Defy El Primero Fusee Tourbillon
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Chrono Times NAWCC Chapter 190 Newsletter
Chrono Times NAWCC Chapter 190 Newsletter Ventura and Santa Barbara Counties INSIDE THIS ISSUE November/December 2015 President’s Message 1, 5 Tales From The Bench PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE Ferdinand Geitner 2-4 By George Gaglini Meeting Location 2 This Month’s t has been my pleasure to serve as President of Chapter 190 for 2014 Mini Workshop 3 I and 2015. In these years I have seen our chapter continue to grow in Chapter Meeting membership (176 members as of last count) and vigorously pursue its Calendar 3 mission to preserve and encourage interest in and appreciation of the art The Santa Barbara Tower Clock—Breakdown and and science of timekeeping, timepieces and all things horological. Repair Ernie Jensen 6-10 In past mini-workshops and monthly meeting programs, Chapter 190’s Biography: enthusiasts learned how to anneal metal without using flame, and the best Mark Harmeling 11 way to pack precious and delicate clocks for safe shipment by commercial Introduction to Clock carriers. In a recent 2015 meeting program, members and guests discov- Collecting Repair and Maintenance ered the secrets behind “mystery clocks.” In yet another, we marveled at a David Perez 12 –14 series of ingenious homemade tools that help in clock repair and restora- Highlights of September’s tion. Every monthly meeting is packed with information and designed to Meeting 15 raise interest and provide answers to questions attendees may have in the Educational Workshops 16 ever-expanding world of horological knowledge. (Continued on page 5) Chapter Officers 17 Classifieds 18 TALES FROM THE BENCH By Ferdinand Geitner The Weakest Link beautiful triple fusee A English Bracket Clock, chiming on 8 bells came by my shop recently with what the customer thought was a broken spring. -
Collectable POCKET Watches 1750-1920
cOLLECTABLE POCKET watches 1750-1920 Ian Beilby Clocks Magazine Beginner’s Guide Series No 5 cOLLECTABLE POCKET watches 1750-1920 Ian Beilby Clocks Magazine Beginner’s Guide Series No 5 Published by Splat Publishing Ltd. 141b Lower Granton Road Edinburgh EH5 1EX United Kingdom www.clocksmagazine.com © 2017 Ian Beilby World copyright reserved ISBN: 978-0-9562732-4-6 The right of Ian Beilby to be identified as author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher. 2 4 6 8 10 9 7 5 3 1 Printed by CBF Cheltenham Business Forms Ltd, 67 Hatherley Road, Cheltenham GL51 6EG CONTENTS Introduction 7 Chapter 1. The eighteenth century verge watch 13 Chapter 2. The nineteenth century verge watch 22 Chapter 3. The English cylinder and rack lever watch 36 Chapter 4. The English lever watch 42 Chapter 5. The Swiss lever watch 54 Chapter 6. The American lever watch 62 Chapter 7. The Swiss cylinder ladies’ fob watch 72 Chapter 8. Advice on collecting and maintenance 77 Appendix 1. Glossary 82 Appendix 2. Further reading 86 CLOCKS MAGAZINE BEGINNER’S GUIDE SERIES No. 1. Clock Repair, A Beginner’s Guide No. 2. Beginner’s Guide to Pocket Watches No. 3. American Clocks, An Introduction No. 4. What’s it Worth, Price Guide to Clocks 2014 No. -
Skeleton Tourbillon- Skeleton
A tourbillon is RUSSIAN SOUL MADE IN GERMANY an addition to the mechanics Poljot-V GmbH” was founded in in 1992 of a watch es- in Frankfurt/Main (Germany) to sell capement. De- watches made by The First Moscow veloped around Watch Factory, Russia’s first and biggest 1795 by the watch factory at the time. The distribu- French-Swiss tion was followed by the creation of a watchmaker new brand “Poljot-International” in 1995. Abraham-Louis On the one hand, continuing the Rus- Breguet from an earlier idea by the English chro- sian traditions of the brand “Poljot”, the newly founded watch nometer maker John Arnold, a tourbillon aims brand “Poljot-International” has been choosing a fundamen- to counter the effects of gravity by mounting the tally new way of development by using new high-quality mate- escapement and balance wheel in a rotating rial for the watch production creating its own modern design, cage, to negate the effect of gravity when the high quality assembling of watches and a severe systematic timepiece (and thus the escapement) is stuck in process control. a certain position. The projecting works, manufacturing and certifying of watches In “Basilika” Tourbillon – Skeleton, the tourbillon were relocated to Germany, as a result of which the company cage is placed on the 6h position and the arrow- could become completely independent and evolve its own de- bridge inside which moves 60 seconds can also velopment strategy. In the same year the company joined the be used as a second counter. Many small parts “Federation of German Watch Producers”. -
Resonance Chronometer
Resonance Chronometer Six unique timepieces featuring: the first wristwatch movement with two independent balances synchronised by resonance for supreme mechanical precision. An exclusive movement: invented and made by master-watchmaker, F. P. Journe. François-Paul Journe has been studying the physical phenomenon of resonance for 20 years. At the start of his career, when he was working at his uncle’s horological workshops, he was entrusted with the restoration of a resonance clock made for the king of France. He was fascinated by the idea that a mechanism could apply such a mysterious phenomenon to achieve precision. The young man’s interest in resonance brought him into long discussions with a friend, a naval engineer who was also faced with the disturbing influences of this phenomenon. After much trial and error, Journe succeeded in building a resonance pocket-watch in 1983, and finally the world’s first wristwatch movement using the principle of resonance. Resonance — the synchronisation of frequencies Every oscillating object sends out vibrations. Nearby bodies absorb the energy and can start vibrating at the same frequency. This phenomenon of resonance is part of our daily lives. In a resonance watch, each balance both sends out vibrations and absorbs those of its pair. When they start oscillating they naturally become synchronised, beating in counter-phase. This only happens when they are around 0.4mm apart and the difference in their rate is less than 10 seconds a day. A rack-and-pinion moves one balance closer to its twin until resonance sets in. Both then beat together as twin hearts, keeping the time with a precision that no other mechanical watch can equal. -
Only Time Will Tell: Examination and Analysis of an Early German Watch
Article: Only time will tell: Examination and analysis of an early German watch Author(s): Meg Loew Craft Source: Objects Specialty Group Postprints, Volume Fourteen, 2007 Pages: 47-64 Compilers: Virginia Greene, Patricia Griffin, and Christine Del Re th © 2007 by The American Institute for Conservation of Historic & Artistic Works, 1156 15 Street NW, Suite 320, Washington, DC 20005. (202) 452-9545 www.conservation-us.org Under a licensing agreement, individual authors retain copyright to their work and extend publications rights to the American Institute for Conservation. Objects Specialty Group Postprints is published annually by the Objects Specialty Group (OSG) of the American Institute for Conservation of Historic & Artistic Works (AIC). A membership benefit of the Objects Specialty Group, Objects Specialty Group Postprints is mainly comprised of papers presented at OSG sessions at AIC Annual Meetings and is intended to inform and educate conservation-related disciplines. Papers presented in Objects Specialty Group Postprints, Volume Fourteen, 2007 have been edited for clarity and content but have not undergone a formal process of peer review. This publication is primarily intended for the members of the Objects Specialty Group of the American Institute for Conservation of Historic & Artistic Works. Responsibility for the methods and materials described herein rests solely with the authors, whose articles should not be considered official statements of the OSG or the AIC. The OSG is an approved division of the AIC but does not necessarily represent the AIC policy or opinions. Craft AIC Objects Specialty Group Postprints, Volume 14, 2007 ONLY TIME WILL TELL: EXAMINATION AND ANALYSIS OF AN EARLY GERMAN WATCH Meg Loew Craft Abstract The authenticity of a small early German watch (WAM 58.31) in the collection of the Walters Art Museum was questioned. -
Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at the Frick Collection
ON VIEW IN THE PORTICO GALLERY PRECISION AND SPLENDOR: CLOCKS AND WATCHES AT THE FRICK COLLECTION January 23, 2013, through March 9, 2014 (extended, note new end date) Today the question “What time is it?” is quickly answered by looking at any number of devices around us, from watches to phones to computers. For millennia, however, determining the correct time was not so simple. In fact, it was not until the late thirteenth century that the first mechanical clocks were made, slowly replacing sundials and water clocks. It would take several hundred years before mechanical timekeepers became reliable and accurate. This exhibition explores the discoveries and innovations made in the field of horology from the early sixteenth to the nineteenth century. The exhibition, to be shown in the new Portico Gallery, features eleven clocks and fourteen watches from the Winthrop Kellogg Edey bequest, along with five clocks lent Mantel Clock with Study and Philosophy, movement by Renacle-Nicolas Sotiau (1749−1791), figures after Simon-Louis by a private collector, works that have never before been seen in New York Boizot (1743–1809), c. 1785−90, patinated and gilt bronze, marble, enameled metal, and glass, H.: 22 inches, private collection City. Together, these objects chronicle the evolution over the centuries of more accurate and complex timekeepers and illustrate the aesthetic developments that reflected Europe’s latest styles. Precision and Splendor: Clocks and Watches at The Frick Collection was organized by Charlotte Vignon, Associate Curator of Decorative Arts, The Frick Collection. Major funding for the exhibition is provided by Breguet. Additional support is generously provided by The Selz Foundation, Peter and Gail Goltra, and the David Berg Foundation. -
Ref. 5101R 10-Day Tourbillon Patek Philippe’S Marathon Runner Now in Rose Gold
Press Release Patek Philippe Geneva March 2009 The new Ref. 5101R 10-Day Tourbillon Patek Philippe’s marathon runner now in rose gold Six years ago, the Ref. 5101P turned heads and won over hearts. The rectangular timepiece with a platinum case, a form movement, two mainspring barrels for a power reserve of 10 days, and a tourbillon escapement flaunted its assets with the discreetness and understatement that is so typical for Patek Philippe. Now, the time has come to introduce a new version: the Ref. 5101R in 18K rose gold. The benchmark for marathon runners: a 10-day power reserve Launched in the year 2000, the 10-day Patek Philippe Ref. 5100 initiated a trend that since then galvanized many high-end watchmaking companies. New watches with power reserves of four, six, and eight days appeared year after year. But in 2003, Patek Philippe outdistanced other contenders with the Ref. 5101, which in addition to the 10-day power reserve also featured a tourbillon escapement. To this very day, it is still the only crown-wound wristwatch with such an extended autonomy. It must be noted that the power reserve refers to the period in which the watch preserves a functional amplitude and thus fulfills strict rate accuracy requirements. This holds true for the new Ref. 5150 R, which runs accurately for 240 hours when fully wound. The advantage is obvious: it can easily be left off the wrist for a week without having to be resynchronized. In the Patek Philippe caliber 28-20/222 manufacture movement, the requisite energy is stored in two mainspring barrels. -
The History of Watches
Alan Costa 18 January, 1998 Page : 1 The History of Watches THE HISTORY OF WATCHES ................................................................................................................ 1 OVERVIEW AND INTENT ........................................................................................................................ 2 PRIOR TO 1600 – THE EARLIEST WATCHES ..................................................................................... 3 1600-1675 - THE AGE OF DECORATION ............................................................................................... 4 1675 – 1700 – THE BALANCE SPRING ................................................................................................... 5 1700-1775 – STEADY PROGRESS ............................................................................................................ 6 1775-1830 - THE FIRST CHRONOMETERS ........................................................................................... 8 1830-1900 – THE ERA OF COMPLICATIONS ..................................................................................... 10 1900 ONWARDS – METALLURGY TO THE RESCUE? .................................................................... 12 BIBLIOGRAPHY ....................................................................................................................................... 15 Alan Costa 18 January, 1998 Page : 2 Overview and Intent This paper is a literature study that discusses the changes that have occurred in watches over time. It covers mainly -
The Art of Making Watch Mainsprings, Repeater Springs and Balance Springs
THE ART OF MAKING WATCH MAINSPRINGS, REPEATER SPRINGS AND BALANCE SPRINGS By Mr W. BLAKEY Hydraulic Engineer Etc. AMSTERDAM MARC-MICHEL REY 1780 © Copyright 2014 Richard Watkins, Tasmania, Australia www.watkinsr.id.au Translated from William Blakey L’Art de Faire les Ressorts de Montres, 1780, Amsterdam: Marc-Michel Rey: http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/ bpt6k61161354 Contents Translator’s Notes ......................................................................................iv Biography of William Blakey ...............................iv Dating the Technology. v The Translation .........................................vi Bibliography ............................................vi Prospectus ...................................................................................................ix Extract From the Records of the Royal Academy of Sciences ..................xi Foreword ..................................................................................................xvii The Art of Making Watch Mainsprings. .................................................... 1 The Way to Make Repeater Springs ........................................................ 27 The Way to Make Balance Springs. ......................................................... 29 iii Translator’s Notes Biography of William Blakey William Blakey was the son of an English watchmaker of the same name. Blakey senior was born about 1688. He was apprenticed as a watchmaker in 1701 and died in 1748 aged 60. In 1718 he went to France where he was in charge of a steelworks -
Horological TIMES June 1998
HoROLOGICAL TIMES June 1998 Horology on the Internet American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute Test, Analyze & Service Quartz Watches ~ ENG.NEERED & MANUFACTURED I THE U.S.A. ~ Accelerator The Accelerator is a high speed quartz watch gear train tester. It operates by induction power and allows the user to drive the gear train of a sealed watch with single steps or variable high speed control. The Accelerator will also determine if a sealed watch is operating electrically. FEATURES: Single step watch motor impulse control Set hands Variable watch motor impulse speed control Check battery without opening watch Variable watch motor intensity control Test electric circuit High-speed gear-train test Watch motor impulse indicator Release locked gear-trains High quality break resistant case Restart sealed watches Engineered & manufactured in the U.S.A. Improve gear lubrication #TS-2900 Cal-Pal Quartz Watch Analy:z:er------ The Cal-Pal is an intelligent countertop quartz watch analyzer engineered for the watch retail & service industries. FEATURES: Calibration of time accuracy in sec/24 hours Check battery without opening watch Battery tester for silver oxide, mercury, & lithium types Temperature compensating internal crystal oscillator Gear train evaluation via adjustable output voltage Solid state computer technology Current measurement in micro-amps Compact break resistant case (6"L x 3.5"W x 1.5"H) Coil resistance in Kilo-ohms Self test at turn on; Auto-off after 30 minutes of non-use Continuity tester via audio output High standard service center accuracy 16 Character alpha/numeric display Motor pulse audio & visual feedback Watch Mate-- -- Designed for the store where battery replacement is common. -
200612__Sabrina Weber Thesis
LUXURY BRANDS AND CRM, MUTUALLY EXCLUSIVE? – DEVELOPING A CRM STRATEGY FOR PATEK PHILIPPE Sabrina Weber Project submitted as partial requirement for the conferral of the Master of Science in Business Administration Supervisor: Manuel Lopes da Costa, CEO HP Portugal April 2012 – Sabrina Weber Sabrina DEVELOPING A CRM STRATEGY FOR PATEK PHILIPPE PATEK FOR STRATEGY CRM A DEVELOPING LUXURYBRANDSMUTUALLY ANDCRM, EXCLUSIVE? Abstract in English Nowadays consumers get more demanding than ever before, marketing moves from the traditional transactional driven paradigm to the new, relational based paradigm. That is why customer relationship management (CRM) gains importance. Conventional brands were the first one’s that implement a CRM strategy in order to built strong long-life relationships with the most valuable customers. Luxury brands are just starting to realize the benefits of CRM. Whereas they are reluctant to use the usual and common techniques that have been proven successful for classic consumer goods because it involves the risk for luxury brands to loose its prestige status. Hence, luxury brands are facing the challenge to reconcile CRM and at the same time, keeping their luxury image. This work intents to answer the question if luxury brands and CRM are mutually exclusive or not based on the case study of developing a CRM strategy for the luxury brand watch company Patek Philippe. This case study is not conducted in cooperation with the company Patek Philippe that is why the type of case data used in this work is data available in the Internet, books, magazines or lectures. To answer the work’s question, theoretical knowledge gets applied to a real life situation by the reference of the case study of Patek Philippe. -
Continuation of the History and Progress of the Art of Watchmaking
293 XXIII.— Continuation of the History and Progress of the Art of Watchmaking. In a Second Letter from OCTAVIUS MORGAN, Esq., M.P., F.S.A. to Sir HENRY ELLIS, KM. Secretary. Read 28th Feb. and 14th March, 1850. MY DEAR SIR HENRY, % Pall Mall, Feb. 27th, 1850. MY former letter to you on " The History and Progress of the Art of Watch- making," and the exhibition of ancient Watches which accompanied it, having created some interest on the subject, I am induced to exhibit on the table of our Society some additions which I have since then made to my Collection, and which I will accompany with some observations on them, and such further particulars respecting the history of watches in general as I have been able to collect. I stated in my former letter that the first watches which were made had no fusee to equalise the power of the main spring, that improvement being a subsequent invention, but that there was some contrivance employed for producing that effect. This is mentioned in many works on watchmaking, but is nowhere accurately described, and the writers do not seem clearly to have known what it was. Nor do antiquarian collectors of ancient watches appear to have paid much attention to the internal construction of the examples which they have brought together. Berthoud, however, in his " Histoire de la Mesure du Temps," vol. i. p. 77, does give some description of it, and, speaking of the main spring, says, " It was soon perceived that, the action of the spring being much greater at the height of its tension than at the end, great variations in the watch resulted.