sign in sign up
<<
Home , Albtrauf, Alb (High Rhine), Alb (Upper Rhine), Bad Herrenalb, Bad Liebenzell, Bad Wildbad

Süden The Travel Magazine for SouthWest

Natural highs Exploring the Swabian at your own pace

Rockin’ it out Challenging wall climbs on the

The wild Rangers reveal secrets of the Black National Park CONTENTS

14 Living on the edge The Swabian Alb 22 Rock climbing in Exploring on foot or by bike 2 6 Clean and green The GERMANY National Park G EMBER RTT 72 ENW BA ERN RTH Natural and local N Enjoy some of SouthWest Germany’s tasty treats B T A L S N E I A R B A W Welcome F S Go wild on the river ABIA R SW PE Abseiling, and river P 36 Great adventures C to SouthWest rafting: family fun on the Black A Hike the Black Forest’s grand gorges

LAC L Forest’s river B L A E C REST B N S T Germany! F A N C 32 HIGHLANS E 38 Microadventures 5 ideas for trying something new! The German federal state of - Württemberg is surprisingly wild. Our Try a new watersport! 42 SouthWest Germany’s safaris unspoiled landscapes range from dense In , on Lake Herd sheep; meet mammoths; Constance, above Lake Constance: see primitive horses and open meadows to gurgling scuba dive, sail or fly in an airship 04 Clean and green streams in deep gorges. Green oases 44 Explore SouthWest Germany’s 48 Island in the sun offer tranquility – even in our cities. There green heart Explore two contrasting islands at Lake Constance are also new ways to get out into the SouthWest Germany’s giants 10 Family adventures great outdoors. Breath-taking views and ’s Exotic Forest boasts Sleep under the stars; hear the call 50 Sleep in the great outdoors exciting microadventures: these are just rare old trees, such as towering of the wild; splash around in a brand-new In a tree, a tepee, a wagon or a vineyard! sequoias water park! some of the unforgettable experiences for 52 the whole family. Have fun exploring 12 Treetop views Magic meadows sunny and wild SouthWest Germany! Stunning panoramic observation decks Explore ’s ancient Go wild in the city unspoiled orchards, home to fruit Where to find green oases in 30 Take a walk on the wild side trees, wildflowers and buzzing bees the heart of SouthWest Enjoy unspoiled nature and cultural 56 60 Germany’s cities landscapes 66 Contacts, social media, brochures

2 3 SUNNY SOUTHWEST GERMANY

Give yourself a boost

More and more holidaymakers are renting e-bikes. You still have to pedal, but the motor provides a “boost” when needed – so grandparents can keep up with younger riders! For the more adventurous, downhill mountain bikes are perfect for the specially- designed hill trails. Whether you take on the challenge of a bike park or go for a peaceful ride, cycling is a great way to get away from it all in the Black Forest, the Swabian Alb and in the northern region of SouthWest Germany.

CLEAN Special tip HOLIDAYS ON TWO WHEELS Fancy a touring holiday? AND GREEN SouthWest Germany’s extensive network of well- Exploring the heart marked, dedicated trails includes the scenic - of SouthWest Germany Cycle Trail and the Valley Trail. www.-bw.com

4 5 SUNNY SOUTHWEST GERMANY

Punting through a bird sanctuary

If you love birds, then the Taubergiessen Nature Reserve in the Rhine Valley is the place to go. Just make sure you have your binoculars and camera ready! These wetlands, near , are among the last wilderness areas in Germany. Explore by boat, gliding silently through the water meadows. Look out for families of ducks and coots; spot grey herons, standing like statues on the shore. Swans often follow the boat because they know the skipper, Felix Sigg. He seems to know every bird by name! With his knowledge and some luck, you might see orioles and kingfishers. Tours are well worth it – even in winter.

Special tip ORCHID MEADOW In summer, see the Rheinauen Nature Centre’s orchid meadow near Rust. www.schwarzwald- tourismus.info/Media/ Attraktionen/Naturzentrum- Rheinauen

6 7 SUNNY SOUTHWEST GERMANY

Fly like a bird

Go up, up and away in the Black Forest on the Hirsch- grund Zipline course. South of in the wooded Valley, seven ziplines whisk you up and over steep rocky slopes and across val- leys, hills, streams and trees. Linked by picturesque paths and platforms, each zipline offers a unique experience. The Kimmigberg offers a relaxed gliding experience; the Gründlebahn, 1,900 ft/570 m long and 83 m /275 ft high, is the longest zipline in Germany. Allow 2.5 to 3 hours to complete the full circuit.

Special tip THE ESSENTIALS The minimum age is nine. The minimum weight is 90 pounds/40 kg; maximum weight 250 pounds/115 kg. Harness, helmet, carabiners and pulleys are all provided. www.hirschgrund-zipline.de

8 9 FAMILY ADVENTURES

TRIPSDRILL WILDLIFE PARK: 50 different species THE BLACK FOREST Tripsdrill Wildlife Park, north of , is home to wolves and lynx, otters, bears and more. Children love the outdoor enclosures, where they CAMPING IN THE can get really close to fallow and sika deer, petting and feeding them by hand. Chat to the falconers and watch thrilling flight demonstrations by WILDERNESS birds of prey. www.tripsdrill.de/en/wildlife-park A new – and special – experience is camping overnight in the Black Forest . Deep in the woods, six official trekking camps have been set up, offering space for up to three tents, plus campfires and outdoor toilets. They are only accessible on foot and all equipment, food and water must be carried in by campers. Sites can be booked from May to October; the cost is 10 EUR per tent (2-3 people), per night. Outdoor adventures www.blackforest-tourism.com For little explorers and grown-up adventurers, for nature lovers and sunbathers, SouthWest Germany offers a huge range of outdoor experiences – by day and by night

ZWEITÄLERLAND: Two valleys equal double the fun In the Black Forest, northeast of Freiburg, the Zweitälerland combines the unspoiled and valleys. This region is great for hiking; around Buchholz, follow wine trails through the vineyards. The outdoor fun ranges from to farm holidays, where kids can help the farmer. At Baumkronweg , ’s longest tubular slide is a high- EUROPA-PARK: RULANTICA speed thrill ride, measuring 625 ft/190 m EXPLORER’S BACKPACKS in length. www.zweitaelerland.de Water park thrills! In November 2019, the vast new Rulantica I spy with water park opened at Europa-Park, the popular theme park in Rust, north of my little eye Freiburg. Featuring nine Nordic-themed areas, Rulantica has some 25 attractions, including 17 slides. Be brave and take on “Oh, I am so bored...” Holidays with children are great fun; the the Dugdrob & Vildfål AquaRocket slides; challenge comes when the kids lose interest. SouthWest Germany float along in the current in Vildstrøm; has the perfect solution: rent an Explorer’s Backpack (5 EUR) explore Rangnakor, a city on stilts. at tourist offices in the Black Forest, Swabian Alb and in the Lake Order day tickets in advance online: Constance region. Inside you will find all the essentials needed tickets.rulantica.de to enable a curious mind to discover nature: a magnifying glass, binoculars, compass and even a net for poking around in a pond. Tons of fun! www.tourism-bw.com/experience/family-vacations

10 11 NATURAL HIGHS

SENSATIONAL

TREETOP VISTAS NEW: BLACK FOREST NATIONAL PARK VISITOR CENTRE Birds have the best views! To see what they see, head for these Treetop views six spots, high above SouthWest Germany’s forests 3 ’S TREETOP WALK REMSTALKINO AND THE WILDLINE HANGING BRIDGE 4 Free tickets Reach for the sky Remstalkino means Valley Cinema. That’s because the Drei Riesen (Three Giants) view- 1 point has 26 cinema seats. Sit down, relax and take in the views of vineyards, the Rems and Neckar Valleys and Stuttgart. Best of all, the show is free! Located in , northeast of Stuttgart. www.remstal.info

Opening in late 2020, the Black Forest National Park visitor centre is a wooden construction with an elegant design. Read the displays about the wild forest; take the open-air skywalk, high above the trees, to the angular viewing tower with its panorama. Located near , southeast of Baden-Baden. www.nationalpark-schwarzwald.de/en Stuttgart 1 3 4 6 2 5 BADEN- WÜRTTEMBERG

Enjoy grand views of the Black Forest on the Treetop Walk, which is 4,000 ft/ 5 6 1,250 m long. Follow the spiral board- walk to the observation tower, 130 ft/ 40 m high. Then, for fun, ride back down on the slide! Linking Sommer- berg Mountain to the Treetop Walk is SCHÖNBUCH TOWER the WildLine Suspension Bridge. At 1,250 ft/380 m long, it hangs 200 ft/ 348 steps 60 m above the valley – and it does A dramatic piece of modern architec2- HIRSCHGRUND ZIPLINE ELLBACHSEEBLICK sway a bit! Located east of Baden- ture, the Schönbuch Tower (Schön- More information Baden. www.bad-wildbad.eu buchturm) stands 115 ft/35 m high. Adrenalin rush Peer over the edge Find more Built of and steel, it has three Germany’s longest nature zipline, the Near the village of , on the edge beautiful views at tiers that offer 360-degree views of the Gründlebahn, soars at 1,870 ft/570 m of the Black Forest National Park, the www.tourism-bw.com Schönbuch Nature Park, to the over the Kinzig Valley. A real thrill ride, wheelchair-accessible Ellbachseeblick Swabian Alb and the Black Forest. it is one of seven at the Hirschgrund observation deck opens up glorious Truly fabulous! Near , zipline site. Reach speeds of up to views of the Ellbach Valley and Ellbach north of Tübingen, this is SouthWest 37 mph/60 kmph! Located south of Lake below. A real treat for the eyes! Germany’s oldest nature park. Freudenstadt. www.hirschgrund- www.blackforest-tourism.com www.naturpark-schoenbuch.de/en/ zipline.de

12 13 THE SWABIAN ALB

Challenges great and small

The mountains and valleys of the Swabian Alb are fun to explore for a day, a week or a fortnight. Go on foot or speed things up on bikes or e-bikes: two great ways to enjoy the natural but diverse landscape

FABIAN TEUBER GREGOR LENGLER

There are sweeping views from the Alb’s steep rocky escarpment

14 15 THE SWABIAN ALB

Great one-day and multi-day tours Multi-day tours • Albtäler Cycle Tour: 115 miles/186 km • Cycle Path: 126 miles/203 km • Kocher-Jagst Cycle Path: 206 miles/332 km • Neckar Valley Cycle Path: 228 miles/368 km • Mountain Beer Tour: 70 miles/112 km For more multi-day tours, visit Along the way, bright www.schwaebischealb.de/rad/ red poppies are dotted among deep green fields Even Mother Nature One-day tours cannot conquer • Donaubikeland Geo-Tour: the impregnable 31 miles/50 km Reussenstein Castle • Castle Tour, with Neckar Valley: 29 miles/46 km • Kornbühl Tour: 13 mile/20 km • Lonetal Cycle Path: back onto our e-bikes and are off again. By the 25 mile/41 km hilltop fortress is ideal for a short end of the tour, the elevation changes will have break, before snaking back down MOUNTAIN BIKING For more multi-day tours, visit totalled some 23,000 ft/7,000 m. An impressive to a rural trail. To the left and right www.schwaebischealb.de/rad IN THE SWABIAN ALB stat! High on the plateau, the trails are fairly there are gnarled apple and cherry flat; heading down into the valleys, they be- trees, plus sheep and horses. We come steep, like a rollercoaster ride. Sometimes hear the trill of crickets. Fields of he sun has just peeked over the we puff and pant on long climbs; other times, wheat are dotted with swathes of mountains of the Swabian Alb. The we pedal fast on the flat, level trails. Then it is red poppies. On we pedal: the sur- first pale rays light up the lush green full speed ahead downhill, hurtling around fast face changes yet again and our tyres meadows near Bad Urach, an hour bends with the wind in our faces and our hands crunch over gravel. southeast of Stuttgart. The trees still gripping the brakes. The daily stages of 30 to 45 We relish the exercise, but don’t want to be cast long shadows, but our day has The land- miles (50 to 70 km) are a real test of our fitness, exhausted. That’s why the e-bikes are perfect. A blue X on a Talready begun. We stand right on the edge of matched by a real sense of achievement at the Sitting high up in the saddle, we feel part of the yellow background the , the steep rocky escarpment that scape is end of the day. unspoiled countryside. The Alb-Crossing route marks the Alb- is typical of this geological playground. We Along the Alb-Crossing trail, there is so cuts through forest and meadows to open heath C r o s s i n g pause for a moment to enjoy the magic of the the star much to see and do. In , the and passes gurgling brooks. Needles to say, early morning calm. Then it is time to push on. Museum is all about the northern frontier of SouthWest Germany’s sun-shine doesn’t dis­ Our goal? To cross the Swabian Alb in six days. attraction” the ; Teck Castle has connec- On the high plateau, the route appoint along the way! Luckily, we are on e-bikes. tions with the British Royal Family; the film runs through green meadows In German, this scenic cycle trail is called Ursula Teufel, Sleeping Beauty was shot at Lichtenstein the Alb-Crossing. On the map, our route Swabian Alb Castle; is the ancestral runs for 230 miles/370 km, from Aalen in the Tourism seat of the German Emperors; the Nebelhöhle northeast to in the southwest. So far, Cave has amazing stalactites and stalagmites. we have covered about half the distance. We get As for Hohenneuffen Castle, this 16th century,

16 17 THE SWABIAN ALB

Views are spectacular from the steep slope of Mount Böllat, near

HIKE IN THE SWABIAN ALB

ur path through a meadow full of wildflowers, then enters the dense forest, becoming narrower and narrower as we go deeper and deeper. From time to time, we catch a glimpse of the valley between the Otrees. In the silence, we clamber over the gnarled roots of mighty . The view suddenly opens up, taking us by surprise. Diagonally across from us, sitting on a hilltop, is the imposing bulk of Hohenzollern Castle, somehow very close and yet very far away. Like a fairytale, almost unreal. We are on the Albsteig hiking trail that runs diagonally across the Swabian Alb from Donau­ wörth in the northeast to Tuttlingen in the southwest. Pretty much in the middle of the 222 miles/358 km long route is the charming ment. Sometimes the path dips down drama- Urach , city of , with the tallest church spire in the tically; sometimes glorious panoramas open the most famous in world. This long-distance trail requires time: up. We come across wild streams and grazing the Swabian Alb, is time to walk, time to appreciate the many facets sheep, barren heath and endless vistas. And 120 ft/37 m high of this unusual landscape, and time to be just there are hours of hiking through the forest. with ourselves! We could complete the trail in a Anyone who wants to get away from the hubbub couple of weeks or so if we chalked up the miles of daily life soon realises that the Swabian Alb every day. Unfortunately, we do not have that offers something valuable: a renewed apprecia- much time. But we do like the idea of completing tion of unspoiled nature. Everything is so calm, the whole distance with a group of friends. and the landscapes change gradually. The The Albsteig tends to follow the edge of the scenery is sometimes beautiful, sometimes Near Albstadt, there is a famous vertiginous Traufkante, the Alb’s steep and rocky escarp- wild, but rarely bleak. rocky ledge that projects from the hillside. We stop for a break and pluck up the courage to Exploring the Alb on foot or on two wheels climb the craggy rocks. It is well worth it for the The Alb-Crossing route crosses the Alb, rising and falling phenomenal view. But this is just one of the 23,000 ft/7,000 m along the 228 miles/368 km between Aalen Bad Urach’s stunning attractions along the way, from his- Aalen and Tuttlingen. Most of the route is technically easy, but good fitness market square is toric towns and impressive castles to palaces lined with half- and prehistoric caves. It is important to allow levels are essential for what usually takes six days to complete. timbered houses STUTTGART Donauwörth time to stop and see these along the way, to The Albsteig follows Germany’s HW1 long-distance hiking Neckar Ulm take side trips for unexpected adventures, and Danube trail, created more than 100 years ago by the Swabian Hiking to relax over hearty lunches in jolly inns. Or just to chat to a shepherd. We soon realise that Association. Divided into sections between Donauwörth and Tuttlingen, to complete the whole Albsteig hiking trail, we the Albsteig trail’s 222 miles/358 km are rated among the top trails in Freiburg Tuttlingen Swabian Alb need much longer than the suggested 15 days. Germany. Albsteig Trail (HW1) That’s for enthusiastic hikers; at a much more Rhine More information For more on hiking and biking tours, as well as sights Alb-Crossing leisurely pace, it takes hikers about 25 days to Lake Constance in the Swabian Alb, visit www.schwaebischealb.de complete.

18 19 THE SWABIAN ALB

MEDITATION TRAIL Get more out of life MORE GREAT HIKES Step by step, you leave everyday life behind you on the Besinnungsweg (Meditation Trail). Walk the circular route in either direction. Its 32 miles/51 km The hiking trails that criss-cross the Swabian lead through deep forest, across sunny meadows Alb show off the region’s diverse landscapes. and pass small towns, such as Altsteusslingen, From hour to hour and day to day, the specta- Dächingen, Frankenhofen, Granheim, Erbstetten, Mundingen and Ehingen. There are never-ending THE SHEPHERD’S TRAIL cular views are always changing glorious views as you walk through this centuries-old cultural landscape, southwest of Ulm. Find relaxation, Shepherd’s footsteps meaning and inspiration. The Albschäferweg (Shepherd’s Trail) reflects the 500-year-old tradition of raising sheep in the Swabian Alb. Shepherds still guard flocks on the heaths, in valley meadows and on the edge of DANUBE-ZOLLERNALB TRAIL forests, which protect rare animals and plants. Starting in Giengen an der Brenz, northeast Variety guaranteed of Ulm, the trail is well marked, with a white shepherd on a blue background. Parts of this 10-stage circular route (100 miles/158 km) are remote, so be sure to carry water and a picnic.

East of Freiburg, this 10-day hike offers a range of attractions along its 100 miles/158 km: , with its abbey; a stretch of the Danube; historic towns; secluded valleys; rocky escarp- ments. At Mountain, the route joins the spectacular.

DANUBE HIGHLAND TRAIL Nature and romance, valleys and mountains

In the mountainous Danube back country, the Donauberg- landweg (Danube Highland Trail) only covers 40 miles/60 km, but the four testing stages rise and fall 10,000 ft/3,200 m. Hikers cross the “roof” of the Swabian Alb and climb down to its “Grand ”, the gorge of the upper Danube. One of More information Germany’s best trails. Located east of Freiburg. LichtensteinLichtenstein Find a range of hiking routes at Castle inat thethe www.schwaebischealb.de/ Swabian Alb wandern/fernwanderwege

20 21 Living on the edge Hessigheim is renowned for its vineyards and top-class wines. But great hiking and climbing, plus unspoiled scenery, make it extra special

CHRISTIANE WÜRTENBERGER GREGOR LENGLER

Rock climbing on the Neckar River. Hessig- heim is only an hour away from Stuttgart

22 23 STUTTGART REGION

Wines from the Neckar and Valleys

Some 1,400 winegrowers in and around Hessigheim are members of the Felsengartenkellerei wine co-op. Annually, they produce 9,000 tonnes (eight million kilos) of grapes on The Felsengarten (Rock 1,750 acres (700 hectares) of sunny Gardens) – a natural slopes along the River Neckar and the Rock climbing high playground River Enz. Their high-quality wines are above the Neckar, with views to made from typical Württemberg grape Besigheim varieties, such as , Lemberger, Müller- and Riesling. You can taste and buy these wines on site. The Felsengartenkellerei also offers that it’s just as nice as being on the fun activities, from guided tours and beach. This comparison is not that wagon rides to festivals. The photo far-fetched – this was once an ocean. vy wraps itself around the trees that grow For him, rock climbing provides a physical test shows oenologist Sebastian Häuser in The Hessigheim down in the small, shady gorge above the as well as relaxation: “I love to be outdoors (German for shell-bearing lime- the co-op cellar. River Neckar between Stuttgart and Heil- where all I have to worry about is where I am stone) consists of sedimentary rocks bronn. Juliana ties the safety rope to her putting my hands and feet next.” created during the period waist belt, rubs her hands with magnesia about 240 million years ago. Climb­ climbing chalk and makes her way onto a A natural balcony with views ing has been popular here since the Ismall ledge. As her hands look for a grip on the The smooth 1920s; in 1942, the Rock Gardens smooth rock face, her friend Jens makes sure over the Neckar attracts sunbathers and walkers, who pause to were declared a nature reserve. For that her ascent is secure. The first route Juliana rock makes take in views that stretch far beyond the river. Juliana and Jens, the Hessigheim is taking today runs between two narrow lime- Another part of Hessigheim’s unique appeal is As for the climbers, they are in the midst of it all, Rock Gardens are the perfect des- stone towers. The so-called Rosenstöckle, Rose climbing the special flora and fauna that can be found yet in total quiet. “Is the route free up there?” tination after work. “Sometimes,” Bush Route, gets its name from the wild roses there. These rocks provide a habitat for rare a voice calls out from below. “The way is says Jens, “we’ll just climb one of that grow at the top. very lichens, grasses and flowering plants, many clear, so you’re good to go!” There are about the rocks and then relax, have a picnic and The vineyards It’s Friday afternoon in the Hessigheimer with exotic names, such as eyelash pearl grass, 130 climbing routes to choose from, some up enjoy the views – it’s so beautiful.” extend right up Felsengärten, the Hessigheim Rock Gardens, challenging” chalice weed, stonecrop, Carthusian carnation, to 60 ft/18 m long. Ranging in difficulty from to the limestone which are a favourite among local rock climbers, noble gamander and cinquefoil. Birds level 3 to level 9, there is scope for beginners cliffs as well as those from all over Germany. There is Juliana, like to nest in the limestone nooks and wall and advanced climbers, as well as boulderers a crevice halfway up the cliff – this is the territory rock climber lizards also find homes there. At the foot of the and mountaineers. From the early afternoon, of rock climbers. “This is a great training area cliffs, vineyards producing award-winning wines the rocks are dotted with climbers in brightly after work or at the weekend,” says Jens, who, slope down to the River Neckar. coloured clothing. The relaxed mood spills over More information like Juliana, lives nearby. Jens is a winegrower At the top, families with children and dogs to spectators, who have found seats on the The Hessigheim wine region is north of Stuttgart: who works in the Felsengartenkellerei wine stroll along the path that runs along the cliff benches to watch the action. The rock gardens www.tourism-bw.com/things-to-do/ cellars (see box) and also grows wine himself. edge. There is a grand, natural balcony that are in summer weekend mode. Locals insist wine-dine/great-wine

24 25 BLACK FOREST NATIONAL PARK

Relax in the forest

Explore the Black Forest National Park on a ranger-led tour; get in touch with nature in this unspoiled treasure

CHRISTIANE WÜRTENBERGER GREGOR LENGLER

Moss thrives on branches in the wild and often misty Bühlerhöhe forest

26 27 The distinctive trail of a bark beetle (left); a dung beetle (below)

he morning air is pleasantly cool, nursery will grow dramatically in the future clean and fresh. The raindrops that because at some point the dead tree trunk will fell last night sit like pearls on the collapse. That will allow the sun to penetrate to leaves and pine needles. We are deep the forest floor, triggering new life. The Black in the Black Forest National Park, east Forest National Park is one of Germany’s newest of the small town of Bühl. Hiking here conservation areas. The only national park in Tis a new experience; we climb over fallen tree SouthWest Germany, it is home to a natural trunks, scramble along dried-up river beds and woodland dating back over 100 years. Covering hear the song of the chaffinches. As park ranger some 25,000 acres/10,000 hectares, the park Florian Hofmann leads us along a path through opened in 2014 and protects forests, moors, the wilderness, we can feel, smell and almost mountain heathland and lakes. Its 40 square Discover a variety Even a dead tree taste the forest. Yet, we are only about half an miles/100 square km cover two areas: one in of tiny natural is full of life; just hour south of the elegant spa town of Baden- the north around the /Plättig wonders on ranger- take a closer look Baden. Mountain; the other further south, where the led tours mountain pass is home to the National A forest world in miniature Park Centre (page 31). The motto is always stay on the trails and leave no trace. The moss on dead branches is soft, and if we look Up on the plateau, the path snakes through closely at the fallen tree trunks, we discover a the middle of the thicket, taking visitors close to the Bannwald, the protected forest that pro- Although you seldom catch a glimpse of these forest world in miniature. There are meadows vides refuge for endangered species of plants, uncommon forest inhabitants, that is not the of lichen, tiny fir trees and even a strange type animals and fungi. Here, the sun pierces the most important thing. What is important is that, of fungus that was once used as tinder to start dense green canopy, and small, dark leaves here in the heart of Europe, this wilderness still fires. Ranger Hofmann explains that this tree dance in the shafts of light. The forest wraps exists. It’s not what you do in this forest, but Facts and Figures itself around visitors like a protective cloak. It In the rather what the forest does to you. The forest is truly far removed from everyday life, from is never in a hurry. The forest offers you time about the National Park: noise and worry, from jobs and to-do lists. This National to think, plus peace of mind and serenity. And world has a different rhythm. untamed beauty. Size: 40 sq miles/100 sq km To enjoy this experience to the full, we are Sunny days per year: 165 Park, out with ranger Florian Hofmann. He points out Foggy days per year: 180 tiny details: he encourages us to chew on sorrel Most venomous animal: European viper we are just (very sour) and to peer through binoculars into Fastest bird: Peregrine falcon 225 mph/360 km/h dark caves. He explains the feeding patterns spectators” Smallest owl: Pygmy owl 6-7 inches/16-19 cm long of the eight-toothed spruce bark beetle, which More information Ranger walks: About 6 miles/10 km per day leaves lacy patterns on the underside of tree Florian Hofmann, First guided tour starts at 5am; the last at 10pm bark. The national park is also home to pine park ranger For information on events, tours and both the old martens, three-toed woodpeckers, pygmy and and new national park centres, visit scavenger owls, as well as rare jays and plants. www.nationalpark-schwarzwald.de/en/

28 29 UNSPOILED NATURE

TAKE A WALK The stillness of Huzenbacher See, ON THE WILD SIDE near Baiersbronn Many areas of SouthWest Germany are protected – from dense forests, beautiful valleys and wild mountain meadows to orchards, lakes and clear streams. Visitors can enjoy unspoiled nature, as well as cultural landscapes

SWABIAN ALB BIOSPHERE RESERVE Castles and cattle 2

BLACK FOREST NATIONAL PARK BLACK FOREST Into the wilderness BIOSPHERE RESERVE 3 Home to humans 7 and animals Visitors can experience the wild side of the Black Forest in the 9 8 1 Black Forest National Park. Between Baden-Baden and Freudenstadt, Stuttgart Six once met in this beautiful region, some 40 sq miles/100 sq km have been set aside as wilderness. 5 4 2 where low mountains, valleys, pastures and In late 2020, a new and architecturally astounding National Park 3 BADEN- forests create a special eco-system that is Orchards, heathland dotted with sheep and dense Centre will open on Mount Ruhestein. Three large buildings will house WÜRTTEMBERG home to a wide range of species, including rare forests characterise the Swabian Alb. Perfect for a holiday, a permanent, interactive exhibition that includes a virtual reality tour of animals and plants. From May 2020, children this is the place to see prehistoric animals, such as buffalo, the National Park. One section of the exhibition will even take you underground. 1 10 can learn fascinating facts about the animal and ancient Celtic relics. Enjoy the great outdoors by hiking www.nationalpark-schwarzwald.de/en/ 6 inhabitants on a new wilderness adventure trail or biking from castle to castle through fabulous landscapes. in the St. Wilhelm Valley, southeast of Freiburg. www.schwaebischealb.de/markenpartner/ www.schwarzwald-tourismus.info biosphaerengebiet

Lovingly protected landscapes 3,885 sq km) offers activities 7 Neckartal- Appreciate the park’s diversity, in seven nature parks year round and is home to three Nature Park To the east of go hiking or biking. of the Black Forest’s highest , this unspoiled land­ www.naturpark-sfw.de More information 4 Schönbuch Nature Park endangered species survive peaks: the , Herzogen­ scape boasts rugged , Visit This is a popular recreational area, among the bogs and limestone horn and . www. unusual rock formations and an 9 Stromberg Heuchelberg www.tourism-bw.com with hiking and biking trails – rocks of the park’s 1,450 sq naturpark-suedschwarzwald.de endless forest. www.naturpark- Nature Park “Woods. Wine. and and wildlife galore. Located north miles/3,755 sq km. And 50 neckartal-odenwald.de Wellness” is the motto of this www.instagram.com/ of Tübingen. www.naturpark- accredited local producers reserve. Many of the region’s www.naturpark-stromberg- from the period. As for naturebawu schoenbuch.de/en serve local dishes! 8 Swabian-Franconian sunny slopes are dotted heuchelberg.de the Danube Sink, this is where using the hashtag Forest Nature Park Northeast with vines; valleys are full of the river sinks through the earth #natureBaWu 5 Central and Northern 6 of Stuttgart, walk through orchards; tree-covered hills are 10 Upper Danube Nature into caverns. Located south Black Forest Nature Park Nature Park Germany’s largest forests, meadows and orchards, home to rare wildcats. Located Park Rock climbers love the of Tübingen. www.naturpark- From adders to grouse, many Nature Park (1,500 sq miles/ and discover ravines and caves. northwest of Stuttgart. bizarre limestone formations obere-donau.de

30 31 THE BLACK FOREST Splash down! At the heart of the Black Forest, the untamed River Murg offers gentle adventure for the whole family, from abseiling and hiking to river rafting

ANNA MONTERROSO CARNEIRO GREGOR LENGLER

Thrills galore for the whole family on the River Murg

32 33 THE BLACK FOREST

y pulse is racing. Almost in a trance, I climb over the guard- rail and hang on to the rope, holding it with both hands. I suddenly realise that I am on the wrong side of the railing. MBelow me, I can hear the sound of the river gurgling and children laughing. There is no turning back; I cannot change my mind now! “When you’re ready, just let go!”

Clayton peers over the railing on the bridge and smiles at me encouragingly. I hold my breath, let go – and nothing happens. The belt holds; the rope holds; I am still breathing. Step by step, Clayton gently lowers me down from the bridge. This is the start of an Adventure Day in the Black Forest, near the villages of and Raumünzach, southeast of Baden-Baden. First up is the full-on adrenalin rush of abseiling

Above: Hopping Below: Beautiful from stone to ferns grow along stone on the the river Smiling riverbed above the abyss: Every year, editor Anna Monterroso ice and high above the Murg water carve out a new the shade. The other participants are nearby: ton says we have barely walked half a mile/ Listen to the River can have as many goes as we want, as long as riverbed” a mother with her daughter and son. Together, 1 kilometre.After the hike, we drive to Forbach, Murg as it rushes we have the energy and are having fun. And we they are peering at their camera screen, trying which is 3 miles/6 km away. Here we relax and round and over the have plenty of both! Guide Clayton to capture the best possible photo. There are so have lunch in the Adventure World beer gar- rocks At the end of the day, as we peel off our life Prestigiacomo on many down here. The Murg tumbles over red den. Next up is a thrill ride: the river rafting jackets and wetsuits, my question is: “Were you the River Murg sand-stone and . Sometimes the rocks session! Equipped with life jackets, helmets and scared when you did the abseiling?” “No!” was are huge boulders; other times, they have been paddles, we assemble at the entry point. Here the loud and unanimous response from Clayton’s down from a 50-ft/15-m-high bridge. Next up reduced to pebbles in the riverbed. To the right the water is calm and the river is wide, but after children. Their courage was impressive. But I am is a hike, scrambling along the rocky bed of the and left, maple and ash trees spread out their a few minutes, the river narrows, the current also proud of myself. I realise that my answer is River Murg. The final challenge is river rafting. leaves, providing cool shade. picks up speed and swirling add to the also: “No”. Even though it is a little quieter. That all sounds adventurous, but it is, in fact, excitement. Our instructions are clear. Kneel lots of fun for any children over the age of six. “If you get wet, it’s your own ” down; let the front man do the steering; always Today, Clayton is our guide. In his three years listen to the helmsman. at Adventure World, he says, grinning broadly, Down by the Murg, Clayton shows us the best In theory, that sounds easy. But as soon he has not yet dropped any of his guests off the and safest route along the riverbed, helping us as we kneel down in the craft, we forget More information bridge. And his own children are also part of on slippery rocks and telling us all about the everything. We all paddle like mad, we bump Detailed information about Adventure World today’s group. river and its inhabitants. We learn that this is into rocks and, at times, even go backwards. is available at www.murgtal-arena.de; I then open my eyes and look down. Clayton’s home to the yellow-bellied toad and the grass After a few minutes, we go ashore and pull our little son is jumping energetically from one rock snake. The Murg is only 50 miles/80 km long; vessel onto the river bank. Then we carry the More on the Black Forest is available at to the other, and his big sister is watching us from that’s almost as long as our hike feels. But Clay- boat back to the start and do it all again. We www.blackforest-tourism.com/

34 35

MONBACHTAL VALLEY Who knew that hiking could be Family friendly so romantic? The wild, romantic River provides a moderately difficult hike for all ages. From station, the circular route (7 miles/11 km) follows the stream that meanders through the Monbachtal Gorge. Think moss- The schnapps is covered rocks and fallen tree trunks, jagged rock walls cooled naturally and rare plant life, and stepping stones. Families in mountain with children love the nature reserve. spring water www.wandern-schwarzwald.info With vineyards and orchards, the landscape is GREAT GORGES, beautiful WILD ADVENTURES Tens of millions of years ago, ice and water carved out deep gorges in the Black Forest landscape. Hiking through ravines today is like

taking a geology lesson RAVENNA GORGE Narrow and steep Hike the 6 miles/10 km in and out of the Ravenna Gorge; your reward is seeing the Great Ravenna Fall (50 ft/ The Schnapps Distillery Trails GAISHÖLL WATERFALLS 16 m). Crossing the lower part of the gorge you will find the Ravenna Up, down and Bridge, where a romantic Christmas Dedicated to schnapps, the Schnapsbrunnenwege are the world’s most unusual all around market is held beneath the arches. hiking routes. Along Black Forest paths, ten “schnapps fountains” offer hikers free Nearby there is a 12th-century chapel and the Hofgut Sternen inn, with its samples of locally distilled spirits impressive visitors’ list dating back centuries. Located southeast of GAUCHACH GORGE Freiburg. www.hochschwarzwald.de “ f cars need petrol and horses need oats, what do start in Sasbachwalden. Allow two hours for the northern hikers need?” is a local joke. The answer is an occa- loop (4 miles/7 km) and four hours for the southern loop 360-degree views sional pick-me-up. As well as being the birthplace of (7.7 miles/12 km). The Gauchach stream lends its name recreational hiking, the Black Forest is renowned Strategically located at beautiful vantage points, the foun- to the Gauchach Gorge, nicknamed for its small-scale family distilleries. These trans- tains offer hikers an excuse to stop, enjoy the views and have the “little sister” of the Gorge. form locally grown apricots, cherries and apples into a sip of the local schnapps. The best time to visit? Locals Cutting deep into the limestone, this Ischnapps, world-class fruit brandies. Around Sasbachwalden, recommend sultry summer evenings, when the sun is setting narrow is home to a rich variety south of Baden-Baden, the Schnapps Distillery Trails behind the Mountains to the west. But the orchards of flora and fauna. A round-trip hike (Schnapsbrunnenwege) typify traditional hospitality. Along are beautiful in spring when the fruit trees are in bloom, of 3.5 miles/5.6 km takes in several A lot is packed into this walk, a round More information the paths, bottles of schnapps cool naturally in the cold, while in autumn, the vineyards are a tapestry of colour. waterfalls. Start from Mundelfingen, trip of 3 miles/5 km: 13 bridges and clear, mountain spring water of the “schnapps fountains”. Other great hiking southeast of Freiburg, where the 225 steps; huge rocks and boulders; Help yourself to free samples or pay a small fee for other experiences await you at trailhead car park offers magnificent a 650-ft/200-m change in altitude. drinks, such as liqueurs and . There are also soft drinks www.schwarzwald- panoramic views of the Swabian Alb. Don’t miss the dancing waterfalls of the for children. www.hochschwarzwald.de Gaishöll Gorge. In the Northern Black tourismus.info With four different climate zones, the Sasbachwalden re- More information Forest, the trail starts at the Zum Alde gion is a popular holiday destination. The network of hiking Find tips for hikers, schnapps lovers and Gott restaurant in Sasbachwalden, trails criss-crosses the glorious landscape, where some peaks the Schnapps Distillery Trails at south of Baden-Baden. stand over 3,000 ft/1,000 m tall. The two schnapps trails www.sasbachwalden.de www.sasbachwalden.de

3640 4137

Gelesen MICROADVENTURES

SURVIVAL CAMP NORTH THE BLACK FOREST SPICE UP YOUR Outdoor adventures They call it “Nagold on the Iceberg”, a survival HOLIDAY WITH camp run by expert guides – in winter! First, you hike into the camp in the forest; all MICROADVENTURES skills are taught, from making a proper fire to spending the night outdoors. Think sunshine, You don’t have to go to the ends of the earth blue skies, dry air and ice-cold temperatures. Only bookable by request for groups up to for memorable experiences and a real buzz. 12 people, this is an experience like no other. SouthWest Germany offers thrills for all the Located west of Tübingen. www.hochseilgarten-nagold.de family. Here are six microadventures that are easy to build into a holiday

CANYONING IN THE THE FALKENSTEIN CAVE Underground adventures Stuttgart 2 5 4 4 BADEN-3 Near Reutlingen, the famous Falkenstein Cave has WÜRTTEMBERG underground streams, which are perfect for canyoning 1 between 1 April and 30 September. With experienced 6 guides, adventurers from the age of eight can scramble, climb, abseil and swim deep within the Jurassic lime stone 3 rocks of the Swabian Alb. Helmets, waterproof lights and wetsuits are provided. www.cojote-outdoor.de

PANNING FOR GOLD ON THE RHINE Eureka! Gold has fascinated mankind since the beginning of time. So, why not try to strike gold yourself? Learn how to pan for gold using age- 5 PARAGLIDING TANDEM FLIGHTS old techniques. It’s fun for the whole family! TRAILSURFERS 1 In , southwest of Freiburg. More MOUNTAIN BIKE TRAILS FOR ALL Together in the air www.goldsucher.de information After taking a few quick steps down the hill, the paraglider Legal in the valley For more lifts off, carrying you and your pilot up into the air. This is an You don’t have to be a professional mountain microadventures unforgettable adventure, flying high above the glorious Black ALBTAL.2 ADVENTURE. TRACK biker to ride the trails in the Bottwartal Valley, in SouthWest Forest. As pilots are specially trained with tandem flight near Marbach. On properly-tuned mountain permits, you will be safe and secure. Prices start at 105 EUR, Testing trekking Germany, visit bikes and wearing the right protective gear, you including equipment and insurance. www.luftzeiten.de The Albtal. Adventure. Track is a rugged, cross- www.tourism-bw. can enjoy downhill adventures that are rated as country hiking route, with two day-long stages com “legal”. The Baden-Württemberg Trailsurfers’ in the . This is a tough philosophy is to create trails that are in harmony challenge along pristine trails that stretch for with local communities: that’s what makes 30 miles/47 km between and them “legal”. Located north of Stuttgart. , northeast of Baden-Baden. www.trailsurfers-bw.de www.albtal-tourismus.de

38 6 39 NORTHERN BLACK FOREST

Adventure ON TWO WHEELS Mountain biking heaven in the countryside The Wanderhimmel is a popular network of hiking trails around Baiersbronn, offering 340 miles/ The Northern Black Forest is still wild and unspoiled. Here are three 550 km of outdoor fun. Now this “hiking heaven” is also a mountain biking heaven, with 11 tours, great experiences – on foot, on two wheels and high in the sky totalling 250 miles/400 km, criss-crossing the heart MURG VALLEY ROCK CLIMBING of the Black Forest National Park. Steep climbs provide the challenge; winding downhill runs provide Forbach’s famous ascents the thrills. About 60 per cent of the Black Forest The Murgtal, the valley of the River Murg, is guarded by National Park is around Baiersbronn. For wide dramatic rock formations made of red , granite and 44 MILES/70 KM IN THREE DAYS passes through the Schweinbachtal Valley to , forest roads and single-track trails through untamed . And in the area around Forbach, these offer fun rock where you can explore the ruins of the monastery. Finish forest, check out Tour 3. Keen cyclists love the wide climbing experiences for all levels, from beginner through to A circular hike from back in Calw. Packages for this hike include two nights’ grinds and tree-free heath­-land of Tour 4, while the advanced. Particularly popular with families are the Gausbacher The Stiefelreise is a circular route, west of Stuttgart, which accommodation and luggage transfer. glacial lakes of Tour 1 and bubbling waterfalls on Strassenfelsen, the cliffs that can be climbed via 37 different links Calw, Sprollenhaus and Schömberg. Over three days, Tour 9 call for photos. These well-signposted tours routes. More demanding are the Eulenfelsen (Owl Rock) and you will cover 44 miles/70 km, walking through a beautiful range between 9 and 50 miles (13 and 81 km) and the via ferrata Graffiti Wall and Pumprisse. You will be rewarded landscape that includes valleys, forest and bogs. Start in are graded for different ability levels. Sixty-three with great views of one of the Black Forest’s deepest and Calw. The birthplace of author Hermann also boasts per cent of the signposted trails are used by hikers largest valleys! half-timbered buildings and an ancient monastery. Day one as well as bikers, so it’s important to take care on is from Calw to the small town of Sprollenhaus (16 miles/ tight bends and fast descents. Special experiences 26 km). Start day two by climbing up to the Wildseemoor include themed, guided bike tours. For example, the Nature Reserve, Germany’s highest . Boardwalks The - gourmet tour (25 miles/40 km) goes hut-to-hut, with over the peat lead you to the Lake Wildsee (see photo). Then, m o o r N a t u r e stops for tasty treats. it’s on through SouthWest Germany’s largest protected Reserve has forest and across the Mount Sommerberg. Continue down Germany’s More information into the handsome spa town of Bad Wildbad; finish the day largest high- More Information to hiking trails is available at: in Schömberg. On day three (10 miles/17 km), the route land moor www.blackforest-tourism.com/discovery/hiking

40 41 ON SAFARI IN SOUTHWEST GERMANY

ICE AGE SAFARI EXHIBITION GO ON SAFARI ’S REISS-ENGEL- HORN MUSEUMS IN SOUTHWEST Face to face with GERMANY big mammoths Explore SouthWest Germany’s natural world. Spot kingfishers on the River Nagold and migrating birds on Lake Constance; herd Swabian Alb sheep and see extinct 3 mammals. The variety is extraordinary! 2

BIRDWATCHING ON LAKE CONSTANCE In 2020, young and old can journey 1 Just passing through? SHEPHERD FOR A DAY back through time in Mannheim’s World Cultures Museum. They can Birdwatchers love Lake Constance, where they Flocking to the discover the world as it was between can spot some 300 species during the year, from Swabian Alb 35,000 and 15,000 years ago. Even black-necked grebes and lapwings to red-crested better, they can get up close to pochards of the duck family. One of the best mammoths, cave lions and giant deer places is the Wollmatinger Marsh wetlands on and – the big beasts of the last Ice Age. around . www.bodensee.eu. From 20 September. 4 www.rem-mannheim.de/en/ PRIMEVAL MEADOWS 5 A quarry full of life 3 Near Blaubeuren, southeast of Stutt- gart, a disused quarry has been trans- KINGFISHER TRAIL formed into a fascinating biodiversity Stuttgart project, run by Heidelberg Cement. Do you fancy looking after 750 ewes and At home on the water As Taurus cattle (like the aurochs, the lambs? You can spend a day or so with In Germany, the number of kingfishers is in decline. But a good place to 1 ancestor of domestic cattle) and Konik shepherds from the Höfel & Braun flock More information look out for this fast-paced hunter is southeast of Baden-Baden on the horses (semi-feral primitive horses) near Messstetten, southwest of Stutt- 4 For more trips with a Kingfisher Trail in , near the Nagold Dam. You have to be very graze, they maintain a habitat that gart. Offered from early April, when the close to slow-running, still or even stagnant waters – and you must be 5 supports other rare animals and sheep head for spring meadows, part of difference in the great very, very patient. The reward could be a glimpse of shining turquoise-blue plants. There are three observation the experience is to follow them as they outdoors, visit plumage flashing past on a low level dive. 2 points. www.quarrylifeaward.com move from pasture to pasture. Prices www.tourism-bw.com start at 120 EUR for adults, 30 EUR for children. www.schwaebischealb.de/ attraktionen/der-wanderschaefer

42 43 LAKE CONSTANCE

Take a different perspective

On Lake Constance, in Lake Constance, high above Lake Constance: every viewpoint opens up new perspectives. And we have tried them all, from beginner’s courses in and

Lake Constance scuba diving to sightseeing in an airship is a natural playground for FABIAN TEUBER DIETMAR DENGER w a t e r s p o r t s

44 45 LAKE CONSTANCE

Sailing is fun for all and a great way to explore Lake Constance

Zeppelin airship, high above There are only five airships in the world. Lake Constance, provides Two are based here in , a totally different view of where they were invented a century ago: the the world. At the airfield, first Zeppelin maiden flight was in 1900. Other “Is the wind passengers are ready and than the name, today’s airships have little in about to pick up?” waiting, as the Zeppelin ho- common with that innovative machine. The versA and then lands gently. As one returning design and propulsion have changed; the passenger steps out, one of us climbs aboard, “envelope” is filled with helium rather than maintaining the weight and balance. This hydrogen. In the spacious gondola, each of the well-practiced manoeuvre is all part of the 12 passengers has a window seat; 1,000 ft/ Zeppelin experience. Soon, the airship takes 300 m above Lake Constance, the breath- off again with its new load of passengers. taking views take in four countries and the Pilot Marco Hollerer describes his craft as a snow-tipped . hybrid, a mix of aircraft, hot air balloon and helicopter. Zeppelins glide silently through the Next, I want to get out on Lake Constance Explore the fasci- air with ease, perfect for sightseeing flights itself, so I take a sailing lesson. At first, the- nating underwater wonder Lake Constance hosts top events on me. Maren’s tip? First-timers, who have never over one of Europe’s most beautiful lakes. re is hardly any wind. Then, our instructor, world of Lake the international yachting calendar, such as the dived the lake before, should always book a local Carola Habenicht, points to the water’s surface: Constance long-distance Rund Um race and the century- guide. That way, they get to discover the lake’s “See those ripples? The breeze is picking up.” old International Bodenseewoche sailing week. special underwater secrets, from those awe- Moments later, the sails fill and our boat gathers some cliffs to that mysterious wreck. speed. Carola teaches us the basics, from Finally, we decide to explore beneath the Out on nautical terminology to how to set sail. And we surface of Lake Constance, underwater on a learn another lesson. Although Lake Constance scuba diving course. It takes time to put on the water, is big, it doesn’t go on forever. Eventually, we the gear: the wetsuit, dive mask, snorkel and stress have to turn around. As we return to base, there scuba tanks. After practising in shallow water, is time to chat. “Once you are on the water, the I become bolder. I find myself staring at a pile stress of everyday life fades away,” says Carola, of shells 15 ft/5 m down. “Lake Constance is levels drop who used to sail competitively. She reckons that often underestimated,” says Maren Moldon Three views of Lake Constance Lake Constance is perfect for all levels of expe- from the Tauchteam Bodensee diving school. “It at once” ’s Wassersportzentrum (sailing) and rience, from beginners to advanced sailors, who has excellent waters for diving, both varied and ’s Tauchteam Bodensee (diving) Carola, relish the challenge of frequent and rapid chan- demanding.” There are also spectacular under- sailing instructor offer taster courses. Zeppelin flights take off from From a Zeppelin airship, high above Lake ges of wind and weather. As for the scenery, water cliffs and a sunken , plus Friedrichshafen. Constance, you can see four countries and there are so many lovely harbours and towns, giant pike and catfish. Close to the shore, even the snow-tipped Alps plus orchards and spectacular mountains. No the sticklebacks look special to beginners like More information: www.bodensee.eu/en

46 47 ÜBERLINGEN STATE GARDEN SHOW LAKE CONSTANCE On , the focal point is the p a l a c e Überlingen’s green side Gardening is a popular passion in Lake Constance’s town. Expect more gardens at the 2020 Garden Show – even floating on the lake

Island in the sun Lake Constance has two contrasting islands – both are historic and beautiful. Mainau is famous for its flowers and trees, while Reichenau is known for its ancient monastery

Left and top: Above: Handsome The Uferpark old houses on the lake in Überlingen ainau Island is like a jewel floating on Lake Constance. A few minutes northeast of , this tiny island is only two miles/ three km in circumference, but it truly is a botanical paradise, with its own devoted ake Constance has a mild, sunny climate that is per- with a new conservatory and floating gardens on the lake; team of gardeners. The flower-filled park and fect for gardening. No wonder Landesgartenschau an old church, with floral exhibitions changing every 14 days; Mgardens, which are open all year round, are centred on the 2020, Baden-Württemberg’s annual state garden a special rose garden and viewing tower; the Menzinger Gar- 18th-century Baroque palace and a collection of magnificent show, takes place in Überlingen, from 23 April to 18 dens with allotments, viticulture and wonderful views of the trees, many of which are more than 150 years old. From mid- October. Although this is the first time the festival lake and the old town. As for the wide-ranging programme March to late October, the Mainau Flower Year progresses has been held in the Lake Constance region, this of events, many will be held on the tempo-rary lake stage in week by week from thousands of tulips to hundreds of Lhistoric town is known for its lovingly cultivated gardens and the Uferpark. The whole of Überlingen has been revamped, rhododendrons, followed by fragrant roses, perennials and historic parks with ancient trees. with a new waterfront promenade and newly planted flower dahlias. In summer, palm trees and citrus shrubs provide a The town’s municipal garden was created back in 1875. beds. In 2020, this city marks its 1,250th anniversary: what Mediterranean feel. There is also one of Germany’s largest Get to the island by boat or car, then take time to walk or This is now rated as one of the most important botanical a way to celebrate! butterfly houses, a stimulating, specially designed children’s cycle. Islanders are known for growing their own vegetables. attractions in the area. Many of the original trees still stand; adventure playground and an array of good restaurants. Located just west of Konstanz. Mediterranean and exotic plants thrive; the winding paths, Then there is Reichenau. Crossing the causeway to this flowery arbours and rock gardens are soothing. And connec- peaceful monastic island takes you back in time. Only three ting all the town’s green spaces is the Gartenkulturpfad, the miles/five km long, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Reichenau: Garden Culture Trail (2.5 miles/4 km). Along the way there noted for its Benedictine monastery. Founded in 724, it St. Peter and are historic houses, St. Nicholas Minster and the Renaissance More information became one of the great medieval intellectual and cultural Paul Church is More information city hall. Überlingen State Garden Show; centres of Europe. There are also three village churches, 1,000 years old Discover more about Mainau Island at In 2020, the garden show will have several exhibition 23 April to 18 October, 2020 built between the 9th and 12th centuries, as renowned for www.mainau.de/en and Reichenau areas: the new 15-acre/6-hectare Uferpark; the villa gardens www.bodensee.eu/en their early medieval architecture as for their wall paintings. Island at www.bodensee.eu/en

48 49 SLEEPING OUTDOORS

DID YOU SLEEP WELL? Be adventurous, even when you are asleep! In SouthWest Germany, you can snooze in tree houses and tepees or hang out in a tree. Here are six fun places to sleep outdoors RENCHTAL TREEHOUSE HOTEL Vineyard views 1 EUROPA-PARK: CAMP RESORT Perched above the hillside with panoramic views over the vineyards, the four cosy log cabins of the Huber family’s Baumhaus Hotel are near Oberkirch-Bottenau, BLACK FOREST CAMPING Out in the Wild West south of Baden-Baden in the Black Forest. Great for families, individuals or couples. Starting at 120 EUR per night, including a breakfast buffet and a visit to the sauna. The call of the wild www.schwarzwald-baumhaushotel.de. Southeast of Freiburg, Lake is nestled 4 deep in the Black Forest. Here, in a quiet corner of the woods, couples can stay in comfy places that are unusual – and fun! Perhaps in Gisela, an old ski gondola. Or in Alfons, a typical tepee. Prices start at 80 EUR per night. You can also spend the night in your own tent or camper van. www.blackforest-tourism.com/Media/Attraktio- nen/Youth-Campsite-Schluechtseewinkel HOFGUT HOPFENBURG Home, sweet home A5 shepherd’s wagon, tepee, yurt or even a More circus wagon: Hofgut Hopfenburg offers sustainable accommodation with a difference! information Or, stay in your own tent, motorhome or caravan. For unusual and 3 This former farm overlooks orchards and the unique places to Beutenlay Nature Reserve, near Münsingen stay, visit Howdy! If you want to travel back to the Wild West, book and the Swabian Alb Biosphere Centre. www.tourism-bw. in to Europa-Park’s 458-bed Camp Resort near Rust. Located west of Ulm. com SUNNY TREE HOUSES 6 Adventurous mums, dads and kids can sleep in log cabins, ON STILTS tepees or even covered wagons, with comfy bunk beds and mattresses. Eat in the Lake Saloon, and enjoy Sleep in the tree tops 2 action-packed Wild West shows during peak season. This romantic “tree palace” has seven sunny www.europapark.de/en tree houses set high on stilts at the edge of the 6 forest, near the village of Rosenberg. There are HANG OUT TOGETHER no kitchens, but breakfast is brought to you on Stuttgart Rock yourself to sleep request. Listen to the silence; relax on the sun 4 terrace; explore the surrounding countryside. Get up close and personal with the tree tops by sleeping in a suspended tent! Try it near 5 Located northeast of Stuttgart. 3 2 in the Black Forest, northeast of Freiburg. Overnight stays for two include the BADEN- use of a rustic shelter, a sun deck and a basket of local tasty treats. 165 EUR per person. WÜRTTEMBERG

1

50 51 NORTHERN BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG

Here be giants!

With tall sequoias, delicate magnolias and rare pine trees, the 19th-century Exotic Forest was a rich man’s dream. Weinheim’s residents still benefit

Strolling through the Exotic Forest right FABIAN TEUBER DIETMAR DENGER outside the Palace Garden is like explo- ring four continents

52 53 THE NORTHERN REGION

p to 200 ft/60 m tall, the giant trees look as if they can pierce the sky. Through the tree tops, the sun lights up the soft, fibrous bark on the sequoias; their trunks are criss- crossed with deep furrows. They Ubear witness not only to their extraordinary age, but also to the fierce heat and freezing cold, wind, rain, snow and ice that they have withstood over the past 150 years. On a tour of Exotenwald Weinheim, the town’s arboretum of

Exotic trees also grow in the Weinheim Palace Gardens

Giant sequoia cones are huge

He leads visitors through the Exotic Forest, the exotic trees, even the tallest humans feel tiny. Even at 150, sequoias Exotenwald Weinheim. “High up, about 300 ft/ Some sequoias stand alone like guards; others 100 m from the ground, these trees are a bit are grouped together like a battalion. will live for another like people,” he says with a chuckle. “They start In 1872, Christian Freiherr von Berckheim off tall and skinny, and then put on weight in old was the owner of Weinheim Castle, the palace 150 years” age.” The giant sequoias are the magnet that is now the city hall. In those days, it was for visitors to Weinheim, but there are also Dietmar Spicker, local guide equally rare and important exotic trees, such as unusual pine and cedar species, gingko and magnolia. Since 1955, Exotenwald has been owned by the state, but Berckheim’s dream is still being pursued, with 400 new tree How did giant sequoias get fashionable for the aristocracy to plant a few species planted so far. The 19th-century to Germany? exotic trees in their gardens. Berckheim went aristocrat spent a fortune; no wonder he liked one step further: he wanted not just a wood, to ride around in a horse-drawn carriage to The first German sequoias were grown from the but a veritable forest. Time and again, he ex- admire his extraordinary collection. Today, fabled “ seeds”. In 1864, King William I of panded it. Today, there are more than 150 tree everyone can enjoy his vision. The forest is free Württemberg ordered a few thousand seeds from and shrub species from around the Mediter- to enter and, with wide paths, offers barrier- America and had them cultivated in Stuttgart’s ranean and , from America and Asia, all free access to all. Wilhelma botanical gardens. From there, the saplings growing on about 150 acres/60 hectares. The were distributed to forests and royal parks through­- trees were often planted in clumps, sometimes out his kingdom. as many as 50 sequoias together. These giants are undoubtedly the most impressive trees, as well as the oldest, but as local guide Dietmar Spicker points out: “In fact, they are still only More information Often only one half-grown; they have only reached half their Entry is free to the Palace Gardens and the example of a height. It will take another 150 years until they Exotic Forest, with its marked hiking trails. For species survives; are fully grown!” detailed information, visit www.weinheim.de but it is still impressive

54 55 ORCHARDS

When the meadow orchards bloom

n spring, nowhere is more beautiful than plums, are harvested by hand. Older trees pro- Swabia’s Streuobstwiese, wild “meadow duce rather tart, tannin-rich fruit, perfect for orchards”, when the fruit trees blossom. pressing in traditional ways. One example is In the 19th century, rural communities Jörg Geiger’s company in Schlat, near Göppin- shared orchards; their animals grazed un- gen. He makes sparkling fruit wines, as well as der the fruit trees and they harvested the alcohol-free drinks, using old varieties of apples Iapples, pears and Zwetschgen (like tiny plums). and pears. Additional flavours come from herbs Today, with 1.5 million trees, the countryside and berries, such as juniper and elderflower, between the Swabian Alb and the River Neckar from these unique “meadow orchards”. has changed little. This is one of Europe’s largest remaining untamed ecological treasures and it is studded with gnarled trees bearing an- cient varieties of fruit. The best way to see this Special tip landscape? Follow the hiking and nature trails THE REAL TASTE that criss-cross the region. Spring, when the trees are in bloom, is a OF FRUIT great time to visit – but so is autumn. Unusual Book tasting tours to see how Jörg herbs and berries, as well as apples, pears and Geiger makes fruit wines at www.manufaktur-joerg-geiger.de

For more on hiking and biking in “meadow orchard country”, visit www.schwaebischealb.de/

These are Zwetschgen, rather like damsons. The intense flavour of these plums is perfect for fruit brandies and jams

Spring fever: Bratbirne, an unusual pear variety, in full bloom

56 57 WILD ABOUT FOOD

NATURALLY DELICIOUS Gin made with fresh spruce tips? 1 Soft drinks made from dandelion TANNENLIEBE leaves? Here are some tasty treats Tart and lemony with wild and natural flavours, all The Black Forest is known for distilling (see Needle Gin), but in , southeast of made in SouthWest Germany Freiburg, the Rogg family brewery has created Tannenliebe, a non-alcoholic soft drink made from handpicked silver fir tree tips. www.blackforest-tourism.com/Media/ Attraktionen/Rogg-Brewery

ENZKLÖSTERLE Stuttgart THE BLUEBERRY VILLAGE 2 5 6 4 NEEDLE GIN BADEN- Blue gold Spruce up your drink WÜRTTEMBERG 5 3 1 7 Southeast of Baden-Baden, the Black Forest village of Enzklösterle is surrounded by pine forests – offering ideal conditions for growing blueberries. And locals know 3 4 the best ways to prepare these delicious wild berries. No wonder Enzklösterle has ROYAL GAME RITA GOLLER’S been nicknamed Heidelbeerdorf, Blueberry Village. www.enzkloesterle.de/en/ Organic SNAIL FARM from the Slow food

forest Rita Goller has been breeding edible Meat doesn’t get snails for 16 years more organic than and some 30,000 game from the forest. live in her garden in 6 On their private Münsingen, west of estates, the aristo- Ulm. After spending cratic Hohenzollern four years in luscious CAMPFIRE COOKING 7 2 family uses profes- greenery, they land on sional hunters to cull the plates of regional Cook on an open fire wild boar, roe deer gourmet restaurants. More Cooking on an open fire takes skill. Today’s craft gins come in a wide variety of flavours – and and fallow deer. Buy The snails are also Katja Suntoyo and Robert Falkenberg aromas. For example, fresh shoots of the common spruce add game at the shop sold in tins as a snail information STUGGI SCHORLE have outdoor cookery classes for a unique Black Forest twist to Needle Black Forest Dry Gin. on the Wildpark sausage (6.50 EUR For food, drink and Anyone for dandelion? groups at the Faunus Wilderness Produced by the Bimmerle spirit distillery in -Mösbach, Josefslust estate, for 200 g). cookery tips, visit School, with lots of tips for your Christoph Schützinger’s Stuggi Schorle south of Baden-Baden. It costs 20 EUR a bottle. , south www.tourism-bw. next outdoor holiday. Located in sparkling fruit drinks offer a taste of SouthWest www.needle-gin.com/en of Stuttgart, or order com/things-to- , northwest of Stuttgart. online at www.. Germany. Apple or blackcurrant? Rhubarb or do/wine-dine hohenzollern.com quince? There is even dandelion – using juice from the roots and leaves!

58 59 URBAN JUNGLE

1 The clean green River Go wild Neckar The River Neckar provides a green oasis in the heart of the fine old town of Heilbronn. People in the city from all walks of life enjoy spen- ding time here. Getting out on the water is easy: rent a motorboat, Look a lynx in the eye in a safari park, work your muscles on a pedalo or relax in an old quarry, or hike through tall cacti. just drift around on an inflatable boat with its own barbecue and In the following cities, you are never far sound system on board. But you from green urban oases. can also just relax with a coffee on a sandy beach. The beer garden, with its riverside sunba- thing area, is delightful. Sink into a deck chair and take in the views over the Neckar, surrounded by weeping willows and plane trees.

Special tip URBAN PADDLES Take a guided canoe trip on the river to get a different view of the city. www.welcome.heilbronn.de

60 61 URBAN WILDERNESS

On the Bellenkrappen, an arm of the Rhine, Cuckoo Island provides yet ano- ther green escape

during the breeding season. This interlude also storm that have been left lying across the path. allows the vegetation to regenerate. As there Now and then, I catch a glimpse of the Rhine are no embankments here, the Rhine regularly through the bushes. Big chug past, their breaches its banks, helping to foster a species- wakes washing against the gravel banks. From rich alluvial forest. This really is one of a distance, I hear the sound of cranes at work in Germany’s unique locations. the industrial area. But here I am in the peace and quiet, at one with Mother Nature. Here I am, surrounded Crossing a bridge, I reach the northern part of the island: a protected area of forest. Here, by Mother Nature the wilderness is left to its own devices. There is no human intervention. Woodpeckers tap away Untouched by man for decades, the Reissinsel’s at huge old trees, while geese and ducks take an 2 MANNHEIM making. But the island’s beauty persuaded him Some 50 species 250 acres/100 hectares are one of Germany’s afternoon nap on a small of the Rhi­ to leave it to the city as a protected area. breed on the last natural floodplain meadows, providing an ne. Mice rustle in the undergrowth; a small frog The Bird Island island, including important retreat for people, as well as wildlife. jumps across the path. After only a short time & TERESA RICHTER One of Germany’s kingfishers, owls From the car park, it is only a few minutes’ walk here, it is easy to understand why Carl Reiss and geese to reach the entrance to the reserve. Here, I am insisted in his will that the island should be left unique locations greeted by a cheeky squirrel, who is romping exactly as it was. As I leave the forest and circle among the trees, probably looking for a nut. back to the start of my walk, I feel relaxed and f you are lucky enough to work in tourism Today, everyone is grateful to him. His initiative But he scampers off before I can take his photo. refreshed. And I’m thrilled to have discovered (as I do, at the State Tourist Board South­ created a unique retreat, right in the middle of Never mind! No doubt I will see more animals! so much that is wild – right in the middle of West Germany), you can explore the places, the city – it is free! The surrounding landscape I follow the path, a circular trail, whose 3 miles/ busy Mannheim. sights and landscapes that you are promo­ may be industrial, but locals can escape from 4.3 km take in a lush green meadow with ting. Time and again, I am fascinated by the urban hustle and bustle and enjoy a true gnarled old fruit trees. Apparently, these are the sheer variety on offer in SouthWest wilderness, with a diverse community of part of the largest wild orchards on the Upper IGermany. On a recent visit to Mannheim, the animals and plants, including some 50 species Rhine plain. There are even wild grapes growing third largest city in the state, I discovered a of birds that breed on the island, including king­ here, the ancestors of the modern wine grape! very special place: the Reissinsel, Reiss Island. fishers, owls and geese. But humans can only Leaving the sprawling meadow behind, I More information This is a nature reserve, named after Carl Reiss. visit between July and February. For four months soon realise that this place really is extraordi­ Detailed information about the island and other A century ago, the industrialist bought land on in spring, from March until the end of June, the nary. Turning onto the unpaved road that leads green spaces is available at a bend in the Rhine to extract clay for brick- island is closed to the public to protect birds through the forest, I find trees overturned by a www.visit-mannheim.de/en

62 63 URBAN WILDERNESS

6 STUTTGART Travertine Park

7 HEIDELBERG Wolfsbrunnen Park

According to legend, a ate a fortune-teller here at Stone-cutting equipment and railway tracks Elector Frederick II’s former hunting lodge. That was recall the old days, when travertine was centuries ago; today, this leafy retreat, east of the city quarried here. Now children enjoy the play- centre, is admired for its greenery, pretty lake and gourmet ground, lizards scamper in the sun, and the restaurant. www.heidelberg-marketing.de/en views over the River Neckar to 3 BADEN-BADEN are glorious. A great example of recycling Surrounded by nature the past! www.stuttgart.de/en

The ruins of Hohenbaden Castle stand on a rocky cliff high above this sophisticated spa town. To see them, hike up through the forest. It 5 ULM 9 2 takes about an hour and the trail can be steep, Stand-up paddleboarding 7 Talk to the but you will be rewarded with a terrific panorama of Baden-Baden, the Black Forest and the Rhine 4 1 animals plain. visit.baden-baden.de/en Stuttgart 9 3 6

BADEN­ 5 WRTTEBERG 8

Pforzheim’s wildlife park, 4 KARLSRUHE south of the city, is fun for The Botanical families. Deer and mountain Get out onto the water. Leave everyday life behind you. 8 FREIBURG sheep, yaks, lynx and otters Gardens See the green side of Ulm on a stand-up paddleboard on Gardening in the city are among some 400 ani- the Danube. The bonus? Great views of the cities of Ulm mals, some of which can be and Neu-Ulm (opposite), plus the world’s tallest church Freiburg is one of Europe’s most environmen- petted and even fed. Older Tropical flowers; rare citrus, cinnamon and spire, the old city walls and the Metzgerturm, the so-called More information tally conscious cities, with a host of urban children love the aerial views coffee plants; succulents, such as cacti – “leaning tower of Ulm”. www.tourismus.ulm.de To find out more about South­ gardens. In small plots, such as the Waldgar- of the wild animals on the this is a collection worth seeing. And the West Germany’s green urban ten Wiehre and the WandelGarten Vauban eight high-ropes courses. elegance of the 19th-century architecture spaces, visit www.tourism-bw. (photo), locals work together to grow and www.pforzheim.de/en adds to the experience. www.karlsruhe- com/destinations/cities harvest vegetables. visit.freiburg.de/en erleben.de/en

64 65 hochschwarzwald.de

Rejuvenate in the Black Forest Highlands Service & contact Relax, revitalise and indulge yourself in the breathtaking natural landscape of the Black Forest Highlands. The region Planning a holiday? Get the latest tips by following us on FREE BROCHURES is ideally located, not far from and Instagram, Facebook and Twitter. Check out all the information and close to the beautiful City of Freiburg. and download brochures at www.tourism-bw.com Download or order our special themed brochures on, for example: Walkers and hikers can take advantage of the clean and castles, palaces and gardens; beer refreshing mountain air in this high altitude region. Connois- and food; traditions; luxury hotels. seurs can enjoy sampling the award-winning local cuisine Find them under Plan Your Trip at or recuperate in one of the thermal spas. Take a time-out for CONTACT www.tourism-bw.com State Tourist Board SouthWest Germany yourself in the Black Forest Highlands. Esslingerstraße 8, 70182 Stuttgart DIGITAL Tel. +49 (0) 711/ 23 85 80 Tips for the trip? Inspiring photos [email protected] for your holiday? Find great ideas www.tourism-bw.com on our social media channels: #visitbawu #naturebawu facebook.com/wirsindsueden instagram.com/visitbawu twitter.com/visitbawu

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Lengler (3); Photo Gallery: TMBW (2), Microadventures: Luftzeiten, Sven Teresa Richter (2), Baden-Baden Kur Gregor Lengler (2), Rainer Medefindt Lorenz, Michael Schmitt, Franz-Josef H. & Tourismus GmbH, Gerhard Kassner, Süden: The lifestyle magazine Fotografie (2); Family Adventures: Andorf, Tourismus GmbH Nördlicher Ulm/Neu-Ulm Touristik GmbH, Stuttgart- for SouthWest Germany 2020 Erlebnispark Tripsdrill, , Schwarzwald, Dr. Qingwei Chen; Marketing GmbH, Tobias Schwerdt, Dietmar Denger, Clemens Emmler, Northern Black Forest: Alex Kijak (2), Wandelgarten Vauban Freiburg/Angie Publisher: Tourismus Marketing GmbH Europa-Park; Natural Highs: TMBW/ Ulrike Klumpp, Stefan Kuhn; Schmidt, Wildpark Pforzheim; Orchards: Baden-Württemberg (SouthWest Mende, TMBW/Richter, Jochen Beglau, On safari: AdobeStock/Wolfgang www.dieth.com, Manufaktur Jörg Geiger, Germany Tourism), 8 Esslinger Strasse, bloomimages , Sonne und Kruck, Achim Mende, Urzeit Weide Angela Hammer; Wild about food: 70182 Stuttgart, Germany Wolken/Jana Zieseniß + Globusliebe/ GbR, Bildmontage: Katharina Kreger- tannenliebe.de, Bimmerle KG, Enzklös- Responsible for content: Andreas Julia Lassner, Stefan Kuhn; The Swabian Schwerdt, Remie Bakker, Wilfried terle/Walter Kallfass, Rainer Herzog, Braun; Project management: Natalie Alb: Gregor Lengler, Fabian Teuber, Rosendahl, Dietmar Denger; Lake Faunus-Wildnisschule; Service: Achim Dietl, Anna Wagner, Janina Wittmann Oliver Vogel, Roland Beck, Donauberg­ Constance: Paul Munzinger, Fabian Mende Concept, editorial, graphics: land GmbH/Thomas Bichler, Stadt Teuber, TMBW/Achim Mende, Dietmar Printing: C. Maurer Druck und Cross Media Redaktion: Joachim Ehingen, Gregor Lengler; Black Forest Denger (2); Überlingen/Lake Cons- Verlag GmbH & Co. KG, Geislingen Negwer, Christiane Würtenberger, National Park: Gregor Lengler, Anna tance: Landesgartenschau Überlingen an der Steige Thomas Zwicker, Anne Schüssler, Felix Carneiro; Unspoiled nature: Thomas 2020 GmbH (2), Winfried Heinze; Negwer, Fabian Teuber, Anna Carneiro, Stephan, Dietmar Denger, Naturpark Internationale Bodensee Tourismus Christian Calmano, Schröder, Südschwarzwald, Dominik Rüede, GmbH/Achim Mende, TMBW/Achim Art direction: Maja Schollmeyer www. Charly Ebel, Dietmar Gretter, Naturpark Mende; Sleeping outdoors: TMBW/ cross-media-redaktion.de Obere Donau; The Black Forrest: Richter, Naturträume, Europa-Park, Gregor Lengler; Great gorges: Sonne und Wolken/Jana Zieseniß + Translation/proofreading: Kathy Alexander Kijak, Schluchtensteig Globusliebe/Julia Lassner, Hofgut Arnold & Paul Wade, oneword GmbH Schwarzwald, Jülg/ TI Sasbachwalden, Hopfenburg, Baumpalast; Northern Photo credits: Cover: Gregor Lengler; Schwarzwald Tourismus/Chris Keller; Baden-Württemberg: Dietmar Denger; With friendly support from Contents: Dietmar Denger, Gregor Sasbachwalden: TMBW/Duepper; Urban jungle: Roland Schweizer (2), the Ministry of Justice and for Europe

66

192x248_HSWald_Englisch_Sueden_2019.indd 1 08.11.19 16:26 WELCOME TO THE CITY OF FASHION

Who doesn’t love a little luxury? OUTLETCITY METZINGEN is all about high-end shopping in style without the designer price tags. Discounts of up to 70 %* make luxury affordable for everyone and the flagship outlet stores of premium and luxury brands are amongst the hottest spots for crowds of shopaholics from all around the world.

*Compared to the former manufacturers’ recommended retail price, if there is any. outletcity.com