Luxury Watch Straps-.rrencli.rasliionforWatches Top of the Line + Hand-made Straps in a Variety of styles + Luxury Craftsmanship Tradition, Rare skins, Rich Choice of Colors + Non-allergenic & Waterproof lining + + Stainless Steel and Nickel-Free Gilded Buckles +

We are so confident that you will be delighted with the quality and workmanship of these straps that we will send them out for your inspection and you may return them for full credit if you are not entirely satisfied. These straps have the look, smell, and soft feel of straps selling for twice as much! You could easily take off the pre-ticket pric­ ing and use your own to obtain the BEST PROF/Tyou can in your particular area.

This sturdy, black rotating display contains 72 of the most If you would popular styles and price points. This very attractive design prefer other gives you the maximum exhibition space and simple, straps from this line, instead of rational stock management. Made of heavy metal, display those offered in measures 7" wide x 6" deep x 14" high, is anti-theft, the assortment displays 24 straps and stores up to 150 straps. we will be happy to exchange Keystone Pricing them for you. 72-Piece Asst. with FREE Counter Display

...... --· ··--. --­ - - . ~ - r.. ;"P."'··~·t~«r.J'.~"1~i'foJ. .- .. . - -· . - -

95 95 #579 s9 • Crocodile Grain • Colors: Black or Brown #504 $12 • Stitched Pig Skin • Colors: Black, Brown or Tan

- ' -- : ~ . . ;:!· ~ ..... ' ·.-•.J,>} c... -·:~:?:!.::~-...:.-.::...... _,.....,-a·"'""'~·:"••·: "'.:":"·~·-1JCC'"" J '-.-:r~:-.-.:~~ --~

95 95 #509 s14 • Stitched Crocodile Grain •Colors: Black or Brown #563 $21 • Box Calf Skin •Colors: Black, Brown or Burgundy

...,.,.,. ling 1165 Medallion Drive• Saint Paul, MN 55120 ~~~ Ess er & Co Toll-Free Nationwide: 1-800-328-0205 ~ t' Local Fax: 612-452-4298 ~ .. • Toll-Free Fax:1-800-548-9304 Inquires: 612-452-7180 Machine Shop VOLUME 18, NUMBER 12 DECEMBER 1994 Practices HOROLOGICAL 15

AWi Building Project Report Official Publication of the American Watchmak:ers-Clockmak:ers Institute 29 Joe Cerullo 2 President's Message Henry B. Fried 4 Questions & Answers The 1995 Fred S. Burckhardt 8 Rock Quarry Lathe Program Henry B. Fried 12 Waterproof & Water-Resistant Watches 36 Part 14, Dry Methods of Testing Water-Protected Watches

Fred S. Burckhardt 16 Management Museum I>onatiom Part 8 42 David Christianson 18 The Novice Watchmaker More on the Link Band Developing Special Marvin E. Whitney 22 Book Review The Time Museum Catalogue of Chronometers Watchmaking Ski& Joe Crooks 24 Bench Tips 47

J.M. Huckabee 26 As a Clockmaker Turns Introduction to the Lathe Steady Rest, Part 1 Seeking Candidaie, Archie B. Perkins 30 Technically Watches 56 Antique Watch Restoration, Part CVIII

Marshall F. Richmond 34 Pickle Barrel Course in Jewelry Repair, Part 2 Da~ for Historic

Greg Hostetter 51 Affiliate Chapters Column AWi Meeting Those Who Show Up 56 DEPARTMENTS HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSNO 145-9546) is published monthly and copy­ Ask Huck 10 righted by the American Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincin­ Members' Mailbag 44 nati, Ohio 45211, for $45.00 per year ($4.50 per copy) in the United States and Bulletin Board 45 $50.00 per year, $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.) Second class postage paid at Education Update 46 Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL News of the Trade 48 TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. AWi Material Search 49 Scholastically Speaking 49 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Association News 50 Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. PHONE: (513) 661-3838, Classified Ads 52 AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording), FAX: (513) 661-3131. Advertisers' Index 56 *Fellows of the Amerian Watchmakers Institute* Robert F. Bishop *Orville R. Hagans Robert A. Nelson James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman *Hamilton E. Pease George Daniels Harold J. Herman Milton C. Stevens Henry B. Fried Gerald G. Jaeger Marvin E. Whitney Josephine F. Hagans *Deceased

Executive and Editorial Offices President's Message AWi Central P.O. Box 11011 Recently I attended the Florida State Watchmakers Associa­ 3700 Harrison Avenue tion annual convention. In the beginning, it seemed like any normal Cincinnati, OH 45211 state convention. I've attended many over the past few years, and Telephone: (513) 661-3838 Fax: (513) 661-3131 I'm apt to attend many more in the future. The convention followed AWi Technical Hotline: (513) 661-4636 the normal format of registration and a board meeting on Friday evening. Milton C. Stevens: Editor Saturday began with continued registration and several lec­ Julie Westing Whaley: Associate Editor Diane M. De Villez: Art & Production Director tures, including the first of three that I was to give during the next two days. Donna Baas: Advertising Manager At noon on Saturday, during the luncheon, the annual meeting of FSWA was held This meeting is known as the General Assembly. I decided that I really did not need to be there, so I Sharon McManus: Circulation Manager Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager went to the pool to collect a little of that beautiful Florida sunshine. Mary Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator After about an hour of swimming, I decided to show my face at the meeting to see what was happening. I walked into a situation I was not prepared for. The General Assembly was Technical Editors Robert F. Bishop J.M. Huckabee supposed to end at approximately 1:30 to give time for the next technical seminar scheduled for James H. Broughton John P. Kenyon 2:00. Instead, I found myself sitting in on a very zesty and heated discussion. The discussion Fred S. Burckhardt John A Nagle was on a proposed plan by the board to hire an outside management group to do the work of the David A. Christianson Archie B. Perkins Charles Cleves Robert D. Porter FSWAboard. Joe Crooks Marshall R. Richmond I realized at this point that this was not your average convention meeting. Instead, I watched Wes Door Marvin E. Whitney a group of people who were colleagues and friends square off on different sides of this impor­ Henry B. Fried tant issue. The tension was so high you could have cut it with a dull knife. I decided to get AWi Officers involved and listen to both sides. Within a few minutes, it became clear what was happening, Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: President and thus the reason for this article. M. R. Carpenter, CMC, CMEW: First Vice President This was not an unusual convention, nor was this an unusual problem facing the members Henry Frystak, CMW: Second Vice President Fred S. Burckhardt: Secretary oftheFSWA. Marvin E. Whitney: CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer FSWA was faced with a common problem of declining membership, and a decline in the members they did have to volunteer for the work necessary to keep the organization viable. As AWi Directors Robert F. Bishop, CMEW, PAWi we all know, Florida is not alone with these problems. Where they became unique was in the James H. Broughton, CMEW, PAWi board's decision to pay an outside management company by contract to handle the work load. Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW The estimated cost of this for the first year was approximately $6,000. FSWA is a state group Wes Door, CMW Ronald Iverson, CMC with a membership of 191 paid members who are divided among five guilds. It seems the Gerald G. Jaeger, 'CMW, CMEW, FAWI problem is getting new people to join and getting their older members to volunteer their time to John A. Nagle handle the work load. Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CMEW, FAWI Robert D. Porter, CMW This is a problem I believe every state chapter can sympathize with; however, I don't think Marshall F. Richmond, CMW that any state chapter of similar size can justify or afford to spend that kind of money on an annual basis and still be able to supply their members with the services and education they Greg Hostetter, CC: Affiliate Chapter Director expect. Charles F. McKinney: Research & Education Council Director By the end of this General Assembly, which lasted almost four hours, the decision was Wes Door, CMW: Immediate Past President made to forget the outside management company. The conversation seemed to shift back to getting the membership more actively involved in their organization. It was realized by all that Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Director James Lubic: Associate Executive Director this organization, like many others, is based on volunteers, service and hard work. David LaFleche: Administrative Director I'm pleased to report that by the end of the convention these long-time friends were back Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, PAWi: Technical Director enjoying themselves again. I believe everyone left the convention with renewed spirit for Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited with­ their cause and purpose. I know I did! out written permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute. Copyright © 1994 by the American Watchmakers­ ON THE FRONT: This Season's Greetings photo by F. Sie . Armstrong Roberts Clockmakers Institute. expresses special Season's Greetings to you from all of us at AWI Central. 2 Horological Times/December 1994 The 1722 Madison Avenue Wm. S. McCaw Company Tel 419/243-3720 Toledo, Ohio 43624 Fax 419/243-0321 WHOLESALE JEWELRY Since 1913 GENERIC MATERIAL TO FIT: RO LEX

STEMS TO FIT MODELS: 1200 $3.00 ea - $7.50/ 1/4 dz 1210 1530 1560 1565 1570 3035

MAINSPRINGS TO FIT: 1530 $7.50ea - $18.00/ 1/4 dz 2030 2130 3035 3135

CASE TUBES TO FIT: 5.3MM $5.95ea 6.0MM

TUBE GASKETS TO FIT: 5.3MM $6. 00 PER DOZEN 6.0MM

CRYSTALS LIKE SAPPHIRE #206C $39.95ea #246C $49.95ea #295C $49.95ea

CRYSTALS LIKE #7, 12, 104, 107, 108, 114, 116, 117, 118, 121, 124, #129, 135, 145 $ 6.00ea - $15.00/ 1/4dz PREMIUM QUALITY - PRICED RIGHT

CALL TOLL FREE: 1-800-472-0200 OR 1-800-537-0343

Wholesale Watch Matenals • Tools and Findings • Jewelry • Boxes

Horological Times/December 1994 3 Questions & Answers

By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC

Why is it there are so many different numbers and 6. Code W is used exclusively for watches. Q • letters in some battery numbering systems while The above article was written at the request of our others, like the Eveready system, uses but three digits? member Jerry Bieber, who wanted to know a little more D. Mackie, Lubbock, Texas about watch cell numbering systems. It was written with technical advice from our member and advertiser, Werner Recently the Massachusetts newsletter published Eckstein. A. this very complete article on the subject. I am enclosing photos of two clocks I recently pur­ Know that Battery Numbers Mean Something? Q • chased (see Figures 1 and 2). I would like some By Jack Kurdzionak information. I was told the clocks are from Italy. The one The Japanese Battery Manufacturers Association is with angles on the front has some kind of markings which promoting their numbering system which appears on bat­ are marked on the back of the photo. The one with the teries they produce. Their cell numbering system is very elephant has nothing except the number 28. Also, I would rational in that in addition to the size of the cell, it gives like to know how much they are worth. its chemical composition, anode material, and use. Unfor­ Prakash Patel, Pasadena, California tunately, our USA system promoted by Eveready does not give any information as to the size or composition of the watch cell. As an example, let's examine the cell we commonly call a 377. The Japanese system calls this same cell a SR626SW. At first glance, the American system seems simpler because there are fewer digits in the number. But look again at the Japanese number, because it tells you a lot of information that no other cell numbering system can. Figure 1. 1. S-Anode material is silver oxide. 2. R-Shape is round. 3. 6-outer diameter is between 6.0mm and 6.9mm. 4. 26-Height is 2.6mm. 5. S-Type of electrolytic solution. 6. W-Use of cell (W=watches). Notes to above lines. 1. Type of anode material: S = silver oxide; T = silver peroxide; R = carbon fluoride lithium cell; CR = manga­ nese dioxide lithium cell; M = mercury. 2. Shape = R for round. 3. Outer diameter in millimeters. 4. Thickness in . lmm units. 5. Types of electrolytic solution. S =sodium hydrox­ ide (NaOH) for light loads (small current flow) in analog and digital watches with no lights or alarms or music. If no code is used, the electrolyte is potassium hydroxide used for heavy loads (large flow of current) for watches with alarms, light bulbs, or music. Figure 2.

4 Horological Times/December 1994 Swiss ETA Ouartz with 8-year Battery

DURA 8 M a a r d The amazing DURA 8. It runs 8 years on one lithium cell. Its Swiss ETA movement is housed in an all stainless steel case, water resistant to 500 feet. But what really makes it amazing is the price. Under $100 keystone.

@ 8-Year Battery Life

!liil Swiss ETA 7 Jewel Movement

·!liil Water-Resistant to 500 Feet

!liil All Stainless Steel Case

!liil Screw-Down Crown The amazing DURA 8. le s a lot of watch for the money.

Model JB-W15 Model JB-W16 Brushed Stainless Steel Case, with choice of following bezel Black-Plated Stainless Steel Case, with choice of colors: following bezel colors: JB-W15/1 Steel JB-W15/2 Black JB-W15/3 Red JB-W16/2 Black JB-W16/3 Red With black leather/nylon strap ... $ 87.50Key. With black leather/nylon strap ... $ 89.50 Key. With Stainless Steel band, extra strong With black-plated stainless steel band ... $ 99.50 Key. construction, tri-fold buckle w/safety latch ... $ 95.00 Key. Note: Damage to the black-plating will expose the steel underneath. For rough usage the leather strap is recommended.

Jules Borel & Company 1110 Grand Avenue - Kansas City, MO 64106 - (800) 77 6-6858

Horological Times/December 1994 5 I have examined the photos of your clocks. While makers. The dial is signed "Hodgeson Ke- & Co. Bos­ A • you did not include ones of their movements, I ton." The customer believes it has been in the family since can almost be certain that these are quartz movements. the late 1800s. The movement has twelve jewels, three The clock movements have centered seconds hands that I adjustments, and is also signed Valme-Swiss. Any infor­ must assume jump full seconds. The dials have no wind­ mation about the maker or seller, dates, etc. would be ap­ ing holes, and thus they must be modem quartz move­ preciated. ments. Leo A. Jaroslaw, Acton, Massachusetts The cases appear to be modem castings ofltalian-made cases and dials. The metal from which these were cast I I found no information among my many references think are "pot" metal and of modest quality and thus com­ A. so, as a last resort, I sent your request to Kathy parative value. Pritchard who is on the latter third of a three-volume list- As for appraisals, AWI does not render this service, ing of all Swiss makers. although I occasionally do so when a contribution sug­ Figures 5 and 6 show what she came up with, which I gested by me is made to the AWI Library, Education and think is about good enough. It explains everything and, of Museum fund. In your case, I would advise you to save course, as expected, no parts for this are available. I think your money as these clocks are of modest value. she did (as always) a remarkable job of hunting this down. I hope it helps. D Enclosed are photos of a miniature clock by Q • Valme-Swiss (see Figures 3 and 4). I can't find MEROZ, A., &. CIE, G1nb1e the name in any of the four books I have which list clock- Other company names: L, VALLOT&. MEROZ 81'11.ndandmodcl nanics: YtJJ:::1.E History: In 1908 L VALLOT &. MEROZ registered their name for making jewelry, horology, gold work, small clocks, art bronze, and medals They used the brand name .Y!!!ll1 CYlllot/mfroz). In 1911 the registration was tr1.nsferrcd to A MEROZ & CtE with 1 restriction on its usi: In 1913 the registn.tion was renewed for horology, small i;l~ks, and simile.r articles willr1he exception of po;kd wiudtcsand~bywateh~ ht 19 14 A MEROZ & CIE ~ iu n&nio for wr.dld., watch~ al!ld kl.a- VALlVIE PENDULETTE DE LUKE ET DE VO'IAGE A. MEROZ & Co.

Figure 3.

1915 1d Figure 5.

Jn 1913 A. MEROZ & CIE received Swiss patent No. 64274 for a mounting for a watch movement. In 1914 A. MEROZ & CIE received Swiss patents No. 67453 for a horological piece and Nos 71097 and 72137 (69521) for pieces of jewelry. In 1915 they received Swiss patent No. 71946 for a case for a stem-wound watch, In 1915 the above ad appeared. It offered ValmC de luxe table and travel clocks, widest choice, new models, with 8-day lever movements; quarter and minute repeaters and grande sonnerie were also available. The following year a completely different ad appeared -- for precision compasses, military models with radium, for airplanes and marine use (see below). The listing for the company that year and the year before offered small clocks and said "the factory does not .J!!aki; watches." ~ --:; - - A. MEROZ & C9 14, Rue Kleberg, GENEVE

TELEPHONE 1s oa Tlleor.: VILME GEN!vf BOUSSOLES DE PRECISION MODltLES MILITAIRES AU RADIUM Ai£R09

1916 ad There were no further ads or listings for the company. Figure 4. Figure 6. 6 Horological Times/December 1994

Rock Quarry et tu

By Fred S. Burck:hardt

t's my favorite time of year once again. All of us felt that maybe it wasn't a good time to pull my sur­ I are getting ready for the Yuletide rush, which prise, as the first one rolled the sheet into a little means sleepless nights and long, rush-around days. ball and threw it at me, the second tore his into little I'll never forget the first Christmas season I spent pieces, and the third held his to his torch and threw in this business. I was working in a shop in down­ it on the floor to burn. This caused me to reconsider town Philadelphia, on the seventeenth floor of a trying to bring a small amount of Yuletide spirit into building across the street from John Wanamakers. the lives of my coworkers. There were about fifteen of us working in the Lunchtime came and everyone sat in his own shop and, as well as I can remember, we were a little spot and ate his bologna sandwich. Things were friendly group. On second thought, maybe we were very quiet, so to liven up the place, I suggested we not exactly friendly, but we were a group. pass out Christmas presents. For some reason, the We had been working long hours, and you could rest didn't seem to go for this. It took almost an hour sense the animosity that was building among the for me to untie my hands and remove the tape from troops. This was something that I had never experi­ my mouth. enced before, as I was a young lad, pure of heart. On Later on in the afternoon, I needed some mate­ Christmas Eve morning, I arrived a little early and rial, so I went into the office to see Mrs. Glannrung greeted the others as they came to work. I figured a who took care of the material department. She was cheerful greeting would put everyone in a happy an elderly woman, about eighty-five, who was al­ frame of mind. All I received in return were some ways very cheerful and greeted everybody with a very strong adjectives which I'm afraid can't be re­ smile. When she saw me, she asked, "What do you peated in this column. want?" I figured she was just tired, so to make her As the morning wore on, things started to settle feel more jolly, I said, "Merry Christmas, Mrs. down a little bit. In one hour's time, there were only Glannrung." She turned and slapped me in the face. three fist fights and one near-stabbing. It was at this Later that afternoon, everything that was prom­ time I thought it would be nice to pull a surprise on ised got finished, so the boss said, "Let's quit and my fellow workers. The night before, I had had some celebrate." All of a sudden, things started to liven sheets of Christmas carols printed up, and I started up, especially after everybody had a few blasts. The to pass them around the shop. After the third one, I beer, liquor and wine flowed like Niagara Falls. In no time, Mrs. Glannrung was dancing the jig. I have to admit, she was a spunky little girl. 700 As it was getting close to closing time, the boss State passed out the presents. Just before he passed out, Street he said, 'Merry Christmas everybody." _¥UM_JM/1iV£ After the police came and broke up the party, we Quincy all went down to the Green Lizard club and contin­ IL ued the celebration. It's strange how all those who Gem City College 62301 showed such hostility just a few hours before were now great friends once again. It just shows how the Where Time Can Equal Money Yuletide spirit works in mysterious ways. • Watchmaking • Jewelry (217) I still don't think we should have locked up Mrs. •Engraving • Jewelry Store 222- Glannrung in the safe!!! 0 • Clock Repair Management 0391

8 Horological Times/December 1994 From all of us at TWIN CITY SUPPLY

Foredom® ... The Industry Standard for Quality Flex-Shafts •••••• ··s· AVE .\ * TWINCITY * . ' . SPECIAL PURCHASE! i $74.00·.·· •• • • • • • • • 1/10 HP Foredom Flex-Shaft Operates at speeds up to 18,000 RPM.

INCLUDES: • #30 Jacobs Handpiece • ECT-1 Electronic Foot Control • Wall Bracket list $224.00 M03450T Flex Shaft Special Only$149.95

i[i~ TWIN CITY SUPPLY ~1 6150 Wayzata Blvd., Minneapolis, MN 55416-1239 Offer good while ~ (612) 545-2725 supplies last. 1 T w I N c 0 USA: 800-328-6009 FAX: 800-328-6001

Horological Times/December 1994 9 Ask Huck

Clnckmaldng Bits About... Pivot Broaches The Clockmaker and His Pliers

By J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FBHI

Question: What type and size of pivot broaches are Five-sided broaches can be resharpened with a most commonly needed? fair degree of success. Scrape the flat broach with the edge of a carbide cutting tool. A round broach Answer: I can only answer this in terms of what I may be touched up by pulling it through a folded use most. I specialize in mid-range sizes of clocks. piece of suitable abrasive paper. These are from travle to grandfather size. I've used many types of broaches, but prefer the Question: Looking through a tool catalog, I saw at knurled handle ones best. They are more time-effi­ least fifty types of pliers. How many does the cient than those with detachable handles. clockmaker need? The size used most in this shop ranges from about Imm to 3mm, measured on the large end. This takes Answer: Really not very many. A plier is not in­ care of essentially all of the pivots except those in tended to be a universal fit-all wrench. Let's explore the winding mechanism. the subject. The five-sided, tapered broach is primarily a You will need a long nose, side cutter, small repairman's tool where hand-fitting is necessary. It duckbill, round nose, and possibly a couple more. has less function in manufacturing of interchange­ Once a workman learns to work with spinners, open, able parts. However, this is one of the most impor­ and box end wrenches, most of his plier work will tant tools we clockmakers use! go away. This will mean his work does not deface The round broach, in companion size, is used to the clock parts, and his productivity certainly will finish and work-harden the pivot hole surfaces. Un­ increase. less used with care, the cutting broach may not pro­ A plier should "fit your hand." My hands are duce a smooth cut. small, and I prefer smaller pliers. They should be Another use of the round broach is as a measur­ comfortable. I do not like a plier with self-opening ing tool: Slip the broach into a hole, and measure its jaws; that is, with a spring in the handles. Pliers are diameter at point of contact. This is a good method easier to pick up and get into action from the closed of measurement when the hole is too small to ac­ position. Neither do I like soft handles, because they commodate an alternate technique. moderate the feel of your work. In my tenure in IBM's field service organization, we used custom-made, highly polished, chrome­ ---HERMLE MOVEMENTS-­ plated tools. They looked good to the bystander, but they were so slick that you could hardly hold them. from It takes an extra skill to work with polished tools! ~ufbrfunrfq ©lurks, J'nt. I suggest you buy your pliers "in person" so that 1715 Pearlvlew • Muscatine, IA 52761 they will be sized to your hand. Buy the types you Phone & FAX: (800) 258-5418 need and that feel good. After all, you will use them Technical Info: (319) 263-6759 a few hundred thousand times over the years. Largest selection in US - over 60 different models. D Guaranteed lowest prices. Same day shipping, two year warranty. Most models bronze bushed, milled ratchets. If you have any questions, please write: Factory fresh stock. I can custom match 21 different pendulum lengths. "Ask Huck", c/o Horological Times, Technical help from a practicing clockmaker - Life Member P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 of AWi. SASE free price list and Info.

10 Horological1 Times/December1994 And why I use it ... By J.D. Olson When nineteen hundred and forty-nine was fading away, and we were stepping into the second half of the twentieth century, I was living on the San Carlos Indian Reservation with my four brothers, a brand new baby sister, and my missionary parents. For the Christmas that had just passed, a produce wholesaler had donated cartons full of apples and wooden crates full of oranges. The five little pale-faces of the Olson household, now living on Indian land, would each help to wrap one apple, one orange, a candy bar, and some popcorn for each of the little Apaches in the mission. As each of the orange crates was emptied, it was stacked out behind the church. I can still remember the wonderful aroma of the oranges as we removed them from their crates, but I especially remember how the aroma stayed with the wooden crates after the oranges had been removed. I can also remember that when summer would come to the Arizona desert, the Olson boys would be out of school. With no school to interfere with our creative genius, we would head for the pile of orange crates we knew would still be out behind the church. The wood that had been rubbed by the oranges had absorbed some of the oranges' oil, and was still in good condition. We would use this wood to make our toys. Some dam nice toys, I might add. Since those orange crate days, I have sold millions of dollars worth of clocks. There is noth­ ing nicer than a really fine clock mechanism, but I realize it has been the beautiful finish on their high quality cases that usually moved a family to purchase one of my special timepieces. It was my childhood memory of wooden crates rubbed with oranges, and my desire to care for the really fine clocks that I have offered for sale, that led to the development ofWhat-i-use. It is designed to penetrate into the wood, replacing the oils that time has removed from your fine furniture. It is also blended to have a wonderful orange fragrance that makes it a pleasure to use. It has no silicone or solvents, and has a natural cleaner built right in. It leaves a beautiful finish, and it's not expensive. But best of all, it's Ofliau·U

Check with your favorite 2 - 8oz. flip cap bottles Clock Shop, and if they don't have for $8.98 their What-i-use yet, order a couple of Includes UPS shipping anywhere bottles directly from the factory. in the USA. VISA/MC TOLL FREE: 1-800-887-3445

~·U

Horological Times/December 1994 11 Waterproof & Water-Resistant Watches Part 14, Dry Methods of Testing Water-protected Watches

By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC

n 1966, a device was marketed by E.J. Mulligan of the compression in the container distributes itself into a space I Merlin Apparatus Co., Syracuse, NY. This testing device inside the watch. was the first to keep the watch absolutely dry throughout the As the compressed air in the container slowly leaks into test, eliminating the risk of water damage present with the the watch, a gradual loss in pressure registers on the pressure heretofore conventional tests. gauge. The Merlin apparatus is shown in Figures 76 and 77. The basic operation in Mr. Mulligan's system involved The series of six volumetric blocks shown are designed to fill placing the watch or watchcase in a small, crowded container up space inside the container, thus keeping available air space where the volume of air under pressure is kept small. A small to a minimum. loss of air into the watchcase from the tank is comparatively While this basic technique shows a tiny leak by a gradual large in such a small area. The corresponding air pressure pressure drop, it does not show a large leak. When a large differential can be observed easily. leak is present, the air pumped into the container enters the For example, suppose we place a watch with a tiny leak watch immediately, too fast to observe on the gauge. No drop into a tank barely large enough to accommodate it. When we in pressure is indicated. To overcome this problem, the Mer­ try to pump air into this container, it won't leak much air lin device cleverly incorporates a comparator tank with a fixed because there isn't much empty space around the watch. The volume. The comparator tank is connected to the testing tank air we pump into this space is under pressure, let's say 30 by a hose and valve. p.s.i. The pressure is measured on the pressure gauge. Now, In the first phase of testing, the watch is placed in the since the watch has a small leak, the compressed air enters testing tank with stem and crown off, but included in the tank the watch through this fault. The volume of air now under for volume constancy. Otherwise, the back is loosened so

Figure 76. The Merlin apparatus reduces the free space Figure 77. The chief components of the Merlin apparatus in the container with a series of volumetric blocks. Six of are the testing chamber, comparator tank, pressure gauge these blocks, made of highly machined Lucite, are shown and connecting lines. Valves at several points control air here. flow. 12 Horological Times/December 1994 that air is purposely and readily admitted into the watch. Now the volume of air required to obtain 44 p.s.i. of pres­ The comparator tank valve is closed, and air is pumped into sure will be less than in the first step because the watch is the tank containing the watch. The volume of air permissible is so sealed. The only air space available is the space inside the small that one thrust of the hand pump is more than enough to testing tank minus the space occupied by the sealed watch. increase the pressure in the testing tank to 44 p.s.i. The valve Thus, when the valve to the comparator tank is opened, the leading to the comparator tank is then opened, allowing the com­ volume of the air to be shared between the pressurized test­ pressed air in the testing tank and inside the watch to enter and be ing tank and the comparator tank will be less than before, and shared by the space in the comparator tank. This increase in the the pressure drop will be greater. space occupied by the air causes a drop in pressure to read on the When the comparator tank is opened, if the pressure drop gauge. The pressure drop conforms to "Boyle's Law" which states is the same as in the first test, the watch has a large leak. We that pressure is inversely related to volume. This pressure reading know this is true because an equal drop in pressure indicates is termed the "reference pressure." an equal volume of air in the test tank. Therefore, the watch filled with air instantly when the test tank was pressurized to Testing a Closed Watch 44 p.s.i. in the same way the purposely opened watch filled In the next step, we repeat the preceding testing with one with air in the first test. difference. Now the watch is closed, making it impermeable to air or water. The valves leading to the comparator tank are Greater Pressure Drop closed, and the testing tank is quickly pressurized to 44 p.s.i. If the drop in pressure is greater than the first reading, an One thrust of the hand pump will raise the pressure to the air-tight waterproof watch is indicated. The pressure is al­ desired level. lowed to remain for a few minutes to allow small leaks to At this point, the pressure gauge is observed carefully admit air into the watch. Again, if after a few minutes the for fifteen seconds to see if the pressure is constant or if it pressure remains constant, the watch is waterproof. If the gradually drops, indicating a slow "bleeding" leak. gauge shows a drop in pressure after a few minutes, the case If the pressure appears to be constant, and we observe no is admitting air slowly. leak, we know that either the watch has already filled with The above procedure for comparing the open and closed compressed air because it has an instant "barndoor" leak, or watch pressure drops is termed the Static Pressure Differen­ that, as yet, no measurable amount of air has entered. tial Test. When typical 11 1/2 ligne watches are subjected to

TIME FOR ACCURACY I~ WITSCHI 's waterproof tester '-/ - the ALC 2000 Tested in Europe and found to be the most accurate! • user-friendly fully automatic measurement programs • flexible- tests vacuum and pressure vacuum (up to -0.8 bar) and pressure (up to 10 bar), separately or combined • programmable 10 customer specific test programs • multi-lingual 9 language choices: Eng., Fr., Ger., It., Sp., and the 4 Scandinavian languages • practical automatic locking and release of the pressure chamber • fast automatic or manual from 10 to 300 sec. • future-orientated assured by a 16-bit processor • able to print results WITSCHI printer (Citizen) or printer with serial interface

I~ WITSCHI ELECTRONICS USA Ltd. WITSCHI 34 E. Henry St., P.O. Box 2, Palmyra, NJ 08065-0002 ~WI BA SED FIRM Tel.: 1-800-882-7977 Fax: 1-609-829-2266

Horological Times/December 1994 13 this test, a differential of from 1 1/2 to 2 p.s.i. is common between the two measurements (watchcase open, then closed). When testing a closed watch produces a pressure drop F A less than the reference pressure, close the comparator tank valve and increase the pressure to approximately 44 p.s.i. for a period of five minutes. If no loss occurs, the watch is re­ garded as sealed. This is called the Final Airflow Test. If a typical 11 1/2 ligne watch with a slow leak is tested in this manner and allowed to fill completely with compressed air, a pressure loss of 6 p.s.i. from the original 44 p.s.i. will be noted. The amount of this pressure loss is called the Dynamic Pressure Differential. Figure 78 is a photograph of the chief components of the testing apparatus. Figure 78 diagrams the equipment more Figure 78. A) pressure gauge; B) valve; C) testing tank clearly for reference purposes. A pressure gauge, A, is cali­ where watch is placed; D) valve; E) comparator tank; F) brated to 50 p.s.i., equal to the pressure of water at a depth of gasketed button on comparator tank. about 115 feet. The valve, B, allows air to escape, permitting an adjustment to a lower, exact pressure. A tube leads from this gauge to the testing tank, C, where the watch is placed. Leading off the pipeline of the gauge and the test tank is a valve, D, which admits air from the test tank to the compara­ tor tank, E. A gasketed button, F, is used to release air from the comparator tank without affecting the compression in the testing tank. This also is the button through which small metal balls are added or removed to control the volume of air per­ D mitted in this tank. Figure 79 shows an inside view of the testing tank with the watch under test. In order to keep air space in the test tank to a minimum, three of an assortment of machined Lucite volumetric blocks-A, B and C-are placed in the tank. The sizes selected depend on the size of the watch. The grooves, D, in the sides of the volumetric blocks serve as air vents guarding against the "vacuum effect" which ordinarily pre­ Figure 79. The air space within the testing tank is re­ vents removal of the blocks from the tank. duced by the three volumetric blocks. The grooves, D, on the sides of the blocks serve as air vents. Preparing a Watch for Testing To place the watch in the testing tank, unscrew the tank top and insert the selected group of volumetric blocks. Make sure the tank can be closed securely without jamming the watch. Place the watch in the appropriate top bassine Lucite E block as shown. Screw the cover in place to secure an airtight condition. Use the gasket, E, to produce an airtight condition. A nozzle fitting over the center fitting and gasketed by an 0- B ring holds a tube leading from the gauge and the air pump. Figure 80 is a cross-section of the comparator tank. Its A volume is controlled by adding or removing 75 to 125 metal balls. The diameter of these balls is 0.44mm or 0.04545cc. The one-piece container was sealed by silver brazing. "A" is the thick-walled container; "B" indicates the volumetric balls; "C" is the nozzle leading from the test tank and the pressure Figure 80. The volume of the comparator tank is con­ gauge; "D" points to the 0-ring gaskets; and "E" is a side trolled by the addition or removal of small metal balls. button, similarly gasketed to release the pressure from this The one-piece container is sealed by silver brazing. tank or for the removal or addition of the metal balls. 0

14 Horological Times/December 1994 Machine Shop Practices February 13-17, 1995

By Ron DeCorte, CMW Students attending this class will be instructed in the fol­ lowing areas: Those of you who have an interest in aspiring to the higher • The care and use of the most basic and primitive cutting levels of watchmaking and clockmaking should mark the tool of all: the file. above-mentioned dates on your calendar and plan to attend • Making and using drills and taps. this Project Extend class. • Maintaining and using the various tools required for lathe It may not be obvious to everyone why AWI is offering a and mill operation. Gravers, boring tools, turning tools, class in machine shop practices, so allow me to explain. I am as well as multiple point tools, will be addressed. frequently asked how I acquired the knowledge to fabricate • Hardening and tempering of steels. the many different parts that are required to restore and/or • The basic use of lathes and lathe attachments such as repair the watches that come into my shop. The answer is milling and dividing accessories. that I spent the first twenty years of my career first as a tool • Cutters for fabricating wheels and pinions, as well as the maker and then as an instrument maker. You may ask your­ basic theory of wheels and pinions. self what all of these professions have in common, and the • Measuring tools, techniques and layout. answer is cutting tools. In order to make any mechanical de­ Each student may also have the opportunity to make some vice, you must have a basic understanding of the tools that small tools and/or parts. are required to accomplish the task. As you can see, this course covers a broad scope of skills. Among the first things that any good "fabricator" must Each student will progress through the various stages ofthis course learn are the basic principles of the cutting tools that allow at their own comfort level. An effort will be made to make sure him or her to cut and shape the materials they are working that each student is instructed at his or her own level of experience. with. This course will focus on the use and understanding of Please contact AWI Central for further information and these basic tools, such as files, gravers and drills. course outlines. D

Rate Recorder. Paper and A popular and highly recommended Digital Display for testing fine Unique Quartz watch tester. dry water proof checker. Automatic and Mechanical watches. Checks circuit. Restart feature for accurate. Easy-to-operate. Does not Measures Amplitude, quartz watches that have certain require an expensive air compressor. Cannot Beat, Rate. Automatic. mechanical blockage. Inexpensive. give conflicting results. Vibrograf has four other Trade in your old Timer. A must for every watchmaker's bench. waterproof testers, one for every budget.

THREE PAYMENT PLAN WITH APPROVED CREDIT - LEASING PLANS AVAILABLE For more information, oy: VI BROG RAF U.S.A. CORP. the name of your local 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001 distributor contact: Tel: (516) 437-8700 Fax: (516) 437-8708

Horological Times/December 1994 15 Management Part8

By Fred S. Burckhardt

ming World War II, retailers had the problem of getting more insurance, more space needed and more taxes on your D enough watches to sell-it was a "seller's market." To­ inventory. On the other hand, if the price is right and you feel day, with maximum production and the marketplace flooded you can move the merchandise with a quick turnover, then you with watches, it has become a "buyer's market." may want to give it some consideration. We must keep in mind that we are nothing more than pur­ Buying from one source, such as a wholesaler, has many chasing agents for our communities. This means that we can't advantages, especially for the small businesses. Better prices, stock watches that suit our own tastes and budgets, but must terms of payment, less chance of overstocking, service and de­ carry those of our prospective customers. Our customers know livery, sales aids and cooperation are but a few. what they want, and it is up to us to provide it for them. Buying from one source can also have its disadvantages. A There are three types of customers: line may be discontinued, or the changes in the buying practices 1. Those who want and can afford the best quality regardless of the source could cause problems. Anew controller may change of price. the terms of payment or could decide there would be no terms at all. 2. Those who consider both price and quality, are not espe­ Regardless of where you buy, remember that the manufac­ cially interested in fashion, and want good quality. turers and wholesalers give preference to those who buy steadily 3. Those to whom price alone is the only factor and will buy and in larger quantities, just as you do for your customers. the cheapest merchandise available. Ask for terms, always trying to get the best terms you can. Some stores specialize in one of these areas; others try to Don't be afraid to ask for more time, especially if it is a large capture two or three. If you become too snobbish, your prices order. Getting more time and having to pay more interest is no may not appeal to group two or three. If you carry only lower big deal. Stand your ground and work for the best deal you can get. price watches, you may lose those in the first two categories. As Don't get in the habit of buying from someone just because you can see, it's very important to learn what your customers they may happen to be a "Mr. Nice Guy." Once you get the want. When you can do this and stock the right merchandise, label of "soft touch," every salesman in the world will be after you're on your way to becoming a successful merchandiser. you. Be cold and calculating when you do your buying. Be fair In most stores, the owner, along with the many other func­ with the salesmen, but let them know they have been worked tions he performs, also does the buying. In larger stores, there over before they leave your store. are buyers who specialize in certain areas or types of merchan­ Control your buying on the basis of careful planning. This dise. will enable you to get the most efficient proportions between Buying, like selling, is a game. You must select the right stock and sales. Buy only what you will need for your custom­ merchandise-in the right quality and quantity-at the right time ers-not what's the hottest thing in New York or California. and at the right price. You must decide whether or not the goods Fashions and styles take time to travel around the country. What's you buy are salable. Styles and fashions change. If you happen great in one area may bomb in another. A good salesman, who to stock up on an item that happens to be very popular-great. is really interested in your business, can be a great help in se­ Don't wait to buy the item after it has reached its peak and starts lecting the right stock. Be careful if someone tries to push some­ to lose its popularity. thing you don't feel is right for your customers.

Purchasing Strategies Turnover Buying in assortments or quantities can be risky. Most as­ Once you become more proficient in your buying, you'll sortments have a few "dogs" mixed in that you can get stuck find it will help to increase your tumover. Turnover is the amount with, even though the others may sell rather well. If you have to of work you are getting out of your capital investment. For ex­ take a loss on the dogs, then it wasn't such a good buy. ample, let's say you have $10,000 tied up in your watch inven­ Quantity buying has its good and bad points. There are many tory, and your stock turns once with a net profit of $500 or 5% factors to consider, such as more capital invested, more interest on the investment. Ifyou tum the stock twice, you' 11 make $1000, to be paid if you had to borrow the money, more interest lost if or 10% on your investment. With double the rate of turnover, you had to move the money from an interest bearing account, overhead expenses will also increase, but they won't double

16 Horological Times/December 1994 because you can secure double turnover without doubling the Pricing cost of doing business. It doesn't take twice as many sales- people Buying right is only part of the game. In order to meet the to make twice as many sales. Your rent, heat, lights etc. do not competition effectively, you must price your goods according double. A true discount house uses this principle of turnover, to what you receive for them in order to satisfy the following only they sell at a lower price in order to increase their stock requirements: tum. As an example, we'll say one unit costs $10 and sells for 1. Cost. This is the cost of the item including shipping and $15. At this price, one unit is sold for a net profit of $1 (after other charges; the actual amount it cost to get the item into expenses). By lowering the price to $14.50, three units are sold your place of business. for a profit totaling $1.50. Assuming expenses remain the same, 2. Operating Expenses. This is the cost of doing business­ it means the percentage of profit on investment was 10% in the salaries, rent, taxes, advertising, etc. Each item must have first case and 15% in the second case. included in its price its share of operating expenses. There are many benefits to increased turnover: 3. A Fair Net Profit. This is what you have left over, or hope 1. Smaller capital invested in proportion to the amount of busi- to have left over, after everything else is paid. If you have ness. gone through the year having gotten nothing more from the 2. Smaller interest charges on your loans. business than your regular salary, then you've made zilch 3. Fewer mark-downs (having to reduce price in order to sell). for a net profit. 4. Fresher stock. When these factors are figured and added to the cost, it is 5. Proportionately smaller expenses. called markup. The standard markup is keystone, which means There are ways to increase your turnovers: doubling the cost. This will give a 50% gross profit. Triple key­ l. Have the right merchandise at the right time. stone will give a 66 2/3% gross profit. Another name for gross 2. Eliminate slow sellers. profit is margin-the difference between selling price and cost. 3. Adjust prices to where items move most quickly with a You must decide for yourself what markup you need in reasonable profit. order to take care of overhead plus make a nice profit. 4. Don't jump at quantity discounts. These "bargains" may If you don't buy the right things, ones that will move and end up costing you more than if you paid the regular price. give you the turnover you need, you will end up with a good The longer an item remains in stock, the greater the loss part of your capital tied up in inventory. Merchandise is hard to will be. It may be better to take a small markdown than hold chew. What is even more difficult is going bankrupt. All this them for so long that, regardless of the markdown, it still won't sell. can happen as a result of improper buying. D

CHROnOS is devoted to the connoisseur, collec­ tor, designer and creator of watches and clocks. It will cover watches and clocks from the past and present, and even venture into the future. Our worldwide editorial staff will continuously report on new designs and technical innovations, pro­ files of prominent retailers, vintage and auction reports and highlight beautifully illustrated and described clocks and watches from the outstand­ ing collection of the American Clock & Watch Museum in Bristol, Connecticut, bringing the museum to the reader. You'll be proud to add CH Ranos to your library

Send to: Name 0 Check or money order enclosed D Charge my VISA or MasterCard Address ------CHR~n~s Card No. ______Subscriptions Department City ______State ____ 2403 Champa Street · Denver, CO 80205 Expiration Date Zip Code---- Country 0 $15.00 - 1 year (4 issues) Signarure Foreign subscribers - add $8.00 (Required) Phone ------A portion of subscription money will be donated to the American Clock & Watch Museum. Horological Times/December 1994 17 The Novice Watchmaker

More on the Link Band

By David Christianson, CMW, FBHI

A nother method of holding links together is with pins. J-\some of the pins are smooth (see Figure 8), some are ribbed, some resemble cotter keys (cotter pins-see Figure 9), but all of these types can be removed by using a thin punch in your staking tool. Using a K&D pin vise that fits in your staking tool (#59.530-see figure 10) or a thin tapered staking punch, drive the pin out using a ham­ mer on the end of the pin vise or punch (see Figure 11). Use a punch of the largest diameter that will pass through the hole in the edge of the band. Grasp the end of the pin Figure 8. with your pliers and pull it out, or lever it out as you did with the clip- Figure II. type of link attachment (see Figure

Figure 9.

Figure 12.

Figure JO. Figure 13. 18 Horological Times/December 1994 •tf TlieY love l •

Blended to penetrate into your clock case to replace the oils that time has removed. Formulated for clocks, designed for independent clock shops. • NO SOLVENTS ADDED / NO SILICONE • Use a soft dry cloth for applying direct to your clock case, wipe off excess. (That's all there is to iC and your clock case will be clean and beautiful.) • Dissolves wax, grease, and gum. sold f~:;!st! • 8 oz. bottles only $3.99 retail (keystone). • Factory representatives throughout U.S. & Canada. coast t~onderful Aroma • No minimum reorder, no minimum opening order. of Oranges.

DEALERS OPENING ORDER PROMO: Only $100 +UPS (32/bs) 12 - 4 oz. flip cap bottles ...... resale 2.69 12 - 8 oz. flip cap bottles ...... resale 3.99 12 - 8 oz. pump spray bottles ...... resale 4.69 12 - 16 oz. flip cap bottles ...... resale 5.99 + FREE Point of Sale Display r ORDERS: l Total Resale ...... 208.92 l 1-800-887-3445J ~·uo.e ... 1011 VALLEY RIVER WAY• P.O. BOX 2100 •EUGENE, OREGON 97402 • (503) 344-3445 12). Replacement is just as simple using a hammer to tap it home way across the hole. If there is a lot of contaminate in the hole, it while the band is supported on a bench block (see Figure 13). may look like a screw head, but you'll not be able to get a pur­ As an additional note, sometimes the end of the removable chase with a screwdriver blade. After you've encountered a couple pins are finished off flush with the edge of the link. and then of these, you'll recognize them for what they are. (See Drawing B.) polished so that it is difficult to see them. Rotate the edge under a These are removed by driving out the pin with your staking tool, sharp light to see their outline. using a punch or pusher that fits inside the diameter of the sleeve. While One other pin type link attachment deserves mention here. It tapping on one end of the pin, the pin and the sleeve on the opposite end is a pin that is locked in place with a C-shaped sleeve found on will come out. Be aware of this so you don't tap too hard and lose the either one end or on both ends of the pin (see figure 14 ). These are sleeve (some are very small). To replace, support one side with a stake, showing up especially on some of the higher-grade Japanese and push the other side in with a punch and hammer (see Figure 15). products.(See Drawing A.) A repair note: Replacement pins for rigid link bracelets can While looking at the edge of the link. you'll see what might be made from a piece of soft steel rod. The common paper clip look like a screw head slot, only the slot does not extend all the comes in a variety of diameters. Make a collection of paper clips

---

Figure 14. Drawing A. Horological Times/December 1994 19 and select a diameter that will match the diameter of the missing Many link bands are held together with specialized screws. pin. Sometimes a paper clip may have to be turned down a bit on These screws commonly work themselves out of clients' bands the lathe; it will need to be a snug fit (tapped in lightly with a and are lost. Quick and easy replacements can be made with a hammer). Even a missing "cotter pin" type can be replaced with screw plate and a paper clip. Select a paper clip that will slip an altered paper clip. Turn down much of the length on the lathe through the band up to the threaded hole, but not too small to slip (for a slip fit), leaving one end a snug fit into the link. Use another into the threaded hole (see Figure 16). Either take another screw pin from the band as a sample for diameter. Measurements are out of the band and find the matching thread size in the screw certainly not critical; close, in this case, is good enough. plate (see Figure 17), or screw a piece of sharpened pegwood into

Drawing B. Figure 17.

Figure 15. Figure 18.

Figure 16. Figure 19. 20 Horological Times/December 1994 the threaded hole end of the band and use it to find the appropriate thread size in the screw plate. Cut a thread onto the paper clip end with the screw plate, starting a couple of sizes larger and working down in thread size to the correct size (see Figure 18). Screw the paper clip into the band, mark its length, unscrew it, cut to length, file the end square, and file a screw slot into the end with a screw head file (see Figure 19). Voila-a new screw in less than ten minutes (usually five) (see Figure 20). Don't forget to charge for the ten minutes of your time! As an additional note: don't forget to visit your local watch­ makers guild and NAWCC regional marts-a great place to pick up some of these special little extras such as screw plates. Most of what •ASSORTMENTS• you'll find are metric threads. Many are not standard, but all will be ~ el) close enough for bracelet screws (see Figure 21 ). The threads on the •BANDS• BATTERIES• soft steel of paper clip wire will realign themselves slightly when ~ screwed into the bracelet threaded hole and hold quite securely. Another note: if your client's bracelet screws tend to loosen ~ •BRACELET SIZING KITS• & quickly, or ifthe screws do not seem to tighten well when screwed into the bracelet, a touch of Lock-tite® on the thread end will • BOOKS • CROWNS • secure these screws. That out of the blue tube will require just hand turning to loosen again; that out of the red tube usually re­ ~~~~.CASE OPENERS• quires that part to be heated in order to loosen and remove the screw once the Lock-tite is applied. D • CLEANING SOLUTIONS • LIVESAY'S, INC.

~-·- --- 1f • ~STALS•DISPLAYS• ~ •DIALS & DOTS• ~

•MOVEMENTS •TOOLS •

Figure 20. ~ •REPAIR ENVELOPES•

~ •WATCHPARTS• _ ~;;R:~~

Figure 21 . Horological Times/December 1994 21 Book Review

The Tzme Museum Catalogue of Chronometers, by Anthony G. portant events connected with chronometry, arranged in chrono­ Randall, illustrations by David Penney. 8" x 11 ", hard cover, 366 logical order. pages, 134 color photos, 228 black & white photos, 41 illustra­ During the "Heroic" period, Randall discusses the desire to tions. Published by The Tune Museum, 1992, Rockford, lliinois. find a method of determining longitude so navigators could calcu­ Price: $139 plus shipping and handling. late their position at sea. A mechanical timekeeper, John Harrison, a Yorkshire carpenter's son, found a solution in 1735. Randall also Undoubtedly the Time Museum, Rockford, lliinois, rates as discusses an alternative method-lunars. The "lunar distance" one of the finest museums in the world. When Mr. Seth Atwood, method was sound in theory, but proved to be unsatisfactory since owner and benefactor of the museum, decided to catalogue many the moon's motion at that time was not fully understood. of the museum's 2,000+ pieces, he selected horologists whose The Golden Age was an era in which refinement and research knowledge and contributions to the field of horology were well marked an epoch in the history of chronometry. Since the design known and respected. of the chronometer was pretty '\\'ell established by this time, the Atwood could not have selected a more talented individual author addresses those areas of concern, primarily those dealing than England's Anthony G. Randall. Randall's contributions to with the escapement and balance and problems that later were the field of horology as a writer and master craftsman are well found to affect its performance-the middle temperature error, known, and thus he was the logical choice to catalogue the magnetism, and rust. museum's extensive collection of marine timekeepers, a collec­ Here Randall introduces two great stalwarts in the field of tion consisting of 157 pieces-marine, survey, and pocket chro­ horology, John Arnold and Thomas Earnshaw. These men took nometers; deck watches; and several precision and complicated different approaches in designing a detent type escapement and lever watches. Randall's expertise as a designer and craftsman is compensation balance. Although Arnold's balance and escape­ exemplified by the two chronometer carriage clocks he designed ment was used by a number of makers, in time, Eamshaw's pre­ and made for the museum, one with a constant force escapement, vailed. the other a double axis tourbillon-both beautifully executed. Regarding problems affecting the timekeeping performance, Pieces selected by Atwood through the years were not just Randall discusses the middle temperature error and the two mortal "run-of-the-mill," but ones that were historically significant, un­ enemies of the chronometer-rust and magnetism. Many famous usual in design and construction, or something different. Yet each makers were involved as they struggled to find a means of elimi­ illustrate a particular horological idea as in Randall's two pieces nating the temperature error. As the author points out, however, it and George Daniels' double wheel "independent" escapement. was not until the end of the nineteenth century that a solution was Referring to the book as a catalogue is, in a sense, a misno­ found. While Dr. C.E. Guillaume, the famous French scientist, mer, since Randall's style presents a fascinating technical and his­ was experimenting with nickel-iron alloys, he conceived the idea torical story about each of the pieces in the collection. The book is of the "integral" balance, which practically eliminated this error. beautifully done, and its numerous pictures, both color and black Although a tremendous amount of energy was expended to over­ and white, are of the highest quality, as are the illustrations. The come the effects of rust and magnetism, they remained problem­ explanatory drawings, penned by the world-renowned horological atic since the vast majority of chronometers were fitted with a steel artisan David Penney, not only add class to the book, but greatly hairspring and bi-metallic balance. Randall closes out the era by aid one in understanding the complexity and constructional details relating the gradual decline of the pocket chronometer as it was of parts and assemblies often hidden from view. Being able to being replaced with precision lever watches. follow and visualize the sequence of the operation of some of The third period, entitled 'The Eclipse of the Chronometer," these ingenious devices makes one realize that the makers of these includes the demise of the marine chronometer. Although it re­ beautiful and intriguing instruments were not only fine artisans, mained a monument to generations of superb craftsmen, and con­ but had exceptional mental and creative power of thought to de­ tributed to geographical and astronomical exploration, national sign and construct such mechanisms. defense and commercial expansion, the economics of the era and The author has divided the work into three parts. The first part other technology led to its death. Causes the author puts forth for chronicles the historical and technical developments in chronom­ its decline include the wrist chronometer, alternate navigational etry. Here Randall has chosen three eras or time frames to set forth systems, and the rise of quartz technology. However, it was not an the main events, inventions, and discoveries that led to finding a era of all gloom. As the author relates, one of the finest hours in the method of determining longitude at sea by the means of a time­ annals of chronometry-what he calls the "Hamilton Phenom­ keeper. They are The "Heroic" Period (1500-1800), The Golden enon"-was when the Hamilton Watch Company designed and Age of Chronometry (1800-1900), and The Eclipse of the Chro­ mass produced their famous marine chronometer during World nometer (1900-1989). In each era, Randall has addressed certain War II. This was an instrument whose performance-time-wise events relevant to the particular period, and has also included a and during some of the greatest naval battles ever fought--ex­ very complete and informative listing of famous names and im- ceeded all expectations.

22 Horological Times/December 1994 Book Review

Thus, through these three periods, Randall has done an excel­ the mechanism. lent job in presenting the story of the marine chronometer, one of The final part, entitled "Supporting Material," includes an the most interesting in the history of horology. excellent glossary, bibliography, concordance and index. The glos­ The second part is the focal point ofthe work-the 157 pieces sary is unique in that many of the parts or units being defined are of the Time Museum collection. Here the reader is treated to some accentuated by being printed in yellow. The bibliography is as of the most interesting and historical pieces that not too many of us complete as any on the subject of chronometry may be found any­ have had the opportunity to view. The beautiful and explicit pho­ where. Another valuable addition is the very fine index. tographs and illustrations bring real life to these pieces, so much so As with any publication-particularly technical ones-"ty­ that one feels as though he is examining them while holding them pos," errors, etc., crop up. This book is no exception. Thus, an in his own hands. errata sheet lists those that could provide incorrect information As one leafs through the pages, one finds that it is more than and/or cause concern to the readers. However, in no way does this a catalogue, since each piece comes alive with its own story. Randall take anything away from this splendid book. introduces each piece by providing a historical and/or biographi­ As one reads the book, views and studies the beautiful pic­ cal sketch of the piece and its maker. The information presented tures and illustrations, it soon becomes apparent that a world of here is exciting and most interesting to anyone interested in chro­ historical and technical information has been provided by the au­ nometry, and particularly to many of us here in the states, since thor. Gracing the colorful glossy covers are several beautiful color much ofthe information has not been readily available before now. photographs of pieces in the collection. One in particular is a full­ The author presents a very detailed and analytical description size model of John Harrison's first marine timekeeper, H-1, made of each piece, such as the inscription on the dial, type of box and by Len Salzer for the Time Museum. bowl, dial and hands, movement construction, type of escapement, The author and museum have certainly demonstrated their balance and hairspring, jeweling, etc. In many instances, illustra­ commitmentto quality, and it remains only to say that this is "must'' tions by David Penney are shown, thus providing the reader with reading for anyone interested in the science of chronometry. And a much clearer understanding of the action and/or function of a no library is complete unless this book graces its shelves. particular part, device or assembly that has been incorporated into Marvin E. Whitney

$99.11 a -... -.... • ...._. e o • • Regular Mineral Glass F=~EEEE! I XTL-200Pc Assortment $23.98 VALUE In clear plastic box contain 1each from -...... n..,,. I-- Cr ...-'lllllmz 14.0mm TO 33.9mm IN One Graduation With either assortment $69.11 HQ-101 Domed Mineral Glass ...... I 120pcs of Yellow Quartz Watch XTL-31 Pc Assortment ~lf hand : 50Hour Hand, 50 Minute \ &20 S.S. In clear plastic box contain 1 each from '\ In 5 MOST important openings 17.0mm TO 32.0mm In 5 Graduation. * Ctf1tom ~B_A * NWT: 1-800-536-7632 HOLIDAY GREETINGS FAX :1-800-536-7631

Horological Times/December 1994 23 Bench Tips

By Joe Crooks

This bench tip comes from Stephen Sheldahl, Aurora, Colorado. Steve's tip is as follows. 451-050 Push Nuts for Chain Wheels "Hermle is currently making chain/weight grandfa­ ther clock movements with the chain wheel assemblies held together with push nuts. These are thin washers that are pressed on the arbor and cannot easily be removed and, if removed, are destroyed for reuse. I recently en­ countered a Howard Miller grandfather clock using a 45 l- 050H movement with the chime chain wheel completely ()b"ti! seized. Howard Miller confirmed this was not the first such fuS~ Yl~) on c.\i\a)n case, and sent a replacement chain wheel assembly gratis. w)ee.) However, this did not fully satisfy me, so I disassembled the other chain wheels, too, and found rough arbors and plenty of brass filings and chips between the arbor and ratchet wheel. I doubt that any cleaning would completely remove these chips and, even if it did, the rough arbor may still grind away at the interior of the wheel. There­ fore, I will always disassemble and smooth the arbors of these chain wheel assemblies whenever I see them. The problem is how to reassemble them easily and in a cost­ effective manner. I could not locate replacement push nuts At the time, I thought someone at the factory failed to for this movement in the horological trade. So I called oil them when they were assembled. Now I think the en­ around and found a substitute in the automotive trade. gineer who used push nuts to secure the assembly was the "To remove the original push nut, file the four fingers one who goofed. with the smooth edge of a file toward the arbor-enough The inside of a push nut has four sharp edges and they to pull the old nut off. I recommend filing the arbor smooth are bound to shave off some metal and push it down the and cleaning thoroughly before reassembling. The move­ arbor to the chain wheel assembly when the push nut is ment in question has a 5mm arbor. The replacement push installed. This metal, then, works like a grinding compound nut is Au-ve-co Products part #12122 (11mm outside di­ when oiled; that is unless these wheels were thoroughly ameter push nut designed for a 5mm shaft). Push this in cleaned ultrasonically after the push nuts were pressed on place with a hollow cylinder whose inside diameter is about the chain wheels and then oiled. I don't think the factory 9mm to IOmm. Drive the nut down the arbor until the is doing that. assembly is snug. Like you, I didn't have any push nuts to replace the "These push nuts sell for $3.59 for a box of one hun­ ones I destroyed to disassemble the chain wheels and re­ dred at an Au-ve-co distributor. Call Au-ve-co at (800) pair them. I did have a new assortment of 300 "E" clips, 354-9816 to find the distributor closest to you." so that is what I used. I chucked the arbor in the lathe and Steve, have you wondered where all that trash you used a #8 jeweler's saw blade to cut the correct width slot found in the chain drive wheels came from? I also over­ for a 3/16" E clip to snugly snap onto the arbor and secure hauled a 451-050 Hermle weight clock and had to dis­ the chain assembly. mantle the chain wheels to free them of trash and gall, and The slot for the E clip was about 0.75mm deep, so the to polish the scored arbors. 5mm arbor is still strong enough to bend a pivot before 24 Horological Times/December 1994 the arbor would bend at the E clip slot. Then I polished ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• the arbors, cleaned them and the wheel assembly, and greased the arbors with "Slick 50" white grease where the : CUCKOO MATERIAL! : ratchet wheel assembly would go. I reassembled the chain • TRIANGULAR • : BELLOW TOPS : wheels and snapped in the E clips to secure them. These • Remember the old style triangular • wheels will tum freely fifty years from now. • shaP.ed bellow tops? Well they are • • available again AND even with • I bought the E clip assortment to replace the ones I • LEATHER! Excellent for the e lose when disassembling modem clocks. Don't them little • restoration of the older model • • cuckoo clocks. They are the actual original sizes and • suckers fly when removing them from a movement? • shapes. 2 sizes available and your choice of the standard • These E clips are well finished and get thicker as the • cloth or old s!Yle leather covers. Sold in pairs only. • • 2 1/4" long, 2 wide tapering to 1" - cloth cover. • diameter is increased. There are three hundred in a nine­ : 085209 ...... •...... $6.50 pair : compartment box: size 1/16" to 118", thirty each size; 3/ • 2 1/4" long, 2" wide tapering to 1• - leather cover. • 16", forty pieces; 3/8", fifty pieces; 112" pieces and 5/8", • 085210 ...... $11.25 pair • • 2 3/8" long, 2 1/8" wide tapering to 1" - cloth cover. • 3/4" and 7/8", twenty pieces each. They are 100% better 085211 ...... $6.50 pair • than the junk assortments I got from a watch/clock mate­ 2 3/8" long, 2 1/8" wide tapering to 1• - leather cover. • 085212 ...... $11.25 pair • rial house. The cost is $7.95 from Harbor Freight-call • toll free (800) 423-2567 or fax (805) 445-4900. The three­ ALSO AVAILABLE COMPLETE • CUCKOO BELLOWS WITH • hundred-piece assortment order number is 0430-3UCA. TRIANGULAR TOPS : The white grease I use is called "Slick 50 Multipur­ 3 sizes available, all with back openings. • Your choice of leather or cloth covers. • pose White TfE Resin Grease." It's non-melting or run­ Sold in pairs only. • ning, and the slickest grease I've ever seen; it stays where 6 1/8" overall length - cloth covers • you put it. It's very good where you have high friction; so • 085213 ...... •...... •..... $21.00 pair • • 6 1/8" overall length - leather covers • good, it passed Ford's wheel bearing test. You can buy : 085214 ...... $25.50 pair ! Slick 50 multipurpose grease at NAPA or other auto parts • 6 1/2" overall length - cloth covers • • 085215 ...... $21.00 pair • suppliers in grease can cylinders. • 6 1/2" overall length - leather covers • D • 085216 ...... $25.50 pair • • 7'' overall length - cloth covers • : 085217 ...... $22.50 pair : • "'f' overall length - leather covers • • 085218 ...... $26.50 pair • CASIO WATCH •:~~~ ~o ·~o · ~~~·~= 0 • PARTS CUCKOO HANDS WITH BUSHINGS ! ASSORTMENT • No Minimum Order Required Wow! 1o popular length cuckoo hands (22mm - 57mm) • complete with brass bushings for Regula movements. Wrth • the average price per pair of $2. 70, you save over one half. • The assortment is only $12.95! ! Kahen Enterprises 083583 ...... $12.95 asst. • Official Casio Distributor CUCKOO NUMERAL • ASSORTMENT • • Handy assortment of 8 different size • + We carry ALL the parts • sets of cuckoo numerals (9mm - • • 28mm). All the sizes you'll ever need! • for ALL Casio Products! : Purchased separately the price would • • be $13.00. Save one half - only $6.50 • • per assortment! • + Prompt, Courteous Service • 085679 ...... $6.50 asst. • • • + We accept MasterCard, Visa, and American Express ; S. 11,{7iJ~1nc. ; : 'Worftl'lllilk 'Distri6utors to !Jlorolofiists ! + Overnight Shipping Available : '~;\ I 4?&" • • 3223 Yanceyville St., P.O. Box 21208 • CALLTODAYTOLLFREE • Greensboro, N.C., 27420,USA • : Phone: (910) 621-1936 : (800) 418-2345 • Fax Number: 1-800-537-4513 • •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• • Horological Times/December 1994 25 As a Clockmaker Turns

Introduction to the Lathe Steady Rest, Part 1

By J.M. Huckabee, CMC, FBHI

Scope ries, a job type will be selected from the most difficult Use of the steady rest will be the subject of three ar­ group, and executed in a simple, fail-proof manner. ticles. The objective is to introduce this very useful tool, and continue with some basic applications. The last ar­ Types of Steady Rest ticle of the series will show an efficient method of replac­ The steady rest is a very important tool, and is used ing a broken clock wheel pivot. with all types of work in all lathe sizes. For that reason, The material will discuss problems of steady rest use, you will rarely find any two that look alike. The two shown and solutions that make the jobs easy. For example, here are the most commonly used in my shop. Each piece repivoting an arbor can be a very difficult job. In this se- has merits along with its own disadvantages. Whether you build or buy will depend on your lathe size and type, job application, and economic factors. Figure 1 illustrates a shop-built tool that has good util­ ity. The flat-work pieces are of 1116" brass. This was de­ signed to hold rod stock in the range of 2mm to 5mm in diameter. The larger screws cover elongated holes that permit a limited height adjustment. Figure 2 shows how the tool is adjusted to work-piece diameter. This tool is strong and easy to set up. Disadvantages are its limited range of work size, and the fact that its two support pieces are not in the same plane. Though it works nicely in most applications, it is at a disadvantage if the work-piece is supported in a bearing. By nature of construction, the tool permits the lathe tool rest to be brought into close relation to the work area (see Figure 3). This tool, as with most steady rests, can be reversed on the lathe bed for work accessibility. Figure 1. A shop-built steady rest has many uses.

Figure 2. The steady rest serves as a support for long work­ Figure 3. The steady rest permits working pieces that oth­ pieces. erwise would be unmanageable. 26 Horological Times/December 1994 A commercially available steady rest is shown in Fig­ ure 4. This will fit acceptably well on all American style watchmaker lathes that have a spindle height of about 50mm. This is the steady rest that will be used in this se­ ries of articles. As with the shop-built rest, this one also has some disadvantages. Observe the off-set base in Figure 5. This will not permit the cutting tool rest to be brought within working range. However, this is not a problem when work­ ing on the opposite side, as in Figure 6. The steady rest can be reversed on the lathe bed in order to offset most problems. Another problem is that the bed key does not fit the lathe very well, a situation that we find in most tools that were not supplied with the lathe. Still another problem, and a more serious one, is that its height is not exactly equal to the spindle height of any of my lathes. This means that the support rods converge Figure 4. Another type of steady rest that is commercially somewhat off center. This is not too serious on work around available. 3mm in diameter or larger. This can be obviated by the use of a soft bearing or a clock bushing fitted on small diameter work.

Problems with the Steady Rest A shaft cannot be operated with three or more bear­ ings without problems: this is what you have when the work-piece is held in a collet-two lathe spindle bearings and the steady rest as the third. This condition demands perfect bearing alignment and work that is-and that is held­ perfectly straight. That condition cannot be met easily! A piece several inches long, as in Figures 5 and 6, can flex enough to render the problem as minor. If the work­ piece is an inch or so long, the problem becomes serious. Should we support a hard pivot in the collet, it is almost certain to break the pivot off. And further, should the pivot slip in the collet, the pivot surface will be damaged. This Figure 5. The tool rest is too far from the work. The steady leads to the conclusion that a pivot should never be held rest can be reversed to solve the problem. in a collet. The steady rest support rods will likely leave wear marks on the work-piece surface. Lubrication helps, but the condition is almost certain if the run time is long and speed is high. This shows the need for some form of bear­ ing to be used to support the work-piece. A simple expe­ dient is support rods with soft tips. The rods shown are brass. On another rod set, I drilled the large ends and in­ serted a piece of 1/8" wood dowel with about 1/4" over­ hang. This permits holding most steel work-pieces at zero clearance without much problem. The wood tips should be well oiled.

Some Basic Steady Rest Jobs Look over Figure 7-this is the escape wheel from a large clock that has a long bit for its seconds hand. Let's imagine we need a true center on the bit tip. Now this is a typical case where the support rods may not converge such Figure 6. The tool rest will work properly from this side of the steady rest. Horological Times/December 1994 27 Figure 7. A pivot can be supported by a bushing held in Figure 8. Grinding a true conical center on an escape the steady rest. wheel bit. that we can support the pivot. The solution in this illustra­ bare minimum. The purpose is to reduce the effect of run­ tion is to place a clock pivot bushing over the pivot. Brooch out at the collet. the size to near-zero clearance and you have a reasonable The set-up in Figure 7 and 8 will not permit a high solution. Through this series of articles, I will use addi­ degree of stress in forming the true center on the pivot tip. tional solutions to the same problem. I obviate that problem by grinding the center rather than The next problem is the collet and where it engages using a turning graver. the arbor: the collet and arbor must each be in perfect truth, A small, cordless, hand-held grinder is a very valu­ and the steady rest in perfect alignment with the lathe able tool to the clockmaker. Make up a disc about 3/4" in spindle bearings. Those conditions frequently cannot be diameter from a piece of abrasive paper in a grit range achieved. For this job, an "escape route" may be accept­ around 400. Run the grinder at its maximum speed with able; the reason being that you only need a minute or so the lathe at about 500 RPM. A second or two touch-down run time, and the speed and work stresses are low. Insert will give a perfect job. Look over the operation in Figure the arbor into the collet only about lmm, and tighten only 8 for the idea. This is a perfect low-stress method to finish lightly. This permits some compliance in the coupling. a pivot tip. Another solution is to wrap a single turn of masking tape around the arbor where it is held. Work of a serious conse­ Forward quence cannot tolerate these methods. The next article in this series will relate methods of Look again at Figure 7. Note the pivot overhang be­ holding a wheel with a pivot broken adjacent to a pinion. yond the support bushing. This was done to improve the This is frequently a serious problem in that there is no view in the photograph; this overhang should be kept to a place for the steady rest to engage the work-piece. D

STELLA WATCH GHC HUNTING CASE CRYSTALS CRYSTALS

A superior WEC crystal with a reverse angle on the ~GHC bottom. Forms a right angle under pressure, wedging the ledge firmly against the bezel and its bottom flat to the Assortments available Thinnest, strongest available, plastic seat of the case, assuring far better waterproofing. Also or made to your specification! crystal for cover case (hunting case). exceptional strength, outstanding clarity and lustre. Sizes: 15-55 in 1/4 sizes 22.2mm · 47.Bmm Equally suitable for conventional and one-piece cases. Ideal for use IF YOU HAVEN'T TRIED US LATELY, NOW IS THE RIGHT TIME FOR A CHANGE! by any crystal lift. Available in 114 sizes OB.4mm-39 Available from your watch material distributor

AMERICAN PERFIT CRYSTAL CORP. 653 ELEVENTH AVE. NEW YORI{, NY 10036 28 Horological Times/December 1994 lA Report to the Members on the AWi Building Project

to eliminate the proposed tower clock for financial rea­ sons. To our good fortune, a lady who wishes to remain anonymous has donated the funds. It is her wish to fi­ nance the project in order to recognize the contributions Henry B. Fried has made to horology. Henry Fried had been her late husband's watchmaking instructor. 4. The official ground breaking was held with a ceremony on September 30, 1994. Attending were: Mayor Rolfes of Harrison, Ohio; AWI directors Marshall Richmond, Chuck McKinney, and President Joseph L. Cerullo; the Architect's model of new A WI structure. entire AWI staff; neighbors, friends and family; school superintendent, Dr. Kay Bowling; and construction offi­ By Charles Cleves, Building Committee Chairman cials from the Neyer Construction Company. Actual grading of the lot began October 20, and progress As the year ends, I want to bring the membership up to is well underway in the actual construction of the building. date on the activities that have taken place relative to the con­ Once under roof, the construction crews will be able to work struction of a new headquarters building. inside-regardless of the weather-toward our targeted Much progress has been made and much work has been completion date of mid-April, 1995. done for the construction of AWI's new headquarters build­ It is our goal to be in the new facility in time to dedicate ing in Harrison, Ohio. The Building Committee and the Trust­ it during our annual meetings, June 22-25, 1995. This will ees of the ELM Trust have met a number of times with the coincide with AWI's thirty-fifth anniversary. A very special AWI staff, architects, contractor and consultants. I am pleased celebration is being planned. We hope you will be able to to report on the following to you: join us. D 1. Financing has been arranged with the bank that will al­ low us to keep all our funds invested in treasury bonds. The bank has provided a line of credit that will allow us to pay the cost of construction from the interest received ~ Complete Suppliers to ~ on our investment. Payments will be made over a ten­ year period, after which our principal will remain intact Watchmakers & Jewelers and the construction debt will be retired. Since 1918 2. Plans have been finalized and a contract has been signed with the Al Neyer Construction firm of Cincinnati, Ohio. The Neyer firm is celebrating its lOOth anniversary this Watch Parts • Watch Bands year. 3. The building will provide 15,350 square feet of space all Eveready & Renata Batteries on one floor. The main components will encompass: • general office space Crystals • Cleaning Solutions • two classrooms and machine shop Tools • Equipment • Supplies • video studio • research and lending library Casting Supplies • reception room • museum • ample storage and parking. The museum will be the focal point of the building. ~'Jllu..~Co. In addition to an attractive horological display located in 535 16th St., Suite 840 the center of the building, a Foucault Pendulum suspended from the dome that covers the museum area is planned. Denver, CO 80202-4243 Another exciting feature will be a tower clock stand­ PHONE & FAX ing in front of the building. We have acquired a Howard TOLL FREE 1-800-332-4158 tower clock movement that President Joe Cerullo has offered to completely restore. At first the committee had Mastercard & Visa Accepted ~

Horological Times/December 1994 29 Technically Watches Antique Watch Restoration, Part CVIII Making Chronometer Roller Tables By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, MBHI ©1994 (All rights reserved by the author)

here are basically two types of impulse roller tables Making an Impulse Roller Table T used for chronometers: the non-jeweled type and the To make an impulse roller table, you would first se­ jeweled type. These are shown in Figure 1. View A shows lect a piece of high carbon water hardening steel rod. The the non-jeweled type that was used for some chronom­ diameter of the rod should be slightly larger than the di­ eters. Although these non-jeweled roller tables work very ameter of the finished roller table. The rod is chucked up well, they will wear and need resurfacing from time to true in the lathe. Next, the rod is turned down so its sur­ time. The flat surface where the escape wheel teeth con­ face is smooth and straight and about .04mm oversized to tact becomes pitted by the escape wheel teeth as they drop allow for finishing the surface. Figure 2 shows how the onto the surface. The acting surface is a flat surface that is edge of the roller table can be finished to have a straight on center with the center of the roller table and is part of a surface. This illustration shows how the grinding and pol­ half-crescent. ishing tools are guided so a straight, square surface is made The second type of impulse roller table is shown in on the edge of the roller table. An adjustable screw is used Figure 1, View B. This is the jeweled type. A crescent is in a holder in the tailstock spindle to guide the grinding formed in the edge of the roller to allow the escape wheel and polishing tools. The screw is held tightly in the holder teeth to pass from one side of the line of center to the by having a split thread and tensioning screw. The screw other side. A slot is sawed in the crescent to hold a ruby or is raised when one corner of the roller table is being bev­ sapphire impulse jewel as shown. The slot is sawed in a eled and polished. The screw is lowered when beveling position to allow the acting face of the impulse jewel to be and polishing the other corner of the roller table. Next, the on center with the center of the roller table. The jewel has hole is drilled in the table. The hole is drilled slightly too better wear qualities than the steel surface on the non-jew­ small so it can be reamed later to fit the balance staff. eled roller table. Making the Crescent in the Table The half-crescent or crescent can be made in the edge of the table with a file, but it is better to mill these shapes with milling cutters. Figure 3 shows how the half-cres­ cent is milled into the edge of the roller table with an es- A 0

B

Figure 1. Figure 2. 30 Horological Times/December 1994 cape wheel cutter. This requires that a milling attachment be used on top of the slide rest to operate the milling cut­ ,~------, ter. The lathe spindle holding the blank table must be locked *ROLEX WATCH MATERIAL* into position when milling the half-crescent. FOR GREAT SERVICE Figure 4 shows a crescent being milled into the edge ON ALL CROWNS, of a roller table. The crescent is milled in the same man­ ner as the half-crescent. The cutter is different, however, SAPPHIRE & PLASTIC as shown in Figure 4. _ CRYSTALS, TUBES, GASKETS, The crescent may be made in the edge of the table MOVEMENT PARTS, ETC. before it is removed from the rod, or the table can be re­ moved from the rod and cemented up for cutting the crescent. CALL: S&G INDUSTRIES TOLL FREE 1-800-942-0047 FAX: 1-800-423-4256

''WE STOCK WHAT WE SELL"

I (~·'.8 [Z] I I WE GIVE QUICK AND EFFICIENT I SERVICE 24 HOURS A DAY! 7 DAYS A WEEK! --4-- NJ: 1-908-469-7200 ~------J

WATCH MATERIAL AND Figure 3. SERVICE • Extensive line of Japanese, Swiss, and American watch materials •Crystal fitting & cutting •Replacement movements for repair and retrofitting I I •Batteries I •Watch repair trade work I I • Accutron service -- Coils available I ALWAYS FAST SERVICE AND --$--- THE LOWEST POSSmLE PRICES 1 I POLLAK WATCH SERVICE, INC. 13910 Cedar Road Cleveland, Ohio 44118 (216) 932-2500 (800) 878-3185 Fax (216) 831-8649 Figure 4. Horologicaf,Times/December 1994 31 Finishing the Crescent The crescent can be finished while the roller table is held in a swing tool as shown in Figure 5. View A shows a non-jeweled roller table being held in the jaws of a swing tool for finishing the flat impulse surface of the table. Note that the height of the centers on the swing tool must be adjusted so the surface being worked on remains flat against the grinding and polishing tool while the surface is being ground and polished. There must not be any swing­ ing back and forth of the tool when it is being used. The surface is ground flat and smooth with an iron grinding slip and oilstone paste, and is further smoothed with a bellmetal slip and diamantine. The final polishing is done B with a boxwood slip and diamantine. Figure 5, View B shows a roller table chucked be­ Figure 5. tween the jaws of the swing tool that has a full crescent. The crescent is ground and polished with round or half­ round grinding and polishing tools. This type of roller table needs a slot made in the crescent for the impulse jewel.

Making the Slot for the Impulse Jewel Figure 6 shows the slot being sawed for the impulse jewel. The edge of the saw is centered with the lathe cen­ I ter so the slot will be cut to allow the acting side of the I impulse jewel to be on a center line running through the I center of the table. The center line should run through the I center of the crescent as shown. The width of the slot for the jewel should allow a close fit of the jewel in the slot. --~-- The depth of the slot should be such that it allows the act­ ing end of the jewel to be even with the outside edge of the table when the other end of the jewel is at the bottom 1 of the slot. Next, the flat surfaces of the roller table are ground so the table is almost to the proper thickness. Then the roller table is hardened and tempered.

Hardening and Tempering the Roller Table To harden a roller table, it can be held on a piece of Figure 6. steel wire looped through its hole. The table is warmed over an alcohol flame, then it is placed in some boric acid powder to produce a uniform coating of the powder on the surface of the table. Next, the roller table is heated to a uniform medium cherry red color and quenched quickly in a container of room-temperature water. The table should be quenched edge first into the water to help prevent warp­ ing. Next, the roller table is checked with a fine file for hardness. If the table is hard, the file will not bite into its surface. If the file should bite into the surface of the table, the hardening process must be repeated by heating the table to a higher temperature. After the table has been hardened, its surface is cleaned with fine emery paper, then it is tempered. A jeweled table is tempered to a purplish blue color. The tempering is done on some clean sand or brass filings in a metal pan. The Figure 7. pan is heated over an alcohol flame. 32 Horological Times/December 1994 To temper a non-jeweled roller table, a brass peg is the flat surfaces are being finished. The ends of the un­ placed in the hole in the roller table. Then the brass peg is locking roller are polished on a tin lap. The roller can be heated until the roller table becomes blue around the hole held in the screw head finishing tool to finish the ends. and pale straw color near the edge of the table. This leaves After the roller has been polished, it is thoroughly cleaned, the impulse surface hard enough to resist wear. and the unlocking jewel is cemented into its slot. Finally, all surfaces of the roller table should be pol­ "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next ished. The flat sides of the table are given a flat polished month. D finish on a tin lap with diamantine. If the table is the type for an impulse jewel, the jewel is installed in the slot in Bibliography the table. These jewels are shellacked into the slot. Daniels, George. Watchmaking. London: Sotheby's Pub­ Making an Unlocking Roller Table lications, 1985, pp. 154-159. The unlocking roller table is made from high carbon steel rod. The rod should be larger in diameter than the Gazeley, W.J. Watch and Clock Making and Repairing. finished table. The rod is chucked up true in the lathe head­ London: D Van Nostrand, 1959, pp. 182, 347-348. stock and is turned down in diameter to make the table. The diameter is left about .Olmm larger than the finished diameter of the table. Then the diameter is ground and polished to the proper size for the table. Next, a center is spotted and a hole is drilled in the end of the rod so the table can be fitted to the balance staff. The hole should be left slightly undersize to allow the table to be fitted to the staff at a later stage of making. The hole should be cham­ fered at both ends at the time the hole is reamed to fit the staff. After this, two flat sides are filed or ground on the rod as shown in Figure 7. These two flat sides should be exactly opposite each other, and sufficiently long to go the full length of the table. The purpose of the flat sides is to have flat surfaces to hold onto when turning the table on the staff to get the proper span between the impulse and unlocking jewels.

Sawing the Slot for the Jewel Figure 8 shows the slot being sawed for the unlocking jewel. The saw should be of such a thickness to allow a close fit of the jewel in the slot. The slot must not be cut so deeply that the table is weakened. The headstock is held Figure 8. in position with an index pin while the slot is being sawed in the table. The saw is held on an arbor chuck in the mill­ ing attachment. Some unlocking rollers have a hole running the length of the roller just back of the roller face for the end of the unlocking jewel to go into instead of a sawed slot. A slot is cut from the face of the roller into the hole to accommo­ date the jewel. This type of arrangement allows for more shellac to hold the jewel in position in the roller table. Aft~r the table has been made, it is hardened and tem­ pered to purplish blue color.

Polishing the Flat Sides of the Roller Table Figure 9 shows how the two flat sides of the roller table are polished. The table is frictioned onto an arbor that has pointed ends. The points fit into female centers in \ the lathe headstock and tailstock. This allows the flat sides to stay flat against the grinding or polishing slips while Figure 9. Horological Times/December 1994 33 Pickle Barrel Course in Jewelry Repair, Part 2 Tools Needed for Basic Jewelry Repair

By Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

uch jewelry repair can be done with a minimum cerning magnification is that the greater the magnification, the M number of tools, and even with the high cost of tools to­ shorter the focal point. So, when choosing the correct opti-visor, day, these tools can be procured with a relatively small invest­ make sure that the focal point allows you enough distance to the ment. Because many people reading these articles may want to work so you can do sawing, filing, and the other work that needs learn to repair and handcraft jewelry as a trade or as a supplemen­ to be done under magnification. tary trade to watchmaking or clockmaking, I will mention all the Soldering and application of heat for various purposes is nec­ basic tools that are necessary. People who are already working as essary for doing jewelry crafting and repair. It is important to watchmakers or clockmakers will have many of the basic tools. have heating equipment of some kind. I have always used torches Keeping the starting tools at a minimum, and adding to them as for jewelry work The soldering machine is used by many jew­ you progress, allows anyone deciding to quit after any lesson (for elry craftsmen, but most of my instruction will be in using the one reason or another) to do so with a minimum investment in torch. For starters, a small acetylene torch outfit using only an tools. MC acetylene tank will do. It is suitable for hard soldering most gold rings. (In the next article, "Sources of Heat and Their Appli­ The Basic Tools cation," torches will be discussed in detail, including fuel and First of all, a place to work is most important, and a jeweler's oxygen tanks, torches, regulators, gauges, hoses and connections. bench, fluorescent light, and a comfortable chair that can be ad­ Making torch setups and connections will be explained, too, as justed for height are needed for you to work comfortably. These will safety precautions such as checking for gas or oxygen leaks.) can be improvised for the first few lessons, but here is the list of small tools needed to get started: Metals and Other Materials Ring mandrel with groove Materials needed to work with can be held to a small invest­ Rawhide hammer ment. You can start working with copper and brass, as these met­ Chasers hammer als work similar to gold and silver as far as soldering, annealing, Brass hammer sawing and filling are concerned. The solder used can be silver Jeweler's saw frame with supply of 2/0 and 4/0 blades solder, which is much less expensive than gold solders. It comes Six-inch half round file in quarter-ounce (troy) sheets, which cost about one-fifth as much Set of small needle files as one DWT or 14k gold solder. Thus you have five times as Six-inch flat file (one edge smooth) much solder to do your practice work with. I have always used Flat end pliers ''Battems" flux; powdered borax mixed with water to make a Chain nose pliers paste will also work as a flux. Either Battems flux or borax can be Parallel pliers ordered from the jewelry material and tool supplier. End cutting pliers Brass wire can be obtained from the material supplier, and Side cutting pliers so can small brass sheets to cut out pieces for making practice Watch bow pliers projects. Most any welding supply house can and will sell single Heavy-duty locking tweezers lengths of brass brazing rod, which comes in two- or three-foot Regular tweezers size of 3-C (inexpensive work tweezers are lengths. One rod each of 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" will be enough okay) material to give you sufficient practice to where you are profi­ Ring clamp. cient enough to start working with karat gold. Even for working For magnification, an opti-visor is excellent because it al­ brass, you will need a pickling solution. Either a 10% solution of lows the use of both eyes, the focal length allows room to work sulfuric acid that's kept heated, or a 20% solution that's used at with saws and files, and you can do torch work or soldering under room temperature, is adequate but, since sulfuric acid is hazard­ magnification. They are available in different strengths of magni­ ous to handle, there is an alternative available. It is called "Sparex," fication and focal points. An observation that I have made con- and it can be purchased in as small a quantity as a ten-ounce can,

34 Horological Times/December 1994 which will make about one quart of solution. Mix only small the cost of a manufactured bench. I realize that not everyone feels amounts for practice work, probably not more than a half pint at that they could make these things, but if you have enough of a a time. Ifkept covered, it will pickle a lot of practice work before mechanical aptitude to do watch and/or jewelry work, you could becoming contaminated. probably make many of your shop furnishings. The jeweler's bench can be purchased from your material To use the polishing equipment, some buffs are necessary. supplier or other sources, but the ones that I find cataloged have Start with a cotton buff 3" in diameter. You will need a buff for little or no drawer space. They do have tapered holes for man­ tripoli and one for rouge, two inside ring buffs (fingers), a bronze drels, and a rectangular hole for a bench filing and sawing pin in wire scratch wheel, a couple of brush (bristle) wheels, a stick of the front edge. The bench height is listed at from 36" to 39". With rouge and a block of tripoli. This will handle all of your practice these heights and an adjustable-height chair, a comfortable work­ needs. ing position can be obtained easily. When doing fine work requiring steady hands, a comfort­ Improvise to Keep Your Costs Down able working position is necessary. A bench light is also impor­ Until you are sure you want to pursue jewelry work seri­ tant, and it is accepted that a fluorescent light is best for general ously, much improvising can be done to keep your investment in work. For studying diamonds, though, an incandescent lamp tools and practice materials small. Heat bench pads can be substi­ shows their brilliance better. tuted for by using fire brick, which can be obtained at a small cost. If you have access to a salvage dealer Gunk yard), small Additional Tools for Completing Work pieces of copper and brass can be picked up for a very small As you progress into the completing phase of repairing jew­ price. For a bench anvil, a small block of scrap steel can be pur­ elry, there are other important tools and equipment you will need. chased for about 1% of the cost of a manufactured bench block. The flex shaft tool is a very versatile tool used for shaping, For starting and experimenting, a regular table and chair can be drilling and finishing, or preparing for polishing. It uses small used. To practice filing, a piece of board about 1" thick and 3" abrasive wheels, burs, and even small polishing discs in places wide can be clamped on the edge with a C-clamp and, by sawing not accessible with the polishing motor. The flex shaft tool is a "V" in the forward edge, it will serve as a filing block. Any desk available with a Jacob's chuck for quick change of accessories. It lamp---either fluorescent or incandescent-will do to start prac­ also has a hand-piece using collets (chucks) for fixed-size shafts, ticing. A small clamp or vise clamped on the edge of the table is and even a hand-piece that creates a hammering vibration for also helpful to hold work while filing. Parallel pliers and a ring riveting or burnishing. The Jacob's chuck will accommodate drills clamp are also helpful to hold work. Parallel pliers are available as small as .8mm, and an auxiliary chuck will accommodate drills with smooth jaws or with a rough surface inside the jaws for a as small as 3/1 OOmm or 1/64". It is excellent for drilling small secure grip. They will hold metals while sawing or filing, but holes because it can be hand-controlled easily. It is the next best they will mar a smooth surface. Copper jaws can be cut out and thing to a small drill press. The speed of this tool is controlled shaped to slip over these rough jaws; some of the holding power with a footrheostat. The older ones with gear reduction for smooth, is lost, but they will not mar smooth metal surfaces. slow speed operations work well; the newer ones have an im­ Anyone taking up jewelry work will soon learn that much proved motor that will operate smoothly at any speed. ingenuity is needed to do this work; combine that with common The polishing motor refers to a polishing outfit that is an sense and logic and most any jewelry job can be achieved. The electric motor, 1/4th to 1/3rd HP, operating at a speed of 3450 word "improvise" has been used several times in this article-it RPM, with tapered spindles on each end. This should be mounted is as important to me today as it was fifty years ago. The term in a dust collector with a blower that creates a vacuum sucking all "master craftsman" is really a myth, because a true craftsman is a dust and metal particles through a filter. The filters, when filled student of the trade as long as he works at it. You learn something and needing replacement, can be sent to a gold refiner to salvage new each day. In doing jewelry work, every job is a new chal­ any gold or silver particles that are deposited in the filter. (Don't lenge. Very little routine and boring work is ever encountered. I ever throw old filters away.) have been working at the watchmaking and jewelry trade for I built my apparatus from a new motor that I bought on sur­ more than fifty years, and I have never put in a long, boring day plus for $5, and the dust collector uses a blower unit from an old (unless I was sick or feeling bad). furnace that also cost $5. With other material used, my complete Any time you have questions, feel free to call on me, and I investment is less than $30. It has worked so well for me over the will try to answer them or find answers for you. last forty years, that I have never felt the need to replace it. By The next article will deal with sources of heat and their appli- keeping on the lookout for low-cost parts and pieces for making cation. D

your own equipment, a shop can be set up for a fraction of what it WATCHMAKER'S/JEWELERS LA THE would cost to use manufactured, sophisticated equipment, and it PRAZI DHlgned for Super PnK:i9ion Work will tum out just as high a quality of work and just as much of it. I even made my own jeweler's bench because I wanted a ra~CATALOG$100(':°""'"'i?fV 800-872~500 larger top and more drawers. The cost of it was a small fraction of BOX 536-HT • HURRICANE, WV • 25526-0536 Horological Times/December 1994 35 The 1995 Lathe Program

Instructor-Roy A. Hovey

Objectives struction. The tools, lathe accessories and parts the The 1995 Lathe Program has been designed with the student makes during these courses are his to keep, following objectives in mind: and their value far outweighs the cost of the material fees. 1. To serve the needs of all watchmakers and cloclanak­ ers holding memberships in the American Watchmak­ Each Block Serves Several Functions ers-Cloclanakers Institute who use lathes and milling Each block of instruction offered in the 1995 Lathe equipment in their work. Program is designed to serve several different functions: 2. To support members preparing to take examinations 1. The watchmaker and clockmaker courses that com­ conducted by the American Watchmakers-Cloclanak­ pose the Skill Development i,athe Program are listed ers Institute that require the use of the lathe. in Table 1 on page 38. These.,. courses are available to 3. To provide all members seeking to develop their skills all AWI members and are designed to provide the ba­ on lathes and rnicrornills with the best instruction avail­ sic turning skills required to use a watchmakers lathe. able. 2. Special Interest/Special Equipment lathe courses that address the use of special accessories and turning tech­ Teaching Concept niques are listed in Table 2 on page 38. These courses Since its establishment in 1991, considerable success are available to all members and are designed to pro­ has been experienced with the teaching concept used in vide the student who has completed the Skill Devel­ the current lathe program. This concept is designed to: opment Lathe Program with additional information • Provide a learning experience that instills confidence about specialized accessories and turning techniques. in the student by the use of a progressive building block 3. Several blocks of instruction lend themselves to be­ concept. The student learns each basic skill in a new ing used as specially tailored lathe courses to support block of instruction using large workpieces. As the other training programs conducted by the American program progresses, the student will continue to work Watchmakers -Cloclanakers Institute. The contents of with smaller and smaller components, developing his these courses will be announced to the participants in skill and confidence as he progresses. brochures published for the program being supported. • The pace of the course is set by the instructor, but the 4. Most blocks of instruction can be specially tailored to student determines how much he can accomplish each support educational programs sponsored by state or­ day. Students are encouraged to learn the fundamen­ ganizations and affiliate chapters. A one-day introduc­ tal teaching points set forth in each lecture, use the tory lathe course is now available for convention at­ specialized equipment provided by the instructor, and tendees with an interest in learning how to use the take unfinished work home rather than hurry to com­ watchmakers lathe. plete it during the course. 5. All blocks of instruction in the 1995 Lathe Program • Each block of instruction is designed to add a new can be presented by the instructor for schools desiring skill, and provide continued reinforcement of those specially tailored classes to support their own pro­ already mastered. grams. Information about the use of the 1995 Lathe • A considerable effort is made to provide students with Program for this purpose can be obtained from AWI opportunities to examine and use several types of spe­ central upon request. cialized equipment so they can gain a full understand­ 6. Courses tailored to support joint educational activi­ ing of its capabilities and limitations before investing ties AWI conducts with other horological organiza­ in it themselves. tions are available and can he presented when appro­ • Every effort has been made to provide the student with priate arrangements have been made through AWI something worthwhile at the end of each block of in- Central.

36 Horological Times/December 1994 Distinctive Characteristics for 1995 membership in November of 1993. Those interested The 1995 Lathe Program has several distinctive char­ in this information are encouraged to refer to the 1993 acteristics: article. 1. Separate courses for watchmakers and clockmakers The 1995 Lathe Program will be presented on the fol­ will be conducted simultaneously in both bench lowing schedule during the coming calendar year: courses and in the Project Extend Education center. • The 1995 Bench Course Lathe Program. The instruc­ The teaching points will be the same for both watch­ tor will return to the same city three times to present makers and clockmakers, but the dimensions of the four-day blocks of instruction when the Skill Devel­ projects will differ for each group of students. opment Program is taught in the bench course format. 2. The amount of equipment the student will be expected 1. February 10-13, 1995 in Austin, Texas- to bring has been reduced to an absolute minimum. Phase III of The Watchmakers and Clockmakers Specialized machinery will be provided by the instruc­ Program. tor during Phase III and Phase IV of the Skill Devel­ 2. March 10-13, 1995 in Denver, Colorado­ opment courses. The student will not be required to Phase III of The Watchmakers and Clockmakers buy additional tools or machinery as he progresses Program. through each phase of the Skill Development Program. • The 1995 Project Extend Lathe Program. Phase I, II 3. Students enrolling in the Special Interest/Special and III will be conducted in a twelve-day block in Cin­ Equipment Courses will be expected to bring all of cinnati. Phase IV will be conducted as a separate six­ their own equipment. Because of the expense of the day block in Cincinnati. equipment addressed in these courses, they have been 1. March 20-April 1, 1995 in Cincinnati,Ohio­ scheduled separately from Skill Development Program Phase I, II and III of The Watchmakers and classes. The Special Interest/Special Equipment Clockmakers Lathe Program. courses will be made available primarily to affiliate • The 1995 Special Interest/Special Equipment courses chapters or to groups interested in scheduling this in­ will be taught on a schedule determined by the inter­ struction for their members. As these courses are est of the membership. scheduled on request, no inventories of premachined parts or materials are kept on hand. Adequate time must be allowed to procure materials and assemble the student parts sets when planning these courses. 4. Wheel and pinion cutting courses will be added to The Lathe Program in 1995. Students registering for these courses will be expected to bring their own watch­ makers lathes to prepare their mandrels, fly cutter ar­ bors, wheel and pinion blanks. All of the wheel-cut­ ting equipment for these courses will he provided by the instructor.

Student Equipment Needs Minimal Progress continues to be made in reducing the amount of equipment the student will be required to bring to the 1995 lathe courses. • The student will be expected to bring an American style watchmakers lathe, his own collets, an eye loupe and a small number of common horological hand tools. • Most of the parts for the major student projects have been premachined so very little class time is required to assemble them. • Specialized tools such as taps, dies and diamond wheels will be provided for the student to use during each of the Skill Development courses. • Details concerning scheduling instruction for groups and registration procedures for the lathe program were A universal indexing attachment mounted on a milling presented on pages 37-43 of Volume 17, Number 11 machine will be available for students to use during Phase of the Horological Times which was mailed to the IV of The 1995 La,the Program

Horological Times/December 1994 37 TABLE 1 THE 1995 WATCHMAKERS AND CLOCKMAKERS SKILL DEVELOPMENT LATHE PROGRAM Two-Day Courses - WATCHMAKERS CLOCKMAKERS PHASE I Course 1 Basic Lathe Operations for the Watchmaker Basic Lathe Operations for the Clockmaker The student will prepare steel and carbide cutting The student will prepare steel and carbide cutting tools. He will make a set of jewel pushers and tools. He will make a boxwood chuck arbor and a six staking tools. set of five clockmakers punches. Course 2 Lathe Accessories for the Watchmaker Lathe Acces ories for the Clockmaker The student will construct a set of brass cement chucks, The student will make a lantern pinion drilling guide, a a precision grinding arbor, a tailstock drilling pad and precision grinding arbor, a tailstock drilling pad and a a filing rest with a micrometer adjusting mechanism. filing rest with a micrometer adjusting mechanism. PHASE II Course 3 Watch Wheel Blanks and Arbors Clock Wheel Blanks, Hubs and Arbors The student will make an arbor and a wheel blank. The student will make an arbor, a hub and a wheel blank These components will be mounted to make a for a clock. These components will be mounted to make a watch wheel ebauche. He will also make a clock wheel ebauche. He will make a lantern pinion to chronograph idler wheel ebauche. include the atbor. shrouds and trundles. Cour e 4 Wmding Stems and Spring -San-el Arbors Winding and Function Control Arbors The student will make a winding stem and a The student will make an arbor to regulate the time \\linding arbor for a po~k.et watch. keeping function and a winding arbor for a clock. PHASE ill Course 5 Turning Watch Staffs Between Centers, Tu.ming Large Marine Chronometer Staffs between Repivoting and the Use of the Jacot Tool the Centers, Repivoting and the Use of the Jacot Tool The student will cut a balance staff for an English The student will turn a large jewel setting for a pocket watch between centers, learn to repivot two marine chronometer balance and secure the jewel sizes of watch wheels, and burnish pivots using in place. He will cut a staff for a small marine the Jacot tool. chronometer using a cement chuck. Course 6 The student will make a setting and secure a jewel The student will turn a large jewe] setting for a in place. He will cut a staff for a small pocket marine chronometer balance and secure the jewel in watch using a cement chuck. place. He will cut a staff for a small marine chronometer using a cement chuck. PHASE IV Course 7 Cutting Watch Wheels Using Commercially Cutting Clock Wheels Using Commercially Produced Cutters Produced Cutters The student will make a large watch wheel using The student will make a large clock wheel using wheel cutting equipment provided by wheel cutting equipment provided by the instructor. the instructor. He will also have the opportunity He will also have the opportunity to cut a small clock to cut a small watch wheel using this equipment. wheel using_ this eguipment. Course8 Cutting Watch Wheel With Fly Cutters Cutting Clock Wheels With Fly Cutters The student will make fly cutters and arbors to cut The student will make fly cutters and arbors to cut large and small watch wheels on equipment large and small wheels on equipment provided p1evided by the instructor. by the instructor. Course9 Cutting and-Polishing Watch Pinion Cutting and Polisbing Clock Pinions The student will make a large pinion for a watch and The student will make a pinion for a clock and use use a pivot polisher provided by the instructor to finish the a pivot polisher provided by the instructor to finish pivots. The pivot polisher will also be used for a simple the pivots. The pivot polisher will also be used for a damaskeel)ing exercise. simple damaskeening exercise. TABLE2 THE 1995 WATCHMAKERS AND CLOCKMAKERS SPECIAL INTEREST/SPECIAL EQUIPMENT LATHE PROGRAM COURSES ffiach four-dav course consists of two blocks of instruction) WATCHMAKERS CLOCKMAKERS Cross Slide The student will make a general purpose cutting The student will make a general purpose cutting tool Operations tool and boring bar. He will make a key set center and a boring bar. He will make a center wheel and (Four days) wheel and winding ratchet ebauche. The square a winding ratchet ebauche. He will make the square will be placed in the winding ratchet using a set in the winding wheel with a set of broaches made on of broaches made on the watchmakers lathe. the watchmakers lathe. Micro Lathe The student will make a general purpose cutting The student will make a spring barrel and a great Operations tool and a boring bar. He will make a spring barrel wheel ebauche for an antique clock using the (Four Days) and a fusee ebauche for an antique pocket watch micro lathe or a watchmakers lathe equipped using the micro lathe or a watchmakers lathe with a cross slide. equipped with a cross slide. 38 Horological Times/December 1994 When registering for these lathe courses, please be sure to specify whether you're signing up for the Clockmakers or Watchmakers Course.

George Kiser looks on as Nino Gonzales works on a stu­ dent project during Phase I Bench Course conducted in William Rhodes drills a hole in a student project during Austin, Texas between September 7-10, 1994. Mr. Kiser the Project Extend Lathe Course held in Cincinnati, Ohio, provided equipment for several students during this course March 14-26, 1994. and is to be commended for his generous support of the Lathe Program.

Charles Clark has been a strong supporter of the Lathe Graduates of Phase 111, Orange County, California, Feb­ Program since its beginning. ruary 14, 1994. Left to right, front row: Henry Mizushima, Roy Hovey (Instructor), Kaz Iwasaki, Mike Mylamuck. Back row: Tom Brown, Earl Stewart, Charles Clark, Ed­ ward Athey and Tom Machiarella. Horological Times/December 1994 39 Guest instructor J.M. Huckabee explains one of the many lathe accessories he brought for his presentation during the Phase I bench course conducted in Austin, Texas be­ tween September 7-10, 1994. Tom Brown enjoys a light hearted moment in Orange County, California, February 11-14, 1994.

Jim Williams works on a student project during the Project Extend Lathe Course held in Cincinnati, Ohio, March 14-26, 1994.

Marvin Morrison works on a student project during Phase I course held in Denver, Colorado between July 15-18, 1994. 40 Horological Times/December 1994 A horizontal mill with a detent type indexing attachment Two Bergeon 6580 wheel cutting machines will be avail­ will be available for students to use during Phase IV of able for use during Phase IV of The 1995 Lathe Program. The 1995 Lathe Program.

Milling machines will be made available for students to cut Lathes equipped with milling spindles and overhead drive pinions on during Phase N of The 1995 Lathe Program. units will be available for students to cut watch wheels during Phase IV of The 1995 Lathe Program.

BATTERY CONTEST

Because of the expanded activities at the next Annual Meeting, there will be a slight change in the Battery Contest Awards.

To be included in this year's contest, all batteries must be received at AWI Central by June 9, 1995. Those received after that date will be credited to­ ward the 1996 contest. Small wheel cutting machnes will be available for clockmaking students to use with constant profile cutters Thank you for your cooperation, and with fly cutters during Phase IV of The 1995 Lathe Fred S. B urckhardt, Chairman Program. Horological Times/December 1994 41 Museum Wish List

In the October Horological Times, James This Month's Wish List Broughton, Trustee and Museum Manager for the Featured on this month's want list are two mu­ Orville R. Hagans-ELM Trust Museum, announced seum categories: an expanded museum in the headquarters building 1. "The History of Time Display," the purpose of now under construction. This museum will be the which is to: focal point of the new facility. The trustees are seek­ a. display the various methods used by man to ing additional items to display in this expanded fa­ tell time; cility. Gifts to the museum are tax deductible; in b. be of general interest to the public; addition to gifts, loans of collections or specific c. be a teaching tool for students. items are being sought. Items sought in this category include: The trustees have developed a "Wish List" to • Incense clocks suggest items for which they have a special need. • Nighttime oil lamp clocks The list has been divided into eight specific catego­ • Dragon Clock (Chinese) using candles ries. Each month we will list some of the items • Sundial with concave surface sought in one or two of the categories. Each month • Sundial-Hemicyclium we will list the donors of gifts to the museum. • Water clocks • Floating Magnet Clock (turtle) Donations Already Received • Japanese stick clock The envelope in which the November Horologi­ • Candle clocks cal Times was mailed mentioned one premier gift of • Shepherd's sun dial an Orrey Clock, donated by Harold B. Davis, • Other items that fit this category. Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio. 2. The second category featured this month is "Spe­ This month we are pleased to announce the gift cialty Items." Items sought include: of another premiere donation, a one-of-a-kind mod­ • Bank vault locks ule of the Hamilton Watch Company's Pulsar Time • Sports timers Computer Heart Rate Watch. This was the last tech­ • Industrial timers nical breakthrough by Pulsar prior to the sale of the • Bouncing Doll clock company in 1977. The donation comes through the • Apple-eater (German) good offices of Henry B. Fried from John M. Bergey, • Conical pendulums Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Mr. Bergey was president • Mystery clocks of Pulsar from its start in 1970 until its sale in 1977. • Tower & Street clocks In addition to this item, Mr. Bergey has donated: • Novelty Clocks-all varieties • A man's dress Pulsar, less internal module. This • Other items that fit this category. was the most popular model because of its re­ If you have questions about how to proceed with duced size. This stainless steel version also had a donation or the loan of articles, contact AWl Cen­ touch actuation rather than push buttons, and sold tral. Next month we will feature additional "want" for $295 in 1977. categories. D • Pulsar dealer sign used to identify the "carriage trade" jewelers so Pulsar retailers could be iden­ Support tified. TheAWI-ELMTRUST • A Hamilton Watch Company photograph. The dealer sign and company photograph will be a welcome addition to the museum's American Watch SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM Manufacturers memorabilia. The two Pulsar items BY SENDING YOUR OLD will complement the other History of the Quartz WATCH BATTERIES TO THE Watch Display pieces now on display. AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211

42 Horological Times/December 1994 Watch Inspection Titn.e April 3-9, 1995

Bring customers into your shop during this Your staff will have an opportunity to talk special promotion at a time when the important to the customers about your service and merchan­ gift-giving season is approaching. Your cus­ dise and why they should come to you for profes­ tomer will have an opportunity to observe the sional advice. professiona~ism of your staff and well-equipped se:rVice department. Inspect the watch for wear, leakage, To take advantage of this promotion, cop.tact appearance, and band safety. If the watch or A WI Central for your FREE Watch lnspection case is too worn and not repairable, you might Promotion Kit! suggest the purchase of a new timepiece. While your service staff is completing The Kit includes: the inspection, your customer will have time to ./ A placard for your window or shop counter browse and look at the merchandise you have ./ Two radio scripts promoting a free watch on display in anticipation of the gift-giving inspection (30 seconds each) season. Select merchandise that will be saleable ./ Small newspaper ads but not frequently found in competing stores. ./ A proof to print ditect mail announce­ This will set you apart. ments

CAR,EOF A Perfect Addition for THE Watch Inspection Time MODERN •• The perfect addition to your Watch Inspection ·~~ ~~H Time public relations material is the "Care of the CARE OF THE MODERN WATCH Modern Watch" brochure. These brochures are a Dos and Don 'ts! terrific handout for the customers you see ENERGY CONTAMINANTS during Watch Inspection Time, April 3-9, 1995. DO Wind ;omple~~ once 11 day Don't ~~;:~:;:~;:-:.~:; Wear automatic: wind all day otherfine.particlemateriala. Brochures are only $5.00per100, postage orwindm.anually o• Cha.r1g9 battery at one• when TEMPERATURE paid (100 minimum). Space is provided for you ll~llltftd Do ::;.::e·~~tc~-= ti.met.. ping. to stamp your name and address on each bro­ MOISrURE Keepyourw•tchdryexc.ptu Do noted •Ifmoiatureiadetected Don't ~{:_:i;:.w;:!1h~=~ chure. in any watch, ha.ve it aervked 11.p it or Un.pair timekeepina' atonee!

Go one step further and get your name, •-waterre.U.tant•mean.pro· MAGNEI'ISM tected.fromaccidetitalwetting Drym900n1111poNibl• ALSO: Don't ~~~:~.~~tc:o! r:t::: address, and phone number preprinted on the •Diven'w11tclin11Htob.uaed tricmoton,Bllner11ton,r:11diOll, 11ccorcliila' to l!l4I1ufseturer'• televiaiom.,•tc. back of each brochure for a small additional im.tructliirui MAINTENANCE SHOCK SERVICE E%pOH}'OUrwatch to UIIWIWll charge. Call A WI Central for a price quote. All Take Y1JUr watch to a compe­ Don't or u:ceHiv. 1hock• which Do tentwatc:hmsbrCorneo:e..ary cau1e poor timell:eeping or O?P"'riod.icMrvic•t.omai.ntain damage, even to ~shock re.ia­ orders must be prepaid. it.a 11cclll"l!ley and to prevent l6u" •rid d.clrode ...... &... Don't let this opportunity slip by. Order pRmaturew•ar your FREE Watch Inspection Time kit from A WI Central now and get a supply of "Care of the Modern Watch" brochures for your customers.

Horological Times/December 1994 43 l\1e01bers'l\1ailbag

Dear Sir: NA WCC functions. We welcome these opportunities and This last weekend at Springfield, Illinois, I attended believe the two organizations should complement each my first AWI class: Cuckoo Clock Repair by Jim Will­ other's missions for the good of horology. iams. I did so enjoy the course and learned a lot. This will certainly not be my last course. Jim is a great teacher and Dear Mr. Cerullo, taught us a lot. Cuckoo clocks had been so intimidating to I have been a member of AWI for almost two years, me, with the wires, cuckoo, and music box, that I actually and have enjoyed the membership privileges as well as never wanted to touch a cuckoo clock. Now I am anxious the informative articles in the Horological Times. to get into the ones I have and use what Jim taught us. I graduated from Gem City College School of Horol­ Also, I do appreciate all the effort Jim made to get ogy in February of 1993, and I am currently working full­ from Cortez, Colorado to Springfield with his luggage and time at Providence Watch Hospital in Cranston, Rhode clock cases. Island. Although I do much warranty work for Concord, Thank you so much for the course, and this certainly Movado and Swiss Army watches, my real passion lies in won't be my last. the restoration of American pocket and wrist watches. Sincerely, Recently I applied to the WOSTEP program in Swit­ Robert C. Miller M.D. zerland, where I was made aware that there is, at mini­ Indian Head Park, IL mum, a one-year waiting list and no guarantee of admit­ tance due to the number of applicants, no matter how they Gentlemen: excel. AWI was kind enough several months ago to send us After looking over AWI' s list of watchmaking schools, copies of your material in Cincinnati Time. Copies enclosed in hope of finding another program in which I could ap­ of material we received as a donation this week. Hope ply, I saw none designed for the semi-experienced watch­ you can use it. maker. I have written to the Federation of the Swiss Watch­ Regards, making Industry and several executives at watch compa­ Eileen Doudna nies and distributors, including North American Watch. Librarian, NAWCC Unfortunately, I have received little, if any, help in find­ ing any other European watch schools. Dear AWi: I truly want to improve on my skills and carry on the I have enjoyed the complimentary copies of your tradition of fine watchmaking. In frustration, I am finding Horological Times magazines. I also have a great respect that all my sources for information on European schools for what AWI does and stands for. And, I have been very are almost exhausted. I am writing to you in hope, almost happy to have AWI representative Milton Stevens to re­ desperation, for any and all information you can supply. spond to our Answer Box questions which require a "tech­ I pray I have not chosen an art which only acknowl- nical" answer. Our mutual interest in horology make us edges the elite. sister, or brother, organizations, and I believe we are not Thank you so much for you time and help. competitive in our aims and missions. Therefore, I believe Christopher Giglio we should work closely together to our mutual benefit. Attleboro, MA Accordingly, please accept my membership for one year per the enclosed application. Editor's Note: Sincerely, We have referred Mr. Giglio to the "Education Up­ Paul V. Heffner, Secretary and Chairman date" article, "Advanced Watchmaker Training Program The Answer Box Rescheduled for January 1996," which appeared on page 7 of the November 1994 Horological Times. We have also Editor's Note: sent him an advance copy of the announcement appear­ We couldn't agree more with Mr. Heffner's observa­ ing on page 44 of this issue. tions regarding the mutual interests of NA WCC and A WI Now is the time for Mr. Giglio and others having simi­ and, as such, are noncompetitive organizations. As Ms. lar goals to contact A WI to express that interest. It is only Doudna 's letter indicates, our libraries always do their when the need for this program is documented that we best to cooperate with each other. can push forward with implementation. Several times in recent years, we have been privileged D to be invited to present technical programs at various 44 Horological Times/December 1994 Bulletin Board

A. NEW REQUESTS sheets from a US firm using the above-mentioned brand CHINA-WILSON SPORTS QUARTZ WATCH names. They plan to open an office in the Czech Repub­ Jim Stanley, Fort Wayne, IN writes: lic, and would like to know where to contact the Dejunno We have a LCD watch with no manufacturer ID other firm. The American Trade Department in Germany could than China and Wilson Sports. It may have been a Wilson not supply a contact. Sports Equipment promotional item, but we really don't know that. If anyone knows the source of manufacturing, SEIKO'S QT-10 TIMER USER'S MANUAL or parts, we would appreciate knowing. Nicholas Derczo, Chandler, AZ is seeking a copy of the user's manual for Seiko's QT-10 Timer. When Seiko was SEIKO QT99 INSTRUCTIONAL MANUAL contacted, they replied that the QT-10 is very old, and the Irv Bard, Milwaukee, WI is seeking an instruction manual manual is no longer available. for the Seiko QT99. GREINER CHRONOGRAPHIC "SUPER" TIMING SWARTCHILD & COMPANY "UNIVERSAL" MACHINE OPERATOR'S MANUAL BALANCE STAFF ASSORTMENT CHART John Warren, Baltimore, MD is seeking an operator's and Clark Donley, Richmond, VA is seeking a copy of a chart maintenance manual for a Greiner Chronographic "Super" for a 1925 Swartchild & Company "Universal" balance watch timing machine. He describes it as being fifteen to staff assortment. The staffs are in bottles; the last bottle twenty years old, has a sloping front, and measures about number is #891. 9" x 13".

SUNDIALS GRANDPA TIME, HOMESTAR INTERNATIONAL Jay Asbrock, Orange County, CA is seeking a catalog or CLOCK MADE IN CHINA source for sundials. He wants to donate one to a local Ray Baker, Hernando, FL writes: school; the size should be about 14" in diameter. We have "I am looking for information on the clock in this pho­ seen these at various times in catalogs, but now that we tograph. It is marked Grandpa Time, Homestar Interna­ want to make a referral, we can't. tional, Plesanton, CA, I988 Patents Pending, made in China. B. RESPONSES "A letter mailed to this address was returned as unde­ C.&E. MARSHALL HAMILTON PARTS CABINET liverable. James S. Foss, Lewisburg, PA has supplied the charts that "The clock consists of a quartz movement, a digital Joe Marsh Cole of Dublin, TX was seeking. LED readout light control, and volume for the tape player. The printed circuit board seems to be missing a capacitor SAINT LOUIS SCHOOL OF WATCHMAKING designated C48. I need to know the value of C48, and any Walter Opdycke, Livonia, MI supplied information about other information about this clock, instructions, schematic, this school for Gene Bertrum. The material is in the form etc. of an old watchmaker's scrapbook. The book contains an "This is the only clock of this type I have ever seen; advertisement for the school, and a number of correspon­ there must be someone else who has seen it and will share dence course lessons published by the school. The adver­ information with me." tisement indicates that the school was located at 5815 Easton Avenue, St. Louis, MO. The school was established SCHEMATIC FOR L & R MODEL 320 ULTRA­ in 1886, and was under the management of R. Jaegermann. SONIC TANK Interestingly enough, the scrapbook also contains ar­ Ken Setser, Potsdam, OH needs a copy of the schematic ticles and tips on watchmaking from that era. We are for the L & R model 320 Ultrasonic Tank. pleased to have it for our archival files. SCHEMATIC FOR SONIX ULTRASONIC CLEANER C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED Charles Goad, Independence, KS seeks a schematic for a DEJUNNO, USA QUARTZ WATCHES MARKETED Sonix 4 Ultrasonic cleaner model SS101. AS: ETHNO-LINE, NOSTALGIA-LINE, SPORTIVE D USA AND STITCHING Jana Steenker, Technic & Mehr, Bachum, Germany writes that at the Frankfurt Autumn Fair "94," they obtained data Horological Times/December 1994 45 Education Update

By James Lubic We have two new Project Extend classes for this year, and they both are scheduled to take place in February. "Beginning Horology" is planned for the week of February 6-1 O. This course was designed for the real beginner in our trade. During the week, students will spend time sawing and filing, and will learn some very basic lathe operations. We will also spend some time on the basic theory of what makes a watch and clock "tick." The "Machine Shop Practices" is planned for the week of February 13-17. This course emphasizes the need for basic ma­ chine shop practices when advanced watch and clock repair/res­ toration is attempted. This is a hands-on course taught by Ron Watch III - Hairspring Vibrating. DeCorte. Mr. DeCorte will concentrate on the proper handling of specialty tools, including the making and sharpening of wheel (AWi) 55 555 and pinion cutters. Mr. DeCorte will cover more ground in this course than I have space for here. If you are interested in a more Education center detailed course outline, please contact AWI Central. As a reminder, the ELM Trust has $250 grants available to members wishing to attend Project Extend. If the ELM Trust issues you the $250 grant, AWI will waive your tuition fee for the course you wish to attend. In order to qualify for a grant, you must have been amember ofA WI for at least a year, and show a need by filling out an ELM Trust grant application. The application process takes about thirty days, so be sure to apply early to the course you are interested in. Watch III class. Be sure and check the "Bench Course" schedule for courses near you. If you are interested in any of the January or February classes, be sure to get your registration in early. We all know how time gets away from us around the holidays. Before you know it, it is fifteen days before a scheduled class, and we have to cancel the course due to insufficient registration. Remember, register early! As announced in last month's Horological Times, AWI is preparing to introduce its "Advanced Watchmakers Training" in early 1996. We have seen plenty of evidence from every aspect of our trade as to the need for such training, but how many inter­ ested watchmakers are out there who really want to take their skill to the next level? We are looking for people who want to Watch V - Making drill bits. become experts in the restoration of antique watches from all eras, as well as with the modem complicated high-grade watches being produced today. We are presently collecting names of interested parties to participate in these two-week block courses. If you or any one you know is interested in reaching this higher level of skill, write to AWI Central for more information. Perhaps you will want to stay in the Cincinnati area and complete the training in one seven­ month period. If this is the case, please let us know so we can begin to research long-term living arrangements. The main point is: if advanced watchmaking skills are taught in Cincinnati, and you think you would be interested in achieving that skill level, drop us a note now! D Watch V class.

46 Horological Times/December 1994 Do You Want to Develop Special Watchmaking Skills?

AWI is in the process of establishing an Ad­ terest now. There is no obligation; we will answer vanced Watchmaker Training Program to begin in any specific question you might have at this time. January 1996. This program will provide graduate­ Students who will be completing the basic watch­ level training in watch repair and restoration. maker course within the next few years, and who an­ The program, originally scheduled for January ticipate taking this advanced training, should express 1995, had to be rescheduled because of the decision their interest at this time. to construct a new headquarters and classroom fa­ Retail jewelers, trade shops and company service cilities. Another factor was that there was less than centers that have personnel they wish to sponsor for enthusiastic support from segments of the industry the advanced training program should also express that stand to benefit most. We have overcome this interest at this time. latter factor. Once the new facility is ready and stu­ Developing a list of prospective students will dents have applied for enrollment, we will be ready help us better plan the implementation of the course to go. and to schedule visiting instructors from the United Those interested in becoming a "Watch Restorer States and other countries who will share their ex­ Master" will have two tracks available to them to pertise with those participating in the training. attain this goal. Some may elect to complete the For more details, contact AWI Central now. course by attending on a full-time basis. Others may 0 complete various blocks of training until the entire curriculum has been completed. This could be ac­ complished over a period of several years. 1994 INDEX Full-time students will attend for seven months. We anticipate there will be space to accommodate A complete index for 1994 issues of Horlogical four full-time students and four block course students Times will appear in the January, 1995 issue. in any given week. In addition to the advanced top­ ics such a course should encompass, special empha­ sis will be given to the design and fabrication of missing or broken parts, wheel and pinion design and fabrication, bridge design and fabrication, and ad­ vanced horological machine shop techniques. The cost for each block will be $250 per five­ day week of instruction, Monday through Friday. Full-time students will have the option of using the lab on weekends at no additional charge. They will be able to use this time to polish their newly acquired skills, work on individual projects, or study in the library. The cost of the entire course for full-time students will be $7 ,000. A limited number of full or partial tuition grants will be available to help stu­ dents attend on a full-time basis. In order to develop the program, we must begin to develop a list of prospective students. Some stu­ dents may want to complete the entire course in a seven-month period. These students will be given preference for the limited number of spots available. Next preference will be given to students who plan to complete the entire course by attending specific blocks over a period of two or more years. The re­ Since1909 maining spots will be for members who wish to choose one or several blocks per year. Individuals interested in the course for the first ~NEWALL or second year it is offered should express that in- ~ Chicago. Horological Times/December 1994 47 News of the Trade Building An American Clock Movement Lorus Lights Up Watch Sales Clockmakers Newsletter has just published a new book An innovative display featuring a rotating pedestal and by editor Steven G. Conover. Building an American Clock ultraviolet black light to make the watch dials actually glow Movement presents an exciting clockmaking project: mak­ in darkness increases sales of the Lorus Lumibrite watches ing a sturdy American movement! The pendulum length dramatically according to Ted Isimaru, vice president of is just over 6", perfect for a shelf clock case. Lorus. The book is especially helpful to first-time clock build­ "Lorus Lumibrite watches have state-of-the-art, glow­ ers who desire to make new or replacement gears, pinions in-the-dark technology, and this striking new display ef­ and other parts. The author illustrates and explains each fectively communicates that message to consumers," notes clockmaking step as he uses a Sherline lathe, a Sherline Tony Cannilla, advertising manager of Lorus. mill, and a Unimat-3 lathe. Included in the book are the Lorus Lumibrite watches glow for hours after being complete plans for making J.M. Huckabee's Wheel Making exposed to either natural Fixture, and the gear tooth fly cutters ofArchie Perkins (AWI). sunlight for two minutes, or The book is an easy-to-read 8 112" x 11 ", and spiral normal indoor light for ten binding allows the pages to open flat on the bench. With minutes. They require no 84 pages and 155 photos and drawings, Building an Ameri­ extra batteries, and there are can Clock Movement is a guide to clockmaking and clock no buttons to push to activate parts making for professionals and hobbyists. It is also a the lighted dial. reference on clock gears, the Lorus offers a full range BUILDING AN AMERICAN CLOCK MOVEMENT strip-pallet recoil escape­ of quality quartz watches ment, fly cutters, workshop with suggested retail prices procedures, and sources of from $12.95 to $99.95 . ...., ..... tools and materials. Lorus is a division of Seiko Building an American Corporation of America. For Clock Movement is available details, call (201) 529-5730.

1. · ··'..~· from Clockmakers Newslet­ ter, 203 John Glenn Ave., Light Machines Has New Desktop System Reading PA 19607, $21.95 Light Machines Corporation introduced several new ST~VEN G. CONOVER postpaid. products into the proLIGHT series of desktop manufac­ turing systems at the International Manufacturing Tech­ Vibrograph Introduces Check Impulse nology Show held recently in Chicago. The new proLIGHT Vibrograf U.S.A. Corp. announced the introduction 1000 and 2000 Machining Centers with Automatic Tool of a new, inexpensive quartz watch analyzer. The check Changers provide custom manufacturing and secondary impulse tests the electronic circuit, and will clear some operations capabilities, and are among the least expensive simple mechanical blockages without opening the watch machining centers on the market. case. The check impulse is another example ofVibrograf's These systems allow engineers to produce prototypes, Swiss engineering expertise. and rapidly test form, fit and function of new part designs. Custom manufacturing applications and secondary opera­ tions are also performed cost effectively with these sys­ tems, which range in price from only $12,495 to $24,995. These small, portable systems set up wherever needed, in a manufacturing plant or engineering office-literally on a desktop. A number of different proLIGHT Machining Center models are available with three-axis or four-axis control. Each machine has an XYZ work envelope of 12" x 6" x 9" , and features a high-tech polymer composite base that provides excellent vibration dampening for smoother sur­ face finishes and extended tool life. Spindle speeds of up to 5,000 RPM, 10,000 RPM or 42,000 RPM are available with a 1 HP spindle motor.

48 Horological Times/December 1994 ....____N_e_w_s_o_f _th_e_Tr_ad_e____ I I Scholastically Speaking I The easy-to-use, menu-driven machine control soft­ By Chuck McKinney ware runs from any DOS-based personal computer. The Instructor, Ohio Valley Watchmaking Institute software supports three-axis linear and circular interpola­ Once again we are coming to the end of another good tion for unlimited contouring, canned cycles for quick and year. I hope that everyone accomplished most of their efficient programming, and 3-D graphic verification for goals, and that 199S will be even better. I'm excited about tool path visualization. Full four-axis simultaneous ma­ all the interest I see in our programs, and with the hope of chining capability is available with an optional fourth Axis being in our new building next year, it should be an excit­ SC Rotary Positioner. ing time for all of us. The proLIGHT 3000 Turning Center is a two-axis slant We are able now to teach more effectively in the class­ bed CNC lathe with an XZ travel of 4" x 10". The system room because of video and many other teaching aids. The supports canned cycles for threading, turning and drill­ many seminars that are taught around the country and at ing. The machine comes with a 4" chuck and can accom­ Project Extend are a great help, and we hope to see more modate SC collets with an optional collet closer. An auto­ of them in the future. matic eight-station tool tur­ Since January of this year, I have had many requests ret, quick change tooling, from all over the US for assistance in finding watchmak­ and other machine accesso­ ers and clockmakers to fill positions in stores and shops. ries are available. We keep hearing all the time that our craft is declining, Light Machines has been but I don't see that happening at all. I think we are going supplying affordable CAD/ to see more people who want general service training such CAM/CNC manufacturing, as fitting of crystals, stems and crowns, and even quartz prototyping and training so­ movement replacement. The demand is growing for this lutions since 1984. For more kind of service, and short courses could be provided to information on Light Ma­ those who may not want to be a practicing watchmaker chines' desktop systems, call "full time." 1-800-221-2763. 0 I believe that horology will continue to grow, because it's something that is needed in many areas, not just in the jewerly store. The skills of watchmakers will help them AWi MATERIAL find jobs in many areas. I look forward to the coming year, knowing that the SEARCH NETWORK demand for my craft will only grow. I will continue to urge young people to study watchmaking as a career, be­ EDITDR' S NOTE: This column is designed to work in cause I know they will find it very satisfying and reward­ coajunction with the AWI Movement Bank. Ifyou can ~- 0 supply any of the items listed here, please send details to the Material Search Netwmk Do not send the items. Members requesting these items will be advised of their availability, and will contact you directly.

ZZl Rolex 1030, case and dial. Saving your Horological Times? ZZ3 Gruen 740, balance complete. Announcing NEW & IMPROVED HT BINDERS! ZZ4 Swiss 8-day pocket watch mainspring. We have the answer to protecting and organizing your Measures 2.7mm x .28mm x 6S" long with magazines. Our leather-look binder holds 12 issues hole end. (one volume). End the frustration of searching for back issues or trying to remember technical details that you If you can supply any of these items, please contact: just know you've read. If you are interested in organi­ AWi Material Search Network zation, send a check or money order in the amount of AWi Central $12.00 (postpaid) to: HT Binders, P.O. Box 11011, P.O. Box 11011 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. (Please allow three weeks Cincinnati OH 45211 for handling and delivery.)

Horological Times/December 1994 49 Association News

FLORIDA 40s-when the Gruen Watch Company was located at Time Recently the Florida State Watchmakers held its meet­ Hill, Cincinnati, Ohio-the Cincinnati Guild had been one ing at Winter Park Tech, Winter Park, Florida. On behalf of the premier national watchmakers associations. During of the Florida State Watchmakers, President Doug and after W.W.II, the organization became inactive and Maggard presented a contribution to Winter Park Tech remained so until White and a handful of dedicated indi­ instructor Ken Pell for the Hank Fralix Memorial Fund. viduals spent many hours revising the constitution and Hank Fralix was an instructor at Winter Park Tech for bylaws and organizing meetings and programs for watch­ many years prior to his recent death. Donations to the me­ makers in the tri-state area. morial fund are used to help watchmaking and Once the guild was reactivated, White played a key clockmaking students at Winter Park Tech with tuition and role in providing educational programs for it, and the guild tools. once again gained the prominent position it had enjoyed among associations in the United States. He was the kind of leader who could always be counted on to get the job done, no matter how difficult the task. · White handled the Blue Cross/Blue Shield health in­ surance program for CWG in the 60s. When AWI was lo­ cated in Cincinnati, Ohio, White was called upon to handle the income protection program the Institute offered to its 6,000 members. White will long be remembered for his willingness to al ways lend a helping hand to someone who needed it.

TEXAS Pictured left to right: Ralph Meadors, Roy Henry, Ken On September 17-18, the Texas Watchmakers Asso­ Pell, Tony Montefusco, Doug Maggard and Ernie Tope. ciation held their annual convention, which was hosted this year by the San Antonio Guild. The San Antonio Guild, MINNESOTA along with the aid of the Oak Hills Hotel, made a very The Minnesota Clockmakers Guild meets the first commemorative event! Thursday of each month at the St. Paul Technical College. There was a total of six speakers: Joe Cerullo, AWI At their September meeting, Greg Hostetter, CC, gave president (Handling Comebacks); Renata USA; Ultrason­ an excellent program on "The Business of Repair." Greg ics-Repairs (Lone Star Technical Services); Fred discussed and then lead a very good dialogue on the busi­ Burckhardt (Management for Fun and Profit); Crystal ness aspects of the clock repair profession. His talk pre­ Making System (Schohl Machine Inc.); and Witschi Elec­ sented useful information for those who are currently in tronics USA (Time For Accuracy). the business and those who are considering going into The banquet Saturday evening was fantastic (filet mi­ business, and he did not bore those with no business aspi­ gnon with the works)! rations (hobbyists). Sunday consisted of the past presidents' breakfast, and His talk covered subjects such as operating a trade General Assembly (which included voting and installing shop versus operating a retail shop, home-based versus new officers, pictured below). retail shop, giving your estimate and getting your price, The weekend concluded as it started ,with a brunch in reducing or eliminating comebacks, pricing policies, don't the hospitality room. Everything was delicious and plen­ do it all yourself, inventory control, and saying no. tiful! Hats off to the San Antonio Guild and their wives for OHIO a wonderful convention! Russell White, charter member of AWI and long-time For more information, call new TWA President, Cully member of the Cincinnati Watchmakers Guild, died Octo­ Ellis at (512) 459-0126. ber 3rd after a long illness. TWA's officers for 1995 are: President, Cully Ellis, In 1958-1959, Russell White served as one of the Vice President, Sue Ann Wysong, Treasurer, Kip Naleski, original interim Board of Directors members who reacti­ Corres. Sec., Jannette Bost, Recording Sec., Paulette Fesler vated the Cincinnati Watchmakers Guild. In the 1930s and and Editor, TWA Newsletter, Paulette Fesler. 0

50 Horological Times/December 1994 Affiliate Chapters Column

Those Who Show Up

By Greg Hostetter

here is a saying, "Politics is run by those who show bership the importance of having representation at next T up." Even though this comment was not made by a year's affiliates meeting. Inform your membership that by politician, it still rings true. The same rule could apply to not sending a delegate, they are putting the seal of ap­ the affiliate chapters committee. Actually the saying could proval on everything that the delegates do at the meeting, be modified to, "The affiliate chapters committee is run the way the meeting is run, the selection of officers, ev­ by those who show up and/or speak up." erything. By not showing up, they are letting the commit­ At the affiliate chapters meeting in June, nineteen out tee be run by those who do show up. of the forty-three AWI affiliate chapters were represented. As a member of a chapter, I would be shocked to find I am at a loss to explain why more chapters don't take out that my chapter was paying money to be an AWi af­ advantage of this meeting. filiate chapter but did not participate in the committee. Last March, a member of one chapter complained to We all have members in our local chapters who pay me, ''The affiliate chapters annual meeting is run by a small their dues yet never show up to any meetings. I've always group of chapters. If you're not in the right group of del­ wondered why these people continue to pay their dues but egates, your chapter has no say in how things are run." In never take part in meetings, seminars, or other activities. a way, this person was right. You see, the chapter that this They are the only ones who know what they are losing by person was from did not send a delegate to the annual not showing up. meeting this year, and thus did not vote or voice an opin­ I am more confused by some of the chapters who pay ion in any matter brought before the group. By not send­ the chapter dues every year but never send a delegate to ing a delegate they, in effect, gave their approval to every­ the chapter meeting, never respond to affiliate chapter thing the delegates did at the meeting. They weren't a part committee correspondence, never voice an opinion. If I of the "right" group-the group that did show up. were a member of such a chapter, I would be a little con­ There is a financial obligation to being an AWi affili­ fused as to why the board was continuing to pay out money ate chapter: fifty dollars. There is also a moral obligation every year, but not taking any of the benefits that the chap­ to being an AWI affiliate chapter: to voice your opinion. ter was entitled to. Only you know what you are losing by The affiliate chapters, like all of the members of AWI, your chapter not taking advantage of everything it is en­ have a responsibility to voice their opinion in the running titled to. of the Institute. By not voicing an opinion, by not sending You may be wondering why I spend so much time a delegate to the affiliates annual meeting, you are saying focusing on the affiliates annual meeting. The answer is that whatever the other delegates decide is okay with you. simple. I consider the meeting to be extremely important This is not the way it should be! Don't cast your vote by for AWI, the affiliate chapters, and the membership of AWI. default. If you like what the affiliate chapters committee I see the meeting as a chance for these three areas to meet is doing, speak up! If you don't like something that is be­ face to face for the benefit of all concerned. ing done by this committee, speak up! Talk to your membership. Talk to the other chapters. The affiliate chapters committee is comprised of all Find out how the other chapters finance their delegate. of the AWi affiliate chapters. As chair of this committee, Make taking an active role in the affiliate chapters com­ it is my responsibility to transfer the thoughts and opin­ mittee and sending a delegate to the meeting an important ions of the chapters to the AWi Board of Directors. This is project for your entire chapter. Both your chapter and AWi a powerful tool that is not being used to its full potential. will benefit greatly. The dates and location for next year's Our committee could be better utilized if every chap­ annual meeting have been set; contact the AWI office for ter would send a representative to the annual meeting. I complete details. Make your reservations now. know that this can pose a financial burden on a chapter, D but AWI does give up to $200 to each chapter to send a delegate. Start planning now. Communicate to your mem-

Horological Times/December 1994 51 C~ASSIFIEU ADS

REGULATIONS AND RATES

Ads are payable in advance $.75 per word, $.80 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $30.00 per column inch, 2-1 /4" wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $5.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance (e.g. February issue closes for copy on January 1st).

HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838 Fax (513) 661-3131

r FACTORY-CERTIFIED FREE ACCUTRON REPAIR TRAD£SMAN ROLEX SERVICE Send 2 men's Accutrons (no basket cases) Ii ii Master Watchmaker, 45 years experience. Will repair one free and keep the other Certified Rolex specialist. Only genuine ma­ SPACE VIEWS -- $150 terials used. Service includes case & brace­ George Hite, 246 Del Pond Drive let refinishing & waterproofing of case. High­ Canton, MA 02021 , (617) 821-5288 HAMILTONELECTRICWATCHREPAIR. grade watches & clocks are our specialty. Expert, experienced service on all Model 500 Ask for Alvin or Marcus; (203) 792-4539. SPACE VIEW CONVEFISIONS $45 and 505 Electric watches. -- Want to buy ~ ~ Hamilton Electric parts. Also unusual Hamilton watches, Hamilton advertising and memorabil­ ARE YOU SPENDING TOO MUCH FOR ia. --Rene Rondeau, P.O. Box391, Corte Madera, TIMING MACHINES -- NEW AND REFUR­ CRYSTALS?? We will make any flat mineral CA 94976. (415) 924-6534, Fax (415) 924-8423. BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON or heavy plastic crystal. One-day turnaround. HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. Call or write for price list. D & H Crystal Co., Call (814) 692-2285. 708-D Westchester Dr., High Point, NC 27262; phone/fax (910) 889-0148. DIAL REFlNISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR -- Bezels, CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, the quartz movement. Send your works to: hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, rebushing. REPAIRING: timers, aircraft clocks, KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., pocket watches. ROYH. NIEGEL, CMC, CMW, Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995. N31552 Saint Joe Drive, Spirit Lake, Idaho 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623-4330.

CUTTERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pin­ ions. Module 0.2to1.0. Constant profile produc­ CLOCK WHEEL AND THE ACCUTRON MAN L) ing traditional square bottomed teeth, 104 sizes. PINION CUTTING Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven sizes), dead A "Cracker Jack" when it beat (set offour sizes). Ratchets 60° and 70°. All Fast service -- Write for free Bro­ comes to repairing Accutron Watches! cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 High Speed chure and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Steel and heat treated under vacuum. Also Himes St., Irving, TX 75060. (214) Let me "Spaceview It" according to cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. Send for 986-7698. Bulova Factory Standards! Information Sheet, prices, and order forms to: P.P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Horological Not anxious to spend money n ..... then trade Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, Upper Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, England; Tele­ in your model 214 & 218 junker watches MURPHY'S phone 0295-680454, Fax 0295-688176. for cash credit against your repair bill! CRYSTAL SERVICE FAST -- QUALITY WORK Why not give me a call and ..... ATMOS BY JAEGER-LECOULTRE • 24-hour turnaround on most jobs. LET'S TALK ACCUTRONS! Overhauled with a • Complete crystal fitting service George Fruge' three-year (3) warranty on all labor for new and old wrist and pocket watches. 251 Greenwich Avenue MIKE'S CLOCK CLINIC CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE LIST Greenwich. Ct. 06830 1326 Stanford Street FAX or PHONE (209) 576-8865 Tel: 203-661-0056 Santa Monica, CA 90404-2502 Established in 1982 & AWi Trained 2324 WESTMINSTER DR. Fax: 203-661-0703 Please Call (31O)828-6707 MODESTO, CA 95355

52 Horological Times/December 1994 CLASSIFIED ADS

PLATFORM ESCAPEMENTS. I have 40 SHIP'S CHRONOMETERS OVERHAULED. years experience in restoring and ma.king parts Also keys, box hardware, etc. I buy chronome­ Custom Made Watch Bands for platform escapements, staffs, cylinders, ters and partial movements. 1 year guarantee repivoting, pinions, hairsprings, and jewels. onrepairs.DEWEYCLARK,(410)592-3617. To Fit Your Vintage Watch New platforms fitted. JOHN BARRS, English 1950s Style (Not Tapered), Made in USA Clockmaker, 3924 S.W. Holden St., Seattle, GENUINE ALLIGATOR & CROCODILE WA 98136; (206) 935-0596. THE MORTICIAN NO COMEBACKS Rolex, Certified Master Wa~hmaker, Atmos AFRICAN OSTRICH WATCH REPAIR· Quality, guaranteed, fast Clock Service (5-year warranty). Servicing all service, on quartz, Accutrons and mechanicals. makes of high-grade watches. Over 50 years Custom crystal fitting available, in shop. No experience, factory recommended for 35 years. ~ !t!!r!U!f l:B~ customer too small. Price list available. Contact All other work guaranteed 2 years and done by Avallable in SHINE or DULL FINISH Charles Bunkelmann, 424 S. Silverbrook Dr., J . Small, CMW & Associates; (713) 561-5147. 9116 518 21/32 11/1 6 3-'4 1af16 West Bend, WI 53095. Phone ( 414) 338-3770, 14mm 16mm Hmm 18mm 19mm 20mm Fax(414) 334-0677. BLACK BROWN PEANUT Al.WAYS IN_STOCI< Also on reqll8St: Red, Green, Blue, Bucg., Gray HAPPY HOLIDAYS ARTICLES FE>R SALE Tl loSe \'.'i11Cll 8a11ds Retail Ill Fins Sic125 lcr s~s OQ 2a from Quality Watch Repair. Professional ser­ 11 11 FOX PRICE S15.00 EA . vice on all repairs. No limit on quantity. Re­ questprice list. Richard Mazza, P.O. Box42057 4, WATCH MOVEMENTS ALSO AVAILABLE - THE EXECUTIVE Atlanta, GA 30342; (404) 423-9558, Fax (404) WATCH MOVEMENTS Thickly padded & stitched with rounded end, 458-2920. Just about anything you would need for Elgin, Hamilton, Omega, Longines, etc. Write wants Crocodile & Ostrich -· $22.50 to: Donald Kroker, 4325 N. 5th, Fresno, CA Send SASE for other selections CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, 93726. material and tools. Custom made to order or Send Check To: repair of gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog FOX ENTERPRISES $2.00. TANIENGJNEERING, Box338,Atwater, NEW FLOOR CLOCKS 4011 Daleview Ave., Seaford, New York 11783 OH 44201; (216) 947 -2268. Howard Miller and Ridgeway floor clocks, from OR CALL 516·781-5754 50-63% off. Howard Miller wall clocks, up to 53% off. Mel Taylor, A Time to Remember, P .O. WATCH REPAIR FOR TRADE. Large or small Box1007,Nashville, IN 47448. 1-800-267-7756 accounts. All types ofwatches. 25 years experi­ or (812) 988-8463. HAMILTON MILITARY MATERIAL. Many ence. Casciato Watch Repair, 62 Coraopolis parts available for 992B, 4992B, M23, M22 deck Rd., Coraopolis, PA 15108. Phone (412) 922- watch, M21 marine chronometer, brass hard­ 4397 or (412) 331-7684. EQUIPMENT: 18 Drawers from GS cylinder ware for boxes. Robert Ravel Co., Box 32, De­ crystal cabinet, OVER 1000 CRYSTALS! $100 von, PA 19333. Phone (610) 644-4272. +ship. Watchcleaningmachines: Watchmaster REPIVOTING ·balance staffs, pinions, arbors Mark V, $1195; Bulova VClO, $695; Watch­ master Mark II, $695; L&R Console Ultrasonic, for wrist and pocket watches. Do not replace BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! $395; Watchmaster WT, $350; Marshall 4-jar, original parts, let us repivot to manufacturer Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC, $99.95; Vibrograf watch timing machines: B- standards.JuliuszDabrowski,J.D. Watchworks H.C. 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301. 200A, $895; B-200; $795. Bestfit 1986 micro­ Co., 210 Post St., Suite 506, San Francisco, CA fiche system with viewer, $300. Send SASE for 94108; Phone: (415) 397-0310, Fax: (415) 397- our new 1995 equipment & hand tool list. 0601. Swiss-made automatic pinion cutting machine, Watches Etc., 5934 NW 39th, Oklahoma City, $375; L&RVari-matic, $450; Vari-matic parts; OK 73122; (405) 789-2824. VibrografMU700 Timer, $525; (918) 664-1076.

CLOCK WHEEL & PINION CUTTING FREE CROSSING OUT! 2-WEEK TURNAROUND ON MOST JOBS Send $3.00 for our new CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD SEND FOR PRICE LIST. MC & VISA clock supply catalog! CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL Jim DuBois, 330 Rte. 101 Timesavers Save time, money, and work re-covering Box 12700 Amherst, NH 03031 (603) 673-3645 Scottsdale, AZ 85267 bellows. Easler than replacing. For infor­ 602-4113-3711 mation, send business-size SASE to: JANDi GOGGIN Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175

ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE We are Factory Authorized Service for: * VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP SCHOHL MACHINE INC. * TICK-0-PRINT & L&R We service all makes of ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate FORMULA FOR PROFITS: recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. JACK PHILLIPS SCHOHL CRYSTAL ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE 1 MACHINE + BLANK + ~~~~IN. = Profits 757 Lincoln Ave., #26 San Rafael, CA 94901 Or 1 Fitted Fancy Shape Mineral Glass Crystal For Information Call (415) 453-9266 208 Barber Street • Spring Lake, Ml 49456 • (616) 842·6025 • Fax (616) 842·2198 Horological Times/December 1994 53 City College of San Francisco Watch Repair A complete selection of Training since 1938. In order to speak with the spare parts for the Instructor and at the same time register for the Golden Hour Clock class: Voice Mail (415) 731-0621. Open enroll­ MAYOR'S JEWELERS, LOCATED IN The Golden Hour Clock Co. ment throughout the semester. 106 Bartlett ATLANTA AND THROUGHOUT SOUTH 7745 East Redfield Road #500 St., Room 214, San Francisco, CA 94110. When FLORIDA, CURRENTLY HAS EXCELLENT Scottsdale, AZ. 85260 writing for information: CCSF Watch Repair OPPORTUNITIES AVAILABLE FOR QUALI­ 602-483-3711 Instructor, 2425 Yorba St., San Francisco, CA FIED WATCHMAKERS TO WORK ON THE 94116. WORLD'S FINEST TIMEPIECES. THE QUALIFIED CANDIDATE WILL HAVE Swiss maker of all kinds of cutters, Guye SA EXPERIENCE FROM QUARTZ TO COMPLI­ Fleurier catalog on request. For more informa­ JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL tion write or call: Jean Fischer, 3920 Green CATED MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS AND 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 11377 Point Ave., Sunnyside, L.l.C., NY 11104; (718) MUST BE FAMILIAR WITH ROLEX MOVE­ Phone(718)424-2929 729-1785. MENTS. GRADUATES OF RECOGNIZED Quallty Instruction Since 1945 WATCHMAKING SCHOOLS PREFERRED. MAYOR'S OFFERS AN EXCELLENT SALARY USED WATCH MOVEMENTS. H. HERB & WATCHMAKING AND BENEFITS PACKAGE INCLUDING SON, 908 RNA RIDGE DR., GREAT FALLS, (17months) PAID VACATIONS, HOLIDAYS, AND PROF­ VA 22066; (703) 549-8045. WATCH REPAIR IT SHARING, PLUS HEALTH, LIFE AND (9 and 13 months) DENTAL INSURANCE. FOR FURTHER JEWELRY DESIGN & REPAIR MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed INFORMATION, PLEASE CALL HUMAN lowest prices--as low as $2.30. Two-year guar­ Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation RESOURCES AT (800) 327-1580. EOE antee. Large selection of hands and numerals. Free delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. HALL CLOCKSHOP, 1512 Central Ave., Char­ lotte, NC 28205.

HELP WANTED TIMING MACHINES 11

WATCHMAKER wanted for full-time posi­ tion. Must be experienced with high-grade .,• •.• Watchmakel'.'/ watches, and must be able to perform clean professional work. We provide pleasant work­ Clockmaker ing conditions, a good salary and benefits with­ in our prestigious service center. Send resume *TIMETRAX600Wrlst&PocketWatch Timer: Tiffany & Co. has established a global reputation to Walter Gooden, 2050 Bundy Drive, Suite 290, Measures & displays watch trains in vibrations for its exclusive designs and products. We are Los Angeles, CA 90025; Phone (310) 820-5952, per hour, calculates gain or loss in sec/day. currently seeking a Watchmaker/Clockmaker for Fax (310) 820-3594. Over 40 preprogrammed trains: 7200-36000/ our expanding watch and clock service center. hr. Highly stable TCXOtlmebase. Complete w/ watch holder & pickups ...... $595 The successful candidate will have 3-5 years of WATCHMAKER-full-time,knowledgeablein *TIMETRAX 400 Clock Timer: Measures & experience, as well as experience repairing me­ repairs from antique to quartz. Some clock displays clock trains in vibrations per hour. chanical and quartz clocks. Formal horological experience would be a plus. BENCH JEWEL­ Extended timing range for 400-day & Atmos education is preferred. ER-experiencedin all phases ofjewelryrepair. clocks. Balance mode aids in setting move- Send resume to: AJS, P.O. Box 376, Washing­ ment in beat. Complete w/pickup ...... $395 Tiffany & Co. provides a competitive salary and ton, MO 63090. *TIMETRAX 160 Clock Timer/Beat Amplifier. benefits package. Ifinterested, pleasesendresume Battery powered, portable, direct train readout to: Staffing Department-CM, Tiffany & Co., 727 of beats per hour 100-19999, and new digital Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10022. An equal balance mode. Complete w/pickup ...... $159 opportunity employer. rMONEY-MONEY- - MONEY .. All units made in USA, 1 yr. warranty, complete WATCH REPAIR PEOPLE I with instructions & reference tables. Send 3 Share in our tradition of excellence. stamps for Info & our Catalog of Horological I Has your salary doubled in the last 3 years? I Literature & Timing Machines. I Are you losing ine-0me? I Up to $52,000+ per year ~ Adams Brown Co., Box 1, Cranbury NJ Tiffany & Co. I Please call (81 O) 358-9080 I ~ 08512 (609) 655-8269 Fax 655-8102 ·------· 54 Horological Times/December 1994 CLASSIFIED .ADS

WATCHMAKER for Boston, Warwick, RI and Rochester, NY areas to work in large depart­ WANTED Watches Wanted ment store for rapidly expanding company. Salary+ Bonus. Call Bob (510) 735-1128 or fax • Watches: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars resume to (510) 735-7405. Piguet, Vacheron, Lecoultre, IWC, Etc. Also Buying Low Grades--Gold-Filled & Gold (Hamilton, Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Etc.) • Sterling & Plated Trays, Dishes, Service Sets, Etc. W\NTED TO BUY • Scrap--Gold-Filled, Gold, Silver, Platinum, 11 II Watch Batteries (Silver or Mixed) We desperately need our retail ~~tt FREE 1-800-426-2344 customers' fine watches by: WANTED TO BUY: Rolex 180 set lever and SPECIALTY METALS Wittnauer 17Tbalancestaff(Bestfit 935). Phone Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, (210) 741-5502. REFINING COMPANY 10 Bay Street Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, Westport, CT 06880 Gubelin, etc. OMEGA wristwatches & chronographs, Longines chronographs. Call Matt 1-800-933- Members: Better BusinessBureau We are paying top prices for any high Jewelers Board of Trade 5562. quality, unusual or complicated Our 116th Consecutive Ad Ron Fried. President Wrist or Pocket Watches We pay 97% ofmarket for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment ALL WATCHES WANTED!!! Call Us Toll Free 1-800-842-8625 Breitling, Hamilton, Rolex, Movado, LeCoultre, return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: In Texas 1-214-902-0664 AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King Illinois, chronos, moonphases, asymmetricals, St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab­ railroads, etc. in any condition. Also buying Always prompt immediate payment! lished 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073. parts from any of the above or what have you. Derek Molnor, Vintage Time of Pgh., 1120 7th St., New Kensington, PA 15068; (412) 335- Wingate's Quality Watches P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 ANYTHING ILLINOIS 2320. Want to buy Illinois wristwatches, dials, move­ ments and cases (complete or parts) in any condition for avid private collector. Please call RETIRING, RETIRED, OR OTHERWISE. Buy­ WANTED: High-grade electro-mechanical 800-421-1968, x5520, Fax 714-725-9787 or mail ing watchmaker's large or small accumulations clocks, literature, and parts. Elliot Siegel, 930 to Fred Friedberg, do TAMS, P.O. Box 2068, of tools, materials, etc. Will travel east of the Broadway, Wassapequis, NY 11758; (516) 541- Tustin, CA92681-2068. Mississippi. Ken Waldhorn, (810) 399-3067. 2400.

WANTED: CHRONOGRAPH MOVE­ MENTS. Will pay: Valjoux 88 & 69, $300; 72C, 1 $150; 72 & 23, $125; 22, $75; 7733, $40; Venus 140 & 178, $100; 150, $50; split 179, $1500; WE RE INTERESTED IN YOUR Longines 13ZN & 13.33, $350; Movado 90 & 95, $350; Universal, $100-$1000; repeater move­ COLOR SLIDES ments, $100-$2000; Rolex movements, $100- $500. Will pay more for complete watches. Also want cases, dials, parts. Dean Sarnelle, 25 W. The American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute knows that there is a Beverley St., Staunton, VA 24401; Phone and wealth of talent in its membership and that this talent is not only in the field Fax (703) 885-6064. of horology. There is seldom a gathering of a group of watchmakers and clockmakers where a camera is not also there. WANTED: Will pay up to $500 for Rolex Easy Opener. Also need Rolex crystal press and Rolex movements, cases, dials, etc. We also buywatch­ Those of you who pride yourself in the beauty of your camera work can makers tools and equipment, pocket watches, possibly participate in having your own picture reproduced on the cover of and wristwatches. Single items or complete Horological Times. The covers of Horological Times are reproduced from collections. Watches Etc., 5934 N.W. 39th, Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824. color transparencies or slides. Remember, the format is scenery or nature and what you submit must be a color slide. Color photos are not acceptable.

WANTED: WATCH PARTS, If your color slide is used, you will receive an 8-1 /2 x 11 inch color photo. It MOVEMENTS & RELATED MATERIAL will be framed and sent to you for your enjoyment. Mail your color slide with Material House searching for parts, movements, etc. Small assortments to entire supply houses. description to: Horological Times, P .0. Box 11011, Dept. 31, Cincinnati, Please call Joe Griffin at Griffin Watch Co. OH 45211. All slides become the property of the American Watchmak­ 5 South Mast St., Goffstown, NH 03045 ers-Clockmakers Institute. (603) 497-2624

Horological Times/December 1994 55 SEEKING PROSPECTIVE CANDIDATES Ad Index FOR THE AWi BOARD OF DIRECTORS American Perfit Crystal Corp ...... 28 The committee involved with securing candidates to run for the AWI Board of Directors is seeking recommendations from the membership. If you Blue Ridge Machinery ...... 35 plan to suggest a possible candidate, please send that individual's name and background to: Mr. Wes Door, Chairman; Nominations for Board of Borel ...... 5 Directors Committee; AWi Central; 3700 Harrison Avenue; Cincinnati, OH 45211. Butterworth Clocks ...... 10 Each recommendation will be carefully considered by the committee. Can­ didates will be selected on the basis of their past local association or AWI Cas-Ker ...... inside back cover experience, geographical location, present job status, horological experi­ ence, and willingness to serve. Chronos ...... 17 Mr. Door must receive all recommendations before December 31, 1994 for them to be considered for the 1995 election. Esslinger ...... inside front cover

Gem City College ...... 8

Kaben Enterprises ...... 25 DATES SET FOR HISTORIC AWi MEETING S. LaRose, Inc ...... 25 Livesay's, Inc ...... 21 AWi's 35th Anniversary Annual Board Meeting will be held at the Draw­ bridge Estates from June 22-25, 1995. The preliminary schedule is be­ Maxell ...... 7 low. Watch for more information in coming issues of the Horological Times. This will be the biggest and most exciting annual meeting ever! McCaw ...... 3 Make your plans now to be here.

Thursday, June 22 Affiliate Chapter Delegate Reception & Round Table Newall Mfg ...... 47

Friday, June 23 Affiliate Chapter Meeting Pollak Watch Service, Inc...... 31 Riverboat Cruise Luncheon (spouses & families) AWi Headquarters Building Dedication & Grand S&G Industries ...... 31 Opening Celebration

Saturday, June 24 35th Annual Board of Directors Meeting SMEA ...... 23 Shopping Trip to Florence Mall (spouses & families) 35th Anniversary Dinner & Awards Banquet Twin City Supply ...... 9

Sunday, June 25 Board of Directors Meeting Concludes United Tool & Material Co ...... 29 Don't let this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity pass you by. Vibrograf ...... 15 Contact AWI Central now for a schedule of events and a no-obligation preregistration packet. What-i-use ...... \ ...... 11, 19

Witschi ...... 13 56 Horological Times/December 1994 • ~ GENERIC Case Tubes to fit Ro/ex GENERIC 5.3& 6.0mm GENERIC Crystal 00 Sapphire Assortment s& ea Crystals Includes Gasket to fit Ro/ex to fit Ro/ex #CKXR12 mJ Made From Pink Sapphire Like The Original 12 Crystals GENERIC Clutch Wheel #300* fits Rolex 206C $60 to fit Ro/ex Includes generic s29ss replacements for 2130 these crystals: #500* 1 - Tropic 12 saoo 1 - Cyclops 114 fits Rolex 295C 1 - Cyclops 116 2 - Cyclops 117 s34ss 3 - Cyclops 118 GENERIC *Gaskets Available 1 - Cyclops 129 Stems 2 - Cyclops 135 GENERIC 1 - Cyclops 145 to fit Ro/ex Case Back Refills $5 50ea 3035 3135 Gaskets We Have MOST 1570 1210 To fit OR 325-10, Plastic Crystals 210-74, 214-64, 302-86 to fitRolex s5ooea $J00ea

a. is "ndependant of and is not affiliated with or sponsored by Rolex Watch U.S.A. Inc. Cl.oes not apply to non-genuine replacement items supplied by Cas-Ker. 1995 AWi BENCH COURSES To register for these courses, please send with your request a registration fee of $50.00 per instruction day (AWi members) to: AWI Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited and will be selected by the EARLIEST POSTMARKS.You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard number, card expiration date, signature, and phone number. FAX (513) 661- 3131 -- INFORMATION (513) 661-3838

FEBRUARY 1995 APRIL 1995 10-13 Lathe Course (Phase III) Austin, TX 1-2 Basic Pocket Watch Repair Raleigh, NC 11-12 Repair of the Atmos Clock Phoenix, AZ 22-23 Cuckoo Clock Repair Raleigh, NC 12 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair San Francisco, CA 22-23 400-Day Clock Repair Savannah, GA 25-26 400-Day Clock Repair Baltimore, MD 29-30 Repair of the Atmos Clock Sault Ste. Marie, MI

MARCH 1995 MAY 1995 4-5 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair SanFrancisco,CA 6-7 Hairspring Vibrating Philadelphia, PA 5 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair Raleigh, NC 12-14 Mechanical Watch Repair Denver, CO 10-13 Lathe Course (Phase III) Denver, CO 11-12 Basic Pocket Watch Repair Austin, TX JUNE 1995 25-26 Hairspring Vibrating Springfield, IL 3-4 Cuckoo Clock Repair Minneapolis, MN 25-26 Introduction to Clock Repair Raleigh, NC

COURSES & INSTRUCTORS Introduction to Clock Repair Striking Clocks Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW John Nagle

Advanced Clock Repair Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair The WatchfClockmakers Lathe Course Roland Iverson, CMC Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW Roy Hovey Phase I: Basic Theory, Tools and Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Mechanical Chronographs Accessories for the Robert Bishop, CMEW James Lubic Watch/Clockmakers Lathe Phase II: Making Wheels, Function Basic Pocket Watch Mechanical Watch Repair Control Arbors and Lantern Alice Carpenter, CMW, CMEW James Lubic Pinions Phase III: Making Staffs, Jewel Settings Cuckoo Clock Repair Modem Mechanical Chronographs, for Watches and Marine James Williams, CC Remy Waelchli Chronometers, Turning Between Centers, and the Jacot 400-Day Clock Repair Repair of the Atmos Clock Tool John Nagle Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI Phase IV: Making Wheels/Pinions and Use of the Pivot Polishing Hairspring Vibrating Servicing ET A Quartz Chronographs Accessory Joseph Cerullo, CMW, CMC James Broughton, CMEW, FA WI

1995 AWi PROJECT EXTEND CLASSES Project Extend classes are held in Cincinnati, OH. To register for these courses, please send with your request a registration fee of $50.00 per instruction day (AWi members) to: AWI Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. You may register by fax if you wish; if so, please include your Visa or MasterCard number, card expiration date, signature, and phone number. FAX (513) 661-3131 INFORMATION (513) 661-3838

FEBRUARY 1995 MAY 1995 6-10 Beginning Horology James Lubic 1-5 Watch II (Staffing & Lever Escapement) James Lubic 13-17 Machine Shop Practices RonDeCorte 8-12 Clock I (Beginning Clock Repair) Jim LaChapelle 15-19 Clock Case Repair Jim Williams MARCH 1995 20-Apr. 1 Lathe Course (12 days) Roy Hovey JUNE 1995 5-9 Quartz I (Meter Reading, etc.) Gerald Jaeger APRIL 1995 12-16 Quartz II (Advanced Quartz) Bob Bishop 24-28 Watch I (American Pocket Watches) Alice Carpenter