Patek Philippe Watches Volume Ii Volume Ii
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patek philippe watches Volume ii Volume ii Chronometers 9 Pocket and Deck Chronometers, Pivoted Detent and Spring Detent Escapement, 1850 –1994 11 Pocket and Deck Chronometers, Lever Escapement, 1872 – 1959 21 Pocket and Deck Chronometers, Pivoted Detent, Spring Detent, and Lever Escapement, Tourbillon Regulator and Karussel, 1892 – 1983 51 Pocket Chronometers, Pivoted Detent, Spring Detent, and Lever Escapement, with Horological Complications, 1845 – 1997 63 Marine Chronometer, Precision Clocks and Wrist Chronometers, Spring Detent and Lever Escapement, Lever Escapement and Tourbillon, 1895 – 1987 71 Art Nouveau and Art Deco 85 Watches made for Gondolo & Labouriau 121 Watches made for James Ward Packard and Henry Graves, Jr. 141 Watches made for James Ward Packard, 1918 – 1927 143 Watches made for Henry Graves, Jr., 1919 – 1948 153 Wristwatches without Complications 175 Wristwatches with Complications 255 Wrist Chronographs, 1924 – 1966 257 Split-Seconds Wrist Chronographs, 1923 – 1970 273 Calendar Wristwatches, 1926 – 2002 279 Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar Wristwatches, 1942 – 1989 301 Repeating Wristwatches, 1901 – 2000 313 5 The Calatrava Cross, Emblem of Patek Philippe 327 World Time and Jump Hour Watches and Louis Cottier Prototypes 337 Cloisonné Enamel, Painted on Enamel, and Engraved Watches 355 Watches with cloisonné enamel and Painted on enamel Dials, 1940 – 1966 357 Painted on enamel and engraved Pocket Watches, 1955 – 1988 367 Clocks and Dome Clocks 391 Commemorative Watches, Calibre 89 and Star Caliber 2000 413 commemorative Watches 415 calibre 89 427 Star Caliber 2000 435 Glossary 443 Watchmakers in this Catalogue 449 Several Important Exhibitions 453 Works Cited and Reference Books 455 Colophon 458 chronometers The invention of the balance spring in 1675 greatly improved the regularity of timepieces and made horology a science. Maritime nations were aware of the need for precise and dependable watches in order to determine the position of a ship at sea. Without precise timekeepers, long sea voyages were fraught with danger. After the 1707 shipwreck in the Isles of Scilly, in which an entire fleet of four vessels and the lives of over one thousand four hundred sailors were lost, the British Parliament ofered a “Longitude Prize”. Thus, a reward was to be given to anyone who found a dependable and efective method of determining longitude at sea. Many took up the challenge, among them John Harrison (1693 – 1776), John Arnold (1736 – 1799), Thomas Earnshaw (1749 – 1829) and Thomas Mudge (1715 – 1794) in England. Mudge constructed the first watch with a lever escapement, which would later be universally adopted. Frenchman Pierre Le Roy (1717 – 1785), who in 1748 invented the detent escapement used in modern chronometers, and Neuchâtel native Ferdinand Berthoud (1727 – 1807) also carried out research that would contribute to the development of a veritable industry. The timepieces in this chapter are arranged according to type: for example, pocket and deck chronometers and wrist chronometers, as well as by their type of escapement (spring detent escapement, pivoted detent escapement, lever escapement). By the late 18th century, timing contests had begun to be held, in which marine, ship, and pocket chronometers were scientifically examined in specialised laboratories and astronomical observatories. The timepieces were issued a Bulletin de marche (Rating- certificate) and the most precise among them received prizes and special mentions. These included the “record de pièce” that was awarded to the pieces that obtained the best results ever achieved at the Geneva Observatory. Patek Philippe watches took part in these national and international contests, achieving remarkable results. Pocket Chronometer with Spring Detent Escapement, Isochronous Helical Balance Spring, Power Reserve, Fusee and Chain Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève, No. 65 852 Delivered on May 29, 1885, to H. Müller & Co., Open-faced, key winding and setting, with the Patek Philippe agents in Shanghai. following complication: This watch’s movement was probably made – Power reserve indication (sector at 12 o’clock) using an ebauche from the Victorin Piguet & Fils silver case, yellow gold pendant neck, hinge and lip workshop, purchased on July 7, 1884. The chronometer was fnished on May 27, 1885. White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock It is one of a very few pocket chronometers with fusee and chain ever produced by the company; Gold Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised three are currently known to exist: seconds hand – No. 3228, with pivoted detent escapement Movement 20’’’, ¾ plate, Piguet Frères ebauche, (Inv. P-1332, movement only). nickeled, with fusee and chain, 32-hour power – No. 65 852, with spring detent escapement (the reserve, spring detent escapement, cranked above watch). compensation balance with gold timing screws, – No. 65 859, with spring detent escapement isochronous helical balance spring with terminal (Inv. P-1058, p. 69, watch with several curves, diamond endstone, adjusted by master horological complications). adjuster Alexis Favre (1885) 1884 –1885 Inv. P-1059 H. 81.3 mm / ∅ 55 mm / thickness 17.4 mm C HRONOMETERS Pocket Chronometer with Spring Detent Escapement, Isochronous Helical Balance Spring and Power Reserve Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève gold and platinum timing screws, and isochronous hunter case, stem winding and setting, with the palladium helical balance spring with terminal curves following complication: 1894 –1897 – Power reserve indication (sector at 12 o’clock) Inv. P-293 Yellow gold case, No. 218 846 H. 79.3 mm / ∅ 56.2 mm / thickness 18 mm White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock This chronometer was in the collection of actor Gold Poire hands; counterpoised gold seconds hand Michel Simon. Movement No. 90 534, 20’’’, Ambroise Duret The front and back covers are engraved in a ebauche, gilt, jewels in gold chatons, spring detent vermicelli pattern; the former has a plain circle in escapement, cranked compensation balance with its centre. Pocket and Deck Chronometers, Pivoted Detent and Spring Detent Escapement, 1850–1994 17 Deck Chronometer with Lever Escapement Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève Results of 1922 Observatory Trials Open-faced, stem winding and setting – Mean daily rate +/- 0.15 Yellow gold case, No. 411 898 – Mean variation due to a position change +/- 0.97 – Compensation error (for 1° centigrade) +/- 0.031 White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, – Resumption of the rate + 0.02 subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand At the 1923 timing contest of the Geneva Observatory, this chronometer received a “Bulletin Movement No. 191 390, 22’’’, LeCoultre & Cie and de Première Classe” with First Prize mention. Victorin Piguet & cie ebauche, gilt, “Extra” quality, raised bridge for the centre and third wheels, centre Results of 1923 Observatory Trials wheel with jewel in gold chaton, counterpoised – Mean daily rate +/- 0.09 straight line lever escapement, Guillaume balance – Mean variation due to a position change +/- 0.48 and balance spring with terminal curve, diamond – Compensation error (for 1° centigrade) +/- 0.017 endstone, adjusted by master adjuster François Modoux (1922 and 1923) 1919 –1924 Inv. P-1588 H. 83.3 mm / ∅ 60.1 mm / thickness 17.8 mm At the 1922 timing contest of the Geneva Observatory, this chronometer received a “Bulletin de Première Classe” with Honourable mention. C HRONOMETERS Jump Hour Deck Chronometer with Lever Escapement and Power Reserve Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève Results of Observatory Trials Open-faced, stem winding and setting, jump hours in – Arithmetical sum of the 40 variations of the daily an aperture at 12 o’clock and central minutes, with rate 8.72 the following complication: – Arithmetical sum of the 6 position variations 1.36 – Power reserve indication (sector at 12 o’clock) – Compensation error (for 1° centigrade) 0.029 Yellow gold case, No. 412 304 – Resumption of the rate - 0.62 Cream-coloured enamel dial, regulator type, This appears to be the only jump hour chronometer painted arabic numerals for the hours and minutes, with power reserve produced by Patek Philippe. subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Breguet minute hand; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 191 439, 22’’’, LeCoultre & Cie and Victorin Piguet & cie ebauche, rhodium-plated, “Extra” quality, raised bridge for the centre and third wheels, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, Guillaume balance and Breguet balance spring, eight adjustments, adjusted by master adjuster François Modoux (1924, 1925, 1928 and 1930) 1919 –1926 Inv. P-163 H. 81.9 mm / ∅ 59.7 mm / thickness 16.9 mm This chronometer was never sold. At the 1930 timing contest of the Geneva Observatory, this chronometer received a “Bulletin de Première Classe” with Second Prize mention (category A: deck chronometers; size: 50 mm). Pocket and Deck Chronometers, Lever Escapement, 1872 –1959 47 Quarter Repeating Pocket Chronometer with Pivoted Detent Escapement Patek & cie, Genève, No. 1129 Following servicing in 1996 –1997, the watch is hunter case, key winding and setting, with the displayed without its dial. The case front and back following complication: are engraved with foliage and vertical stripes. – Quarter repeating on two gongs (activated by the Only six Patek Philippe quarter repeating bolt on the pendant) chronometers are known: Yellow gold case – No. 1129, with