Edited by David Moore with Neville Blech Wine Behind the Label Th E Award Winning Guide to the World’S Leading Wine Producers and Their Wines

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Edited by David Moore with Neville Blech Wine behind the label Th e award winning guide to the world’s leading wine producers and their wines

7th edition Fully revised and enlarged

‘For me, by far the best of the wine guides’ Steven Spurrier THE HISTORY OF THE GUIDE

riginal authors David Moore and Philip Williamson have been involved Owith assessing high quality wine for the past 20 years. Both have travelled widely and been exposed to hands-on winemaking from Bordeaux to Barossa. During the past 10 years both writers contributed to a diverse range of wine information media. They were involved with the London based Vinopolis Wine Experience in its inception, ensuring its authenticity as a major Wine tourist attraction. In 2000-2001 they were the principal wine judges for Wine Today Europe for the New York Times.

From 2001 the pair pooled their substantial wine tasting expertise to set about creating a wine guide of unprecedented depth and scope. The result, the critically acclaimed Wine behind the label (first edition 2003) covers all the world's top wine producers, and their wines, in a truly global context, in a way no other wine book has before. They both actively sought out new producers, travelling extensively to visit them at their wineries or meet them at the most important of the world's major wine fairs.

The pair gained wide recognition resulting in three major awards for Wine behind the label in 2006 and 2007, the Louis Roederer Wine Guide of the Year, Glenfiddich Drink Book of the Year and the André Simon Drink Book of the Year. Crucially, they have had no commercial links with wine producers in order to maintain their independent stance and unreserved critical analysis.

Philip has now left and David has taken the overall role as editor for the whole project. Neville Blech, who has provided assistance since 2005 has been a contributor to this 7th edition. He has written a number of new winery profiles in both California and Liguria in North-West Italy and has upated the sections on Burgundy, Beaujolais, Piedmont and North-West Italy as well as North-East Italy. It is anticipated that David and Neville will be joined by other distinguished wine writers in the future Wine behind the label The ultimate guide to the world’s leading wine producers and their wines 7th edition Edited by David Moore with Neville Blech

‘An incredibly in-depth and addictively readable survey of wines of quality from around the world with intelligent tasting notes and informative background to the producers, plus stockists and UK prices. For me, by far the best of the wine guides’ Steven Spurrier, Decanter Magazine

‘I’m a fan.’ Hugh Johnson ‘This is Robert Parker territory but succinct and cheaper’ Joanna Simon, Sunday Times ‘With its championing of authenticity of origin, gifted winemakers, smaller producers, organic and biodynamic winemaking, as well as its wealth of detail, this could well become the annual guide by which all others are judged.’ Fine Wine Magazine ‘... a guide that’s immediately established itself as more or less indispensable.’ Peter McCombie MW, Restaurant Magazine I heartily recommend this book as a thorough independent overview of the world’s best wine estates’ Tom Cannavan, wine-pages.com ‘As essential to the sommelier as their corkscrew’ Paul Dwyer, BBC Radio 5 Live and BBC Radio Scotland ‘If you are passionate about your wine and pay serious attention to sampling the world’s finest bottles then this book should be on your shelf... I would strongly recommend this excellent guide’ Dr Edward Fitzgerald, Oxford University Wine Society ‘...a tremendously useful and comprehensive reference work...(it) is bang up to date. Any wine nut will have a lot of fun with this book’ Jamie Goode, wineanorak.com

BTL Publishing Limited www.winebehindthelabel.com First published in 2003 This 7th edition published in 2009 Published by BTL Publishing Ltd 8 Jonathan Court Windmill Road London W4 1SA Tel +44 (0)208 995 3050 E-mail: [email protected]

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilised in any form by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without prior permission from the publisher.

Publisher David C Tennant

Whilst every care has been taken in the preparation of this guide, the publishers and authors cannot accept responsibility of any kind for consequences arising from reliance upon information contained in it. Contents

Introduction 6 NORTH AMERICA Awards 7 California North Coast 585 How to use this guide 9 Napa & Carneros 605 Central Coast & Sierra Foothills 635 Oregon & Washington 663 EUROPE Rest of North America 679 FRANCE 10 Bordeaux 13 SOUTH AMERICA 680 Médoc, Graves & Sauternes 19 ARGENTINA 682 St Emilion, Pomerol & other Bordeaux 37 CHILE 688 Burgundy 59 AUSTRALASIA Chablis & Yonne 60 AUSTRALIA 697 Côte d’Or & Côte Chalonnaise 71 South Australia 698 Mâconnais 119 Victoria & Tasmania 727 Beaujolais 129 New South Wales & Queensland 743 Alsace 135 Western Australia 751 Champagne 149 Loire Valley 159 NEW ZEALAND 763 Jura & Savoie 183 Rhône Valley 189 AFRICA Northern Rhône 194 SOUTH AFRICA 783 Southern Rhône 205 Languedoc & Roussillon 231 Grapes 807 Provence & Corsica 271 Glossary 816 South-West France 283

ITALY 293 Piedmont & North-West Italy 296 North-East Italy 329 Tuscany 355 Central Italy 401 Southern Italy & Islands 423

SPAIN (incl. Sherry) 451

PORTUGAL (incl. Port & Madeira) 505

GERMANY 529

AUSTRIA 557

OTHER EUROPE, N AFRICA & MIDDLE EAST 573 5 Introduction

Our concept Really useful stuff Wine behind the label was first conceived as an ambitious attempt to This guide does contain a lot of information about producers and their produce an authoritative single volume guide to producers of quality wines. In this edition over 3,100 producers are covered in depth. wines from around the world. We believe we are succeeding in what we Furthermore over 18,000 wines are rated and price coded. While some of set out to achieve but will always view it as a work in progress, continuing world’s finest wines can be hard to get hold of in many instances there is a first to respond to an ever expanding quality spectrum as well as looking for point of contact that will sell direct by mail-order or over the Internet. In better ways to present our findings. We remain com-mitted to providing addtion there are a number of features that will help you find the both depth and criticism about quality wines whatever their provenance and information you want more quickly. The lists of producers by appellation from as many quality wine producers as possible. It is a guide for enthusiasts or region (at the end of each section’s introduction) is an alternative to or would-be enthusiasts, not for those who can’t detect any differences or using the Index, and an excellent way to find or familiarize yourself with don’t care too yet a reference that is accessible to the novice and learned producers from a favourite area. Where possible there are also single page alike. The 7th edition sees a further significant expansion in our reach, map inserts for quick reference to less well-known regions or appellations. For uncovering many more producers - both from the classic regions but also the many readers who only have time to dip in and out of the book we would reflecting the quality being obtained in places that don’t make the encourage you to use the ‘Author’s Choice’ lists at the end of each section. headlines. As ever, it is still far from exhaustive but hopefully there’s plenty These contain at least one wine from most of a region’s best producers and to sustain your interest. For those new to Wine behind the label we have make a useful alternative starting point to discovering new wines. In particular repeated below what you can expect to find as well as some of our the ‘Value for money’ lists highlight some of the best buys. Given that exciting thoughts about wine and winemaking. new producers are emerging all the time we have included a ‘Work in progress’ Behind the label list covering those we will be assessing for the next edition. Tasting, ratings, and assessing producers The industrial mentality which has given us brilliant cars and computers doesn’t have a place in high quality wine (or food) production. An Our Quality Rating (see How to Use this guide) is intended to give a truer essential difference between a high production brand and one produced on assessment of wine quality than a vintage dependent point score. It is nearly a more human scale is the personal effort and commitment that the family always based on scores from a minimum of two recent vintages. Wine shows or individuals who make it have put into it. We therefore highlight and competitions encourage the production of wines of flattering first individuality and character over more boring standardized production. impressions but don’t always reward those that show at their best with age. We also attempt to bring the producer a little closer to whoever is drinking Nor do they address the implications of the vintage characteristics. Rather their wine so that some inkling of their philosophy and effort might than a snapshot, consensual tasting mentality we believe in tasting wines enrich the enjoyment the wine brings. We lend our support particularly again and again (both blind and non-blind) in order to gain a better to small producers and talented winemakers, and wherever we see honesty understanding of a wine’s style and when it should be drunk. A rating and integrity but every quality wine is considered on its merits. A small combined with an understanding of the style is the key to discovering the producer, no matter how earnest or sincere, will not make good wine if he best wines, and that means those you will most enjoy. Before choosing a or she doesn’t manage the vineyards well and employ sound winemaking bottle for immediate consumption always ask yourself which wine works practice. Equally, spending exorbitant sums on PR and marketing doesn’t best now, reflects my mood, personality, or that of my friends or family? always mean the wine in the bottle is poor – though it is likely given the What flavours do I want? How much flavour? By buying wine for money spent that it could be better value. cellaring it will be possible to contrast different vintages of the same wine. Winemaking and a wine’s origins Alternatively from a case of the same wine the gradual development and increasing maturity of a specific vintage can be assessed over a decade or We’ve tried to provide information about where quality and character come more. from - the most relevant aspects of winemaking, viticulture and vineyard site Conclusion that contribute to what’s in your glass. There is also information on the extent of a wine’s manipulation such as fining or filtration, and whether organic or Think of this book as a catalogue to a vast array of vinous riches. Choose biodynamic principles are employed. In the last decade we have witnessed with the certainty of trying wines of dependable quality that our labours the increasing acceptance of the importance of terroir in tandem with a and experience provide through our rating system. If you haven’t tasted continued trend to more vineyard specific wine production. Where great Austrian Grüner Veltliner or Californian Syrah then try a three star wine is a combination of several small parcels it is our hope that more example from at least two or three profiled producers. Buy the best new producers will provide details of the individual plots that contribute to the reds from the Languedoc-Roussillon, Southern Italy, Spain or Portugal. In wine’s character. In some cases, celebrated labels are now no longer based on the past five years Germany has made better Riesling than ever before but the top vineyard sites that brought early acclaim (whether a Bordeaux classed contrast these with those from Alsace, Austria or Australia. Discover a growth or elsewhere in Europe or the new world). We are also keeping tabs on wealth of fine Pinot Noir from Central Otago, Victoria & Tasmania or some on some of the most famous names where the pursuit of profit, lacklustre North America. Alternatively seek out new names from the classic regions direction or a change of ownership may have compromised quality. On the such as Burgundy, Bordeaux or the Rhône, Tuscany or Piedmont, Napa or other hand we point out where a new, often more highly-trained, generation South Australia. Most of all we implore you to taste more widely. 6 has made a positive impact or where outside investment has resulted in a new lease of life. How to use this guide

The major part of this guide is split into regional or country sections. Within Ratings: USE HOW TO each one you will find an Introduction including, where possible, Vintage ★ a wine of good quality, not just sound but of good fruit and with information. This is followed by a list of the producers (by region or some character. appellation) that have been profiled within the A-Z that makes up the bulk of ★★ a wine with more depth, interest and concentration, usually with the section. At the end of the A-Z of producers, other quality wines tasted from some aging potential the region are included in Other Wines of Note. The wines listed here are only ★★★ a very good, even fine, wine. In the case of many reds repaying those of sufficient quality that have been tasted - in some instances other good lengthy cellaring. wines from the same producer exist. Work in Progress includes (often new) ★★★★ estates or producers that we will be assessing over the next 12 months. At the a wine of very high quality, among the very best even in a top very end of each section under Author’s Choice we have added lists of wines appellation or region. that are a personal selection but are also often themed by a shared style or grape ★★★★★ outstanding quality, potentially a classic. variety and so should aid navigation. For Individual A-Z entries see the sample ✪✪✪✪✪ super 5 stars, restricted to the true classics, out-and-out world class. entry below. The use of CAPS (eg Louis JADOT) indicates the existence of a cross-referenced entry that can be found from the Index. ✫ white stars are used to show a superior wine at a given rating Vintages Charts: We have rated as many of a producer's wines as possible, but in some instances In those sections where vintages have the greatest significance, Vintage Charts the wines are too new or too scarce to have yet received a rating. Such wines are are also provided (as is text on individual years for the classic wines of Bordeaux, covered in the text only. Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany and Port). Specific styles of wine are given an Tasting notes and scores: overall vintage rating between one and five stars for individual years. In some It is not in the style of this guide to provide tasting notes for individual vintages instances it is not possible to provide a balanced judgement on the vintage until along with their scores. However this information will be provided by our nearer the wines’ release (with Brunello di Montalcino for example). These have website over the coming year and we intend to give readers the opportunity to been designated NYR (not yet rated). When to drink the wines of a given receive the scores for currently available vintages by electronic means. Given vintage is a largely subjective, personal judgement and can depend as much on that scores are vintage specific, they sometimes exceed or fall short of the rating mood or context but the letter (A-D) following the ratings gives a general that is based on repeated tastings. (also see ‘Tasting, Ratings, and assessing indication of their likely development: producers’ in the Introduction) A - wines to Anticipate, not ready for drinking Prices: B - wines that can be Broached, but with much more to give A code is provided which represents an estimated retail price bracket and it is C - wines to Consume, at or near their best based on the standard 75cl bottle size. Price codes for those wines produced D - wines likely to be in Decline, past their best only in 1.5 litre (magnums), 50 cl (half litre) or 37.5 cl (half bottle) formats have been given 75cl equivalents. A half bottle costing £8.95/$16.00 for A-Z Order: instance will have a price code of £D. The order of the A-Z entries is based on the name they are most commonly referred to and they appear as they are written but with priority to surnames. £A: less than £5:00 ($8.00) £E: £20 - 30 ($32 - 48) 'Domaine' is ignored but 'Château', 'Castello', 'Quinta' etc are respected as is £B: £5 - 10 ($8 - $16) £F: £30 - 50 ($48 - 80) the definite article when implicitly part of the name (eg Il Poggione appears £C: £10 - 15 ($16 - 24) £G: £50 - 75 ($80 - 120) under 'I'). The only exception to these principles is in Bordeaux where the £D: £15 - 20 ($24 - 32) £H: £75 or more ($120 or more) name of the château or estate takes precedent. The entries follow this simple ‘all you need to know’ format

Visiting Producer Wine region We have listed in most entries telephone and fax numbers for those readers who wish to visit producers. It is always advisable to call ahead because in many cases BRYANT FAMILY Napa Valley Owner’s appointments need to be booked. It is also worth noting that many small Bryant family 1567 Sage Canyon Road, St Helena, CA94574 name and producers are not open to visitors. Tel: 314 231-8066 address Ownership: With production of just over a 1,000 cases the Bryant Cabernet has become Ownership is also given throughout and wherever this appears in bold it refers one of a handful of blue-chip California examples of the variety alongside to a corporate owner rather than an individual or individuals. Obviously such illustrious names as ARAUJO, COLGIN, GRACE FAMILY, HARLAN and Individually contact with a corporate owner shouldn't be assumed to be possible via the SCREAMING EAGLE. The property is located in the Pritchard Hill sector of researched winery's address that follows it. the Napa, close to CHAPPELLET and the Bryants evidently achieve much entry Symbols: more from the area than their neighbours. The vineyards benefit from cooling breezes channelled directly from Lake Hennessey on the eastern ● red wine H white wine J rosé wine slopes of the valley... >> indented entries indicate a new producer profile ● Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley✪✪✪✪✪ £H Estimated price bracket

Red, white or rosé Quality rating indicator 9 Spain

While for years the quality of Spanish wine in the more established regions Costa Brava is Catalunya, home to a number of diverse wine regions and with SPAIN and DOs had been acceptable it could also have fairly been said that the its own vast DO which is a source of some top reds in particular. Right up real potential in the country remained untapped. However, the past half- close to the French border a few fine, traditional reds are made in the decade or so has seen dramatic change both in fine-wine production and in Empordà-Costa Brava DO as well as some late-harvest wines similar to those lesser regions. There are new-wave Riojas and an abundance of great reds found in France’s Roussillon region. Some good red and white is produced from the Costers del Segre DO and a vast array of indigenous and from Castilla y León, but other, smaller regions like Priorat have also been international grapes are planted. To the immediate east are the vineyards of providing some remarkable and striking wines in recent years. Further Conca de Barberá, cooled by altitude and a source of some good Chardonnay south, in the great centre of the country, relaxation of the regulations and Pinot Noir, but most of the fruit is sold on. Just inland from the coast and governing irrigation and a desire to harness the potential of the best hillside south-west of Barcelona are the vineyards of Penedès, established in a global sites as well as some fine, old bush-vine plantings of regional varieties has sense by the considerable efforts of Miguel Torres. Some fine reds and whites brought increasing change. It remains depressing, however that despite all are produced, again from a mix of local and international varieties but much of this there is still a sizeable amount of sometimes very mediocre wine being the output is relatively pedestrian. Interestingly the odd low-volume, garage- produced in almost all the established regions. style red is appearing too. Similar styles are also being produced in the small DO of Pla de Bages, just to the north. Penedès is also the centre of the vast Cava DO. These sparkling wines are made by the traditional method from a North-East Spain combination of local Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo as well as Chardonnay País Vasco is the Spanish Basque country and home to two tiny DOs with and Pinot Noir. Some very well-crafted vintage and non-vintage bottlings are barely 125ha between them. Both are close to the coast between Bilbao and produced but overall the quality tends to be sound at best. Many operations San Sebastien. Getariako Txakolina is the more western of the two and are very substantial and automation in the cellars is common. Cava at the slightly larger than Bizkaiko Txakolina. The best are dry, quite steely whites lower levels can often display a marked rubbery character. based on Hondarribi Zuri. The north-western sector of the Rioja DO stretches into País Vasco and includes some of the best of the region’s sites in the Rioja Immediately to the west of Penedès are the vineyards of Tarragona, which has Alavesa. The Rioja wine zone spreads out of the administrative region of Rioja, two superior sub-regions, Montsant DO, which surrounds the small, very its borders stretching into Navarra to its north-east and Castilla y León to the high-quality region of Priorat which, like Rioja is a DO Ca. Tarragona is west. The wine area is split into three sub-regions: Alavesa, Alta and Baja. planted to a range of varieties and fortified wines are still produced here. It is Tempranillo performs well in the limestone soils of the Alavesa, which is the reds, though, that excel and none more so than the suberb old-vine moderated by cooling breezes, as is the Alta. The latter, though, has more clay plantings of Garnacha and Cariñena. The best can easily rival top-quality in the soil, particularly suitable for Garnacha, which dominates the plantings Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The reds in Priorat are the wines with the greatest in the hotter Baja sub-region. Graciano is also planted and makes an important potential. They include a fascinatingly variable blend comprising Garnacha, impact on many blends as well as providing the odd striking varietal example. Cariñena, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Pinot Noir. The vineyards Most wines are a blend of the regions and, while generally the fruit of the are ideally planted in sparse, finely drained, stony soils and the climate is warm Alavesa is the finest, there are outposts of quality in all three. Whites are but not excessively so. The red wines of Terra Alta, to the south and inland of dominated by Viura with some Garnacha Blanca and Malvasia but few are of Montsant are also worth considering. the quality of the reds. Of equal importance is the approach of the bodegas. North-West Spain The area has some very substantial producers but quality remains variable. The original ageing classifications of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva are still in The wines of north-western Spain are produced in Castilla y León and Galicia. place but varietal labels are becoming far more commonplace and many fine Immediately to the west of Rioja is Ribera del Duero which, along with new-wave premium wines are being produced, which are generally vinified exceptional examples in Rioja and Priorat, produces most of the finest reds in using French rather than American oak, many with the malolactic the country. The historic Vega Sicilia bodega is based here and top reds are fermentation in barrel. Some, it has to be said, are very pricey as well. produced in and around the region as Vinos de Mesa and Vinos de la Tierra (V.T.) as well as DO. While the greatest Ribera del Duero wines are both Navarra shares the native Tempranillo, Garnacha and Viura with Rioja but magnificent and pricey, too many remain depressingly mediocre with baked also has considerable plantings of the international varieties; Cabernet and often dried out fruit and hard tannins. The wines are based on Tinto Fino Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay. Some impressive wines are (Tempranillo) but may also include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec produced but one often feels price is a key in the producer’s approach and in the blend. there should be more excitement than there is. To the east and stretching far towards the south of Navarra are the arid plains of Aragón. Bulk wine is To the north-west is the small DO of Cigales, where some good, structured generally the order of the day but there are four DOs worth considering: in reds are made, and to the west the white-wine DO of Rueda. Interesting Campo de Borja and Somontano some very good reds and the occasional barrel-fermented and single vineyard wines from both Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay and indeed Gewürztraminer stand out. Good, earthy and the local Verdejo are produced. The latter can be responsible for some very characterful reds are also produced in Calatayud and Cariñena. Significant old striking and potentially ageworthy whites. Immediately west of Rueda and also bush-vine Garnacha is a very important resource in both DO’s. centred on the Duero river towards Zamora and Portugal is the warm red-wine area of Toro. The vineyard area here has always promised much but it is only Running south from the Pyrenees and along the Mediterranean coast on the relatively recently that wines of real depth have begun to emerge, some world- 451 Spain

class. A local strain of Tempranillo, Tinto de Toro, is the mainstay of blends Some of the best potential for reds is to the east of the area, nearer the coast in but Garnacha is also permitted and old vines contribute much to quality. A the DO’s of Valencia, Manchuela and Utiel-Requena. The indigenous Bobal number of very impressive wines are also produced under the VT Castilla y and Monastrell are both proving very successful and fine Syrah, Malbec and León classification. Look out also for the recently established DOs of Arribes Garnacha is also being made. Just to the south in the DOs of Yecla, Jumilla and Tierra del Vino de Zamora. In the far west of the Castilla y León region is and Bullas some impressive and complex reds are being produced. A number the small, visually striking DO of Bierzo which now produces both easy- of joint ventures with overseas expertise are being developed and some of the drinking and truly exciting reds as well as a little white. wines are not only impressive for their quality but notable for their high price as well. The V.T. El Terrerazu is a fine source of Tempranillo as well as Bobal. Virtually adjoining Bierzo but in fact in Galicia is Valdeorras. Reds are Some good fortified wine, Fondillon is produced from Monastrell at Alicante,

SPAIN produced, like those in Bierzo, from Mencía but of particular note are the as are some fine, sweet Moscatels. In the past decade some very well made reds whites produced mainly from the unusual, indigenous Godello. The best are and decent well-crafted whites have also been made here. floral, ripe and respond well to handling in oak. Some attractive, fruity as well as more structured whites are also produced in Ribeiro but the greatest Southern Spain and Islands concentration of bodegas are found in the coastal vineyards of Rías Baixas. The south is fortified-wine country, most specifically the sherries of Jerez y Their strikingly aromatic whites are generally best enjoyed young but the odd Manzanilla. Andalucía is also home to the fortified wines of Montilla-Moriles example is successfully barrel-fermented and will keep in the short to medium and Málaga. Most of the former are relatively ordinary but there are some term, not dissimilar in this respect to more structured examples from Condrieu exceptional wines from old soleras. The traditional wines of Málaga are very in the northern Rhône. rare, a blend of sweet wine and grape juice, some of which is fortified. The Central and South East Spain sherry industry is centred around the towns of Jerez and Sanlúcar de Barrameda to the north of Cádiz. The wines are all raised in a solera system Over the past decade much has changed in the central and southern reaches of which is maintained by fresh young wines. Fino sherry in Jerez is very similar Spain. Identifying cooler mesoclimates and harnessing the sheer quality of to Manzanilla at Sanlúcar. Both are best drunk on release for their fresh, salty some of the old bush vines and outcrops of well-drained soils are among the character imbued by a period under flor yeast. Manzanilla Pasada is a nutty, keys. The introduction of irrigation over the last decade has also given this arid aged wine, having been exposed to flor influence, as is Amontillado. Oloroso area greater scope. Although this is more relevant in the production of bulk will have no flor character at all, having been immediately fortified above 18 wines, of which a considerable volume are produced here. This is particularly degrees of alcohol. Palo Cortado is halfway in style between Fino and the case with wines made from the lower and more fertile central plains. Amontillado. Rich and concentrated fortified Moscatel is also produced in the The nations capital city is home to the small DO of Vinos de Madrid. The area as well as Pedro Ximènez. A recent development to ensure quality and vineyards stretch over a large area both to the immediate south-east of Madrid character is a new set of classifications, VOS and VORS. VOS stands for Very and some considerable distance to the west and include three sub-regions. Old Sherry and the wine must have an average age of at least 20 years. VORS Tempranillo is the most important red variety and Cabernet Sauvignon and stands for Very Old Rare Sherry and the average age of the wine must be a Syrah are also permitted. Expect Garnacha also to assume greater importance minimum of 30 years. Many of the best examples are older than this, although in the future. Whites include Chardonnay, Albillo and the local Malvar. The it is not a requirement for the classification to be used. reds in particular can be very good and are more akin to a Ribera del Duero Over recent vintages the other major development in the south has been the than a Rioja. A little further to the south-west of Madrid is the DO of emergence of some very impressive light wines both red and white. In the V.T. Mentrida. This is mainly red wine country. Garnacha and Tempranillo are Cádiz impressive and structured reds are being produced by one winery in successful here as are the French interlopers, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, particular, Huerta de Albala and from an area thought of simply as fortified Syrah and Petit Verdot. wine country. A number of sherry bodegas are also taking advantage of the The vast central plains and particularly La Mancha are not generally associated classification, mainly for whites. To the east at Sierras de Málaga the high with wines of any substance, this region after all is notable for its considerable altitude vineyards inland are now a source of some very impressive Bordeaux number of co-ops. Things are beginning to change, though, and new and style reds. Yet further still to the east are the vineyards of the V.T. Contraviesa- interesting wines are emerging, particularly from bodegas with higher altitude Alpujarra, home to the highest vineyards in Spain, a source of intense and vineyards and better sites. A strict control of yields is also a key factor. mineral-scented whites and structured, characterful reds. Inland of Almeria is However, unfortunately for the DO, many impressive emerging wineries prefer the V.T. Ribera del Andrax, where altitude also plays a part in producing to take the V.T. Castilla because of the perception of quality from La Mancha. balanced, rich and ripe reds. In the west of the region there are two impressive Vinos de Pago (single As yet few wines have emerged on overseas markets from the either the property) DOs. Dominio de Valdepusa has been established for some time, Balearics or the Canaries. However a number of particularly impressive reds are Dehesa de Carrizal is more recent. At Dehesa del Carrizal the focus is on produced in Mallorca from the DO’s of Binissalem Mallorca and Pla i French varieties, reds as well as Chardonnay, at Dominio de Valdepusa there is Llevant, as well as the V.T.’s of Formentera and Iles Balears. A number of a little Graciano as well. A number of La Mancha bodegas also have holdings varieties both red and white are proving successful, none more so than the in the new small DO of Uclés, to the south-west of Madrid. Some rich and indigenous red Callet. The Canaries would also seem to have genuine potential well made reds are now appearing. Valdepeñas used to be considered for whites with its sparse volcanic soils and fortifieds are also produced. somewhat of a beacon amongst the other wine regions of the area but nothing 452 of real consequence has emerged recently. Spain

A-Z of producers by region SPAIN

GRATAVINUM Bierzo Rueda North-East Spain MAS ALTA DESCENDIENTES DE J. PALACIOS BELONDRADE Y LURTON MAS DOIX BODEGAS ESTEFANIA CRIANZA CASTILLA LA VIEJA Calatayud MAS D’EN GIL GANCEDO HERMANOS DEL VILLAR BODEGAS ATECA MAS MARTINET MENCIA DE-DOS BODEGAS F LURTON BODEGA NIÑO JESÚS MAS PERINET PAIXAR NAIA VIÑA SILA BODEGAS SAN ALEJANDRO MELIS BODEGAS PEIQUE PALACIO DE BORNOS MERUM PRIORATI Campo de Borja PITTACUM JOSÉ PARIENTE ALVARO PALACIOS BODEGAS ALTO MONCAYO DOMINIO DE TARES SITIOS DE BODEGA PARTIDA BELLVISOS BODEGAS BORSAO TERNA BODEGAS PASANAU GERMANS Cigales BODEGAS VIDAL SOBLECHERO CELLER DEL PONT Catalunya YLLERA CELLERS RIPOLL SANS BODEGAS CÉSAR PRÍNCIPE CLOS D’AGON EMETERIO FERNÁNDEZ ROTLLÁN Í TORRA Tierra del Vino de Zamora CELLER JOAN SANGENIS LEZCANO LACALLE Costers del Segre TRASLANZAS VIÑAS DEL CÉNIT CELLER DE CANTONELLA JOAN SIMO CASTELL DEL REMEI TRIO INFERNAL Rías Baixas To ro TOMAS CUSINE CELLER VALL LLACH VINYA DEL VUIT AGRO DE BAZAN DOMINIO DEL BENDITO Empordà LAGAR DE FORNELOS BIENVENIDA DE VINOS Rioja BODEGAS AS LAXAS BODEGAS BURDIGALA CELLER MARTI FABRA LUSCO CARO DORUM MASIA SERRA BODEGAS LUIS ALEGRE FINCA ALLENDE GERARDO MENDEZ DOS VICTORIAS Getariako Txakolina BODEGAS ALTANZA VIÑA NORA EGUREN ARTEVINO PALACIO DE FEFINANES BODEGAS ESTANCIA PIEDRA AMEZTOI ARTADI PAZO SAN MAURO LIBERALIA ENOLOGICA PAZO DE SEÑORÁNS BODEGAS MAGREZ ESPAGNE Montsant CONTINO EGUREN TERRAS GAUDA MATARREDONDA BODEGAS ACUSTIC BODEGAS ESCUDERO ADEGAS VALMINOR MAURODOS CELLERS CAN BLAU BODEGAS EXOPTO VINUM TERRAE BODEGA NUMANTHIA TERMES EUROPVIN FALSET FERNÁNDEZ DE PIÉROLA PINTIA VENUS LA UNIVERSAL HACIENDAS ESPANA Ribeiro QUINTA DE LA QUIETUD IJALBA COTO DE GOMARIZ REJADORADA Navarra IZADI EMILIO ROJO TORESANAS ALZANIA MARQUÉS DE LA CONCORDIA SAMEIRAS VETUS ARTAZU MARQUÉS DE MURRIETA VINA DE MARTIN MAGANA MARQUÉS DE RISCAL VINA MEIN Valdeorras MARQUÉS DE VARGAS BODEGAS GODEVAL Otazu BODEGA ABEL MENDOZA Ribera del Duero RAFAEL PALACIOS BODEGA OTAZU MUGA AALTO ORBEN ALIÓN V.T. Castilla y León Penedès BODEGAS OSTATU ALONSO DEL YERRO ABADÍA RETUERTA ALEMANY I CORRIO PAISAJES Y VIÑEDOS ARROCAL BODEGA LA COLEGIADA CAN RAFOLS DELS CAUS PALACIOS REMONDO ISMAEL ARROYO DEHESA DE CADOZOS GRAMONA PUJANZA ARZUAGA NAVARRO DEHESA LA GRANJA HERETAT VALL-VENTÓS REMELLURI BODEGAS ASTER DOMINIO DOS TARES HACIENDA L’HEREU REMÍREZ DE GANUZA BADEN NUMAN LEDA VINAS VIEJAS JEAN LEÓN LA RIOJA ALTA JM BURGOS MAURO PARÉS BALTÁ RODA FELIX CALLEJO QUINTA SARDONIA TORRES TELMO RODRÍGUEZ CONDADO DE HAZA VALSANZO BENJAMIN ROMEO BODEGAS CONDE ZERBEROS Pla de Bages SENORIO DE SAN VICENTE DOMINIO DE ATAUTA ABADAL SIERRA CANTABRIA DOMINIO DE PINGUS Central/Southern Spain TORRE DE OÑA ALEJANDRO FERNÃNDEZ Priorat BODEGAS VALSACRO O. FOURNIER Alicante ARDEVOL VINEDOS DE PAGANOS HORNILLOS BALLESTEROS BERNABÉ NAVARRO BURGOS PORTA ITURRIA-MORAL EL SEQUE CELLERS CAPAFONS-OSSÓ Tarragona MONTEBACO E MENDOZA CIMS DE PORRERA CELLER DE CAPÇANES PAGO DE CARRAOVEJAS BODEGAS SIERRA SALINAS CLOS DEL LLOPS PAGO DE LOS CAPELLANES PÉREZ PASCUAS CLOS FIGUERAS Terra Alta Almansa CLOS I TERASSES CELLER VIÑOS PINOL PESQUERA CLOS MOGADOR BODEGA RODERO ALMANSENAS CLOS NELIN North-West Spain TORREMILANOS COSTERS DEL SIURANA VIZCARRA-RAMOS Bullas DOMINI DE LA CARTOIXA Arribes VEGA SICILIA BODEGA BALCONA CELLER DE L’ENCASTELL BODEGAS RIBERA DE PELAZAS FINCA VILLACRECES BODEGAS LAVIA BODEGAS MONASTRELL CELLERS J.M. FUENTES HACIENDAS DURIUS 453 Spain

Dehesa del Carrizal VINOS JEROMIN EL REGAJAL DEHESA DEL CARRIZAL Dominio de Valdepusa Yecla BODEGAS CASTAÑO PAGOS DE FAMILIA SEÑORÍO DE BARAHONDA Jerez y Manzanilla V.T. Cadiz BARBADILLO HUERTA DE ALBALA FERNANDO DE CASTILLA GONZÃLEZ BYASS V.T. Castilla HIDALGO BODEGAS ERCAVIO SPAIN LA BOTA DE FINCA CORONADO EMILIO LUSTAU 1 Rías Baixas BODEGAS TRADICIÓN FINCA LA ESTACADA VALDESPINO PAGO DEL AMA 2 Ribeiro PAGO DE VALLEGARCIA 3 Valdeorras BODEGA TIKALO Jumilla 4 Bierzo CASA CASTILLO V.T. Castilla y León BODEGAS EL NIDO 5 Toro BODEGAS OLIVARES ZERBEROS 6 Cigales 7 Rueda La Mancha V.T. Contraviesa-Alpujarra 8 Ribera del Duero BODEGA EL VINCULO BARRANCO OSCURO BODEGA PAGO FLORENTINO DOMINIO BUENAVISTA 9 Bizkaiko Txakolina BODEGAS VOLVER V.T. El Terrerazu 10 Getariako Txakolina 11 Rioja Málaga/Sierras de Málaga MUSTIGUILLO BODEGAS MÁLAGA VIRGEN 12 Navarra JORGE ORDONEZ V.T. Formentera 13 Campo de Borja RAMOS-PAUL CAP DE BARBARIA 14 Somontano JUAN MANUEL VETAS MARTIN V.T. Iles Balears 15 Costers del Segre Manchuela SON VELL/4 KILOS 16 Empordà-Costa Brava ALTO LANDON AN NEGRA 17 Conca de Barberá BODEGAS PONCE BODEGUES RIBAS 18 Penedès FINCA SANDOVAL V d T Ribera del Andarax 19 Tarragona Mentrida BODEGAS ÁNFORA ENIX 20 Priorat ARRAYAN Vinos de Mesa Andalucia 21 Montsant CANOPY 22 Terra Alta JIMENEZ LANDI PRINCIPE A. DE HOHENLOHE 23 Utiel-Requena Utiel-Requena 24 Valencia CASA DEL PINAR 25 Alicante DOMINIO DE ARANLEON ALVAREZ NOLTING 26 Yecla 27 Jumilla Valencia 28 Almansa RAFAEL CAMBRA 29 Valdepeñas CELLER DEL ROURE HERETAT DE TAVERNERS 30 La Mancha BODEGAS LOS FRAILES 31 Vinos de Madrid PAGO CASA GRAN 32 Montilla-Moriles Vinos de Madrid 33 Málaga RICARDO BENITO 34 Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, QUBEL Manzanilla Sanlúcar de BODEGAS TAGONIUS Barrameda

454 Spain SPAIN

ASTURIAS Bilbao La Coruña 9 CANTABRIA FRANCE GALICIA PAÍS 10 VASCO NAVARRA MIÑO 1 4 Logroño 11 2 3 12 16 1 LA RIOJA 14 CASTILLA Y LEÓN CATALUÑA 6 13 Valladolid 8 EBRO 15 17 DUERO 5 Peñafiel Zaragoza 7 20 18 Barcelona ARAGÓN 19 22 21

31 Madrid TAJO PORTUGAL 31 TAJO VALENCIA

CASTILLA-LA MANCHA EXTREMADURA 23 24 Valencia GUADIANA 30 28 24 25 29 27 26 25

GUADALQUIVIR MURCIA

ANDALUCÍA 32 Sevilla

34 33 Jerez de la Frontera Malaga Cádiz

455 North-East Spain

Spanish vintages Cabernet Franc and Tempranillo blend which gets a short period of oak Although there is a reasonably uniform climate in most of Spain’s more southerly ageing. Merlot 5 comes from five different clones of the variety, all of which regions, the chart below should provide a good guide as to what to expect with are vinified separately. The Reserva 3.9 is sourced from a single vineyard and the premium red-wine areas. The maturity guide applies to top wines. Spains blends mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with a little Syrah. Rich, dark fruited, fine reds are increasingly ageworthy and this as well as a move towards earlier almost jammy with supple tannins. The top wine the Selecció, like the 3.9 is releases requires the top crus to be cellared after release despite highly unfiltered and blends both Cabernets with Syrah. 14 months oak ageing sophisticated modern winemaking in the best examples. Dry whites generally provides a complex minty, elegant red. Also look out for red Crianza and should be drunk on or shortly after release. The great fortified wines will be ready Reserva. (DM) to drink on release. ● Pla de Bages Seleccio★★★✫ £D SPAIN ● Pla de Bages 3.9 Reserva★★★ £C ● Pla de Bages Merlot 5★★★ £C Spanish vintage chart ● Pla de Bages Cabernet Franc/Tempranillo★★✫ £B H Pla de Bages Picapoll★★✫ £B Rioja Ribera del Duero Priorat Top wines Yop wines Yop wines BODEGAS ACUSTIC Montsant 2008 ★★★✫ A ★★★✫ A ★★★✫ A Albert Jane Ubeda c/ St. Lluis, 12, 43775 Marca (Tarragona) Tel: 629 472988 Fax: 977 678149 2007 ★★★✫ A ★★★ A ★★★✫ A Small, excellent artisan winery producing barely more than 2,000 cases a year 2006 ★★★★ A ★★★✫ A ★★★★ A from old-vine Garnacha and Cariñena (known locally as Samsó). A 2005 ★★★★ A ★★★★ A ★★★★ A combination of vines up to 75 years old and finely drained stony, sandy soils provides fruit of persuasive intensity. The Acústic is a Garnacha/Cariñena 2004 ★★★★ A ★★★★ A ★★★★ A blend aged in one and two year old barrels. Dark and spicy with a marked 2003 ★★★★ B ★★★★✫ A ★★★★ A mineral edge. Rounder, more opulent is the Braó, meaning brave, with a sweet 2002 ★★★✫ B ★★★✫ B ★★★✫ B edge from both the concentration of the fruit and around 30% new wood. You should expect both to develop well in bottle. The wines, not racked, are 2001 ★★★★✫ B ★★★★✫ A ★★★★ B bottled unfined and unfiltered. (DM) ★★★ ★★★ ★★★✫ 2000 B B B ● Montsant Braó★★★★ £D ● Montsant Acústic★★★✫ £C 1999 ★★★✫ B ★★★✫ B ★★★✫ B ALEMANY I CORRIO Penedès 1998 ★★★ C ★★★✫ B ★★★★✫ A L Corrio & Joan & Irene Alemany Melió, 78, 08720 Vilafranca del Penedès 1997 ★★★ C ★★★ C ★★★ C Tel: 938 172587 Fax: 938 172587 In comparison to many other premium Penedès operations this is veritably 1996 ★★★ C ★★★★ B ★★★★ B tiny, a warehouse winery. A very passable second wine, Pas Curtei, has been 1995 ★★★★ C ★★★★ C ★★★★ C added to the Sot Lefriec to help ensure the integrity and quality of the top 1994 ★★★★✫ C ★★★★ C ★★★★✫ C wine. Both Laurent Corrio and Irene Alemany studied enology in Burgundy and the partners now have 8ha of their own vineyards planted to old-vine 1993 ★★★ C ★★✫ C ★★★✫ C Cariñena (60 years) and 20-year-old Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Both wines are blends of the three varieties, with Merlot dominating and are handled as naturally as possible by gravity and inert gas and bottled unfined and unfiltered. (DM) ● Penedès Sot Lefriec★★★★ £F ● Penedès Pas Curtei★★✫ £C A-Z of producers BODEGAS LUIS ALEGRE Rioja www.bodegasluisalegre.com Bodegas Luis Alegre Ctra. Navaridas, s/n, 01300 Laguardia (Alava) North-East Spain Tel: 945 600089 Fax: 945 600729 This impressive medium sized bodega, although originally founded in 1968 was purchased in the late 1990s by a group of industrialists, bringing the ABADAL Pla de Bages www.abadal.net resources and considerable investment to produce a range of wines of a Celler Masies d’Avinyo 08279 Santa Maria d’Horta d’Avinyo (Barcelona) uniformally impressive standard. There are around 30 ha of fully owned Tel: 938 757525 Fax: 938 748326 vineyards and viticultural input is given to their external sources as well. A key producer with 45 ha under vine from this small DO on the borders of Winemaking expertise is provided by Alexandra Schmedes and the team from Penedes. For the reds in particular a similar line up of French varieties is an Bodegas ERCAVIO and a new winery has been completed with ultra modern important element of the mix as it is in the neighbouring DO. It is rare vinification equipment. Grape selection is done in the vineyard and micro- though in Penedes to find reds as richly textured as those here. As well as a vinifications can be done for individual parcels. The entry level wines are barrel handled Chardonnay, there is an interesting white Picapoll from a local immediately approachable, coming from younger vines. These include a 456 variety, full of ripe floral fruit and good acidity. Simplest of the reds is the Rosado de Lágrima and a Blanco Joven from Tempranillo and Viura North-East Spain

respectively as well as a Tinto Joven red produced with carbonic maceration kept low, green pruning is practiced and the fruit is entirely hand harvested. In SPAIN which blends a Garnacha and Viura with 90% Tempranillo. The white citrus the winery vinification follows traditional lines with fermentation of the reds in scented Fermentado en Barrica has a little Malvasia as well as Viura and comes stainless steel and malolactic in large Allier oak vats. The wines are then aged in from 40 year old vines. The Crianza benefits from 15% Graciano adding some a mix of new and older oak with French accounting for 85% with some structure and complexity to the style. The Reserva similarly blends Graciano, American and Russian casks also used. There is a soft juicy rosado and the with a little Mazuelo and Garnacha. The Vendimmia Seleccionada is Capitoso is an approachable semi crianza style red. The Lealtanza reds are dominated by old bush vine Tempranillo and offers real intensity and depth. made in a traditional style but the wines fruit is always to the fore and not The top wine, Pontac is a fuller, rounder more modern style of Rioja. Blended overwhelmed by oak. The Reserva Selección is also bottled under the Lealtanza from Tempranillo (95%) and Graciano, it comes from the best parcels and is label and is a fresher more approachable red being aged for just 12 months in both fermented and aged in wood with malolactic in barrel. (DM) bottle after cask ageing in comparison to the Gran Reserva which is held back ● Rioja Pontac★★★★ £E ● Rioja Vendimia Seleccionada★★★★ £D three years. The Reserva Especial is richer and fuller and comes from a ● Rioja Reserva★★★✫ £C ● Rioja Crianza★★✫ £B selection of very old Tempranillo. Pride of place though goes to the two ● Rioja Tinto Joven★★ £B H Rioja Fermentado en Barrica★★★ £C Artistas Españoles wines. The Reserva Dali sees 12 months in new French oak, the Miro 18. Both are rich and sumptuous with a real old-vine complexity and FINCA ALLENDE Rioja www.finca-allende.com dimension. (DM) Miguel Angel de Gregorio Pl. Ibarra 1, Briones, 26330 La Rioja ● Artistas Españoles Reserva Dalí★★★★★ £G Tel: 941 322301 Fax: 941 322302 Rioja ● Rioja Artistas Españoles Reserva Miró★★★★★ £G One of the very best producers in Rioja. Most of the fruit comes from their ● Rioja Reserva Especial★★★★ £F ● Rioja Selección Especial★★★✫ £E own vineyards in the Rioja Alta although some other growers are also used. ● Rioja Lealtanza Gran Reserva★★✫ £E ● Rioja Lealtanza Reserva★★ £E Impressive Rioja Blanco, blended from Viura and Malvasia is fermented and ● Rioja Lealtanza Crianza★★★ £C ● Rioja Capitoso★★ £B aged for a year in French oak. As well as the approacheable Rioja Tinto there J Rioja Lealtanza★✫ £B are two other very concentrated and complex reds. Calvario is Tempranillo with a bit of Garnacha and Graciano and comes from a single vineyard planted BODEGAS ALTO MONCAYO Campo de Borja in 1945. The richly dark-fruited varietal Graciano was produced for the first Oro Wines group 50546 Bulbuente (Zaragoza) time with the 2004 vintage. The top wine, the pricey Aurus from 65-year-old Tel: 976 867116 Fax: 916 160246 vines, is unfiltered with a rich, concentrated and supple texture. Both very A newly established bodega moving wine quality and indeed the price complex and harmonious, it will age gracefully. Paisajes y Viñedos is a joint achievable in this lesser DO to new levels. Barossa Valley veteran Chris venture between Allende and Quim Villa, owner of Barcelona wine merchant Ringland from THREE RIVERS is the winemaker behind the project. His Vila Viniteca. The wines are all from single vineyards and a given number is hand can also be seen in the excellent wines to the south in Jumilla at Bodegas assigned because single vineyard names are forbidden on Rioja labels. VIII is a EL NIDO. The wines are based on old-vine Garnacha and 62 ha is planted in varietal Tempranillo from old vines,VII is from 85 year old Garnacha in the clay and red slate soils with some vines over 90 years old. A continental climate south-eastern stretches of the DO and V comes from a blend of varieties and low summer rainfall, as well as organized canopy management and a green planted in a small vineyard near Logroño. A number of other labels have also harvest ensures optimum ripeness. An artisan approach to winemaking means been produced in recent vintages. Finca Coronado is the families property in open-top fermenters, use of basket presses and bottling without filtration. La Mancha, producing reds of impressive density and character which take the There is a well priced entry level wine, Veraton, the regular Alto Moncayo and regional Vinos de La Tierra classification. Finca Coronado is a blend of a very limited production top label Aquilon which requires a pretty deep Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Merlot and of the pocket. (DM) two more expensive varietals, the Graciano is a touch more sumptuous and ● Campo de Borja Aquilon★★★★★ £G ● ★★★★✫ opulent. (DM) Campo de Borja Alto Moncayo £E ● Campo de Borja Veraton★★★★ £D Finca Allende ● Rioja★★★ £C ● Rioja Gracianoo★★★★✫ £G ● Rioja Calvario★★★★★ £G >> ALZANIA Navarra ● Rioja Aurus✪✪✪✪✪ £H H Rioja Blanco★★★ £C Bodegas y Viñedos Alzania 31210 Los Arcos (Navarra) Paisajes y Viñedos Tel: 607 214279 Fax: 619 222537 ● Rioja VII★★★✫ £E ● Rioja V★★★ £D Undoubtedly, one of the very best producers in Navarra and as such quite Finca Coronado small in scale. Run by José Manuel Echeverria who is a native of Navarra and ● V.T. Castilla Graciano★★★★ £E ● V.T. Castilla Petit Verdot★★★★ £E Maria Sáenx-Olazábal whose origins are in Rioja, between them they have ● V.T. Castilla Finca Coronado★★★✫ £D produced one of the most exciting bodegas in the region. They produce wines of uncompromising interest and character. There is a good dark-fruited and >> BODEGAS ALTANZA Rioja www.bodegasaltanza.com well-priced Crianza which has Tempranillo and Garnacha as well Merlot in its Bodegas Altanza SA 26360 Fuenmayor (Rioja) blend. Finca La Moneda is a touch richer without the crianza ageing Tel: 941 450860 Fax: 941 450804 requirements. 21 del 10 is a rarity, a 100% varietal Syrah, full of dark, spicy A small and comprehensive range of Rioja is produced at Altanza in the centre licorice scented fruit. It is aged for a year in French oak. The top wine of the Rioja Alta. This is a sizeable 320 ha estate with just under 200 ha Selección Privada is a big, rich modern red, a blend of Merlot and Tempranillo planted to vines. Olive oil is also important here and around 70 ha is also with ageing and malolactic in new oak (DM) planted to olive trees. Unusually only Tempranillo is planted and yields are 457 North-East Spain

● Navarra Seleccion Privada★★★★ £F ● Navarra 21 del 10★★★✫ £E >> ARTEVINO Rioja www.grupoartevino.com ● Navarra La Moneda★★★ £D ● Navarra Crianza★★✫ £C Artevino Group 01307 Alava (Alava) Tel: 945 609086 Fax: 945 609261 AMEZTOI Getariako Txakolina This group of bodegas based in Rioja are producing some excellent results not Bodegas Ameztoi SA Barrio Aitzaga. 10, 20808 Getaria only in Rioja but also in Ribera del Duero and Toro. Finca Villacreces is a Tel: 943 140918 Fax: 943 140918 source of some of the best wine in the Ribera DO. The vineyard is planted to Small and impressive producer from this little appellation in the Pais Vasco. Tinto Fino (Tempranillo), Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. As well as the The wines are made from 18ha of the Hondarrabi Zuri variety, native to the regular red an additional and very pricey super-cuvée, Nebro, is also made in region. The naturally cultivated vineyards are carved into steep terraced slopes tiny quantities. At Vetus there are 10 ha under cultivation and the old vines

SPAIN overlooking the Bay of Biscay, where apple and pear trees are as much of a here benefit from being grown at an altitude of up to 700 metres. This is a big feature of the landscape as vines. The wines taste fresh and green with stony, characterful example of the appellation being aged for 12 months in a mix of mineral characters. You are likely to encounter some CO and they should 2 French and American oak. Of the two Rioja bodegas, Izadi’s vineyards are always be drunk as young and fresh as possible. Both offer a zesty fruit planted in the Rioja Alavesa in the foothills of the Sierra Cantabria. The barrel- intensity and depth rarely found in light whites. (DM) fermented white is mainly Viura with a touch of Malvasia, the supple H Getariako Txakolina Ameztoi Txakoli★★ £B approachable Crianza is 100% Tempranillo, the Reserva gains a touch of H Getariako Txakolina Primus Circumdedisti Me★★✫ £C complexity from the addition of a little Graciano and Garnacha. The top two >> ARDEVOL Priorat www.ellerardevol.com reds are a clear step up, Selección benefits from the addition of 20% Graciano, Josep Ardévol C del Pont, 9, 43739 Porrera (Tarragona) Expresion comes from the oldest Tempranillo and is dense and elegant. Orben Tel: 639 853282 Fax: 977 828057 is the newest project of the group and is a modern styled Tempranillo from a The Ardévol family have origins at Porrera stretching back to the 13th Century selection of small parcels. (DM) and had vineyard holdings before phylloxera. More recently though the Bodegas Izadi vineyards were abandoned and hazelnuts grown on the plots. They only ● Rioja Expresion★★★★ £E ● Rioja Selección★★★✫ £E decided to replant their vineyards in 1995 and Garnacha, Syrah, Cabernet ● Rioja Reserva★★★ £D ● Rioja Crianza★★★ £C Sauvignon and Merlot are all cultivated. The second tier wine Coma d’en H Rioja Barrel-Fermented★★✫ £C Romeu is a blend of the varieties and is a relatively forward cherry and berry Bodegas Orben scented red. Ageing is generally for 12 to 14 months in a mix of new and used ● Rioja Orben★★★✫ £E French oak. The Terra d’Hom also includes 40% of Cariñena now in the Finca Villacreces blend and this very much shows through in its dark-fruited, spicy character. ● Ribera del Duero Finca Villacreces Reserva★★★★ £E Again ageing in new and used French oak, generally for a little longer around Vetus 16 months. (DM) ● Toro★★★ £C ● Priorat Terra d’Hom★★★★✫ £F ● Priorat Coma d’en Romeu★★★✫ £D >> BODEGAS ATECA Calatayud ARTADI Rioja Oro Wines group 50220 Ateca (Zaragoza) Cosecheros Alaveses S.A. Ctra. Logroño, Laguardia, 01300 Alava Tel: 661 419719 Tel: 941 600119 Fax: 941 600850 Another small bodega in US based wine importer JORGE ORDÓÑEZ’ Oro This is the brand name of the Cosecheros Alaveses bodega and an impressive Wines group. Other emerging Oro Wines stars include ALTO MONCAYO in range of new-wave Rioja is produced here from 75ha of vineyards. The range Campo de Borja, EL NIDO in Jumilla and CAN BLAU in Montsant not to includes well-crafted regular white and red; the former is barrel-fermented mention the brilliant Malagas produced by Ordóñez himself. Here at Ateca the while the latter sees no oak. A level up are the Viñas de Gain Crianza and the potential shown in producing great value Garnacha from old bush-vines is very more expensive Pagos Viejos Reserva. Both are rich, ripe and concentrated well expressed. The bodega was founded very recently in 2005 and can draw reds. There are also two other very impressive Reservas: Viña El Pisón comes on fruit from around 85 ha of vineyards. Output currently is running at from a single vineyard whereas the Grandes Añadas is a very limited special around 25,000 cases a year and quality for the price is very good indeed. The bottling. It is only released in the greatest years and is very pricey. A fine slatey soils and 50 year old vines add much to quality. The Garnacha de Fuego modern source of Rioja, the company also now has an investment in the newly is a vibrant fruit driven style whereas the other two wines offer greater depth established Navarra property Artazu and in particular the old-vine Grenache and some structure, particularly the Armas which is raised in barrels for 18 Santa Cruz de Artazu as well as some vibrant new Monastrell based reds from months. (DM) Alicante at El Seque. (DM) ● Calatayud Atteca Armas★★★★ £E ● Calatayud Atteca★★★✫ £C Artadi ● Calatayud Garnacha de Fuego★★✫ £B ● Rioja Viña El Pisón★★★★★ £G BODEGAS BORSAO Campo de Borja www.bodegasborsao.com ● Rioja Pagos Viejos★★★✫ £E ● Rioja Viñas de Gain★★✫ £C H Rioja Viñas de Gain★✫ £B Co-operative Capuchinos, 10, Borja, 50540 Zaragoza Tel: 976 867116 Fax: 976 867752 Artazu ● Navarra Garnacha★★★ £C ● Navarra Santa Cruz de Artazu★★★★ £D Long-established operation with over 400 members who between them control 1,450ha of vineyards. It has long been regarded as a source of well- El Seque 458 made and well-priced regional Spanish reds. The Viña Borgia (labelled as such ● Alicante Luderas de El Seque★★✫ £B ● Alicante El Seque★★★ £C North-East Spain SPAIN in the UK) is a good, straightforward, fruit-driven style of 100% Garnacha. It well-drained rocky soils with traces of limestone. The whites are particularly is also labelled Primizia in other markets. The Borsao blends Garnacha with striking with a piercing minerality present in all the wines. Gran Caus is Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon as do the more seriously structured Xarello, Chardonnay and Chenin,Xarello Pairal 100 % varietal from a single Crianza and Reserva Seleccion labels. The Crianza is aged in French and vineyard, La Calma unusually Chenin Blanc and from a single vineyard with a American oak, the Reserva solely in French barrels for over a year. The most very calcareous soil emphasised by the intense citrus and mineral qualities of exciting wine, though, is the 100% Garnacha, Tres Picos, sourced from the wine. The top wine here though is the brilliant EL Rocallís, rich nutty and vineyards up to 40 years of age. A wine of structure and depth, offering concentrated as well as maintaing that mineral character. It comes from the complex dark berry fruit and herbal spices. (DM) rare Incroccio Manzoni. The Gran Caus rosado comes from Merlot and has ● Campo de Borja Crianza Selección★★ £B sufficient structure to work well with food. The Gran Caus red is a Bordeaux ● Campo de Borja Reserva Selección★★✫ £B style red blend of the two Cabernets and Merlot with some cedary complexity, ● Campo de Borja Tres Picos★★★ £C ● Campo de Borja Viña Borgia★✫ £B the Caus Lubis a varietal Merlot of real dark, plummy depth and ● Campo de Borja Borsao★★ £B concentration. A number of other reds are also available and entry level wines >> BURGOS PORTA Priorat are also produced under the Petit Caus label along with three Cavas. (DM) ● ★★★✫ ● ★★✫ Salvador Burgos & Conxita Porta Mas Sinén s/n, 43376 Poboleda (Tarragona) Penedès Caus Lubis £E Penedès Gran Caus £C H El Rocallís★★★★✫ £E H La Calma★★★★ £E Tel: 977 321339 Fax: 977 321339 Penedès Penedès H Penedès Xarel.lo Pairal★★★★ £E H Penedès Gran Caus★★★ £C Husband and wife team Salvador Burgos and Conxita Porta have a total of 15 H Cava Gran Caus★★★ £C J Penedès Gran Caus★★ £C ha outside the village of Poboleda which are planted on steep terraces on the local Llicorella (schist) soils. The vineyards being up to 500 metres above sea CELLERS CAPAFONS-OSSÓ Montsant www.capafons-osso.com level provide good natural acidity in the grapes and balance in the resulting Frances Capafons & Montserrat Ossó Finca Masia Esplanes, 43730 Falset wines. The vines, which are farmed organically, vary in age with the oldest up Tel: 977 831201 Fax: 977 831367 to 50 years. Just two wines are produced in the old stone winery, the tradition This operation has two estates, one in Montsant and the second in Priorat, rated below and a second wine Coster, a reserve bottling from half Garnacha with a total of some 30ha under vine. Three wines are produced at the Masia and half Carineña. The most important wine from a commercial perspective is Esplanes cellars in Montsant. A juicy, forward rosé, Roigenc, is 100% Syrah the Tradition a blend of Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carineña and a small cool-fermented with 8 hours of skin contact. The Vessants red, a blend of amount of Syrah. This is aged for 12 months in mainly French oak, with just a Merlot, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cariñena, and the denser and little American and is given a light egg white fining and filtration prior to more structured Masia Esplanes, blended from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, bottling. It offers impressive smoky, spicy and dark-berry and plummy fruit Garnacha and Syrah, are aged for 10 to 12 months in French and American and good depth and persistence. Expect the wine to show well within three or oak. Both wines are dominated by dark and spicy fruit rather than the more four years. (DM) mineral, sauvage character often found in neighbouring Priorat. A white from ● Priorat Mas Sinén Tradition★★★★ £F the DO Ca, Enllac, is produced as well as three reds. Sirsell is a newly released fruit-driven blend which is softer and lighter than its stablemates. The Masos CELLERS CAN BLAU Montsant d’en Cubells is the more approachable of the two top wines. The Mas de Oro Wines Group Ctra. Bellmunt s/n, 43730 Falset (Tarragona) Masos, is impressively rich, concentrated and darkly-spicy. Both have a subtle Tel: 977 839810 Fax: 977 839811 mineral undercurrent which is less ferocious than some. (DM) Based in the village of Mas Roig this newly established operation has 25 ha ● Priorat Sirsell★★★ £C ● Priorat Masos d’En Cubells★★★✫ £D comprising Cariñena planted on sandy/clay soils, Garnacha on slate and Syrah ● Priorat Masos de Masos★★★★ £E ● Montsant Vessants★★✫ £C on chalk. Australian winemaker Sarah Morris who was at TORBRECK in the ● Montsant Masia Esplanes★★★✫ £D J Montsant Roigenc★★ £C Barossa Valley, crafts wines of splendid elegance as well as intensity. The Can Blau is dark, smokey and full of rich sweet fruit, the Mas de Can Blau more CELLER DE CAPÇANES Montsant www.cellercapcanes.com intense and complex, with a marked old-viney quality as well as a piercing Co-operatve Llabería, Capçanes, 43776 Tarragona minerality underpinning the wine. Both are bottled unfined and unfiltered. Tel: 977 178319 Fax: 977 178319 (DM) One of Spain’s finest co-operatives, established way back in 1933, it is also ● Montsant Mas de Can Blau★★★★✫ £E ● Montsant Can Blau★★★★ £D among the best in Europe. It was really only in 1995 that high quality was achieved as a result of the production of a remakable Kosher wine, Flor de >> CAN RAFOLS DELS CAUS Penedès Primavera. This initiative was promoted by the Jewish community of Can Rafols dels Caus SL 08793 Avinyonet del Penedes (Barcelona) Barcelona who wished to produce a high-quality wine under strict Lo mebushal Tel: 938 970013 Fax: 938 970370 conditions, with everything carried out by a rabbi (with guidance) and no This is among the very best sources of Penedes and Cava, in particular a pasteurisation of the wine. It has evolved into a splendid blend of Cabernet number of stunning white wines. Carlos Esteva began restoring the vineyards Sauvignon, Garnacha, Tempranillo and Cariñena. With the resulting new on the old family estate in 1979 after they had fallen into a state of some investment that this development brought the range of reds here is now disrepair. His key to success is the approach in the vineyards which are farmed extensive and generally very impressive. The 120-strong membership provides organically and pruning and harvesting is all done manually. The vineyards are some splendid old-vine Garnacha, Tempranillo and Cariñena as well as Merlot, located around 15 kms inland from the Mediterranean and enjoy a maritime Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, drawing on close to 250ha of vineyards. The climate and benefit from an altitude of 300 metres as well as cooling sea top-labelled reds are now classified under the recently established Monsant breezes. The terroir is ideal for high quality wine production with sparse and 459 North-East Spain

DO. Among the best wines are two ripe, berry-fruited styles, Mas Collet American oak for 12–14 months. The wine is full of dark, spicy Grenache which sees some oak and Mas Donís, both have a big dollop of Garnacha. Mas varietal character and is less austerely mineral and sauvage in style and character Donís has some Syrah adding firm, tannic depth. Costers del Gravet is fuller than some others from the appellation. It deserves 5 or 6 years’ ageing to show and more structured – a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha, Cariñena at its best. (DM) and Tempranillo – but the tannin can be a touch raw in its youth. The Vall de ● Priorat Lo Givot★★★★ £F Calàs, a blend of Merlot, Garnacha and Tempranillo is suppler and rounder with dark plum fruit. The top two wines, Mas Tortò and Cabrida, are both CIMS DE PORRERA Priorat markedly extracted, dense and powerful reds. The former is dominated by old- Cims de Porerra SL Ctra. Torroja, s.n. Porrera, 43739 Valladolid vine Garnacha, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah lending structure and Tel: 977 828187 Fax: 977 828187 SPAIN perfume. Cabrida, 100% very old-vine Garnacha (some close to 100 years), is One of an increasing number of top-quality performers from this small but macerated on skins for 4–5 weeks and has a modern touch with malolactic in great appellation. There are 55ha of vines here, producing a firmly structured, barrel, most of the oak being French. It is immensely concentrated, just lacking rich and concentrated Priorat, Classic dominated by Cariñena blended with that element of extra refinement for true greatness but very impressive and Garnacha and just a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon. It is dark, spicy and ageworthy nonetheless. All of the wines offer excellent value for money. (DM) beguiling in its fiery complexity. Two small-scale single-vineyard bottlings, Finca Pigat and Finca La Tena are both 100% Cariñena. There is a good, ● Montsant Mas Donís★✫ £B ● Montsant Mas Collet★★ £B ● Montsant Vall de Calàs★★✫ £B much more forward second wine, Solanes. Produced from younger vines, it ● Montsant Costers del Gravet★★★ £C will provide an exciting example of what the DO has to offer at a relatively ● Montsant Mas Tortò★★★✫ £C affordable price. (DM) ● Montsant Flor de Primavera★★★✫ £D ● Priorat Classic★★★★ £F ● Priorat Solanes★★★ £D ● Montsant Cabrida★★★★ £E >> CLOS D’AGON Catalunya www.closdagon.com CASTELL DEL REMEI Costers de Segre www.castelldelremei.com Mas Gil SL Afueras de Calonge, Apdo 117, 17251 Calonge (Girona) Cusiné family 25333 Lleida Tel: 972 661486 Fax: 972 661486 Tel: 973 580200 Fax: 973 718312 This small bodega is located in the far north-east of the country on the granite Good to very good reds are made at Castell del Remei along with Blanc Panell, plateau of Girona and the vineyards are just a few kilometres from the a tank-fermented blend of Macabeo, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, and Mediterranean coast and just south of the French border. The property is Oda Blanc, which is vinified and aged on lees for six months in American oak. owned by a group of Swiss friends who retain Peter Sisseck (who vinifies The reds really stand out. Gotim Bru is a ripe, forward blend of Tempranillo, PINGUS) as a consultant. The gravel, clay and granite soils and the maritime Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with a spicy hint of cinnamon from 10 influence on the local mesoclimate provide an excellent environment for months’ ageing in American wood, which is used for all the Castell del Remei cultivating the Bordeaux red varieties. Clos d’Agon Tinto is a mix of Cab Sauv, reds. Oda is denser and more structured, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Merlot and some Syrah amd a little Petit Verdot. The second wine Valmaña is Sauvignon and Tempranillo. The top label, 1780, is a firmly structured blend good if quite a bit lighter and from a similar blend. A little stylish, barrel- of Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo and Merlot. Excellent results are also now fermented white is also made which is a nutty, peachy, citrus scented mix of being achieved at a separate property Cérvoles Celler. The fine and ripe dark- Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne. (DM) fruited Cérvoles blends Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo with some ● Catalunya Clos d’Agon★★★★ £E ● Catalunya Clos Valmaña★★★ £D Garnacha and Merlot, whereas the richer and more sumptuous Cérvoles H Catalunya Clos d’Agon★★★ £D Estrats has no Merlot in its blend and the Cabernet which dominates provides a firm and structured cedary undercurrent. (DM) CLOS DEL LLOPS Priorat Luc Van Isegem Camí Manyetes, Gratallops, 43737 Tarragona Castell del Remei Tel: 977 839171 Fax: 977 839426 ● Costers del Segre 1780★★★ £D This is another property with valuable input from winemaker René Barbier ● Costers del Segre Oda★★✫ £C ● Costers del Segre Gotim Bru★★ £C Ferrer, the owner of CLOS MOGADOR and consultant to Daphne Glorian at CLOS I TERASSES. Output is relatively small, barely 1,000 cases a year, so the Cérvoles Celler wine, Clos Manyetes, is inevitably scarce. It is dark and almost impenetrable in ● Costers del Segre Cérvoles Estrats★★★★ £E ● Costers del Segre Cérvoles★★★ £C its youth, with a very marked, deep, spicy character from Cariñena, which dominates a blend also comprising Garnacha. The Cariñena is grown in slate CELLER DEL PONT Priorat www.cellerdelpont.com soils and, while this variety may not be being heavily replanted in the region, Francisco Fernández & Montse Nadal C/ del Riu No1, 43374 La Vilella Baixa examples like this demonstrate the real personality that it can give. The wine Tel: 977 828231 Fax: 977 828231 deserves cellaring for at least 5 years. (DM) Recently established small Priorat property producinga sturdy, powerful and ● Priorat Clos Manyetes★★★★★ £F richly mineral-laden red, Lo Givot. The wine is a blend of Garnacha, Cariñena, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. At present the vineyard area CLOS FIGUERAS Priorat www.europvin.com stretches over around 5 ha, and half of the vines are over 50 years old, planted Charlotte & Christopher Cannan Camí Manyetes, Gratallops, 43737 Tarragona on free-draining shale hillside slopes. All of the varieties are vinified separately Tel: 666 425274 Fax: 938 165327 in stainless steel and maturation takes place in mainly French and some This is the home estate of Bordeaux-based wine broker Christopher Cannan, 460 who also owns the excellent Montsant operation, EUROPVIN-FALSET. Clos North-East Spain SPAIN Figueras is an excellent example of old-vine Garnacha and Cariñena, which made by them. There is a total of some 60ha of vineyards, 4ha of which are account for around 80% of its blend. The Cannans acquired the estate in Graciano. There were some cellar problems in the late 1980s but these have 1997 on advice from René Barbier and 10ha out of a total of 17ha are planted now been eradicated. There are now straightforward Crianzas and Reservas on the famous licorella schistous soils. A second label, Font de la Figuera, is which have reasonable depth and are supple and velvety in texture. As well as from younger vines and is softer, rounder and much more approachable. It has these, there is a varietal Graciano which is firmer and less approachable along less Garnacha and Cariñena in the blend and includes more Syrah, Mourvèdre with the single-vineyard Viña del Olivo. (DM) and Cabernet Sauvignon. There are also some Viognier vines and these ● Rioja Graciano★★★★ £F ● Rioja Viña del Olivo★★★✫ £E contribute to the recently established CLOS NELIN. (DM) ● Rioja Crianza★★✫ £B ● Rioja Reserva★★★ £D ● Priorat Clos Figueras★★★★ £F COSTERS DEL SIURANA Priorat www.costersdelsiurana.com ● Priorat Font de la Figuera★★★ £D Carlos Pastrana Manyetes, s/n Gratallops, 43737 Tarragona CLOS I TERASSES Priorat Tel: 977 839276 Fax: 977 839371 Daphne Glorian Valls 24, Gratallops, 43737 Tarragona Sizeable operation by Priorat standards with 40ha of estate vineyards. Carlos Tel: 977 839426 Fax: 977 839426 Pastrana was one of the earlier pioneers of the appellation, establishing his Very small but very impressive 10-ha Priorat property established in 1989 and estate in the 1980s. Of the wines the dense and powerful Clos de l’Obac is a one of a number of emerging operations that have transformed this small DO dark, fiery and impressively structured blend of Garnacha and Cabernet from rustic backwater to an important wine region. Two wines are made here: Sauvignon in equal parts, with a little Merlot, Syrah and Carineña. Dolç de the top wine, Clos Erasmus, is a super-rich blend of Garnacha, Cabernet l’Obac is an unusual sweet red blended from Syrah, Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon and Cariñena; the well-priced second wine, Laurel, is produced Sauvignon. The Miserere bottling is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, from Cabernet Sauvignon. Clos Erasmus is given extended ageing in new oak Garnacha, Tempranillo and Merlot as well as Carineña. It is lighter with and is a massively dense, powerful and exotic style of red. It is both very reasonable depth and a soft rounded structure but, while good, has a leaner concentrated and complex, but very firm and structured when young. (DM) edge than others. (DM) ● Priorat Clos Erasmus✪✪✪✪✪ £G ● Priorat Dolç de l’Obac★★★★ £G ● Priorat Clos de l’Obac★★★★ £F CLOS MOGADOR Priorat ● Priorat Miserere★★★ £E René Barbier Ferrer 43737 Tarragona Tel: 977 839171 Fax: 977 839426 TOMAS CUSINE Costers del Segre www.tomascusine.com Talented owner and winemaker René Barbier Ferrer advises at a number of Tomas Cusine Plaça de Sant Sebastià 13, 25547 El Vilosell, Lleida other wineries, including Daphne Glorian’s CLOS I TERASSES, as well as Tel: 973 176029 Fax: 973 176029 producing wine here at his own 20-ha property. Clos Mogador is yet another Tomas Cusine had spent twenty years working with his family property super-rich, extracted, deep and dense example of this exciting appellation. The CASTELL DEL REMEI before deciding to branch out and produce two blend is Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and, unusually, Pinot Noir, excellent reds from two small sites acquired in the north of the DO on land which just adds a piercingly fragrant note. A big, structured wine, it will neighbouring Montsant and Conca de Barbera. He now has 24ha under vine develop very well with age. Barbier is also involved at CLOS DEL LLOPS and and plans to expand this to around 40 within two or three years. The vineyard works with Christopher Cannan in producing the stylish white Priorat CLOS is at an altitude of around 700m and the strong diurnal swing in temperature NELIN. (DM) ensures good acidity in his grapes whilst also being able to harvest at a good ● Priorat Clos Mogador★★★★★ £F level of phenolic ripeness. As well as the two reds he also now makes a fine, fresh lightly mineral and fruity white Auzells from a range of white varieties CLOS NELIN Priorat including Macabeu, Parellada and Sauvignon Blanc. It gets a touch of barrel- René Barbier Ferrer Camí Manyetes, Gratallops, 43737 Tarragona fermentation and is aged on lees. The red wines are given a pre-fermentation Tel: 977 839171 Fax: 977 839426 cold-soak and the malolactic takes place in barrel. Villosell blends 50% As well as producing his brilliant CLOS MOGADOR red, René Barbier Ferrer Tempranillo with a around a quarter Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance has long been interested in making a benchmark white Priorat. The final blend from Grenache, Syrah and Merlot. It is ripe brambly and forward. The Geol is for the wine is a fascinating mix of Garnacha Blanca, Viognier, Pinot Noir firmer, a touch more structured but with a fine rounded quality to its tannins. (vinified as a white) and a little Roussanne, Marsanne and Maccabeo. The The blend here comprises 65% Merlot, just over a quarter Cabernet plots are located at high altitude on the hill of Ermita, one of the great sites of Sauvignon as well as a touch of quite old Carignan adding a dark, spicy, the appellation. Viognier is also supplied by Christopher Cannan of CLOS peppery dimension. The wines will drink very well with 3-4 years’ age. (DM) FIGUERAS, who mistakenly planted it instead of Syrah. The wine is part ● Costers del Segre Geol★★★✫ £D ● Costers del Segre Villosell★★★ £C vinified in oak and part in stainless steel and has great style and intensity. H Costers del Segre Auzells★★✫ £C Nutty and already showing impressive complexity. (DM) DOMINI DE LA CARTOIXA Priorat H Priorat Clos Nelin★★★★ £F Miguel Pérez Cerrada Camino de la Solana s/n, 43736 El Molar (Tarragona) CONTINO Rioja www.contini-sa.com Tel: 606 443736 Fax: 977 771737 Viñedos del Contino S.A. Finca San Gregorio, Laserna, 01321 Alava There are 11 ha of vineyards here which are farmed organically. The wines Tel: 945 600201 Fax: 945 621114 tend to be more fruit driven and a touch less mineral and sauvage in style than 461 This traditional Rioja property is part-owned by CVNE and the wines are some others. The dense and dark-fruited Galena is the second label, a blend of North-East Spain

Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cariñena. Vatting is for 15 days Señorio de San Vicente and the wine aged in mainly French oak for a year. The Clos Galena is ● Rioja San Vicente★★★★ £F altogether denser, more concentrated. A blend of Garnacha, Cariñena, Merlot, Viñedos de Páganos Syrah and Cabernet, the wine has a higher proportion of old-vine fruit and is ● Rioja La Nieta★★★★★ £G more mineral and nervy in character. Expect both wines to develop well for ● Rioja El Puntido★★★★✫ £F five years and more. (DM) Dominio de Eguren ● Priorat Clos Galena★★★★★ £F ● Toro Victorino★★★ £C ● Toro Almirez★★★ £C ● Priorat Galena★★★★ £E >> CELLERS DE L’ENCASTELL Priorat www.roquers.com

SPAIN >> EGUREN Rioja & Toro www.eguren.com Carme Figuerola & Raimon Castellvi 43739 Porrera (Tarragona) Eguren family 01309 Páganos-Laguardie (Alava) Tel: 977 828146 Fax: 977 828146 Tel: 902 334080 Fax: 945 600885 One of an increasing number of fine small bodegas emerging from this part of The Eguren family are one of the most important producers in Rioja and have Priorat. The family had originally sold their fruit on but decided to vinify been largely instrumental in ensuring the visibility the muscular reds now have wines from their own two estates, Mas d’en Capçador and Mas d’en Ferran in in Toro. Indeed their timely sale of the NUMANTHIA bodega to LMVH for a 1999. They have a total of 7.5 ha. Their vines are grown on the classic licorella very tidy sum seems to have been a very astute move prior to the credit and schist soils of the area and produce full bodied robust wines with a crunch. This they have replaced with a potentially very fine new property, Teso characteristic mineral undercurrent, although the Marge is much more La Monja, from where they produce a vibrant Almirez from younger vines, the obviously a fruit-driven style. Roquers de Porrera is altogether tighter, more sturdy and structured Victorino from 45 to 70 year old vines and a small structured and backward in its youth with a fiery, mineral undercurrent with amount of a limited release cuvée, Alabaster from pre-phylloxera vines. Rioja notes of dark cherry. The old vine quality of the Cariñena component in the though is the heart of the operation. Both traditional and modern styles are blend clearly showing through. The wines certainly offer good value for the produced. Based in the region since 1870, Sierra Cantabria was the first of the region. (DM) current brands to be established and four well made, traditionally crafted reds ● Priorat Roquers de Porrera★★★★ £E ● Priorat Marge★★★ £C are vinified, Cosecha, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. There are 100 ha of vineyards planted to a south to south-east exposition in the Sierra Cantabria EUROPVIN FALSET Montsant Mountains. As well as the traditional styles other wines are made. Murmurón C Cannan & R Barbier Ferrer Ctra. de Bellmunt, P21 - Sort de Capellans is a young wine vinified using carbonic maceration, Cuvée Especial is from Tel: 977 830221 Fax: 977 831712 older vines and aged in a mix of French and American oak. Organza is the Owned by Christopher Cannan, who also owns the Priorat property CLOS single white that the Egurens make, a concentrated, nutty, citrus infused and FIGUERAS, and Rene Barbier of CLOS MOGADOR, this joint venture was barrel-fermented blend of Viura, Malvasia and white Garnacha. Three established in 1999. There are two wines, both rich and concentrated. Laurona premium reds are also made at Sierra Cantabria. Colección Privada comes is blended from a mix of Garnacha, Cariñena, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and from over 50 year old vines and is aged in a mix of French and American oak. Merlot, while the Seleccio de 6 Vinyes comes from a more conventional 80% Amancio comes from a single high-altitude, organically fertilized vineyard and Garnacha and 20% Cariñena. A fair proportion of new oak is used for ageing is aged in “200% new French oak”. Finca El Bosque, which also comes from but it is the larger 500-litre casks; the Seleccio is also fermented in new oak calcareous based soils sees a little less time in wood and while equally opulent is after a long maceration. Malolactic is in barrel and the wines are kept on their a touch more elegant than Amancio. There are two other Rioja properties. At lees during maturation. (DM) Señorio de San Vicente, just one wine is made. It comes from a rare and low- ● Montsant Selecció de 6 Vinyes★★★★ £E ● Montsant Laurona★★★ £C yielding strain of Tempranillo, Peludo. Viñedos de Paganos is some way to the BODEGAS EXOPTO Rioja east of the other two estates although it is also in the shadows of the Cantabria range. The vineyards have a high calacareous clay and sandstone content and Rug Vino SL C/ Portales, 71 - 2˚(Faber) 26001 Logroño (La Rioja) offer a marked mineral quality in the two super-premium wines produced. Tel: 650 213993 Fax: 941 287822 The more economically priced El Puntido is aged for 18 months in new An impressive newly established winery in Rioja’s Alavesa. Three partners Tom French oak, while La Nieta is from a 1.75 ha small vineyard and from Puyaubert, David Sampedro and Javier Gomez purchased just over 6 ha of old restricted yields of barely more than 20 hl/ha. Both wines are from high to very old Tempranillo, Graciano and Garnacha producing their first vintage density planted vineyards. You can expect the top wines to develop well for a in 2003. The late-ripening local climate and finely drained clay/limestone over decade and more. The Eguren range is completed by some attractive fruit a sand and rock subsoil provides excellent intensity in their grapes. Most driven wines which are sourced from a range of areas and released under the approachable and excellent value is the young wine b.b. which is a blend of Dominio de Eguren label. (DM) Granacha, Tempranillo and Graciano. Horizonte is a blend of 80% Tempranillo with the balance Graciano and Garnacha. Supple and Sierra Cantabria immediately appealing it gains from 12 months in 50% new French oak with ● ★★★★★ ● ★★★★✫ Rioja Finca El Bosque £G Rioja Amancio £G the balance used French and American. Exopto is denser, more firmly ● Colección Privada★★★✫ £E ● Cuvée Especial★★✫ £C Rioja Rioja structured with 60% Graciano and 30/10 Tempranillo and Garnacha. 18 ● Rioja Gran Reserva★★★ £D ● Rioja Reserva★★✫ £C months in a high proportion of new French oak demands time for the fruit to ● Rioja Crianza★★ £B ● Rioja★✫ £B ● Rioja Murmurón★★ £B H Rioja Organza★★★ £D integrate. Five or six years patience will undoubtedly be rewarded. (DM) 462 ● Rioja Exopto★★★★ £F North-East Spain

● Rioja Horizonte de Exopto★★★✫ £D H Cava III lustros★★★ £D SPAIN ● Rioja b.b.★★✫ £B H Cava Imperial Gran Reserva★★ £C CELLERS J.M. FUENTES Priorat HACIENDAS ESPANA www.haciendas-espana.com John Hunt Montsant 2, Bellmont del Priorat, Tarragona Berberana Avenida del Ebro, 26540 Alfaro, La Rioja Tel: 977 830675 Fax: 977 830417 Tel: 941 365900 Fax: 941 609290 Small Priorat producer making an impressively structured and concentrated New-wave collection of estates owned by the giant Berberana group. Berberana Gran Clos cuvée as well as a decent second wine, El Puig, and a straightforward is responsible for some less than overwhelming wine at lower levels but four nutty white Vinya Llisarda. There are 11ha under vine planted in schistous properties have been established under a project labelled Haciendas de Espana. soils and much of the production is sold internationally. Gran Clos is blended As well as Marques de la Concordia in Rioja other operations are in the Duero from mainly Garnacha with Cariñena and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon. A Valley (Durius), in Penedès (Masia l’Hereu) and also in the south at Principe de wine of formidable extract but with beguiling dark, spicy berry fruit, it will Hohenlohe in Andalucía. For convenience we have reviewed them together in develop well with 5–7 years’ ageing. (DM) this entry. Marqués de la Concordia consists of two estates totalling just 32ha, ● Priorat Gran Clos Joset Maria Fuentes★★★★ £F the Hacienda La Concordia in the Rioja Alavesa and the Hacienda de Susar in the Rioja Baja. There is a straightforward, fruit-driven Tempranillo and a better, FERNÁNDEZ DE PIÉROLA Rioja www.pierola.com more structured Crianza which gets 18 months in French and American oak. Carlos Bujanda Fernández de Piérola 01322 Moreda Pride of place goes to the splendid Hacienda de Susar, sourced entirely from that Tel: 945 622480 Fax: 945 622489 vineyard. A blend of Tempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this Three fine reds and a relatively light barrel-fermented wild yeast white are supple and concentrated red is among the region’s more exciting new wines. made at this estate located in the north of the region in the Rioja Alavesa. Durius is a name that has been associted with the Duero for some years and the While the majority of the region’s output is still blended from different sites, wines are now genuinely interesting. The good, well-priced estate-sourced Tinto these wines are all terroir-driven. The Moreda, a tributary of the Ebro, helps is a varietal Tempranillo, while Durius Magister MMII is a rich and fleshy blend moderate the climate and provides nourishment for the deep-rooted, low- of Tempranillo, Malbec, Merlot and Syrah sourced from the firm’s best Duero yielding vines. High altitude, protection provided by the Sierra Cantabria vineyards. In the Penedès some interesting Bordeaux blends are being crafted at mountains and finely drained soils high in minerals also contribute to style and Masia l’Hereu. The Riserva Privada is a touch leafy but the Single Vineyard quality. The reds are marked by their purity of fruit and elegant intensity. The bottling from old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot offers genuine interest red Litium Reserva is richer and fuller with more obvious creamy oak character with supple, spicy, cedar fruit and well-judged French oak. Perhaps more than the more piercingly fruit-driven Crianza and Reserva. (DM) interesting is the Andalus red from Principe de Hohenlohe, a vino de mesa ● Rioja Litium Reserva★★★✫ £E ● Rioja Reserva★★★ £D produced solely from Petit Verdot. Dark, blackberry fruit and subtle oak are ● Rioja Crianza★★✫ £C H Rioja Oak Fermented★★ £C seamlesslessly integrated. Top reds will benefit from a little age, particularly the Hacienda de Susar. (DM) GRAMONA Penedès Gramona family Industria 36, 08770 Sant Sadurni d’Anoia Marques de la Concordia ● ★✫ ● ★★✫ Tel: 938 910113 Fax: 938 183284 Rioja Tempranillo £B Rioja Crianza £C ● Hacienda de Susar★★★★ £F Well-established Penedès producer founded in 1921, with an extensive range Rioja of both still wines and fine Cavas. The Gramona family have 29ha of their Haciendas Durius ● ★✫ own vineyards and also buy in fruit. The range of Cavas includes dry and V.T. Castilla y León Durius Tempranillo £B ● ★★★ medium styles and focuses heavily on the indigenous varieties of the area with V.T. Castilla y León Durius MMII £D generally very good results. The Imperial Gran Reserva has some 10% of Masia L’Hereu ● ★★✫ Chardonnay in support of Xarel-lo and Maccabeo. The III Lustros is solely Penedes Reserva Privada £C ● ★★★✫ indigenous varieties, Xarel-lo (70%) and Maccabeo. It gets an extended period Penedes Single Vineyard £E of 5–6 years on its lees. The wines offer reasonable value and are interesting Bodegas Principe Alfonso de Hohenlohe ● ★★★✫ alternatives to lesser Champagnes. A premium Celler Battle Grand Brut gets Andalus Vino de Mesa £E up to 8 years on its yeast lees, while Argent has a much higher proportion of HERETAT VALL-VENTÓS Penedès www.raventosrosell.com Chardonnay. Of the still wines the Gessami is a fresh, vibrant, fruit-driven Joan Raventós Rosell Ctra, San Sadurni-d’Anoia, 08783 Masquerna, Barcelona blend of Muscat and Sauvignon Blanc with impressive depth and intensity. Tel: 937 725251 Fax: 937 727191 The Sauvignon Blanc is barrel-fermented on its lees for 3–6 months and offers Joan Raventos Rosell set up this 60-ha property in the Mid to Upper Penedès a subtle melange of citrus, green apple and nutmeg flavours. A Chardonnay is in 1987 and he now vinifies his wines in a state-of-the-art winery. No expense also produced and there is an Ice Wine, Collecio, from Gewürztraminer and is spared on stainless steel tanks, temperature control or barrels for maturation. another from Riesling. A Merlot, Merlot & Co, which is blended with a little Still wines are released under the Heretat Vall-Ventós label, the range of Cavas Syrah, and Pinot Noir Bru de Gramona are both matured in wood, some new. as Joan Raventós Rosell. Of these the Brut Reserva Heretat vintage is (DM) particularly striking. A blend of Macabeo, Chardonnay and Parellada, it gets H Penedès Collecion★★★ £C extended time on lees as does the Brut Gran Heretat. The Heretat Vall-Ventós ★★★ H Penedès Sauvignon Blanc £C whites are marked by banana-like, estery cool-fermentation aromas and are H Penedès Gessami★★ £B aged in tank not in wood.The reds are a soft, fruity Merlot, an altogether more 463 North-East Spain

serious Cabernet Sauvignon with good grip and structure and best of all a integrated. (DM) classy Reserva. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. ● Priorat La Vinya del Vuit El 8★★★★✫ £F Tight, restrained and well-structured with hints of mint, spice and black pepper, this is more refined than many of the often alarmingly over-extracted >> MAGAÑA Navarra www.vinamagana.com reds from Penedès. It will be all the better for 5 or 6 years’ ageing. (DM) Juan Magana C/ San Miguel, Barillas, 31523 Navarra Tel: 948 850034 Fax: 948 851536 ● Penedès Merlot★ £B ● Penedès Cabernet Sauvignon★★ £C This is one of the top bodegas in Navarra. Juan Magaña established the ● Penedès Reserva★★✫ £C property in 1968 and now has around 100 ha (247 acres) planted in one of H Penedès Chardonnay★ £B the warmer sub-regions of the DO. The resulting wines tend to be richer than

SPAIN H Cava Brut Reserva Heretat★★ £C many from the region and avoid the leafy tones that can often be found in other red Navarra examples. The soils provide an ideal growing environment IJALBA Rioja www.ijalba.com consisting of a mix of gravel and limestone and a gravel subsoil providing good Dionisio Ruiz Ijalba Ctra. Pamplona, Logroño, 26006 La Rioja drainage. A number of wines are crafted under the Viña Magaña home bodega Tel: 941 261100 Fax: 941 261128 label as well as Torcas and Calchetas which are both rarer and a good deal Three reds and a decent fruity white, Genoli, are produced at this 70-ha pricier. Dignus is a crianza style red which is a typical blend of Tempranillo, property. The Múrice Tinto Crianza is a good modern, fruit-driven style. The Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is aged for around a year and French Graciano Tinto is precisely that, an unusual, varietal Graciano which is full of oak is preferred. Barón de Magaña is a more international style, still crianza, with dark brambly fruit. It is structured and will age well and is quite unlike most a blend dominated by Merlot with the balance Cabernet and Merlot. The wine Rioja in style. Continuing the unusual approach is a new varietal Maturana is fleshier and a touch more opulent with 70% rather than 50% new wood used. Tinto, Dionisio Ruiz Ijalba. A level up, the Reserva is 90% Tempranillo, while Calchetas is Merlot, Cabernet and Malbec, the richly textured and firmly the small-production Reserva Especial is an equal blend of Tempranillo and structured Torcas, which is only bottled in the best years and is a truly Graciano. Both are full, deep and extracted styles with surprising weight and international mix of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Malbec. The wine depth. Better with 4 or 5 years’ ageing. (DM) is given a lengthy maceration during fermentation and aged for 20 months or so ● ★★ Rioja Múrice £B in oak. Expect the top wines to develop well for 5 to 10 years. (DM) ● Rioja Graciano★★ £C ● Torcas★★★✫ £E ● Barón de Magaña★★★ £C ● Rioja Reserva★★★ £D Navarra Navarra ● Navarra Dignus★★✫ £B BODEGA NIÑO JESÚS Calatayud Co-operative Las Tablas, s/n, 50313 Aniñón MARQUÉS DE MURRIETA Rioja www.marquesdemurrieta.com Tel: 976 899150 Fax: 976 896160 Creixell family Ctra. Zaragoza, Km.5 Logroño, 26006 La Rioja The output of this co-op used to be sold off in bulk but recently the members Tel: 941 271370 Fax: 941 251606 have decided to make a range of their own from some excellent old Garnacha This most conservative of the Rioja bodegas produces traditional reds and and Tempranillo bush vines ranging from 60–80 years of age. The local Xirac whites which are exposed to considerable periods of oak-ageing. There are has also recently been introduced and there is a little white Maccabeo. A new some 300ha of vineyards and production is sizeable at 250,000 cases or so a state-of-the-art winery has been completed and the range of wines is now year. Gran Reservas are now all released under the Castillo d’Ygay label and marketed under the Estecillo label. Quality is aided by high-altitude vineyards Reservas are now simply Murrieta. The white Reserva Capellania is citrusy planted at 650–880m. The reds are produced using gentle basket presses and with very marked vanilla essence – oaky but good. The red Reserva and Gran the quality of the vibrant Joven and Viña Viejas in particular is very striking. Reserva can be more variable with occasionally very high volatile acidity. At The Crianza bottling is a touch more rustic. Drink the wines relatively young their best they are splendidly rich, particularly the Castillo d’Ygay Especial to enjoy their vibrant fruit, although they will stand a little age. (DM) which can be of a different order. In a concession to new-wave Rioja styles a ● Calatayud Estecillo Joven★★ £B premium red, Dalmau, is now produced. It is firm, structured and above all ● Calatayud Estecillo Viña Viejas★★★ £C elegant and it should develop well with 5 or 6 years’ cellaring. A less oaked, ● Calatayud Estecillo Crianza★★✫ £C straightforward white Misela is also produced in Rioja, and in Rías Baixas a peachy, lightly exotic white Pazo de Barrantes, which should be drunk young. >> LA VINYA DEL VUIT Priorat (DM) La Vinya del Vuit SL c/ de la font, 38, 43737 Gratallops (Tarragona) Tel: 977 80480 Marqués de Murrieta ● Dalmau Reserva★★★★ £F ● Reserva★★✫ £C The name of this winery refers to the eight partners involved in the project. Rioja Rioja ● Rioja Gran Reserva Especial Castillo d’Ygay★★★✫ £E Just one red is produced each year, a Priorat of persuasive depth and character H Rioja Reserva Capellania Reserva★★ £B combining dark-berried fruit with an elegant perfumed mineral complexity. Pazo de Barrantes The project is led by husband and wife winemaking team Sara Perez (MAS H Rias Baixas Albarino★★★ £C MARTINET) and René Barbier Jnr (CLOS MOGADOR). The wine is produced from extremely old, near centenarian, Carineña and Garnacha vines MARQUÉS DE RISCAL Rioja www.marquesderiscal.com on the schistous soils outside the village of Gratallops. The richly textured fruit Herederos del Marqués de Riscal Torrea 1, Elciego, 01340 Alava is underpinned by sturdy youthful tannins and creamy oak. It is aged for just Tel: 945 606000 Fax: 945 606023 464 under two years in a large proportion of new oak which is well judged and Much development and expense has been put into this noble old bodega in North-East Spain SPAIN recent years. Paul Pontallier of Château MARGAUX in Bordeaux has provided ● Emporda-Costa Brava Masia Carreras★★★✫ £D additional guidance in the winery. Some of the releases in the early 1990s were ● Emporda-Costa Brava Garnatxa Masia Pairal Can Carreras★★★✫ £D variable to say the least, but things seem to be taking a welcome turn for the H Emporda-Costa Brava Masia Carreras★★★ £C H ★★ better. The Riojas under the Marqués de Riscal label can still disappoint but Emporda-Costa Brava Verd Albera £C the Barón de Chirel Reserva is very impressive: rich but structured and firm in MAS ALTA Priorat www.bodegasmasalta.com its youth. It will make excellent drinking with 5 or 6 years’ bottle- Philippe Lambrecht Pol 4 Parc 15, 43375 La Vilella Alta (Tarragona) development. Riscal’s Rueda has been consistently good in recent years. The Tel: 699 607865 Fax: 977 839074 fresh Superior and Sauvignon should both be enjoyed young; the Limousin is This new Belgian owned property seems certain to emerge as one of the greats lightly oaky and leesy and will benefit from keeping for 2 or 3 years. (DM) of Priorat. Already the wines have achieved a rare level and refined quality. 60 ● Rioja Gran Reseva★ £D ha have been purchased near to Daphne Glorians CLOS I TERASSES and the ● ★★★✫ Rioja Reserva Baron de Chirel £F vines range from 60 to over 100 years of age. Wine consultancy comes from H Sauvignon Blanc★ £B Rueda the Rhône specialist Michel-Tardieu of TARDIEU-LAURENT with oak being H Rueda Superior★✫ £B supplied by his Burgundian partner Dominique LAURENT. The bright, H Rueda Limousin★★ £B forward Artigas comes from younger vines, and blends Garnacha, Cariñena MARQUÉS DE VARGAS Rioja www.marquesderiscal.com and a touch of Cabernet and offers just a hint of minerality on the finish. The Bodegas y Vinedos del Marqués de Vargas SA Ctra Zaragoza, 26006 Logrono other two wines are firmer, more structured and backward. Old-vine Cariñena Tel: 941 261401 Fax: 941 238696 is the most important component of both wines and they both have more new This 65-ha family-owned property is unusual for the region in producing wood in evidence. The powerful rich and concentrated La Creu Alta demands wines solely from its own vineyards. Recently quality has been increasingly five to seven years cellaring, a year or two longer than La Bassetta. (DM) high, with major investment in a new winery facility and consultancy from ● Priorat La Creu Alta★★★★★ £G Michel Rolland. The style is traditional but the winemaking and the purity ● Priorat La Basseta★★★★✫ £F and depth in the wines are second to none. The vineyards are tended naturally, ● Priorat Artigas★★★✫ £E avoiding herbicides and pesticides, yields are kept tightly under control and MAS DOIX Priorat green-harvesting is carried out prior to veraison. The Reserva is 75/10/5/10 Doix & Llagostera families Carme, 115, 43376 Poboleda (Tarragona) Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Garnacha and other varieties. Ageing is in a Tel: 639 356172 Fax: 933 216790 combination of American, Russian and French oak, just under a third new. Although the Doix family have been involved in viticulture here since the 19th The Private Reserva is 60% Tempranillo, 10% each of Mazuelo and Garnacha century, it wasn’t until Ramon Llangostera took over the running of the and the balance other varieties. There is also a top label Reserva Especial, property with major investment creating a new winery in 1998 that Celler Hacienda Pradolagar, which requires a very deep pocket. The wines will benefit Mas Doix was born. It has emerged as one of the finest bodegas of the region. from 3 or 4 years’ cellaring. (DM) The vineyards around the village of Poboleda are planted on naturally very ● ★★★ Rioja Reserva £E low-yielding slopes and with Garnacha and Cariñena of between 70 and 100 ● Rioja Private Reserva★★★★ £F years of age the potential is tremendous. The Mas Doix is almost totally CELLER MARTI FABRA Empordà-Costa Brava vinified from Garnacha and Cariñena and from yields often as low as 15 hl/ha. Celler Marti Fabra SA Barrio Vic, 2617751 Sant Climent Sescebes This brilliantly dense and intensely mineral infused red gets a vatting of 30 to Tel: 972 563011 Fax: 972 563011 40 days and is in new French oak for 12 months. The second label Salanques This property has been in family hands since the 12th century and the style of is more obviously fruit driven, coming from younger vines and with a touch of the wines is very traditional. The DO is right in the north-eastern corner of Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah blended in. It is more accessible and will drink Spain, in very close proximity to the vineyards of the Roussillon in France. well with three or four years ageing. Expect the Mas Doix to develop well for Understandably the wines share quite a similarity with the better examples up to a decade or more. (DM) from that region. The vineyards themselves benefit from drying maritime ● Priorat Mas Doix★★★★★ £G breezes and as such require minimal treatment and intervention. The meagre ● Priorat Salanques★★★★ £E slatey soils ensure a low-yielding crop of intensely flavouful grapes. There are MAS D’EN GIL Priorat www.masdengil.com two very characterful wines under the Masia Carreras label. The spicy, herb Pere Rovira Finca Mas d’en Gil, s/n, 43738 Bellmunt del Priorat (Tarragona) scented berry-laden red blends 50% Grenache, 35% Carignan and a touch Tel: 977 830192 Fax: 977 830152 each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo and Syrah. The white, a blend of This small Mas was founded in 1998 by the Rovira Carbonell family with mainly Carignan Blanc and Gris with a little Grenache Blanc and Gris and a much investment going into both their 45 ha of vineyards planted in the touch of Piquepoul, is a richly nutty, herby style with a lovely toasty characteristic slate licorella soils of the area and in the cellars. The result is not undercurrent. Both wines possess a real mineral backbone. The musky, citrussy only excellent reds but a very characterful white, Coma Blanca, which blends Verd Albera is much more fruit driven in style. In part this is down to its Garnacha Blanca with Macabeo. Rich and nutty with underlying citrus and vinification and part to its 50% Muscat component. The range is completed mineral notes it gains weight and texture from six months in French oak. by two late-harvest sweet wines. There is a Muscat and particularly characterful Coma Vella, the most accessible of the reds is a fruit driven blend of Garnacha, a rich, intensely nutty and complex Garnatxa, coming from old-vine Grenache Cariñena, Cabernet, Syrah and Merlot. The Clos Fontá, mainly Garnacha and and aged in barrel for five to 10 years. (DM) Cariñena with a quarter Cabernet adding some minty dark fruit, is denser, 465 North-East Spain

firmer and more structured with a powerful mineral undercurrent. It demands which is fortified early leaving considerable sweetness and is a blend of four or five years cellaring to show at its best. A very small amount of a reserva different vintages, a form of solera is created before bottling. Deep golden in label Gran Buig is also made in exceptional years from the oldest plots of colour with a nutty, honeyed richness and just a toast of lemon acidity to add Garnacha and Cariñena. It is by no means cheap. (DM) balance. (DM) ● Priorat Clos Fontà★★★★✫ £F ● Empordà Gneis★★★★ £E ● Empordà Io★★★ £C ● Priorat Coma Vella★★★✫ £E H Empordà Ino Garnatxa de L’Empordà★★★ £E H Priorat Coma Blanca★★★✫ £E H Empordà Ctònia★★★ £C MAS MARTINET Priorat >> MELIS Priorat

SPAIN Pérez Overjero family Ctra, Falset-Gratallops, Falset, 43730 Tarragona Melis partnership Gratallops (Tarragona) Tel: 629 238236 Fax: 639 121244 Tel: 937 313021 Fax: 937 312371 Small family-run operation producing some excellent results in this high- This impressive, small Priorat operation is part owned by Santa Barbara based quality DO. The Perez Ovejero family possess some 7ha of vineyards which Victor Gallegos who also spearheads the viticulture at SEA SMOKE CELLARS yield a marvellously complex, structured wine. In Clos Martinet they handcraft in California’s coastal Sta. Rita Hills AVA. The vineyards are planted at a wine with more elegance and less raw power than some of the wines of their between 250 and 350 metres above sea level in the classic volcanic schist and neighbours but rarely with less intensity or finesse. It is a blend of Garnacha, licorella slate soils of the region. Work on the vineyards began in 2000 and Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cariñena. Recently added to this are two very new plantings of close-spaced and spur pruned Garnacha, Cariñena, Syrah and rich, structured and intense single vineyard bottlings. Els Escurçons is from a Cabernet Sauvignon have been added to some ancient Cariñena already mass-selection of Grenache and Syrah, planted at 600 meters, Cami Pesseroles planted. Low yielding fruit and meticulous care in the vineyard provide two is a blend of old-vine Garnacha and Cariñena. Both possess real depth and wines of excellent dark fruit intensity, purity and balance as well as an weight. One of the winemakers here, José Luis Perez, was also involved with underlying mineral quality from the soils. Elix, which like its sister wine, comes CIMS DE PORRERA. The second wine, Martinet Bru, is very well priced and from a blend of the vineyards grape varieties along with some Merlot and is relatively soft and accessible. (DM) softer and more approachable. Melis is tighter, more structured and offers ● Priorat Cami Pesseroles★★★★✫ £F greater depth and dimension. Both wines are very polished examples of the ● Priorat Els Escurçons★★★★✫ £F appellation and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. (DM) ● ★★★★✫ Priorat Clos Martinet £F ● Priorat Melìs★★★★★ £F ● Priorat Elix★★★★ £E ● Priorat Martinet Bru★★★✫ £D BODEGA ABEL MENDOZA Rioja MAS PERINET Priorat Abel Mendoza Monge 26338 San Vicente de la Sonsierra, La Rioja Joan Manuel Sarrat 43360 Cornudella du Montsant, Tarragona Tel: 941 308010 Fax: 941 308010 Tel: 977 821079 Fax: 977 821079 One of an emerging number of high-quality small bodegas. A number of red Ambitious new Priorat project which was started in 1998 with vineyard and white Rioja’s are made here. The two whites are barrel-fermented and aged holdings in both the Priorat and Montsant appellations. There are a total of and impresssive and well-priced varietal examples. The Joven and Crianza reds some 32ha now under cultivation but the property covers an area of 269ha, so are solely from Tempranillo and aged in French rather than American oak. The there is plenty of scope to develop. The first releases were only at the end of 18ha of vineyards in the shadow of the Sierra Cantabria mountains are planted 2004. An increasing number of wines are being added to the range. The white in clay/limestone and stony, sandy soils, which provide an excellent terroir. The Montsant is a blend of Garnacha Blanco, Chenin Blanc and a little Muscat à entry-level red is a vibrant, fruit-filled, exuberant wine produced by carbonic Petits Grains. Barrel-fermented in French oak, it offers impressive purity and maceration for drinking young. The Jarrarte is a stylish, well-structured barrel- subtle, nutty, citrus and herb-spiced fruit. The Priorat is in a lighter style than aged (older barrels are used) Rioja, with rich fruit and supple, well-rounded many of the more ferocious examples found elsewhere and is dominated more tannins. It will develop well over 4–5 years. The Selección Personal, is aged in by elegant dark berry fruit than their raw, mineral sauvage quality. A property new oak. Powerful, dense and impeccably balanced it has the depth and to watch. A superior bottling Gotia has also been released. (DM) structure to develop very well over 8–10 years. Equally ageworthy are two very ● Priorat★★★✫ £E impressive varietal examples of Tempranillo and Graciano. These are rich, ★★★ H Montsant Clos Maria £C sumptuous modern style Riojas with the malolactic in barrel. (DM) >> MASIA SERRA Empordà www.closdagon.com ● Rioja Graciano★★★★✫ £F ● ★★★★ Masia Serra SL Dels Solés, 20, 17750 Cantollops (Girona) Rioja Tempranillo £F ● Selección Personal Crianza★★★★ £E Tel: 972 531765 Fax: 972 531766 Rioja ● Rioja Jarrarte Crianza★★★✫ £C Top class wines are produced at this bodega on the far north-east ● Rioja Jarrarte Joven★★ £B Mediterranean coast of the country. Established in 1995 there are now 10 ha H Rioja Malvasia★★✫ £C under vine. The Gneis, named after the soil of the terroir, is a finely structured, H Rioja Viura★★✫ £C elegant and concentrated blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha and Merlot. Herbal spices are underpinned by a cedary depth adding complexity. Ageing is MERUM PRIORATI Priorat www.merumpriorati.com in French oak for a year and a half and the wine is bottled unfiltered. The Narelle King & Don lewis Pau Casals, 5 - 43739 Porrera (Tarragona) second wine Io comes from a very similar blend, it is softer and a touch lighter. Tel: 977 828324 Fax: 977 828307 466 Ctònia is a barrel-fermented white which is 100% Garnacha Blanca offering a This is a new venture benefiting from the winemaking expertise of Don Lewis, creamy nutty complexity. The small range is completed by sweet white Ino head winemaker at MITCHELTON in Australia. The property is based in the North-East Spain SPAIN eastern sector of the Priorat DO, in Porrera. Just two wines are produced, both with 5 or 6 years’ ageing. (DM) of which are vinified in small open fermenters with hand plunging. The wine ● Rioja Crianza★★★ £C is then matured by individual parcel and blended at bottling after 12 months. ● Rioja Reserva★★★✫ £D The lighter, more approachable Ardiles is a mix of mainly Garnacha and ● Rioja Gloria de Ostatu★★★★✫ £F Carineña from both newer and older vines, with a small amount of Syrah and PALACIOS REMONDO Rioja Cabernet to add both structure as well as an additional flavour dimension. Palacios Remondo family Camino de Carraovejas s/n , 47300 Peñafiel Ageing is in a combination of new and older barriques. The denser and Tel: 941 180207 Fax: 941 181628 powerfully structured Osmin is more obviously mineral with a spicy dark As well as producing his own range in Priorat, Alvaro PALACIOS has also had a undercurrent and old-viney character to its fruit. It is a blend of 80 to 100 year significant recent contribution to the family property in the Rioja Baja. The old Garnacha and Cariñena as well as younger Syrah, Cabernet and Merlot. A 150ha of vineyards are covered with large pebbles and provide a formidable toasty note is added to the meaty, flinty character of the fruit from 100% new resource for intensely flavoured fruit. There is a lightly oaked white Plácet, as oak and the wine will undoubtedly benefit from at least five years ageing. (DM) well as a range of reds here which impress. La Vendimia is partly vinified by ● Osmin★★★★✫ £F Priorat carbonic maceration, which provides a wine of immediate appeal. Dark and ● Priorat Ardiles★★★✫ £E spicy La Montesa Crianza spends a year in oak. The Reserva Especial is also MUGA Rioja www.bodegasmuga.com traditional in style and sees longer in wood offering a wine of real intensity and Muga family Barrio de la Estación, Haro, 26200 La Rioja carry on the palate. Propriedad is fermented in large wooden casks and then Tel: 941 311825 Fax: 941 312867 transferred to barrique for malolactic. It is supple and richly extracted. Dos This family-owned bodega is small by Rioja standards. The approach is fiercely Viñedos is a blend of varieties – Tempranillo with some Garnacha and traditional for most of the range and at best the wines can be very good. There Graciano sourced from two higher-altitude vineyards. Rich and concentrated, can also be infuriating variations in quality with oxidation and high volatile it is aged in both French and, for a shorter time, American oak. (DM) acidity being regularly encountered. Fermentation is in wooden vats and ● Rioja Herencia Remondo La Vendimia★★✫ £C ageing in oak. Nevertheless the Reserva and Gran Reserva can display ● Rioja Herencia Remondo La Montesa Crianza★★★ £C classically mellow, rounded Tempranillo character with vanilla and coconut ● Rioja Herencia Remondo La Montesa Reserva Selección Especial★★★ £D ● ★★★ notes infused from extended time in cask. Tempranillo is blended with Rioja Propriedad H Remondo £D ● ★★★★ Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano in the Reserva and Prado Enea; with Rioja Dos Viñedos £F H Rioja Plácet★★★ £D Mazuelo and Graciano in the impressive and expensive new, modern-style Torre Muga, which is loaded with vibrant blackberry fruit and velvety tannin. ALVARO PALACIOS Priorat The top wine is the splendidly complex Aro, a blend of 60 year old Alvaro Palacios Finca El Colomé, Gratallops, 43737 Tarragona Tempranillo and Graciano aged for 18 months in new Franch oak. Good Tel: 977 839195 Fax: 977 839197 white Fermentado en Barrica shows some depth and some decent, fruity rosé Alvaro Palacios established this excellent small property in the late 1980s and completes the range. (DM) he produces some very good to quite exceptional examples of the Priorat DO ● Rioja Torre Muga★★★★ £F from his 10ha of vineyards. Experience gained in the Napa Valley has enabled ● Rioja Aro★★★★★ £H him to produce modern, very finely crafted examples from this small but great ● ★★ Rioja Reserva £C region. Les Terasses is produced from fruit sourced throughout the area. The ● ★★★ Rioja Gran Reserva Prado Enea £D result is always harmonious and impressive, the wine displaying supple tannin H Bianco★✫ £B Rioja and an exotic, dark fruit quality. The magnificently concentrated L’Ermita, BODEGAS OSTATU Rioja www.ostatu.com produced from very old vines, is dominated by Garnacha with a hint of Sáenz de Samaniego family 01307 Samaniego, Alava Garnacha Blanco, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cariñena. Finca Dofi has less Tel: 945 609133 Fax: 945 123338 Garnacha, although that is still the main variety, with a firm structure provided A family-run bodega – still quite rare in this region of large commercial by the inclusion of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Cariñena. It is very interests – producing Rioja of exemplary quality, white as well as red. They complex, with an almost floral, cedary character as well as the rich, dark fruit have just 26ha in the higher-altitude vineyards of the Rioja Alavesa planted on of the Garnacha. Finca Dofi and L’Ermita are both refined and very ageworthy, chalky-clay soils. There is a young red wine vinified in part by carbonic improving effortlessly for a decade or more. (DM) maceration and two whites, one of them barrel-fermented and aged on fine ● Priorat Les Terasses★★★ £D lees. The top reds are all very modern in style. The Crianza is Tempranillo, ● Priorat Finca Dofi★★★★★ £F ● ✪✪✪✪✪ Garnacha and Graciano aged in a combination of French and American oak; it Priorat L’Ermita £H offers real depth at this level. The Reserva is aged for 16 months in largely PARÉS BALTÁ Penedès www.paresbalta.com French oak. Rich, dense, darker and smokier than you would normally find Joan Cusiné Masis Can Baltá s/n, 08739 Pacs del Penedès from the region, it blends 90% Tempranillo with some Graciano. The top Tel: 938 901933 Fax: 938 901143 wine, Gloria de Ostatu, is amongst the best modern reds in Rioja. It is 100% This sizeable and ancient Penedes producer, established in 1790, has an Tempranillo, sourced from the family’s oldest vines on steep south-west facing extensive range which includes both still wines and Cava. There are 174ha slopes and aged in all-new French oak. This wine needs and demands time to under vine and the total output is now approaching 70,000 cases a year. The come into balance and a splendid depth and complexity here should emerge regular Cavas and still wines offer decent value for money and the Mas Elena 467 North-East Spain

red stands out, a soft, lightly herbal, forward blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache with the underside of the leaves having a hairy appearance) and Merlot and Cabernet Franc, Mas Petit is Cabernet Sauvignon and Garnaxta Carineña. The wine is aged for 20 months in 300 litre barrels to emphasise the (grenache). Of the two rosado styles Ros de Pacs blends Cabernet Sauvignon quality of its fruit. (DM) and Merlot, Radix is a juicy Shiraz with just four hours skin contact. The soft ● Priorat Gratallops Partida Bellvisos★★★★✫ £F fruity Blanc de Pacs blends Macabeo, Xarello and Parellada, Calcari is a more complex Xarello aged on stirred lees. Ginesta is a fine and spicy, varietally pure PASANAU GERMANS Priorat Gewürztraminer sourced from high altitude vines. The Special Selection wines, Ricard Pasanau 43361 La Morera de Montsant produced in small volume and from the lowest yielding sites, are where some Tel: 977 827202 Fax: 977 827202 of the most impressive results are being achieved. Long maceration and new Small Priorat property producing wines of impressive style and excellent value SPAIN oak are the order of the day for the reds, with barrel-fermentation on lees for in a region not especially noted for it. Pasanau has some of the highest the two premium whites, Mas de Carol and Electio, vinified from Chardonnay vineyards in the appellation on the viticultural boundary between Priorat and and Xarello respectively. There are four sturdy and characterful premium reds. Montsant. The Finca La Planeta comes from a 3ha plot planted on meagre Mas Irene blends Cabernet Franc and Merlot, whereas Absis is a mix of rocky soils with a gravelly top soil. The growing conditions are excellent for Tempranillo, Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Hisenda Miret is a spicy, cultivating Cabernet Sauvignon and this dominates the blend but Garnacha herb scented Garnaxta, Marta de Baltá a densely packed, licoricey Syrah. The contributes 20% and gives the wine a rich opulent character as well as a firm Absis in particular requires a minimum of 6–7 years to shed its burly tannins. mineral structure. The Ceps Mous is softer, more forward with more obvious There are also two very good sweet wines Melis white and red. The white is berry fruit. It combines Garnacha, Cariñena, Merlot and Syrah. Newly added fully Chardonnay, the red Tempranillo and Cabernet. The winery also is a single vineyard old-vine Cariñena, El Vell Coster. (DM) produces the very limited-production Dominio Cusiné 1790. Cava is also ● Priorat Finca La Planeta★★★★ £E ● ★★★✫ important here and Blanca Cusiné and the 100% Chardonnay Cuvée de Carol Priorat Ceps Nous £D are both notable. Both have primary fermentation in barrel. The family also CELLER VINOS PIÑOL Terra Alta www.vinospinol.com own the Gratavinum winery in Priorat where they are producing a fine, more Piñol family Avda. Aragon.9, 143786 Batea, Tarragona fruit driven style than some of the more ferocious examples elsewhere in the Tel: 977 430505 Fax: 977 430498 region. 2PR blends Garnacha, Cariñena and Syrah. (DM) One of the very best producers in this small DO in the far north-east of the Parés Baltá country. Part of the key to quality here is the altitude of the 37ha of vineyards ● Penedès Absis★★★★ £G at some 450m. The whites are good enough at the top level although they lack ● Penedès Marta de Baltá★★★★ £F the quality and depth of the reds. The soft and lightly fruity Señora del Portal ● Vino de Mesa Melis★★★✫ £E is dominated by Garnacha Blanco with a little Sauvignon and Maccabeo. The ● ★★★✫ Penedès Hisenda Miret £D barrel-fermented and aged L’Avi Arrufí is again dominated by Garnacha but is ● ★★★ Penedès Mas Irene £C very heavily oaked. The reds have a splendid dark berry and herb-spice ● Penedès Mas Elena★★ £B character with some real old-vine complexity showing through in the top ● Penedès Mas Petit★★ £B H Penedès Electio★★★ £E wines. Raig de Raim is soft and supple, made from Garnacha with a hint of H Vino de Mesa Melis★★★✫ £E Merlot. Señora del Portal is 20% each of Garnacha, Tempranillo, Cabernet H Penedès Mas de Carol Fermentato en Barrica★★✫ £C Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz, given 6 months in oak for extra weight and H Penedès Ginesta★★★ £C flesh. The Sacra Natural is a characterful blend of very old Cariñena with a H Penedès Calcari★★✫ £C little Merlot, Syrah and Tempranillo. The red L’Avi Arrufí, sourced from the H Penedès Blanc de Pacs★✫ £B highest vineyards on the estate and from 45-year-old vines, is really dark, spicy H Cava Blanca Cusiné★★✫ £C and minerally. The top wine is the Mather Teresina, a selection of the oldest ★★ H Cava Cuvée de carol £C vines and a non-vintage blend – the current release is a mix of 2002 and J Penedès Radixs★★ £B J Penedès Ros de Pacs★✫ £B 2001. (DM) Gratavinum ● Terra Alta Sacra Natural★★★ £C ● ★★★✫ Priorat 2PR £E ● Terra Alta L’Avi Arrufí★★★ £C ● ★★★★ >> PARTIDA BELLVISOS Priorat Terra Alta Mather Teresina £E ● Terra Alta Raig de Raïm★★ £C Sara Perez & René Barbier Jnr Crta Porrera, s/n 43730 Falset (Tarragona) ● Terra Alta Señora del Portal★★★ £E Tel: 977 830545 Fax: 639 121244 H Terra Alta Señora del Portal★ £B This is a very small bodega jointly owned by René Barbier Jnr from CLOS H Terra Alta L’Avi Arrufí★★ £C MOGADOR and his winemaker wife Sara Perez whose family own MAS MARTINET. Through their company they also produce the excellent PUJANZA Rioja www.bodegaspujanza.com Montsant wines at VENUS LA UNIVERSAL. The annual production is just Carlos San Pedro Ctra. del Villar s/n, 01300 Laguardia (Alava) 1,000 bottles a year at present and the wine is produced from steeply sloping Tel: 945 600548 Fax: 945 600522 vineyards planted on finely drained licorella soils, a form of schist. Around four A very impressive winery based in the Rioja Alavesa producing dense modern hectares are cultivated and the vines are of a significant age, over 60 years style Rioja’s.The bodega was established in 1998 and there is a vineyard which contributes to the rich, spicy old-vine tarry, blackberry complexity of holding of some 40 ha around the village of Laguardia planted in clay and 468 the wine. Partida Bellvisos is a blend of Garnacha Peluda (a variant of limestone soils. The Pujanza bottling is a 100% Tempranillo coming from 20 North-East Spain

year old vines and aged solely in French oak. Rich, ripe and supple the wine is property Lagar de Fornelos, where a straightforward, peachy, fruit-driven SPAIN full of dark-berry fruit and well judged oak. The Norte which comes from white, Lagar de Cervera is produced. At the La Rioja Alta winery the wines are older vines and mainly Tempranillo sees longer in new French oak is denser given considerable cask-ageing. The Viña Alberdi Reserva is the most modern and firmer with really impressive depth and concentration. The top wine the with a mere 2 years in oak, a high proportion of it new. The Gran Reservas Cisma is a seriously rich and structured red of considerable depth and 904 and 890 spend respectively 5 and 8 years in cask. There is no doubt that dimension. It comes with a seriously high price tag as well. (DM) the sheer quality of the fruit and the wines’ intensity is exemplary but releases ● Rioja Pujanza Cisma★★★★★ £G tasted throughout the last 10 years have been patchy. A new state-of-the-art ● Rioja Pujanza Norte★★★★✫ £F winery has also been completed in the Ribera del Duero and the first wines are ● Rioja Pujanza★★★✫ £D now being marketed under the Aster brand. Ripe and spicy examples of the DO they are not yet at quite the level of leaders of the appellation. Prior to this REMELLURI Rioja www.remelluri.com the fruit from the first seven harvests was sold to other producers. (DM) Rodríguez family Ctra. Rivas de Tereso, s/n Labastida, 01330 Alava Tel: 945 331801 Fax: 945 331802 La Rioja Alta This has now been established as one of the best of the new-wave Rioja ● Rioja Viña Alberdi Reserva★★ £D ● ★★ producers for more than a decade. Telmo RODRIGUEZ, responsible for Rioja Viña Arana Reserva £D ● Viña Ardanza Reserva★★★ £E building the reputation of the bodega, has a number of other projects as well, Rioja ● Rioja 904 Gran Reserva★★★✫ £F producing wines in many of Spain’s major appellations. There are 90ha planted ● Rioja 890 Gran Reserva★★★★ £G in the Rioja Alavesa and the vineyards are tended organically. French rather Bodega Torre de Oña than American oak is used during the wine’s élevage and the style provides ● Rioja Barón de Oña Reserva★★✫ £D greater fruit than is normally the case in the region. The Reserva and Gran Reserva, particularly, are structured and will stand some ageing – the latter will Bodega Aster ● ★★★ be all the better for 5 or 6 years in your cellar. The Crianza is supple and Ribera del Duero Reserva £D approachable. (DM) Lagar de Fornelos H Rías Baixas Lagar de Cervera★★★ £C ● Rioja Crianza★★✫ £C ● ★★★ Rioja Reserva £E CELLERS RIPOLL SANS Priorat www.closabatllet.com ● Gran Reserva★★★✫ £F Rioja Marc Ripoll C/ Baixada, Consolació, 4, Gratallops, 43737 Tarragona REMÍREZ DE GANUZA Rioja www.remirezdeganuza.com Tel: 977 839361 Fax: 977 839361 Fernando Remírez de Ganuza Constitución 1, 01307 Samaniego This is a very good recently established small Priorat estate. Both red and white Tel: 941 609022 Fax: 945 623335 examples are made in artisan style and quantity. Marc Ripoll has some Top-quality Rioja bodega based in the Rioja Alavesa with 57ha under vine. excellent terraced vineyards and vines up to 90 years of age which contribute Three good to exceptional reds of real distinction are produced and the significantly to the dense, black-fruited, mineral-laden red. Firmly structured Trasnocho is one of the region’s great wines. In addition an easy-drinking, and ageworthy, it is a blend of Cariñena, Garnacha with small amounts of forward wine, Erre Punto R, is mainly produced by carbonic maceration. The Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Syrah. The wine is aged in a mix of richly textured Fincas de Ganuza Reserva is an immediately appealing blend French and American oak for just over a year. There is a white produced solely dominated by Tempranillo. The tannin is supple and round and it will drink from the local Escanyavella and is a fruit-driven style for early drinking. (DM) well young. The Reserva is more classically structured. Tight and restrained in ● Priorat Closa Batllet★★★★ £F its youth, it is a wine marked more by its elegance than its weight or RODA Rioja concentration. Give it 4 or 5 years at least. By contrast, the opulent and exotic Rottlan-Daurella family Av.Vizcaya, 5 Haro, 26200 La Rioja Trasnocho is a massive, highly extracted but marvellously balanced Tel: 941 303001 Fax: 941 312703 Tempranillo: pricey but one of the very best of the new wave of Rioja reds. It Impressive 50-ha Rioja property producing two Reservas and a new-wave can be surprisingly open; however, this a wine that will add complexity with Rioja super-cuvée, the very pricey Cirsion. The property was established in age. (DM) 1986 but much of the vineyard is over 30 years old. Current plantings ● ★★★★ Rioja Remirez de Ganuza Reserva £E comprise mainly Tempranillo with a smattering of Graciano and Garnacha. ● Rioja Trasnocho★★★★★ £G Roda I is the flagship of the two Reservas, powerful and concentrated but with ● Rioja Fincas de Ganuza Reserva★★★ £D the characteristic underlying spicy, berry fruit character of Tempranillo. Roda II LA RIOJA ALTA Rioja www.riojaalta.com is lighter but still much more than a second wine. Cirsion is rich, structured La Rioja Alta Group S.A. Avda de Vizcaya, s/n 26200, Haro-La Rioja and cedary – a wine of great finesse and breeding. (DM) Tel: 941 310346 Fax: 941 312854 ● Rioja Roda I Reserva★★★★ £F ● Rioja Roda II Reserva★★★★ £E This is one of the most fiercely traditional of the old Rioja bodegas. It is a ● Rioja Cirsion★★★★★ £H moderately sizeable operation with a production of around 40,000 cases a year. TELMO RODRÍGUEZ Rioja It was originally founded in 1890 and some founding families still have a share in the company. It is renowned for some of the very best traditional Reservas Telmo Rodríguez Siete Infantes de Lara, 5, 26006 Logroño and Gran Reservas. Interests include the Bodega Torre de Oña, also in Rioja, Tel: 941 511128 Fax: 941 511131 where a modern, fruit-driven Baron de Oña is made and the Rías Baixas Telmo Rodriguez is one of Spain’s great winemaking stars. From his base in 469 North-East Spain

Logroño he produces an extensive range of wines from throughout the country ● Rioja La Cueva del Contador★★★★✫ £G in highly diverse styles. A good, fresh, fruit-driven Rueda, Basa Blanco, is ● Rioja Predicador★★★✫ £E vinified from mainly Viura. Three good to very good examples of Ribera del ROTLLÁN I TORRA Priorat www.closabattlet.com Duero are produced including the exceptional Matellana which is rich, dense Rotllán family Balandra, 8, Torroja del Priorat, 43737 Tarragona and full of dark fruit and smoky spices. It will improve for a decade or more. Tel: 902 177000 Fax: 933 050112 The Rioja Lanzaga is medium weight with typical light berry Tempranillo Jordi Rotllan’s family estate of 24ha was founded in 1984 and now offers some fruit, whereas the Altos de Lanzaga is rich, stylish and impressively structured excitingly dark, spicy and fiery examples of this appellation, arguably the with well-integrated oak and very good depth. Toro is increasingly a source of greatest now for reds. As well as the three bottlings rated below, the firm has some of Spain’s most exciting up-and-coming reds and the well-priced Dehesa

SPAIN also now released a Gran Reserva from both the 1995 and 96 vintages. The Gago and opulent, spicy Pago La Jara are no exception. Expect the La Jara to Balandra is 50% Garnacha, 25% Cariñena and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and develop well with 7–10 years’ ageing. Some fine reds are also produced from is aged for 10 months in American oak. The more sophisticated Amadis also lesser areas. From Cigales comes the leafy, light berry-fruited Viña 105. There has some Syrah and Merlot blended in and is aged in finer French oak. The are two vino de la tierra bottlings. Pegaso comes from Castilla y Leon and is Tirant is a similar blend but includes very old (up to 100 years) Garnacha and tight and well crafted, less obviously extracted than some of Rodriguez’s wines Cariñena. Aged in new French oak with malolactic fermentation in barrel, this but very classy. The recently added Montazo is sourced from 50-year-old vines is the richest and finest of the trio and will improve in bottle for up to 15 near Madrid. It is rich and forward, almost jammy. Of particular interest here years. (DM) is the splendid Moscatel-based Málaga, Molino Real, which like the top wines ● Priorat Balandra★★★ £D from LOPEZ HERMANOS has remarkable richness and intensity. All the top ● Priorat Amadís★★★ £E (DM) reds will develop very well with age. ● Priorat Tirant★★★★ £E ● Ribera del Duero Matellana★★★★★ £G ● Ribera del Duero M2★★★ £E BODEGAS SAN ALEJANDRO Calatayud www.san-alejandro.com ● Ribera del Duero Gazur★★★ £E Co-operative Ctra. Calatayud-Cariñena, 50330 Miedes de Aragón (Zaragoza) ● Rioja Altos de Lanzaga★★★★ £F Tel: 976 892205 Fax: 976 890540 ● ★★ Rioja Lanzaga £C This sizeable Aragon co-op was established in 1962 and now numbers around ● ★★✫ Cigales Viña 105 £C 300 growers who between them control around 1,100ha of vineyards. As a ● Pago La Jara★★★★ £E Toro result of this a range of wines is offered and the Baltasar labelled reds stand out. ● Toro Dehesa Gago★★★ £C The Gracian Expresión is produced from some of the best and oldest vineyard ● Vino de la Tierra Pegaso★★★ £D ● Vino de la Tierra Montazo★★★ £D blocks owned by the members. The wine is blended from a combination of H Málaga Molino Real★★★★ £E H Málaga MR Moscatel★★ £B just over 50% 75–80-year-old Garnacha and younger Tempranillo and Syrah. Aged in a combination of French and American oak with malolactic >> BENJAMIN ROMEO Rioja fermentation in barrel, the wine is full of spicy, dark berry fruit and just the Benjamín Romeo 23668 San Vicente de Sonsierra (La Rioja) merest hint of vanilla. Other wines to consider are the Garnacha Vendimmia Tel: 941 334228 Fax: 955 601672 Seleccionada, the splendid Garnacha Viñas Viejas, full of herb spice old-viney One of the greatest names in Rioja, Benjamin Romeo’s top wines have character and there is a Crianza blended from Garnacha, Tempranillo and achieved close to cult status. Romeo was originally the winemaker at another Syrah and a Reserva which includes Cabernet rather than Syrah. A roble style great Rioja bodega, ARTADI. He is dedicated to making wines of the highest red is also made from Tempranillo along with a rosado from Garnacha and a quality and his vineyards are farmed organically and biodynamically. In the white from Macabeo. (DM) winery red fermentation as well as ageing is carried out in wood. Sulphur levels ● Calatayud Baltasar Gracián Garnacha Viñas Viejas★★★✫ £D are kept to an absolute minimum and the wines are bottled without filtration. ● Calatayud Baltasar Gracián Expresión★★★ £C His modern styled reds are uncompromisingly rich and concentrtated ● Calatayud Baltasar Gracián Vendimia Selecionada★★✫ £C examples of the region, nevertheless possessing a subtle underlying finesse and balance that underpins the deep and dark-fruited Tempranillo from which they CELLER JOAN SANGENIS Priorat are mainly vinified. The Predicador, by contrast with the other reds is Joan Sangenis Prat de la Riba, 4, 43739 Porrera approachable both in terms of its supple fruit-driven structure and its price tag. Tel: 977 828045 La Cueva del Contador, like the other wines gets a pre-fermentation cold-soak Like many of the producers here, Joan Sangenis established this property very and then malolactic in barrel and is aged for 18 months in oak. La Viña de recently, in 1995. There are 80ha under vine planted on south-facing slopes Andrés comes from a single small plot and is named after Benjamins father. It and the winery is modern and well equipped with stainless steel and is a touch more extracted than La Cueva and gets longer on its skins, over temperature control. The Cal Pla labels are lighter and more fruit-driven, the three weeks. The formidably dense and structured Contador is among the white coming from a blend of Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo and Moscatel, the greatest reds in Rioja and comes from very ancient vines, up to 80 years old. red from Garnacha and Cariñena. This, like the Crianza Mas d’En Compte, is Ageing for a minimum of 10 years is recommended. In addition to the reds a bottled without fining or filtration. The Mas d’En Compte comes from all old white, Qué Bonita Cacareaba, is also produced which is a barrel-fermented vines, Cariñena (45%), Garnacha (50%) and just 5% of Cabernet Sauvignon. blend of Garnacha Blanco, Viura and Malvasia. (DM) It is aged for 14 months in French oak. Rich and full, it is more fruit-driven in style than some of the more fiery examples of Sangenis’ neighbours. The ● Rioja Contador✪✪✪✪✪ £H 470 ● Rioja La Viña de Andrés Romeo★★★★✫ £G Barrel-fermented white comes from 60% Garnacha Blanca, the balance being California North Coast

Dynamic pace among small, high-quality wine producers is evident both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and some fine Syrah and Merlot. CALIFORNIA throughout California, and this is as much the case here as elsewhere in the Sonoma Valley state. As well as the more established cooler areas like the Russian River, The Sonoma Valley AVA itself is located to the south of Santa Rosa and is new vineyards are now being developed on the Sonoma Coast with great home to some of the largest producers on the North Coast. The valley is success. Wine prices remain buoyant – a wealthy local market combined bordered by the Mayacamas range to the east and the Sonoma Mountains to with scarcity among the top wines ensures this. There are great Cabernets the west. The appellation runs from north to south-east through the towns of here but this is generally Chardonnay and Pinot Noir territory, with some Oakmount, Kenwood, Glen Ellen and Sonoma itself. The western range has exceptional Zinfandel in warmer sites. Some magnificent wines, yes, but its own AVA, Sonoma Mountain, and provides impressive examples of without the stratospheric prices of the Napa Valley collectors’ Cabernets. restrained Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. In general the better reds are planted in the warmer northern sections of the AVA while the Geography southern sector that borders Carneros produces stylish whites but also good The North Coast of California is a vast area. It takes in Mendocino and Lake Pinot Noir. Some of the best and sturdiest Cabernet blends and Zinfandels are Counties, over 100 miles to the north of San Francisco, as well as Sonoma sourced from the higher slopes leading into the Mayacamas County, which runs southwards west of the Mayacamas Mountains and then Mountains.Mountains. takes in the western end of Carneros. The whole viticultural area is encompassed under the North Coast AVA. What enables such diverse A-Z of producers by region vinegrowing is cool breezes and sea fogs that drift in through coastal gaps. The most significant of these – the Petaluma gap – provides an effective cooling Alexander Valley PAX WINE CELLARS PORTER CREEK VINEYARDS fan for the vast Sonoma vineyard, north and south of the town of Santa Rosa. CLOS DU BOIS GEYSER PEAK RADIO-COTEAU It is only thanks to these cooling breezes and sea fogs, which dominate the SAUSAL J ROCHIOLI summer months along the state’s coastline all the way south towards Santa SIMI SELBY STONESTREET SKEWIS WINES Barbara, that fine wine production is possible in California at all. SIDURI Mendocino and Lake Counties Anderson Valley SONOMA-CUTRER EDMEADES JOSEPH SWAN Mendocino is a large, sprawling vinegrowing area, mostly cool and suitable for GOLDENEYE WILLIAMS SELYEM Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Anderson Valley, which opens up to the ROEDERER ESTATE Sonoma Coast ocean, produces a number of restrained, stylish examples and is also an Chalk Hill FLOWERS excellent source of sparkling wine. To the north-east are the warmer AVAs of CHALK HILL WINERY MARCASSIN Redwood Valley and Potter Valley. Some increasingly impressive Syrah, PEAY VINEYARDS Zinfandel and Cabernet are grown here. Lake County and the Clear Lake Dry Creek Valley TANDEM AVA, Guenoc and Benmore Valley sub-AVAs are located to the east, across BELLA VINEYARDS Sonoma County COLLIER FALLS VINEYARD CARLISLE the Mayacamas Mountains. Clear Lake and Guenoc are best-suited to growing DRY CREEK VINEYARDS PAUL HOBBS FRICK reds – Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel – as well as a ripe style of KENDALL JACKSON FRITZ WINERY Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Benmore Valley by contrast is significantly MACRAE FAMILY GALLO OF SONOMA 565 MATANZAS CREEK cooled by elevation and provides tighter, more restrained Chardonnay. VINEYARD OF PASTERICK MAYO FAMILY A RAFANELLI NOVY Northern Sonoma SEGHESIO WH SMITH This is really the heartland of North Coast vinegrowing and it includes the TIN BARN warm red-grape areas of Dry Creek Valley and Alexander Valley to the north- Knights Valley Sonoma Mountain east. These are located to the west and east respectively of the meandering PETER MICHAEL BENZIGER northern sections of the Russian River which runs through the towns of Asti, Lake County LAUREL GLEN Geyserville and Healdsburg. Tremendous Zinfandel and Syrah can be found in STEELE both AVAs. Excellent restrained Chardonnay, structured Cabernet and Sonoma Green Valley Russian River Valley HARTFORD FAMILY WINERY meritage styles are all sourced from the higher mountain slopes of the HARTFORD COURT ADRIAN FOG Alexander Valley. To the immediate east of here is the Knights Valley, source of IRON HORSE VINEYARDS DEHLINGER MARIMAR TORRES some first-class Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Chalk Hill AVA is just DUMOL to the south and is dominated by the winery of the same name. South of DUTTON-GOLDFIELD Sonoma Valley MERRY EDWARDS Healdsburg the considerable expanse of the Russian River Valley AVA opens ARROWOOD GARY FARRELL CHATEAU ST JEAN out. To the far west on the Sonoma Coast some very impressive Chardonnay FISHER VINEYARDS HANZELL FOPPIANO and Pinot Noir is now being produced and takes the Sonoma Coast AVA. The KAMEN ESTATE HALLECK Russian River area is now very well established as a source of exemplary Pinot LANDMARK WALTER HANSEL MOON MOUNTAIN VINEYARD Noir and Chardonnay and, in the warmer eastern sites, very good Syrah and KISTLER DAVID NOYES Zinfandel. To the south-west is the distinctly cool. Sonoma Green Valley AVA, LA CREMA RAVENSWOOD LYNMAR WINERY a source of top-quality sparkling wines and restrained styles of Chardonnay SPANN VINEYARDS MARTINELLI and Pinot Noir. Just to the south of Santa Rosa and nestled into the Sonoma ST FRANCIS VINEYARDS 585 ROBERT MUELLER VERITÉ Mountains is the new Bennett Valley appellation which is an exciting source of PAPAPIETRO PERRY California North Coast

1 2 MENDOCINO

3 LAKE Navarro Ukiah 4 COUNTY

6 Clear Lake 7 9 5

CALIFORNIA 10 1 Redwood Valley 8 3&8 2 Potter Valley 3 Mendocino Cloverdale 11 4 Clear Lake RUSSIAN RIVER 5 Mendocino Ridge 12 13 Napa Valley & Carneros 6 Anderson Valley SONOMA 14 map (not to scale) 7 Cole Ranch Healdsburg 8 Yorkville Highlands 15 9 Benmore Valley 16 10 McDowell Valley 18 11 Guenoc Valley Santa Rosa 17 20 12 Dry Creek Valley Sebastopol 19 13 Alexander Valley 14 Knights Valley Sonoma 15 Chalk Hill 21 21 16 Russian River Valley 20 17 Sonoma County Green Valley 18 Sonoma Coast 19 Sonoma Mountain 20 Sonoma Valley 21 Carneros

California Central Coast map (not to scale)

586 California North Coast

California North Coast vintages like the Savoy is planted to a range of clones adding to the wines potential CALIFORNIA As is the case elsewhere in California, there can be significant variation between complexity. The climate is a touch cooler with the vineyard planted at a mesoclimates within regions with inevitably Cabernet, Zinfandel and other late slightly higher altitude. This shows in the wine which is a tighter, more ripening varieties working best in the warmer sites and early-ripening structured example. Subtle blueberry fruit needs time to express itself. All the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir performing best in the cooler parts of the Russian wines are aged in a mix of new and used oak and are bottled unfined and River, Sonoma Coast and Sonoma Green Valley. However the charts below unfiltered. (DM) ● ★★★★★ will give you a good general idea of what to expect from recent vintages. With Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley £F ● ★★★★★ regard to earlier years, the occasional 1987, 1985, 1984 and 1980 Cabernet Pinot Noir Oppenlander Vineyard Mendocino County £F ● Hunnicutt Vineyard Sonoma Coast★★★★✫ £F and perhaps really top-flight Zinfandel might be worth a punt. 1978 and 1970 Pinot Noir were also classic Cabernet years. ARROWOOD Sonoma Valley www.arrowoodvineyards.com Constellation 14347 Sonoma Highway, Glen Ellen, CA 95442 Tel: 707 935-2600 Fax: 707 938-5947 California North Coast vintage chart Dick Arrowood has sold his interest in this medium-sized operation but remains as winemaker and directs the style and focus of the winery. There is no Pinot Noir Chardonnay Zinfandel Cabernet Sauvignon doubt that his immense experience, gained not only at Arrowood but also 2008 ★★★✫ A ★★★✫ A ★★★★ A ★★★★ A previously as winemaker at CHATEAU ST JEAN, will continue to maintain and 2007 ★★★★ A ★★★★ B ★★★✫ A ★★★★✫ A drive quality here. The wines themselves are all sourced from Sonoma Valley fruit. There are two ranges: the premium Arrowood wines and those under the ★★★✫ ★★★✫ ★★★ ★★★★ 2006 B B B A Grand Archer label. The latter can offer very good value and are vinified with 2005 ★★★★ B ★★★★ B ★★★ B ★★★★ A just a hint of oak, the objective being to emphasise varietal character. There is a 2004 ★★★★ B ★★★★ B ★★★ B ★★★★ A fairly extensive range of premium Arrowood bottlings: classy citrusy Chardonnay from Sonoma County as well as Chardonnay, Cabernet and ★★★★ ★★★★ ★★★★ ★★★★ 2003 B B B B Merlot under the Réserve Spéciale label. Alary Ranch Chardonnay was added 2002 ★★★★ B ★★★★ C ★★★ C ★★★★✫ B with the 2000 vintage and Alta Vista Vineyard with the 2001. Malbec and 2001 ★★★★ C ★★★★ C ★★★★ C ★★★★✫ B Rhône styles are of equal importance, the best of which are from Saralee’s Vineyard and most recently Syrah from the Kuljian Vineyard in Dry Creek. ★★★✫ ★★★✫ ★★★ ★★✫ 2000 C C C D Also added are red and white Rhône blends Côte de Lune, the latter again 1999 ★★★★ C ★★★★ D ★★★★ C ★★★✫ B sourced from Saralee. The Arrowood range is completed by Gewürztraminer, 1998 ★★★★ C ★★★★ D ★★✫ D ★★★ C fine Pinot Blanc and two luscious late-harvest Rieslings. (DM) ● Cabernet Sauvignon Réserve Spéciale Sonoma County★★★★ £G 1997 ★★★★ D ★★★★ D ★★★✫ D ★★★★ C ● Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County★★★ £F 1996 ★★★✫ D ★★★ D ★★★✫ D ★★★✫ C ● Syrah Saralee’s Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★ £F ● Syrah Sonoma Valley★★★✫ £F 1995 ★★★✫ D ★★★✫ D ★★★★ C H Chardonnay Sonoma County★★★✫ £E 1994 ★★★★ D H Viognier Saralee’s Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★ £E H Côte de Lune Saralee’s Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★ £C BELLA VINEYARDS Dry Creek Valley Lynn & Scott Adams 9711 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448 A-Z of producers Tel: 707 473-9171 Fax: 707 473-9420 This small Dry Creek operation has the benefit of some very old Zinfandel and the wines offer excellent value. The Adams, who began making wine in ADRIAN FOG Russian River Valley www.adrianfog.com 1999, farm three vineyards in the Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys. Jane Farrell & Stewart Dorman PO Box 1706. Healdsburg CA 95448 Winemaking input comes from former RIDGE winemaker Michael Dashe Tel: 707 431-1174 Fax: 707 431-1190 who also makes wine under his own Dashe Cellars label. At the winery site This is a small Pinot Noir only operation producing wines of very high quality. caves for cellaring the wine were completed in 2003 and provide an ideal As well as the wines rated below a tiny amount of wine is produced from the temperature and humidity controlled environment for the cellars. There is a Two Sisters vineyard in the Russian River Valley. The Hunnicutt bottling spicy and exuberant rosé which is blended from Syrah and Cabernet comes from a site just a few miles inland of the coast. Although typically cool Sauvignon. More serious though are the reds. Small quantities are also in climate the intensity of the red berry fruit character is helped by the level of produced of Petite Sirah and some additional single vineyard Syrah and Zin. sun exposure the vineyard gets. Both the Mendocino wines have remarkable The Sonoma County Syrah is a blend of all three vineyards and is a vibrant, depth and persistence. The Savoy Vineyard bottling is marked not just by ripe forward example with ripe spicy licorice fruit and hints of black pepper. The and pure notes of dark berry and cherry but also by its minerality and fresh Alexander Valley Reserve Zinfandel includes some very old vine fruit and is acid structure. Planted on the eastern slopes of the Anderson Valley the vines supple, ripe and forward with a rich, silky texture. The Big River Ranch single crop at barely more than a ton and a half to the acre. The Oppenlander site, vineyard bottling is firmer and more structured but still possesses copious 587 California North Coast

quantities of dark, spicy fruit. This in particular will develop well over the pepper are all in evidence. The Papa’s Block bottling, is picked late, at the medium term. (DM) beginning of November and is more structured and refined with a lovely pure ● Zinfandel Big River Ranch Alexander Valley★★★★ £E minerality to its fruit. Last to come in is the Bennett Valley Syrah, it offers ● Syrah Sonoma County★★★✫ £E more elegance and a marvellous depth and persistence of fruit. All of these ● Zinfandel Reserve Alexander Valley★★★✫ £E wines are ageworthy, in particular the Syrahs and all are well worth seeking J Rosé Sonoma County★★ £D out. (DM) ● ★★★★★ BENZIGER Sonoma Mountain www.benziger.com Syrah Papa’s Block Russian River Valley £E ● Syrah Bennett Valley★★★★★ £E Mike Benziger 1883 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen, CA 95442 ● Syrah Dry Creek Valley★★★★✫ £E Tel: 707 935-3000 Fax: 707 935-3016 ● Two Acres Red Two Acres Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★★ £E Large, family-run operation producing an extensive range of wines. The best ● Zinfandel Carlisle Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★★ £E are very good and by comparison with many other California examples good ● Zinfandel Bacchi Ranch Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £E value. The family also owns the Imagery Estate winery, which sells a good- ● Zinfandel Tom Feeney Ranch Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £E quality range from lesser varieties at the tasting room only. Sonoma County ● Zinfandel Pietro’s Ranch Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £E wines are straightforward and good value whereas the Reserves are blended CHALK HILL WINERY Chalk Hill www.chalkhill.com from the winery’s best lots. Numerous limited-production, vineyard-designated wines are made, with some of the vineyards farmed biodynamically. (DM) Fred Furth 10300 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg, Sonoma County, CA 95448 Tel: 707 838-4306 Fax: 707 838-9687 ● Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Sonoma County★★★✫ £F ● Merlot Reserve Sonoma County★★★ £F This producer unusually possesses its own AVA and has been for many years H Chardonnay Reserve Carneros★★★ £E committed to maximising the quality of the fruit from estate vineyards. The CALIFORNIA H Fume Blanc Sonoma County★★✫ £D whites are made in a full, ripe style with judicious use of new oak for both Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Vineyard Selection bottlings of both Pinot Gris CARLISLE Russian River Valley www.carlislewinery.com and Chardonnay have now been added to the range. The reds are leaner than Mike Officer PO Box 556, Santa Rosa, CA 95402 some, but at best express attractive, berry fruit character. Library Releases are Tel: 707 566-7700 Fax: 707 566-7200 also offered, along with a very small amount of the expensive Vineyard Mike Officer is making some of the most exuberant and characterful Selection Adele’s Merlot. An equally small production of rich and luscious Zinfandel in California, mainly from single vineyard sources and very old vine botrytised Semillon Vineyard Selection is produced when vintage conditions plantings. He is also fast becoming a regional benchmark for Syrah. As with permit. (DM) many of the best small producers in Sonoma he is warehouse based. As well as ● Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Chalk Hill★★★✫ £F the wines rated below Mike also makes a Sonoma County Syrah, a Dry Creek ● Merlot EstateChalk Hill★★★ £F Zinfandel and a Sonoma County Zin. Expect these to be of a uniformly high H Chardonnay Estate Chalk Hill★★★ £E standard and a touch easier on your wallet although the value to quality ratio H Sauvignon Blanc Estate Chalk Hill★★★ £E here is extremely good. It is also likely with the 2005 vintage that a Parsons H Pinot Gris Estate Chalk Hill★★✫ £D Ranch Syrah bottling from Sonoma County will be added, a dark and opulent CHATEAU ST JEAN Sonoma Valley www.chateaustjean.com wine of splendid potential. A number of very good Zins are produced from Foster’s Wine Estates 8555 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood, CA 95452 single vineyard sources. Most of these sites were planted up to a century ago by Tel: 707 833-4134 Fax: 707 833-4200 Italian immigrants. Often the Zinfandel is interplanted with other varieties The original and striking ‘Chateau’ here was built in 1920, pre-Prohibition. which undoubtedly adds complexity and character to Russian River examples. The current winery was founded in 1973 and the estate comprises some The Pietro’s Ranch bottling has up to 20% of other varieties, and is marked by 100ha (250 acres), of which 32ha (80 acres) are planted to vines. These, along rich and ripe fruit, lower than average acidity and big structured tannins. with three additional vineyards, Robert Young, Belle Terre and La Petite Etoile, Equally big and fleshy is the Tom Feeney Ranch bottling although it is suppler provide the foundation for the good and pricey Reserve and vineyard- and more approachable. The dry-farmed Bacchi Ranch comes from a little designated wines. Sonoma County wines are well-priced and regularly offer further north in the “Crucible” of the Russian River, Dry Creek and Alexander good-value drinking. A number of speciality and limited-release wines are sold Valleys. The wine is a touch riper, more spicy and with all the super exclusively at the tasting room. (DM) concentration and jammy characteristics of low-yielding, warm grown Zin. ● ★★ Perhaps the finest example, with the greatest purity of fruit, is that from the Pinot Noir Sonoma County £C ● Merlot Sonoma County★★ £C home Carlisle Vineyard. Almost 100% Zinfandel the wine offers an elegance H Chardonnay Belle Terre Vineyard Alexander Valley★★★✫ £E and freshness less evident in the other wines. The Two Acres Red comes from a H Chardonnay Sonoma County★★ £C vineyard planted in 1910 and planted to an unusual mix of 75% Mourvèdre, H Fume Blanc La Petite Etoile Russian River Valley★★★ £C 10% Mondeuse, 9% Petite Sirah, 4% Valdepeñas with the balance from H Fume Blanc Sonoma County★★✫ £C Alicante Bouschet. The varieties are picked separately and then co-fermented H Gewürztraminer Sonoma County★★✫ £C with the exception of the Mondeuse. The wine is loaded with dark berry fruit and oriental spices and would make for an interesting comparison with the CLOS DU BOIS Alexander Valley www.closdubois.com very greatest of Bandol. Syrah emerges in a number of guises. The Dry Creek Allied Domecq 19410 Geyserville Avenue, Geyserville, CA 95441 Valley wine is perhaps the fattest and most opulent. Rich, spicy fruit and black Tel: 707 857-3100 Fax: 707 857-1667 588 Large-volume winery producing close to half a million cases annually. The California North Coast

straightforward Sonoma County Classic range is the mainstay of the winery DRY CREEK VINEYARDS Dry Creek www.drycreekvineyard.com CALIFORNIA but can be impressive on occasion. Appellation Reserve wines are a step up, David Stare 3770 Lambert Bridge Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448 but it is the vineyard-designated and Winemakers Reserve cuvées which are the Tel: 707 433-1000 Fax: 707 433-5329 benchmarks here. Winemakers Reserve Cabernet and Marlstone in particular Medium-sized winery notable for good, well-priced Fumé Blanc in a very are dense, concentrated and well structured, the latter a blend of Cabernet much more herbaceous style than many and a number of rich and impressive Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot from the Zinfandels. The latter have been produced consistently over a number of vineyard of the same name. For value and style the two top Chardonnays are vintages and while full and vibrant they are rarely overblown. With old-vine subtly oaked, with good citrusy, leesy depth and a certain finesse. (DM) Zinfandel fruit increasingly in demand throughout the state, Dry Creek has ● Merlot Reserve Alexander Valley★★ £E established its own ‘Heritage’ clone, propagated from old-vine cuttings on ● Tempranillo Reserve Alexander Valley★★✫ £E phylloxera-resistant rootstock. A small quantity – some 500 cases – of a new ● Cabernet Sauvignon Winemakers Reserve Alexander Valley★★★✫ £F super-premium Cabernet Endeavour has also been released along with single- ● Cabernet Sauvignon Briarcrest Vineyard Alexander Valley★★★ £F vineyard Zinfandel from the Beeson and Somers Ranches, which have now ● ★★★ Marlstone Alexander Valley £F replaced the Reserve bottling. (DM) H Chardonnay Flintwood Dry Creek Valley★★★ £E ● Syrah Dry Creek Valley★★✫ £E H Chardonnay Calcaire Russian River Valley★★★ £D ● Merlot Sonoma County★★ £D H Chardonnay Reserve Alexander Valley★★ £D ● Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley★★ £E >> COLLIER FALLS Dry Creek Valley www.collierfalls.com ● Zinfandel Heritage Clone Sonoma County★★✫ £C ● ★★★ Barry Collier 9931 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448 Zinfandel Old Vine Sonoma County £D H Fume Blanc Sonoma County★★ £C Tel: 707 433-7373 Fax: 707 433-7780 H Chardonnay Russian River Valley★★✫ £D Collier Falls Vineyard was originally planted with 8 acres (3.2 ha) of Zinfandel in 1982. When Barry and Susan Collier bought the Vineyard DUMOL Russian River Valley www.dumol.com in 1991, they added a further 11 acres (4.5 ha) of Zinfandel, Petit Syrah Kerry J Murphy & Michael Verlander 11 El Sereno,, Orinda, CA 94563 and Primitivo and 7 acres (2.8 ha) of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Tel: 925 254-8922 Fax: 925 254-8942 Franc and Petit Verdot. The wines are lush and alcoholic and winemaker Some very good Burgundian style wines are produced here along with a couple Mike Lancaster ages in both French and American oak to give the wines a of excellent Syrahs. The winemaker Andy Smith also crafts the wines at distinctive Californian style. There are vintage variations, for example the LARKMEAD in the Napa Valley. All the fruit comes from Russian River 2003 Dry Creek Zinfandel is lighter and more supple with good fruit vineyards and the Green Valley is a key source. The wines are themselves flavours than the 2004 which is much thicker although not jammy, but labelled by individual brands rather than by vineyards. Stylistically the wines has a good streak of acidity running through. Both achieve 15.5% of abv are very structured and require a little patience. Andy Smith believes the areas and their Primitivo is even higher with 16.5% which perhaps masks the climate provides grapes with ample richness and concentration and as a result fruit a little more than the Zinfandels. Nevertheless, there is a distinct is much less concerned with winemaking techniques enhancing the wines fruit rasiny fruit result with tastes of dried currants and nutmeg coming and extract. Chardonnay is barrel-fermented and aged on lees for 18 months through. A late harvest Primitivo disappoints by being neither sweet and natural yeasts are relied on for both fermentation and the malolactic. The enough or fruity enough and with its nuances of Earl Gray tea would be Isobel is impressively structured coming from the Charles Heintz Vineyard in difficult to match with any food. (NB) the Green Valley. The style of the wine is achieved by combining both an early ● Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley★★★★✫ £F and a later harvest ensuring excellent acidity as well as underlying richness. The ● Primitivo Dry Creek Valley★★★✫ £E ● Late-Harvest Primitivo Dry Creek Valley★★ £E Chloe cuvée comes from two vineyards: the warmer Kent Ritchie, which is ● Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley★★★✫ £F some distance inland, and Dutton Morelli Lane with a coastal influence. The wine has a marvellous balance of intense fruit, real weight and concentration DEHLINGER Russian River Valley all underpinned by a mineral purity. Of the Pinot bottlings, the Aidan and Tom Dehlinger 6300 Guerneville Road., Sebastopol, CA 95472 Ryan wines are from two vineyard blends in the Green Valley. Aidan is the Tel: 707 823-2378 Fax: 707 823-0918 more opulent of the two coming solely from Dijon clones, the Ryan is a touch Dehlinger remains among the very top echelon in the Russian River, more structured. Both offer richly dark plum and berry fruit and the mineral continually crafting outstanding unfiltered Pinot Noir, Syrah and Chardonnay. purity that characterises all the wines here. Aidan is touch more gamey, Ryan Cabernet Sauvignon does not quite hit the same heady heights, although it is more floral and aromatic. The best of the Pinots is Finn which comes from rich, structured and impressive in top years. There are quantities of single- two Russian River vineyards: Occidental Road and Widdoes. The latter is the vineyard Pinot Noir from the Goldridge site but availability is very limired but cooler of the two providing excellent acidity and small berried fruit of great well worth seeking out, as is the East Face Syrah. The reds are not only intensity. The Occidental gives the wine its rich dark-cherry fruit character. All powerful and structured but very refined as well, and will drink well in the the wines get a cold soak for five days and are fermented with native yeasts medium term. (DM) with malolactic in barrel. Syrah was produced for the first time with the 2000 ● Pinot Noir Estate Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £F vintage. Eddie’s Patch, sourced from steep east facing hillside slopes providing ● Syrah Estate Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £F fruit of very impressive intensity, is the most complete but both examples are ● Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Russian River Valley★★★★ £F very full and concentrated with dark, spicy blackberry fruit and a mineral edge. H Chardonnay Estate Russian River Valley★★★★ £E In addition to the above, Russian River Pinot Noir, Syrah and Chardonnay are 589 California North Coast

produced as well as a Viognier, Lia which is vinified without malolactic. The aware that this is the era of the winegower and not the winemaker and her wines will develop very well, the Syrahs for a decade and more. (DM) wines reflect this. Just one Sauvignon Blanc is produced from Russian River ● Pinot Noir Finn Russian River Valley★★★★★ £G fruit. The wine is almost piercingly gooseberry scented but has magnificent ● Syrah Eddie’s Patch Russian River Valley★★★★★ £G structure being fermented and aged in small French oak, a small proportion of ● Pinot Noir Aidan Green Valley★★★★✫ £G which is new and lees stirring is employed. There are now eight different Pinot ● Pinot Noir Ryan Green Valley★★★★✫ £G Noir bottlings with a number of single vineyard examples, and in addition to ● ★★★★✫ Syrah Jack Robert’s Run Russian River Valley £G those listed below are wines from her own Meredith Estate and Coopersmith H ★★★★★ Chardonnay Chloe Russian River Valley £G vineyards, as well as from the Flax and Tobias Glen Russian River sites. The H Chardonnay Isobel Green Valley★★★★✫ £F simplest and most accessible is the Sonoma Coast wine which is marked by its DUTTON-GOLDFIELD Russian River www.duttongoldfield.com cool climate coastal terroir with intense red cherry fruit. A high proportion of S. Dutton & D. Goldfield 825 Gravenstein Hwy N, Sebastopol CA 95472 new oak is used but is brilliantly integrated. The Russian River Valley wine is Tel: 707 823-3887 Fax: 707 829-6766 more opulent in style with a cold soak pre-fermentation and a richly supple Very impressive Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah from a range of sites, texture. It will drink very well young. A couple of superb single vineyard wines mostly in the cool Green Valley. Finely structured, very elegant and varietally are also produced. The Olivet Lane example is very finely structured with a pure Cherry Ridge Syrah emerges from one of the area’s warmer sites, whereas piercing red cherry character. By contrast, the Klopp Ranch bottling is much Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are both sourced from the cooler Dutton Ranch, fuller and loaded with rich plummy fruit and a real savoury character. Like all which is family owned. The east-facing Rued Vineyard is planted to the wines here a cold soak is employed adding depth and substance. (DM) Chardonnay now over 35 years old. The resulting wine has both a firm ● Pinot Noir Klopp Ranch Russian River Valley★★★★ £F structure and subtle minerality underpinning its lightly piercing tropical, citrus ● Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Russian River Valley★★★★ £F

CALIFORNIA ● ★★★✫ fruit. The Dutton Ranch bottling is more obviously fruit-driven without quite Pinot Noir Russian River Valley £E ● ★★★ the depth or persistence. Both wines are barrel-fermented on lees from a mix Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast £E H Russian River Valley★★★ £D of natural and added yeasts. Of the Pinots, McDougall Vineyard from the Sauvignon Blanc north-western Sonoma Coast and the Dutton Ranch are the most obviously GARY FARRELL Russian River Valley www.garyfarrell.com cool climate, with the McDougall bottling offering impressive depth and Allied Domecq 10701 Westside Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448 intensity. Fuller and more marked by dark plum fruit is the Devil’s Gulch Tel: 707 473-2909 Fax: 707 473-2901 Ranch from some of the steepest, lowest-yielding protected vineyards in Marin Formerly the winemaker at ROCHIOLI and DAVIS BYNUM, Gary Farrell has County. The Pinots all get 5–7 days’ cold soaking to lift their fruit and all the more recently become notable for stylish, elegant Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines are bottled with minimal processing and will benefit from 3–5 years’ under his own label, working with winemaker Susan Reed. The Rochioli ageing. (DM) vineyard remains an important source of fruit for him, along with Starr Ridge ● Pinot Noir Devil’s Gulch Ranch Marin County★★★★ £F and Cresta Ridge vineyards. An increasing number of vineyard designates are ● Pinot Noir McDougall Vineyard Sonoma Coast★★★★ £F being added, no doubt the operation benefitting from the Allied Domacq ● ★★★✫ Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley £F input. Chardonnay is made in a rich, tropical style but with well-judged oak, ● Cherry Ridge Vineyard Sonoma Green Valley★★★★ £F Syrah while Pinot is ripe, full and packed with dark plum and berry fruit. (DM) H Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley★★★✫ £E ● Russian River Valley★★★ £E H Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Rued Vineyard Sonoma Green Valley★★★★ £E Pinot Noir ● Pinot Noir Starr Ridge Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★✫ £F EDMEADES Anderson Valley www.edmeades.com ● Pinot Noir Rochioli Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★ £F ★★★ Kendall-Jackson 5500 Highway 128, Philo, CA 95403 H Chardonnay Russian River Valley £E H ★★★★ Tel: 707 895-3232 Fax: 707 895-3232 Chardonnay Rochioli Vineyard Russian River Valley £F Mendocino-based winery, producing an extensive range of full, brambly FISHER VINEYARDS Russian River Valley www.fishervineyards.com Zinfandels. The Mendocino vineyards for the Zinfandel are above the coastal fog line and the warm sunny days are complemented by cool nights, providing Fred & Juelle Fisher 6200 St Helena Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95404 good acidity for structured wines. They are typically big and brawny, offering Tel: 707 539-7511 Fax: 707 539-3601 weight and power rather than finesse. They are vinified using wild yeast The Fishers run one of the longest-established properties in the region, fermentation and, as in all the best Jackson family wines, handling is kept to a founded in 1973, producing top class reds and whites from some superbly minimum and fining and filtration eschewed. The focus is now on single- sited high-density vineyards in both Sonoma and Napa. Viticultural input comes from David Abreu and winemaking consultancy from Mia Klein. Of vineyard Zins. Top cuvées can be very impressive. (DM) the two great single-vineyard Cabernets, the Napa Valley-sourced Lamb ● Zinfandel Mendocino★★ £C Vineyard bottling is marginally richer, more chocolaty. The Sonoma County ● Zinfandel Ciapusci Mendocino Ridge★★★ £E Wedding Vineyard offers a touch more elegance with a fine minty MERRY EDWARDS Russian River Valley www.merryedwards.com undercurrent. Most accessible of the reds is the RCF Vineyard Merlot from the Merry Edwards 830 DenBeste Court. Suite B, Windsor CA 95492 Napa – rich, forward and fruit-driven with dark, spicy plum fruit and supple Tel: 707 838-9950 Fax: 888 388-9050 tannins. The Cameron Red blends roughly equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon Merry Edwards has been working with wine since 1974 and produces a small and Merlot with the balancing third from Cabernet Franc and Malbec. and impeccable range of Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. She is now very Sourced from the Fishers’ youngest Napa Valley vines, it offers a fine balance of 590 California North Coast

opulent berry fruit, nicely judged new wood and impressive persistence. The FRICK Dry Creek Valley www.frickwinery.com CALIFORNIA blackcurrant- and tobacco-scented Coach Insignia Cabernet Sauvignon is the Bill & Judy Frick 23072 Walling Road, Geyserville, CA 95441 flagship blended red with fruit coming from the north-east of the valley along Tel: 707 857-1980 Fax: 707 857-1980 the Pallisade Mountains and the eastern hills above Oakville as well as some Small Rhône specialist with some Merlot as well and further interesting releases Merlot from Sonoma Mountain. Chardonnay is both very impressive and well are planned from Carignane, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Noir and Counoise. priced. The firm structure of both bottlings is achieved by using fruit grown at Frick produces just 2,500 cases a year from 2ha (5 acres) of vines on a small altitude and partial malolactic fermentation. The Whitneys Vineyard has just a property established in 1976 in a cooler sector of the Dry Creek Valley. Key to touch more citrus intensity and depth but both will develop well with 4 or 5 the style here is a naturally stressed vineyard planted on steep, well-drained years’ age. Top reds are notably ageworthy. (DM) slopes. The result is vines which struggle just sufficiently in order to achieve ● Cabernet Sauvignon Lamb Vineyard Napa Valley★★★★★ £H fruit with real intensity. The wines are not huge blockbusters but nevertheless ● Cabernet Sauvignon Wedding Vineyard Sonoma County★★★★✫ £H show rich and concentrated fruit with balance and finesse. A Cinsault rosé is ● Cabernet Sauvignon Coach Insignia Napa Valley★★★★✫ £F also produced and new is C Squared, a Rhône-style blend of Cinsault and old- ● Cameron Red Napa Valley★★★★ £F vine Carignan from Mendocino. All offer good value. (DM) ● RCF Vineyard Napa Valley★★★✫ £F Merlot ● Syrah Owl Hill Dry Creek Valley★★★✫ £D H Mountain Estate Sonoma County★★★★ £F Chardonnay ● Cinsault Dry Creek Valley★★★ £D H Whitneys Vineyard Sonoma County★★★★ £F Chardonnay ● Merlot Conley Vineyard Dry Creek★★✫ £D ★★✫ FLOWERS Sonoma Coast www.flowerswinery.com H Viognier Gannon Vineyard Dry Creek Valley £D Flowers family 28500 Seaview Road, Cazadero, CA95421 FRITZ WINERY Dry Creek Valley www.fritzwinery.com Tel: 707 847-3661 Fax: 707 847-3740 Fritz family 24691 Dutcher Creek Road, Cloverdale, CA 95425 Very good Sonoma coastal property with vineyards planted in volcanic soils Tel: 707 894-3389 Fax: 707 894-4781 and moderated by cooling maritime breezes making for an ideal environment Fritz was established as long ago as 1979 and production is still small at some for cultivating Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Vinification follows age-old 12,000 cases a year. Grapes come from both the Dry Creek Valley and the Burgundian techniques for both varieties. As well as the wines rated here cooler Russian River, which provides an excellent source for Chardonnay, Chardonnay has also come from the Porter Bass Vineyard in western Sonoma, particularly the famed Dutton Ranch. Helen Turley of MARCASSIN spent a while Pinot Noir has emerged from the Keefer Ranch in the Sonoma Green couple of years consulting here and the quality shines through. Minimalist Valley AVA. The Andreen-Gale bottlings are a special vineyard selection from practices such as native yeast fermentation are employed. The Zins are vibrant within the family’s estate property, the Chardonnay being a selection of the and full of rich fruit, the Chardonnay broad, nutty and toasty. The range is oldest Wente clones. Chardonnay is restrained and minerally with a fine completed by a Russian River Pinot Noir and restrained cedary Cabernet balance of citrus fruit and subtle, lightly toasty oak. The Andreen-Gale is more Sauvignon. (DM) structured and intense. Pinot is full of bright berry fruit and hints of smoky ● Zinfandel Estate Dry Creek Valley★★★ £D cherries. The depth and intensity of the Andreen-Gale cuvée suggests 3 or 4 ● Zinfandel Rogers Reserve Dry Creek Valley★★★✫ £E years’ ageing will be rewarded. (DM) H Chardonnay Russian River Valley★★★ £D ● Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast★★★✫£E ● Pinot Noir Estate Camp Meeting Ridge Sonoma Coast★★★★ £F GALLO OF SONOMA Dry Creek Valley www.gallosonoma.com ● Pinot Noir Andreen-Gale Sonoma Coast★★★★✫ £F Gallo family 3387 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448 H Chardonnay Sonoma Coast★★★✫£E Tel: 707 431-5500 Fax: 707 431-5515 H Chardonnay Estate Camp Meeting Ridge Sonoma Coast★★★★ £F One of the world’s largest wine companies, E & J Gallo, is known the world H Chardonnay Andreen-Gale Sonoma Coast★★★★✫ £F over for its Gallo and Turning Leaf volume labels – the former hugely successful and very commercial. There is also a Coastal range from the giant FOPPIANO Russian River Valley www.foppiano.com facility at Modesto in California’s Central Valley, but it is the wines now Foppiano family 12707 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg, CA95448 produced from the vast Sonoma Valley vineyard holdings which provide the Tel: 707 433-7272 Fax: 707 433-0565 real interest. Seven vineyards are owned, spread throughout Sonoma from The Foppiano family own some 80ha (200 acres) of prime Russian River Barelli Creek in the north to Two Rock in the south. A sound range produced vineyards. There are good solid, earthy reds here: the Sangiovese is one of the under the Sonoma label is blended from separate lots and offers reasonable better Californian examples but the real stars are the two Petite Sirah cuvées. value. Better, though, are the selected single-vineyard wines, particularly the Both are dense, powerful but supple examples of this sometimes raw and rich and powerful, spicy, berry-fruited Zinfandel and the Estate Vineyard tannic variety. The Russian River bottling, with concentrated dark berry fruit Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. While the latter is not quite up there and spicy black pepper undercurrents, represents particularly good value. (DM) with the major super-premium Napa examples, it is an impressive wine and in ● Reserve Russian River Valley★★★✫ £E Petite Sirah the context of top-quality California Cabernet and meritage blends is ● Petite Sirah Russian River Valley★★★ £D moderately priced. (DM) ● Sangiovese Alexander Valley★★ £C ● ★★★★ ● Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley★✫ £C Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Northern Sonoma £G ● ★★✫ ● Merlot Sonoma County★✫ £C Cabernet Sauvignon Barelli Creek Alexander Valley £E ● ★★✫ ● Cabernet Sauvignon Russian River Valley★★ £D Cabernet Sauvignon Frei Ranch Dry Creek Valley £E ● Cabernet Sauvignon Stefani Vineyard Dry Creek Valley★★✫ £E 591 California North Coast

● Zinfandel Barelli Creek Alexander Valley★★★ £E core. The Gewürztraminer is subtle and restrained when compared with many ● Zinfandel Frei Ranch Dry Creek Valley★★★ £E Alsatian examples but there is a really impressive underlying richness and H Chardonnay Estate Northern Sonoma★★★✫ £F viscosity. The whites will develop well with a little age, the Pinots deserve a H Laguna Vineyard Russian River Valley★★✫ £E Chardonnay little patience. (DM) H Chardonnay Two Rock Sonoma Coast★★✫ £E ● Pinot Noir Three Sons Cuvée Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £E H Chardonnay Stefani Vineyard Dry Creek Valley★★★ £E H Sauvignon Blanc Piner Creek Ranch Russian River Valley★★★✫ £D GEYSER PEAK Alexander Valley www.geyserpeakwinery.com H Gewürztraminer Piner Creek Ranch Russian River Valley★★★✫ £D Ascentia Wine Estates 22281 Chianti Road, Geyserville CA 95441 WALTER HANSEL Russian River Valley Tel: 707 857-9400 Fax: 707 857-9402 Stephen Hansel PO Box 3437, Santa Rosa, CA 95402 This is a substantial operation with an extensive range. The varietal wines are Tel: 707 525-3614 Fax: 707 528-1310 generally sound and tend to emphasise straightforward fruit characters. The Stephen Hansel’s small Russian River winery is very low key in terms of numerous Block Collection wines are sourced from single vineyards and publicity but he produces some of the most strikingly impressive and well include Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Riesling and Viognier. The priced Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the Sonoma Valley, and California for Reserve wines including a cedary Cabernet and a meritage Bordeaux blend are that matter. The property was established by the late Walter Hansel, Stephen’s both aged in French oak for 18 months and are are crafted from the winery’s father and it remains small and commited to quality with Stephen Hansel best vineyards and lots. There is also a small quantity of a top and pricey relying not on the winery but a large auto dealership for a living. All the fruit Cabernet Bin 8. Throughout the range expect big, ripe fruit characters with for the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir comes from estate owned vineyards. A the top-label reds providing wines with weight and structure and good very decent Sauvignon Blanc is produced from bought-in Russian River fruit, cellaring potential up to 10 years. (DM)

CALIFORNIA particularly in vintages when the Chardonnay volumes are a little short. All the ● ★★★ Alexandre Meritage Reserve Alexander Valley £E Chardonnays are marked by a rich texture and a pure mineral character. The ● Reserve Alexander Valley★★★ £E Cabernet Sauvignon Cahill Lane bottling a touch more structured and poised than the full-throttle H Sauvignon Blanc California★✫ £B Russian River Valley wine. The splendidly dense and very concentrated Cuvée H Chardonnay Alexander Valley★✫ £B H Viognier River Road Ranch Russian River Valley★★✫ £D Alyce is a barrel-selection from the best barrels earmarked from the best blocks and gets a touch longer on lees. Of a splendid range of Pinot Noirs, the Cahill GOLDENEYE Anderson Valley www.goldeneyewinery.com Lane is perhaps the tightest, most elegant while the South Slope is more Dan & Margaret Duckhorn 9200 Highway 128, Philo CA 95466 opulent and exotic in style than a more structured North Slope example. A Tel: 707 895-3202 Fax: 707 895-3792 Three Rows bottling accounts for barely 50 cases a year and is loaded with Dan and Margaret DUCKHORN are responsible for distinctive, once almost dark and restrained berry fruit and beautifully judged oak. The top Pinot Noir ferocious Napa Merlots as well as the Paraduxx Zinfandels. Goldeneye is their is Cuvée Alyce which like the Chardonnay, is a selection both by the barrel and Anderson Valley property, specialising only in Pinot Noir. The vineyards stand from blocks that yield barely more than three-quarters of a ton to the acre (the out for their cool climate and the proximity of the Pacific coastline. The wine, average across the vineyard is closer to two tons). It is an extraordinarily dense, now sourced from five different vineyards, is dominated by bright strawberry rich and truly opulent example of the variety. Given the very fair prices these fruit, supple tannin and a marked vanilla character after spending 18 months wines are a must for any discerning drinker. (DM) in new French oak. It will drink very well with 2–3 years’ age. A second label, ● Pinot Noir Cuvée Alyce Russian River Valley★★★★★ £F Migration, is now also produced. (DM) ● Pinot Noir Three Rows Russian River Valley★★★★★ £E ● Pinot Noir Anderson Valley★★★✫ £F ● Pinot Noir North Slope Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £E ● Pinot Noir South Slope Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £E HALLECK Russian River Valley www.halleckvineyard.com ● Pinot Noir Cahill Lane Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £E Ross & Jennifer Halleck 3785 Burnside Rd, Sebastopol, CA 95472 H Chardonnay Russian River Valley★★★★★ £F Tel: 707 738-8383 Fax: 707 829-8170 H Chardonnay Cahill Lane Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £E Ross Halleck produces a number of brilliant Pinot Noirs as well as very good H Chardonnay Estate Russian River Valley★★★★ £E Sauvignon Blanc and a particularly unusual and very striking, minerally H Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley★★★ £D Gewürztraminer. Although now making the wines himself he has had HANZELL Sonoma Valley www.hanzell.com consultancy and much guidance from Greg La Follette at TANDEM. Indeed De Brye Estate Trust 18596 Lomita Avenue, Sonoma, CA 95476 both wineries share the same warehouse space. The first vintage was in 1999. Tel: 707 996-3860 Fax: 707 996-3862 His home vineyard is tiny just 0.4ha (1 acre) planted solely to Pinot Noir and Small producer located high up in the Mayacamas Mountains. Hanzell was although not tasted for this edition the wine produced is likely to be of a established way back in 1953 and has long been a pioneer of first-class similarly high standard. The second Pinot Noir Three Sons Cuvée is sourced Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from its hillside estate vineyard. The operation is from a number of carefully selected sites and with both components tasted out built on the quality of this mountain terroir. The Chardonnay is a tight, of barrel and tasted from bottle the wine offers an impressive mix of dark, structured example in its youth with well-judged oak and subtle citrus notes, spicy fruit, a lovely savoury character and an impressive underlying minerality. altogether different from many fuller, fatter examples produced by its The piercingly pure Sauvignon Blanc is fermented in a combination of neighbours. The Pinot is rich and vibrant, with concentrated dark berry stainless steel to preserve its fresh character and neutral oak to add depth and flavours and just a hint of game. Both wines will age well and will benefit from structure. It offers a fine mix of green, gooseberry fruit with a nice mineral 592 4 or 5 years’ ageing. (DM) California North Coast

● Pinot Noir Estate Sonoma Valley★★★✫ £G known as Green Valley), where it produces some of the best sparkling wines CALIFORNIA H Chardonnay Estate Sonoma Valley★★★★ £F in California. These are sourced from the lower-lying sites most affected by HARTFORD FAMILY WINERY www.hartfordcourt.com early-morning fog, which provide fruit with ideal acidity. There is a stylish Pinot Noir-dominated Wedding Cuvée, the Russian Cuvée with a slightly Hartford family 8075 Martinelli Road, Forestville, CA 95436 higher dosage and the Classic Vintage Brut, which is a blend of roughly Tel: 707 887-1756 Fax: 707 887-7158 60/40 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Impressively structured and elegant, the Founded in 1993 by Don Hartford and his wife Jennifer Jackson-Hartford, of Blanc de Blancs is only a touch below the quality of the much pricier Brut the KENDALL-JACKSON clan, this operation is dedicated to producing Pinot LD. An extensive range of still wines is also produced. The T-bar-T estate in Noir, Zinfandel and Chardonnay. Winemaker Mike Sullivan purposely crafts Alexander Valley provides the fruit for the super-premium Benchmark very Burgundian styles of Chardonnay and Pinot – tighter, more structured meritage red, which completes fermentation in barrel, and the white Cuvée wines than many of their neighbours’. Both are good medium-term cellar R, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and around a fifth Viognier aged like the propositions. Zinfandel is produced in a ripe, full style but retains real finesse. Benchmark in both French and American oak. From the cooler Green The Hartford label now encompasses just Zinfandel from the Russian River Valley come both Estate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as well as finely with a number of single vineyard wines from Dina’s, Fanucchi-Wood Road, structured Chardonnay from the very cool Corral Vineyard in the south of Hartford, Jolene’s and Highwire vineyards. In addition to this an extensive the Iron Horse estate. Sparkling wines should be drunk on release, while the range of single-vineyard cuvées is made under the Hartford Court label. Pinot Benchmark red in particular will stand a few years’ ageing. (DM) Noir comes from a number of sources: there are wines from Velvet Sisters ● ★★★✫ Vineyard in Anderson Valley, the Sevens Bench Vineyard in Carneros and T-bar T-Benchmark Alexander Valley £F ● Pinot Noir Sonoma-Green Valley★★★ £E Seascape Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast. Russian River Pinot is produced H Chardonnay Estate Sonoma-Green Valley★★★ £D from the Arrendell and Jennifer’s vineyards. Impressive Chardonnay comes H Chardonnay Corral Vineyard Sonoma-Green Valley★★★ £D from the Stone Côte and Seascape vineyards on the Sonoma Coast as well as H T-bar-T Cuvée R Alexander Valley★★ £C the Four Hearts bottling from the Russian River. All stand out. (DM) H Wedding Cuvée Sonoma-Green Valley★★✫ £D Hartford H Russian Cuvée Sonoma-Green Valley★★✫ £D ● Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast★★★ £D H Classic Vintage Brut Sonoma-Green Valley★★★ £E ● Zinfandel Russian River Valley★★★✫ £E H Blanc de Blancs Sonoma-Green Valley★★★✫ £E H Chardonnay Sonoma Coast★★★ £D H Brut LD Sonoma-Green Valley★★★★ £F Hartford Court KAMEN ESTATE WINES Sonoma Valley www.kamenwines.com H Chardonnay Four Hearts Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★ £E ● Pinot Noir Velvet Sisters Vineyard Anderson Valley★★★✫ £F Robert Kamen PO Box 1404 , Sonoma CA 95476 ● Pinot Noir Arrendell Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £F Tel: 707 933-1700 Fax: 707 933-1771 Estate in the south-western Mayacamas range with vineyards at an altitude of PAUL HOBBS Sonoma County www.paulhobbs.com 335m (1,100ft), growing the Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Paul Hobbs 3355 Gravenstein Highway North, Sebastopol, CA 95472 and Cabernet Franc as well as Syrah. The meagre, volcanic, rocky soils never Tel: 707 431-8303 Fax: 707 431-0708 produce yields beyond 1.5 tons/acre, resulting in wines with great intensity and Winemaker Paul Hobbs spends the northern-hemisphere spring months depth. Two reds are now produced, a pure varietal Estate Cabernet Sauvignon vinifying wines in South America, where he has helped in shaping the style at and with the 2006 harvest a Syrah. Winemaking consultancy is provided by VALDIVIESO in Chile and CATENA in Argentina. Indeed he has produced Mark Herold who now also produces his own Merus wines. (DM) COBOS his own premium Argentine Malbec, , from high altitude vineyards in ● Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Valley★★★★ £G the Upper Mendoza with partners Andrea Marchiori and Luis Barraud. Equally important, he also produces benchmark wines in California from KENDALL-JACKSON Sonoma County www.kj.com Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Chardonnay. His main Jackson family 337 Healdsburg Ave., Santa Rosa, CA 95403 focus is on single-vineyard wines, particularly an extensive number from Tel: 707 433-7102 Fax: 707 433-6215 Chardonnay, produced in very small quantities. Handling is minimal and the Vast, private wine company, founded by Jess Jackson, producing an extensive wines are vinified with wild yeasts. Oak is carefully integrated and the primary range under its own label and also owning or part-owning a considerable objective is to provide wines of balance and finesse. Top selections for number of wine operations in the premium-wine sector throughout California. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, labelled Cuvée Agustina, are unquestionably very Leading brands include Camelot (good value from the Central Coast), impressive and both very pricey and in short supply. (DM) EDMEADES, LA CREMA and Pepi, and the company also has interests in Italy ● Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley★★★✫ £G (Villa Arceno), Chile (Calina), Argentina (Tapiz) and Australia. Jess Jackson ● Pinot Noir Russian River Valley★★★★ £F and his wife Barbara Banke have connections with the HARTFORD FAMILY ● Pinot Noir Hyde Vineyard Carneros★★★★ £G WINERY and MATANZAS CREEK, as well as owning CAMBRIA, H Chardonnay Russian River Valley★★★✫ £F STONESTREET and VÉRITÉ, and a number of independently run estates have IRON HORSE VINEYARDS Sonoma-Green Valley been set up to produce top-quality reds. The LOKOYA wines emanate from single-vineyard, mountain-vineyard sites, while the ATALON labels are drawn Sterling family 9786 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol, CA 95472 from varied sources. The super-premium CARDINALE is blended from Napa Tel: 707 887-1507 Fax: 707 887-1337 and Sonoma fruit sources. Under the Kendall-Jackson logo, more affordable Like MARIMAR TORRES, Iron Horse is located in the cool Sonoma wines are offered as Vintners Reserve red and whites. The Grand Reserve label 593 County-Green Valley AVA (which may very shortly become officially California North Coast

is a step up, producing cool-climate wines from coastal vineyards. The top Chardonnay is the main focus, the Overlook label providing great value. Two wines under the K-J label are the newly established Highland Estates and the straightforward budget label Chardonnays are also now offered, Adobe very pricey Stature series. At the top end, the wines are certainly good without Canyon and Courtyard. The wines are in the rich, lightly tropical vein with the finesse and character shown in many of the Artisan Estates wines. (DM) nutty oak but impressive grip and structure as well. The Grand Detour Pinot ● Cabernet Sauvignon Stature Napa Valley★★★★ £G Noir is sourced from the high-altitude Van der Kamp vineyards of Sonoma ● Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Reserve California★★★ £E Mountain and the wine is structured and concentrated with a gamey ● Zinfandel Grand Reserve Mendocino/Solano Counties★★ £C undercurrent. In addition a small amount of equally impressive, ripe and H Chardonnay Grand Reserve California★★ £D forward Pinot Noir is produced from the Kastania Vineyard, to which has now KISTLER Russian River Valley been added a low-yielding Syrah Steel Plow, sourced from the Sonoma Mountain El Farolito Vineyard. (DM) Steve Kistler 4707 Vine Hill Road, Sebastopol, CA 95472 ● ★★★ Tel: 707 823-5603 Fax: 707 823-5603 Pinot Noir Sonoma County £F ● Grand Detour Sonoma Coast★★★★ £F This has long been a name associated with some of the greatest California Pinot Noir H Chardonnay Overlook California★★★ £E Chardonnay. More recently Steve Kistler has been producing some marvellous, H Chardonnay Damaris Reserve Sonoma County★★★★ £F rich and vibrant Pinot Noirs as well. Both varieties are made in very small lots H Chardonnay Lorenzo Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★ £F from a number of different sites throughout Sonoma as well as the Russian River Valley. The Kistler Vineyard, Durrell Vineyard, Dutton Ranch, Hudson LAUREL GLEN Sonoma Mountain www.laurelglen.com Vineyard, McCrea Vineyard, Vine Hill, Hirsch and Camp Meeting Ridge have Patrick Campbell Box 1419, Glen Ellen, CA 95442 all been sources of wines that are invariably of at least 4 star quality. Cuvée Tel: 707 526-3914 Fax: 707 526-9801 Cathleen is the top Chardonnay, while the ultimate expressions of Pinot Noir Small operation with some 16ha (40 acres) of prime vineyards planted to CALIFORNIA here are Cuvée Elizabeth from the Occidental Vineyard and Cuvée Catherine. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Sauvignon is very The Chardonnays are characterised by full, rich, honeyed notes along with an much the dominant variety. The property has thin, rocky and superbly drained elegant, mineral core; the Pinots can be explosive with youthful, weighty soils which provide an excellent base for producing around 3,000 cases a year tannins, suggesting real cellaring potential. (DM) of explosive Cabernet Sauvignon and a second wine Counterpoint. Patrick ● Pinot Noir Sonoma County★★★✫ £F Campbell also produces three excellent youthful gluggers. Reds is sourced from ● Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Valley✪✪✪✪✪ £H old bush vines at Lodi and is based on Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Carignane, H Chardonnay Sonoma County★★★✫ £F while Terra Rosa is a Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile’s Central Valley. More H Chardonnay Les Noisetiers Sonoma Coast★★★★✫ £G serious are Za Zin, produced from ancient vines planted in California’s Central H Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley★★★★★ £H Valley at Lodi, and Quintana, a dark vibrant Cabernet Sauvignon from a ✪✪✪✪✪ H Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard Carneros £H number of North Coast vineyard sources. Patrick Campbell is also involved H Kistler Vineyard Sonoma Valley✪✪✪✪✪ £H Chardonnay with Achaval-Ferrer in Argentina, producing super-premium Malbec. (DM) LA CREMA Russian River Valley www.lacrema.com ● Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain★★★★ £F ● ★★★ Kendall-Jackson 3690 Laughlin Road, Windsor, CA 95492 Counterpoint Sonoma Mountain £E ● ★★✫ Tel: 707 571-1504 Fax: 707 544-4013 Za Zin Lodi £C ● Lodi★✫ £B A smaller winery in the Kendall-Jackson empire, La Crema, originally Reds established in 1979, is owned and run by sisters Laura Jackson-Giron and LYNMAR WINERY Russian River Valley www.lynmarwinery.com Jennifer Jackson. It produces good, well-crafted and reasonably priced Pinot Lyn and Mara Fritz 3909 Frei Road, Sebastopol, CA 95472 Noir and Chardonnay, along with Pinot Gris, and Syrah. These are good value Tel: 707 829-3374 Fax: 707 829-0902 wines. The Chardonnay is typically ripe and exotic with tropical notes and Very good newly established Russian River winery with vineyards at their own evident oak, the reds are marked by forward, ripe berry fruit. Russian River Quail Hill Ranch. The first vintage released was 1996. Production is solely and Carneros bottlings are a step up. (DM) concentrated on hand-crafted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The regular estate ● Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast★★ £D bottlings now take the Russian River Valley label although they were originally ● Pinot Noir Russian River Valley★★★ £E designated Quail Vineyard. Reserves of both varieties are produced from the ● ★★★ Pinot Noir Carneros £E home Quail vineyards which are more restrained in style with greater depth H ★★✫ Chardonnay Sonoma Coast £C and intensity. The impressive limited-bottling Quail Cuvées were produced up H Chardonnay Russian River Valley★★★ £E to the 2002 vintage. The Quail Hill Chardonnay, particularly, is marked by LANDMARK Sonoma Valley www.landmarkwine.com super-ripe opulent fruit and layer upon layer of flavour. The Pinot Noirs are Colhoun family 101 Adobe Canyon Road, Kenwood, CA 95452 full of of rich dark berry fruit and spicy oak, varying from around 30% for the Tel: 707 833-0053 Fax: 707 833-1164 Russian River wine to 50% for the Quail Hill. Russian River Valley Syrah and Very fine and stylish Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are made on this property Pinot Gris are also now being made. (DM) by winemaker Eric Stern. During the mid-1990s roving wine consultant ● Pinot Noir Russian River Valley★★★ £E Helen Turley of MARCASSIN provided additional input and direction. There is ● Pinot Noir Quail Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★ £F a commitment here to producing wines from the ripest fruit from low- H Chardonnay Russian River Valley★★★✫ £E H ★★★★ yielding, meticulously-tended vineyards and with minimal intervention. Chardonnay Quail Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley £F 594 California North Coast

>> MACRAE FAMILY Sonoma County www.mactaewinery.com MARTINELLI Russian River Valley CALIFORNIA David Macrae 323 Walnut Street, Petaluma, CA 94952 Martinelli family 3360 River Road,Windsor, CA 95492 Tel: 707 888-0235 Fax: 707 773-1176 Tel: 707 525-0570 Fax: 707 525-9463 David Macrae sources Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes from the As well as her own MARCASSIN wines, here at Martinelli winemaker Helen Bacigalupi Vineyard and Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from the Turley produces brilliant Zinfandel, some of the very best in the state; the Stagecoach Vineyard owned by the Krupp Bothers at VERAISON in the Jackass Hill is a benchmark for all. You can also find very classy Chardonnay Napa Valley. Winemaker Kerry Damskey is charged with making wines and Pinot Noir here sourced from a number of sites. These are wines of real that are true to their terroir, all being from single vineyards. The complexity and style, with a sense of terroir and place. Pinot is produced in Chardonnay displays typical sweet Californian fruit, with hints of very small quantities, barely 300 cases per bottling, but you can invariably grapefruit and pomelo, with good complexity and length. However, it expect wines of at least 3 stars, often 4 stars or more. The Chardonnay is seems to lack just a bit of extra ‘grip’ to make it a truly top class wine. honeyed and toasty but always with an intense, mineral complexity. There are The Pinot Noir displays similar characteristics, certainly not a a number of bottlings of this too, with Zio Tony Ranch and Woolsey Road blockbuster, but with complexity on the finish and plenty of finesse again numbering just a few hundred cases each. The Muscat Alexandria, although it could do with a bit more structure. By contrast, the Cabernet produced in tiny quantities, is made from 100 year-old vines, it is grapey and Sauvignon has a great balance between fruit and acidity with layers of sugary but not syrupy. The reds will undoubtedly benefit from a little ageing. blackcurrant, blueberry and other summer fruits beneath gentle, supple (DM) tannins. A very fine wine, indeed. A Merlot from the Stagecoach vineyard ● Zinfandel Giuseppe & Luisa Russian River Valley★★★★★ £F is also made. (NB) ● Zinfandel Jackass Hill Russian River Valley✪✪✪✪✪ £F ● ★★★★✫ Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard Napa Valley F ● Pinot Noir Blue Slide Ridge Sonoma Coast★★★★ £F ● ★★★✫ Pinot Noir Bacigalupi Vineyard Russian River Valley £E ● Pinot Noir Bondi Home Ranch Sonoma Green Valley★★★★★ £F H ★★★✫ Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard Russian River Valley £E ● Pinot Noir Lolita Ranch Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £F ● ★★★✫ MARCASSIN Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir Bella Vigna Russian River Valley £E H Chardonnay Zio Tony Ranch Russian River Valley★★★★★ £F Helen Turley & John Wetlaufer PO Box 332, Calistoga, CA 94515 H Chardonnay Woolsey Road Russian River Valley★★★★ £E Tel: 707 258-3608 H Chardonnay Charles Ranch Sonoma Coast★★★★ £E Helen Turley has achieved a cult reputation among California winemakers, H Chardonnay Martinelli Road Russian River Valley★★★★ £E consulting to some of the top producers throughout the North Coast. In 1990 H Muscat Alexandria Jackass Hill Russian River Valley★★★★ £F she and her husband John Wetlaufer established the Marcassin winery and have developed their own vineyard, planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. MATANZAS CREEK Sonoma County www.matanzascreek.com Other Chardonnay cuvées are also produced from the Lorenzo Vineyard, Three J Jackson & B Banke 6097 Bennett Valley Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95404 Sisters and Upper Barn, with Pinot Noir from Blue Slide Ridge and the Three Tel: 707 528-6464 Fax: 707 823-571-0156 Sisters Vineyard. The wines are produced in tiny amounts, only a couple of Medium-sized operation producing mainly Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, hundred cases per bottling, and will be nigh on impossible to find. Their Merlot and an increasing amount of impressive Syrah, with total volume reputation is formidable and you can expect the wines invariably to be of at least 4 around 40,000 cases annually. The winery produced some stunning wines star quality, often 5. They are very expensive. (DM) during the late 1980s and early 90s, but more recent offerings have been disappointing. Indeed, prior to the involvement of Jess Jackson the wines were MARIMAR TORRES Sonoma Green Valley www.marimarestate.com better known for their lofty prices than their quality, but with the Jackson Marimar Torres 11400 Graton Road, Sebastopol, CA 95472 influence this winery looks to be back in the top division. Small amounts of a Tel: 707 823-4365 Fax: 707 823-4496 powerful Reserve Merlot, very pricey Journey meritage blend, a Sonoma Valley Based in the cool Sonoma Green Valley sub-appellation, Miguel Torres’’ sister Syrah and a promising Mendocino Viognier are also now being made. (DM) Marimar established this operation in 1986, planting the small 33-ha (81-acre) ● Merlot Sonoma Valley★★★ £E H Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma Valley★★★✫ £D Don Miguel vineyard equally between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. A new H Chardonnay Sonoma Valley★★★★ £E property in the Freestone Valley on the Sonoma Coast is also being planted to MAYO FAMILY Sonoma County www.mayofamilywinery.com Pinot Noir. There is a European approach to viticulture with high vine density Mayo family 13101 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen, CA 95442 helping to ensure low-yielding, piercing fruit. The vineyards have been tended Tel: 707 938-9401 Fax: 707 833-6550 entirely organically since 2003 and cover crops are planted to control vigour Sizeable family run winery producing an extensive and generally impressive and provide a better balance. Vinification is typically Burgundian. The range of wines sourcing fruit from both the Sonoma and Napa Valleys and Chardonnay is barrel-fermented and aged on lees with 100% malolactic and producing wines in relatively small lots. In addition to the wines profiled here the Pinot Noir is by separate parcel and clone with a small proportion of whole Pinot Gris from the Russian River and an easy drinking red blend Libertine bunches adding complexity. The wines are always restrained and well balanced offer good value drinking. Pinot Noir comes from the Darian Vineyard in the with good medium-term cellaring potential. (DM) Russian River and there is a pricier example from the Laurel Hill Vineyard in ● Pinot Noir Don Miguel Vineyard Sonoma Green Valley★★★★ £F the Sonoma Valley. Well priced Barbera and Carignane are produced as well as H Chardonnay Don Miguel Vineyard Sonoma Green Valley★★★✫ £E a Sonoma Merlot from the Laurent Vineyard. Laurel Hill Chardonnay is straightforward and fermented in stainless steel. Viognier is rich and peachy, 595 California North Coast

going through 100% malolactic it should be drunk young and fresh. Zinfandel be more finesse. Cabernet Franc is also now produced from the estate vineyard, from the Ricci Vineyard shows lots of old vine character and rich and complex while Zinfandel comes from the Monte Rosso Vineyard and a raspberry scented fruit. Syrah from the D’Ambrosia Vineyard has 4% Viognier Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc from the Paragon Vineyard in the Edna Valley. (DM) added. This certainly adds a spicy component and there is an underlying ● Cabernet Sauvignon Moon Mountain Reserve Sonoma Valley★★★ £F blueberry richness although the wine is a touch pricey. There is a lusciously textured Cabernet Sauvignon from the Los Chamizal Vineyard with elegant ROBERT MUELLER Russian River Valley red cherry notes. Perhaps the top red though is the splendid Sodoni Vineyard Robert & Lori Mueller 120 Foss Creek Circle, Healdsburg, CA 95448 Petire Sirah. Coming from a vineyard planted in the 1940s this is deep, Tel: 707 837-7399 dark and full of dark berry fruit and spices and with powerful but surprisingly The Muellers established their small family winery in the centre of Healdsburg supple tannins. If you are visiting the winery tasting room in Healdsburg its in 1991. Since then production has gradually risen to a few thosand cases a worth trying the Zinfandel Port which is also sourced from the Ricci Vineyard. year of good, rich and stylish Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfanfel, Pinot Gris and (DM) Chardonnay. Chardonnay is in a ripe, classically forward California style and should be approached in its youth. The Pinots show impressive deep berry ● Petite Sirah Sodoni Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★ £F ● Zinfandel Old Vine Ricci Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★✫ £F fruit, with some gamey elements and supple, well-balanced tannins. (DM) ● Zinfandel Port Ricci Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★✫ £F ● Pinot Noir Emily’s Cuvée Russian River Valley★★★★ £F ● Cabernet Sauvignon Los Chamizal Vineyard Sonoma Valley★★★✫ £E H Chardonnay LB Russian River Valley★★★✫ £E ● Syrah D’Ambrosia Vineyard Napa Valley★★★ £E H Viognier Saralee’s Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★ £E NOVY Russian River Valley www.novyfamilywines.com H Chardonnay Laurel Hill Vineyard Sonoma Valley★★✫ £D Novy & Lee families 980 Airway Court, Suite C, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 Tel: 707 573-1779 CALIFORNIA PETER MICHAEL Knights Valley www.petermichaelwinery.com Novy is jointly owned by Adam and Dianna Lee of Siduri and Dianna’s family, Peter Michael 12400 Ida Clayton Road, Knights Valley, Calistoga, CA 94515 the Novys. The wines which are all Rhône style are made at the Siduri facility Tel: 707 942-4459 Fax: 707 942-0209 in Santa Rosa and the intention is for Siduri to remain focussed on Pinot Noir Sir Peter Michael’s Knights Valley winery has, for well over a decade, been while Novy also produce Zinfandel, an unusual varietal Pinot Meunier from producing very fine cool- climate wines, with mountain vineyard sources a key the Van der Kamp Vineyard as well as a Red Table Wine which is an unusual element. The Chardonnay cuvées are all very impressive with a combination of blend of Grenache, Syrah, Zinfandel and Pinot Noir. A characterful Grenache, rich, ripe, honeyed fruit and deftly handled oak. The combination of different Mourvèdre and Counoise blend has also been produced from Alder Springs in clones, native yeast fermentation and careful selection in the vineyard and Mendocino and looked impressive from 2002. Grenache comes from the cellar all contribute and the wines have been increasing in both subtlety and Judge Family Vineyard and is rich and full with dark and spicy fruit and a complexity. Sauvignon Blanc is stylish and not dissimilar to top white Graves – touch of firm tannin gives the wine backbone. Ageing is in neutral French oak. it is barrel-fermented with lees-ageing and bâtonnage but is tight and structured As well as a lighter Russian River Syrah, there is also a bottling from the Judge with a mineral restraint. The Moulin Rouge Pinot is a more recent addition Family site which is richer and fuller with spicy dark pepper underpinning its from the famed Pisoni Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. The top red, fruit. Gary’s Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands has been a source of very Les Pavots, is from the vineyard of the same name and is a dark, brooding opulent, dark, almost jammy, chocolatey Syrah, while the Rosella’s Vineyard blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. It is among the example now stands out for its depth, structure and a fine intensity and finest Bordeaux blends in California and requires a minimum of 6–7 years’ age minerality which underpins its licorice and black pepper character. It is clearly to show at its best. (DM) the benchmark wine of the range. While both the fruit sources and the wines ● Pinot Noir Le Moulin Rouge Pisoni Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands★★★✫ £H change to some degree from year to year, high quality is maintained. (DM) ● ✪✪✪✪✪ Les Pavots Knights Valley £H ● Syrah Rosella’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands★★★★✫ £F H ★★★★ Sauvignon Blanc Les Après-Midi Sonoma County £G ● Syrah Gary’s Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands★★★★ £F H ★★★★✫ Chardonnay La Carrière Knights Valley £G ● Syrah Judge Family Vineyard Bennett Valley★★★★ £F H ★★★★★ Chardonnay Belle Côte Knights Valley £G ● Syrah Russian River Valley★★★✫ £E H ★★★★★ Chardonnay Mon Plaisir Sonoma County £H ● Grenache Judge Family Vineyard Bennett Valley★★★✫ £E H Chardonnay Cuvée Indigene Sonoma County✪✪✪✪✪ £H >> DAVID NOYES WINES Sonoma Valley www.davidnoyeswines.com MOON MOUNTAIN VINEYARD Sonoma Valley David Noyes PO Box 1117, Boyes Hot Springs, CA 95416 Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines 1700 Moon Mtn Drive, Sonoma, CA 95476 Tel: 707 935-7741 Fax: 707 935-7741 Tel: 707 996-5870 Fax: 707 996-5302 David Noyes started his winemaking career at Ridge in 1970 and worked In late 2002 the CARMENET winery, where the Moon Mountain Cabernet with several wineries in the area until he created the Kunde Estate Winery had been produced, was sold to BERINGER BLASS estates. Included in the sale in 1989. He stayed with the Kunde family until 2006, when he left to were the ripe and exuberant Zinfandel Evangelo Vineyard and stylish concentrate full-time on his own label wines, which he started in 2001. Sauvignon/Semillon Reserve. Time will tell how the wines fare under new He owns no vineyards, but fruit is sourced from various premium ownership. Chalone retained ownership of the original estate vineyard and vineyards in the Sonoma County and he makes his wine at the winery, as well as DYNAMITE VINEYARDS label which is now run as a Wellington Vineyards facility at Glen Ellen. Since 2005, Noyes has been separate operation under Diageo ownership. The Cabernet Reserve is a using a hybrid natural/synthetic cork called Diam for closing all his wines 596 classically ripe, full, almost chocolaty style. Powerful certainly, but there could and he has found this instrumental in substantially reducing the amount California North Coast

of TCA affected corks. Whilst concentrating on Chardonnay and Pinot maintained throughout the range. Obsidian is softest and most accessible of CALIFORNIA Noir, the Rued Vineyard Chardonnay being very restrained and refined the wines we have rated, while the Castelli-Knight is markedly opulent and with judicious oaking, the fairly straightforward Sonoma Coast Pinot laden with dark spicy fruit and Griffins Lair shows a dark, brambly, tarry Noir gets outdone in weight and complexity by the single vineyard character. The Kobler Family Vineyard is more elegant with subtly chiselled Dutton Ranch version. Unusually, there is also a wine made from 90 year tannins. The Alder Springs stands out for its depth, grip and power as well as old Tocai Fruilano vines, vibrant and citrussy, ideal for summer drinking. an impressive array of dark fruits. The Keltie is a splendid blend of a range of This is a small producer (only 80 cases made of the 2007 Rued Vineyard vineyards, no new oak is used and this needs time. Despite some Chardonnay), but there is a strong local following and a thriving wine extraordinarily high alcohol levels here, often over 16 degrees, the wines are all club. (NB) finely balanced. They may not appeal to Rhône traditionalists but are exciting ● ★★★★ Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley £E wines nonetheless. (DM) ● Pinot Noir Sonoma County★★★✫ £D ● Syrah Alder Springs Vineyard Mendocino County★★★★★ £F H Chardonnay Rued Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★✫ £E ● Syrah Kobler Family Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★★ £F H Tocai Fiulano Pagani Vineyard Sonoma County★★✫ £C ● Syrah Walker Vine Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★★ £F PAPAPIETRO PERRY Russian River Valley www.papapietro-perry.com ● Syrah Castelli-Knight Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★★ £F ● ★★★★★ Ben Papapietro & Bruce Perry 4441 Westside Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448 Syrah Obsidian Knights Valley £G ● Syrah Griffins Lair Vineyard Sonoma Coast★★★★★ £F Tel: 707 433-0422 Fax: 801 858-2864 ● Syrah Cuvee Keltie California★★★★★ £G The first commercial vintage was as recent as 1998 at this very new, small but high-quality warehouse winery with now eight Pinot Noirs and a tiny amount PEAY VINEYARDS Sonoma Coast www.peayvineyards.com of Zinfandel. A number of classic Pinot techniques are used. The wines get a 3 Peay partnership 1117B So, Cloverdale Blvd #172, Cloverdale, CA 95425 day cold soak and are fermented by vineyard lot in small containers. The wines Tel: 415 531-2756 Fax: 707 886-0731 are regularly hand plunged to aid extraction and to keep the temperature of This is a partnership between winemaker Vanessa Wong, vinegrower Nick the fermenting must under control. The dark and richly concentrated wines Peay and marketeer Andy Peay who established their small, remote Sonoma are aged in 60% new oak which is seamlessly integrated. They are bottled Coast vineyard in the mid 1990s. They produce a small range of elegant and unfined and unfiltered. (DM) intensely flavoured wines from mainly Rhône varieties but also Chardonnay ● Pinot Noir Russian River Valley★★★✫ £F and Pinot Noir. The whites tend to be more opulent and exuberant. A ripe ● Pinot Noir Peters Vineyard Sonoma Coast★★★★ £F and peachy Viognier is aged for 11 months on lees and, despite full malolactic, retains fresh acidity, giving the wine elegance and a little structure. >> VINEYARD OF PASTERICK www.pasterickwine.com Roussanne/Marsanne is ripe, nutty and balanced with a lovely minerality Gerry Pasterick 3491 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448 which gives the wine real character. It is aged in older wood and kept on lees Tel: 707 433-4655 Fax: 707 433-4655 after the malo and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Chardonnay is produced Gerry Pasterick makes only one wine – Syrah. He produces around 500 only in tiny quantities. Piercing citrus and stony, mineral notes are cases from his steep hillside vineyard in the Dry Creek Valley. He underpinned by a toasty richness from barrel-fermentation (50% new oak is augmented his holding with several plantings in 1990, 1998, 1999 and used). While there is a Burgundian quality to the fruit there is a subtle 2001. In 2001 he planted a small block of Viognier, with a second block background tropical character as well. The three Syrahs are to some degree in in 2006. Gerry is meticulous about his Syrah and tries as far as possible to contrast to the whites. They are more Côte-Rotie like than Cornas and the follow the traditional Northern Rhône method of blending around 3% cool climate character of the estate vineyards shows through in the wines. The Viognier with the Syrah and maturing the wine in barrel for 3 years. It is then bottle aged for a further year before it is released. The wine is gamey Estate bottling is light and impressively elegant. The La Bruma has a real with big fruit and strong flavours, almost black in colour, with nuances of mineral quality, while Les Titans is the most opulent and weighty of the trio, violet, black fruit, spice, and tar. A long, complex finish completes the with more of a rich licorice character. The wines are given a cold-soak and aged journey but the wine should really be cellared for several years before it in around one-quarter new wood. (DM) reaches its full potential. The excellent price/quality ratio is an added ● Syrah Les Titans Sonoma Coast★★★★ £F ● ★★★★ bonus.(NB) Syrah Estate La Bruma Sonoma Coast £F ● ★★★✫ ● Pinot Noir Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £E Syrah Estate Sonoma Coast £E H Chardonnay Estate Sonoma Coast★★★★ £E PAX WINE CELLARS Russian River Valley www.paxwines.com H Roussanne/Marsanne Estate Sonoma Coast★★★★ £E Pax Mahle 3352-D Coffey Lane , Santa Rosa, CA 95403 H Viognier Estate Sonoma Coast★★★✫ £E Tel: 707 591-0782 Fax: 707 591-0784 PORTER CREEK VINEYARDS Russian River Valley Very impressive warehouse winery producing some of the best small-lot Syrah Davis family 8735 Westside Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448 in California. The wines are characterised by ripe, opulent, full-blown dark Tel: 707 433-6321 Fax: 707 433-4245 fruit, loads of depth and concentration, and marvellous varietal purity Small family-owned winery producing Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, throughout. As well as the wines rated below, two whites are also released – a Zinfandel and a striking example of old-vine Carignane. The George’s Hill Roussanne labelled Venus and a Viognier dubbed Aphrodite. There is also a Chardonnay is in a tighter, leaner style than others from the region, with notes Rhône-style rosé blend and a red Cuvée Moriah, which is dominated by of apple and pear, rather than more exotic tropical notes, and an impressive Grenache. Other Syrah labels include Christine, Keltic, Lauterbach Hill, Alder mineral core. The Fiona Hill Pinot Noir is relatively light but elegant, with fine 597 Springs “Terraces” and Pangea. Expect the rich and exotic house style to be California North Coast

and persistent red berry fruit dominating the palate. Expect these wines to ● Pinot Noir La Neblina Sonoma Coast★★★★ £F develop well for 5 years or more. (DM) ● Syrah Cherry Camp Sonoma Coast★★★★★ £F ● Timbervine Russian River Valley★★★★★ £F ● Pinot Noir Fiona Hill Russian River Valley★★★ £E Syrah ● Las Colinas Russian River Valley★★★★ £E ● Carignane Old Vines Alexander Valley★★✫ £C Syrah ● Von Viedlich Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £E H Chardonnay George’s Hill Estate Russian River Valley★★★ £D Zinfandel H Chardonnay Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley★★★★✫ £F A RAFANELLI Dry Creek Valley J County Line Rosé BV Anderson Valley★★✫ £C Dave Rafanelli 4685 West Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448 RAVENSWOOD Sonoma Valley www.ravenswood-wine.com Tel: 707 433-1385 Constellation Brands 18701 Gehricke Road, Sonoma, CA 95476 Dave Rafanelli has some excellent hillside vineyard sites in the Dry Creek Tel: 707 932-2332 Fax: 707 938-9459 Valley from which he ensures top quality fruit for his own estate wines. He not No longer small, this Sonoma winery has a major focus on good to very good only produces superlative old-vine, highly complex and characterful Zinfandel, Zinfandel. The winery was founded in 1976 by winemaker Joel Peterson and but some impressive Cabernet Sauvignon as well. The estate vineyards are dry- partner Reed Foster, who have now sold a controlling interest to Constellation farmed (i.e. without recourse to irrigation) and yields are always kept to a Brands. Vintners Blend is a good budget label, including Zinfandel, Merlot minimum. (DM) and Chardonnay. In the second tier are the County Series wines, sourced from ● ★★★★ Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley £E vineyards throughout the state, including several Zinfandels. The top wines are ● Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley★★★✫ £F in the vineyard-designated series. Along with the many Zinfandels offered RADIO COTEAU Russian River Valley www.radiocoteau.com there are two interesting meritage reds, Ranch Salina and Pickberry. Top reds Eric Sussman, Bill & Joan Smith PO Box 610, Forestville, CA 95436 are fine cellar prospects. It will be interesting to see how quality is maintained CALIFORNIA Tel: 707 887-83354 Fax: 801 340-6041 under the new ownership. (DM) Eric Sussman established this operation in partnership with Bill and Joan ● Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County★★ £E Smith, former owners of LA JOTA and until very recently WH SMITH, ● Merlot Sonoma County★★ £D producing fine Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. Before venturing out on his own ● Rancho Salina Moon Mountain Vineyard Sonoma Valley★★★ £E ● ★★★★ project Eric gained invaluable experience both in the States and elsewhere. Zinfandel Teldeschi Vineyard £E ● Zinfandel Napa County★★ £C Those he has worked for include Comte ARMANDE in Pommard, BONNY DOON and most recently, DEHLINGER where he shaped his knowledge and J ROCHIOLI Russian River Valley understanding of North Coast estate grown Pinot Noir. The wines are hand- Tom Rochioli 6192 Westside Road, Healdsburg, CA 95448 made and advocating sustainable farming has been one of the key factors in Tel: 707 433-2305 Fax: 707 433-2358 establishing grower links. Pinot Noir is the main variety here. As well as the The Rochioli family have been grape growers for far longer than they have reds a fine, fragrant and intense Pinot rosé is produced from cool Anderson been wine producers. They do however produce some of the best Pinot Noir Valley fruit. Of the Pinots, Anderson Valley also provides a fine Savoy and Chardonnay from the Russian River, along with impressive Sauvignon Vineyard bottling. A hillside aspect and cool summer nights ensure a wine Blanc and big, full, very rich Zinfandel, of which there is a striking Sodini with piercing red berry fruit, great minerality and a firm structure. Cool Vineyard bottling. As well as the estate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, there are a Sonoma Coast is the source of the rich dark-berry fruited Terra Neuma which number of single-vineyard bottlings of each produced in very small quantities, comes from biodynamically farmed vines. The wine possesses excellent acidity. almost invariably rating ★★★ or more. (DM) La Neblina (Spanish for fog) differs in that it is from a blend of two vineyards. ● Pinot Noir Estate Russian River Valley★★★★ £F Full of dark-cherry fruit it is softer and more approachable. The Alberigi is full, ● Zinfandel Estate Russian River Valley★★★✫ £E dark and smoky and posseses a firm structure demanding of 3 or 4 years’ H Chardonnay Estate Russian River Valley★★★★ £F patience. Syrah from the Cherry Camp Vineyard is rich and full of dark berry H Sauvignon Blanc Estate Russian River Valley★★★ £D fruit with sumptuous chocolatey undertones despite its cool climate origins. It ROEDERER ESTATE Anderson Valley www.roederer-estate.com is picked very late often in the beginning of November. Timbervine is sourced from elevated hillside plantings. Cooling breezes provide a fine structured Louis Roederer SA 4501 Highway 128, Philo, CA 95466 mineral edge to the wines dark berry and roasted coffee fruit with subtle notes Tel: 707 895-2288 Fax: 707 895-2120 of black pepper. Las Colinas, like La Neblina, is a blend of cool climate sites Champagne house Louis Roederer has set up its California outpost in the cool and is characterised more by its elegance than its weight. Just one Zin is Anderson Valley. Unlike a number of their competitors they concentrate on produced which comes from dry-farmed old vines. It is loaded with blackberry producing just three wines. The regular Brut NV, made from all three and raspberry fruit and offers lots of old-vine complexity. The range is Champagne grapes, and Rosé, from Pinot Noir, provide reasonable value and a completed by a single white - an elegant and very Burgundian styled riper, fuller style than their French counterparts. The Brut L’Ermitage is Chardonnay from the Savoy Vineyard. Subtle citrus and mineral notes are altogether more serious, a very well structured blend of Pinot Noir and underpinned by a rich leesy complexity on the palate. The wines deserve Chardonnay that is both long and complex. (DM) H ★★★★ cellaring, particularly the top Syrahs. (DM) Brut L’Ermitage Anderson Valley £F H Brut NV Anderson Valley★★✫ £E ● Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley★★★★★ £E J Brut Rosé BV Anderson Valley★★✫ £E ● Pinot Noir Terra Neuma Sonoma Coast★★★★★ £F ● Pinot Noir Alberigi Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★✫ £F 598 California North Coast

SAUSAL Alexander Valley www.sausalwinery.com spicy pepper notes. There is also a very impressive and well-priced old vine Zin CALIFORNIA Sausal family 7370 Highway 128, Healdsburg, CA 95448 from the Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys. A Bobcat version (named after Tel: 707 433-2285 Fax: 707 433-5136 Susie Selby’s cat) is a limited bottling from 60 to 80 year old vines and is The Sausal family produce around 10,000 cases a year from their 50ha (125 arguably the most exciting wine produced here. It is rich and concentrated acres) of estate vineyards. As the top Zinfandel label suggests, some of the vines with just a slight hint of raisin showing through. The range is completed by a here are over 100 years of age and it shows in the quality of the reds. Both the port-style wine, made from Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, and a sweet white Private Reserve and Century Vines are barrel-aged in top-class French oak to called Sweet Cindy, a blend of Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc, that add complexity and depth. The resulting wines are supple but finely shows just a subtle hint of botrytis. (DM) structured. A straight-forward red and white are also offered as well as a good ● Zinfandel Bobcat Sonoma County★★★✫ £E Sangiovese. (DM) ● Syrah Vesenaz Vineyard Dry Creek Valley★★★✫ £E ● ★★★ ● Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Alexander Valley★★★ £E Zinfandel Old Vines Sonoma County £D ● ★★★✫ ● Zinfandel Family Alexander Valley★★✫ £D Malbec Chalk Hill £E ● ★★★✫ ● Zinfandel Private Reserve Alexander Valley★★★ £E Zinfandel Port Sonoma County £E ● ★★★ ● Zinfandel Century Vines Alexander Valley★★★★ £E Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County £D ● Pinot Noir Russian River Valley★★★ £D SEGHESIO Dry Creek Valley www.seghesio.com ● Syrah Sonoma County★★★ £D Seghesio family 14730 Grove Street, Healdsburg , CA 95448 ● Merlot Sonoma County★★✫ £C Tel: 707 433-7764 Fax: 707 433-0545 H Sweet Cindy Sonoma County★★★ £D The Seghesio family have been based in the Sonoma Valley since 1895, H Chardonnay Russian River Valley★★★ £D ★✫ although they only decided to bottle their own fruit as recently as 1983. Today H Sauvignon Blanc Alexander Valley £B there are 162ha (400 acres) of prime vineyard sites which are producing some SIDURI Russian River Valley www.siduri.com of the best Zinfandel and Italian-style wines in California. The Zins all have Diana & Adam Lee 980 Airway Court, Suite C, Santa Rosa, CA 95403 marvellous depth and purity – full of ripe fruit but complex and very intense. Tel: 707 578-3882 Fax: 707 578-3882 There’s good to very good Sangiovese,. Ommagio (meaning ‘homage’), like An extensive range of fine and stylish Pinot Noirs, as well as impressive Syrah many top cuvées produced by winegrowers around the world, celebrates earlier under the NOVY label have been made by this small warehouse operation on generations. It is a stylish blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. There the outskirts of Santa Rosa since its first vintage in 1994. The Lees practise an is a new labelled Pinot Noir sourced from three sites as well as a new Fiano absolutely minimalist approach to winemaking and to date no wine they have white. The top reds will develop well in the medium term. (DM) bottled has been either fined or filtered. The objective is to produce wines that ● Sangiovese Old Vine “Chianti Station” Alexander Valley★★★ £E are expressive of the region or individual terroir from which they have been ● ★★★★ Omaggio Alexander Valley £E sourced. A range of single-vineyard bottlings number the high-profile Pisoni ● ★★★ Zinfandel Sonoma Valley £C Vineyard among them. Pinot is now sourced all the way from the Willamette ● Zinfandel Home Ranch Alexander Calley★★★★ £E Valley in Oregon down to the new Santa Rita AVA in Santa Barbara County – ● Zinfandel Cortina Vineyard Dry Creek Valley★★★★ £E ● Zinfandel Old Vine Sonoma County★★★★ £E the only problem being that there’s not very much about. (DM) ● Pinot Noir Sonoma County★★★✫ £E SELBY Russian River Valley www.selbywinery.com ● Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands★★★★★ £G Susie Selby 215 Centre Street, Healdsburg, CA 95448 Tel: 707 431-1703 Fax: 707 431-0439 SIMI Alexander Valley www.simiwinery.com A relatively small operation producing small lots across a fairly extensive range Constellation Brands 16275 Healdsburg Ave. Healdsburg CA 95448 with several wines only available at the tasting room in Healdsburg. However if Tel: 707 433-6981 Fax: 707 433-6253 you are travelling in the area it is well worth a visit. Throughout the range the This winery was originally established in 1876 by the immigrant Italian Simi wines offer generally excellent value for money. The winery was established in family and is now a part of the Constellation Brands Icon Estate range. The the early 1990s by Susie Selby’s late father, David. She has since taken on the wines here have been improving across recent vintages, they are altogether winemaking mantle and takes a very hands on approach. There is a good and more accessible than previously, particularly in the case of the lower priced fresh rosé made from Syrah with limited skin contact. Of the whites, the Sonoma County wines. This trend is likely to continue under industry veteran Sonoma County Sauvignon is light, fresh and grassy while the Russian River and director of winemaking, Steve Reeder. Sauvignon Blanc is cool-fermented Chardonnay offers subtle tropical fruit, spicy oak and a rich texture from and gains additional depth from a small addition of Semillon. The wineries big ageing on lees. An extensive range of reds are also produced. Merlot is soft and volume brand is Chardonnay with an output of 130,000 cases a year (40% of plummy but more serious is a Malbec, blended with a little Cabernet total production) and it shows; the wine has straightforward melon scented Sauvignon, which has a ripe tobacco and dark-fruited character. Cherry- fruit and gets a touch of new French oak but lacks the vibrancy of the scented Pinot Noir from the Russian River is bottled unfined and unfiltered Sauvignon. Bigger, fuller and richer is the Reserve Chardonnay from Russian and sees 40% new French oak. Cabernet Sauvignon also receives 40% new River vineyards. The wine was originally based on the Goldfields Vineyard but oak but French as well as American, and offers an impressive intensity of fine a number of other sites are now included. Around two-thirds is aged in new red berry and plum fruit in a ripe and full style. Decent Syrah from Sonoma oak and this a typically full, rich style and moderately priced. However it is the County is joined by a very impressive limited bottling from the Vesenaz reds which are more impressive. Merlot comes from a range of sites and is aged Vineyard. It is very characterful and loaded with dark blackberry fruit and in a mix of American and French oak. Cabernet Sauvignon by contrast is from 599 California North Coast

solely Alexander Valley fruit and includes unusually a little Syrah and Petite SONOMA-CUTRER Russian River Valley www.sonomacutrer.com Sirah as well as Merlot and Cab Franc. This is the wineries other big volume Brown Forman 4401 Slusser Road, Windsor, CA 95492 brand and it is intense and structured with vibrant blackberry fruit. It is the Tel: 707 528-1181 Fax: 707 528-1561 top two Cabernets though that are the stand out wines. The Landslide Originally established as a top-notch producer of Chardonnay in 1973 by Vineyard bottling has only been released since the 1999 vintage but has Brice Cutrer Jones, the Sonoma-Cutrer star has waned a little. The wines are emerged as a well priced premium quality example of the variety. The vineyard nevertheless consistent, particularly the two leading cuvées. With the exception is planted to a range of clones and the wine offers rich blackberry and plum of Les Pierres, which is just to the north of Carneros, the vineyard plots are all fruit as well as a lush texture and will drink well young. The Reserve Alexander Russian River. The Russian River Ranches bottling is a blend of all the winery’s Valley example, sourced from a range of Alexander Valley sites, is denser and vineyards throughout the region, while the two single-vineyard wines are fuller. It is given 24 months in 100% new oak, both French and American, classified as its Grand Cru program. The tiny-production top wine is the then aged for a further year before release. (DM) Founders Reserve, selected from the five best barrels of the vintage and bottled ● Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Alexander Valley★★★★ £G without filtration. This is not a vineyard selection but purely the very best ● Cabernet Sauvignon Landslide Vineyard Alexander Valley★★★✫ £F barrels from the three vineyards. Pinot Noir is also now made. (DM) ● ★★✫ Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley £D H Chardonnay Russian River Ranches Russian River Valley★★✫ £D ● ★★ Merlot Sonoma County £D H Chardonnay The Cutrer Russian River Valley★★★ £F H Chardonnay Reserve Russian River Valley★★✫ £D H Chardonnay Les Pierres Sonoma Valley★★★ £F H Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma County★★ £C H Chardonnay Sonoma County★✫ £C >> SPANN VINEYARDS Sonoma Valley www.spannvineyards.com Betsy & Peter Spann 12900 Maple Glen Road, Glen Ellen, CA 95442 SKEWIS WINES Russian River Valley www.skewiswines.com

CALIFORNIA Tel: 707 933-8343 Fax: 707 933-8583 Hank and Maggie Skewis 16109 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, CA 95448 Another small artisan winemaking husband and wife team who first got Tel: 707 431-2160 the bug through drinking wine (Betsy lived in Bordeaux for a while and Specialist producer of small-lot Pinot Noir. Output is rarely above 200 cases Peter was a wine buyer for restaurants, and seemed to be doing an per wine, so bottles will be difficult to find – but very much worth the search. admirable job at it, too). Whilst Betsy is the hands-on winemaker, Peter Yields are around 2 tons to the acre and the Skewises work closely with their sources fruit from other vineyards as well as their own, allowing them to vineyard suppliers on crop thinning prior to veraison when necessary. create some interesting blends. Betsy’s Backacher Bottle Blond is a blend Fermentation is in small bins and completed in barrel. The wines are marked of two-thirds Sémillon and one-third Chardonnay – an easy drinking more by elegance and persistence on the palate than by sheer weight. The medium-dry quaffing wine with immediate appeal as the entry level white Salzgeber-Chan from the Russian River is the lightest and most approachable. wine. On a more serious note, a 60% Chardonnay and 40% Viognier Also from the Russian River, Montgomery is more gamy with strawberry blend has the stone fruit flavours of the Viognier jostling with the full and character, while the Bush Vineyard is darker and plummier. The finely rich character of Chardonnay. Mo Zin is a delightful blend (in the 2006 structured Anderson Valley Reserve and Demuth bottlings from the Anderson vintage) of 42% Zinfandel, 30% Mourvèdre, 20% Petite Sirah and 8% Valley offer just a touch more depth and intensity. The Anderson Valley Syrah, brambly fruit with hints of lavender, herb and garrigue, full, rich, Reserve in particular has stunning depth and purity. Expect all the wines to herby and spicy. A number of other reds are made – Cabernet Sauvignons develop very well for 4 or 5 years. (DM) from Alexander Valley and Mayacamus, Merlot from Sonoma, a ● Pinot Noir Salzgeber-Chan Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★ £E Mourvédre/Syrah blend form Lodi and Sonoma, Syrah from the Russian ● Pinot Noir Montgomery Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★ £F River Valley and a Charbono from the Napa Valley, finishing up with the ● Pinot Noir Bush Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★ £F red equivalent of the Backache white blended from Merlot, Petite Sirah, ● Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Reserve★★★★✫ £F Charbono, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. (NB) ● ★★★★✫ Pinot Noir Demuth Vineyard Anderson Valley £E ● Mo Zin California★★★✫ £D H Chardonnay/Viognier North Coast★★★✫ £D WH SMITH Sonoma County H Betsy’s Backacher Bottle Blond Yorkville Highlands★★✫ £C Bill Smith 13719 Dog Bar Road, Grass Valley, CA 95492 Tel: 707 433-6981 Fax: 707 433-6253 ST FRANCIS VINEYARDS Sonoma Valley www.stfranciswine.com Bill Smith established his reputation for making great California reds when he J Canton, L Martin, Kopf family 100 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa, CA 95409 ran the LA JOTA winery on Howell Mountain, creating massive and powerful Tel: 707 833-0248 Fax: 707 833-6534 Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah – some of legendary proportions. The Impressive, medium-sized Sonoma winery founded in 1971. An extensive Smiths have now sold some of their interest here on the Sonoma Coast to range is produced, solely from Sonoma County fruit and at the top end the David DEL DOTTO. As well as the intense and complex Hellenthal Vineyard, quality is striking. Zinfandels, both Old Vines and Pagani Ranch, are huge, a Sonoma Coast and a number of other bottlings are also offered as is a brooding, super-ripe examples of the variety. Perhaps just a little more elegance Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignan, Piedra Hill from land he recently and refinement would take these Zins to a higher level. The Cabernet Kings planted. The Pinot style is one of elegance rather than power, with an attractive Ridge Reserve, the top label, is powerful, refined and very well crafted. It will undercurrent of piercing, red berry fruit and well-judged oak. (DM) age gracefully and needs a minimum of 6 years. A fairly extensive range of ● Pinot Noir Hellenthal Vineyard Sonoma Coast★★★✫ £F reserve reds are also available solely from the winery. (DM) ● Zinfandel Tres Viejos Sonoma County★★★ £D 600 California North Coast

● Zinfandel Reserve Pagani Vineyard Sonoma Valley★★★★ £F JOSEPH SWAN Russian River Valley www.swanwinery.com CALIFORNIA ● Merlot Sonoma County★✫ £C Rod & Lynn Berglund 2916 Laguna Road, Forestville CA 95463 ● Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County★★ £C Tel: 707 573-3747 Fax: 707 575-1605 ● ★★★★ Cabernet Sauvignon Kings Ridge Vineyard Reserve Sonoma Valley £G This is the oldest established winery in the Russian River. It was founded by H Sonoma County★✫ £C Chardonnay the original owner, Joe Swan, Lynn Berglund’s father in 1967. Four decades H Chardonnay Reserve Behler Vineyard Sonoma Valley★★ £E later the wines reflect the history of the property and are both traditional and STEELE Lake County www.steelewines.com characterful. Pinot Gris is rich and honeyed with a firm mineral structure, the Jed Steele 4350 Thomas Drive at Highway 29, Kelseyville, CA 95451 fruit will take 2 or 3 years to open out. Zinfandel comes from both the Tel: 707 279-8861 Fax: 707 279-9633 Russian River and Sonoma Valley and is characterful, well priced if generally Jed Steele has enormous experience of the wine business in California, having very ripe in style. Most impressive is the Lone Redwood Ranch example with a previously been the founding winemaker at KENDALL-JACKSON. He fine berry fruit complexity. That from the Stellwagen Vineyard is round and established his own label in 1991 and he now produces an extensive range of full with sweet fruit dominating the mid palate. A marked raisiny character reds and whites, with the top-of-the-line examples coming from an almost apparent in the 2000. The Mancini Ranch is a touch lighter with a leafy, bewildering array of single-vineyard sources. These are not only impressive and peppery component. Saralee’s Vineyard Pinot Noir is gamey and quite stylish but represent very good value for money. Chardonnay is on the one Burgundian in style. No doubt some of its complexity coming from the six hand rich and opulent, on the other balanced by a fine mineral undercurrent, different clones planted in the vineyard. The Trenton Estate home vineyard is a and there are two unusual late-harvest examples from the Dupratt and fine source for both Syrah and Pinot Noir. The Syrah is dark and peppery with Sangiacomo vineyards. The reds are supple, well-structured and accessible at a a firm structure, while the Pinot is rich and shows lovely ripe strawberry fruit young age. They will however develop well in bottle. Shooting Star is the and an underlying truffly character. Fuller and riper, more opulent Syrah winery’s second label, providing good fruit-driven wines at very fair prices. comes from the steep slopes of the Great Oak Vineyard; a dense dark berry Often these will be 1 star, sometimes 2 star wines. (DM) fruit and a chocolatey undercurrent mark the wine. Although the reds are ● Pinot Noir Carneros★★★ £D generally accessible on release, the Pinots and particularly Syrah will benefit ● Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard Carneros★★★ £D from 3 or 4 years of further ageing. (DM) ● Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley★★★ £E ● Pinot Noir Trenton Estate Russian River Valley★★★✫ £E ● Cabernet Franc Lake County★★★ £C ● Pinot Noir Saralee’s Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★ £E ● Merlot Lake County★★★ £D ● Syrah Great Oak Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★✫ £E ● Zinfandel California★★★ £C ● Syrah Trenton Estate Russian River Valley★★★ £E ● Zinfandel Catfish Vineyard Lake County★★★ £D ● Zinfandel Lone Redwood Ranch Russian River Valley★★★ £E ● Syrah Lake County★★ £C ● Zinfandel Stellwagon Vineyard Sonoma Valley★★✫ £D ● Syrah Parmalee-Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★ £E ● Zinfandel Mancini Ranch Russian River Valley★★ £D H Chardonnay Cuvée California★★★ £C H Pinot Gris Trenton Station Russian River Valley★★✫ £C H Chardonnay Lolonis Vineyard Mendocino County★★★ £E H Chardonnay Dupratt Vineyard Mendocino County★★★ £E TANDEM Russian River Valley www.tandemwinery.com H Chardonnay Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley★★★★ £E Pete Knight PO Box 1921, Sebastopol, CA 95473 H Chardonnay Durrell Vineyard Sonoma County★★★★ £E Tel: 707 823-2794 Fax: 707 823-2796 H Pinot Blanc Santa Barbara County★★ £C Founded by Greg Bjornstadt and Greg la Follette, Tandem is now owned by Pete Knight who also owns QUIVIRA Vineyards. Bjornstadt has established his STONESTREET Alexander Valley www.stonestreetwines.com own new label, Bjornstadt Cellars, while La Follette remains to direct Kendall-Jackson 7111 Highway 128, Healdsburg, CA 95448 operations at Tandem. He was responsible for establishing FLOWERS and Tel: 800 355-8008 more recently has provided consultancy to other small scale operations One of a number of high-quality, medium-sized wineries in the Jackson family including HALLECK. Fruit comes from some of the best growers in the area. empire. Merlot, Chardonnay and the meritage red Legacy, a blend dominated Pinot Noir is the key variety, but Chardonnay, Sangiovese, Syrah and red by Cabernet Sauvignon, are all impressive. Chardonnay is in a rich, tropical blends are all made. Vineyard sources are Kent Ritchie, Sangiacomo, Pisoni, style, with the top bottlings showing both refinement and the structure for Halleck, Keefer, Van der Camp, Auction Bridge, Gabrielli and Porter Bass. mid-term cellaring. The reds are big, powerful and brooding, marked by high Pinot Noir is supple and forward drinking well young and improving for five alcohol. They are rich almost chocolaty, with just the occasional green note in years. Rich, Burgundian styled Van der Camp Pinot offers real depth and lesser vintages. A number of new Chardonnay and Cabernet wineshave also persistence, the Sangiacomo is a touch more firmly structured with a smoky been added to the range. (DM) concentration and a gamey, truffley undercurrent. Keefer Ranch by contrast is ● Merlot Alexander Valley★★★ £D lighter, marked more by red rhan dark cherry fruit and with a firm and ● Legacy Alexander Valley★★★★ £G ● Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley★★✫ £D mineral acid structure. Both the Peloton and Syrah take the California ● Cabernet Sauvignon Christopher’s Vineyard Alexander Mountain★★★★ £F appellation and are sourced largely from Sonoma and Mendocino fruit. The H Chardonnay Alexander Valley★★★ £D Syrah is non-vintaged, in a lighter, floral minerally style with a hefty dose of H Chardonnay Upper Barn Vineyard Alexander Valley★★★★ £F Sangiovese, up to 20%. The brambly, Peloton blends no fewer than 8 varieties and includes Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Zinfandel as well as Chardonnay, Viognier and Gewurztraminer lifting its aromatics. Fine leesy, restrained 601 California North Coast

Chardonnay comes from the Porter Creek Vineyard, while the older vine of 2003. (DM) Ritchie bottling is fuller, more opulent with subtle tropical and citrus hints and ● La Joie Sonoma County★★★★★ £H a creamy weight and mouthfilling texture. Like the reds, both will drink well ● La Muse Sonoma County★★★★★ £H on release. (DM) ● Le Désir Sonoma County★★★★★ £H ● ★★★★★ Pinot Noir Van der Kamp Vineyard Sonoma Mountain £F WILLIAMS SELYEM Russian River Valley ● Pinot Noir Sangiacomo Vineyard Sonoma Coast★★★★✫ £F ● Pinot Noir Keefer Ranch Sonoma Green Valley★★★★✫ £F John & Kathe Dyson 1861 Lewis Street, Ballard CA 93463 ● Peloton Red California★★★✫ £D Tel: 707 433-6425 Fax: 707 431-4862 ● Syrah California★★★✫ £D The Dysons purchased this classic Sonoma property from founders Burt H Chardonnay Porter Bass Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★ £F Williams and Ed Selyem in 1998. Winemaker Bob Cabral has stayed on and H Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★ £E continues to make the same artisan styles of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as Williams and Selyem. The Pinots are rich and concentrated, marked by their TIN BARN Sonoma County www.tinbarnvineyards.com powerful, earthy tannins, while the Chardonnay can be lusciously rich but Lancaster, Fowler & Stewart Partnership PO Box 1776, Sonoma, CA 95476 with none of the overt tropical notes found in neighbouring wines. A plethora Tel: 707 938-5430 Fax: 707 938-5431 of single-vineyard labels are produced every vintage and rarely are these less This small winery is a collaboration of three friends, winemaker Michael than 4 star. Ferrington and Rochioli Pinot is now very pricey as is Heintz Lancaster, Gray Fowler and Carl Stewart. The name emanates from the the old Chardonnay. These are Sonoma wines for the longer haul. There are two very barn found on the Coryelle Fields Vineyard where the partners produced their interesting, rich and intense sweet wines from Gewürztraminer and Muscat. first Syrah. Grassy and lightly citrusy Sauvignon Blanc comes from cool Both are opulent in style but well-structured with a fine mineral-fresh acid Bennett Valley and is 80% tank fermented with the balance in oak to add a

CALIFORNIA balance. (DM) little weight and substance. Cabernet Sauvignon comes from both Sonoma as ● Pinot Noir Sonoma County★★★★ £E VOLKER EISELE well as from the vineyard in the Napa Valley. The Tombs ● Pinot Noir Russian River Valley★★★★★ £F Creek wine, which is 100% varietal and aged for 18 months in French oak ● Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast★★★★★ £F (50% new) has a very marked dark berry and plummy fruit character. ● Zinfandel Russian River Valley★★★✫ £E Zinfandel comes from the Dalraddy Vineyard in the Napa valley in eastern ● Zinfandel Bacigalupi Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★ £F Napa but there is also a splendidly dark, savoury Gilsson Vineyard bottling H Chardonnay North Coast★★★✫ £F from the Russian River which has a lovely blackberry and mineral character. H Chardonnay Allen Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★★ £F Arguably the best wine here, however, is the Coryelle Fields Vineyard Syrah H Chardonnay Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast★★★★ £F ★★★★★ from the Sonoma Coast. It has dark spicy fruit that is well balanced by smoky H Gewürztraminer Late Harvest Vista Verde San Benito County £G H ★★★★ new oak as well as impressive depth and substance. The reds, particularly Muscat Canelli Late Harvest Russian River Valley £G Cabernet and Syrah, will develop nicely in the mid term. (DM) ● ★★★✫ Zinfandel Gilsson Vineyard Russian River Valley £D OTHER WINES OF NOTE ● Syrah Coryelle Fields Vineyard Sonoma Coast★★★✫ £D ● ★★★ Cabernet Sauvignon Tombs Creek Vineyard Sonoma County £E ALEXANDER VALLEY VINEYARDS H ★★✫ Sauvignon Blanc Dry Creek Vineyard Bennett Valley £C ● Cyrus Alexander Valley★★★★ £F ● ★★★ VÉRITÉ Sonoma Valley www.veritewines.com Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Alexander Valley £D ● Zinfandel Old Vine Alexander Valley★★★ £E Kendall-Jackson 4611 Thomas Road Healdsburg CA 95448 ● Redemption Zin Alexander Valley★★★ £D Tel: 707 433-9000 Fax: 707 431-1261 ● Cabernet Franc Estate Alexander Valley★★★ £D Recently established Jackson family premium operation specialising in ● Sin Zin Alexander Valley★★✫ £D Bordeaux red styles. The wines are all hand-crafted from various sites ● Temptation Zin Alexander Valley★★ £B throughout Sonoma County. The vineyard sources are classic mountain terroirs ● Syrah Estate Alexander Valley★★ £D and winemaker Pierre Seillan is able to source what the winery refers to as ● Sangiovese Estate Alexander Valley★★ £D micro-crus, producing wines from the very best blocks of a number of estates. ● Alluvia Rhône Blend Alexander Valley★ £E Fruit comes from the Alexander, Bennett and Knights Valleys as well as H Chardonnay Estate Alexander Valley★★ £C H ★★✫ Carneros and Atlas Peak. La Joie emulates the Left Bank of Bordeaux and is a “New Gewurz” Mendocino County £B J Alexander Valley★✫ £B blend of roughly two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon with the balance Merlot. Sangiovese BANNISTER Youthfully backward and firmly structured, it is nevertheless very concentrated ● Pinot Noir Salzgeber Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★ £E with fine, intense, very ripe dark berry fruit. La Muse, 90% Merlot and 10% H Chardonnay Porter-Bass Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★ £D Cabernet Sauvignon, is more forward and opulent. Full of dark plum and BELVEDERE spicy oak, the wine is richly textured, supple but finely structured. Without ● Pinot Noir Russian River Valley★★ £E doubt the option of being able to source superb fruit from a number of sites H Chardonnay Russian River Valley★★★ £C adds complexity. Very impressive, the wines need just an extra dimension to BOGLE VINEYARDS take them into the absolute top division. The third wine in the portfolio is Le ● Zinfandel Old Vine California★✫ £C Désir, a Saint-Emilion style blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot with a touch BONTERRA ● ★✫ 602 of Cabernet Sauvignon which was released for the first time in the second half Syrah Mendocino County £B California North Coast

H Roussanne Mendocino County★✫ £B ● Zinfandel Collins Vineyard Russian River Valley★★ £D CALIFORNIA AUGUST BRIGGS MARIETTA CELLARS ● Pinot Noir Russian River Valley★★★ £E ● Syrah North Coast★★★ £D H Chardonnay Russian River Valley★★★ £D ● Zinfandel Sonoma Valley★★★ £D CAPIAUX McCRAY RIDGE ● Pinot Noir Widdoes Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★✫ £F ● Merlot Two Moon Vineyard Dry Creek Valley★★✫ £E ● Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands★★★★ £F McDOWELL VALLEY CHATEAU SOUVERAIN ● Syrah Mendocino★★ £D ● Cabernet Sauvignon Winemakers Reserve Alexander Valley★★★ £E H Viognier Mendocino★✫ £C BR COHN MURPHY-GOODE ● Cabernet Sauvignon Olive Hill Estate Sonoma Valley★★★ £F ● Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley★★ £E H Chardonnay Carneros★★✫ £C ● Merlot Alexander Valley★★ £C DAVIS BYNUM ● Zinfandel Liars Dice Sonoma County★★ £C ● Pinot Noir Le Pinot Rochioli Russian River Valley★★★ £F H Chardonnay Sonoma County★★ £C DE LOACH H Fume Blanc Sonoma County★ £C ● Zinfandel OFS Russian River Valley★★★✫ £E H Reserve Fume Sauvignon Blanc Alexander County★★ £C H Chardonnay OFS Russian River Valley★★★✫ £E NALLE WINERY FERRARI CARANO ● Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley★★ £D ● Merlot Sonoma County★★ £D NAVARRO VINEYARDS H Chardonnay Alexander Valley★★ £E ● Pinot Noir Mendocino County★★ £D H Chardonnay Reserve Carneros★★★ £E H Gewürztraminer Anderson Valley★★ £C H Fume Blanc Sonoma County★ £C OPTIMA FETZER ● Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley★★★ £F ● Zinfandel Valley Oaks California★ £B H Chardonnay Russian River Valley★★★ £D FREEMAN PACIFIC ECHO ● Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast★★★ £E H Brut Non Vintage Anderson Valley★✫ £C HANDLEY H Brut Vintage Blanc de Blancs Anderson Valley★★✫ £E H Chardonnay Dry Creek Valley★★ £E H Brut Vintage Private Reserve Anderson Valley★★★ £E H Sauvignon Blanc Dry Creek Valley★★ £D J Brut Vintage Rose Anderson Valley★✫ £D HANNA PEZZI KING ● Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley★★ £F ● Zinfandel Maple Vineyard Dry Creek Valley★★★✫ £E ● Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Valley★★★ £F RANDOM RIDGE ● Zinfandel Bismark Ranch Sonoma Valley★★★ £E ● Cabernets Mount Veeder★★★✫ £E HAYWOOD ● Zinfandel Old Wave Sonoma Valley★★★ £D ● Zinfandel Los Chamizal Vineyard Sonoma Valley★★✫ £C QUIVIRA HIDDEN CELLARS ● Zinfandel Dry Creek★★✫ £D ● Petite Sirah Heritage Eaglepoint Ranch Mendocino★★ £E H Sauvignon Blanc Fig Tree Vineyard Dry Creek Valley★✫ £C HOP KILN SADLER WELLS ● Marty Griffin’s Big Red California★✫ £B ● Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast★★★ £E J WINE COMPANY H Chardonnay Carneros★★★ £D H Chardonnay Russian River Valley★✫ £E SBRAGIA FAMILY H Pinot Gris Russian River Valley★ £C H Chardonnay Dry Creek Valley★★★✫ £E H Vintage Brut Russian River Valley★✫ £D H Chardonnay Gamble Ranch Napa Valley★★★★ £E JORDAN SCHERRER VINEYARD H Chardonnay Estate Sonoma County★ £D ● Pinot Noir Russian River★★★✫ £E ● Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Sonoma County★ £E ● Zinfandel Old and Mature Vines Alexander Valley★★✫ £D KENWOOD VINEYARDS SEBASTIANI ● Zinfandel Jack London Sonoma Valley★★ £D ● Cabernet Sauvignon Cherry Block Sonoma Valley★★★✫ £F ● Cabernet Sauvignon Jack London Sonoma Valley★★✫ £E SEBASTOPOL H Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma Valley★ £C ● Syrah Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley★★ £E KUNDE ESTATE H Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley★★ £D ● Zinfandel Sonoma Valley★★ £D PHILIP STALEY H Sauvignon Blanc Magnolia Lane Sonoma Valley★★ £C ● Petite Sirah Dry Creek Valley★★★ £D LAMBERT BRIDGE ● Grenache Staley Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★ £D ● Zinfandel Dry Creek★★ £C ● Coat du Rhone Staley Vineyard Russian River Valley★★✫ £D LANCASTER ESTATE H Viognier Staley Vineyard Russian River Valley★★★ £C ● Lancaster Alexander Valley★★★★ £G H Semillon Dry Creek Valley★★★ £C LAZY CREEK H Duet Sonoma County★★✫ £C H Gewürztraminer Anderson Valley★★✫ £C STUHLMULLER LIMERICK LANE ● Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley★★ £E 603