EU MARKET SURVEY 2002
EU MARKET SURVEY 2002
FOOTWEAR VOLUME II
VOLUME II FOOTWEAR
Mailing address: P.O. Box 30009, 3001 DA Rotterdam, The Netherlands Phone: +31 10 201 34 34 Fax: +31 10 411 40 81 E-mail: [email protected] Internet: http://www.cbi.nl CENTRE FOR THE PROMOTION OF IMPORTS FROM DEVELOPING COUNTRIES Office and showroom: WTC-Beursbuilding, 5th floor 37 Beursplein, Rotterdam, The Netherlands EU MARKET SURVEY 2002 FOOTWEAR
Compiled for CBI by:
Drs. Jan P. Servaas
August 2002 DISCLAIMER The information provided in this market survey is believed to be accurate at the time of writing. It is, however, passed on to the reader without any responsibility on the part of CBI or the authors and it does not release the reader from the obligation to comply with all applicable legislation.
Neither CBI nor the authors of this publication make any warranty, expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy of the information presented, and will not be liable for injury or claims pertaining to the use of this publication or the information contained therein.
No obligation is assumed for updating or amending this publication for any reason, be it new or contrary information or changes in legislation, regulations or jurisdiction. Updated version of CBI’s Market survey “Footwear” published in September 2001. Photo courtesy:
Jop Rijksbaron CONTENTS
REPORT SUMMARY 6
1PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS 8 1.1 Product groups 8 1.2 Products 8 1.3 Customs/statistical product classification 10
2 INTRODUCTION TO THE EU MARKET 11
3 CONSUMPTION OF FOOTWEAR 13 3.1 Market size 13 3.2 Market segmentation 16 3.3 Consumption patterns and trends 18
4PRODUCTION 21 4.1 Footwear production in the EU 21 4.2 EU Outward Processing Trade 24
5IMPORTS 26 5.1 Total imports 26 5.2 Imports by product group 33 5.3 The role of developing countries 38
6 EXPORTS 42 6.1 EU exports of footwear 42
7 TRADE STRUCTURE 45 7.1 EU trade channels 45 7.1.1 Manufacturers 45 7.1.2 Agents 46 7.1.3 Importers/wholesalers 46 7.1.4 Retailers 46 7.2 Distribution channels for developing countries 53
8 PRICES AND MARGINS 54 8.1 Margins 54 8.2 Prices 55 8.3 Sources of price information 55
9 OPPORTUNITIES FOR DEVELOPING COUNTRY EXPORTERS 56
APPENDICES 1 Detailed classification of footwear, by Harmonised System Code 58 2 Detailed import and export statistics of footwear by product type and area of origin into the EU, 1998-2000 61 3 Specification of imports of footwear by product type into major EU countries 1998-2000 64 4Trade associations 69 5Trade fair organisers 71 6Trade press 73 7 Business Support Organisations 75 8 Other useful addresses 76 9 List of developing countries 78 10 List of major buyers of footwear in The Netherlands 79 11 List of major buyers of footwear in the EU 87 12 Useful internet sites 89
5 REPORT SUMMARY
Introduction Together with other CBI publications, like “Products” This survey profiles the market for footwear in the and the “Environmental Quick Scan Leather”, a fairly European Union (EU) and is an updated and extended complete overview is given to manufacturers/ version of the former CBI survey Footwear, published exporters in developing countries, who wish to sell to in July 1996. The emphasis of the survey lies on those the EU market. Seasonal fashion information on products, which are of importance to developing clothing and colours, which may be an indication for country suppliers. The major national markets within footwear fashion, can be obtained from CBI’s Fashion the EU for those products are highlighted. The survey Forecasts. Some of these sources of information are includes contact details of importers, trade associations, also available on the CBI web site. and other relevant organisations. Furthermore, statistical market information on consumption, production and Survey trade, and information on trade structure and prices and The survey “Footwear” includes outdoor footwear, margins is provided. sports and leisure footwear and indoor footwear for As an exporter, you need this information to formulate men, women and children. your own market and product strategies. In order to Consumption of footwear in the EU grew by assist you with this, CBI has also developed a matching 3.3 percent in the period 1998-2001 to € 53.2 billion EU Strategic Marketing Guide for Footwear. It offers a (US$ 47.9 bn). Based on preliminary figures, a further practical handbook for exporters engaged, or wishing to growth is expected for the next five years. The footwear engage, in exporting footwear to the EU. It aims to market has tended to be characterised by cheap, facilitate exporters in formulating their own market and mass-produced items, but in recent years there has been product strategies through the provision of practical some movement away from such products towards information and a methodology of analysis and higher quality, more individual footwear. ready-to-fill-in frameworks. Germany is still the most important country in footwear As mentioned above, statistical market information on consumption in the EU, despite a smaller growth than consumption, production and trade, and information on the EU average. Germany is followed by Italy, UK, trade structure and prices and margins, which is France, and Spain and at a distance by The Netherlands. required for the ready-to-fill-in frameworks, can be The five first mentioned leading countries account for found in this EU Market Survey. 81 percent of EU footwear consumption. In many EU countries, the demand for formal Market research (dress shoes) footwear is declining in favour of casual This EU Market Survey and the EU Strategic and leisure/sportswear, which implies higher increasing Marketing Guide serve as a basis for further market sales in terms of volume rather than in terms of value. research: after you have read this survey and filled in Footwear production in the EU decreased from the frameworks in the strategic marketing guide it is 1,081 million pairs in 1997 to 910 million in 2000. important to further research your target markets, sales It sank for the first time below the one billion pair level channels and potential customers. in 1999 and continued its fall with 5 percent in 2000 as Market research depends on secondary data (data that it relocated to other, and especially former Eastern bloc, have been compiled and published earlier) and primary countries. Italy remained the EU’s leading footwear data (information that you collect yourself). producer with almost 43 percent of total EU production, An example of secondary data is this EU Market followed by Spain (22%), Portugal (12%) and France Survey. Primary data are needed when secondary data (11%). Around 280,000 employees worked in the EU fall short of your needs, for example when researching footwear industry in 2000, while this number was still your specific type of consumer about the acceptance of 325,000 in 1995. The footwear industry is relatively your specific product. Sources of information are labour-intensive, added to which increasing costs and among others (statistical) databanks, newspapers and competition from cheap imports have pressed magazines, market reports, (annual) reports from manufacturers to specialise in niches (luxury, safety or branch associations, but also shops in target countries, orthopaedic footwear) or to shift production to abroad products or catalogues from your competitors, and via the outward processing route. The footwear conversations with suppliers, specialists, colleagues and manufacturing industry in two countries, Italy and even competitors. After you received/collected your The Netherlands showed (limited) positive developments, information you should analyse it. In order to judge the but at the other end of the scale, significant reductions attractiveness of the market, sales channel or customer, had been recorded by many other EU producers. you should use/develop a classification or score system. For example, UK footwear production plummeted For more detailed information on market research, nearly 46 percent, followed by Belgium 25%, France reference is made to CBI’s Export Planner (2000). 13%, Germany 9% and Spain 4%.
6 EU imports of footwear amounted to € 19.4 billion The EU member states exported US$ 16.5 billion (US$ 17.9 bn) in 2000. Germany remained the leading (€ 17.9 bn) in 2000, representing a fall in value of importer, with an import share of 22 percent in terms of almost 10 percent in the period 1998-2000. In terms of value, followed by UK (17%), France (15%), Italy volume, EU exports decreased from 967 million pairs (13%) and The Netherlands (8%). Belgium ranked in 1998 to 936 million in 2000. The fall in EU exports sixth, followed by Austria. was the result of lower exports to countries outside the EU imports of footwear decreased by 4.4 percent in the EU: in value (- 12%) and in volume (- 7%). period 1999-2000. Developments in import of footwear The leading EU exporter is Italy with 43 percent of vary strongly per country. EU countries can be divided, total EU exports, at a distance followed by Spain, by developments in value of imports during this period, Belgium, Portugal, Germany, France and into very strongly decreased imports (falling more than The Netherlands. The main destinations outside the EU 10%) in Portugal, Finland, Germany and Belgium and were the USA (13 percent of total exports and booming imports (rising more than 10%) in Spain. 35 percent of extra-EU exports in 2000, followed by Between these extremes, imports in Italy, France, Switzerland, Japan and Russia). The Netherlands, Denmark and Ireland grew, while imports in the other EU countries fell. Specialised retailers (footwear multiples and EU imports from developing countries increased in independent footwear retailers) accounted for terms of volume (+ 19%) but against lower prices 65 percent of total retail sales in 2001. The market (-6%). Developing countries gain from the lower share of non-specialised distributors became limited. intra-EU imports, just like other countries from outside Other important developments are increasing the EU like Romania and Taiwan. concentration and growing internationalisation or Italy remained the leading supplier to the EU market in cross-border activities, of which the main (besides the category outdoor footwear with uppers of leather many others) examples are Garant Schuh AG in with 141 million pairs in 2000 above Portugal, Vietnam, Germany and sports formula like Intersport and Sport Spain and China. China remained the EU’s leading 2000. supplier in the product groups plastic/or rubber Generally spoken, domestic manufacturers and footwear for sports and outdoor. Sports footwear with wholesalers/importers distribute footwear directly to the uppers of textiles came mainly from China, Belgium retail trade. With regard to imports from outside and Vietnam, indoor footwear with uppers of textiles Europe, wholesalers/importers, large multiples and from China and Spain; outdoor footwear with uppers of buying cooperatives mainly act as contractors. textiles from Vietnam and China. The keen competition on the footwear market will China remained the leading exporter of footwear to the steadily increase and this leads to further possibilities EU, however, the difference with number two Vietnam for exporters from low-cost countries. became very small in terms of value. EU imports from A start for exporters, which involves limited risks, is to China rose from US$ 1,261 million in 1998 to try to acquire fixed orders for products specified by the US$ 1,661 million in 2000, while imports from client, because the latter has the best knowledge of his Vietnam rose from US$ 967 million in 1998 to market. Exporters in the footwear sector are confronted US$ 1,509 million in 2000. with many aspects like sizing, packaging, The growth in imports from developing countries in environmental aspects. These result in a lot of legal and 2000 can be ascribed to the following categories: technical requirements, added to which are aspects of ¥ Asian low price suppliers, like China and Vietnam. design and fashionability leading to quality Other countries from the Far East with sharply requirements, market developments etc. increased exports to the EU were Cambodia, Macao The role of wholesalers/importers will stabilise, while and Malaysia. the role of footwear multiples and, to a lesser degree, ¥ CEECs, like Bosnia & Herzegovina, Moldova and buying groups or franchise formula will increase in the Slovenia. coming years. The buying policies of super- and hypermarkets vary from direct imports by the international operating chains to buying from wholesalers/importers.
7 1 PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS
1.1 Product groups ¥ Work, hunting and safety footwear. Safety Footwear is categorised in several ways in official footwear offers protection adapted to the type of statistics, according to: work involved and often covers shoes and boots with ¥ end use: waterproof footwear, safety footwear, sports a built-in steel toecap designed to prevent crushing footwear, indoor footwear and other footwear damage to the toes. Distribution and end-use is (outdoor footwear if not classified before); completely different from the other segments of ¥raw materials used for the uppers and the soles. footwear. For that reason this segment is not Uppers can be of leather, synthetic leather, plastic, considered in this survey and we refer to the CBI rubber or textile (canvas). Outer soles may be of survey and guide “Personal Protective Equipment”. leather, plastic, rubber, wood, cork and other materials; Besides the distinction based on wearing circumstances, ¥ end user: for children, for women and/or for men; a breakdown can be made by: materials used for uppers ¥footwear height: varying from not covering the (leather, rubber/plastic, canvas/textile etc.) and outer ankle, covering the ankle but under the calf, and soles (leather, rubber, plastic, synthetic leather, wood other covering the ankle (calf-, mid-calf-, knee- and etc.). The criterion for footwear for adults or for thigh-length); children in statistics is the size of the inner sole: an ¥ in some cases a distinction is made for aspects like inner sole of less than 24 cm is considered to be the height of the heels including soles (more than children’s wear in this survey. 3 cm) or the presence of a vamp of straps or pieces cut out. 1.2 Products In this paragraph a (not exhaustive) overview is given Other definitions can be made by the method of of the enormous varieties in types of footwear. Most of attaching the upper to the sole or other production these types are not used in statistics and for that reason techniques. not discussed further in this survey. Defining types of footwear by their end use or wearing circumstances gives the following breakdown (besides Types of footwear the breakdown into women’s, men’s and children’s Footwear is the generic term for foot coverings. footwear) into four major segments: Footwear with the opening below the ankle is a shoe, ¥ Outdoor footwear; this segment which is also those with the top of the foot exposed are pumps, and indicated as town or street wear, is made up of a those with the opening above the ankle are classified as wide variety of products such as shoes (pumps, boots. In addition, those items which do not fully moccasins, loafers, Oxford shoes etc.), boots enclose the foot are sandals when used outdoors and (ankle-, calf-, knee- or thigh-high), clogs, some types slippers when used indoors. A classification can be of sandals etc. made in shoes, sandals and slippers, boots and sport Using the link to clothing behaviour, a breakdown shoes or sneakers. can be made in formal (dress shoes), casual and Shoes - outer covering for the foot which does not leisure/sports footwear. However, sandals can be reach higher than the ankle, basically made up of the classified as casual as well as leisure/sport footwear, sole (under the foot), the vamp (front part), the quarter while some models even can be classified as formal (back part) and the shank (portion under the instep). wear. Shoes may be of the slip-on variety (pumps or ¥ Sports and leisure footwear; this segment covers moccasins) or closed with laces (oxford-type), buckles sports wear with on the one side, trainers or runners, or Velcro ¨. made for jogging and other sports activities, but ¥ Pumps; this kind of slip-ons has a large opening for which are also worn for every day use, and on the the foot (rounded or V-shaped) so the top of the foot other side more specific technical products for football, cycling athletics, skiing etc. This segment also includes footwear with a leisure character, like textile uppers especially for summer wear such as sneakers, rope-soled sandals, plimsolls etc. ¥ Indoor footwear; this segment includes slippers (carpet, bedroom and house slippers) and mules. Carpet slippers are indicated as “Pantoffel” in Germany and in The Netherlands and as “charentaise” in France.
8 is exposed. It usually has a medium to high heel, sometimes covered with the same material as the upper, sometimes with open toe and/or open heel in sling back style. Names of pumps are for instance: high heel (5 cm or more), mid/low heels, ankle strap, sling backs, one-strap shoe, open toe, cross strap, flat shoes, T-strap shoes, back and side open, one-point shoes, ballet pumps etc. A British name for a pump is court shoe. ¥ Moccasins and loafers; characteristics of the moccasin are that upper and sole are in one piece and the shoe is closed by stitching in the vamp (not at the back as is usual); in this form mainly used Boots - the generic term for footwear with the opening as indoor wear. For outdoors, the outer sole and heel above the ankle and indicating several lengths (ankle- are attached to the bottom and can be identified by high and calf-high or reaching the knee or the thigh). the absence of an inner sole. The loafer is essentially Can be classified as utility (hunting, climbing etc.) a two-piece moccasin but has a hard sole and a strap boots and fashion boots, the latter is not intended to be or saddle, made of leather, over the instep. Names of waterproof. loafers are: tassel-top loafers, chain loafers, and Ankle boots are: jodhpur boot, desert boot (or chukka penny loafer. The loafer is an example of a dressy boot or floats), side gore boot (or Chelsea boot), type of shoe, while the moccasin (Indian moccasin, mukluk, demi-boot, george boot etc. The generic name leather deck shoes etc.) can be classified as a sport or for calf-length boots is high-low boots, specific types leisure type. are cowboy boot, Courrèges boots etc. Types of ¥Oxford shoes is the generic name for lace-up shoes, knee-length boots are Wellington, (turnover) top boots like Brogue shoes a closed front tie shoe, the upper etc. Boots that reach the thigh are called stocking or fit comprising several parts each punched and serrated boots. (gimped) along the margins, together with a punched and gimped wing cap. A brogue effect is often Sports footwear - nearly all sport activities require achieved in other styles of shoe by punching and specific footwear. The link with leisure started already gimping. Brogues are the formal name for wing tip in the 1920s when tennis became popular and adults shoes. adopted sneakers and plimsolls, before that time only worn by children. In the 1950s the basketball boot overtook the sneaker in particular for men’s footwear, of which the most famous brand was Converse’s All Stars. Training shoes (trainers) and runners are some of the many other names. The name of sneakers was replaced by gym shoes or tennis shoes of white canvas and is now used for a range of low and high sports shoes. The leading brands (Nike, Reebok, Adidas, Puma and Fila) use some of the following types of sports shoes in their assortment: running (with or without reflecting details), cross training, conditioning (aerobics and fitness), workout, outdoor or hiking, leisure, walking Sandals - open type of shoes (backless, with or without and fitness. Most of these sports items are now worn in a heel); held on foot by means of straps, like: chappal non-working circumstances by consumers of every age. or chuplee (originating in India), ankle-strap, T-strap, gladiator and platform sandal or with a band over the instep that holds the shoe on the foot, like: slides, clogs (made with thick sole of wood or cork), mules with heel open or the so-called Hepburn sandal with toe and heel open.
Slippers - include several types of carpet, bedroom or house slippers, mules (UK), evening slippers etc. Slippers are not intended to be worn outdoors. Examples of slippers are the low-heel boudoir slipper, the hostess slipper, Grecian slippers etc.
9 Usage of sports shoes for sports like soccer, athletics (spikes), baseball, skiing, surfing etc. is limited to their specific activities.
1.3 Customs/statistical product classification Products can be specified by the Harmonised Commodity Description and Coding System (HS). These numbers are used for both Customs and statistical purposes in EU member countries. The number clearly identifies a specific product, so it is possible to see which types of footwear are concerned and which materials are used. Referring to the code number can therefore facilitate communication and eliminate misunderstanding about the type of footwear. Chapter 64 –“Footwear, leggings, similar articles and parts thereof”- is the relevant section of the HS code. The key product group headings are:
HS code Product group 64.01 Waterproof footwear 64.02 Footwear with outer soles and uppers of rubber or artificial plastic material 64.03 Footwear with leather uppers 64.04 Footwear with textile uppers, soles of rubber and plastic 64.05 Footwear with synthetic leather uppers, slippers and other indoor shoes with textile and other uppers 64.06 Parts of footwear
Appendix I of this survey gives full information on the HS codes relevant for all different types of footwear. Please note that the product groups falling under the HS codes presented in section 1.3 are not completely in line with the product groups mentioned in section 1.1 and section 1.2. Moreover, different statistical sources use different product groups or specifications. This places limitations on in-depth interpretation of trade figures and of the possible relationships between import figures and production and consumption data.
10 2 INTRODUCTION TO THE EU MARKET
The European Union (EU) is the current name for the On 1 January 1999, the euro (€) became the legal former European Community. Since 1 January 1995 the currency within eleven EU member states: Austria, EU has consisted of 15 member states. Negotiations are Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Italy, Ireland, in progress with a number of candidate member states, Luxembourg, The Netherlands, Spain, and Portugal. many of which already have extensive trade and Greece became the 12th member in June 2000. co-operation agreements with the EU. Their national currencies are now subdivisions of the In 2000, the size of the EU population totalled euro and continued to circulate as legal tender until mid 376.5 million, of which two thirds in the age category 2002. Circulation of euro coins and banknotes started 15-64 years. on 1 January 2002 and these will gradually replace national currency notes and coins, which must be The most important aspect of the process of unification withdrawn by 1 July 2002. (of the former EC countries), which affects trade, is the harmonisation of rules in the EU countries. As the The most recent Eurostat trade statistics quoted in this unification allows free movement of capital, goods, survey are from the year 2000. On 1 January 1999, services and people, the internal borders have been statistical and contractual values in ECU were removed. Goods produced or imported in one member converted into euro (€) on a 1:1 exchange rate. state can be moved around between the other member The euro/US$ exchange rate stood ultimo June 2002 at states without restrictions. A precondition for this free US$ 0.9820 for one euro. movement is uniformity in the rules and regulations The US dollar is the basic currency unit used to indicate concerning locally produced or imported products. value in this market survey, while most recent years are Although the European Union is already a fact, all the also expressed in euros. regulations have not yet been harmonised. Work is in progress on uniform regulations in the fields of environmental pollution, health, safety, quality and education.
Table 2.1 Overview population and age groups in the EU at 1 January 2000
Total 0-14 15-64 65 years Yearly average population years years and older growth in % in millions in % in % in % 1995-2000
Austria 8.1 17 68 15 0.5 Belgium 10.2 18 66 16 0.3 Denmark 5.3 18 67 15 0.4 Finland 5.2 19 66 15 0.4 France 59.3 19 66 15 0.6 Germany 82.2 16 68 16 0.4 Greece 10.5 16 68 16 0.3 Ireland 3.8 23 66 11 1.1 Italy 57.7 15 68 17 0.2 Luxembourg 0.4 19 67 14 1.0 Netherlands 15.9 18 69 13 0.7 Portugal 10.0 17 68 15 0.3 Spain 39.4 16 68 16 0.1 Sweden 8.9 19 64 17 0.4 United Kingdom 59.6 19 65 16 0.5 EU (15) 376.5 17 67 16 0.4
Source: Eurostat
11 Table 2.2 Exchange rates of EU currencies in US$, 1995-2001
Country Currency 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 mid 2002
European Union ECU 1.25 1.13 1.12 - - - € 1.065 0.922 0.900 0.982 Austria Ash 0.094 0.082 0.081 0.077 0.068 0.065 - Belgium Bfr 0.032 0.028 0.028 0.026 0.023 0.022 - Denmark Dkr 0.17 0.15 0.15 0.14 0.12 0.12 0.13 France Ffr 0.20 0.17 0.17 0.16 0.14 0.14 - Finland FM 0.22 0.19 0.19 0.18 0.16 0.15 - Germany DM 0.66 0.58 0.57 0.54 0.47 0.46 - Greece GRD 0.41 0.36 0.34 0.32 0.28 0.27 - Ireland I£ 1.60 1.52 1.42 1.38 1.20 1.17 - Italy L 0.65 0.59 0.58 0.55 0.48 0.46 - Netherlands NLG 0.59 0.51 0.51 0.48 0.42 0.41 - Portugal Esc 0.65 0.57 0.56 0.53 0.46 0.45 - Spain Ptas 0.79 0.68 0.67 0.64 0.55 0.54 - Sweden Skr 0.15 0.13 0.13 0.12 0.10 0.10 0.10 United Kingdom GB£ 1.56 1.64 1.66 1.62 1.51 1.45 1.53
Source: CBS Statline (January 2002)
Trade figures quoted in this survey must be interpreted and used with extreme caution. The collection of data regarding trade flows has become more difficult since the establishment of the single market on 1 January 1993. Until that date, trade was registered by means of compulsory Customs procedures at border crossings, but, since the removal of the intra-EU borders, this is no longer the case. Statistical bodies like Eurostat cannot now depend on the automatic generation of trade figures. In the case of intra-EU trade, statistical reporting is only compulsory for exporting and importing firms whose trade exceeds a certain annual value. The threshold varies considerably from country to country, but it is typically about € 100,000. As a consequence, although figures for trade between the EU and the rest of the world are accurately represented, trade within the EU is generally underestimated. This market survey highlights the following countries besides the EU in total: Germany, UK, France, Italy and The Netherlands. These countries are the major importers of footwear in the EU in the ranking as mentioned. The ranking in order of consumption is Germany, UK, Italy, France, Spain and The Netherlands.
12 3 CONSUMPTION OF FOOTWEAR
Information about consumption of footwear is The five first mentioned leading countries account for significant different between the separate EU member 81 percent of EU footwear consumption. states. For that reason an uniform detailed overview of consumer expenditure on footwear by product types etc. The footwear sector accounts for about 1.1 percent of cannot be given in this survey for the major countries total consumer expenditure in the EU. Consumption under review. patterns of households vary substantially across the EU, due to differences in culture, traditions and tastes. 3.1 Market size Looking at the major EU countries, Spanish and Italian consumers are the biggest spenders on footwear. EU French, UK and Netherlands consumption were higher Consumption of footwear in the EU grew by 3.3 than the EU average consumption of footwear, percent in the period 1998-2001, 2.2 percent in 1999, while German consumption was lower. stabilised in 2000 and grew by 1.4 percent in 2001 to € 53.2 billion (US$ 47.9 bn). Germany Based on preliminary figures, a further growth is The value of footwear consumption in Germany expected for the next five years. The footwear market increased in the period 1998-2001 after some years of has tended to be characterised by cheap, mass-produced declining, however, this growth occurred only to a very items, but in recent years there has been some slight degree. In volume terms, the German market movement away from such products towards higher reached 379 million pairs in 2001. Average prices quality, more individual footwear. decreased in the period under review, while the Germany is still the most important country in footwear footwear spending per capita stabilised. Demographic consumption in the EU, as can be derived from table developments and a (weak) price inflation are the main 3.1, despite a smaller growth than the EU average in the factors of a slightly growing footwear market. period 1998-2001. Germany is followed by Italy, UK, Developments in the footwear market are the result of France, and Spain and at a distance by The Netherlands. many factors like economic limitations
Table 3.1 Consumption of footwear (€ million) in EU countries in 1998-2001 and expected developments in 2003-2006
1998 1999 2000 2001*) Per head Expected annual consumption growth 2000 2002-2006 (in €) in %
Germany 10,507 10,554 10,560 10,729 133 1.6 Italy 8,824 8,998 9,116 9,235 143 1.5 United Kingdom 9,023 9,414 8,892 9,026 140 1.9 France 8,044 8,121 8,197 8,273 138 1.5 Spain 5,810 5,868 5,886 5,911 144 1.8 The Netherlands 1,836 1,983 2,107 2,231 139 1.9 Belgium 1,421 1,437 1,446 1,454 145 1.7 Portugal 1,113 1,160 1,173 1,184 121 1.3 Greece 998 1,089 1,120 1,135 113 1.3 Austria 1,065 1,078 1,094 1,105 138 1.6 Sweden 1,036 1,052 1,062 1,072 125 1.5 Denmark 640 666 674 692 131 1.5 Finland 592 598 608 617 122 1.2 Ireland 437 453 462 470 131 1.4 Luxembourg 61 64 64 65 145 1.8 EU (15) 51,407 52,535 52,461 53,199 137 1.7
*) partly estimated Sources: FSO, Retail Intelligence and Eurostat
13 Table 3.2 Consumer expenditure on footwear in Germany, 1996-2000
1996 1998 2000 Volume Value Volume Value Volume Value Value mln pairs € mln mln pairs € mln mln pairs € mln US$ mln
Footwear with leather uppers: Sports 22 1,167 21 1,085 22 1,088 1,002 Sandals 36 847 38 791 37 708 652 Town wear for: Ð Women 73 3,632 75 3,698 77 3,749 3,453 Ð Men 44 2,140 43 2,245 45 2,406 2,216 Ð Children 17 574 16 559 16 569 524 Other 5 173 4 136 5 134 123 Footwear with other uppers: Ð Slippers 29 271 28 298 29 304 280 Ð Other 146 1,751 152 1,695 148 1,602 1,475 Total 372 10,555 377 10,507 379 10,560 9,725
Sources: HBD and Euromonitor
(consumer spending in Germany is weak compared to Reebok together take a quarter. In the health sector other major EU countries), intensive price competition Birkenstock (sandals), Bama and Ganter are the most (increasing market shares for non-specialist retailers), popular brands. growing imports from low-cost countries (direct imports as well as production abroad under the regime The Netherlands of German manufacturers) etc. In 2001, total consumer expenditure on footwear in The Netherlands amounted to € 2.2 billion (US$ 2.1 Women’s footwear captures about 54 percent of the bn), or 5.9 percent more than in the previous year. footwear sector in Germany, while men’s footwear In 1999, there was even an increase of 6.1 percent to accounts for 34 percent in terms of volume. Per capita almost € 2.1 billion (US$ 1.9 bn). The average consumption decreased from 4.8 pairs per person in consumption was € 139 per head, which is higher than 1996 to 4.6 pairs in 2001, of which 2.4 pairs leather, the EU average. A lower annual growth of around 1.8 pairs non-leather and 0.4 pairs of slippers. 2 percent is expected for the next 5 years. Per capita spending valued € 132 (US$ 122) in 2001, In terms of volume, consumption grew 3.7 percent in lower than the EU average of € 136 (US$ 125). 1999, 5.2 percent in 2000 but decreased 0.8 percent to The German footwear market has been polarising for reach almost 68 million pairs in 2001. several years. High priced footwear covers high-fashion branded footwear for women, health and comfort Average prices of footwear rose 0.9 percent in 2000 and footwear for children and older adults (of which more 6.7 percent in 2001. Increased expenditure was the women than men), while branded sports footwear is result of the following aspects: very popular among young people. Lower priced ¥ Consumers bought higher priced footwear. footwear mostly covers unbranded imported footwear, Higher priced footwear concerns mainly luxury and especially shoes with textile uppers, mainly from China high-quality shoes and for women also leather boots. and other East Asian countries like Vietnam, partly as a Luxury and high-qualitity shoes (especially for men) result of an ineffective EU anti-dumping policy. are often made by domestic manufacturers (mainly These developments resulted in a fall in sales of abroad); mid-priced shoes. ¥ Consumers expanded their footwear collection, The most popular brands remained the shoe names of for instance by buying footwear for special events or the two top retail chains Deichmann and Salamander. occasions; and, Branded shoes from clothing retailers have been doing ¥ Popularity among (female) consumers for fun well (C&A). Popular brands in the sector comfortable shopping. shoes are Ara, Jenny, Gabor, Rieker, Domdorf, Ganter, Salamander and Sioux and in the sector children’s Brand loyalty is rather low in the footwear sector. footwear Elefanten, Ricosta and Salamander. In the According to an inquiry by Shoemonitor in 1999: sports sector, the two leading brands Adidas and Nike 75 percent of the Dutch consumers does not have a together take around half the market, while Puma and favorite brand. The most popular brands in the women’s
14 Table 3.3 Consumer expenditure on footwear in The Netherlands, 1999-2001
1999 2000 2001 Value % of Value % of Value Value % of € ’000 total € ’000 total € ’000 US$ ’000 total
Ð Women 902 45.5 946 44.9 1021 941 45.9 Ð Men 516 26.0 547 26.0 575 530 25.7 Ð Children 251 12.7 270 12.8 284 262 12.7 Ð Sports 213 10.7 228 10.8 233 215 10.5 Ð Other 101 5.1 116 5.5 118 109 5.2 Total 1,983 100.0 2,107 100.0 2,231 2,057 100.0
Source: EIM, CBS sector are Ecco, Gabor and Clarks; in the men’s sector respectively. Compared to other sectors of the market, van Bommel, Ecco and Van Lier; in the children’s consumption of leather shoes decreased slightly over sector Piedro, Elefanten and Renata; in the sports sector the past three years, but nevertheless has been affected Nike, Adidas, Reebok, Puma and Fila, and in the indoor somewhat by the general reduction in consumer footwear sector Rohde, Blenzo and Romika. It has expenditure. to be noted that the so-called spontaneous brand Per capita spending valued € 143 (US$ 132) in 2000, knowledge is rather low, with the exception of the which was far above the EU average of € 137. sports sector. No detailed figures concerning footwear consumption Italy in Italy were available, so for that reason the figures in Until 1997, the Italian consumer footwear market table 3.4 are derived from apparent consumption showed a trend towards more expensive products. (calculated as production plus imports less export). In the years, which followed the market grew very The availability of detailed production figures slowly in terms of volume and value. The decrease in combined with trade statistics from Eurostat gives the Italian production (mainly fashion and sports) as well following figures. as in export, a strong increase of imports (from Asian countries as well as from other EU countries) caused a The sector sports footwear performed well in the period pressure on prices. under review, primarily due to an increase in imported In terms of the Italian market for footwear by sector, branded goods such as Nike and Reebok. The wearing leather footwear accounted for 70 percent of total of sports shoes, for purposes other than for sports, as a consumption in 2000. Leather footwear was followed replacement for everyday leather shoes has been by footwear with synthetic and textile uppers, changed by an increased usage of casual varieties of accounting for 13 and 9 percent of total consumption sports shoes.
Table 3.4 Consumer expenditure (in volume and value) on footwear in Italy, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 Volume Value Volume Value Volume Value Value mln pairs € mln mln pairs € mln mln pairs € mln US$ mln
Footwear with uppers of: Ð leather 157.3 6,291 158.3 6,450 157.2 6,445 5,935 Ð synthetic 55.7 1,134 54.4 1,109 58.2 1,196 1,102 Ð rubber 8.1 132 8.3 126 8.5 131 121 Ð textile 44.6 796 46.3 830 47.6 842 775 Ð other 2.7 41 2.4 39 3.0 53 49 Slippers 54.4 430 54.9 444 54.6 449 414 Total 322.8 8,824 324.6 8,998 329.1 9,116 8,396
Sources: Eurostat and Euromonitor
15 Women’s footwear accounted for 54 percent of the local currency (pound sterling) coupled with market in value in 2000. The share of this market has competition on the high street has seen the index of been maintained by the relative unit value of more footwear retail prices rise only 17 percent since 1987 expensive types of footwear like women’s boots. compared to a 67 percent inflation rate for all retail Men’s and children’s footwear accounted for 25 and goods in the same period. 21 percent respectively. Per capita spending valued € 140 (US$ 129) in 2000, which is above the EU average. France Nearly 320 million pair of shoes were sold in France in In value terms, women’s footwear accounted for 2000. According to the French Shoe Federation 49 percent of consumer expenditure in 2001, men’s equivalent amounts will be sold in the next five years. footwear for 34 percent, with children’s shoes taking the balance of 15 percent. In volume terms, a different Women’s footwear captures about 50 percent of the picture emerges because men buy fewer pair of shoes footwear sector in France, men’s footwear 33 and each year but tend to spend a higher sum of money per children’s 17 percent in terms of value. Per capita pair. Consequently, women’s footwear accounts for consumption stabilised in the period under review at 50 percent of volume sales, children’s footwear for about 5.5 pairs per person, of which 2.2 pairs leather, 23 percent and men’s footwear takes 27 percent. 2.7 pairs non-leather and 0.6 pairs of slippers. In terms of purpose, trainers and sport shoes take Per capita spending valued € 138 in 2000, which is just around 22 percent of the market with formal and casual above the EU average of € 137. footwear (both categories excluding children’s The casual footwear segment, including leather and footwear) being the other major sectors with 25 and textile uppers, was one of the fastest growing sectors of 28 percent respectively, which indicates a move from the last decade, particularly for children and young trainers to casual footwear. people. The dictates of fashion play a more important role for ladies’ and teenagers’ footwear than for men’s 3.2 Market segmentation shoes. Women buy shoes more often than men, while teenagers of both sexes are the most prolific purchasers. Segmentation by price/quality ratio The footwear market comprises several officially UK recognized sectors. In trade statistics, the market is Consumer expenditure on footwear in the UK rose by mainly categorised by end user and materials used in 1.4 percent in terms of value in the period 1997-2001 to manufacturing, in particular for uppers. almost € 9.0 billion (US$ 8.1 bn) and 5.4 percent in In terms of demand and fashion, five different market volume to 220 million pairs. The British footwear segments can be identified: market is dominated by imports. The strength of the
Table 3.5 Consumer expenditure (in volume and value) on footwear in France, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 Volume Value Volume Value Volume Value Value mln pairs € mln mln pairs € mln mln pairs € mln US$ mln
Footwear with leather uppers: Sports 7.8 312 6.8 275 7.1 284 262 Sandals 19.7 635 19.9 608 20.3 626 576 Town wear for: Ð Women 40.0 2,362 40.4 2,313 40.7 2,330 2,146 Ð Men 25.5 1,433 26.5 1,492 26.2 1,496 1,378 Ð Children 19.2 612 19.8 638 20.0 664 611 Ð Other 11.1 352 10.6 372 10.6 340 313 Footwear with textile uppers 104.6 862 99.4 816 101.2 822 757 Footwear with other uppers 54.7 1,316 56.0 1,419 56.4 1,466 1,350 Slippers 33.0 160 37.5 188 37.0 169 156 Total 315.6 8,044 316.9 8,121 319.5 8,197 7,549
Source: derived from FNICF and Eurostat
16 Table 3.6 Consumer expenditure (in volume and value) on footwear in UK, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 Volume Value Volume Value Volume Value Value mln pairs € mln mln pairs € mln mln pairs € mln US$ mln
Men’s Formal shoes and boots 10.7 705 11.4 692 11.2 669 602 Casual shoes and boots 16.9 798 18.6 1,102 19.4 1,135 1,022 Trainers and sport shoes 20.8 1,136 21.9 1,122 21.0 1,032 929 Slippers 4.9 86 5.3 108 5.1 99 89 Other 2.7 106 3.6 151 3.9 155 140 Women’s Formal shoes and boots 29.8 1,735 30.9 1,738 30.8 1,630 1,467 Casual shoes 26.7 1,086 27.8 1,165 27.5 1,107 996 Sandals 15.4 602 17.1 709 16.9 658 592 Canvas and sport shoes 16.7 681 17.7 754 16.5 641 577 Slippers 13.4 287 13.2 214 13.5 212 191 Other 2.9 105 3.8 152 3.6 148 133 Children’s Shoes and boots 18.9 854 18.7 698 19.4 721 649 Sport shoes 18.2 523 19.7 596 19.6 595 535 Sandals 5.4 63 6.0 91 6.2 94 85 Other 5.8 132 4.7 122 5.9 130 117 Total 209.2 8,899 220.4 9,414 220.5 9,026 8,124
Sources: TNS Fashion Trak and BFA
Price/Quality Fashion/level for upgrading and, on the other side, discounters 1. Low/very low price/quality Trend imitators maintain their operating at discount level. This will be 2. Low to middle price/quality Trend takers discussed in more detail in chapter 7 “Trade structure”. 3. Middle/high price, classical, Comfort, fit branded shoes fashion Segmentation by user 4. High fashion Ð price/quality, Trend makers not necessarily high Ðbased on demographics 5. High price/quality Trend takers The size and age structure of the population is one of the basic determinants of how much will be spent on The size of the segments distinguished varies per footwear. Table 2.1 in the previous chapter showed the country. Generally spoken can be said that the two composition by age groups of the population in the EU. extremes are represented in all (major) EU countries. Although this may appear to be a rough method for Concerning the other segments, some different patterns categorising the market, it is interesting because: are shown: German consumers, with the exception ¥generally speaking, different age categories have of young people, are less fashion conscious than different clothing behaviour including accessories consumers in the other major EU countries and the like footwear, and segments 3 and 2 are most important; French and ¥developments within the various age categories can Italian consumers are more oriented on segments be followed, by comparing results with projections. 4 and 3 with preferences for the “dressual” shoe The EU population has a declining birth rate and an (a combination of dress and casual); consumers in the ageing population. The category below 20 years UK and The Netherlands are mainly oriented on decreased considerably in the selected EU countries,. segments 2 and increasingly on 4. In the UK, high The categories 40 and older increase substantially. fashion can be combined with casual and sports shoes. In 2000 about 40% of the total population was older It has to be noted that price is no longer the first than 45. As the “baby boom” generation becomes older, consideration in the latter-mentioned countries as it was we see the population as a whole becoming “greyer”, for many years. apparent in the number of senior citizens above One of the consequences is that the consumer expects 55 years of age. However, the healthy and active senior retailers to have a clear image. In order to meet these citizens make up an important and growing market consumer demands, we see many shoe stores going in segment including sports and leisure activities and this
17 age group has a growing share of available disposable expenditure on footwear at 1.96 percent in 2000. income. The UK showed a modest growth in the last decade in Consumer requirements and aspirations differ by spending on footwear, while in most other countries it segment of the population. Children are an important has significantly declined. segment and purchasing patterns vary according to age. For children of the age of three years and younger, parents pay particular attention to the structure of the Table 3.7 Share of spending on footwear in major shoe (shape, rigidity, stiffeners which maintain the back EU countries, 1990-2000 (in % of total of the shoe) and, more often than not, they are ready to consumer spending) buy expensive good quality articles, to ensure a perfect development of the child’s foot. In this age group, it is 1990 1995 2000 the adults who choose the footwear. When the children are aged between three and ten, parents still seek to France 1.33 1.20 1.15 acquire a sensible quality shoe, which will not damage Germany 1.32 1.15 1.04 the foot, but choice is also guided by the size of the Italy 1.57 1.41 1.36 family budget and the child’s tastes. The Netherlands 1.05 0.94 0.93 Pre-adolescents (10-14 years of age) have a strong Spain 1.99 1.96 1.96 desire for freedom of choice. Boys have a preference United Kingdom 0.92 0.94 1.04 for sportswear and often demand a certain model or EU (15) 1.30 1.19 1.16 brand, which is particularly popular with their friends. Girls meanwhile often have long slim feet which have Sources: Retail Intelligence and own research not gained full maturity and consequently it is not always easy for them to find shoes that fit. The juniors aged 15-18 years are nearly totally independent in their Ð based on life styles choice of footwear, the only curb being the family Today, two consumers of the same age, same family budget. Sports and outdoor-wear are very much to the structure and same income may have extremely fore, fired by the popularity of brands such as Nike and different life styles, reflected in different buying habits Adidas (sportswear), Doc Martens and Caterpillar and product preferences. Clothing and footwear, (outdoor wear). Their choice is geared to social more than ever, serves as the means of expression of recognition and group membership. Meanwhile today’s personality. Character, ideas and attitude to life are parents have tastes which differ from those of their own emphasised by the way a person dresses. Combination parents. Fashion-wise, the trend is towards easy to wear fashion is eminently suited to expressing a personal and easy to care garments; city wear has become more style. relaxed and more geared to outdoor and sportswear. Today, consumers set priorities in their pattern of Products need to be versatile so that the same footwear, expenditure according to their life style. for instance, can be worn during the day at the office The increasingly individualistic nature of society will and in the evening at parties of restaurants. bring about a rise in demand for goods with an expressive value. People do not mind spending their Ð based on socio-economic factors money on such goods, while for products with a lower The slowdown in the global economy, the first signs of priority, a low price is the main criterion. which appeared in the middle of 2000 continued into 2001. Private consumption in the EU has become more Ð based on seasonal aspects subdued as consumers have become less optimistic Generally spoken, weather has an impact on the timing regarding their financial prospects. Weaker employment of expenditure, which tends to be highly seasonal. and wage prospects led to slower private consumption Unexpected weather changes influence consumers in growth. their purchasing decisions. There are significant differences in consumption habits in the varying EU countries, due to differences in 3.3 Consumption patterns and trends culture, traditions and tastes. Footwear accounted for 1.15 percent of household expenditure in the EU in Fashion and fashion trends 2000, while this percentage was 1.30 percent in 1990. Footwear fashion is strongly related to fashion Consumer expenditure was higher on sectors like developments in clothing behaviour. Fashion trends in health, housing/energy, transport/communication and footwear must necessarily be in harmony with those of leisure/education activities. clothing and fashion requires substantial investment in In 2000, spending on footwear was higher than the EU creativity: highly skilled designing, the right colours, average in Spain and Italy, while it was lower than the materials etc. Fashion in footwear can be based on a EU average in Germany, UK and The Netherlands. basic model but also on specific features like colour, Spanish consumers devoted the highest share of materials, shape, outer sole and heel-heights, decoration
18 (bows, buckles, ribbons etc.). There are also segments withstanding environmental stress and strain. where the idea of more or less permanent articles exist: A refocus on the essential excludes anything futile and safety footwear, wellingtons, rope soled sandals, fleeting. Although brands are still attractive, they are slippers etc. However even in these segments the used as a refuge rather than for show. Simplicity is pressure of fashion is not absent. enjoyed as a luxury and confirms the need for a laid-back form of personal sophistication. In all EU countries we see a switch from formal The rejection of standardisation is another striking clothing in favour of more casual wear; this trend has feature. Consumers now surf and zap, take pleasure in also affected the footwear market. Canvas casual mixing genres and slip easily from one stylistic code to footwear and sports footwear (trainers) have become another. acceptable wear for non-work situations and are now In this shifting environment, commercial success worn by every age group. depends on many factors: innovation and creativity and Slippers traditionally worn around home are partly the imaginative touch that makes all the difference. replaced by slip-on canvas shoes, espadrilles A detail, an unusual material, an original finish or way (rope-soled) or sports shoes. of wearing the item ... and the product rises out of the Waterproof and water-repellant footwear have become purely functional sphere and goes straight to the more popular in the EU, following the trends in the consumer’s heart. USA. New leather techniques and high-tech membranes are used in all kinds of shoes, mainly developed for the Colour highlights sports sector, but also applied to casual and town shoes. Delicate bleached colours and pale neutrals, which can Developments are also derived from the applications in be extended to pastels. The sophisticated colours of mountain-climbing shoes and special work shoes. cosmetics, powder and faded petals, which go with the feminine touch. Always a safe bet: traditional leather Italian producers and designers lead footwear fashion tones, symbolising refinement and elegance, beige, and dominate the market for leather fashion shoes, blond, ochre, honey, hazelnut, caramel and even very while leading brands mainly from the USA dictate dark browns. Midsummer calls for sunny, fashion in sports footwear. The fashion trends which mouth-watering colours: apricot, cherry, papaya, mint, originate there are in turn adopted and modified by lemon... A new palette of cool, grey, indeterminate foreign importers including multiple buyers, who then colours, inspired by the mineral and vegetable specify their requirements to contract manufacturers. kingdoms. A range of clinical, refreshing colours Although the number of older consumers is increasing suggesting well-being and modernity, which harmonise and this will raise the demand for better fitting high with neutrals or take a dynamic turn with bright quality shoes, there is a gradually increasing demand accents. for fashionable shoes for this age group as well. Highlights in materials The effects of fashion vary according to the type of Sensual textures and a trend towards softer leathers product. Women’s footwear is obviously the segment with natural effects. A wave of romanticism and most influenced by fashion. According to the trade, femininity is expressed in leather or textiles by floral around half of sales of women’s footwear is geared to prints, hope-chest lace and embroidery, broderie fashion. Men meanwhile are far less influenced by the anglaise, upholstery fabrics, brands and trims, refined latest styles and are said to be more interested in materials such as satin and feathers. comfort and quality. They are even ready to spend a A craze for cult materials (meaning genuine) Ð leather, little more so that their shoes last longer. denim, linen, jute as a fabric or cord, wood, straw, raffia. Oil cloth used in fun ways. Sophisticated rough The following footwear trend prognoses apply to and vintage effects which opt for the subtlety of summer 2003 and are published by the French trade fair imperfection. Midec-Paris: An interest in leather and weaving which suggest handcrafts and artistic skill just visually: leather or Changing moods mixed medium plaiting, backed leather, macramé, Prospective studies of Summer 2003 announce a decorative effects, painted leather or canvas. turning point in trends and consumer behaviour. The increased use of laser techniques in design, and in New values are emerging and current fashion behaviour cutting leather or technical materials, opens up endless is taking a gentler tone. People aspire to more softness possibilities for decoration: cut-out motifs, lacy effects, and serenity, to temper the tensions in the outside an impression of broderie anglaise, tattooing or wear world. and tear. Peace, patience, simplicity, delicacy, slowness, pleasure and hedonism are up-and-coming values. They express a desire to preserve inner balance as a way of
19 Women and young adults Children Women’s fashion hesitates between practicality and Except for the tiny tots, children’s footwear follows the pleasure. Being fashionable is no longer a matter of heel lead of the grown-ups. Children have appropriated the heights, or shapes (pointed, round and square toes get styles of their elders but added a dash of dream and along very well together), but of proportions, materials, escapism. colours and impulses, and mixing and matching genres. For future playground champions, there are still unisex City: Old favourites that are easy to walk in are still models from the sports world, just the thing for running going strong: derbies, moccasins, brogues, city training wild: boat shoes with a new twist, cycling, bowling, shoes, stylish or retro sneakers given a sophisticated boxing, running and tennis shoes in canvas or leather, clever use of materials, colour and tapered lines. low-cut or with high uppers in a colourful, graphic Simpler, flat heels prevail: urban or romantic ballerinas spirit. Two or three colours personalised with stripes, from the dance world, low-cut on mini heels, point to a topstitching, lettering, designs and, as a novelty, straps. comeback of childhood values. New uses for sandals, Mary Janet, ballerinas and city sandals, follow suit for babouches, flip flops, barefoot sandals and ethnic girls with simpler lines and a modern air. elements: beads, plaiting, feathers, embroidery and The outdoor spirit in a safari mood for girls and boys quirky mixes set the tone for a tribal or sophisticated alike, in warm sand and desert colours. Technical hybrid fashion. rangers, Mohican moccasins, adventure sandals, Midsummer: High-arched wedges are significant, genuine barefoot sandals and tough training shoes especially in wood, cord and cork. Leg-wrapping advocate an all-terrain spirit and use tough canvas sandals are in, and with them all uppers that tie high shockproof materials, rivets and treaded soles. around the leg, in rustic, poetic or even sexy versions. The ethnic trend can be found in girls’ footwear in Wooden clogs are gaining ground, in a Zen spirit, or plaits, perforations, flowers patchwork, beads, fringes, galoshes version for indoor- and outdoor wear. mirrors, sequins and incrustations. Charming or sophisticated espadrilles are still with us. The romantic wave also seduces little Lolitas with a Outsider: The Western spirit for mules and summer range of tender colours: white tinted whites and delicate boots and ankle boots. Revamped pumps are back, pastels. The hope chest spirit, broderie anglaise, floral tapered or rounded and on heels of all heights. patterns, fresh stripes, embossed effects, and pleats for Mary Janes, sneakers, sandals, tennis shoes with simply Men and young adults irresistible charm. Men are taking more care of their appearance. It is not And for midsummer, a decidedly gay, optimistic mood. longer socially out of place to be fashionable; on the Decorated sneakers, ballerinas, sandals and quirky contrary it is a sign of modernity. Reassured by the beach sandals copy grown-up styles and play around media, men are more confident in their tastes and open with iridescent and coloured translucent materials, to more daring clothing. plastic inclusions, and kitsch details: frills, ribbons, and City: The boot-maker spirit with fine soles or broad screen prints to seduce the mini pin-ups. welts is still strong, along with sophisticated city-sport models on thin soles. For everyday comfort, casual Brands slip-ons, sometimes inspired by indoor footwear, and In the EU market for footwear, manufacturers’ brands supple moccasins take the lead. Confidence in the new are important for the high-fashion, classical, health and technologies leads to new behaviours and interest, sports sectors. These shoes come mainly from European practical footwear such as sporty modes with innovative manufacturers with the exception of sports footwear. fastenings and high-performance materials. Retro sports Retail chains and importers use fantasy labels and play on authenticity in all its forms and renovate biking, brands to distinguish their collections from those of boxing, tennis shoes and city sneakers, while the competitors and also to target particular segments e.g. pioneer spirit comes to town with high uppers leather or clothing brands are increasingly used as distinguishing leather and canvas mixes. promotional features (with agreement/royalty payment Sportswear and Midsummer: The nautical look is to the brand name owner). Brand names are of little still in but with a freebooter style for moccasins, importance for cheap gym shoes, slippers and other soft-toed slip-ons, and barefoot sandals with a penchant textile and plastic shoes. One sector, that of specialist for cord, vintage buckles, brushed off leather and faded sport shoes, is dominated by well promoted brands. canvas. Comfort, protection and ergonomics are the These sport shoes are frequently promoted alongside buzzwords for walking sandals and foot-hugging fashion clothing ranges for individual sports. models with straps and functional ties. The interest in Examples of these labels are: Adidas, Nike, Reebok, the primitive arts, crafts and tradition is also found in Puma and Lotto. The main source of production for menswear, an African or Oriental trend for barefoot these sport shoes is the Far East. sandals, Berber babouches, slip-ons and thongs in plaited, plain or backed leather. Espadrilles are back with a casual, rustic or refined look.
20 4 PRODUCTION
4.1 Footwear production in the EU There are large differences between the member states in production regarding number of output as well as EU type of product. Many footwear manufacturers in the Footwear production in the EU decreased from EU are now importing uppers and to a lesser degree 1,081 million pairs in 1997 to 910 million in 2000, outer soles and other parts for final assembly in their sank for the first time below the one billion pair level in products. EU imports (from outside the Union) of parts 1999 and continued its fall with 5 percent in 2000 as it of footwear amounted to US$ 1,426 million, of which relocated to other, and especially former Eastern bloc, 85 percent uppers. Romania is the main supplier of countries. Preliminary EU production figures for 2001 uppers followed by India (for many years leading indicate a further decrease of 2.1 percent to 889,000 supplier and passed by Romania in 1999), Tunisia and pairs. Hungary. Italy remained EU’s leading footwear producer with Almost all sports and sports leisure shoes continue to almost 43 percent of total EU production, followed by be made in the Far East (almost 80% of the global Spain (22%). Other major producers are Portugal (12%) production!) and Eastern Europe, including production and France (11%). Around 280,000 employees worked for the major international manufacturers such as Nike, in the EU footwear industry in 2000, while this number Reebok, Adidas, Fila, Hi-Tec and Puma. was still 325,000 in 1995. The footwear industry is Europe accounts for 20 percent of the world’s relatively labour-intensive, added to which increasing production of leather uppers, for an important part costs and the competition of cheap imports have fashion and quality production coming mainly from pressed manufacturers to specialise in niches (luxury, Italy, Portugal and Spain. safety or orthopaedic footwear) or to shift production to abroad via the outward processing route (OPT). Germany The footwear manufacturing industry in two countries, German production of footwear has been on the decline Italy and The Netherlands showed (limited) positive for many years, as imports from low labour cost developments, but at the other end of the scale, countries have increased. HDS, Germany’s footwear significant reductions had been recorded by many other industry association, has released figures for 2001 EU producers. For example, UK footwear production showing a 9.6 percent increase in exports to DM 1.67 plummeted nearly 46 percent, Belgium 25%, billion (US$ 785 million). In terms of production, the France 13%, Germany 9% and Spain 4%. good growth in exports counteracted the weakness in
Table 4.1 Production of footwear by EU member states 1997-2000 (in million pairs)
1997 1998 1999 2000 % change % change 1997/2000 1999/2000
Italy 460.0 425.0 380.9 390.8 - 15 + 3 Spain 207.5 220.9 212.9 203.6 - 2 - 4 Portugal 103.0 105.6 107.6 106.7 + 4 - 1 France 135.4 125.5 114.6 99.7 - 26 - 13 Germany 40.4 41.5 39.8 35.8 - 11 - 9 UK 88.9 82.8 62.9 34.1 - 62 - 46 Austria 11.9 10.6 10.7 10.2 - 14 - 5 Denmark 10.2 10.5 10.2 9.9 - 3 - 3 Greece 11.5 10.0 9.5 9.4 - 18 - 1 The Netherlands 5.6 3.6 3.8 4.1 - 27 + 8 Finland 3.7 3.9 3.7 3.5 - 5 - 5 Ireland 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 0 0 Sweden 1.0 0.9 1.0 1.0 0 0 Belgium/Luxembourg 0.9 0.8 0.7 0.5 - 44 - 25 Total EU 1081.0 1042.6 959.3 910.3 - 16 - 5
Source: CEC
21 Table 4.2 Overview of German footwear industry, 1998-2001
1998 1999 2000 2001
Plants (average number) 161 151 138 133 Employees (average number) 18,577 17,766 16,964 16,457 Volume of output (’000 pairs) 41,500 39,840 35,820 33,884 Value of output (DM bn) 6.56 6.30 5.95 5.92 Domestic sales (DM bn) 4.92 4.73 4.40 4.28 Foreign sales (DM bn) 1.64 1.57 1.52 1.67
Source: HDS the domestic market where sales fell 2.7 percent to Italy DM 4.28 billion (US$ 2.0 billion). Italy plays a major role in global footwear production, in spite of high costs of labour and is concentrated on Salamander is the biggest shoe manufacturer in Europe quality, well designed footwear in leather. Italy is (€ 1.29 billion in 2001) and includes besides the brand Europe’s largest producer of footwear (ahead of Spain, Salamander: Lurchi, Yellowmiles, Sioux, Betty Barclay France and Portugal) and fifth largest on a global scale. and Apollo. The Salamander Group also has a retail However, Italian footwear production decreased from division with 115 shops in Germany, as well as abroad 460 million pairs in 1997 to 375 million in 2001. (Austria, France and East European countries) Italian footwear manufacturers ended with a turnover of Many German manufacturers are doing well in the € 8.3 billion (US$ 7.6 bn) in 2000, 11 percent more so-called “health and comfort” sector, of which than 1999, with 390 million pairs produced (up 2.4%). Birkenstock and Ganter are well-known with important In 2001, production fell again just like in the period exports to respectively the USA and Japan. 1997-1999. This period showed falls of respectively Imports of footwear parts (uppers and soles) for final 8 and 10 percent, while production figures in 2001 assembly in Germany increased from US$ 316 million reached 375.2 million pairs (3.8 percent less than 2000) in 1999 to 360 million in 2000, coming mainly from at a value of € 8,670 million (+4.8%). This downturn Portugal, Italy, India and Hungary. reflects a deterioration in export sales in the face of intense competition, especially from low-cost countries The Netherlands and higher imports, which have made it increasingly Footwear production in The Netherlands accounted for difficult for Italian producers to retain their shares of almost 6 percent of the domestic market in 2000. the home market. Export figures showed negative signs The number of footwear manufacturers in the compared to the previous year with 353.7 million pairs Netherlands has declined too and numbers only (- 2.4%) at a value of € 7.231 million (equal to an 20 companies (with more than 20 employees) with an increase of 9.5 percent). The average price of exported annual output of 4 million pairs, including production footwear (€ 20.44 per pair) has increased by abroad. The leading companies like Van Lier, 12.1 percent. The quantity of goods manufactured and Van Bommel, Greve, Berkelmans, Avang and Durea are exported has dropped considerably whilst this trend has specialised in the more expensive footwear. not affected the total value and average prices;
Table 4.3 Overview of the footwear industry in The Netherlands, 1997-2000
1997 1998 1999 2000
Plants (average number) 238 206 195 191 Employees (average number) 1,814 1,734 1,688 1,650 Volume of output (’000 pairs) 5,550 3,650 3,800 3,925 Value of output (€ mln) 110 113 114 120 Domestic sales (€ mln) 77 77 78 80 Foreign sales (€ mln) 33 36 36 40
Source: CBS
22 Table 4.4 Overview of Italian footwear industry, 1997-2001
1997 1998 1999 2000 2001
Plants (average number) 8,880 8,510 7,660 7,570 7,500 Employees (average number) 120,500 119,060 114,015 111,650 113,100 Production (in mln pairs) 460.0 425.0 380.9 389.9 375.2 Value of output (€ million) 8,052 7,907 7,417 8,269 8,670 Domestic sales (€ mln) 2,128 2,064 1,915 1,663 1,439 Foreign sales (€ mln) 5,924 5,843 5,502 6,606 7,231
Source: ANCI the overall Italian offer reached a higher bracket with Industries and Polygone. Eram is not only the leading each product sector being positioned on a higher level, manufacturer but also the leading retailer in France. although to different degrees. Bacou and Jalatte are manufacturers of safety footwear, besides other safety products. Bata is active in around The Italian footwear industry is very fragmented. 70 countries as a manufacturing, wholesaling and The number of companies amounted to 7,500 in 2000. retailing organisation. Mephisto is specialised in Footwear producers employ an average of about walking shoes and an estimated 85 percent of its 15 persons. In 2001, leather accounted for 86 percent of turnover is covered by exports. The other companies are total production value and 70 percent of the total all active in fashionable footwear, of which Allemand volume of 375 million pairs. All the main types of Industries is the leading children’s footwear footwear suffered falls in output. In particular, manufacturer. production of sports footwear and textiles uppers fell. Just like manufacturers in Italy, French companies imported an increasing degree of uppers and soles for Many companies are now importing uppers and soles (final) assembly. In 1995 these imports amounted to for final assembly in Italy. In 1995 imports of these US$ 140 million and even 213 million in 2000, coming amounted to US$ 404 million, while they increased to mainly from Tunisia (27%) and Morocco (18%), 652 million in 1999 and to 740 million in 2000. followed by Italy, Spain and India.. Romania is the main supplier of uppers and soles with an import share of 37 percent (in terms of value), at a Leading categories in French footwear production in distance followed by Tunisia, Albania, India, Bulgaria 2000 were footwear with leather uppers (47 million and Hungary. pairs or 47 percent of total production) and footwear with uppers of textiles (36 million pairs or 36 percent). France The remaining 17 percent included footwear with France is the fourth leading shoe manufacturer in the rubber or plastic uppers. In terms of value, the leading EU. It ranked third for many years but was passed by product group was footwear with leather uppers Portugal in 2000. French production decreased (67% of total production). 20 percent in the period 1998-2000 to less than The trend to move production to foreign sites is likely 100 million pairs in 2000 with a value of FF 11.8 bn. to continue as a cost-saving measure. The sluggishness The ten leading companies are Eram, Bacou, Bata, of the home market and the intense competition from Mephisto, Pindière, Lafuma, Aigle, Jalatte, Allemand the low-wage countries has led French manufacturers to
Table 4.5 Overview of French footwear industry, 1997-2000
1997 1998 1999 2000
Plants (average number) 238 226 212 191 Employees (average number) 26,300 24,800 23,300 20,800 Volume of output (million pairs) 135.4 125.5 114.6 99.7 Value of output (FFr.mln) 14,000 13,800 13,200 11,800 Foreign sales (FFr.mln) 5,220 5,470 5,780 5,140
Source: CNC
23 react in order to survive. A number of companies has shoe company in terms of sales. The company created brands along with a selective distribution or continues to introduce new ranges, while at the same specialised in specific products, such as children’s time refining classics. R Griggs & Company Ltd, which footwear. Other strategies consist of moving into manufactures the Dr Martens shoe range, is the second specialised niches like safety wear, hiking and mountain most successful shoe company. Other manufacturers are boots. Church & Co, Start Rite, Pentland-Group, Peter Black, Lambert Howarth etc. UK Clarks and Church are significant retailers as well as For a number of years, the UK was the fifth largest manufacturers. producer of footwear in the EU. Germany passed the UK in terms of volume in 2000, after a fall of Imports of uppers and soles for final assembly into the 46 percent in UK output. In 2001 around 12,000 people UK increased strongly until 1998. In 1999 the imports were employed in completed footwear manufacturing, of uppers more or less stabilised at US$193 million, with perhaps a further 5,000 in supplier and allied whereas ten years ago this was only US$ 45 million. trades. In 2000, these imports decreased to US$ 177 million, UK production of footwear has been in decline for caused by the considerable fall in domestic production. many years (103 million pairs in 1995 and 34 million in The main suppliers of uppers and soles were India 2000) as imports from low labour cost countries have (31% of total imports), Thailand (24%), China (18%) increased. The closure of UK’s largest retail chain, BSC and Brazil (6%) in 2000. (British Shoe Corporation) a subsidiary of the Sears Group in 1999, resulted in heavily discounted sales of 4.2 EU Outward Processing Trade large quantities of stock by retailers. The severe price The restructuring policy of many manufacturing competition has put pressure on manufacturers, which companies in the EU has also involved the outsourcing have responded by closing some or all UK factories and of more labour intensive operations in area inside the sourcing overseas to retain market share. However, this EU (Portugal, Ireland, Spain and Greece) and outside action has tended to lower footwear prices further. the EU, like Central and East European countries C&J Clark International Ltd is the UK’s top-ranked (CEECs), Mediterranean countries and Asian countries.
Table 4.6 Overview of UK’s footwear industry, 1997-2001
1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 est
Plants (average number) 741 676 670 535 530 Employees (average number) 22,980 21,300 20,700 17,500 17,000 Production (in ’000 pairs) 88,900 82,800 62,900 34,100 33,800 Value of output (£ bn) 1,233 1,068 1,015 608 584 Foreign sales (£ bn) 422 382 380 233 230
Source: British Footwear Association
Table 4.7 EU developments in OPT of footwear in total and by trade partners, 2000
2000 US$ mln Leading trade partners in 2000
EU 556 Romania (41%), Hungary (13%), Albania (12%), Croatia (5%) of which: Italy 386 Romania (54%), Albania (17%), Serbia Montenegro (5%), Croatia (4%) Germany 83 Hungary (58%), Czech Rep. (28%), Croatia (10%), Moldova (6%) Denmark 19 Poland (72%), Hungary (9%), Lithuania (8%) France 18 Tunisia (26%), Morocco (24%), Slovakia (23%), Croatia (9%) UK 12 India (77%), Thailand (17%) Other EU countries 38 Romania (43%), India (18%), Hong Kong (9%), Slovakia (8%)
Source: Eurostat
24 This policy, outward processing trade (OPT), gives EU manufacturers the possibility to maintain control over the management and quality of the outsourcing operations and to respond quickly to changing market demands. EU OPT for footwear increased steadily in the period 1990-1998 from US$ 308 to 604 million, followed by a small decrease of less than 2 percent in 1999 and a strong decrease of 16 percent in 2000.
Almost 90 percent of total OPT value came from CEECs. The most important OPT country outside Europe was India (2.4%), followed by the Mediterranean countries Morocco (0.9%) and Tunisia (0.9%). OPT with India decreased from US$ 26.7 million in 1998 to 12.7 million in 2000. OPT with Tunisia almost halved in one year: from US$ 9.5 million in 1999 to 4.8 million in 2000, while imports from Morocco stabilised at US$ 5.0 million.
25 5 IMPORTS
5.1 Total imports EU imports of footwear decreased by 4.4 percent in the Before we take a look at the import figures for footwear period 1999-2000. EU countries can be divided, as to into the EU, it should be noted that all data presented in developments in value of imports during this period, this chapter are official trade figures provided by into: Eurostat. We therefore refer to the remarks in chapter 1, ¥Very strongly decreased imports (more than 10%) explaining that official statistics are not always in Portugal, Finland, Germany and Belgium; all-embracing and should be interpreted with care. ¥ Strongly falling imports (between 5-10 %) in UK It should also be noted that the statistics do not take and Austria; into account the considerable volume of fraudulent ¥ Slowly falling imports (less than 5%) in Sweden and imports of Chinese products via other countries. Greece; Anti-fraud investigations, among others by the ¥ Slowly growing imports (less than 5%) in Italy, European Anti Fraud Office (OLAF ), on this issue for France, The Netherlands, Denmark and Ireland; instance in verifying certificates of origin, learned that ¥ Booming imports (more than 10%) in Spain. large volumes of shoes originating in China were declared as originating in certain countries of the Developments in imports of footwear vary strongly per Middle and Far East. EU country. This depends on several factors like size Control on trade policy measures and other instruments and structure of domestic production of footwear, against fraud are discussed in chapter 1.2 of the EU the possibilities and size of re-exports and Strategic Marketing Guide. developments in demand as described in chapter 3.1.
EU The growth in Spanish imports covered for an Total EU (15) imports of footwear amounted to important part leather shoes and special sports footwear. US$ 17.9 billion (€ 19.43 bn) in 2000. Germany International brands came from other EU countries remained the leading importer, with an import share of (mainly Belgium, Portugal, Italy and The Netherlands) 22 percent in terms of value, followed by UK (17%), while lower priced products came from developing France (15%), Italy (13%) and The Netherlands (8 %). countries (mainly Vietnam, China and Morocco). Belgium (6%) ranked sixth, followed by Austria (4%). Spanish production satisfies the demand for medium and medium-high articles.
Figure 5.1 EU import of footwear by member states, 1996-2000
Finland
Greece
Ireland
Portugal
Sweden
Denmark 2000 Spain 1998 Austria 1996 Belgium/Lux.
Netherlands
Italy
France
UK
Germany
01000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 US$ million
26 Table 5.1 Developments in EU imports of footwear by member states in terms of value, 1997-2000
1997 1998 1999 2000 % change % change US$ mln US$ mln US$ mln US$ mln 1997-2000 1999-2000
Germany 4,776 4,580 4,503 4,002 - 16.2% - 11.1% UK 3,141 3,143 3,326 3,005 - 4.3% - 9.7% France 2,778 2,802 2,711 2,763 - 0.5% + 1.9% Italy 2,174 2,177 2,298 2,395 + 10.2% + 4.2% Netherlands 1,150 1,201 1,337 1,360 + 18.3% + 1.7% Belgium/Lux. 1,296 1,117 1,266 1,139 - 12.1% - 10.0% Austria 824 808 824 761 - 7.6% - 7.6% Spain 441 615 556 638 + 44.7% + 14.7% Denmark 466 477 431 437 - 6.2% + 1.4% Sweden 415 416 393 385 - 7.2% - 2.0% Portugal 317 341 353 300 - 5.4% - 15.0% Greece 291 280 257 253 - 13.1% - 1.6% Ireland 254 259 252 260 + 2.4% + 3.2% Finland 196 188 179 157 - 19.9% - 12.3% EU (15) 18,519 18,404 18,686 17,855 - 3.6% - 4.4%
Source: derived from Eurostat
The fall in Portuguese imports was mainly caused by 3rd and 4th in 2000 before China. China remained the the product group parts of footwear, of which imports EU’s leading supplier in the product groups plastic/or fell from US$ 153 million in 1999 to 116 million in rubber footwear for sports (39%) and outdoor (27%), 2000. while Vietnam in the latter category accounted for 20 percent of total imports. Sports footwear with uppers About 52 percent of the total value of EU imports came of textiles came mainly from China (26%), Belgium from other EU countries in 2000, mainly from Italy and Vietnam (each country 14%), indoor footwear with (17% of total EU imports and 32% of intra-EU uppers of textiles from China (26%) and Spain (22%) imports). Other major suppliers to the EU market were and outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles from Portugal (7%), Belgium (6%) and Spain (6%), followed Vietnam (25%) and China (19%). by The Netherlands (5%). The total import share of A more detailed overview of EU import sources is other EU countries decreased, this percentage being given in appendix 2.2, while the role of developing 11.8 percent in 2000 and 12.5 percent in1998. Imports countries will be discussed in chapter 5.3. from the leading EU supplier Italy decreased by 20.9 percent in the period 1998-2000 to just under US$ 3 billion in 2000, while imports from Portugal decreased 16.6 percent and imports from Spain 18.4 percent in the same period. This means that Portugal ranked fourth (in terms of value) under China and runner-up Vietnam. Imports from Belgium and The Netherlands increased respectively 2.1 and 28.5 percent in the period 1998-2000.
EU imports from developing countries increased in terms of volume (+ 19%) and value (+ 11%) against lower prices (- 6%). Developing countries gain from the decreased intra-EU imports, just like other countries from outside the EU: CEECs (mainly Romania) and Asian countries (mainly Taiwan). Italy remained the leading supplier to the EU market in the category outdoor footwear with uppers of leather with 141 million pairs in 2000, above Portugal (61 million pairs). Vietnamn (55 mln pairs) passed Spain (44 mln pairs) in 2000, these countries ranked
27 Table 5.2 Imports of footwear into the EU by area of origin, in terms of volume and average import prices, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 % change % change mln Average mln Average mln Average 1998-2000 1998-2000 pairs price pairs price pairs price in volume in price in US$ in US$ in US$
Total 1,473 12.49 1,582 11.81 1,627 10.97 + 10.5% - 12.2% of which from: Other EU countries 651 18.20 665 15.56 660 14.17 + 1.4% - 22.1% Developing countries 661 8.43 731 8.05 785 7.90 + 18.8% - 6.3% Total other countries 161 13.99 186 13.21 182 12.55 + 13.0% - 10.3%
Source: Eurostat
Total imports by selected markets within the EU Asian developing countries like Vietnam, Cambodia, Malaysia and Macao and to a much smaller degree Germany CEECs, like Romania, Ukraine, Poland and Hungary. Germany is the largest EU importer of footwear and accounted for 22 percent in terms of value in 2000. Italy retained its leading position as leading supplier to However, this percentage was just above 30 percent in the German market in terms of volume, despite a slight 1995. Germany imported footwear at a value of fall (- 1.5%) in 1999 and a strong fall of 11 percent in US$ 4.0 billion (€ 4.3 bn) in 2000, of which 44 percent 2000. Imports from Vietnam rose from 34.6 million was sourced outside the EU. Of the total footwear pairs in 1998 to 53.2 mln in 2000, while imports from imports, 31 percent came from developing countries. China (ranked 2nd in 1998 and 3rd in 1999 and 2000) Between 1998 and 2000, German imports decreased by fell from 46.0 mln in 1998 to 44.3 in 2000. Imports 12.6 percent in terms of value and increased 3.6 percent from EU countries varied considerably: imports from in terms of volume. Portugal (4th) increased slightly and from The general trend in German imports of footwear in the The Netherlands(5th) strongly (14.8 million pairs in period under review was growing imports in volume 1998 and 20.4 mln in 2000), while imports from Spain against much lower prices: imports fell 12.6 percent in (7th) and France (12th) decreased in the period value and grew 3.7 percent in volume, which indicates 1998-2000, respectively 25% to 19.6 mln and 15.7 percent lower prices. In 1999 imports grew in 33 percent to 7.1 mln pairs. terms of volume (+ 6.1%) but fell 2.3 percent in 2000. China was the leading supplier to the German market in The period 1998-2000 showed a decreasing import sports footwear and indoor footwear with textile uppers share from other EU countries to 46 percent in volume in 2000. and 56 percent in value of total German imports in Italy was the leading supplier of Germany in the 2000, while these percentages were respectively 52 and product groups waterproof outdoor, indoor footwear 61 in 1998. This was caused by decreased imports from with plastic uppers, indoor and outdoor footwear with Italy, Spain Austria, France and the UK, in favour of leather uppers and indoor footwear with textile uppers.
Table 5.3 Imports of total footwear into Germany by area of origin, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 mln Average mln Average mln Average % change % change pairs price pairs price pairs price in volume in price in US$ in US$ in US$ 1998-2000 1998-2000
Total 338.1 13.55 358.8 12.55 350.5 11.42 + 3.7% - 15.7% of which from: Other EU countries 175.5 15.97 175.1 15.20 162.3 14.70 - 7.5% - 8.0% Developing countries 122.1 9.78 139.9 8.81 146.6 8.49 + 20.1% - 13.2% Other countries 40.5 14.38 43.8 13.69 41.6 14.82 + 2.7% + 3.1%
Source: Eurostat
28 Table 5. 4 Leading (5) suppliers of footwear to Germany for major product groups in 2000 (in thousand pairs)
2000 Five leading suppliers in 2000:
Plastic or rubber footwear (import share in % between brackets) Ðwaterproof outdoor 7,296 Italy (48), China (35), Czech Rep. (6), Netherlands (4), France (2). Ð sports 3,819 Italy (31), China (22), Netherlands (9), Belgium (9), Vietnam (8). Ð indoor 3,219 Italy (45), Poland (11). Netherlands (7), Spain (6), Austria (6). Ð other outdoor 77,926 Vietnam (28), China (20), Italy (18), Netherlands (7), Cambodia (3). Footwear with leather uppers: Ð sports 4,799 Slovakia (22), Vietnam (16), China (16), Italy (14), Indonesia (7). Ð indoor 3,955 Italy (23), Portugal (16), Spain (12), Moldova (11), Austria (8). Ð outdoor, outer soles of leather 10,545 Italy (52), Spain (12), Vietnam (8), Portugal (4), India (4). Ð outdoor, other outer soles 148,838 Italy (21), Vietnam (11), Portugal (10), Spain (7), Hungary (5). Footwear with textile uppers: Ð sports 13,342 China (38), Vietnam (18), Belgium (9), Indonesia (8), Netherlands (7). Ð indoor, rubber/plastic outer soles 17,454 Italy (15), Spain (14), France (13), Portugal (13), Turkey (9). Ð indoor, other outer soles 11,499 China (62), Poland (16), Netherlands (15), Belgium (2), Italy (1). Ð outdoor, outer soles rubber/plastic 30,590 Vietnam (31), Italy (16), Netherlands (7), China (7), Cambodia (5). Other 17,238 Total imports of footwear 350,520 Italy (21), Vietnam (15), China (13), Portugal (6), The Netherlands (6).
Source: Eurostat
United Kingdom despite a considerable fall in exports to the UK in 2000. The UK is the second largest EU importer in terms of Italy retained its position as leading supplier to the UK value and accounted for almost 17 percent of the EU market in terms of value, despite a fall of 8 percent in total imports of footwear in 2000. Imports of footwear 2000 to US$ 532 million. Other main EU suppliers to amounted to US$ 3.0 billion (€ 3.3 bn) in 2000. the UK were Portugal, Spain, Belgium and British importers sourced around 50 percent of The Netherlands. Imports from Spain and footwear in non-EU countries (in 1999 this percentage The Netherlands increased while imports from Belgium was 43%). UK imports fell in the period 1997-2000 by and Portugal decreased in 2000. Imports from the major 4.3 percent, which was somewhat higher than the EU Asian suppliers (China, Vietnam, India and Indonesia) average of 3.6 percent. Of the total imports, almost increased considerably in the period under review. 46 percent came from developing countries. Italy was the leading supplier to the UK market in In 2000, China and Vietnam passed Italy as leading outdoor footwear with uppers of leather in 2000. suppliers to the UK market in terms of volume. China was the leading supplier to the UK in sports China ranked 2nd and Vietnam 3rd in 1998 and 1999. footwear and indoor footwear with textile uppers and Spain (4th) and Portugal (5th) retained their positions sports and outdoor plastic or rubber footwear.
Table 5.5 Imports of total footwear into UK by area of origin, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 mln Average mln Average mln Average % change % change pairs price pairs price pairs price in volume in price in US$ in US$ in US$ 1998-2000 1998-2000
Total 262.5 11.97 292.2 11.38 276.0 10.89 + 5.1% - 9.0% of which from: Other EU countries 123.1 15.08 135.3 13.97 101.4 14.75 - 17.6% - 2.2% Developing countries 127.2 9.05 142.7 8.81 162.0 8.45 + 27.4% - 6.6% Other countries 12.2 11.07 14.2 10.76 12.6 10.76 + 3.3% - 2.8%
Source: Eurostat
29 Table 5. 6 Leading (5) suppliers of footwear to UK for major product groups in 2000 (in thousand pairs)
2000 Five leading suppliers in 2000:
Plastic or rubber footwear (import share in % between brackets) Ðwaterproof outdoor 1,900 Italy ( 31), China (29), France (10), Lithuania (7), Romania (4). Ð sports 6,604 China (34), Ireland (14), Indonesia (13), Vietnam (11), Italy (10). Ð indoor 1,534 Spain (25), China (21), Vietnam (16), Belgium (8), Malaysia (5). Ð other outdoor 50,294 China (34), Vietnam (26), Indonesia (9), Italy (7), Taiwan (5). Footwear with leather uppers: Ð sports 6,543 Vietnam (17), Italy (15), Indonesia (14), China (12), USA (8). Ð outdoor, outer soles of leather 18,636 Italy (39), Portugal (24), India (10), Spain (7), Netherlands (5). Ð outdoor, other outer soles 96,113 Italy (17), Portugal (12), Vietnam (11), India (9), China (9). Footwear with textile uppers: Ð sports 16,757 China (31), Vietnam (17), Indonesia (12), Belgium (10), Pakistan (7). Ð indoor, rubber/plastic outer soles 19,092 Spain (40), China (30), Vietnam (11), Sri Lanka (6), USA (4). Ð indoor, other outer soles 17,289 China (84), Vietnam (4),Sri Lanka (3), Hong Kong (2), Spain (1). Ð outdoor, outer soles rubber/plastic 19,258 Vietnam (44), Spain (12), Italy (9), China (5), India (4). Other 22,014 Total imports of footwear 276,034 China (22), Vietnam (15), Italy (14), Spain (8), Portugal (7).
Source: Eurostat
Spain retained its leading position in some indoor Spain (11%), Belgium (10%), Portugal (9%) and footwear sectors. Vietnam became the leading supplier The Netherlands (8%). The leading non-EU suppliers of sports footwear with leather uppers in 2000 and were Vietnam (7%) and China (6%). Other suppliers to passed many countries including China. France were Tunisia (3%), Germany (3%), Morocco (3%), Romania (2%), UK (2%) and Indonesia (2%). France Imports from Italy decreased in the period 1997-1999 France accounted for 15 percent of EU imports of but grew by 4 percent to US$ 622 million in 2000. footwear in 2000. Around 52 percent in volume and Imports from the other EU countries increased too with 33 percent in value of French imports was sourced the exception of Portugal. Imports from all mentioned outside the EU, while 47 percent in volume developing countries increased. Other developing representing 28 percent in value came from developing countries with booming exports to France were countries. Cambodia (US$ 1.6 million in 1998 and 14.4 million in French imports of footwear fell by 1.4 percent in value 2000!) and, with somewhat less growth, Slovakia, terms between 1998 and 2000, despite a small growth Bangladesh and Macao. of 1.9 percent in 2000. In 2000, most French imports of footwear (in terms of In 1999, China passed Italy as leading supplier to the value) came from the other EU members: Italy (23%), French market in terms of volume. In 2000, China
Table 5.7 Imports of total footwear into France by area of origin, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 mln Average mln Average mln Average % change % change pairs price pairs price pairs price in volume in price in US$ in US$ in US$ 1998-2000 1998-2000
Total 252.1 11.11 253.9 10.67 278.7 9.91 + 10.6% - 10.8% of which from: Other EU countries 127.6 15.30 122.2 14.88 133.9 13.74 + 4.9% - 10.2% Developing countries 113.1 6.20 118.0 6.24 131.0 5.93 + 15.8% - 4.4% Other countries 11.4 13.02 13.7 11.17 13.8 10.61 + 21.1% - 18.5%
Source: Eurostat
30 Table 5. 8 Leading (5) suppliers of footwear to France for major product groups in 2000 (in thousand pairs)
2000 Five leading suppliers in 2000:
Plastic or rubber footwear (import share in % between brackets) Ðwaterproof outdoor 3,730 Italy (45), Slovakia (14), China (13), Morocco (8), Netherlands (4). Ð sports 5,263 Romania (25), China (23), Italy (23), Belgium (8), Indonesia (4). Ð other outdoor 52,762 China (21), Vietnam (21), Italy (14), Belgium (10), Netherlands (6). Footwear with leather uppers Ð sports 3,963 Italy (23), Spain (19), Belgium (15), Netherlands (11), UK (9). Ð outdoor, outer soles of leather 14,889 Italy (36), Spain (25), Portugal (19), Bulgaria (5), Morocco (3). Ð outdoor, other outer soles 77,066 Italy (22), Portugal (14), Spain (11), Netherlands (9), Vietnam (9). Footwear with textile uppers Ð sports 18,362 Belgium (22), China (20), Netherlands (15), Vietnam (8), Italy (7). Ð indoor, rubber/plastic outer soles 26,428 China (39), Spain (18), Vietnam (10), Morocco (5), Czech Rep. (5). Ð indoor, other outer soles 21,311 China (83), Belgium (5), Netherlands (4), Italy (3), Germany (2). Ð outdoor, outer soles rubber/plastic 37,387 Vietnam (28), China (13), Italy (11), Belgium (7), Spain (6). Other 17,581 Total imports of footwear 278,742 China (20), Italy (16), Vietnam (12), Spain (9), Belgium (8).
Source: Eurostat improved its position as leading supplier to the French Italy market in terms of volume. Imports from China rose In 2000, Italy imported footwear for US$ 2,395 million from 51.7 million pairs in 1999 to 55.7 in 2000, while (€ 2,598 mln) of which 77 percent was sourced outside imports from Italy fell from 45.9 million in 1999 to the EU, 39 percent from developing countries and 44.1 in 2000. Vietnam retained its position and ranked 38 percent from other countries. 3rd during the whole period 1998-2000, followed by Besides The Netherlands and France, Italy increased its Spain, Belgium, The Netherlands and Portugal. imports of footwear among the major EU countries. Imports rose in terms of volume by 5.5 percent, and by Italy, Spain and Portugal were leading suppliers to the 4.2 percent in terms of value in 2000, after a much French market in the category outdoor footwear with bigger growth of respectively 11.9 and 5.6 percent in uppers of leather in 2000. 1999. China was the leading supplier to France in the product Romania (25%) was the leading supplier of footwear groups plastic or rubber outdoor footwear and indoor (in value) to Italy in 2000, of which 55 percent footwear with textile uppers. Sports footwear with concerned OPT. Other suppliers to Italy included upper of textiles came mainly from Belgium and China Belgium (8%), China (8%),Tunisia (6%), Vietnam and outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles from (5%), Bulgaria (4%) and several countries with a share Vietnam. of around 3 percent, such as The Netherlands, Albania, Spain, India and France.
Table 5.9 Imports of total footwear into Italy by area of origin, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 mln Average mln Average mln Average % change % change pairs price pairs price pairs price in volume in price in US$ in US$ in US$ 1998-2000 1998-2000
Total 168.2 12.94 188.2 12.21 198.5 12.06 + 18.0% - 6.8% of which from: Other EU countries 25.7 19.09 31.2 18.84 29.2 18.66 + 13.6% - 2.3% Developing countries 97.4 8.98 106.0 8.21 111.4 8.32 + 14.4% - 7.3% Other countries 45.1 17.99 51.0 16.66 57.9 15.94 + 28.4% - 11.4%
Source: Eurostat
31 China retained its leading position as leading supplier Indonesia, Thailand and Spain decreased in 2000, while to the Italian market in terms of volume. imports from Vietnam, Tunisia and Bulgaria increased. Imports from China rose from 43.7 million pairs in China was the leading supplier to the Italian market in 1998 to 54.2 mln in 2000, while imports from Romania several types of footwear, except waterproof outdoor (ranked 2nd during the period under review) grew from and footwear with leather uppers. Vietnam became the 26.7 mln in 1998 to 38.5 in 2000. Belgium ranked 4th new leading supplier of sports footwear with leather after Vietnam, followed by Tunisia, Indonesia, uppers and passed China, while the leading position in Thailand, Spain and Bulgaria. Imports from Belgium, the other product groups was taken by Romania.
Table 5.10 Leading (5) suppliers of footwear to Italy for major product groups in 2000 (in thousand pairs)
2000 Five leading suppliers in 2000:
Plastic or rubber footwear (import share in % between brackets) Ðwaterproof outdoor 2,852 Romania (41), China (30), Serb. Monten. (9), Czech R. (4), France (4). Ð sports 9,219 China (54), Vietnam (6), Belgium (6), Hungary (5), Bosnia/H. (5). Ð other outdoor 30,838 China (28), Thailand (17), Indonesia (11), Vietnam (11), Belgium (6). Footwear with leather uppers Ð sports 5,152 Vietnam (20), China (18), Indonesia (9), Germany (7), Romania (6). Ð outdoor, outer soles of leather 7,112 Romania (32), Spain (9), Serb. Monten. (9), Tunisia (8), India (6). Ð outdoor, other outer soles 54,408 Romania (37), Vietnam (6), Belgium (5), Bosnia Herz. (4), Bulgaria (4). Footwear with textile uppers Ð sports 18,556 China (25), Belgium (20), Vietnam (18), Netherlands (7), Indonesia (6). Ð indoor, rubber/plastic outer soles 7,901 China (45), Spain (19), Vietnam (8), Bulgaria (8), Poland (5). Ð indoor, other outer soles 18,926 China (83), Romania (6), France (4), Tunisia (1), Ukraine (1). Ð outdoor, outer soles rubber/plastic 22,983 China (38), Romania (20), Vietnam (13), Spain (5), Indonesia (3). Other 20,579 Total imports of footwear 198,526 China (27), Romania (19), Vietnam (8), Belgium (5), Bosnia/Herz. (2).
Source: Eurostat
The Netherlands value. Chinese imports rose from US$ 129 million in The Netherlands ranked fifth as EU importer of 1998 to 213 million in 2000 and reached an import footwear with an import value of US$ 1,360 million share of 15.6 percent, followed by Belgium (13%), (€ 1,475 mln), of which 55 percent came from non-EU Italy (11%), Vietnam (9%), Germany (7%), Hong Kong sources and 39 percent from developing countries. (6%), Portugal (6%) and Indonesia (4%). Between 1998 and 2000, Netherlands imports increased by 13.3 percent in terms of value and volume. China improved its leading position as the leading China became Netherlands’ leading supplier in terms of supplier to the Netherlands market in terms of volume.
Table 5.11 Imports of total footwear into The Netherlands by area of origin, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 mln Average mln Average mln Average % change % change pairs price pairs price pairs price in volume in price in US$ in US$ in US$ 1998-2000 1998-2000
Total 115.1 10.43 134.0 9.98 130.4 10.43 + 13.3% = of which from: Other EU countries 31.3 17.53 37.1 15.17 36.3 16.80 + 16.0% - 4.2% Developing countries 57.3 6.56 67.3 6.33 74.1 7.21 + 29.3% + 9.9% Other countries 26.5 10.41 29.6 11.32 20.0 10.81 - 24.5% + 3.8%
Source: Eurostat
32 Table 5. 12 Leading (5) suppliers of footwear to The Netherlands for major product groups in 2000 (in thousand pairs)
2000 Five leading suppliers in 2000:
Plastic or rubber footwear (import share in % between brackets) Ðwaterproof outdoor 1,338 Italy (44), Portugal (32), China (7), France (4), Germany (4). Ð sports 1,632 China (32), Belgium (15), Italy (12), Hong Kong (9), Taiwan (8). Ð other outdoor 29,833 China (33), Vietnam (17), Taiwan (7), Italy (6), Romania (5). Footwear with leather uppers: Ð sports 2,362 China (16), Vietnam (16), Germany (13), Taiwan (11), Italy (9) . Ð outdoor, outer soles of leather 3,095 Italy (42), Portugal (16), Spain (12), Germany (6), India (4). Ð outdoor, other outer soles 48,385 China (12), Vietnam (11), Italy (10), Portugal (9), Hong Kong (8). Footwear with textile uppers: Ð sports 9,289 China (35), Belgium (19), Hong Kong (12), Indonesia (10), Vietnam (7). Ð indoor, rubber/plastic outer soles 3,080 Turkey (28), China (25), Belgium (13), Spain (9), France (7). Ð indoor, other outer soles 9,384 China (91), Belgium (2), Hong Kong (2), Germany (1), Taiwan (1). Ð outdoor, outer soles rubber/plastic 15,147 China (31), Vietnam (27), Taiwan (10), Italy (4), UA Emirates (3). Other 6,865 Total imports of footwear 130,410 China (29), Vietnam (12), Italy (8), Belgium (6), Hong Kong (5).
Source: Eurostat
Imports from China rose from 30.1 million pairs in EU 1998 to 37.3 mln in 2000, while imports from Italy Five product groups covered almost 90 percent (ranked 2nd in 1998 and 3rd in 1999 and 2000) fell from (in value) of total EU imports of footwear (excluding 10.7 mln in 1998 to 10.2 in 2000. safety footwear and parts of footwear): Vietnam retained its position and ranked 2nd since 1999. ¥ outdoor footwear with uppers of leather Imports from Vietnam increased considerably (almost ¥ outdoor footwear with uppers and outer soles of 11% in 2000), while imports from Hong Kong fell plastic or rubber almost 57 percent and became the 5th supplier to The ¥ outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles sports Netherlands after Belgium and before Portugal. footwear with uppers of textiles, including training, tennis and basketball shoes, however this product Hong Kong was the leading suppliers to the group is not further specified in the available statistics Netherlands market in all kinds of sports footwear and ¥ sports footwear with uppers of leather in the category outdoor footwear with uppers of leather in 1999. China took over these positions in 2000, Outdoor footwear remained by far the most important while several other countries passed Hong Kong, too. type of footwear in EU imports. Imports increased more China remained the leading supplier to The Netherlands strongly in volume than in value, meaning that average in the product groups plastic or rubber outdoor import prices decreased from US$ 12.03 in 1998, to footwear and indoor footwear with textile uppers and 11.32 in 1999 and 10.55 in 2000. Imports of sports became the leading supplier of other sports footwear, footwear increased slightly (1.0%) in volume and outdoor footwear with leather uppers. Outdoor footwear decreased 7.9 percent in value during the whole period with uppers of textiles came mainly from China and 1998-2000, while average import prices fell from Vietnam. US$ 14.04 in 1998 to 13.37 in 1999 and to 12.80 in 2000, mainly caused by sports footwear with uppers of 5.2 Imports by product group leather. According to the official import statistics, footwear can Imports of parts of footwear stabilised just above be classified: US$ 2 billion for several years but decreased in 2000 to ¥by type of product (outdoor, indoor, sports or safety just under US$ 1.9 billion, of which almost 40 percent footwear), and/or went to Italy. ¥by materials used for uppers and outer soles. For some products, mainly outdoor footwear, a more Leather outdoor footwear detailed classification is possible, for instance: EU imports of leather outdoor footwear rose from ¥by user, like children (inner sole less than 24 cm.), 575 million pairs in 1998 to 649 million in 2000. men, women or for both sexes, and/or These imports of footwear with leather uppers ¥by type of footwear, like whether or not covering the accounted for 87 percent soles of rubber, plastic or ankle, height of the heel etc. synthetic leather, for 11 percent leather soles and the
33 Table 5.13 Imports of footwear into the EU by end use and material in volume and value, 1998-2000 (excl. safety footwear and parts of footwear)
1998 1999 2000
mln mln mln mln mln mln pairs US$ pairs US$ pairs US$
Outdoor footwear: Ð of leather 575 9,813 632 10,143 649 9,477 Ðwaterproof 22 143 25 145 24 116 Ð of plastic/rubber 257 1,692 285 1,701 314 1,908 Ð of textiles 176 915 186 986 175 910 Ð of other materials 23 107 30 132 24 104 Total outdoor footwear 1,053 12,670 1,158 13,107 1,186 12,515
Sport shoes: Ð of leather 37 711 36 635 40 621 Ð of plastic/rubber 40 523 42 518 45 504 Ð of textiles 115 1,462 113 1,400 109 1,359 Total sport shoes 192 2,696 191 2,553 194 2,484
Indoor footwear: Ð of leather 15 107 15 112 16 111 Ð of plastic/rubber 13 41 13 44 11 35 Ð of textiles 171 419 176 410 185 402 Total indoor footwear 199 567 204 566 212 548
Total imports 1,444 15,933 1,553 16,226 1,592 15,547
Source: Eurostat remaining 2 percent soles of other materials, like wood, the latter category increased from almost 297 in 1998 to cork etc. 367 million pairs in 2000, with average import prices of About 22 percent of leather outdoor footwear with soles US$ 16.45 in 1998 and US$ 14.70 in 2000. of rubber etc. imports was footwear covering the ankle Just like other leather footwear, the majority of pumps and 78 percent not covering the ankle; these has outer soles of synthetic leather (thunit): 86 percent percentages were respectively 18 and 72 percent in in 1998 and 84 percent in 2000. 1999. Imports of footwear covering the ankle amounted to 117.7 million pairs in 2000, of which 86 percent Plastic or rubber outdoor footwear concerned a height under the calf. These imports rose EU imports of outdoor footwear with uppers and outer in the period 1998-2000 by 12 percent, while average soles of plastic or rubber accounted for 15 percent of import prices fell 35 percent in this period. total outdoor footwear imports in 2000, which compared Imports of footwear covering the ankle, but under the with 1998 was a growth of 14 percent. During this calf, include for 41 percent children’s footwear, period, the imported volume grew by 22 percent. 18 percent for men and 30 percent for women, Average import prices fell from US$ 6.58 in 1998 to while the remaining 14 percent is for both sexes in 6.08 in 2000. Import prices of all products decreased, 2000. These percentages were rather stable in the however, the biggest fall was for rubber boots. preceding years with a much lower import share of Imports of all types of rubber/plastic footwear increased children’s footwear (22%) and higher share for men with the exception of footwear not covering the ankle (27%) and women (39% ). with uppers of plastic, which fell from 27.4 million Footwear not covering the ankle can be divided into pairs in 1998 to 23.0 million in 2000. The most shoes with vamp of straps or pieces cut out, and other important growth was shown footwear not covering the shoes. Around 29 percent of imports of the ankle with vamp of straps or pieces cut out and a heel first-mentioned category includes women’s shoes with height of 3 cm or less, namely from 40.7 million pairs height of heel more than 3 cm. (mainly pumps), an in 1998 to 60.3 million pairs in 2000. This was increase of 7 percent compared with 1998. Imports of followed by a growth of 45 percent to 36.7 million pairs
34 Table 5.14 EU imports of footwear with leather uppers and rubber, plastic or synthetic leather outer soles, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000
mln mln mln mln mln mln pairs US$ pairs US$ pairs US$
Footwear covering ankle: Ð under calf 90.4 1,762 86.9 1,654 101.0 1,271 Ð other footwear 15.6 307 11.8 242 16.7 315 Footwear not covering ankle: 000000 Ð with vamp of straps or pieces cut out 72.4 891 81.4 944 78.7 913 Ð other footwear 297.1 4,891 354.8 5,487 366.5 5,383 Total 475.5 7,851 534.9 8,327 562.9 7,882
Source: Eurostat in imports of footwear, not covering the ankle with uppers, both with outer soles of rubber or plastic. vamp of straps or pieces cut out and a heel height of Imports of textile uppers increased from 73 million more than 3 cm. pairs in 1998 to 89 million in 2000 and leather uppers from 11 to 13 million pairs. Outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles Just like in the case of sports footwear, the product Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles into group with uppers of textile dominated with around the EU increased from 176 million pair in 1998 to 87 percent of total imports of indoor footwear. 186 million in 1999, but then decreased to 175 million Average import prices decreased on average 4.7 percent in 2000. This product group covered for 89 percent annually. rubber or plastic soles, 2 percent leather soles, 1 percent wood or cork and 8 percent other soles Average import Germany prices remained rather stable around US$ 5.20. Five product groups: outdoor footwear with uppers of leather (and soles of rubber etc.), plastic/rubber and Sports footwear textiles, sport shoes of textiles and leather indoor Sports shoes with textile uppers covered 56 percent of footwear) covered 88 percent of German imports in EU sports footwear imports in the period under review. terms of value in 2000. This product group, despite a fall in imports, remained Total imports decreased, mainly caused by a fall in very important. Official statistics make no further imports of the leading product group outdoor footwear specifications of this product group. with leather uppers. The main developments in German Imports of ski and snowboard boots with uppers of imports of the product category leather outdoor rubber or plastic increased from 4.7 million to footwear, besides a general decrease in imports of most 5.9 million pairs in the period 1998-2000, while items, were: imports with leather uppers almost halved. Leather ¥ decrease in imports of footwear for men and women sports footwear imports include for a very small part with outer soles of synthetic leather etc. and not (less than 1%) ski and snowboard boots. covering the ankle with vamp or straps or pieces cut EU imports of sportswear with uppers of rubber or out, from 30.3 million pairs in 1998 to 26.9 million plastic (other than ski and snowboard boots) were in 2000; 10 percent higher in 2000 than in 1998, with uppers of ¥ increase in imports of footwear for men and women leather also 10 percent, while the most important with outer soles of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather category sports footwear, namely uppers of textiles, and not covering the ankle (without vamp or straps were 5 percent lower. The popularity of the specific or pieces cut out), from 77.6 million pairs in 1998 to sports shoes in several EU countries is declining, 86.2 million in 2000; because the fashion trend is towards easy-to-wear and ¥ decrease in imports of footwear covering the ankle easy-to-care footwear. Differences between town or city (under calf) for men, women and children with outer wear and sportswear became much smaller. soles of synthetic leather etc. from 28.2 million pairs in 1998 to 20.2 million in 2000; Indoor footwear ¥ increase in imports of footwear covering the ankle EU imports of indoor footwear increased more than (above calf) for men and women with outer soles of 3 percent annually in the period under review, mainly synthetic leather etc. from 4.5 million pairs in 1998 caused by indoor footwear with textile and leather to 6.4 million in 2000.
35 Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of rubber or Imports of outdoor footwear into the UK, with uppers plastic increased from 58.3 million in 1998 to of rubber or plastic, increased by 5.5 percent annually 77.9 million pairs in 2000. In this product group, the to 50.3 million pairs in 2000. Imports of children’s following items showed the biggest growth: footwear footwear showed the biggest growth in this category not covering the ankle with vamp of straps or with (9.8 million in 1998 and 11.1 million pairs in 2000 pieces cut out (10.0 million in 1998 and 18.4 million followed by several other items, like shoes with high pairs in 2000) and with heels of more than 3 cm. heels (from 4.9 to 6.1 million pairs). (6.8 million in 1998 and 10.2 million pairs in 2000). Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles into Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles into the UK fluctuated: they grew from 23.2 million pairs in Germany increased from 28.5 million pairs in 1998 to 1998 to 25.4 million in 1999 and fell to 23.1 in 2000. 33.2 million in 2000. Imports of shoes with soles of These imports concerned for 83 percent footwear with rubber or plastic increased from 141 million in 1998 rubber or plastic soles and for 12 percent footwear with (US$ 4.70/pair) to 157 million in 2000 (US$ 5.50/pair), soles of wood or cork, while the remaining part however, imports of textile uppers with other soles fell concerned other materials for the sole, like leather. from 26 to 12 million pairs in the same period, with average import prices of respectively US$ 2.30 in 1998 Imports of nearly all types of sport shoes decreased and US$ 3.75 in 2000. with the exception of snowboard footwear, of which imports are very limited, and leather uppers. Imports of German imports of leather (other than ski and sport shoes with uppers of leather grew modestly by snowboard boots) and textile sport shoes decreased 1 percent to 6.5 million. Imports of sport shoes, other considerably: uppers of leather from 5.5 to 4.7 million than ski boots, decreased in a strong variety: uppers of pairs and uppers of textiles from 18.4 to 13.3 million. rubber or plastic decreased from 7.3 million in 1998 to Imports of sports shoes with rubber or plastic uppers 6.5 million pairs in 2000; sport shoes with uppers of increased from 2.4 million in 1998 to 2.9 million pairs textiles from 18.3 to 16.8 million. in 2000. Imports of ski boots with rubber or plastic uppers decreased 5.5 percent to 807 thousand pairs in UK imports of indoor footwear increased strongly favour of snowboard boots of rubber and plastic and during the period 1998-2000 from 32.7 million to leather boots. 39.9 million pairs in 2000. Indoor footwear with textile uppers covered 92 percent (in terms of volume) of total Imports of indoor footwear decreased just like the imports in 2000. Imports of indoor footwear with categories outdoor and sports footwear during the uppers of leather and uppers of rubber or plastic period 1998-2000. Indoor footwear with textile uppers increased considerably, namely from 1.1 million in covered 78 percent (in terms of volume) of total 1998 to 1.7 million pairs in 2000 for leather uppers and imports in 2000 and increased from 28.4 million pairs from 1.1 to 1.5 million for rubber or plastic uppers. in 1998 to 29.2 million in 2000, while imports of all other types of indoor footwear decreased. France Outdoor footwear covered 80 percent of French imports United Kingdom of footwear (excluding safety footwear and parts of Leather outdoor footwear covered almost two thirds of footwear) in 2000. Imports of all major types of UK imports (in terms of value) in 2000. The growth of outdoor footwear increased in 2000 compared with imports in the period 1998-2000 from 260 million to 1998 (and 1999). Sport shoes’ imports increased 272 million pairs was mainly caused by outdoor slightly and imports of indoor footwear increased, footwear of all materials and indoor footwear with caused by increased imports of slippers with uppers of textile uppers. textiles with rubber or plastic soles, while indoor Imports of low (not covering the ankle) outdoor shoes footwear with other uppers decreased. with leather uppers and rubber, plastic or synthetic leather soles increased for children by 45 percent to Imports of low (not covering the ankle) outdoor shoes 20.4 million pairs, for men by 21 percent to 29.4 with leather uppers and rubber, plastic or synthetic million pairs in the period 1998-2000, while footwear leather soles increased from 44.6 million pairs in 1998 for women in this product group fell 2.7 percent to to 54.5 million in 2000, while high (covering the ankle) 43.5 million pairs in 2000. Imports of women’s shoes fell from 18.0 to 14.9 million pairs in the same period. with high heels (more than 3 cm) rose from 3.7 million In this product group imports of footwear for children to 6.7 million in 2000. Imports of high outdoor increased from 11.6 million in 1998 to 14.7 million footwear decreased: under calf from 10.0 to 8.9 million pairs in 2000, for men from 16.6 million to 21.1 million pairs and other (higher) footwear from 2.7 to and for women from 25.7 million to 28.6 million pairs. 2.1 million. Imports of women’s shoes with high heels (more than
36 3 cm) did not grow so fast, like in the UK, and rose uppers of rubber or plastic from 24 million to from 4.8 to 5.3 million pairs. 31 million pairs. Imports of low (not covering the ankle) outdoor shoes Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of rubber or with leather uppers and rubber, plastic or synthetic plastic increased from 43.1 million in 1998 to leather soles increased considerably by almost 52.8 million pairs in 2000. In this product group, 18 million pairs, while imports of high (covering the the following items showed the biggest growth: ankle) outdoor footwear fell from 8.6 to 8.4 million in low shoes (not covering the ankle) with vamp of straps 2000. or with pieces cut out (6.7 million in 1998 and In this product group, imports of footwear for children 9.4 million pairs in 2000) and with high heels increased from 4.1 million in 1998 to 5.1 million pairs (5.7 million in 1998 and 10.1 million pairs in 2000). in 2000, for women from 10.1 to 18.0 million, for men Imports of other low shoes for all sexes decreased, from 18.7 to 23.8 million and for both sexes from 5.3 to while rubber boots increased in the period under review. 7.4 million pairs.
French imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of rubber or textiles more or less stabilised in the period 1998-2000 plastic into Italy grew 34 percent in the period under and covered for 94 percent footwear with rubber or review, namely from 22.9 million in 1998 to plastic soles and to a much lesser degree other soles 30.8 million pairs in 2000. The following items showed like wood, cork or leather. the biggest growth in this product group: footwear with The trend in French fashion, the change from the daily upper of straps attached to the sole with plugs wearing of sports shoes to more casual outdoor (4.9 million in 1998 and 8.9 million pairs in 2000), footwear is illustrated by developments in imports. footwear not covering the ankle with vamp of straps or In the period 1998-2000, outdoor footwear imports with pieces cut out (3.4 million in 1998 and 5.2 million increased by 10 percent (almost 18 million pairs), pairs in 2000) and high (more than 3 cm) heels while sports footwear imports increased 2 percent (1.9 million in 1998 and 2.8 million pairs in 2000). (a growth of 0.6 million pairs). French imports of nearly all types of sport shoes Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles into increased, with the exception of footwear with rubber Italy increased from 27.1 million pair in 1998 to or plastic uppers other than ski boots and snowboard 30.6 million in 2000 and consisted mainly (75%) of boots. footwear with rubber or plastic soles. This percentage Imports of ski and snowboard footwear with plastic fell considerably because imports of indoor footwear uppers increased from 19.6 to 23.7 million pairs in with textiles uppers increased from 5.4 million pairs in 2000, while leather uppers decreased considerably. 1998 to 6.3 million in 2000. Imports of sport shoes, other than ski and snowboard footwear, increased: uppers of leather from 3.5 to Italian imports of all sport shoes increased from 3.9 million and uppers of textiles from 18.1 to 31.2 million in 1998 to 32.9 million in 2000, caused by 18.4 million, while (as mentioned above) uppers of increased imports of footwear with rubber or plastic rubber and plastic fell from 3.3 to 2.9 million uppers including snowboard and ski boots and despite a pairs in 2000. fall in imports of sportswear with leather and textiles uppers. Imports of sport shoes with leather uppers, Imports of indoor footwear into France increased other than ski and snowboard boots, decreased strongly during the period 1998-2000, namely from considerably: from 7.1 million in 1998 to 5.1 million 44.1 million to 51.1 million pairs in 2000, mainly pairs in 2000 and uppers of textiles decreased very caused by a considerable increase in imports of indoor slightly to 18.6 million pairs in 2000. footwear with uppers of textiles and soles of rubber or plastic from 19.0 million in 1998 to 26.4 million pairs Italian imports of indoor footwear decreased on average in 2000. Indoor footwear with textile uppers accounted 2.5 percent annually during the period 1998-2000, for 96 percent (in terms of volume) of total imports in namely from 32.6 million to 31.0 million pairs in 2000. 2000. Indoor footwear with textile uppers covered 87 percent (in terms of volume) of total imports in 2000. Italy This percentage decreased in comparison with 1998, Italian imports of footwear (excluding safety footwear because imports of indoor footwear with uppers of and parts of footwear) increased 9.4 percent annually in leather increased from 1.0 terms of volume to 190 million pairs in 2000, caused by million in 1998 to 3.0 million pairs in 2000 and despite increased imports of outdoor footwear. Imports of a fall in imports of plastic/rubber uppers from 1.7 to outdoor footwear with uppers of leather increased from 1.1 million pairs. 45 million pairs in 1998 to 62 million in 2000, and
37 The Netherlands imports of ski and snowboard boots with leather uppers Imports of footwear (excluding safety footwear and increased. Imports of sport shoes, other than ski and parts of footwear) into The Netherlands increased snowboard boots, increased considerably: uppers of 16 percent in terms of volume to 131 million pairs in leather from 1.2 to 2.3 million and uppers of textiles 1999, caused by increased imports of the product from 5.6 to 9.3 million. categories: outdoor and sports footwear. In 2000, imports fell by 2.2 percent to 129 million items. Netherlands imports of indoor footwear increased on Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of leather average 15 percent annually during the period increased from 43 million pairs in 1998 to 52 million in 1998-2000, namely from 10.9 million to 14.2 million 2000, and uppers of rubber or plastic from 24 million to pairs in 2000. Indoor footwear with textile uppers 30 million pairs. covered 89 percent (in terms of volume) of total Imports of outdoor shoes with leather uppers and imports in 2000. This percentage increased compared rubber, plastic or synthetic leather soles increased by with 1998 because imports of indoor footwear with 10.3 million pairs, namely for children from 5.6 million uppers of plastic/rubber decreased from 0.9 million in in 1998 to 6.0 million pairs in 1999, for women from 1998 to 0.7 million pairs in 2000 and imports of leather 13.3 to 18.3 million, for men from 13.4 to 14.9 million uppers from 1.2 million to 0.9 million pairs. and for both sexes from 5.8 to 9.2 million pairs. Imports of women’s shoes with high heels (more than 5.3 The role of developing countries 3 cm) grew 5 percent from 695 thousand pairs in 1998 China remained the leading exporter of footwear to the to 718 thousand in 2000. EU, however, the difference with number two Vietnam became very small in terms of value. EU imports from Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of rubber or China rose from US$ 1,261 million in 1998 to plastic into The Netherlands increased from US$ 1,661 million in 2000, while imports from 24.5 million in 1998 to 29.8 million pairs in 2000. Vietnam rose from US$ 967 million in 1998 to Imports of the major items in this product group US$ 1,509 million. increased strongly, except for footwear with upper of straps attached to the sole with plugs. The following The growth in imports from developing countries in items showed the biggest growth in this product group: 2000 can be ascribed to the following categories: rubber boots (3.9 million in 1998 and 6.9 million pairs ¥ Asian-low price suppliers, like China and Vietnam. in 2000) and footwear not covering the ankle with Other countries from the Far East with sharply vamp of straps or with pieces cut out (2.8 million in increased exports into the EU were Cambodia, 1998 and 6.3 million pairs in 2000). Macao and Malaysia. It should be noted that statistics do not take into account the considerable Imports of outdoor footwear with uppers of textiles into volume of (fraudulent) imports of Chinese products The Netherlands fell from 22.6 million pairs in 1998 to via other countries from the Far and Middle East. 16.6 million in 2000 and consisted for 91 percent of ¥ CEECs, like Bosnia & Herzegovina, Moldova and footwear with rubber or plastic soles and for 9 percent Slovenia. of other materials, like wood, cork or leather. Just over 81 percent of total EU imports of footwear Imports of nearly all types of sport shoes increased, from developing countries came from Asian developing with the exception of sportswear of plastic or rubber countries, while in 1997 this was 78 percent. uppers, including ski and snowboard boots while Leading countries were China, Vietnam, Indonesia,
Table 5.17 Imports of footwear from leading developing countries by major EU countries, 2000 (in % of value of total imports)
1234 5
EU (15) China (9.3%) Vietnam (8.5%) Indonesia (3.5%) India (2.5%) Tunisia (1.6%) Germany Vietnam (9.8%) China (6.9%) India (2.4%) Indonesia (2.2%) South Korea (1.4%) The Netherlands China (15.7%) Vietnam (9.2%) Indonesia (4.2%) Thailand (2.8%) Macao (1.4%) France Vietnam (7.4%) China (6.2%) Tunisia (3.4%) Morocco (3.1%) Indonesia (1.6%) UK China (12.3%) Vietnam (10.7%) India (6.2%) Indonesia (5.4%) Brazil (3.9%) Italy China (7.6%) Tunisia (6.1%) Vietnam (5.4%) Albania (2.9%) India (2.8%)
Source: derived from Eurostat
38 Table 5.18 Imports of footwear from area of developing countries in value, 2000 (in US$ mln)
Total ACP- CEECs Mediter- Asia Central & Other developing countries ranean Southern countries America
EU 6,206.8 27.9 397.6 510.7 5,038.8 227.7 4.1
UK 1,370.5 1.4 1.2 12.9 1,233.2 119.0 2.8 Germany 1,244.0 0.5 73.6 111.2 1,018.1 40.5 0.1 Italy 926.7 0.2 240.1 178.2 497.2 10.9 0.0 France 776.9 7.6 16.9 187.8 551.3 13.2 0.1 Belgium 554.3 0.1 1.0 2.3 548.4 1.9 0.6 Netherlands 533.9 11.1 4.2 5.4 494.3 18.6 0.3 Spain 230.7 0.1 0.0 9.6 216.1 4.8 0.1 Sweden 128.3 0.0 3.2 0.2 120.0 4.8 0.1 Denmark 119.9 0.1 0.5 0.1 112.9 6.3 0.0 Austria 111.0 0.0 55.8 0.4 53.6 1.2 0.0 Other (5) 210.6 6.8 1.1 2.6 193.7 6.5 0.0
Source: derived from Eurostat
India and Tunisia as mentioned before. Imports from from Macao, South Korea, Philippines, Sri Lanka and ACP countries rose from US$ 8.7 million in 1991 to Tunisia. US$ 32 million in 1995 and to US$ 38.5 million in Traditionally, an important part of French footwear 1999 but fell back to US$ 27.9 million in 2000. came from the Mediterranean countries Morocco and The leading country remained the Dominican Republic Tunisia. These countries ranked 3rd and 4th after (65% of ACP imports) followed by Cape Verde (20%), Vietnam and China. Other developing countries with Senegal (4%) and Mozambique (3%). exports of more than US$ 10 million to France in 2000 Imports from Mediterranean countries fell by were: Indonesia, India, Thailand, Slovakia, 1.4 percent to an import share of 8.2 percent and came South Korea, Cambodia and Brazil. mainly from Tunisia and to a lesser degree from Italian imports from all areas of developing countries Morocco. Imports from CEECs in total increased, increased with the exception of ACP countries. countries like Bosnia & Herzegovina and Slovenia Italy was the leading importer from developing CEECs increased their exports to the EU, while EU imports (Albania, Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina and from Albania, Croatia and Macedonia decreased. Slovenia). Imports from Central & South American countries Almost 25 percent of Netherlands’ imports came from decreased by 3.3 percent in 2000. Imports from the China and Vietnam. Other major suppliers to the leading country Brazil more or less stabilised, while Netherlands (valued at more than US$ 10 million) imports from other countries (Mexico, Columbia and were: Indonesia, Thailand, Macao, Brazil, South Korea, Argentina) decreased. India and the Dominican Republic. The Netherlands was the leading importer from ACP countries, however, The role of Asian developing countries in German almost all imports (98%) came from one country, the imports of footwear became more important: 82 percent Dominican Republic. of total imports from developing countries in 2000, The Dominican Republic and Senegal were suppliers to which is 3 percent higher than in the year before. France and Cape Verde to Portugal. Remarkable are the Vietnam and China were the leading suppliers followed very low German and Italian imports from ACP at distance by India, Indonesia and South Korea. countries. Other developing countries with exports of more than US$ 10 million to Germany in 2000 were: Macao, The role of developing countries in selected major Tunisia, Morocco, Croatia, Brazil and Cambodia. product groups Almost 90 percent of UK imports from developing As discussed before, the imports of sports footwear countries came from Asian countries, mainly China and increased slightly and remained rather important. Vietnam, followed by India, Indonesia and Thailand. The import share of developing countries was The UK was also the leading importer from Central & 56 percent in imports of plastic or rubber sports South American countries (mainly Brazil). Imports with footwear: 48 percent in sports footwear with leather a value of more than US$ 10 million in 2000 came uppers and 61 percent in sports footwear with textile
39 uppers in 2000. These percentages were somewhat The leading product group in imports of sportswear lower in 1998: 55, 44 and 60 percent respectively. were sports footwear with textile uppers, of which the 95 percent of sports footwear and plastic or rubber developments can be deduced from the following table. footwear came from Asian developing countries, of Again, there was an important role for Asian countries which imports from China increased to 17.5 million in total, with China and Vietnam as leading exporters, pairs (73 percent of total Asian exports). Imports from despite a fall in imports from Vietnam. In this product Vietnam (5.0 million in 1998 to 2.5 million in 2000) group, Indonesia and Thailand were also confronted and Indonesia (2.8 million in 1998 to 2.5 million in with a remarkable fall in exports to the EU. 2000) decreased in favour of imports from China. Other Asian developing countries exported 1.6 million EU imports of outdoor footwear with plastic or rubber pairs in total to the EU in 2000 (11.1 million pairs in outer soles and uppers increased from 257 million in 1999); increased EU imports came from Macao, South 1998 to 314 million pairs in 2000. The role of Korea, Philippines and Malaysia. developing countries in EU imports became more The role of developing countries from other areas, like important in absolute terms in the period under review, Central and Eastern Europe (Bosnia & Herzegovina, because total imports rose from 160 million to Croatia, Slovenia and Macedonia) and the 200 million in the same period. In relative terms, Mediterranean (Turkey and Tunisia) was rather limited, imports increased from 62.2 percent to 63.6 percent in with respectively 1.0 and 0.2 million pairs in total. 2000. The leading suppliers in this product group were Asian developing countries were also dominant in EU China with 81.7 million pairs (29% higher than in imports of sports footwear with leather uppers: 1998) and Vietnam with 62.8 million (as much as 42% 96 percent of the total imports from developing higher). Other EU suppliers were Indonesia with countries came from this area. Imports from China 15.9 million pairs in 2000 (23.8 million in 1998), increased from 6.3 million pairs in 1998 to 8.1 million Thailand with 15.4 million pairs (15.6 mln in 1998), in 2000 and imports from Vietnam from 3.2 to Malaysia 5.4 million pairs (198 mln in 1998), 4.7 million pairs in the same period. Much smaller Cambodia 4.8 million (0.6 mln in 1998), Macao increase in imports came from countries like South 2.9 million (1.1 mln in 1998) and the Philippines Korea (from 0.6 to 0.8 million) and the Philippines 2.4 million (2.7 mln in 1998). (from 0.4 to 0.6 million). Indonesia was confronted Brazil exported 1.6 million and Morocco 1.2 million with lower exports to the EU, because its imports fell pairs to the EU in 2000, respectively 1.1 and 1.3 mln in from 3.5 million pairs in 1998 to 3.1 million in 2000. 1998. Exports by Turkey to the EU increased from We saw a limited role again for other areas of 1.4 million to 1.7 million pairs in 2000. An increase of developing countries, as mentioned above. imports from CEECs into the EU came from countries like Czech Republic, Slovenia and Bosnia & Herzegovina; however, these imports were limited. Table 5.19 EU imports of sports footwear with uppers of textiles from developing The role of developing countries in EU imports of countries, 1998-2000 (in million pairs) outdoor footwear with leather uppers and outer soles is very limited as compared to many other categories of 1998 2000 footwear. Only 14 percent of a total of 70 million pairs in EU imports came from these countries. This was for Total EU imports 115.1 109.4 a substantial part caused by the EU’s trade policy From developing countries 70.0 66.2 measures such as quota restrictions and anti-dumping of which from: policy. More information is given in chapter 1.2 of the Asia 68.4 64.8 Strategic Marketing Guide “Footwear”. Ð China 25.4 28.9 Around 60 percent of EU imports from developing Ð Vietnam 18.9 15.0 countries came from Asian countries, of which India Ð Indonesia 10.2 9.4 was the leading exporter with 3.2 million pairs followed Ð Thailand 5.5 3.6 by Vietnam (1.2 mln), Indonesia, China (each 0.4 mln) Ð India 1.9 1.4 and Thailand (0.1 mln). Other suppliers were Tunisia Ð Pakistan 1.5 1.6 (0.9 million in 2000), Croatia (0.7 mln), Morocco Central and Eastern Europe 1.0 0.9 (0.5 mln) and Brazil (0.4 mln). Imports from all these ÐCroatia 1.0 0.8 countries increased, with the exception of Croatia. Mediterranean 0.5 0.5 EU imports from developing countries of outdoor ÐMorocco 0.4 0.4 footwear with uppers of textiles and outer soles of Other 0.1 0.0 rubber or plastic increased in absolute terms (from 82 to 96 million pairs) as well as in relative terms (from 58 Source: Eurostat to 61%). Leading suppliers in this product group were Vietnam (39.6 million pairs) and China (30.0 mln).
40 Much smaller volumes came from countries like China, Indonesia, India and Macao. The leading Cambodia( 3.9 mln), Thailand (3.4 mln), India non-Asian exporter in this product group remained (2.8 mln), Macao (2.5 mln), Pakistan (2.4 mln) and Brazil with a growth in imports from 9.0 in 1998 to Indonesia (2.4 mln) followed by Bangladesh and 9.2 million pairs in 2000. Malaysia. Imports from Asian developing countries accounted for 97 percent of total imports from The above-mentioned product group of outdoor developing countries in 2000. The remaining 4 percent footwear includes many items, among which: came mainly from the Dominican Republic (1.2 mln), ¥low footwear (not covering the ankle) and without Turkey (0.5 mln), Brazil (0.5 mln), Croatia (0.4 mln) vamps or straps or pieces cut out: and Morocco (0.3 mln). Ðfor children, leading supplier of the developing countries was Indonesia with 8.1 million pairs in The most important product group by far in EU imports 2000 or 15 percent of total EU imports, followed of footwear in volume as well as in value remained by Vietnam (8.0 mln), China (4.7 mln), Thailand outdoor footwear with uppers of leather and outer soles (1.4 mln) and Macao (0.8 mln). Imports from all of plastic or rubber. The role of developing countries these countries grew, compared with imports in became much more important: imports from these 1998, except for Thailand. countries rose almost 35 percent during 1998-2000, Ðfor women, leading supplier of the developing while total import rose 18 percent. countries was Vietnam with 11.5 million pairs in As can be derived from the table below, the growth in 2000 or 8.6 percent of total EU imports, followed imports can be ascribed to increased imports from by China (4.4 mln), Brazil (4.4 mln), Indonesia Vietnam for a major part. Other Asian developing (3.8 mln), and India (2.8 mln). ). Imports from all countries with increased exports into the EU were: these countries grew, compared with imports in 1998, except for Brazil. Ðfor men, leading supplier of the developing Table 5.20 EU imports of outdoor footwear with countries was Vietnam with 11.1 million pairs in uppers of leather and outer soles of 2000 or 9.2 percent of total EU imports, followed plastic or rubber from developing by India (9.0 mln); China (7.8 mln), Indonesia countries, 1998-2000 (in million pairs) (5.8 mln) and Thailand (1.8 mln). ). Imports from all these countries grew, compared with imports in 1998 2000 1998, except for Thailand. ¥women’s shoes with height of heel more than 3 cm. Total EU imports 475.5 562.9 (mainly pumps). EU imports of this product group From developing countries 145.2 195.6 were 7.3 percent higher in 2000 than in 1998. Again of which from: the role of developing countries was very important. Asia 114.0 160.2 Imports from the following countries increased: - Vietnam 30.0 53.9 Vietnam (from 0.9 mln in 1997 to 1.5 mln in 2000 - China 23.4 31.9 or 6.6% of total EU imports), Brazil (from 0.7 to - Indonesia 22.8 26.8 1.4 mln) and India (from 0.3 to 0.8 mln) and Macao - India 14.4 18.8 (from 0.3 to 0.4 mln). - Thailand 8.8 8.7 - Macao 4.8 7.3 Imports from developing countries of indoor footwear Central and Eastern Europe 10.5 11.7 with uppers of textiles and outer soles of plastic or - Croatia 3.8 4.1 rubber increased in absolute terms (from 25 to 40 - Bosnia & Herzegovina 1.5 2.6 million pairs) as well as in relative terms (from 34 to - Slovenia 2.3 1.5 45%). Leading suppliers in this product group were - Albania 0.4 1.1 China (23 million pairs) and Vietnam (8 million pairs). Mediterranean 9.9 13.3 Much smaller volumes came from countries like - Morocco 5.7 7.2 Sri Lanka (1.2 mln) and Indonesia (0.6 mln). In total, - Tunisia 3.6 5.4 84 percent of EU imports came from Asian developing Southern America 9.6 9.6 countries in 2000. Imports from Turkey increased from - Brazil 9.0 9.2 0.8 million in 1998 to 3.7 million pairs in 2000. ACP countries 1.2 0.7 Other major developing countries in this product group - Dominican Rep. 0.5 0.4 were Croatia, Morocco and Mexico. - Senegal 0.5 0.2 Other 0.0 0.1
Source: Eurostat
41 6 EXPORTS
6.1 EU exports of footwear were footwear with leather uppers and outer soles of The same restrictions for the import figures apply to the rubber, plastic or synthetic leather and footwear with export figures below. Refer to chapter 1 for leather uppers and leather soles. These two product these restrictions. groups covered 63 percent of total EU exports in 2000, The EU member states exported footwear totalling while the export share of these two product groups in US$ 16.5 billion (€ 17.9 bn) in 2000, representing a fall total exports to outside the EU amounted to almost in value of almost 10 percent in the period 1998-2000. 36 percent in 1998 and in 2000. In terms of volume, EU exports decreased from Germany, France and UK were the leading destinations 967 million pairs in 1998 to 936 million in 2000. for intra-EU trade. The USA was, after Germany, the
Figure 6.1 EU exports of footwear by member states in terms of value, 1996-2000
Greece
Ireland
Sweden
Finland
Denmark
Austria
UK 2000 Netherlands 1998 France 1996 Germany
Portugal
Belgium/Lux.
Spain
Italy
01000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 7000 8000 9000 10000 US$ millions
Intra-EU exports accounted for 689 million pairs or most important destination for EU footwear, with 74 percent of total exports in 2000, which was only respectively 12.5 and 16.1 percent of total exports. 1.0 percent higher than exports to other EU countries in 35 percent of extra-EU exports went to the USA in 1998. Therefore the fall in EU exports was the result of 2000. Other main destinations outside the EU were lower exports to countries outside the EU: in value Switzerland (3.2% of total EU exports and 8.7% of (- 12.1%) and in volume (- 6.7%). non-EU exports), Japan (6.1% of non-EU exports), Russia (5.0%), Romania (4.7%), followed by Canada, The leading EU exporter is Italy accounting for Norway, Poland and Hong Kong. 42.5 percent of total EU exports, at a distance followed Exports to the USA, Romania and Japan increased, by Spain (11.5%), Belgium (8.4%), Portugal (8.2%), while exports to the other countries mentioned Germany (7.8%), France (5.6%) and The Netherlands decreased, of which exports to Russia showed the (5.3%). biggest fall. Russia ranked 3rd after USA and Switzerland in 1998 with exports valued at US$ 525 36 percent of total EU exports went to countries outside million, and then fall back to 297 million in 2000; the Union in 2000, while in 1998 this percentage was the sharply decreased exports to Russia were caused by 35. The leading export product groups in terms of value economic problems in that country.
42 Table 6.1 Developments in EU exports of footwear by member states in terms of value, 1997-2000
1997 1998 1999 2000 % change % change US$ mln US$ mln US$ mln US$ mln 1997-2000 1999-2000
Italy 8,236 7,846 7,316 7,029 - 14.7% - 3.9% Spain 2,158 2,157 1,881 1,910 - 11.5% + 1.5% Belgium/Lux. 1,307 1,446 1,484 1,384 + 5.9% - 6.7% Portugal 1,849 1,737 1,686 1,356 - 26.7% - 19.6% Germany 1,387 1,473 1,426 1,298 - 6.4% - 9.0% France 1,005 1,033 1,054 919 - 8.6% - 12.8% The Netherlands 678 730 867 880 + 29.8% + 1.5% UK 981 899 861 778 - 20.7% - 9.6% Austria 561 577 575 547 - 2.5% - 4.9% Denmark 251 246 296 248 - 1.2% - 16.2% Finland 89 83 67 67 - 24.7% = Sweden 66 67 71 62 - 6.1% - 12.7% Ireland 31 25 31 31 = = Greece 57 38 29 29 - 49.1% = EU (15) 18,656 18,357 17,644 16,538 - 11.4% - 6.3%
Source: derived from Eurostat
Germany France German footwear exports went to Austria (18% of total French exports decreased in value (11.9%) and exports), The Netherlands (11%), USA (8%), decreased in volume (6.5%) in the period 1998-2000, Switzerland (8%), UK (7%) and France (7%). which indicates 4.9 percent lower export prices. Other destinations outside the EU besides the USA Exports to countries outside the EU fell faster than were Poland, Hungary, Russia, Japan and the Czech exports to other EU countries. Around 44 percent of Republic in 2000. Exports to other EU countries French intra-EU exports went to two countries: increased in the period 1998-2000 in volume (5% to Germany and Belgium. Exports to the USA fell to 43.4 mln pairs) and decreased in value (11% to US$ 98 million (25% of non-EU exports) though the US$ 811 mln). Exports to countries outside the EU, USA remained the third most important destination, however, decreased in volume (10% to 17.0 mln pairs) followed by the UK, Italy, Spain and Switzerland. and in value (13% to US$ 487 mln, which accounted Other non-EU destinations were Japan, Tunisia, for 38 percent of total exports), mainly due to much Morocco and Canada. Exports to these North African lower exports to Russia (from US$ 64.8 mllion in 1998 countries included for more than 90 percent parts of to 29.8 million in 2000). In terms of value, exports to footwear. all major destinations decreased, except exports to the USA and Poland. Export to the latter, mainly concerned Italy outward processing trade (OPT). The leading producing country Italy is also the leading Many German manufacturers are doing well in the exporting country. However, Italian exports decreased so-called health sector, of which Birkenstock and by 17.4 percent: from 422 million pairs in 1997 (valued Ganter are well-known, with important exports to US$ 8.2 billion) to 348 million in 1999 (valued respectively the USA and Japan US$ 6.9 billion). Half of Italian exports of footwear went to other EU The Netherlands countries, of which Germany is the leading destination Exports by The Netherlands amounted to 71.7 million (17% of total exports and 34 percent of the intra-EU pairs with a value of US$ 8880 million (€ 955 mln) in trade). Exports to Germany were much lower in 2000 2000, of which only 11 percent went to countries than in the two previous years. Exports to the USA outside the EU. Leading destination within the EU were increased considerably in volume and value, so that it Germany, UK, France, Belgium and Italy. In total, passed Germany as the leading export destination with 75 percent of Netherlands’ exports (in value) went to 18 percent of total exports, and 35 percent of Italian these five countries. Destinations outside the EU were exports went to countries outside the EU. the USA (6% of total exports in terms of value), Other destinations outside the EU were Switzerland, Switzerland, Norway and Canada, however, exports to Romania, Japan, Russia, Canada, Hong Kong and the three latter countries were even much lower. Poland. Exports to Russia, Poland and Hong Kong
43 decreased. Exports to the Central and East European countries mainly covered parts of footwear.
UK UK exports of footwear increased very slightly in volume (+ 0.5%) and decreased strongly in value (-13%) in the two years after 1998. Exports amounted to US$ 778 million (€ 844 mln) in 2000, of which 44 percent went to countries outside the EU, mainly the USA. The USA remained the leading destination in the period under review with an export share of 23 percent of total UK exports (no less then 52% of non-EU exports). The major destination inside the EU was Ireland (19 % of total UK exports) followed by France (7%), Germany (7%), Italy (6%) and, Belgium (5%). Other destinations outside the EU, besides USA, were Japan (4%), Canada and, Hong Kong.
44 7 TRADE STRUCTURE
7.1 EU trade channels familiar with the marketing and distribution Figure 7.1 shows the basic functions of the various characteristics of these product/market combinations. kinds of exporting manufacturers and traders, agents, These may differ significantly from combination to importing manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers combination. either or not organised in buying or selling groups. Depending on its position in the market, the functions 7.1.1 Manufacturers of a particular distribution organisation will be linked Manufacturing companies have more and more with up- or downstream organisations with the same switched from manufacturing to assembling, by using kind of specialisation. It is also possible for a given imported parts of shoes, whether or not manufactured organisation to take over (some of) the functions of the according to specific requirements. Besides this latter, in order to improve competitiveness (vertical development, the high price of manufacturing in EU integration). For instance, manufacturers, agents and countries, like Germany, UK, The Netherlands etc. has retailer organisations, like multiples and department led to the following four de-localisation strategies by stores, may also function as importer/wholesaler. suppliers of footwear: Each of these groups has a different approach to ¥ subcontracting, manufacturing by a third party of business and the market, with its own specific materials owned by the principal and according to interpretation of the marketing mix. his specifications; The enormous variety in existing relations between the ¥ foreign production,production carried out in a companies mentioned in figure 7.1 in practice, makes it foreign subsidiary of an European company; (nearly) impossible to reproduce these relations within ¥ sourcing, buying goods according to specifications this diagramme, which is the reason why no issued by the principal according to his specifications; “connecting” lines are drawn. ¥ outward processing trade (OPT), parts are exported to be made up into finished footwear in It is essential for the potential exporter to know into third countries. The footwear is then re-imported at which product/market combination his products fit preferential tariffs (on added value). OPT (or “which kind of business he is in”) as well as being developments in the EU are discussed in chapter 4.
Figure 7.1 Distribution pattern for footwear in the EU
Domestic producer Foreign producer/exporter
Agents Wholesaler/importer Agents
Non-organised Footwear Buying/Selling Other independents multiple stores organisations outlets
Franchise Organised organisations independents
45 Manufacturing companies play a pivotal role in the 7.1.4 Retailers distribution system. Most footwear manufacturers Retailers constitute the final stage before products reach wholesale their own goods to retailers, and some even the consumer. The various retailing outlets differ in the function as retailer as well. Manufacturers with their sales formula they apply, i.e. their assortment and the own outlets are Clarks in the UK, Eram in France etc. targeted consumer group, as well as in the way they Shoe manufacturers generally sell their products distinguish themselves from competitors. As an aid to (mainly brands) themselves and therefore they have a understanding the market, one can discriminate between direct relationship with the distribution network. “service retailing”, where the retailer offers the According to the importance of the distributor and the consumer substantial added value (quality, service, size of the company, it is the sales manager (or the fashionably, choice etc.), and “low-margin retailing”, managing director himself) or the sales representative where the price-conscious consumer is offered low of a region empowered by the manufacturer, who prices, at the expense of quality, service and so forth. ensures business dealings between production and Outlets of the first kind are often referred to as being at distribution. Mainly products like slippers, roped soles the “upper end” of the market, the latter at the footwear and items with textile uppers are traded “lower end” of the market; intermediate-type outlets through the wholesale channel. may be termed “mid-market”. An increasing number of manufacturers of branded Another criteria for dividing the market is the clothing has added footwear to their assortment, composition of the total assortment: specialised in for instance: Marc O’ Polo, Esprit, Mexx, Hugo Boss, footwear eventually complemented with a limited Jackpot, Cottonfield, More & More. number of related fashionable products like clothing, hand bags etc., indicated as specialised stores or 7.1.2 Agents specialists. The difference between independent Agents are mere intermediaries who do not “take a retailers and multiples is formed by the number of stand” on products. The agent may serve as an outlets: multiples are organisations with 7 or more intermediary between the manufacturer and the retailer, outlets. The main operations of independent retailers receiving a commission from the former. The level of are in the middle and upper sections of the market. the commission depends on a number of factors, They lack the advantages of economies of scale and including the turnover rate of the product concerned; consequently have to work with higher margins. it averages an estimated 10-15 percent of turnover. This means that the products must be fashionable and Most agents represent more than one manufacturer, exclusive, otherwise customers will purchase in cheaper although competition is avoided. More and more agents stores. are starting to sell from stock, to meet their clients’ Non-specialists cover stores with an assortment of short-term demands. Stock-forming is often on a various branches (department stores, variety stores), consignment basis. If the agent builds up his own stock, or specialists in a branch other than footwear, of which he is in fact functioning as an importer/wholesaler. footwear forms a complementary product like textile Agents operate mainly in the segments high discounters, drug stores, super- and hypermarkets, price/quality and in the middle/high price, classical, mail-order companies etc. The remaining channels are branded shoes fashion. Addresses of organisations of street markets, factory outlets, non-food stores like agents are given in Appendix 4. sport shops, etc. Table 7.1 gives an overview of how the consumer has 7.1.3 Importers/wholesalers been reached in several major EU member states. Contrary to the agent, the wholesaler holds his own stocks at own risk. The fact that many independent retailers as well as buying organisations and multiple stores are becoming more cautious about pre-ordering, prefer to sell from stock, is reinforcing the position of the importer/wholesaler. However, more and more bigger organisations buy directly or via buying offices and import by themselves. The choice of whether to sell directly to a wholesaler or through an agent depends on the type of supplier organisation concerned and its product/market combinations. All the factors relating to pricing, collection forming, sampling, fashionably, delivery times, delivery frequency, product quality, exclusiveness, labels and packing and promotion may play a role in this respect. Addresses of wholesale organisations are provided for reference in Appendix 4.
46 Table 7.1 Types of retail channels by market share (in % of value) in major EU countries, 2001
Footwear Independent Department Mail- Hyper-/ Sports Other Total multiple specialised & variety order super- shops 1) stores retailers stores houses markets
Germany 31 30 6 11 4 8 10 100 United Kingdom 32 10 16 8 4 14 16 100 The Netherlands 41 41 3 1 1 7 6 100 France 38 22 4 4 12 11 9 100 Italy 9 53 6 0 7 9 16 100 Belgium 29 47 4 2 1 9 8 100 EU (15) 29 36 5 6 4 10 10 100
1) including clothing shops, street markets and other Sources: OETH and Retail Intelligence
Besides the growing role of non-specialised Independent specialised retailers: The high share of distributors, as mentioned above, the most important co-operating specialised retailers, which amounts to developments are increasing concentration round 43 percent, is remarkable, also in comparison (developments in the major countries will be given with other branches. Most of them belong to a buying below) and growing internationalisation or cross-border group. The leading buying groups are: Garant Schuh activities, of which the main (besides many others) + Mode AG and Ariston/Nord-West-Ring e.G. examples are Garant Schuh AG in Germany and sports (ANWR). Garant included 4,850 members/retailers formula like Intersport and Sport 2000. with 6,470 stores/outlets at the end of 2000. Garant operates in 12 European countries with 1,950 members Germany in Germany, 1,260 in France, 740 in The Netherlands, Around 8,400 specialised footwear retailers operated in 250 in Austria and 650 in other European countries, Germany in 2001. However, they met strong of which 3,160 specialised footwear retailers, competition from mail-order companies and from hyper 1,090 specialised sports and leisure footwear retailers and supermarkets, although their market share is still and 600 specialist in leather ware and accessories. over 60 percent, while non-footwear specialised trade Garant’s formula are, among others, Podo Linéa (sports shops and clothing shops) took 11 percent (comfortable footwear), Firetti (fashionable footwear), together. Fair Play (sports and leisure footwear) and Outdoor Center International (leisure footwear). ANWR was formed by a merger of Ariston and Table 7.2 Market shares for retail distribution of Nord-West-Ring at the end of 2000. ANWR had footwear in Germany, 1997-2001 2,100 members (of which 1,600 in Germany) with 4,300 outlets at the end of 2000. One of the formula is 1997 1999 2001 sports and leisure chain Sport 2000 with 700 members and 1,000 outlets. Other marketing formula are Quick Specialists 64 62 61 Schuh, ABC-Schuhe, Arbell and Mania. ANWR Ð Independent retailers 33 31 30 operates in many other European countries and is ÐFootwear multiple stores 31 31 31 associated with the buying group Hobo Faam in Non-specialists 36 38 39 Belgium. ÐDepartment and variety stores 5 5 6 Other buying groups are Rexor (around 500 shops) and Ð Mail-order houses 12 11 11 Salamander-Bund. The latter is part of the Salamander Ð Sports shops 7 8 8 Group, with some 1,000 retailers trading mainly as Ð Hyper- and supermarkets 3 4 4 Salamander. ÐClothing shops 3 4 3 Footwear multiple stores: About 50 multiple chains Ð Other outlets 6 6 7 account for 30 percent of the market. The leading Total 100 100 100 footwear multiple is Deichmann with 800 shops and selling its own labels in the several chains. Roland Source: BBI and BTE Schuhe (60 outlets), Dosenbach & Ochsner (250), Van Haren (100) and Rack Room Shoes (USA) are daughter companies in the retail sector. Besides Salamander, mentioned above, the following
47 chains are active: Reno (owned by discount chain UK Hamm); Görtz (200 outlets under differentiated There are some 3,300 businesses operating concepts like Görtz, Lady Görtz, Görtz 17 and 11,000 specialist shoe shops in the UK. The structure of discounter Hess). footwear retailing in UK is one of the most concentrated Clothing shops: Leading clothing multiples with in the world. The market share of footwear specialised footwear in their assortment are C&A (192 outlets), multiple stores covered more than a third of the market; Peek & Cloppenburg (West: 79 and North 27 outlets), variety stores decreased in the period under review, but Hennes & Mauritz (167), Sinn Leffers (43), K+L still account for 11 percent of the retail footwear sales Ruppert (36), Vögele (205) , Wöhrl (35), Boecker (21) (including market leader Marks & Spencer) and clothing and Hettlage (43). shops a further 10 percent. Independent specialist stores Ladies’ wear multiples are Appelrath-Cüpper (13) and have a share of only 11 percent, compared with over BiBa (97), both part of Douglas; Orsay (227) from 40 percent in The Netherlands and Belgium and over France; Jean Pascale (169); Bonita Mode (307) and 30 percent in Germany. Ulla Popken (265). There are a few men’s clothing multiples in Germany of which can be mentioned: Pohland (12) and Nicolas Table 7. 3 Market shares of retail distribution of Scholz (35). Leisure or jeans shops are, among others, footwear in the UK, 1997-2001 Western Store Beran (202) and Werdin (70). (in % of value) Sports shops: Important channels for sport shoes but also for casual and leisure wear, are the sport speciality 1997 1999 2001 shops. Many of them are organised in co-operations (organisations of independent retailers) like Intersport Specialists 46 44 42 (1,450 outlets) and Sport 2000 (1,000 outlets). Ð Independent retailers 11 11 10 Sport chains are: Runners Point (106 outlets, part of ÐFootwear multiple stores 35 33 32 Karstadt/Quelle); Sport Voswinkel (35), Sport Treff Non-specialists 54 56 58 (21). ÐVariety stores 12 11 12 It is estimated that around half of the sales of sport ÐClothing shops 9 10 10 shoes has been sold by sport specialists. Ð Sports shops 12 14 14 Department and variety stores: Leading department ÐDepartment stores 4 4 4 stores are Karstadt and Kaufhof. Karstadt, with its Ð Hyper- and supermarkets 2 3 4 178 stores, is just like Hertie (26 stores) part of Ð Mail-order houses 8 8 8 Karstadt/Quelle; Kaufhof (74 stores) is part of Metro. Ð Street markets and other 7 6 6 Another department store is Breuninger with 14 stores. Total 100 100 100 Variety stores are Kaufhalle (143 outlets and owned by Divaco) and Woolworth (340 outlets). All these Source: TNS department stores have footwear in their assortment. Mail-order houses: Mail-order houses occupy a significant place in the German retail market. One of the major development in footwear retailing in Total sales in footwear are about € 1.2 billion in 2001. the UK is the shift away from specialised stores to Leading companies are Otto, Quelle, Neckermann and clothing and sports shops. Klingel. The Quelle Group, for many years market Independent specialised retailers: The British leader in Germany (and Europe), was passed by Otto. footwear retail market is dominated by multiple chains, The Otto Group is the world’s biggest mail-order house, with only 10 percent supplied by independent retailers. due to its many foreign activities. Neckermann, the The market share of the independent retailers was third mail-order company in Germany, is part of the 13 percent in 1996 and 10 percent in 2001. The main Karstadt Group. reasons for this fall were: consumers became Hyper- and supermarkets: Footwear can increasingly particularly price conscious, resulting in a shift towards be found in super- and hypermarkets, like: Metro, Aldi, buying in outlets which were widely regarded as Edeka/AVA, Tengelmann and Rewe. Sport and leisure offering value for money, such as variety stores like shoes are increasingly to be found in grocery stores. Marks & Spencer; secondly the increasing activities of Other channels: Street markets and the coffee clothing retailers. multiples Tchibo and Eduscho are other types of retail Footwear multiple stores: British Shoe, a subsidiary channels. of Sears plc, was by far the largest footwear retailer in the UK with 1,100 branded outlets which include formula like Dolcis, Cable, Saxone, Manfield, Freeman Hardy Willis, Curtess and Shoe Express, but was broken up in 1996-1997, and many of its formula disappeared; others were acquired by competitors.
48 C&J Clark became the leading retail footwear chain operations) are: GUS/Argos, Littlewoods, Grattan, with around 500 outlets, divided into several formula Freemans and Empire Stores. Grattan and Freemans are like Clarks (380), KShoes (70), Ravel (56) and a owned by the German mail order giant Otto Versand, number of concessions. The leading position of while French PRP owns Empire Stores. C&J Clark is strongest in children’s footwear. Super-and hypermarkets: Four major players Tesco, Other chains are Stylo plc (864 outlets including Sainsbury, ASDA (part of American Wal-Mart) and concessions). Stead & Simpson (472), The Shoe Studio Safeway dominate the UK grocery superstore scene, but Group (203), Shoefayre (366), Oliver Group (273), in general they have not followed the trend of non-food Dolcis (108 outlets and owned by Alexon Group). development as have, for instance, the leading French Clothing shops: Many clothing specialist multiples hypermarkets. The market share in footwear sales of the added footwear to their assortment: Top Shop/Top Man leading grocery retailers is quite limited, caused among (302), Evans (319), Principles (239), Dorothy Perkins other factors by competition from variety stores such as (511), Burton Menswear (367), Richards (202), Wallis M&S, Bhs and Debenham. (219), Warehouse (93), Miss Selfridge (fashionable wear for young women, 146 outlets) and Outfit (12). France All belong to the Arcadia Group. Major developments in French footwear retail in the Other general clothing multiples (in ranking of sales) period under review were growth in sales of footwear are Next (327 outlets), at a distance followed by by footwear specialised discount chains at the expense Matalan (96) and Mackays (271). All 113 outlets of of independent retailers and hypermarkets. C&A were closed in 2001. Other women’s clothing Footwear products are distributed in France by approx. stores are (in ranking of sales): Etam (212), New Look 6,700 retailers, including 42 chains. (452), Alexon (659) and Monsoon (189). Footwear distribution channels of less importance in Sports shops: The market share of sports shops France are department and variety stores, clothing (second after footwear multiples) is more important for shops and mail-order houses. Independent retailers men’s and children’s than for women’s footwear. often buy from French manufacturers, while multiple The shops offer branded high priced products like Nike, stores import by themselves, rather than buying from Reebok, Adidas, Kickers, Fila and Ellesse, as well as domestic manufacturers. low-priced own labels. The most popular items are trainers and outdoor boots, both items being more used for leisure/fashion than for the original function. Table 7.4 Market shares of retail distribution of Important sports multiples are: JJB Sports with footwear in France (in value, in %), 425 outlets, JD sports (133 outlets), Allsports 1997-2001 (250 outlets) and the recently started Blacks Leisure Group with 160 First Sport retail outlets, 266 Millets 1997 1999 2001 and some other chains,. More than 60 percent of the independent sport shops in Specialists 61 61 60 UK has joined a buying group. The three major buying Ð Independent retailers 24 23 21 groups are: Intersport, the largest with 280 outlets, ÐFootwear multiple stores 37 38 39 Southern Traders Alliance Group (STAG) with Non-specialists 39 39 40 200 outlets and Sport UK with 130 outlets. ÐDepartment and variety stores 3 3 4 Department and variety stores: The most important Ð Hyper- and supermarkets 13 11 12 variety chain is Marks & Spencer with 308 stores in the Ð Mail-order houses 3 3 4 UK, in Canada and until the end of 2001 also stores on ÐClothing shops 3 3 4 the European Continent. Marks & Spencer is Europe’s Ð Sport shops 13 13 11 leading clothing retailer, and an important retailer of Ð Other channels 4 6 5 foods, home furnishing and footwear. As mentioned Total 100 100 100 before all M&S stores on the European Continent were scheduled to be closed in the course of 2001. Source: INSEE Other variety chains are Bhs (160 stores), Littlewoods (115) and Woolworth (797). Catalogue showrooms are Argos (448 stores owned by GUS) and Index (Littlewoods) with 153 catalogue showrooms. Department store Debenham also sells footwear besides clothing in its 90 stores. Other department stores are: House of Fraser (50 stores) and John Lewis Partnership(25) . Mail-order houses: Some companies active in the mail-order sector (catalogue-based but also direct-mail
49 Independent specialised retailers: Independent 338 outlets and owned by Galeries Lafayette for retailers have grouped themselves into associations 50 percent, while nearly all 18 variety stores of UK’s which are buying organisations or franchise formula. Marks & Spencer (18) were closed in 2001. However, these associations are relatively limited in Super-and hypermarkets: The market share in importance. footwear for supermarkets and hypermarkets decreased Footwear multiple stores: There has been a strong in importance in the period under review. The market growth in specialist discount chains catering for share of hypermarkets was 10 percent in 2001, the customers seeking value for money. Three groups share of supermarkets was 2 percent. Important retail dominate in the field of footwear multiple stores: groups are Casino with a total of 4,550 outlets, Groupe André operates with the chain André, selling of which 112 Géant hypermarkets, 473 Casino mass market products in 242 outlets; discount chains supermarkets and 2,230 Petit Casino convenience Chaussland with 67 outlets and Halle Chaussures with stores; New Carrefour with a total of 1,700 outlets of 508 outlets, the chains Minelli (73 outlets), Besson which 178 Carrefour hypermarkets, 527 Champion Chaussures (55) and Orcade (70) sell medium and supermarkets and 418 Ed’s hard discount stores; upper range products; Groupe Bata, under the name Auchan with 940 outlets in total, of which Auchan Bata, sells mass market products in 253 outlets; hypermarkets (120) and Atac supermarkets (229). Groupe Eram operates with the largest chain Eram The German chains Metro, Lidl and Aldi also operate (1,200 outlets) on the mass market, fashion and young on the French market, with more than 1,100 outlets person’s footwear, the France Arno chain (130 outlets) together. selling upper-medium range men’s and women’s Mail-order houses: Redcats (PRP) , Trois Suisses footwear, Heyraud (47) selling boutique styles and (Otto Versand Germany), Camif and Quelle La Source fancy items and l’Hyper aux Chaussures selling (Quelle Germany) are the leading mail-order houses standard, good quality footwear at discount prices in with general catalogues. Clothing sales account for 120 outlets. Some smaller chains each with 36 percent of total mail-order sales; figures for footwear 10-20 outlets operate in the boutique style and fancy sales are not available but are very limited and are items for men, women and children. The formula Gemo estimated at around 4 percent. (177 outlets) combines standard, good quality footwear and textile products selling at discount prices. The Netherlands Bata and Eram continue to manufacture in France, The National Shoe Centre (Schoencentrum) of while only a very small part (less than 10 percent) The Netherlands in Nieuwegein (Utrecht) plays a of Groupe André’s retail sales come from its own pivotal role in shoe distribution in The Netherlands. production facilities. This is a permanent exhibition centre, where nearly all Other footwear chains in France are Beryl, Bally, the major manufacturers, importers and agents own Multichauss, San Marina and from Germany showrooms. It is estimated that 80% of all the footwear Salamander operating with 29 outlets. ranges on the domestic market can be viewed here, Clothing shops: Despite the fact that the leading and all retailers visit the Centre on a regular basis to footwear retailers Groupe André and Eram also operate “do their shopping”. on the clothing market, the market share for footwear in The Centre organises major expositions in March and clothing stores remained rather low because the formula September and there are open days several times a specialises in clothing, with exception of the above month, when all showrooms must be open. In addition, mentioned discounter Gemo (Groupe Eram). individual showroom owners are free to show their Footwear sales by the leading clothing chains C&A, collections to customers at any time. Zara and Alain Manoukian remained insignificant. The most important wholesalers/importers in Sports shops: The leading chains of sports shops in The Netherlands are: Eegim, Hengst, Henkelman, France are Déclathon (181 outlets), Intersport (413 Comforta, van Vliet, BP Orces. The address of the outlets, also operating under the names Sport Expert Association of Wholesale Import and Agency and Sport Leader), Go Sport (85 outlets), Sport 2000 Companies of Footwear (Vimagro) is provided for (420 outlets), Technicien du Sport (341 outlets) and reference in Appendix 4, while addresses of all Courir (124 outlets). Go Sport and Courir are part of wholesalers mentioned and many others are mentioned Rallye and will be merged. Most of them are buying in Appendix 10. groups and operate on an international basis. There were about 1,600 companies operating with in Department and variety stores: The major department total 3,000 stores at the end of 2001 in The Netherlands store chain in France is Galeries Lafayette (99 stores), footwear retail branch. also operating under the name Nouvelles Galeries. Table 7.5 gives an overview of sales of footwear by Another important department store is Printemps (27), several types of outlets for the period 1997-2001. owned by PPR (Pinault-Printemps-Redoute). The major food-dominant variety chainstore is The number of non-organized (independent) retailers Citymarché (Prisunic/Monoprix/Inno) with in total stabilised in the period under review, despite the strong
50 Table 7.5 Market shares of footwear by type of are Tiptoo (19 outlets) and Podo Linéa (65 outlets). retailers in The Netherlands, 1997-2001 Euro Holland operates in the mid and luxury segments (in % of value) with 105 outlets. There are also some franchise organisations for 1997 1999 2001 footwear, such as Nimco (24 outlets) and Nelson (25).
Specialists 82 82 82 Footwear multiple stores: The leading footwear Ð Independent retailers 42 41 41 retailer is Hoogenbosch (owned by Macintosh Retail ÐFootwear multiple stores 18 18 17 group) with 220 outlets and includes the following ÐFootwear discount chains 22 23 24 chains for specific target consumer groups in the middle Non-specialists 18 18 18 and upper segments: Dolcis (90 outlets), Invito (34), ÐDepartment and variety stores 3 3 3 Manfield (61), Pro Sport (10) and Olympus (sports: ÐClothing shops 2 2 3 10 and shoes: 15). Ð Sports shops 8 8 7 Van Haren (owned by Deichmann Schuhe from Essen, Ð Other outlets 4 5 5 Germany) has 110 stores under the same name and Total 100 100 100 operates just like Van Woensel (32), Nelson (25) and Ecco-Shop (40) in the lower segments of the market. Source: EIM and HBD The following multiple chains operate in the higher and medium price segments: Cinderella (19 outlets), Durlinger (21), Sacha Shoes (36), Ziengs (64) and competition, but in a favourably growing market. Van Vorst. (18). Besides these footwear multiples, The price consciousness of consumers can be illustrated 56 small chains operate with a total of 306 outlets. by the growth of discount outlets. Penetration by Footwear discount chains: Discounters have a broad foreign retailers in The Netherlands footwear market is assortment of all kinds of footwear, sports, leisure and limited and came mainly from organisations in casual clothing and accessories on the one side, and neighbouring countries like Germany (buying expanded with sports hardware, camping articles etc. corporations Garant and Ariston/Nord West Ring) and on the other side. In these lower-priced segments, Belgium (Mitiska NV is the holding company of we see an enormous rise in the number of outlets, Brantano Nederland, former names Van Vorst and as shown in the following table. Toe Shoes and Euro Shoe Unie which owns Bristol and Van Woensel). In recent years, the specialist shoe multiples have lost Table 7.6 Development in major footwear discount market share to the discount chains. The latter has chains in The Netherlands, 1997-2001 developed as a result of the flood of cheap imports from the Far East. They dominate the cheap end of the 1997 1999 2001 footwear market and account for 24 percent of total consumer expenditure on footwear. Schoenenreus 97 172 175 Schoenexpres 73 0 0 Independent specialised retailers: 45 percent of the Scapino 150 168 175 independent specialist shoe shops in The Netherlands Bristol 74 88 88 belongs to one of the three large buying cooperatives Massa Schoen en Mode 38 43 44 (Garant, Ariston/Nord West Ring and Euro Holland), Total 432 471 482 which together account for about 25% of retail shoe sales. 55 percent of the independent specialist sports shops belongs to one of the three buying cooperatives Scapino was sold by Vendex/KBB in 2001, together in this field (Garant, Euretco Sport and Intres). with some other chains, to a Dutch investment Garant is part of the major German-based buying group company. Scapino is a discount chain with sports-, Garant Schuh+Mode AG, which has a total of leisure- and casual wear, sports hardware etc. just like 3,160 members with almost 4,500 shops (excluding the Bristol and operates with 16 outlets in Belgium and sports and leisure sector) in 14 countries. 11 in Germany. Schoenenreus became the market leader Besides operating in Germany and The Netherlands in 1997 with the take over of Schoenexpres and reached (with 530 outlets), Garant is active in, among other the same number of outlets as Scapino in 2001. countries, Belgium, France, Austria, Switzerland and The assortment offered by Schoenenreus and Massa the Scandinavian countries. Mode consists mainly of footwear and clothing. The shoe division of Euretco was taken over by Garant Sports shops: Sport speciality shops are often members at the beginning of 1998 and continued to operate under of buying organisations with (often internationally) the name Promenade; it operates nowadays with operating selling formula, like Intersport, Fairplay and 80 outlets. Other formula of Garant in The Netherlands Sport 2000. These speciality shops and the sports
51 Organisation Formula Total outlets Total outlets Total outlets end 1997 end 1999 end 2001
Garant Fairplay International Sports 180 210 210 Euretco Sport Sport 2000 95 110 105 Sportpoint 108 89 80 Runnersworld 11 14 14 Intres Intersport 139 133 126 GOS 86 115 130 Total 619 671 665 specialists multiples remained by far the leading Italy distributors of sportswear with a market share (in terms Major developments in the Italian footwear retail trade of value) of 40 percent, followed by department stores in the period under review were growth in sales by with 10 percent. non-specialists like hypermarkets and by department and variety stores to the detriment of independent Specialised footwear chains are Foot Locker (40) and retailers. It is expected that this development will be Olympus Shoes (15). The following chains operate with continued in the coming years, while an increase of sport articles, including clothing and footwear on the multiples is also expected. Dutch market: Aktie Sport (75 outlets); Coach (55 Manufacturers of classic and exclusive, higher-priced outlets), Perry Sport (40) and Favoriet Sport (32). footwear sell mainly directly to retailers or through Due to the increase in popularity of sports and the agents. Wholesalers play an important role in fashion for sports, specialist shops have gained a share distribution and are generally used by manufacturers of of the footwear market. There are 900-1,000 sports cheaper, mass-market and standardised products. shops selling shoes, mainly expensive branded ranges Big retail chains like the Coin Group and the for active sports. Rinascente Group buy directly from producers but also Clothing stores: More and more clothing retailers have import by themselves. begun selling shoes and boots as an accessory to their main ranges. Some of them have their own buying Independent specialised retailers: Specialists department (like C&A), other retailers have footwear in dominate the Italian footwear retail sector, however, their assortment of the same brand as the fashion sold, the share of independent specialists is nevertheless like Diesel, Esprit, Mexx, Marc O’ Polo, Hugo Boss decreasing. This is due to the growth of specialised etc. multiples, department/variety stores and hypermarkets. Department and variety stores: The major retail The decreasing, but still important, market share of group in The Netherlands is Vendex/KBB. The leading department stores V&D (70 stores) and De Bijenkorf (10) and variety store Hema (254 both own branches Table 7.7 Market shares of retail distribution of and franchisees) are part of this holding company. footwear in Italy (in % of value), Hema operates also in Belgium. 1998-2001 V&D operates in the middle of the market; De Bijenkorf stocks high-quality, stylish and 1998 1999 2000 2001 appropriately priced products and in variety store Hema, all articles are sold under a private label. Specialists 63 62 62 62 The assortment of footwear in De Bijenkorf includes Ð Independent retailers 56 54 54 53 private labels as well as the better brand labels. ÐFootwear multiples 7 8 8 9 V&D operates in the middle of the market, while Hema Non-specialists 37 38 38 38 has good quality at lower prices (value-for-money ÐDepartment/variety stores 5 6 6 6 concept). The assortment of footwear at Hema does not ÐClothing shops 5 4 4 5 include leather footwear. Ð Sports shops 10 10 9 9 Other: The relevant mail-order catalogues are Ð Hyper- and supermarkets 6 7 7 7 Wehkamp, Otto, Neckermann and La Redoute, but their Ð Mail-order houses 0 0 0 0 market share in footwear is limited. A more important Ð Street markets 7 7 8 7 part of this category is taken by the street vendors. ÐOther 4 4 4 4 They are involved in clearing up stocks from Total 100 100 100 100 wholesalers and retailers and are not themselves involved in importing. Another part in this category is Source: ANCI Makro (wholesaler with retail activities).
52 independent retailers was realised by around The market share of department and variety stores in 13,000 companies. the UK is rather high (16%), including market leader Footwear multiple stores: The number of specialised Marks & Spencer. multiples is very limited in Italy. The largest chain is Around 45 percent of the independent retailers belong Compar Bata (184 outlets) owned by Bata Canada, to a buying group in Germany and The Netherlands. other chains are Spatafora with 80 and Rosetti with The large-scaled German buying groups (Garant, 16 stores. ANWR) expanded their activities to many other Clothing stores: Many specialist clothing shops also European countries, in particular to France and sell footwear in Italy, although shoe shops rarely sell The Netherlands. In the field of sports goods, including apparel. footwear, the degree of organisation is even more Sports shops: The two major buying groups are: important. Buying and selling formula like Fairplay, Intersport, the largest with around 300 outlets and Intersport, Sport 2000 are active in almost all EU Selezione Sport with 45 outlets. Important sports countries. Both systems obviously have various multiples are: Giacomelli Sport with 65 outlets, Big advantages for the retailers, the most important of Gym/Sport Discount (65) and Sergio Tacchini (110). which is a reduction in costs by centralising the The latter combines sports goods and outdoor clothing. functions of the collection department, buying and Giacomelli Sport is a fast growing and internationally logistics. The buying departments of large retail outlets operating chain with over 100 megastores in many West and the central buying organisations mainly purchase and East European countries. Sports chains from abroad their goods directly from the manufacturer/exporter. come from France Déclathon (7) and from the USA Footlocker (39). Unorganised independent retailers, with decreasing Department and variety stores: The major department market shares in most of the EU countries, buy directly stores in Italy are Coin (80 stores) and La Rinascenta from local or near-by manufacturers or agents (15). The Coin Gruppo owns the leading variety stores representing these manufacturers, as well as from La Standa (275) and Oviesse (110). Gruppo Rinascenta wholesalers/importers. covers variety store Upim (330). Most independent retailers are organised via franchise, Super-and hypermarkets: Hypermarkets grew in selling formula or buying groups. These organisations number, as did the clothing and footwear sales by these can be considered as multiple stores or chains. channels. The most important hypermarket chains are The original function of the buying groups was Citta Mercato, Rinascente, Joyland and Auchan. reduction in costs by centralising buying and logistics. Mail-order houses: The Italian mail-order market More and more selling formula for the members are remains relatively undeveloped, primarily due to being developed and the successful ones have been problems with distribution and the generally poor postal exploited as franchising activities. In particular in delivery service. The leading mail-order company, with Germany and The Netherlands, buying groups play a sales in footwear besides clothing and general goods, significant role for specialised independent retailers. is Postalmarket. The buying policy of buying groups becomes more and more similar to that of multiple stores. 7.2 Distribution channels for developing With regard to imports from outside Europe, countries wholesalers/importers, large multiples and buying Distribution channels in the selected markets within the cooperatives mainly act as contractors. They do not EU are different and each market has its own preferred seek own designs and collections from the foreign distribution system. In countries like The Netherlands manufacturer but rather competitive price levels and and Belgium, footwear is mainly distributed by standards of workmanship. The importer then specifies specialised retailers (independents and multiple stores). the models, materials, seasonal designs and colours, and The Netherlands and France have a high concentration the brands or fantasy labels to be used. Frequently, of distribution by multiple stores. It has to be noted that the importer will provide the appropriate lasts to be the market share of multiples in The Netherlands used or copied, as well as technical advice and quality consisted for more than half of the sales by footwear control. Some importers have their own local offices in discounters. In France, sports shops and hypermarkets the Far East and, in any case, their executives spend a have high market shares, resulting in a relatively low lot of time at the supplier factories. share for independent retailers. The southern member It should be noted that importers invest considerably in states Portugal, Italy and Spain have high market shares the development of their contract producer to enable the for independent retailers. factory to supply merchandise suitable for the European market. They therefore do not change suppliers frequently.
53 8 PRICES AND MARGINS
8.1 Margins is shown in table 8.1. A multiplier of between 2.6 and As a rule, companies which import from developing 3.1 on the manufacturer’s or importer’s price should be countries are looking for low-priced merchandise. used to calculate an appropriate final consumer price. The margins at the various different levels of Caused by factors like increasing competition at all distribution are influenced by six factors and are levels in the distribution columln, further concentration different for each product/market combination. and integration, the factor decreased considerably in the These factors are: last decade. Elimination of the wholesaler for instance ¥degree of risk; can lead to a somewhat lower multiplier of 2.4-2.9 used ¥volume of business; by footwear multiples, department and variety stores ¥ functions or marketing services rendered; and mail order companies. ¥general economic conditions (booming or depressed business); Table 8.2 illustrates the percentages calculated at each ¥ competition, and level of the distribution column, based on a consumer ¥exclusiveness. price of 100 for three products. Wholesalers and other importers base their costing on High-risk, low-volume, service-intensive products a CIF basis and apply their margins. In other words the require different margins to low-risk, high-volume landed cost for the importer is the FOB (free on board) standard products. It is impossible to draw up a cost plus the cost of transportation to the importer’s schedule of actual margins for each and every warehouse, including any import duty if applicable. product/market combination. Even within the same type If exporters find that their profit margins are too low, of combination, different importers employ different they should look at their costing and find methods to margins, due to variation in economic conditions. reduce or control costs to bring margins into line. If this The effect of low, medium and high margins on is not possible, the export market should be abandoned. consumer end price, based on one CIF (costs, insurance, freight) price for three different products, This means that exporters’ CIF prices should be in the range of 32-40 percent of the final consumer price. In absolute terms, it is more attractive for an exporter to Table 8.1 Calculation schedule: margins operate in the medium and high market. Margins vary greatly according to both type of product Low Medium High and retail channel. Thus the average footwear retailer marks goods up by 100 percent of the buying price, CIF Rotterdam/Amsterdam 100 100 100 with selected goods retailing up to 150 percent higher Import duties * * * than buying prices. In grocery stores (supermarkets and Charges on CIF basis: hypermarkets), footwear, mainly with uppers of rubber, Ð handling charges, transport/ plastic or textiles, achieves a gross margin of insurance and banking services 6 6 6 20-30 percent of the retail selling price. This figure is 106 106 106 highly attractive compared with the typical profit Wholesaler’s margin (30/35/40%) 32 37 42 margin on food and other grocery lines. 138 143 148 Retailer’s margin (55/65/75%) 76 93 111 Ð net selling price 214 236 259 Table 8.2 Calculation schedule: margins through Value Added Tax (VAT) the distribution (19% of net selling price **) 41 45 49 Ðgross selling price (consumer price) 255 281 308 Low Medium High
RATIO CIF/CONSUMER PRICE: 2.6 2.8 3.1 Consumer price 100 100 100 VAT (19% of net selling price) 16 16 16 *) 0, 2.4, 2.8, 3.5, 4.0, 4.9, 5.0, 5.6, 7.0, 8.0, 11.9 and Net selling price 84 84 84 17.0 percent of CIF value Retailer’s margin (55/65/75) 30 33 36 **) In practice, footwear retailers calculate a 80-110% 54 51 48 mark-up, incl. VAT and an important part of the Wholesaler’s margin (30/35/40) 12 13 14 assortment has been priced-off. In this calculation the 42 38 34 VAT tariff valid for The Netherlands is used, but note Charges 2 2 2 that this tariff varies per EU country. CIF prices 40 36 32
54 8.2 Prices department stores, which can be found on Internet. The market is intensively competitive and prices vary For instance in The Netherlands: Neckermann widely according to the product and type of outlet. (http://www.neck.nl) and Wehkamp Below, an overview is given of (average) retail prices in (http://www.wehkamp.nl); in Germany: Neckermann The Netherlands. Retail prices include VAT (19%). (http://www.neck.de) and Otto (http://www.otto.de) and in France: La Redoute (http://www.laredoute.fr). 8.3 Sources of price information All prices in these catalogues are given in euros (€). Another possibility is the e-mail shop of Deichmann Consumer prices (one of the leading German footwear retailers) with an Travelling to the centres of style gives a comprehensive assortment of more than 1,000 shoe models view of fashion trends and prices. Window shopping in (http://www.eshoes.com) European cities like London, Düsseldorf, Paris, Milan and to a lesser degree, Amsterdam will provide a good Trade prices insight. Observing prices quoted at trade shows provides Another indication of prices of similar shoes being sold another possibility to gather information. Trade fairs are in the major EU countries can be formed by browsing discussed in the relevant chapter of the EU strategic through the catalogues of mail-order houses and marketing guide.
Table 8.3 Retail prices for some selected footwear items in The Netherlands, 2001
Product Material Height Height Sizes Colours Prices in € heel in cm leg in cm
Women: Ð mule Leather 8 - 5 (36Ð41) 2: bordeaux, black 63.51 Ð pump Artificial leather 5/9 - 5 (4 Ð8) 3: black, navy, camel 22.67/40.82 Ð ankle-boot Artificial leather 9 13 5 (36-41) 2: black, bronze 54.43 Ð calf-boot Leather 7 30 5 (36Ð41) 1: black 84.90-108.88 Ð ankle-boot Suede 10 13 6 (3-8) 2: black, camel 54.43 Ð calf-/knee-length boots Suede - 30/40 7 (36-42) 3: beige, black, brown 63.51/72.58 Ð knee-length boot Artificial leather 5 36 6 (36-41) 3: lack-, suede-, leather-look 54.43 Ð sneaker Leather - - 6 (36-41) 3: bordeaux, black, bronze 44.90 Ð moccasin Nubuck leather - - 6 (3-8) 4: black, navy, beige, natural 40.82 Ð sandals Plastic - - 6 (3-8) 2: black/white, orange/red. 27.20 Ð slingback Satin 8 - 6 (3-8) 3: ivory, black, lila 31.74 Ð outdoor-slippers Plastic - - 6 (3-8) 3: white, black, rose 13.59-27.20 Ð indoor slippers Textile - - 7 (36-42) several 18.13-31.74 Men: Ðbrogue lace-shoe 1) Leather - - 6 (6Ð11) 1: black 36.28 9 (7-11) 2: black and brown. 90.73 Ð lace-shoe 2) Leather - - 6 (6Ð11) 1: black 31.74- 85.76 Ð lace-shoe Suede - - 7 (40-46) 2: black, brown 36.28 Ð ankle-boot (laces) Leather - 14 7 (40-46) 2: black, brown 36.28-58.97 Ð ankle-boot (laces) Suede or leather - 13 7 (40-46) 2: black, brown 40.82 Ð loafer 2) Leather - - 5 (7-11) 1: black 36.28-90.30
1) resp brandless and branded (Berkelmans) 2) resp. brandless and branded (Wrangler)
55 9 OPPORTUNITIES FOR DEVELOPING COUNTRY EXPORTERS
Opportunities in EU major markets in 2002. The situation is worsening for independent Demographic developments and a (weak) price inflation retailers, but multiples in the mid-segments also met are the main factors of a slightly growing footwear strong competition from footwear discount chains. market in Germany. Many factors like economic These chains are increasing their retail space. Just like limitations (consumer spending in Germany is low in Germany, the role of leisure and casual footwear will compared to other major EU countries), intensive price remain dominant. competition (increasing market shares for non-specialist retailers), growing imports from low-cost countries Demand for footwear in the EU will continue to (direct imports as well as production abroad under the increase in the coming years. The number of pairs of regime of German manufacturers) etc. influenced the shoes purchased per head of population will continue to footwear market. rise. In order to satisfy the requirements of importing The weak position of footwear in consumer expenditure European companies, exporters in developing countries in Germany will recover, according to the forecasts. will be faced with increased demands for higher quality The improved outlook for the German economy as a and environmentally friendly products. With the correct whole is expected to support consumer spending on strategy and carefully thought out development plan, footwear and growth is expected of around 1.5 percent there is no reason why these challenges cannot be met. per year for the coming period until 2006. There has been an increased focus on all varieties of casual and Advice to exporters health/comfort footwear, which will be continued for The importers’ Ð wholesalers and the organised the coming years. retailers Ð desired time between buying and selling has to be shorter. This shorter lead time is necessary to Prices of footwear in the UK declined much more in meet the demands set by rapidly changing fashions. the last decade than in other EU countries. In the Effective competition by developing countries requires coming period 2003-2006 footwear expenditure is knowledge of the legal, technical, quality and fashion expected to increase by about 2 percent per annum. requirements. They have to monitor and understand Developments in retailing (British Shoe, M&S, C&A) developments in the target countries and to ensure that in the UK are symptoms of a weak market. A further quality requirements are strictly met. polarisation is expected, resulting in more price Some experts are of the opinion that instead of competition in the form of discounting. concentrating on increasing volumes, developing countries should shift production profiles to higher- Consumption of footwear in France is expected to value footwear products. Another point of view, grow in line with the European average during the next however, suggests to specialise based on experience and 5 years. Increasing imports, mainly from low-wage to try to obtain a higher degree of efficiency in countries have led to serious competition for French production. It is evident that both production strategies products. This has further aggravated the concentration have to be combined with the recommendations process in footwear retail, which is already rather high mentioned earlier. in France. A start, which involves limited risks and is chosen by the majority of exporters in developing countries, is to The retail market remained very fragmented in Italy, try to acquire fixed orders for products specified by the with a dominant role for independent specialists. client. The latter is at home in his market and knows all Besides increased imports of parts of footwear for final the “ins and outs” of his permanently changing market assembly in the Italian industry and increased outward place. processing trade, the imports of ready-to-wear items As mentioned above, exporters in the footwear sector from developing countries increased too. are confronted with many aspects like sizing, There is an intensive co-operation between independent packaging, environmental aspects, resulting in a lot of unorganised retailers and domestic manufacturers, technical requirements, added to which are aspects of therefore other channels in retail and wholesale can design, fashionability, market developments etc. present opportunities for exporters. For that reason, co-operation in a variety of forms The Italian market will grow more or less in line with between importer and exporter can be necessary. the EU average, too in the coming years. The most important determining factors for exporters operating on this basis are the combination of price, Footwear expenditure in The Netherlands was very product quality and reliability of deliveries and delivery low in the last two decades. A signal of recovery was times. More further-reaching forms of potential given in 1997, followed by strong increases in recent co-operation are joint ventures and co-makership years. It is anticipated that the market will be saturated agreements
56 Companies in developing countries, which are continually adapting new technologies and have the advantage of low production costs, are at an advantage. Another advantage applies to exporters in economically and politically stable developing countries. The keen competition on the footwear market will steadily increase and this leads to further opportunities for exporters in low-cost countries. The role of wholesalers/importers will remain stable, while the role of footwear multiples and, to a lesser degree, buying groups or franchise formula will slightly increase in the coming years. The buying policies of super- and hypermarkets vary from direct imports by the internationally operating chains to buying from wholesalers/importers.
The CBI Strategic Marketing Guide ’Footwear’ familiarises (potential) exporters with the requirements of the EU footwear market, offers a market opportunity analysis to determine suitable sales channels and a checklist for building up a trading link.
57 APPENDIX 1 DETAILED CLASSIFICATION OF FOOTWEAR, BY HARMONISED SYSTEM CODE
HS Code Product description
6401.10.100 Waterproof footwear with steel toe-cap, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of rubber, not stitched together. 6401.10.900 Waterproof footwear with steel toe-cap, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of plastic, not stitched together. 6401.91.100 Other waterproof footwear, covering the knee, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of rubber, not stitched together. 6401.91.900 Other waterproof footwear, covering the knee, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of plastic, not stitched together. 6401.92.100 Other waterproof footwear, not covering the ankle or knee, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of rubber, not stitched together. 6401.92.900 Other waterproof footwear, not covering the ankle or knee, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of plastic, not stitched together. 6401.99.100 Other waterproof footwear, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of rubber, not stitched together. 6401.99.900 Other waterproof footwear, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of plastic, not stitched together.
6402.12.100 Ski boots, outer sole and upper of rubber or plastic. 6402.12.900 Snowboard boots, outer sole and upper of rubber or plastic. 6402.19.000 Other sports footwear, outer sole and upper of rubber or plastic. 6402.20.000 Footwear, outer and upper of rubber or plastic, upper of straps attached to the sole with plugs. 6402.30.000 Footwear, incorporating a protective metal toe-cap with uppers of rubber, with outer soles of rubber or plastic. 6402.91.000 Other footwear, covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of rubber. 6402.99.100 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of rubber. 6402.99.310 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of plastic, with vamp of straps or with pieces cut out, heel including sole more than 3 cm. 6402.99.390 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of plastic, with vamp of straps or with pieces cut out, heel including sole 3 cm or less. 6402.99.500 Slippers and other indoor shoes, not covering the ankle, outer sole and upper of rubber or plastic. 6402.99.910 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber or plastic, plastic cover, inner sole less than 24 cm. 6402.99.930 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of plastic, inner sole 24 cm or more. 6402.99.960 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of plastic, outer sole of rubber or plastic, inner sole 24 cm or more, for men. 6402.99.980 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber of plastic, upper of plastic, inner sole 24 cm or more, for women.
6403.12.000 Ski-footwear and snowboard boots, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or (synthetic) leather. 6403.19.000 Other sports footwear, upper of leather, outer of rubber, plastic or (synthetic) leather. 6403.20.000 Footwear, upper of leather straps across the instep or around the big toe, outer sole of leather. 6403.30.000 Footwear, wooden basis, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or (synthetic) leather, without inner sole or steel toe-cap. 6403.40.000 Footwear, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or (synthetic) leather, with steel toecap 6403.51.110 Footwear, covering the ankle but under the calf, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole less than 24 cm. 6403.51.150 Footwear, covering the ankle but under the calf, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for men. 6403.51.190 Footwear, covering the ankle but under the calf, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for women. 6403.51.910 Other footwear, covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole less than 24 cm.
58 6403.51.950 Other footwear, covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for men. 6403.51.990 Other footwear, covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for women. 6403.59.110 Footwear, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, with vamp of straps or with pieces cut out, heel including soles more than 3 cm. 6403.59.310 Footwear, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, with vamp of straps or with pieces cut out, inner sole less than 24 cm, heel including soles 3 cm or less. 6403.59.350 Footwear, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, with v amp of straps or with pieces cut out, inner sole 24 cm or more, heel including soles 3 cm or less, for men. 6403.59.390 Footwear, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, with vamp of straps or with pieces cut out, inner sole 24 cm or more, heel including soles 3 cm or less, for women. 6403.59.500 Slippers and other indoor shoes, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather. 6403.59.910 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole less than 24 cm. 6403.59.950 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for men. 6403.59.990 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper and outer sole of leather, inner sole 24 cm or less, for women. 6403.91.110 Other footwear, covering the ankle but under the calf, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, inner sole less than 24 cm. 6403.91.130 Other footwear, with outer soles of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, with uppers of leather, covering the ankle but under the calf, inner sole 24 cm or more. 6403.91.160 Other footwear, covering the ankle but under the calf, upper of leather, outer of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for men. 6403.91.180 Other footwear, covering the ankle but under the calf, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for women. 6403.91.910 Other footwear, covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, inner sole less than 24 cm. 6403.91.930 Other footwear, covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, upper of leather, inner sole 24 cm or more 6403.91.960 Other footwear, covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, upper of leather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for men. 6403.91.980 Other footwear, covering the ankle, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, upper of leather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for women. 6403.99.110 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, with vamp of straps or pieces cut out, heel including soles more than 3 cm. 6403.99.310 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, with vamp of straps or pieces cut out, inner sole less than 24 cm, heel including soles 3 cm or less. 6403.99.330 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, with vamp of straps or pieces cut out, inner sole 24 cm or more, heel including soles 3 cm or less. 6403.99.360 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, with vamp of straps or pieces cut out, inner sole 24 cm or more, heel including soles 3 cm or less, for men. 6403.99.380 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, with vamp of straps or pieces cut out, inner sole 24 cm or more, heel including soles 3 cm or less, for women. 6403.99.500 Slippers and other indoor shoes, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber plastic or synthetic leather. 6403.99.910 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, inner sole less than 24 cm. 6403.99.930 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, inner sole 24 cm or more. 6403.99.960 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for men. 6403.99.980 Other footwear, not covering the ankle, upper of leather, outer sole of rubber, plastic or synthetic leather, inner sole 24 cm or more, for women.
59 6404.11.000 Sports footwear, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of textile. 6404.19.100 Slippers and other indoor shoes, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of textile. 6404.19.900 Other footwear, outer sole of rubber or plastic, upper of textile. 6404.20.100 Slippers and other indoor shoes, outer sole of (synthetic) leather, upper of textile. 6404.20.900 Other footwear, outer sole of (synthetic) leather, upper of textile.
6405.10.100 Footwear, upper of (synthetic) leather, outer sole of wood or cork. 6405.10.900 Footwear, upper of (synthetic) leather, outer sole of other material. 6405.20.100 Footwear, upper of textile, outer sole of wood or cork. 6405.20.910 Slippers and other indoor shoes, upper of textile, outer sole of other material. 6405.20.990 Other footwear, upper of textile, outer sole of other material. 6405.90.100 Other footwear upper of other material, outer sole of rubber, plastic or (synthetic) leather. 6405.90.900 Other footwear, upper and outer sole of other material.
6406.10.110 Leather uppers, whether or not attached to soles other than outer soles. 6406.10.190 Parts of leather uppers (excl. stiffeners). 6406.10.900 Uppers, whether or not attached to soles other than outer soles and parts thereof. 6406.20.100 Outer soles and heels of rubber. 6406.20.900 Outer soles and heels of plastic. 6406.91.000 Parts of footwear, of wood. 6406.99.100 Gaiters, leggings and similar articles and parts thereof. 6406.99.300 Assemblies of uppers affixed to inner soles or to other sole components. 6406.99.500 Removable in-soles, heel cushions and other removable accessories. 6406.99.600 Outer soles of shoes, of leather or composition leather. 6406.99.800 Other parts of footwear.
60 APPENDIX 2 DETAILED IMPORT AND EXPORT STATISTICS OF FOOTWEAR BY PRODUCT TYPE AND AREA OF ORIGIN INTO THE EU, 1998-2000
Table 2.1 Imports of footwear into EU in volume and value, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 mln mln mln mln mln mln mln mln pairs US$ pairs US$ euro € pairs US$ euro €
Waterproof footwear: Ð safety 2.7 31 2.7 31 29 2.7 26 28 Ð outdoor 21.8 143 25.3 145 137 24.4 116 126 24.5 174 26.8 176 166 27.1 142 154 Footwear with outer sole and uppers of plastic or rubber: Ð sports 40.4 523 42.0 518 487 45.3 504 546 Ð safety 0.2 4 0.2 4 4 0.4 6 7 Ð slippers/indoor 13.3 41 12.5 44 41 11.0 35 38 Ð outdoor 256.8 1,692 284.7 1,701 1,597 314.4 1,908 2,072 310.7 2,260 338.1 2,267 2,129 371.1 2,453 2,663 Footwear with uppers of leather: Ð sports 36.5 711 35.8 635 596 39.7 621 674 Ð safety 16.9 337 19.7 366 344 24.8 378 410 slippers/indoor, outer soles of: Ð leather 4.4 24 3.5 21 20 3.0 16 17 Ðrubber or plastic 10.6 83 11.8 91 85 12.9 95 103 outdoor footwear, outer soles of: Ð leather 74.1 1,767 76.8 1,633 1,533 70.3 1,462 1,586 Ðrubber, plastic, synth. leather 475.5 7,851 534.9 8,327 7,819 562.9 7,882 8,549 Ð other 25.3 195 19.9 183 172 15.4 133 145 643.3 10,968 702.4 11,256 10,569 729.0 10,587 11,484
Footwear with uppers of textiles: Ð sports 115.1 1,462 112.6 1,400 1315 109.4 1,359 1,474 slippers/indoor, outer soles of: Ð leather 2.5 11 3.0 11 11 2.4 10 10 Ðrubber or plastic 73.2 240 79.7 234 219 88.9 229 248 Ð other outer soles 95.0 168 93.8 165 155 93.4 163 177 outdoor footwear, outer soles of: Ðrubber or plastic 141.1 745 157.6 842 791 157.2 800 867 Ð leather 8.8 98 5.3 84 79 4.3 64 69 Ð other 26.4 72 23.2 60 56 13.0 46 50 462.1 2,796 475.2 2,796 2,626 468.6 2,671 2,895
Footwear with other uppers 22.9 107 30.1 132 124 24.0 104 113 Parts of footwear 9.3 2,099 6.8 2,059 1,932 7.5 1,898 2,058
Total imports of footwear 1472.8 18,404 1581.9 18,686 17,546 1627.3 17,855 19,367 Of which from: Extra EU 821.8 7,827 916.7 8,338 7,830 967.1 8,485 9,213 Developing countries 661.0 5,574 731.1 5,881 5,523 785.0 6,207 6,732
Source: Eurostat
61 Table 2.2 Imports of total footwear into EU by area of origin, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 mln mln mln mln mln mln mln mln pairs US$ pairs US$ euro € pairs US$ euro €
From other EU countries Ð Italy 244 3,745 244 3,505 3,291 240 2,964 3,215 ÐPortugal 83 1,477 81 1,445 1,357 76 1,232 1,336 Ð Spain 96 1,253 103 1,219 1,145 93 1,022 1,108 ÐThe Netherlands 55 674 56 742 697 67 866 939 Ð Belgium 56 1,132 61 1,129 1,060 62 1,156 1,254 Ð other EU countries 117 2,296 120 2,307 2,166 122 2,114 2,302 Total intra-EU 651 11,845 665 10,348 9,716 660 9,354 10,154 From developing countries: Ð Asia Ð China 272 1,261 304 1,470 1,380 324 1,661 1,802 ÐVietnam 147 967 178 1,366 1,283 190 1,509 1,637 Ð Indonesia 67 588 65 615 577 63 616 668 Ð India 24 377 29 456 428 30 444 481 ÐThailand 38 321 34 316 297 34 286 310 Ð Macao 6 66 9 89 84 15 133 144 Ð Cambodia 3 13 6 37 35 11 63 68 Ð other 41 763 41 347 326 44 326 355 Ð Mediterranean ÐTunisia 8 230 11 280 263 14 295 320 ÐMorocco 11 145 12 171 161 13 162 175 Ð other 7 104 6 61 57 9 52 59 Ð Central & Eastern Europe ÐCroatia 8 155 7 154 145 7 151 164 Ð Slovenia 4 69 3 65 61 2 53 57 Ð Bosnia/Herzegovina 2 45 3 49 46 4 63 69 Ð other 8 223 8 124 117 10 128 141 Ð Central & South America ÐBrazil 12 189 13 210 197 13 209 227 ÐMexico 1 19 1 14 13 0 8 9 Ð other 1 40 0 12 11 1 10 11 ÐOther 3 44 4 45 42 5 31 35 Total developing countries 661 5,574 731 5,881 5,523 785 6,200 6,732 From other countries: ÐWestern Europe Ð Switzerland 2 68 2 64 60 3 69 75 Ð other 0 15 0 5 5 0 8 9 Ð Central & Eastern Europe Ð Romania 38 565 45 704 661 53 794 862 Ð Hungary 13 275 14 312 293 15 292 317 Ð Poland 14 155 17 169 159 15 144 156 Ð Slovakia 9 143 10 186 175 13 211 228 Ð other 25 516 24 393 369 23 323 352 ÐNorth America Ð USA 5 101 5 94 88 4 82 89 Ð other 0 20 1 11 10 0 7 8 Ð Asia ÐTaiwan 38 210 44 247 232 43 204 221 Ð Hong Kong 14 114 19 230 216 11 121 131 Ð other 3 68 5 37 35 2 26 28 ÐOther 0 3 0 4 4 0 4 5 Total other countries 161 2,253 186 2,457 2,307 182 2,285 2,481
Total 1,473 18,404 1,582 18,686 17,546 1,627 17,855 19,367
Source: Eurostat
62 Table 2.3 Exports of footwear by EU in volume and value, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 mln mln mln mln mln mln mln mln pairs US$ pairs US$ euro € pairs US$ euro €
Waterproof footwear: Ð safety 2.0 31 2.1 30 28 2.6 30 33 Ð outdoor 20.3 143 23.2 136 128 21.2 115 125 22.3 174 25.3 166 156 23.8 145 158 Footwear with outer sole and uppers of plastic or rubber: Ð sports 22.1 485 22.8 528 496 21.2 503 546 Ð safety 0.4 7 0.3 5 5 0.4 5 5 Ð slippers/indoor 11.1 46 10.0 46 43 10.9 38 42 Ð outdoor 109.5 989 104.2 919 863 111.0 1,000 1,085 143.1 1,527 137.3 1,498 1,407 143.5 1,546 1,678 Footwear with uppers of leather: Ð sports 23.1 609 23.2 559 525 25.2 542 588 Ð safety 16.2 361 15.7 341 320 18.0 332 361 slippers/indoor, outer soles of: Ð leather 4.5 26 4.1 27 25 4.7 24 26 Ðrubber or plastic 9.8 81 8.5 77 72 8.7 73 80 outdoor footwear, outer soles of: Ð leather 152.9 4,230 139.0 3,721 3,494 137.7 3,615 3,921 Ðrubber, plastic, synth. leather 363.2 7,469 379.0 7,473 7,017 360.0 6,849 7,429 Ð other 15.0 187 10.9 153 144 9.0 118 128 584.7 12,963 580.4 12,351 11,597 563.3 11,553 12,533
Footwear with uppers of textiles: Ð sports 47.3 869 47.0 855 803 41.8 723 782 slippers/indoor, outer soles of: Ð leather 1.6 12 2.1 14 13 1.3 11 12 Ðrubber or plastic 42.8 179 40.4 158 148 40.6 140 152 Ð other outer soles 17.5 53 16.7 49 46 19.5 48 52 outdoor footwear, outer soles of: Ðrubber or plastic 54.5 454 57.5 494 464 56.2 428 464 Ð leather 8.7 199 9.6 199 187 8.6 156 169 Ð other 12.3 68 10.9 55 52 9.0 54 58 184.7 1,834 184.2 1,824 1,713 177.0 1,560 1,692
Footwear with other uppers 30.2 232 29.2 201 189 26.3 177 192 Parts of footwear 2.0 1,626 2.2 1,604 1,505 2.4 1,557 1,684
Total exports of footwear 967.0 18,357 958.6 17,644 16,567 936.3 16,538 17,937 of which: Outside the EU 264.7 6,355 238.9 5,805 5,458 246.9 5,983 6,488
Source: Eurostat
63 APPENDIX 3 SPECIFICATION OF IMPORTS OF FOOTWEAR BY PRODUCT TYPE INTO MAJOR EU COUNTRIES, 1998-2000
Table 3.1 Imports of footwear into Germany in volume and value, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 ’000 US$ ’000 US$ euro € ’000 US$ euro € pairs ’000 pairs ’000 ’000 pairs ’000 ’000
Waterproof footwear: Ð safety 504 5,809 511 5,034 4,723 399 3,533 3,832 Ð outdoor 6,470 34,070 8,412 40,037 37,566 7,296 28,973 31,426 Footwear with outer sole and uppers of plastic or rubber: Ð sports 3,348 72,937 3,319 60,900 57,141 3,819 62,685 67,993 Ð safety 13 209 7 211 198 27 362 393 Ð slippers/indoor 3,905 13,662 4,733 16,776 15,741 3,219 11,489 12,462 Ð outdoor 58,344 409,049 66,818 419,368 393,484 77,926 487,890 529,201 Footwear with uppers of leather: Ð sports 5,502 130,406 4,143 94,720 88,874 4,799 86,994 94,360 Ð safety 5,361 111,324 5,816 108,295 101,611 5,989 96,171 104,314 slippers/indoor, outer soles of: Ð leather 1,267 8,206 951 6,716 6,302 816 4,825 5,234 Ðrubber or plastic 4,737 405,063 4,489 341,613 320,529 3,975 261,021 283,122 Outdoor footwear, outer soles of: Ð leather 14,730 36,076 13,529 35,388 33,204 10,545 28,886 31,332 Ðrubber, plastic, synth. leather 149,271 2373,254 160,095 2430,360 2280,358 148,838 2103,339 2281,435 Ð other 4,187 49,124 2,641 36,40134,155 1,836 15,887 17,232 Footwear with uppers of textiles: Ð sports 18,398 220,886 16,050 173,725 163,003 13,342 147,354 159,831 slippers/indoor, outer soles of: Ð leather 74 849 274 1,043 979 253 783 850 Ðrubber or plastic 18,289 78,886 17947 70,553 66,198 17,454 60,166 65,260 Ð other outer soles 10,104 22,375 11670 25,368 23,800 11,499 23,798 25,813 Outdoor footwear, outer soles of: Ðrubber or plastic 25,024 162,942 28179 196,238 184,126 30,590 190,740 206,891 Ð leather 579 11,349 454 9,073 8,513 663 8,840 9,589 Ð other 2,928 8,811 2238 6,722 6,307 1,961 4,985 5,407 Footwear with other uppers 3,700 16,473 5444 27,201 25,523 3,577 13,322 14,450 Parts of footwear 1,401 408,514 1046 396,971 372,470 1,697 359,892 390,363
Total imports of footwear 338,136 4580,276 358,766 4502,713 4224,805 350,520 4001,935 4340,790 Of which Extra-EU 162,631 1777,541 183,852 1832,526 1720,682 188,161 1777,444 1927,939 Developing countries 122,132 1194,079 139,935 1232,565 1157,338 146,575 1242,799 1349,402
Source: Eurostat
64 Table 3.2 Imports of footwear into United Kingdom in volume and value, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 ’000 US$ ’000 US$ euro € ’000 US$ euro € pairs ’000 pairs ’000 ’000 pairs ’000 ’000
Waterproof footwear: Ð safety 360 5,601 196 3139 2945 207 1939 2103 Ð outdoor 2,042 16,733 1749 13335 12512 1900 10582 11478 Footwear with outer sole and uppers of plastic or rubber: Ð sports 7,514 58,136 8,448 82,134 77,065 6,604 53,702 58,249 Ð safety 8 139 12 183 172 83 617 669 Ð slippers/indoor 1,141 3,155 1,403 4,031 3,782 1,534 4,307 4,672 Ð outdoor 45,272 306,425 46,495 302,284 283,627 50,294 313,128 339,642 Footwear with uppers of leather: Ð sports 6,570 112,679 6,365 105,628 99,109 6,543 104,341 113,176 Ð safety 2,173 45,577 3,277 62,315 58,469 4,196 69,645 75,542 slippers/indoor, outer soles of: Ð leather 689 4,044 483 3,554 3,335 337 2,568 2,785 Ðrubber or plastic 407 3,632 793 5,977 5,608 1,340 10,930 11,856 Outdoor footwear, outer soles of: Ð leather 19,410 383,508 21,303 378,127 354,789 18,636 349,696 379,306 Ðrubber, plastic, synth. leather 89,561 1469,148 108,545 1608,175 1508,918 96,113 1419,917 1540,146 Ð other 11,487 40,854 9,036 46,397 43,533 6,323 35,725 38,750 Footwear with uppers of textiles: Ð sports 18,302 234,802 18,205 219,248 205,716 16,757 183,662 199,213 slippers/indoor, outer soles of: Ð leather 395 2,373 383 1,970 1,848 318 1,742 1,889 Ðrubber or plastic 13,060 41,929 15,769 48,932 45,912 19,092 52,939 57,421 Ð other outer soles 17,004 35,208 16,925 33,684 31,605 17,289 36,930 40,057 Outdoor footwear, outer soles of: Ðrubber or plastic 14,868 99,447 17,179 126,744 118,921 19,258 124,320 134,847 Ð leather 5,006 37,788 1,817 27,979 26,252 1,172 18,809 20,402 Ð other 3,317 8,796 6,446 10,116 9,492 2,687 8,131 8,820 Footwear with other uppers 3,898 26,176 7,196 33,853 31,764 4,577 24,742 26,837 Parts of footwear 61 206,611 189 208,372 195,511 774 176,584 191,534
Total imports of footwear 262,545 3142,761 292,214 3326,177 3120,885 276,034 3004,956 3259,394 Of which Extra-EU 139,345 1285,284 156,963 1433,773 1346,266 174,545 1506,113 1633,634 Developing countries 127,165 1150,232 142,731 1280,636 1202,475 161,951 1370,471 1486,508
Source: Eurostat
65 Table 3.3 Imports of footwear into France in volume and value, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 ’000 US$ ’000 US$ euro € ’000 US$ euro € pairs ’000 pairs ’000 ’000 pairs ’000 ’000
Waterproof footwear: Ð safety 366 3,052 278 2,870 2,693 496 3,921 4,253 Ð outdoor 3,756 20,794 3,770 20,109 18,868 3,730 17,674 19,170 Footwear with outer sole and uppers of plastic or rubber: Ð sports 5,250 111,253 4,583 105,838 99,306 5,263 104,783 113,655 Ð safety 11 127 13 144 135 5 69 75 Ð slippers/indoor 1,287 3,529 730 2,875 2,698 1,140 3,026 3,282 Ð outdoor 43,098 284,955 45,661 277,313 260,197 52,762 308,986 335,149 Footwear with uppers of leather: Ð sports 3,676 73,611 3,639 71,273 66,874 3,963 70,503 76,473 Ð safety 2,523 39,297 2,586 39,451 37,016 3,936 48,935 53,078 slippers/indoor, outer soles of: Ð leather 320 2,796 388 3,261 3,060 311 1,709 1,854 Ðrubber or plastic 711 5,210 951 6,620 6,211 734 5,260 5,705 Outdoor footwear, outer soles of: Ð leather 14,565 373,269 15,015 353,816 331,978 14,889 327,797 355,553 Ðrubber, plastic, synth. leather 67,132 1092,834 67,110 1061,813 996,278 77,066 1123,054 1218,147 Ð other 3,690 50,898 2,894 46,737 43,852 2,545 38,206 41,441 Footwear with uppers of textiles: Ð sports 18,107 208,459 14,513 171,173 160,608 18,362 213579 231663 slippers/indoor, outer soles of: Ð leather 1,313 3,726 1,726 5,611 5,265 1,207 4,396 4,768 Ðrubber or plastic 18,984 39,889 21,448 42,758 40,119 26,428 46,539 50,480 Ð other outer soles 21,521 28,717 21,477 28,623 26,856 21,311 28,577 30,997 Outdoor footwear, outer soles of: Ðrubber or plastic 36,946 176,007 38,987 190,992 179,204 37,387 169,577 183,936 Ð leather 1,264 15,222 1,079 14,906 13,986 697 10,158 11,018 Ð other 3,879 13,139 3,179 11,327 10,628 1,866 9,608 10,422 Footwear with other uppers 2,371 12,186 2,872 15,505 14,548 3,491 13,304 14,431 Parts of footwear 1,342 243,245 1,033 237,569 222,907 1,153 213,355 231,418
Total imports of footwear 252,112 2802,214 253,932 2710,584 2543,287 278,742 2763,016 2996,968 Of which Extra-EU 124,530 849,634 131,674 888,996 834,738 144,725 922,870 1001,012 Developing countries 113,128 701,200 118,007 736,347 691,405 130,970 776,950 842,736
Source: Eurostat
66 Table 3.4 Imports of footwear into Italy in volume and value, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 ’000 US$ ’000 US$ euro € ’000 US$ euro € pairs ’000 pairs ’000 ’000 pairs ’000 ’000
Waterproof footwear: Ð safety 62 1,081 245 1,862 1,747 427 1,521 1,650 Ð outdoor 1,479 10,188 1,704 9,597 9,005 2,852 8,714 9,452 Footwear with outer sole and uppers of plastic or rubber: Ð sports 5,194 70,044 5,875 66,044 61,968 9,219 77,298 83,843 Ð safety 11 239 14 268 251 63 505 548 Ð slippers/indoor 1,126 3,095 947 2,841 2,666 790 1,798 1,950 Ð outdoor 23,569 117,965 32,456 139,066 130,483 30,838 159,031 172,497 Footwear with uppers of leather: Ð sports 7,323 132,730 5,455 95,777 89,866 5,152 87,384 94,783 Ð safety 3,346 51,416 3,986 56,326 52,850 5,559 56,121 60,873 slippers/indoor, outer soles of: Ð leather 472 2,032 361 1,539 1,444 329 1,059 1,149 Ðrubber or plastic 1,027 7,473 1,713 12,327 11,566 2,977 18,037 19,564 Outdoor footwear, outer soles of: Ð leather 6,135 95,694 7,429 105,688 99,165 7,112 96,462 104,630 Ðrubber, plastic, synth. leather 38,205 544,094 46,086 652,059 611,814 54,408 726,006 787,479 Ð other 915 8,503 686 8,192 7,686 865 6,225 6,752 Footwear with uppers of textiles: Ð sports 18,498 211,646 17,940 241,237 226,348 18,556 250,370 271,569 slippers/indoor, outer soles of: Ð leather 137 764 68 473 444 98 727 789 Ðrubber or plastic 7,037 19,087 8,021 19,303 18,112 7,901 17,103 18,551 Ð other outer soles 22,614 35,040 20,660 33,043 31,004 18,926 29,010 31,466 Outdoor footwear, outer soles of: Ðrubber or plastic 20,262 86,046 24,496 94,938 89,078 22,983 92,507 100,340 Ð leather 385 3,948 477 4,433 4,159 426 3,707 4,021 Ð other 2,948 6,932 2,253 5,896 5,532 958 2,364 2,564 Footwear with other uppers 2,509 11,876 4,669 14,334 13,449 5,409 19,189 20,814 Parts of footwear 4,994 757,371 2,646 732,960 687,721 2,678 740,342 803,028
Total imports of footwear 168,248 2177,264 188,187 2298,203 2156,358 198,526 2395,480 2598,312 Of which Extra-EU 142,553 1686,684 157,020 1720,313 1615,317 169,282 1850,102 2008,797 Developing countries 97,412 874,667 105,983 869,893 816,800 111,351 926,710 1005,174
Source: Eurostat
67 Table 3.5 Imports of footwear into The Netherlands in volume and value, 1998-2000
1998 1999 2000 ’000 US$ ’000 US$ euro € ’000 US$ euro € pairs ’000 pairs ’000 ’000 pairs ’000 ’000
Waterproof footwear: Ð safety 736 3,941 619 4,301 4,036 295 2,623 2,845 Ð outdoor 1,222 7,498 1,421 7,773 7,293 1,338 5,424 5,883 Footwear with outer sole and uppers of plastic or rubber: Ð sports 992 12,996 1,971 20,706 19,428 1,632 20,002 21,696 Ð safety 5 82 22 309 290 20 295 320 Ð slippers/indoor 855 2,488 659 3,236 3,036 696 2,884 3,128 Ð outdoor 24,473 155,051 27,781 161,849 151,860 29,833 189,950 206,034 Footwear with uppers of leather: Ð sports 1,188 26,467 2,005 34,521 32,390 2,362 34,946 37,905 Ð safety 497 14,334 685 17,413 16,338 843 19,311 20,946 slippers/indoor, outer soles of: Ð leather 901 1,930 704 1,425 1,337 444 968 1,050 Ðrubber or plastic 294 3,534 494 4,283 4,019 505 5,963 6,468 Outdoor footwear, outer soles of: Ð leather 3,295 89,010 3,474 77,636 72,844 3,095 69,674 75,574 Ðrubber, plastic, synth. leather 38,296 641,778 47,318 724,241 679,541 48,385 736,893 799,288 Ð other 1,870 8,165 1,434 5,067 4,754 844 2,890 3,135 Footwear with uppers of textiles: Ð sports 5,586 81,974 9,686 124,256 116,587 9,289 140,753 152,671 slippers/indoor, outer soles of: Ð leather 32 179 90 448 420 132 412 447 Ðrubber or plastic 2,653 8,427 2,182 6,259 5,873 3,080 7,043 7,639 Ð other outer soles 6,208 12,757 8,851 15,969 14,983 9,384 15,931 17,280 Outdoor footwear, outer soles of: Ðrubber or plastic 14,222 57,475 15,682 64,838 60,836 15,147 62,861 68,184 Ð leather 333 3,334 297 2,322 2,179 234 1,531 1,661 Ð other 8,062 17,463 3,184 5,956 5,588 1,218 2,448 2,655 Footwear with other uppers 2,667 5,766 4,167 10,339 9,701 953 3,895 4,225 Parts of footwear 699 46,108 1,303 43,939 41,228 681 33,479 36,312
Total imports of footwear 115,086 1200,755 134,029 1337,086 1254,561 130,410 1360,176 1475,346 Of which Extra-EU 83,749 651,359 96,917 770,290 723,277 94,125 750,548 814,096 Developing countries 57,270 375,779 67,278 425,766 399,780 74,082 533,915 579,121
Source: Eurostat
68 APPENDIX 4 TRADE ASSOCIATIONS
EU DENMARK Footwear Industry CEC Footwear Industry DKSF European Confederation of the Footwear Industry Address: Dansk Industri, DK-1787 Copenhagen V, Address: Francois Bossaertstraat 53, B-1030, Brussels, Denmark Belgium Phone: + 45 3377 3377 Phone: + 32 2 736 5810 Fax: + 45 3377 3440 Fax: + 32 2 736 1276 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Website: http:// www.di.dk Website: http://www.cecshoe.be Wholesale Danish Association of Commercial Agents Retail CEDDEC European Confederation of the Shoe Retailers Associations Address: Borsen, DK-1217 Copenhagen K, Denmark Address: Wiedner Hauptstrasse 63, A-1045 Wien, Phone: + 45 33 950 500 Austria Fax: + 45 33 330 464 Phone: + 43 1 50105 3320 E-mail: [email protected] Fax: + 43 1 50206 294 Website: http://www.commercial-agents.dk E-mail: [email protected] Website: http://www.ceddec.at Retail Danmarks Skohandlerforening Address: H.C. Andersens Boulevard 48, DK-1553 AUSTRIA Copenhagen V Denmark Footwear Industry Fachverband der Lederverarbeitende Phone: + 45 3391 4607 IndustrieVerband der Schuhindustrie Fax: + 45 3391 4608 Address: Wiedner Hauptstrasse 63, A-1045 Wien, Austria FINLAND Phone: + 43 1 50105 3453 Footwear Industry AFSLI Fax: + 43 1 50105 278 Address: Eteläranta 10, 7th floor, FI-00130, Helsinki, E-mail: [email protected] Finland Phone: + 358 9 1728 4250 Retail Bundesgremium des Schuhhandels Fax: + 358 9 1795 88 Address: Wiedner Hauptstrasse 63, A-1045 Wien, E-mail: [email protected] Austria Phone: + 43 1 50105 3320 Retail Association of Fashion Retailers in Finland Fax: + 43 1 50206 294 Address: Mariankatu 26 B 14, SF-Helsinki, Finland E-mail: [email protected] Phone: + 358 9 6844 7300 Fax: + 358 9 6844 7344 BELGIUM Footwear Industry FDS FRANCE Federatie van de Belgische Schoenindustrie Footwear Industry FFC Address: Francois Bossaertstraat 53, B-1030, Brussels, Address: Rue de Miromesnil 51, 75008 Paris, France Belgium Phone: + 33 2 44 727272 Phone: + 32 2 735 2701 Fax: + 33 1 44 710404 Fax: + 32 2 736 1276 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Website: http://www.chausuredefrance.com Website: http://www.ping.be/febic/febic.htm Retail Fédération Nationale des Détaillants en Retail Fédération nationale de la Chaussure Chaussures de France Address: Rue Neuve, 19 B-4500 Huy, Belgium Address: Boulevard de Magenta 46, F-75010 Paris, Phone: + 32 85 211660 France Fax: + 32 85 236090 Phone: + 33 1 4206 7930 Fax: + 33 1 4206 5209 E-mail: [email protected] Website: http://www.chaussure.org
69 GERMANY Wholesale Vimagro Footwear Industry HDS Address: Beneluxlaan 909, Utrecht, The Netherlands Address: Waldstrasse 44, 63065 Offenbach a/ Main, Mail address: p.O. Box 3140, 3502 GC Utrecht, Germany the netherlands Phone: + 49 69 82 97410 Phone: + 31 (0) 30 284 4538 Fax: + 49 69 81 2810 Fax: + 31 (0) 30 284 4501 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Website: http://www.hds-schuh.de Retail Mitex-Schoenen Retail Bundesverband des Deutschen Address: P.O. Box 162, NL-3940 AD Doorn, Schuheinzelhandels e.V. The Netherlands Address: Salierring 44, D-50677 Köln, Germany Phone: + 31 (0) 343 473 250 Phone: + 49 221 2409 107 Fax: + 31 (0) 343 473 251 Fax: + 49 221 2408 670 E-mail: E-mail: [email protected] [email protected]
GREECE PORTUGAL Footwear Industry Elsevie Footwear Industry APICCAPS Address: Rue Penelope Delta 27, 15451 Neopsychico Address: Rue Alves Redol 372, Apt: 4643, 4011 001 Athens, Greece Porto, Portugal Phone: + 30 1 674 4557 Phone: + 351 22 507 4150 Fax: + 30 1 674 4497 Fax: + 351 22 507 4179 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Website : http://www.elsevie.gr Website: http://www.apiccaps.pt/apiccaps
IRELAND SPAIN Footwear Industry IRLSF Footwear Industry FICE Address: Coe’s Road-Industrial Estate-Dundalk co. Address: Nunez de Bilbao 116, pl.3a Oficinas 5y6, Louth, Ireland 28006 Madrid, Spain Phone: + 353 42 34 741123 Phone: + 34 91 562 7001 Fax: + 353 42 33 371 Fax: + 34 91 562 0094 E-mail: [email protected] ITALY Website: http://www.fice.es Footwear Industry ANCI Address: Via Monte Rosa 21, 20149 Milan, Italy SWEDEN Phone: + 39 2 43 8291 Footwear Industry Swedish Federation of Fax: + 39 2 48 005833 the Footwear Industry E-mail: [email protected] Address: Arbesko, P.O. Box 1642, S-70116 Örebro, Website : http://www.anci-calzature.com Sweden Phone: + 46 1917 3841 Retail Federcalzature Fax: + 46 1917 9588 Address: Piazza Belli 12, I-00186 Roma, Italy Fax: + 39 040 771 776 UK E-mail: [email protected] Footwear Industry BFA Address: 3 Burystead Place Wellingborough, THE NETHERLANDS Northants UK Footwear Industry FNS Phone: + 44 1933 229005 Address: Reitseplein 1, Tilburg, The Netherlands Fax: + 44 1933 225009 Mail address: P.O. Box 90154, 5000 LG Tilburg, E-mail: [email protected] The Netherlands Website: http://www.britfoot.com Phone: + 31 (0) 13 594 4263 Fax: + 31 (0) 13 594 4749 Retail Independent Footwear Retailers Association Address: 24 Fairlawn Grove, Chiswick, London W453H, UK Phone: + 44 208 9946 259 Fax: + 44 208 7422 396 E-mail: [email protected]
70 APPENDIX 5 TRADE FAIR ORGANISERS
GERMANY PAC GDS International Shoe Fair Trade fair for casual wear Location: Messegelände Düsseldorf Location: Espace Sofitel St. Jacques, Paris Segments: The entire range of footwear and leather Segments: Slippers, espadrilles, plastic and rubber accessories footwear Frequency: Twice a year (March and September) Frequency: Twice a year (June and November) In February and August, presentation of new Organisation: SEPIC Expositions trends in Salon Schuh Aktuell. 51, rue de Miromesnil, 75008 Paris, France Organisation: Messe Düsseldorf GmbH Phone: + 33 (0) 1 4471 7171 P.O. Box 101006, 4001 Düsseldorf, Germany Fax: + 33 (0) 1 4471 0404 Phone: + 49 (0) 211 456001 Website: www.chaussuredefrance.comr Fax: + 49 (0) 211 4560668 E-mail: [email protected] ITALY Website : www.gds-shoe-fair.com MICAM Micam/Modacalzatura Ð International Footwear exhibition Inter-Jeans Location: Fiera Milan International Casualwear and Young Fashion Segments: broad range of footwear In combination with Herren-Mode-Woche Frequency: Twice a year (March and September) Segments: Jeanswear, sportswear, club and streetwear, Organisation: FICI including footwear Via Monte Rosa 21, 20149 Milan, Italy Organization: Kölner Messe Phone: + 39 (0) 2 438291 Messeplatz 1, P.O. Box 210760, D 50532 Fax: + 39 (0) 2 48005833 Köln E-mail: segretaria @micamonline.com Phone: + 49 (0) 221 8210 Website : www.micamonline.com Fax: + 49 (0) 221 8212 574 Expo Riva Shoe ISPO Location: Palafiere Fair Centre Riva del Garde International trade fair for sports equipment and fashion Segments: high fashion footwear Location: Neue Messe München Frequency: Twice a year (January and June) Segments: Active sportswear, fashion sport and sporting Organisation: Pala Congressi srl goods, including footwear Parco Lido, 38066 Riva del Garde Frequency: Annual (July/August) Phone: + 39 (0) 464 520 000 Organization: Messe München GmbH Fax: + 39 (0) 464 555 255 Messegelände, D 81823 München E-mail: [email protected] Phone: + 49 (0) 89 94920551 Website : www.palacongressi.it Fax: + 49 (0) 89 94920559 Internet: http://www.messe-muenchen.de Fashion Shoe E-mail : [email protected] Location: Bologna Exhibition Centre Segments: mid market, mid-upper and top range footwear FRANCE Frequency: Twice a year (January and June) MIDEC Organisation: Bologna Fiere International Shoe Fashion Fair Phone: + 39 (0) 51 282 111 Location: Paris Expo Ð Porte de Versailles Fax: + 39 (0) 51 282 332 Segments: Footwear for men, women, junior and children E-mail: [email protected] Frequency: Twice a year (March and September) Website : www.bolognafiere.it Organisation: SEPIC Expositions 51, rue de Miromesnil, 75008 Paris, France Phone: + 33 (0) 1 4471 7171 Fax: + 33 (0) 1 4471 0404 E-mail: [email protected] Website : www.midec-paris.tm.fr
71 NETHERLANDS ISN International Shoe Fair Netherlands Location: Schoenencentrum Nieuwegein Frequency: Twice a year (March and September) Organisation: Schoenencentrum P.O. Box 6001, 3430 HA Nieuwegein, The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 30 603 7233 Fax: + 31 (0) 30 603 5607 E-mail: [email protected]
SPAIN Expocalzado International Footwear Fair Location: Recinto Ferial- Elche/Alicante Segments: Footwear and leather goods Frequency: Twice a year (March and September) Organisation: FICE (Federacion de Industrias del Calzado Espanol) Nunez de Balbao, 116, 28006 Madrid, Spain Phone: + 96 (0) 66 57 600 Fax: + 96 (0) 66 57 631 E-mail: [email protected]
Modacalzado Footwear and Leather Fashion Trade Fair Location: Recinto Ferial- Elche/Alicante Segments: Footwear and leather goods Frequency: Twice a year (April and September/October) Organisation: IFEMA Casilla 67967, 28080 Madrid, Spain Phone: + 91 (0) 72 25 000 Fax: + 91 (0) 72 25 801 E-mail: [email protected]
DENMARK SSF Scandinavian Shoe Fair Location: Scandinavian Shoe Centre, Bella Center Segments: Footwear and accessories Frequency: Four times a year Organisation: Scandinavian Shoe Centre ApS, Center Boulevard 5, 2300 Copenhagen, Denmark Phone: + 45 (0) 32 473 727 Fax: + 45 (0) 32 503787
72 APPENDIX 6 TRADE PRESS
International fashion magazines for design, styling and International magazines with information about production forecasting departments and trade in footwear Euroshoes Magazine Il Mondo della Calzatura (Shoe World) Publisher: ESPO Publisher: Giardano Emporio SrL Consorzio European Shoe Press Association Via Einandi 206 Civitanova Marche, Italy E.S.P.A. Phone: + 39 (0) 733 829 651 Via Leonardo da Vinci 43, 20090 Trezzano E-mail: [email protected] S/Naviglio (MI) Italy Frequency: 10 issues/year Phone: + 39 (0) 2 445 9091 Languages: Italian and English Fax: + 39 (0) 2 4840 2959 Content: (forecasting) fashion information E-mail: [email protected] Frequency: 2 issues/year ARS/Arpel Languages: English, French, German, Italian, Publisher: ARS Arpel Group srl Content: Information about production, trade and Via I. Nievo 33, 20145 Milan, Italy fashion in footwear in the EU. Phone: + 39 2 319121 Fax: + 39 2 33611.619 World Footwear E-mail: [email protected] Sales offices: Shoe Trades Publishing Frequency: 4 issues/year 36 Crosby road North Liverpool L22 0QN, Languages: English, French, Spanish, German, Italian United Kingdom Content: Magazine for the international leather goods Phone: + 44 (0) 151 928 9288 fashion. Information and fashion trends in Fax: + 44 (0) 151 928 4190 leather goods and accessories. E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.worldleather.co.uk Vogue Pelle Frequency: 12 issues/year Publisher: Edizione Conde Nast S.p.A. Language: English Piazza Castello 27, 20121 Milan, Italy Content: Global magazine, especially interesting for Phone: + 39 2 85611 manufacturers Fax: + 39 2 8055716 Frequency: 2 issues/year Schuhmarkt Trens & Mode Language: Italian Publisher: Broener Umschau Gruppe Content: Fashion information on leather goods, P.O. Box 110262, D-60037 Frankfurt am including footwear. Main, Germany Phone: + 49 (0) 69 2600-0 Sportswear International Fax: + 49 (0) 69 2600-609 Publisher: Deutscher Fachverlag GmbH E-mail: [email protected] Mainzer Landstrasse 251, D-60326 Frankfurt Frequency: 12 issues/year am Main,Germany Language: German Phone: + 49 (0) 69 7595 1987 Content: Official magazine for German retail Fax: + 49 (0) 69 7595 12200 association (Bundesverband des Deutschen Frequency: 6 times a year Schuheinzelhandels). Developments in Language: English production and trade, fashion information etc., Content: International fashion trends in jeanswear, mainly focused on the German market. leisurewear, accessories etc. Schoenvisie Publisher: VNU Business Publications Ceylonpoort 5-25, P.O. Box 4020, 2003 EA Haarlem, The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 23 546 3973 Fax: + 31 (0) 23 546 5535 Frequency: 11 issues/year Language: Dutch Content: Developments in production and trade, fashion information etc., mainly focused on the Netherlands market.
73 Tred Publisher: Blauw Media Uitgeverij BV P.O. Box 1043, 3600 BA Maarssen, The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 346 574 040 Fax: + 31 (0) 346 576 056 E-mail: [email protected] Frequency: 10 times a year Language: Dutch Content: Trade and fashion information for footwear retailers
De Voorlichter/L’Informateur Publisher: VDK Press bvba Marktplein 14, 8530 Harelbeke, Belgium Phone: + 32 (0) 56 723 515 Fax: + 32 (0) 56 723 537 E-mail: [email protected] Frequency: 10 issues/year Languages: Dutch and French Content: Developments in production and trade, fashion information etc., mainly focused on the Belgian market.
Chausser Magazine Publisher: Societe des Publications le Cuir S.a.r.l. 1, Rue Garnier, F-92200 Neuilly/Seine, France Phone: + 33 (0) 1 4738 1107 Fax: + 33 (0) 1 4624 9924 E-mail: [email protected] Website : ww.chaussermagazine.com Frequency: 10 issues/year Languages: French Content: Developments in production and trade, fashion information etc., mainly focused on the French market.
74 APPENDIX 7 BUSINESS SUPPORT ORGANISATIONS
Organisations, which are active in the field of the promotion ICE (Instituto Nazionale per il Commercio Estero) of imports from developing countries, like CBI in National Institute for Foreign Trade The Netherlands. Address: Via Liszt 21, P.O. Box 10057, 00144 Rome, Italy CBI, Centrum tot Bevordering van de Import uit Phone: + 39 (0) 6 59921 ontwikkelingslanden (Centre for the Promotion of Imports Fax: + 39 (0) 6 599 26900 from developing countries) E-mail: [email protected] Address: Beursplein 37 (5th floor), Rotterdam Post address: P.O. Box 30009, 3001 DA Rotterdam, Bundeskammer der gewerblichen Wirtschaft The Netherlands Austrian Federal Economic Chamber Phone: + 31 (0) 10 201 3434 Address: Wiener Hauptstrasse 63, P.O. Box 150, Fax: + 31 (0) 10 411 4081 1045 Vienna, Austria E-mail: [email protected] Phone: + 43 (0) 1 501 050 Internet: www.cbi.nl Fax: + 43 (0) 1 5020 6250 E-mail: [email protected] ITC (International Trade Center) Internet: www.wk.or.at Division of Product and Market Development Address: Palais des Nations; P.O. Box 10, 1211 Geneva NORAD (Norwegian Agency for Development Cooperation) 10, Switzerland Address: Tollbugaten 31, P.O. Box 8034 Dep., N-0030 Phone: + 41 (0) 22 7300 111 Oslo 1, Norway Fax: + 41 (0) 22 730 05 Phone: + 47 (0) 22 314 400 E-mail: [email protected] Fax: + 47 (0) 22 314 403 Internet: www.intracen.org E-mail: [email protected]
DIPO (Danish Import Promotion Office for Products from Sida (Swedish International Development Cooperation Developing Countries) Agency) Danish Chamber of Commerce Address: Sveavagen 20, P.O. Box 3144, S-105 25 Address: Boersen, DK-1217 Copenhagen K, Denmark Stockholm, Sweden Phone: + 45 (0) 33 950500 Phone: + 46 (0) 8 698 5000 Fax: + 45 (0) 33 325216 Fax: + 46 (0) 8 620 8864 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.sida.se PROTRADE/GTZ (Deutsche Gesellschaft fur Technische Zusammenarbeit GmbH) SIPPO (Swiss Import Promotion Programme) German organisation for technical cooperation Address: Stampfenbachstrasse 85, 8035 Zurich, Address: Dag-Hammerskjöld-Weg 1-5; P.O. Box 5180, Switzerland D-65726 Eschborn 1, Germany Phone: + 41 (0) 1 365 5151 Phone: + 49 (0) 6196 796 000 Fax: + 41 (0) 1 365 5221 Fax: + 49 (0) 6196 797 414 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.protrade.gtz.de
BfAI (Bundesstelle fur Aussenhandelsinformation) Federal Office of Foreign Trade Information, with offices both in Cologne and Berlin Address: Agrippastrasse 87-93; P.O. Box 100522, 50445 Cologne, Germany Phone: + 49 (0) 221 205 7000 Fax: + 49 (0) 221 205 7212 also: Address: Scharnhornstrasse 87-93, P.O. Box 650268, 13302 Berlin, Germany Phone: + 49 (0) 30 2014 5200 Fax: + 49 (0) 30 2014 5204
75 APPENDIX 8 OTHER USEFUL ADDRESSES
Quota, import duties, import licences More information about the market and other general The following organisations can supply useful information information can be obtained from the following addresses: on quota, import duties, import licences and other trade Netherlands Foreign Trade Agency regulations. Part of the Ministry of Economic Affairs Address: Bezuidenhoutseweg 181, 2594 AH The Hague Chamber of Commerce & Industries for Rotterdam and the Post address: P.O. Box 20105, 2500 EC The Hague, Lower-Meuse The Netherlands Address: Beursplein 37 (3rd Floor), 3011 AA Phone: + 31 (0) 70 379 8933 Rotterdam, The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 70 379 7878 Post address: P.O. Box 30025, 3001 DA Rotterdam, E-mail: [email protected] The Netherlands Internet: www.hollandtrade.com Phone: + 31 (0) 10 405 7777 Fax: + 31 (0) 10 414 5754 Indication of tenders, CE-marking, European rules for E-mail: [email protected] working and environmental circumstances: Internet: www.kvk.nl EU Trade Information Address: Pettelaarpark 10, 5216 PD ‘s-Hertogenbosch Chamber of Commerce & Industries for Amsterdam Post address: P.O. Box 70060, 5201 DZ ‘s-Hertogenbosch, Address: De Ruyterkade 5, 1013 AA Amsterdam The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 73 680 6600 Post address: P.O. Box 2852, 1000 CW Amsterdam, Fax: + 31 (0) 73 612 3210 The Netherlands E-mail: [email protected] Phone: + 31 (0) 20 531 4000 Internet: www.egadvies.nl Fax: + 31 (0) 20 531 4799 E-mail: [email protected] Labour circumstances: Internet: www.amsterdam.kvk.nl ILO (International Labour Organisation) Address: 4, Route des Morillons, CH-1211 Geneva 22, Import duties Switzerland Netherlands Customs Directorate Phone: + 41 (0) 22 79 9611 Address: Laan op Zuid 45, 3072 DB Rotterdam, Fax: + 41 (0) 22 798 8685 The Netherlands Internet: www.ilo.org Post address: P.O. Box 50964, 3007 BG Rotterdam, The Netherlands The following trade directories are free and available for Phone: + 31 (0) 10 290 4949 various European countries in different languages. Fax: + 31 (0) 10 290 4894 Kompass E-mail: [email protected] Address: Hoge Hilweg 15, 1101 CB Amsterdam, Internet: www.douane.nl The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 20 697 4041 Import duties, tariffs, taxes and regulations Fax: + 31 (0) 20 696 5603 Ministry of Finance, Department for Tariffs and Quota E-mail: [email protected] Address: Casuariestraat 32, 2511 VB The Hague, Internet: www.kompass.nl The Netherlands Post address: P.O. Box 20201, 2500 EE The Hague, ABC of trade and industry The Nether-lands Address: Kon. Wilhelminalaan 16, 2012 JK Haarlem, Phone: + 31 (0) 70 342 7540 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 70 342 7900 Phone: + 31 (0) 23 531 9031 E-mail: [email protected] Fax: + 31 (0) 23 532 7033 Internet: www.minfin.nl E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.abc-d.nl Import licences, certificates, procedures: Central Services for Import & Export Address: De Engelse Kamp 2, 9722 AX Groningen, The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 50 523 9111 Fax: + 31 (0) 50 5260698 Internet: www.belastingdienst.nl
76 Europages Contact points for the SG (Schadstoffgeprüft Zeichen) Address: 47, rue Louis Blanc, 92984 Paris la Défense hallmark: Cedex, France TÜV Rheinland Sicherheit und Umweltschutz GmbH Phone: + 33 (0) 1 4116 4900 Address: Am Grauen Stein, D-51105 Cologne, Fax: + 33 (0) 1 4116 4950 Germany E-mail: [email protected] Phone: + 49 (0) 221 8062958 Internet: www.europages.com Fax: + 49 (0) 221 8062882 Internet: www.tuev-rheinland.de Important addresses for environmental issues Information concerning environmental aspects is provided by Institut Fresenius Gruppe trade promotion organisations like CBI, DIPO, NORAD and Address: Im Maisel 14, D-65232 Taunusstein-Neuhof, SIDA (for addresses see Appendix 7). Germany Phone: + 49 (0) 6128 744155 General information: Fax: + 49 (0) 6128 744201 AccessGuide Internet: www.institut-fresenius.de CBI’s database on European non-tariff trade barriers Address: P.O. Box 30009, 3001 DA Rotterdam, Prüf- und Forschungsinstitut Pirmasens The Netherlands Address: Hans-Sachs-Stra§e 2, D-66955 Pirmasens, Phone: + 31 (0) 10 2013434 Germany Fax: + 31 (0) 10 4114081 Phone: + 49 (0) 6331 74016 E-mail: [email protected] Fax: + 49 (0) 6331 74507 Internet: www.cbi.nl/accessguide
Contact point EU ECO-label: Commission of the European Communities, DG XI-A-2 Address: Rue de la Loi 200, B-1049 Brussels, Belgium Phone: + 32 (0) 2 2969515 Fax: + 32 (0) 2 2969560 E-mail: dgxiweb@dg11,cec.be Internet: www.europa.eu.int/comm/dg11
The Netherlands competent body for the Milieukeur environmental label: Stichting Milieukeur (Environmental Review Organisation) Address: Eisenhowerlaan 150, 2517 KP The Hague, The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 70 3586300 Fax: + 31 (0) 70 3502517 E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.milieukeur.nl
Contact points for the Öko-Tex hallmark: Zertifizierungsstelle Address: Frankfurter Stra§e 10-14, D-65760 Eschborn, Germany Phone: + 49 (0) 6196 966230 Fax: + 49 (0) 6196 966226
Forschungsinstitut Hohenstein Address: Schlo§ Hohenstein, D-74357 Bonningheim, Germany Phone: + 49 (0) 7143 2710 Fax: + 49 (0) 7143 2751 E-mail: [email protected] Internet: www.hohenstein.de
77 APPENDIX 9 LIST OF DEVELOPING COUNTRIES
Please note that the OECD list of developing countries, as applied in this market survey, may include countries that are usually not considered as developing countries (e.g. South Korea).
Afghanistan Guatemala Pakistan Albania Guinea Palau Islands Algeria Guinea-Bissau Palestinian Admin. Areas Angola Guyana Panama Anguilla Haiti Papua New Guinea Antigua and Barbuda Honduras Paraguay Argentina India Peru Armenia Indonesia Philippines Aruba Iran Rwanda Azerbaijan Iraq São Tomé & Principe Bahrain Jamaica Saudi Arabia Bangladesh Jordan Senegal Barbados Kazakstan Seychelles Belize Kenya Sierra Leone Benin Kiribati Slovenia Bhutan Korea, Rep. of Solomon Islands Bolivia Korea, South Somalia Bosnia & Herzegovina Kyrghyz Rep. South Africa Botswana Laos Sri Lanka Brazil Lebanon St. Helena Burkina Faso Lesotho St. Kitts-Nevis Burundi Liberia St. Lucia Cambodia Libya St. Vincent and Grenadines Cameroon Macao Sudan Cape Verde Macedonia Surinam Central African rep. Madagascar Swaziland Chad Malawi Syria Chile Malaysia Tajikistan China Maldives Tanzania Colombia Mali Thailand Comoros Malta Timor Congo Marshall Islands Togo Cook Islands Mauritania Tokelau Costa Rica Mauritius Tonga Côte d'Ivoire Mayotte Trinidad & Tobago Croatia Mexico Tunisia Cuba Micronesia, Fed. StatesTurkey Djibouti Moldova Turkmenistan Dominica Mongolia Turks & Caicos Islands Dominican republic Montserrat Tuvalu Ecuador Morocco Uganda Egypt Mozambique Uruguay El Salvador Myanmar Uzbekistan Equatorial Guinea Namibia Vanuatu Eritrea Nauru Venezuela Ethiopia Nepal Vietnam Fiji Netherlands Antilles Virgin Islands (UK) French Polynesia New Caledonia Wallis & Futuna Gabon Nicaragua Western Samoa Gambia Niger Yemen Georgia Nigeria Yugoslavia, Fed. Rep. Ghana Niue Zaire Gibraltar Northern Marianas Zambia Grenada Oman Zimbabwe
78 APPENDIX 10 LIST OF MAJOR BUYERS OF FOOTWEAR IN THE NETHERLANDS
1Importers/wholesalers EB Shoes BV 2 Retail/multiples Address: Buizerdlaan 2, 3435 SB Nieuwegein, 3 Central buying organisations The Netherlands 4Department stores Mail address: P.O. Box 6333, 3430 HV Nieuwegein, 5 Mail-order companies The Netherlands 6 Sports multiples Phone: + 31 (0) 30 6037 037 7 Manufacturers/importers Fax: + 31 (0) 30 6036 940 E-mail: [email protected] 1 IMPORTERS/WHOLESALERS Articles: shoes for men and women Amani BV Address: Bijleveldsingel 12, 6512 AS Nijmegen, Eegim Shoes BV The Netherlands Address: Tuinstraat 1, 5144 NE Waalwijk, Phone: + 31 (0) 24 3603 603 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 24 3888 288 Mail address: P.O. Box 663, 5140 AR Waalwijk, Articles: shoes for women The Netherlands Website: www.amani.nl Phone: + 31 (0) 416 650 200 Fax: + 31 (0) 416 335 933 Aspo Waalwijk BV Articles: sport shoes, shoes for women Address: Tuinstraat 22, 5144 NT Waalwijk, The Netherlands Elko BV, Handelsonderneming Mail address: P.O. Box 377, 5140 AJ Waalwijk, Address: Kon. Wilhelminaplein 12-14, 1062 HK The Netherlands Amsterdam, The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 416 336497 Phone: + 31 (0) 20 6178 960 Fax: + 31 (0) 416 339527 Fax: + 31 (0) 20 6156 805 Articles: shoes for men and children Articles: shoes for men, women and children
Babouche Schoenen BV Europorta Nederland BV Address: Nobelstraat 19, 6902 PH Zevenaar, Address: Elzenweg 27, 5144 MB Waalwijk, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 181, 6900 AD Zevenaar, Phone: + 31 (0) 416 330 125 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 416 331 805 Phone: + 31 (0) 316 332594 Articles: shoes for men, women and children Fax: + 31 (0) 316 528997 Articles: shoes for women The Footwear Studio Other companies under the same address: Bladelli: shoes for Address: Drenthehaven 3, 3433 PB Nieuwegein, women Bannoxs: shoes for men The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 1349, 3430 BH Nieuwegein, J.A. de Bruijn BV The Netherlands Address: Zuidpool 3, 2801 RW Gouda, Phone: + 31 (0) 30 6060 079 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 30 6060 803 Mail address: P.O. Box 107, 2740 AC Waddinxveen, Articles: shoes for men, women and children The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 182 616 060 Van Gastel Kinderschoenen BV Fax: + 31 (0) 182 619 682 Address: Engelsestraat 4, 5171 DW Kaatsheuvel, Articles: shoes for men The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 54, 5170 AB Kaatsheuvel, Comforta Nieuwkoop BV The Netherlands Address: Nijverheidsweg 5, 2412 LR Nieuwkoop, Phone: + 31 (0) 416 273 851 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 416 279 225 Mail address: P.O. Box 12, 2420 AA Nieuwkoop, Articles: shoes for children The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 172 579 202 Fax: + 31 (0) 172 572 519 Articles: shoes for men, women and children
79 Genemans BV Theo Henkelman Schoenen BV Address: Buizerdlaan 6 (S 116), 3435 SB Nieuwegein, Address: Doemesweg 10, 6004 RN Weert, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 6116, 3430 HG Nieuwegein, Mail address: P.O. Box 10123 6000 GC Weert, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 30 6033 966 Phone: + 31 (0) 495 543 959 Fax: + 31 (0) 30 6044 186 Fax: + 31 (0) 495 541 181 Articles: shoes for women. Mainly operating as agency. Articles: shoes for men, women and children
Gevavi Schoeisel BV Hetharia Handelsondememing Address: Punterweg 1, 8042 PB Zwolle, Address: Buizerdlaan 6 (S 123), 3435 SB Nieuwegein, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 296, 8000 AG Zwolle, Mail address: P.O. Box 6123, 3430 HH Nieuwegein, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 38 4213 364 Phone: + 31 (0) 30 6031 810 Fax: + 31 (0) 38 4215 513 Fax: + 31 (0) 30 6040 418 Articles: safety shoes; shoes for men and children Articles: shoes for men, women and children
Globo BV Joh. van Iersel & Zn BV Address: Hoofdstraat 99, 5171 DK Kaatsheuvel, Address: Hoofdstraat 38, 7625 PE Zenderen, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 160, 5170 AD Kaatsheuvel, Mail address: P.O. Box 164,7620 AD Borne, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 416 272 572 Phone: + 31 (0) 74 2657 070 Fax: + 31 (0) 416 278 172 Fax: + 31 (0) 74 2657 075 Articles: shoes for women Articles: shoes for men, women and children
Heerkens Shoes BV Jochie BV Address: Prof. Eijkmanweg 21-23, 5144 ND Waalwijk, Address: Schijve 1, 5162 CW Gilze, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 16, 5120 AA Rijen, The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 142, 5140 AC Waalwijk Phone: + 31 (0) 161 222 666 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 161 222 599 Phone: + 31 (0) 416 342 167 Articles: shoes for children Fax: + 31 (0) 416 560 776 Articles: shoes for men, women and children Intermedium Footwear BV Address: Debbemeerstraat 12-14, 2131 HE Hoofddorp, Helioform BV The Netherlands Address: Grotestraat 250, 5151 BS Drunen, Mail address: P.O. Box 367, 2130 AJ Hoofddorp, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 52, 5150 AB Drunen, Phone: + 31 (0) 23 5675 400 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 23 5636 234 Phone: + 31 (0) 416 321 333 Articles: shoes for men, women and children Fax: + 31 (0) 416 373 837 Articles: shoes for men and women De Kinderschoenen BV Address: Marconiweg 14, 8071 RA Nunspeet, Hengst Footwear BV The Netherlands Address: Broekslagen 8, 8331 TJ Steenwijk, Phone: + 31 (0) 341 254 015 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 341 260 017 Mail address: P.O. Box 174, 8330 AD Steenwijk, Articles: shoes for children The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 521 514 455 Fax: + 31 (0) 521 517 127 Articles: shoes for men, women and children
80 Jack de Lange International BV Shoe Ab BV Address: Aalsvoorst 51 C, 7421 MA Lochem, Address: Zuidwenk 78 L, 3751 CG Spakenburg, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 180, 7240 AD Lochem, Phone: + 31 (0) 33 298 7444 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 33 298 7222 Phone: + 31 (0) 573 432424 Articles: shoes for men, women and children. Fax: + 31 (0) 573 432430 E-mail: [email protected] Articles: shoes for men, women and children. Website: www.shoe-ab.nl and/or www.celtics.nl E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.jackdelange.nl Sieben BV Mainly operating as agency, brands like Audley, Chatham, Address: Schijfweg-Zuid 2, 5995 BG Kessel (L) ), K-shoes etc.) The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 7803, 5995 ZG Kessel (L), Leijten Schoenen BV The Netherlands Address: Marconiweg 8, 4131 PD Vianen, Phone: + 31 (0) 77 4621 541 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 77 4622 565 Mail address: P.O. Box 7, 4130 EA Vianen, The Netherlands Articles: shoes for men, women and children Phone: + 31 (0) 347 366700 Fax: + 31 (0) 347 366700 Hein Sitters Agencies Articles: shoes for men, women and children. Address: Buizerdlaan 6 (S 18), 3435 SB Nieuwegein, The Netherlands Leomil BV Mail address: P.O. Box 133, 3417 ZJ Montfoort, Address: Kon. Wilhelminaplein 29 (3.01.18), The Netherlands 1062 HJ Amsterdam, The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 30 6033 301 Mail address: P.O. Box 69033,1060 CA Amsterdam, Fax: + 31 (0) 348 471 263 The Netherlands Articles: shoes for men, women and children Phone: + 31 (0) 20 4874 610 Fax: + 31 (0) 20 4874 620 De Wolff en Spaans BV E-mail: [email protected] Address: Kitmanstraat 9, 1812 PL Alkmaar, Articles: sport and leisure shoes The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 1022, 1800 KA Alkmaar, Memo BV The Netherlands Address: Nijverheidslaan 9, 1382 LE Weesp, Phone: + 31 (0) 72 5402 901 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 72 5402 957 Mail address: P.O. Box 343, 1380 AH Weesp, Articles: industrial shoes; shoes for men and women The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 294 418 262 2 RETAIL MULTIPLES (18 or more stores) Fax: + 31 (0) 294 480 018 Brantano Articles: shoes for men, women and children Adress: Tijvoortsebaan 5, 5051 HJ Goirle, The Netherlands Mexx Shoes BV Phone: + 31 (0) 13 530 8000 Address: Biesbosweg 16, 5145 PZ Waalwijk, Fax: + 31 (0) 13 530 8001 The Netherlands Website: www.brantano.com Phone: + 31 (0) 416 567 666 E-mail: [email protected] Fax: + 31 (0) 416 567 676 Articles: shoes for men, women and children Bristol BV Website: www.mexx.com Address: Weerenweg 15-17, 1161 AE Zwanenburg, The Netherlands Frans Muller & Zn BV Mail address: P.O. Box 173,1160 AD Zwanenburg, Address: Rouaanstraat 29, 9723 CC Groningen, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 20 407 6666 Mail address: P.O. Box 5194, 9700 GD Groningen, Fax: + 31 (0) 20 407 6635 The Netherlands Website: www.bristolonline.nl Phone: + 31 (0) 50 3139 900 E-mail: [email protected] Fax: + 31 (0) 50 3127 642 E-mail: [email protected] Articles: clogs and rubber boots
81 Cinderella Schoenen BV Invito Address: Stekkenbergweg 8, 1105 AJ Amsterdam ZO, Address: Larenweg 70, 5234 KC Den Bosch, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 82, 1390 AB Abcoude, Mail address: P.O. Box 3065, 5203 DB Den Bosch, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 20 452 4242 Phone: + 31 (0) 73 648 3483 Fax: + 31 (0) 20 697 8956 Fax: + 31 (0) 73 648 3532 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.cinderella.nl Website: www.invito.nl
Van Dalen BV Manfield Address: Rhone 34, 2266 DA Leidschendam, Address: Larenweg 70, 5234 KC Den Bosch, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 309,2260 AH Leidschendam, Mail address: P.O. Box 3065, 5203 DB Den Bosch, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 70 419 1999 Phone: + 31 (0) 73 648 3483 Fax: + 31 (0) 70 327 0701 Fax: + 31 (0) 73 644 0611 E-mail: [email protected] Dolcis Website: www.manfield.com Address: Larenweg 70, 5234 KC Den Bosch, The Netherlands Massa Schoen en Mode Mail address: P.O. Box 3065, 5203 DB Den Bosch, Address: Schijfweg 4, 5995 BG KesseL Lb, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 73 648 3483 Mail address: P.O. Box 7821, 5995 ZG Kessel Lb, Fax: + 31 (0) 73 644 0611 The Netherlands E-mail: [email protected] Phone: + 31 (0) 77 462 1477 Website: www.dolcis.nl Fax: + 31 (0) 77 462 2245 E-mail: [email protected] Durlinger BV Address: Leyenbroekerweg 31, 6132 CA Sittard, Nelson The Netherlands Address: Wijkermeerstraat 36, 2131 HA Hoofddorp, Mail address: P.O. Box 42, 6130 AA Sittard, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 23 562 9899 Phone: + 31 (0) 46 451 5757 Fax: + 31 (0) 23 562 7227 Fax: + 31 (0) 46 452 8201 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.nelsonschoenen.nl Ecco Shop Address: Wijkermeerstraat 36, 2131 HA Hoofddorp, Nimco House of Shoes The Netherlands Address: Oude Kleefsebaan 119, 6572 AK Berg en Dal, Phone: + 31 (0) 23 562 9899 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 23 562 7227 Mail address: P.O. Box 1361, 6501 BJ Nijmegen, E-mail: [email protected] The Netherlands Website: www.nelsonschoenen.nl Phone: + 31 (0) 24 684 3100 Fax: + 31 (0) 24 684 2255 Van Haren Schoenen BV E-mail: [email protected] Address: Hoogeinde 35, 5142 GB Waalwijk, Website: www.nimco.nl The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 2, 5140 AA Waalwijk, Podo Linéa The Netherlands Address: Buizerdlaan 2, 3435 SB Nieuwegein, Phone: + 31 (0) 416 562 200 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 416 562 299 Mail address: P.O. Box 1290, 3430 BG Nieuwegein, The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 30 6005 860 Fax: + 31 (0) 30 6005 861 E-mail: [email protected]
82 Promenade Ziengs Schoenen Address: Buizerdlaan 2, 3435 SB Nieuwegein, Address: Nijverheidsweg 1, 9403 VN Assen, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 1290, 3430 BG Nieuwegein, Mail address: P.O. Box 969, 9400 AZ Assen, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 30 6005 860 Phone: + 31 (0) 592 379 379 Fax: + 31 (0) 30 6005 861 Fax: + 31 (0) 592 379 370 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.ziengs.nl Sacha Shoes Address: S. van Zwanenbergweg 10, 5026 RN Tilburg, 3 CENTRAL BUYING ORGANISATIONS The Netherlands Ariston Nord-West Ring Benelux Phone: + 31 (0) 13 595 2121 Address: Arnhemsestraatweg 33, 6881 ND Velp, Fax: + 31 (0) 13 463 9091 The Netherlands E-mail: [email protected] Mail address: P.O. Box 113, 6880 AC Velp, The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 26 362 9192 Scapino Schoenen, Kleding, Sport Fax: + 31 (0) 26 362 9191 Address: Industrieweg 28, 9403 AB Assen, Formula: Quick Shoes The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 250, 9400 AG Assen, Sport 2000 The Netherlands Address: Archimedesstraat 17, 4816 BA Breda, Phone: + 31 (0) 592 340 042 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 592 344 904 Mail address: P.O. Box 3254, 4800 ME Breda, Website: http://www.scapino.nl The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 76 578 5516 Schoenenreus Schoenen, Kleding, Sport Fax: + 31 (0) 76 578 5578 Address: Belgenlaan 1, 5406 XN Uden, E-mail: [email protected] The Netherlands Website: www.sport2000.nl Mail address: P.O. Box 72, 5400 AB Uden, The Netherlands Formula: Sport 2000 and Sportpoint Phone: + 31 (0) 413 336 699 Fax: + 31 (0) 413 336 600 Euro Holland BA Address: Gezellenstraat 13, 3861 RD Nijkerk, Tango Shoes The Netherlands Address: Cartografenweg 24, 5141 MT Waalwijk, Mail address: P.O. Box 1065, 3860 BB Nijkerk, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 267, 5170 AG Kaatsheuvel, Phone: + 31 (0) 33 2454 805 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 33 2460 684 Phone: + 31 (0) 416 651 660 E-mail: [email protected] Fax: + 31 (0) 416 651 569 Website: www.euroholland.nl E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.tangoshoes.com Garant Schuh Address: Buizerdlaan 2, 3435 SB Nieuwegein, Van Woensel The Netherlands Address: Weerenweg 15-17, 1161 AE Zwanenburg, Mail address: P.O. Box 1290, 3430 BG Nieuwegein, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 173,1160 AD Zwanenburg, Phone: + 31 (0) 30 6005 860 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 30 6005 861 Phone: + 31 (0) 20 407 6666 E-mail: [email protected] Fax: + 31 (0) 20 407 6635 Formula: Podo Linea, Promenade, Fair Play E-mail: [email protected] International, Sports Shoe Traffic
83 Intres 5 MAIL-ORDER HOUSES Address: Konininneweg 1, 3871 JZ Hoevelaken, Wehkamp The Netherlands Address: Meeuwenlaan 2, 8011 BZ Zwolle, Mail address: P.O. Box 150, 3870 CD Hoevelaken, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 400, 8000 AK Zwolle, Phone: + 31 (0) 33 253 2399 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 33 253 2400 Phone: + 31 (0) 38 4973311 Formula: Gos Sport, Intersport Fax: + 31 (0) 38 4973495 E-mail: [email protected] 4 DEPARTMENT STORES Website: www.wehkamp.nl De Bijenkorf Address: Frankemaheerd 6, Amsterdam-ZO, 6 SPORTS MULTIPLES The Netherlands Aktie Sport Mail address: P.O. Box 12870, 1100 AW Amsterdam, Address: Edisonweg 4, 4131 PC Vianen ZH, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 20 3129700 Phone: + 31 (0) 347 327 000 Fax: + 31 (0) 20 6973926 Fax: + 31 (0) 347 329 001 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.actiesport.nl Website: www.bijenkorf.nl Coach, Sportshoes & Sportswear Hema Address: Jules Verneweg 36, 7821 AE Emmen, Address: Frankemaheerd 2, Amsterdam-ZO, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 591 673 205 Mail address: P.O. Box 23220, 1100 DS Amsterdam, Fax: + 31 (0) 591 673 031 The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 20 3114411 Fairplay International Sports Fax: + 31 (0) 20 3114000 Address: Plesmanstraat 1, 3833 LA Leusden, E-mail: [email protected] The Netherlands Website: www.hema.nl Mail address: P.O. Box 1290, 3430 BG Nieuwegein, The Netherlands Makro Phone: + 31 (0) 33 4320 118 Address: Dalsteindreef 101-139, Diemen, Fax: + 31 (0) 33 4320 631 The Netherlands E-mail: [email protected] Mail address: P.O. Box 22579, 1100 DB Amsterdam ZO, The Netherlands Favoriet Sport Phone: + 31 (0) 20 3980200 Address: Kolenbranderstraat 10, 2984 AT Ridderkerk, Fax: + 31 (0) 20 3980201 The Netherlands E-mail: info.makro.nl Mail address: P.O. Box 4169, 2980 GD Ridderkerk, Website: www.makro.nl The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 180 442 020 Vroom & Dreesmann Fax: + 31 (0) 180 442 029 Address: Spaklerweg 52, 1096 BA Amsterdam, The Netherlands GOS Sport Mail address: P.O. Box 276, 1000 AG Amsterdam, Address: Konininneweg 1, 3871 JZ Hoevelaken, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 20 5959111 Mail address: P.O. Box 150, 3870 CD Hoevelaken, Fax: + 31 (0) 20 6926150 The Netherlands E-mail: info@ vroomendreesman.nl Phone: + 31 (0) 33 253 2399 Website: www.vroomendreesman.nl Fax: + 31 (0) 33 253 2400
84 Helderman Sport Sport Point Address: Nijverheidsweg 23-27, 1851 NW Heiloo, Address: Archimedesstraat 17, 4816 BA Breda, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 125, 1850 AC Heiloo, Mail address: P.O. Box 3254, 4800 ME Breda, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 72 533 9233 Phone: + 31 (0) 76 578 5516 Fax: + 31 (0) 72 534 0740 Fax: + 31 (0) 76 578 5578 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.heldermansport.nl Website: www.euretco.com
Intersport 7 MANUFACTURERS/IMPORTERS Address: Konininneweg 1, 3871 JZ Hoevelaken, Avang Schoenfabriek BV The Netherlands Address: Schoolstraat 6, 5066 EE Moergestel, Mail address: P.O. Box 150, 3870 CD Hoevelaken, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 13 513 1232 Phone: + 31 (0) 33 253 2399 Fax: + 31 (0) 13 513 3835 Fax: + 31 (0) 33 253 2400 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.avang.nl Website: www.intersport.nl Wed. J.P. van Bommel Schoenfabriek BV Perry Sport Address: Oisterwijkseweg 40, 5066 XD Moergestel, Address: Oosteinderweg 247b, 1432 AT Aalsmeer, The Netherlands The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 13 513 6900 Mail address: P.O. Box 510, 1430 AM Aalsmeer, Fax: + 31 (0) 13 513 6999 The Netherlands E-mail: [email protected] Phone: + 31 (0) 297 330 600 Website: www.vanbommel.nl Fax: + 31 (0) 297 330 660 Website: www.perrysport.nl Durabel BV Address: Bevrijdingsweg 16, 5171 PS Kaatsheuvel, Olympus Sports The Netherlands Address: Larenweg 70, 5234 KC Den Bosch, Mail address: P.O. Box 42, 5170 AA Kaatsheuvel, The Netherlands The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 3065, 5203 DB Den Bosch, Phone: + 31 (0) 416 272 223 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 416 280 349 Phone: + 31 (0) 73 648 3483 Fax: + 31 (0) 73 642 5515 Durea Schoenfabriek BV E-mail: [email protected] Address: Thomas Edisonweg 1, 5151 DH Drunen, Website: www.olympus-sport.nl The Netherlands At the same address: Olympus Shoes and Pro Sport Mail address: P.O. Box 7, 5150 AA Drunen, The Netherlands Sport 2000 Phone: + 31 (0) 416 387 387 Address: Archimedesstraat 17, 4816 BA Breda, Fax: + 31 (0) 416 The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 3254, 4800 ME Breda, Gerba Windsor Holding BV The Netherlands Address: Hoge Ham 123, 5104 JD Dongen, Phone: + 31 (0) 76 578 5516 The Netherlands Fax: + 31 (0) 76 578 5578 Mail address: P.O. Box 6, 5100 AA Dongen, E-mail: [email protected] The Netherlands Website: www.sport2000.nl Phone: + 31 (0) 162 313 000 Fax: + 31 (0) 162 321 706 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.gerba.nl
85 Greve Schoenfabriek BV Address: Hoogeinde 64 a, 5142 GD Waalwijk, The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 416 332 880 Fax: + 31 (0) 416 337 676
Van Lier Schoenfabriek BV Address: Bergstraat 4, 5175 AA Loon op Zand, The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 2, 5175 ZG Loon op Zand, The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 416 361 241 Fax: + 31 (0) 416
Loint’s of Holland BV Address: T. v/d Sijdestraat 18, 5161 CD Sprang-Capelle, The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 232, 5170 AE Kaatsheuvel, The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 416 272 399 Fax: + 31 (0) 416 541 819 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.loints.com
Sigma Sportschoenenfabriek Address: Veertels 11, 5133 NC Riel, The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 13 518 2267 Fax: + 31 (0) 13 518 1771 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.sigmaschoenen.nl
Smits Schoenfabriek BV Address: Kerkstraat 53, 5101 BB Dongen, The Netherlands Mail address: P.O. Box 8, 5100 AA Dongen, The Netherlands Phone: + 31 (0) 162 313 755 Fax: + 31 (0) 162 318 973
86 APPENDIX 11 LIST OF MAJOR BUYERS OF FOOTWEAR IN THE EU
GERMANY Karstadt/Hertie Karstadt Quelle Gruppe Garant Schuh + Mode AG Buying office: Karstadt AG Address: Elisabethstrasse 70, D-40217 Düsseldorf, Address: Theodor-Althoffstrasse 2, 45133 Essen, Germany Germany Phone: + 49 211 3386-01 Phone: + 49 (0) 201 7271 Fax: + 49 211 3386-297 Fax: + 49 (0) 201 7275 216 Website: http://www.garantschuh.com Website: http://www.karstadt.de E-mail: [email protected] Katag Ariston/Nord-West-Ring e.G. Buying office: Katag AG Textileinkaufsverband Address: Nord-West-Ring-Strasse 11, D-63533 Address: Stralsunderstrasse 5, 33605 Bielefeld, Mainhausen, Germany Germany Phone: + 49 6182 928-0 Phone: + 49 (0) 521 2920 Fax: + 49 6182 928-200 Fax: + 49 (0) 521 292101 Website: http://www.anwr.de Website: http://www.katag.net
Rexor Kaufhof / Horten Address: Friedrichstrasse 103, 40217 Düsseldorf, Metro Gruppe Germany Buying office: Kaufhof Warenhaus AG Phone: + 49 (0) 2 11 3386 06 Address: Leonhard Tietz strasse 1, 50676 Köln, Fax: + 49 (0) 2 11 3386 665 Germany Website: http://www.rexor.de Phone: + 49 (0) 221 2230 E-mail : [email protected] Fax: + 49 (0) 221 2231902 Website: http://www.kaufhof.de Heinrich Deichmann-Schuhe GmbH Address: Boehnertweg 9, 45359 Essen, Germany C&A Phone: + 49 201 867600 Address: Hans-Günther-Sohl Strasse 8, 40235 Fax: + 49 201 8676120 Düsseldorf, Germany Website: http://www.deichmann.com Phone: + 49 (0) 211 6930 E-mail: [email protected] Fax: + 49 (0) 211 6931 060 Daughter companies in retail: Roland Schuhe (address etc. see Website: http://www.c-und-a.de Deichmann), Van Haren (address etc. see Major buyers in The Netherlands), Dosenbach & Ochsner (Switzerland) and FRANCE Rack Room Shoes (USA). Eram Salamander Address: Route Chaudron, 49110 St Pierre Montlimart, Address: Stammheimer Strasse 10, 70806 France Kornwestheim, Germany Phone: + 33 241 753200 Phone: + 49 (0) 715 415-0 Fax: + 33 241 753238 Fax: + 49 (0) 715 415-2000 Website: http://www.eram.fr Website: http://www.salamander.de Groupe André Quelle Address: 28, Avenue de Flandre, 75949 Paris, France Karstadt Quelle Gruppe Phone: + 33 (0) 1 44 723001 Buying office: Quelle Schickedanz Holding Fax: + 33 (0) 1 40 050937 Address: Nürnberger Strasse 91-95, 90762 Fürth, Daughter companies among other: Halle Chaussures and Germany André Phone: + 49 (0) 911 140 Fax: + 49 (0) 911 142 4361 Halle Chaussure Website: http://www.quelle.com Address: 2, Rue Gaspard Monge, France Phone: + 33 (0) 3 44 200923 Website: http://www.lahalle.com
87 Carrefour Tesco Buying office: Carrefour France Buying office: Tesco Stores Ltd Address: ZI Saint-Guénault, Evry Courcouronnes, Address: 44 Cirrus Building C- Schire Park- Welwyn France Garden City- Herts AL7 1ZR, Mail address: P.O. Box 75, 91002 Evry Courcouronnes, United Kingdom Cedex- France Phone: + 44 (0) 1992 632222 Phone: + 33 (0) 1 60 91 37 37 Fax: + 44 (0) 1707 297574 (achats UK); + 44 (0) Fax: + 33 (0) 1 60 78 02 91 1707 297645 (achats hors UK) Website: http://www.carrefour.com Website: http://www.tesco.co.uk
La Redoute Italy PPR Group Coin Buying office: Redcats Address: Via Terraglio 17, 30174 Mestre (Venezia), Address: 57 Rue de Blanchemaille, 59082 Roubaix, Italy France Phone: + 39 (0) 41 549 8000 Phone: + 33 (0) 3 2069 6000 Fax: + 33 (0) 41 549 8517 Fax: + 33 (0) 3 2030 5939 Website: http://www.coin.it or Daughters: Empires Stores (UK), Ellos (Spain) and http://www.gruppocoin.it for the holding Brylane (USA) company Gruppo Coin
Monoprix/ Prisunic Rinascente Galeries Lafayette Group Address: Strada 8, Palazzo N, 20089 Rozzanp Milan, Address: Tour Vendôme, 204 Rond Point du Pont Italy Sèvres, 92516 Boulogne Billancourt, France Phone: + 39 (0) 2 57581 Phone: + 33 (0) 1 5520 7700 Fax: + 39 (0) 2 9065 9055 Fax: + 33 (0) 1 5520 8207 Website: http://www.rinascente.it Website: http://www.monoprix.fr
Decathlon Address: 4, Boulevard de Mons, P.O. Box 299, 59650 Villeneuve d’Asq, France Phone: + 33 (0) 3 2033 5000 Fax: + 33 (0) 3 2033 5001 Website: http://www.decathlon.com
UNITED KINGDOM A list of all British footwear suppliers including addresses, phone and fax numbers, E-mail address and website can be obtained from the website http://www.britfoot.com/asp/suppliers.asp
Marks & Spencer Address: Michael House, 46-47 Baker Street London W1A1 1DN, United Kingdom Phone: + 44 (0) 20 7935 4422 Fax: + 44 (0) 20 7487 2679 Website: http://www.marksandspencer.co.uk
Next Address: Desford Road Enderby, Leicester LE9 5AT, United Kingdom Phone: + 44 (0) 116 286 6411 Fax: + 44 (0) 116 284 8998 Website: http://www.next.co.uk
88 APPENDIX 12 USEFUL INTERNET SITES http://www.shoeinfonet.com The EU market survey “Footwear” includes a detailed list of Shoe Info Net is a worldwide information centre, supplying addresses of major buyers in The Netherlands and a short list news and information about all aspects of shoe production, of buyers in other EU countries including (if available) leather, production techniques, trade fairs and other events, websites and E-mail addresses. More information and more footwear fashion trends. addresses can be found on several websites, for instance, This rather complete and very interesting site for all partners the following trade directories are available without charge for in the footwear business also gives links to home pages of various European countries in different languages: many organisations. Kompass: http://www.kompass.nl; ABC of trade and industry: http://www.abc-d.nl; Europages: http://www.europages.com. http://www.cecshoe.be CEC is the official representative body of the European Confederation of the Footwear Industry. CEC represents 14 national footwear federations of the EU and also the observer CEECs, Tunisia and Morocco. An overview is given of the EU Research Institutes for Shoes, information for consumers, external trade and social aspects. The target group of this site is primarily the European footwear industry, but there is plenty of interesting information for exporters to the EU, other than the so-called observer countries. There are 14 links to interesting footwear websites. http://www.shoelinks.com This website shows a collection of more than a hundred homepages of footwear brands, classified in several categories (men, women, athletes, unisex etc). The site gives a good idea of the latest collections of a large numbers of manufacturers, mainly in Europe and the USA. http://www.worldshoe.com In two languages (Spanish and English) a large number of articles about the latest developments in the footwear industry, country profiles specified as to footwear and leather, events (trade fairs etc.) etc. It is possible, once in two weeks, to receive the latest news from the shoe industry by E-mail (for free); E-commerce (business to business) is also possible. http://www.satra.co.uk Satra is a leading international research and technology organisation for consumer goods industries covering footwear, clothing, leather, etc.; besides an overview of publications, events etc. an overview is given of the test equipment. However, many of the services offered (laboratory tests, comfort and fitting services, technical arbitration), specific publications and magazines are offered exclusively to Satra members. http://www.worldchambers.com World Chambers of Commerce Network, giving an index of chambers of commerce world-wide (national, regional and local). The feature “International Trade Opportunities” is a business match-making platform and has a search engine. Each feature can be searched by continent and gives a country list in alphabetical order.
89 90 91 92 CBI puts you in touch with the markets of Europe Human resources development – BSO MARKET INTEL: five-day seminar in Rotterdam for relevant CBI, the Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries, is an agency middle management staff of BSO’s, aiming at supporting BSO’s in of the Netherlands Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Since its establishment in 1971, CBI establishing or improving a Market Information Service (MIS); operates within the policy framework set by the Minister for Development Co-operation. – CAPITA: two-week seminar in Rotterdam for specific industry & Its mission is to contribute to the economic independence of developing countries. trade associations. Aims to provide –through their associations- To fulfil this mission, CBI aims at strengthening the competitiveness of companies in specific industries or sectors in developing countries with tools to those countries on international markets, primarily the West-European market, by engage in business relations with importers and/or manufacturers improving conditions in enterprises and business support organisations. CBI considers in the EU; social values and compliance with the most relevant environmental requirements to be – BSO-FAME: two-week seminar in Rotterdam for project managers an integral part of its policy and activities of BSOs focusing on practical knowledge and applicable tools in export promotion to international markets in general and the CBI offers various programmes and services to its target groups: European market in particular; –IntFair: two-week seminar in Rotterdam for BSO staff members on Market information the organization of collective participation in European trade fairs; – CBI News Bulletin (6 times annually); – Expro: seven-day seminar in Rotterdam on export marketing and – CBI guide “Exporting to the European Union”; management for selected exporters participating in a CBI export – Market surveys and strategic marketing guides covering the EU including promotion programme; The Netherlands; –Workshops in developing countries: 2-4 days for BSOs and/or – Quick scans on environmental, social and health issues; exporters, focussing on general export marketing and – Manuals on subjects such as technical and environmental regulations, trade fair management, a specific product sector or on specific subjects. participation, Fashion Forecast etc.; – CBI’s extensive Web site at www.cbi.nl providing general information about CBI, Multilateral co-operation details about CBI programmes, CBI publications (downloadable free-of-charge) CBI co-operates with the International Trade Centre (ITC/WTO) to and the GreenBuss database on European trade-related environmental policy and globalize trade promotion and with other European import promotion technology; organizations to increase efficiency and effectiveness by combining – CBI’ s Trade Documentation Centre offering supply-related information to importers, efforts. such as exporters’ directories, country and sector information, periodicals from developing countries, and - to visiting exporters - demand-related information such as Please write to us in English, the working language of the CBI. market information, trade magazines, address books of European companies etc. Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries Matching services Centrum tot Bevordering van de Import uit de ontwikkelingslanden CBI’s computerized exporters’ and importers’ databases, containing around 3,500 regularly updated company profiles, are instrumental in providing buyers and suppliers with relevant company data on potential trade partners. Mailing address: CBI Export promotion programmes (EPP) P.O. Box 30009 Step-by-step approach providing intensive assistance to selected exporters in developing 3001 DA Rotterdam countries in order to obtain a firm and lasting position on the EU market. Made to Phone +31 (0) 10 201 34 34 measure, demand- driven and flexibility are combined with fixed elements such as: Fax +31 (0) 10 411 40 81 –pre-selection of candidates based on written documentation; E-mail [email protected] – technical assistance during company visits and distance guidance by CBI branch Internet www.cbi.nl experts; – export marketing training (for instance through the EXPRO seminars); Office and showroom: – market entry (for instance via participation in European trade fairs); WTC-Beursbuilding, 5th Floor – market consolidation by way of follow-up support, further technical assistance 37 Beursplein, Rotterdam, and/or repeat market entry activities. The Netherlands.
No part of this publication may be sold, reproduced in any form or by any means without the prior permission of CBI EU MARKET SURVEY 2002
EU MARKET SURVEY 2002
PIPE AND PIPE-RELATED PROCESS EQUIPMENT VOLUME II
VOLUME II PIPE AND PIPE-RELATED PROCESS EQUIPMENT
Mailing address: P.O. Box 30009, 3001 DA Rotterdam, The Netherlands Phone: +31 10 201 34 34 Fax: +31 10 411 40 81 E-mail: [email protected] Internet: http://www.cbi.nl CENTRE FOR THE PROMOTION OF IMPORTS FROM DEVELOPING COUNTRIES Office and showroom: WTC-Beursbuilding, 5th floor 37 Beursplein, Rotterdam, The Netherlands