RadioAparat: Auteur Festival ORDER DELIVERY TO A Soapbox Showcases YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 [email protected]

for Belgrade's Freshest - ISSN 1820-8339 1 Independent Global Film BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 Voices Talent

Page 5 Page 13 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0

Issue No. 240 Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday.

RATKO page 10

MLADIC: hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W EUROPE’S MOST June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday,

WANTED FACES page 5 JUDGMENT conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party E He was a devoted Yugoslav soldier, then a war crimes suspect on the run - now former BosnianFriday • June 13 2008 Serb military chief Ratko Mladic awaits THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED

his verdict for the worst atrocities in on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. Europe since WWII. T

Marija RISTIC 1992-95 conflict, the ICTY will rule on his role in these events, which caused very, very dangerous man.” the deaths of some 100,000 people and This is how the former caused more than two million to flee “Achief prosecutor of the In- their homes.Mladic, now aged 74, was ternational Criminal Tribunal for the born in World War II; in 1943, in the Bos- Former Yugoslavia, Carla Del Ponte, nian village of Bozinovci, some 70 kilo- described the fugitive she hunted for metres south of the capital Sarajevo. more than a decade in order to bring The child of a Yugoslav Communist him for trial for the first genocide on Partisan family, Mladic lost his father as European soil since the defeat of Nazi a three-year-old; he was killed in one of Germany.This month, 22 years since the last battles at the end of WWII. Mladic it initially indicted former Bosnian decided to follow in his father’s footsteps Serb Army general Ratko Mladic for and went to military school in Belgrade. genocide and war crimes committed in Bosnia and Herzegovina during the Continued on pages 2 and 3

During the war in the Former Yugoslavia in the early '90s, Mladic freely admitted that Photo: Anadolu Photo: Flickr/Ian Bancroft offensives were “the main method of my warfare style”.

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Ratko Mladic: Europe’s Most Wanted Faces Judgment

t 22, he became an officer in Skopje, Macedonia, where he was the young- est member and com- mander of a Yugoslav People’sA Army engineering unit. His military skills were first put to the test at the very beginning of the break- up of Yugoslavia, when he was sent to Croatia to assist local Serbs. In the spring of 1991, he arrived in the Croatian town of Knin, which was a Serb stronghold at the time. “I serve the Socialist Federal Repub- lic of Yugoslavia with my brother offic- ers, in order to protect all nationalities and nations,” he told Serbian public broadcaster RTS. By the time Mladic was appointed commander of the 9th Yugoslav Peo- ple’s Army Corps in Knin in June 1991, the territory was already cut off from the rest of Croatia because rebel Serbs, who had declared the establishment of their Autonomous Territory of Krajina statelet in 1990, had blocked the roads around the town. In August 1991, Mladic ordered an attack on the nearby village of Kijevo in order to lift a retaliatory blockade of Serb settlements by Croatian forces. “In Kijevo, we fired on legitimate mili- tary targets. We didn’t destroy a single house simply for the sake of it,” Mladic told reporters afterwards. But the Croatian prosecution be- lieved otherwise. In July 1992, the county court in the coastal town of Sibenik sentenced Mladic to 20 years’ imprisonment for the attack on Ki- jevo, which left the village totally de- stroyed. The events in Kijevo also an marked important development in the Yugo- slav wars. Under Mladic’s command, Yugoslav People’s Army units, which at the beginning of the conflict in Croa- tia mostly separated warring Croatian and Serb sides, aligned itself with Serb forces. According to the ICTY, that Yugoslav People’s Army attack on Kijevo on Au- gust 26, 1991 marks the moment when it openly took the Serb side in the conflict. After the Yugoslav People’s Army seized the village, local Serbs entered Serbian Orthodox Patriarch Pavle, who served in this capacity from 1990 until his death in 2009, with Bosnian Serb leader and convicted war criminal Radovan Karadzic, along with Ratko Mladic in Sokolac, near Sarajevo, on July 2 1995. Photo: Anadolu and took over. This model was used all over the former Yugoslavia - in Croa- tia, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Ko- litical leadership about the possibility Shoot slowly, at intervals, until I order United Nations had declared a “pro- all your men, who are armed, even if prisoners captured in the area around Serb military lieutenants, and then, in Mladic’s defence lawyers recently sovo. The units and military insignia of genocide on the day before the war you to stop,” he added. tected zone” two years earlier. they committed crimes, and commit- Srebrenica were summarily executed the final years before he was caught, claimed that his health significantly changed, but the strategy remained the broke out. Mladic’s defence That night, many buildings in cen- Mladic arrived in Srebrenica with a ted crimes against my people, to hand from 13 July to 19 July 1995. The killings on his family. deteriorated while he was in detention same. Milovanovic testified that Mladic told tral Sarajevo were set ablaze. More smile on his face, congratulating the in their weapons to the VRS [Bosnian continued thereafter.” On May 26, 2011, police special in The Hague, and suggested might be Bosnian Serb leaders in May 1992: “We team, his relatives’ than 100 wounded people were soldiers who met him in the streets of Serb Army],” Mladic told representa- forces went to the Serbian village of incapable. TAKING THE cannot [ethnically] cleanse, we don’t visits to the brought to the city’s hospitals in a mat- You can either the now-deserted town. tives of the people of Srebrenica who ON THE Lazarevo to raid a house owned by a They asked for the verdict to be post- FIGHT TO BOSNIA have a sieve to sift so that only Serbs ter of hours. Cameras recorded the general’s attended one meeting with members RUN IN SERBIA relative of Mladic. They went into the poned to determine if he was mentally can stay, and others leave… I don’t know detention unit Those who stayed in the besieged survive or disappear. movements and Bosnian Serb televi- of the Dutch UN Battalion that was house and then tried to enter one of and physically capable of participat- The war spilled over into Bosnia and how [Bosnian Serb political leaders] Mr. city remember months spent living In order for you to sion reported on the “liberation” of the based there. The war in Bosnia ended in August the rooms, but someone was behind ing in his trial. Prior to his arrest in 2011, Herzegovina the year afterwards, with [Radovan] Karadzic and Mr. [Momcilo] and aid to him in fear, as people were killed queuing town, which tens of thousands of Bos- On July 12, Mladic arrived in the vil- 1995 with the Datyon peace agree- the door - an elderly man in a baseball he had suffered three strokes. many Bosnian Serb officers now leav- Krajisnik will explain this to the world. personally have for water and bread, or running across survive, I am asking niaks were then fleeing. lage of Potocari near Srebrenica, ac- ment; a month earlier, Mladic had cap. In court, he repeated his wartime as- ing the Yugoslav People’s Army uni- This is genocide, people.” bridges under sniper fire. Hospitals all your men, who are “Here we are in Serb Srebrenica on companied by a TV crew. The cameras already been indicted by the ICTY, al- “Who are you?” police asked. sertion that he was just defending the form for the newly-established, Serb- Under Mladic’s command, the Bos- cost the Hague were shelled, along with museums and July 11, 1995,” Mladic said in the broad- filmed him distributing chocolate bars though the arrest warrant was issued “You have found who you’re look- interests of the Serb people - but the led Army of Repulika Srpska. nian Serb Army spread fear and death libraries. armed, even if they cast. “On the eve of yet another big Serb to children who had not seen such a year later. ing for,” the man responded. “I’m Ratko victims of his forces’ campaigns in Bos- Tribunal, the Serbian President Slobodan Milose- – the city of Sarajevo was shelled for Mladic was unrepentant. “I am just committed crimes, holy day, we are presenting this town luxuries for years, and telling their par- Mladic pledged he would never sur- Mladic.” nia saw it differently. vic didn’t want to be perceived as an more than three years, and towns like Bosnian Serbs defending my people,” he said on many to the Serb people. Finally, the time has ents not to be afraid because “nobody render. “I can only be tried by my peo- His arrest sparked huge protests Izudin Alic, one of the children from aggressor at the time, and instead of Foca, Prijedor and Visegrad were ethni- occasions during the war. He used the and committed crimes come to get even with the Turks for the will do them any harm”. ple,” he declared. in the Serbian capital Belgrade and Srebrenica who Mladic gave choco- sending his own troops, he decided to cally cleansed of Bosnian Muslims. and Serbia around same line at his trial. against my people, to first time since the uprising against Ot- “All of you who want to stay can do In 1997, Mladic moved to Serbia, to- various towns in Republika Srpska. late to in July 1995 before the massa- supply the Bosnian Serb Army with Mladic never conducted his cam- two million euros. toman rule.” so. All those who want to leave this gether with a number of Bosnian Serb His lawyers tried to postpone his ex- cres started, told BIRN earlier this year weapons and men, and make Mladic paigns in secret, and often allowed 'PROTECTOR OF THE SERBS’ hand in their weapons What followed was the mass mur- territory are free to do so. We have se- Army officers. During the war, the Ser- tradition to The Hague on the health that he sometimes asks himself if the the main military strategist. news cameras to film him walking to the VRS [Bosnian der of several thousand men and boys, cured a sufficient number of buses and bian authorities provided Mladic with grounds, but their requests were de- former Bosnian Serb military com- “When I took over my position… I around the cliffs overlooking Sarajevo, Mladic freely admitted that offen- which subsequent indictments and trucks for you,” he promised. weapons, and in peacetime they gave nied, except one - a 40-minute visit mander remembers him. tasked myself with gathering people where the Bosnian Serb siege lasted for sives were “the main method of my Serb Army]. verdicts passed down by international Mladic repeated the same message him shelter. to the grave of his daughter Ana, who “I often wonder about this, when I and forming the command and head- 1,425 days. The civilian population was “And shell the part near Dobrovol- warfare style”. and Bosnian courts have classified as in a meadow in Sandici, in a hangar He appeared to live freely, without killed herself in 1994. see him in The Hague. I wonder if he quarters... I knew immediately that a systematically shelled and targeted by jacka street, and up there around “My goal is simple – the protection of genocide. in Bratunac and at a stadium in Nova fear of arrest, and went out to restau- Mladic made his first appearance in knew all those men would be killed… big historic event was going to hap- snipers, and there were shortages of Humska street and up Djure Djako- Serb territory and the people who have During the night of July 11 to 12, Kasaba, addressing captured Bosniak rants and football matches in the Ser- the ICTY courtroom in The Hague in My father and uncle, all of them…” he pen there,” Mladic told Belgrade-based food, water and electricity. vica street,” he continued, in an au- lived there for ages,” he often explained Mladic held three meetings at the Fon- men and boys who were surrounded bian capital. the summer of 2011. said. news weekly NIN. “Shell Velusici and Pofalici because dio recording that was played at his during the war. tana hotel in Bratunac. The fate of the by Serb soldiers. Until 2003, Mladic was protected by During his six-year trial, he often “What do I feel about him? Nothing! I The Bosnian Serb military chief’s there are not many Serbs in those set- trial. In July 1995, just a few months before wretched people of Srebrenica was Instead, those who were captured the Serbian military establishment, provoked war victims who were at- am only glad that he was arrested and right-hand man, General Manojlo Mi- tlements,” Mladic ordered on May 28, “Can you shell Bascarsija? Fire a salvo the conflict ended in Bosnia and Her- Ratko Mladic the subject of those meetings. or who surrendered were shot dead. but when Belgrade adopted a law on tending hearings, refused to comply that he is on trial,” Alic added. lovanovic, told the Hague Tribunal in 1992, mispronouncing the Sarajevo set- at Bascarsija. Keep the presidency and zegovina, Mladic’s forces captured the in Srebrenica on “You can either survive or disappear. According to the ICTY indictment cooperation with the ICTY, Mladic had with the judge’s orders and regularly “He should answer for all that he did 2013 that Mladic had warned his po- tlement of Velesici. parliament buildings under direct fire. eastern town of Srebrenica, which the July 11, 1995 In order for you to survive, I am asking of Mladic in 2002, “more than 7,000 to rely on a closer group of his Bosnian complained about his health. in Srebrenica.” 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE Belgrade Awaits Grand New Bus Station Construction of the new terminus, which could start next spring, will hopefully relieve the city centre of the masses of buses clogging the streets.

Maja ZIVANOVIC

new bus station for the Serbian capital with 35 platforms and 55 Aparking lots for longer bus stops, as well as an underground public garage with 200 spaces, should open by 2019, The future design of the new bus terminal on a rainy day in Block 42, New Belgrade. Photo: Beoinfo unless unexpected delays get in the way. The new bus terminus will be locat- One reason for the previous delays or will the last deadline for its opening more phases must be completed be- Mayor Mali in July told Serbia’s Tan- ed in Novi Beograd, Block 42, on 9.25 over the new station were problems be broken?” Politika wondered in No- fore a building permit is issued. “This in jug news agency that it was one of the hectares of land, making it almost three with the technical documentation, on vember. all likelihood will have a significant im- city’s most important projects, and times larger than the old one. the basis of which the building permit The newspaper said that although pact on the … construction of the mod- would completely relieve the city cen- However, the daily newspaper Poli- should be issued. Mayor Sinisa Mali has pledged that the ern bus hub,” Politika noted. tre of bus traffic, through which 1,200 tika has warned that the contract be- “All this raises the question: will the foundation stone would be laid by the The investment of 25 million euros in buses currently pass each day. tween the city and the public company first buses from the platforms of the end of November, construction would the new terminus will come from Bel- He promised that construction work RadioAparat broadcasts 26 live programs every week from their workspace at Karadjordjeva 53. Andrija Dinulovic to the right. Photo: Nemanja Knezevic/nk.rs Belgrade Bus Station, BAS, has been future BAS modern bus complex in likely start in the spring of 2018. grade Bus Station company, while the will start by the end of the year and changed four times already. Block 42 start in the summer of 2019, The report underlined that several city will provide the land. would last no longer than 18 months. France Donates €200,000 for Belgrade Monument Restoration RadioAparat: A Soapbox for

Filip RUDIC fered to donate half of the amount. Serbian alliance, nationalist groups have in February 2008, by a group of soccer France has raised The French embassy in Belgrade, the in the past targetted the the monument, hooligans. Belgrade's Independent Voices 200,000 euros he 1930 monument of a Foreign Ministry and the association perceiving France to have become dis- Painted on the cloth with car spray woman wielding a sword in Souvenir Francais organised fundraisers tant from its friendship with Serbia. were the words: “To France, with to rennovate her hand symbolises France during 2015 and 2016, even beating their After NATO started bombing of Presi- which we spilled blood and prayed The largely five people. But it has swiftly turned working in the Belgrade media sector Since RadioAparat started broad- Tcoming to Serbia’s aid against set 200,000 euro goal. dent Slobodan Milosevic’s Yugoslavia, in for, and is now gone“ in Serbian and into a vibrant cultural community of either fired from their positions or left casting its shows in 2016, many people a historic Austria-Hungary. However, its condition On November 13, Faye signed an agree- 1999 with the participation of France, the French. volunteer-run more than 50 (mostly) volunteers, who their positions due to governmental contacted the station at their own initia- has severely deteriorated due to lack of ment on behalf of the French embassy monument was wrapped in black canvas Most recently, in April 2017, around are also involved with a variety of other influence over the content provided by tive wanting to make their own shows, monument in funds for maintainance. to transfer the funds to the Belgrade and people posted a sign saying “Eternal a hundred people protested in front web radio service local organisations. various media channels. says one manager, 26-year-old Andrija The metal construction has corroded Institute for the Protection of Cultural Glory to France Which Is No More“. While of the monument against a French "Other [Serbian] radio stations today Studio B, a Belgrade-based media Dinulovic. Belgrade which over time, while the stone pedastal has Monuments. the Serbian government says that more court’s decision not to extradite former "RadioAparat" do not have the ability to broadcast mu- outlet which is owned by Maxim Media RadioAparat is "It has become a community," he celebrates the been damaged by water seeping through The Institute’s acting director, Olivera than 2,500 people died during the 78 Kosovo Liberation Army commander sic and programs they would like to … D.O.O., serves as one example in which says. the cracks, weakening the structure, said Vuckovic, said that the Serbian Ministry days of the NATO military campaign turned politician, Ramush Haradinaj, celebrated its we are the only radio station today that the whole news team essentially got re- different … FM radio Dasic told BIRN that the precise num- alliance between the French embassy’s Charge d'Affaires of Labour has already set aside 22 million aimed at driving Slobodan Milosevic's to Serbia. functions like this," says 31-year-old Mi- placed during 2015 and 2016. has turned into ber of listeners is unclear due to the lim- Nicolas Faye, Serbian media reported. dinars (around 200,000 euros) for the forces out of Kosovo, a Human Rights The group, composed mostly of fami- first birthday los "Mimi" Dasic, who is one of the main One former radio personality from ited means by which to measure traffic. Serbia and France Faye said that the cost of its repair was monument’s reconstruction, and that the Watch assessment said that 450-550 lies of Serb victims from the Kosovo war, show hosts at RadioAparat. Studio B, Svetlana "Ceca" Djolovic, joined something – well, it is However, he says that they get around estimated at 400,000 euros in 2012 in a works should be finished for the centen- civilians died. wrapped the statue in black cloth and on November 1, During its first year of existence, Ra- RadioAparat at its inception in Novem- 1,000 online listeners daily. in World War I. joint study conducted by Serbian and nial of the end of World War I. It was wrapped in a banner once again held up banners bearing pictures of their dioAparat gained wide recognition ber last year, and together with Dasic, influenced "And the number of listeners is ex- French defense ministries. France of- Because the statue marks the French- after Kosovo declared independence lost family members. consolidating its and an international audience, as it dis- she constitutes one of the only three em- panding every day," he adds. persed the voices of Belgrade's biggest ployed radio hosts at RadioAparat. by the state and under Although Kolektiv Gallery and Ra- importance as music enthusiasts, as well those from dioAparat stand firmly against com- the NGO sector. FROM EAST serious mercial developments in the Savamala ORDER DELIVERY TO one of Serbia's According to Dasic, the station trans- MANHATTAN TO area, since demolitions took place in YOUR DOOR mits 26 live programs every week. SAVAMALA control. April 2016, it has become filled with ex- Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 few independent Twelve of the shows are usually musi- pensive nightclubs, bars and cafes. [email protected] cal programs, while 18 are fronted by Dimitrovic began to realise his pas- Cultural institutions such as the for- Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight media outlets. various activists from the NGO sector, sion in 2008. During his architectural mer Mikser House and Stab Gallery, including staffers from the city maga- studies in New York, he became an ea- close to Branko's Bidge, which repre- zine "Lice Ulice". RadioAparat also cov- ger listener of online channel East Vil- sent local entrepreneurial initiatives, MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT INTERGALACTIC DINNER INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF FLY FLY TRAVEL ers a range of topics from cooking dis- lage Radio – a free live web programme are no longer in action. What was once Address: Cika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 BELGRADE Address: YUBC Bulevar Mihajla cussions to serious political panels. established in East Manhattan in 2003. Mikser House is now a nightclub called Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Temisvarska 19 Pupina 10v Siri SOLLIE "Belgrade really has a fantastic al- Inspired by the New York radio sta- "Hype". RadioAparat's first birthday HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA Mihajla Pupina 85A ternative scene – there is a very well- tion, Dimitrovic decided there was a challenged the more recent currents, Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT DVA JELENA n Karadjordjeva street 53, developed subculture. But, the fact is, niche in Belgrade for a similar idea. Zoran Dimitrovic managing to stay afloat despite the at- Address: Skadarska 32 just over the road from not a single media [outlet] exists that With the help of his urban architectural mosphere. SCHOOL OF BELGRADE architect and RadioAparat-initiator HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF TOURIST ORGANISATION OF Address: Smetanina 12 where the notorious cultur- acknowledges this scene," says 42-year- firm, Kolektiv Architects, he initiated Dimitrovic says that they are con- Address: Studentski trg 9 Restaurant Mali vrabac SERBIA al hub Mikser House once old Zoran Dimitrovic, one of the driving the inception of RadioAparat – with the cerned about developments in the area Skadarska 34 Address: Trg Republike 5 O Address: RADISSON BLU OLD stood, lies Kolektiv Gallery and Archi- forces behind RadioAparat, Kolektiv help of other media professionals such and he and his peers have lost vital CAFE SNEZANA MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE tects – a meeting point for urban archi- Gallery and Architects. as Djolovic. players, such as the aforementioned NATIONAL FOUNDATION Address: Knez Mihailova 50 HOTEL MERIOT Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 tects who, this time last year, started "RadioAparat is different … FM radio "It was more on the level of an experi- Mikser House, when it comes to efforts FOR DANCE Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade transmitting radio programmes online has turned into something – well, it is in- ment than some serious plan. Now we cessors, RadioAparat still managed to to accommodate local culture. Address: Kolarceva 3 KOLARAC alongside their usual architectural fluenced by the state and under serious have serious programs and plans for get off the ground. However, he says they are not too dis- BISTRO BAR Address: Studentski trg 5 FLY FLY TRAVEL Address: Kolarceva 7 businesses. control," he says. the future – but in the beginning it was "It is interesting, it is something that couraged yet. Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 RESTAURANT BIZU Address: Aerodrom pult The online radio station, www.ra- Increasing censorship (which has not really possible to foresee its course," we made by ourselves … it was not "We will keep doing our work and we HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 dioaparat.com, broadcasts live and pre- constrained Serbian media outlets ever says Dimitrovic. planned, it was a trial project, and we will we see in time whether we will look Address: Kneza Milosa 5 SKVER 44 FLY FLY TRAVEL recorded programmes 24/7. Initially, more tightly over the past couple of With only two microphones, one did not expect for it to last a year," Dim- for a new working space," says Dimitro- Address: Pozeska 44a Address: Knez Mihailova 4 RadioAparat was the brainchild of just years) has seen many people who were mixing console and two computer pro- itrovic says. vic. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 7 SERBIA BUSINESS COMMENT Serbia's IMF Arrangement Know Thy Neighbour Ends on High Note The main barrier to warmer Belgrade's 1.2 relations billion euro Stand- By Arrangement between Albania with the IMF is and Serbia is not slowly coming irreconcilable to its end on a differences, but positive note, ignorance. though experts warn that some serious challenges for the economy still lie ahead.

Tirana’s main square Photo: Flickr/Peter Stevan VELJOVIC

nder the IMF's watchful eye, over the past three years, Serbia has curbed its growing fiscal deficit, Srdjan GARCEVIC which was 6.6 per cent inU 2014, and its public debt, which was few weeks ago I went to near 75 per cent of the country's GDP at Tirana for a conference the end of 2015 – 30 per cent above the about relations between legal ceiling. Serbia and Albania, joint- "Significant fiscal over-performance ly organised by the Alba- has continued," the IMF mission said in James Roaf, head of the IMF mission for Serbia and Dusan Vujovic, the Serbian Finance Minister. Photo: Beta nianA Institute for International Studies a laudatory press release on November and the European Movement in Serbia. 8, following the eighth and final review One of the topics of the conference was under the arrangement. modest given Serbia's still weak econo- porate advisory and investment firm, most profitable, company in Serbia and the public perception of the relation- "The general government balance for my and its needs. told BIRN that it is in the public interest wider region", he noted. ship between the two countries, which this year is projected to be around zero, "Since the 2008 financial crisis, Ser- to promote the reform of state-owned He compared EPS to the Czech utility made me instinctively shudder. compared to the original budget deficit bia has been struggling to achieve and enterprises, known as SOEs. CEZ in which the state owns the compa- Despite the recent displays of friend- target of 1.7 percent of GDP. The public sustain high growth rates," Ljubodrag "State-Owned Enterprises in Serbia ny but it is run by professional manage- ship between the Albanian Prime Min- debt-to-GDP ratio fell to 65.4 per cent at As things stand, Savic, professor of economics at the and the wider Western Balkan region ment, which prevents politicians and ister Edi Rama and Serbian President end-September, more than 10 per cent University in Belgrade, recalled. often demonstrate symptoms of sys- parties from interfering with business and former Prime Minister Aleksandar of GDP below the 2015 peak," the IMF layoffs – particularly He noted that Serbia only restored its temic corruption and under-perfor- decisions and employment. Vucic, a brief look at the comments on statement added. in State-Owned pre-crisis level of GDP in 2016, "which mance, which in turn leads to heavy "Compared to EPS, they produce 1 kil- Balkan Insight's social media posts, not Serbia's "fiscal over-performance" means eight years of lost growth". additional costs for the national budget owatt per hour with a labour force that to mention the Serbian tabloids, paints has convinced the mission, led by Enterprises and in "Serbia's growth rates need to be at and Serbian taxpayers," he explained. is two times smaller," he added. a very grim picture for cooperation be- James Roaf, to agree to government least 5 per cent if we want to reduce the "As things stand, layoffs – particularly Although the IMF's presence has not tween the two states. Playing chess in Albania´s capital. Photo: Flickr/Andreas Lehner The Kokonozi Mosque in Tirana. Photo:Flickr/Kevin Jasini plans to increase salaries by 5 to 10 per public administration gap with more developed European in State-Owned Enterprises and in pub- prompted Serbia to fully reform its pub- In almost any comment thread with cent for employees in social services, countries," he told BIRN. lic administration – seem inevitable. lic companies as yet, Savic still believes an Albanian and Serb, there is one- ly spread paranoia about a possible Yu- Sultan during the battle of Kosovo in rated ignorance gives you the ability to bers of young Albanians and Serbs to civil servants and pensioners – whose – seem inevitable. "The present growth rates allow us Now that Serbia has finally managed that the country has benefited from the upmanship around who came to the goslav invasion of the country, which 1389, and Skanderbeg, a 15th Century represent 'the other' as you see fit. interact with each other in person, ide- payments were cut in late 2014 as a part Now that Serbia to survive, but we can't move up from to sustain positive economic momen- program. Balkans first (more than a millennium was at least in part responsible for the nobleman who resisted the Ottomans, In order to justify your actions and pre- ally over bottles of local grappa rather of austerity measures. The increases the bottom of the development scale," tum, commitment to structural reform "It helped Serbia to solve problems ago), heated disputes about ethnicity construction of the country's many are considered heroes in both nations, tensions, you will project the negative 'Bal- than through pointless internet discus- will come into effect next January. has finally managed Savic asserted. is vital for sustaining future growth," with public finances and although a of great people who have been dead bunkers. no matter their tangled origins. kan stereotypes' of aggression, uncouth- sions, most of the problems in our rela- "Along with the agreed wage and More robust growth is only possible Oreskovic said. new arrangement is not needed, Serbia for several centuries and discussions All these rumours and exaggerations Few would mention that King Zog of ness and squalor on your neighbours. tions will be solved. pension increases, the 2018 fiscal defi- to sustain positive by enhancing industrial production and Savic said the IMF was looking at pub- could still benefit from its presence, as of who was more noble in the many ig- thrive because, on a very basic level, we Albania spent a part of his exile in 1924 These belittling perspectives are ex- On my way back to Belgrade, I ac- cit is projected at 0.7 per cent of GDP – a by increasing exports, he continued. lic companies such as EPS and Srbijagas, an impartial source of information on noble clashes between the two nations are ignorant about each other's coun- partying in Belgrade, and was helped cellent political tools as well as prod- cidentally picked up the Three Arched level consistent with fiscal sustainabil- economic momentum, Savic recalled also by way of compari- the power and gas utilities, from the per- the economy," he concluded. since their emancipation from the Ot- tries, despite sharing a relatively small by the Yugoslav Karadjordjevic dy- ucts of cultural insecurities, borne from Bridge, Ismail Kadare's 1970s novella ity and further public debt reduction," commitment to son that, back in 1990, Serbia exported spective of public finances, as their debts tomans. space and a lot of joint history. nasty in his return to power in Alba- the fear that we really don't have much that tells a story about the power of nar- the mission stated. goods worth 5.9 billion US dollars, only posed a potential risk for the budget. Then, of course, there is the topic of Perceptions of travel to Albania nia. It is also often forgotten that the to show to the world: how else to ex- ratives. In the story, an old legend, coin- Despite Serbia's overall good results, structural reform is around 300 million dollars less than "However, with better management, Journalist Akin Nazli also contributed Kosovo, where the coexistence of eth- between Serbs still range from "wild late Yugoslav leader Josip Broz Tito plain overly-heated debates about triv- cidentally one that is shared between the IMF urges the Belgrade government the Czech Republic; a decade later, the EPS has the potential to be the biggest, to this story. nic Albanians and Serbs in the past cen- and dangerous" to "wild and exciting". and Enver Hoxha were initially very ial matters such as the origins of songs, Albanians and Serbs, is tinkered with to to fully implement its reform agenda. vital for sustaining Czech car producer Skoda on its own tury was marked with horrific atroci- While bookish Serbs eagerly devour chummy. dishes and dead people? justify violence, which in the end leads This includes dealing with structural earned some 11 billion dollars, which was ties and tensions, which itself provides Haruki Murakami's or Mario Vargas In order to focus on differences, we The fantastic conference I attended to the destruction of a community. weaknesses in the public sector, such future growth. equal to Serbia's total exports at the time. enough vitriol to poison relations be- Llosa's books, few would have heard of routinely gloss over the centuries of in Tirana, with very knowledgeable The only way to fight myths is knowl- as the resolution of problems with ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ tween the two nations. Ismail Kadare, Albania's Man Booker very similar histories of the two na- participants from both sides, eager to edge – Serbs and Albanians desper- state-owned companies, accelerating STATE FIRM LAYOFFS ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” Unfortunately, these mutual (mis) International Prize-winning novelist, tions, from life as poor peasants under cooperate and find out more about ately need to get to know each other as public administration reform and fur- SEEM INEVITABLE RESTAURANT KOVAČ perceptions are not a recent thing. In despite his greater cultural proximity. the Ottoman Empire to life as poor each other, provided a great blueprint neighbours, so that they can free them- ther improvement of business environ- modern ethno restaurant the 19th Century, when Serbia was ea- This ignorance about each other is citizens of post-Communist countries, for improving relations between the selves from toxic old narratives and ment. Another upcoming major challenge ger for expansion towards the Adriatic, also reinforced by frequent omissions knocking on the EU's doors. two countries. Over two days, we real- start forging better new ones. for the government and society will be Vladan Djordjevic, who served as Ser- of many instances of cooperation be- This ignorance, however, is not acci- ised that by getting to know each other WEAK GROWTH Luka Oreskovic the reform of public companies. bian prime minister for a while, wrote tween the two countries in the narra- dental. better we could not only bond over Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a REMAINS A WORRY partner at Spitzberg Partners This includes restructuring of public that Albanians have tails and live in tives of our "historic, deep rooted" ha- In the Balkans, where national identi- common problems, from pressures on founder of The Nutshell Times blog. utilities such as EPS and Srbijagas, and trees, having relayed these racist ru- tred. We routinely fail to remember that ties are fluid and state-building is recent, journalists to poverty, but could also The IMF mission has also acknowl- It forecast that Serbia's GDP would resolving the fate of loss-making state- mours from particularly malevolent Albanians and Serbs stood side by side not knowing about your neighbour is use each other's experiences. The opinions expressed in the Com- edged the fall in the unemployment grow between 2 per cent and 3.5 per owned firms such as Resavica, Azotara, foreign travel writers. in the battles against the incoming Otto- key in preserving the myth of your own My experience of Tirana and my Al- ment section are those of the authors rate, which fell from 19.2 in 2014 on aver- cent in 2018. MSK, RTB BOR and HIP Petrohemija. During his long reign, Enver Hoxha, man armies. Milos Obilic (or Kopiliq), a uniqueness and relative superiority on banian hosts' warm welcome left me only and do not necessarily reflect the age to 11.8 per cent in the second quar- Despite the positive news, however, Luka Oreskovic, a partner at Spitz- Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com Albania's Stalinist dictator, continuous- knight who assassinated the Ottoman which nationalism depends. This cu- hopeful that if we get sufficient num- views of BIRN. ter of 2017. experts warn that this growth rate is berg Partners, a New-York-based cor- 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 9 REGION FACES Freedom POLITICAL ACTIVISM Bubbles Away Under CLOSE TO HOME torical scar on her family's personal opposition Free Citizens Movement, lives; "a living room with a seal of huge led by Sasa Jankovic, the former Ser- Ground in historical flows." bian Ombudsman and a runner up in "I am not sure there are so many liv- Serbia's 2017 presidential elections. ing rooms in Sweden or Oklahoma Possibly the most important part of where history stuttered, and that is the mother-daughter intimate conver- Transnistria why I think it helps people better un- sation is the one about the responsibil- derstand this area," Turajlic says, add- ity of each generation to fight for their ing that not all family members see the own future. is slowly bolstering assorted civil soci- door the same way. "She [Srbijanka] is part of a genera- In a club beneath ety groups in the territory – and nota- "For my mother, they are nothing tion that is leaving the scene…The ques- bly encouraging citizen journalism in a more than a reality." tion is how is my generation ready to the surface of the depleted media environment. While the film does not leave the enter that scene now and how much Transnistria is not recognized as home apartment, Turajlic explains are we – both as a generation and as grey capital of the a state by any UN member country. that in order to picture everyday life in individuals - interested in a political Soviet-style break- Home to around 500,000 people, it has Serbia, she used a window to film what engagement or a social battle," Turajlic been in a "frozen" conflict with neigh- was happening on the city streets. says, adding she is very ambivalent to- away region, a bouring Moldova for 25 years, from "There are things [in the film] that wards taking part in it. which it separated as the Soviet Union I filmed earlier, in 2005. I decided to Turajlic believes she is not the only new generation is crumbled – rendering the territory po- experience everyday life in Serbia by pessimistic one of her generation. litically, economically and culturally looking through the window as the "Maybe we are a bit more realistic speaking out and stunted. apartment is in such a position that a and maybe we believe less in those It has its own currency and flag, lot of interesting things took place in dramatic social revolutions because having fun at the which feature the famed symbol of front of it," she says. we saw the failure of their [her moth- proletarian unity: the hammer and Throughout the film, Mila talks to er's] generation," she claims. same time. sickle. But it survives on Russian eco- her activist mother Srbijanka about But in the end, Turajlic argues, both nomic, military and diplomatic sup- political engagement, Srbijanka's fights generations are fighting the same bat- port. against the regime and personal disap- tle – a battle for "a state with a func- Glen JOHNSON For many, the club is an opportunity pointments caused by her activism. tioning legal system, for a state with to break the monotony of life in this Srbijanka, born in 1946, is a retired less social inequalities…for a more just erched on snug cushions narrow slither of land, located on the university professor and was one of world." surrounding a makeshift eastern bank of the winding Dniester the loudest opponents to late Serbian However, Turajlic warns that in or- table, a group of late teens River, wedged between Ukraine and strongman Slobodan Milosevic as well der to achieve all that, individuals in sip at cups of piping hot Moldova. as a member of the Otpor Movement Serbia have to "start with their own tea and hunt a nighttime "I really like it [the club]," says be- that opposed his rule. The film also lives and think of how much we give to Pkiller. spectacled and wire-thin 18-year-old shows some of her speeches held at society and how much we want to take "I believe that you are the murderer," Vova Vanchin, who was quickly elimi- anti-Milosevic rallies until he was top- from it." says one young woman, pointing an nated from the Mafia game, and is now pled from power on October 5, 2000. "How many moves do we make accusing finger at another member of watching the players continue their After Milosevic's fall, Srbijanka because we will benefit from them, the group. "My intuition tells me so." search for the murderers. served in the Ministry of Higher Educa- and how many moves do we make A vote is held and the accused, hap- The remaining villagers are peril- tion and Sport as an assistant minister because we want more people to ben- less, is swiftly rounded on, deemed ously close to being overwhelmed: the from 2001 to 2004. efit?" she asks. guilty and eliminated from the role- mafia just killed the village doctor. In 2009, she won the Conquering The Other Side of Everything will be play game, known as "Mafia", in which A performance music student with Freedom prize (Osvajanje Slobode), for shown at the Sava Centre on Wednes- several mafia killers stalk a village in his check shirt buttoned up and tucked her contribution to the victory of de- day, November 29th at 8pm as part of the dead of night and the villagers hunt into a pair of denim jeans, Vanchin says mocracy in Serbia. Belgrade's Auteur Film Festival. For for their tormentors during the day. he visits the club mostly for the weekly Srbijanka, still politically very active, more information about the tickets, However, the accused was no mur- language classes. He wants to improve now supports the recently-established visit www.faf.rs. derer: the mob got it wrong. The play- his English enough to watch his fa- ers are put back to "sleep". vorite Hollywood films. And, as they dream their uneasy Hobbits racing across Middle Earth, Battle rap in the subterranean venue – Club 19 – in downtown Tiraspol. Photo: Facebook/ Клуб #19 dreams, the killer strikes again. pursued by goblin and wraith; Iron In the subterranean venue – Club Man and other Marvel "Avengers" bat- 19 – in downtown Tiraspol, clusters tling extraterrestrials bent on global Benz dealership – have forged an eco- boys lay down the teen angst, via a ka- Turajlic's films Turajlic says she got the idea of making the film from the German author Thomas Mann and his novel Buddenbrooks. Photo: TOSE of youth from the isolated territory of dominance. nomic monopoly and muscled their raoke machine. Mila Turajlic is best known for her ground-breaking documentary Transnistria gather almost daily for a Yet, daily life in Transnistria remains. way visibly into politics. "Sometimes people are afraid of Cinema Komunisto (2011), which tells the story of rich raft of events promoting democracy "I am sad that neither the economy The judiciary is reportedly subordi- speaking in public," says Kucheriavt- civil wars and the aftermath of the Oc- sonal experiences of family members cinematography during Tito's Yugoslavia. The film uses rare and free speech. nor the politics are good in Transnis- nate to the executive and prisons have seva, "but here we have an opportunity Serbian film direc- tober 5 revolution. always come first," Turajlic says. footage from many forgotten Yugoslav films, archive from film sets "We believe freedom of speech is tria," says Vanchin. "But, we are not a a reputation for using torture and ex- to express our thoughts." "It [the documentary] is about these In The Other Side of Everything, I am sad that neither tor Mila Turajlic's as well as Tito's private film screenings. important," Alexandra Gribinenko, 22, particularly Soviet country, like people tortion. At a recent English language night, great revolutions or great historical which had its world premiere at the the venue's administrator and a foreign think. And it is calm here." the economy nor the Most of the media are state-owned attendees sat in a semi-circle. One man new documen- twists. It is somewhat also about the ex- Toronto International Film Festival in languages major, says. Outside the venue, Soviet-era apart- or subservient to private interests and who works for Transnistria's revered tent to which politics and history affect September, the action unfolds around Cinema Komunisto earned Turajlic 16 awards both in Serbia and The club represents a rare bubble of ment blocks sprawl, fringing broad and politics are good in loathe to criticize the authorities. soccer team, Sheriff Tiraspol, said he tary focuses on every aspect of our lives and each fam- a door that has been locked for 70 abroad. free thought in a territory where free- immaculately maintained boulevards, Some 2,000 Russian troops remain wanted to learn English so he could ily," Turajlic told BIRN. years inside Turajlic's family apart- dom of expression and association are Transnistrian and Russian flags flitter- Transnistria, but, we deployed here, maintaining the 1992 better get to know people when the her own family, The documentary portrays Serbia ment in downtown Belgrade. Many think Turajlic's art work is inspired by communism and tightly constrained – and where many ing above. are not a particularly ceasefire with Moldova and guarding team played away games. and its society through the history of a The locked door dividing the family Tito's Yugoslavia, but she says that isn't the case. While Cinema look favorably on Moscow and back to People hasten to catch Marshrutka a massive stockpile of Soviet weap- A high school student said she comparing how single family, with filming taking place home in two is a legacy of post-World Komunisto took her "into that direction accidentally", The Other Soviet times. [shared taxis], whisking them past Ti- Soviet country, like onry, some of which occasionally leaks wanted to learn English to improve her exclusively in the Turajlic's family War II Yugoslavia, when the commu- Side of Everything has only a few sentences about communism. "This is not something that people in raspol's lush, overgrown parks and the onto the black market. The Russian chances of attending an American uni- far each genera- apartment in the centre of Belgrade. nist authorities would house people our region are so familiar with," Grib- few remaining symbols of Soviet rule: a people think. And it is presence makes a speedy resolution versity. tion should go in The film director explains it was who lived in apartments they consid- The focus of her art work is rather on the place where she comes inenko says. "We like to hold events towering statue of Lenin, the occasion- calm here. of the Moldova-Transnistria standoff The conversations that evening var- important to her from the very begin- ered too big, divide the flat and bring from, and on the overall political and social climate she is that are fun, though." al T-34 tank or a warplane. unlikely. ied. fighting for a better ning that the story remained in the another person or a family to live there. surrounded by, the director explains. The youngsters gather for screen- The authorities recently opened up All of which makes Club 19 more im- Discussions about America's role in apartment's walls: "In that way I tried to The latter were called 'sustanari', or ings of popular Hollywood films. Eyes the territory slightly – easing border portant. The volunteers here, however, the world – its military interventions future. make one country's microcosms out of co-tenants across the former Yugo- "I think that in the end each and every author is dealing with their skip across photographs of Apollo restrictions and allowing foreigners to report no official harassment. in Afghanistan, Iraq and Libya – gave one apartment, one family home." slavia. Such actions provoked a silent roots [in their work], with the history and stories about their place, astronauts, displayed on the venue's make extended visits – and there have Animal welfare and feminist way to expressions of support for Cata- Ivana NIKOLIC Turajlic says she got the idea of rage among people whose apartments and with the way our own identities are shaped by all that today," walls, as people are encouraged to de- been notable improvements in politi- thought are discussed during infor- lonia's independence movement, then making a documentary about a sin- were divided, as many saw the move she says. bate well-known moon landing con- cal competition. mal group conversations. Occasion- moved on to anger about a hit-and-run he Other Side of Every- gle family's story and then using it to as wrong and unjust. spiracy theories. With a young generation growing ally, a diplomat from foreign parts will a few days earlier, when a speeding car thing (Druga Strana Sve- explain the country's history from the On the other side, Communists con- She is currently working on a new film - The Labudovic Reels – At one recent guitar night, tentative up on Instagram and Youtube, as the Vova Vanchin swing by. Ambitious young rappers driven by one of the Transnistrian elite ga) premieres in Belgrade Nobel Prize-winning German author sidered such apartment owners to be that will likely be released this time next year. It is about Stevan th fingers slipped across strings for a first Soviet era grows ever more distant, the battle in Russian, their baseball caps killed a child. on November 29 . The Thomas Mann and his novel Budden- pre-World War II bourgeoisie and thus Labudovic, Tito's cameraman, and the role of cinema in the time; someone strummed a riff by the authorities perhaps have little choice. tilted sideways. Back at the Mafia game, the bespec- documentary covers film brooks. enemies of the regime. They would liberation struggles of Third World Countries, also focusing on the alternative rock band, The Pixies. However, numerous problems re- Elites from Sheriff Enterprises – "It is a good place to meet new peo- tacled Vanchin looks on, somewhat Tdirector Mila Turajlic's own family and "He managed to tell the history of even sometimes ask co-tenants to spy Non-Aligned Movement. It opened around six years ago, un- main. Corruption is widespread, as is which owns supermarkets, petrol sta- ple," says Tanya Kucheriavtseva, a forlorn, as another sleeping villager is her mother's political activism through one country through several genera- on the 'enemies' and report them. der the auspices of a non-governmen- organized crime, according to moni- tions, a phone network, a football club, 21-year-old economics student, sat in slaughtered, ending the game. some of the most turbulent times in tions of one family. But that history Turajlic explains she has always tal organisation called "A Priori", which tors. alcohol factories and even a Mercedes- the venue's "Tea Corner", as several "Oh no," he says. "The mafia has won." Serbian history – thriving nationalism, is always in the background; the per- seen the locked door as a sort of his- 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 11 OUT AND ABOUT HEALTH AND FAMILY Belgrade Catches the Frisbee Golf Bug

Ever wanted to play golf – but found the equipment expensive and a hassle? Well, in Belgrade you can now Bac: The play the sport using Frisbees instead Treasure Trove of of golf clubs. Siri SOLLIE thrown around the beach or a park with friends. The Frisbee used in Frisbee golf weighs around Vojvodina hile some would call it 140 to 175 grams, depending on the type, and can a sport and others just a be thrown by professional players as far as 150 The Bac fortress was rebuilt in the 14th Century to protect the region from the Serbian, and later Ottoman, armies. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic leisure activity, what is metres, according to Neskovic. certain is that Frisbee Golf The rules are simple: you throw the Frisbee to- was mighty once. One of the oldest cit- cultured place in one of his guides to dina was founded, and the baroque When you decide to unwind from or "Disc Golf" has become wards the basket, and where the Frisbee lands is This small town in ies in Vojvodina, Serbia's northern prov- Europe. The fortress was rebuilt in the church dedicated to St Paul, as well as a sightseeing, you should head out increasingly popular the vantage point for the next throw towards the th ince located in the Pannonian plains, 14 Century to protect the region from former catholic convent. to nearby Karadjordjevo, but even worldW wide in the last few years. basket. As in golf, the player who throws the Fris- The rules of Frisbee Golf are similar to the ones in regular golf. Photo: Courtesy of Frizbijak. the Backa region is Bac gave its name to the surrounding the Serbian and later Ottoman armies. Uniquely for Vojvodina, the town there you will not be able to escape Modern Disc Golf was first organised in the US bee in the basket with least tries wins the game. region, Backa, located between the Tisa It remained largely intact throughout also has the remains of a 17th Century history. in the 1960s, and in the last ten years the sport As with regular golf, some walking is required to a wonderland for and the Danube. Despite its many great the Ottoman reign and Habsburg re- Ottoman hammam. Although it is The tiny village is famous for its hunt- has also gained huge popularity in Scandinavian finish the 18-basket tour. history geeks. sights, the town is not widely known conquest, but was blown up during largely a ruin overgrown with weeds, ing grounds and a stud farm, now part countries, amongst others. The Frizbijak team over 2017 has arranged six around Serbia which makes it perfect a Rakoczi's rebellion in the 18th Cen- you can still make out the plumbing of a military-owned resort, which at- It was, therefore, only a matter of time before tournaments (Frizbijak Open) and 17 training for a history geek day trip. tury, when Hungarian nobles rebelled and steam baths where the locals re- tracted grandees after its foundation in this activity reached Belgrade. sessions. The tournaments and training sessions Bac was first mentioned in th6 Cen- against the Habsburgs. Since then the laxed. Just across the Mostonga river the Austro-Hungarian Empire. At Usce Park, between the Museum of Modern are held interchangeably every other Saturday Srdjan GARCEVIC tury Byzantine chronicles, however the city never quite recovered. from the hammam, there is an eerie The resort also contains a villa built Art and the Palace of Serbia, SIV, every weekend, or Sunday at Usce. The Frisbee Golf team also history of its famous fortress probably Another remarkable medieval land- medieval gothic gate which marked the by former Yugoslav leader Josip Broz usually on Sunday afternoons, a group of Frisbee arranged night training and tournaments dur- ome two hours north-west dates back to the 9th Century when it mark in Bac is its Franciscan monas- old entrance to the fortress precinct. Tito where he hosted Queen Elizabeth golf enthusiasts gathers to play Frisbee Golf. ing the summer at the park at Banovo Brdo in of Belgrade, almost at the was inhabited by the Pannonian Avars, tery, which was originally founded by Behind the gate is Kalvarija – a complex II during her state visit in 1972. It was One of Serbia's first Frisbee Golf pioneers, Belgrade. border with Croatia, Bac's one of the many nomadic tribes that the Templars during the town's heyday of shrines dominated by three crosses, also the place where the then Serbian Veselin Neskovic, 38, a founder of the organisa- According to Neskovic, the age of the partici- mighty fortress juts out ma- settled in the region after the fall of the in the 12th Century. It was built on the representing the Stations of the Cross President Slobodan Milosevic and for- tion Frizbijak, told BIRN that the combination of pants ranges from 14 to 64, although most current jestically from the fields and Roman Empire. In the following centu- spot of the town's old cathedral and it and the Passion of Christ. mer Croatian President Franjo Tudj- his active nature and love for freedom and the enthusiasts seem to be around 30 and older. Stree-lined streets of this quiet town. ries the town and the fortress gained contained the first hospital in the whole In the unlikely case that you haven't man met in 1991 to discuss the future of outdoors made him keen to become a Frisbee Golf Although most popular amongst the guys, there As you approach, its damaged tow- prominence and were frequented by of the Pannonian plains before it was had enough history in the town's tiny Yugoslavia. participant. are some woman fans. Tijana Sotic, 32, started ers overlook one-storey homes from Hungarian royalty and used as a place sacked by Mongols. It was rebuilt in centre, there is Bodjani monastery Apart from the storied past, the re- "Everyone can play this sport… with only a little playing Frisbee golf in 2016, and has joined most which elderly ladies snoop on visitors, for entertainment. mixed Romanesque and Gothic style some 15 kilometres west from the town. sort offers hearty game dishes and a effort and investment you can play Frisbee Golf," of the training sessions and tournaments since probably with the passion of medieval In the 12th Century, Bac was a boom- and its honey-coloured tower still looks The monastery is not only beautifully chance to unwind while being driven Neskovic said, also adding that it is also a family then. "I am quite an active person, and found out guards. ing city and an Arab geographer at the over the town. decorated with frescoes, but also con- in old-fashioned carriages, before head- sport in which even children can join in. that I wasn´t too bad at it," Sotic told BIRN. Although its current size and sleepy court of King Roger II of Sicily, al-Idrisi, Close to the monastery is the house tains an icon of the Virgin Mary which ing back home from this wonderful his- Frizbijak was founded during the summer of vibe would suggest otherwise, this town described it as a prosperous, highly where the oldest pharmacy in Vojvo- is believed to cure infertility. toric region. 2015 on the initiative of Nenad Radojevic, 43, who PUTTING SERBIA ON THE MAP was first introduced to the sport while spending some time in the US. After falling in love with Neskovic, together with three other players the game, together with Neskovic and two other from the Frizbijak team, recently took part in an friends, he started to organise Frisbee Golf prac- International Frisbee Golf Tournament in Varad- tice in Belgrade. zin in Croatia, from November 3 to 5. The tourna- "Frizbijak is an organisation that deals with the ment was the sixth arranged by the Croatian Disc 14-17.12. promotion of all Frisbee sport activities, with a Golf Association, Lagoda Disc Golf, with more special program called 'Frisbee Golf Serbia', and than 150 players participating in all. The tourna- BELGRADE FAIR the goal is to position the sport in the country. ment also served as a warm-up for the European We are working on the institutionalisation of the Disc Golf Championship that will be held in 2018, sport; that's our goal," Neskovic explained. again in Croatia. He added that they also promote Ultimate Fris- Neskovic told BIRN that the Frizbijak team bee, which is similar to American Football; as with intends to participate next year in the champi- Frisbee Golf, you throw a Frisbee instead of a ball. onships, when the goal is "to put Serbia on the The organisation also promotes Freestyle Frisbee. international map of Frisbee Golf." As the popularity of Frisbee golf grows abroad, "Our next goal is to establish contact with interest is also increasing in Belgrade, according other Frisbee Golf clubs in Europe. We also to Neskovic. He told BIRN that Belgrade now has intend to contact embassies and countries were 30 to 40 active Frisbee golf players who take part Frisbee Golf is quite developed, and strengthen in the training sessions and tournaments that cooperation, so the sport and activity grow Frizbijak arranges at Usce. here and we can then become competitive on a So, what do you need to join the Frisbee crew global level." and play Frisbee Golf in Belgrade? Neskovic believes the climate for Frisbee Golf According to Neskovic, Frisbee Golf players in is every bit as favourable in Serbia as elsewhere. Belgrade share one thing – a love for nature. In "I think we have all the conditions to create a very terms of equipment, you need only a Frisbee or nice story here," he concluded. two and some loose, comfortable clothes. For more information on how to participate, The Frisbees used in Frisbee Golf should not visit Frizbijak´s website on Facebook at www. be mistaken for the light Frisbees you might have facebook.com/frizbijak 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

Festival of Roma OPERA, BALLET Culture at Dom Om- AND CLASSICAL CLUBBING ladine The 3rd Festival of Roma FRIDAY NOVEMBER 17 Culture and Activism – Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra,

AND LIVE MUSIC FRKA – will take place at Howard Griffiths (conductor), Arts in brief Dom Omladine, on Friday, Sanja Romic (oboe), Ilija M. Kolarac December 8. The Gypsy Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm FRIDAY NOVEMBER 17 • Vladimir Samardzic, Soul Society FRIDAY NOVEMBER 24 Opera/Performance: "After the Club, Skver Mire Trailovic, 9pm Rhapsody Orchestra, led Fear", KPGT, Radnicka 3, 7pm • Consecration + Hill, Bozidarac, • Swing Jazz Night // Jevrem Cosic • Wille & the Bandits, Dom by Perica Vasic, violinist for Evening of opera aria "Viva Radoslava Grujica 3, 8pm i Andrija Vojvodic, Polet, Cetinjska Omladine, Makedonska 22, 9pm the RTS Folk Orchestra, will Puccini", Cukarica Cultural Centr,e • Jasna Jovicevic & Uros Secerov, 15, 9pm • Nadimac + SMF & Goatmare & open the festival, organ- Turgenjevljeva 5, 7pm Ciglana, Slanacki put 26, 10pm • Cikine bombone, Zappa Barka, Hellspades, Bozidarac, Radoslava KOLARAC • Robert Glasper Belgrade Usce bb, 10pm Grujica 3, 8pm ised by the Roma Cultural SATURDAY NOVEMBER 18 Experiment, Soul Society Club, • Macao Milano, Drugstore, Bulevar • The Frajle, Sava Center, Milentija PROGRAMME Centre in cooperation with Skver Mire Trailovic, 9pm Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Popovica 9, 8pm Ballet: Giselle (Adam), National , Belgrade Stark Arena, the National Council of the • FlitaraGauta, Polet, Cetinjska 15, • Edit Select (Ostgut Ton, Soma / • Luis Fonsi Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Bulevar Arsenija Carnojevica 58, Roma National Minority, 9pm UK), Drugstore, Bulevar Despota 7:30pm Stefana 115, 11pm 8pm • Trese Lupa Udara, Zappa Barka, the Ministry of Culture and Quintet concert-flute, oboe, Usce bb, 10pm • Mile Voli Disko + Phillie P, GRAD • Mud House Band, Akademija 28, Nemanjina 28, 10:30pm SOKOJ (Serbian Music Au- clarinet, bassoon, horn, National • Modular Journey w/ SHDW & Cultural Center, Brace Kesmanovica • The Bangcocks, Zappa Barka, Usce thors' Organization). Tickets Library of Serbia, Skerliceva 1, 6pm Obscure Shape, Drugstore, Bulevar 4, 11pm bb, 10pm The Exterminating Angel, Thomas Despota Stefana 115, 11pm • Beyond House Djs All night long, for the event are free, but • REEKO / Pole Group ES, ERIKA, Adès, Met Opera premiere, live from • Sonja Sajzor, Memet, Mikail The Club 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana you must reserve them by Metropolitan New York, Cineplexx Great: Hip Hop & R'n'B Night, GRAD • V!bes, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, 7pm FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17 THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 23 • Ziska, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 7pm 115, 11pm email: [email protected]. Usce Shopping centar, Bulevar Mihajla Cultural Center, Brace Kesmanovica • Blender / Paul Kalkbrenner, 4, 11pm • Danijel Cehranov All Night Long, Concert Hall, 8pm Concert Hall, 8pm Pupina 4, 6:45pm Tranzit Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, Hangar, Knezopoljska 3, 11pm • Bitipatibi & Dj Brka, Club 20/44, Fire International Prodigy Chamber Symphony Orchestra and Choir 11pm • Mystic Stylez, GRAD Cultural Children's Theatre Usce bb, 10pm Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Orchestra RTS, Stanko Jovanovic (conductor), • Barthelemy Vincent, Kaldrma Bar, Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 11pm Festival Returns Aleksandra Jovanovic (soprano), • 50 Grass Goes Intergalactic, • Jan Schulte GER Salon des Conductor: Howard Griffiths Pure Strings Skadarska 40, 8pm Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, 7pm amateurs Dj Brka, Club 20/44, Soloist: Sanja Romic, oboe Special Guest: Quan Yuan, • Ace Ventura, Imago CUK, th Studentski Trg 5, 8pm • Sumatran, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, Usce bb, 11pm Programme: M. Mussorgsky, R. conductor & violin The 14 annual Children's Decanska 14, 11pm Opera: Orpheus (Monteverdi), 7pm • Cherry On Top, DOT Club, • Bitz X Years, DOT Club, Francuska Vaughan Williams, H. Berlioz Conductor: Jean Y. Foo Theatre Festival, taking , premiere, Madlenianum Opera and • Goran Starcevic & John Belk Francuska 6, 11pm 6, 11pm Production: Belgrade Philhar- Programme: A. Vivaldi, P.I. Tranzit Bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, place from November 17 - Theatre, Glavna 32, 7:30pm • PARTY at Four | Joma Maja, monic Orchestra Tchaikovsky 23, will feature 14 children's 11pm Marko Vukovic & Gem.n, KPTM, SATURDAY NOVEMBER 25 • Akioki, Kaldrma Bar, Skadarska 40, Ticket fees: 800 dinars plays staged at 13 theatres. SUNDAY NOVEMBER 19 Zorza Klemensoa 22, 4am SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 18 8pm • Kreso Bengalka LIVE, KPTM, • Ritam Nereda, Dom Omladine, The venues include the • Lea Dobricic with Cristian Marras Makedonska 22, 8pm FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 24 Kolarac Anniversary, Uros Zorza Klemensoa 22, 11pm Pinokio Puppet Theatre, the & Markyz, DOT Club, Francuska 6, • Parallel Mono, Shiroko, Bad • Mravi & Auf Wiedersehen, Concert Hall, 8pm Panajotovic (violin), Ilija M. Kolarac 11pm Influence, Mint Club, Djusina 7, Bozidarac, Radoslava Grujica 3, RTS Symphony Orchestra Concert Hall, 6pm Vuk Stefanovic Karadzic Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am • Shuriken Festival Promo | Drop 11pm 8pm Conductor: Stanko Jovanovic Water Cultural Institution, the Little Sensei, CPKC, Codex, MC Kastiljas, • Slobodan Trkulja, Sava Center, • Rebel B All Night Long, 0.5, Aleksandra Jovanovic, soprano Belgrade Philharmonic Or- Theatre Dusko Radovic, Pan MONDAY NOVEMBER 20 KPTM, Zorza Klemensoa 22, 11pm Dobracina 30a, 10pm Milentija Popovica 9, 8pm Aleksa Vasic, bariton chestra • Mene, Stenik, Marko Skoric, Mint • Mapalma, Secer Club, Svetogorska • Kaliopi, Ilija M. Kolarac Theatre in Belgrade and Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Programme: G. Faure, A. Vujic Conductor: Daniel Raiskin Yinam Leef lecture, Faculty of Music Club, Djusina 7, 11pm 17, 11pm Production: RTS Music Produc- Soloist: Lukas Geniusas, piano Puls Theatre in Lazarevac. Art, Kralja Milana 50, 4:30pm BG n, 0.5, Dobracina 30a, 10pm • Charles Gayle Trio, Student • DJ Iro • Smesha electronic music, Petak tion F. Mendelssohn, F. Chopin, R. Tickets for all events can The movie “Happy End”, written and directed by Michael Haneke, is a drama about a family set in Calais Photo: Facebook/X Verleih AG Ana Markovic (piano), Cultural Center • Kokelangello & byp_, Secer Club, Club, Lomina 14, 10pm Cultural Centre, Kralja Milana 48, 8:30pm Schumann with the European refugee crisis as the backdrop. It will be screened during the Auteur Film Festival. of Belgrade, Trg Repubike 5, 9pm Svetogorska 17, 11pm • Cojke & Malina, Ludost Bar, be purchased at the Vuk Akademija 28, • The Cats are back!, Petak Club, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm • Glock Safari, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 19 Production: Belgrade Philhar- Stefanovic Karadzic Cultural Lomina 14, 10pm Nemanjina 28, 10.30pm monic TUESDAY NOVEMBER 21 • Nezni Dalibor, Elektropionir, Institution's box office www. • Miss Millie, Ludost Bar, SUNDAY NOVEMBER 19 Concert Hall, 11am Cetinjska 15, 10pm Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm Cycle: In Collaboration with SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 25 zvezdariste.rs. Gala Concert of the Faculty of • Bvana Herbalajzer & Neznani , • Otherkin, Elektropionir, Cetinjska UMUS Music, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, • DJ Lacosta & Goran Starcevic Ludaci, Zappa Barka, Usce bb, Hype, Karadjordjeva 46, 11pm 15, 10pm The most prominent young musi- Concert Hall, 11am Auteur Festival Studentski Trg 5, 8pm 10pm Albin Brunovsky Kvaka 22, Ruzveltova 39, • SeceЯ, • Deliverance with Harmonious cian in 2016 Small School of Bonton / How 9pm Retrospective WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 22 SATURDAY NOVEMBER 18 Thelonious, Drugstore, Bulevar Soloist: Uros Panajotovic, violin to listen to a Music • PARTY at Four | Dusan Kacarevic Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Production: Music Centre Host: Milos Milovanovic • Zuta Minuta, Jenny Woo CAN, LUR, & Mirko Lazarevic, KPTM, Zorza Showcases Freshest Trio Femina, Ilija M. Kolarac • Stephan Bodzin Live, Hangar, Admission free Rocher Band The Graphic Collective Gal- Kamene Kare, Bozidarac, Radoslava Klemensoa 22, 4am Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 6pm Knezopoljska 3, 11pm Production: Music Centre Grujica 3, 8pm • Blues Night // Mick Sick, 0.5, lery is running an excellent • Superpitcher, Ewoxino, GRAD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 21 Ticket fees: 200 dinars • Rain Dogs - Tom Waits tribute, Dobracina 30a, 8pm Cultural Centre, Brace Krsmanovica exhibition of the famous THURSDAY NOVEMBER 23 Akademija 28, Nemanjina 28, • Sunday Beat (techno/tech house), 4, 11pm Global Film Talent Czech illustrator, designer Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Concert Hall, 8pm MONDAY, NOVEMBER 27 10:30pm • Cherry On Top, DOT Club, and painter Albin Brunovsky Opera: Tosca (Puccini), National • Crvi, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 12am Francuska 6, 11pm Gala Concert – 80 Years Anniver- Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 10pm • PARTY at Four | 031 Republic & sary of Faculty of Music Concert Hall, 8:30pm (1935-1997). This is the 7:30pm MONDAY NOVEMBER 20 • AB RE, Ciglana, Slanacki put 26, Lukavi, KPTM, Zorza Klemensoa Symphony Orchestra Faculty of Jasna Djokic, vocal fourth time that Belgrade lectual and cultural prestige that FAF has When the Day Had No Name, and Sean International Prodigy Chamber 10pm 22, 4am Music Stanislav Binicki Artist Ensem- audiences will have the As the weather attained, explains why the festival keeps Baker's The Florida Project (US). Orchestra, Ilija M. Kolarac • Riblja Corba, Sava Center, Milentija • Free Earth Festival / Promo Popovica 9, 8pm Conductor: Bojan Sudjic ble chance to see Brunovsky's growing and increasing in popularity The festival will open with Israeli di- Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Event, KPTM, Zorza Klemensoa 22, Soloists: Roman Simovic, violin, Conductor: Pavle Medakovic cools off and the • The Residents, Dom Omladine, 11pm work – the first time was year after year. rector Samuel Maoz' Foxtrot (2017). The Makedonska 22, 9pm Stefan Milenkovic, violin, Stojan Production: Digi Media Pro- FRIDAY NOVEMBER 24 • Paper Animals i Armusi, Petak in 1984 at the same venue. Traditionally, the Auteur Film Festival military drama won the Grand Jury Prize • David Byrne, Studenstki Grad Club, Lomina 14, 8pm Krkulseki, clarinet, Tamara Ste- duction rain starts to fall, Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana fanovic, piano, Jasmina Trumbe- The exhibition opened features movies that won major festival at the 47th Venice Film Festival, as well as Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, Djindjica 179, 7pm SUNDAY NOVEMBER 26 tas, soprano, Jovan Kolundzija, WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 29 on November 13 and will run Belgraders know awards, received critical accolades or eight Ophir awards, including best director Daniel Raiskin (conductor), Lukas • Offline Act / Nemanja Stankovic, , Ilija M. Kolarac violin, Vesta Petkovic, jazz vocal until November 25. Admis- shook the world of cinema in one way or and best movie. Maoz describes the movie Geniusas (piano) Polet, Cetinjska 15, 7pm • Karaoke live, Wurst Platz Bar, Programme: Ravel, Sarsate, Concert Hall, 6pm Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm , Mr. they can find a another. The selection also commonly as "a philosophical parable trying to de- • Hot Chocolate (RnB/Hip-Hop) Makedonska 4, 8pm Veber, Verdi, Sen Sans, Konjovic, Cycle: Music Workshop sion is free. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 12am includes some of the latest and most ex- construct this vague concept called 'fate' • Sunday Beat (techno/tech house), Hristic, Eric, Obradovic Concert of Faculty of Music SATURDAY NOVEMBER 25 • Ivan Radenov, Wurst Platz Bar, warm retreat from citing movies created by Serbian authors, through a story about a father and his son". Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Production: Faculty of Music Students – Piano department Stefan Stevanovic at Makedonska 4, 8pm 12am directors and writers, as well as releases There are also two debut films on the Admission free Production: Music Centre Kvaka 22 Opera: Traviata (Verdi), National autumn at one of by not-yet-established but promising programme – Custody by Xavier Legrand Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, TUESDAY NOVEMBER 21 MONDAY NOVEMBER 27 Admission free WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 22 young filmmakers. (France), which won the Lion of the Fu- 7:30pm The independent art space, the best festivals FREE COPY • Demo Fest, Fest Club, Gradski park • Hot Chocolate (RnB/Hip-Hop), Mr. THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 30 The festival is known for its strong ture Award in Venice, and Soldiers; a SUNDAY NOVEMBER 26 Zemun, 9pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 12am Music Gallery, 6pm gallery and bar Kvaka 22 artistic statements and periods of his- Story from Ferentari by Romania-based • URBAN Salsa Party, Imago CUK, • Ivan Radenov, Wurst Platz Bar, Cycle: Encounter with an Artist Concert Hall, 8pm in the region for Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. is hosting an exhibition of torical exploration. This year, organisers Serbian author Ivana Mladenovic. Rocher Band, Kolarac Podium of Decanska 14, 10pm Makedonska 4, 8pm Femina Trio Hypercube/ Concert Season Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade • Malinada, Ludost Bar, works by Stefan Stevanovic, decided to bring back the famous spirit Of course, the festival will also show- Chamber Music, Ilija M. Kolarac Soloists: Madlen Stokic Vasilje- 2017/2018 connoisseurs of Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Karadjordjeva 44, 9pm TUESDAY NOVEMBER 28 featuring mostly portraits, of 1967-1968, which was the pinnacle of case the latest works from Serbian pro- Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am , Mr. Stefan Braun, vic, violin, MUZIKON Chamber Orchestra Editor in Chief: Gordana Igric • Dizel Night through which the art- cinema – the Au- Yugoslav cinematography. The 1960s- ductions and co-productions, namely Nemanjina 4, 12am • Jam Session, Soul Society Club, Maja Mihic, piano, Ivan Dakic, Programme: E. Grieg, A. MONDAY NOVEMBER 27 BIRN editorial team: Skver Mire Trailovic, 9pm oboe Dvorak ist explores the way the 1970s saw a period known as Black Wave Majority-Minority by Goran Markovic, Gordana Andric, Marcus Tanner, WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 22 • Malinada, Ludost Bar, Production: Music Centre Ticket fees: 800, 1,000 dinars representation of the human teur Film Festival. – an era characterised by its critical ap- Nowhere by Predrag Velinovic, Mila Tura- Stanislav Binicki Artist Ensemble, Karadjordjeva 44, 9pm Admission free figure and human soul have proach, commitment to freedom of artis- jlic's The Other Side of Everything, Marko Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, belgradeinsighteditor@birn. , Bitefartcafe, • Robert Glasper • Dizel Night, Mr. Stefan Braun, David GALIC tic expression, and dark humour. Many Novakovic's Eyes Wide Open, Biljana Studentski Trg 5, 8:30pm eu.com Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm Nemanjina 4, 12am changed with the advent Sales & Marketing: Marija • David Picouet, Kvaka 22, of digital technologies. The believe that these years were the abso- Tutorov's When Pigs Come and the latest rd TUESDAY NOVEMBER 28 Petrovic Ruzveltova 39, 9:30pm WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 29 exhibition will run from No- he 23 edition of Auteur lute zenith of the New Yugoslav Cinema's documentary by Purisa Djordjevic, I'm • Karaoke party, Petak Club, Lomina Film Festival, or FAF (as it is identity, creativity and diversity. Afraid that All Is Understood. Phone: +381 11 4030 302 14, 9pm vember 17 to 24. Opera: Don Giovanni (Mozart), • Karaoke party, Petak Club, Lomina known among serious Ser- Nine movies from the main festival pro- The main venue for the Auteur Film [email protected] • Girls are gonna get wild! (house), 14, 9pm Madlenianum Opera and Theatre, bian cinephiles), will take gramme will compete for the "Aleksandar Festival is once again Dom Omladine. Glavna 32, 7:30pm Subscription & Distribution: Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, • Girls are gonna get wild! (house), Art Behind 12am Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, place in Belgrade from No- Sasa Petrovic" award for the best film. However, films will also be shown at the Goran Knezevic Bars at KC Grad 12am TRA T T O R I A Tvember 24 - December 2. The audience Petrovic was one of the major Yugoslav Belgrade Cultural Centre and Yugoslav WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 29 THURSDAY NOVEMBER 23 +381 63 562 265 will once again have the opportunity to Black Wave figures, with two of his films Film Archive, Fontana Theatre and the THURSDAY NOVEMBER 30 PIZZER I A Anyone interested in Opera: L'elisir D'Amore (Donizetti), [email protected] enjoy a carefully-curated selection of the being nominated for Academy Awards. Studentski Grad Cultural Centre in Novi • Gramatik, BelExpo Center, Outsider Art and Art Brut National Theatre in Belgrade, Printing: POLITIKA stamparija Spanskih boraca 74a, 9pm • Marko Louis, Dom Omladine, best independent, arthouse and films Two of the entries are documentaries Beograd, as well as in the Vlada Divljan Francuska 3, 7:30pm d.o.o. • The Fogsellers, GRAD Cultural Makedonska 22, 9pm should be sure not to miss d'auteur released in the past couple of – Makalaby by French filmmaker Emma- Cultural Centre, Parobrod and the Art Cin- Concert of the Piano Department Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 10pm • Chrysta Bell (Twin Peaks), GRAD ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade the exhibition of artworks by years from across the world. The event nuel Gras and Caniba by the UK's Lucien ema of the Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment. of Faculty of Music, Ilija M. Kolarac • Rober Glasper Workshop, Bitef Cultural Centre, Brace Krsmanovica Nebojsina 8 Insight inmates of the Special Prison Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 6pm Art Cafe, Mitropolita Petra 8, 1pm 4, 9pm 011/3863-999 is an absolute must for all cinema lovers. Castaing-Taylor. Among the feature films Make sure to grab your tickets early COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 • Girls, Boys and Toys, Tranzit Bar, • RNB & Reggaeton Madness, Hospital in Belgrade, created [email protected] FAF works as a platform for films that competing will be Felicite by Alain Gomis because the most intriguing films sell out THURSDAY NOVEMBER 30 Circulation: 2,000 Brace Krsmanovica 8, 11pm Imago CUK, Decanska 14, 10pm as part of an occupational are otherwise quite inaccessible and (France), Barbara by Mathieu Amalric in just a few days. For more details about • Neutron / Knower / Schlitz, DOT • Bandwidth, DOT Club, Francuska www.restoranamici.rs work therapy programme at Club, Francuska 6, 11pm 6, 11pm that, sadly, stand a very poor chance of (France), Iranian filmmaker Mohammad the programme and screening dates and Concert of Muzikon Chamber • RNB Thursday's Delight, Brankow, • RNB Thursday's Delight, Brankow, the facility. The exhibition at being shown on the big screen in Serbia. Rasoulof's A Man of Integrity, Macedo- venues, visit the festival's official website: Orchestra, Ilija M. Kolarac Crnogorska 12, 11pm Crnogorska 12, 11pm KC Grad runs from Novem- This, combined with the degree of intel- nian director Teona Strugar-Mitevska's http://www.faf.rs/ Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm ber 20 to November 25. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 15 GOING OUT THEN AND NOW Ljubicica Bar

A hideout for the artistically- inclined, Ljubicica Bar aims to quench your thirst and spark your imagination too.

David GALIC

ecently relocated from the busy bus terminal at Zeleni Venac, Ljubicica Bar is now nestled in the heart of Dorcol, with a Rnew address at Gospodar Jovanova 33. As was the case at the old location, Lju- bicica has once again found a home in After four years under construction, Belgrade's first modern airport in Bezanija was opened with great pomp in March1927. Photo: Sas1946 The former airport ground is today part of the Photo: Wikipedia/Michael Angelkovich an old Belgrade apartment, keeping its modern business complex known as “Airport City”. intimate charm intact. Ljubicica may not be an invite-only Ljubicica is an atypical 'salon' style old Belgrade home with high ceilings and three separate rooms. Photo: Facebook/Ljubicica place, but it's certainly not a bar that people just happen upon. You have to decoration looks as if an elderly wom- your table, but the servers are very their late 20s to early 30s and artisti- dominantly chilled out and relaxed – know the exact address and ring the an used to live there and not much has polite and don't mind rambling off the cally inclined. jazz, blues, electro pop and sometimes Belgrade's First Modern bell in order to get into the building. been touched since she moved out. entire menu to you if you're not sure In this sense, Ljubicica is something even classical music. Once you enter the first-floor apart- It's a pretty big apartment – about what you want to drink. It's not as if the greater than a place to get drinks, it's a Obviously, Ljubicica Bar isn't for eve- ment, you probably won't be sure right 100 square metres – and each room drinks list is that extensive anyway. In place that aspires to inspire and encour- ryone. But if you enjoy intimate, quiet away whether you're in a bar or some- has tables and chairs, probably about terms of alcoholic beverages, however, age young Belgrade artists. There are bars that are buzzing with artistic en- Airport one's home. It's an atypical 'salon' style five or six tables to each room. As far as the house wine is homemade and very always film screenings going on, which ergy and you enjoy appreciating or old Belgrade home with high ceilings I could tell, the bar is in the kitchen, so highly recommended. The prices are are especially great when the weather creating art, it's a perfect place to have a and three separate rooms. you can't really pull up a seat next to it also pretty low. is nice, because Ljubicica has its own drink and take in the creative vibes. Srdjan GARCEVIC 1923 and 1927 and was used on the air travel, connecting Belgrade with other After World War II, the airport was re- As you move your way further into or even check out the drinks list. What As you've probably figured out by private courtyard out back. Every Ninety years route connecting Paris to Istanbul. Yugoslav and European cities. Aeroput's built and put to use once again as Yugo- the bar, the feeling that you're in some- makes matters even more frustrating is now, Ljubicica is not really a typical Bel- week's programme is filled with events ago, a marshy his year marks the 90th an- After four years of construction, Bel- first commercial flight connected Bel- slavia's main airline hub. The airport was, one's house refuses to subside, because that the bar doesn't seem to believe in grade bar. The patrons are fairly close- that include poetry readings, live music Ljubicica bar niversary of the opening of grade's first modern airport in Bezanija, grade and Zagreb, and soon there were however, slowly surrounded by the con- that's exactly how it looks – as if you've drinks menus either. knit and while they certainly won't turn performances, art exhibitions, photog- Address: Gospodar Jevremova 33 field in Bezanija the now largely forgotten was opened with great pomp in March regular routes to Vienna, Tirana, Prague, struction of New Belgrade, until in 1963 time-travelled 20 years into the past But what Ljubicica lacks in practical- anyone away, it's basically a bar full of raphy workshops and more. Contact: +381 64 9428503 Belgrade International Air- 1927, on the outskirts of a booming and Bucharest, Milan, Thessaloniki, Venice a new airport, the currently used Nikola and invited a bunch of people over to ity, it certainly makes up for in charm. regulars who call it home. The people If there's no particular event planned, www.facebook.com/gospodarjo- became the port, which was located on rapidly modernising city. Back then it and other cities. To reflect this boom, the Tesla Airport, was opened in the suburb your aunt's flat. Even the furniture and There may not be a drinks menu on who frequent the bar are usually in the music you'll hear in Ljubicica is pre- vanova33 Ta marshy plain next to the old Austro- had four runways and its concrete hang- airport was expanded with a modern ter- of Surcin, some 5 kilometres further west site of the first Hungarian village of Bezanija in what is ars were designed by Milutin Milankovic, minal building in 1931. from the city centre, and Bezanija was no now New Belgrade. a Serbian scientist famous for his contri- The good times came to an end in longer used. Gramatik at Macao Vasopressin modern airport This airport, however, was not the first butions to astronomy. April 1941, when the Nazi's first bombed After the move, most of the remnants airfield to serve the city. The first airplane The new airport's opening coincided Belgrade. Bezanija was used as a base of the airport were destroyed, and now BelExpo Centar at Drugstore to connect to fly from Belgrade took off in Banjica, five with the launch of the first Yugoslav by the Yugoslav pilots who valiantly but the only original airport building is one kilometres to the south of the city centre airline, Aeroput, whose CEO, Tadija Son- tragically defended Belgrade against a of Milanovic's hangars. The concrete ver the last few years, Gramatik has become one rugstore Belgrade has prepared yet another delicious treat Belgrade to the in 1910, close to where the VMA, the mili- dermajer, pulled a publicity stunt for the much more powerful enemy. After sus- runways were blown up to make way for of the most popular names when it comes for underground and indie clubbing enthusiasts. This week- tary hospital complex, now stands. After company shortly after the opening of the taining great damage in this first attack, the Belgrade-Zagreb highway and new to instrumental hip hop music. Not many end, the city's beloved slaughterhouse-turned-nightclub world. Banjica, there was another airfield below airport by flying all the way from Paris to it was rebuilt to serve the needs of the boulevards, while much of its former know, but the producer and DJ actually is teaming up with another former slaughterhouse and, O D the Belgrade Fortress, next to the old ham- Mumbai and back to Belgrade's new air- occupation forces, which made it a tar- site is dotted with office buildings that comes from the former Yugoslavia – he was born in according to Resident Advisor, one of the "most spectacular" mu- 1984 in Portoroz, Slovenia. As a child he discovered sic venues in Europe, the Macao from Milan. mam and yet another in Pancevo, a town port in April 1927. get for many Allied air raids. In 1944, the are part of Airport City, a development hip hop and was heavily inspired by the masters of The all-star line-up, presented by the Vasopressin record la- some 20 kilometres north-east of Bel- Belgrade International Airport grew Nazi's blew up the airport during their whose name retains the memory of Bel- the 1990s, namely the biggest producers of the hip bel, consists of Everest Magma, Psalm 7:5, Deceitful Barren, Vi- grade, which was in operation between steadily with the development of air retreat from Belgrade. grade's first real airport. hop golden era, such as DJ Premier, RZA and Dr Dre. sio and Lifecutter. But that's not all –the special guest will be Gramatik eventually started making his own beats famed Scottish musician Drew McDowall. Fans of industrial, on the computer at age 13 and was quickly signed by a post-punk, experimental and electronic noise music don't need US agent, after which he decided to move to New York City a special introduction to this former member of the cult band Coil and release his first albumExpedition 44 in 2008. Gramatik and regular contributor to other major names of the genre such as will play the BelExpo Centar on Thursday, November 23 and tick- Psychic TV, CSD and Compound Eye. The event will take place on Satur- ets, which cost €15, can be bought at Eventim locations. day, November 18 and tickets cost eight euros at the door.

Published by

A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO NEWS AND ANALYSIS OUR PREMIUM CONTENT Marko Louis to Promote New Album IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE Ritam Nereda Celebrate Paul Kalkbrenner at Hangar Norwegian Avant for in-depth analysis, 30th Anniversary Singer, songwriter, producer, percussionist Rockers Coming to Zemun investigative reports, One of the best venues for large-scale and pianist Marko Louis, formerly of the St. features, interviews, One of the most consistently popular electronic music acts, Hangar at the Bel- Louis Band and Maraqya, has just finished Irish band Otherkin Playing in Serbia for the third time, commentary and profiles Serbian metal/hardcore bands of the last grade Port is hosting Paul Kalkbrenner, his second studio album. The son of late Play Elektropionir progressive, dark avant garde rockers on the latest business and decades has definitely been Ritam Nere- the internationally acclaimed producer Serbian folk/ethno singer known as "Lou- from Norway, Vulture Industries, will be political headlines. da. On Saturday, November 25, the band from Berlin who has seven albums is", Marko will be kicking off his regional Having released their debut album less promoting their latest album Stranger will be celebrating its 30th anniversary under his belt and a huge fan base. To tour of the Balkans with a performance at than a month ago, loud Irish "grunge Times. Known for their theatrical, almost with a concert at the Amerikana Hall at support this legendary DJ, the talented Dom Omladine on Thursday, November pop" stars-in-the-making Otherkin are al- cabaret-like approach to live shows, it's Dom Omladine. Special guests include Japanese artist DJ Hito will also be join- 30, featuring special guests and collabora- ready on the road promoting the album, not one to be missed. They play Club OTHER SERVICES: bands that were influenced by Ritam ing the party on Friday, November 24, tors. Tickets are available at a promotional which is called OK. They will be playing Fest inn Zemun on Monday, November Nereda, including Spunk and Putrid along with local acts – Marko Milosavlje- price of four euros now at the Dom Om- in Belgrade at Elektropionir on Sunday, 20 and the support act is Romanian prog Blood from Vojvodina and Flatline from vic and Nic Lawyer. Tickets cost €15 at ladine box office but will be probably cost November 19 and tickets cost just euros rockers Hteththemeth. Tickets cost €15 Bosnia. Tickets cost €12 at the door. the door or €27 for VIP tickets. about eight euros at the door. at the door. at the door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 17 - Thursday, November 30, 2017 ADVERT Map of City Centre

Find your copy of Belgrade Insight here:

BALKAN INVESTIGATIVE REPORTING NETWORK

Kolarceva 7 11000 Beograd Serbia

TEL AVIV HUMMUS HOUSE - ISRAELI The Best National & International Cuisine in CUISINE RESTAURANT the Heart of Belgrade Working hours: 00-24 Skadarska 34 Food delivery: 09-21 11000 Belgrade Carice Milice 3, 069/2632 224 Serbia Kicevska 21, 064/58 63 821 Tel. +381 63 1872222 FB:facebook.com/Tel Aviv Hummus House Email. [email protected] telavivhummushouse.com www.malivrabac.rs