Stuttgart & the Black Forest

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Why Go? Stuttgart ...... 216 f one word could sum up ermany’s southwesternmost Swabian Alps ...... 226 region, it would be inventive. Baden-rttemberg gave the Tübingen ...... 226 world relativity Einstein, iescher and the astro- Ulm ...... 231 nomical telescope epler. t was here that Bosch invented The Black Forest ...... 235 the spark plug ottlieb aimler, the gas engine and Count Ferdinand, the eppelin. nd where would we be without Baden-Baden ...... 235 black forest gateau, cuckoo clocks and the ultimate beer Freiburg ...... 248 food, the pretel Triberg ...... 258 Beyond the high-tech, urbanite pleasures of st-century Lake Constance ...... 262 Stuttgart lies a region still ripe for discovery. On the city Konstanz ...... 263 fringes, country lanes roll to vineyards and lordly baroue palaces, spa towns and castles steeped in medieval myth. Swinging south, the Black Forest chaa in erman Best Places to Eat looks every inch the rimm fairy-tale blueprint. ills rise » Irma la Douce (p221) steep and wooded above church steeples, half-timbered villages and a crochet of tightly woven valleys. t is a perfectly » Schwarzwaldstube (p245) etched picture of sylvan beauty, a landscape refreshingly » Zur Forelle (p234) oblivious to time and trends. » Rizzi (p239) » Rindenmühle (p261) When to Go Snow dusts the heights from January to late February and Best Places to pre-Lenten Fasnacht brings carnival shenanigans to the re- Stay gion’s towns and villages. Enjoy cool forest hikes, riverside bike rides, splashy fun on Lake Constance and open-air festi- » Parkhotel Wehrle (p258) vals galore during summer. From late September to October » Hotel Schiefes Haus the golden autumn days can be spent rambling in woods, (p233) mushrooming and snuggling up in Black Forest farmhouses. » Die Halde (p254) » Hotel am Schloss (p228) » Villa Barleben (p266)

- - - - Konus Gästekarte uest Card, often holiday ta and you automatically ta (Black Forest Hwy; (Black Forest Schwarzwald-Hochstrasse www. Rd; Wine (Baden Weinstrasse Badische Valley (Black Forest Schwarzwald-Tälerstrasse www. Clock Rd; (German Uhrenstrasse Deutsche www.gruene-strasse. Rd; (Green Grüne Strasse The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) may be a forest but it forest be a may (Black Forest) The Schwarzwald out-of- its reach to need a car is a big ´un and you’ll sure corners. the-way of views over Swoon www.schwarzwaldhochstrasse.de) heather-flecked Mountains, Vosges the mist-wreathed high- on this Mummelsee like glacial lakes and forests to Baden-Baden 60km from meandering altitude road, on the B500. Freudenstadt Lör to Baden-Baden From deutsche-weinstrassen.de) the vineyards through corkscrews route this 160km rach, and Markgräflerland. Tuniberg Kaiserstuhl, Ortenau, of Al- to Rastatt from 100km Twisting What scenery! Rd) hills and the forest-cloaked into dips this road pirsbach, Kinzig valleys. and the Murg of towns half-timbered in loop starting 320km A deutscheuhrenstrasse.de) the story around that revolves Villingen-Schwenningen include Furt- Stops clockmaking in the Black Forest. of Triberg. and cuckoo-crazy wangen and Valley with the Rhine Linking the Black Forest de) Kirch- through zips route this 160km Vosges, French and Münster. Colmar Breisach, Freiburg, zarten, DRIVE TIME ost ost tourist offices in the Black sell Forest the three-day - wander word the coined practically Baden-rttemberg tractions, plus hefty discounts on everything from bike hire the with ersions trips. boat and lifts ski to spas and details, visit www.blackforest-tourism.com. tions. For Discount Passes Check into almost any hotel in the Baden-rttemberg, nominal pay receive the money-saving entitling you to free entry to local swimming pools and at free use of public transport.symbol offer SchwarzwaldCard for admission to around attrac Outdoor Adventures Oh, we have nothing but fresh plenty air, of forest and peace and uiet, the self-effacing locals tell you with a shrug. Oneof whiff that cold piny air and a glimpse of those emerald for ested hills and you’ll be itching to grab your walking boots or cross-country skis and strike into the wilderness of the Black reat waterways Forest. like Lake Constance and the anube or kayak. spent eploring by bike languid days invite www. Schwarwaldverein the of father founding the as lust’ schwarwaldverein.de, whose well-marked depths of the Black Forest. cross the darkest paths criss- - - -

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True, there’s more to to more there’s True, than the Black Forest try but saying gateau a cherry- that after fest chocolate-cream in Schäfer at Café the of guardian Triberg, recipe. original 1915 HAVE YOUR HAVE CAKE Local Local news and weather Baden-Württemberg Baden-Württemberg Schwarzwaldverein Farmstays Badeparadies Sanitas Sanitas Spa Friedrichsbad Save Save on train with fares Many Many museums close on in Family tow? » » » » » » » » » » Resources

Spa Time Need toNeed Know (www.swr.de) com) Tourism (www.schwarzwaldverein. de) hofurlaub.de) Palms, lagoons and Palms, Carib bean cocktails lift rainy-day moods. Broad forest views, few views, Broad forest luscious treat crowds, palatial palatial 19th-century spa for a scrub-a- Roman-style dub-dub. Bliss. ments. the good-value the Baden- good-value Ticket. Württemberg Mondays. wohnungen ments) ments) are often a better deal than Tourist hotels. offices have lists.

gART & The BLAck FOReST

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