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1165 Medallion Drive• Saint Paul, MN 55120 •Toll-Free Nationwide: 1-800-328-0205 Local liSI~ ~12·4~2·42Y8 • TOll•lir@@ liax: 1•800•!J41J•BJ04 Inquires: 612-452-7180 VOLUME 18, NUMBER 9 SEPTEMBER 1994 TM A Peaceful HOROLOGICAL Invasion 36

A Double Fusee Official Publication of the American Watchmakers-Clockmak:ers Institute

Joe Cerullo 2 President's Message Cuckoo Clock

Henry B. Fried 4 Questions & Answers 38

John P. Kenyon 8 The Apprentice Clockmaker Measuring Instruments How to Make a Fred S. Burckhart 12 Rock Quarry et tu Customers, Sandwiches and the Supernatural Stopworks Henry B. Fried 14 Waterproof & Water-Resistant Watches Finger Piece Part 11, Condensation 44 Archie B. Perkins 20 Technically Watches Antique Watch Restoration, Part CV

Fred S. Burckhart 26 Management 1994 Part 5 Horological Tour David Christianson 28 The Novice Watchmaker On Short Jobs and Expansion Bands 48

Marshall F. Richmond 32 Pickle Barrel Measuring and Weighing Jewelry Stones Happenings at Greg Hostetter 54 Affiliate Chapter Column AWl's34th Henry B. Fried 56 Book Review Das Tourbillon: Faszination der Uhrentechnik Annual Meeting 49

HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copy­ righted by the American Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincin­ nati, Ohio 45211, for $45.00 per year ($4.50 per copy) in the United States and DEPARTMENTS $50.00 per year, $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.) Second class postage paid at Ask Huck 6 Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL AWI Matertial Search 19 TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Association News 52 News of the Trade 58 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Classified Ads 60 Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. PHONE: (513) 661-3838, Dates to Remember 64 AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording), FAX: (513) 661-3131. Advertisers' Index 64 *Fellows of the Amerian Watchmakers Institute* Robert F. Bishop *Orville R. Hagans Robert A. Nelson James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman *Hamilton E. Pease George Daniels Harold J. Herman Milton C. Stevens Henry B. Fried Gerald G. Jaeger Marvin E. Whitney Josephine F. Hagans *Deceased

Executive and Editorial Offices President's Message AWI Central P.O. Box llOll n my message last month, I mentioned that we here at 3700 Harrison Avenue I AWI central were working on a project to build a new AWI Cincinnati, OH 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 central headquarters here in Ohio. Fax: (513) 661-3131 At this time I would like to go into some detail for those who AWi Technical Hotline: (513) 661-4636 were not able to attend my briefing during the annual board meet­ Milton C. Stevens: Editor ing in June. Julie Wesling Whaley: Associate Editor This is truly a grand project for AWI and its membership. In Diane M. DeVillez: Art & Production Director its conception, we never dreamed it would be this grand. . Donna Baas: Advertising Manager We knew we needed more space. We knew our goal was to combine the offices, Sharon McManus: Circulation Manager library, museum, project extend classes, and off-site storage into one location. This was to Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager Mary Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator be achieved by taking whatever money could be raised by the sale of our existing building and our watch collection, and using the proceeds to buy an existing building and have it Technical Editors renovated for our needs. Robert F. Bishop J.M. Huckabee James H. Broughton John P. Kenyon Because of our good fortune in the sale, however, we are able to design a building to Fred S. Burckhardt John A Nagle suit our needs from the ground up. Milt, Jim, David and the rest of the staff worked on floor David A. Christianson Archie B. Perkins plans that would suit their individual and collective needs now and in the future. Charles Cleves Robert D. Porter Joe Crooks Marshall R. Richmond The new building committee-consisting of Charles Cleves, Marvin Whitr!ey and Wes Door Marvin E. Whitney me-was formed for the purpose of representing the board of directors and the more than Henry B. Fded six thousand members ofA WI. Our job is to oversee and approve every step of this project. AWi Officers Three months ago, we picked out a three-and-a-half acre lot in a new office park off Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: President Dry Fork Road and Interstate 74 in Harrison, Ohio. In July, we closed on the property, and M. R. Carpenter, CMC, CMEW: First Vice President Henry Frystak, CMW: Second Vice President our construction company began the final plans. I think you will agree that we all worked Fred S. Burckhardt: Secretary very hard and came up with a unique concept for AWI. Marvin E. Whitney: CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer The building is basically designed in a tripod configuration, with the museum and AWi Directors library as the center piece, and the offices and classrooms on either side. The total square Robert F. Bishop, CMEW, FAW! footage is approximately 15,000. Since the museum will be the focal point, it will be circu­ James H. Broughton, CMEW, FAW! lar and divided into twelve sections like an analog watch or clock face. The museum will be Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW Wes Door, CMW highlighted by a vaulted, domed, sky-lit roof. Ronald Iverson, CMC There are two main classrooms for teaching, and a smaller tool room and machine Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAW! John A. Nagle shop. The classrooms will face north for the best natural lighting, and will also have natural Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CMEW, FAW! light from sky lights. The new building also has a video production edit room and video Robert D. Porter, CMW · studio. There are more than 2,000 square feet of storage space for books and documents. Marshall F. Richmond, CMW The property will be landscaped and will contain paved parking for more than twenty­ Greg Hostetter, CC: Affiliate Chapter Director five cars. The borders of the parking lot will be planted with fast-growing pine trees for a Charles F. McKinney: Research & Education Council fenced appearance. We even have plans for a tower clock, a sundial, and a Foucault pendu­ Director Wes Door, CMW: Immediate Past President lum in the museum center. We plan to break ground sometime in September. I will try to keep you informed of Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Director James Lubic: Associate Executive Director our progress. David LaFleche: Administrative Director This is truly an exciting time for AWI. This new headquarters will secure our existence Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Technical Director for many decades to come. Ji;µ Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited with­ out written permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Copyright ON THE FRONT: Paint brush flowers shot at the SanCMountains in New © 1994 by the American Watchmakers­ Clockmakers Institute. Mexico by Mike Butterfield of Albuquerque, New Mexico. 2 Horological Times/September 1994

Questions & Answers

By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC

Many time a technical article will tell the reader Can you publish for us any information on how this new Q• tudying tempering and hardening items to heat until system works, and the best way to perform repairs? I believe that cherry red, traw color purple or blue.My qu ti on i what hould a sliding pinion without a hole can be made smaller in diameter, be the amount of light in the work area? Some people need more therefore, these are thinner watch movements. light to see by if the area is dark. If too bright, it can affect the Emilio Aponte Jr., Newport, NC range of color observed. You can observe something in the dark that is cherry red, but in bright light, it does not show up. What To make certain of the correctness of my reply, I range oflight is recommended? A. contacted Mr. Fenwick of ETA. He told me he lectured Alton A. DuBois Jr., Queensbury, NY to your group recently. He was most helpful with the following suggestions on the various ETA movements you listed. Your question is pertinent. In my own experience, and He suggested that should any difficulty arise concerning the A • I've done much work as well as teach heat treatment of "sliding pinion with a blade or slot," should the stem not be seated horological metals, I have found that the lighter colors and more easily, to press the dimpled pin again to allow the stem better subtle changes of color-say from normal to light straw, straw, seating. He also offered that in the 980 model ETA, there was a light purple to purple and cherry red-require more light to ob­ plastic shim supporting the stem. He cautioned that the stem should serve. be inserted carefully so that this shim is not crimped. When it comes to cherry red at least, I'd use as little light as He will send me more instruction material that I will forward possible, because the light provided by the heated metal would to AWI headquarters, and they, upon your request to Jim Lubic, tell me when that color was reached. Using too bright a light will have copies made for you. source would generally cause too much heat to be applied to the metal. Those with sight problems might have to adjust to their I hope you can enlighten me regarding a problem I own perceptions after some experimentation. Q• have with a French clock case. After removing the sur­ If the parties with poor light or color perception must per­ face dirt with mild soap and water, I find that the black surface form such work, perhaps a kiln with calibrated thermal indication has a cloudy (or light milky) color in some areas. Thanks to the might help. The following chart should be of use (all tempera­ Horological Times Ten-Year Index, I located some articles on tures are in degrees Fahrenheit). refinishing French clock cases. I tried polishing the discoloration Pale yellow - 340 Dark blue - 570 out with tin oxide powder made into a paste with water, but it did Light yellow - 440 Very dark blue - 600 nothing. I notice some small shiny areas in a few places on the Pale straw yellow - 450 Red - 980 case, appearing as if the case at some time possibly had a coating Straw yellow - 460 Dull red - 1240 of some sort on it. Is it possible that the case is not marble or slate? Dark yellow - 480 Cherry red - 1650 Could it possibly be a black-dyed alabaster? (I have seen alabas­ Brown yellow - 500 Clear orange - 2010 ter figurines that appear to have a clear protective coating.) The Red brown (spotted) - 510 White heat - 2370 movement is marked Tiffany, and I am sure the case was origi­ Brown purple - 520 Bright white - 2550 nally solid black. I would appreciate any information you may be Full purple - 540 Extreme white - 2730+ able to pass along to restore an even color to this case. Full blue - 560 Melting point - 2800 Robert B. Wack, New Windsor, NY

At our guild and affiliate chapter level, we have been Rather than type a length reply, I am going to refer you Q• discussing the new system of a sliding pinion with a A • to Thorpe's book, French Mantel Clocks, pages 214 to blade or a slot. Tiris system requires a male or female stem. Here 219 inclusive. These pages deal with polishing and restoring \

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Horological Times/September 1994 5 Ask Huck Clockmaking Bits About... The Clockmaker's Bench Block The Clockmaker's Screwdriver By J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FBHI

Question: I have purchased some bench blocks, and Someone reported a jeweler's drawplate could be the holes never seem to fit my needs. What is the used, but I haven't tried one. solution to this dilemma? The bench block situation is one where each of us needs help. Possibly a reader can offer some new Answer: You have defined one of the major prob­ ideas. lems in serious clockmaking. The problem is very serious to all who are doing wheel work, and I don't Question: Several books on clockmaking have a rec­ know of an easy solution. ommendation on basic tools. Why some of the Keep an eye on salvage yards for a suitable piece strange looking screwdrivers? of steel (size and surface usable). Lay out the hole pattern, and drill it with all sizes of bits in a drill Answer: It appears to me that the only answer to index. This is a big job, but sure does solve a big your question is the writer's preference. problem. Of course, the driver must fit the screw for area­ I found a piece of hexagon steel about 2' long sonable rate of productivity, and a bad driver sure and 2 7 /8" across its major diameter. This was sawed will deface a nice clock. into 1 112" lengths and laid out in circles of holes. Here is my choice, which is suitable for most Every hole was drilled for 1-60 drill sizes, which clocks in home or office. Five sizes will be needed, filled two blocks. The holes were counterbored from namely, 1/16", 3/32", 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" across the back side for clearance. The pieces were then the bit. Special cases may call for a thick or thin bit, finished on a large lathe. A nice and useful piece, it but the exception is rare. gave me a new appreciation for what it takes to make I like long, round shanks in the order of four or a bench block. Several more pieces were drilled in more inches. The driver is normally held by the shank sizes of 1/16" to 112" in 1/32" steps. The job was at a near point of balance. The driver is spun be­ more work than I estimated. tween thumb and fingers for speed, using the handle A piece of sheet steel about 1/4" thick could be only to tighten or loosen the screw. With a little prac­ more easily drilled. This could be used across the tice, you can rival a power driver in speed. jaws of a vise or other suitable rest. My handle preference is wood; it's easier on the hands. The bit should be kept in good condition, with ---HERMLE MOVEMENTS-­ straight sides, edges, and a square end. This makes the driver more skid-proof for the spin technique. from So what is the best screwdriver? It's hard to ar­ ~ufbrfunrfq fillnrks, ~nr. gue against one that feels and works best in your own 1715 Pearlvlew • Muscatine, IA 52761 hand! 0 Phone & FAX: (800) 258-5418 Technical Info: (319) 263-6759 Largest selection in US - over 60 different models. Guaranteed lowest prices. Same day shipping, two year warranty. Most models bronze bushed, milled ratchets. If you have any questions, please write: Factory fresh stock. "Ask Huck," c/o Horological Times, I can custom match 21 different pendulum lengths. P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 lechnical help from a practicing clockmaker - Life Member of AWi. SASE free price llst and Info.

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Horological Times/September 1994 7 The Apprentice Clockmaker

Measuring Instruments

By John P. Kenyon, CMC

An apprentice will discover early on the significance of pre­ 2.54cm = 1 inch cise measuring instruments in the clock shop. Whether refurbish­ lcm = 0.3937 inches ing an old part, fabricating a new one, ordering a replacement, lmm = 0.03937 inches repivoting or doing bushing work success in the final result is partially dependent upon the accuracy of measurements. The Rule The most common measuring devices used in a clock shop This device (see Figure 1) is sometimes referred to as a scale, are rules (scales), slide caliper rules and micrometers. Each of ruler or steel rule. It usually is fabricated from stainless steel. Soft these instruments will be discussed so that the apprentice will be metal, wood and plastic are not practical for the clock shop since familiar with their scale and use. the surface of these materials easily become scratched or defaced Both metric and inch measurements are used in clock work to such an extent that it is impossible to read it with accuracy. but most clockmakers prefer the metric system. In our discussion Frequently, the rule will be a combination device, with six inch of the rule and slide caliper rule, we will use the metric system. (I and fifteen centimeter scales back to back on the same side. The am assuming that our group of apprentices is familiar with the metric scale is graduated in millimeters, and the inch scale usu­ inch scale.) With respect to micrometers, we will cover both met­ ally in sixteenths or thirty-seconds of an inch. Of the three mea­ ric and inch scales. suring tools to be covered, the rule is the least accurate, but ad­ It is possible to measure in one system and convert to the equate for many routine measurements oflength, width and di­ other with a simple formula or a conversion table. ameter where precise accuracy is not required.

Metric Measurements Slide Caliper Rule The metric system is based on a decimal sequence of mea­ The slide caliper rule is similar to the rule with the addition surements. The standard unit of metric measurement for length is of a stationary jaw at the end, and a slidingjaw that can be moved the meter, but generally the clockmaker uses only the centimeter up and down the scale. The one illustrated in Figure 2 has a 15cm (cm) and the millimeter (mm). All units in the system are divis­ scale. The sliding jaw can be locked in a position by lock screw ible by ten. For example: (a). Measurements for outside diameter can be taken between the 1 meter= 10 decimeters jaws as illustrated at (b). Inside diameter is measured between the 1 decimeter = 10 centimeters surfaces (c) and read at (d), which compensates for the thickness lcentimeter = 10 millimeters of the jaws. Some slide calipers are equipped with a thumb screw Clearly, metric units are more convenient to use than inch units, to move the jaw, and measurements are read on a dial or on a since it is not necessary to work with fractions. Some conversion digital scale. Some may have a steel rod depth gauge built in that factors for metric to inch scales are: extends when the jaws are opened. Dials on slide calipers are 25.4mm = 1 inch calibrated in O.lmm graduations. Electronic digital models are

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Horological Times/September 1994 9 readable to 0.01 mm. The caliper illustrated in Figure 2 is equipped will increase by O. lmm at each graduation up the scale until line with a Vernier scale (named after the inventor) at (e), which is 10 on (c) scale corresponds with line 9 on (d) scale. To read a accurate to 0.lmm. Vernier scale, determine which line on (c) scale aligns with a line on (d) scale. Count the lines on (d) scale up to that point and read Vernier Scale directly. For example, Figure 4-B shows the zero on (c) scale For improved accuracy, a reading to a tenth of a rnillimeter beyond line three on (d) scale. This indicates 3mm plus the dis­ (0.lmm) can be taken from a Vernier scale. This scale is located tance between line three on the (d) scale and 0 on the (c) scale. at (e) in Figure 2, and illustrated in Figure 4-A. Notice that scale Since line two on the (c) scale lines up perfectly with line five on (c) is made up of ten equidistant lines in the space of 9mm. When (d) scale, the additional distance can be read directly from the closed, the zero on the Vernier scale (c) will line up with the zero Vernier scale and expressed as 0.2mm. The total reading is 3.2mm. on the metric scale (d). In this position, the next two lines on the InFigure4-C, the reading is 12.6mm. In Figure 4-D it is 51.3mm. scale will differ from each other by O. lmm, and the difference The Micrometer The micrometer is an instrument used for extremely accu­ rate measurements. The frame is made from rigged steel with an adjustable cylinder, illustrated at (a) in Figure 3. Turning knurled nut (b), called the thimble, moves cylinder (a) to adjust the dis­ tance between the points (c) where the measurement is made. A scale on the frame (d) and another on the thimble (e) are read and combined to provide a measurement in rnillimeters or in thou­ sandths of an inch, depending on which system you are using. The apprentice will have to develop the correct ''feel" for Figure 3. Standard Micrometer adjusting the micrometer when taking a measurement The points should never be screwed up tight on the piece being measured, or damage could result to the instrument or to the part. The appren­ 0 tice will soon develop the touch for the correct pressure when sliding the points of the micrometer over the piece being mea­ I I I I I sured. A ratchet stop (f) is available on the end of the thimble of I I I I I I I some micrometers. It is adjusted to the exact amount of tension for a correct measurement. Use of a ratchet is satisfactory for 0 most clock work, but it should not be used for watch work, where

A damage to the tiny parts might occur from the force of the points. Micrometers are used to measure length, thickness and out­ 0 side diameter. Inside diameter also can be determined by using an inside caliper to measure the distance, then reading the span of I I I I I I the caliper with a micrometer. All measuring tools should be handled with care. Dropping I I I I I I or mishandling a micrometer or a sliding caliper will result in 0 inaccurate readings. Sliding calipers and micrometers can be eas­ B ily checked for accuracy by indexing at zero to verify that the 2 graduations line up.

I I Reading a Metric Micrometer I I I Ill I The scale (d) on the frame in Figure 3 usually is graduated in I I I 0.5mm and numbered at Omm, 5mm, lOmm, 15mm, etc. (some c may be graduated in full rnillimeters, but numbered the same 6 way). Scale (e) on thimble (b) is marked with 50 equal divisions of 0.0lmm, numbered at Omm, 0.05mm, O. lOmm, 0.15mm, and I I I I I I moves 0.5mm in a full revolution of scale (e ). When making a reading, the number of full divisions visible I I II II I on scale (d) first are counted. The reading will be in rnillimeters. 0 Next, the number of divisions on thimble scale (e) are counted up D to the one that coincides with axial line (g) on the frame, and read as a decimal part of a rnillimeter. This reading is added to the Figure 4. Vernier Scale Readings reading from scale (d). Figure 5-A shows a reading of 6mm on 10 Horological Times/September 1994 frame scale (d) and Omm on thimble scale (e ), for a total of 6.0mm. Figure 5-B reads 10.Smm on frame scale (d) and 0.13mm on thimble scale (e), or a total of 10.63mm. Figure 5-C would be 3mm plus 0.25mm, or a total of 3.25mm.

Reading an fuch Micrometer The scale (d) on the frame is graduated in 0.025", and num­ bered 1, 2, 3, etc., at every fourth division to mark hundreds of thousandths. Thimble scale (e) is marked in twenty-five equal divisions ofO.()()l ",numbered at O", 0.005", 0.010", 0.015", etc. One full tum of the thimble is equal to 0.025". To make a reading, count the number of full divisions visible on frame scale (d) and multiply by 0.025". Next, the number of POCKET WATCH BOWS divisions on thimble scale (e) are counted up to the one that coin­ cides with axial line (g) on the frame scale (d), read as thou­ We now stock many different style sandths of an inch, and added to the count on the frame. Figure 6- pocket watch bows. Available in round, A shows 0.150" on frame scale (d), and O" on thimble scale (e), symmetrical, antique style, fancy, railroad for a total of0.150". Figure 6-B reads 0.225" on frame scale (d), and thin model and either nickel or and 0.020" on thimble scale (e), for a total of0.245". Figure 6-C yellow plate. Sizes start at Os to 18s. would be 0.100" plus 0.012" for a total of0.112". Frequently, it is necessary to refer to a conversion table to convert the decimal into a fraction when working in inches. These ROUND tables can be found in engineering text books, and are sometimes SIZE stamped on the "U'' frame of the micrometer. 018 16 12 6 0 NUMBER 132 130 128 126 124 Both types of micrometers will sometimes have a Vernier PRICE EA $3.30 $2.85 $2.50 $2.25 $1.95 scale stamped above the frame scale that coincides with the thimble scale for readings of further accuracy. It is used in the same man­ ~··· ner as on the slide caliper rule. .~· SYMMETRICAL Now that you know how to use these measuring implements, ·~ J all you need is practice, practice, and more practice! SIZE 18 16 12 6 0-3/0 Next time, we'll get back to unit repairs (now that we can NUMBER 332 330/16 328/12 326/6 324 measure), and discuss how to repair a broken tooth on a wheel. PRICE EA $3.95 $3. 75 $3.50 $2.95 $2.25 D

~ :J. ANTIQUE SIZE 18s 16s 12s 6s Os NUMBER 232 230 228 226 224 PRICE EA $3.75 $3.50 $3.45 $2.25 $1.95 - c NUMBER 277 A B PRICE EA $12.50 Figure 5. Micrometer Readings-millimeters 994

A B Figure 6. Micrometer Readings-inches Horological Times/September 1994 11 Rock Quarry et tu Customers, Sandwiches, and the Supernatural

By Fred S. Burckhardt

t was getting close to lunch time, so I decided to take a admit he was lying to me. He said, "Go ahead and fix whatever I break and eat the sandwich I brought from home. It happened has to be done. Call me when it's ready." to be my favorite of all sandwiches: liverwurst and sardines, with As he was leaving, another customer came in. It was my a large slice of onion. I had taken no more than a couple of bites friend, the attorney. I have to admit, he is a good customer, only when a woman came in and asked if I knew how to fix watches. he likes to think he is getting to everybody. To explain, for years Without answering, I went over to where she was standing and I've always set his estimates high, because he never fails to say, asked her what was the problem. For some reason, my sandwich "Gee, can't you do it for a little less than that." When I tell him a breath must have brought back pleasant memories for her. Her lower price, he becomes as happy as a lark, not knowing he still is eyes watered as she said, "It won't wind up anymore." paying the same as everybody else. I took it over to the bench and opened the case to find it was At last I was able to get back to my sandwich. Just as I was a quartz movement. So I checked the battery and found it was about to pick it up, a flash of lightning lit up the whole shop. I exhausted. I told her, "You don't have to wind this watch because wasn't sure if it was another storm, or someone up there was it's a quartz and runs off a battery." trying to tell me something. Anyway, I went to pick up the sand­ "Well, you happen to be wrong, because I've been winding wich, and I could swear it was moving. For just a fleeting second, that watch every day and it has run perfectly," she said. "See if I experienced the same feeling Dr. Frankenstein felt when he was there isn't something wrong with the winding knob." trying to create life. Lifting one slice of the bread, I looked at one Right away I could see this was going to be a losing battle, so of the sardines and watched its eye blink. It was then I knew I put in a new battery and made believe I was fooling with the something strange had taken place. The only question now was, crown. After a couple minutes, I handed the watch back and said, if I tell people what happened, will they think I'm a little nuts, like "You were right. The integrated monitored contingency was not the people who experience UFO sightings? It could mean that making contact, and that's why the synchronized logistical capa­ people from the press and medical-type persons would flood into bility was not working properly." my shop and disrupt my days. She looked at me and said, "I thought it was probably some­ It was a hard decision to make, but since I was hungry, I thing like that. It's nice to find an honest repairman." finished the sandwich. Little did I realize that I blew my only I took her money and told her to bring her watch back every chance of making it to the big time. year so I could check it and make sure everything was working As I was sitting there, pondering my past experience, Jose okay. Ferguson came in. I've known Jose for a long time, and must I was about ready to get back to my sandwich when a fellow admit that he is a little different. By that I mean he always seems came in saying his watch wasn't working right, and asked if I to be far out. You know what I'm talking about, way out in space. could check it for him. I opened the case and saw what the trouble Sort of like some of the people you meet at watchmakers' con­ was. The coil looked like a knife had run across it. I asked if ventions. someone had been in the watch and, of course, he answered, I asked him how he was doing and he told me, "Okay." He ''No." just got back from Mars, and while he was gone, his watch bat­ Being as he was larger than me, I didn't want to tell him he tery went out, so he needed anew one. I thought to myself, "You've was telling me a fib, so I explained what probably happened by always been a few volts shy," but, of course, I would never say telling him, "In stormy weather like we've been having recently, that to him. sometimes a surge of electricity caused by the lightning can enter After replacing his battery, I asked when he was going back a watch and cause the coil to actually explode. Ifyou look closely to Saturn. ''Probably not until after the first of the year," he an­ at yours, you can see that this is what happened." I held the watch swered. 'That's kind of a strange place," he said. "People there so he could see the coil, and then added, "You're lucky it didn't are very different. Do you know what their favorite food is?" I damage your wrist. I've seen this happen to people, and their shook my head no and he said, 'Their favorite food is liverwurst watch was melted right to their skin." and sardine sandwiches. And get this-they always put a slice of He looked at me kind of funny, but it was too late for him to onion on it!" D

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Horological Times/September 1994 13 Waterproof & Water-Resistant Watches Part 11, Condensation

A paradox in watch cases: A single tiny leak is more apt to produce condensation than several larger ones.

By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC

wo out of every three questions regarding the water the changes in pressure and weather. If the leak is minute, T protecting of watches concern themselves with con­ the pressure will exert its full force at the "pinhole," and densation under the crystal. Some watchmakers claim that will continue until the inside pressure is equalized with new water-protected watches show condensation. Other the outside pressure. (An interesting experiment concerned watches showing condensation were those recently re­ with this will be explained later.) If the case is very leaky, paired. Still other watchmakers complain about conden­ the pressure will equalize rapidly without concentrated sation only during warm, humid weather. force. This can be likened to a water pistol with a tiny Among the many questions asked are: Can a perfectly ejection hole. Only slight pressure is needed to send a long, water-protected case show condensation? If watches that thin stream. If the pistol should have a large hole or nu­ show condensation are of water-protected design but leaky, merous leaks, the same pressure produces no apparent then why should cases that are ordinary, nonwater-pro­ force. The air (pressure) escapes or enters without appar­ tected types be free from condensation? Does condensa­ ent force or opposition, while if the leak is minute, all of tion prove that the case is not "waterproof?" What causes the pressure must exit at this one spot. condensation? When is it most likely to form? How do To get back to our leaky watch case, as it breathes, it you prevent it? If condensation shortly disappears, should will push out the atmosphere as well as have atmosphere it be ignored? Can condensation be caused or induced by pushed into it, or be apparently sucked into the case. Should locking in humid air during casing? When is the best time some moisture suddenly wet the leaky spots and the pres­ and under what conditions should the movement be cased sure outside the case rise, the moisture or wetness would to prevent condensation? These and many other questions immediately be pushed into the case through the minute crevices, are constantly being asked by the watchmaker and jew­ much like the squirt gun mentioned earlier but in reverse. eler who must service and sell these watches. A slightly leaky case warmed on the wrist has more To understand more about condensation, we should pressure than the surrounding outside air. If cool water or review our know ledge of atmospheric pressure. Air has perspiration should wet the case, this would tend to cool weight just like anything else. At sea level, air pressure the case (by its own temperature as well as by evapora­ (due to its weight) averages fifteen pounds per square inch; tion), causing the air inside the case to contract with a some days it weighs more and some days it is lighter. When corresponding lowering of pressure. This would cause the we assemble a watch movement and then enclose it in a air surrounding the case to enter, pushing any moisture or "waterproof' case, we pack into the case the prevailing liquid with it. pressure and weather. What happens to this moisture to cause it to become If the case is not airtight, the pressure in the case will vapor and condense as droplets on the underside of the equal, for the time being, the pressure outside of the case, crystal? Warm air rises; cold air, being heavier, drops. and no change will take place. Should the barometer show When a watch is worn on the wrist (see Figure 74), the a drop in pressure, however, the air in the leaky case will warmest spot on the watch is the back of the case in con­ exert a greater pressure than the surrounding air outside, tact with the skin. Numerous tests have shown that this is and this will cause the extra air packed into the case to most always measured at 92°F. This causes the warmed push out through the leaky spots in the case. moisture in the watch to move around by convection as vapor. This vapor moves until it strikes the crystal, which Leaky Watches "Breathe" measures 81 °F. The crystal, being further from the warm When the weather changes again and the atmospheric wrist, is colder (see Figure 75). Furthermore, it is made of pn.:~~ure becomes grrntcr than before, air will now push glass or plastic, a poor conductor of heat, and does not into the case. Thus a leaky case actually "breathes" with change temperature very rapidly.

14 Horological Times/September 1994 81°F 92°F 68°F'• At Back of Room Crystal Case Temperature

Figure 74. Uneven temperatures to which a watch is Figure 75. Crystal chills the air within the watch that has exposed cause condensation when the watch has a small been warmed by wrist contact, causing vapor to condense leak. as in the area indicated by arrow.

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Horological Times/September 1994 15 As this vapor strikes the crystal, which is 11°F cooler Condensation Experiments than the bottom of the case, it suddenly chills, and con­ Is it possible to lock moisture into an air-tight case denses into tiny droplets that appear as condensation. This during casing so that visible condensation will take place? action is similar to warm breath striking a cooler surface An affirmative answer can be only a theoretical one, such as a pane of glass or metal. The entire process can be but in actual practice, the answer is no. Experiments have likened as well to the grass becoming wet in the morning, been conducted by many, including this writer, in which and it results from the dew point being reached thus: Warm watches were purposely cased during 100% humidity and air can hold more moisture than cold air. During the day in warm conditions. Efforts to induce visible condensa­ when the grass and earth are warmed by the sun, the tion in perfectly good water-protected cases were unsuc­ warmed air may hold much more moisture in suspension. cessful. To understand this better, we must acquaint our­ When the sun goes down at night, the earth rapidly loses selves again with the meaning of relative humidity, dew heat. This cools the air near the ground. If the air becomes point, air saturation, and moisture. cool enough, the relative humidity near the ground be­ Air can hold just so much moisture in suspension. comes 100%. In other words, the air becomes too cold to When too much moisture ladens the air, it becomes satu­ hold the amount of moisture it did while warm. Any fur­ rated. This can be likened to a sponge. It will hold just so ther drop in temperature will then cause this vapor to con­ much water; add another drop and it will drip. Now, the dense in the form of dew droplets and cling to the grass or amount of moisture that air can hold per cubic foot in­ ground. creases with the temperature. In other words, warm air At what temperature will water vapor condense? This can hold much more moisture than cold air. For example, answer depends on three things: 1) the prevailing tem­ the table below shows the amount of water (moisture) that perature, 2) the relative humidity, and 3) the amount of air can hold at 100% relative humidity at given tempera­ temperature drop. tures, measured in number of grains per cubic foot. For For example, suppose that the prevailing temperature comparison, 7000 grains are required to make up one is 70°F and the relative humidity is 51 %. This means that pound (of water); 1 grain equals .0648 grams; about 15 the air contains 4.08 grains of water per cubic foot (at the 112 grains equal one gram; 453.59 grams equal 1 lb.; 1 same temperature and with 100% humidity, it would be gram equals one cubic centimeter of water (volume). able to hold 7.98 grains of water). If the temperature is The air isn't always saturated with all the water vapor lowered to 50°F, the same air, now chilled, will not be it can hold. At about 70°F, if the air contains 4 grains of able to hold so much moisture, and the relative humidity water vapor per cubic foot, the air is then only 50% satu­ will then become 100% (since the air at 50°F can hold rated, and its relative humidity is 50%. If the air contains only 4.08 grains of water in suspension). Any further low­ only 2 grains per cubic foot at this temperature, we say ering of the temperature will cause condensation in the the relative humidity is 25%. form of dew, fog or rain. When moisture is in a watch Examine the table and notice how much more water case, condensation will not appear unless the temperature vapor the air can hold at 100°F than at 10°F. Now suppose drops to the dew point. Usually this takes place when the it is a rather warm day; the temperature is about 76°F, and warmed, moist air strikes the cooler crystal. it is showering steadily. In other words, the air is saturated at 100% humidity. With this condition, the sheltered air thus holds about 10 grains of water vapor per cubic foot, or about 1/4cu. in. of water. The watchmaker cases a wa­ GRAINS OF WATER VAPOR PER CUBIC FOOT lOF AIRJ ter-protected watch during this condition. Will the crystal THAT CAN BE HELD IN AIR AT GIVEN TEMPERATURES later fog with condensation with all this water vapor locked (FAHRENHEIT) into it? Let us see. While there are 10 grains of water va­ Degrees F Grains per cu. ft. por per cubic foot in this prevailing weather condition, how much water vapor is in the small, free area of a watch? 10...... 78 There are 1728 cubic inches in a cubic foot. The larg­ 20 .... ' ... 1.24 est wrist watch case does not allow more than 1/8 of one 30 ...... 1.94 cubic inch of air space, a most generous estimate. There­ 40. '' 2.85 fore, to find out how much water vapor is contained in the 50. ' .. ' . . . 4.08 occupied watch case, we must divide the 10 grains (per 60 ...... 5.75 cubic foot) by 13,824 (1728 x 1/8" = 13,824). Thus we get 70 ...... 7.98 only .00072 grains (or .000046 grams) of water vapor in the watch case. Condensed into one spot or as a droplet of 80 ...... 10.93 water, it would measure about .0469 cu. mm. This is not 90 ...... 14.70 nearly sufficient to form noticeable vapor or condensa­ 100 ...... 19.77 tion on the crystal. 16 Horological Times/September 1994 I have conducted many tests with water-protected case back and crystal could not produce condensation. It watches and many with "waterproof' cases that were not should be pointed out that no watch would ever be cased impervious. All of these tests and experiments proved that under these conditions; that fog is \\Qt '{Q.\)GI \:mt Iu\.h~I not enough moisture due to humidity could be locked in a actual moisture or water drops; and that fog is not the hu­ case to cause visible condensation except under the most midity of which we are talking, but a form of rain-small deliberate conditions. drops, true, but actual water nonetheless. Two other cases In one trial, a water-protected case of good repute was were tried in approximately the same manner and behaved first tested and found to be impervious to the full extent of much the same. the device (57 lbs. p.s.i. equaling about 135 feet in depth). In another experiment, a case that tested water resis­ A shower room was first preheated to 95°F and then filled tant was then made faulty by removing the crystal and with steam vapor. The watch case was opened and was slightly nicking its edge where it would rest in the bezel. heated in preparation for closing it in this room. The pur­ After the crystal was replaced, the spot leaked under a pose of preheating was so that when the watch was brought five-pound pressure in the testing chamber. Then a drop into the room, the airborne vapor should not condense as of water was deliberately placed on the edge of the crystal moisture on the case's surfaces. where the leak was known to be. This alone still did not The case was then closed in this room, locking vapor produce condensation. into the case. Next it was brought outside and allowed to The case was then mildly heated and allowed to cool cool to normal termperature. Later, the back of the case under observation. The drop of moisture vanished, but still was warmed, but there was no visible condensation. Then, no condensation appeared. When the case was placed while the back of the case was warm, the crystal was against the warm wrist, the crystal almost immediately brought against a cold window pane (with outside tem­ showed a neat disc of condensation. peratures in the low 40s) to cause a severe temperature change and sudden dew point. Condensation was then The Ink Test observed only by sighting across the crystal with a loupe. Another interesting experiment that was repeated After the case was cleaned and again closed under many times and that visibly demonstrates the cause of normal conditions, the same temperature changes between condensation is to take a proven water-protected case and

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Horological Times/September 1994 17 We hate to make mistakes... but, in the August remove the crown. Then heat the case to about 100°F. Next issue we did. replace the crown while the case is warm. Then, using a very sharp pointed drill, start to drill a hole through the In the article "A Torsion Drive for Your Milling crystal near its edge, using blue or black ink as the lubri­ Attachment", by Robert D. Porter which appeared cant. Proceed slowly so that the case will cool to room on pages 24 and 25 of the August 1994 issue, three photos obviously were incorrectly placed temperature. The drill should not pierce the crystal to its and identified. full diameter; rather, the initial hole should be the minute pinhole of the drill point. Of course, you cannot see when The proper sequence and identification for these the drill point has made its initial entry, because the ink photos is shown below. We regret this error and any concern it may have caused. conceals the drill point and view. However, you will know the moment this occurs, because you will suddenly see a spray of ink shooting into the case, and thus will continue for about two seconds. The spray will easily be seen, as it will deposit on the case bottom and inside edge of the hole. Pressing the case back on the palm will quickly cause con­ densation to appear on the crystal. Warming the same case and then actually dipping it into the ink so that the crystal hole is covered will produce the same effect. This demonstration shows that if a water­ Figure 5 protected case has a fine leak, it is more prone to have A sketch of the components that make up the drive. clinging moisture forced into the case than if the leak is large, permitting a more normal equalization of pressure to take place between the inside and outside of the case. If there are numerous leaks, or large ones, the equal­ ization is sudden and without resistance. If there is but one small leaky spot, the pressure concentrates at that spot with the result that the blocking moisture is forced into the case, whether the leak is at the crystal, crown, back or case pipe. This explains why ordinary watch cases do not show condensation. If condensation does appear on a "dress-type" of watch or ladies dress watch, you may be reasonably certain that the case fits very closely; it is al­ most, but not quite, water resistant. Moisture is induced into the watch case by contact with the leaky spot while the air inside is cooling and con­ tracting. Contraction results from the watch being removed from the warmed wrist or from moisture cooling the case by contact, evaporation (which cools), or both. Condensation is caused by the dew point being reached inside the case. This can be caused by the convection cur­ rents of the moving vapor striking a cooler part of the case, most often the poor heat-conducting crystal. Next month: more on condensation, its prevention and cure in both water-resistant and nonwater-resistant watches. 0

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18 Horological Times/September 1994 AWI Material Search Network

Editor's Note: This column is designed to work in conjunction with the AWI Movement Bank. If you can supply any of the items listed here, please send details to the Material Search Network. Do not send the items. Members re­ questing these items will be advised of their availability and will contact you directly.

WW3 Waltham 16's, Vanguard, 23 jewel, S#27,443,791 needs pallet fork com­ plete, part #4839

WW4 Longines 119 (backwind), Basic Model-Bayville 550 needs intermedi­ ate wheel, part #2031127; fourth wheel, part #220/352 We are the exclusive importer of extremely high WWS Valjoux 88, Moon Corrector factory number 2590, best fit number X2575 quality instrument clocks built in the former USSR Clocks currently available WW6 Universal 291, date wheel (part number unknown); date wheel jumper include: spring, part #X2226 • MiG 29 Instrument Clock • Red Army Tank Clock WWS Lecoultre 895, cannon pinion, part #31080; center wheel, part #30014; • ''Red October" Nuclear hour wheel, part #31046 Submarine Clock • Soyuz Cosmonaut Clock • ''Doomsday" (nuclear WW9 Rolex PA complete movement launch sequence) Clock. All clocks are WWlO Wittnauer Majestic, 8-day, 20 ligne/18 size, marked 218 on dial side of mechanically wound with pillar plate, needs center wheel (part number unknown) beautifully jeweled movements, sweep second hands, inset stopwatch and XX4 Font 186, 17 jewel, 10 1/2 ligne, complete movement other indicators, Russian inspection certificates, and XXS Longines-Wittnauer 13 ligne, serial #1401827 needs center wheel, part many additional features. #201/? Each clock is mounted on a handsome lucite base. Dealer prices available, but If you can supply any of these items, please contact: quantities limited.

AWI Material Search Network "As seen in Popular Science, Playboy, Robb Report and many other national AWI Central magazines." P.O. Box 11011 Cincinnati, OH 45211 Call Deutsche Optik If a member wants to use this service, there is a fee: $5.00 per part or the dona­ tion of a complete vintage watch movement per part. We prefer the donation of a 1.800.225.9407 vintage movement. Horological Times/September 1994 19 Technically Watches Antique Watch Restoration, Part CV Making Pallet Forks, Continued By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, MBHI ©1994 (All rights reserved by the author)

fter the arms have been formed on the pallet and the watch. If the pallet is in alignment, the fork will be the same A impulse faces shaped, the pallet is removed from the pallet distance from the banking on each side of the center line as the material. This is shown in Figure 1, View A. The broken lines escape wheel tooth escapes from a pallet arm. show the shape for the pallet and indicate where the pallet is sawed from the material. Note that ifthese pallets were mass produced, Tool for Holding the Pallet When Aligning the Lever they would be stamped out of the sheet steel already correctly Figure 2 shows a tool that can be made by the watchmaker shaped. The slots for the stones would need to be sawed, the for holding the pallet when aligning the lever with the pallet The holes drilled, and the pallet finished. When there is a need to pallet is held between stationary block "a" and moveable block make a pallet for an antique watch, the watchmaker must hand­ ''b" while the alignment is being done. Block "a" is shaped to fit make an individual pallet for the watch. the back of the pallet, and block "b" is shaped on its end to fit the After the pallet has been sawed from the pallet material and belly of the pallet. The pallet is held solidly between the two shaped, it is fitted and aligned on the fork. This is shown in Figure 1, View B. The steady pin holes "a" and "b" are not drilled until the pallet has been aligned on the fork or lever. To check the align­ ment, the pallet and lever are fastened together with the pallet arbor, then the unit is placed in the watch to be checked. The preliminary checking can be done in the depthing tool, but the final checking is done with the pallet and lever in place in the

I I

lI A I Figure 2. I ------t------,,, ' I 'I I I I /' ...... _... ______......

Figure 1. Figure 3. 20 Horological Times/September 1994 blocks by the pressure of screw "c" against the end of block ''b." the back side of the bed. The spindle of the milling attachment Screw "d" works in the slot of block "b," and holds block ''b" flat has been removed to allow the milling vise to be attached to the against the base of the tool. Tiris tool can be used before or after same block that held the spindle. The vise must be set squarely on the steady pins are in place. A brass punch is used against a comer the milling attachment. The milling attachment is set squarely on of the lever tail to shift the lever in relation to the pallet. A small the slide rest, and the top slide of the slide rest is set square with hannner is used to tap the punch. When checking the alignment, the bottom slide. The pallet is positioned in the vise and fastened ifthe fork reaches the banking before a tooth can escape, the lever securely in the jaws of the vise. Then the saw is centered with the must be shifted toward the opposite banking. pallet arm being sawed. After this arm has been sawed, the vise is After the lever has been aligned on the pallet, the steady pin raised or lowered to position the other pallet arm for sawing its holes are drilled to match the position of the steady pin holes slot. After the slots have been sawed, the pallet is hardened and already in the lever. If a new lever is also being made, the steady tempered to first blue. After this, the pallet stones are fitted to the pin holes in both the pallet and lever can be drilled at the same pallet slots. time, while they are together and in alignment. Fitting the Stones to the Pallet Slots Sawing the Slots for the Pallet Stones The pallet stones need to be made specially to fit the slots in Figure 3 shows the two positions of the circle saw for sawing the pallet arms. These should be made from ruby or sapphire. the slots for the pallet stones. The saw is chucked on an arbor The material for the stones can be a cap jewel or a pallet stone, or chuck, which allows it to run extremely true in the round and flat. slivers of ruby or sapphire that can be cut to shape. Ruby and The saw should have very fine teeth so it cuts smoothly. The sapphire pieces usually can be obtained from a lapidary supply pallet should be chucked solidly in a vise for cutting the slots. The house. The material should be ground to fit the slots in the pallet slots should be sawed in the exact center of the pallet arms, as arms very closely. The grinding is done with diamond laps. The shown in Figure 3. material is shellacked to a holder when shaping the stones. The Figure 4 shows the slots being sawed. The pallet is being laps are made of copper for cutting, and boxwood laps are used held in a small milling vise that is held on the gear cutting and for polishing. These are made by the watchmaker. Diamond com­ milling attachment. The milling attachment is fastened to the top pounds are bought from lapidary supply houses. These compounds slide of the slide rest. The top part of the slide rest has been swiv­ usually come in tubes or syringes; 3,000 mesh compound is for eled 180°, and the slide rest has been placed on the lathe bed from grinding, 8,000 mesh compound is for fine grinding, and 14,000

CHROnOS is devoted to the connoisseur, collec­ tor, designer and creator of watches and clocks. It will cover watches and clocks from the past and present, and even venture into the future. Our worldwide editorial staff will continuously report on new designs and technical innovations, pro­ files of prominent retailers, vintage and auction reports and highlight beautifully illustrated and described clocks and watches from the outstand­ ing collection of the American Clock & Watch Museum in Bristol, Connecticut, bringing the museum to the reader. You'll be proud to add CHROnos to your library

Send to: Name D Check or money order enclosed [~R~n~s D Charge my VISA or MasterCard Address Card No. Subscriptions Department City State 2403 Champa Street • Denver, CO 80205 Expiration Date Zip Code Country 0 $15.00 - 1 year (4 issues) Signature Foreign subscribers - add $8.00 (Required) Phone A portion of subscription money will be donated to the American Clock & Watch Museum. Horological Times/September 1994 21 mesh compound is for polishing. The compound is rolled into the smaller clamping screws, you could have only one clamping screw lap with ahard steel roller. The pallet stones should be large enough that is larger and placed in the center of the width of the jaws to come slightly past flush with the pallet arms, as shown in Fig­ between the two screws. The two screws farthest from the end of ure 5. The pallet stones are shellacked into place in the pallet the vise are used for leveling the vise jaw. When the jaws are level arms. The shellac will hold the stones better if their surfaces have and parallel, they hold the pallet more securely. a ground finish rather than a polished finish. Figure 6, View B shows a side view of the holder. The vise After the stones have been shellacked securely into the pallet end of the holder should be filed or milled down in thickness so arms, the stones are ground to size and shape, and then polished. the center of the edge of the pallet is exactly on center with the The stones are made flush with the surfaces of the pallet arms. center of the body of the holder as shown. Point "a," View B shows one of the clamping screws, and point "b," View B shows The Holder for the Pallet one of the leveling screws. Figure 6 shows a holder that can be made to hold the pallet while the grinding and polishing is done on the stones and acting Using the Pallet Holder surfaces of the pallet arms. View A shows a top view of the holder. Figure 7 shows how the pallet holder is used in grinding and Point "a" shows the vise end of the holder, point "b" shows the polishing the acting surfaces of the pallet The holder is used in body of the holder, and point "c" shows the knurled knob of the the slot of a V-block. The straight round body of the holder rests holder. The two screws nearest the end of the vise are used to in the slot of the V-block. There should be very little, if any, end clamp the pallet between the vise jaws. Instead of having two shake on the holder when it is in the slot of the V-block. The shoulders on the body of the holder should limit the end shake of the holder while in the notch of the V-block. The V-block has a wing on each side, which allows for circular slots and binding screws. This allows the V-block to be pivoted a few degrees to align the pallet surface exactly with the surface of the lap. The V­ block pivots around a center post that is pressed into the base plate. The base plate is fastened to the top of the slide rest. Two

Figure 4. b A B

Figure 5. Figure 6.

22 Horological Times/September 1994 screws go into a metal strip in the T-slot of the slide rest to bind the base plate to the slide rest. The base plate should be the proper thickness to raise the V-block to the proper height so the edge of the pallet will be on center with the lathe center.

Grinding and Polishing the R-Stone Locking Face Figure 7 shows the R-stone locking face being ground and polished. The position of the surface of the pallet in relation to the surface of the lap is adjusted by turning the slide rest screws. The light space between the pallet and the lap indicates if the two surfaces are parallel. When grinding and polishing the pallet sur­ faces, the holder is rotated slightly back and forth in the notch of the V-block so a slight convex surface is made on the pallet arm. This rotating motion can be limited by placing two pins in the end of the shoulder of the knurled knob so they bank against the V- block. Note that when the holder is used, it is held firmly in the notch of the V-block with the fingers of one hand, while the holder is rotated with the fingers of the other hand on the knurled knob. Three laps are needed: one for grinding, one for fine grind­ ing, and another for polishing and finishing. It would be best if each lap had its own arbor. The laps must be flat and run abso­ lutely true.

Grinding and Polishing the Impulse Face of the R-stone Figure 8 shows the impulse face of the R-stone being ground

Figure 7.

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Horological Times/September 1994 23 and polished. The holder is rotated back and forth in the notch of Polishing the Other Surfaces the V-block so the impulse face will be convex like the locking After the acting surfaces of the pallet have all been finished, face. The coarse lap is used first to grind the pallet stone just flush the back edge of the pallet is polished. This can be done by hold­ with the pallet arm. Next, the medium grit lap is used to prepare ing the pallet in a screw head finishing tool and grinding the back the surface for the fine grit lap used for polishing the surface. surfaces flat, first on a ground glass lap and then on a lead-tin lap. Note that it is very important to clean the pallet between the use of Oilstone paste is used on the glass lap to flatten the surface. Then, each lap. This should be done without disturbing the pallet in the diamantine is used on the lead-tin lap to polish the surfaces. holder. Cleaning the pallet thoroughly each time a different lap is Both sides of the pallet should be polished flat by using the used will prevent coarse particles of diamond from being trans­ two laps. After the pallet has been completely finished, it is thor­ ferred to the finer laps. Coarse particles will prevent a good polish oughly cleaned and then assembled to the lever and arbor. Then job. the unit is checked in the watch for proper functioning. "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next month. Grinding and Polishing the L-stone Locking Face Figure 9 shows the L-stone locking face being ground and Bibliography polished. This surface is in a very restricted area. It is more diffi­ Daniels, George. Watchmaking. London: Sotheby's Publications, cult to curve this face by rotating the holder. In this case, it is best 1985,pp. 160-162, 189. to strive for a flat polished surface with perhaps a slight round­ ness to the surface. Gazeley, W.J. Watch and Clock Making and Repairing. London: The impulse face of the L-stone side of the pallet is ground D. Nostrand Co., 1959, pp. 174-180. and polished in the same manner as the R-stone impulse face was. Gazeley, W.J. Clock and Watch Escapements. London: D. Van Nostrand Co., 1956, pp. 186-187, 282-286. D

Figure 8. Figure 9. 24 Horological Times/September 1994 And why I use it ...

By J.D. Olson

When nineteen hundred and forty-nine was fading away, and we were stepping into the second half of the twentieth century, I was living on the San Carlos Indian Reservation with my four brothers, a brand new baby sister, and my missionary parents.

For the Christmas that had just passed, a produce wholesaler had donated cartons full of apples and wooden crates full of oranges. The five little pale-faces of the Olson household, now living on Indian land, would each help to wrap one apple, one orange, a candy bar, and some popcorn for each of the little Apaches in the mission. As each of the orange crates was emptied, it was stacked out behind the church.

I can still remember the wonderful aroma of the oranges as we removed them from their crates, but I especially remember how the aroma stayed with the wooden crates after the oranges had been removed. I can also remember that when summer would come to the Arizona desert, the Olson boys would be out of school.

With no school to interfere with our creative genius, we would head for the pile of orange crates we knew would still be out behind the church. The wood that had been rubbed by the oranges had absorbed some of the oranges' oil, and was still in good condition. We would use this wood to make our toys. Some dam nice toys, I might add.

Since those orange crate days, I have sold millions of dollars worth of clocks. There is nothing nicer than a really fine clock mechanism, but I realize it has been the beautiful finish on their high quality cases that usually moved a family to purchase one of my special timepieces.

It was my childhood memory of wooden crates rubbed with oranges, and my desire to care for the really fine clocks that I have offered for sale, that led to the development of What-i-use. It is designed to penetrate into the wood, replacing the oils that time has re­ moved from your fine furniture. It is also blended to have a wonderful orange fragrance that makes it a pleasure to use. It has no silicone or solvents, and has a natural cleaner built right in. It leaves a beautiful finish, and it's not expensive. But best of all, it's ~·Ude.

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Horological Times/September 1994 25 Management Parts

By Fred S. Burckhardt

Store Policy store policy allows the store to operate in a fair and con­ Any impressions or attitudes the customer has about sistent manner. A careful study should be given when set­ your business is the result of the treatment they received. ting or revising any of the store's policies. This treatment is the result of the policies the manage­ Two areas that should be given careful consideration ment has chosen under which to operate the business. when setting policy are those of complaints and returns. As the manager, you must decide what type of busi­ ness you want to operate, and set the policies for manage­ Complaints ment and other employees to follow. No matter how long you have been in business, no Store policy could be defined as a rule of conduct un­ matter how hard you try to do everything to please your der which a store carries on its business operations. In this customers, no matter how hard you try to avoid anything manner, most inconsistencies and irregularities are elimi­ that will cause possible problems with your customers, nated so that everyone performs the same operation in the you'll still receive some complaints. same way. Some complaints can be handled by the sales staff, Store policies actually consist of policies that cover but there are some major complaints, or there are custom­ several areas: ers who feel the complaint should be directed to the store 1. Merchandise policies. Type and quality of merchan­ manager. Any time you, as a manager, receive a complaint, dise: how exclusive it should be and the style and fashion. you should make sure you give it your immediate atten­ 2. Pricing policies. Same price to all customers, com­ tion and investigate the cause. Basically, there are only a petitors' prices, income level of customers. few reasons for customer complaints. 3. Sales promotion policies. Aggressive type of policy, 1. The quality of merchandise. Sometimes this can lead heavy advertising, many sales. back to the buyer, who thought a certain line was good, 4. Employee policies. Policy in selecting, promoting, but found that the exceptional "value" was only because training and dealing with employees, raises, vacations, of the inferior merchandise. On the other hand, sometimes discounts and benefits. a manufacturer will put a line on the market, unaware of 5. General policies. Membership in trade and busi­ certain defects that may show up later on. ness groups; public education programs, lectures, and char­ 2. Improper handling by store personnel. There are ity drives all build goodwill and prestige of the store in times when a customer may think the service was not the community. prompt enough, or maybe it could have been a little more 6. Customer service policies. courteous. Once the store policies have been established, they Mistakes and carelessness on the part of the employee should remain flexible in case changes are necessary. For should be corrected as soon as possible. You should try to example, the economic conditions in the area, or the na­ minimize complaints about service through better train­ ture of the competition, could demand new ways of doing ing or supervision. business. Other reasons include change in buyers' habits, 3. Chronic complainers. Every business, at one time new products, new methods of retailing, changes in the or another, will experience this type of customer. They shopping area and business conditions. always feel they should have had better service, or the The whole personality of your business is the result merchandise didn't hold up the way they thought it should. of store policies. Customers respect and favor a store for This category also includes the customer who returns its policies. Many managers don't realize the importance every item purchased at the store with some minor ex­ of store policies. As consumers they will tum around and cuse. Usually this is after the item has been worn. There favor certain stores for their policies, but as managers they are times when it may be best to recommend they do their never give a second thought to their own. Remember, the shopping elsewhere!

26 Horological Times/September 1994 You, as manager, must try to handle all complaints as satisfactorily as possible, from both the store's and the r------,NOVELTY WATCHES FOR THE KIDS (OF ALL AGES) customer's point of view. If a customer feels the complaint Children's action watches 1or an)' age'. The l<.im1 e'lerjone hasn't been handled satisfactorily, he may start doing busi­ loves to wear and show off to their friends. Great for the grandchildren, as gag gifts, party-attention-getters, or just ness with another store and, worse, will tell his friends to own and wear as a conversation piece. Each watch has and they, too, may turn to another store. two functions; one reveals the watch display and the other activates it's sounds. No matter how tactfully you try to handle a complaint, there will still be those customers you will never be able to satisfy. Some people make a habit out of complaining. TANK WATCH Makes 8 different battle Sometimes their complaints may be justified, in which case sounds while the light on you should try to resolve them the best way possible. Once the end of the cannon flashes. resolved, try to find the cause and eliminate it, or at least 149389 ...... $5.50 each minimize the source of trouble.

Returns STEALTH FIGHTER Every business should have a policy on the handling WATCH of returned goods. It should spell out exactly what the store Makes gun and engine will do in the way of exchange, full refund, partial refund, sounds while a red light on the plane blinks. or no exchange or refund at all. 149390 ...... $5.50 each Customers should be made aware of what the store policy is so it will be unlikely to cause ill will if an item should be returned. Even then, there are some customers HELICOPTER WATCH who feel the store policy shouldn't apply to them. This is Makes fighting action when the manager should step forward and settle what­ sounds while the lights blink. ever disagreement may arise between the salesperson and 149443 •...... $5.50 each the customer. Every returned item costs the business money. The extra expense of restocking the item, the additional paper­ SPACE SHUTTLE work and handling, any other additional time spent, all WATCH add up to an increased cost of having that item in stock. Makes jet engine sounds while red lights in the pods There are times when returns should be accepted with­ blink. out any question: 149442 ...... $5.50 each 1. Unsatisfactory merchandise: defects, poor work- manship. 2. Misrepresentation. TRAIN WATCH Makes train engine sounds 3. High pressure selling. while lights blink. 4. Too liberal a return policy. 149441 ...... $5.50 each 5. When items are sold "on approval." It's doubtful that returns will ever stop completely. Watch is LCD digital for easy time reading. The movement runs It's the manager's job to see they are brought down to the on one 392 Eveready watch cell. Average life span is 6 months. barest minimum. A "no return" policy will cause you to The sound and display require two 392 Eveready cells, except 149441 which requires two 357 cells. Their life will depend on how lose customers. A policy that's too liberal will present the often the sound button is pushed. All watches are supplied with problem of too many returns. It's up to you to set a policy new cells but they are without wear guarantees. Additional cells are available from our stock. that will serve both you and the customer, so that each will be satisfied with the results. Keep in mind that these two areas are critical in deter­ mining how the customer feels about you and your store S.1LltRose~1nc. or shop. There are bound to be times when disagreements 'Worftlwitk 'Distributors to !lforo(ogists arise between customers and stores. It is then that the store '~;\IL??'~ is on trial. If you treat the customers fairly and equitably, they will regard the store more highly and you will in­ 3223 Yanceyville St., P.O. Box 21208 crease the store's goodwill. Greensboro, N.C., 27420,USA D Phone: (910) 621-1936 Fax Number: 1-800-537-4513

L------~Horological Times/September 1994 27 The Novice Watchmaker

On Short Jobs and Expansion Bands

By David Christianson

A beginning watch repairman fresh out of school can spend years learning by trial and error the techniques that can be learned in a very short time from a seasoned master. He can waste a considerable amount of time and materials trying to learn that which would take only minutes of explanation from one who already knows. This is the value of an apprenticeship and the reason behind this new series of articles. To a master (or mentor), an apprentice is a tremendous losing proposition. The master's valuable time is taken up trying to teach techniques and procedures that he could do almost automatically and effortlessly himself. So why should he burden himself with an apprentice? The apprentice, fresh from school and filled with all kinds of assorted bits of knowledge and skill, is desperately in need of beginning his career, getting on with his life, and producing an income for himself. So why should he burden himself with an apprenticeship that would pay little or nothing? The answer for the apprentice we've already given-he desperately needs the techniques (tricks of the trade, if you will) or he'll flounder, barely getting by as he literally pays himself to learn through lost time, lost materials and lost clientele. The answer for the master is a bit more altruistic, unless he happens to have a flourishing trade and will be able to employ this apprentice as a skilled technician on his own staff. Unfortunately most of us "masters" don't have that much room on our staff to add another and another. We've got enough work to keep ourselves quite busy, but not enough to add another to the payroll. To the master who has the desire to share his skills comes the more intangible but greatly fulfilling knowledge that he has: 1) started a young watch repainnan on the road to a fulfilling career, and 2) helped materially to broaden and promote the field of watch repair. Granted, these are idealistic goals, but as accomplished craftsmen, we owe it to ourselves and our craft to pass our skills on to the next generation. Otherwise, there won't be a next generation to carry on.

Helping to Pay Your Way us as our lawyer's is to her. You can no more expect a free Probably a good half of your time at the bench is spent service from your family physician than your client can doing "short jobs" or minor repairs: band adjusting, cell expect a free service from you. replacement, crystals, crowns, stems, gaskets and so forth. As an apprentice, you can make yourself more valu­ It can be a very well-paying proposition if you charge as able to your mentor by being able to perform "short jobs" much per minute to size a watch band or fit a stem as you quickly and easily. charge per minute to fit a balance staff or overhaul a move­ I'll begin with metal watch bands and move on to ment. Fortunately for your customers, these short jobs take leather bands, spring bars, cases, crystals, crowns, stems only a few minutes to complete, so the customers pay what and case backs before I get into the mechanics of the watch seems like a relatively small fee. itself. These subjects appear to receive little or no treat­ Years ago, the watch repairman tended to give these ment in the schools or in the literature, yet are so impor­ services away. It seemed so simple to him to shorten a tant to the everyday life of the watch repairman. watch band, that he often said, "There's no charge." He was thinking all the time that he was doing his customer a The Expansion Band favor, or doing his employer a favor (thinking that the Back in the middle part of this century, the Speidel customer would be back to buy a thousand dollar diamond). Company acquired and vigorously promoted a German It took us a long time to realize that a free repair doesn't patent for an expansion watch band. The band was made necessarily extend the customer's loyalty to future pur­ with a repeating series of leaf springs and interlocking U­ •;:Jm.:sru:s. shaped clips that made the band extremely flexible and Most of us, after years of experience, have come to easy to assemble and disassemble. The resulting product realize that our time and knowledge is just as valuable to became know as the Speidel Twist-o-flex® patented watch 28 Horological Times/September 1994 band, and it is still a very significant part of the replace­ ment band market. In fact, Speidel markets their bands under various names other than their own. There are sev­ eral variations of the Speidel patent on the market, but all the bands adjust in nearly the same manner. Prior to Speidel, the "scissor" band was the primary expansion band on the market (see Figure 1). This scissor band has springs encased into the bottom links, which are then riveted to the top links and pivot on these rivets. These rivets commonly tear out of their top links, making repair difficult at best. Most clients don't want to pay for the extended time it takes for this repair, if it can be done at all. And most repairmen don't want to attempt such re­ pairs because they give marginal results at best. Other bands that resembled a tightly coiled spring, and a few telescoping versions that consisted of interlinked Figure 2. tubes with internal springs, were common at one time, but are rarely encountered today. And if they do come in for repair, prudence suggests that they be replaced. The Speidel and its variants consist of a series of bot­ tom and top rectangular, tube-like links holding two leaf springs and four U-shaped clips per link, with a decora­ tive top cap clipped to the top link (see Figure 2). The ends of the top cap on one link, and the ends of the bottom link of an adjoining link, can be levered open (see Figure 3), and the connected U-clip slid out with a pair of twee­ zers (see Figure 4) and separated (see Drawing A).

Figure 3.

Drawing A.

Figure 1. Figure 4. Horological Times/September 1994 29 ,..

Drawing B.

A quicker way is to open the end of a top cap on one the two ends together. This is the tricky part and takes a side, and the end of an adjoining bottom link on the oppo­ bit of practice, but becomes second nature after a couple site side (see Drawing B), and then slide the two halves of successes. This trick doesn't work as easily with the apart (see Figures 5 and 6). narrow lady's version, but with a little bit more practice, it To put back together, line up the exposed U-clips. Be too becomes quite simple. sure the clip on the bottom link inserts above the leaf spring A word about opening and closing the ends of these in the top cap, and the U-clip from the opposite side in­ links: on Speidel bands, the end flaps are quite soft and serts below the leaf spring of the bottom link, and slide deform easily. On many of the variations, the flaps are

Figure 5. Figure 7.

Figure 6. Figure 8. 30 Horological Times/September 1994 quite hard and don't bend easily at all. Slip a thin knife blade behind the flat end and, while twisting outward, continue pushing toward the fold in the cap end flap (hinge). (See Drawing C.) This will give an even, undistorted hinge and flap. When closing, rest the blade on the hinge and rotate downward (see Figure 7) while applying even pressure against the hinge area (see Drawing D). This will keep the Drawing C. flap from deforming. You'll want to support the opposite side on your bench top. When finished closing both sides, place the band between the jaws of a small, smooth-jawed bench vise and close the jaws upon the edges of the band to finish closing the end flaps (see Figure 8), giving an even closure with the rest of the band. Determining the number of links to remove is a mat­ ter of experienced guesswork. Generally speaking, hold Drawing D. the band around the client's wrist and count the number of links that "bunch up." (See Drawing E.) Subtract two to account for the space connecting the two sides, and remove the rest. In the example shown, seven links bunch up away from the wrist. Subtract two and this leaves five for removal. Open the band up, count out five links and open up the band again at this point, slide out the five links, and rejoin the two halves. A properly fitted expansion band should have no gaps between the links when placed on the wrist. If there are gaps between the links, add extra links. Otherwise the band will bind the wrist, pull hair, and generally be quite un­ comfortable for the wearer. After a few years of service, these expansion bands begin to weaken and gaps appear between the links. Dirt and perspiration aggravate this deterioration and shorten the life of the band. When an older band becomes loose on the client's wrist, the removal of a couple of links will extend the usefulness of the band for another year or so, but after that, the links have usually all become so weak­ ened that replacing it with a new band is the best answer. Drawing E. 0

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Horological Times/September 1994 31 Pickle Barrel Jewelry Crafting and Repair Measuring and Weighing Jewelry Stones

By Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

n doing jewelry crafting and repair, we must learn how I to determine sizes and shapes so we can order replace- 1..~~~-~....;;:~-:--T__;;;:y...-+~ +-a ment or other stones and settings, or can handcraft jew­ elry pieces. Diamonds and colored stones are two differ­ ent categories and generally are handled differently.

WEIGHT MILLIMETER (In Diamond) SIZE .005 ct 1.15 mm 1.25 mm 01 ct 1.35 mm 1.45 mm .02d 1.55 mm 1.70 mm .03 ct 1.90 mm .04ct 2.10 mm .05 ct 2.30mm CUTTtNe GUIDE 2.SOmm .06ct 2.1omm .07ct 2.90mm .10d 3.10 mm .12d 3.30mm .fSct 3.SOmm TOO DEEP tOEAl PltOPOltTIONS TOO TMIN .18d 3.70 mm .21 ct 3.90mm .23ct 4.10 mm .27ct 4.30mm .33 ct 4.50 mm Figure 1. 50 ct 5.13 mm .75ct 5.88mm 1.00ct 6.45mm 1.25 ct 6.90mm 1.50 ct 7.40mm 2.00 ct 8.20mm 2.50ct 9.00mm 3.00 ct 9.50mm 4.00 ct o.oo m WEIGHTS (ENLARGED) ELECTRONIC SCALE TO SHOW SHAPES BALANCE SCALE c 1. Figure 2. Diamond scales Figure 3. Round diamond conversion-millimeters to carats 32 Horological Times/September 1994 Diamonds have these balance scales in a glass-enclosed case, because Diamonds are sold by weight in carats or fractions of their accuracy can be affected even by air circulation in a carats. One carat is broken down into hundredths called points. room. For small stores or re9air shops, a. porti\blc -&c:filc fua.\ One hundred points equal one carat, fifty points equal one­ can be carried or stored in a small case containing compart­ half carat, and twenty-five points equal one-quarter carat. I ments for the weights is usually adequate. Electronic scales have seen round diamonds that are cut as small as one quar­ with a digital readout are available; a weight reading can be ter of a point, which equals 1/400 of a carat. quickly obtained simply by placing the diamond on the scale For repair, I stock diamonds that are small and used mostly (see Figure 2). The electronic scales I have observed have a for replacement: 1/2 point, 3/4 point, 1 point, 2 point, 3 point, capacity of from one point to fifty carats. 4 point, and 5 point. These are all cut stones and, until recent In most cases, the small shop or store deals mostly in years, were single-cut. Now most diamonds down to 2 points mounted diamonds, so they have very little use for such so­ are available in full-cut stones. These small stones are called phisticated scales. So, the balance type is probably the most melee. Round diamonds have an ideal proportion regardless practical for small stores or shops. It has been my experience of the diameter, with thickness being from top table to girdle that electronic devices require battery replacements and re­ approximately one third, and from the girdle to the culet about pair maintenance, while the balance type scales are mainte­ two thirds, with the top table being about one-half the diam­ nance free. eter of the face of the round diamond. (See Figure 1: A is the We know that weighing is the accurate way to determine girdle, Bis the top table, and C is the culet.) the weight of diamonds, but it is rarely practical to remove a Some diamonds are cut thinner and some thicker. This diamond from its setting to determine its weight. So we must affects the accuracy of calculating the weight of diamonds learn how to determine an approximate weight by measuring when using the diameter as a factor. The correct way to deter­ and calculating. The comparison table shown in Figure 3 lists mine the carat weight of a diamond is to weigh it. The old the weights of round diamonds from 1/2 point to five carats method for weighing diamonds is to use a set of balance scales in one column, and millimeter sizes of the diameter in the made especially for weighing diamonds, which are delicate other column. This is a handy reference, for the diameter can and extremely sensitive. They come with weights to weigh be measured in millimeters and fractions, and directly across diamonds from one point to ten carats (see Figure 2). Dia­ in the other column is the approximate carat weight of the mond suppliers and shops handling loose diamonds usually diamond .

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Horological Times/September 1994 33 Due to the thickness and proportion of the cut, the culet will not protrude through the bottom of it. this chart can be fairly accurate only if the diamond Settings can be found in catalogs to fit most sizes of is cut in an ideal proportion. Figure 1 shows a side round diamonds, as well as fancy cut ones. view and a top view of an ideal cut diamond, along Thus, your know-how in measuring stones is the with illustrations to compare too thick, too thin, and key to being able to order the proper size stones and ideal proportions. It is easy to see how much heavier settings. When setting a customer's diamonds, you a thick cut, and how much lighter a thin cut, can be usually have to remove them from an old setting. At compared to an ideal proportioned cut. this time, if requested by the customer, the stone can There are other ways of calculating the weights be weighed and the weight recorded on the repair of diamonds. I can think of three systems for calcu­ envelope. Before weighing the stone, of course, it lating diamond weights without removing the stones should be cleaned. I do this in the ultrasonic jewelry from the settings. They are the Moe Gauge, Jo-Di cleaner using a small mesh basket that will retain a gauge, and the leveridge gauge. Widths and depths, diamond as small as a half point. The diamonds as well as diameters, are measured with a caliper should be rinsed well and dried before weighing to similar to the one shown in Figure 4-d, and checked obtain an absolute correct carat weight. Since this with the chart tables that give a nearly accurate procedure requires time, you should be compensated weight of the diamond. for it. If not requested by the customer, skip these Figure 4-a shows a vernier caliper, which is prob­ steps and use measurements. ably more accurate than the Baker Gauge (Figure 4- b) or the K&B. You would use gauge 4-c for mea­ Colored Stones suring round stones, because the other two rely upon Colored stones, in many cases, are handled dif­ your skill to sight the round balls or hole being held ferently than diamonds. There are probably three cat­ over the stone. The vernier caliper will also mea­ egories of colored stones. They include the softer sure accurately the diameters, lengths and widths of clear crystal stones (which would be genuine stones), these shaped stones. It also can measure inside di­ synthetic stones, and glass stones. Genuine stones, ameters and depths with the protrusion on the end even though using carat weight as a basis for deter­ opposite the jaws. The caliper in Figure 4-d is the mining value, are usually priced in catalogs using only way of measuring the depth of a set stone. It millimeter sizes. Even though this is true, most genu­ can also measure the stone's thicknesses in difficult­ ine stones, even rounds, vary considerably in shapes, to-reach places. proportions and thickness of girdle. About the only Diamonds in pear, marquise, oval, emerald, and way to find a near accurate weight of these stones is heart-shaped cuts can be roughly estimated for carat to weigh them on a scale. weight using a chart (see Figure 5). The most popu­ Not being a gemologist, I will not go into the lar shapes of diamonds can be judged by measuring specifics of converting the measurements of colored the length and width in millimeters or fractions, then stones into carat weight. The jewelry craftsman, in referring to the chart. To the person setting a stone, the carat weight is not especially important, but the things to be con­ I !Wart ~ ~ ~ s:'. ~ I sidered are: diameter at the girdle, thickness of the llZd ! ,. 03 Cl I I girdle, thickness from the girdle to culet (bottom), C1 - l""".m"" J I ,_07ct and the depth of the setting in which the diamond I 1Qct I I will be set. A setting should have enough depth so 12CI t~- I l -'-~5CI .::!O Cl 2$CI ~wct I ~ -40d 45 Cl 50c:t ...... I 8><4- .,,. .... ~,.5..,,. l ~d I 65 C1 . ... ___ ,_ rs e1 ···- l!..!".k"C5 ... 7•:;- I a .. u ... 7><.5- I !><51&1 11h<5 ... 7.SJMU : ~~, .2S 1'7- I~>i8'!.IAI 9.5KGI;,- Cl ,.,. .... 1:5';7£&.iio..i' 11•11 ... IO>l\ handcrafted. the bottom and domed on the top. The chart in Fig­ Figure 6 shows a formula for calculating carat ure 6 shows a formula for finding the approximate weight of colored stones from length, width, depth weight of these stones by millimeter measurements. and specific gravity. Using this formula will give an There are many stones that are flat on top and bot­ approximate weight. To use it, you need a source or tom. Onyx is available in flat or cabochon, drilled method of obtaining the specific gravity. The mea­ or undrilled. Shell cameo, tiger eye cameo, cats eye, surements in millimeters can be done with the same hematite intaglio, opal and many other stones are measuring tools as are used in measuring diamonds, usually cut with flat bottoms, and are usually listed namely the vernier caliper shown in Figure 4-a, and by millimeter sizes and priced by these sizes. the degree gauge or depth caliper in Figure 4-d. Major stones (gem quality) are listed both by mil­ Some of the stone houses have listings in their limeter sizes and carat weight. Many of these are not catalogs showing specific gravity of stones. For all standard sizes, so they would have to be actually practical purposes, length, width, depth for fancy cut weighed to get an accurate weight. For appraisals, stones, and diameter and depth for round cut stones, the measuring and calculating by formula saves the are adequate for the working jewelry craftsman or removal and resetting the stones. repairman ordering stones and settings. The knowl­ Unless manufacturing costume jewelry, foil back edge for correctly identifying and evaluating colored glass stones (rhinestones) usually are purchased by stones probably would require a GIA course or assortments; however, in a few cases, I have ordered courses in colored stones, which would be of unlim­ from a manufacturer of costume jewelry some of ited value to the jewelry appraiser or people doing a these stones by the dozen of a given size and color. high volume in colored stone sales. Assortments of rhinestones usually are available Fancy cut stones have a standard of sizes for the from material suppliers, but genuine stones in me­ different shaped stones (see Figure 7), and settings lee sizes are available from stone houses in repair in different types are usually available. Findings lots of 4 to 20 carats. The cost is around $100 de­ catalogs list the sizes of the different settings that pending, of course, on the value of the stones. These are available, and for fancy cut stones, they list them repair lots are not uniform in size. Some stones are in millimeters. Even though the chart in Figure 7 thick, some thin, and some with thick or thin girdles. shows 1Omm x 8mm being the largest, there are many They do well for making repair replacements, and a larger. I found in one catalog an oval listed at 22 x few jobs will pay for the assortment. 16. Pearls are sold by metric measurement. I have Settings for round stones are often listed in the not ever heard of them being referred to by weight. catalogs in diamond carat sizes, so it is necessary to They are listed in catalogs started at 2/lOOmm up to use a round stone size comparison table (see Figure 9mm, even in 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 sizes. They are of­ 3) when ordering settings. Round stones other than fered half drilled or full drilled. I am sure undrilled diamonds are always listed in millimeter sizes, some pearls could be supplied if ordered. Larger sizes also even as small as 1mm in diameter. In a diamond, this are available, and prices will be quoted upon request. would be less than 11100 carat. Since some stones The next article will deal with fluxes and pickling so­ are heavier than others, this chart would be highly lutions-their importance, necessity and limitations. D

OVAL EMEFlALD PU.A MAAOUISI! RECTAHGUUll (_) C) APPROX/MA TE CARAT WEIGHT FORMULAS FOR COLORED MORe tOd (all measurements in millimetslS; S.G. ; specific gravity) ("~ ... 012Jll ROUND: diameter x diame1er x depth x S G. x .0()18 ... we+ght ~) h7 T Q OVAL: ( Length + wid!h) X ( Length + width) x depth x S.G. x .0020 ~ carat weight h5 1 2 2 0 0 0 11"6 I Q 10JIS 0 EMERALD: Length x width x depth x S G. x .0025 = car8' weight 1d RECTANGULAR: Length x width x depth x S.G x 0026 • caratwelgllt D Q 7 D .c.- 0 SQUARE: Length x wklth >: deplh x S,G x .0023 carat weight ~ g .... UARQUISE: Length " width .x depth ' S.G x .0016 - carat weight D Ii. Q 0 .... PEAR: Length x width x depth x S G. x .CXt18 "" carat weight 5:13 llt3 . ~5,.3 D D HON: Lenath x wiath x death x S G x 0026 =- carat wetgh1 Ssl 11;.:r.'1 Figure 6. Figure 7. Horological Times/September 1994 35 A Peaceful Invasion As reported in WOSTEP Happenings, No. 13; Josiane Simonin, Editor

WATCHMAKERS OF SWITZERLAND TRAINING AND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAM CENTRE DE PERFECTIONNEMENT HORLOGER

Although it also took place on June 6, the in­ During factory visits, the companies showed vasion of WOSTEP, unlike the D-Day invasion their own particular methods of training so the of Normandy commemorated the same day, was instructors were able to obtain a comprehensive peaceful. The instructors from the first eleven and stimulating picture of how this activity is watchmaking schools selected under the world­ conducted in different sectors and at different wide program of assistance to watchmaking levels in our industry. They now return to their schools arrived in Neuchatel with bright smiles respective countries with renewed enthusiasm to on their faces and no hostile intentions! The launch the new program of teaching at their event was also unique because it was the first schools. An important by-product of their time time watchmaking instructors from three differ­ in Switzerland was the opportunity to compare ent continents (North America, Europe and Aus­ the situation of those working in the profession tralia) had ever met together for a common pur­ in their respective countries, and to discuss ways pose: in this case primarily to learn, during their of improving it. Naturally they were also able to five-week stay, how to implement the Swiss pass on knowledge and tips, as well as talk about 2,700-hour program of watchmaker training de­ their own individual worries and expectations. veloped by WOSTEP and sponsored by leading firms in the industry. Major Step Forward The five-week visit of the instructors was an Five Weeks of Intensive Study important event for WOSTEP and the Swiss The five weeks the instructors spent in Swit­ watch industry, and one that was reported in the zerland were divided between sessions in press, as it marked the first major step forward WOSTEP and visits to watch factories and sup­ in the ambitious program to assist eighty schools pliers, including Audemars Piguet, ETA, Rolex, of watchmaking around the world in the next five Breitling, IFHH (Cartier, Baume & Mercier and years. The five weeks were preceded by numer­ Piguet) and Lemania, as well as Bergeon, ous contacts, on the spot at schools internation­ Comadur and Nivarox. ally and with representatives from schools when At WOSTEP they studied in detail the pro­ visiting us in Neuchatel. We have been greatly gram developed by WOSTEP and its methods of encouraged by their enthusiasm and willingness teaching watchmaking. They followed a "Train­ to collaborate with the efforts we are all invest­ the-trainers" course involving instruction in how ing with the ultimate objective of raising the to train, and carried out practical training and standards of watchmaker training and after-sales communications exercises. They also had the service worldwide. 0 opportunity to spend some time at the watchmak­ ing schools at La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Sentier in the Vallee de Joux.

36 Horological Times/September 1994 A train-the-trainer course at WOSTEP with professionals from all over the world.

Standing, from left to right: R. Frene, president of WOSTEP; Tony Knorr*, North Seattle Community College, USA; M. Kalf, De Vakschool Amsterdam, Holland; R. Plourde*, Ecole Nationale d'Horlogerie, Trois-Rivieres, Canada; P. Thurlby, University of Central England, Birmingham; J. Murphy, City College Manchester, England; J. Maher*, Joseph Bulova School, Woodside, USA; W. Jarokowsky*, Oklahoma State University, Okmulgee, USA; T. Psaras, watch repairing school of OAED, Athens, Greece; B. von Wyl, WOSTEP instructor; T. Firth, Sydney Institute of Technology, Australia; H. Wideberg, WOSTEP instructor; A. Simonin, director of WOSTEP. Kneeling at the front: J. Pollanen, Kelloseppakoulu, Espoo, Fin­ land; Brendan O'Brien, Irish Swiss Institute of Horology, Blanchardstown, Ireland. * denotes instructors of AWI REC member schools Horological Times/September 1994 37 A Double Fusee Cuckoo Clock

By David J. Carlson simple fan regulator for an eight-day clock. Without the fusee, the cuckoo would run much too fast at full wind, It was a welcome break from routine when this won­ and run very slowly toward the end of the winding. Spring­ derfully carved Black Forest cuckoo clock shown in Fig­ drive cuckoos are typically limited to a thirty-hour run time. ure 1 was brought in for repair. The clock was a wall hanger, but instead of weights there were winding holes at Takedown the 9 and 3 o'clock positions in the center disk of the The front mantel, a one-piece carving, and the back wooden dial. Removing the back cover revealed a double cover were held in place by several hooks and eyes as fusee wooden plate eight-day movement circa 1830-1840. shown in Figure 2. Several problems were immediately apparent: fusee cable Several of the fasteners were loose or broken and re­ missing, cuckoo whistles in shambles, broken movement quired replacement. The C clamps visible in Figure 2 se­ mounting, suspect spring barrel click, and the cuckoo doors cure two aluminum bars to the workbench. The bars ex­ and pendulum were missing. tend beneath the clock to support it while the carved man­ Before considering the restoration of the clock, area­ tel was removed. This support method is useful in many sonable question to ask is why the complication of the repair situations. fusee? The importance of the fusee is usually associated The movement is held in the case by two "toe nails" with the time train where it regulates the power from the driven into the movement supports at the rear of the case, spring drive to give the equivalent performance of a weight. and two screws on the front of the case near the top of the The time train in this cuckoo clock shares the same ben­ movement. The movement was removed and set aside. efit, but the more important use by far is in the strike train. My personal preference is to do any casework first to as­ The power required in the cuckoo strike train is compara­ sure adequate time for glue joints to bond, and to remove tively high and cannot be adequately compensated by a the temptation of rushing the case repair.

Figure 1. Double Fusee Cuckoo Clock. Figure 2. Hook and Eye Latches. 38 Horological Times/September 1994 A.Double Fusee Cuckoo Clock

Case Repair tersunk at each position. The screw head was turned down As received, the case had three problems: one of the about twenty percent to reduce the visibility of the screw wooden movement supports was broken away from the head. The screws were tightened a little at a time over case, the wooden dial assembly had a substantial warp, several days to prevent cracking the dial. The tightening and the back cover was cracked and poorly patched. process was stopped when the interference with the hands The movement supports and the bottom door are was eliminated. The numbers were restored. It was a judg­ shown in Figure 3. The door enables starting the pendu­ ment call to use only two screws. It may have been less lum when the clock is hung on the wall. As received, the risky to use four screws, one each at the 11, 1, 5 and 7 left movement support was broken away from the case o'clock positions. and had to be glued back in place. To provide a good glue The back cover was a hodgepodge of nailed-on bond, it was essential to remove the glue from both the patches. The patches were removed and the cracks filled case and the support piece. A useful bench method to re­ with PC-7, a two-part gray epoxy filler that has good move the glue is to use a butane mini-torch and the edge strength and can be colored after it cures. The integrity of of a file or knife to scrape away the glue as it softens. the hole in the back cover was assured by fabricating a Good ventilation is desirable because a pungent odor is .050" hard brass patch plate that was fastened to the back produced. cover with screws. The patch plate was masked and painted The dial repair is shown in Figure 4. The wooden dial black. The repaired back cover is shown in Figure 5. had a substantial warp raising the dial from the case along a line through the 6 and 12 o'clock positions. The warp Movement Overhaul was severe enough to interfere with mounting the hands. The wood plate construction is typical of early Black To reduce the warp, the numbers at 12 and 6 were removed Forest movements. The movement was disassembled by from the dial to enable a screw hole to be drilled and coun- removing the partial plates for the time and strike trains at

Figure 3. Movement Support and Bottom Door. Figure 4. Dial Warp Repair. Horological Times/September 1994 39 A Double Fusee Cuckoo Clock the rear of the movement. Each partial plate was held in and polishing the pivots, the bushings were checked for place by two nails at each end. After removing the time excess wear and replaced if necessary. Bushing a wooden and strike trains, the brass bushings in the plates were plate movement requires somewhat more endshake than cleaned. Toothpicks are very useful for cleaning the bush­ its brass plate counterpart. ings. They may be used dry or dipped in solvent. A small A 1/16" bronze cable was selected for the fusee. The tuft of steel wool held by a needle-nose pliers is useful for fusee gear has been removed in Figure 6 and the cable is cleaning the ends of the bushings. After cleaning the wheels shown ready to be looped about the arbor beneath the

.- ••• > - ~.,,,·

· . .. ' - .

Figure 7. Assembled Strike Train.

Figure 6. Fusee Ready for the Cable. Figure 8. Cuckoo Whistles Installed. 40 Horological Times/September 1994 A Double Fusee Cuckoo Clock ratchet gear. Instead of tying a knot, a small loop was rel arbor thereby lowering the ratchet and click or, sec­ formed at the end and bound with fine copper wire. A small ond, to add a "collar" around the click stud and use the touch of solder guaranteed the integrity of the loop. spacing beneath the click for the thickness of the plate. I opted for the collar, because it gave much increased Fusee Stopwork strength and overcame the damaged area around the click. A safety feature of the fusee is the stopwork that pre­ The collar is visible in Figure 7 and more clearly in Figure vents overwind. At the left or winding end of the fusee in 11. The collar has four screws to help distribute the load. Figure 6, the endplate is snail-shaped to provide a stop. The stop is indicated by the arrow. The stop is initiated by Cuckoo Whistle Installation a spring-loaded lever on the front plate that the cable moves The old cuckoo bellows could not be salvaged and into position as it touches the lever near the end of the recovered, so it was necessary to install new ones. The lift wind. It is very important to check the fusee stopwork to wire loops were made from piano wire. Their length and prevent a cable overwinding disaster. position were determined from the old bellows. The lift At the spring barrel end, the cable was anchored by wire loops should be installed and the tops of the whistles means of the three holes in the spring barrel rim. The notch squared up before the bellows are glued to the whistles. in the spring cover should be positioned to clear the cable. In wood plate movements, the cuckoo whistles are cemented to the top plate and the lift wires come through Assembling the Movement two small holes from the levers below. In preparation for The strike or cuckoo train is shown assembled in Fig­ mounting the whistles, the glue had to be removed from ure 7. The strike train is assembled first to allow easy ac­ the top plate where they were previously mounted. The cess to both sides of the gear train. The easy access facili­ whistles are positioned on the top plate so that their lift tates putting on the rear plate while maintaining the nec­ wire loops are located over the holes for their respective essary timing relationship of the gearing. After assembly, control lever. Only a minimum amount of glue should be it is good practice to check the timing of the strike train by used to simplify future removal and repair. The finished working the gear train by hand. The hammer should strike installation is shown in Figure 8. first, followed by the right whistle and then the left whistle. Note in Figure 8 that the cuckoo bird lift wire for the It is time well spent to check this function carefully be­ left bellows is missing and had to be added after the fore powering up the strike train. To power up the fusee, whistles were mounted on the movement. This oversight the cable is first wound on the spring barrel using the spring made the job much more difficult because of the high risk barrel arbor that is visible in the lower left of Figure 7. A of damaging the bellows. few extra clicks are given to assure positive tension on the The lift wires for the whistles were installed next. The cable. Next, the fusee arbor is wound to transfer the cable length can be determined by noting the motion of the le­ to the fusee. During the winding process, it is necessary to ver for the desired lift of the cuckoo bellows. Shortening manually guide the cable from the spring barrel to assure the lift wire reduces the lift; increasing the length increases that it doesn't skip grooves on the fusee. The same proce­ the lift. Timing between the whistles for the proper cuckoo dure is followed for the time train. sound is also a function of the length of the lift levers. Fine adjustment can be made by bending the lift levers on Click Problem the movement. This should be done with caution, because Checking the spring clicks and their ratchets should if the lever breaks, you have a messy repair on your hands. be a routine part of the repair process. In a fusee assem­ bly, this requires checking the clicks and ratchets on both Pendulum the fusee gear and the spring barrel. In this movement, the The pendulum is suspended from a 4" strap steel spring pin that holds the spring barrel click on the strike side was that is fastened to a small box-like structure on the rear of very loose in the plate. My first attempt to use a well­ the top plate. The structure is visible between the bellows cured epoxy filler failed. Inspection revealed that the tops in Figure 8. ratchet was at least 3/32 of an inch above the plate, which Since the pendulum was missing, it was necessary to required the click to operate high on its stud. The resultant make a new one. Calculating the length of the pendulum lever arm and the tremendous pressure of the spring when can be done in three steps. fully wound was the root cause of the problem. I consid­ 1. Count the number teeth in the gears and pinions in ered two options for repair: first to rework the spring bar- the time train starting at the cannon pinion and going

Horological Times/September 1994 41 A Double Fusee Cuckoo Clock through all the gear interfaces, wheel to wheel and wheel The complete pendulum is shown on the movement in to pinion, ending up at the escape wheel. The time train is Figure 10. shown schematically in Figure 9. 2. Find the beats per hour (BPH) by multiplying to­ Hand Repair gether the gear ratios for each gear interface. The inter­ The hands are bone, and careless treatment through face ratios are shown by arrows in Figure 9. Note that the the years took its toll. As received, the lower part of the escape wheel tooth count must be multiplied by two to minute hand had been repaired and the upper third of the account for the escapement. hand was missing. A small bone hand that matched the 36/48 x 70/6 x 64/6 x (39 x 2) = 7280 BPH pattern of the minute hand was found, and a portion of it 3. Substitute the BPH in the equation to find pendu­ was used to supply the missing section. To splice the hand, lum length. a flattened version of a "ball and socket" was formed at L = 39.14 (360017280)2 = 9.57" the joint, with the original hand forming a ball, and the The length (L) is measured from the support point of new section of hand forming the socket. Five minute ep­ the pendulum spring to the center of the bob. Since the oxy was used to bond the joint. The completed repair is existing suspension spring was 4" long, the pendulum shown in Figure 11 with the arrow pointing to the spliced length required was approximately 4.6". The pendulum section. was fabricated in two pieces. The upper section of the pen­ dulum is a 3" length of steel rod, 45 drill size, with a formed Spring Barrel Click Adjustment hook at the top. The size of the drill rod was dictated by At this stage, the movement is ready for bench test the loop dimension of the crutch. The pendulum bob and and set-up of the spring barrel clicks. rating assembly is soft soldered to the end of the drill rod. The spring barrel clicks on the time, and strike trains

(39 x 2)

Figure 9. Schematic of the Time Train. Figure 10. Back of the Movement Showing the Pendulum. 42 Horological Times/September 1994 A Double Fusee Cuckoo Clock are set by evaluating the rate of timekeeping and striking. because the clock is a wall hanger and the reference is the If the rate falls off with run time, the tension (number of top of the case. clicks on the ratchet) should be increased, and if the rate Vertical: On the back cover, the distance from 1116" increases with run time, the tension should be reduced. above the gong wire to the peak of the back cover was measured. This dimension was then used to set the distance Final Assembly from the bottom of the hammer to the inside peak of the case. After a successful bench test of the movement, only a Depth: The distance between the strike point on the few tasks remained. gong wire and the back cover was measured and the thick­ ness of the back cover added. The depth of the gong was Case Installation set by using a straightedge across the back of the case and The movement was installed in the case and fastened setting the hammer to this dimension. in place with the two toe nails at the bottom rear of the movement, and the two screws in the front of the case at Front Carving and Cuckoo Door the top of the movement. The carving was mounted on the case with the hooks and eyes as shown in Figure 2. It is prudent to check the Gong Adjustment latches again for integrity. The wood frame movement blocked the view of the The replacement cuckoo doors are visible in Figure 1. gong assembly through the side doors of the case, so that The doors are hinged on the carved frame and opened by visual adjustment of the gong hammer could not be used. two separate wires attached to the base of the cuckoo bird. It was necessary to determine location by measurement. The wires are connected to the doors by U-shaped wire If the measurement procedure seems upside down, it is loops on the inside of each door. Some experimenting was required to find the correct drive point on the doors and orientation of the cuckoo on its lever arm to assure clear­ ance of the bird and closure of the doors. The remaining adjustment associated with the door is the lift wire under the tail of the cuckoo bird, which causes the cuckoo bird's wings to flap and its beak to open. The lifting action of the wire is supplied by the left-hand bel­ lows to which the wire is attached. The wire should be adjusted to give good action to the bird. Care must be ex­ ercised not to have excess motion, which overloads the whistle and will distort the sound of the cuckoo. It was a pleasure restoring this wonderful old cuckoo clock. I wish it long life with its present and future owners and the repairmen they may engage. D

700 State _¥VM_J&AtL Street Quincy IL Gem City College 62301 Where Time Can Equal Money • Watchmaking • Jewelry (217) •Engraving • Jewelry Store 222- • Clock Repair Management 0391 Figure 11. Bone Hands. Horological Times/September 1994 43 How to Make a Stopworks Finger Piece

By Robert D. Porter, CMW

This article is a companion piece to "How to Make a Stopworks Starwheel," which appeared in last September's Horological Times. Figure 1 shows that the finger piece component of the counting and locking mechanism on the mainspring barrel cover . . . is m1ssmg. The arrows shown in Figures 2 and 3 represent important measurements that must be determined before starting to make the finger piece. Figure 4 is an example calculation using trigonometry to deter­ mine the included angle between the two holes that provide banking for the starwheel. It is a good idea Figure 1. to study and measure a working stopworks assem­ bly to get a sense of proportion. In this example, the maximum width "W" of the finger piece is about 93 % of the width of the slot in the star wheel. The length

~ \ I \ I I ...... / """ - + - Figure 2. Figure 3. 44 Horological Times/September 1994 How to Make a Stopworks Finger Piece l of the finger piece should allow about the same amount of clearance in the bottom of the slot. The diameter of the two holes shown can be equal to the maximum width of finger "W," with the cen­ ter of each hole being spaced about 75% of the maxi­ mum finger width away from the center line of the finger forming side "b" of the right triangle shown. The center of each hole is also positioned 1/3 of the hole diameter below the R 1 radius of the finger piece resulting in side "a" of the triangle. The holes will be partially cut away to provide banking for the star wheel. Figure 5 shows that three diameters have been turned on the steel stock. The larger front diameter includes the length of the finger. The smaller diam­ Figure 5. eter immediately behind represents the bottom of the holes, and provides a reference for checking the break-out of the drill, as pictured in Figure 6. It would

Figure 6.

W = .0325" (0.83 mm) Rl = .0681" (1.73 mm) b = 75% of'W' = .0244" (0.62 mm) a= Rl - 113 of'W' ~b a= .0681" - .011" = .0571" (1.45 mm)

opposite 'b' ------= sine of angle B hypotenuse 'a'

.0244" angle B = ------= .4273 = 25° 17' 51" (round to 25°18') .0571"

included angle 2B = 50 ° 36'

Figure 4. Figure 7. Horological Times/September 1994 45 How to Make a Stopworks Finger Piece

also be useful to have a drill reference diameter on the front of the part as well, to be faced off after the two holes are drilled. The next larger diameter toward the collet is a reference to control the depth of cut of the milling cutter (Figures 7 and 8) used to generate the Rl radius. A worm wheel dividing head, of the type shown in the September 1993 article, is ideal for controlling the milling operation and for accurately positioning the work to obtain the included angle between the two holes. Figure 9 pictures the drilling of the center hole in the finger piece. The drill diameter should be equal to the width of the square on the barrel arbor. The finger piece is then cut off the stock and pressed into pithwood (Figure 10) to hold Figure 8. the part for straight-line finishing on 600 grit wet-or-dry pa­ per. Excess stock is then filed away to form the finger. A square punch with which to form the square hole in the finger piece is being ground in Figure 11. The square on the punch should be exactly the same size as the square on the barrel arbor. Please note the pilot on the end of the punch. The pilot should be a close fit with the hole in the finger piece. The cutting edges on the entering end of the punch should be sharp. It is not necessary to harden the punch if it is made from blued balance staff wire, as it is a "one-shot" tool. Figure 12 shows the punch being used to form the square in the finger piece while it is being supported on a bench block over a hole that just clears the punch square. One smart tap on the punch with a brass hammer usually does the job. Pegwood, charged with steel polishing compound, is being used in the lathe to polish the edges of the finger piece in Figure 13. Figure 14 shows the mainspring barrel, cover, and stopwork components before assembly. Figure 9. The stopworks assembly is being tested for fit and func­ tion in Figures 15 and 16. It is a great feeling when every­ thing works as it should! Sometimes, it takes several tries to get it right. This class of work usually requires reverse engi­ neering to determine dimensions, as well as the making of special tooling to accomplish the task, and should command a much higher return on our time than run-of-the-mill jobs. D ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• • CORRECTION • Please note the following corrections to "A Torsion • Drive for Your Milling Attachment" in the August 1994 • issue of Horological Times: • • Photos in correct sequence appear on page 18. • • • We apologize for any confusion this may have caused. • • • Figure 10. • •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• 46 Horological Times/September 1994 How to Make a Stopworks Finger Piece

Figure 11 . Figure 14.

Figure 15.

Figure 12.

Figure 13. Figure 16. Horological Times/September 1994 47 1994 Horological Tour of Switzerland, Germany and Denmark

A diverse group of thirty-nine tourists accompanied Henry B. Fried on his twenty-first annual tour of Europe. Many of those on the tour have been on many of the other twenty; they assembled from as far away as Hawaii and Alaska. Because of Henry Fried's many contacts and his worldwide reputation in the field of horology, the "Fried Tour" insures many open doors not usually available to the ordinary tourist. Henry Fried describes this twenty-first tour as the "best yet"; however, he is already planning to top it with the twenty-second next spring. Those wishing to receive details of the twenty-second tour can contact Mr. Fried by dropping him a note c/o AWi Central. Members of the tour are shown here as they assembled in front of the Swisa Factory in Delmonte, Switzerland. They include:

Gene Augustin, Alaska Bill and Vira Lane, California Steve Bingham, North Carolina George Lawrason, Texas Harry and Peggy Blair, New Jersey Ross and Laurel Maddox, California Cliff Conn, Pennsylvania Clye Maxey, Colorado Harry and Leone Creed, California Ray Novak, Wisconsin Bernie Dier, Hawaii Mancel and Anna Page, Colorado Rik and Roberta Dietel, Florida Jeff Pomeroy, Minnesota Wes Door, Washington Julie Porter, California Henry Fried, New York Herb Sollenberger, Pennsylvania John Grass, California Sid and Anita Stein, New Jersey Monroe and Edythe Jaffee, Michigan Joyce Wahler, California Joe and Anna Mae Jakim, Pennsylvania Harry White, New Jersey Demos and Fanny Kehas, Idaho Jim Williams, Michigan Bill Kroh, Florida Nick Lerescu, president of Advantage Tours, New Jersey Jack Kurdzionak, Massachusetts

48 Horological Times/September 1994 AWi Annual Meeting Happenings at AWI's34th Annual Meeting

The retiring directors (left to right) Ben Matz, Gerhard Hutter, Charles Cleves, and James Williams were presented plaques of appreciation for their service to AWI as directors.

Joseph Cerullo, chairman of the Awards Committee, is shown with retiring president Wes Door. Wes received an honorary life membership and diamond past president's pin. He will remain on the Board as an elected director, and on the Executive Committee as the immediate past president. During the Sunday morning meeting, the new Board se­ lected the following executive officers for fiscal year 1994- 1995 (left to right): James Broughton, installing officer; M.R. Buddy Carpenter, first vice president; Marvin Whitney, treasurer; Fred Burckhardt, secretary; Joseph Cerullo, president; and Henry Frystak, second vice president.

During the awards banquet Saturday evening, the newly elected directors were installed by chairman Cerullo. Left to right: Joe Cerullo, installing officer; Henry Frystak; M.R. Buddy Carpenter; Roland Iverson; Charles McKinney; Robert Porter; Robert Nelson; and Greg Hostetter. Chuck McKinney is REC chairman/director, and Greg Hostetter is affiliate chapter chairman/director. Greg Hostetter (left) and Jack Kurdzionak (center) are shown after being installed by Joe Cerullo as affiliate chapter chair­ man and affiliate chapter vice chairman, respectively.

Horological Times/September 1994 49 AWi Annual Meeting

Chapter Awards Chairman Glen Gardner (far right) presented Henry Fried chatted at the registration desk with Kim (left) the Affiliate Chapter Award plaque to (from left to right) and Nancy Danner. Dennis Warner and Gerald Kincaid, delegates from the Horo­ logical Association of Maryland. This award is given to the chapter judged to have provided the best all-around service to its members and the community during the past year.

For the first time, chapter delegates met on Thursday evening for an informal reception and round-table discus­ During the awards banquet on Saturday evening, the ELM Chari­ sion. This was hosted by chapter chairman Greg and Beth table Trust auctioned a solid gold horology medallion. Fred Hostetter (foreground). Burckhard!, trustee (left) served as auctioneer. He is shown award­ ing the medallion to Charles Cleves, who was the highest bidder.

(Left) Attending her first AWI meeting is Lindsey LaFleche, held by mom Jacquelin LaFleche as she chats with Greg Hostetter. Lindsey's dad is Administrative Director David LaFleche. During their Thursday evening get-together, chapter del­ (Right) Les and Mary Jo Smith chatted with Thelma Stevens egates discussed topics to be addressed in Friday's meet­ during the banquet. They were probably reminiscing about when ing. Les ''Who" was AWI president in 1979-1980. 50 Horological Times/September 1994 AWI Annual Meeting

The Affiliate Chapter meeting, chaired by Greg Hostetter, Rick Dunnuck, North Carolina, addressed the chapter del­ was held Friday, June 24. Paul Wadsworth, to Greg's left, egates in session. served as parliamentarian.

Battery Collection Competition Members from thirty-three states and Puerto Rico donated 788 pounds of used silver oxide watch cells to the AWI Education, Library & Museum Charitable Trust during the year. The annual weigh-in revealed the following competition results: (Not shown) Category #3---First Place: Arizona; Second Place: Oklahoma; Third Place: Colorado (accepted by Josephine Hagans) Grand Prize Wmner: North Carolina Watchmakers Association

Category #I-First Place: Ben Matz, Horological Society ofNew York; Second Place: Doug Maggard Jr., Florida State Watchmak­ Honorable mention ers Association; 1hird Place: Gene Kelton, Horological Associa­ ' ' .~. -- 1· . 'I'~- . --.~ .. . - - .· '-. ~- - tion of California $- :::'·-)··-~. 1\:!i~ .. - I ~ ~ ·I ,, ' .. I · . · ·,,. ·,., 1 '.,_~· ..)I"' - ; ,._i;- . ;;,lllf .. .. .1 .. ., -~ ~ .. l' ·~ ,.. ~,' ..~ ,~ '1 ·:·.:~:'I.' . • t ~~. • ' ~· ~m.fi.. I I ~ ' .' . . .1~-: :, - ~-. ·. , I~ '1<. . ''ttf. .. ·. - . I. ~ , . . . · 1 ·" • I . . . , _ A a 1 l IIHonorable mention

Contributions are sent to AWI Central on an ongoing basis from individuals and states having no chapter. For example, Puerto Rico contributed more than sixty-four Category #2-First Place: Chris Wtles (right), North Carolina pounds this year. Watchmakers Association; Second Place: Gerald Kincaid Oeft), All proceeds derived from the sale of these batteries Horological Association of Maryland; Third Place: C.E. Chick are used to support the programs of the ELM Charitable Hardy (center), Horological Association ofVrrginia Trust and Student Loan Fund. Horological Times/September 1994 51 Association News

COLORADO keyed in on the old saying, "If you snooze, you Colorado Clock & Watchmakers Guild held lose!" They pointed out the need to experience its annual picnic Sunday, July 31, at the home of the reality of the twentieth century, and tear Les Grenz. Members each brought a dish for the down the wall that some have placed between pot-luck meal, and the guild supplied the meat themselves and the technology of the future. On and soft drinks. the plus side for those who have resisted so far, At their last meeting, a slate of candidates the technology is now easier to understand, and for officers was named. The slate consists of: is much simpler than in the past. Dan Jenkins, Richard R. Morris, Karl Franke, Ron Tidball and Karla Zeldin. Three from this MINNESOTA list will be elected. Minnesota Clockmaker's Guild meets the Wes Van Every, editor of Colorado's Escape­ first Thursday of each month at the St. Paul Tech­ ment newsletter, printed the following descrip­ nical College. The program at the June meeting tion of a watch. I'm sure many have read similar was an NAWCC video, "How to Restore a Vienna descriptions, but this is worth repeating from Regulator." Member Jim Winkels furnished the time to time. tape. What Is a Watch? Members are reminded of the AWI bench "An ordinary sixteen-size watch of the course coming to the Twin Cities, November 3 present day is composed of about 217 parts. and 4. Kern Schwartz, secretary and newsletter Making 18,000 beats or vibrations per hour, it editor, reveals plans for the first annual MCG has to make 432,000 per day, or 157,680,000 per Horological Symposium, to be held November year. The balance wheel travels 1.43 inches with 5, 1994. each vibration, which is equal to 9.75 miles in Four members-Richard Zielike, Michael twenty-four hours; 292.50 miles in thirty days, Mishou, Bill Bauer and Kern Schwartz-re­ or 3,558.75 miles in one year. ported to the guild about the five-day AWi "The wheels of a car at 56 miles per hour Project Extend escapement class they had at­ travel at the same rate the balance of a watch tended at the AWi Education Center in Cincin­ does. The horsepower of a hairspring is nati, Ohio. 0.00000001, one hundred millionth. A watch two minutes a day plus or minus is 99.8% perfect. NEW JERSEY "Among the many who own and carry The Watchmakers Association of New Jersey watches, how few ever stop to think of the marked its fifty-fifth anniversary this year, a amount of brain power that has been expended proud milestone for an organization that began upon its construction, or the repairs necessary before World War II and has come through both to bring it back to its original factory condition? good times and bad. Think of the number of its parts, and the diffi­ President John T. Sokol led members in a trib­ culties attendant upon the assembling of all these ute to past presidents, of whom five were present: delicate parts into one harmonious whole so that, Hans Weber, Emil Chesari, Joseph Barbieri, John when completed, it shall run continuously for a Prellberg, and Henry Frystak. John Sokol him­ period of months at least, and always indicate self would have counted as a past president also, the correct time without even a moment's rest." having served from 1986 through 1989, except that he has resumed the top office this year. INDIANA For this special occasion, WANJ's traditional The Indianapolis Horological Association anniversary celebration combined business and met Wednesday, July 20, and their program was a social evening, with spouses and friends join­ "Computers as Applied to Horology," presented ing members for a feast of home-cooked good­ by Ray Vance and David Shinn. The program ies. Another tradition, a buy-sell-and-swap ses- 52 Horological Times/September 1994 Association News sion, followed by an auction, topped off a lively Watch Repair Course" in San Antonio on Sep­ evening. tember 16 and 1 7. Phase I of the AWI lathe course will be in Austin September 9-12, with NEW YORK Phase II to be held October 7-10. The Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking invited the Holorological Society of New York VIRGINIA to hold a special meeting on its premises in The Horological Association of Virginia Con­ Woodside. The program included a chartered bus vention '94 is now history; however, 1995 con­ from Manhattan and a gourmet dinner. At the end vention chairman Chick Hardy has already be­ of the evening, there was an interesting tour of gun plans for April 29 and 30 at the Radisson the school. Patrick Henry in Roanoke. The HAV "Loups & During the evening, there were short ad­ Tweezers" reminds HAV members that their di­ dresses by Peter Laetsch; Carol Schwartz, the rect link to AWI is Chick Hardy, AWI affiliate new president of the school; Howard Fass, presi­ chapter representative. D dent of the HSNY; and Ben Matz, delegate to the AWI Annual Meeting. It was a very different and very exciting KEY TEST FOR evening, thoroughly enjoyed by all in attendance. QUARTZ WATCHES TEXAS Thomas Smith, editor of the newsletter for The "KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES" by the Watchmaker's Association of Houston Area, Ewell Hartman, CMW is a quick and simple method reports, "Our last meeting was of a technical oflocating the problem in a quartz analog movement. The only tool required is a meter. nature. We gathered at Waugh Watch Repair. While there, we watched a wonderful demonstra­ Material and instructions for learning this test are sup­ tion of crystal cutting. Member Charlie Oh, of plied by the AWI- ELM Trust as part of their educa­ Star Time Supply, arranged to have an automatic tional work. There is no charge to any group wishing cutter for us. And, to our delight, his wife Sara to learn this test. There are great benefits to learning hooked up a manual machine, and cut a perfect this in a group setting. However, for individuals who rectangular crystal. She then beveled the edges. may not be able to participate in a group, it is avail­ This was done from a round 40mm blank. These able to them also. exhibitions are truly a pleasure to be a part of. Many thanks to Charlie and Sara for this fantas­ For more information call or write the AWI office for tic demonstration! an information sheet and application form. "The benefits of membership in our associa­ tion are evident throughout my work day. I have Saving your Horological Times? friends who call me almost every day. We help Announcing each other in so many different ways, whether it NEW & IMPROVED HT BINDERS! be by sharing information or a difficult-to-find We have the answer to protecting and organizing your extra part. That's what this association is all magazines. Our leather-look binder holds 12 issues about-the help and support of fellow members." (one volume). End the frustration of searching for back The Texas Watchmakers Association's Board issues or trying to remember technical details that you just know you've read. If you are interested in organi­ of Directors met in San Antonio July 9 and 10 at zation, send a check or money order in the amount of the Best Western Oak Hills Motor Inn. We an­ $12.00 (postpaid) to: HT Binders, P.O. Box 11011, ticipate details of this meeting when Sue Ann Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. (Please allow three weeks Wysong publishes their next newsletter. Robert for handling and delivery.) Bishop will present the AWI "Advanced Quartz Horological Times/September 1994 53 Affiliate Chapters Column

By Greg Hostetter, CC

Another Affiliate Chapters' meeting has come and egates asked that this Thursday night meeting con­ gone. If you will forgive my immodesty, this year's cept be continued, and maybe expanded, next year. meeting was a great success. Many of the delegates In past years, delegates were asked to come to Cin­ commented to me that the meetings were less formal cinnati and go to the meeting without the opportunity than in the past, and this made for a much more re­ to meet the other delegates. Many of the delegates laxed, easier-to-work-with atmosphere. commented to me that they felt much more comfort­ So much took place, that I hardly know where to able going into the Affiliate Chapters' Meeting on start. On Thursday evening, delegates, AWI board Friday after having met and talked to the other del­ members, and other AWi members present got to­ egates on an informal basis on Thursday evening. I gether for an informal social hour. This gave every­ agree that this made for a much more relaxed and pro­ one a chance to get to know each other before getting ductive meeting on Friday. Not only did we take care down to work. of our regular work, but delegates took the opportu­ Immediately after the social, the delegates sat nity to ask more questions to learn more about the down for what was supposed to be a series of round­ other chapters. In the five years I've been attending table discussions (after I made a few brief comments). the affiliates' meeting, I've never seen such a good While I was explaining what would take place during exchange of information. the affiliates' meeting scheduled for the next day, how­ During the affiliates' meeting on Friday, many ever, somebody asked a question regarding a proposal good ideas were presented. Some of these ideas were they had brought. This led to another question, which the direct result of the meeting the night before. A led to some discussion, which led to more questions proposal was brought up that the delegates get together and discussion. via conference call at least once per year. The point of The meeting turned into a session where delegates the motion was to allow delegates to continue with an could put up "trial balloons" for their proposals. Sev­ open dialog to discuss issues, much like the Thursday eral delegates took this information and modified their night meeting. For a variety of concerns, this motion proposals before bringing them up at the Friday meet­ was voted down in favor of setting up a periodic news­ ing. Many delegates told me that they really liked this letter that would be used to address affiliate issues. opportunity to openly and freely discuss their propos­ This newsletter would in no way circumvent this col­ als and ideas. umn, but would instead complement the column. It A variety of other topics were brought up for dis­ will publish ideas and issues that affect the AWI af­ cussion. Someone asked about raising funds for a filiate chapters. Stan McMahon volunteered to cap­ chapter to send a delegate to Cincinnati. Among the tain the newsletter committee. He will be sending out ideas presented was a 50/50 raffle. Members of a chap­ details very soon. ter buy raffle tickets for a chance to win 50% of the Another issue that was addressed was how to get total of all tickets purchased. The other 50% of the more of the chapters represented at our annual meet­ money goes to the chapter. This idea was very well ing. Here again, an excellent idea was put forth. I will received. be asking four of the delegates present at this year's The meeting went on for more than two hours, meeting to serve as area representatives to the other with many questions asked of other delegates and affiliate chapters. These representatives will be in con­ AWi. Everyone seemed very pleased, and many del- tact with the chapters in their area to keep open a more

54 Horological Times/September 1994 direct line of communication. This link will allow for more direct input, and will work in conjunction with ~ Complete Suppliers to ~ Stan and the newsletter committee. Together, we will become a lively and active affiliate chapters commit­ Watchmakers & Jewelers tee that works together to get things done, not only Since 1918 one day per year, but throughout the entire year. As in past years, the delegates selected an Affili­ ate Chapter of the Year. This chapter is selected on Watch Parts • Watch Bands the basis of how well they service their membership, & among other things. This year's winner is the Eveready Renata Batteries Horological Association of Maryland. They impressed Crystals • Cleaning Solutions everyone with the fact that they hold twenty-two regu­ larly scheduled meetings per year. Also, they just re­ Tools • Equipment • Supplies cently held their first convention in their ten-year his­ Casting Supplies tory. Congratulations! The members of the H.A.M. should be proud. The awards committee also recognized the Min­ nesota Clockmakers Guild for all they have done over the past year. Not only did they join the affiliate chap­ 535 16th St., Suite 840 ters this year, as did the Western Pennsylvania Watch Denver, CO 80202-4243 and Clockmakers Association, but they impressed the PHONE & FAX awards committee with the level of activity and growth in membership over the past year. Congratulations! TOLL FREE 1-800-332-4158 I am very proud of the way the delegates worked Mastercard & Visa Accepted together. I have never seen more enthusiasm and ex­ citement demonstrated. I am very grateful to the del­ egates for re-electing me to be chairman another year, and I look forward to working with each of the chap­ ters and delegates to make the best year ever for the AWI affiliate chapters. 0 HAVING TECHNICAL PROBLEMS? CALLTHEAWI HOTLINE (513) 661-4636

/' If you have any ideas to share with the Horological Times staff, send your letters to:

AWI Central 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211

Horological Times/September 1994 SS Book Review

DAS TOURBILLON: FASZINATION DER colored, page-sized photos of different tourbillons, UHRENTECHNIK, by Reinhard Meis. 9 1/2" x 11 dating from Breguet's earliest models to modem-day 1/2", 391 pages, 500 color, 150 b/w photos and illus­ examples. Many of these by well-known makers are trations. Published 1993 by Geo. D.W. Callwey, shown in detailed views. Germany's contributions Munich @ $200.00. Available through Superior Watch stem mainly from the Glashiitte area. Service, Brooklyn NY 11219. Modem wrist watches with tourbillon-mounted es­ capements include, among others, those by Gerald This book could be possibly the most comprehen­ Genta, Allan Roth, Miller, l.W.C., Jaeger Lecoultre, sive ever written on watches with revolving escape­ Chinese, Hong Kong versions by Kiu Tai Yu, Patek­ ments, termed by its inventor Breguet as the Tourbil­ Philippe and Lip of Besancon. lon. Professor Reinhard Meis has authored many Watches with "flying tourbillons"-that is, those books, all of which reflect his thoroughness of study without any pivoting support for the balance bridge and coverage. typical of the latter-day German design-are shown Das Tourbillon is divided into many sections, some in their section. of which include theory and formulas of the Karrusels by Kullberg, Thornloe, Langford, timekeeping elements in timekeepers, particularly bal­ Durrant, Patek Philippe, Russel and Son, Better, ances, hairsprings of all types, compensating devices Frodsham, Rossiter, and Lange are included with pho­ such as fusee, and power sources of all types. All are tographs, and some have line drawings. Teaching mod­ illustrated with the author's professional drawings. els of the tourbillon system used in horological schools These include his schematic black and white draw­ are pictured as well. Carriage clocks and mantle clocks ings of Arnold's and Breguet's various escapements employing the tourbillon-mounted escapements more used in early tourbillons. for visual than technological reasons are similarly Through the years, many very able watchmakers covered. made watches with tourbillon-mounted escapements. Pictured mostly are pocket watches with tourbil­ In this book are the very many designs of the delicate lons by famous makers. One once owned by this re­ patterns of each well-known maker. This, then, be­ viewer with no markings now sports a beautifully en­ comes an excellent guide to the identity of each of graved adoptive "Albert Potter, Geneva" on its plates. these maker's tourbillons: Swiss, French, German and The inside book covers show twenty precise draw­ English. Bonniksen's karrusels, and others using his ings by Meis of various types of tourbillon frames system, are covered in a six-page section. and their identifying makers. The Waterbury rotary watch is included since in Aside from its comprehensive photographic and this American forerunner of the Ingersoll dollar watch, illustrative coverage, this book has been very well or­ the whole movement revolves within its case. In 1904, ganized. An excellent cross-index of many pages in­ Loichot of Charquemont (Doubs) created a simple cludes names, prizes or awards, makers and photo­ tourbillon exposed through the lower half of the dial. graphic sources and bibliographical sources. For any­ This type is better known in the USA as the "mobilis" one owning a tourbillon or interested in these photo­ type. Other similar types of moderately priced tour­ genic and practical applications to eliminate the edge billon pocket watches produced in the very early part position errors, this book should be a "must." Despite of this century include those by Loinzghi in Switzer­ its German-language text, the photos and illustrations land, Louis and Fallet, Courvoisier of La Chaux de are adequate in themselves to provide hard-to-find in­ Fonds and Moser. Each is shown in quite good cross­ formation. sectional and flat view drawings by the author. Henry B. Fried Modem tourbillons, notably by George Daniels and Richard Good with differentially motivated tour­ billon carriages with roller bearings, are covered with drawings and accompanying photographs. The largest section of this book is 250 pages of 56 Horological Times/September 1994 Bulletin Board

A. NEW REQUESTS sons for home study as prepared by the scboo] sometime SCHEMATIC FOR SO NIX ULTRASONIC CLEANER early in the century. The book is in poor condition; how­ Charles Goad, Independence, KS seeks a schematic for a ever, AWI will obtain copies of the material for our files. Sonix 4 Ultrasonic cleaner model SSIOI. HAMILTON 999 PARTS LIST C &E MARSHALL, HAMILTON PARTS CABINET R.L. Ravel Co. (Robert Ravel) is a source for much of the Joe M. Cole, Dublin, TX has a Hamilton material cabinet Hamilton material that is not readily available though other by C & E Marshall Company. The cabinet contains two sources, and has provided AWI with copies of the specs drawers with bottles numbered from 1 to 842. Mr. Cole for 998B and 999B Hamilton watches. These are not for seeks the identification chart for this assortment. the older models 998/999. Mr. Ravel reports that he has never seen a listing for the 998/999 models. The specs AUGUST SCHATZ PLATFORM ESCAPEMENT contain factory numbers and not material sales numbers. CLOCK, W3 AWI will make copies available to interested members. F. W. Ecker, Spokane, WA is seeking the proper measure­ ments for the time spring in an August Schatz & Sohne C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED movement W3. Mr. Ecker states that the escape bridge is DOUBLEDIALCALENDARCLOCKREPRODUCTION marked 14400 SZ, 2 jewels. The escapement is almost like Robert Merrill, Andover, MA writes, "I have a double dial the one shown in the PM catalog, page 116, stock# PM­ calendar clock marked 'Ethan Allen' on the time dial. It is CE 67; however, it is not a pin pallet escapement. a very nice reproduction with a relatively current Model 47 Urgos movement for the clock and a separate calendar FIX-0-FLEX WATCHBANDS dial that was driven by some form of belt. It is driven off Nurdin Qasimal, Calgary, Alberta, Canada seeks the name the Cannon pipe and passes over several pulleys to a simi­ and address of anyone who distributes watchbands by the lar drive wheel in the calendar portion." name "Fix-0-Flex." The belt needed is about 3/16" wide and has a series of holes close to one edge that are about 3/16" apart. the GERMAN WOLF JAHN WW-TYPE LATHE problem with 0-rings and similar material is that it even­ Eddie Robertshaw, Dunedin, New Zealand seeks a copy tually walks off the pulleys. Three photos of this clock are of the accessories and/or instruction book for the German shown on page 40 of the August, 1994 issue of Horologi­ Wolf Jahn WW-type lathe manufactured in Frankfort, cal Times. Germany until early 1960s. We will be happy to copy your booklet for Mr. Robertshaw and return your original to WORLD CUP OF SOCCER WATCH you, or reimburse for having it copied locally. The House of Time, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada would like a source for watches commemorating the 1994 B. RESPONSES World Cup of Soccer. HIGH TIME CEILING CLOCK Richard E. Porter, Minneapolis, MN writes: C.E. MARSHALL MATERIAL ASSORTMENT In reply to request for information on "High Time Ceiling CHARTS Clock" from Marvin Blasser of Dallas, TX, this clock was Bo Atkins, Knoxville, TN has a C.E. Marshall Swiss staff, manufactured by Stancraft Products, a division of Stan­ stem and mainspring assortment housed in a two-drawer dard Packaging Corp. Both of these date back to the time cabinet that measures 11 3/4" wide by 8" tall; each drawer when it was called Brown & Bigelow, playing cards, cal­ has six divisions. The envelopes in the drawers are num­ endars, and miscellaneous sales promotional items. Now bered 1-3396 for staff and #IL - 1800L for stems. Mr. the parent company is called Boyle Products, 345 E. Plato Atkins seeks a copy of the charts that identify the contents Blvd .. St. Paul. MN 55107; (612) 293-7500. of the various numbered envelopes. I have one Model 787H. It gave up the ghost a long while ago, but I keep it for its uniqueness. I am quite sure they JUNGHANS B-09 INFORMATION are no longer produced, or if they still have parts. Howar4 Partlo, Spring Hill, FL is seeking service infor­ mation for the Junghans B-09 clock. ST. LOUIS WATCHMAKING SCHOOL Walter Opdycke, Livonia, MI writes that he purchased at an antique show a scrapbook containing twenty-four les-

Horological Times/September 1994 57 News of the Trade

BUTTERWORTH CLOCKS US DISTRIBUTOR P. Schwartz as president and chief executive of­ OF URGOS CLOCKS ficer of the school. Urgos Uhrenfabrik has named Butterworth In her new capacity, Ms. Schwartz will be re­ Clocks, Inc. as its exclusive distributor for the sponsible for maintaining the excellent fifty-year United States. Urgos is again producing weight­ reputation of this not-for-profit school dedicated driven movements in the UW 32, UW 030, and to training programs for men and women, includ­ UW 66 series. Although numerous improvements ing those with disabilities. have been made internally, the new units are Previous to this position, Ms. Schwartz completely interchangeable with the originals for served as executive director of the Hazel den replacement purposes. Delivery has already been Foundation's Fellowship Club in New York, made on twenty different executions. For com­ where she was responsible for the development plete information, contact Butterworth Clocks, and management of a newly established multi­ Inc., 1715 Pearlview, Muscatine IA 52761 ~ (319) million dollar intermediate care facility. Ms. 263-6759. Schwartz also worked as the assistant director of alcohol services at Long Island College Hos­ NEWSLETTER FOCUSES ON VINTAGE pital in Brooklyn, New York, where she was pre­ WRIST WATCHES viously employed as a therapist/clinical case Vintage Wrist Watch Report, a new publica­ manager. tion edited and published by Bruce Shawkey of Founded in 1945, the Joseph Bulova School Madison, Wisconsin, has made its debut with trains men and women in the craft of watch re­ news and feature stories about moderately priced pair. The school offers nine-, thirteen- and vintage wrist watches. seventeen-month training programs. A fully Each monthly eight-page issue features an in­ equipped, wheelchair-accessible dormitory is lo­ depth report and market analysis on a selected cated on the premises. Students can begin their brand of watch or type of watch (such as chro­ study at any time during the academic year. nograph, military, character, etc.), accompanied For more information, contact the Joseph by quality black-and-white photos. Other stories Bulova School, 40-24 62nd Street, Woodside NY include technical advice (written for the lay per­ 11377. son), dealer profiles, and book reviews. "The newsletter's focus is on vintage wrist ETA INTRODUCES REFRESHER COURSE watches affordable by most collectors and retail ON MECHANICAL WATCHES buyers," says Shawkey. "For the retail jeweler In response to a growing demand from its or watch seller, the newsletter is a tool to make customers, ETA SA Fabriques d'Ebauches is now more intelligent buying decisions and increase adding a refresher course on mechanical watches sales to customers through greater product to the regular program of courses it gives for know ledge." watchmakers at its training center in Grenchen. A one-year subscription costs $30 within the The program, which lasts three-and-a-half US, $35 in Canada, and $40 overseas. For more days, covers the following subjects: information, or to subscribe, contact Shawkey ETA's line of hand-wound and automatic products at 621 N. Sherman Ave., Suite L, Madison WI Characteristics and special features 53704. Phone/fax: (608) 249-6979. Cleaning and lubricating movements Use of the "Etachron" index BULOVA SCHOOL NAMES NEW PRESIDENT Checking assembly of the automatic mechanism The Board of Trustees of the Joseph Bulova Fitting dial and hands assembly School has announced the appointment of Carole Working with a selection of ETA movements.

58 Horologi,cal Times/September 1994 ,~------, News of the Trade *ROLEX WATCH MATERIAL*l FOR GREAT SERVICE The first of ETA's refresher courses on me­ ON ALL CROWNS, chanical watches will take place this year, and SAPPHIRE & PLASTIC will be integrated in 199 5 into the annual pro­ CRYSTALS, TUBES, GASKETS, gram of the ETA Center. For more details, con­ MOVEMENT PARTS, ETC. tact Remy Waelchli, ETA SA Fabriques d'Ebauches, Bahnhofstrasse 9, CH 2540 CALL: S&G INDUSTRIES Grenchen, Switzerland. TOLL FREE 1-800-942-0047 FAX: 1-800-423-4256 NEW CASEBACK OPENER FROM SEIKO WILL BE KINDER TO WATCHES AND 'WE STOCK WHAT WE SELL" WATCHMAKERS Three years ago, Scott Chou, director of tech­ nical services for COSERV, began experiment­ <:a·t8 [Z] ing with various approaches to a safer, surer caseback tool. He came up with a prototype that WE GIVE QUICK AND EFFICIENT has since been through several refinements with SERVICE 24 HOURS A DAY! Seiko engineers in Japan. 7 DAYS A WEEK! Now in production and with a US patent pending, the Seiko Easy Snap Caseback Opener NJ: 1-908-469-7200 S-261, developed by Scott Chou, is a watch­ maker-friendly device that promises to be popu­ ~------J lar with both highly skilled repair technicians and with retail clerks who are seldom called upon to do more than replace batteries. CASIO WATCH Chou reports the Seiko Easy Snap will be PARTS made available through material distributors for No Minimum Order Required COS ERV, and will retail for under $100. 0 Kahen Enterprises Official Casio Distributor

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Horological Times/September 1994 59 REGULATIONS AND RATES

Ads are payable in advance $. 70 per word, $.80 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $30.00 per column inch, 2-1/4" wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance (e.g. November issue closes for copy on October 1st).

HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P .0. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838 Fax (513) 661-3131

r FACTORY-CERTIFIED FREE ACCUTRON REPAIR ROLEX SERVICE Send 2 men's Accutrons (no basket cases) II 11 Master Watchmaker, 45 years experience. Will repair one free and keep the other Certified Rolex specialist. Only genuine ma­ SPACE VIEWS -- $150 terials used. Service includes case & brace­ George Hite, 246 Del Pond Drive let refinishing & waterproofing of case. High­ Canton, MA 02021, (617) 821-5288 HAMILTONELECTRICWATCHREPAm. grade watches & clocks are our specialty. Expert, experienced service on all Model 500 Ask for Alvin or Marcus; (203) 792-4539. SPAC~WEWCONVER~ONS$45 and 505 Electric watches. -- Want to buy ~ ~ Hamilton Electric parts. Also unusual Hamilton watches, Hamilton advertising and memorabil­ DIAL REFINISHING CO-FAST SERVICE, ia. --Rene Rondeau, P.O. Box391, Corte Madera, FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. CA 94976. (415) 924-6534, Fax (414) 924-8423. MEL HEFNER TRADE SHOP Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit Professional watchmaker repairs mechanical, the quartz movement. Send your works to: Accutron tuning fork, and analog quartz watch­ KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., es. Request price list. Expert retrofitting. P.O. Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. TIMING MACHINES -- NEW AND REFUR­ Box 419, Dadville, AL 36853; (205) 825-4559. BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR -- Bezels, HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, Call (814) 692-2285. Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995. rebushing. REPAIRING: timers, aircraft clocks, pocket watches. ROYH. NIEGEL, CMC, CMW, r------, N31552 Saint Joe Drive, Spirit Lake, Idaho I DIAL I L) THE ACCUTRON MAN 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623-4330. A "Cracker Jack" when it : REFINISHING l comes to repairing Aa:utron Watches! PLATFORM ESCAPEMENTS. I have 40 I ,.. ,.. Ii!,. I years experience in restoring and making parts I a .. _ 2· I Let me "Spaceview It" according to for platform escapements, staffs, cylinders, Bulova Factory Standards! repivoting, pinions, hairsprings, and jewels. I • -· I New platforms fitted. JOHN BARRS, English '·· 4 : I Clockmaker, 3924 S.W. Holden St., Seattle, I -. - Not anxious to spend money ?') ..... then trade I :.. A" 1 ~ I in your model 214 & 218 junker watches WA 98136; (206) 935-0596. for cash credit against your repair bill! I BEFORE AFTER I I Quartz Conversions I Why not give me a call and ..... Diamond Dial Conversions LET'S TALK ACCUTRONS! ATMOS BY JAEGER-LECOULTRE I Emblem & Name Personalization I Overhauled with a George Fruge' three-year (3) warranty on all labor I Write for Brochures I 251 Greenwich A venue MIKE'S CLOCK CLINIC I INTERNATIONAL DIAL co., INC. I Greenwich. Ct. 06830 1326 Stanford Street I 58 w. SUGARTREE I Tel: 203-661-0056 Santa Monica, CA 90404-2502 I P.O. BOX 970 I Fax: .203-661-0703 Established in 1982 & AWi Trained WILMINGTON, OH 45177 \ Please Call (310) 828-6707 I (513) 382-4535 L------' 60 Horological Times/September 1994 ;: " i c £!2

ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE MURPHY'S Custom Made Watch Bands We are Factory Authorized Service for: * VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP CRYSTAL SERVICE To Fit Your Vintage Watch * TICK·O-PRINT & L&R FAST--QUALITY WORK 1950s Style (Not Tapered), Made in USA We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. • 24-hour turnaround on most jobs. GENUINE ALLIGATOR & CROCODILE JACK PHILLIPS • Complete crystal fitting service ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE for new and old wrist and pocket 757 Lincoln Ave., #26 San Rafael, CA 94901 watches. AFRICAN OSTRICH For Information Call (415) 453-9266 CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE LIST FAX or PHONE (209) 576-8865 2324 WESTMINSTER DR. t?t:t::. .:gsui~ :. MODESTO, CA 95355 Available In SHINE or DULL FINISH 9116 518 21132 11f16 3/4 13'16 CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, 14mm 16mm 17mm 1amm 19mm 20mm material and tools. Custom made to order or BLACK BROWN PEANUT AL.WAYSINSTOCK repair of gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog ARE YOU SPENDING TOO MUCH FOR ~ an 1'8qu6s!: Red, Green, Blue, Borg., Gray $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box338,Atwater, CRYSTALS?? We will make any flat mineral OH 44201; (2l6) 947-2268. or heavy plastic crystal. One-day turnaround. Th ese \flatcl1 Ba nds Rela1I 1n Fine Stereo; 101 S7S 1, J Sd Call or write for price list. D & H Crystal Co., FOX PRICE $15.00 EA. 708-D Westchester Dr., High Point, NC 27262; phone/fax (910) 889-0148. CUTl'ERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pin­ ALSO AVAILABLE -- THE EXECUTIVE ions. Module 0.2to1.0. Constant profile produc­ Thickly padded & stitched with rounded end, ing traditional square bottomed teeth, 104 sizes. Crocodile & Ostrich -- $22.50 Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven sizes), dead beat (set offour sizes). Ratchets 60° and 70°. All Send SASE for other selections cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 High Speed 11 ARTleLES FOR SALE 11 Send Check To: Steel and heat treated under vacuum. Also FOX ENTERPRISES cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. Send for 4011 Dalevlew Ave., Seaford, New York 11783 Information Sheet, prices, and order forms to: OR CALL 516-781-5754 P.P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Horological NEW FLOOR CLOCKS Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, Upper Howard Miller and Ridgeway floor clocks, from Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, England; Tele­ 50-63% off. Howard Miller wall clocks, up to phone 0295-680454, Fax 0295-688176. 53% off. Mel Taylor, A Time to Remember, P.O. Box1007,Nashville,IN 47448. 1-800-267-7756 or (812) 988-8463. Send $3.00 for our new REPIVOTING-balance staffs, pinions, arbors clock supply catalog! for wrist and pocket watches. Do not replace Timesavers original parts, let us repivot to manufacturer WITSCm Q TEST 6000 used for 6 months, Box 12700 standards. Juliusz Dabrowski, J .D. W atchworks mint condition. You'll save hundreds. Satisfac­ Scottsdale, AZ. 85267 602-483-3711 Co., 210 Post St., Suite 506, San Francisco, CA tion guaranteed. $2300. Ask for Bob (314) 968- 94108; Phone: (415) 397-0310, Fax: (415) 397- 1010. 0601.

USED WATCH MOVEMENTS. H. HERB & ZA900B Zantech Quartz Analizer. Little use, SON, 908RIVARIDGEDR., GREAT FALLS, CLOCK WHEEL AND excellent condition, $600. 9:30-4:00, M-F (busi­ VA 22066; (703) 549-8045. PINION CUTTING ness hours), (803) 856-0280. Fast service -- Write for free Bro­ chure and price list. Fendleys, 2535 EQUIPMENT: Bulova VC-10 Cleaner, $795; Himes St., Irving, TX75060. (214) A complete selection of Watchmaster Mark V, $1195; VibrografB-200, spare parts for the 986-7698. Golden Hour Clock $795; Vibrograf B-200A, $895; Marshall 3-jar clean.er, $149.95; Watchmaste.\" WT cleaner, The Golden Hour Clock Co. $350; L&R Ultrasonic cleaner, $395; Bestfit n45 East Redfield Road #500 1986 microfiche system with viewer, $350. Oth­ QUARTZ CONVERSIONS Scottsdale, AZ. 85260 er watchmaker's & jewelers equipment 602-483-3711 WATCH RUSTED? DISCONTINUED? and engraving type available! Send SASE for our equipment and hand tool list. NO PARTS? SENTIMENTAL? GOLD CASE? Watches Etc., 5934NW 39th, Oklahoma City, OK 73122; SEND IT TO AL ZAMORA (405) 789-2824. FOR A NEW SWISS QUALITY MOVEMENT AND FIRST QUALITY JOB CONVERSION. CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD 90% SIZES POSSIBLE. CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL SAFE REGISTERED MAIL. Save time, money, and work re-covering MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed ALFONSO ZAMORA bellows. Easier than replacing. For infor­ lowest prices--as low as $2.30. Two-year guar­ 280 PRESIDIO PLACE mation, send business-size SASE to: antee. Large selection of hands and numerals. BUFFALO, NY 14221 JANDi GOGGIN Free delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. (716) 633-6138 Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 HALLCLOCKSHOP,1512CentralAve.,Char­ lotte, NC 28205. September 1994/Horological Times 61 WANTED * Watches: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron, Lecoultre, IWC, Etc. Also Buying Low Grades--Gold-Filled & Gold WATCH - CLOCK - SALES - SERVICE WANTED: High-grade electro-mechanical (Hamilton, Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Etc.) This location 17 years. Gross 200k+, expand­ clocks, literature, and parts. Elliot Siegel, 930 * Sterling & Plated Trays, Dishes, Service able, everything included. I would like to retire! Broadway, Wassapequis, NY 11758; (516) 541- Sets, Etc. South Central Texas. (210) 349-0781, Fax (210) 2400. • Scrap--Gold-Filled, Gold, Silver, Platinum, 349-6169, 9-5 Central Time. Must be good tech­ Watch Batteries (Silver or Mixed) nician. Owner carry part. CALL We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any TOLL FREE 1-800-426-2344 amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, SPECIALTY METALS silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment REFINING COMPANY return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King 10 Bay Street St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab­ Westport, CT 06880 Watch andjewelry repair concessions available lished 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073. in national retail chain. Small investment re­ Members: Better BusinessBureau quired. Ifinterested, write to: Action Time, Inc., Jewelers Board of Trade Our 1 13th Consecutive Ad 20423 State Road 7, Suite 6132, Boca Raton, FL Ron Fried. President 33498. WANTED: CHRONOGRAPH MOVE­ MENTS. Will pay: Valjoux 88 & 69, $300; 72C, $150;72&23,$125;22,$75; 7733,$40;Venus 140 & 178, $100; 150, $50; split 179, $1500; INTERNATIONAL WATCH CO. CALIBRE 87 Longines 13ZN & 13.33, $350; Movado 90 & 95, CLUTCH WHEEL NEEDED. KEN $350; universal, $100-$1000; repeater move­ II WALDHORN. (810) 399-3067. II ments, $100-$2000; Rolex movements, $100- NEW BOOK! $500. Will pay more for complete watches. Also Building an American Clock Movement, want cases, dials, parts. Dean Sarnelle, 25 W. by Steven G. Conover, shows you how to make Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401; Phone and Fax (703) 885-6064. ALL WATCHES WANTED!!! a shelf clock movement! Also ideal for repairers Breitling, Hamilton, Rolex, Movado, LeCoultre, who want to make gears, lantern pinions and Illinois, chronos, moonphases, asymmetricals, other parts on Sherline or Unimat equipment. railroads, etc. in any condition. Also buying Illustrated, 90 pages, 8-1/2" x 11", $21.95 post­ parts from any of the above or what have you. paid, US/Canada. ClockmakersNewsletter, 203 Derek Molnor, Vintage Time of Pgh., 1120 John Glenn Ave., Reading, PA 19607. 7th St., New Kensington, PA 15068; (412) 335- Watches Wanted 2320. SCHOOLS II II RETIRING, RETIRED, OR OTHERWISE. Buy­ ing watchmaker's large or small accumulations of tools, materials, etc. Will travel east of the Mississippi. Ken Waldhorn, (810) 399-3067. JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 11377 We desperately need our retail Phone(718)424-2929 customers' fine watches by: WANTED: Tempo Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Machine, near new. Fuhrer, (619) 235-6995. Quality Instruction Since 1945 Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, WATCHMAKING Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, (17 months) Gubelin, etc. WANTED: Will pay up to $500 for Rolex Easy WATCH REPAIR Opener. Also need Rolex crystal press and Rolex (9 and 13 months) movements, cases, dials, etc. We also buywatch­ We are paying top prices for any high makers tools and equipment, pocket watches, JEWELRY DESIGN & REPAIR quality, unusual or complicated and wristwatches. Single items or complete Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation Wrist or Pocket Watches collections. Watches Etc., 5934 N.W. 39th, Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824. When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch Call Us Toll Free 1-800-842-8625 In Texas 1-214-902-0664 ANYTHING ll..LINOIS HELP WANTED Want to buy Illinois wristwatches, dials, move­ II Always prompt immediate payment! ments and cases (complete or parts) in any It condition for avid private collector. Please call WATCHMAKER - Rochester, NY. Full time, Wingate's Quality Watches 800-421-1968, x5520, Fax 714-725-9787 or mail take charge person who can sell and repair. P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 to Fred Friedberg, do TAMS, P.O. Box 2068, Salary+ bonus. Call Bob (510) 735-1128. Tustin, CA 92681-2068. 62 Horological Times/September 1994 TAPE 21: Approximately 2 hours J.M. HUCKA_BEE'S SUBJECT MATTER: Making an American c\oc\t veroe. 't\uc\c.abee demonstrates how to select and work raw materials into a verge ''Random Clock Talks'' for an Ingraham miniature kitchen clock­ time only.

TAPE 22: Approximately 2 hours The series of 37 "Random Clock Talks" videotapes listed below are available for loan SUBJECT MATTER: Completion of making a verge for an Ingraham kitchen clock from to AWi members from the AWi Audio Visual Library. The tapes vary in viewing time Tape 21 . Also random tips and cutting a from 1.25 to 2.00 hours and are available in the VHS format. A service charge of 32-tooth recoil escape wheel for an Ansonia $5.00 each is to accompany requests to borrow a tape; only one tape is loaned at a kitchen clock. time. The service charge covers AWi's production and shipping costs. Tapes should be returned to AWi within 7 days after receipt, insured for $30.00. Please order tape TAPE 23: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Pivot and bushing by number along with your name, address, and $5.00 service charge. Send to: AWi problems and their repair. Audio Visual Library, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211. TAPE 24: Approximately 2 hours Not available at this time. TAPE 1: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 12: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: A brief view and SUBJECT MATTER: Using a custom-made discussion of a variety of clocks and tools attachment to make wheels and index plates used in the Huckabee shop. on the Unimat lathe. The custom-made TAPE 25: Approximately 2 hours attachments can be made from drawing SUBJECT MATTER: Clock mainspring TAPE 2: Approximately 2 hours available from AWi upon request (cost to and barrel work. SUBJECT MATTER: Demonstration and cover printing and postage is $2.00). discussion on using various tools and lathes TAPE 26: Approximately 2 hours to make and fit a clock bushing. TAPE 13: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Clock mainspring ends SUBJECT MATTER: Cutting clock wheels­ and barrel teeth. Huckabee demonstrates TAPE 3 : Approximately 2 hours a demonstration of cutting the wheels used how to replace teeth in the barrel of an SUBJECT MATTER: Discussion and dem­ in the AWi CMC examination. Urgos 8-day modern clock. Huckabee onstration on lathe operation using the also fashions a new hole end for the main­ Boley watchmakers lathe and the C&E spring. TAPE 14: Approximately 2 hours Marshall watchmakers lathe. SUBJECT MATTER: Using an inexpen­ TAPE 27: Approximately 2 hours sive quartz analog clock movement, Huck­ TAPE 4 : Approximately 1.50 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Understanding the abee disassembles the movement and pro­ SUBJECT MATTER: An analysis and work antique American clock time train and vides an in-depth explanation of each with the Urgos 21 /42 8-day trapezoid repairs to it and using the Unimat lathe component and their function in the opera­ time only clock. to polish pivots. tion of the timepiece. TAPE 5 : Approximately 2 hours TAPES 28 & 29 TAPE 15: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: A demonstration and Not available at this time. discussion about drilling the arbor using SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee presents an Huck's " turning in a box" method and in-depth discussion on the design of Cl,!tting TAPES 30-34: Approximately 2 hours each making a pivot. tool bits, both hand-held and those held SUBJECT MATTER: A series of five tapes in the tool post rest. Also a discussion of designed as a teaching exercise which TAPE 6 : Approximately 1.75 hours steel-its composition and characteristics. encompasses every facet of lathe work SUBJECT MATTER: A demonstration of encountered in the clock shop. Produced wheel cutting using clear plastic and a TAPE 16: Approximately 1.50 hours in conjunction with a series of drawings Mosley watchmakers lathe. Huckabee cuts SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee presents which are provided by AWi when you four gears such as those required in the AWi an in-depth discussion about hairsprings. borrow the first tape in the series. Upon certification examination. He also demonstrates how to vibrate a clock completion of the work you have a set of hairspring. excellent useable lathe accessories for use TAPE 7 : Approximately 1.75 hours in your shop. SUBJECT MATTER: The Birge & Mallory TAPE 17: Approximately 1.75 hours Striker Clock-a complete study and anal­ SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee goes through TAPES 35 & 36: Approximately 2 hours each ysis of the Birge & Mallory Striker and the the process of making a knurled nut, one SUBJECT MATTER: Two tapes wh ich clock with its strap plates and roller pinions, Ii ke those used as hand nuts in Early Amer­ demonstrate the use of the lathe accessories circa 1841. ican kitchen clocks. He demonstrates a produced in the Series 30-34. This en­ simple way to knurl the nut. compasses all facets of pivot work encoun­ TAPE 8 : Approximately 2 hours tered in the clock shop. SUBJECT MATTER: Making a great wheel TAPE 18: Approximately 1.75 hours and mounting the great wheel on its arbor. SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee demon­ TAPE 37: Approximately 2 hours strates the process of inserting a tooth SUBJECT MATTER: A companion tape TAPE 9: Approximately 1.75 hours into a clock wheel to replace a broken or to the Huckabee book "How to Build a SUBJECT MATTER: Making and fitting a damaged tooth. Regulator Clock." All components and replacement pinion for a clock wheel. details for their construction are discussed in detail . It is recommended that the viewer TAPE 19: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 10: Approximately 1.50 hours have the book at hand when viewing this SUBJECT MATTER: Pivot work in the SUBJECT MATTER: Correcting problems tape. American antique Sessions , count wheel , caused by an elongated pivot hole by bush­ and clock movement. ing with a solid bushing and the use of a "preacher" to relocate center distance. TAPE 20: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 11 : Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Continuation of work SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee discusses with the Sessions clock used in Tape 19. the I BM #37 Master Clock Movement and Complete restoration work on the move­ IBM 90 Series Clock Movement. ment and treating a worn great wheel .

Horological Times/September 1994 63 '--~~D~a_te_s_to~R_e_m_e_m_b_e_r~~-----'11~ ~A_d~In_d_e_x~~ SEPTEMBER 1994 14-16--Illinois State Watchmakers Asso­ 19-23-Project Extend, Watch VIII, ciation Annual Convention, Keller Con­ Blue Ridge Machinery ...... 18 "Preparation for AWi's CMW Exam"; vention Center, Effington, Illinois. James E. Lubic, instructor.* Borel ...... 5 17-19-Project Extend, Lathe Course; 24-25- Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Roy Hovey, instructor.* Course (AWi); James Williams, instruc­ Butterworth ...... 6 tor; Columbus, Ohio.* 22-23-Florida State Watchmakers Asso­ ciation Convention, Orlando, Florida. Cas-Ker ...... inside back cover 24-28-International Jewelry & Watch Fair, Shanghai Center, Shanghai, China. 30-Regular meeting, North Carolina Chronos ...... 21 Watchmakers Association. Contact Alice 26-30-Project Extend, "Basic Jewelry Carpenter at (919) 823-2944. Deutche Optik ...... 19 Repair"; Marshall Richmond, instructor.* NOVEMBER 1994 OCTOBER 1994 3-Regular meeting, Minnesota Clock­ Esslinger ...... inside front cover 1-2-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench makers Guild. Contact Kern Schwartz at Course; James E. Williams, AWi instruc­ (507) 376-6675. ETA SA ...... 3 tor. Held in conjunction with NAWCC Regional, Fredrick, MD. Contact AWi 8-Regular meeting, Watchmakers Asso­ Eveready ...... 7 Central; Clyde Berger (301) 898-3057; or ciation of New Jersey. Contact John Sokol NAWCC Headquarters.* at (718) 698-7566, or Henry Frystak at Gem City ...... 43 (908) 486-8347. 3-7-Project Extend, Clock VI, "Applied Skills in Specific Clock Repair Opera­ Kaben ...... 59 tions"; John Nagle, instructor.* *For more information on AWi S. LaRose ...... 27 Bench Courses, Project Extend, 6-Regular meeting, Minnesota and Regional Seminars, contact Clockmakers Guild. Contact Kern AWi Central, P.O. Box 11011, Livesay's ...... 11 Schwartz at (507) 376-6675. 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincin­ Maxell ...... 9 7-9-56th annual New York State Watch­ nati OH 45211; (513)661-3838; makers Association Convention, Holiday Fax (513) 661-3131. Mccaw ...... 33 Inn, Waterloo, New York.

11-Regular meeting, Watchmakers As­ Newall ...... 55 sociation of New Jersey. Contact John Sokol at (718) 698-7566, or Henry Precision Crystal...... 31 Frystak at (908) 486-8347. Plymouth ...... 31

S&G ...... 59 Support The AWi-ELM TRUST SMEA ...... 23 SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM Twin City ...... 13 BY SENDING YOUR OLD United Tool ...... 55 WATCH BATTERIES TO THE Vibrograf ...... 15 AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE What-i-use ...... 25 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Witschi ...... 17

64 Horological Times/September 1994 Assortment CKX-100 includes 100 Crystals in these sizes: 14.0 14.5 15.0 15.5 15.9 16.0 16.5 16.9 17.0 17.5 17.9 18.0 18.4 18.5 18.9 19.0 19.1 19.2 19.5 19.9 20.0 20.1 20.4 20.5 21 .0 21.5 22.0 22.5 22.9 23.0 23.1 23 .5 24.0 24.5 24.6 24.9 25.0 25. 1 25.2 25.3 25.4 25.5 25.6 25.7 25.8 25.9 26.0 26. 1 26.2 26.3 26.4 26.5 26.6 26.7 26.8 26.9 27.0 27.1 27.2 27.3 27.4 27.5 27.6 27.7 27.8 27.9 28.0 28.1 28.2 28.3 28.4 28.5 28.6 28.7 28.8 28.9 29.0 29.1 29.2 29.3 29.4 29.5 29.6 29.7 29.8 29.9 30.0 30.1 30.2 30.4 30.5 31.0

144 piece Spring Bar ~ Assorttnent CK-855 Contains 12 sizes Double Flange Stainless Steel Spring Bars in a plastic compartment box. Sizes: 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, lfl*YA'UI 19 and 20 mm. No.CK-85S $19.95 with each Assortment CKX·100 CK-855 $19.95

2121 SPRING GROVE AVENUE PO BOX 14069 1994-95 A WI BENCH COURSES To register for these courses, please send with your request a registration fee of $50.00 per instruction day (A WI members) to: AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be selected by the EARLIEST POSTMARKS. You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard number, card expiration date, and signature. FAX (513) 661-3131 -- INFORMATION (513) 661-3838

SEPTEMBER 1994 FEBRUARY 1995 (cont'd) 9-12 Lathe Course (Phase 1) Austin, TX 11-12 Basic Pocket Watch Repair Austin, TX 11 Servicing the ET A Quartz Chronograph Oklahoma City, OK 12 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair San Francisco, CA 16-17 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair San Antonio, TX* 25-26 400-Day Clock Repair Baltimore, MD 17-18 StrikingClocks Tucson, AZ* 17-18 Basic Pocket Watch Repair Tucson, AZ* MARCH1995 18 Clock Wheel & Barrel Repair Speedway, IN* 4-5 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair San Francisco, CA 24-25 Cuckoo Clock Repair Columbus, OH 10-13 Lathe Course (Phase Ill) Denver, CO 25-26 Hairspring Vibrating Springfield, IL OCTOBER 1994 25-26 Introduction to Clock Repair Raleigh, NC 1-2 Cuckoo Clock Repair Frederick, MD* 7-10 Lathe Course (Phase II) Austin, TX APRIL 1995 8-9 Hairspring Vibrating Birmingham, AL 1-2 Basic Pocket Watch Repair Raleigh, NC 21 Introduction to the Watchmakers Lathe Orlando, FL• 22-23 Cuckoo Clock Repair Raleigh, NC 30 Servicing the ET A Quartz Chronograph Albuquerque, NM 22-23 400-Day Clock Repair Savannah, GA 29-30 Repair of the Atmos Clock Sault Ste. Marie, MI NOVEMBER 1994 3-4 Striking Clocks Minneapolis, MN* MAY1995 4-7 Lathe Course (Phase II) Denver, CO 6-7 Hairspring Vibrating Philadelphia, PA 12-14 Mechanical Watch Repair Denver, CO JANUARY1995 22 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair Raleigh, NC JUNE 1995 1-2 Cuckoo Clock Repair Minneapolis, MN FEBRUARY 1995 10-13 Lathe Course (Phase III) Austin, TX 11-12 Repair of the Atmos Clock Phoenix, AZ •Held in conjunction with a convention

/'COURSES &INSTRUCTORS Mechanical Chronographs Modem Mechanical Chronographs Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Mechanical Watch Repair Remy Waelchli Robert Bishop, CMEW James Lubic The Watch/Clockmakers Lathe Course Basic Pocket Watch Cuckoo Clock Repair Roy Hovey Alice Carpenter, CMW, CMEW James Williams, CC Phase I: Basic Lathe & Accessories Phase II: Mounting Wheels, Arbors, & Introduction to Clock Repair 400-Day Clock Repair Staff Blanks Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair Striking Clocks Phase III: Staffs, Repivoting, Jewel Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW John Nagle Setting; Bushings, Lantern Pinions, & the Jacot Tool Advanced Clock Repair SeIVicing ETA Quartz Chronographs (Please contact A WI Central for more Roland Iverson, CMC James Broughton, CMEW, FAWI detailed course outline.)

Repair of the Atmos Clock Hairspring Vibrating Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI Joseph Cerullo, CMW, CMC

1994-95 A WI PROJECT EXTEND CLASSES To register for these courses, please send with your request a registration fee of$50.00 per instruction day (AWi members) to: AWI Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please inlude your Visa or MasterCard number, card expiration date, and signature. FAX (513) 661-3131 -- INFORMATION (513) 661-3838

SEPTEMBER 1994 FEBRUARY1995 MAY1995 12-16 Watch IV James Lubic 6-10 Beginning Horology James Lubic 1-5 Watch II James Lubic 19-23 Watch VIII James Lubic 13-17 Machine Shop Practices Ron DeCorte 8-12 Clock I J. Lachapelle 26-30 Basic Jewelry Repair M.Richmond 15-19 Clock Case Repair Jim Williams MARCH1995 OCTOBER 1994 20-Apr. 1 Lathe Course (12-day) Roy Hovey JUNE 1995 3-7 Clock V1 John Nagle 5-9 Quartz I Gerald Jaeger 17-29 Lathe Course (12-day) Roy Hovey APRIL 1995 12-16 Quartz II Bob Bishop 24-28 Watch I A. Carpenter