DOCSLIB.ORG

Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Australian Mountaineering in the Great Ranges of Asia, 1922–1990 Appendix: Record of Australian mountaineering in the Himalaya Zac Zaharias Table 1 Australian Himalayan climbs, 1922–2009 (based on surveys in Wild magazine) Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments 1922 Mt Everest George Finch, member Unsuccessful . Finch First serious attempt (8850 m) of 11-man British and Geoffrey Bruce on Mt Everest . N Ridge/Face, expedition reached 8350 m using Australian Finch Tibet supplementary oxygen . climbed higher than any other human had previously climbed . Finch proved that supplementary oxygen could definitely benefit climbers . 1957 Exploratory Geoffrey Bratt and Explored in Siachen Exploratory trip expedition, Grahame Budd, Glacier area . Climbed mounted by Karakoram, members of eight-man Towitz Peak (6400 m) Imperial College Pakistan British expedition led and Island Peak Mountaineering by Eric Shipton (6860 m). Club . 1960 K12 (7470 m) Jon Stephenson, Unsuccessful . Stephenson first NW Ridge, member of four-man Stephenson climbed Australian to climb Karakoram, British expedition with porter to 6640 m to 7000 m without Pakistan and solo to 7000 m . supplementary oxygen . 1963 Langtang II Peter Taylor Successful . Climbed Sometimes cited (6583 m) E Face, with four Sherpas . as first Australian Central Nepal Probably shortest-ever expedition to Himalayan expedition . Himalaya; however, Four days from road to Taylor was an base camp; five days itinerant British to climb mountain . geologist stationed in Australia for a few years . 1975 Jannu (7710 m) Geoff Wayatt, Unsuccessful . High Wayatt first N Face, Eastern member of 12-man point reached: 7360 m . Australian on Nepal New Zealand ‘modern’ expedition . expedition led by He and Jim Strang Peter Farrell overcame major obstacle of route with bold, alpine- style assault . 535 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Mulkila IV Michel Altermann Unsuccessful . Reached First truly Australian (6517 m) (France), Garry 6000 m . Six members expedition to the W Ridge, Lahoul, Ash, Adrian Blake, subsequently climbed Himalaya . Organised India Dorothy Brown, Mulkila V (5930 m). and led by Warwick Warwick Deacock, Deacock . Jim Dorrington, Harry Eldridge, Josephine Flood, Terri Jack (UK), Derek Lucas, Peter Morris, Michael Richards, John Ryder, Keith Seddon, John Wanless 1976 Bethartoli John Attkinson, Peter Successful . South (6318 m) Marsh, Bob Ryan, Gangotri, India Kevin Westren 1977 Changabang Charlie Cuthbertson, Unsuccessful . First of many (6864 m) E Ridge, Andy Henderson, Henderson, Hendy Australian attempts Garhwal, India Martin Hendy, Garry and Noble climbed to on this striking and Matthew, Malcolm within 50 vertical m difficult mountain. Noble of summit . Stopped by bad weather . Khumbu trekking Geoff Batten, Mike Successful . First Australian peaks Eastern Douglas, Fergus ascent of popular Nepal Fitzgerald, Greg trekking peak Imja Hodge, Phil Robinson, Tse (Island Peak; Mendelt Tillema 6189 m) and of Parchamo (6187 m). 1978 Dunagiri (7066 m) John Armstrong, Ken Successful. Macartney- Most significant SW Ridge, Baldwin, Ken Bell, Andy Snape reached summit; of early Australian Garhwal, India Blakers, Andrew Bond, Hall stopped 200 m expeditions . First Keith Burns, Peter short . Epic descent Australian ascent Cocker, John Finnigan, through electrical storm . of 7000 m peak . Lincoln Hall, Theo Hall suffered frostbite. Launched careers Hooy, Tim Macartney- Cocker organised of Tim Macartney- Snape, Charlie Massy, helicopter rescue of Hall Snape and Mark Podkolinski, from Col Camp . Lincoln Hall . Ben Sandilands, Martin Stone 1979 Dharamsura Peter Allen, Max Successful . All but Berry First Australian (White Sail, Berry, Ed Neve, Mike reached summit . ascent . Alpine style . 6445 m) Rheinberger, Andrew SW Ridge, Kulu, Rothfield, Gary Wills India Angdu Ri Mike Rheinberger, Successful . Both (5954 m) Andrew Rothfield reached summit . NE Ridge, Kulu, India Ali Ratna Tibba Phil Cullen, Lincoln Successful . Hall and First Australian (5750 m) SW Hall, Tim Macartney- Macartney-Snape ascent . Alpine style . Ridge, Kulu, India Snape reached summit . They also climbed Geru (5100 m). 536 APPENDIX Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments 1980 Dhaulagiri I Lynne Griffith, member Unsuccessful . High On first trip to (8167 m) of US women’s point reached: 6500 m . Himalayas, Lynne NW Ridge, expedition led by Vera Expedition abandoned Griffith killed when Central Nepal Komarkova when Griffith killed in avalanche swept avalanche . Camp II . Annapurna III Geof Bartram, Adrian Unsuccessful . High Worst Australian (7555 m) N Face, Blake, Ken Bowes, point reached: 5000 m . tragedy ever Central Nepal Jonathan Chester, Expedition abandoned in Himalaya; Steve Colman, when Morse, Reeves compounded when Warwick Deacock, and Schmidt killed in Faye Kerr died of Brian Fearnley (NZ), avalanche . stomach problems Jack Higgs, Ray in India after Johnston, Faye Kerr, expedition . Steve McDowell, Colin Monteath (NZ), Stafford Morse, Nick Reeves, Richard Schmidt Gauri Shankar Chris Bennett, Graham Unsuccessful . High First Himalayan (7146 m) Brammer, Wayne point reached: expedition of Army SE Ridge, Carroll, Pat Cullinan, subsidiary summit Alpine Association Eastern Nepal Mick Hardless, Tseringma (6333 m). (AAA). First ascent Val Lishman, Jim of Tseringma . MacDonald, John Remynse, Paul Richards, Barry Young Changabang Peter Allen, Paul Successful . Anderson, First Australian (6864 m) E Ridge, Anderson, Max Berry, Rheinberger and ascent . Achievement Garhwal, India John Dunlop, Tim Rothfield reached marred by death of Hughes, Pat Miller, summit . Tim Hughes in fall in Malcolm Noble, Mike Rishi Gorge on walk Rheinberger, Andrew out . Rothfield 1981 Shivling (6543 m) Greg Child and Rick Successful . Georges First ascent of E Pillar, Gangotri, White, members of Bettembourg, Child, E Pillar of Shivling . India international expedition Scott and White First Himalayan led by Doug Scott reached summit after success for Greg 13-day alpine-style Child . push . Ganesh IV Brian Agnew, John Unsuccessful . High Second AAA (7102 m) Cashman, Roy point reached: 5800 m . expedition to S Face/E Ridge, McDonald, Rob Expedition abandoned Himalaya . Central Nepal Phillpot, Phil Pitham, when Sloane was killed Fritz Schaumburg, by avalanche that swept Dave Simpson, Dave Camp II . Sloane, Jim Truscott, Zac Zaharias Ama Dablam Hooman Aprin (USA), Successful . Hall, First Australian (6854 m) Lincoln Hall, Andy Henderson and ascent . N Ridge, Eastern Henderson, Damien Macartney-Snape Nepal Jones, Tim Macartney- reached summit . Snape, Ken McMahon, Dave Pluth (USA) 537 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Anyemaqen Geof Bartram, Lincoln Successful . Bartram, First Australian (6282 m) E Face, Hall, Andy Henderson, Hall, Henderson and ascent . Kunlun, Central Tim Macartney-Snape, Macartney-Snape China Charlie Massy climbed E Peak (6152 m); Hall and Macartney-Snape traversed to main summit . Yalung Kang Cherie Bremer-Kamp, Unsuccessful . High Bremer-Kamp had (8505 m) N Face, Chris Chandler (USA) point reached: 7800 m . been on earlier Eastern Nepal US expeditions to Dhaulagiri and K2 . 1982 Changabang Roddy Mackenzie, Successful . All four Second ascent of (6864 m) Mark Moorhead, Jon climbers reached route; first in alpine SW Pillar, Muir, Craig Nottle summit . style. Very difficult Garhwal, India climb technically; all four climbers on their first Himalayan trip. Lhotse (8516 m) Adrian Burgess (UK), Unsuccessful . High From first Australian N Ridge, Eastern Fred From, Peter point reached: 8250 m . to climb more than Nepal Hillary (NZ), Paul 8000 m without Moores (UK) supplementary oxygen . Trisul (7120 m) Geof Bartram, John Unsuccessful . High First guided Garhwal, India Coulton, Mike Groom, point reached: 6800 m . Australian climb in Lincoln Hall, Tim Stopped by sustained, Himalaya . Bartram, Macartney-Snape and violent storm . Hall and Macartney- four US climbers Snape were guides . Nanda Devi Keith Egerton, Hugh Unsuccessful . High Expedition plagued (7816 m) Foxcroft, Tom Millar, point reached: 7400 by illness and SE Ridge, Ed Neve, Mike m, by Rheinberger accidents . Neve and Garhwal, India Rheinberger, Gary Wills and Wills . Stopped by Millar evacuated by storm . helicopter . East Kulu John Burrow, Nick Successful . Climbed First Australian expedition Kulu, Groves (UK), John a number of peaks: ascents . India Marshall, Brett Ryan, Corner Peak (6140 m); Terry Ryan Kulu Makalu (5882 m); Tiger Tooth (5980 m); The Dome (5880 m); Shigri Parbat (6640 m). Peak 29 (Dakura, Brian Agnew, member Unsuccessful . High Expedition plagued 7837 m) S Ridge, of large British Army point reached: 6000 m . by problems Central Nepal expedition including: gear lost in transit, wrong approach to mountain, dispute with local villagers on trek in and horrific snow conditions on 8 km-long ridge. Kwangde Shar Mick Chapman, Colin Successful . First Australian (6093 m) Eastern Pont ascent . Nepal 538 APPENDIX Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Mera Peak Stephen Bunton, Tim Successful . Also First Australian (6476 m) N Face Carroll, Jeff Crass, Ivan climbed Nau Lekh ascents . (Glacier), Eastern Dessailly, Mike Myers, (6363 m). Nepal Peter Webber and one other climber Pisang Peak Bruce Fox, Ian Successful . First Australian (6091 m) Ravenscroft, Fritz ascent of this SW Face/Ridge, Schaumburg (guide), trekking peak north Central Nepal Enn Troopold and three of the Annapurna other clients Himal . 1983 Annapurna II Mike Groom, Lincoln Successful . Hall,
Load more

Recommended publications
  • The South Face of Dhaulagiri
    181 The South Face of Dhaulagiri Franci Savenc Yugoslav alpinists selected the S face of Dhaulagiri (8167m) as a goal some years ago. A request for permission for spring 1982 was submitted as they returned from Everest in 1979. However, in the spring of 1981 approval was received for the post-monsoon period. Although the expedition to the S face of Lhotse had scarcely been concluded, and another was not planned, it was essential to accept the offer. The expedition leader immediately left on a reconnaissance mission and established 2 possibilities: to the left and right of the funnel-shaped central section of the face. After speeded-up preparations, 6 alpinists left on 3 September 1981 for Nepal. Accompanied by Mr Mihan Khadka as liaison officer, five Nepalese staff and 56 porters they left Pokhara on 12 September. The final section of the approach march was over virgin ground. On 23 September they reached the location of Base Camp (3950m), where the low altitude porters left them. Nevertheless by 26 September Base Camp had·been set up. Following a period of bad weather and research, the only acclimatization tour/climb possible was made to Manapanti (6380m) during 1-3 October. From 7-13 October the lower part of the face was explored, the climbers reaching an altitude of 5300m, fixing 400m of rope (grades IV and V) and pitching a tent at 5150m. 15 act.: Stane Belak, Cene Bercic and Emil Tratnik started upon the face and left their tent (5150m) at 0235 the following day. At 0900 they were halted for 7 hours by falling stones at an altitude of 5500m.
    [Show full text]
  • A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
    The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya.
    [Show full text]
  • Charles Pickles (Presidenl 1976-1978) the FELL and ROCK JOURNAL
    Charles Pickles (Presidenl 1976-1978) THE FELL AND ROCK JOURNAL Edited by TERRY SULLIVAN No. 66 VOLUME XXIII (No. I) Published by THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB OF THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT 1978 CONTENTS PAGE Cat Among the Pigeons ... ... ... Ivan Waller 1 The Attempt on Latok II ... ... ... Pal Fearneough 1 The Engadine Marathon ... ... ... Gordon Dyke 12 Woubits - A Case History ... ... ... Ian Roper 19 More Shambles in the Alps Bob Allen 23 Annual Dinner Meet, 1976 Bill Comstive 28 Annual Dinner Meet, 1977 ... ... Maureen Linton 29 The London Section ... ... ... Margaret Darvall 31 High Level Walking in the Pennine Alps John Waddams 32 New Climbs and Notes ... ... ... Ed Grindley 44 In Memoriam... ... ... ... ... ... ... 60 The Library ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 76 Reviews ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 82 Officers of the Club 117 Meets 119 © FELL AND ROCK CLIMBINO CLUB PRINTED BY HILL & TYLER LTD., NOTTINGHAM Editor T. SULLIVAN B BLOCK UNIVERSITY PARK NOTTINGHAM Librarian IReviews MRS. J. FARRINGTON UNIVERSITY LIBRARY BAILRIGG LANCASTER New Climbs D. MILLER 31 BOSBURN DRIVE MELLOR BROOK BLACKBURN LANCASHIRE Obituary Notices R. BROTHERTON SILVER BIRCH FELL LANE PENRITH CUMBRIA Exchange Journals Please send these to the Librarian GAT AMONG THE PIGEONS Ivan Waller Memory is a strange thing. I once re-visited the Dolomites where I had climbed as a young man and thought I could remember in fair detail everywhere I had been. To my surprise I found all that remained in my mind were a few of the spect• acular peaks, and huge areas in between, I might never have seen before. I have no doubt my memory of events behaves in just the same way, and imagination tries to fill the gaps.
    [Show full text]
  • DEATH ZONE FREERIDE About the Project
    DEATH ZONE FREERIDE About the project We are 3 of Snow Leopards, who commit the hardest anoxic high altitude ascents and perform freeride from the tops of the highest mountains on Earth (8000+). We do professional one of a kind filming on the utmost altitude. THE TRICKIEST MOUNTAINS ON EARTH NO BOTTLED OXYGEN CHALLENGES TO HUMAN AND NATURE NO EXTERIOR SUPPORT 8000ERS FREERIDE FROM THE TOPS MOVIES ALONE WITH NATURE FREERIDE DESCENTS 5 3 SNOW LEOS Why the project is so unique? PROFESSIONAL FILMING IN THE HARDEST CONDITIONS ❖ Higher than 8000+ m ❖ Under challenging efforts ❖ Without bottled oxygen & exterior support ❖ Severe weather conditions OUTDOOR PROJECT-OF-THE-YEAR “CRYSTAL PEAK 2017” AWARD “Death zone freeride” project got the “Crystal Peak 2017” award in “Outdoor project-of-the-year” nomination. It is comparable with “Oscar” award for Russian outdoor sphere. Team ANTON VITALY CARLALBERTO PUGOVKIN LAZO CIMENTI Snow Leopard. Snow Leopard. Leader The first Italian Snow Leopard. MC in mountaineering. Manaslu of “Mountain territory” club. Specializes in a ski mountaineering. freeride 8163m. High altitude Ski-mountaineer. Participant cameraman. of more than 20 high altitude expeditions. Mountains of the project Manaslu Annapurna Nanga–Parbat Everest K2 8163m 8091m 8125m 8848m 8611m The highest mountains on Earth ❖ 8027 m Shishapangma ❖ 8167 m Dhaulagiri I ❖ 8035 m Gasherbrum II (K4) ❖ 8201 m Cho Oyu ❖ 8051 m Broad Peak (K3) ❖ 8485 m Makalu ❖ 8080 m Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak, K5) ❖ 8516 m Lhotse ❖ 8091 m Annapurna ❖ 8586 m Kangchenjunga ❖ 8126 m Nanga–Parbat ❖ 8614 m Chogo Ri (K2) ❖ 8156 m Manaslu ❖ 8848 m Chomolungma (Everest) Mountains that we climbed on MANASLU September 2017 The first and unique freeride descent from the altitude 8000+ meters among Russian sportsmen.
    [Show full text]
  • Nepal 1982 Letter from Kathmandu
    199 Nepal 1982 Letter from Kathmandu Mike Cheney Post-Monsoon, 1981 Of the 42 expeditions which arrived in Nepal for the post-monsoon season, 17 were successful and 25 unsuccessful. The weather right across the Nepal Himal was exceptionally fine during the whole ofOctober and November with the exception of the first week in November, when a cyclone in western India brought rain and snow for 2 or 3 days. As traditionally happens, the Monsoon finished right on time with a major downpour of rain on 28 September. The worst of the storm was centred over a fairly small part of Central Nepal, the area immediately south of the Annapurna range. The heavy snowfalls caused 6 deaths (2 Sherpas, 2 Japanese and 2 French) on Annapurna Himal expeditions, over 200 other Nepalis also died, and many more lost their homes and all their possessions-the losses on expeditions were small indeed compared with those of the Hill and Terai peoples. Four other expedition members died as a result of accidents-2 Japanese and 2 Swiss. Winter season, 1981/82 There were four foreign expeditions during the winter climbing season, which is December and January in Nepal. Two expeditions were on Makalu-one British expedition of 6 members, led by Ron Rutland, and one French. In addition there was an American expedition to Pumori and a Canadian expedition to Annapurna IV. The American expedition to Pumori was successful. Pre-Monsoon, 1982 This was one of the most successful seasons for many years. Of the 28 expeditions attempting 26 peaks-there were 2 expeditions on Kanchenjunga and 2 on Lamjung-21 were successful.
    [Show full text]
  • Scenes from the 20Th Century
    Scenes from the 20th Century REINHOLD MESSNER An Essay for the New Millennium Based on a lecture given at the Alpine Club Symposium: 'Climbing into the Millennium - Where's it Going?' at Sheffield Hallam University on 6 March 1999 erhaps I'm the right age now, with the right perspective to view Pmountaineering, both its past and its future. Enough time has elapsed between my last eight-thousander and my first heart attack for me to be able to look more calmly at what it is we do. I believe it will not be easy for us to agree on an ethic that will save mountaineering for the next millennium. But in our search for such an ethic we first need to ask ourselves what values are the most important to us, both in our motivation for going to the mountains and on the mountains themselves. The first and most important thing I want to say has to do with risk. If we go to the mountains and forget that we are taking a risk, we will make mistakes, like those tourists recently in Austria who were trapped in a valley hit by an avalanche; 38 of them were killed. All over Europe people said: 'How could 38 people die in an avalanche? They were just on a skiing holiday.' They forgot that mountains are dangerous. But it's also important to remember that mountains are only dangerous if people are there. A mountain is a mountain; its basic existence doesn't pose a threat to anyone. It's a piece of rock and ice, beautiful maybe, but dangerous only if you approach it.
    [Show full text]
  • Strategy and Action Plan 2016-2025 Chitwan-Annapurna Landscape, Nepal Strategy Andactionplan2016-2025|Chitwan-Annapurnalandscape,Nepal
    Strategy and Action Plan 2016-2025 Chitwan-Annapurna Landscape, Nepal Strategy andActionPlan2016-2025|Chitwan-AnnapurnaLandscape,Nepal Government of Nepal Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation Singha Durbar, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: +977-1- 4211567, 4211936 Fax: +977-1-4223868 Website: www.mfsc.gov.np Government of Nepal Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation Strategy and Action Plan 2016-2025 Chitwan-Annapurna Landscape, Nepal Government of Nepal Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation Publisher: Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation, Singha Durbar, Kathmandu, Nepal Citation: Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation 2015. Strategy and Action Plan 2016-2025, Chitwan-Annapurna Landscape, Nepal Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation, Singha Durbar, Kathmandu, Nepal Cover photo credits: Forest, River, Women in Community and Rhino © WWF Nepal, Hariyo Ban Program/ Nabin Baral Snow leopard © WWF Nepal/ DNPWC Rhododendron © WWF Nepal Back cover photo credits: Forest, Gharial, Peacock © WWF Nepal, Hariyo Ban Program/ Nabin Baral Red Panda © Kamal Thapa/ WWF Nepal Buckwheat fi eld in Ghami village, Mustang © WWF Nepal, Hariyo Ban Program/ Kapil Khanal Women in wetland © WWF Nepal, Hariyo Ban Program/ Kashish Das Shrestha © Ministry of Forests and Soil Conservation Acronyms and Abbreviations ACA Annapurna Conservation Area asl Above Sea Level BZ Buffer Zone BZUC Buffer Zone User Committee CA Conservation Area CAMC Conservation Area Management Committee CAPA Community Adaptation Plans for Action CBO Community Based Organization CBS
    [Show full text]
  • Catalogue 48: June 2013
    Top of the World Books Catalogue 48: June 2013 Mountaineering Fiction. The story of the struggles of a Swiss guide in the French Alps. Neate X134. Pete Schoening Collection – Part 1 Habeler, Peter. The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ‘78. 1979 Simon & We are most pleased to offer a number of items from the collection of American Schuster, NY, 1st, 8vo, pp.224, 23 color & 50 bw photos, map, white/blue mountaineer Pete Schoening (1927-2004). Pete is best remembered in boards; bookplate Ex Libris Pete Schoening & his name in pencil, dj w/ edge mountaineering circles for performing ‘The Belay’ during the dramatic descent wear, vg-, cloth vg+. #9709, $25.- of K2 by the Third American Karakoram Expedition in 1953. Pete’s heroics The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 with Messner. This is the US saved six men. However, Pete had many other mountain adventures, before and edition of ‘Everest: Impossible Victory’. Neate H01, SB H01, Yak H06. after K2, including: numerous climbs with Fred Beckey (1948-49), Mount Herrligkoffer, Karl. Nanga Parbat: The Killer Mountain. 1954 Knopf, NY, Saugstad (1st ascent, 1951), Mount Augusta (1st ascent) and King Peak (2nd & 1st, 8vo, pp.xx, 263, viii, 56 bw photos, 6 maps, appendices, blue cloth; book- 3rd ascents, 1952), Gasherburm I/Hidden Peak (1st ascent, 1958), McKinley plate Ex Libris Pete Schoening, dj spine faded, edge wear, vg, cloth bookplate, (1960), Mount Vinson (1st ascent, 1966), Pamirs (1974), Aconcagua (1995), vg. #9744, $35.- Kilimanjaro (1995), Everest (1996), not to mention countless climbs in the Summarizes the early attempts on Nanga Parbat from Mummery in 1895 and Pacific Northwest.
    [Show full text]
  • Working in Partnership with the People of the Himalaya 2018/2019
    Working in partnership with the people of the Himalaya ANNUAL REPORT 2018/2019 Sustainable education, health and environmental projects Our mission ‘why we exist’ To improve the quality of life of the people most in Our vision need in remote areas ‘what we will of the Himalaya. help to change’ We work in partnership with the people of the Himalaya to help the most disadvantaged meet their priority needs through integrated improvements in education, health and the environment. Our guiding principles ‘how we work’ Our work is guided by: Strong partnerships – we take a participatory approach with communities to understand issues from their perspective and, in partnership with them, work to deliver the outcomes they need most. Empowerment – we aim to engage and empower people in the communities where we work so any change is sustained. Alignment & harmonisation – we work closely with national governments to align our focus with their policies and priorities and we harmonise our approaches with Australian development programs and those of other development partners. A long-term view – we are committed to building long-term capacity in the communities in which we operate. Respect – we are cognisant of cultural and social sensitivities and are inclusive and respectful of all the people we work with. Value for money – we monitor our projects to ensure they are evidence- based and relevant, delivered efficiently and are cost-effective. Excellent governance – we have robust internal processes and governance and work diligently with partners and governments to safeguard monies entrusted to us. Independence – we are a secular NGO with no political or religious affiliations, goals or policies.
    [Show full text]
  • Age of Crystallization and Cooling of the K2 Gneiss in the Baltoro
    Journal of the Geological Society, London, Vol. 147, 1990, pp. 603-606, 3 figs 2 tables. Printed in Northern Ireland SHORT PAPER evidence of Precambrian inheritance (Parrish & Tirrull989). Earlier pre-collision granites within theKarakoram Age of crystallization and cooling of the batholith include the Muztagh Tower unit (Fig. 1) composed K2 gneiss in the Baltoro Karakoram of biotite and hornblende-rich foliated granodiorites, which gave three K-Ar hornblende ages spanning 82-75 f 3 Ma M.P. SEARLE', R. R. PARRISH', (Searle et al. 1989), and the Hushegneiss, SE of the Baltoro R.TIRRUL** & D.C. REX3 area, which has a U-Pb zircon age of 145 f 5 Ma and two 'Department of Earth Sciences, Oxford University, 40Ar-39Arages of 203 f 0.6 Ma and 204 f 1.4 Ma (Searle et Parks Road, Oxford OX1 3PR al. 1989). Further west,hornblende-bearing granodiorites 'Geological Survey of Canada, 601 Booth Street, from the Hunza plutonic unit gave a U-Pb age of 95 f 4 Ottawa, Canada KlA OE8 (LeFort et al. 1983) and similar granites at the Darkot Pass Department of Earth Sciences, Leeds University, gave a Rb-Sr isochron age of 111 f 6 (Debon et al. 1987). Leeds, LS2 9JT These pre-collision granites of the Karakoram batholith all have calc-alkaline geochemical affinities and have been interpretedas Andean-type granitesalong thesouthern continental margin of the Asian plate, related to the Themountains of K2 (8611 m)and Broad Peak (8047111) in the northward subduction of Tethyan oceanic crust (LeFort et Baltoro (northernPakistan) are composedof Karakoram al.
    [Show full text]
  • Spirits of the Air. Kurt Diemberger. Translated from the German
    Spirits o f the Air. Kurt Diemberger. Translated from the German by Audrey Salkeld. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1994. 304 pages, numerous photo­ graphs, maps and other drawings. Appendices: a metric conversion table, chronology of the author’s important climbs and expeditions, brief note on mountaineering terminology, and selected bibliography. $27.95. Kurt Diemberger’s mountaineering and expedition filming accomplishments, spanning nearly 50 years, are a marvel to behold. His autobiographical Summits and Secrets, published in 1971 when Kurt was 39, established him as a mountaineering writer of considerable talent. By this time he had already participated in first ascents of two major peaks Broad Peak (8047 meters) and Dhaulagiri (8167 meters). The 1957 ascent of Broad Peak was accomplished in alpine-style, without either oxygen or high-altitude porters, quite an achievement for this 4-man team consisting of Diemberger, Hermann Buhl, Fritz Wintersteller and Markus Schmuck. Later, in 1978, he added Makalu (8463 meters) and Everest (8848 meters) to his 8000-meter peak list; and Gasherbrum II (8035 meters) a year later. It was on this French-led Everest expedition that Kurt made film history by producing a sync-sound film on the summit. Diemberger became the cameraman of choice for many international expeditions and between 1982-86 journeyed several times to K2 with the Englishwoman Julie Tullis; together they established themselves as the only 8000-meter film team, Kurt with the camera, Julie in charge of sound. They climbed K2 in the summer of 1986, but as they retreated to high camp on the Abruzzi Spur they and five other mountaineers were imprisoned by a catastrophic week-long blizzard.
    [Show full text]
  • Annapurna I, East Ridge, Third Ascent. One of the Most Nota
    C LIMBS A ND E XP E DITIONS : N E PA L 375 Nepal ANNAPURNA HIMAL Annapurna I, east ridge, third ascent. One of the most nota- ble accomplishments of the season was the second two- way traverse of the east ridge of Annapurna I (8,091m). When the well-known Pol- ish climber, Piotr Pustelnik, organized his four-man team for this task, he was well aware of the difficulties they would confront on this huge ridge, which starts from Tarke Kang (a.k.a. Glacier Dome, 7,193m) in the east and runs westward over Roc Noir to the three 8,000m summits of Annapurna. However, he did not anticipate the addition of two not-so-highly skilled Tibetans on his permit and the problems one of them would present. The first ascent of the east ridge, which resulted in an elegant traverse of Annapurna, ranks with some of the most significant events in the history of Himalayan climbing. The ridge was first attempted by Germans in 1969, and again in 1981 by a Swedish team, the latter getting as far as the East Summit of Annapurna. Both approached via the West Annapurna Glacier and the east side of the col north of Fluted Peak. In September and October 1984 a six-man expedition entirely formed of Swiss guides, established four camps from the South Annapurna Glacier, climbing to the col between Fluted Peak and Tarke Kang from the more difficult but less dangerous west side, then, in common with the Germans and Swedes, up the ridge above to Tarke Kang itself.
    [Show full text]