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Stuttgart & the Black Forest ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Stuttgart & the Black Forest Why Go? Stuttgart .......................216 f one word could sum up ermany’s southwesternmost Swabian Alps ...............226 region, it would be inventive. Baden-rttemberg gave the Tübingen .......................226 world relativity Einstein, iescher and the astro- Ulm ...............................231 nomical telescope epler. t was here that Bosch invented The Black Forest ..........235 the spark plug ottlieb aimler, the gas engine and Count Ferdinand, the eppelin. nd where would we be without Baden-Baden ...............235 black forest gateau, cuckoo clocks and the ultimate beer Freiburg .......................248 food, the pretel Triberg ..........................258 Beyond the high-tech, urbanite pleasures of st-century Lake Constance ...........262 Stuttgart lies a region still ripe for discovery. On the city Konstanz ......................263 fringes, country lanes roll to vineyards and lordly baroue palaces, spa towns and castles steeped in medieval myth. Swinging south, the Black Forest chaa in erman Best Places to Eat looks every inch the rimm fairy-tale blueprint. ills rise » Irma la Douce (p221) steep and wooded above church steeples, half-timbered vil- lages and a crochet of tightly woven valleys. t is a perfectly » Schwarzwaldstube (p245) etched picture of sylvan beauty, a landscape refreshingly » Zur Forelle (p234) oblivious to time and trends. » Rizzi (p239) » Rindenmühle (p261) When to Go Snow dusts the heights from January to late February and Best Places to pre-Lenten Fasnacht brings carnival shenanigans to the re- Stay gion’s towns and villages. Enjoy cool forest hikes, riverside bike rides, splashy fun on Lake Constance and open-air festi- » Parkhotel Wehrle (p258) vals galore during summer. From late September to October » Hotel Schiefes Haus the golden autumn days can be spent rambling in woods, (p233) mushrooming and snuggling up in Black Forest farmhouses. » Die Halde (p254) » Hotel am Schloss (p228) » Villa Barleben (p266) 214 HAVE YOUR Outdoor Adventures CAKE Oh, we have nothing but fresh air, plenty of forest and peace True, there’s more to and uiet, the self-effacing locals tell you with a shrug. One the Black Forest than whiff of that cold piny air and a glimpse of those emerald for- gateau but try saying ested hills and you’ll be itching to grab your walking boots or that after a cherry- cross-country skis and strike into the wilderness of the Black chocolate-cream fest Forest. reat waterways like Lake Constance and the anube at Café Schäfer in invite languid days spent eploring by bike or kayak. Triberg, guardian of the Baden-rttemberg practically coined the word wander- original 1915 recipe. lust’ as the founding father of the Schwarwaldverein www. schwarwaldverein.de, whose well-marked paths criss- cross the darkest depths of the Black Forest. Need to Know » Many museums close on DRIVE TIME Mondays. » Family in tow? Ferien- The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) may be a forest but it wohnungen (holiday apart- sure is a big ´un and you’ll need a car to reach its out-of- ments) are often a better the-way corners. deal than hotels. Tourist Schwarzwald-Hochstrasse (Black Forest Hwy; offices have lists. www.schwarzwaldhochstrasse.de) Swoon over views of S TUTT the mist-wreathed Vosges Mountains, heather-flecked » Save on train fares with forests and glacial lakes like Mummelsee on this high- the good-value Baden- altitude road, meandering 60km from Baden-Baden to g Württemberg Ticket. ART Freudenstadt on the B500. Badische Weinstrasse (Baden Wine Rd; www. & Spa Time deutsche-weinstrassen.de) From Baden-Baden to Lör- T rach, this 160km route corkscrews through the vineyards he B » Friedrichsbad (p238) A of Ortenau, Kaiserstuhl, Tuniberg and Markgräflerland. palatial 19th-century spa Schwarzwald-Tälerstrasse (Black Forest Valley LA for a Roman-style scrub-a- Rd) What scenery! Twisting 100km from Rastatt to Al- ck F dub-dub. pirsbach, this road dips into the forest-cloaked hills and » Sanitas Spa (p258) half-timbered towns of the Murg and Kinzig valleys. OR Broad forest views, few Deutsche Uhrenstrasse (German Clock Rd; www. e crowds, luscious treat- ST deutscheuhrenstrasse.de) A 320km loop starting in ments. Bliss. Villingen-Schwenningen that revolves around the story » Badeparadies (p257) of clockmaking in the Black Forest. Stops include Furt- Palms, lagoons and Carib- wangen and cuckoo-crazy Triberg. bean cocktails lift rainy-day Grüne Strasse (Green Rd; www.gruene-strasse. moods. de) Linking the Black Forest with the Rhine Valley and French Vosges, this 160km route zips through Kirch- zarten, Freiburg, Breisach, Colmar and Münster. Resources » Schwarzwaldverein (www.schwarzwaldverein. de) Discount Passes » Farmstays (www.bauern Check into almost any hotel in Baden-rttemberg, pay hofurlaub.de) the nominal ta holiday ta and you automatically » Baden-Württemberg receive the money-saving Gästekarte uest Card, often Tourism (www.tourism-bw. entitling you to free entry to local swimming pools and at- com) tractions, plus hefty discounts on everything from bike hire and spas to ski lifts and boat trips. ersions with the Konus » Local news and weather symbol offer free use of public transport. (www.swr.de) ost tourist offices in the Black Forest sell the three-day SchwarzwaldCard for admission to around attrac- tions. For details, visit www.blackforest-tourism.com..
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