col. S Col, Nepal Guides commercial storm that caught out expedition (non-guided Rob Hall’s expedition . attempt) Attempt abandoned due to unstable weather . Nanga Parbat Joan Garcia (Portugal) Garcia and Lock abandoned (8126 m) Diamir and Andrew Lock on reached 7500 m . mountain and took Face, Pakistan international expedition Stopped by bad most of the gear including six Poles and conditions . while Lock was still one Austrian on the mountain . Thalay Sagar Andrew Lindblade and Lindblade and Whimp Attempt of direct (6904 m) N Face, Athol Whimp (NZ) reached 6350 m . Climb route on 2000 m India abandoned due to cold, N Face . snow and avalanche . Karyolung Tony Parr (leader), Attempt abandoned (6511 m) Katherine Brandis, at 5700 m due to bad NNW Ridge, Darren Gardner, Glenn weather . Nepal Horrocks, Myfawny Lawrence, Guido Simionato 1997 Mt Everest Tashi Tenzing on Reached summit on 23 First grandson of any (8850 m) commercial expedition May . summiteers . Guided S Col, Nepal ascent . Mt Everest Brigitte Muir on Mal Muir reached summit First Australian (8850 m) Duff (UK) non-guided on 27 May with Dorje female (unguided) S Col, Nepal commercial expedition Sherpa and Kipa- ascent . First Sherpa during perfect Australian husband- weather using oxygen . and-wife summiteers (Jon Muir, 28 May 1988). Dhaulagiri Nevin Agnew, Allen Successful . Lock, First Australian (8167 m) Caldwell, Bob Killip, Rogerson and Zaharias ascent of Dhaulagiri . NE Spur, Nepal Brian Laursen, reached summit in the Dual AAA expedition Andrew Lock, dark at 9 .30 pm on to Dhaulagiri and Andrew Molyneaux, 25 May . Tukuche . Matt Rogerson, Jon Sparks, Alex van Roy, Matt Walton and Zac Zaharias (leader)

551 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Tukuche (6940 m) Lindsay Adams, Martin South summit AAA expedition . First and Tukuche Banfield, Robb Clifton, reached on 3 May Australian expedition South (6690 m) Mike Cook, David by Hackett and van to Tukuche and first S Ridge, Nepal Donaldson, Jamie Roy and on 4 May by Australian ascent of Hackett, Andrea Jopp- Adams, Clifton, Cook, S Peak . McKay, David McKay, Donaldson, Jopp- David Smith and Alex McKay and McKay . van Roy (leader) Unable to continue to main summit due to difficult conditions. Cho Oyu Geoff Robb on OTT Unsuccessful . Robb Billy Pearson (USA) (8201 m) expedition reached 7000 m but and George Kurtov NW Face, Tibet abandoned climb due (Russia) from team to chest cold . climbed new route on N Ridge . Broad Peak Rick Allen (UK) and Allen and Lock reached Second Australian (8047 m) S Ridge Andrew Lock 7100 m attempting ascent of Broad and W Face, new route on S Ridge, Peak. Lock was first Pakistan climbing higher than any Australian to climb previous attempts . Lock two 8000 m peaks later soloed W Face . in one year . Thalay Sagar Andrew Lindblade and Lindblade and Whimp First ascent of (6904 m) N Face, Athol Whimp (NZ) reached summit . N Face direct and India first Australian ascent of this peak . This route previously defeated 10 other expeditions . Shivling (6543 m) John Barnes (NZ), Route out of condition, W Ridge, Stuart Findlay (UK), climb abandoned . Gangotri, India Chris Grasswick (Canada) and Wade Stevens Cho Oyu Alan Silva, member Reached summit . (8201 m) Tibet of international commercial expedition Makalu II , Matt Gregory Fear, Gregory and First Australian (7680 m) NW and John Maraz Maraz reached summit . ascent . Ridge, Nepal 1998 Shisha Pangma Brian Agnew, Simon Successful . De Boer, Pliner and Robb (Central Summit) Blackmore (UK), Ansja Pliner, Robb and Whetu guided ascent . Pliner (8026 m) de Boer (NZ), Peter reached Central Summit suffered frostbite to N Ridge, Tibet Hunt, Ralph Pliner, on 20 May . his fingers. Geoff Robb and Zac Zaharias on Mountain Works commercial expedition led by Mark Whetu Mt Everest Alan Silva, member Reached summit on (8850 m) of international 26 May after climbing S Col, Nepal commercial expedition alone from S Col .

552 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Gasherbrum II Paul Walters and Ray Reached summit on Second Australian (8035 m) Brown (UK) 9 July . ascent of SE Ridge, Gasherbrum II . Pakistan Cho Oyu Sue Fear and Nima Fear and Nima Dorje First Australian (8201 m) Dorje Tamang (Nepal) reached summit on female ascent NW Face, Tibet 24 September . of Cho Oyu and second Australian woman to summit an 8000 m peak . Pumori (7161 m) Kynan Bazley (NZ), Successful . Bazley, Kelsall and Jones SW Ridge, Nepal Scott Ferris, Chris Ferris and Suisted both got very sick . Grasswick (Canada), reached summit on Matthew Jones, John 7 October; Grasswick Kelsall, Theo Kossart and Kossart reached (leader) and Philip summit on 9 October . Suisted (NZ) Nanga Parbat Alan Hinks (UK) and Lock successful . First Australian (8126 m) Andrew Lock Bivvied on the descent, ascent . Kinshofer Rute, about 7500 m, while his Pakistan companions left him . Changi Tower Ned Norton (NZ), Abby Watkins, Wong and First ascent of (5820 m) and Watkins, Paul Weber Woolford reached E Summit of Marpo Marpo Brakk (NZ), Vera Wong and summit of Marpo Brakk Brakk . First ascent (5400 m) Hushe Nicola Woolford (NZ) by way of 300 m aid of Changi Tower Valley, Pakistan line (grade-20 crux) Main Peak . and Changi Tower Main Peak . N Summit of Changi Tower climbed by Norton and Weber . Ama Dablam Mark Auricht, Duncan Auricht and Chessell Second Australian (6854 m) SW Chessell, Lorne reached summit on winter ascent . Ridge, Nepal McClurg, Adele 5 December with Pennington (UK) and Pennington and Wilshire David Wilshire on summit the next day . 1999 Makalu (8463 m) Australian–US Bridges and Groom Second Australian French Spur, expedition with David reached summit on ascent of Makalu . Nepal Bridges (USA), Mike 16 May . Groom climbs his Groom and Lincoln sixth 8000-er and Hall has now reached the summit of the six highest mountains in the world . Makalu (8463 m) International Makalu Harrison and Robertson Third Australian French Spur, expedition members reached summit at ascent of Makalu . Nepal included Ginette 6 pm on 23 May . Muir Harrison (UK), Brigitte reached 7600 m; Muir, Gary Pfisterer attempt abandoned (USA; leader), Billy after death of a Pierson (USA), Hamish close friend, Michael Robertson and seven Joergensen (Denmark), other climbers from another expedition .

553 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Shisha Pangma Brian Agnew (leader), Successful . Agnew, World record of (Central Summit) Tanya Bylart, Allen Bylart, Caldwell, Cook, 17 climbers from (8026 m) Caldwell, Mike Cook, Donaldson, Graham, one expedition on N Ridge, Tibet David Donaldson, Hackett, Johnson, an 8000 m summit . Steve Graham, Jamie Killip, Lambert, Laursen, A US and an Italian Hackett, Carl Johnson, McMaster, Peacock, climber rescued Bob Killip, Shane Reeve, Robathan, by the team in two Lacey, Peter Lambert, Simpson and Zaharias separate incidents . Brian Laursen, Adrian reached summit over Bylart was third McCallum, Dean four days from 25 to Australian woman to McMaster, Andrew 28 May . summit an 8000 m Peacock, Brad Reeve, peak . Robathan Tim Robathan, Steve (21) was youngest Simpson, Stuart Australian to summit Sugden and Zac an 8000 m peak . Zaharias Mt Everest Geoff Robb on Successful . Reached (8850 m) Himalayan Experience summit on 27 May . N Ridge, Nepal commercial expedition led by Russell Brice (NZ) with five clients and five Sherpas Gasherbrum I Abele Blanc (), Alpine-style ascent First Australian (8068 m) Pepe Garces (Spain), by Lock on G2 with ascent of Japanese Christian Kunter (Italy), Garces, a return trip Gasherbrum I . Lock Couloir and Andrew Lock and of three days after was first Australian Gasherbrum II Waldemar Niklevic acclimatising and to climb two 8000 m (8035 m) (Brazil) working on G1 . Lock peaks in one SE Ridge, then reached summit season . Pakistan of G1 . Dhaulagiri Paul Walters Reached summit . Second Australian (8167 m) ascent . NE Spur, Nepal Kedarnath Glen Sharrock (leader) Reached 6800 m . Peak (6940 m) Attempt abandoned Gangotri, India due to weather . Kusum Kanguru Brede Arkless (NZ), Chessell and Ritchie Bivvied on summit (6369 m) N Face, and completed route to ridge . Complete Nepal David Ritchie (UK) summit ridge between alpine-style ascent W and high summits . of face . Island Peak Duncan Chessell Chessell reached Solo ascent . (6189 m) summit on a possible (Imja Tse) new route . S Ridge, Nepal Ama Dablam Duncan Chessell Chessell and four out Chessell’s second (6854 m) guiding on US of five clients reached ascent of Ama SW Ridge, Nepal commercial expedition summit . Dablam and third Australian winter ascent .

554 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Kedarnath Lester Joyce, Chris Attempts on 16 Proposed climb on Peak (6940 m) McElvey, Chris and 17 September Shivling abandoned Gangotri, India McGrath, Glen abandoned due to at advanced Sharrock (leader), Chris weather and deep base camp on Thompson, Steve snow . McElvey 23 September due Turner and McGrath to unstable snow . reached summit on 18 September . 2000 Cho Oyu Allen Caldwell, Matt Successful . Grose AAA expedition . (8201 m) Godbold, Roger Grose and Laursen reached NW Face, Tibet (leader), Bob Killip, summit on 16 May, Brian Laursen, Mick Shepley on 17 May . All McCourt, Adam Scott, other members reached Matt Shepley, Stuart 7500 m . Sugden and Matt Walton Cho Oyu Duncan Chessell Chessell and Hagge Hagge guided (8201 m) guiding on US reached summit with ascent . NW Face, Tibet commercial expedition two Sherpas . with Malte Hagge and others Mt Everest Andrew Lock, leader Lock reached south First successful (8850 m) of Jagged Globe summit on 16 May and Australian leader S Ridge, Nepal commercial expedition reached summit on of a commercial 24 May with two other expedition to members . Everest . His seventh 8000 m peak . Mt Everest Roman Rosenbaum Reached summit on Austrian-born (8850 m) on 26-member Hosei 17 May using oxygen . Rosenbaum was on N Ridge, Tibet University 120th a five-year exchange anniversary expedition at Hosei University led by Toshio (). Nakamura (Japan) Jannu (7710 m) Andrew Lindblade and Lindblade and Whimp Lightweight ascent N Face, Nepal Athol Whimp (NZ) reached summit . of N Face–Wall of Shadows . Shisha Pangma Colin Chaplin, Sue Chaplin and Fear Fear dragged (Central Summit) Fear, Ian Hibbert and abandoned climb at Nawang down from (8026 m) Nawang Jimba Sherpa 7400 m after Nawang Camp III to Camp I, N Ridge, Tibet suffered pulmonary where he recovered . oedema . Cornice (5882 m) David Duke on Duke and Toby Johnson First Australian and Workmans 12-person New (NZ) reached summit ascents. Single-day Peak (5886 m) Zealand Alpine Club of both peaks in early ascents with up to Snow Lake, expedition led by Judy August . 1200 m of steep, Pakistan Reid (NZ) technical climbing . Ama Dablam Keith Sloane Successful . Sloane did not (6854 m) on commercial summit . Guided SW Ridge, Nepal expedition led by Dave climb . Hiddleston (NZ)

555 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments 2001 Mt Everest Mark Auricht, Tshering Auricht and Chessell First Australian (8850 m) N Ridge Pande Bhote Sherpa, reached summit of ascent of trekking and Lhakpa Ri Duncan Chessell, Lhakpa Ri in late April . peak near Mt (7045 m) East David Tingay (base Chessell and Tshering Everest Advanced Rongbuk Glacier, camp doctor) Sherpa reached summit Base Camp . Auricht Tibet of Mt Everest on 23 May died at Camp III using oxygen . Auricht (7900 m) on Mt reached above Third Everest on 24 May . Step before turning back . Mt Everest Tanya Bylart, Laursen reached Cameraman Peter (8850 m) Mike Cook, David summit on 25 May Szypula killed by ice N Ridge, Tibet Donaldson, Roger using oxygen, with avalanche during Grose, Jamie Hackett, Sherpas Chewang acclimatisation trek Carl Johnson, Bob and Nima . Cook and in the Annapurna Killip, Peter Lambert, Zaharias reached 8700 Sanctuary on 24 Brian Laursen, Adrian m, above the Third March along with McCallum, Tim Step . Ten climbers family members Robathan, Chewang reached 8500 m or Michelle and Sherpa, Nima Nuru higher . Kathleen (KC) Sherpa, Jungbu Hackett . Sherpa (sirdar), Pasang Sherpa, Peter Szypula, Mark Whetu (NZ), Zac Zaharias Mt Everest Scott Ferris, Paul Karis Ferris reached high Karis returned early (8850 m) (South Africa), Theo point of 7900 m . due to pneumonia . N Ridge, Tibet Kossart (leader) Mt Everest John Dunlop on UK Reached 6800 m . Left after contracting (8850 m) commercial expedition a chest infection . N Ridge, Tibet Guided climb . Spantik (7027 m) Mike Dunjey, Dave High point of 6400 m Climb abandoned SE Ridge, Hancock (guide), Kyle reached in August . due to deep snow Pakistan Richardson, Mark and dangerous Sheen on Australian conditions . Guided commercial expedition climb . sharing British permit Annapurna IV Simon Fitzclarence, High point of Camp I hit by (7525 m) Jenni Fraser, Andrew 7000 m reached on avalanche with loss NW Ridge, Nepal Mitchell, Martin 22 September by of gear . Expedition Pocock, Bridget Ridley and Mitchell . abandoned due to Quince, David Ridley, strong winds and Ian Rutherford plus threatening storms . four climbing Sherpas Guided climb . on commercial expedition led by Gary Hayes Cho Oyu John Taske and Unsuccessful . High Guided climb . (8201 m) Dietmar Voss on point of 7700 m NW Face, Tibet commercial expedition reached on 1 October . led by Dean Staples (NZ)

556 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Passu Sar Colin Chaplin, Damien Climbed abandoned (7492 m) Gildea (leader), Ian just above 4700 m NE Face to East Hibbert, Paul Hudson due to dangerous and Ridge, Batura and Ken Hutt difficult icefall. , Hunza, Pakistan Ama Dablam Duncan Chessell Summit reached late Guided climb . (6854 m) SW (guide) and Peter October . Ridge, Nepal Weeks on commercial expedition Pumori (7161 m) Steve Janssen on five- High point of 6500 m . SE Ridge, Nepal member international expedition 2002 Annapurna IV Robert Fox, Anthony High point of 5470 m Base camp buried (7525 m) NW Jamison, Stephen reached on 30 March on 29 April . Ridge, Nepal Patrikios, Matthew by Rolfe . Expedition Rolfe and Allan Wright abandoned on 4 May due to constant avalanche danger . (8163 m) Tracje Aleksov (Alex), Lock reached summit First Australian NE Face, Nepal Andrew Lock on 21 April with ascent . Norwegians Jan and Sven Gangdal . Manaslu (8163 m) Brian Laursen, George Laursen, Mortimer, Second Australian NE Face, Nepal Lloyd, Greg Mortimer Peacock, Robb and ascent . Laursen’s (leader), Andrew Nawang Sherpa fourth 8000 m peak . Peacock, Geoff Robb, reached summit on Nawang Sherpa, Nima 13 May . Sherpa Shisha Pangma Sue Fear and Nima Fear reached Central First attempt (Central Summit) Tamang sharing permit Summit on 15 May abandoned at (8026 m) with Belgian expedition with Pasang Sherpa 7300 m on 7 May . N Ridge, Tibet and Belgian Johan Nima Tamang de Bruyn . became sick on 12 May . Lhotse (8516 m) Andrew Lock Lock reached summit Second Australian W Face, Nepal on 16 May climbing ascent and ninth solo by way of direct 8000 m peak for West Face route from Lock . 7100 m . Mt Everest Tashi Tenzing on Tenzing reached summit Tenzing’s second (8850 m) Swiss Everest 50th on 16 May using ascent of Mt Everest . SE Ridge, Nepal Anniversary Expedition oxygen along with Yves Yves Lambert is the led by Stephane Lambert (Switzerland) son of Raymond Schaffter and . Lambert . Mt Everest Robert Geir on Reached summit on (8850 m) international 16 May guided by Scott SE Ridge, Nepal commercial expedition Woolums using oxygen . led by Guillermo Benegas

557 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Mt Everest Robert Meluish Successful . Meluish and Guided climb . (8850 m) and John Taske on Taske reached Camp II . SE Ridge, Nepal commercial expedition led by Bill Crouse (USA) Kangchenjunga Christine Boskov (USA) High point of 7700 m Climb abandoned (8586 m) and Andrew Lock reached . due to poor SW Face, Nepal conditions . Kedar Dome Guides Lindsay Abbots Unsuccessful . High Christian Marxt (6831 m) (UK), Peter Allen, Mick point of 6100 m () skied NW Face, Chapman (UK; leader), reached in June . down from 6000 m . Gangotri, India Leonie Berger, Rob Guided climb . Sellers, Gregg Wells plus five others on commercial expedition Ama Dablam Jay Reilly on Reached summit Guided climb . (6854 m) 30-member 22 October . SW Ridge, Nepal international commercial expedition led by Dan Mazur (USA) 2003 Pumori (7161 m) Jay Reilly on Reached summit Guided climb . SE Face, international 8 April . E Ridge, Nepal commercial expedition led by Dan Mazur (USA) Cho Oyu Jo Gambi (UK) Husband and wife team Guided climb . (8201 m) and Robert Gambi of Robert and Jo Gambi NW Face, Tibet on international reached summit on commercial expedition 27 September . led by Russell Brice (NZ) Annapurna IV Kate Carlin, Matt Matt Carlin and Ridley Avalanche took (7525 m) Carlin, Andrew reached high point of out Camp II on NW Ridge, Nepal Reilly, David Ridley 6380 m on 3 October; 21 September . and Gareth Turner Reilly also reached high Expedition on international point, on 4 October . abandoned due commercial expedition to impassable led by Gary Hayes 10 m-wide crevasse. Guided climb . Shisha Pangma Nicola Tsang Reached summit on Guided climb . (Central Summit) 6 October . (8026 m) N Ridge, Tibet Ama Dablam David Chiew (leader), Summit reached by Guided climb . (6854 m) Annabelle Cochrane Chiew, Cochrane and SW Ridge, Nepal (NZ) and Brett Moule Moule on 1 November . with three Sherpas on Australian commercial expedition

558 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Ama Dablam Chris Kinney, Tony Summit reached by Camille Kinney (6854 m) Kinney and Camille father, son and daughter youngest woman SW Ridge, Nepal Kinney on 29-member team on 23 October . to summit Ama international Dablam . Guided commercial expedition climb . led by Dan Mazur (USA); Jay Reilly deputy leader Cho Oyu Duncan Chessell Chessell, Jackson, Oxygen used for the (8201 m) (guide), Robert Jansen, Svasadotiar ascent of Cho Oyu . NW Face and Jackson, Steve and Weeks summit Guided climbs . Labchi Kang Jansen, Anna Labchi Kang in late (7367 m) Tibet Svasadotiar (), April . Chessell and Peter Weeks, Sherpas Jackson summit Cho Tshering Pande Bhote Oyu on 11 May . and Jamyang Bhote on commercial expedition Cho Oyu Geoff Robb on Robb reached summit Robb’s fourth (8201 m) commercial expedition on 11 May with Torre 8000 m peak . NW Face, Tibet with nine other clients Sunde-Rasmussen Guided climb . and seven Sherpas led (Norway) and two by Terry Moore (UK) Sherpas . Ama Dablam Hayen Brotchie, Jon Summit reached by Sydney (6854 m) SW Castley, Neil Lefevre, Castley and Tang on Rockclimbing Club Ridge, Nepal Garth Rickert, Alan 11 May, Brotchie and expedition . Jungbu Silva (leader), Jangbu Silva 12 May, Lefevre Sherpa summited Sherpa, Grace Tang and Rickert 13 May and three times, on 10, and Penny Troy Castley and Troy on 11 and 18 May . 18 May . Mt Everest Sue Fear on Russell Reached summit on Self-guided ascent. (8850 m) Brice (NZ) commercial 31 May . N Ridge, Tibet expedition Mt Everest Peter Madew on UK Madew reached Madew suffered (8850 m) commercial expedition 8500 m . Attempt third-degree frostbite N Ridge, Tibet abandoned to assist on both hands . Conan Harrod (UK) after Guided climb . a US climber fell on him and broke his leg . Mt Everest Nick Dyer on Unsuccessful . High Guided climb . (8850 m) commercial expedition point of south summit SE Ridge, Nepal led by Bill Crouse (8750 m) reached (USA) by the expedition on 23 May . Cho Oyu Blair Falahey and two Falahey reached Falahey suffered (8201 m) Spanish climbers on 7700 m . Spanish third-degree frostbite NW Face, Tibet self-guided expedition climbers abandoned to all fingers on the expedition . 13 May . Cho Oyu Jack Carmody, Paul High point and top Paul Carr died (8201 m) Carr, Nick Farr, Mick camp at 7400 m of a blocked NW Face, Tibet Harvey with Sherpas reached by Carr, Farr, cardiovascular artery Tika and Yodha Tika and Yodha . in tent at top camp . on Victorian Police expedition

559 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Kangchenjunga , Paul Unsuccessful . (8586 m) Nepal Walters and Roland Hunter (UK) Ama Dablam Anthony Baldry on Unsuccessful . Guided climb . (6854 m) commercial expedition SW Ridge, Nepal led by Dean Staples (NZ) Gasherbrum IV Andrew Lindblade and Unsuccessful . Acclimatisation climb (7925 m) W Face, Athol Whimp (NZ) to 7000 m on NW Pakistan Ridge . Gasherbrum Darren Scott on Scott reached high Guided climb . II (8035 m) commercial expedition point of 7000 m on SE Ridge, led by Mike Roberts 22 July . Pakistan (NZ) Cho Oyu Anthony Baldry, Ed Baldry, Buck and Oxygen used during (8201 m) Bradley, Piers Buck, Gomes reached summit summit climb . NW Face, Tibet Lewis Gomes on on 27 September Guided climb . commercial expedition along with eight other led by Mike Roberts members . (NZ) Cho Oyu Mick Parker Parker reached summit (8201 m) on 5 October, climbing NW Face, Tibet alone from Camp II . Shisha Pangma Andrew Lock (solo) Reached summit on Main summit not (Central Summit) except with Italians 6 October . attempted due to (8026 m) and poor conditions . N Ridge, Tibet Mario on summit day Lock’s tenth 8000 m only peak . Peak 6417 Anna Brooks, Ken Successful . Summit (6417 m) McConnell, Dendi reached on 21 October . Damodar Himal, Sherpa and Ongdi Nepal Sherpa 2004 Pumori (7161 m) Dan Marino on Reilly and Marino Reilly’s second SE Face, international reached the summit ascent of Pumori . E Ridge, Nepal commercial expedition on 23 March . Guided climb . led by Dan Mazur (USA) with Jay Reilly as deputy leader Baruntse George Lloyd on five- Lloyd reached the Second Australian (7168 m) member international expedition high attempt on SE Ridge, Nepal commercial expedition point of 6800 m . Baruntse . Guided led by Neville Taylor Expedition frustrated by climb . (UK) complicated crevasse system breaking the SE Ridge . Cho Oyu Catherine Carlyle Reached summit on Carlyle used (8201 m) on international 14 May . supplementary NW Face, Tibet commercial expedition oxygen from Camp led by Jamie III . Guided climb . McGuinness (NZ)

560 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Mt Everest Andrew Lock on Lock reached summit Lock’s second (8850 m) Channel on 16 May . ascent of Mt Everest . SE Ridge, Nepal filming expedition led by Ben Webster (Canada) with Shaunna Bourke (Canada) and Hector Ponce de Leon (Mexico) Mt Everest Robert Gambi, Gambi and Marquis Hockey, a disabled (8850 m) Andrew Marquis reached summit climber, lost his right N Ridge, Tibet and Paul Hockey on 24 May . Hockey arm to cancer as a on international reached 8600 m . child . Guided climb . commercial expedition led by Bill Crouse (USA) Mt Everest Anthony Baldry and Ed Baldry reached summit Guided climb . (8850 m) Bradley on international on 27 May . Bradley SE Ridge, Nepal commercial expedition reached the south led by Luis Benitez summit (8750 m). (USA) Makalu (8481 m) Mick Parker on Parker turned around at Expedition leader Nepal international expedition high camp . reached summit using oxygen . Gasherbrum II Ernestine Tjepkema Fear reached summit Fear’s fourth 8000 m (8035 m) and Steve Hay on 26 July . High point peak . First Australian SE Ridge, on international of 6000 m for Tjepkema female ascent . Pakistan commercial expedition and Hay . led by Sue Fear Broad Peak Malte Hagge Hagge reached 7700 m Hagge returned to (8047 m) W Face, on international on 26 July . Broad Peak after Pakistan commercial expedition an unsuccessful led by Jamie attempt in 2003 . McGuinness (NZ) Guided climb . Broad Peak John Dunlop, Mick Parker and Walters Third Australian (8047 m) W Face, Parker and Paul reached summit on ascent of Broad Pakistan Walters on international 27 July . Peak. Walters’s fifth expedition led by 8000 m peak . Roland Hunter (UK) Spantik (7027 m) Rob Findlay, Dave Unsuccessful . Expedition SE Ridge, Jackson, Tony Expedition high point abandoned due to Pakistan Breen and Patrick of Camp II . steep and unstable Hollingworth snow . Guided climb . on 20-member international commercial expedition led by Gary Hayes Cho Oyu Michael Dunjey Reached advanced Dunjey left due (8201 m) on international base camp (5500 m). to illness . Guided NW Face, Tibet commercial expedition climb . led by Ron Holt (UK)

561 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Cho Oyu John Cook with two Reached 6400 m on Cook abandoned (8201 m) Sherpas 20 September . climb due to cerebral NW Face, Tibet oedema . Cho Oyu Bruce Gibbens Reached advanced Gibbens got (8201 m) base camp . chest infection NW Face, Tibet and left ABC on 22 September . Cho Oyu Andrew Lock Lock reached summit Lock’s eleventh (8201 m) on 25 September from 8000 m peak . Solo NW Face, Tibet Camp II . climb . Cho Oyu Nic Bendeli, Mick Zaharias reached (8201 m) Vander Vlist, George summit on 1 October NW Face, Tibet Lloyd, Chris Warner climbing solo from and Zac Zaharias Camp II . Warner reached 8100 m on 2 October . Shisha Colin Pacey on seven- Pacey reached Central Guided climb . Pangma(Central person international Summit on 8 October . Summit) (8026 m) commercial expedition N Ridge, Tibet led by David Hamilton (UK) Ama Dablam Adam Shepard, Shepard reached Guided climb . (6854 m) Anthony Truscott summit on 23, Reilly SW Ridge, Nepal on international on 24 and Truscott commercial expedition on 25 October . led by Dan Mazur (USA) with Jay Reilly as deputy leader Lobuje East Owen Davis, Anthony Davis, Smailes and Smailes killed on (6119 m) and Smailes and Whiteway Whiteway reached 30 October en route Pumori (7161 m) summit of Lobuje East to Pumori base Nepal on 28 October . camp . Expedition abandoned . Ama Dablam Jan Anderson, Gambi reached summit Guided climb . (6854 m) Robert Gambi and on 2 November . SW Ridge, Nepal Louis Koszteiny on international commercial expedition led by Luis Benitez (USA) Ama Dablam Daniel Bull and Bull and O’Mahoney Guided climb . (6854 m) O’Mahoney reached summit on SW Ridge, Nepal on international 4 November . commercial expedition led by Tarn Pilkington (NZ) Ama Dablam Tim Colquhoun Colquhoun reached Guided climbs . (6854 m) and Mic Rofe on a summit on SW Ridge, Nepal range of commercial 1 November and Rofe expeditions on 5 November .

562 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments 2005 Pumori (7161 m) Philip Ling and Kirk Unsuccessful . High Guided climb . SE Face, Morely on international point of 6150 m E Ridge, Nepal commercial expedition reached on 23 March . led by Dan Mazur (USA) with Jay Reilly as deputy leader Kula Kangri Damien Gildea, Steve Unsuccessful . Reached Continual poor (7554 m) Chaplin (UK), Lars 6200 m on Kula weather thwarted W Ridge and Svens (Sweden) and Kangri and 6300 m on progress . Jiexiang (6676 m) Laila Ojefelt (Sweden) Jiexiang . E Ridge, Tibet Cho Oyu Tashi Tensing guiding Camp I (6300 m) (8201 m) an international reached . NW Face, Tibet commercial expedition Mt Everest Mick Parker and one Unsuccessful, reached (8850 m) other climber 7700 m . N Ridge, Tibet Mt Everest Victorian Police team Farr, Linsdell and Taylor Guided climb . (8850 m) of Nick Farr, Greg reached the summit on SE Ridge, Nepal Linsdell and John 31 May . Taylor on commercial expedition led by (UK) Mt Everest Rex Pemberton Reached summit on Guided climb . (8850 m) on international 31 May . Pemberton (20) SE Ridge, Nepal commercial expedition youngest Australian led by Eric Simonsen to climb Mt Everest . (USA) Mt Everest Piers Buck and Buck and Gosens Gosens is a (8850 m) Gerrard Gosens climbed to Camp III . congenitally blind SE Ridge, Nepal on New Zealand Expedition abandoned climber . Buck left for commercial expedition on 29 May due to high Tibet on 25 May for led by Mike Roberts winds . attempt from north (NZ) side . Guided climb . Mt Everest Paul Hockey and Piers Hockey and Buck Hockey is the first (8850 m) Buck on international reached summit on 5 Australian disabled N Ridge, Tibet commercial expedition June . climber to climb led by Dean Staples Everest . Buck joined (NZ) and guide Duncan the expedition in late Chessell May . Guided climb . Annapurna I Andrew Lock, Brendan Lock reached high point First Australian (8091 m) North Cusick (USA) and of 6000 m . Expedition attempt on face (French Charlie Mace (USA). abandoned on 18 May Annapurna I . route), Nepal Lock also teamed up after avalanche hit the with Italians Christian group above Camp II, Kuntner, Abele Blanc injuring four Italians . and Silvio Mondinelli Kuntner died in Lock’s for summit push arms at Camp II .

563 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Cho Oyu Simon Andrade Andrade left on Guided climb . (8201 m) on New Zealand 14 September for NW Face, Tibet commercial expedition medical reasons . led by Mike Roberts (NZ) Lhotse(8516) Blair Falahey Unsuccessful . Reached W Face, Nepal 7800 m . K2 (8611 m) Mick Parker and Banjo Unsuccessful . Reached Pakistan Bannon (Ireland) 8100 m but abandoned climb due to poor weather . Gasherbrum II Geoff Robb, Zac Zaharias reached Zaharias’s fifth (8035 m) Zaharias and Ali summit on 23 July in 8000 m peak . SE Ridge, (Pakistan) whiteout; Robb reached Pakistan 7800 m . Both climbed from Camp III at 7000 m . Cho Oyu Jen Peedom and Peedom reached Peedom used (8201 m) Christopher Hallam summit on 22 bottled oxygen from NW Face, Tibet on international September; Hallam Camp III . commercial expedition reached 7300 m . Guided climb . led by Russell Brice (NZ) Shisha Pangma Warwick Barnes Reached summit on Guided climb . (Central Summit) on a international 4 October with Pasang (8026 m) commercial expedition Gyelu Sherpa . N Ridge, Tibet led by Jamie McGuinness (NZ) Cho Oyu Andrew Lock guiding Lock reached summit Lock’s second (8201 m) NW Spaniard Inigo de of Cho Oyu on 25 ascent of Cho Oyu Face and Shisha Pineda September and Shisha and Shisha Pangma Pangma (Central Pangma Central on 8 Central . Summit) (8026m) October . N Ridge, Tibet Amin Brakk Chris Fitzgerald and Fitzgerald and Kukuthas New route, (4900 m) and Nathan Kukuthas reached summit of One Degree of Denbour Tower Denbour Tower on Separation (17, A5, (4900 m) Hushe 29 September . Climb 12 pitches). Valley, Pakistan took six days including descent . Ama Dablam Andrew McDonald Reilly reached summit Reilly’s third ascent (6854 m) on international on 20 October of Ama Dablam . SW Ridge, Nepal commercial expedition and McDonald on Guided climb . led by Dan Mazur 22 October . (USA) with Jay Reilly as deputy leader Ama Dablam David Ridley and Ridley and Fisher Guided climb . (6854 m) Daniel Fisher on reached summit on SW Ridge, Nepal commercial expedition 25 October .

564 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Ama Dablam Shaun McLauchlan Unsuccessful . Shaun Father and son (6854 m) and Brian McLauchlan McLauchlan suffered team . SW Ridge, Nepal frostbite on eight toes . Brian McLauchlan had altitude problems . Ama Dablam Anthony Geoghegan, Wills reached summit Guided climb . (6854 m) Brad Jackson on 29 October, Jackson SW Ridge, Nepal and Vanessa Wills on 4 November and on 13-member Geoghegan on 7 international November . commercial expedition led by Stuart Remensnyder (USA) Kyajo Ri (6186 m) Armando Corvini Unsuccessful . High Expedition SE Ridge, Nepal (leader), Fil Giles, point of Camp I abandoned due to Graham Franklin- (5400 m) reached. lack of time and Browne, Cheryl Woods poor weather . and Adam Liddyard 2006 Mt Everest Blair Falahey with two Reached summit on 18 Smallest Australian (8850 m) Sherpas May . expedition . N Ridge, Tibet Mt Everest Mike Dillon, Lincoln Hall reached summit 15-year-old (8850 m) Hall, Christopher Harris on 25 May . Christopher Christopher N Ridge, Tibet and Richard Harris Harris reached 7300 m . Harris attempted to become the youngest person to climb Everest . Hall ‘died’ and revived at 8700 m—rescued by large ground party . Manaslu (8163 m) Sue Fear and Bishnu Summit reached Fear’s fifth summit NE Face, Nepal Gurung 28 May . Died in over 8000 m . crevasse fall at 7600 m during descent . Kangchenjunga Lock reached summit (8586 m) SW (Germany), Gerlinde on 14 May . Face Nepal Kaltenbrunner (Austria), Veikka Gustafsson (Finland), Hirotaka Takeuchi (Japan), Joao Garcia (Portugal) and Andrew Lock Saribung Peter Allen, Mick Successful . Summit First Australian (6328 m) Chapman, Nima Lama, reached on 19 May ascent . Damodar Himal, and 2006 by Allen, Nima, Nepal Pasang Nima Sherpa Mingma and Pasang Nima . Broad Peak Terry Tremble Reached 7500 m . (8047 m) W Face, Pakistan

565 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Broad Peak Nic Barcley, Mark Sheen reached Camp (8047 m) W Face, Sheen and Mick Parker Iv . Pakistan Cho Oyu Blair Falahey Successful . Falahey (8201 m) reached summit on NW Face, Tibet 20 October . 2007 Dhaulagiri Mick Parker Unsuccessful . Reached Avalanche killed two I (8167 m) 7000 m . Parker fell into Spaniards at Camp NE Ridge, Nepal crevasse . II, Parker abandoned expedition . Lhotse (8516 m) Blair Falahey Summit reached on Used oxygen from W Face, Nepal 21 May 2007 . Camp Iv . Annapurna I Andrew Lock Reached summit on First Australian (8091 m) N Face 24 May . ascent . (French route), Nepal Chamser Kangri Lindsay Abbotts Successful . Summit First Australian (6622 m) , (UK), Silvana Adams, reached on 23 July ascent . Peregrine India Peter Allen, Elizabeth 2007 by Harkins and Adventures Armitage, Bryan Allen, on 26 July expedition . Atkins, Mick Chapman, by Harkins, Atkins, Christine Clarence, Fruish and Lawrence, Bryan Fruish (UK), on 27 July by Allen, Kevin Harkins, Alan Armitage, Haala, Johnston, Bett , Johnston and Pilling Francis Lawrence, Neil and on 28 July by Pilling, David Rae and Chapman, Abbotts, Rahul Sharma (India) Adams, Koch and Clarence . Gasherbrum I Mike Cook, Lesley Mick Parker reached Second Australian (8068 m) Gidding, Damien summit on 29 July . ascent of G1 . Japanese Couloir, Gildea, Brian Laursen, Zaharias, Robb and Pakistan Mick Parker, Geoff Warner reached 7400 m Robb, Dr James on 20 July . Strohfeldt, Mick Vander Vlist, Chris Warner and Zac Zaharias (leader) Gasherbrum II Mary Adams, Falahey reached Expedition (8035 m) Catherine Carlyle and 7500 m . abandoned due SE Ridge, Blair Falahey (guide) on to poor weather Pakistan commercial expedition and two avalanche deaths (from another team). Manaslu (8163 m) Mick Parker Unsuccessful . NE Face, Nepal Shisha Pangma Blair Falahey Reached 7400 m . (Central Summit) Climb abandoned after (8026 m) climbing partner died . N Ridge, Tibet

566 Appendix

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Shivling (6543m) Noel Eatough, John Rogerson and Indo-Australian W Ridge, India Morrison, Sean Parkes, Pemberton summited military expedition . Shannon Parkinson, on 3 October, plus five Max Pemberton, Indian climbers . Mark Raymond, Matt Rogerson (leader), Shane Saltmarsh, Liam Scarlett and 20 Indian climbers 2008 Manaslu (8163 m) Mick Parker and Ben Parker reached summit NE Face, Nepal Grayling on 14 May; Grayling reached 7800 m . Lhotse (8516 m) Margaret Watroba on Watroba reached W Face, Nepal DCXP commercial 6000 m . expedition Makalu (8463 m) Andrew Lock Summited on 21 May Nepal 2008 . Bhrikuti (6372m) Mick Chapman, Successful . Summit First Australian Damodar Himal, Peter Allen, Elizabeth reached on 14 May ascent . Group exited Nepal Armitage, Bett Koch, 2008 . through Mustang . Bryan Fruish (UK) and Lindsay Abbotts (UK) Makalu (8463 m) Blair Falahey Unsuccessful . Reached Nepal 8000 m . K2 (8611 m) Chris Warner and Paul Chirring Dorje Sherpa Climb abandoned Abruzzi Ridge, Walters on international reached summit on after serac collapse Pakistan expedition led by Mike 1 August . Walters on the bottleneck Farris (USA) reached 8000 m and saw 11 climbers Warner 6800 m . perish . K2 (8611 m) Mark Sheen on a Reached 8000 m . Delayed his summit Abruzzi Ridge, Dutch expedition attempt due to Pakistan overcrowding at Camp IV then abandoned climb after serac collapse . Dhaulagiri Mick Parker Reached 6500 m . I (8167 m) Abandoned due to NE Spur, Nepal poor weather . James Point Gemma Woldendorp Successful . New route Ascent of Triple (4965 m), Nazomi and Natasha Sebire on James Point and first Crown involved Peak (5300m) ascent of Nazomi Peak 1000 m of mixed and Triple Crown and Triple Crown . climbing on snow, (5800m) NW ice and rock, AD+ Ridge, Chhudong 70 degrees . Valley, Himachal Pradesh, India

567 Himalayan Dreaming

Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Kyajo Ri (6186 m) Armando Corvini Unsuccessful. Franklin- SE Route, Nepal (leader), Chris Browne and Holland Brown, Graham reached 5500 m . Franklin-Browne, Kerry Flanagan, Greg Holland and Adam Lyddiard 2009 Himlung (7128 m) Duncan Chessell Chessell, Sarah, First Australian North Spur of NW (leader), Ian Lord, Morrow and Mannix ascent of Himlung . Ridge, Nepal Damian Mannix, Jock reached summit on MacLachlan, Jim 6 November 2009 . Morrow (NZ), Katie Yates and MacLachlan Sarah, Simon Yates reached 6800 m on (UK) and Greg Turner 7 November . Makalu (8463 m) Mick Parker and Parker and Hunter Parker died in Nepal Roland Hunter (UK) reached summit on on 21 May . 4 June, soon after his ascent . Andrew Lock and Neil Lock and Ward reached First Australian (8046 m) North Ward (UK) summit on 2 October . ascent of Face variant, Shishapangma . Tibet Lock first Australian to climb all 14 of the 8000 m peaks . Saribung Silvana Adams, Successful . Summit Peregrine (6328 m) Peter Allen, Bryan reached on 17 May Adventures Damodar Himal, Atkins, David Casson, 2009 by Atkins, expedition . Group Nepal Andrew Grandison, Witham, Tomasic, exited through Wolfgang Haala, Casson, Raza, Mustang . Nevan Wadeson, Grandison, Haala, Alan Johnston, Trevor Wadeson, Allen, Lhakpa Klose, David Rae, Tengi Sherpa and Sheraz Raza, Alan Mingma Sherpa . Tomasic and David Witham Amotsang Damien Gildea and Reached 5900 m during Exploratory climbing (6393 m) and Chris Warner attempt of new route in a newly opened Pokarkhan on the north face of area north of the (6345 m) Pokarkhan . No feasible Marsyandi Valley in Damodar Himal, route found on west Central Nepal . Nepal side of Amotsang .

Notes: This and the following two tables are based on surveys of Australian Himalayan climbs that have been published in Wild magazine (nos 40 [Autumn 1991], 55 [Summer 1995], 80 [Autumn 2001], 92 [Autumn 2004] and 100 [Autumn 2006]). The first two surveys were compiled by Will Steffen and the remainder by Zac Zaharias. This table includes all successful Australian ascents of significant Himalayan peaks (generally considered to be above 5500 m), but only first Australian ascents of ‘trekking peaks’ in Nepal and Tibet . It also includes near ascents on major Himalayan peaks and other unsuccessful attempts, which are considered noteworthy for any reason (for example, technical difficulty, unclimbed peak, death). Where possible, differentiation is made between those summiting as clients on commercial expeditions and those who participate in a commercial expedition in an unguided or free- climbing capacity . Climbers of other nationalities have been listed only when they are notable, have done something of interest, are Sherpas climbing with Australians or are guides . Ascents of Shisha Pangma Central Summit are recognised as an ascent of an 8000-m summit in this survey. From 2006, the table does not include commercial expeditions to Mt Everest, Cho-Oyu, Shisha Pangma and Ama Dablam. 568 Appendix

Table 2 Australian ascents of 8000 metre Himalayan peaks, 1984–2009

Peak Date of first First Australian(s) to summit Total number Australian ascent of Australians to reach summit# Mt Everest (8850 m) 3 October 1984 Tim Macartney-Snape, 49 Greg Mortimer K2 (8611 m) 20 August 1990 Greg Child, Greg Mortimer 4 Kangchenjunga (8586 m) 10 October 1987 John Coulten, Mike Groom 3 Lhotse (8516 m) 6 May 1995 Mike Groom 3 Makalu (8463 m) 8 May 1995 Mark Auricht, David Hume* 6 Cho Oyu (8201 m) 11 May 1990 Mike Groom 36 Dhaulagiri I (8167 m) 25 May 1997 Andrew Lock, Matt Rogerson, 4 Zac Zaharias Manaslu (8163 m) 21 April 2002 Andrew Lock 7 Nanga Parbat (8126 m) 21 July 1998 Andrew Lock 1 Annapurna I (8091 m) 24 May 2007 Andrew Lock 1 Gasherbrum I (8068 m) 17 July 1999 Andrew Lock 2 Broad Peak (8047 m) 16 August 1986 Brian Agnew, Pat Cullinan, 11 Jon Chester, Peter Lambert, Terry McCullagh, Mike Rheinberger, Jim van Gelder, Zac Zaharias Shishapangma (8046 m) 2 October 2009 Andrew Lock 1 Shishapangma Central 26 May 1990 Mark Lemaire 30 (8024 m) Gasherbrum II (8035 m) 16 August 1987 Geoff Little 5

* Died during the descent # Does not include multiple ascents

Table 3 Australian Himalayan climbing deaths, 1972–2009*

Name Mountain Year Cause Tony Tighe Mt Everest 1972 Serac collapse Lynne Griffith Dhaulagiri I 1980 Avalanche Stafford Morse Annapurna III 1980 Avalanche Nicholas Reeves Annapurna III 1980 Avalanche Richard Schmidt Annapurna III 1980 Avalanche David Sloane Ganesh IV 1981 Avalanche Mark Moorhead Makalu 1983 Fall Fred From Mt Everest 1984 Fall Craig Nottle Mt Everest 1984 Fall Keith Egerton Jannu 1986 Altitude illness

569 Himalayan Dreaming

Name Mountain Year Cause Mike Rheinberger Mt Everest 1994 Cerebral oedema David Hume Makalu 1995 Fall Mark Auricht Mt Everest 2001 Cerebral oedema Paul Carr Cho Oyu 2003 Blocked artery Sue Fear Manaslu 2006 Fall in crevasse

* Deaths that occurred at or above the base camp while on a mountaineering expedition . The table does not include deaths that occurred while trekking in or out of an expedition .

570 This text is taken from Himalayan Dreaming: Australian mountaineering in the great ranges of Asia, 1922–1990, by Will Steffen, published 2017 by ANU Press, The Australian National University, , Australia.