SAVILLS RETAIL OPEN

CENTRAL LONDON RETAIL | WINTER 2018/19

Introducing Nicola Kilner, CEO of Deciem THE HIGHS, THE GROWTH, AND HOW THE COMPANY IS MOVING FORWARD

The War Against Cotton A ROUND UP OF THE MOST SUSTAINABLE FASHION BRANDS

A day in Oslo FROM IMPRESSIVE CULTURE TO GREAT COFFEE, THE NORWEGIAN CAPITAL HAS IT ALL WHAT'S IN STORE

WHAT'S IN STORE? WELCOME

SAVILLS elcome to our fourth issue to bottle tops made into shoes! FASHION 08+ Recent deals of OPEN magazine, a Despite the bad press surrounding 04 10 WSavills produced bi-annual the retail world we are consistently The War against Cotton See all of our recent deals on magazine focusing on retail trends seeing retailers that are triumphing in Saving the world, one brand pages 08, 09, 17, 28, 29 & 42 in London and worldwide, giving this time of immense pressure, doing so at a time… Lauren Higgins reports you in-depth insight into what’s through consistent brand innovation. going on in the market right now. This is abundantly clear in ‘Collaborate This time around our cover star is or Die’ (p.30), an article about fashion NEIGHBOURHOOD FOCUS none other than Nicola Kilner, CEO of partnerships, which proves if you can one of the most disruptive beauty brands keep on top of trends you can make The Power of SW11 ever created. In this interview we delve your mark and even lead the pack. One of the most innovative retail behind the scenes to establish just how And that’s not all, this special edition and leisure destinations in the world Deciem has been so successful in such a also includes a National supplement, short amount of time. We even include proving it isn’t all about London. 14 RETAILER REVIEW our top picks of the brands' products, Flip the magazine over, turn it upside THE FUTURE OF RETAIL tried and tested here at Savills (p.37). down and voila! OPEN National, 18 Does Amazon Deliver? Legalise this? With our focus remaining firmly keeping you up to date with everything Tiffany Luckett reviews the retail on brands for this issue, we have an happening outside of the capital city. Could the future of retail and giant’s recent Fashion pop-up interview with the founder of Duke & Please do get in contact with us if you restaurants have a leafy green future? 20 Dexter, Archie Hewlett (p.24), as well have any questions or want to know as a 4-page spread headlined ‘The more about any of the articles featured. War against Cotton’ (p.4) highlighting We hope you enjoy this issue as some of the industry’s most popular much as us, it’s our favourite so far! sustainable brands and their pioneering Savills Central London EUROPEAN FOCUS products, from cotton imitation Retail & Leisure Team material made from wood and plants, A day in Oslo 24 The Norwegian capital has it RETAILER PROFILE 30 all. Here’s where to find it In Conversation with RETAIL TRENDS Collaborate or die Archie Hewlett In the fast-moving world of fashion it’s Founder of Duke & Dexter 38 all about finding the right partner BEAUTY 34 MY CITY Beauty rides London43 the K-wave into Tiffany Luckett China & beyond on life in London Explore the digital magazine at: savills.co.uk/OPENwinter2018/19 The Korean cosmetic 40 THE FUTURE OF RETAIL BEAUTY and skincare industry is preparing to Ox cheek & bone marrow WEBSITE: SAVILLS.CO.UK/RETAIL The Ultimate Disruptor SAVILLS SOCIAL MEDIA: @SAVILLS expand and diversify in Coal Drops Yard ON THE COVER: NICOLA KILNER, CEO, DECIEM Nicola Kilner on the future of beyond asia. Benji Ashe gets his freekeh on at The team DESIGNED AND PRODUCED BY: SAVILLS COMMERCIAL MARKETING the Deciem brand Coal Office Restaurant Get in touch44 with us

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cottonSAVING THE WORLD, ONE BRAND AT A TIME… LAUREN HIGGINS REPORTS

he long-term effects of plastic on the LEFT: The Reformation's cashmere boyfriend sweater environment have been widely publicised TOP: Ninety Percent's ribbed-knit contrast-trim dress. Tfor some time, and rightly so. The same, BELOW TOP: Know the Origin's Organic cotton farm however, cannot be said for the cotton industry. Awareness of the industry’s damaging effects on the successful businesses while ‘doing their The brand has attracted an A-list sustainability of its practices, with a environment has only recently come to the forefront bit’ at the same time. following with the likes of Rihanna, focus on continually improving its future of public debate. Emily Ratajkowski and Karlie Kloss collections. A body of evidence has labelled the fashion Reformation endorsing their clothing, influencing industry as one of the biggest polluters on the planet, millions online and in their physical Know The Origin and is claimed to be the second biggest polluter after Yael Aflalo, the LA-based designer, stores globally. It is safe to say the oil industry. Documentaries such as "Stacey founded Reformation in 2009, with a One of the more affordable eco-brands, Reformation is well on its way to Dooley Investigates: Fashion’s Dirty Secrets" are mission to build a stylish brand with a Know The Origin, manufactures its giving the public an eye-watering account of the green footprint. All clothing is produced achieving its mission of ‘bringing clothing from organic cotton. This dramatic decline of clean freshwater; these have using fibres that feel almost identical sustainable fashion to everyone’. British brand was founded in 2015 by to cotton, but are made from renewable Cheshire-born Charlotte Instone with shocked viewers by demonstrating just how much Ninety Percent water is needed for the growing and manufacturing wood and plant materials, as well as the aim of transforming the fashion of cotton to serve the demands of the fashion reusing clothing and fabric waste. A contemporary London-based brand industry, ensuring full transparency industry today. Reformation not only manufactures which launched in 2018, Ninety Percent from seed to sale. Clothing is produced Clothes might be cheaper than ever, but our planet more sustainably, but also invests has an ethos of sharing 90 per cent of using traditional farming techniques is paying the price. So, how are retailers taking in programmes which replenish the its profits between charitable causes, with no toxic chemicals. This process is responsibility in limiting their impact? resources it has spent, such as restoring with the consumer choosing where this significantly less water intensive, with The ever-growing consumer appetite for ‘guilt-free freshwater to declining rivers. All of this money goes. Some of its collections are 70-80 per cent of this organic cotton clothing’ has sparked a huge surge in eco-fashion is tracked on the company’s ‘RefScale’ made from organic cotton, however being globally rainfed. The brand uses start-ups. More and more retailers are finally which enables the consumer to see just the majority are made from Tencel®, a traceable fabrics, meaning the consumer beginning to sit up and listen. Here, I would love to how green an item of clothing is, both in renewable wood material. The company can trace where the material has been share a few of my favourite brands who have built store and online. is investing hugely into developing the sourced, right down to the plantation.

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Allbirds This exciting new American footwear brand has completely moved away from the traditional canvas and produces its shoes using purely Merino sheep wool - using 60 per cent less energy. Its love for mother nature does not end there – it prides itself on its highly sustainable manufacturing process, which focusses on producing, for example, its own laces from recycled plastic bottles, using Castor bean oil in its insoles, creating eyelets from micro-organisms, manufacturing shoe soles using sustainable sugar cane and finally, packaging its shoes in 90 per cent recycled cardboard. Intrigued? Go visit its debut UK store at 123 Long Acre, Covent Garden, London.

But how are the fashion giants helping fight the fight?

The trailblazers of the fast fashion industry are quickly becoming the talk of the town amongst environmentalists, TOP LEFT: Allbirds, Covent Garden store the media and the consumer. The rate of clothing production CENTRE: Organic cotton, Know the Origin has never been higher, and there is no hiding from the fact BELOW: Levi's. TOP RIGHT: Ninety Percent, Extra-fine merino stripe-sleeve sweater that the fast fashion industry is having a detrimental impact on the environment. It is hard to ignore this impact when faced with the knowledge that up to 1,800 gallons of water go into the Levi Strauss cotton (C&A is the first), which production of just one pair of jeans – over 11 years of uses 90 per cent less water and 60 With denim production being drinking water for one person. per cent less energy than normal amongst the biggest culprits of the However, this is changing. Fast fashion giants are cotton. It cooperates with key global cotton industry, Levis acknowledges beginning to take responsibility for their impact in the initiatives promoting sustainable that it is a US$5 billion company face of growing consumer awareness. This, in turn, practice, including Textile Exchange based on selling cotton clothing. It is encouraging innovation and investment into new and the Better Cotton Initiative. It too spoke out at the Copenhagen technologies which will have a profound impact upon the is also a founding member of the Fashion Summit in 2018, with the future of clothing production. Organic Cotton Accelerator initiative aim of ‘slowing down fast fashion’ Stella McCartney has long been hailed the ‘Queen of and collaborate with sustainable and sharing its aspiration to be Sustainable Fashion’, leading the movement of ‘fashion with promotes manufacturers and brands who use sustainable manufacturers such as Lenzing – a catalyst for change. It is also a conscience’. In the words of the Global Fashion Agenda, business practices. The range has a sales target to reach look out for its Join Life Collection. investing in developing a solution ‘sustainability is no longer just a trend, it is a business £30 million by 2020. As a member of the Better Cotton Many of the fashion giants have into circular fashion with zero water imperative’, and the fashion giants of the modern day are Initiative, ASOS also pledges to use 100 per cent sustainable set their sights on reaching green impact. beginning to follow suit. cotton in its ranges by 2025. goals by 2020-2030 and only time Many of the big names, including John Lewis, Inditex, Inditex Group (includes Zara, will tell if these intentions will be ASOS, Bestseller, Levi Strauss and New Look, to name H&M Bershka and Stradivarius, to realised. It is important to remember just a few, are members of the ‘Better Cotton Initiative’. Already evident in its Conscious clothing line, H&M name a few) the consumer holds the power to This strives to aid farmers in producing cotton in a more acknowledges the challenge it faces in clothing production. control retailer trends through their sustainable way, and an increasing number of retailers are Inditex claims to be leading the Anna Gedda, Head of Sustainability at H&M, took to the spending habits. A shift to greener making ambitious commitments to sustainably change the industry towards a toxic-free future, stage at the Copenhagen Fashion Summit in 2018 to pledge retailing and responsible innovation life cycles of their products: and is continually investing in its goal of using 100 per cent sustainable materials by 2030 is becoming an increasingly innovative solutions to lessen its and 100 per cent sustainably sourced cotton by 2020. It is important business driver and I am ASOS impact on the environment. Amongst also striving to minimise the amount of fabric discarded in hopeful that we will begin to see its core commitments, it is aiming ASOS made a commitment at the Copenhagen Fashion landfill and now recycles your old clothing and( even towels more exciting solutions to fight the to reduce the amount of water Summit in 2017 to accelerate the circular fashion movement. and sheets), from any brand, in any condition. You can do war on cotton in the near future. required for the manufacturing This is an exciting and innovative concept which means this in its stores all over the world – just ask for a garment Watch this space. of its products, and is working that the end product is completely recycled and repurposed collection box (usually by the tills) and you’ll be rewarded  Please contact Lauren Higgins towards achieving zero discharge of into a new item of clothing. It has a Sustainable Sourcing for your green deeds with a voucher. The same applies to for more information. hazardous chemicals by 2020 (the Programme with a team dedicated to ensuring the brand is other H&M Group stores, including & Other Stories and ZDCH Initiative). It is the world’s being more sustainable throughout the entire product life Monki, and so far the group has collected the equivalent of fourth biggest consumer of organic cycle. The Eco Edit range was also launched in 2010 and 89 million t-shirts.

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Chez Antoinette set to open Fitzrovia heats up with at Buckingham Green the arrival of Roast Another outpost for the renowned French restaurant, originally based in Covent Garden. The restaurant was inspired by the Roast, the Borough Market favourite, have been owner’s (Aurelia Delclos) grandmother Antoinette, who served threatening to open up new outposts for some time. the best and tastiest French cuisine to her granddaughter. The Where better a place to land than a few minutes’ restaurant is taking an outpost in the new London and Oriental walk from the Savills office on Great Portland residential scheme, Buckingham Green, located in the middle of Street. The site will be 3,800 sq ft in total and Victoria and St James’ Park.  Please contact Benji Ashe for more will serve the traditional British cooking they are information. famous for.  Please contact Benji Ashe for more information.

Chef Guirong Wei to open chinese restaurant Master Wei in Bloomsbury

Master Wei has secured it's first site in WC1. The Chinese restaurant, from the chef behind Highbury’s Xi’an Impression, Guirong Wei. Guirong co-owns Xi’an Impression with her husband. The new site on Cosmo Place was previously occupied by one of London’s oldest restaurants, Cagney’s. The brand is still on the lookout for more sites.  Please contact Billy Wright for more information.

Corbin and King to open high quality Boggi Milano, moves into the seafood restaurant Aubette Shopping Arcade, in Soho Strasbourg Boggi Milano, a contemporary men's fashion brand have taken c.2,000 sq ft on Place Kleber, Leading luxury operators Corbin & King will open the central square in Strasbourg, France. This another restaurant in Soho, just off Soho Square. area is the perfect mix of luxury and trendy The restaurant will encompass 1-8 Bateman’s with the likes of Louis Vuitton and Hermès Buildings, as well at 55 Greek Street. Plans are sitting alongside & Other stories, Bash and currently with Westminster for approval, but the Maje. idea is to create one restaurant over 3 floors. The With over 140 stores in more than 31 countries, restaurant will consist of 241 covers, as well as the brand continues to speed up its expansion, 44 extra covers on an outdoor terrace.  Please especially in France.  Please contact Carlotta contact Oliver Green or Benji Ashe for more Matteja for more information information. EUROPEAN EUROPEAN DEAL

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the POWER of SW11

THE BATTERSEA POWER STATION REDEVELOPMENT WILL BE ONE OF THE MOST INNOVATIVE RETAIL AND LEISURE DESTINATIONS IN THE WORLD

esigned by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, Battersea Power Station was once the D most efficient power stations of its day, producing 20 per cent of London’s electricity supply. It was decommissioned in 1983 and despite a number of plans to regenerate the site in the 80s and 90s, it remained undeveloped. All that changed in 2013 when a £9 billion project got underway to transform Battersea Power Station MAIN: View of Battersea Power Station RIGHT: Turbine Hall A and the surrounding area into one of the most innovative mixed-use neighbourhoods in the world. Today, not only is this Grade II* listed landmark being restored to its former glory, but the 42-acre site is set to become one of Britain’s most exciting retail and leisure destinations, offering the best of British and international brands.

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Once completed, Battersea Power Japanese ramen restaurant Tonkotsu, a permanent location of the Battersea Station will become a new and thriving London’s leading seafood restaurant Academy of Skills and Excellence (BASE), destination on the banks of the River Wright Brothers, Francesco Mazzei’s an initiative focused on training and Thames that will house a carefully Fiume, Tapas Brindisa and super-cool placing local people into end-users jobs curated collection of some of the world’s Copenhagen pizza restaurant Mother. including hospitality. Pop-up spaces and most interesting and eclectic brands. Other outlets at Circus West Village Santander Cycles are currently located As Battersea Power Station – which has a river front permanently under Grosvenor Arch, fronted by a Development Company’s Head of Retail accessible to the public, as well as access vibrant art installation by award-winning Leasing Sam Cotton says: to the MBNA Thames Clippers Service – artist Morag Myerscough. The first phase of the development is include The CoffeeWorks Project, voted Next to complete at the development Circus West Village, which was completed one of London’s Top 30 coffee shops will be Phase 2, comprising the iconic in 2016. Designed by SimpsonHaugh & by the London Coffee Guide; urban Power Station and its two turbine halls. Partners and de Rijke Marsh Morgan winery Vagabond Wines, which offers The halls were built in very different eras (dRMM), the building is located on the 100 wines by the glass from independent – Turbine Hall A hails from the art-deco western side of the Power Station and winemakers around the world; The 30's while Turbine Hall B was completed is already home to over 1,000 residents Battersea General Store, where you can in the 50's and has more of a brutalist/ as well as 23 independent shops and buy everything from Spanish crisps to industrial feel – and the retail offering restaurants, including Cinnamon Kitchen, Japanese whisky as well as local artisan of both halls will reflect their different LEFT: Paul Edmonds, Circus beer, wine, cheese and more; micro- surroundings. West Village. ABOVE: Wright brewery Battersea Brewery and No 29 Says Sam Cotton: The two turbine Brothers, Circus West Village. Power Station West, Circus West Village’s halls will have a very different look RIGHT: Mother, Circus West Village own pub. and feel and will house a vast array of “Once completed, Battersea Top hair salon Paul Edmonds, luxury carefully curated brands from around florist Moyses Stevens and independent the world in just over 100 units. Turbine Power Station will become a cinema Archlight have all recently opened Hall A will be home to the Premium their doors. 16 railway arches are being Collection – brands that portray elegance, new and thriving destination renovated as part of Circus West Village sophistication and timeless style. Turbine on the banks of the River to create a pedestrianised thoroughfare Hall B has a sparer aesthetic and brings of cafés, shops, a cinema and a cultural together contemporary brands, providing Thames. and community venue as well as being an eclectic mix of younger, faster and more diverse names. There has already been keen interest from South Korean and Japanese brands, as well as those from the rest of Asia, UK and the US. ‘The response we have had “The two turbine halls will from businesses has been incredible – brands really get it,’ says Sam Cotton. ‘It’s have a very different look essential to balance the big well-known brands with the start-ups from the UK and feel and will house and around the world. Apple has already Phase 3, Electric Boulevard, will be the pre-let 500,000 sq ft of office space development’s new ‘High Street’ linking the a vast array of carefully within the Power Station as their new new Northern Line Extension to the Power curated brands from around London Campus, which they will move Station and the rest of the development. into in 2021.’ When fully open, Battersea Power Station the world in just over 100 Connecting the two halls will be a will be a place for visitors to not just do 18,500 sq ft food hall which will showcase their shopping, says Sam Cotton but a place units. the very best of London’s food scene, to eat at one of the many fantastic bars, including restaurant start-ups, new enjoy the new park being created, have a concepts and international cuisines. coffee overlooking the River Thames or soak ‘The Power Station will be a new food up the culture of the instantly recognisable destination for London,’ says Sam building with tons of heritage.  Please Cotton. ‘We now know this is going to contact Sam Cotton [email protected], be a destination that will attract food Head of Retail Leasing, Battersea Power connoisseurs.’ Station for further information

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BELOW: Source, BusinessInsider.com

CBD – WHAT IS IT? THC – WHAT IS IT? LEGALITY - CBD stands for Cannabidiol. - THC stands for - 20 states in the US plus This is a cannabis compound tetrahydrocannabinol. This is Washington D.C. have passed with significant medical benefits. the main psychoactive compound cannabis-related laws, making It has no effects on the psyche in marijuana. THC produces the medical marijuana with high but can actually counteract the high or sense of euphoria that you levels of THC legal. In most psycho-activity effects of THC. associate with smoking cannabis. states, the cannabis must - It can help with pain relief - THC has been used to help with be prescribed by a licensed and with a variety of medical pain, muscle spasticity, glaucoma, physician. conditions including relief from; insomnia, low appetite, nausea - 9 states have made recreational inflammation, chronic pain, and anxiety. use of marijuana and THC legal. anxiety, depression, PTSD, - THC has been linked to long- - All forms of cannabis are still epilepsy, antibiotic resistant term negative psychiatric effects, illegal in US states that haven’t LEGALISE infections and schizophrenia. especially when consumed in legalised it. large amounts during teenage - Canada has also legalised the use COULD THE FUTURE OF RETAIL AND years. of marijuana. RESTAURANTS HAVE A LEAFY GREEN FUTURE? IT IS ALREADY LEGAL IN THE UK TO SELL PRODUCTS MADE this? FROM CANNABIS DERIVATIVES. WILL ou might not have realised it, but oils and tinctures, providing consumers with cannabis derivatives may already be a totally different experience to the cannabis THE LEGALISATION OF CANNABIS Y on sale in your gym, your local coffee cafes typically associated with cannabis. shop or even your local health food store. BE NEXT? AND IF SO, WHAT Cannabidiol, or CBD can now be legally 3) Bamford and Daylesford (Brompton MIGHT IT MEAN FOR RETAIL AND sold in the UK and although businesses are Cross and various other locations) RESTAURANTS? not allowed to claim it has health benefits, The organic Cotswold farming brand there is growing evidence to suggest it may Daylesford, which has its own skincare brand have. Indeed, medical cannabis oil has been and spa based in London’s Brompton Cross, is available by doctor’s prescription in England, now selling a ‘herbal tea’ infused with hemp. Scotland and Wales since the beginning of The tea is marketed as a night-time organic November 2018. The change in the law is infusion to aid sleep, with valerian root, already affecting the retail and restaurant passion flowers and hemp leaves which are industry, with some of the most forward- advertised as ‘anti-inflammatory, reduces pain thinking brands getting on top of the trend. and anxiety’. Holland & Barrett was the first retailer to stock CBD oil in the UK, selling an oil 4) By Chloe (Covent Garden and Tower Hill) containing 5% CBD. The vegan only restaurant chain from the US The following retailers, gyms, bars and which opened its first UK outpost last year restaurants are offering CBD products; in Covent Garden, now sells ‘weed brownies’. Made with CBD oil to help with anxiety and 1) Frame Fitness (Fitzrovia, Hammersmith pain relief, the brownies are decorated with a and various other locations) fondant marijuana leaf. With 7 large studios across London, with classes ranging from yoga to reformer Pilates, 5) Holland Barrett (various UK locations) Frame now offers CBD oil as an additive in If you aren’t London based but fancy topping their healthy smoothies. up your CBD levels, Holland and Barrett stock various brands of CBD oil. The retailer 2) LDN CBD (Camden) claims that sales of its CBD products have Claiming to be London’s first CBD boutique, been growing exponentially since their launch the shop offers a range of different products at the beginning of 2018. containing CBD oil, ranging from skincare to

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What about cannabis? The sale of cannabis has now been legalised in Canada and many US states for medical, as well as Pandora sparkles in Madrid recreational purposes. In the US, cannabis is now a $12 billion a year industry and it’s estimated that Pandora, the prestigious Danish jewellery this will reach $75 billion by 2030. So where does company, has opened its flagship store in the Salamanca district, the luxury hub in Madrid. that leave the UK? The new store is 1,300 sq ft over 2 floors and is William Hague recently commented in the Daily located at Serrano 46. Telegraph that the war on cannabis had been ‘comprehensively and irreversibly lost’ and called Pandora are present in over 100 countries worldwide and have more than 60 stores and on the Government to legalise it. In October 2018 concessions in department stores in Spain. former Met Police Chief Bernard Hogan-Howe said the law on cannabis needed an urgent review. Savills Aguirre Newman has been involved in However, many government officials were quick to Pandora's acquisitions in Zaragoza and San  refute these claims so it remains unclear whether Sebastián. Please contact Carlotta Matteja for more information this will happen in the next 24 months in the UK. Nevertheless, it’s certainly something that pharmaceutical companies are planning for, and perhaps retailers should be too. In Canada, just EUROPEAN DEAL two days after legalisation of the drug, there were claims that the country was ‘running out of marijuana stock’, so if it does become legal here, Old Spitalfields Market: being prepared is going to be very important.  Please contact Tiffany Luckett for more information. & Other Stories open Foster & Partner's designed store

& Other Stories opened its doors to a brand new 8,000 sq ft flagship in Spitalfields in November, just in time for Christmas trade. The store is the sixth Central London outpost and features a glass orangery, a new feature curated by architects Foster & Partners.

“In Canada, just two Harrys of London step days after legalisation into former Bobbi of the drug, there were claims that the Brown store country was ‘running out Harrys of London are replacing Bobbi Brown at of marijuana stock'. Spitalfields Market. Harrys opened in January 2019 with the store becoming its second home in London. The brand specialises in men’s contemporary British footwear, selling sneakers, loafers, boots and slippers. In addition, the brand also currently has a pop-up in LEFT & ABOVE: FEELZ a CBD the Ham Yard Hotel for anyone in the Soho area. infused range from, By CHLOE  Please contact Tiffany Luckett for more information.

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Throughout the week, shoppers could purchase items by scanning the products’ ‘Smile Codes’, Pop-up: creating a virtual basket on the Amazon app which could be checked out once they had finished shopping. For those without the app there were Amazon Fire tablets placed around the store DOES enabling shoppers to view the entire Amazon fashion range and complete their orders online. While purchases could still be made in store, the app enabled shoppers to have their items delivered to their home in the standard Amazon Prime time AMAZON frame. DELIVER? TIFFANY LUCKETT REVIEWS THE RETAIL GIANT’S RECENT FASHION POP-UP.

he online retail giant made a cautious entry into the physical T retail market at the end of October 2018 with a pop-up store on Baker Street. The store was a showcase for Amazon Fashion and featured brands such as Tommy Hilfiger and Susan Saideman, Vice President of LOVE Moschino interspersed with Amazon Fashion Europe, commented: Amazon’s in-house clothing lines, including Meraki and Truth & Fable. The pop-up offered a different experience ABOVE & LEFT: Interior & each day and focused on fashion, health exterior, Amazon pop-up and beauty with influencers and special “We are extremely excited to be store. FAR LEFT: Amazon events drawing in the crowds. On the 'Smile Codes'. OPPOSITE: Tuesday and Wednesday it showcased an Reshma, Lead dietitian opening our first ever UK pop-up from Louise Parker Autumn trend edit of both menswear and womenswear. The Pepe Jeans team was store for fashion. We have curated on hand to help shoppers customise their a selection of top brands and key purchases and there was an evening DJ performance by Charlotte de Carle. fashion items, which we think our On the Thursday, stock was refreshed Despite occupying a sub ‘prime’ establishment of the Amazon Go and the attention turned to fitness and customers will love, all of which pitch on Baker Street, the pop-up concept in the US will act as a good wellbeing, with yoga classes from Ella Mills can be purchased virtually through store was busy, attracting most foundation for Amazon’s expansion (Deliciously Ella) and diet and lifestyle shoppers during the scheduled in the physical retail environment. advice courtesy of Reshma, a lead dietitian the Amazon app or physically in events; the yoga sessions proved In the future, technology will act to from Louise Parker. particularly popular. Given complement traditional retail and On the Friday and Saturday the stock store. With the ongoing schedule of Amazon’s tech supremacy, the create an omni-channel experience changed again to feature ‘party and activities taking place throughout online retailing giant is well for consumers. Amazon will likely streetwear’ trend edits and there were more positioned to roll out physical retail be at the forefront of this evolution. sound sessions from Tom Grennan, NAO, the week, we hope our pop- innovations including VR fitting  Please contact Tiffany Luckett for Arielle Free and Charlotte de Carle. rooms or the Internet of Things to more information. up shop will be an exciting and enable products to communicate inspiring way to shop for fashion. with shoppers and inventory suppliers for example. The

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FROM NORDIC BRANDS TO INTERNATIONAL DESIGNERS; FROM IMPRESSIVE CULTURE TO GREAT COFFEE – THE NORWEGIAN CAPITAL HAS IT ALL. LARS SIMEN PAULGAARD INTRODUCES THE HOTSPOTS.

as well as Scandinavian designs such slo has been hailed The Queen as Ganni, Samsøe Samsøe, Acne, Ulla of Nordic Cool by National Morning Johnson, Tiger of Sweden, FWSS, and O Geographic and The New at the seafront many more. The modern shopping street Capital of Scandi Cool by Conde Nast Jenny Hemstads gate offers exclusive A DAY IN Traveller. It has some of the best luxury Let us start our day at Aker Brygge stores, from beauty to shoes. shopping in Scandinavia, a vibrant and Tjuvholmen, two modern seafront From Aker Brygge you can visit some cultural scene and an impressive array neighbourhoods bursting with shops, of Oslo’s biggest and most prestigious of new pioneering architecture. So bars, restaurants, a stunning art attractions by walking along the harbour it’s no wonder that Norway’s capital museum and exciting private art promenade which stretches all the city is such a popular destination galleries. way to the Opera House and Sørenga. for shoppers, foodies and culture If you like a good breakfast you’ve Discover the Astrup Fearnley Museum, vultures from all over the world. come to the right place. Try the French a must for lovers of contemporary art Oslo is a compact city, offering pastries or a classic croque monsieur at and cutting-edge architecture, the City a blend of diverse and colourful Albert Bistro, or how about a Danish Hall, the Nobel Peace Center, Akershus neighbourhoods, fanned out around brunch with the tasty skagen toast at Fortress, Vippa Street food market, a relatively small centre. It has been Sorgenfri? If you prefer a coffee on the SALT (a nomadic art project with one of named European Green Capital 2019 go, stop by Håndverksbakeriet then take the world's largest saunas) and the Oslo and you will be amazed how much a seat on one of the seafront’s orange Opera House, designed by the multi- residents enjoy being part of the green benches and enjoy the view of the award-winning architect firm, Snøhetta. transformation, in how they move about, medieval fortress, Akershus Festning. While you’re at the Opera House, eat, live and enjoy life. Aker Brygge is a high-end shopping don’t miss the rooftop walk which arena that hosts international brands offers fantastic views of the angular such as Gant, Mark + Brandy and Aspeli, architecture arising from the waters of Oslo Oslo Fjord.

OPPOSITE: Aerial View of Oslo Sentrum ABOVE: Aker Brygge RIGHT: Sørenga Seawater Pool

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LEFT: Youngstorget an Afternoon stroll BELOW: Torggata You’ll find some of Oslo’s finest stores conveniently located on and around Karl Johans gate, the city’s main pedestrian street. At the end of Karl Johans gate is the Royal Palace, surrounded by the beautiful Palace Park. You might even spot a member of the royal family since the palace is still the official residence of the Norwegian monarch. A short walk from Karl Johans gate is Promenaden, Norway’s epicentre of luxury, fashion and lifestyle. This is where you’ll find the flagship stores of many international luxury brands such as Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Burberry, as well as contemporary brands such as Acne studios, A.P.C. and Isabel Marant, and multi- brand fashion department stores EGER Shopping Gallery and Steen & Strøm, which houses a notable food court and beauty department. A stone’s throw from the Royal Palace is the internationally acclaimed luxury department store Paleet. Paleet underwent a total renewal in

LEFT & BELOW: Louis Vuitton & shoppers 2013 and 2014 and has since been lauded gourmet’ head over to Youngtorget, half Kulturhuset, a famous local hangout and & in the Promenaden fashion district by the likes of Monocle, Wallpaper and way between Grünerløkka and the city recent architectural prize-winner, open FRAME magazines. The various stores centre, where Michelin-trained chefs from early morning until late at night. and fashion concepts at Paleet offer serve street food in simple, urban spaces. Kulturhuset is a catch-all cultural venue high-end fashion in clothes, shoes and that stages gigs, seminars, concerts, DJ accessories by national and international sessions, fairs and shuffleboard and is designers: Acne Studios, Polo Ralph also a great co-working space. If you’re Lauren, Nike, Adidas, Chanel, Enzo Poli, A fun evening a foodie, you must visit Oslo Street food. Giorgio Armani, Comme des Garcons, Located right in the center of Oslo, a Dior, Hugo Boss, Levi`s and Ray Ban are at Youngstorget former public bath has been transformed just some of the many brands you will into a foodies’ heaven. It contains of 17 find here. This old city square has found a new food stalls and 3 bars, serving food from For a more bohemian vibe, check out lease of life in recent years, with new around the world. As soon as you walk the urban area of Grünerløkka, along bars, clubs and venues springing up, in the atmosphere is electric, with a loud the east side of the Akerselva river, for extending along the nearby streets buzz around the place. Oslo Street Food great vintage boutiques, cafés, cocktail of Torggata and Møllergata. It’s is ideal for a group of people who can’t bars and pubs. Looking for something impossible to visit all the great places decide on one restaurant or simply on unique? Don’t miss Kollekted by, on Youngstorget in just one evening, but your own. Not only is there food on offer, Kuratert, Luck Oslo and EAM . some of the highlights are worth a look but bars serving alcohol and coffee too. Coffee plays an important part in such as a cocktail bar called Himkok. It's Check Facebook for the latest opening Oslo’s everyday life and a stop at Tim well hidden in a back street, behind a hours, but they tend to be from lunch to Wendelboe in Grunerløkka is a must nondescript door, under an unassuming late night, making it a great place to eat for all coffee enthusiasts. Wendelboe is lamp. But if you can track it down you during a busy day walking around Oslo. a multi-awarded barista who won the will find yourself in cocktail heaven. Oslo has become one of Scandinavia’s World Barista Championship in 2004. Himkok was ranked 19th in The hot spots for retail therapy, with both Now he has his own bar, micro roastery World’s 50 Best Bars Awards 2018. The local and international brands opening and training centre. name means ‘moonshine’ or ‘home brew’ over the last 15 years. But as you have A two-minute walk from Tim which is a reference to the bar’s own just discovered, the city has a lot more Wendelboe is Oslo's largest indoor distillery which produces aquavit, gin to offer than shopping, whether you’re food market, Vulkan Mathallen, with and vodka for use in the bar's signature into food and drinks, architecture or more than 30 specialty shops, cafés and cocktails. The drink menu embodies culture or simply want a break in the eateries, offering high-quality products the Norwegian food culture with its country that boasts some of the happiest from Norwegian small-scale producers traditional names and ingredients. people in the world.  Please contact as well as special imports. If you are After a delightful cocktail experience Laura Salisbury Jones or Lars Simen looking for what’s known as ‘trash at Himkok you can swing by Paulgaard for more information.

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In conversation with Archie Hewlett, founder of

MAIN IMAGE: Duke & Dexter Boot (Image source: Appear Here) CENTRE RIGHT: Duke & Dexter, Unicorn Shoe (Image source: Sam Gill) ABOVE: Duke & Dexter, Eccleston Yards, (Image source: Appear Here)

TIFFANY LUCKETT CAUGHT UP WITH DUKE & DEXTER different styles and designs, from there we created the actual brand. In 2016 FOUNDER ARCHIE HEWLETT TO LEARN MORE ABOUT HIS we moved all of our production to our BRAND AND NEW LOCATION AT ECCLESTON YARDS factory in Sheffield, which enables us to have a one-week turnaround on orders, which has been excellent for sales.

What were the initial challenges? n a pedestrianised enclave of Victoria attracted a range of occupiers, including The challenge was knowing how to get sits Eccleston Yards, a new mixed- Duke & Dexter, Barry’s Bootcamp, a product out to market. We had a very use hub for creative and independent I Re:Mind and The Jones Family Kitchen. limited budget for marketing and brand occupiers. This multi-functional promotion. We started with Instagram space offers an escape from the hustle and bustle of Victoria, providing How did Duke & Dexter come about? and the initial challenge was to figure both tenants and shoppers with a out if it would actually work as a Duke & Dexter is a premium men’s community-orientated destination. marketing tool. footwear brand which began with velvet Eccleston Yard has 19 units centred The biggest concern wasn’t whether slippers. The idea initially was more of a around a courtyard, dominated in one or not the product would sell, it was the corner by a portrait of Frida Kahlo. commercial play than a brand. I had quit bigger challenges of business – getting DUKE & DEXTER The yard has hosted events and art a job in recruitment and I was looking the right team behind me, scaling the exhibitions, including the Paradise Now for something I wanted to do, so I started business whilst also keeping costs down. installation which featured a pink mist sourcing velvet slippers and selling them. I would say that building a team and waterfall, outside yoga sessions and even Once I saw the idea was going to gain trying to do it sustainably has been the a croquet pitch. This unique enclave, traction, the issue I had was that I didn’t biggest challenge for us. We are now which is anchored by Central Working, really like the product I was selling. So around 24 people but in the beginning it a 500-person co-working space, has I rebuilt it and manufactured loafers in was just me.

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How do you use social media to Duke & Dexter now has the Original enabled people in the team who perhaps there is certainly an enjoyment factor market your product and grow the Loafer, Penny Loafer, Chukka and hadn’t had much customer interaction for him too. Read more about this in brand? Chelsea Boot. How did they come before to understand how the retail our Collaborations article on p.30. about? element works. There is also a good A big factor for us is that we can sense of community here, with Barry’s The Duke & Dexter brand has easily push the product and gain good The introduction of the new product and Central Working. Grosvenor hosts been established for two years. “An existing customer introduced traction organically. If you are trying lines was due to seasonal change and What do you hope to achieve events such as art installations which to sell something simple like, say, water customer demand for another product also encourage people to come down. We over the next two years? the brand to Snoop Dogg and it is very hard to do without a lot of which can be worn in winter. We have a great online presence and we have additional marketing and creative ideas. are a lifestyle brand as opposed to a We sell to 120 different countries; found that we have been able to draw there was an instant connection. But with our brand we gained a loyal fashion brand – we are not dictated to on average to 80 different countries people here, especially with our sample following early on and we have a lot of by trend and we do not try to follow per month, with New York being sales. great marketing material from our social trends: we build our brand on emotional our largest market. There is obviously a global appeal but the media interaction. connections with our clients and how What is in the pipeline for Duke & key is to be able to figure out how to We have found that capturing our the shoes make you feel. In October last Dexter? product in destinations around the world year, we felt that our brand was at the expand internationally without the or photographing free-runners wearing right stage to move into Chelsea boots. We recently announced a collaboration associated expense. The priority is them, for example, increases audience The Chelsea boots market is a much with Snoop Dogg in January 2019. An to work with the right retailers and interaction because it’s something more competitive market, with some key existing customer introduced the brand look more into collaborations. different. It gets us noticed on Instagram, players, so we really had to up our game. to Snoop Dogg and there was an instant which today is a very difficult arena to connection. He got in touch so we sent We won't use retail in the traditional get noticed in. What has been your favourite him a few pairs of shoes and started sense of planting a store and signing moment since launching the brand? engaging with his team. We were aware up to a lease, it will be around using Why name your company ‘Duke & that Snoop had been involved in paid dynamic pop-up concepts and working Opening our store in Seven Dials two Dexter’? partnerships, which isn’t something we in collaboration with different brands. years ago was very powerful. We have would do, but we were keen to establish We believe that the international Duke stands for ‘quality’. This relates to been lucky enough to work with some a genuine and organic partnership with expansion will be driven by the the high quality of the shoes, including amazing celebrities, but to have a retail him. We are co-designing a limited range strength of the brand and the British the attention to detail and the time presence was very special and was most of our classic loafers in three unique heritage, which really appeals to the which goes into making them. It also probably my proudest moment. We set styles with the possibility of having global customer base.  Please contact relates to the quality of service our up the store within a month of our first some extras included. I’m really excited Tiffany Luckett for more information. customers receive. Duke & Dexter shoes viewing and we developed a great space to be working with Snoop Dogg and are not a throwaway product, they are a to be able to interact with our clients. high-quality, long-term shoe. Dexter stands for ‘Fearlessness’. This Why did you choose Seven Dials? relates to the boldness of the product The main driver was that we wanted which people can relate to, but it is still credibility. Other brands had begun to underpinned by quality. copy us (both big names and smaller start-ups) and therefore the store would help to enhance our global presence and Duke & Dexter began with one our brand understanding. product. Would you recommend other start-ups do the same? We chose Seven Dials as Shaftesbury I am lucky enough to be involved with was very keen to work with us when we other brands now and that is exactly explained our concept of having a space what I recommend. It is so important to to host events and where clients could have an understanding of where you are come in for a coffee and a chat or to going, but you have to find an entry point bespoke their shoes. Shaftesbury is good into the market otherwise it is so easy at getting all the brands in the area to to get associated with another brands or work together. pigeon-holed. A perfect example is that if you come into the embroidered shoe You’ve now moved your HQ operation market, people will just identify you with to Eccleston Yards, why did you Gucci, so you have to find a distinction. choose this location and what do you We started off with velvet loafers and hope to achieve here? slippers but now have other product We really liked the idea of having such lines. Once you establish your niche you a central location from the perspective ABOVE: Internal store shot can then move into more competitive of our team: we wanted them to love (Image source: Appear Here) areas, but it is first essential to find a their job and where they work. We now OPPOSITE: Archie Hewlett (Image source: Appear Here) point of distinction. have the office above the store which has

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Happy Lamb springs up on Bloomsbury Way Luxury Family Affair, Walton Street, Brompton Cross A new Chinese restauranteur with 40 sites over the US and Canada have decided to take on the London market, opening its first restaurant in Holborn. The hot pot concept serves an Luxury Family Affair, a boutique retail unit, has opened its first assortment of broths, along with meats such as lamb, beef, outpost on South Kensington’s Walton Street. The store is run by chicken or meatballs to add to endless varieties of vegetables. German fashion designer Tilla Lindig and will sell both original  Please contact Benji Ashe for more information. pieces by the designer as well as some vintage pieces from brands such as Burberry.  Please contact Tiffany Luckett for more information. SAVILLS

Pannus bakery to open Bloch make the leap first UK site on Camden to Seven Dials DEALS High Street Bloch, the world famous creator of the pinnacle of dancer’s shoes and clothing, has moved premises taking a new site on A new bakery is coming to London from Spain where they Monmouth Street from landlord Shaftesbury. The brand had have 80 sites in Barcelona alone. The site has allowance for been previously located on Drury Lane for 10 years in the heart a restaurant but the concept of the chain is more grab and of theatreland but chose Seven Dials as their new home to go. The brand are still on the lookout for more sites. access more of their target audience whom they believe shop in  Please contact Benji Ashe for more information. the area.  Please contact James Fairley for more information.

Jewellery brand Polestar rev up roll out plans Lovisa set to shine

Taking 4,300 sq ft over 2 floors, Polestar, the standalone electric performance in Kensington company from Volvo Car group will be opening its first global retail space at Ovre Slottsgate 7 in Oslo, Norway. Polestar are Australian accessories brand Lovisa is due to looking to roll out this new retail concept open on Kensington High Street. The store fronts in Europe, China and the U.S. both the Kensington Arcade and the high street itself. The brand specialise in affordable jewellery Malling & Co (Savills Associate) advised Polestar on the deal.  Please contact and accessories and now have a number of stores Laura Salisbury Jones for more information countrywide.  Please contact James Fairley for more information. EUROPEAN EUROPEAN DEAL

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COLLABORATE OR DIE In the fast-moving world of fashion it’s all about finding the right partner – the more unlikely, the better.

MOVE FAST, EVOLVE, ime is money and in retail, Ralph Lauren and streetwear favourite money is now made through Palace? It's clear this may have had CHANGE, CREATE, OR T mutually beneficial partnerships something to do with it. DIE IS THE RULE OF which expedite creativity, experience, resources and elevate following. The key to collaboration RETAIL TODAY. BUT The most obvious example is the recent The collaboration arena isn’t all billion HOW CAN A RETAIL headline-grabbing collaboration between dollar companies collaborating with other Ralph Lauren and Palace. Ralph Lauren BRAND DO ANY billion dollar companies. It extends to has been one of the most successful luxury smaller companies using other companies to brands of recent times with an empire worth OF THIS WITHOUT create interest and/or give their brand the around US$12 billion at its height. However, extra services they don’t have the time to TAKING THE TIME fast forward to the competitive market of specialise in. 2017 and the company was reporting falling TO COME UP WITH Blow dry bar DryBy (which only has one sales figures and announcing the closure of SOLUTIONS? site) collaborated with cult beauty blogger some of its most famous stores, including its Alex Steinherr (who has also collaborated Fifth Avenue New York flagship, which, in with Primark, read more on page 08 of a demonstration of extreme cost cutting, it closed despite still paying the rent. the National Edition) in order to launch The reasons were obvious. Ralph Lauren's a specific nail collection in store. Emma preppy look was popular in the 1990s, Louise Connelly (model and fiancée of MIC’s but with competition fierce and fashions Oliver Proudlock), has recently collaborated evolving at a rapid pace due to social media with Nasty Gal (online fashion brand owned and the internet, Ralph Lauren seemed by Boohoo), releasing two huge collections to have been left behind. This led The that sold out almost immediately. Washington Post to pen an article entitled Celebrities are collaborating with brands ‘It’s 2018 Ralph Lauren. Why do you think left, right andcentre, with some surprising this look is still cool?’ partnerships surfacing such as Post Malone And yet Ralph Lauren is now reporting x Crocs. Everyone knows about Supreme increased revenue for Q2 2018, with a 2 x Louis Vuitton, but did you know about per cent rise from the previous quarter. Supreme x John Smedley? Or Supreme MAIN: Amiaya, H&M x Could the increase be due to the recent x Hardcore Hammers? Or Supreme x Moschino red carpet announcement of a collaboration between Budweiser?

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Our top 5 collaborations EVERYONE x H&M H&M has historically been one of the most famous Louis Vuitton x Supreme collaborators in the fashion world, bringing luxury fashion Why did Louis Vuitton need to do a collaboration to the masses at high street prices. It has now collaborated with one of the world’s coolest streetwear brands? with everyone from Balmain to Erdem to Alexander Wang The answer is quite certainly, it didn’t. In 2017, and most recently with Moschino. Its first collaboration was Louis Vuitton was at the top of its luxury game, with with Karl Lagerfeld back in 2004 and the rest is history. increasing sales and celebrity endorsements and still among the top five most luxurious brands in the world, if not the most luxurious brand in the world. But that’s not the point. Why settle at the top when The list of H&M collaborations you could reach higher heights? And nothing gives reads like a Who's Who of fashion: you more credit than an exclusive collection that sells out, despite a steaming price tag. In addition, Louis 2004 Karl Lagerfeld Vuitton is luxury and heritage, but how does it tap 2005 Stella McCartney into millennials, who are the future of luxury fashion? 2006 Viktor and Rolf Tap into a brand which boasts millennials as its core customers, of course. 2007 Roberto Cavalli Was it a success? A resounding yes. This 2008 Comme des Garcons collaboration is without a doubt the most highly famed and publicised luxury x streetwear collaboration, and 2009 Matthew Williamson perhaps the biggest collaboration ever. The re-sell 2009 Jimmy Choo websites also did rather well out of it: some of the 2010 Lanvin smaller pieces such as the card holder re-sold for a 199.8 per cent mark-up, going from $350 RRP to a 2011 Versace staggering $914, while on average, items were re-sold 2012 Marni with a mark-up of between 87 per cent and 150 per 2012 Maison Margiela cent. 2013 Isabel Marant 2014 Alexander Wang Crocs x Post Malone 2015 Balmain Post Malone – rapper dubbed the ‘Donald Trump’ of rap due to his hard-hitting views. Crocs – footwear 2016 Kenzo made from foam, formed in the shape of a clog shoe 2017 Erdem and worn by the middle-classes, most commonly under 2018 Moschino the age of five. A collaboration so un-cool it’s cool which sells out in one day.

Duke & Dexter x Snoop Dogg Ralph Lauren x Palace Duke & Dexter is a home-grown loafer brand founded by Archie Palace is a London-based skate brand. It was founded in Hewlett (read our interview with Archie on p.24). The brand is 2009 but didn’t start out with a huge investment. It started still in its infancy, but part of its success has been down to its out with a family of people who shared a common love for celebrity endorsements which have catapulted it onto the global skateboarding and their ‘skate crew’. The brand is original stage. ‘Our biggest market in terms of sales is actually in New and it encompasses the true, male, London fashion aesthetic. York, which is likely to be strongly correlated with the amount It’s modern, it’s realistic, it’s real. of US-based celebrities who are huge fans of our product,’ says Palace has maintained its originality through slow growth Archie. and interesting collaborations with the Tate Modern, Jonah Eddie Redmayne wore Duke & Dexter shoes when he won Hill and the ICA gallery. But never has it collaborated on ABOVE: Post Malone x Crocs an Oscar in 2015 for The Theory of Everything which boosted Dimitri Clog - Photo Business Wire such a scale as with Ralph Lauren, which begs the question, the brand’s reach worldwide; other celebrity fans include Ryan can this collaboration still maintain the brand’s originality? TOP RIGHT: H&M x Moschino front row Reynolds, Tinie Tempah and, surprisingly, Snoop Dogg. Snoop CENTRE: Snoop Dogg x Duke & Dexter (@archiehewlett) It’s clear from the lookbook that products are certainly has been a fan of the brand for some time with quite a collection a very grown-up version of Palace's traditional style; of Duke & Dexter shoes, so a collaboration with him made sense. showing an obvious influence of Ralph Lauren throughout ‘The key is to work with the right retailers and collaborate with the collection.  Please contact Tiffany Luckett for more the right celebrities who can grow the following of the brand,’ information. says Archie.

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THE ULTIMATE DISRUPTOR

f there was ever a beauty brand that a result The Ordinary became a household became a cult movement in its own name in skincare, mainly due to its Iright, its undeniably Deciem. There transparent approach and cheap prices. have been many who have credibly tried To put things into perspective, it is to emulate the success of Deciem, but few worth noting that comparative brands “DECIEM continues to sell more who have managed to feasibly create such sell products containing the exact same ABOVE: Nicola Kilner with Brandon Truaxe. a monumental buzz around their products, ingredients at a 95 per cent mark-up. For RIGHT: Internal store shot, Deciem than one product every second. nor have there been many of these ‘cult’ example, The Ordinary sells 100 per cent brands who have well and truly stayed Cold-Pressed Virgin Marula Oil for £8.10, at the top to become a staple part of a while competing brand Drunk Elephant beauty editor’s essential skincare regime. sells the same product for £61 in Space Started by the late Brandon Truaxe NK. That’s a 653 per cent increase. in Toronto, Canada in 2013, the brand As you can imagine from these figures, wanted to break free from the huge demand for products skyrocketed. cosmetic giants out there and start a Eventually the brand took on investment transparent, multi-branded business from Estée Lauder Companies in 2017 when of beauty products that actually work it realised that it couldn’t grow rapidly and sell them direct to the consumer. enough to support product demand. Estée Suffice to say that Brandon realised the Lauder now owns 28 per cent of the business company’s initial intent. As the co-CEO and with its backing and funds in place, and founder of the world’s fastest growing The Ordinary has been able to service the beauty brand, he was open, focused and demands of its customers. Before this, it hands on. When The Ordinary was released was running out of stock every week. Brandon was interviewed by some of the world’s biggest beauty bloggers, detailing every aspect of the products, breaking down the science behind them and explaining how to use them, which meant he successfully engaged with the brand’s target market. As

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Brandon, who sadly passed away in Why do you think Deciem has The Ordinary is arguably the most 01 CAIS2 by the NIOD range (15ml £38.00) January this year, went on to become seen so much success in such coveted Deciem brand. Why do This is NIOD’s undisputable best product. If one of the beauty industry’s most a short space of time? What you think this brand in particular you’re going to use one thing from Deciem, we controversial figures, the subject of has it all been down to? has been so well received? Thinking about trying out one of the many a provocative headline. However, Deciem brand? Below is our review of recommend this product (ideally in conjunction All of our brands stand for innovation, The Ordinary prompted a change in the company has had a constant the brand’s top six products. with MMHC). CAIS is a copper peptides-based integrity and transparency (trust). the industry by saying that price point figurehead in the form of co-CEO product which helps long-term skin care. It The functional beauty category has doesn't define luxury anymore. The Nicola Kilner. Bright and bubbly increases production of collagen and can repair been plagued with marketing fluff and consumer was ready for this change and damage to the skin from the sun. and very level headed, Nicola has mistrust for so long that consumers captivated the hearts and minds of the The Ordinary offers effective, clinical were longing for transparency and skincare at affordable price points. beauty industry and has now become efficacy. Our audience has also been the sole CEO of this ever-growing a hugely beautiful and important Following Brandon Truaxe’s departure MMHC2 by the NIOD range (15ml 3. Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion by company. As we enter into 2019, we part of our growth. When people from the brand in October 2018, how £25.00) The Ordinary range (£8.00) speak to Nicola about some of her see results, they want to share. This does the company plan to move forward? favourite parts of being a leader at Used in conjunction with our number 1 Retinoids are hailed as the single most organic, word of mouth awareness is DECIEM continues to sell more than such a disruptive company which has hero product, MMHC2 works wonders. important ingredient for skincare. It is something that can only be achieved one product every second. We are very grown so quickly in the last five years. Containing the hottest ingredient around, said there isn’t a single other ingredient with good products that work. grateful for the support our team, 03 hyaluronic acid, this product contains 15 that can rival the scientific results of the customers, partners and suppliers have hyaluronic compounds including a 1.0% ingredient in the battle against aging, shown us. Stephen Kaplan, who left the direct hyaluronic acid whose inclusion and any dermatologist will likely agree. business earlier in the 2018, has returned is exceptionally rare as it’s often too Retinoids thin the top layer of skin while as Chief Operating Officer to help expensive for companies to put into their thickening the second layer, which gives support the infrastructure we need to products. This ingredient will result in skin a luminous glow. They also help RIGHT: Spitalfields continue the fast growth we are seeing. improvements to the elasticity of skin clear dead skin cells, oil and debris from store. BELOW: and the general healthy look of the skin. pores, which helps people who suffer with Internal store shot, What’s your favourite Deciem This shows visible results very quickly, acne too. Essentially they are an essential Deciem product and why? rather than CAIS which takes some time feature of an excellent skincare regime. I'm currently expecting our first baby 02 to improve overall skin health. and The Ordinary 100% Organic Virgin Chia Seed Oil has been great for keeping stretch marks at bay. Our NIOD Copper Serum Foundation by Amino Isolate Serum and Multi Molecular Hyaluronic Acid 2% by The Ordinary range The Ordinary range (£5.70) Hyaluronic Complex will always be my (£6.00) staples. I've also recently added our new Only £5.70 but with a waiting Pycnogenol antioxidant from The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid is able to hold 1,000 times list of 25,000 when it launched its weight in water, giving you ultimate to my regimen and I'm loving the results. 05 and 250,000 orders in its first hydration all day. It keeps skin dewy, plumped week. The Serum foundation What has been your favourite moment at and youthful. When others were selling this is a lightweight medium- Deciem? product for £37.00, The Ordinary smashed the coverage formulation available Some of my favourite memories are from market and sold this for £6.00. in 21 shades. This was the first the early days, when you really have to make-up product launched wear every hat needed – from working by any of Deciem’s brands in our production facility overnight to and it is possibly one of its packing orders with the team to make sure most successful products too. everything gets out on time. It gives me such Next to launch is a foundation a feeling of pride to see where we are now 04 that’s lighter than water, with over 650 team members. The team is Watercolours is coming soon. really what makes the journey so special 06 and I have such happy memories from all of our offices around the world. Hand Chemistry by the Chemistry Brand This was Brandon’s first launch brand and first product. When he left Not only is Nicola a CEO of one of the Indeed Labs before starting Deciem he had a two-year non-compete clause world’s best beauty brands, but she has to deal with which stated specifically that he was not allowed to produce also just given birth to her first child. an anti-aging face product. To get round this problem he launched an anti- Congratulations Nicola! aging hand cream, which is one of the bestselling hand creams out there for its age reversing properties - supposedly people use it on their faces.

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BELOW: South Korean cosmetics brand, Innisfree

per cent) of Korea’s beauty exports, however, goes to mainland China. Beauty Korea’s influence, dubbed the 'K-wave', on fashion and lifestyle trends in China has been gathering pace for a number of years, underpinned by the hugely RIDES THE K-WAVE INTO popular stars of Korea’s entertainment industry who endorse products throughout the region. K-beauty has the added attraction of being designed for Asian skin and is typically far more affordable than premium Western brands. A number of Western brands and private equity China & beyond houses have either acquired or are backing Korean brands as a way to access the huge appeal of K-brands in China. In 2016 L Catterton Asia (the private equity THE KOREAN COSMETIC AND arm of LVMH) became a minority stakeholder of CLIO, one of Korea’s longest established make-up SKINCARE INDUSTRY IS PREPARING brands, while in 2015 Estée Lauder bought a 33.3 per TO EXPAND AND DIVERSIFY cent stake in the parent company of Dr Jart+, an anti- ageing skincare brand based in Seoul. BEYOND ASIA. While the expansion focus of South Korean beauty brands largely remains on China, we are starting to see some brands look to new markets beyond Asia Pacific, typically starting with the US. In 2017 f you want to know the next Big Thing in Innisfree, a natural brand made with ingredients beauty take a look at South Korea, where the from Jeju, an island in the Korea Strait, opened Ibeauty industry is among the most innovative in New York, its first store outside the Asia Pacific in the world. BB creams for example, might have region. Korean snail slime, meanwhile, has taken the been invented in Germany, but it was Korean US market by storm. companies that redeveloped them and made them To some extent the expansion into new popular. Sheet masks, sleep packs and products international markets beyond Asia Pacific is about made from snail slime? Korea did them first. The targeting Chinese consumers when they are abroad 10-step beauty regime? Another Korean invention. in order to reinforce the brand at home. But this With Koreans viewing beauty and grooming isn’t just a marketing initiative for South Korean as part of their cultural capital it’s perhaps not brands; it’s more about global revenue expansion and suprising that the Korean beauty industry is among diversification beyond the Chinese market. the world’s most successful, with K-beauty already This is just the start of South Korean brands worth several billion dollars and increasing rapidly. moving beyond their established Asia Pacific According to the Korea International Trade stomping grounds and we expect to see more make Association, South Korean cosmetics exports the leap, with North American markets likely to be totalled US$3.92 billion in 2017, quadrupling the their first port of call before heading into Europe. US$1.05 billion reported in 2013. The bulk (37.4  Please contact Marie Hickey for more information.

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y parents came to London colours, meanwhile, is clearly indicative while we selected a handful of dishes from recently, visiting from the green, of the former use of the building. Slate, the Small Plate, In Between and Large Plate Mgreen fields of Ireland where I dark stone, smoky glass and ebullient, sections of the menu. We opted for the tuna grew up. Their trips are infrequent but volcanic lighting harks back to a time sashimi with beetroot, apple and fennel. The they've been enough times to no longer when mounds of coal would arrive tuna and beetroot were good, but the apple feel the urge to visit Big Ben, Leicester here by canal before being taken away and powerful fennel accompaniments were Square and Buckingham Palace. So by horse and cart to power Victorian great. OX when they do come I try to show them a London. Next up was the Yemei Mansaf, an ox different side to the capital. On arrival we were seated on high cheek stew with freekeh and Jerusalem This time I decided on a ying and stools and immediately handed two artichoke. We had no choice but to select yang experience. We started in Camden copper egg cups of Arak, a delicious this dish as printed on the top of each menu for the hustle and bustle, the giant palate cleansing drink that tasted of were the words ‘Today you’re gonna meet the Converse shoe-adorned buildings and lychee and vanilla. From our elevated Yemei Stew creator’. It transpired that the the fantastically tattooed populous. We position over-looking the kitchen we head chef’s father and creator of the Yemei then walked along the Regent’s Canal could watch the theatre of seven chefs stew, was soon to sit next to us at the bar. towpath to King’s Cross, emerging at weaving their way around one another as The substantial ox cheek was tender and CHEEK the newly redeveloped Coal Drops Yard they churned out a plethora of Israeli- delicious, despite this the freekeh, a wheat- with its sweeping Thomas Heatherwick themed dishes. Every few minutes the like grain, was even better, with an earthy, roof and merging of the bygone with head chef would bellow an order to a nutty and slightly smoky flavour. Move over the contemporary. I hadn’t been there response in unison of ‘YES CHEF!’ quinoa – it’s time to get your freekeh on. since the hoardings came down and I Our first dish was a hunk of bread, Next up was the bone marrow, served was impressed; what’s more, so were my light and brioche like, served with with shawarma and caramelised onion. A parents. Job done. reduced yoghurt, tomato confit and dramatic and very primal finish with the & BONE Two weeks later I returned to Coal oregano. This kept us busy nibbling bone marrow cooked and served inside a Drops Yard to try out Tom Dixon’s and Assaf Granit’s new Coal Office Restaurant. We went early as we hadn’t booked so when we got there at 6:30pm other patrons were few and far between. This made the design-led character of MARROW our surroundings even more obvious, in Coal Drops Yard

BENJI ASHE GETS HIS FREEKEH ON AT COAL OFFICE RESTAURANT, A COLLABORATION BETWEEN ISRAELI CHEF ASSAF GRANIT AND BRITISH DESIGNER TOM DIXON

huge piece of bone. The marrow was melt in the mouth while the beef shawarma and onion packed a deep and rich flavour almost to the point of being overwhelmingly hearty. By this stage we were done, but in the making us wonder whether we interests of a comprehensive review of the were in an actual restaurant whole menu, we soldiered on, ordering a or simply a showcase for fantastic fig leaf ice cream to share. restaurant design. The partnership of leading chef and In reality it is both. Tom leading designer is definitely a winning Dixon’s creative influence combination. Next time I might even bring is evident everywhere, my parents.  Coal Office Restaurant, 2 particularly in the use Bagley Walk, King’s Cross, London N1C 4PQ, MAIN IMAGE: The Coal Office building & restaurant of lighting which is so 020 3848 6085, coaloffice.c. Please contact CENTRE RIGHT: Tuna sashimi with beetroot, apple and fennel synonymous with his design. Benji Ashe for further information. BOTTOM CENTRE: Bone marrow, served with shawarma and caramelised onion The choice of materials and FAR RIGHT: The Coal Office building & restaurant

WINTER 2018/19 OPEN 41 NAMESAVILLS OF DEALS SECTION MY CITY

Tiffany Luckett Space NK to give Brushfield Street a makeover MY CITY TIFFANY WORKS IN THE CENTRAL LONDON RETAIL TEAM

Space NK has opened its first East London FOCUSING ON MAJOR LANDLORD INSTRUCTIONS AND outpost, taking store numbers in Central London ADVISING INTERNATIONAL RETAILERS ON CENTRAL to 20. The store is located on Brushfield Street opposite the Grade II listed Old Spitalfields LONDON ACQUISITIONS. Market.  Please contact James Fairley for more information.

Home is... If you could buy any Chiswick. It’s leafy and green, nice pubs building in London, and decent restaurants. Plus an easy what would it be? escape out to the countryside on a Friday Claridges. I’d live in night on the M4. Vilbrequin to cast a ray of a different suite every What do you collect? night, have a 24 hour light on the Kings Road It’s always changing. At the moment, butler service and own hair accessories. I’m a huge fan of one of the greatest hotels Anthropologie Alice bands and if I could that there ever was. Vilbrequin has taken a new Chelsea flagship to sell its afford it, I’d buy everything I could from designer swim trunks to the well-heeled residents of Chelsea. Lelet NY. The new store sits in the heart of Cadogan’s ownership on the Building you’d like to be locked in Kings Road and gives the brand ultimate access to its target Best piece of advice you have overnight? customer. Swim shorts range from £135 for men but they also ever been given? sell women’s and children’s swimwear as well as other beach Selfridges, Harrods, Liberty. Any of those If someone makes you happy, make them related clothing.  Please contact Peter Thomas for more would do. I’d try on every single thing information. I’d ever fantasized about buying, and be happier. sorely upset when the sun rose its head Most memorable meal? the next day. Unfortunately it wasn’t in London but on the back of a boat in the Caribbean when a man turned up on a small blue wooden boat with live lobsters and sold us some to cook on the barbeque. Couldn’t have been a more glorious day! Harman opens first Earliest London memory? Biggest extravagance? experience store in Europe Coming to stay at my grandad’s who lives I probably spend one quarter of my salary right next to Hyde Park. I was so excited Harman International, the automative audio on beauty products, hair care and facials. company, has opened its first European to hit Oxford Street and go to Tammy Girl, Experience Store in Munich. The store is I’m an addict and my boyfriend would aged 11. located at Sendlingerstrasse 42 and is designed attest to that. to serve as a showcase for Harman’s family of brands including JBL, Harman Kardon Favourite place for a Sunday and AKG, selling audio solutions across all stroll? What is your favourite all time consumer and automotive categories. Harman have three other flagship stores in Shanghai, London shop? When I lived in Notting Hill I Tokyo and New York City. With its deep It’s too hard to choose one but I love loved going to Hyde Park every automotive roots, Munich was a natural choice Koibird on Marylebone Lane. It’s exactly day. It’s busy yes, but if you are for the first European Experience Store. what they say on the website, never in London it’s that buzz you Savills Germany advised Harman on the deal. boring, ever-changing and full of life. Plus want. Families, dogs, couples,  Please contact Laura Salisbury Jones for more I love holidays and they basically have old and young, everyone is there information everything you ever need for a wonderful and everyone is enjoying the summer or winter holiday. “fresh” air. EUROPEAN EUROPEAN DEAL

42 OPEN WINTER 2018/19 WINTER 2018/19 OPEN 43 NAME OF SECTION

Contacts

CENTRAL LONDON RETAIL Lauren Higgins INTERNATIONAL RETAIL +44 (0) 20 7299 3009 AGENCY CONTRIBUTOR [email protected] AGENCY Lars Simen Paulgaard Callum White +47 47 47 36 55 Sam Foyle +44 (0) 207 877 4545 [email protected] +44 (0) 207 409 8171 [email protected] [email protected]

INDUSTRIAL OCCUPIER Peter Thomas RESTAURANTS & LEISURE +44 (0) 20 7734 3443 ADVISORY [email protected] David Bell +44 (0) 20 7877 4516 Sally Duggleby James Fairley [email protected] +44 (0) 207 420 6301 +44 (0) 20 7758 3877 [email protected] [email protected] Benjamin Ashe +44 (0) 20 7758 3889 Oliver Green [email protected] +44 (0) 20 7758 3899 [email protected] Billy Wright +44 (0) 207 409 8084 Lance Marton [email protected] +44 (0) 20 7758 3884 [email protected] LONDON & Tiffany Luckett INTERNATIONAL RETAIL +44 (0) 20 7758 3878 [email protected] Anthony Selwyn +44 (0) 20 7758 3880 [email protected] LEASE CONSULTANCY Laura Salisbury Jones +44 (0) 20 7409 8830 Alan Spencer [email protected] +44 (0) 20 7758 3876 [email protected] Georgia Egan

+44 (0) 207 557 9999 Kristian Kendall [email protected] +44 (0) 20 7758 3881 [email protected]

RESEARCH Daniel Aboud +44 (0) 20 7758 3895 [email protected] Marie Hickey +44 (0) 20 3320 8288 Claire Lakie [email protected] +44 (0) 20 7758 3896 [email protected]

WINTER 2018/19 OPEN 45