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TM HOROLOGICAL

Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute 6

FRED BURCKHARDT THE PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE 4 Good-bye

HENRY 8. FRIED QUESTIONS & ANSWERS Fitting 6 1890 Era Silver Swiss Quartz JOE CROOKS BENCH TIPS 10 When Rust Gets You Down .. . Crystals MARVIN E. WHITNEY ELAPSED TIME CLOCKS 12 Part 11, Principles of Operation 16 WES DOOR SHOP TALK 16 Crystal Presses

ARCHIE 8. PERKINS TECHNICALLY WATCHES 18 Antique Watch Restoration, Part VII Working

RALPH GEIGER WATCHES INSIDE AND OUT 22 Regulating a Verge and Fusee Watch With Steel

ORVILLE R. HAGANS IN THE SPOTLIGHT 24 Unknown Father of the Talkes 30

MARSHALL F. RICHMOND PICKLE BARREL 26 Repairing Stone Settings, Part 111

EDGAR CLEVES, JR. GEMSTONES DEPARTMENTS 28 Organic Gems Readers Write/9 Book Review/21 New Members/25 AW I Bench Courses/33 Battery News/37 Association News/38 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American New Products and Literature/40 Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for $40.00 per year ($4.50 News in the Trade/44 per copy in the United States and $50.00 per year; $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.). Second class Classified Ads/46 postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O . Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Advertisers' lndex/48 Dates to Remember/48 FELLOWS OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE George Daniels Orville R. Hagans Henry B. Fried Hamilton E. Pease Josephine F. Hagans Marvin E. Whitney £.yecutil'e and Editorial Offices

AWi Central P.O. Box 11011 Editorial 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 She was a grand person. Just as fine an individual as she was, her watch and clockmaking skills were even finer. It made no difference whether a pin lever one jewel travel alarm Telephone: (513) 661-3838 needed a bushing, or an alarm clock needed a plastic knob replaced, or a Hong Kong LCD needed zebra strips cared for; there was no job that she could not repair or would Harold J. Herman: Editor not accept for repair. Regina Stenger: Associate Editor Claire now works for a large corporation that manufactures jet engines. It was necessary Donna Baas: Production Director that she change occupations for economic reasons. By her own admission, the challenge is gone. The present position is somewhat repetitive, but work pressures are minimal.

Sue Scott: Business Manager Carefully plan your watch/clock repair business so that you accept profitable work. Take Mildred Howard: Circulation Manager care to graciously decline unprofitable work. Keep the challenge. Margie M. Brater: Circulation

Technical Editors: UP FRONT David G. Arnold Wes Door e are pleased to report that :,everal new books published by AWI are about to William Biederman Henry B. Fried W come off of the presses. These are: James H. Broughton Orville R. Hagans The Watch Repairer's Manual, Henry B. Fried. This is the 4th edition of this Fred S. Burckhardl Ewell D. Hartman classic book which is frequently used as the textbook for courses in watch and clock Edgar "Nick·· Cleves Robert A. Nelson repair. Steven G. onover Archie B. Perkins In addition to revising some of the original material in the text, Mr. Fried has written six entirely new chapters which are included in this edition. These chapters Joe Crooks Marshall F. Richmond cover case setting & winding systems, motor barrels & jeweled main wheels, the verge fusee watch, repairing fusee chains, how to make a verge (staff), and the duplex escape­ A WI Officers: ment. Many of the illustrations in previous editions have been improved upon insofar as clarity of reproduction is concerned. Fred S. Burckhardt: President AWI is currently taking orders for this 4th edition. Send check or money order William Biederman, CMW: 1st V.P. made to A WI Press in the amount of $27 .00. Deliveries will be made about mid-July. David G. Arnold, CMC: 2nd V.P. Robert F. Bishop: Secretary How to Repair Herschede Tubular Bell Clocks, Steven G. Conover. This book is Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS: Treasurer a comprehensive guide to servicing these rather complicated, extremely valuable, Amer­ ican-made floor clocks (Grandfather clocks). This book includes original art expertly created by the author along with photos A WI Directors: and history of the production of Herschede Tubular Bell Clocks. Printed on quality pa­ per to insure excellent reproduction of the detail of Mr. Conover's drawings, the book James Adams, CMW can be purchased in advance from AWi Press for $12.95. Orders are being taken now, Otto Benesh, CMC with delivery expected to be in early July. Joe Crooks Wes Door, CMW ******* Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI Orville R. Hagans, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI BATTERIES Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS With the price of silver at low ebb, the profitability of selling used batteries direct is not Robert M. Leach, CMC as rewarding as it once was. Howard L. Opp, CEWS Members of the Board of Trustees of the A WI ELM Trust would like to ask you to donate your used batteries to the Trust. The profit made from their sale will support Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC the work of the ELM Trust which operates the Museum and Library. Donations are tax deductible. David H. Fryday: Affiliate Chapter Director Robert L. Howell: Research and Education BATTERY EMERGENCIES Council Director (REC) Remember to keep the Battery Medical Emergency number handy: Marshall F. Richmond: Past President (202) 625-3333 The National Capital Poison Center can give local medical personnel proper tech­ Milton C. Stevens: Executive Secretary niques for handling a battery medical emergency. Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director

Reprinting end reproduction Is p,rohibited without per­ ON THE FRONT-This lovely pink gladiolus mi11ion from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copy­ was photographed by Laurence R. King of right © 1986 by the American Watchmakers Institute. Sidney, New York.

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July 1986/ Horological Times 3 Fred S. Burckhardt

ue to the mix-up last month, this is positive­ of such great help to me these past two years. There's [p) ly, absolutely the last "President's Message" no sense in mentioning names again-they know who you'll receive from me! Whatever I said in they are. last month's column goes double for this month. To the new president, I wish the best and By the time you read this column, a new president hope he or she receives the support, cooperation and will have been elected ... so by now, whenever my has the friendly atmosphere that I've experienced name is mentioned, the question will be "Fred who?" during my time in office. Once again, thanks to all those who have been

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MOVEMENT NO. DIM. THICK. PRICE MOVEMENT ND. PRICE MOVEMENT ND. DIM. nntK. 1'1!1CE MM .. (MMI llllMI Armitron 55.!/D 25.50 s.qo, FHF PUW 532 15.30x17.80 3.60 $16.00 202.001 9.00x 19.40 2.25 $22.00 683A 32003 15.20x17.BO 3.50 $16.00 (ALARM I 25.50 3.60 $16.00 Handok B20 24 .00x27 .20 3.20 $30.00 B01 27 .00x27 .00 3.50 $30.00 BFG BBB 30.BO 5.50 $16.00 Harley/ 377 25.60 4.25 $16.00 900 15.30x 17 .BO 2.50 $16.00 Ronda R377 25.60 4.25 $16.00 910 15.30x17.BO 2.50 $16.00 EJ 30 27.10 6.80 $16.00 (DAY AT 12:001 672 15.30x17 .BO 3.25 $16.00 Remex 6641 25.60 4.00 $16.00 ESA 551.111 17 .20 2.95 $16.00 872 19.40 4.00 $16.00 1910 25.25 3.00 $12.00 555.412 23.30 2.75 $16.00 R1177 25.60 5.20 $16.00 561 .101 15,30x17.BO 2.75 $16.00 R1377 29.00 6.00 $16.00 Rico 5BO 26.00 4.80 $16.00 579.001 15.30x17.80 2.75 $16.00 3572 13.00x15.15 2.70 $16.00 0190 26.10 4.00 $18.00 900.911 25.60 4.30 $18.00 3672 15.30x17.BO 2.BO $16.00 900.231 26.10 4.20 $18.00 3772 23.30 2.60 $16.00 Seiko V230 13.00x15.00 2.50 $14.00 927.102 13.00x15.15 2.90 $16.00 3972 25.60 2.60 $14.00 V236 13.00x15.00 3.00 $14.00 928.411 23.30 2.75 $16.00 3975 25.60 2.90 $12.00 Y112 15.30x17.BO 3.00 $13.00 935.312 23.30 4.50 $16.00 Y121 15.30x17.BO 3.00 $13.00 940.111 2B.OO 3.70 $16.00 HW 8572 19.70 4.25 $16.00 Y432 13.00x15.15 2.37 $18.00 944.111 25.60 3.10 $16.00 8567 23.70 4.80 $16.00 Y432 (CIRCUIT BOAR DI $7.00 944.132 25.60 3.60 $16.00 Y480 15.00x17,80 2.90 $16.00 944.132 (DAY AT 12:00) $16.00 Miyota 2005 18.20 4.00 $16.00 Y481 15.00x17.BO 2.90 $16.00 $16.00 960.111 25.60 4.50 $16.00 2025 15.30x 17 .BO 3.10 Y481 (CIRCUIT BOARDI $7.00 961.001 15.30x17.80 3.50 $11.95 2035 3.10 $16.00 Y573 25.90 4.50 $16.00 $16.00 961.101 15.30x17.BO 4.10 $11.95 2105 4.00 Y590 13.00x15.10 3.30 $16.00 963.115 25.60 3.50 $16.00 ~.00 S16.00 965.112 19.40 3.80 $16.00 ~ 965.312 23.30 3.80 $13.00 2Y50 13.00x15.10 2.80 $16.00 9182 29.00 5.75 $16.00 3N20 13.00x15.10 2.60 $16.00 9222 15.30x17.BO 4.60 $13.95 3T10 18.00 3.00 $16.00 Quartz Watch Repair Training Course The Ultimate In: The Three Day Hands On Quartz Watch Repair Course is a Quartz Watch Dry thorough, indepth, technical review of all types of quartz watches. Dusting Systems. The course emphasizes the basic principles and similarities between all types of quartz watches and the practical application Dust-Off* II of the fundamentals to everyday quartz watch problems. The electronic circuits of the Quartz Analog, Digi-ana and the LCD are thoroughly examined and tested. Each component is visually inspected under the microscope. Their functions and location in the watch are well illustrated with microscopic color TUITION INCLUDES: slides. Although the emphasis is on testing. troubleshooting, • Digital Watch Repair Manual Vol. I •Quartz Watch Repair Manual Vol. II and locating the problem, many repair techniques are actually • Business Plan Folder performed by the students, such as, soldering - desoldering, •The use of all test equipment circuit board cleaning, and conductive epoxy repairs. Each •Testing of quartz movements & components student receives individual attention and close supervision by • Lunch daily Mr. Zanoni and his expert staff. •Transportation to and from Townhouse Motel and Zantech, Inc. The next training class will be held on Aug. 25, 26 & 27 Tuition S450 •Unlimited telephone consultation "Replacing Quartz Watch Batteries" COIL REPAIR KIT on Video Tape. Price .....$95.00 LEARN BATTERY REPLACEMENT THE Wire-bond conductive epoxy WB001 is a two part silver CORRECTWAV with this step-by-step 50 filled, electrically conductive epoxy which hardens at minute video tape, "Replacing Quartz room temperature in a few hours after mixing. Its very Watch Batteries". The tape illustrates in high electrical conductivity and putty-like properties microscopic detail all of the necessary make it suitable for repairing fine broken wires such as methods and techniques for easy and coll and motor wires of electronic watches, and any profitable battery replacement. It applies other broken wire or solder joint, small or large. to all major types and brands of quartz watches, including SEIKO, PULSAR, ARMITRON, CASIO, TIMEX, etc. The tape illustrates the most common mistakes made by sales clerks when replacing watch batteries, and most Complete Kit No. WB001 ••••••••••••••••• $24.95 importantly, shows how to avoid them. The training program was written, A & B Epoxy Rellll1 No. WB002 •••••••••••• $19.95 directed and produced by Louis and Greg Zanoni, prominent consultants and Video Tape ln1tructlon1 •••••••••••••••••• $ 9.95 instructors in quartz watch technology. It is sponsored by Maxell Corp. of America, a leading manufacutrer of batteries and magnetic recording tapes.

77 SHADY LANE• TRENTON, NEW JERSEY 08819 • (809) 588-5088 800 441-7569 Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI

1890 Era Silver Swiss

I am sending you some photos is also of that period and just about ten Q of a watch I hope you can years before that. identify. It is open face, but has They were then called jump two back covers. The serial numbers and hour watches. The stamping on the inside marks are the same on both covers. of the case back cuvette is not a kangaroo One of the marks appears to be a kan- but a grouse which indicates the 0.800 garoo. silver content of the case, a less than I'm interested in the date of the Sterling quality. The grouse indicates watch, where it was made/sold (what also that this hallmark was used between 1880 and 1934. This also strengthens the date of manufacture of your watch. The watch was made near Locle in western Switzerland, near Neuchatel and the French border. country), and any other facts you can The movement contains six offer. If there is a book or other refer­ jewels and uses the cylinder escapement, ence, I would be very happy to pay one reserved for the modest priced for same. watches. The case is silver in color. There is purportedly a Scottish hallmark in the case cover. The face is digital, hours, The clock repairman who put and minutes, with a small sweep second a new pulley in my grand­ hand. There is thick heavy gold filigree Q father clock told me you might on the face, and the following words: be able to tell me about the origin of it. "THE GRAND G. T. BREVETTE" It has the name Eli Bentley on running from 10 to 2 o'clock the face. I went to the library and found One repairman thought the that Eli Bentley, a clockmaker and silver­ watch might have been a "prototype" smith, was born in 1752 in West White­ because it had a combination of features land, Pennsylvania and died in Taney­ that he had never seen in one watch town, Maryland in 1822. before. The clock is about 90 inches I appreciate any help you can high. The weight is very heavy and of offer. crude looking material. I think the wood Christos A. Vavura is black walnut and there is a split in the Albany, NY wood at the base. There are pink flowers Your photos reveal a silver, at the top and corners of the face. It Swiss watch of the 1890 era. strikes and runs for eight days. A These were made in some I would appreciate very much quantities. The stem wind and pin setting (Please turn to page 8)

6 Horological Times/July 1[}86 Quartz Movements• Over 90 Calibers in Stock! Call or Write for Complete Listing and Free ESA Battery Guide . BULOVA• ESA • EBAUCHE •FE - .Hnrel.

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July 1986/Horological Times 7 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS (Continued from page 6) makers. Eli's cases were walnut according The case has nothing on it. to Mr. Gibbs. The book also says that J.A. Williams Eli sold his property in Chester Coun(y in Carlsbad, NM any help you can give me regarding 1783. He had bought land in Taneytown, its origin or where I can find out more Maryland in 1 779. His productive years about it. in Taneytown covered 20 years. Eleanor E. Loops According to Mr. Gibbs, Eli's Milwaukee, WI brother, Caleb, worked in York, Penn­ Your clock is an 1897 model sylvania. Caleb became affluent as a Waltham. The low serial number clockmaker who also settled in Maryland A isn't really complete. There Eli Bentley is one of the lesser in 1794. should be additional digits added to it known clockmakers. However, or preceding it. Such watches were A my own searches show that he produced by Waltham for export, most was born Febrnary 16, 1752. With his This is my first letter to the often to England where they had an ex­ brother Caleb, he might have been Q "Questions and Answers" col­ cellent acceptance. trained as a clockmaker by his cousin, umn. I enjoy it very much Your movement is 14 size and Thomas Shields of Philadelphia, Penn­ each month. is shown in various Waltham catalogs as sylvania. There is a record of eight of I have a 16/s Waltham clock the 1897 14 size (one day). It is not his clocks-one a I-day timekeeper which I would appreciate if you could 16 size. This model movement was made and seven 8-day clocks. Most were plain give me an idea of its age. The move­ from 189 7 up to the end of World War I. but his later clocks were more ornate ment is 16/s, 7 jewel, stem wind and Yours appears to me to date near the end with moon phase action in the dial's set. The production number is 193,340. of the World War 1 era and again most archway. The dial is 22/size. My records on the dif­ likely was for export and probable use in Mr. Gibbs, in his book on ferent movements does not show any the military. The terms ENSIGN or Pennsylvania Clockmakers, says that as a 16/s or 18/s (not an 8-day) with train BEACON occasionally appear in these Baptist, Eli wasn't restricted to simple bridges like this one. There are no names special export models. designs on his clocks as were Quaker or figures except the movement number. Henry B. Fried 'UClli

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8 Horological Times/July 1986 is no longer practical to use solder tips and the setting should be repronged. Our Readers Write Your suggestion on using harder solder as it is easier to control sounds practical, and I am sure that you have ex­ perimented with it. Generally I try and put cautions in my articles when results are questionable. In this particular article I wish to comment on the "Pickle Barrel" article in it was overlooked, so in my next article I will try to point the May '86 issue of Horological Times. I have no quarrel with these out. the basic techniques that Mr. Richmond suggests, but I do Thank you for taking the time to write and share question the wisdom of suggesting that the reader go ahead your knowledge and experience with your fellow craftsmen. and tip sapphires and rubies. Marshall F. Richmond It has been my experience that sapphires that have been heat-treated are very susceptible to shattering if a torch is put to them. I have had several do this to me and I no longer I enjoy the Times so much I thought a thank-you was solder close to a sapphire without removing it. I have not even in order. I graduated from Bowman Tech in the early '50s and tried tipping a ruby as I do not care for the expense of replace­ operated the family business until I sold out and retired about ment. I know that there is no published research on this sub­ 4 years ago. I have a very complete repair shop here at home ject and at the AGA conference at Tuscon this year I asked where I like to "tinker" and repair friends' watches and clocks. Cap Beesley if he was aware of the problem. He had not come I have had the pleasure of repivoting a Patek as well as working across it, but then his research is not geared to the jeweler's on many other very fine mechanical watches here at home. I bench. There was at least one other member of the AGA who believe I could work 12 hours a day if I wanted to, but only had found the same thing and he too removes all color stones take what is appealing to me. Mostly that is mechanicals, al­ before working on the item. As 95% of all sapphires and rubies though I have worked on some quartz movements. on the market today have been heat-treated, I would suggest I was very disappointed to find that material for Ac­ that you advise your readers to be very careful and not to get cutrons is becoming hard to find. With proper service I think heat near sapphires in particular unless they know for certain these fine watches could be around for many years. that the stone has not been heat-treated. For the record, my_ father graduated from Bowman's It would appear that the prolonged high temperature in 1920. Also, I was a CMW with the HIA, having taken the to which the stones are subject causes anyone of a number of tests at the bureau of standards in Washington. There is lit­ things to happen within the stone. It is possible that there is erally no end in sight to those who want to work on older some change in the crystal lattice, also some inclusions are movements as long as they are particular and able to repair­ redissolved and sometimes reprecipitated; sometimes new in­ not simply replace-parts. Please keep up the articles about clusions appear within the stone, Beesley's "snowballs." All the old mechanical watches. of this appears to subject the stone to internal stress that was Robert S. Roll not there before, and when the torch is put to the stone this Clintonville, Pennsylvania stress causes the stone to shatter. There is one other suggestion I would make to help those just beginning to do tipping: use the hardest solder avail­ able as it does not flow as readily and the flow can be con­ IT'S FRESH OFF trolled more easily with heat. I suggest the use of AA or 19 THE PRESS! ... or 20 weld for white gold. Also, if this is used for ring sizing, it does not undercut when polishing. Steven G. Conover's Peter Bradley How to Repair Herschede Ft. Myers , Florida Tubular Bell Clocks

Guide to service the famous The articles that I write for the HT are written from floor clock. Printed on qual­ ity paper. Contains 22 pho­ over 30 years of experience and very little research. I would be tos, 25 ills., 70 pp. lost in trying to explain the chemistry in any gemstones and it 95 seems that you agree that there has been no published research $12 postpaid on this problem of heat application to color stones. We seem to have had different experience in applying heat to sapphires, .. AWi------PRESS I P.O. Box 11011 so maybe I've been lucky . .. although I've had one or two Make checks I small ones in multi-stone rings that did shatter. It has been my 3700 Harrison Avenue payable to AWi Cincinnati, OH' 45211 I experience that on cluster rings with small stones it is better I to chance having to replace one or two rather than remove all Please send me copy/copies of How to Repair Herschede I and have to put new prongs on most of the settings because Tubular Bell Clocks (Conover). I am enclosing$ I when straightening the prong ends many of them will break­ Ocheck Dmoney order D MasterCard OVisa I if not on the removal they will when resetting the stones. Charge # Exp. date I On larger and costlier stones you are right; these Signature______-- .I should be removed before applying heat. I have put heat on Name ______I many rubies, but the same rule applies only on small ones. Address I One thing that common sense tells me is that when an internal City ______State _____ Zip ___I inclusion is in a stone, if the coefficient of expansion is differ­ I ent than that of the stone, it could cause it to shatter or U.S. Funds only, please I change the internal structure. Now if the stone is removed it L-••••••••••••••••••••·-~

July 1986/Horo/ogical Times 9 l)enGh Tip&

Joe Crooks I

WHEN RUST GETS YOU DOWN ...

This month's tip comes from A.E. Taylor of Lexington, KY. drill (I like the 10 ; the hole will not be noticed). Drill four holes, 90 degr es apart at the edge of the eccentric nut for ere are some tips someone might use for rusted screws. the pa lie is or escape wheel. Drill just deep enough to go through It's silly, but it works. Use Sloan's liniment to loosen the rim of the eccentric nut. Do this on both sides. Drop a screws that are rusty. Put the liniment on the rusty little oil in each hole, oil two or three times. You'll find you H can turn the nut without damaging the slot. Also, get an off­ screw, let it soak. Add more when the rust looks a little dry. Keep adding and let it soak. Gently try to turn the screw, and set screwdriver, the solid one with four offset heads. It is bet­ if it won't move, don't force it but add more liniment. It ter than a regular screwdriver. You may need to round the tips doesn't matter to the movement how wet you get it. I have slightly so the screwdriver will fit deeper in the screw slot. By already removed screws from a Rolex that had been subject­ firmly pressing the screwdriver in the slot, you can move the ed to sea water for a period of three weeks. The screws had to eccentric nut as small as you want to. be replaced, but I was able to remove them without breaking off the screw heads. Then I just cleaned in the usual way. Mr. Taylor no doubt has had considerable success This will also work on screwback cases. At the edge with Sloan's Liniment over the years. But then a watch rusted place some liniment around where the back joins the case. as badly as he describes needs a medical cure. Word has it that Add more-three or four times-and you will find that the Hoppe's #9 rust remover and gun lubricant does a great job, back can be screwed off without any trouble. For an eccen­ too. tric nut on 400-day clocks use a 14-12 or Number 10 pivot

Send your tips to: Jingle Joe, AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio 45211.

Screwdriver tips removed. eccentric nut Tips may be rounded , drilling Rounded is best.

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Stock Stock Stock Stock No. 10001 No. 10002 No. 10003 No. 10004 VISA and MASTERCARD ACCEPTED For dials up to For dials up to For dials up to For dials up to (Minimum order $15.00) 3/16" thick. 1/4" thick. 3/8" thick. 3/4" thick. ORDER BY PHONE: 9-4 CT Weekdays; Illinois (800) 972-3776. Other states (except Alaska, Hawaii) (800) 621-4767. *ORDER .fbRSHALL BY MAIL: P.O. Box 726, Chicago, IL 60690. - -~WART CHILD CHICAGO, IL 60647: 2040 Ml LWAUKEE AVE., 312-278-2300 • DALLAS, TX 75201: 109 N. AKARD, 214-741-1454 HOUSTON, TX 77001: 1212 MAIN ST., 713-759-9009 •SEATTLE, WA 98101: 1425 4th AVE., 206-682-6158

July 7986/Horological Times 11 Elapsed

Ti111e Cloeks PART II

Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI Much of this material dealing with technical aspects comes from "The Navy Bureau of Aeronautics Manual" on the Elgin-Hamilton Elapsed Time Clock. It has been rewritten for the correction of errors and to promote greater understandability, such as nomenclature, etc. All photos courtesy U .S. Air force.

Principles of Operation

he elapsed time clock was housed in a flanged case The elapsed time minute and hour hands operated (Figure 1), fabricated from black bakelite. The move­ over a 12-hour orbit at the bottom (12 o'clock) position, ment was supported by three Phillips recessed head which was graduated in minutes with numerals indicating each sc1ews1f which extended through counterbored holes in the hour from 1 to 12. back of the case and were anchored in support studs screwed The civil date indication appeared on a small 31-day into the top side of the top plate of the movement. orbit at the left (18 o'clock) position, with numerals showing The crystal was retained in a bezel which was fas­ each 5-day graduation. tened to the case well by eight small Phillips head screws The minute register hand of the chronograph me­ through the rear of the case flange. It was provided with chanism operated over a 60-minute orbit at the top (24 a crystal spacer and fibrated leather gaskets to seal the move­ o'clock) position, and was graduated in minutes with numerals ment against dust, dirt, and moisture. The bezel assembly at each 5-minute graduation. The large sweep second hand of contained both the chronograph push button and the civil the same chronograph mechanism was center-pivoted in front date setting control button. These buttons, in turn, were or on top of the regular continuously running hour and spaced by the bezel to contact their respective control plung­ minute hands and operated over the same dial orbit as the ers on the dial side of the movement. hour and minute hands. The winding and setting arbor which was a part of The dial had a black background with printed gradu­ the movement extended horizontally beyond the front of the ations and numerals. Munsell green 6/6 paint was applied to clock through a hole in the bezel. Assembled to the protruding the minute and second, the elapsed time, civil date gradua­ arbor was the winding and setting knob, integral with which tions, and to the odd hour numerals. Yellow fluorescent was the elapsed time push button. material was applied to the even hour graduations and nu­ The back of the case was provided with a plastic merals and to the 5-minute graduations of the minute register screw plug which could be removed to provide an opening dial. Correspondingly, the continuously running second, for access to the regulator of the clock. The case (complete elapsed time, and civil date hands were green; and the hour, with movement) was secured to the airplane instrument panel minute, center second, and minute register hands were treated by two Phillips recessed head mounting screws extending with yellow fluorescent material. It was, therefore, possible to through the panel into self-locking nuts. These self-locking see the time and chronograph readings when the yellow nuts were riveted to the case flange . fluorescent material was activated by suitable ultraviolet light.

DIAL AND HANDS THE CLOCK MOVEMENT (Figure 2) The continuously running hour and minute hands The time mechanism of the 8-day elapsed time operated over the orbit of the 24-hour dial. It graduated in clock consisted of the same four main assemblies as a typical minutes, employing large Arabic numerals for the even num­ watch movement-the power assembly, train assembly, escape­ bered hours from 2 to 10 and from 14 to 22; small Arabic ment and balance assembly, and dial train and winding me­ numerals for the odd numbered hours from 3 to 9 and from chanism. 15 to 21; and small numerals for the hours 12 and 24 at the The motive power for the clock was supplied by two botton and top of the dial, respectively. identical mainsprings which were housed in two barrels and The continuously running second hand operated over provided a running time of eight days. The teeth of the barrels a small 60-second orbit to the right at the 6 o'clock position. engaged the pinion of the intermediate train wheel. The teeth This dial was graduated in seconds with numerals showing of the intermediate train wheel engaged the pinion of the each 10-second graduation. center wheel, the gear ratio being such that the center wheel

12 Horological Times/July 1986 1 Dial 2 Hour Hand 3 Minute Hand 4 Center Seconds or Sweep Second Hand 5 Elapsed Time Hour Hand 6 ElapSed Time Minute Hand 7 Minute Register Hand 8 Second Hand 9 Civil Date Hand 10 Case Assembly 11 Case Body or Well ------lo 12 Bezel Gasket 13 Crystal Spacer or Relector Ring 14 Spacer Gasket 15 Crystal 16 Crystal Gasket 17 Bezel 18 Civil Date Plunger 19 Chronograph Push Button 22 Bezel Screw 20 Chronograph Push Button, 23 Screw Plug FIGURE 1 - Exploded view of the case, movement, dial, and Alternate (latter design change) 24 Panel Mounting Screw hands with index number and nomencalture. 21 Chronograph Push Button Screw 25 Movement Assembly

made one complete revolution each hour. The teeth of the were jeweled, and the regulator of the escapement and balance center wheel engaged the third wheel pinion and the teeth assemblies were located on the rear train side of the pillar of the third wheel engaged the fourth wheel pinion, the plate and were supported by typical escapement and balance gear ratio being such that the fourth wheel made one com­ cocks. These assemblies were clearly visible and easily acces­ plete revolution each minute. sible through a similarly shaped cut-out section of the top The movement carried 16 jewels, consisting of the plate. The balance vibrated 18 ,000 beats per hour, or five usual ones found in a 15-jewel watch, plus an additional hole times a second. jewel in the center seconds bridge which was located on the The wheels and pinions of the dial train assembly train side of the top plate to pivot the center seconds arbor. consisted of (see Figure 3): The escape wheel, pallet, and balance wheel, which l. A typical cannon pinion was set friction tight to the protruding center wheel post, next to the pillar plate. This THIRD WHEEL FOURTH WHEEL pinion carried the elapsed time drive wheel. 2. A typical minute wheel, which rotated on a stud to the lower left of the cannon pinion, was meshed with the MAINSPRING BARREL cannon pinion. This wheel was not visible from the front since it was between the pillar plate and the dial train bridge. 3. A typical hour wheel, which rests loosely over '-----PALLET the cannon pinion, carried an indexing pin for the civil date :;:-,..-----BALANCE ASSEMBLY mechanism. The setting wheel and intermediate setting wheel it~' .t q;"f'J---- eALANCE STAFF were pivoted between the winding arbor and the minute

BARREL ARBOR ,v..- ---- BALANCE cocir;; wheel. These wheels were not visible from the front as they were located behind the dial train bridge. The minute hand FIGURE 2 Schematic diagram of the power, train, escape- was affixed to the cannon pinion and the tube of the hour ment, and balance mechanisms. wheel carried the hour hand.

July 1986/Horologica/ Times 13 The winding mechanism consisted of a winding arbor, wheels and clutch, and two ratchet wheels which transmitted the torque of the winding knob to the mainspring barrel arbors. A click rode on the pillar nearest the left ratchet wheel and was held in position next to the wheel behind the pillar DRIVE WHEEL plate by a spacer on the pillar. An elapsed time control sleeve and cone were located on the winding arbor between the knob HEARTCAM -----~ INDEXING and the dial train bridge. LEVER • To the left, above the winding arbor, a civil date setting plunger extended through the pillar plate to the top HOUA WHEEL plate and carried a compression spring which served to return the plunger to its original position after it was depressed. A civil date disengaging arbor was supported above CONTROL CONE the setting plunger in such a position that its rear arm ex­ tended downward to contact the winding arbor near the top FIGURE 4 - Schematic diagram of the elapsed time mechanism plate and its front arm extended upward to contact a dis­ in the running position. engaging lever between the pillar plate and the setting bridge. When the winding knob was pulled out into the direction, the second winding wheel, clutch arbor, and clutch setting position, the pinion on the winding arbor engaged the were likewise held against rotation and only the first winding setting wheel. The setting wheel was in mesh with the inter­ wheel was free to rotate. The pressure of the detent spring mediate setting wheel which, in turn, was engaged with the against the cone portion of the winding arbor kept the knob minute wheel. Thus, the rotation of the winding knob in either and arbor steady in whichever position it was set. direction was transmitted through the minute wheel and cannon pinion to the minute hand, then through the minute THE SPECIAL FEATURES wheel pinion and hour wheel to the hour hand. The names of the various parts of the chronograph and/or calendar mechanism, like many parts in the horological CLICK CLICK SPRING CANNON PINION MINUTE HAND industry, were not standardized. One part was often identified by several names, varying according to the manufacturer's whims or locality. The elapsed time clock was no exception, for many of the names used to identify elapsed time parts were not terms generally known and used by the practical watch/clockmaker. However, the repairman could relate elapsed time nomenclature with that with which he was most familiar. WINDING CLUTCH For a clock of this type to function properly, it MINUTE WHEEL was necessary for each of the various levers to operate in i=IR$T WINOtNG WHEEL INTERMEDIATE sequence and at the precise moment. Hence, its function SETTING WHEEL

SECOND W•NOING depended largely on the coordination maintained between WHEEL the operation of the button and the operation of several levers. WINDING ARBOR ----' The elapsed time clock employed three distinct functions of starting, stopping, and returning to zero both in the elapsed time and chronograph mechanisms. These three successive operations were necessary to FIGURE 3 - Schematic diagram of the dial train, setting, and complete the cycle and were controlled by the column wheel, winding mechanisms. also known as the castle or pillar wheel. In this dissertation it will be refened to as the column wheel. When the winding knob was pushed into the winding The column wheel has 18 ratchet-shaped teeth and position (its normal position) the setting wheel was disengaged six perpendicular columns or pillars which govern the func­ and the pinion on the winding arbor engaged the first winding tion of the various levers. Since there are 18 teeth on the wheel, which was free to rotate on the winding clutch arbor. ratchet wheel, each column engaged with three teeth, thus The ratchet teeth on the base of this first winding wheel providing the three separate actions of start, stop, and return engaged the mating ratchet teeth on the winding clutch. to zero. The winding clutch was fitted over the rear square portion of the clutch arbor and held in position against the first winding THE ELAPSED TIME MECHANISM (Figure 4) wheel by the coil spring. In turn, the second winding wheel, The components of the elapsed time mechanism, which was fitted over the front square portion of the clutch located on the right dial side of the pillar plate, consisted of arbor, meshed with the two ratchet wheels on the mainspring a group of levers, wheels, cams, springs, etc., similar to those barrel arbors. of a typical stopwatch. Their position and action were con­ When the winding knob (in the winding position) trolled by the rotation of the columns on the elapsed time was turned in a clockwise direction, the rotation was trans­ column wheel, which in turn was actuated by the depression mitted through the first winding wheel, clutch, clutch arbor, of the elapsed time push button. With each depression of the and second winding wheel to the ratchet wheels which were button, the control cone moved one end of the indexing free to rotate in a clockwise direction. However, since the lever sufficiently to cause the indexing pawl on the other end ratchet wheels were held against reverse rotation by the click to turn the ratchet on the base of the column wheel clock­ when the winding knob was turned in a counterclockwise (Please turn to page 34)

14 Horological Times/July 1986 *AMERICAN MADE* QUARTZ CLOCK MOVEMENTS ANY QUANTITY AT ONE TREMENDOUSLY ~PRICE!!

iComplete with hands. $3.00 ea.

Shaft Lengths: Features: 3/16" SHAFT ORDER #020-52-932 • Brass mounting shaft measures 5/16" diameter. 1/4" SHAFT ORDER #020-52-933 • Uses one "AA" alkaline battery. • American I-Stack. 3/8" SHAFT ORDER #020-52-934 • The Ultra-Thin case measures only 2-1.4" H. x 2-1.4" W. x 5/8" Thin. 3/4' SHAFT ORDER #020-52-936 • Handy rear set knob. • Accurate to within 5 seconds per month. Price good on any quantity- call for · pricing on quantities over 100 movements! ASSORTED GOLD HOUR, MINUTE, & SECOND HANDS PROVIDED NO CHOICE OFFERED. CLOCK BATTERIES QUARTZ PENDULUM MOVEMENT ONLY Specifications:

• Small case size measuring: 3-1/8 "

H. x 2-1/8 " W. x 1-3/16" thick. $.50 ea. • Runs over one year on one "C" cell alkaline battery. • Accurate + or - 10 seconds/

month. Shaft diameter is 5/16". "AA" or "C" SIZE • Available for dial thickness 114 ". • Includes all mounting hardware ·c· Stock No. 500-50-014 and removable hanger. • Pendulum is 5/8" from front of •AA• Stock No. 500-50-015 case. Price Good on ANY Quantity!! • Pendulum measures 16" from center shaft to bottom of pen­ dulum. EMPIRE CLOCK INC. • Break off pendulum to any desired 1295 RICE ST. •ST. PAUL, MN 55117-4591 length. CUSTOMER SERVICE: 612-487-2885 • Pendulum swing at 16" length is 6114 ". SHIPPING & HANDLING EXTRA STOCK NO. 020 52-300

TOLL-FREE ORDER NUMBER *Hands Not Included 1-800-328-9620 MINNESOTA CUSTOMERS MAY Hands available $9.95* at an extra charge. CALL COLLECT AT Select from pages 612/487-2885 In Any Quantity 36-41 of our catalogue. The one-stop source for all of your clock repair needs!

July 1986/Horo/ogica/ Times 15 SHOPTALK

Wes Door

itting quartz crystals in watches can be just as easy If the crystal is glass, we must be very careful not as in other watches with the proper equipment. to break it. We might even want to protect its surface while f Some of our same "ole" crystal presses are very pressing it in by placing a selvyt or other fine cloth over it. adaptable for these quartz watch crystals. Figure 1-A shows If the bezel has a crystal gasket (i.e. a liner between the bezel such a press with a plug shown at "A" which we mount in and crystal) it is generally placed in the bezel first. The crystal the upper area of the press to fit plastic crystals for con­ is then pressed into this gasket until it rests on the gasket seat. ventional watches. These watches require a curved (or domed) If this type of crystal is for a brand name watch, the crystal crystal to clear the hands on older watches. When this crystal gasket may come with the crystal, but sometimes it is sold is domed during fitting and the bezel placed over it , the separately. pressure is then released and the crystal seats itself perfectly Fitting fancy shaped crystals, which include analog in the bezel groove. The crystal is slightly larger in diameter and especially digitals, starts with the removal of the old than the bezel. If the crystal can be turned by hand after crystal. On these we must use a lower die large enough to clear fitting it is too small. If it crazes or breaks it is too large. the bezel and one that matches the bezel shape as close as We are all familiar with this type of press, whether it possible. There are square dies available which may be used is a portable hand model like the one shown here, or a floor and also upper press plugs in rectangle shape to ease the job of model with a foot pedal which allows the freedom of both removing the old broken crystal. hands to hold the crystal in place while fitting. These presses At this point there is some good news and some bad were only used for plastic crystals in earlier times, but now news. The bad news is that there are not enough special dies can be modified to handle glass and even fancy shapes. available to fit all of the various sizes and shapes. The good

Figure 1

Figure 2 A-0-

16 Horological Times/July 1986 news is that we can make these in-between sizes in a few minutes by using something we alreay have-pithwood. It is once again available from our suppliers. By cutting away the top portion of a piece of pith­ wood, as shown in Figure 2, we have an ideal addition to our NEW set of crystal fitting tools. We may want to make several of these if the need dictates. A sharp razor blade is ideal for cutting through the diameter to reduce the upper portion to the needed shape. We must cut only the pithwood- not our fingers! This newly made pithwood plug may now be laid inside the upper die and an appropriate lower die chosen. This homemade pithwood die works great and we don't have to pick up 200 glass pieces from our bench apron or from the floor. In fitting a new crystal, it is best (and sometimes a must) to remove the movement (or module) from the case. Then we need to place the back on the case while fitting the CLOCK REPAIR CATALOGS A new series of repair aid catalogs with informa­ crystal with a press. If the back has a raised area (for power tion supplied by some of the major present day cell clearance) we must adjust for this with our lower die. manufacturers of clock movements. Each catalog If using a die which has a cut out area originally designed to represents a specific movement manufacturer and clear the stem, simply rotate the cut out area to match the provides much needed information enabling the power cell hump. clock repairman to identify different clock move­ ments and order replacement parts. More catalogs As in all our repair work, common sense prevails. are planned for the future. I'm glad we have pithwood again, and I hope you might find GEBR. JAUCH its use as a crystal removal aid benificial. Movements and parts catalog of most Gebr. Jauch move­ ments with identification features by photographs and movement numbers. Also included are movement and hand shaft measurement~. pendulum length and swing, weight sizes, winding arbor placement, etc. There are parts pages with parts names with certain movements. To save space, only selected movements are pictured in detail, but there is enough information to identify parts on other models. 8Y," x 11 "; soft cover; 64 pages. 055137 - Jauch Catalog ...... $8.00 each ORDER YOUR NEW COPY OF JOSEPH KIENINGER Al I of the present production Kieninger movements are The Watch listed and displayed by picture and model number. Each is pictured with a numbered exploded view and parts breakdown along with the correct part numbers (the Repairer's part name is also given - but in German) - movement sizes - pendulum lengths, description and swing - even recommended oiling information. 8W' x 11 " ; soft cover; Manual ..~1. 86 pages. FOURTH EDITION ~0 055138 - Kieninger ...... $8.00 each By Henry B. Fried FRANZ HERMLE CMW, CMC, FAW!, FBHI, *FNAWCC A wealth of information pertaining to the movements manufactured by Hermie, the largest maker of spring This greatly expanded edition covers the repair of watches from the wound and weight driven movements in the world. very simplest task to the repair of all types of mechanical watches. Six brand new chapters cover: case setting & winding systems, motor bar­ Exploded views show movements and parts with factory rels & jeweled main wheels, the verge fusee watch, repairing fusee numbers for identification. Pendulum length, weight chains, how to make a verge (staff), and the duplex escapement. It sizes and hand shaft lengths are given as well as parts contains over 550 illustrations; 456 pages. For the beginner, the trade watchmaker, hobbyist, collector, or anyone interested in horology. by name in German, Spanish and English . Movements used by many popular American clock companies are ------~~~---- I would like to order___ copy/copies of Henry B. Fried's I included. 8W' x 11 "; soft cover; 100 pages, new 4th Edition of THE WATCH REPAIRER'S MAl'\UAL. I 055139 - Hermie ...... $8.00 each Enclosed is $___ _ I - SPECIAL OFFER - I Ocheck Ornoney order OMasterCard OVisa I 055140 - Get all three - $22.50 I Charge # ______I I Exp. Date ____ Signature,______I f S. (tfai~~Inc. I Worldwide Distributors to Horologists NAME I '~\s j Uz>" ADDRESS I 234 Commerce Place, Greensboro, N. C. 27420, U. S. A. CITY STATE ZIP__ : AWi Press, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 I ------~ July 1986/Horo/ogica/ Times 17 Technically_ © WATCHES' 1986

Archie 8 . Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC (All rights reserved by the author)

1986 Antique Watch Restoration © Part VII

hen making a flat spring which has a curvature that the hole for the screw head. Figure 2 shows some of the tools cannot be formed by turning on the lathe, the spring used to do this. View A shows a 10 tooth counterbore with Wpart can be made straight and then formed to the a pilot to guide it when it is being used. The pilot should fit proper shape before it is hardened and tempered. Figure 1 the hole that was drilled in the spring or lever, and the diame­ shows such a spring. View A shows the original shape for ter of the counterbore should be slightly larger than the the spring and View B shows the spring in its straight form diameter of the head of the screw that will be used to hold the before being shaped to its original form. In most cases, the spring or lever down on the watch plate. The counterbore spring can be formed with the fingers. In other cases where cuts a square bottom for flat head screws. Some of these bends need to be made which have small radii, suitable pliers counterbores have removable pilots so different size pilots may be needed. An important reason for making the spring can be inserted to fit different size screw holes. These counter­ straight and forming it later is that the spring is easier to work bores are also made with fewer teeth. Some have four teeth on when shaping it with grinding wheels on the lathe. and others have only two teeth. View B, Figure 2 shows An important operation needed, in most cases, when a two tooth counterbore. This counterbore has a pilot which making a spring or lever is countersinking or counterboring is part of the tool (not removable). If the pilot should break

Figure 1 Figure 2

A

E

18 Horological Times/July 1986 Figure 3 Figure 4

off, then the tool cannot be used again since the pilot is prevent a delicate spring or lever from becoming broken in needed to guide the tool. case the tool should get caught during the operation. A sawed View C, Figure 2 shows a countersink. Countersinks out spring or lever can be drilled and countersunk or counter­ are used to sink around the screw hole for beveled headed bored but extreme care must be used so as not to get the tool screws. The countersink that is shown does not have a pilot; caught during the operation. The article being worked on is however, some countersinks do have pilots to guide them. held flat on the drill pad with the fingers to prevent it from The countersink shown in View D, Figure 2 can be moving on the drill pad during the operation. made without much difficulty. This tool is made from high After the spring or lever has been sawed out of the carbon drill rod. It can have three or four sides ground on it metal, then it is filed or ground to the proper shape and almost to form the proper angle for the screw head. This tool should to size. Then the edges of the spring or lever are draw filed be hardened and tempered to a very pale straw color. to remove any lines or roughness on the surfaces. When this If a countersink is not available, a flat drill can be is being done, the article should be held in a flat smooth jawed used to countersink for a screw head. This is shown in View pin vise. A hard vise or a smooth jawed bench vise can also E, Figure 2. A flat drill can be sharpened to the necessary be used to hold the spring or lever. Figure 4 shows a spring angle to correspond to the angle on the screw head for which being held in a flat jawed pin vise for draw filing the spring. the countersink is being used. View A shows how the spring is held while draw filing a View F, Figure 2 shows a wheel countersink which convexed surface. A barrette file or a 3-square file can be used can be used to remove a burr from the corner of a hole. to draw file a convex surface. View B shows how a spring is These countersinks are double ended, one end has a disc which held in a vise for draw filing a concaved surface on the spring. has sharp corners for removing the burr and the other end A crossing oval file is a good file to use for draw filing a has a disc with a rounded edge which is used to burnish the concaved surface. corner of the hole. Springs for high grade watches have the After the edges of the spring have been draw filed corner of the screw holes countersunk quite an amount and until they are smooth, then the surfaces are smoothed still highly polished. The wheel countersink can be used this way further with 4/0 polishing paper wrapped around a piece of to sink and burnish around the screw holes, then the sinks pegwood. The pegwood with polishing paper is used in the can be polished with pegwood and Linde A or Diamantine. same manner as the files were used to draw file the surfaces. Counterbores and countersinks can be purchased from your The smoother the edges of a spring are made the less likely local watch material distributor. the spring is to break while in use in the watch. Care must be When drilling a spring or lever, it can be supported used so that the spring is not made too thin resulting in its on a drill pad in the tailstock spindle of the lathe. The same being too weak. method can be used when counterboring or countersinking The springs and levers in most high grade watches a lever or spring. Figure 3 shows a lever being supported on a have their corners beveled and polished as is shown in View drill pad while it is being counterbored for a screw head. A, Figure 5. The corner around the screw holes is also bevel The drill, counterbore, or countersink is held in a chuck in the cut and polished for a better appearance. When making a lathe headstock as is shown. The tailstock spindle is left free spring or lever such as this, the corners can be beveled with a to slide in the tailstock so the drill pad supporting the spring fine file or, better yet, they can be beveled with a fine grinding or lever can be advanced toward the cutting tool. The article wheel as shown in View B, Figure 5. To do this, the spring being worked on can be supported on a thin wood board that or lever is supported on a saw table as is shown. The saw is resting on the drill pad when a hole is being drilled through table is lowered so the edge of the grinding wheel will contact it. This helps to prevent the drill from getting caught as it the edge of the lever at a 45° angle so the corner will be breaks through the surface of the metal. Note: It is best to ground off at a 45° angle. When grinding the corner of the drill all of the holes in a spring or lever before it is sawed out spring, it should be resting flat on the saw table. The spring of the metal. It is also better to countersink or counterbore should be held lightly against the edge of the grinding wheel before the article is sawed out of the metal. This is to help and be kept moving during the operation by sliding the spring

July 1986/Horological Times 19 A/X Figure5 Figure 6

BORIC ACID POWDER

B

on the surface of the saw table. After the corners of a spring or lever have been ground, then the surface can be polished with boxwood and Linde A or Diamantine. After the spring or lever has been shaped, then it must be hardened and tempered. Figure 6 shows the hardening process. First, the spring or lever should be wrapped with iron binding wire to build up a mass over the part that is the most delicate. This is to prevent the delicate sections from becoming overheated and damaged during the heating process. The end of the binding wire not needed to wrap the spring is twisted up to form a handle for holding onto with a pair of 28 (.008") iron binding wire is recommended for this opera­ pliers while the spring is being heated for hardening. Number tion. The wrapped spring is heated slightly over an alcohol lamp flame, then it is placed in a box of boric acid powder and moved around until it has a good uniform coating over it. Now, the spring is reheated over the alcohol flame until WATCH CASE REPAIR - BECKER HECKMAN CO. it is a uniform medium cherry red color, then it is plunged 16 East Park Street, Mundelein, IL 60060 Phone (312) 949-0404 butt end first into a jar of water. The spring should be inserted 'I -Since 1906, Professionals in Repairing Cases- I into the jar of water in a vertical position to help prevent I •Lugs soldered or replaced. Stainless steel. gold, silver. filled, plated I warping. Overheating the spring can also cause warping. After •Repair gold coin watches. Springs, new bezels, straightening. I the heating and quenching process, the binding wire is care­ •Pocket watches. Hinges, springs, straightening. Bezels custom- I made-gold, silver. plated. I fully unwound from the spring and the spring is tested with •Refitting ladies' old diamond wrist cases with 17 jewel ,. a fine file to make sure it is hard. If the file bites into the or quartz movements. spring, then the spring has not been hardened sufficiently and the hardening process must be repeated until the spring SINCE 1877 is hard. When the spring is hard, the file will slide on the spring BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL and not bite into its surface. After the spring has been 220 West King Street, LancastP.r, PA 17603 hardened, then it must be tempered to prevent it from Offers you diploma courses in: breaking when being used. To prepare the spring for tem­ Jewelry Repairing and Stonesetting Engraving Watchmaking and Repairing Clockmaking and Repairing pering, the top surface should be cleaned by rubbing it on a Send for free brochure piece of 4/0 polishing paper that is lying on a flat surface. An Equal Opportunity Facility (Please turn to page 3 7)

20 Horological Times/July 1986 Book Review

CLOCKS AND WATCHES IN COLOUR by A. Nicholls and and rack lever. The watch section is divided into national R. Good. 6 x 8", 218 pages, 86 color plates, 28 figures. Pub. styles: Brcguet's influence, case decoration, keyless winding, 1978 by Garden City Press, Letchworthm, G. Britain. $19.95. England's supremacy. A 33-page glossary, description of the 86 color plates, In 1978 the book Watches in Colour by Richard Good was a bibliography and a page of world public collections are published by Blandford Press, Ltd. Now this has been com­ included. The American listing of public collections fails to bined with a similar publication, Clocks in Colour, as an en­ mention the museum of the American Watchmakers Institute tirely new combination. Thus the first glance of its outside, and The Edison Institute, while listing the nonexisting mu­ the pages seem interspersed with sections of different colors. seums such as the Hagans Manor Horological Museum and the Then upon examination they turn out to be two different James Arthur Collection at NYU in New York which have not groups of color plates; one of clocks and the other of watches. been in existence for many years. However, the book should The book is an expanded catalogue-style exposition. serve as a good primer for the beginning collector whose ex- Each clock pictured is numbered and is explained in the white position is authoritative and simply told. Henry B. Fried page text. The progression of the history of horology and the developmental progression of watches and clocks is told in the manner in which each item is described and pictured from the earliest examples to the fairly modern. Why Mr. Nichols and Mr. Good are highly respected au­ thorities with a number of horological texts to their credits. Not They explain the basics such as the fusee, the stackfreed, Drop verge, anchor escapement maintaining power, pendulums and striking systems, with good drawings. lls Clocks of Germany, Austria , England, Switzerland, from America and Japan are represented with pictured exam­ A ples. The earliest is a sixteenth century Gothic chamber clock J with suspended foliot and the latest are American late 19th Note? century products. China also is represented by the famous water escapemented clock by Su Sung and with descriptions of Chinese mechanical timepieces. EXPRESS YOURSELF! The book is really in two separate sections: the latter What you do like . . . on watches, "Watches in Colour," is by Richard Good. The what you don't like watch section has some fine drawings of escapements with AWi/ about the Horological Times Horological Times. good introductory remarks which include a reference to an 3700 Harrison Avenue early 1462 date ascribed to an Italian watch. Watch escape­ Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 ment is mentioned are the verge cylinder, detent, duplex,

Wishing CAN make it so at GEM CITY COLLEGE WATCHMAKERS - JEWELERS - CLOCKMAKERS (\ I wish I had a good profession! THINK HOROLOGY (\ I wish I had a position with a future! THINK HOROLOGY Genuine: Bulova - Longines - Omega - Seiko - Pulsar - Rolex (\ I wish I had a challenging position! THINK HOROLOGY WATCH MATERIAL & CRYSTALS (\ I wish I had a position that is in demand! THINK HOROLOGY ALSO CARRYING THE FULL LINE OF: G.S. Crystals HOROLOGY IS ... ---- L&R Cleaning Solutions, Cleaning and Timing Machines, watch Repairing • Clock Restoration Jewelry Engraving • Glass Engraving VIGOR BEST FIT and HAMMEL RIGLANDER PRODUCTS Jewelry Diamond Setting • Jewelry Designing Jewelry Store Management I am small enough to try very hard to please you. For Complete Detells, Cell or Write: NEW YORK JEWELERS SUPPLY COMPANY GEM CITY COLLEGE Watch Material, Jewelers Supplies & Accessorie~ 700 State Room 208 (212) BA 7-6677 Quincy, IL 62301 87 NASSAU STREET NEW YORK, NY 10038 Ph. 217·222·0391

July 1986/Horological Times 21 WATCHE~

Ralph Geiger, CMW, CMC, CEWS

Regulating a Verge and Fusee Watch

AUTHOR'S NOTE: Those horologists unfamiliar with verge watches are advised to refer to Henry Fried's article in the NAWCC BULLETIN, February 1983, and the book CLOCK AND WATCH ESCAPEMENTS by W.J. Gazeley (both avail­ able from the A WI Library). Remember, before disassembling a verge watch, always block the train with a piece of Rodico.

egulating a verge watch can be quite confusing for the horologist trained on lever escapements. The verge and lever escapements have quite different char­ acteristics, and cannot be approached in the same manner. Before the invention of the balance spring (hairspring), the rate of a verge and foliot could be adjusted in three ways: (I) changing the driving power (more power caused a faster rate); (2) changing the depth of the escape wheel with the pallets (lessening the depth increased the rate); (3) changing the pallets until the escapement will no longer unlock. De­ the moment of inertia of the foliot (moving the weight toward crease the depth slightly until the escapement operates again. the center of oscillation increased the rate). Most verge watches The escape wheel depth should now be close to optimum. were limited to the first two methods, as they had solid bal­ Further adjustments, should they be necessary, will be made ances or foliots. The third method was used primarily for after the watch is running. clocks. The invention of the balance spring provided a fourth With the watch assembled, but no power on the train, method. set up the mainspring ~ to 1 full turn of the barrel arbor. Set The contemporary horologist must be particularly the balance spring regulator to the center of its scale, then aware of the first two methods of regulation. These methods wind and set the watch. have little effect on the rate of a lever watch (even though Adjustments to the rate are first attempted with the they do markedly affect performance); however, the rate of a balance spring regulator. If the errors are out of range of the verge watch can be altered literally hours per day. If one were regulator, the outside pinning point of the balance spring is unaware of the importance of driving power and escape wheel changed to allow more or less of the spring's length to become depth to the rate of a verge watch, it would be easy to assume active. This will necessitate a beat readjustment. that the balance and balance spring were mismatched when Sometimes even with the balance spring pinned at they were actually correct. its very end and the regulator pushed all the way to slow, the watch will still gain. This is the moment when the verge es­ CORRECTING GROSS ERRORS capement may confuse us. Our training with lever escape­ The first step in adjusting the rate of a verge watch is to set ments tells us the balance spring is too short or the balance the escape wheel depth. This is easiest (and safest) to do while is too light. Maybe, but probably not. It is very likely that the watch is apart. Supply power to the escapement by gently further adjustment of the escape wheel depth will bring the rolling your finger over the top of the escape pinion. At the watch into regulation range. As was already mentioned, such same time, slowly increase the depth of the escape wheel with an adjustment can affect the rate by hours per day.

22 Horological Times/July 1986 French and Swiss verge watches have a screw feed device to adjust the depth of the escape wheel. A slight turn of the screw is sufficient to make a noticeable change in rate. English watches have counterpotence followers which re­ quire pushing or prying to change the escape wheel depth. It is risky to attempt to adjust an English style follower while the A watch is assembled. However, it is preferable not to have to / disassemble the watch each time a rate adjustment needs to be made. USE EXTREME CARE when adjusting English style followers! Block the train with Rodico when decreasing the depth. To increase the depth, a special tool should be used. It is shown in the drawings and photographs, and is easily made from aluminum tubing. The tool is used by placing it over the end of the follower and pushing inward gently. Use extreme care when pushing. Be sure the counterpotence is securely fastened to the plate. Do not use any tool which could slip off the side of the follower and plunge into the train. A very slight inward adjustment is sufficient to make a significant change in rate. ISOCHRONAL ERRORS Verge watches are particularly prone to isochronal errors. Any fluctuation in power immediately affects the rate. For this reason, fusees* are imperative in verge watches. The fusee helps equalize the power of the mainspring so that the power transmitted to the escapement is about the same at the end of the wind as when fully wound. In having previously set up the mainspring 72 to 1 full turn, only the middle portion of the c mainspring-that which is most evenly powered-will be used. ~------The extreme ends will never come into action. This too helps the uniformity of power. If, when timing the watch, it is found that the rate is different at the end of the wind than Crimp, or roll, square a piece of 1/8 inch round aluminum tubing with a when fully wound, the degree to which the mainspring is set piece of 3/ 32 inch telescoping tubing inside (View A). up can be altered to provide better isochronism. Depending on the characteristics of the mainspring, it may be necessary to File to the shape shown in B and C. The bottom side must be thinned allow the ends to work to reduce an isochronal error. In­ somewhat to allow the tool to fit between the follower and the plate. creasing the amount of mainspring setup should increase the end of wind rate, and vice versa. Do not be tempted to use a harder material than aluminum or the tool While it is possible to obtain quite a nice rate from a will leave scars on the edge of the follower. As a safety precaution, DO NOT fit a handle to this tool. verge watch, it is pointless to spend a great deal of time try­ Adequate pressure can be obtained by grasping the tubing. Excess pres­ ing. Their trains are usually rather coarsely made and so full of sure should be avoided. theoretical errors it is surprising that they run as well as they Use extreme caution when using this tool. Do not allow it to "jack knife." Do not allow it to plunge into the train. do. Two minutes per day is an excellent rate for a verge watch. * The stackfreed, a different device, but having the same purpose as the fusee, was preferred in Germany until the 17th century. It did not func­ tion as well as the fusee.

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July 1986/Horologica/ Times 23 From the Manuscript and Photo Library of Orville R. Hagans, FAWI, CMW, CMC, FBHI, FNAWCC

Unknown Father of the Talkie5

uried in a stack of technical papers a foot thick in chanical work led him into watchmaking and repairing. the files of the Radio Corporation of America is the He was a rare fellow when it came to fixing up strange story of Charles Edgar Fritts, inventive genius watches, and for years (as an older man) he edited a question and crotchety recluse, whom few people have ever heard of, and answer column. He also wrote two books on watch but who was the father of modern talking pictures. repairing. The watchmakers of America once presented him Fritts was born in 1838. Perhaps that was his real with a big gold medal as a token of gratitude for the help he trouble-he was so far ahead of his time that people could had been to all of them. not grasp what he was driving at. Even the experts in the He had no means, but in his travels he met and im­ patent office could not understand the principles behind his pressed a man named Hopkinson. Hopkinson decided to back major invention, a method and apparatus for photographing him insofar as he could. Some others joined in too. The upshot sound, recording it, transmitting it electrically and then of it was that Fritts came to New York with a writing job to translating the photograph back into the original sound. give him a modest livelihood and great dreams of a career as In spite of Fritts' careful and amazingly prophetic explanation, an inventor. the thing must have seemed a crazy dream when he first sent Taking three rooms at 303 West 50th Street, he in his claim for a patent. tuned one into a bedroom and another into a kitchen where This was as far back as 1880, several years before he cooked all his own meals. The third might be called his there were such things as motion pictures. And it was not living room. This is where he did all his experimenting. The until 36 years later, in 1916, that the patent was granted­ room was a litter of scientific paraphernalia and the hub of partly because it took the experts that long to catch up with his personal universe. He literally lived in a laboratory. him. Meanwhile, Charles Edgar Fritts had been dead 11 years. Two young fellows came in during the day to serve as People who know about such things say that when assistants, otherwise Fritts scarcely saw anybody. But at the patent finally did come along it was one of the broadest rare intervals -some famous American or European scientist ever granted any inventor. This was because Fritts did his would seek him out (and this was true even much later in his job so well. He not only got in on the ground floor; he was life when he was a hunted, futile old man). He was doing the ground floor. The talkies could not escape using the work of first rate importance. He was made a member of that methods this patent covers. They are basic in recording sound honorable body-the American Association for the Advance­ by electrical means, and they even have in them the seed of ment of Science. His work with the selenium cell attracted modern developments in television. worldwide attention. The patent was bought from Fritts' heirs by the Selenium is the moon element. It was named for the Victor Talking Machine Company and subsequently trans­ moon, a lady whom the Greeks called Selene (a smooth, ferred to RCA-Photophone, manufacturers of talking motion­ slinking, silky name). If a bit of selenium is hooked into picture equipment. It laid the groundwork for a great modern an electric current it will conduct the current in porportion art and industry that has spread over the earth. to the amount of light falling on it and resist the passage of Fritts was born in Oneonta, NY on October 13, 1838. the current in proportion to the lack of light. This curious (In that year New York's rapid transit system was born too hook-up of electrical conductivity with light in selenium was in the form of a stagecoach line running along Broadway, and to be used later in sending pictures by wire, translating light not long before Congress had voted funds to try out a new­ into sound signals for blind people, and controlling electric fangled invention called the telegraph.) He turned\ out to be devices by means of light. a fine youngster who did well in school, and later excelled The photoelectric cell or "electric eye" of today in Greek, Latin, and German in the Delaware Literary Insti­ is an improvement in this field. We think of it as one of the tute at Franklin. But he could not stay there more than a most modern of developments. Back in 1880 the development couple of years. He had to get busy earning a living. He tried might have been described as a vision dimly seen by only a school teaching for a while. Then a passion for precise me- few men in the world. (Please turn to page 36) 24 Horological Times/July 1986 We Salute These New ltlen1bersl

ANDREWS, Charles S.-Greenwell Springs, LA SHERMAN, John A-Eastham, MA TIPPING, Rodney James-K ilgore, TX ASHLEY, Don-Paris, TX SIMPSON, Pam-Minneapolis, MN TOR RES, Camilo-Astoria, NY BERMAN, George P.-Milwaukee, WI SMITH, Charles-Okmulgee, OK TURPIN, Rex - St. Paul, MN BOOTHE, Waldo E.-Northport, AL SOGARD, Dennis-New Hope, MN VAN TIEM, Arnold C.-Warren, Ml BROWN, Michael B.-Blacksburg, VA STAHL, Carl D.-Johnstown, PA WALKER, Robert E.-Uxbridge, MA BURNLEY, William G.-Shirley, MA TAI-HO, Jang-Andong City, Korea ZORTMAN, Mark-Fowler, KS BUTCHER, Larry E.-Taylor, TX TALIPAN, James-Pittston, PA ZORTMAN, Terry- Fowler, KS CAMPBELL, Robert J.-Carmichael, CA CASTOR, Penny L.-Seattle, WA CHOI, Tae Cheon-Daegu, Korea CLARK, James L-San Antonio, TX COLLINS, Don-Okmulgee, OK COLSON, Bill, Jr.-Claxton, GA DeMARRE, Ed-St. Paul, MN EAKLE, Kelly-McAllister, OK ELLISTON, Janet Sue-Talco, TX

FELICIANO, Felicita-Santurge, PR A WORD ABOUT PRICING Call or write for monthly specials and price reductions. We continually monitor the industry lo bring you the lowest prices possible. Check with us on other FUGICH, Jerry M.-Yelm, WA companies advertised prices - we may even be lower! FULLER, John L., II I-Austin, TX Model Size Interchange - Features Per Movement GRANT, Fred-Walnut Cove, NC 15 5 1 GRIFFEY, Orexel L.-lndependence, MO Bulova 218.2 - 224.2 Use 2783 Bulova Kit with 536.121 Movement 2700 GRUENING, Cra ig R.-Fond Du Lac, WI Complete with movement ring and instructions Bulova 2210 Use available substilute - same hands ID'" 11'" 1250 HARRISON, Darrell-Edmond, OK We furnish dial ring 1111d dlal stick 0111 1 gso HENRY, Tony-Sligo, Ireland Bulova 2500 5/z x 6'/• Use available substltule - same hands 1150 ID'" We rurnish dial sllck ons HESS, Kimberley A.-Houston, TX ESA 202.001 3'/• x 8'/• x 2.25 Bulova 6llXI 23so ESA 927.001 51/z x 6'1· x 2.95 Bulova 2840 11us 12" 13" HOOKER, John-Johnstown, PA ESA 927.101 51/z x 6'1• x 2.!15 Sweep Second Bulova Z841 1650 KERSEY, C.L.-Bonaire, GA ESA 961.003 6'!. x 8 x 3.511 FF60 - STOO • FE6320 (shorten dlal feeQ 7'" 8'" 8" ESA 978.003 51/z x 6'/• x 2.50 ESA 578 002 1350 1450 KING, Don-Panama, OK FE 6320 6'!. x 8 FF6D · STOO · ESA 961 .003 Caravetle RP 700 900 8" KING , John R.-Pennington, NJ Citizen D180A.PUW 800-Will 6W8-Benrus .BM 1 3 LARSEN, Roger S.-Seattle, WA FE 6820 5/z x 6/, x 3.6 ESA 301.00l-ASl977-Seiko I IA Bui 1000 8'" 9'" 1050 ELG 313-FE6620-Gruen 262-SGT74 MARCHESI, Nat J., Jr.-Forked River, NJ Zodiac I BA-AS I DI 2 MASSEY, J.G.-Newport, TN Harley Ronda 672 6'1· x 8 x 325 ESA !16 I .IXJ3.FE632Q.FF60 1100 12'° 12" Harley Ronda 3572 51/z x 6'1· x 2.7 Thinline.Q77.001-588.00l-Bul 5AH fdial spots] 12" 1350 13" McHENRY, Jerry-Okmulgee, 0 K Pulsar-Seiko 480 6'!. x 8 x 2.9 Discontinued - Use either 4814112 MORGAN, Paul-Kilgore, TX Pulsar Seiko 481 6%x8x2.9 Sweep-Replace for 486-change hands 8" 9" ID" Pulsar Seiko 482 6'!. x8x2.9 Non sweep replace !Of 486-change hands 11" 9" ID" MORRISROE, Anthony J.-Roslindale, MA Pulsar Seiko 588 51/z x 6'/• x 2.8 Replaces 500.5420A (same dial Miyota 3220) 9" IOUS II" NELSON, John J.-Fort Dodge, IA Pulsar Seiko 590 51/z x 63/, x 2.8 Use 588 - same dial-hands 9" ID" 11" Pulsar Seiko V23D 51/z x 6'/• x 2.5 Thinner version of 235 ID" IP' 12" 1 00 OLSON, Dan-Lisbon, ND Pulsar Seiko V23 I 5/1 x 6'/• x 2.5 Sweep thin line version OF 230 1300 14 14" PACKER, Susan J.-Smithfield, UT Pulsar Seiko V235 5Vz x 6'1• x 3.0 Use 231).slightly thinner Pulsar Seiko V242 6'!. x 8 Sweep second dale-Lorus 242 ID" 11" 12" PARK, Thomas S.-White Plains, NY Pulsar Seiko V243 6% x 8 Sweep second day-Lorus 243 11" 12" 13" PETRICK, Mary Anna-Jackson, WI Miyata Citizen 3220 51/z x 6'/• Non Swee,..aN20-3228-Y59D 1200 1300 1400 Miycia Citizen 2950 51/i x 63!. Sweep second-2Y5D-2Y51 12 00 1300 1400 POSAVEC, Lloyd-Forest Park, IL Miyola Citizen 2030 6'1· x 8 Sweep second 2035-2048 goo 1000 11"" POWERS, Rodolphe T.-Grand Falls, Canada Miyota Citizen 2020 6'1• x 8 Non sweep 20211-2025 11 00 1200 13 00 PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. RASMUSSEN, Karl H., IV-Fremont, NE ~ RENNER, Michael G.-Menlo Park, CA ~ 41 P.O. BOX 64561 ST. PAUL, MN 55164 SCINTO, Gregory D.-Brewster, MA ~ W1" NATIONAL WATS-ORDERS ONLY-800-328-0205 • SEARLE, Ronald A.-Kilgore, TX MINNESOTA WATS-ORDERS ONLY-800-392-0334 Esslinger & co 1Nau1R1Es-1NF0RMAT10N-612-452-1180 . July 1986/Horological Times 25 THE P11c1~LE IAAAElL

Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

Repairing Stone Settings PART III BEZEL REPAIRS

ezel settings are used mostly to secure larger stones in so on odd cut stones which would have to be special cut if mountings for all shaped stones. They work well on a replacement is needed. Most genuine stones have some type cut round, oval, square, rectangular, or navette cut of internal inclusions when heated and could cause the stone stones and also are commonly used for cabachon cut stones to shatter or cause a change in the internal structure of the in round or ovals. Tube settings for diamonds are commonly stone. Over the many years that I have been making stone used in some drilled stones or in the corners of some signet setting repairs, I have applied heat on metal around the metal rings. A tube setting is actually a bezel. By using a tube larger settings. In very few instances have I had to replace stones than the diameter of the round stone and with a thick enough because of heat damage. Maybe it is just good luck! wall, a seat can be cut in it with a setting bur. This leaves a If you do apply heat to stones there are several tips bezel around the stone that allows the stone to be set securely that can help protect the stone. Dip the setting and stone in with the bezel burnished tightly over and around the girdle a boric acid and alcohol solution and let it burn off after of the stone. Other bezels being used are full bezels, corner igniting it. Although this will not protect the stone from bezels, and end and corner bezels. heat, it will protect it from burning any foreign matter that Any kind of setting is subject to wear. Bezels can may be on the surface of the stone (which is difficult to become worn and stones can come loose in the bezels from remove). It wH I also protect the metal surrounding it from wear and tear. If the stone is loose and the metal is good, oxidation. After heat has been applied to the stone (even it is a simple matter to use a burnishing tool and simply bur­ diamonds) it should never be quenched in any cool or cold nish the bezel tightly against the stone. (See Figure 1-G for solution. This will cause it to shatter. It should be placed on an burnishing tool.) If the bezel is too heavy to pull down with asbestos pad, bench soldering pad, or charcoal block. It should the hand burnishing tool, then a flat bottom rectangular punch never be placed on metal. This would draw the heat from the can be used. Most jewelers' benches have a tapered hole on stone quickly, which is as bad as quenching it, and the results the forward edge so that a ring mandrel can be inserted. could be disasterous. With a ring tightly wedged on a ring mandrel, the flat bottom eplacement bezels can be purchased from the material punch can be used and tapped with a brass hammer all around Rdistributor in round, oval, square, rectangular, or emerald the bezel until tight. It can then be smoothed with the bur­ cut (octagon) shapes in yellow or white gold. Sometimes the nishing tool. (Figure 1-D, point d, shows the punch in place quickest, easiest, and best way to repair a bezel setting is to on the bezel.) replace it with a new bezel. The bezel can be purchased or aution must be taken when making repairs on bezels made from a piece of gold, silver, or whatever metal the C requiring heat application for hard solder repairs. It is jewelry is made of about .4 to .5 mm thick. A strip can be cut easier to always remove the stone before starting. We have with jewelers' shears then shaped to the stone with jewelers' discussed before stones that will take heat and stones that will pliers. After shaping, the ends can be hard soldered then not. Even when dealing with synthetic stones, the larger sizes checked to see if it will fit over the stone. If it fits, the stone are too costly to take a chance of damaging with heat. So if should easily seat in it after it has been hard soldered to the in doubt, remove the stone, make the repair, and reset it. piece of jewelry where the old bezel has been filed off smooth. Most genuine stones, even rubies and sapphires in larger sizes, After the bezel is attached and there is a good hard solder are much too expensive to take chances with, and even more joint completely around the base where it attaches to the

26 Horological Times/July 1986 Figure 1 b D vpoint c c

d

D E

D C.______TI_tt +A es+ F [ ~..______:> G mounting, the stone can be tried to see if it will seat. Some­ without damage it can save extra work. A piece of metal can times if the stone fits too tight the seat may have to be en­ be fit over the corners or wherever around the bezel that it is larged. If some spot tightness shows, the tight spots can be necessary to repair or strengthen it and then hard soldered. If removed with a hand graver, a rotary tool, or in some cases this is done, resetting the stone and recutting the seat is can even be filed. (Figure 1-A, point a, shows a stone seated in unnecessary. The repair can be made in about half the time as a replacement bezel before bending the edges over the stone. it would take of the stone has to be removed. Figure 1-C, point c, shows top view of same.) here are several considerations when making a judgement When the stone is seated to your satisfaction, the Tabout whether a stone will take heat or not and whether edges can be burnished over the edges of the stone. In order to remove it or not. First, when taking in the repair it should to keep the stone level and straight, the burnishing should be be explained to the customer of the risk involved in making done a little at a time going completely around the stone a repair without removing the stone, then the risks of damage until it is tight. (See Figure 1-E, point e.) If the metal is too even though the stone is removed, and the difference in cost thick to burnish over with the burnishing tool, then a flat if a stone has to be replaced. Whether the customer is willing bottom rectangular shaped punch can be used and tapped to take the risk for a lesser price or is willing to pay for a with a brass hammer. (See Figure 1-D, point d.) After the replacement should govern how you attempt to make the stone is tapped in tight, the edges of the bezel can be bur­ repair. It is equally important when dealing with soft stones nished smooth and tight. Any rough places can be filed out that have to be removed to discuss this with the customer and with a fine cut file. Then the stone can be polished on the inform them of the risk involved in removal and resetting. polishing motor with felt buff wheels using tripoli or a fast To repeat, if the stone has to be removed it is best to sell the cutting abrasive. Rouge on a cotton wheel will give it a final customer on a complete new bezel. You can turn out a first finish. class repair and charge enough for it to be wel I compensated In some cases bezels can be repaired to an advantage. for your time and materials. On stones with square corners (square or rectangular stones) The most difficult bezel repairs for me have been on or even the corners of a bezel holding an octagon cut stone antique rings using cabachon stones and half pearls. Although the corners get worn and have sharp, ragged edges. Some­ some cabachons are set in prongs, many are set in bezels. times the ragged corners need to be repaired even though the All half pearls are set in small bezel settings. As most of these stone is in no danger of falling out. These corners can be half pearls are less than 2mm in diameter, to replace these replaced by cutting a strip of metal the same thickness as bezels is a very difficult repair. First, all stones must be re­ would be used for a bezel and wide enough to go well around moved from the mounting if new bezels or prongs have to a corner of the stone. It can be bent in the shape of an angle be hard soldered. Stones other than the half pearls are usually and long enough to hold one end with tweezers while applying genuine rubies, sapphires, garnets, or opals and should be to the mounting. Again caution-if you are not sure the stone removed. Usually the settings for larger stones are the ones will take heat then remove it. When a stone can stand the heat (Please turn to page 32)

July 1986/Horological Times 27 GEMSTONES

Edgar Cleves, Jr.

ORGANIC GEMS

rganic gem materials are those naturally occurring or dipping in tea. During the past year, my son and I have substances which originate wholly or partially from experimented by placing new ivory in tea for various periods the animal or vegetable kingdoms. They include of time and have obtained beautiful unusual results. pearl, ivory, coral, amber, jet, and tortoise shell. ELEPHANT IVORY PEARL The African elephant supplies the most and the best Though it lacks durability, its beauty cannot be ivory. This species, which yields the largest specimens, once denied. Throughout history pearl has always held a place all roamed in vast herds over the whole of Africa south of the its own. Despite the competition of the cultured pearl, the Sahara Desert, but has become sadly reduced in numbers as natural pearl is esteemed as highly as ever. The pearl and its the result of the opening up of the country and the depreda­ shell are very similar in composition. Calcium carbonate tions of ivory hunters. The best specimens of ivory have a (CaC03) accounts for 93% of the mass. Five percent is organic soft, warm tint with little grain or mottling. There are two matter and the balance is calcium oxide and water. If not types of ivory from the African elephant. A soft variety properly cared for, pearls can be damaged. Cleaning with harsh obtained from animals in the eastern part of the continent chemicals can destroy the finish. Perfumes, hair sprays, and is pure white, more curved, and has a blunt tip. The hard body lotions may all contain chemicals very detrimental to variety, which is obtained from animals in the western part, the finish of the pearl. has more of a cream color and smaller in diameter. In the Indian elephant cow, the tusks are so small that they seldom IVORY protrude beyond the jaws. It is common to also see tuskless Ivory has been valued by man because of its many bulls. attractive qualities. After World War 11 the number of col­ On January 14, 1936, laws were enforced to protect lectors of ivory has increased at a very fast rate. Since there animals and plants in Africa that were threatened with extinc­ is no increase in the supply, it seems that demand will probably tion. Elephants with tusks not exceeding five kilograms not diminish and that the values will increase. New ivory is ( 11 pounds) were to be protected as completely as possible. comparatively durable; however, with age it has a tendency to The law stated the hunting, killing, or capturing of them shall turn yellow and become more brittle. The word ivory is only take place by special permission of the highest authority derived from the old French yvoire. Fossil ivory comes from of the territory. Elephants with tusks exceeding five kilograms the tusks of mammoths. Vegetable ivory is obtained from the should not be hunted, killed, or captured, even by natives, corozo nuts of a South American nut palm tree, the nuts of except under special license granted by competent authority. the Polynesian ivory-nut palm, the doom or doum palm, and Today, because of the increase in value of fine ivory, poachers sea palm (coco de mer), and the talipot palm (burinut). are still killing large he.rds throughout Africa. The original In the strict sense, ivory is the material that comes English word for elephant was olifaunt, which came from from the elephant. It is 65% hydroxyapatite, Ca5(P04)30H olifantum, the corrupt form of the Latin elephantum. and 35% organic matter. However, the tusks, teeth, and horns Ivory is made of the same material which forms our of hippopatomus, walrus, sperm whale, narwhal, warthog, and own teeth. Sixty-five percent of the elephant tusk ivory is babirusa are presently considered to be ivory. a hydroxy calcium phosphate. The remaining is a mixture of Ivory can be treated and made to appear old by organic material consisting of collagen and some elastin. gentle heating. It will take on a darkening appearance. This can also be accomplished by dipping in oil and exposing to the BONE sun. Another means of treating is exposure to tobacco smoke Many times bone has been used as a substitute for

28 Horological Times/July 1986 ivory. Bone contains a higher percentage of organic material CORAL and tends to be harder and heavier than ivory. There are According to Pliny, coral was held in just as high differences in appearance between the two materials. Their esteem in India as pearl was in Rome. History records that it cellular structures are different. Ivory is filled with extremely was used extensively in medicines. Dissolved in water, coral fine channels containing a yellow soft material, which ac­ gave relief to patients suffering from pains in the bowels, as counts for its elasticity and its mellow polish. Bone is struc­ well as infections of the bladder or uninary tract. Dissolved tured as though it is built up of bricks and mortar, rather than in wine, it reduced fever. as a monolith of a homogeneous substance. The chemical The color of coral is mainly dependent upon the composition is 3 Ca3(P04)2 Ca(OH)2. organic matter present. Coral occurs in black, white, pink, red, orange, golden, and blue. The darkest red color is called HIPPOPOTAMUS IVORY oxblood and the light pink variety is called angel skin. The This ivory comes from both the incisor and canine chemical composition is about 85% calcium carbonate, smaller teeth. The canine teeth are tusk-like and of enormous size. amounts of iron oxide, other mineral substances, and about This ivory is denser than elephant ivory and is prized because 1% of organic matter. Its shape is a branch-like framework of the hardness of the enamel. It is not easy to cut. The name of a colony of marine invertebrates called the coral polyp. hippopotamus is derived from the Greek meaning "river The black type is not calcium carbonate but a horny sub­ horse". The fossil remains of the hippopotamus resemble stance. Index of refraction readings can be obtained by a the bones of the present day hippo, which means that this spot reading. They are 1.48 and 1.658. The specific gravity is animal has undergone no change for centuries. 2.65± .05. Hardness on the Mohs' scale is 3.5 to 4. The index of refraction of black coral and golden coral is 1.56 and 1.57. WALRUS IVORY The specific gravity of black coral is 1.30 to 2.20. The hard­ Walrus ivory comes from a pair of tusks projecting ness is less than 3. The luster is dull to vitreous. Coral belongs downward from the upper jaw. They are used in breaking open to the hexagonal crystal system. All colors of coral will effer­ shells for food as well as spikes for assisting it in climbing up vesce when attacked by hydrochloric acid except black. on the ice. The name walrus is derived from the Scandanavian A cross section of black coral will display a coarse interrupted valross meaning "whole horse". Most of the early carvings of tree-ring structure. Under magnification specimens will appear ivory in Scandanavia are from walrus ivory, which is usually as a wavy fibrous structure with tiny cavities. Coral may be yellowish cream. The tusks from adults usually measure 2 to found throughout the Mediterranean Sea, the Red Sea, the 2.5 feet; however, tusks in excess of 3 feet have been found. Carribean Sea, the South Coral Sea, Hawaii, Ireland, Japan, Australia, Spain, Mauritius, and Malaysia. The name comes SPERM WHALE from the Greek word "corralium". Sperm whale is the principle species of whales con­ Substitutes are rubber, bone, wood, glass, horn, taining teeth. It is a very large whale, sometimes attaining wax, and plastics. It is used for beads, carvings (ornaments, lengths of 80 feet. It is valued for its ivory teeth, its ambergris figurines, and cameos), and cabachons. Large branches are (basis for fine perfumes) and its spermaceti (ingredient used in used as decorations while small ones sometimes are strung ointments and high quality candles). The ivory teeth are in into necklaces. the lower jaw; however, extinct specimens possessed teeth in JET both jaws. The name comes from the Latin sperma meaning Jet is a black variety of coal or lignite-a fossilized "to sow". Spermaceti, at first, was thought to be a mass of wood. It is not a mineral. It is amorphous and found in coal seed. seams as black masses and lumps. Because of its compact texture, it takes a good polish. The specific gravity is 1.30 to NARWHAL Narwhal comes from an old norse word narval 1.35. The hardness is 2.4 to 4 on the Mohs' scale. The index of refraction is 1.66. It is brittle and displays conchoidal meaning "corpse-whale". This refers to the unusual color fracture. It comes from the hard shales known as jet rock, of the skin. It inhabits Arctic waters and differs from all other of the Upper Lias on the coast of England near Whitby. whales by the peculiarity of its dentition. They possess only Other sources are Spain, Germany, France, USSR, and the one pair of upper tusks. In the female they are about 8 inches United States (Utah, Colorado, and New Me'xico). Like any long and permanently hidden in the jaw bone. In the male, coal, jet will burn. The name jet comes from the French they grow into a specially twisted tusk 10 to 12 feet long jaiet, which is derived from the Latin gagates. and 3 to 4 inches in diameter. TORTOISE SHELL WARTHOG Tortoise shell has been used as an ornament since 80 The male warthog has large canine teeth which B.C. The name originated from the Latin name tortuga. develop into tusks. The finest specimens come from Africa-a Tortoise shell comes from the horny plates of the hawksbill species called Phacochoerus. Both sexes have tusks. The turtle. The hawksbill turtle is the smallest of the marine lower tusks will grow no longer than 6 inches, while upper turtles never exceeding 30 inches in length. Thirteen large ones can attain lengths of 27 inches along the outer curve. plates form the hard cover of the back. Each may measure as much as 8 x 13 inches. One turtle can supply as much as BABIRUSA 8 pounds of shell. The hawksbill turtle flourishes in all tropical Sometimes called a pig deer, it is a member of the climates. The refractive index is 1.55. The specific gravity is swine family. It is just as ugly as the warthog. It lives in the 1.29. The harness is 2.5 on the Mohs' scale. Celebes and Buru islands on Indonesia. In the female the tusks are small. In the male the ordinary length of the tusks AMBER is 8 to 10 inches, while the largest in the upper jaw has been Amber is the hardened resin of pine trees of approx­ measured at 16-3/8 inches and the lower jaw at 13-1/2 inches. (P/ease turn to page 32)

July 1986/Horologica/ Times 29 Heat Treating For Horologists

Roy H. Niegel CMW,CMC

he purpose of this article is to help the horologist to The types of steels we should be using are known as· properly finish parts he makes out of steel. I want to tool steels. They are available with detailed analytical data as T present him with the proper methods of heat treat­ well as temperatures and times for heat treatment. This data ing. We wilf discuss briefly hardening of brass and other metals; is provided by the maker of the metals. For example, drill rod mainly this article will focus on steels. comes in water, oil, or air hardening. Within that group, you First, for some definitions (see below): find subgroups. For example: water hard-used for tools, good

HARDENING A method of changing properties of metals from relatively soft to hard and brittle.

TEMPERING A method of retreating steel that has been hardened to cause it to be less brittle but still hard enough to be useful. Sometimes called drawing.

ANNEALING A process to make steels fully soft so that they may be easily worked. Most steels are annealed when purchased (such as drill rod, etc.).

STRAIN REMOVAL A form of annealing, but it is done after machining and work­ ing. This removes the stresses set up in the metals due to work­ ing (machining).

NITRIDING A method to surface harden steels causing only the surface to become hard. The interior remains soft.

IRON A metal used to make steel. It is not heat treated and we will not work with it. Pig iron is composed of 93% iron and 3-5% carbon.

STEEL Manufactured from pig iron by decreasing the carbon and other impurities. Then other materials are added to make the various desired alloys.

STAINLESS STEELS Special alloys formulated to prevent oxidation (rust). Some of these steels can be hardened and heat treated, but this is very special and not included in this article.

BRASS, COPPER, etc. These metals and alloys can be hardened but not by heat­ ing. They are worked to make them harder. Heating softens.

30 Horological Times/July 1986 wear and toughness; water tough-used for tools and parts, Another method is to pack the part or parts in a maximum toughness, fair wear; water wear-used where max­ crucible filled with brass shavings or filings to completely sur­ imum wear is needed, fair toughness. Sliding, rubbing, etc. re­ round the piece. In order to be able to "grab" the piece to quires maximum wearing qualities. Bending, flexing (such as quench it, you will need to wrap some iron wire around it and springs) requires toughness. Tools must wear well and be let it extend through the shavings. I also have some thin stain­ tough. Cutting tools are especially critical. less steel type 321 .003" thick foil that I use to wrap the parts There are similar groups in each family of tool steels prior to heating. This works quite well. Place the entire pack­ such as water, oil, or air that are even more special. We will not age in the furnace and allow an extra 10% time for the "soak" be treating those but may be using them as lathe toolbits, at temperature. Most of the work that we do will only require drills, etc. An example is high speed steel. They are known as one hour total time. If the parts to be treated are much larger red hard, red tough, and red wear. This subject is well covered more time is required. See the data sheets on the type of in the book Tool Steel Simplified by Palmer. They are used steel used. in such things as punch dies, extrusion dies, etc. We should Many times only the working tip of a tool needs to be be aware of the steels used and of their existence. very hard. You can accomplish this in several ways: 1) Treat The reason for water, air or oil hardening is not dif­ the entire piece so that it is very hard; then heat sink the tip ficult to understand. Water quench can cause the most dis­ that is to remain very hard with a copper or other piece of tortion; however, it produces a harder result. Oil quench dis­ metal. This will keep that part of the tool from getting the torts much less but does not give quite the hardness. Air heat to soften it. Apply the desired heat to the rest of it by hardening results in the distortion being the least of all. Re­ flame and soften it. This procedure is quite useful in making member that the water and oil quench within each method has drills, gravers, etc. For example, a drill tip must be hard but some more control due to the temperature at which the hot the shank end will probably snap if left that hard. This is steel is dipped into the quenching fluids. (Air is a fluid, too!) quite well covered by Gerald Jaeger in Questions & Answers Air is used for the most critical shapes that must not -be dis­ of and for the Clockmaking Profession. 2) If most of the part torted. Many of the old French clocks' pinion and pivots were can be left soft, just heat the tip in a flame and quench in air! That is why they can give trouble when trying to anneal or brine or oil as indicated by the type of steel used. 3) If you soften so that we can drill for repivoting. have mercury (hg) and a safe place such as a ventilated hood When using water as a quench, probably the most as what chemists use , the hardest tip will result by using mer­ common agent, I never use plain water. I only use brine. I cury as a quenching liquid. I have not tried this method my­ quote from Tool Steel Simplified: "A still bath of fresh water self but have heard of others that have used it. Again, CAU­ is not an ideal quenching medium for tool steel. Fresh water TION--MERCURY FUMES ARE VERY HAZARDOUS IF has a tendency to form considerable steam on the surface of INHALED! If in doubt, do NOT use this method before con­ the hot metal in the first stage of the quench, and this together sulting a chemist or other professional in the field. with any dissolved gas released from the water tends to form I use an electric furnace for the heat source. Mine is an insulating film on the surface of the work, especially in a Lindberg, model 51849, used on 220V 60 cycle AC. It holes and recesses that are congenial to gas pockets." draws 7 amps and will reach full temperature of 1000° C within Therefore, I use brine made by dissolving rock salt 15 minutes. The manufacturer states 12 minutes and it really in fresh water. The brine "wets" the steel all over immediate­ will do it! The chamber is 4 x 4 x 8 inches and the entire unit ly and cools more uniformly. The brine solution should be weighs 40 pounds shipping weight. There are many other suit­ warmed to about 100°F to reduce thermal shock when first able furnaces and most jewelry repair and manufacturing shops inserting the piece of hot steel. have them. For tempering at much lower temperatures, your Oil is the better liquid to use. I use peanut oil, the kitchen oven will do just fine. You may have to convince the very same that my wife uses in the kitchen. I also warm it to "cook" that it is safe to use it. At the lower temperatures re­ well above ambient. Temperature is not critical but it should quired for this operation, there is no danger of contaminat­ be quite warm to touch. ing the oven when using steels. Air is used with air hardening steels and requires no The old method of heating in a flame is still used but treatment. For annealing in air I do put a piece of brass or is not nearly as accurate nor as easily controlled. That method copper over the part surrounding it as much as possible. Then I put a large tin can over the entire assembly to further "slow down the process." There is one more fluid to use but I have no experi­ ence using it and only mention it for information. CAUTION IS TO BE USED since the fumes are VERY HAZARDOUS! That fluid is mercury. I understand that this will quench very rapidly and produce an extremely hard and brittle surface. * * * * Prior to placing the steel parts in the furnace for heat­ ing, they can be coated to reduce oxidation. Soap works quite well. Make a liquid of soap. (NOTE: This means soap­ not detergent or perfumed and colored types. Fels Naptha or Ivory are good examples to use). I use old pieces of hand soap dissolved in water to make a rather thick solution. It should be thick enough to coat the pieces and flow into crevices.

July 1986/Horologica/ Times 31 PICKLE BARREL is quite well covered in the before-mentioned article by Mr. (Continued from page 27) Jaeger. Testing for proper or desired hardness is much more that are faulty, and even though one or more of the half pearls difficult. I do use a Rockwell tester but it is, not practical for may be missing, the settings can be used without replacement the small parts we usually work with. It also is quite expensive or repair. and difficult to use. The methods described by Mr. Jaeger are When half pearl settings do have to be replaced it can excellent and he covers it quite well. I refer to testing by use be done using a thin wall tubing of the proper diameter. of a file and also the testing of trial runs of sample material. Usually it can be soldered in before cutting it off. This gives a If the temperatures that the steel manufacturer provided are longer piece of tubing so the end opposite the one to be used, you will find that the hardness is quite proper. soldered can be held with tweezers while soldering. With a rolling mill and draw-plate, tubing can be made of the desired diameter by rolling out a piece of metal to the thickness REFERENCES needed for the diameter tubing to make a bezel. It can· be cut Tool Steel Simplified, 4th Ed., authors Palmer, Luerssen, to width and pulled through the draw-plate with draw tongs Pendleton. Pub. Chilton Company (1978). starting with a large hole and continuing to draw it through smaller holes until the tube has been formed. Usually the strip Shipfitter M3 & 2, Navpers, U.S. Navy training courses, should be two to three inches long which will make a piece 10565-C. of tubing somewhat longer than the flat metal strip being used. This leaves a seam which can be soldered with hard solder Questions and Answers of and For the Clockmaking Profession, making it almost as strong as seamless tubing. When this is AWi Press, pages 201-208, Gerald G. Jaeger. soldered to the mounting where the half pearl is to be set, it can be cut off, the pearl seated, and the edge burnished over the edge of the half pearl. This can be handled much the same as setting a round cabachon stone with a full bezel only it is much smaller than most cabachon stones. While all the stones are out of the mounting all the settings should be repaired or replaced before setting the first stone. If stones are set and a setting is found to be faulty, the stones that have GEMSTONES been reset will again have to be removed. (Continued from page 29) fter the stones have been removed it is a good idea to Afirst clean the mounting before repairing settings using heat. If ultrasonic cleaning or cleaning with a soap and am­ monia solution does not get it perfectly clean, it can be imately 30 million years ago. Amber is characterized by its pickled in a cold solution of 20% sulphuric acid soaking it for extremely low specific gravity-approximately 1.08. It is about 10 minutes to a half hour. For a hot solution use 10% transparent to semitranslucent. The colors are light to dark sulphuric acid and soak it for 5 to 10 minutes or use a com­ yellow, light to dark brown, reddish brown and greenish mercial pickel solution such as Sparex®. A quick way to pickle brown. Very rare colors are blue and violet. Amber can also is in a small hand pickle pan with the pickling solution brought be dyed any color. The refractive index is 1.54. It can easily to a boil over the flame of your torch. This usually will clean be distinguished from imitations because it will float in a any buildup of soap, detergents, .body secretions, or any supersaturated solution of salt, while all of the imitations buildup of foreign matter in the crevices of the mounting. will sink. Most specimens of amber will contain foreign ma­ The mounting can be cleaned with a soap solution terials including insects. Specimens with trapped insects or with ultrasonic cleaning after pickling. A clean mounting are the most valuable. can be dipped in a solution of boric acid and alcohol to On the Mohs' scale of hardness it is 2 to 2.5. Amber protect it from oxidizing and no trouble should be experi­ is an amorphous material possessing a greasy luster. It will dis­ enced in making solder flow on it. After the settings have been play conchoidal fracture and fluoresce yellow in short wave repaired it is wise to pickle it again to remove the boric acid length and bluish white or greenish in long wave length. Baltic coating. Some stones will not stand pickling, especially if amber may fluoresce in short wave length. Sicilian amber is boiled. The boric acid coating can cause a hard glaze that is noted for its fluorescense. Amber is found in the entire Baltic difficult to polish off when finish polishing the completed Sea region, Rumania, Sicily, England, Burma, Mexico, Kenya, repair. Lebanon, Canada, Honduras, Costa Rica, and the Dominican Passing out information on making setting repairs Republic. without removing stones is, to me, a lot like walking on eggs. The name amber is derived from the Arabic ambar There is no way I can put into print a positive way to know meaning juice. Reconstructed or pressed amber presents a if a stone will stand heat. This can come only with experience different appearance and can easily be identified under magni­ and even then there is risk involved. In my opinion using fication. It appears to turn white with age, while genuine common sense and good judgement is a risk worth taking as amber will darken with age to a fine red brown. Amber can be long as it does not cause a large replacement cost. I carry easily damaged. It should never be boiled, steamed, or placed round synthetic stones in all birth months from 2mm to 5mm in an ultrasonic cleaner. Substitutes for amber are celluloid, in diameter. When repairing a mounting with a synthetic bakelite, glass, plastics, resin, and reconstituted amber. Amber stone up to 5mm, I never remove it. There have been very few is used mostly in beads, carvings, earrings, and pendants. that I have had to replace from heat damage. You have to be your own judge as whether or not to take the risk.

32 Horological Times/July 1986 I I I 1 r------i AWIBENCHCOURSESP.O . Box 11011 . Cincinnati, OH 45211 BENCH I am interested in your bench course to be presented on ____ _ O()f/R~E~ Please send more information.

AUGUST 1986 Add ress ______17 T Nashville, TN BROUGHTON 17 T Boston, MA CARPENTER City State Zip ______17-18 w Newark, NJ GEIGER L------SEPTEMBER 1986 PROGRAMS INSTRUCTORS 6 T Denver, CO CARPENTER A Meter Microamps and Modules ...... •.Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS 6-8 u San Francisco, CA PERKINS B AWi Certified Citizen Quartz Watch Technician _ .Buddy Carpenter, CEWS 7 T Kansas City, MO CARPENTER 14 T Austin, TX BROUGHTON C Pulsar Quartz Analog Y590 and Y112 . _ . _ . __ .James H. Broughton, CEWS 14-17 M Seattle, WA BAIER D Seiko Quartz Combos ...... _ .Leslie L. Smith, CMW, CEWS 21 D St. Paul, MN SMITH E Quartz Watch Test Equipment .... __ ....•.Calvin E. Sustachek, CMW 28 T Columbus, 0 H BROUGHTON F Common Sense Quartz Watch Repair...... Robert F. Bishop OCTOBER 1986 G ESA Digital/Analog 900.911 and ETA Analog 961.101 ...... William Biederman, CMW 5 T Richmond, VA CARPENTER H ESA Analog Quartz Repair ...... James Adams, CMW 6-10 N Kansas City, MO ' IVERSON and LaCHAPELLE I Using the Watchmakers Lathe...... • . .Archie B. Perkins, CMW 12 T Huntsville, AL BROUGHTON L Introduction to Striking Clocks...... Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D., CMC, CMW 18-19 w San Francisco, CA GEIGER M Striking Clocks-Advanced Seminar ...... •Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D., CMC, CMW 19 A Baltimore, MD JAEGER N Introduction to Clock Repair ...... Ron Iverson and Jim Lachapelle 22-24 Cincinnati, OH PERKINS R Introduction to Jewelry Skills .. ...Marshall F. Richmond, CMW 25-27 u Cincinnati, OH PERKINS S Management Seminar...... Fred S. Burckhardt NOVEMBER 1986 T Retrofitting ...... Buddy Carpenter, CEWS James H. Broughton, CEWS 9 T Philadelphia, PA BROUGHTON U Advanced Lathe Course ...... Archie B. Perkins, CMW FEBRUARY 1987 V Antique Watch Restoration . . . . . • • . .Archie B. Perkins, CMW W Restoration of Fusee Watches ...... Ralph Geiger, CMW, CMC, CEWS 8 T Baltimore, MD BROUGHTON

WATCH & CLOCK INFORMATION, PLEASE-W. H. Same­ Ready Now! lius. The writing of Samelius edited by O.R. Hagans . $30.00 THE WATCH ESCAPEMENT-Henry B. Fried. How to ana­ lyze, adjust, repair the lever and cylinder, and more .. $8.00 B BENCH PRACTICES FOR WATCH/CLOCKMAKERS-Hcnry B. Fried. Hairspring practices, replacing regulator pins, jewel- 0 . ing and dial repairs ...... $9.00 CAVALCADE OF TIME-Henry B. Fried. Highlights of the Zale Private Collection of Timepieces ...... $10.00 •------­ Make check or money order payable to AWi PRESS. 0 THE BEST OF J.E. COLEMAN-CLOCKMAKER-Orville R. I U.S. FUNDS ONLY, PLEASE. Hagans. An aid to solving everyday problems in clock repair- ing ...... $30.00 Please send the following book (s) : K (List by title) ESSENCE OF CLOCK REPAIR-Sean C. ("Pat") Monk. A practicing clockmaker reveals repairing secrets . . . . $19.95 · s QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE CLOCKMAKING PROFESSION-AWi. Experts answer everyday questions about clockmaking ...... $14.95 from · QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE WATCHMAKING PROFESSION-AWi. Helpful information on repairing AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE watches...... $5.95 3700 Harrison Ave., P.O. Bo x 11011 A Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 REPAIRING QUARTZ WATCHES-Henry B. Fried. Includes Name ______a basic course in electricity & electronic horology . . $22.95

w STRIKING CLOCKS-Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D. A hands-on sur- Address ______vey for the clockmaker...... $7.95 City ______I THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER-Marvin E. Whitney. A con­ cise treatise on the fascinating nautical timepiece ... for the State ______Zip Code ____ collector as well as the horologist...... $75.00 All Books Shipped Postpaid I I July 1986/Horologica/ Times 33 I between the minute and hour wheels, causing the wheels ELAPSED TIME CLOCKS and hands to return to their original zero position. (Continued from page 14) THE CHRONOGRAPH MECHANISM (Figure 5) The components of the chronograph mechanism, wise. The action of the spring pawl on the ratchet teeth located on the top side of the top plate, consisted of a group limited the rotation to a distance equivalent to the size of one of levers, wheels, springs, cams, etc., similar to those of the of the ratchet teeth or 20 degrees. Since the column wheel elapsed time mechanism. Their position and action were, like­ was designed with one column for every three ratchet teeth, wise, controlled by the rotation of the columns on the chron­ there were three different positons which the columns could ograph column wheel. This, in turn, was actuated by the assume. depression of the chronograph push button. Each depression Zero or Flyback Position - in this, the normal of the button moved the indexing lever and pawl causing the idling position, the mechanisms were set as follows: column wheel to turn counterclockwise 1/18 of a revolution l. The extension arm of the elapsed time idler lever or 20 degrees as controlled by the spring pawl. This column was resting against one of the column wheel columns, allowing wheel was also designed with one column for every three the idler wheel to be meshed and moved with the drive wheel ratchet teeth, allowing the columns to assume three different which was integral with the cannon pinion on the center wheel positions. arbor but not in contact with the elapsed time wheels. This Zero or Flyback Position - in this, the normal drive wheel on the center arbor rotated once every hour at idling position, the mechanisms were set as follows: the same rate as the regular minute hand. 1. The arm of the center seconds idler lever, carrying 2. The arm of the elapsed time flyback lever was the idler wheel, was resting against one of the column wheel pushed between two of the column wheel columns by the columns, allowing the attached idler wheel to be meshed with extension spring. The flyback lever shoe was pushed against the drive wheel on the rear protrusion of the fourth wheel both of the heart cams on the elapsed time minute and hour arbor but not in contact with the center seconds wheel. wheels, causing them to remain in their zero positions. The This drive wheel on the fourth arbor rotated once every signal flag attached to this lever was at its extreme left posi­ minute at the same rate as the regular second hand. tion, allowing the white color to show through the aperture 2. The arm of the minute register idler lever was in the dial. resting against one of the column wheel columns, allowing Start (Running) Position -- with one indexing turn it to be meshed with the minute register wheel, but out of the of a ratchet tooth which rotated the column wheel-a distance way of the orbit of the center seconds indexing pointer. equivalent to 1/3 of a column: 3. The arm of the brake lever was resting against one 1. The intermediate notch in the arm of the flyback of the column wheel columns, freeing it from contact with lever was engaged on the corner of one of the column wheel the center seconds wheel. columns, causing the flyback shoe to be disengaged from 4. The arm of the chronograph flyback lever was the heart cams to allow the wheel's freedom of movement. pushed between two of the column wheel columns by the The signal flag was moved to its intermediate position which pressure of the lever spring, and the two hammer faces of the allowed the red color to show through the aperture in the lever were pushing against the heart cams on the center dial. seconds and minute register wheel, respectively, causing 2. The extension arm of the idler lever was pushed them to remain in their zero positions. between two of the column wheel columns by the lever spring. Start (Running) Position - with one indexing turn The idler wheel and pinion were moved into meshed position of a ratchet tooth: with the elapsed time minute and hour wheels (see Figure 4) 1. The arm of the flyback lever was engaged on one which caused the respective wheels and hands to start rotating of the column wheel columns, causing the two hammer at the same rate as the regular minute and hour hands. faces to be- pulled away from the two heart cams to allow the Stop Position - with the next indexing turn of a wheels to rotate freely. ratchet tooth: 2. The arm of the center seconds idler lever was 1. The arm of the idler lever was again engaged on pushed between two of the column wheel columns by the one of the column wheel columns and the idler wheel and pinion became disengaged from the minute and hour wheels PLUNGE A PUSH BUTTON and moved away. This caused the wheels and hands to stop rotating at some point around the dial. The action of the IN~E~~~G ______, stabilizer springs on the minute and hour wheels caused I'----- CENTER SECONDS HANDS them to remain stationary at their stopped position. F~~~~~M ----~: 2. The end point of the flyback lever arm was en­ ''!1-T---l'- ---- ~~~~~TEER HAND gaged on one of the column wheel columns. This made the signal flag move to its extreme right position, which allowed FOURTH WHEEL both the red and white color to show through the aperture in M.~H'~eLCA -----...~­ M. A. INDEXING the dial. FINGER M.A. IDLER Flyback Position - with the next indexing turn of a LEVER ratchet tooth. 1. The idler lever remained in the previously dis­ engaged psoition. 2. The arm of the flyback lever was pushed between two of the column wheel columns again and the flyback shoe FIGURE 5 - Schematic diagram of the chronograph mechanism moved into position again against both of the heart cams in the running position.

34 Horological Times/July 1986 lever spring, causing the idler wheel to move into mesh with RATCHET WHEEL INDICATOR HANO the center seconds wheel (see Figure 5) and to start rotating the wheel, arbor, and sweep center seconds hand around the main dial. The exact limit of the motion of this lever was controlled by an eccentric stud on the plate. 3. The arm of the minute register idler lever was pushed between two of the column wheel columns by the lever spring, and the idler wheel moved into position closer to the center seconds wheel where it was actuated by the index­ ing finger at the end of each center seconds wheel revolution, causing the minute register wheel and hand to advance the equivalent of one minute. The exact limit of the motion of this lever was also controlled by an eccentric stud on the top plate. 4. The brake lever remained in the previous dis­ engaged position. Stop Position - With the next indexing turn of a ratchet tooth: 1. The arm of the center seconds idler lever was again engaged on one of the column wheel columns causing PLUNGER SPA ING the idler wheel to be disengaged from the center seconds FIGURE 6 - Schematic diagram of the manual setting of the wheel. civil date mechanism. 2. The minute register idler lever remained in the previous position. ratchet teeth limited the rotation to exactly one tooth, the 3. The arm of the brake lever was pushed between equivalent of one graduation on the civil date dial. two of the column wheel columns by the lever spring. The 2. When the pressure on the plunger was released, brake end of the lever moved against the teeth of the center the compression spring returned the plunger to its original seconds wheel which caused the wheel and center seconds flush position and the extension spring attached to the setting hand to stop instantly at some point on the dial. The minute lever pulled the lever and trip spring away from the date register wheel and hand were held in their stop position by ratchet wheel to their original disengaged positions. the action of the spring pawl on the teeth of the wheel. Automatic Daily Indexing (see Figure 7) 4. The flyback lever remained in the previously l. The hour wheel of the clock made one complete disengaged position. revolution each 24 hours and carried an indexing pin on its Flyback Position - with the next indexing turn of outer circumference. The hour hand was set on the hour wheel a ratchet rooth: in such a position that, as the time approached 24:00 o'clock, 1. The center seconds idler lever remained in the the indexing pin gradually engaged one end of the indexing same position. lever which protruded over the hour wheel. It slowly pushed 2. The arm of the minute register idler lever was the lever to the left and caused the indexing pawl on the other again engaged on one of the column wheel columns causing end of the lever to become disengaged from one date ratchet the idler wheel to be moved away again from the orbit of the wheel tooth and fell back behind the next tooth. Between indexing finger. 23:56 and 24:00 o'clock, the indexing pin passed and became 3. The arm of the brake became engaged on one disengaged from the end of the lever and the extension spring of the column wheel columns, causing it to move away from pulled the lever back to its original position. This caused the center seconds wheel again into the disengaged position. the indexing pawl to rotate the date ratchet wheel a distance 4. The arm of the flyback lever was pushed between equivalent to one graduation on the dial as controlled by the two of the column wheel columns again by the spring. The spring pawl. hammer faces of the lever were pushed against the heart cams on the center seconds and minute register wheels causing the (Please turn to the next page) wheels, arbors, and hands to return to their original zero posi­ INDEXING PAWL tions.

THE CIVIL DATE MECHANISM DISENGAGING The components of the civil date mechanism, located LEVER SPRING on the left dial train bridge of the pillar plate, consisted of a 31-tooth date ratchet wheel and indicator hand, together with DISENGAGI NG --;>-)'/ / the levers and springs required for daily automatic indexing LEVER by the clock itself, and manual indexing by push button at any other desired time. Manual Setting (see Figure 6) 1. Manual depression of the civil date setting plunger INDEXING LEVER moved the setting slide in against the abutment pin on the setting lever causing the trip spring on the end of the lever to push against one of the teeth on the date ratchet wheel and rotate the wheel and indicator hand approximately 1/31 FIGURE 7 - Schematic diagram of the automatic daily indexing of a revolution. The action of the spring pawl against the date of the civi I date mechanism.

July 1986/Horo/ogica/ Times 35 IN THE SPOTLIGHT (Continued from page 24)

The most important of his inventions that we know after Fritts had laid down the method and principle as clear about was his apparatus for photographing sound. He made as daylight, and about five years before his patent expired and the voice vibrate a disc like the diaphragm in a telephone. became public property. The movement of the diaphragm in turn was made to vary the When Hopkinson died, Fritts' support was thereby amount of light admitted through a tiny slit into a black box. cut off at one stroke while he was at the height of his activity, This varying light coming through the slit was photographed and after only a little time of real work. He had to let his on a roll of sensitized paper or parchment which was moved assistants go. He had to give up his three rooms and move to past the slit by hand or mechanically, exactly like the film a cheaper place. There were differences with the magazine in a movie camera. (Fritts used paper or parchment because for which he edited questions and answers, and soon he no it was not until 1889 that George Eastman invented photo­ longer had even this work to support him. He then depended graphic film.) Thus, the photographic record on the sensi­ on the pittance that came in from his two books. tized strip reproduced the voice in all its modulations, but in After that time he was always on the move, from terms of light instead of sound. lodging house to lodging house. He almost always owed When Charles Edgar Fritts died in· 1905, motion money for the room he had just left. Sometimes he was put pictures were still in their infancy. Not many people--perhaps out. Wherever he went he toted along a locked chest con­ nobody-foresaw their dazzling future. Did he see the possi­ taining his papers-the most precious possession he had in the bilities of his device in connection with this new develop­ world. Once a landlady seized it for room rent. Some un­ ment? Nobody knows. At that time he had not even been known friend paid the landlady $25 and Fritts got his chest granted his patent after all those years. He was filled with a back again. The chest held all the old man's dreams. Who fury of broken dreams. He fretted and fumed and stormed as knows what possibilities were in that chest if he could only letters passed back and forth between him and the patent have carried them out? office. This is a tragic portrait of a great inventor born too It is ironic that the means were at hand from the soon! If he had lived today, Fritts would very likely be safe beginning for uniting pictures with sound. Yet the world and secure and honored as a reasearch man-a brilliant one-in had to wait for talking pictures until 1927-28, nearly 50 years the laboratories of a big corporation.

PROFIT FROM QUARTZ WATCH REPAIR WITH BOOKS BY LOUIS A. ZANONI ELAPSED TIME CLOCKS Well-known Authority and Teacher of Quartz Watch Repair (Continued from page 35)

THE QUARTZ WATCH REPAIR MANUAL VOL. 2 NEW! This fully illustrated book is a compre­ 2. The rear arm of the disengaging arbor was located hensive text on trouble shooting and repair­ ing quartz analog and digital watches. It against the winding arbor in such a position that, when the is an extension of "The Digital Watch Re­ winding knob and arbor were pulled out for setting purposes, pair Manual" (see No. 2 below). It is written especially for the jeweler, watchmaker, the base cone of the winding arbor pushed the rear disengaging or entrepreneur who plans to replace bat­ arm to the right causing the front disengaging arm to move teries and service quartz watches. The the disengaging lever to the left. The pin on the end of the many il lustrations make quartz watch repair easy , even for those with no background in disengaging lever engaged the upper arm of the indexing pawl electronics! Price .. . $19.95 causing the pawl to be disengaged from the date ratchet teeth Plus $1.50 Shipping and the arm of the indexing lever to move out of the way of THE DIGITAL WATCH REPAIR MANUAL the indexing pin on the hour wheel. When the winding knob (A Complete Manual on the Repair was pushed back into the winding position, the pawl and of LED & LCD Watches!) A 76-page, fully illustrated "How to Do" manual lever were returned to their original positions without dis­ which covers the most frequently encountered repairs required on turbing the setting of the wheel and indicator hand. Thus, both the LED and LCD watches. The information is fundamental the manual setting of the clock hands did not, at any time, and pertinent to all quartz watches. Price ... $19.95 Plus $1.50 Shipping disturb the position of the civil date indicator. ZANTECH BOOKS SHOW YOU HOW! NOTE: The action of the small indexing lever trip spring against the abutment pin on the indexing pawl, which PLEASE SEND ME: extended through the eccentric hole in the lever, caused the ------­1: "The Quartz Watch Repair Manual"@ $19.95 plus shipping D # pawl to fall back from one ratchet tooth to another when the D # 2: "The Digital Watch Repair Manual"@ $19.95 plus shipping lever was acted upon by the indexing pin, thereby indexing the wheel one graduation when the lever returned to its D BOTH books@ $39.90 plus $3.00 shippin& Send Check original position. However, when the disengaging lever was U.S. FUNDS ONLY, PLEASE. or Money Order to: activated, the pressure of the trip spring was counteracted NAME~~~~~~~~~~~- HOROLOGICAL TIMES P.O. Box 11011 sufficiently to allow the pawl to be completely disengaged ADDRESS~~~~~~~~~~ Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 from the date ratchet teeth and returned to the same tooth CITY /STATE/ZIP without moving the wheel when the lever was released. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-

36 Horological Times/July 1986 BATTERY NEWS By Ewell Hartman, CMW

BATTERY NUMBER SYSTEM AWi, S42: Add to Sears, 8069 AWi, S52: Add to Sears, 8065 book- Refer to your 1985-86 Battery Number System AWi, S54: Add to Sears, 8067 let to make the following additions and deletions: AWi, S56: Add to Sears, 8073 AWi, A17: (New listing, following A15) Section II - Specifications and Cross-Reference AWl,A17: Add to Voltage, 1.50 AWi, A 17: Add to Diameter, AWi, S15: Delete Sears, 8027 9.5 AWi, A17: Add to Height, AWi, S21: Add to Sears, 8046 3.6 AWi, A 17: Add to Maxell, AWi, S23: Add to Sears, 8051 *LR936 AWi, R07: Delete Sears, AWi, S29: Add to Seiko, TR927W 8015 AWi, L02: Add to Sears, AWi, SlO: Delete Sears, 8026 8015 AWi, L30: (New listing, following L28) AWi, SlO: Add to Sears, 8044 AWi, L30: Add to Voltage, AWi, S32: Add to Sears, 8047 3.00 AWi, L30: AWi, S34: Add to Sears, 8049 Add to Diameter, 12.0 AWi, L30: AWi, S38: Delete Sears, 8044 Add to Height, 2.5 AWi, L30: AWi, S38: Add to Sears, 8048 Add to Renata, CR1225 AWi, S40: Add to Bulova, 617 AWi, S40: Add to Sears, 8052 "ENTHUSIASM MAKES THE DIFFERENCE"

'UDE

TECHNICALLY WATCHES (Continued from page 20)

Figure 8

The tempering process is shown in Figure 7. Some clean ash tray sand is placed in a bluing pan. Then the spring is placed cleaned side up on the sand making sure that all of the spring touches the sand evenly. Now heat the pan and sand over an alcohol lamp flame. Watch the color change on the surface of the spring carefully and when the color changes from purple into the first blue color, remove the spring from the sand with a tweezer and place it on a slab of glass or piece of metal to cool slowly. Now that the spring has been hardened and tempered, the steady pins are placed in the spring, providing it has steady pins. Figure 8 shows how a steady pin is inserted into a spring. A steel taper pin is used for the steady pin. The spring is supported on a flat top stump which has a hole just large enough to clear the pin. A flat ended solid punch is used to stake the pin into the spring until it is tight. After the pin is staked tightly into the spring, then the pin is cut off and made flush with the top of the spring. Then the other end is cut off the proper length and its end filed flat and the burr Finishing springs and levers will be discussed next removed from around its end. Next, the spring is finished to month. match the finish· of the other springs in the watch.

July 1986/Horological Times 37 ... from all around the ASSOCIATION ...

CONVENTIONS

Watchmakers Association of Ohio 40th Annual Convention July 25, 26 & 27, 1986- Columbus, OH

Nebraska & South Dakota Jewelers Association CANADA 81st Annual Convention The Ontario Watchmakers Association held their August 22, 23 & 24, 1986 49th Annual Members Meeting at Loews Westbury Hotel, Ramada Inn - Kearney, NE Toronto, Ontario, Canada on April 27, 1986. At the business session in the morning members Iowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Association elected the following officers to represent them for the 1986- Convention and Trade Show 1987 term of office. They are: Michael Cosby, president; September 13-14, 1986 David Azoulay, first vice-president; Stewart Gold, second Des Moines Marriott Hotel - Des Moines, IA vice-president, Daniel Benson, third vice-president; Dave Murakami, treasurer; and Robert Phillip, secretary. North Dakota Jewelers and Watchmakers Association Michael Cosby, department coordinator for the Convention and Trade Show Horological Division of George Brown College in Toronto, September 13-14, 1986 gave a slide presentation on several of the latest quartz models Seven Seas Motor Inn - Mandan, ND arriving on the market. Member Nancy Hill, graduate of George Brown, gave a presentation on the history and de­ Arizona Horological Association Convention velopment of the North American Watch Company. September 27, 1986 The meeting was followed by the Presidents' Recep­ Hassayampa Inn - Prescott, AZ tion and Banquet. Horological Association of Indiana Annual Convention September 27-28, 1986

Florida State Watchmakers Association Convention October 24, 25 & 26, 1986 Palm Beach, FL

Illinois Watchmakers Convention November 1-2, 1986 Clock Tower Inn - Rockford, IL

TEXAS The Texas Watchmakers Association held their annual President-elect Michael Cosby, CMW congratulated by Immediate convention May 2-5 at the Ambassador Plaza in Dallas, Texas. Past President James Hill. A "Clock Seminar and Clinic" was presented by Cecil Mulholland on Friday, May 2. Registration took place Friday evening and Saturday morning. NEW YORK Numerous programs were held on Saturday. They Mr. Henry Loeser presented a program of extra­ included: "Troubleshooting a Quartz Step Motor" by Louis A. ordinary Cartier Clocks to the Horological Society of New Zanoni of Zantech; "The New Material Story-New Hints" by York, Inc. on Monday, May 9 at the Hotel Summit, New Jack Schecter of Seiko Watch Co.; and "Restoration of Ma­ York. terials Utilized in Clock Cases" by Jo Ann Griffin of Dallas He began with a short history of the Cartier opera­ Art. Saturday evening's banquet speaker was Fred S. tions in Paris, New York, and London and their clientele Burckhardt, President of AWL of royalty and financial tycoons. A variety of desk and mantel On Sunday morning the Past Presidents' Breakfast clocks were presented with color slides to the audience. was followed by a general assembly of the association's mem­ The clocks were made of precious metals and stones-- l 8KT bers and the installation of new officers. The convention gold, turquoise, diamonds, mother of pearl, jade, etc. They ended on Monday, May 5 with a day-long Seiko Bench Course were designed and crafted individually. by Arnold Morris of Seiko Services. 'iiCffi

38 Horological Times/July 1986 New Members of the Board of Directors

he recent election for the Board of Directors We wish to thank the members of AWI who has resulted in the following members being voted in this election. Also we are grateful to the if elected to serve a fhree-year term as an A WI candidates; all had impressive qualifications, having Director: James H. Broughton, CEWS, of Columbus, already contributed to A WI in many ways. The new OH; Alice Carpenter, CEWS, CMW, of Tarboro, NC; directors have talents and strengths to bring to the Wes Door, CMW, of Kennewick, WA; Marshall F. Board, and we look forward to utilizing these in Richmond, CMW, of Milan, IN; and Marvin Whitney, striving to better the field of horology for the mem­ CMW, CMC, F AWI, of Alexandria, VA. bers of the American Watchmakers Institute.

BROUGHTON CARPENTER DOOR

RICHMOND WHITNEY

July 1986/Horological Times 39 New Products and Literature

BROCHURE DESCRIBES STAKING TOOL BOOKLET CATALOG AVAILABLE BOOKKEEPING SYSTEM FOR FROM K&D MANUFACTURING FROM GESSWEIN JEWELRY STORE OWNERS K&D has a new 24-page booklet: Gesswein has released a new 16- Jewelry store owners can stream­ Staking Tools and How to Use page tool, equipment and supply line the processing of key business Them. This booklet contains catalog tor the jewelry industry. data, according to a new tour-page K& D staking tool sets, an ex· This detailed and fully illustrated brochure. This brochure de­ panded line of K&D punches and catalog contains over40 new prod­ scribes the Safeguard "One-Write stumps, along with other staking ucts. Record Keeping Systems"-single­ tool accessories. The catalog contains the entry bookkeeping systems. For your copy of K&D's latest in casting supplies, finish­ The Safeguard One-Write Staking Tool Booklet, send $2.00 ing equipment, gemological aids, System permits the owner to col­ to : K&D Manufacturing Corp.,, soldering and engraving tools, pre­ lect, organize, standardize, and P.O. Box 521, Lebanon, NH cious metal collecting and refin ­ process business information in 03766; (603) 448-1113. ing systems, books and video one writing. At the heart of the Octagonal Clock from Seiko tapes. system is a writing board that There are two discount holds several forms aligned one coupon offers in this catalog; beneath another. Writing on the 20% off Gesswein ultrasonic top form produces the same nota­ KASSOYINTRODUCES cleaning solution, and a $60 re­ tion on the forms beneath.The SARTORIUS MU LTl­ bate on ultrasonic cleaners. For end result is a more efficient me­ [KE] FUNCTION SCALE a free copy contact Gesswein, thod of keeping records that can A small, lightweight, stable multi­ 255 Hancock Ave., Bridgeport, CT lead to improvements in the over­ STAKING fun ction scale is now available 06605; (203) 366-5400. all success of a jewelry store. from Kassay. Although it has 15 By reducing all record TOOLS weighing options, the carat and keeping to a single entry, the One­ gram modes are most commonly Write System el iminates the pos­ and how to use them .• _ used. Ranges are 152 carats to sibility of data-transfer errors and 0.001 and 110 grams to 0.01. cuts the work of bookkeeping by Made in Europe, the scale features as much as 75%. In addition, the K & D since I built-in automatic calibration, full system permits break out of re­ 1876 I range taring, 2 sliding doors, ceipts by type of service and by K&O MANUFACTURING CORPORATION POST OFFICE BOX 521 • 250 BANK STREET and a leveling bubble. The scale employee. This can help manage­ LEBANON NEW HAMPSHIRE 03756 measures 7-1/4 x 7-3/4 x 8-1/4" ment monitor the success of their K&D Staking Tool Booklet (SCG150D); it retails for $1195. services for better staffing deci­ An optional travel pack at $95 in­ sions. cludes a carrying case, a circular To receive the brochure, SEIKO OCTAGONAL draft shield, and international write to: Department J, Safeguard WALL CLOCK WITH power supply. Business Systems, Inc., 455 Mary­ SKELETON MOVEMENT For more information land Dr., Ft Washington, PA The styling of the new Seiko oc­ contact KASSOV, 32 W. 47th New Gesswein Tool, Equipment and Supply Catalog 19034. tagonal wall clock defines the St., New York, NV 10036; or tone of a Iibrary or study. A gold­ call toll free: 1 (800) 1-KASSOV. tone ringed face with black Roman numerals in four quadrants is ac­ BATT-TRON IC PREMIERES centuated by a gold-tone skeleton SYSTEM FOR FINDINGS design set against a black back­ Batt-Tronic Corp. has created ground. This new Seiko octagonal "Findings Keeper," to store, or­ wall clock is bordered by a gold­ ganize, and inventory findings. tone ring mounted on a smoked Now available is the Ring Guard acrylic octagon. Findings Keeper. Retailers order­ The suggested retail price ing this pre-packed kit will re­ is $115, and the Seiko octagonal ceive an assortment of 1Y:zmm clock is available from the nation­ (36), 2 mm (24), 2Y:z mm (12), wide network of Seiko distribu­ and 4Y:z mm (6) ring guards, plus tors. quality precision long nose pliers

40 Horological Times/July 1986 {retailer cost $39.95). "Findings NEW VIGOR TOOLS CATALOG Keeper" assortment includes a FROM B. JAOOW & SONS, INC. clearly illustrated how-to instruc­ B. Jadow & Sons, Inc. announces tion booklet-a helpful guide for the publication of the new Vigor proper attachment of findings. Tools, Supplies and Equipment All finding items are also Catalog, BK-135. Th is 325-page available open stock and the clear­ edition, totally revised and up­ ly labeled storage cases allow in­ dated, has a complete selection of ventory to be taken at a glance. products for jewelry making, For further information contact craftsmen, hobbyists, watch and Batt-Tronic Corp., Battery Park, clockmakers. P.O. Box 10, Orangeburg, NY Some of the new items are: 10962, or call toll free nationwide the Matt Iine of wax and equip­ 1 (800) 431-2828; New York ment, Quantum precision elec­ state 1 (800) 942-1944, 10 AM tronic balances, larger models of to 7 PM, Mon. through Fri. steam and ultrasonic cleaners, additional styles of Italian and Spanish rolling mills, instructional video tapes, and a complete watch, clock and instrument tool and Bestfit assortment system Here are two Waltham models for men and women with mobile listing. bracelet attachments. The cases are in 20-micron goldplate; the The Vigor BK-135 Catalog watches are water resistant to a depth of 30 m. They have ET A GENTS OW". TIJ\,llWlllO is available from your jobber or YIU.OW ...... Swiss quartz movements and scratch-resistant sapphire crystals. - I1 .. o c - · ' ~- wholesaler. Or you may contact Contact: Waltham Watch Co., 33-00 Northern Blvd ., Long Island

--1' "ING GV1'AOS B. Jadow & Sons, Inc., attn. CDS, v__.,.., 11't1'111• • '"' GGiCI ~· -- City, NY 11101; (718) 361-7721. u'°Dln GENTS...... GIANT...... r JU MBO 53 West 23rd St., New York, NY •"i-- I 2r>"m I2\1.mm/4~...,,,., E::J CJ E::::J 10010-4275. JEWEL-LITE SHOWCASES white. The average efficiency of PROVIDE EFFICIENT, the Jewel-Lite is 4,500 lumens EVEN LIGHTING compared to 1,500 for the in­ Merchandise can be seen at its candescent lamp and 1,900 best with the new Jewel-Lite in­ lumens for the fluorescent lamp. terior lighting system that pro­ Also, the Jewel-Lite consumes vides even distribution of high­ 75% less energy than the average intensity Iight inside Store Kraft incandescent lamp. Display Cases, according to Gary Inquiries concerning this Cook, vice president sales of the product should be directed to Store Kraft Mfg. Co. which has one of the following sales offices: patented the new lighting system. California (415) 447-7111; The commonly used Illinois (815) 744-3081; Texas fluorescent and incandescent (214) 586-0888; Georgia (404) showcase lighting systems create 977-0100; Nebraska (402) 223- uni ighted dead spots at the ends 1219. of showcases, Cook said. The Jewel- Lite system corrects the From the collection of Aero Watch pocket watches in solid problem by distributing light 925 sterling silver, above is a model that combines modern tech­ evenly throughout the case which nology (ETA quartz movement) with the centuries-old art of Cook says accents merchandise niello work. The case back is, in fact, ornamented with genuine from the top of the case to the niello: paste of lead, copper, silver, sulfur, and sal ammoniac bottom, front to back, and end processed in the enameling furnace. For further information to end. write: Aero Watch SA, Chaussee De La Boine, CH-2001 Neuch­ The Jewel-Lite system is atel, SWITZERLAND. based on a sequence of 13-watt lamps available in warm and cool

41 New Products and Literature

Arch Crown Tags

NEW POCKET CHRONOGRAPH able temperature monitors. Pre­ manufactures a distinctive line of FROM REVUE THOMMEN cision control of the cleaning plastic, parchment, and pressure Revue Thom men produces and cycle is a feature of these cleaners, sensitive tags for pricing mer­ assembles watches in its daughter widely used in laboratories, the chandise. For free samples and company in La Chaux-de-Fonds jewelry industry, and in many the company's color catalog, including a new pocket chron­ professional industries. write: Arch Crown Tags, Inc., ograph cal. J.B. 15, which today The brochure is available 277 Halsey St., Newark, NJ is the only existing chronograph by writing: Branson Cleaning 07102; (201) 623-145!.i; or call fitted with a mechanical 19'" Equipment Co., Parrott Or., toll free 1 (800) 526-8353. pocket movement, assembled in Shelton, CT 06484; or call (203) small quantities. Its movement 929-7301. has a lever escapement and a movable plot, which allows pre­ cision adjustment. This move­ ment contains 17 jewels and is constructed for 18,000 alternan­ BRANSON ces per hour. Below the mineral glass of the chronograph are the Breguet hands of selnder shape. The dial is available in white lacquer or in a champagne color with black Roman figures for the hours, Arabic numerals for the minutes, seconds, and minute counter. For more information con­ tact Rewe Thommen, 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Branson Brochure

In 1700, the famed English clockmaker Samuel Watson crafted the original from which this "Samuel Watson" bracket clock was adapted by Howard Miller. The magnificent timepiece in a hand-glazed solid cherry case has a brass finished dial with silvered chapter ring and ap­ plied Arabic numerals, and its key-wind movement plays the chimes of Westminster, Winchester, and St. Michael's cathedrals. Dimensions are 14%"H x 1l"W x 7%"0. Suggested retail is $345.00 (model 612-429). Contact: Howard Miller Clock Co., 860 East Main St., Zeeland, Ml Pocket Chronograph from Revue Thommen 49464; (616) 772-9131.

BROCHURE FROM BRANSON ARCH CROWN TAGS NEW INSULATED COMPUTER cifically designed for the pro­ DESCRIBES NEW BENCHTOP FOR DISPLA VS DATA SAFE FROM EMPIRE tection of computer processed in­ UL TRASDNIC CLEANERS Attractive tags play an important SAFE COMPANY formation. New four-color, four-page bro­ part in merchandising and fre­ Empire Safe Company recently Prototypes of the safe were chure describes the Bransonic® quently represent the only con­ previewed their new "EMC" line exposed to temperatures reach­ ultrasonic benchtop cleaners tact between you and your of insulated Computer Media ing 1700°F for more than one with digital timers and calibrat- potential customer. Arch Crown safes. These safes have been spe- hour. The internal temperatures

42 Horological Times/July 1986 of the safe remained below 125"F and humidity levels remained *CORRECTION* below 80%. These outstanding In the May '86 issue of the HT, resu Its meet the high criteria "New Products" section listed necessary for the protection of the price of Gesswein's Casting magnetic media from the ravages Kit at $170 (page 43), which is of fire, excessive heat, and humid· incorrect. Gesswein's catalog ity. The "EMC" safes also pro· has this Casting Kit at a savings vide protection from demag· of $170. netization, unauthorized access, and theft. The interiors of the safes are specially constructed to accommodate diskettes, cas· settes, tapes, reels, data cartidges, and other media formats. For more information con· tact: Empire Safe Company, 103 Grand St., New York, NY Insulated Computer Data Safe from Empire Safe Company 10013; or call collect (212) 226-2255. posing all parts to the powerful blast. Th is product has a wide CA~KERINTRODUCES NEW PROGRAMMABLE variety of applications, including TEMPERATURE CONTROL cleaning of nonferrous castings, Automatic temperature control forgings, and stampings. Heat for most electric kilns is easily treat scale can be quickly removed obtained with this unit from the from hardened steel parts. The Cas·Ker Company. It features Blast Mill is less than four feet eight cycle programability, up high and accepts loads from 100 to 14 hours of operating time to 200 lbs. A companion dust with total temperature cut-off at filter is available. end of burnout period. It has Contact: W.W. Sly Manu· solid state electronic design for facturing Company, P.O . Box trouble-free operation and ac· 5939, Cleveland, 0 H 44101; curacy. It comes with a built-in phone: 1 (800) 334-2957; in Ohio circuit breaker; 110 volts. (The (216) 238-2000. kiln must be equipped with a pyrometer to use the unit.) The CA 1520 Controller is priced at $650. For further information contact Cas-Ker Company, 2121 Spring Grove Ave., P.O. Box 14069, Cincinnati, OH 45214; (513) 241-7073. Finely appointed in silver-plated sol id brass and lucite, this con· temporary quartz table alarm from Bulova has the elegance of pure, clean lines. Its suspended dial, in spun silver with a brushed center, Sly Manufacturing Tilted Blast Mill highlights four diamond-cut sticks at the quarter hour positions. TILTED BLAST MILL Black arrow-shaped hands and silvertone alarm ind icator and sweep FROM SLY MFG. second make this timepiece useful as well as attractive. The model The Sly Tilted Blast Mill is built When you write these advertisers shown is 81912 "Silvern," with dimensions 6-1/8 x 4%x rn. ltre· for rugged, economical part about their products, tell them tails for $89.95. Contact: Bulova Watch Company, Inc., Clock Divi· cleaning. Its tilted barrel creates you saw it in the HT! sion, Bulova Park, Flushing, New York 11370; (718) 565-4200. a thorough mixing action, ex·

July 1986/ Horo/ogical Times 43 News 1n the Trade

MASTEilCARD ALERTS chologist, columnist, author, and United States subsidiary of Tag· Manager, announced by Arthur MERCHANTS TD JULY 1 business consultant, will be the Heuer, the 125-year-old Swiss J. Cohen, President of Pulsar DEADLINE FDR keynote speaker at Jewelers of manufacturer of watches, stop Time. She formerly held the posi· HOLOGRAM CARDS America's 1986 Convention Pro­ watches, and timing instruments. tion of Sales Promotion Super­ After a three-year phase-in by gram on Sunday, July 27, at the Mr. Loraux has spent 20 years visor. banks, holograms become man· Ziegfeld Theater, and will dis· in the watch business in various Ms. Tinkoff, who joined datory on all MasterCards on cuss "The Psychology of Dis· assignments around the world, Pulsar in April '85, is responsible July 1, and retailers are being told counting" to the jewelers attend· but for the past four years has for the coordination and admin· not to accept cards without ing the program. been the general manager of a istration of advertising, sales pro· them. Dr. Brothers previously ad­ Swiss-German company building motion and trade show activities. In the pioneering applica­ dressed the industry at JA's 1982 power stations across Iraq. His She reports directly to Jonathan tion of laser technology to card Convention, and the audience re· experience in the watch business Nette/field, General Manager, Mar­ security, MasterCard International action poll, conducted immediate­ includes a period of time with the keting/ Advertising. added the hologram-a three­ ly after her presentation, was SS/ H Group (Omega and Tissot) dimensional image on silver or unanimous in applauding her in­ as Manager of Human Resources. gold foil-to its cards in 1983. formation and her approach. Although born in Paris, Mr. Its aim was to stem the ever-rising As a consultant to the Loraux is a Swiss citizen and was tide of counterfeit crime by business world, Brothers creates educated in France and Switzer­ creating cards which are diffi­ and performs in films and sem­ land . He holds graduate degrees cult, if not impossible, to success­ inars designed for corporate per­ in Electrical and Mechanical En· fully duplicate. In the years since, sonnel training programs. She is gineering from the University of not a single counterfeit card con· a frequent guest on network Besancon in France as well as a taining a hologram has surfaced. television programs and various diploma in Psychology from the According to MasterCard panel shows, and is a news com­ University of Paris. President and CEO Russell Hogg: mentator for TVN, Inc., a syn­ Loraux's background is in "We are gratified that our mem· dicated television news service. the technical, marketing and per­ ber ban ks' Iasses from card * * * * sonnel fields, and he is a member counterfeit, which reached a rec· SOME HIGHLIGHTS OF OTHER of the Swiss P.R. Society. Denise Tinkoff ord high in 1983, have come JA CONVENTION EVENTS: Tag-Heuer's headquarters down significantly since we intro­ July 26-"Motivation ... the Key in the United States is located at duced our counterfeit-proof card. to Employee Productivity" is the 960 S. Springfield Ave., Spring­ We sent a clear message to would· field, NJ. title of seminar to be given by PJC INSTRUCTOR ELECTED be crooks when we introduced David W. Richardson. Richardson VICE-PRESIDENT OF STATE the card; a message which will be­ will identify techniques to man­ WATCHMAKERS come even clearer now that we've age, direct, counsel, praise, and Dwight Tubb, instructor of horol· mandated it" correct the complex individual ogy (watch repair) at Paris Junior To support the recognition needs and goals of employees. College, was elected vice president and understanding of the halo· July 29-Stephen Sanders, prin· of the Texas Watchmakers Associ· gram at point-of-sale, MasterCard cipa/ of Stephen Sanders & As· ation at the annual convention is providing an "Honor These sociates, will present "Update on recently in Dallas, TX. Cards" flyer to be posted at cash Store Design & Display." This As vice president of the or· register locations. It instructs will encompass general store design ganization, Tubb will meet with store personnel to accept only principles such as lighting, form, other members of the board of ho/ ogram Master Cards after July 1 and imagery. Storefront concepts directors on a quarterly basis and shows examples of the red and display windows in relation to oversee committees and make and ochre and gold MasterCards, to location in malls and type of other decisions affecting the as· and the BusinessCard. The flyer is identity desired will be discussed. sociation. Composed of some 150 Jean-Pierre Loraux provided free of charge to banks Information: (212) 489-0023. Texas watchmakers, the associa· for distribution to their mer· tion attempts to upgrade the chants. watchmaking profession by offer· LORAUX NAMED TINKOFF NAMED ASSISTANT ing educational seminars and pro· DR. JOYCE BROTHERS PRESIDENT OF MARKETING MANAGER grams on the latest techniques in TO SPEAK AT JA'S TAG-HEUER U.S. OF PULSAR TIME the industry. CONVENTION Jean-Pierre Loraux has recently Denise Tinkoff was recently pro­ Tubb, who served on the Dr. Joyce Brothers, noted psy- been named president of the moted to Assistant Marketing board of directors last year, was

44 Horological Times/July 1986 nominated by a committee for and 18 Kt gold jewelry, items of nounced the appointment of according to the latest edition of the vice presidency this year. semi-precious gemstones, freshwa­ James Paolello as the company's Business Facts and Figures, pub­ Bob Howell, a PJC instructor in ter pearls, and ivory jewelry. new jewelry representative for the lished by Union Bank of Switzer­ horology and jewelry, also is a Over the past 10 years states of Kentucky, West Vir­ land (UBS). In a survey of Swiss member of the association board. Hong Kong has developed into ginia, Virginia, and Tennessee. watchmakers conducted by UBS A member of the PJC one of the leading jewelry manu­ Paolello, who was associated with in cooperation with the Federa­ faculty since 1984, Tubb com­ facturing and trading centers in the Harry Greenwold-Wallenstein­ tion of the Swiss Watch Industry, pleted PJC's watchmaking pro­ the world and has gained a repu­ Mayer Company for the last 10 more than 60% believe that gram in 1977. He was employed tation for quality and jewelry years, has over 20 years experi­ medium-term business will in­ as a watchmaker at Farr Jewelry design as well as that of a trend­ ence in the jewelry field. crease. in Sulphur Springs and later setter in the international mar­ owned his own business. He is ket. During this period, a number "The Swiss Watchmaking TOMCHIN JOINS certified as an Accutron and of Hong Kong designers have Industry" is available upon re­ MATHEY-TISSOT quartz watch technician by Bulova won awards in international and quest from the Union Bank of Michael Tomchin has been ap­ Watch Company. regional jewelry competition. Switzerland. For more informa­ pointed Vice President of Sales The United States remained tion about this or any other UBS for the distriblltion of Mathey­ Hong Kong's largest market in publication, contact Patricia Ham­ Tissot watches. Tomchin was DATES SET FOR 1987 WATCH, 1985 accounting for 51% of its zahee at Doremus Public Rela­ formerly the Vice President of CLOCK & JEWELRY FAIR IN total exports in this category. Dur­ tions, 120 Broadway, New York, Marketing and Sales for ITC. SINGAPORE ing the same year, U.S. pur­ NY 10271; (212) 964-0700. The second European Watch, chases of genuine jewelry of pre­ Clock and Jewelery Fair to be cious and semi-precious stones NEW PUBLICATION held in Singapore will take reached $115 million, a gain of FROM UBS FORECASTS place September 19-22, 1987. 10% over 1984. The first edition of this "off­ BRIGHT FUTURE spring" of the Basel European The future looks bright for Swit­ zerland's watchmaking industry, Watch, Clock and Jewelery Fair SWIERK NAMED was very well received in October VICE PRESIDENT OF last year by both exhibitors and LES MUST DE CARTIER BELOW: Gerald Batt (right), executive vice president of Omega Watch visitors alike, and it was origin­ Alan E. Swierk has been named Corporation, shows the correct time to former astronauts (left to right) ally intended to repeat this year. Vice President of Les Must de Gen. Thomas P. Stafford, who also is Omega chairman of the board; At the request of many exhibitors, Cartier, the wholesale division of Capt. Eugene A. Ceman, and Adm. Alan B. Shepard. Omega's "Speed­ the event has now been switched Cartier, Inc., it was announced master Chronograph," also known as the "Moon Watch" is the official to Autumn next year. This by Kenneth Watson, President of watch of NASA, and the company saluted its NASA affiliation plus "Mini-EWCJF" in Singapore is the firm. the 25th anniversary of man in space with a reception in New York. once again being organized by the In his new post, Mr. Swierk The event capped an ad and public relations program that also included Swiss Industries Fair. will be responsible for the sales a 10-page advertorial section appearing in Time magazine authored and marketing of Cartier's whole­ by Stafford and recounting the accomplishments and perils of space sale product lines of watches, exploration over the past quarter century. accessories, and frangrances in NEW YORK/LOS ANGELES the U.S. He will oversee the cur­ TO HOST HONG KONG rent sales force and regional man­ JEWELRY SHOWS ager organization and will direct Under the sponsorship of the the future expansion of Les Must Hong Kong Trade Development de Cartier in America. Council, 18 of the territory's Swierk formerly was gen­ leading jewelry manufacturers and eral manager of the Jean LaSalle exporters will mount two jewelry division of Hattori, Inc., and exhibitions: one in New York at served as a regional sales manager the St. Regis Hotel July 30 to for Cartier. August 1; the other in Los Angeles in the Regency Room of the Bilt­ more August 5-7. Among the JAMES PAOLELLO NEW many fine pieces on display at SALES REPRESENTATIVE both venues will be an array of FOR CAS-KER diamond jewelry, 10 Kt, 14 Kt, The Cas-Ker Company has an-

July 1986/Horologica/ Times 45 Classified Ads

WATCHMASTER, Serial 2490, operating in­ ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT SERVICE (tf) WE ARE FACTORY AUT HORIZED SERVICE FOR : structions. Best offer. (616) 798-1960. * VIBROGRAF/PORTESCAP TRADESMEN * TICK-0-PRINTIL&R WE SERVICE All MAKES OF ULTRASONl<..'S AND OTHER WATCH RATE RECORDERS AND EQUIPMENT JACK PHILLIPS CLOCK MAINSPRING LUBRICANT. Excellent ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE NEW SWISS QUARTZ MOVEMENTS CUSTOM # 2 LOWER ALCATRAZ PLACE MILL VALLEY, CA 94941 adhesion, rust preventative, EZ to apply. Once FITTED to Diamond, Gold, Antique, Senti­ FOR INFORMATION CALL (4151381Ul89 tried you will never use another brand. $9.98, mental Watches and Pockets-all sizes. Rolex, 4 oz. KAZEN & SON, 215 N. Shia., Corunna, MI 48817. (517) 743-3431. Omega, Longines, Lecoultre, Girard Perregaux, Chains Soldered; Beads & Pearls Strung; Ring Bulova, Elgin , Gruen, Accutron, Hamilton, Sizing; New Shanks. Send for price list. Vicki Movado. Service and Quartz Conversion. Elia Victoria Jewelers, 689 N. Cass, Westmont, FOR SALE: Complete Digital and Quartz ALFONSO ZAMORA, 395 Bernhardt Drive, IL 60559; (312) 654-2055. Buffalo, New York 14226; (716) 839-5091. Watch Repair Equipment. Used only 4 months. Module tester, timer, stereo microscope, ultra­ sonic cleaner. Complete set of hand tools, CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING. caseback press set, pushbuttons, spare parts, Wh eels, pinions, barrels or whatever, repaired Fast Service - Write for free brochure and price about 100 batteries. Complete user manuals. or made new. Repivot arbors. No watch parts. list. Fcndleys, 2535 Himes St. , Irving, TX This cost over $4,000 in June 1985. First Ken Leeseberg, Ken-Way Inc., 19 W. 672 75060. (tf) Army Trail, P.O . Box 219, Addison, Illinois $2,800 takes it all!! Call (817) 458-7232 any­ time. 60101. (tf) DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Specialize on changing dial. feet positions to fit Webster-Whitcomb lathe, stand, motor, and WATCH REPAIR TRADE SHOP. Mechanical the quartz movement. Send your works to rheostat, 29 chucks in box. $350.00. Assorted and Electronic. CMW. Repairing since 1948. KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., tools, and cabinets. Request price list. (918) Write for price list. Joel Watch Shop, P.O. Box Suite 625 , Seattle, WA 98101. (206) 623-2452. 665-8625. 246 , Roan Mountain, TN 37687. (tf)

--NOTICE-- WATCHMAKER ESTATE SALE-A large in­ PEARL AND BEAD RESTRINGING. 48-hr. Due to illness "Bud's" Watch Repair Service ventory of watch repair materials, tools and re­ service. Professional work. Julie Buttars, 126 lated items is for sale to a serious buyer, or North Main; P.O. Box 653, Pocatello, ID has discontinued his repair services until further group of buyers, by the administrator of the 83204;phone: (208)233-1194. notice. estate of a respected AWi Certified Master Watchmaker. Includes many rare parts for wrist CUSTOM BALANCE STAFFS cut and fitted. and pocket watches; precision tools; bench; Since 1922. James Bourne, CMW, P.v. Box CLOCKS: gearcutting, retoothing, repivoting, lathe; cleaning machine; etc. Must see. Reply 215, Ladysmith, WI 54848. Phone (715) 532- rebushing, jeweling. REPAIRING: Chrono­ to: Watchmaker Estate Sale, P.O. Box 25226, 3166. (10-6) graphs/timers, fusees, aircraft clocks, antique Nashville, TN 37202-5226. clocks/pocket watches. Send sample for es­ timate, SASE. NIEGELS HOROLOGY, Roy CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, Niegel, CMC, CMW, 101 E. St. Joe Drive, Spirit ATIENTION WA TCFIMAKERS material and tools. Custom made to order or Lake, ID 8 3869. (208) 623-4330. (tf) TSST IS MY NAME AND, IF YOU CAN SAY repair of gears, pinions and parts. Catalog IT, YOU KNOW HOW FAST I WORK. I'M A $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, At­ Hand Engraving for the Trade. SASE for Prices. HIGHLY CONDUCTIVE, QUICK-DRYING water, OH 44201. (216) 947-2268. (tf) STEVEN M. KAMINSKY, 414 S. MAIN ST., CIRCUIT REPAIR MATERIAL FOR BROKEN P.O. BOX 964, FINDLAY, OH 45839. COIL WIRES, OPEN P/C BOARD CIRCUITS, AND OTHER FINE WIRE CIRCUITRY. AP­ VERGE BALANCE STAFFS and other repairs PLY ME RIGHT FROM MY BOTTLE WITH and restorations for Fusee watches. 18th and Watch wheel cutting, repivoting and staffing. NO MIXING, NO MESS. NO REFRIGERA­ 19th century English WATCH HANDS made WE CAN MAKE ANY PART TION OR HEAT IS REQUIRED AND YOU to order in authentic styles. Fine antique WE CAN RESTORE ANY WATCH DON'T WAIT OR PAY FOR REPLACEMENT PARTS. ONE BOTTLE OF ME CAN MAKE clocks, watches and chronometers repaired. Free estimates, references on request, Ralph Geiger, CMW, CMC, CEWS, 8105 Valley expedient services are provided. SASE for brochure. OVER 100 REPAIRS. SEND FOR ME NOW! I'M JUST $13.50 + $1.50 POSTAGE AND Farms Trail, Indianapolis, IN 46224. 5-1 European WATCH & CASEMAKERS, LTD. 140 N. 7th Ave., P.O. Box 1314 HANDLING FROM TSSTCO., P.O. BOX 1451, Highland Park, N.J. 08904 SO. GLENS FALLS, NY 12803. SEE YOU Tel. (201) 937-5611 SOON!! CLOCK WHEELS-Reasonable rates and fast service. Wheels made from sample. Kazen & Son, 215 N. Shia., Corunna, MI 48817; (517) 743-3431. 5-4 FOR SALE MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed lowest prices - as low as $2.30. 2-yr. gua;.antee. Large selection of hands and numerals. Free CUTTERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pin­ Be All the Clockmaker You Can Be! delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. Hall ions. Module 0.2 to 1.0. Constant profile pro­ Wheel Cutting Engines Clock Shop, 1512 Central Ave., Charlotte, NC ducing traditional square bottomed teeth, Starting at $425.00 28205. (tf) 104 sizes. Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven QL:Jo_·· sizes), Dead beat (set of four sizes). Ratchets 60° and 70°. All cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 VISA & High Speed Steel, and heat treated under vac­ MasterCard PARTS AND SERVICE HEADQUARTERS cum. Also cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. FOR SCHATZ, KUNDO, KOMA, KERN, HAL­ Send for Information Sheet, prices and order LER, HERMLE, NISSHINDO. MECHANICAL­ forms to: P.P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Catalogue $3.00 QUARTZ- ELECTRONIC- CIRCUIT BOARDS­ Horological Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, Ken Law, CMC, CMBHI 1 MAINSPRINGS - SUSPENSION SPRINGS - Upper Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, Eng­ Highway Contract 30, Box 825 MOVEMENTS, ETC. GREENHILL CLOCK land. (tf) Prescott, Arizona 86301 SERVICE, P.O. Box 2247, El Cajon, CA 92021.

46 Horological Times/July 1986 Ads are payable in advance $.50 per word, services will not be accepted. Confidential ads must be received 30 dnys in advance (e.g. Feb. $.60 per word in bold type. Ads are not com­ are $4.00 additional foe po~tage and handling. issue closes for copy on January L). Horological missionable or di:scount:ible. The publisher re­ Classified Display Ads are S25.00 per column Times P.O. Bo'X 1 lOU, 3700 Harrison Avenue, serves the right to edi1 aU copy. Price lists of inch. The first of the month is issue date. Copy Cincinnati, OH 4521L: (513) 661-3838.

SUPERCELL Full time conservator of all types of timekeep­ ••••• Batteries ••••• ing devices, 95% antique (from 16th century), AS LOW AS .14 CENTS EACH! 5% high quality modern. Responsible for con­ WANTED #392, 364, 396, 362, and many more. New servation and restoration of all types of horo­ Supercells, pi'emium maxi-silver oxide guar ... We buy al I types of antees long life up to 3 years. Fresh from logical mechanisms using traditional (and occa­ the factory direct to you. Ten individually sionally antique) machinery, tools and tech­ Jewelers Scrap-Any condition. sealed to a card. First time offered. Now you can buy direct from the source. For 24 niques. Use tools such as wheel& pinion cutting hour express service call: engines, lathes, fusee engine, drill presses, $27.00 lb. Gold-filled Watchbands TOLL FREE 800-334-0854, ext. 891 turns, pivot polishing tools and clockmakers $12.00 lb. Plated Watchbands or write throw for restoring and making replacement $12.00 lb. Silver Watch Batteries TIME SOURCE INTERNATIONAL parts. Traditional techniques for filing flat, (Mixed acceptable-We sort free of P.O. BOX 613 cleaning, polishing brass, dial silvering and gild­ charge & we pay for mercury) Baltimore, MD 21133 ••• ing must be used. Keep records on all activities. May on occasion give lectures and instructions $5.50 oz. G.F. Optical, Cases, etc. KUNDO AND SCHATZ PARTS mechanical, on the above. Applicant will be tested on the GOLD-95% of the market price electronic, and quartz. Try us! Baltimore Clock following: use turns, clockmakers throw, for 10K, 14K, etc. Parts, 2004 Hillside Drive, Baltimore, MD filing flat. Certification is required as a Master We buy fi Ii ngs, bench sweeps, filters 21207. (tf) Watchmaker/Clockmaker of the American Watchmakers Institute or as a Craft member and buffing waste . of the British Horological Institute (available FOR SALE: Boley Lathe, Pivoting Attach­ to Americans by correspondence course). Please call or write for more information: ment, Motor, Rheostat, 16 Collets, & CoUet Salary $30,000.00 a year. Send resumes to: Holding Tailstock: $450. Watchmaster Ultra­ ILLINOIS JOB SERVICE, Attn: Jim Baldwin, SPECIAL TY METALS REFINING CO. sonic WT Cleaning Mach., Ex. Condition: 107 N. Third Street, Rockford, IL 61107. $285 +Shipping. I (804) 420-5407. 10 Bay St., Dept. 107 Westport, CT 06880 WATCHMAKERS-If you ace looking for a QUARTZ WATCHES, MOVEMENTS, HANDS, future and have full experience on repairs on 1(800) 426-2344 electronic and conventional type watches, we CROWNS, LOW PRICE. Send SASE. Sundial "We will match any offer and still give Time Co., P.O. Box 3444, Lavale, MD 21502; would like you to answer this ad. Salary and you our quick, dependable service." (301) 777-3730. commission to start, plus a look into the future. Send resume to: JEWELRY REPAIR CENTERS, P.O. Box 22112, Pittsburgh, PA 15222; or call Postage and UPS reimbursed. CLOCK TIMER.Regulate your clocks electron­ (412) 833-0808. ically with the new CTI Clock Timer. Can be used on almost any clock with mechanical es­ WATCHMAKER TO THE TRADE: If you do capement. Pendulum clocks large and small, clean quality work, and can handle 20 to 30 lever or cylinder escapements, anniversary order jobs a week. We pay top rate weekly. IMMEDIATE CASH PAID for Gold, Silver, clocks, etc. For information write: Can Tho ARLINGTON, P.O. Box 12430, Columbus, Platinum, any form! Jewelry scrap, filings, Instruments, P.O. Box 80113, San Diego, CA OH 43212. gold filled, sterling! Immediate top dollar cash 92138. (tf) offer return mail! Satisfaction guaranteed. Ship insured/registered mail to: American Metals Co., 253 King St., Charleston, SC 29401; EXPERT WATCHMAKER. Produce highest 400 DAY DOMES: 51/z'' x 11" glass, $7 .5 0 (803) 722-2073. (tf) each, or 4 for $26, UPS included. For price quality jeweled, digital, analog, repair. Tech­ list of 35 other glass and plastic domes, send nical leader and patient teacher. Benefits. Write SASE to C.A. Zimmerman, P.O. Box 8973, Peoples Jewelry Co., P.O. Box 97 3, Toledo, OH Ft. Collins, CO 80525. 43696. (9-12) PATEK PHILLIPE-Mens wristwatches. We are interested in buying individual pieces and col­ lections for an investment group. Paying $600 WATCH MATERIALS: Bulova, Accu tron, Ham­ for round, $1000 for square, and $1500 for ilton, etc. G.S. cabinets: $450, L&R Tempo rectangular. Watches with complications such as 400 cleaner, movements and other equipment. WANTED TO BIJY chronograph, moonphase, repeater quoted on H.L.M., 3811 Columbus Ave., Norfolk, VA an individual basis. Call: Paul Duggan (617) 23504. 256-5966, 4-9 PM E.S.T. Payment in any Jewelry/Watch Retail or Repair Business. I am form; you may specify. a well-trained professional of 38 with an FGA doing GIA and trained at bench on watch re­ pair, jewelry repair, and stone setting. Current­ HELP WANTED ly employed with major chain as manager. I want to buy into an ethical, well-run and pro­ fitable business related to the jewelry industry. SCHOOLS JEWELRY INSTRUCTOR-Oklahoma State The business should net at least per year University Technical Branch, Okmulgee, is seek­ 50,000 after all taxes, etc. I can put down approx. ing a Jewelry Instructor to teach jewelry manu­ CLOCK REPAIR TRAINING fo r the serious 35,000 cash. Please send details and complete facturing and repair at the technical college resident student. Contact Gerry Hough, Parkland information to: Box level. Graduate of Jewelry Manufacturing/ 0686-l,Horo logical Times, College, 2400 W. Bradley Ave., Champaign, IL P.O. Box 11011, 3700 Harrison, Cincinnati, Repair school or equivalent and three years 61821. Phone (217) 351-2225. 4-4 OH 45211. successful experience in jewelry business re­ quired. To receive full consideration send tran­ scripts, resume, and complete mailing address­ Correspondence courses in Quartz-Accutron­ es of three references to: OSUTB, Okmulgee, GOOD USED FLOOR MODEL POLISHER & Watchmaking-Jewelry-Lost Wax Casting and Personnel Office, Okmulgee, OK 74447 before ROLLING MILL. GRAHAM JEWELRY, Rubber Mold Making. Free folders. Watchmak­ deadline on August 1, 1986. Phone: (918) 542 Virginia Ave., Bluefield, VA 24605; phone ing Institute of Canada, 1012 Mt-Royal St. 756-6211. AA/EOE. (703) 322-4385; evenings (703) 322-4854. East, Montreal, H2J 1X6; (514) 523-7623. (tf)

July 1986/Horo/ogical Times 47 Dates To Remember Ad Index

JULY1986

12-13-lndiana Jewelers Association Conven­ 6-8-Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); American Perfit ...... 10 tion; Indianapolis Convention Center; Archie B. Perkins, instructor; San Indianapolis, IN; (317) 631-8124. Francisco, CA. Becker-Heckman . 20 13-14-Jewelers of America New Orleans Trade 7-Retrofitting Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Borel ...... 7 Show; Hyatt Regency; New Orleans, LA. Carpenter, instructor; Kansas City, MO. Bowman School. . 20 25-27-Watchmakers Association of Ohio 40th 13-14-lowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Asso­ Annual Convention; Columbus, OH. ciation Convention and Trade Show; Des Moines Marriott Hotel; Des Moines, Cas-Ker. Inside front cover 26-30-Jewelers of America International IA; (515) 274-1596. CFI ...... 23 Jewelry Trade Show and Convention; New York Hilton and Sheraton Centre 13-14-North Dakota Jewelers and Watch­ Hotels, New York, NY; (212) 489-0026 makers Association Convention and Empire Clock, Inc. . . 15 or 489-0023. Trade Show; Seven Seas Motor Inn; Esslinger . .3, 25 Mandan, ND; (701) 667-2836.

AUGUST 1986 14-Retrofitting Bench Course (AWi); James Gem City ...... 21 Broughton, instructor; Austin, TX. 9-11-Mississippi Jewelers Association Con­ vention; Royal D'berville Hotel, West 14-17-Striking Clocks - Advanced Seminar Jewelmont...... 4 Beach, Biloxi, MS. (AW I); Joseph G. Baier, instructor; Seattle, WA. 17-Retrofitting Bench Course (AWi); James S. LaRose ...... 17 Broughton, instructor; Nashville, TN. 21-Seiko Quartz Combos Bench Course (AWi) ; Leslie L. Smith, instructor; St. Paul, MN. 17-Retrofitting Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Marshall-Swartchild ...... 11 Carpenter, instructor; Boston, MA. 27-Arizona Horological Association Conven­ Maxell ...... Outside back cover tion; Hassayampa Inn; Prescott, AZ. 17-18-Restoration of Fusee Watches Bench Course (AWi); Ralph Geiger, instructor; 27-28-Horological Association of Indiana New York Jewelers ...... 21 Newark, NJ. Annual Convention.

22-24-Nebraska & South Dakota Jewelers 28-Retrofitting Bench Course (AWi); James Oceanside ...... 4 Association 81st Annual Convention; Broughton, instructor; Columbus, OH. Ramada lnr.; Kearney, NE. Paris Junior College ...... 23 23-24-Minnesota Jewelers Association Fall Convention and Trade Show; Radisson OCTOBER 1986 South Hotel, Bloomington, MN; (612) Seiko ...... Inside back cover 483-3613. 5-Retrofitting Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Richmond, VA. 23-27-Frankfurt International Autumn Fair, Zantech ...... 5 Frankfurt Fairgrounds, Frankfurt, West 6-10-lntroduction to Clock Repair Bench Germany; (212) 974-8856. Course (AWi); Ron Iverson and Jim LaChapel le, instructors; Kansas City, 28-31-European Watch, Clock and Jewellery MO. Fair-Singapore '86; Hyatt Regency; Singapore; Telex: 62 685 fairs ch. 12-Retrofitting Bench Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Huntsville, AL. 31-4-lnternational Watch, Jewellery and Silver Trades Fair; Earls Court; London, 18-19-Restoration of Fusee Watches Bench England; (212) 593-2258. Course (AWi); Ralph Geiger, instructor; NOVEMBER 1986 San Francisco, CA. 1-2-lllinois Watchmakers Convention; Clock SEPTEMBER 1986 19-Meter Microamps and Modules Bench Tower Inn, Rockford, IL. For infor­ Course (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; mation: (309) 467-5016. 5-7-lntermountain Jewelers Association 25th Baltimore, MD. Silver Jubilee Convention; Elkhorn 9-Retrofitting Bench Course (AWi); James Resort; Sun Valley, Idaho. 22-24-Using the Watchmakers Lathe Bench Broughton, instructor; Philadelphia, PA. Course (AWi); Archie B. Perkins, in­ 5-7-Tennessee Jewelers Convention, Marriott structor; Cincinnati, OH. Hotel; Nashville, TN; (615) 893-9162. FEBRUARY 1987 24-26-Florida State Watchmakers Association 5-10-Bijorhca: Fall International Jewelry, Convention; Palm Beach Airport Hilton; 8-Retrofitting Bench Course (AWi); James Clocks & Gifts Exhibition; Porte de Palm Beach, FL. Broughton, instructor; Baltimore, MD. Versailles, Paris, France. (212) 869-1720. 25-27-Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); 13-17-INHORGENTA '87, Munich Trade 6-Retrofitting Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Archie B. Perkins, instructor; Cincinnati, Fair Centre. For information: (201) Carpenter, instructor; Denver, CO. OH. 652-7070.

48 Horological Times/July 1986 The New Seiko Service Kit and Case Tightening Equipment puts the tools you need right where you want them.

This is the equipment to have for performing simple Case Tightening Equipment includes: bracelet adjustments and battery replacements on Seiko • One case tightening tool {S-220). watches. Specially designed to keep everything you need • 15 metal supporting disks used in pressing snap-type at your fingertips. case backs. That means extra convenience for you. And faster, more With the Seiko Service Kitand Case Tightening Equipment efficient service for your customers. there's no need to waste time and money ordering tools Each Seiko Service Kit contains: and parts separately. All the tools you need are neatly • One mini screwdriver for link adjustments. stored in two compact, handsome cases. So you can put • One watch bracelet cutter (DM-1) for men's and ladies' these materials where you need them the most. mesh bracelets. There's never been a more convenient way to provide • One case opener (S-280) for snap-type case backs. professional service for your customers. The New Seiko • One battery hatch opener (S-822). Service Kit and Case Tightening Equipment. Available only • One case opener (194) for screw-type case backs. through your Seiko Distributor. • One case holder (S-2100) with 12 sliding reversible clamps to conform with case lug size. Used in conjunction with case opener (194). • One non-magnetic plastic tweezer. • Seiko Battery Chart and Battery Replacement Manual. • Seiko Battery Hatch Gasket Assortment (HG72). SEIKO Contains 16 different size gaskets. 72 total fitting,'"" '" 175 case numbers. With alphanumeric case nurr."-.x MAN INVENTED TIME. guide. SEIKO PERFECTED IT.