Nicola Kilner, CEO of Deciem the HIGHS, the GROWTH, and HOW the COMPANY IS MOVING FORWARD
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SAVILLS RETAIL OPEN CENTRAL LONDON RETAIL | WINTER 2018/19 Introducing Nicola Kilner, CEO of Deciem THE HIGHS, THE GROWTH, AND HOW THE COMPANY IS MOVING FORWARD The War Against Cotton A ROUND UP OF THE MOST SUSTAINABLE FASHION BRANDS A day in Oslo FROM IMPRESSIVE CULTURE TO GREAT COFFEE, THE NORWEGIAN CAPITAL HAS IT ALL WHAT'S IN STORE WHAT'S IN STORE? WELCOME SAVILLS elcome to our fourth issue to bottle tops made into shoes! FASHION 08+ Recent deals of OPEN magazine, a Despite the bad press surrounding 04 10 WSavills produced bi-annual the retail world we are consistently The War against Cotton See all of our recent deals on magazine focusing on retail trends seeing retailers that are triumphing in Saving the world, one brand pages 08, 09, 17, 28, 29 & 42 in London and worldwide, giving this time of immense pressure, doing so at a time… Lauren Higgins reports you in-depth insight into what’s through consistent brand innovation. going on in the market right now. This is abundantly clear in ‘Collaborate This time around our cover star is or Die’ (p.30), an article about fashion NEIGHBOURHOOD FOCUS none other than Nicola Kilner, CEO of partnerships, which proves if you can one of the most disruptive beauty brands keep on top of trends you can make The Power of SW11 ever created. In this interview we delve your mark and even lead the pack. One of the most innovative retail behind the scenes to establish just how And that’s not all, this special edition and leisure destinations in the world Deciem has been so successful in such a also includes a National supplement, short amount of time. We even include proving it isn’t all about London. 14 RETAILER REVIEW our top picks of the brands' products, Flip the magazine over, turn it upside THE FUTURE OF RETAIL tried and tested here at Savills (p.37). down and voila! OPEN National, 18 Does Amazon Deliver? Legalise this? With our focus remaining firmly keeping you up to date with everything Tiffany Luckett reviews the retail on brands for this issue, we have an happening outside of the capital city. Could the future of retail and giant’s recent Fashion pop-up interview with the founder of Duke & Please do get in contact with us if you restaurants have a leafy green future? 20 Dexter, Archie Hewlett (p.24), as well have any questions or want to know as a 4-page spread headlined ‘The more about any of the articles featured. War against Cotton’ (p.4) highlighting We hope you enjoy this issue as some of the industry’s most popular much as us, it’s our favourite so far! sustainable brands and their pioneering Savills Central London EUROPEAN FOCUS products, from cotton imitation Retail & Leisure Team material made from wood and plants, A day in Oslo 24 The Norwegian capital has it RETAILER PROFILE 30 all. Here’s where to find it In Conversation with RETAIL TRENDS Collaborate or die Archie Hewlett In the fast-moving world of fashion it’s Founder of Duke & Dexter 38 all about finding the right partner BEAUTY 34 MY CITY Beauty rides London43 the K-wave into Tiffany Luckett China & beyond on life in London Explore the digital magazine at: savills.co.uk/OPENwinter2018/19 The Korean cosmetic 40 THE FUTURE OF RETAIL BEAUTY and skincare industry is preparing to Ox cheek & bone marrow WEBSITE: SAVILLS.CO.UK/RETAIL The Ultimate Disruptor SAVILLS SOCIAL MEDIA: @SAVILLS expand and diversify in Coal Drops Yard ON THE COVER: NICOLA KILNER, CEO, DECIEM Nicola Kilner on the future of beyond asia. Benji Ashe gets his freekeh on at The team DESIGNED AND PRODUCED BY: SAVILLS COMMERCIAL MARKETING the Deciem brand Coal Office Restaurant Get in touch44 with us 02 OPEN WINTER 2018/19 WINTER 2018/19 OPEN 03 FASHION FASHION T H E WA R AGAINST cottonSAVING THE WORLD, ONE BRAND AT A TIME… LAUREN HIGGINS REPORTS he long-term effects of plastic on the LEFT: The Reformation's cashmere boyfriend sweater environment have been widely publicised TOP: Ninety Percent's ribbed-knit contrast-trim dress. Tfor some time, and rightly so. The same, BELOW TOP: Know the Origin's Organic cotton farm however, cannot be said for the cotton industry. Awareness of the industry’s damaging effects on the successful businesses while ‘doing their The brand has attracted an A-list sustainability of its practices, with a environment has only recently come to the forefront bit’ at the same time. following with the likes of Rihanna, focus on continually improving its future of public debate. Emily Ratajkowski and Karlie Kloss collections. A body of evidence has labelled the fashion Reformation endorsing their clothing, influencing industry as one of the biggest polluters on the planet, millions online and in their physical Know The Origin and is claimed to be the second biggest polluter after Yael Aflalo, the LA-based designer, stores globally. It is safe to say the oil industry. Documentaries such as "Stacey founded Reformation in 2009, with a One of the more affordable eco-brands, Reformation is well on its way to Dooley Investigates: Fashion’s Dirty Secrets" are mission to build a stylish brand with a Know The Origin, manufactures its giving the public an eye-watering account of the green footprint. All clothing is produced achieving its mission of ‘bringing clothing from organic cotton. This dramatic decline of clean freshwater; these have using fibres that feel almost identical sustainable fashion to everyone’. British brand was founded in 2015 by to cotton, but are made from renewable Cheshire-born Charlotte Instone with shocked viewers by demonstrating just how much Ninety Percent water is needed for the growing and manufacturing wood and plant materials, as well as the aim of transforming the fashion of cotton to serve the demands of the fashion reusing clothing and fabric waste. A contemporary London-based brand industry, ensuring full transparency industry today. Reformation not only manufactures which launched in 2018, Ninety Percent from seed to sale. Clothing is produced Clothes might be cheaper than ever, but our planet more sustainably, but also invests has an ethos of sharing 90 per cent of using traditional farming techniques is paying the price. So, how are retailers taking in programmes which replenish the its profits between charitable causes, with no toxic chemicals. This process is responsibility in limiting their impact? resources it has spent, such as restoring with the consumer choosing where this significantly less water intensive, with The ever-growing consumer appetite for ‘guilt-free freshwater to declining rivers. All of this money goes. Some of its collections are 70-80 per cent of this organic cotton clothing’ has sparked a huge surge in eco-fashion is tracked on the company’s ‘RefScale’ made from organic cotton, however being globally rainfed. The brand uses start-ups. More and more retailers are finally which enables the consumer to see just the majority are made from Tencel®, a traceable fabrics, meaning the consumer beginning to sit up and listen. Here, I would love to how green an item of clothing is, both in renewable wood material. The company can trace where the material has been share a few of my favourite brands who have built store and online. is investing hugely into developing the sourced, right down to the plantation. 04 OPEN WINTER 2018/19 WINTER 2018/19 OPEN 05 FASHION NAME OF SECTION Allbirds This exciting new American footwear brand has completely moved away from the traditional canvas and produces its shoes using purely Merino sheep wool - using 60 per cent less energy. Its love for mother nature does not end there – it prides itself on its highly sustainable manufacturing process, which focusses on producing, for example, its own laces from recycled plastic bottles, using Castor bean oil in its insoles, creating eyelets from micro-organisms, manufacturing shoe soles using sustainable sugar cane and finally, packaging its shoes in 90 per cent recycled cardboard. Intrigued? Go visit its debut UK store at 123 Long Acre, Covent Garden, London. But how are the fashion giants helping fight the fight? The trailblazers of the fast fashion industry are quickly becoming the talk of the town amongst environmentalists, TOP LEFT: Allbirds, Covent Garden store the media and the consumer. The rate of clothing production CENTRE: Organic cotton, Know the Origin has never been higher, and there is no hiding from the fact BELOW: Levi's. TOP RIGHT: Ninety Percent, Extra-fine merino stripe-sleeve sweater that the fast fashion industry is having a detrimental impact on the environment. It is hard to ignore this impact when faced with the knowledge that up to 1,800 gallons of water go into the Levi Strauss cotton (C&A is the first), which production of just one pair of jeans – over 11 years of uses 90 per cent less water and 60 With denim production being drinking water for one person. per cent less energy than normal amongst the biggest culprits of the However, this is changing. Fast fashion giants are cotton. It cooperates with key global cotton industry, Levis acknowledges beginning to take responsibility for their impact in the initiatives promoting sustainable that it is a US$5 billion company face of growing consumer awareness. This, in turn, practice, including Textile Exchange based on selling cotton clothing. It is encouraging innovation and investment into new and the Better Cotton Initiative. It too spoke out at the Copenhagen technologies which will have a profound impact upon the is also a founding member of the Fashion Summit in 2018, with the future of clothing production.