Appendix: Record of Australian mountaineering in the Himalaya Zac Zaharias Table 1 Australian Himalayan climbs, 1922–2009 (based on surveys in Wild magazine) Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments 1922 Mt Everest George Finch, member Unsuccessful . Finch First serious attempt (8850 m) of 11-man British and Geoffrey Bruce on Mt Everest . N Ridge/Face, expedition reached 8350 m using Australian Finch Tibet supplementary oxygen . climbed higher than any other human had previously climbed . Finch proved that supplementary oxygen could definitely benefit climbers . 1957 Exploratory Geoffrey Bratt and Explored in Siachen Exploratory trip expedition, Grahame Budd, Glacier area . Climbed mounted by Karakoram, members of eight-man Towitz Peak (6400 m) Imperial College Pakistan British expedition led and Island Peak Mountaineering by Eric Shipton (6860 m). Club . 1960 K12 (7470 m) Jon Stephenson, Unsuccessful . Stephenson first NW Ridge, member of four-man Stephenson climbed Australian to climb Karakoram, British expedition with porter to 6640 m to 7000 m without Pakistan and solo to 7000 m . supplementary oxygen . 1963 Langtang II Peter Taylor Successful . Climbed Sometimes cited (6583 m) E Face, with four Sherpas . as first Australian Central Nepal Probably shortest-ever expedition to Himalayan expedition . Himalaya; however, Four days from road to Taylor was an base camp; five days itinerant British to climb mountain . geologist stationed in Australia for a few years . 1975 Jannu (7710 m) Geoff Wayatt, Unsuccessful . High Wayatt first N Face, Eastern member of 12-man point reached: 7360 m . Australian on Nepal New Zealand ‘modern’ expedition . expedition led by He and Jim Strang Peter Farrell overcame major obstacle of route with bold, alpine- style assault . 535 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Mulkila IV Michel Altermann Unsuccessful . Reached First truly Australian (6517 m) (France), Garry 6000 m . Six members expedition to the W Ridge, Lahoul, Ash, Adrian Blake, subsequently climbed Himalaya . Organised India Dorothy Brown, Mulkila V (5930 m). and led by Warwick Warwick Deacock, Deacock . Jim Dorrington, Harry Eldridge, Josephine Flood, Terri Jack (UK), Derek Lucas, Peter Morris, Michael Richards, John Ryder, Keith Seddon, John Wanless 1976 Bethartoli John Attkinson, Peter Successful . South (6318 m) Marsh, Bob Ryan, Gangotri, India Kevin Westren 1977 Changabang Charlie Cuthbertson, Unsuccessful . First of many (6864 m) E Ridge, Andy Henderson, Henderson, Hendy Australian attempts Garhwal, India Martin Hendy, Garry and Noble climbed to on this striking and Matthew, Malcolm within 50 vertical m difficult mountain. Noble of summit . Stopped by bad weather . Khumbu trekking Geoff Batten, Mike Successful . First Australian peaks Eastern Douglas, Fergus ascent of popular Nepal Fitzgerald, Greg trekking peak Imja Hodge, Phil Robinson, Tse (Island Peak; Mendelt Tillema 6189 m) and of Parchamo (6187 m). 1978 Dunagiri (7066 m) John Armstrong, Ken Successful. Macartney- Most significant SW Ridge, Baldwin, Ken Bell, Andy Snape reached summit; of early Australian Garhwal, India Blakers, Andrew Bond, Hall stopped 200 m expeditions . First Keith Burns, Peter short . Epic descent Australian ascent Cocker, John Finnigan, through electrical storm . of 7000 m peak . Lincoln Hall, Theo Hall suffered frostbite. Launched careers Hooy, Tim Macartney- Cocker organised of Tim Macartney- Snape, Charlie Massy, helicopter rescue of Hall Snape and Mark Podkolinski, from Col Camp . Lincoln Hall . Ben Sandilands, Martin Stone 1979 Dharamsura Peter Allen, Max Successful . All but Berry First Australian (White Sail, Berry, Ed Neve, Mike reached summit . ascent . Alpine style . 6445 m) Rheinberger, Andrew SW Ridge, Kulu, Rothfield, Gary Wills India Angdu Ri Mike Rheinberger, Successful . Both (5954 m) Andrew Rothfield reached summit . NE Ridge, Kulu, India Ali Ratna Tibba Phil Cullen, Lincoln Successful . Hall and First Australian (5750 m) SW Hall, Tim Macartney- Macartney-Snape ascent . Alpine style . Ridge, Kulu, India Snape reached summit . They also climbed Geru (5100 m). 536 APPENDIX Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments 1980 Dhaulagiri I Lynne Griffith, member Unsuccessful . High On first trip to (8167 m) of US women’s point reached: 6500 m . Himalayas, Lynne NW Ridge, expedition led by Vera Expedition abandoned Griffith killed when Central Nepal Komarkova when Griffith killed in avalanche swept avalanche . Camp II . Annapurna III Geof Bartram, Adrian Unsuccessful . High Worst Australian (7555 m) N Face, Blake, Ken Bowes, point reached: 5000 m . tragedy ever Central Nepal Jonathan Chester, Expedition abandoned in Himalaya; Steve Colman, when Morse, Reeves compounded when Warwick Deacock, and Schmidt killed in Faye Kerr died of Brian Fearnley (NZ), avalanche . stomach problems Jack Higgs, Ray in India after Johnston, Faye Kerr, expedition . Steve McDowell, Colin Monteath (NZ), Stafford Morse, Nick Reeves, Richard Schmidt Gauri Shankar Chris Bennett, Graham Unsuccessful . High First Himalayan (7146 m) Brammer, Wayne point reached: expedition of Army SE Ridge, Carroll, Pat Cullinan, subsidiary summit Alpine Association Eastern Nepal Mick Hardless, Tseringma (6333 m). (AAA). First ascent Val Lishman, Jim of Tseringma . MacDonald, John Remynse, Paul Richards, Barry Young Changabang Peter Allen, Paul Successful . Anderson, First Australian (6864 m) E Ridge, Anderson, Max Berry, Rheinberger and ascent . Achievement Garhwal, India John Dunlop, Tim Rothfield reached marred by death of Hughes, Pat Miller, summit . Tim Hughes in fall in Malcolm Noble, Mike Rishi Gorge on walk Rheinberger, Andrew out . Rothfield 1981 Shivling (6543 m) Greg Child and Rick Successful . Georges First ascent of E Pillar, Gangotri, White, members of Bettembourg, Child, E Pillar of Shivling . India international expedition Scott and White First Himalayan led by Doug Scott reached summit after success for Greg 13-day alpine-style Child . push . Ganesh IV Brian Agnew, John Unsuccessful . High Second AAA (7102 m) Cashman, Roy point reached: 5800 m . expedition to S Face/E Ridge, McDonald, Rob Expedition abandoned Himalaya . Central Nepal Phillpot, Phil Pitham, when Sloane was killed Fritz Schaumburg, by avalanche that swept Dave Simpson, Dave Camp II . Sloane, Jim Truscott, Zac Zaharias Ama Dablam Hooman Aprin (USA), Successful . Hall, First Australian (6854 m) Lincoln Hall, Andy Henderson and ascent . N Ridge, Eastern Henderson, Damien Macartney-Snape Nepal Jones, Tim Macartney- reached summit . Snape, Ken McMahon, Dave Pluth (USA) 537 HIMALAYAN DREAMING Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Anyemaqen Geof Bartram, Lincoln Successful . Bartram, First Australian (6282 m) E Face, Hall, Andy Henderson, Hall, Henderson and ascent . Kunlun, Central Tim Macartney-Snape, Macartney-Snape China Charlie Massy climbed E Peak (6152 m); Hall and Macartney-Snape traversed to main summit . Yalung Kang Cherie Bremer-Kamp, Unsuccessful . High Bremer-Kamp had (8505 m) N Face, Chris Chandler (USA) point reached: 7800 m . been on earlier Eastern Nepal US expeditions to Dhaulagiri and K2 . 1982 Changabang Roddy Mackenzie, Successful . All four Second ascent of (6864 m) Mark Moorhead, Jon climbers reached route; first in alpine SW Pillar, Muir, Craig Nottle summit . style. Very difficult Garhwal, India climb technically; all four climbers on their first Himalayan trip. Lhotse (8516 m) Adrian Burgess (UK), Unsuccessful . High From first Australian N Ridge, Eastern Fred From, Peter point reached: 8250 m . to climb more than Nepal Hillary (NZ), Paul 8000 m without Moores (UK) supplementary oxygen . Trisul (7120 m) Geof Bartram, John Unsuccessful . High First guided Garhwal, India Coulton, Mike Groom, point reached: 6800 m . Australian climb in Lincoln Hall, Tim Stopped by sustained, Himalaya . Bartram, Macartney-Snape and violent storm . Hall and Macartney- four US climbers Snape were guides . Nanda Devi Keith Egerton, Hugh Unsuccessful . High Expedition plagued (7816 m) Foxcroft, Tom Millar, point reached: 7400 by illness and SE Ridge, Ed Neve, Mike m, by Rheinberger accidents . Neve and Garhwal, India Rheinberger, Gary Wills and Wills . Stopped by Millar evacuated by storm . helicopter . East Kulu John Burrow, Nick Successful . Climbed First Australian expedition Kulu, Groves (UK), John a number of peaks: ascents . India Marshall, Brett Ryan, Corner Peak (6140 m); Terry Ryan Kulu Makalu (5882 m); Tiger Tooth (5980 m); The Dome (5880 m); Shigri Parbat (6640 m). Peak 29 (Dakura, Brian Agnew, member Unsuccessful . High Expedition plagued 7837 m) S Ridge, of large British Army point reached: 6000 m . by problems Central Nepal expedition including: gear lost in transit, wrong approach to mountain, dispute with local villagers on trek in and horrific snow conditions on 8 km-long ridge. Kwangde Shar Mick Chapman, Colin Successful . First Australian (6093 m) Eastern Pont ascent . Nepal 538 APPENDIX Year Peak, route Party members Outcome Comments Mera Peak Stephen Bunton, Tim Successful . Also First Australian (6476 m) N Face Carroll, Jeff Crass, Ivan climbed Nau Lekh ascents . (Glacier), Eastern Dessailly, Mike Myers, (6363 m). Nepal Peter Webber and one other climber Pisang Peak Bruce Fox, Ian Successful . First Australian (6091 m) Ravenscroft, Fritz ascent of this SW Face/Ridge, Schaumburg (guide), trekking peak north Central Nepal Enn Troopold and three of the Annapurna other clients Himal . 1983 Annapurna II Mike Groom, Lincoln Successful . Hall,