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REVOLUTION H 172 titans Heritage of W AT Heritage WATCH Leaders ofthenew horological GoldenAge CHmaking Photography text © V RE H suzanne wong LUE 32TION ASI A ISSU Munster

REVOLUTION H 173 REVOLUTION H 174 contemporary vocabulary. But what no one could the into reintroduced were complications known where period a represented ’90s and ’80s the complications many the rediscover that had to been abandoned. was doing As about such, set Schnyder,FranckBlümlein MullerGünter and Rolf Biver, Jean-Claude Stern, Philippe Hayek, G. Nicolas like watchmaking mechanical of QuartztheCrisis. Whatthoseearly proponents during abandoned rapidly been had that industry of handful a visionary when entrepreneurs ago, set about resurrecting several an but ago, several notwatchmaking began long dead and buried by now. be would thought everyone ago, 40 just that manyways, is the remarkable evolution of acraft in which, one and invention, horological for so happens that we are now in the Golden opentheir eyes and pay attention. Because it just , I would tell them to set aside their despair and wrong the in living at distraught are who of students those to But patented. was ’s when 19th the of beginning the functionalmarine chronometer, the H4, through coinciding Harrison’s with first the creation of for highwatchmaking. but one, not been fact, in have, there that posit would I — ago centuries two over well being into came complications horological all for vocabulary basic the all, after — belief this to veracity certain a is there while And Harrison. of Abraham-Louis level the Breguet, on Antide geniuses Janvier orJohn forth bring will the that unlikelihood the about disappointment came and went 200 years ago, and their immense watchmaking mechanical of era golden the how Horological historians always griping are about n ay as te tr o modern of story the ways, many In century,18th the of end the at first was The fore Goldentwo Ages Heritage w WATCH the watchindustryhaseverwitnessed.H significant horological works of journalism that most the of one be to feel I what result is The them. to means advancement of the to bring about this renewed Golden Age and what world to understand watch how theeach of inthem mindshas technical helped Navas) Michel FabriqueLaof Temps,du Enrico Barbasini and partnershipfounderstheoccupieda was —by 10(or rather 11, because one of the positions mission to travel to to speak to the top the accepted Wong, Suzanne editor-in-chief, next evolutionary step. eachtried to push have the craft that of watchmaking minds to its technical driven, relentlessly creative brilliant,fantastically of group a by possible made been has advancement collective advancement since the 18th century. fruitful a such witnessed before never industry watch has the Collectively,purely-backward-looking arena. differential, a via linked double complications as seen such like never-before- newmaterials to silicon, and artificial from everything of influx massive a with shift, seismic a witnessed we’ve , a than less changed. In horology had of face the , third the by timepieces for compelling technically clients and emotive of increasingly hunger the and luxury genres intheworld. luxury salient commercially most the of one into métier anachronistic arguably dusty, a which turned horology, mechanical for appreciation global of swell enormous the was predicted have fw ots g, REVH ago, few A this that understand to important also is it But of success commercial the by Propelled

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predevelopment thinktankheestablishedlastyear. and research the through innovation for reference industry Schaffhausenmanufacturean the make to plans and savoir-faire technical IWC’s of growth strategic the winding for responsible now is Ihnen quadruple-pawl system. IWC high-efficiency patented worked the on MojonJean-François also with closely Ihnen today. collection of feature IWC core every a are descendants its and 89361 caliber The else. all above prized are and engineering functionality where IWC, at surpassed been of not have robustness and dual-clutch this reliability the , this Until . chronograph the for coupling lateral and , and chronograph the for coupling integrated column-wheel chronograph with friction toIWC has been the in-house caliber 89361, afully construction,Ihnen’ssignificant contribution most movement of terms In 2010. in development and took on the position of associate director of research became head of movement development in 2006 2002, and in 29 of age the at IWC joined Ihnen Stefan noain n tcnlg. oe r even are Some . and innovation materials , of fields the in teams their toward successive breakthroughs leading are inventiveness yes, of and, conviction individuals talent, exceptional , to to Neuchâtel the to Joux Valléede from Switzerland, of workshops happened, but before its very existence. it’sbefore just not something,predict to able be to invention of nature entire the contravene Associate director, R&D stefan n h movement-development the In it, sits on his desk as a Ihnen’s ’s though he rarely uses screwdriver carousel, tune — they say this as if it wouldn’t it if as this say they — tune us to do now is improve, refine, fine- for left thing only The watchmaking. about it say they particular in things, but many about that say They hey say everything has been invented. reminder of his early years atthebench ihnen

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REVOLUTION H 175 REVOLUTION H 176 technical orinstructive that it should probably not be taken as being particularly painting was made by a watchmaking student in 1915 and balance is designed to handle, she observed that the the self-compensation that the bimetallic painting, which does not feature split arms to allow for asked about the nature of the in the Wat Titans chMaking of of currently hangs above her desk. When with bimetallic balance wheel, and it in painting at the F orestier-Kasapi picked up this N euchâtel, depicting a tourbillon S imonin bookshop Director, finewatchmaking kasapi forestier- c lo rae tuy usadn wrs of works outstanding truly created has Forestier-Kasapialso joy. of tears shed she which in emotion extreme of one as hand her in watch completed the held first she which in personal the de describes she Rotonde — Astrorégulateur Her the is watch favourite horology’s problems. of some fundamental address that watches concept of project ID ambitious staggeringly inthe seen is of which example high-profile legitimacy,and prowess watchmaking most the in exponentially grown has maison luxury the 1999, in Cartier at period started she Since a . of for watchmaker head the as for company worked she when Forestier-Kasapi from originated Freak Nardin Ulysse the for idea the that and well-known is it and innovation, insight extraordinary by been characterized has career Her well. as path this down go to her for progression natural a was it says she and life of way this in immersed all were brothers her and father her — of Carole Forestier-Kasapi was born into a family oooy uh s h Crir Astrotourbillon Cartier the as such horology and the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Cartier de Rotonde the and Flying Tourbillon. arole Cartier

savoir-faire. Consider this achievement in in achievement this Consider savoir-faire. ofwatchmaking evolutions extant finest the are Forestier-Kasapi, Carole by guided as — systems inefficiencies transmission geared in energy inherent the and age-old for lubrication need to the — noires bêtes watchmaking they solutions The already. hundred a said hasn’t been already that department watchmaking fine Cartier’s of watches concept ID the about pride, “is completelynew.” some with Golay Jean-Pierre inventor its says rotation every five seconds.“The ,” full one makes it that so organ regulating the of rotation the up speeding and pallets anchor the reconfiguring tourbillon, the of periphery the at it fixing wheel, escape the of teeth the what it means to build a tourbillon, by inverting Thunderbolt has initiated a complete rethink of in theirfour-oscillatorExcaliburQuatuor. pushed the limits of experimental have they how world the show to preparing is Roger Manufacture Dubuis, under the direction at of Gregory Bruttin, team development Horlogers LaFabrique du Temps. and Michel Navas of Louis Vuitton Les Ateliers Barbasini Enrico — men two by led are They modern standards of precision manufacturing. by free set naturel,Breguet’sechappement of of barreling toward a perfected version suburbs semi-industrial the are in watchmakers there Today, death. his after tourbillon successful first its delivered only workshop his the tourbillon, but less often is it discussed how of Breguet’sinvention about speak continually more the limitations of 18th-century technology! We much by constrained designs how his see to frustrating the And of arts? advancement horological his to witness aristocratic) actually probably rich, educated, appropriatedemographicEuropean,(western the into born be would you that odds the are what Breguet, Abraham-Louis of time the in watch world. Even if you could choose to be alive the of part a be to time exciting more better, a as weknowit. re-engineering the very basics of watchmaking There is very little that can be said said be can that little very is There Rapide Tourbillon the , In young the Meyrin, in also Nearby, been never has there that is it of truth The perpetual , calendars, analog perpetual like people Also, customer. the for easy it make wearable, it Make push-buttons. hidden no , the set by is Everything Klaus. Kurt by perpetual the easy, like — simple things robust, make “To Ihnen. line,”says Men’ for ‘Engineered the IWC, at philosophy this like “I really economy. mechanical engineer’s an with skill-set watchmaking the combines that one design, movement to approach two-pronged a incorporate Stefan to wants Ihnen director associate department, research development IWC and the In well. view as of point traditional, watchmaking the purely from away move to be pioneers.” that’sto ; decided new we in why invested we why That’s up. catch cannot and you others the after running be always will you generations, for done has Nivarox what doing by independent technologically be want to you If generations. two within things do to way normal the be will hairsprings and decision to recognize that silicon the on based was it together, Sigatec found to decided and Mimotec] of CEO [Lorenz, Pierre Gygax, we “When firstmet with Hubert director industrial Says off. paid that well-placed gamble a on based largely is there use its and Nardin, Ulysse at development any of watch industry, the use of silicon, is a key part of the innovations material significant most the of one — product of area the to restricted and the team.” not organization the have also but we products, the now, only and page, blank a started with We movements. regarding Cartier at anything wasn’t “there Forestier-Kasapi, mere decade before. “Eight years ago,” recalls a prowess watchmaking Cartier’s of context In terms of mentality, things are starting starting are mentality,things of terms In innovation of flurry this is Neither Heritage WATCH wear the watch, how he will will he how watch, the wear point of view and how he is going to further than that, to look at it from the client’s what I have created. And you have to think even build to going is who one the is he because — mind in watchmaker the have I now, screen the of front in am I whenever why is This constructor. the with have sometimes can watchmakers that frustrations the of lot a understand I why is which watchmaker, a be to used “I : at designer movement somethingpreoccupiesthatis Vincent Beccia, mind of frame watchmaking the to approach horlogerie, butinafunctionalway.” haute do we Yes, essence. the at engineering is this me,customer. Forthe for easier things say, ‘Here, take can the digital one.’ we It’s up to us to calendar, make our of readability the criticizes someone If -. digital the have also we but calendars, perpetual analog have we IWC At read. to difficult and small so is everything and hands, many so are there but The gradual integration of an engineering engineering an of integration gradual The Astrorégulateur Cartier de Rotonde The © V RE H LUE 32TION ASI A ISSU

REVOLUTION H 177 REVOLUTION H 178 Wat Titans chMaking of of t pae f silto. h ls o patents of list The oscillation. of phase its during provides balance the to perturbation that minimal escapement single- detent high-precision, impulse the on escapement modeled isometer ellipse implementation patented a the of includes Triptyque à chiming Candaux. His work on the Hybris Mechanica from Jaeger-LeCoultre originated that innovations are a watch, exceptional the of to clarity contribute all , which trebuchet the and profiles gong Features Sonnerie. such as the patented gongs, the square Grande à Hybris Mechanica monumental the and — collection the topendofJaeger-LeCoultre’s movement Master at day, this to used, the still — Repeater Minute creating watches, specialized chiming Candaux in Maison, at Grande years La 17 his at During trainee student Jaeger-LeCoultre. watchmaking a as 14 of age the at career his began Candaux David Owner c david registered in his name at the European Patent independent atelier in the Vallée de Joux. de Vallée the in atelier independent own his established and Jaeger-LeCoultre Office is staggering. In 2011, Candaux left Candaux 2011, In staggering. is Office whom music-box specialists T the consulting session, he Minute Repeater. Attheendof for the Jaeger-Le when researching vibro-acoustics and respect as atoken ofadmiration instead, wanted to buy the instrument, but and Most recently, he worked on the chiming the on worked recently,he Most his is an instrument from for Badollet.Candauxis33yearsold. movement Ivresse beautiful the intensely scratch, from created, also He Agenhor. mechanism for the Van Cleef & Arpels Arpels & Cleef Van the for mechanism ih enMr Weerct of Wiederrecht Jean-Marc with conjuction in timepieces Wish Poetic C aux andaux approached R

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white blank, because of the snow.the of because blank, white were we And the a in was everything window, the both Outside atelier. were we “So recalls. Candaux work,” and in come to wanted “He day. atelier that the in be to going was he if fils, ask to up Candaux, David David rang winter, père, last Candaux, morning Sunday One LITTLE they’re you —ourleadersarehere,thetimeisnow. when people tell to come We’ve recognize era. a golden a experiencing for collectively rare to it’s but perspective, in distance of lack the with do to it’sPerhaps plant the seeds of revolution for future harvest. who those watchmaking, Swiss of heart the at industry mindset. It all comes down to the ones the in change sea monumental a of beginnings horological world has unprecedentednever before seen, and the an the which of likes the innovation, is of flowering seeing we’re What developments. new out throwing and is growing industry the fast how with proportionally increases analyze and contextualize assess, to back step a taking of importance The trend. world premiere, you can lose sight of the larger one new thing to the next. World premiere after about thataspect.” protected from bad use, so no one has to worry watch. Design the watch so that it is robust and looking up what is on page and manual the to back going be always and watch, complicated a for money that all pay to someone expect can’t You it. manipulating be “I have thesethree you must have the It’s all too easy to get caught up in following following in up caught get to easy It’stoo all eye, thehand and Blümlein; hesaid values that came from Mr [Günter] the heart. haut-de-gamme horlogerie” — DavidCandaux SHOP OF W 26 in order to set his T his is ONDERS

creations thatare hisandalone. life, Candaux is able to express these beliefs in in his time first the horlogerie.”For gamme haut-de- is This heart. the and hand the eye, the have must you said he Mr Blümlein; [Günter] from came that values three these have be.I can that emotional how time, first the for chiming it hear you when heart, your like and emotions — when you see a watch beating respect passion, as Valuessuch everything. to values and roots gives that and details, deeper the wider picture in mind, but now I have all the which is watchmaking, something very fine. I have always had of cradle the Joux, de Vallée the in born was “I move. this with maturity to his career and philosophical trajectory coming sees he development, of terms end, In production. the to beginning managing everything from the initial design to final from watch create a to able being of dream, lifelong a of drive meforwards.” what are they engine, my are moments these and me, for moment magical a was It winter. the during work only would watchmakers the , the in because — Joux de Vallée the in watchmakers old the of stories the books, the in like was It bench. the on working together, For Candaux, his atelier is the attainment the is atelier his Candaux, For Heritage WATCH Grande Sonnerie Grande à Mechanica Hybris Jaeger-LeCoultre The ern i aot 1-iue ak n fine in walk 10-minute a about in is Grand-Puits Meyrin, de Chemin on Temps, du most importantwatchIevermade.” with Wiederrecht, the probably “It’s exaggeration: no absolutely Says time. transcend timepiece a makes what of essence the dilute to nothing hierarchy, strict in through work to scaffolding corporate no is there when atelier, of what can be accomplished in an independent project. Iwanttomakethiswatchalone.’” Opus WinstonHarry a like be to it want I it. But do can we how is here and it do can ‘We said, I and2013]January of executiveaschief incumbent CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier Quercize, [de Stanislas to went I back, came I when ; two in there plans the all did and Crete in holiday on was I zero. from Agenhor, pride. “The first movement made completely by justifiable with Wiederrecht, says years,” 30 that I know and everything everything I learned in the past is Wish Poetic “The experience. watchmaking his of decades three last the and creativity ingenuity, man’s one of distillation the is — vitrine their before obeisance make and come would who hordes suited sharply the attracting shrine, of sort a into Horlogerie Haute la de International Salon 2012 the at boothArpels Van& theCleefturned which — mechanical beauty. The Poetic Wish timepieces Jean-Marc Wiederrecht creates objects of vast its purity, is a familiar theme at Agenhor, where all in vision his realize to own, his on out strike the indescribable? describe you do How continue. to words the for searching if as pauses, watch…”Candaux completed the saw and Ivresse the up cased I time first The well. as intense more much so is pleasure “The side. flip a is theresituation, serious.”more suchevery in course,as of But, much are consequences the fail, we If us. with it inthey’re too,friends our and — line the on reasons Candaux. “Here, everything we have is it,”with unhappy was Lambert Jérôme if been have would Mechanica Hybris the on was working I when happened have could that thing worst the “Probably proportions. frightening independent atelier is that the ante can swell to h cret rmss f a Fabrique La of premises current The The Poetic Wish is perhaps the best example to Candaux drove that passion of kind The an up setting of drawback one the Perhaps © V RE H LUE 32TION ASI A ISSU

REVOLUTION H 179 REVOLUTION H 180 © by characterized is that one is partnership their that when clear it’s table, a across talking just even action, in Navas and observing Barbasini Upon independent watchmaking. innovative in forward way small, the lead to companies having of necessity absolute the of convinced utterly being without conversation the in rapid fire, and it’s difficult to come away from other each around and over talk they — Barbasini Enrico the and Navas Michel of to hearts close very clearly is that subject a industry is watch the in ateliers of independent role the There, Agenhor. from weather V RE almost every day. need an operation on his hand Barbasini still plays every day Wat doctor told him that he might because of overstrain caused life, went full-tiltatit,playing with all other interests in his H LUE 32TION ASI A ISSU Barbasini picked up golf a ago, and like he does Titans chMaking by hisincessant golfing. of of R when hecan ecently, his to “start withdessert”. likes and passion full-on with everything does he admission own his by since practice, to struggles him patience in watchmaking teaching — something he still with Philippe Berney Max Patek watchmaker master former credits He solutions. unique to lead that perspectives unexpected can lend upbringings differing vastly their wherein Navas, Michel colleague with interactions his in especially career, his throughout boon a being as background non-watchmaking friend. his describes thin Barbasini Golay. father’s Pierre-Michel was his man That of footsteps the in follow to decided he how explaining recounts, thin,” the and sporty very Barbasini was watchmaker but fat, all were in chefs one “The only watchmaking. and industry culinary whom the of in most were friends, of coterie close a had father His take. to wanted he path career what into watchmaking started when he journey was a boy, deciding His Caruso. Enrico tenor of Italian legendary family for named was a he and into singers opera born was Barbasini Enrico Movement technicaldirector barsini enrico

La F Vuitton Les Horlogers du Temps A teliers L abrique ouis then we’d bebacktothe1970s. shakenup,otherwise they’d allfallasleep! And sit be to advance. needs not industry and The back would companies big the watchmakers, independent Without Barbasini: Enrico when goal. common a on focused accomplish can — excerpt following the in reproduced — exuberance interactive this what of sense a have to Tempscreates du Fabrique La that products spectacular the at look only need One processes. thought and personalities energetic) significantly (already other’s each of amplification dynamic their

Enrico Barbasini life since — though not always on used it almost every day of his was a young boy of 10, and he has watchmaker’s hammerwhenhe N avas’ father gave him this small they wouldn’t do anything about then but ideas, the for money us give they’d And Barbasini!” Mr idea, Good Navas! Mr idea, “Good say they’d ideas, these aboutpeopletold we whenAnd ideas. of lot a get would I and Enrico before, with worked we companiesthe of some At MN: It’s agoodthing. brands.biggerthe compared to and really push development, as faster go can we and structures, EB: It’s because we have smaller with thesmallercompanies. tourbillonseverywhere!Itstarts multi-axis the all at look now, and — tourbillon double-axis with , we did their Michel them. After a while, we got fed up of this. Wethis. of up fed got we while, a After them. want to realize our ideas! want torealizeourideas! h ms ectn tm o any of time exciting most The EB: project is when you first have the idea idea the have first you when is project of it, probably before you even get to to get even you before probably it, of work on it. You can’t wait to get to the the to get to Youcan’tit. wait on work Navas: construction stages. We want to go fast, because because fast, go to want We MN: Heritage when you have an idea — when youhaveanidea— We want to go fast all all fast go to want We EB: WATCH When we were the time! three oftheminhishome. has and movements -tower old for passion a has He Speake-Marin. Peter styled and Corum classically wristwatches), their for movements (creating beautiful Ferrier the Laurent 2011), that in atelier it the acquired of they work the with impressed so were (who Vuitton Louis for work done has he Temps, Fabrique du La At Genta. Gérald and Philippe Patek at watchmaker high-complications a and Muller, Franck at specialist prototyping and development movement a Concept, BNB colleague at “N” the longtime was he with Barbasini, Enrico Temps du Fabrique La setting up Before watches. repairing together sit would father his and he evenings, the in television watching of instead where one being as childhood his describes Michel Navas was born into a watchmaking family — he Atelier director michel I mean, tradition is great, but when you you when but great, don’t progress… is tourbillon?” tradition the mean, with I still guys “You EB: creativity? What haveyouinvented?” your stopping What’s wheel? balance the on working still You done? you have “What us, Enrico, if Breguet woke up today, he’d be asking tell always I works! it if know to want you and MN: — you feel as if you’re inventing the wheel n av s Tambour Minute Repeater Minute Tambour Vuitton Louis The La F Vuitton Les Horlogers du Temps A teliers L abrique ouis

REVOLUTION H 181 REVOLUTION H 182 not may or may Deschanel acclaim. before unanimous APRP at teeth near- by characterized careers with continuing their cut all Marin Speake- Peter and AndreasHaas de Strehler,Anthonie Forsey, Stephen Greubel, Robert Forestier-Kasapi, Carole people”: “these by to workwellinothercompaniesafterwardtoo.” who makes it all work. I think these people go on demanding. But I like to think that I am the guide quite be can it and characters strong such have people,”such Deschanel.“Theywithexplains team a in work to difficult be sometimes can it passionatesuchpeople,withalthough work to and talents releasing horological theminto the industry. “We arelucky true grooming for — the company the — record track ever-brightening technical its leadership, Papi’s Giulio atmosphere, driven yet collaborative its people, young hiring of practice APRP’s — reasons of number a For industry’smost fecund watchmaking hothouse. the creating in role his is obliquely) very once, at accomplishments names Deschanel horological modern of triumph a was timepieces, his of number a in with Robin experimented Breguet the that escapement of version robust and compact more a escapement, Piguet Audemars The it. by — furthered even — enabled doubtlessly is further” even limits the push to confidence the them giving while ahead challenges the of “conscious team his making of aim stated Fabrice APRP,and for minus no Piguet almost with Audemars plus all much as pretty is it behind such company a of resources vast the Having . and Mille Richard as such clients external for is rest the that work the half About APRP. at over folks the are circumstances similar in others only the possibly Quite independent. an of portfolio client diverse and operations the maintaining while conglomerate) luxury global a of part company such as Louis Vuitton (which is itself position APRP. A short rundown of who he might mean mean might he who of rundown short A What he modestly doesn’t refer to (except (except to refer doesn’t modestly he What unique a in is Temps du Fabrique La have been actively in the running for the the for running the in actively been have PP o s o Admr Pge, and Piguet, Audemars for is do APRP within the industry, being part of a big

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His use. of ease and wear of ease assembly, philosophy involves bridging the different levels different the bridging involves philosophy has co-created the one-minute flying karrusel, flying one-minute the co-created has of disconnect between constructor, watchmaker constructor, between disconnect of csa cmet y lnpi CO Marc CEO Blancpain by comment casual a and end customer — which all too often results often too all which — customer end and siltn Wih fo ntig oe than more nothing from Weight Oscillating eurcig mc-aind n neglected and much-maligned a resurrecting n mrcia tmpee wt unacceptably with timepieces impractical in ae oe-eev Idcto o the on Indication Power-Reserve Date short serviceintervals. n h 21 LEouin oriln Large Tourbillon L-Evolution 2011 the on one pwrrsre niain seen indication power-reserve mounted and “karrusel”. 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with those who’ve successfully weathered the the weathered successfully who’ve those with conversation every almost in up comes notice the core essentials of horology, a belief that you with speaks conviction about the company’s Deschanel commitment to Fabrice wiser. — APRP, hoped At be to is it — and stronger leaner,industry the left decade last of end the rarely are outcome coincident, althoughit’s nicewhentheyare. and Intent point. beside the rather is roles these assume actively they not or Whether keepers. industry’s the being of responsibilities the on take and ahead far see who us among those exist still There watchmaking. Swiss of narrative ongoing the relating stop to place arbitrary an merely all, after is, which ending, particular this beyond ending. Like all the best stories, it carries on far an industry. Swiss watch industry first started behaving like vindicating itsnewindustrialistdirectives. as well as watchmaking Swiss of quality the confirmed and instruments timekeeping best re-energized Swiss contingent brought only its World’s a Chicago which Fair,the in as known also Exposition, Columbian World’s 1893 the was second The watchmaking. Swiss of interests the safeguard to response first a as establishedwas beginnings) its owes Industry the modern-day Federation of the Swiss Watch Société The be. Intercantonale des to Industries du Jura shown (to which been had it relic outmoded the like attic the into bundled was soon antipathy That modernization. viewed Swiss the which with antipathy same the by burdenedbeennot seemed, hadAmericans, it The delegation. Helvetian the on lost not was — timepieces high-performing inexpensive, far to producing in counterparts Swiss ability their outstrip companies’ watch their of — might industrial States’ United the of display This Philadelphia. in Exhibition International into industry The watch reform. Swiss the shook that century,occurredevents19thtwo the when of developed world. the of rest the over sweeping mechanization of wave the against bulwark a formed livelihoods The economic winnowing that took place at at place took that winnowing economic The Like all good stories, this is one with a happy the when is century 19th the of end The decades three last the in changed this All first was the 1876 Centennial Centennial 1876 the was first Associate director, movementdevelopment gregory that is seen in the final watch — a design both beautiful anddeeply beautiful both relevant tothefunctionalintegrityoftimepiece. adesign — watch final the in seen is that force from the watch, Bruttin and his team created the movement design resonance effect. In the course of eliminating this potentially damaging navigation through that esoteric branch of applied physics known as the include timepiece this creating industry. in overcome entire were that difficulties the The in stability timekeeping of rate highest the with organs connected by differentials — aiming to be no less than the watch regulating four incorporates that timepiece mind-blowing a Quatuor, La Monégasque collection. In 2013, Bruttin is set to unveil the Excalibur Dubuis’Roger Manufacture in effect great to showcased Seal, Geneva the with certified being 680 RD caliber chronograph vertical-clutch column-wheel, in-house new the to led has department development movement the of leadership His o’clock. seven and twin five at the tourbillons of modern spectacle visual the its by enhanced with skeletonization of Tourbillon, style Double Skeleton Excalibur the stunning include projects His Neuchâtel. of School Engineering the a from as 2002 in conception watchmaking in background a Dubuis with constructor movement Roger Manufacture joined Bruttin Gregory bruttin seeks inputfrom theF which Bruttin occasionally dispenser initsbase,through Magic-8-Ball-like answer Happy Meal.Itconceals a Wars films, from a Mc Jedi master from theStar figurine of Yoda, the ultimate Bruttin obtained this plastic D orce onald’s © V RE Manufa H LUE 32TION ASI A ISSU c ture

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REVOLUTION H 193 REVOLUTION H 194 W125472 size: W227 xH305Eugene2nd thinking that the competition is only between stop only is competition the should that thinking We risks. the about forgetting we’re and earth, the on ones only the are we that Wethink Switzerland. in here other, each at biting stop industry should “We collective Weltanschauung: the in shift paradigm a than less nothing proposes Gygax industry, watch Swiss asked the about change continued would he Whenwhat for its industrialization. path of pursue a process to out Nardin mapping Ulysse and with parallels time drawing our century, 19th the of late expos American the by precipitated watchmaking Swiss extrapolates in reformation the He from development. its driving proven philosophies such has tectonics,industry and its with Nardin, anticipatingmaterialsinnovationsforesightin Ulysse as such perspective, and it’s comforting that a company base calibers.” our is term long the in strength our us gives really what honest, be to But too. important they’re nice; always are watches complicated course, “Of Ihnen. asserts independence,” its and IWC of growth the for important which are projects, strategic for looking about more is now position “My confidence. with development movement company’s to the direct Ihnen allows what doubt no is embodies IWC’sKernto Georges that integrity technical commitment and perception of clarity the and chiefexecutiveinvaluableinstances,is such in growing.”still is one’sof trust and support The demand and — thousand few a made already we’ve “now and convictions, his with ahead pushed most.”Ihnen the at them of hundred wound caliber and we would probably sell a few hand- a for small too was market the me told people of lot a movement.’ But automatic an being from far so not It’s reserve? power of days eight — hand-wound normal a not it’s didn’t ‘But said, who I caliber.hand-wound a in people believe were there — example for of 2010, caliber Portofino hand-wound Pierre Gygax takes a similarly long long similarly a takes Gygax Pierre Wat Titans chMaking of of

id ht t eoe ams scn nature second almost it becomes that find will watchmaking Swiss in — personally and Those who statement.are deeply invested — the professionally of nature obvious seemingly the despite relevance continued its of any lose future now thereisLexus.” not were “But first,” muses. atToyota he Mercedes by frightened and BMW probably most know, “You analogs. circumstantial for here, though one might look to other industries routes easy any aren’t there that agrees Gygax Suisse), Horlogère l’Industrie de Patronale Convention the to according levels, 2011 accurate to figures (approximate industry the up make who people 53,000 the of mindsets local, competition.” not global, of world a in are we like behave to start financially.should healthy very we are So become adult now — we are making profits, we It’s not true. The Swiss watch industry needs to us, that competition from abroad doesn’t exist. The truism that you can only build the the build only can you that truism The the changing about go might one how to As n h fudto o te at doesn’t past the of foundation the on in the manufacture manufacture Nardin Ulysse the in hairspring and escapement used used escapement and hairspring in silicon ( silicon in The Dual Ulysse escapement escapement Ulysse Dual The caliber UN-118 caliber above Heritage WATCH ) and the silicon silicon the ) and h ipaal aet f t dwfl. When downfall. its of agent implacable the — nemesis industry’s watch the as painted been universally has what to unambiguously sides beneficial some been have there that . In a further twist, it also appears the — off it killed nearly what also ironically is about is industry watch Swiss the what of the not much defines still that event one The biggest. they’re but annals, watchmaking Musée Chaux-de-Fonds La International d’Horlogerie. the at 1876 Philadelphia on exhibition recent a by implied as well, as Confoederatio the of borders the beyond industries of evolution the about learn the to lessons for have Wediscotheque. our of much winter So long. too far for tolerated were — it described vividly Koh Wei founder REVH as — idiocy” horological and where party “unconscionable acts of time-telling chicanery a at on house the turned shakedown recent most Thehistory. of pages the of industry temperature the take figuratively to hs ae asv catr i the in chapters massive are These and contextualize it within the the within it contextualize and LUTION from Ulysse Nardin soon this feature in timepieces escapement. wheels oftheDualUlysse on the silicon escape involving chamfered edges sharing for the first time, S new development at times, is a groundbreaking carries with him at all the notebook that Gygax T his drawing, made in igatec that Gygax is E xpect to see oiac i slcn at and parts silicon in dominance into Nardin Ulysse directing approaching CHF200 turnover a and employees manufacture 300 realized with fully a from to turnover, million went CHF11.5 and employees Nardin 20 with company a being Ulysse concepts, strong with product companies to capabilities introducing industrial in talent and experience remarkable Gygax’s With company. the to bring substance technical to entrusted Schnyder Nardin Rolf Ulysse that man join the to — returned he years, 14 for industry the leaving After today. equaled be to yet Megaquartz,theultra-precise quartz watch thathas 2.4MHz the of development the to contributed He future. no have to time seen were watches a mechanical and technology at new exciting the movements was quartz when quartz high-quality on working Omega, in career his began Gygax Pierre Industrial director gyga pierre f iae. ih hs kytns in keystones these With Sigatec. of ilo. ya is Gygax million. Ulysse Nardin was able to execute such such execute to able was Nardin Ulysse x horologicalFreakthe asfeats Dual DirectDualescapement, later, and the Dual Ulysse escapement. escapement. Ulysse Dual the Recently, debuted its manufacture caliber UN-118, made possible possible made UN-118, ih h fly industrialized fully the with manufacture structures that that structures manufacture Gygax © V RE also responsible for for responsible also its Ulysse Nardin also also Nardin Ulysse

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REVOLUTION H 195 REVOLUTION H 196 of definitions. If you can define the languageof havepower, especially ifthey come inthe form introduce.” Words to what see to interesting where the sun is getting low in the sky. “It’s lake, very the over out looks technology.” He new entriesforon Horology of Dictionary Professional the adapt help to me asked “They’ve shortly: on working project be may he a that briefly mentions Golay entire horizon. a person’s fill can world watch the of conventionsandstructure the how see to easy Lac with Lémanshimmering middletheindistance, it’s horology of edifice metaphorical and physical the Muller by Surrounded Franck Watchland. at courtyard open the from taken had we wished I another path.” which in time never a was there that now say can I circuits. integrated for used was which precision same best the thatwanted we — partsmetalsmall for option was it in felt time I and my microelectronics, from technology LIGA about stamping in we “When silicon pursue to decided says. Gygax industries,” other by used technologies new about curious be his in invaluable position. current convinced was equally experience this is that he and — business molding, injection — industries other in worked too new for ideas materials, newtechnology.” me gives It time. that all for watchmaking of out was I that me, for good was at the time still very traditional. And it was I had experienced to the watch industry, which to adapt the new systems and technologies that was idea my 2003, in Golay] [Pierre-Michel came toFranck Mullertoworkwithmycousin of the watch industry,” Golay says. “And when I out completely years, 25 about there stayed “I electronics. and micromechanics into moved near-collapse of mechanical watchmaking, he the after industry the left Golay Jean-Pierre On a clear day, you can see the Mont Blanc Blanc Mont the see can day,you clear a On he Nardin, Ulysse to came Gygax Before Wat Titans chMaking microelectronics, the automotive automotive the microelectronics, of of technology, it’s because I knew knew I because it’s technology,

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additional Interviews Sophie Furley additional translations from the french sarah ann murray age tofocusonwatchmaking. world lostatalentedcellistwhenhedecidedatyoung musical the and musician gifted a is Pierre-Michel, cousin opera-singing his like Golay, creativity. and innovation out-of-the-box by characterized been has Thunderbolt) Rapide Tourbillon debuted recently the and 3, since then, his work (including Revolution the Giga Tourbillon and multi-axis the first was His there Group. project Muller Franck the of department development movement the at him join and come to conversation, telephone a during Pierre-Michel him, invited cousin Golay his when 2003, in at Genthod to work came first He Muller. Franck at in work implements his he that technology new to openness an him giving with credits he experience an years, for 25 remained he where sector, micromechanics the to moved and industry the left he Crisis, Quartz the to assemble this complex piece of timekeeping. During how years six in learned he and clock Atmos the with was horlogerie haute with encounter hands-on first His Jaeger-LeCoultre. as know now we company the very beginning, with his father the technical director at the from horlogerie haute of world the by surrounded Jean-Pierre Golay grew up in the Vallée de Joux and was Director, R&D jean-pierre “pure expression ofmechanism” Rapide Thunderboltistheresult The movement oftheT escape-wheel configuration. Its technical troubleshooting, due construction encapsulates the to the complexities of its fixed that Golay describes as being of years ofdevelopment and his visionofhorology golay ourbillon Franck Muller Group © V RE H LUE 32TION ASI A ISSU

REVOLUTION H 197