Expert Adviser’s report for export licence application ref: Breguet tourbillon watch
Introduction A tourbillon watch is designed to keep good time with a mechanism that stabilizes and protects the movement from being disturbed by the daily forces in use. This four-minute example, watch No. 1297 made c. 1808, is the work of the pre-eminent Paris watchmaker, Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747- 1823). It combines various aspects of Breguet’s excellence to a superlative degree revealing how the quality of his work achieved the highest patronage, his pioneering gift to make the mechanical aesthetic and his dedication to the pursuit of technical perfection. Indeed, as discussed below, it is considered that this watch meets the Waverley criteria. Made for King George III, the watch embodies the interests and aspirations of British Enlightenment being the pinnacle of watch design and incorporating an early example of state-of-the-art horological technology alongside a unique group of innovative features.
This important type of watch, the Breguet four-minute tourbillon, is not currently represented in any national collection and, with fewer than ten thought to survive, it is possible that there may not be any further examples in the country. If a watch of such importance, in such pristine condition, were to leave the country then it would be a great loss to the nation.
Background
Breguet Born in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, in 1747, Abraham-Louis Breguet set up in business at Quai de l’Horloge on Ile de la Cité in Paris in 1775. He was soon achieving excellence, bringing to the market his perpétuelle watch in 1780 and serving the highest status clients.i He went on to develop more horological innovations, some of which, like the automatic, are still important today. These include:
• in 1790, the pare-chute which was a means of shock-proofing; • in 1795, the overcoil which optimizes the isochronism of the balance spring; • in 1795, the sympathique, a clock that could receive a watch and then wind, set and regulate it; • in 1796, the souscription watch sold by a then innovative subscription scheme, enabling Breguet to fund the reestablishment of his business after the destruction of the Revolution; • in 1798, the constant force escapement which optimizes the critical supply of energy to watch.ii
These innovations show Breguet’s unparalleled contribution to horology both as a technical innovator and as an astute business man keen to make the most of the wealth and developing consumerism of the eighteenth century.
The tourbillon was possibly Breguet’s single greatest contribution to the field. He conceived the idea whilst in Switzerland between 1793-1795, in exile from the Reign of Terror in Paris. It was patented on June 26, 1801 and was finally put into commercial production in 1805.iii The escapement, the beating-heart of a watch responsible for controlling its timekeeping, is subject to varying forces as it moves about in normal use, which can adversely affect timekeeping. Breguet sought to reduce these positional errors by incorporating the tourbillon which caused the entire escapement assembly to rotate continuously through 360°, the word “tourbillon” translating as “whirlwind”.iv In practice, having more moving parts than a standard escapement, it was prone to further errors and was also more heavily reliant on maintenance.v However, despite the practicality of the tourbillon being questionable, this did not hinder that perennial desire for the latest and greatest thing. Indeed, Breguet excelled at knowing what his customers wanted and watches fitted with tourbillons were highly prized and remain so still. Breguet sold 35 tourbillon watches between 1805 and 1823 and less than ten are now thought to survive,vi vii thus making them rare and coveted pieces.
Consideration of Breguet No. 1297 with respect to the Waverley criteria
1. Is it so closely connected with our history (including local history) and national life that its departure would be a misfortune?
King George III & Queen Charlotte shared many interests which resulted "in a significant expansion of the Royal collection" during their long reign (1760-1820).viii The pages of chapter 10 of Roberts’s book, Time-keeping and science,ix illustrate the wonderful diversity of timepieces that were acquired or utilized by them. Some are notable for their technical intricacies, some for their decoration and many for both.
The King was a keen horologist and engaged the leading horologists of the day, actively involving himself in the creation of pieces that he commissioned.x He "was fascinated by complexities of clock and watch movements and spent many hours taking them to pieces and putting them together again."xi The Royal Collection holds manuscripts written in the King’s hand in which he details the procedure for assembling and disassembling watches.xii
The King "preferred simplicity to excess, inclined more towards asceticism than preciousness"xiii and he "was not the sort of collector for whom money was no object"xiv, he simply would not have acquired the watch in question had it not met with his “exacting standards”.xv These traits that distinguished George III are manifest this watch: the austere beauty of the Breguet style and the state of the art in horological innovation.xvi xvii It seems very likely that the King would have prized this watch for its quality and innovation and not just as a trinket.
The watch is also of interest in respect of international scientific activity during the period of the Napoleonic Wars, as well as being indicative of Breguet business and diplomatic acumen. This is revealed by the intriguing mystery on the watch case. The copy of the certificate No. 4178 that was issued by Breguet for the watch states that the movement was “fini en blanc” xviii (finished in the rough) when it was sent to Recordon of London on 21 June 1808 (for the King of England) who had it cased. However, the case bears two casemakers marks, “PBT” for Pierre-Benjamin Tavernier who worked for Breguet in Paris, and “LC” for Louis Comtesse who was based in London, as well as having gold hallmarks for London. xix xx This suggests a prolonged and convoluted gestation for the watch that Roger Smith considers indicative of Breguet being astute enough to present his product as English to make it acceptable to the King of England during the Napoleonic Wars.xxi xxii 2. Is it of outstanding aesthetic importance?
The watch, especially the dial, is beautifully produced and presented in the highest quality materials. It is a first class example of the art of Breguet and aesthetically pleasing but its major importance falls within criteria 2 and 3.
It must also be remarked that the watch appears to be in pristine condition for its age.
3. Is it of outstanding significance for the study of some particular branch of art, learning or history?
The watch is hugely important as a horological material source.
Simply as a four-minute tourbillon it is rare, i.e. being one of possibly ten survivors (of 35 originally made). Furthermore, it has been argued that, of the ten, it may be the earliest, based on the fact that it is the only one with the Robin escapementxxiii and Breguet subsequently used his own echappement naturel on these watches.xxiv
The dial is carefully and attractively presented, as well as technically brilliant. The subsidiary seconds dials for “COMMON SECONDS” and “SECONDS FOR OBSERVATION”xxv are logically arranged symmetrically. These have been accommodated by making the chapter ring for the hours small, which also serves to fill the central area portion of the dial (this facilitated with an unusually short hour hand). The end of the minute hand falls exactly on pip indices, which accommodate the largest possible circumference on the dial, thus allowing the fractions of a minute to be read easily.
A thermometer is neatly accommodated between the seconds dials, with its hand perfectly pivoted in the pip for the 60th minute – a marvellous display of holistic design and attention to detail that only a true master could conceive and execute.
Finally, a state-of-wind indication inscribed “MAIN SPRING” is provide at the bottom of the dial. This feature helps to remind the user to keep the watch wound so that is does not stop – this is particularly important in a watch that is marketed for its timekeeping abilities.
The dials are set to a background of contrasting patterns in the finest guilloché, giving a wonderful depth and prominence to the various complications.
Within the thermometer is an oval cartouche bearing the inscription “WHIRLING ABOUT REGULATOR”, a charming translation of “tourbillon”. The presence of thermometer and the use of English seem to be unique amongst the surviving four-minute tourbillons. xxvi
The inclusion of both the thermometer and stopping seconds also marks this watch out above the other four-minute tourbillons that this author has seen.xxvii xxviii Of the others, both No. 1176 and 1188 lack the thermometerxxix xxx and No. 2555 also lacks the stop-seconds and state of wind indication.xxxi The thermometer is of particular significance as Breguet was also deeply committed to the development of thermometry.xxxii
Conclusion Overall, the watch has direct connections to British history and individuals, as well as being a significant product of British eighteenth century interests in technical innovation, trade, and consumerism. Its rarity makes it a great prize for a collector anywhere in the world but in a British public collection it relates particularly to the science and understanding of horology, time and measuring , as well as more broadly to the social and political history of Britain and Europe. Its loss from Britain would be a misfortune.
Endnotes i The perpétuelle was the first reliable self-winding (automatic) watch - the first buyer of which was the Duc d’Orléans. ii Emmanuel Breguet, Breguet, Clockmakers since 1775 (Paris: Swan éditeur, 2016), p. 422. iii Breguet, p. 422. iv In the case of the watch in question, taking four minutes to do so. v Although it might be noted that “Breguet was not concerned with the expense of difficult work” (George Daniels, The Art of Breguet (London: Sotheby Parke Bernet, 1975), p. 328.) vi Breguet, p. 411. vii ‘The Naked Watchmaker’, The Naked Watchmaker
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