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FREE Information Available *Quartz Movements* Crystals & Fittings* *~~~~.SO·~ ~ St. Paul, MN. 55164 * Resale Merchandise * Findings * Stones * Tools & Supplies * VOLUME 13, NUMBER 4 APRIL 1989 CONVENTIONAL VS. LOGIC HOROLOGICAL REGULATION 12

I Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute

ROBERT F. BISHOP PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE ~J 2 I JOE CROOKS BENCH TIPS 6 Recording Your Problems

HENRY B. FRIED QUESTIONS & ANSWERS ®H I 8 Is This the Real Thing?

MICHAEL COSBY WATCHES INSIDE & OUT 12 Logic Regulation

JAMES ADAMS NOVICE WATCHMAKER 18 Introduction to Watchmaker Electronics Part 1

WES DOOR SHOPTALK 22 Retrofitting Quartz to Pocket Sizes, Part 1 HENRY B. FRIED 24 RESERVE POWER INDICATORS ARCHIE B. PERKINS TECHNICALLY WATCHES 24 28 Antique Watch Restoration, Part XL

FRED S. BURCK HARDT ROCK QUARRY 32 How to Hold Your Audience

JOHN A. NAGLE HODGE PODGE LODGE UPCOMING 34 Tips From a Friend BENCH COURSES LEO A. JAROS LAW CLOCK TROUBLESHOOTING 36 A Diagnostic Systems Approach, Part Six 33 MARSHALL F. RICHMOND PICKLE BARREL 38 Remounting Rings, Part 3

HENRY B. FRIED BOOK REVIEWS 40 1.W.C. International Watch Co ., Schaffhausen DEPARTMENTS British Skeleton Clocks Bracelet Adjusting & Sizing (video) Bulletin Board/14

THOMAS H. WHITE AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN Forum/27 44 Strengthening Our Roots AWi Bench Courses/33 Association News/45 New Products/46 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for $40.00 per year ($4.50 News in the Trade/48 per copy in the United States and $50.00 per year; $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.l. Second class Classified Ads/49 postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/52 Advertisers' I ndex/52 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24 hours, recording). George Daniels c;-;JttOROLOGICAL(';J'" Henry B. Fried * FELLOWS * Josephine F. Hagans OF THE AMERICAN Orville R. Hagans u Dc:J[J~ Robert A. Nelson WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Hamilton E. Pease EXECUTIVE AND EDITORIAL OFFICES Milton C. Stevens AWi Central Marvin E. Whitney P.O. Box 11011 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 Spring is the time for the grass to start growing, Milton C. Stevens: Interim Editor gardens to be planned and planted, and a myriad Michael P. Danner: Interim Editor of other tasks to be done to prepare for the sum­ Regina Stenger: Associate Editor mer season. Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor Donna Baas: Production Director Spring is an important time for our membership, also. The annual election of Directors and any Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager other business to be brought before the members Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager occurs at this time. This year the ballot is espe­ Mildred Howard: Circulation cially important. Not only are there many worthy candidates for Director on the ballot, but you will TECHNICAL EDITORS: be asked to approve or disapprove several amend­ ments to the Constitution. James Adams Wes Door Robert F. Bishop Henry B. Fried Our Constitution has served us well for many years, but, like most other James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman Constitutions, some areas of confusion have developed and some glitches Fred S. Burckhardt Robert A. Nelson here and there have caused some of us to propose some housekeeping changes. Edgar "Nick" Cleves Archie B. Perkins Also, and most important, are the amendments establishing the Perpetuation Steven G. Conover Marshall F. Richmond Fund Committee. I will not dwell on the details of this and the other pro­ Joe Crooks Marvin E. Whitney posals submitted for your approval; they will be well explained on the ballot material. I do want to say this: AWi is operated for the benefit of the mem­ AW/ OFFICERS: bers by a small group of dedicated people who have the interests of the mem­ bers at heart, but we do require the guidance of all of the membership from Robert F. Bishop, CEWS: President time to time in order to best serve those members. Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CEWS: 1st V. President Wes Door, CMW: Secretary This guidance can take many forms. Letters, personal contact, polls and Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer surveys are all important But the annual elections are most important, be­ cause at this time you have the opportunity to choose your future leaders AWi DIRECTORS: and indicate your approval or disapproval on special issues.

James Adams, CMW Less than 35% of our members have returned ballots over the last five years. James H. Broughton, CEWS This participation is far too low to indicate the true opinions of the member­ Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CEWS ship. On some issues, every member that fails to vote casts a "no" vote. So Henry Frystak, CMW I ask you: Take the ten minutes or so to study the ballot, choose the can­ Ewell D. Hartman, CMW didates you feel best represent your interests, and vote your approval or dis­ Donald R. Loke approval on the other issues. Follow the instructions carefully. The last bal­ Ben Matz, CMW lot, which returned the number of Directors to 15, resulted in several hun­ Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS, FAWI dred invalid ballots because they were sent to the AWi office instead of the Marshall F. Richmond, CMW election accountant.

Thomas H. White: Affiliate Chapter Director Spend the twenty-five cents for the stamp. Members have very few duties, Dwight Tubb: Research and Education but this is one of them. DO IT! Council Director William Biederman, CMW: Past President

Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director

Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without per­ mission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copy ON THE COVER: This Spring crocus was photographed by Laurence R. King of Sidney, right©1989 by the American Watchmakers Institute. New York.

2 Horological Times/April 1989 APRIL MOVEMENT SPEC/Al$ BUY TWO OR MORE MOVEMENTS OF THE SAME CALIBER AND SAVE! 3572 202.001 PUW211 578.004 SUB FOR 978.002/ 578.002 ••

~ 1 Piece ..... $15.95 1 Piece ..... $24.95 1 Piece ..... $29.95 1 Piece ..... $14.95 2 or more.$13.95ea 2 or more $22.95ea 2 or more $27. 95ea 2 or more $12.95ea

3N20 2030 Y588 FE 6820 SUB FORY590

1 Piece ..... $13.95 1 Piece ..... $12.95 1 Piece ..... $13.95 1 Piece ..... $12.95 2 or more $11.95ea 2 or more $10.95ea 2 or more $11.95ea 2 or more $10.95ea

V237 V238 PUWSOO PUW510 SUB FOR V230/V232 SUB FORY231

1 Piece ..... $13.95 1 Piece .. ... $13.95 1 Piece ...... $15.95 1 Piece .... $15.95 2 or more $11.95ea 2 or more $11.95ea 2 or more $13.95ea 2 or more $13.95ea

QUARTZ ANALOG MOVEMENTS

$14.95 ARM 32003 $15.95 HQ 875 $15.95 PUW 532 $29.95 ESA 400.101 $13.95 HQ 1035 $15.95 PUW 801 $13.95 ESA 400.111 $13.95 HQ 1075 $15.95 PUW 900 $1 3.95 ESA 450.101 $15.95 HQ 3572 $15.95 PUW 910 $16.95 ESA 555.412 $15.95 HQ 3672 SUBHQ762 PUW 920 $11 .95 SUBPUW920 HQ 3772 $15.95 REMEX 1910 ESA 556.112/5 $15.95 ESA 561.001 $15.95 HQ 3773 $15.95 REMEX HP 6060 $1 5.95 ESA 561 .101 $15.95 HQ 3975 $15.95 REMEX HP 6653 $13.95 ESA 578.001 SUB578.004 HQ R1177 $15.95 REMEX HP 6870 $13.95 $14.95 ISA 1198 $13.95 REMEX HP 6871 ESA 578.004 $15.95 ESA 581.001 $29.95 MIYOTA 2020/25 $12.95 REMEX HP6881 $15.95 $15.95 MIYOTA 2030/35 $12.95 RICO 580 ESA 927.001 SUBV237 ESA 927.101 $14.40 MIYOTA2Y50 SUB2Y51 PULSARV230 SUBV238 SUB 555.415 MITOTA2Y51 $14.95 (SUB FOR 2Y50) PULSARV231 ESA 928.411 $13.95 (SUB FORV235) $15.95 MIYOTA3N20 $13.95 PULSARV234 ESA 935.102 SUBV234 $15.95 MIYOTA3T10 $16.95 PULSARV235 ESA 935.312 SUBV239 $15.95 OAIENT4GA $13.95 PULSARV236 ESA 955.111 $13.95 (SUB FORV230/V232) $15.95(HR./MIN. ONLY) ORIENT4GB $13.95 PULSARV237 ESA 955.111 $13.95 (SUB FORV231) ORIENT4GU $14.95 PULSARV238 ESA 955.412 SUBPUW241 $13.95 (SUB FOR V236) $15.95 ORIENT5FA $14.95 PULSARV239 ESA 960.111 $14.95 $15.95 ORIENT5FB $14.95 PULSAR Y120A ESA 965.112 $14.95 SUB 578.004 ORIENT5FU $15.95 PULSARY121 ESA 978.002 $9.95 $15.95 PUW 211 $29.95 PULSARY480 FE 6320 $9.95 $12.95 PUW 241 $15.95 (SUBFOR955.415) PULSARY481 FE 6820 $11 .95 $24.95 PUW 256 $29.95 PULSARY482 FHF 202.001 $14.95 $29.95 PUW 432 $13.95 PULSARY573 HANOOK820 $13.95 (SUB FOR Y590) $15.95 PUW 500 $15.95 PULSARY588 HQ 672 $17.95 HQ 782 $15.95 PUW 510 $15.95 PULSARY652 PULSARY853 $17.95 UP FRONT

NEW JERSEY Henry F rystak WI Directors are elected at large and thus represent fi RHODE ISLAND 830 N. Wood Avenue all members at AWi meetings. Each year the Presi- CONNECTICUT Linden, NJ 07036 dent assigns specific areas of membership to a particular per- son as their area of responsibility. VIRGINIA Ewell D. Hartman WEST VIRGINIA 4805 Jan Road Richmond, VA 23231 IN DIANA James Adams ILLINOIS 21 Public Square MAINE Donald R. Loke MISSOURI Shelbyville, IN 46176 NEW HAMPSHIRE 4 Byran Terrace Drive VERMONT Greenwich, CT 06831 WISCONSIN William Biederman IOWA 107 S. Water St. KANSAS Sparta, WI 54656 MASSACHUSETTS Ben Matz NEBRASKA NEW YORK 3208 168th Street Flushing, NY 11358 PENNSYLVANIA Robert F. Bishop CANADA 132 Ida Drive MINNESOTA Robert Nelson INTERNATIONAL Glenshaw, PA 15116 NORTH DAKOTA 5026 Portland Avenue SOUTH DAKOTA Minneapolis, MN 55417 COLORADO OHIO James H. Broughton WYOMING MICHIGAN 4443 Janice Marie Blvd. Columbus, OH 43207 ARKANSAS Marshall F. Richmond KENTUCKY Rt. 2, Box 228C TENNESSEE Milan, IN 47031 NORTH CAROLINA Alice B. Carpenter SOUTH CAROLINA P.O . Box 147 TEXAS Dwight Tubb Tarboro, NC 27886 OKLAHOMA Box 23 LOUISIANA Dike, TX 75437 ALABAMA Buddy Carpenter NEW MEXICO GEORGIA P.O. Box 147 FLORIDA Tarboro, NC 27886 ARIZONA Thomas H. White MISSISSIPPI CALIFORNIA 3220 W. Kimberly Way HAWAII Phoenix, AZ 85027 NEVADA ALASKA Wes Door UTAH IDAHO 2214 W. 4th Avenue OREGON Kennewick, WA 99336 DELAWARE Marvin E. Whitney MONTANA MARYLAND 1209 Cedar Dale Lane WASHINGTON DISTRICT OF Alwxandria, VA 22308 COLUMBIA

Josephine Hagans wishes to express her heartfelt thanks to the many AWI members who expressed their condolences in the form of cards, letters, and flowers in remembrance of her late husband, Orville R. Hagans. She deeply appreciates the kindness of so many, and finds that it would be difficult to answer all of them. The outpouring of thoughtfulness was a real comfort to her, and she will always be grateful.

4 Horological Times/April 1989 FITTING NEW CROWNS TO VINTAGE ROLEX WATERPROOF WATCHES

By Robert Mohr

he vintage wristwatch known as the Rolex Oyster the usual procedure for fitting Rolex crowns and case tubes is an interesting early waterproof watch. Rolex is followed . The tap size of the old stem may have to be T is famous for its Oyster case, an invention having changed, using the lathe and dies, in order for the stem to fit a screw-on crown and case back. The term bubbleback is the new crown. also used referring to the high-domed, bubble-shaped case The old Rolex crowns were slightly smaller and back that accommodated the automatic movements. different in shape with the words "Rolex Oyster" stamped on A common repair for this watch is a worn case them. So some Rolex purists out there may not like the switch tube and crown. The threads are worn and the crown and over to a modern crown. I talk to the owner about this first, case tube no longer securely screw together. Wear should be naturally. It's better to have a functioning crown that protects expected since some of these watches date back to the 1920s. the watch and looks presentable. The problem is that it is difficult or impossible to It is going to get harder to find parts for these older obtain original case parts. The first models used different watches, so I advise anyone owning one to wear their watch (larger) thread sizes compared to current models. I know it is with care. It isn't wise to subject the old Rolex cases to the preferable to restore a vintage watch with original material, same treatment as a modern Rolex, even after the replacement but most of us will not have that choice due to a lack of of the crown. When the customer pays for this kind of repair sources for these old parts. they probably won't want to press their luck either. A new Rolex crown can be successfully fitted to I admire the quality and style of the old vintage these old cases. What it takes to do a good job is careful wristwatches. These can be the most interesting and profitable planning and skill with a lathe, taps, and dies. The old worn repairs if you "look before you leap" into it. A good repair case tuoe screws out of the case just like the modern ones; plan and the right tools can do the job, even for a vintage however, the challenge is replacing it with a modern case Rolex. tube of smaller thread size. The trick is to fit a brass bushing either by friction FIGURE 1 or screwing in depending on the condition of the case. I prefer Old Case making a brass bushing that screws into the case. Before doing Brass Bushing this, thread the inside of the bushing so that it will receive (Threaded Inside/out) the new case tube (Figure 1). I use the lathe with the chuck holding tailstock while doing all this to insure neat, accurate work. If the brass bushing is turned/drilled accurately outside I and inside, then your threading will be done that much easier. ~ The situation and condition of the case you're working with will vary, so I can't offer exact numbers or sizes. I keep a •t • New Crown variety of Rolex crowns and case tubes in the smaller sizes, New ICase Tube which aids in proper selection and actual work. Remember to keep the size of the new crown in proportion with the case. The 6. mm diameter size, in steel or gold, will be appropriate in most cases. After the brass bushing is fitted to the case,

April 1989/Horologi.cal Times 5 r>enc.h Tips

Joe Crooks

RECORDING YOUR PROBLEMS /

This tip is from Frank J. Ferrara of Bradenton, Florida. adjusting the volume control to a low level, I simply place it close to the clock I am testing and it automatically records he enclosed photo shows the type of miniature tape the sound-sequence of that individual clock. Then I am able to T recorder that I use in my clock repair department. review the audible portion as it actually occurred without the This voice-activated microcassette recorder eliminates the silent time intervals between the striking portion. This there­ frustration when final testing a ship's bell, chiming or strik­ fore becomes an excellent testing aide because the recorder ing mechanisms-even when away from the shop area. By shuts itself off automatically whenever there is an absence of sound. I find I can test an entire 12 hours of chiming or strik­ ing in less than ten minutes.

The reason I'm publishing Frank's tip is because it's so un­ usual. Whoever heard of a tip to record your mistakes? I have found out that if you can make a clock strike correctly at one and twelve, the rest of the hours will be OK. That is, on chime clocks-but the ship's bell striking is a horse of a different color. It's liable to strike any wrong time. This Sony advertisement is from Sears, and I'm sure it's less than $69.95 with their new markdown on prices. Or you may find one for less at other discount houses. I'm going to buy one of these amazing little re­ corders just to show my wife she does snore. Be happy I Live dangerously I

ONLY 569:i, plus S4.9'1 s/\lpplng SEND YOUR TIPS TO: Jingle Joe, AWi Central, and handling. 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211.

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6 Horologi.cal Times/April 1989 Nominees for Upcoming Election

is time to cast yom ballot for seven new members outcome. of the AWI Board of Directors from the 12 candi­ All ballots returned must be postmarked on or I dates pictured below. Those selected will join the before the deadline date which appears in the voting instruc­ current members of the Board of Directors during the annual tions. Only marked ballots should be sent to the certified AWi meeting June 24-25, 1989. They will select the AWi public accountant. Please do not include any notes or requests officers for the coming year from within their ranks. Five of for information. The CPA must hold all ballots he receives the new directors will serve for a three-year term and two for a until sometime after July 1. AWi would be unable to answer two-year term. any extra messages until that time. During the month of April the ballots, a background The future of AWI depends upon the quality of the sketch of each candidate, and the voting instructions will people who serve on the Board of Directors, the officers, be mailed first class to each active member who is eligible and the members of AWI committees. Please take the time to vote. Ballots should be marked and returned in the official to study the qualifications of each candidate carefully. Vote ballot return envelope to the certified public accountant for those whom you think will insure the continued success who is responsible for counting the votes and certifying the of AWi.

JAMES H. BROUGHTON FREDS.BURCKHARDT ALICE B. CARPENTER JOSEPH L. CERULLO Columbus, OH Ft. Worth, TX Tarboro, NC Cranford, NJ

JERRY M. FUGICH CLARENCE E. HARDY GERHARD HUTTER GERALD G. JAEGER Yelm, WA Roanoke, VA Palm Beach, FL Sheboygan, WI

·~ ~ 1•11 "' ROBERT L. MACOMBER MARSHALL"'" F. RICHMOND PAUL D. WADSWORTH MARVIN E. WHITNEY Prescott, AZ Milan, JN Hilton, NY Alexandria, VA

April 1989/Horological Times 7 Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC

Is This the Real ThingP

I enjoy your "Questions and anything that could associate it as being Q Answers" in the Horological cased in England. There is a very clear Times very much. It is usually casemark inside both covers. I was the first contribution I turn to each unable to find anything that faintly month when I receive my copy. Your resembled it in my list of London hall­ article on the "mixed" watch in the marks. Also, if this case is gold, I'll August 1988 issue aroused more than sure be surprised. It looks more like usual interest, for my first thought copper with the inner dust cover having was 'where did they get a picture of my a very distinct brass look. watch?' I was prompted to hunt it up, for it had been laid back for the last 20 to 25 years. I became curious as to its probable age and origin.

The Movement: While at first glance, the picture of Mr. Wilkerson's watch would pass for mine, closer scru­ tiny reveals the following differences. It's Here. In the picture I notice the finger bridge over the 4th wheel and the escape wheel are slightly lower than the bridges over It's Free. the center and third wheels. In my move­ ment only the finger bridge over the There is also the number 85520 escape wheel is lower by about 1/8 inch, appearing on the inside of all three the others being 'level.' The dust sleeve covers. On the inside of the dust cover is surrounding the winding arbor is attached also the number 18622. On the outside of with four screws instead of the two as the dust cover is the only indication any­ shown in the picture. My watch is a where as to where it might have been 6 jewel, cylinder escapement instead of manufactured. It simply says 'European the 'Patent Lever - Full Jewelled' as Watch Co.' in fancy script engraving, indicated on Mr. Wilkerson's watch. and below that 'Geneva.' The balance wheel in mine is also a three­ The case construction seems spoke, annular rim not being tempera­ identical to that of Mr. Wilkerson's ture compensated. My movement is watch. The dial cover is hinged at the 'going' other than having a broken staff nine o'clock position. The back cover and the hairspring being broken off right and dust cover are both hinged 120 at the stud. Is it possible to purchase degrees going to the left, or at the seven a replacement balance staff or would o'clock dial position. It is circular grained Name this have to be custom made? and differs in appearance only with the The Dial: My dial is a single floral design at three and nine o'clock on sunk, plain white one with no name both covers. The back cover has a bull's­ Address whatsoever. The second hand sink is eye in the center rather than the shield State about 16mm in diameter with only as shown in the accompanying photo.

Phone the 15, 30, 45 and 60 being marked. Any help at all will be greatly It appears to be exactly like the pic­ appreciated. ®O t SINGE 1923 DJ/pt. lfTO'( ture. Willard Kiser l)lVM INC. 9 ~1X~~ The Case : There is no mention Ironton, OH of London, no London hallmarks, or (Please tum to page 10)

8 Horological Times/April 1989 World's Strongest .llttrel SPRING BAR The BOREL 100% Stainless Steel Spring Bar is the world's strongest spring bar. It guarantees peace of mind three ways: e The body and tips are far stronger than others. Very important on the new thin styles. •The spring is heavy duty, exerting far more holding pressure. 100% e 1t keeps its strength because it is immune to corrosion. STAINLESS DOUBLE SHOULDER The Borel Spring Bar System No. 267 features 40 dozen STEEL 1/4 <=> Borel Stainless Steel Spring Bars in four types: Double S/16 c:> Shoulder, Double Flange, Thin and Special (for buckles 318 ~ in metal bands). They're put up in a professional cabinet 7116 •4 ¢• with 24 jumbo size bottles. An intregrated chart gives 112 --· .. full description of contents, p1us bottle position. 9116 «* ·- 518 acm:lC:::==Ciapoo You 'll find a Spring Bar in this assortment for nearly 11 116 cciC::==:J'>I> every need. Greater quantity is supplied of most popular sizes: 5/a", 11/rn", 3f4''. 3,4 ce==~ 13116 'illl·C:::::==~~ 718 oe.e1c:====-i.i Spring Bar Asst. 267/40 DOUBLE FLANGE 518 c4:$ ** 11116 ...e~=-* New Ultra·Thin Stainless Steel 314 *•:t::::!!:=+=+= 13/16 cs:c:=====-= 7/8 csi:::e:==::==::s= auc:r. SPRING BAR THIN1.5mm These spring bars are used in many 1/2 ~~II:= new watches where band fits close to 9/16 =!!!!!!!!!!!:=-:::= ULTRA-THIN STAINLESS STEEL the case. This assortment contains 66 51'. 8~~~= bars, 6 each of 11 sizes, in a 11116 IK::l!!!~~i=::m 314 ~~!!!!!!!!is::= 1/4 ~ small partitioned plastic box. 13116 IS:::!~!!!!!!!!!!:IB::JD 5/16 ~ Replaces many of the Seiko type spring bars. Refills available. 318 -==- SPECIAL BUCKLE No. 20 7 /16 -=- MK-800/66 s11.95 518 Ill ~ 1/2 --c:===--- 9/16 --c==-- NOW... YOU CAN ALWAYS HAVE THE 5l8 -c;;::::==::)-- RIGHT "CURVED" SPRING BAR, TOO! Just use the BOREL-TEC Spring Bar Curving Gun. 11/16 ---====-- Curving Gun, Pick out the right straight Borel spring bar, place only .. . 314 __.c:;:. ===>-- it in the curving gun and pull the trigger. You're SBCG .... s19.95 in business. No need to stock curved spring bars. 13/16 --c:::===>..... Order the BOREL-TEC Spring Bar Curving Gun and the Borel #267 Stainless Steel Spring Bar 718 -===:::::>- BEFORE Assortment, as described above. A $74.95 value. AFTER And pay only $69.95

Jules Borel & Company, National Order Desk - 1-800-333-4646 1110 Grand Ave., Kansas City, Mo. 64106 Borel & Frei, National Order Desk - 1 ·800·654·9591 .llttrel 712 South Olive, Los Angeles, CA 90014 .llttrel Otto Frei - Jules Borel, National Order Desk - 1 ·800·772-3456 P.O. Box 796, Oakland, CA 94604 The repair and diagnosis of QUESTIONS & ANSWERS quartz clocks is the same as for (Continued from page 8) fi watches. The exceptions are the so-called 40-day clocks and those with I have examined your letter chimes. and the very good sketch. There I am in the midst of further fi are two things here that say "playing around" with these to discover something "fishy. " I believe the watch some patterns and repair ideas. The was the old method of selling something 400-day clocks require the same as not just pure, to say the least. watches but tests are required for power Firstly, the name European consumption on the drain of the pendu­ Watch Company on a cheap watch is lum maintaining systems (too much very suspicious. That is the proper name drag, too much reserve power on the of the old company owned and operated clutch system feeding the pendulum by the Parisian branch of the Cartier escapement, not enough clutch action, family. They used these excellent quality etc.). movements in their early watches, thus On the musical or chiming this must be considered as a counter[eit clocks the movements are basic but product. the addition of the chimes is an inclusion Secondly is the hallmark of of a special chip. For repairs when the the cross-typed crown with the term chiming is off, look for damage to the DOUB. This is a section of France that setting or chiming buttons and their con­ Unimat3 wanders (its river) into Switzerland. nections. Since discrete chips are un­ I have searched through my available (as yet), a new unit is in order. Mills• Drills many volumes on trademarks and hall­ marks for silver, gold and platinum, Tums•Polishes taking considerable time with it. No­ I have two pocket watch move­ where in any of these books did I come ments in my possession that across anything closely resembling this Q I am trying to get some infor- distinct symbol. Daubs isn't listed in any mation on. of these books as having a hallmark The first is an 18 size Columbus ofany kind. Key Wind S/N 20,624. The dial says Thirdly, real eighteen karat Ohio, Columbus Watch Co. There are gold, in such a watch, is stamped . 750 in eleven jewels. There is nothing on the a box and not "18K" which sometimes plates that says Columbus Watch Co. is also included when the product is The only thing on the plates is the meant specifically for US. export. serial number, pat. pending, and Colum­ In some instances where the bus, OH. The balance cock and plates are case is gold but thin, the cuvette (inside obviously Columbus. I am confused by dust cover) is copper and often, when the absence of the name on the plates. honest, is stamped so. The second is a Swiss movement The watch to which you com­ around 16 size. The plates are marked pare it is probably superior with the lever Concord W. Co., Stauffer, Swiss, fifteen escapement. So you see counterfeits jewels, three adj. The dial says 8 days, aren't new, they've been around faking Tiffany & Co. The movement is stem names since 16 90 when Tompion 's name wind and set. was put on cheaper versions of his master­ Any information on either of pieces. these watches will be greatly appreciated. George V. Carr Watchmaker Accessories Defiance, OH I am studying your book Re­ pairing Quartz Watches. I have Q stopped repairing watches and Your Columbus watch was the I'm concentrating on clock repair. The first run of this model ( 1883) new quartz multi chime movements are with Ohio-made parts. A photo worthy of repair. fi of your movement would have allowed Is this practical and what is the me to tell you more. best tester for this purpose? Two are The Concord 8-day was made by mentioned in your book, but you don't Call or Write for FREE Catalog Septima in Switzerland around 1925. It is make a choice as the best for the money. a well-made movement and has been used hobby products co. Is there a special test for the by other quality makers who put their quartz clock movements? If so, please names on the dials. A Division of Emco Maier Corporation advise. P.O. Box 218117 Dept. HT Henry B. Fried Columbus OH 43221-8117 6141771-5996 Orville D. Pope Montgomery, AL

10 Horological Times/April 1989 Recap on Phoenix Seminar A good crowd was on hand for AWi's First Regional Seminar held in Phoenix, Arizona on February 12, 1989. Below are some of the highlights of that seminar.

President Robert Bishop presided over the noon Horology -instructor at Milwaukee Area Technical College and pioneer luncheon. in the field of quartz watch repair instruction, Gerald G. Jaeger pre­ sented "Stepping Motors, Quartz and Circuits."

Henry B. Fried gave a presentation on rare and un­ This country's leading authority on chronome­ Robert Nelson, who has been study­ usual escapements he had encountered. ters and military timepieces, Marvin E. Whitney ing the watch escapement, offered presented "The Naval Observatory: How Time new ideas to help in the repair of Tells Us Where in the World We Are." these timepieces easier.

Some of the attendants at the seminar.

April 1989/Horological Times 11 WATCHE~

Michael Cosby, CMW, CMC, CEWS, CMBHI

Logic Regulation

he quartz watch has one characteristic which makes deleted if it is gaining. The following drawing demonstrates it stand apart from all other watch technologies-its the second type of correction. T extreme accuracy. Manufacturers often claim an annual error of less than two minutes. This accuracy is some­ times difficult to achieve because of the trimmer capacitor usually provided for regulation. Much like the tailless regulator used on many mechanical calibres, the nature of the design makes it a challenge to obtain the correction you want with­ SUBTRACTED Il'IPULSE out overshooting the point. Add to this fault that the correc­ tion is not proportional to the rotation of the trimmer, that the direction to turn it is not known without trial, that a nonmetallic tool is required, that the rate once obtained is The amount of correction provided depends on two susceptible to drifting either fast or slow, and it may be seen factors. The first is the step in the divider chain at which the that the trimmer falls short of being the ideal regulating correction takes place. The closer the step is to the output, device. the greater the result will be. The second factor is the interval The industry's answer to these objections to the between the corrections. The shorter the interval, the greater trimmer capacitor is to eliminate it in the oscillating circuit. will be the correction. The following chart demonstrates Instead of changing the frequency of the quartz crystal and these effects. This then is logic regulation, so called because it the oscillating circuit, the approach now is to regulate the depends on the logic operations in the integrated circuit. apparent rate of the watch within the integrated circuit, specifically within the divider chain. Compare the following STEP 2 SECOND INTERVAL 10 SECOND INTERVAL diagrams. 32768 Hz 0.66 s/d 0.13 s/d CONVENTIONAL REGULATION

• FREQl£NCY 16384 Hz 1.32 s/d 0.26 s/d DIVIDER 8912 Hz 2.64 s/d 0.52 s/d 4096 Hz 5.27 s/d 1.04 s/d LOGIC REGUlATION It is necessary for the watch repairer to know if a watch being regulated employs logic regulation or not. If a watch using logic regulation is treated as one regulated only by a trimmer capacitor and is placed on an acoustic pickup, no change will be seen as the adjustment is made. The fre­ The rate at which the counters and decoder-drivers quency of the oscillating circuit remains constant and that is change the display of a digital watch depends on the number what the timing equipment will indicate. This is because the of impulses provided by the oscillating circuit and the divider regulation provided is not part of the oscillating circuit and the chain. Similarly the rate at which the rotor turns in an analog pickup is responding to the quartz crystal which remains watch is directly dependent on the number of impulses re­ unchanged. ceived from the dividers. Additional impulses are added To determine the rate of a watch with logic regula­ if the oscillating circuit has a losing rate or impulses are tion it is necessary to use a pickup which will detect the out-

12 Horological Times/April 1989 put of the circuit after the corrections have been made in the integrated circuit. In the case of digital watches, an elec­ tric field pickup should be used which will sense the 32 hertz NOW!! usually supplied to the liquid crystal display. As many seg­ ments as possible should be displayed while determining the rate. Analog watches require a magnetic or inductive pickup. 2 WAYS TO MAKE This will detect the magnetic field around the coil of the motor. The gate time should be 10 seconds in most cases as it is the same as or a multiple of the interval between logic correc­ LIFE EASIER!! tions. If in doubt about whether a watch has logic regulation Two assortments designed to aid the jeweler or not (and it is not always obvious), simply treat it as if it and watchmaker who sells and services Seiko, does. Obtain the rate from the display or motor. Pulsar and Lorus watches. No need to order a If the rate of a watch with logic regulation has been stem and/or crown when a watch is brought determined to be unacceptable, that is it falls beyond the in for repair. The cost of these assortments manufacturer's specifications, the procedure varies. Quartz represents a savings of almost 50% of factory listed material prices. SAVE!! an additional watches fall into two groups-those with some method of 10% when purchasing both assortments at the regulation and those with no such provision. Watches in the same time. Cost for both - $97.00. latter group are usually corrected by replacing the circuit. The repairer may decide instead to replace just the quartz crystal with a slightly faster or slower one. Watches provided with a method of adjustment vary in design. Some have a trimmer capacitor as part of the oscillating circuit as well as logic regulation. Others, primarily some Seiko calibres, have a rotary step switch associated directly with the logic regulation. The drawing below shows a rotary switch which provides a change of 0. 7 seconds per day for each division it is turned. STEM ASSORTMENT #4010 FOR SEIKO - PULSAR - LOR US - $47.95 Contains two each of the most popular stems ROTARY STEP SWITCH covering over 100 models. 24 bottle leatherette cabinet contains 48 stems (2 per model).

CROWN ASSORTMENT #8501 FOR SEIKO - PULSAR - LORUS - $59.95 Contains two each of the most popular crowns covering over 30 models. 24 bottle leatherette cabinet contains 40 crowns (2 per model), 4 empty bottles for expansion. ray gaber co. A number of other manufacturers have developed 800 PENN AVE.e PITTSBURGH, PA 15222 e 412/281-4323 unique approaches to regulation, some of which are described below. CALL TOLL FREE Esatuning, produced by ET A, allows regulation PA 800-792-2820 of the watch permanently at the factory by breaking metal NATIONAL 800-245-5090 traces on the substrate. Depending on the number and selec-

Please rush ___ #4010 Stem Assortments@ $47.95 each ESATUNING ------Please rush ___ #8501 Crown Assortments@ $59.95 each Please rush ___ Combination #4010 and #8501 assortments @$97.00

NAME ~------ADDRESS ~------~ CITY

(Please tum to page 17) L------~ April 1989/Horological Times 13 ULLETIN the barrel hook location causing the mainspring to exert uneven force on the assembly causing the hole to wear OARD off center.) I chuck the barrel up in a bezel chuck and bore out the hole with a cross-slide on the lathe. I then fit an appropriate plug and plug the hole. Next I measure the arbor after I have "polished" it and trued up its bearing A. NEW REQUESTS surface. (I have had no success in burnishing this surface as it seems to be made of the same high-lead content steel HAIRSPRING BLANKS as the arbors were. I finish with a piece of boxwood smeared Since the article in Horological Times explaining the C.G.S. with yellow rouge and it seems to do an adequate job.) I system for hairsprings we have had a number of requests then bore the plug out to fit the reconditioned arbor. for sources who can supply assortments and individual If there is room inside the movement I will make hairsprings according to C.G.S. number. the plug up to twice as tall as the original barrel was thick to provide additional bearing surface and slow down the ELGIN B.W. RAYMOND PARTS ID subsequent rewearing of the hole. Recently we have received requests for parts identification sheets for the Elgin B.W. Raymond watch, particularly NEW HA VEN CALENDAR CLOCK those parts involved with the up/down indicator. We Several months ago we requested information about the would like to copy this information for our files along calendar portion of a New Haven calendar clock. Later with any other technical data that may be published about we reported that an AWI member in Michigan sent photos this watch. of the clock he has in his shop. Now we have another response from an AWI member in San Diego, CA who also PINION WIRE FOR WATCHES AND CLOCKS owns one of the clocks. He has offered to loan his clock AWI is trying to develop a source list of suppliers who can to our Indianapolis member so he can copy the calendar furnish both watch and clock pinion wire. We are aware parts he needs to make. of a number of tradesmen who will custom cut pinions to order, but they do not sell pinion wire per se. RCA 812-A TUBE We continue to receive information about sources for this SPARE PARTS & SCHEMATIC FOR VIBROGRAF BIOO particular tube for an ultrasonic cleaning machine. Several An AWI member is seeking to service his own Vibrograf have offered a tube free. BlOO. He is seeking a source for spare parts and a schematic diagram. We frequently receive similar requests and would LUBRICANTS ABLE TO WITHSTAND EXTREME COLD like to develop a source list for spare parts. We have been advised that Synta-Frigo-Lube is good to -40° C, Synta-Visco to -20°, and Synta-Lube-Arctic to GERMAN TRADEMARK@ -60° C. The price is said to be about $15 per 2cc container. A Florida member is seeking to identify the maker of a This should take care of the needs of the Forestry Service German grandfather clock displaying the trademark@ in Wisconsin. SCHEMATIC FOR WATCHMASTER CLEANING MACHINE TYPE A-1 B. RESPONSES AWI member Lou Holtman was good enough to send a copy of his hand-drawn schematic of his A-1 cleaning machine. EXCESSIVE SPRING BARREL WEAR We continue to hear many "horror" stories of excessive DANCING GIRL CLOCKS spring barrel wear in modern German clocks. The' problem Since June 1988 we have been seeking a source for infor­ seems to be as great as was the pivot and pinion problem mation on German Dancing Girl clocks. An AWI member these same clocks exhibited a few years ago. The con­ living in Germany advises that parts can be obtained from: census of opinion was that the only cure was replacement Schmid-Schlenker GmbH or bushing. A number of members offered help with the P.O. Box 1338 bushing process; one such suggestion came from David D-7737 Bad Durrheim Arnold who wrote: West Germany I have seen many severely worn mainspring barrels They will correspond in English. in German clocks made in the last 20 years. The use of steel ba"el covers by one manufacturer did nothing to help the problem, but the other end of the barrel arbor is far C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED more sensitive to misdepthing with the second wheel pinion. WATCH HAIRSPRING VIBRATORS When 1 get one of these monsters across my bench Since the Hairspring Vibrating Co . has discontinued its I rebush the barrel. Yo u CANNOT simply take a reamer operation in New Jersey, AWI is attempting to put together and open up the hole larger as they do not wear concen­ a list of firms or individuals who vibrate watch hairsprings trically to the teeth on the ba"el. (This seems to be due to fm the trade.

14 Horological Times/April 1989 "CROWN" CLOCK: JAPANESE 31-DA Y Member J. Campbell has a 31-day clock made in Japan and marked with the name "Crown." The clock was mar­ keted by the Colonial Clock Co. of Zealand, MI. Colonial has been out of business for a few years; therefore, he cannot turn to them for information. Perhaps "Crown" is not the name of the manu­ 0 facturer of the clock; if this is true, hopefully someone SAVE sa5° t can identify the actual maker. Mr. Campbell is seeking a source in the United States who can supply a replacement Now you can get movement or information about assembly, especially de­ tails about the installation of the mainspring. an accurate Karat FLASH FLOOD FLUX C.F. Miller sent in the label from a box which contains the determination in following information: New Improved only 4-seconds! Flash Flood Flux (TM) Use Water to Thin The product was manufactured by La Ray of Miami, Inc., 36 N.E. 1st Street, No. 530, Miami, FL 33132. Efforts to find this firm in the directory have not been successful.

"PRECISE" WATCH TIMING MACHINE "HERSEY WATCH TIMER SERVICE" OF ClllCAGO W. Kiser has a "Precise" watch timing machine that is quite old. About 20 years ago it was serviced by "Hersey Watch Timer Service" of Chicago. A local radio/TV repairman advises that he would need a schematic if he were to attempt to repair it. Mr. Kiser seeks to know if the Hersey company is still in business, or whether someone can supply a schematic or repair this machine.

WINDING COILS FOR OLD ELECTRIC CLOCKS Howard Thompson of Owatoma, MN writes: Are there any publications available on rewinding coils for some of the older electric clocks? Jc would be relatively simple to do if one knew how many turns, wire diameter, etc. Some of these clocks are well worth restoring, especially zf they are a family heirloom. THE G-1 GOLD TESTER CAN If anyone has details that might help Mr. Thomp­ • Determine the Karat Value of Gold. son, we are sure other "Bulletin Board" readers would •Separate Gold Plating materials, Silver also be interested. Please let us hear from you. & Platinum. •Calibrate quickly, conveniently & inexpensivelv. DO YOU HAVE INFORMATION Regular REGARDING THIS MONTH'S REQUESTS? $475 NowS389

DO YOU NEED INFORMATION "Everything For The Watchmaker" ABOUT ONE OF THIS MONTH'S RESPONSES? If so, send a self-addressed stamped business-size TOLEDO JEWELERS envelope and your request to the address below 245 Twenty-Third St., P.O. Box 973 Toledo, Ohio 43696 BULLETIN BOARD Prices good thru April 30, 1989 Horological Times 3700 Harrison Avenue TOLL FREE ORDERING .•. Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 OHIO 800-472-0120 OTHERS 800-537-0260

April 1989/Horologf.cal Times 15 "MAKING IT - A Survival Guide for Today" is reprinted with kind permission of Universal Press Syndicate. All rights reserved. (© 1988, KEITH ROBINSON.)

Otu, the Jesi~ of I) cJ~~c.~ i..l)S SeCD'\dbCj !:v ·,~ fvnd;crn: ~llini DotS AHY"1P'( fl.fAU'f l:ime. No rnore. Like ~o ina..ij oi-1-.er A~ Y~ fAl,.f:1~' rt> ~§~ l'~OW WI/AT 11114€ IT IS? l:hil\p - c~r.s, W"lf'lth5 'hoe$/' presiclet1~.S - h•w DO~S Af('(PJDOY ~~y r.,io H-AIPJ p~ f.A./.£ ! thej loo~ i1 far lrroie mitor~"'t l:A11.vi wAelher A frt.ecm! U.ej work ..sell. -foJ~'jS w~ukrs !ell more Abo"t­ 1ri f-lt>WDY WllAr bo I LoOf< lheir ow11ers th~~ t)f,.,o>t tkc. time ... t>ooDY f1M€.1 IAkf - A C/,()CKf?

~ A J;r~l ~tth is grul: )t ldl;rir jo~ it) J:'fJ, l> v/:: if jo" nee.J bi ~hel.l iH lo rnit111k5 LI( t~~ i~r cfo5e5,,.

~ ·==:,,: .... /\ND lt~L. oTttfR ~ _· ::~ :.- · ;~ ··:: I tf0 rfut;SL'1 l~DY E~er'o"t ~ws if . f>;5_;·:·: c~~~~~~~~ ~011 <41\ a~rJ a ~~se. w'.~lc.ks ttll re~I Role.x, s.o jov ~~ti~ i..h~ ti~ ii is : /H wl-.j l>ot~et ? .fitnt fur ~i.1 lo ~ ~ d11e .

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V!f j Pot"\~ : we~; ""5 ' d~ssi c. wiit,h fu,,,, tl-.~ 'zos, •30, Of''fos.

16 Horological Times/April 1989 WATCHES INSIDE & OUT (Continued from page 13) tion of the traces broken, the circuit suppresses a certain number of impulses resulting in a correction of between 0.00 and 8.18 seconds per day . No adjustment is provided. A gate time of 20 seconds or a multiple of twenty seconds is used when checking the timekeeping. Another development from ET A is Thermo-Com­ pensation. Watches including this feature are capable of errors of less than 10 seconds per year and have a correction period of 8 minutes. As a result, the rate cannot be obtained DIGITAL FREQUENC Y CONTROL from timing equipment. Instead the following method is used. Compare the watch with an accurate time source to establish the monthly error. If it exceeds 0.8 seconds, a loss of 15 seconds per month, and a cut through both traces regulation is required. On the substrate there are two contacts at 'A' and 'B' a loss of 30 seconds per month. marked with positive and negative symbols. Pressure on the Watches with logic regulation have become common appropriate contact while the crown is pulled out to the third today because of the better control they give the manufacturer position results in a 0.33 second per month correction. over the standard of timekeeping their products provide. A final example is Digital Frequency Control from No doubt there is an economic advantage associated with most Citizen. Regulation is achieved by breaking through specific types. It may seem that the responsibility for the timekeeping parts of the printed circuit. Depending on the point chosen, of watches is being removed almost entirely from the watch the rate may be changed by preset increments. Any further repairer. This is not the case as it is still the repairer who will adjustment requires replacement of the circuit. In the follow­ continue to diagnose a faulty circuit and the resulting error. ing example a cut through the metal trace at 'A' results in a gain of 15 seconds per month, a cut through the trace at 'B'

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April 1989/Horological Times 17 • flOV1CC Welch~kcr

James Adams, CMW, CMBHI

INTRODIJCTION TO WATCHMAKER ELECTRONICS PART 1

s watchmakers, we entered our profession teething dispelled and knowledge takes its place, the fine mechanical on the mechanical watch movement. Watch factories watchmakers will take to these like a duck takes to water. fi produced them and we serviced and kept them In a comparison of the mechanical watch movement operating to their standards. Watchmaking calls for a certain to an electronic watch movement, it is far easier to replace degree of dexterity and manual skills demanded of few other a quartz crystal oscillator than to restaff a balance or true professions. But it seems the arrival of electronics has thrown a balance spring, that is a hairspring. Isochronism error does our profession off course and into a new direction. not exist in electronic movements. Adjusting PF&A stones At first it had (and in some cases even now) appeared and darts is far more time consuming than working with a as a sinister bogeyman. Some craftsmen are afraid to touch rotor from an electronic movement. electronics, as they may ruin components or the entire move­ ment through inexperience. Other craftsmen are fearful of doing anything at all to them. The root cause of all this is GRAPHIC SYMBOLS ignorance of the electronics involved. Once this ignorance is Power Direct ~ Cell DC POWER SOURCE ~ Current FIGURE 1 µA Micro ampere n Ohm rriv~:L Resistance v Volt ,..._ lJj - FIGURE 1A: Electronic schematic diagram. r -.._ __. - ---- POWER SOURCE ------~

18 Horological Times/April 1989 I know that when the initial shock of finally delving FIGURE 2 into these movements is over and the watchmaker gains an understanding of the principles of watchmaker electronics and their associated components, this type of timekeeping device will be "a piece of cake" to work with. To repair a mechanical movement after working with and repairing electronic move­ ments, it will seem quite a task to fit a staff, fit a roller, or rejewel a plate or bridge. There are two things we are going to do in this introduction that are necessary for this new and still develop­ By pumping in more water at the left it makes the water flow faster ing tec~ology. They are: (1) learn and use the new terms to the right. associated with electronic watch servicing and (2) stay away from electronic math. During this introduction to watchmaker electronics keep an open mind. Do not bring trepidation and a sense of inadequacy with you. You will soon see for yourself that you can become a master electronic watchmaker easier than you became a master mechanical watchmaker. As we progress and use new terms, they will be fully defined in our language. We will not include any electronic theories or math that are of no practical use or value to the watchmaker. The most basic concept of electrical systems is that they either perform work or carry information. Another word for system is circuit-electrical circuit-and a circuit is just what it implies. Electrical energy starts somewhere, goes By pumping in more voltage at the left it makes the current flow somewhere, works, and returns to its source. The action of faster to the right.

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April 1989/Horological Times 19 electricity in its environment is really very simple to under­ CONVECTION CURRENT stand. In fact , electricity acts just like water does in its en­ Benjamin Franklin was an innovative and imaginative vironment. So much so, that we can use water flow to illus­ scientist, but he made a wrong guess and invented "convection trate the flow of electrical energy. current." Benny knew when glass and amber were rubbed Electricity, as water, flows and fills all spaces avail­ with wool and silk the glass and amber would attract each able to it. Electricity is made up of electrons. It is the move­ other by "some kind of force." On the other hand, two ment of these electrons that is of interest to us. The term pieces of glass or amber rubbed together would repel each electronic merely refers to these electrons. Now electrons are other. negatively charged. That being the case , they repel each Benny said that all bodies, including glass and amber, other. If electrons are forced into a wire at one end, they are contained a mysterious, invisible fluid. Glass and amber each crowded together going in. Once in the wire, because they contain a natural amount of this fluid. When rubbed, glass repel each other, they race down the wire to get away from and amber take this fluid away from one substance and gives the crowd at the point of entry. this fluid to the other substance. The attraction of unlike Figure 1 illustrates how water acts under the same bodies was explained as the tendency of this fluid to return to condition. Imagine an irrigation channel, open at the top, normal levels in each substance. Any excess fluid was termed so we can observe what happens. This channel forms a loop "positive" and , conversely, a shortage of fluid was termed but not a closed loop. Bridging the open space is a water "negative." pump. This pump is very efficient and pumps large quantities Benny made an intuitive guess. He said the glass had of water from one end of the loop to the other. This action the excess, hence "positive," and amber had the "negative" causes water to pile up under the pump output nozzel before charge. His guess became the "convection" for the next moving down the channel. This water pressure would be called hundred years. Franklin's fluid flowed from positive to nega­ voltage when this analogy is applied to an electrical circuit. tive. But scientists discovered a hundred years later that Figure 1A is a schematic circuit diagram of the same concept. electrons flowed just the opposite of what Benny's ideas The flow or forward motion of electrons through were. the channel would be called current in our Figure 1A electrical To make the electrons match Benny's theory they circuit. Water is measured in gallons per minute flow. Elec­ were labeled "negative," seeing as Benny's theory was ac­ trical flow is measured in amperes . In electronic watches flow cepted worldwide. Electrical motors, textbooks, and mathema­ is measured in microamperes, the graphic symbol being µA. tics showed electrical flow from positive to negative. This As water flows through our channel, it encounters idea was perfectly satisfactory; even today many engineers the resistance of the channel walls and bottom and any sharp talk in terms of Ben's current or voltage. corners it must negotiate exactly the same as electricity This was not meant to confuse you, but to give passing through a wire. The smaller the diameter of the wire, you an insight into what a great man, Benjamin Franklin, the more resistance; the lower the wire, the more resistance contributed to the science of electricity. encountered. Electricity passing through a wire also creates an electromagnetic field around that wire. In all electrical circuits we have an interplay of these three effects-voltage, current, and resistance. You need not concern yourself too much about these effects, except as we refer to them in the analog: of or pertaining to the general class of devices electronic watch, and here we are mainl:y concerned with the in which the output varies as a continuous function SMQ movement. of the input. Work and information can be processed in two analogy: a likeness between things in some circum­ ways, either the digital method or the analog method. The stances, parallelism, likeness. electronic part of the SMQ uses the digital method. Why? current: the movement of electrons through a conductor Well, ifs the simplest and most straightforward electronic measured in amperes. way of doing anything. There are only two possibilities in digital: of or pertaining to the class of devices in circuits the digital method. The electronics are switched either "on" in which the output varies in discrete steps (i.e. or "off." The "on-off' switching occurs so rapidly it's im­ pulses or "on-off' operation). possible to discern this output. In all the SMQs we work with, microampere: one millionth of an ampere. the electronic part of the movement is digital and the me­ oscillator: to swing to and fro, vibrate, to cause to swing. chanical part is analog in nature. S.M.Q.: stepping motor quartz. Before we proceed to the next step, it would be schematic diagram: a diagram of a circuit with com­ wise for you to stop and contemplate what we have just dis­ ponents represented by graphical symbols. cussed. Reread this article up to this point. This is the heart voltage: electrical pressure, the force which causes and soul of electronics. What is to follow builds on the prin­ current to flow through an electrical conductor. ciples of voltage, current, and resistance. Go ahead, do as you were told. I'll wait for you. OK, you got it now? Good. Now that you've seen it in your mind's eye and have REFERENCE: Understanding Solid State Electronics, Radio Shack toyed, probed, and poked the three basic electrical principles, let's move on to something of historical interest.

20 Horological Times/April 1989 Classic Tour of Russia

May 13 -June 3, 1989 Henry B. Fried, Tour Guide For more information, call or write: AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211 ; (513) 661-3838.

Spanning the vastness and variety of Russia from the shores of the Black Sea to the Baltic Coast, crossing the Caucasus from the magnificent palaces of the c:zars, this tour is truly a chance to experience the best of many contrasting "worlds." We begin in Moscow, not only the seat of the U.S.S.R.'s government, but also the historic heart of Russia, rich in art and culture. We travel back into the past as we see the ancient cities of Erevan, near the land of Noah's Ark, and Tblisi, where Marco Polo chronicled the picturesque fortresses. Next we visit Yalta the pleasure resort which attracted the czars and nobility who built their palaces and villas amidst its scenic beauties. Another contrast awaits us, the rich agriculrw:al lands of the Cossacks along the banks of the quietly flowing Don. We then journey to the city of Kiev, and finally to glorious Leningrad, built by Peter the Great to rival Europe's most beautiful capitals.

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April 1989/Horologi,cal Times 21 SHOPTALK

Wes Door, CMW

Retrofitting Quartz to Pocket Sizes PART 1

n most of our retrofitting we use movements of position. Also, the stem will not reach and the tap 10 watch exactly or approximately the same size for replace­ stem will not match the tap 2 pocket watch crown. These I ment. This means that if our customer has a 6% problems will be discussed in the next "Shop Talk" articles. ligne watch, we naturally will use a 6% ligne movement as We will use this same Figure 1 for those articles also, as it its replacement. This is the ideal situation; however, many gives us an overview of our problems. times we have a large case and the needed "matching" move­ Notice the lower left of Figure 1 which shows the ment just isn't made (Figure 1) . In this case we need to use cannon pinion and hour wheel. This is our project today. the largest available movement. Today we are using an 11 h ligne movement. Since it will fit into the center of the large EXTENDING POSTS FOR HANDS case , several problems must be solved. Some quartz replacement movements are available As we see in Figure 1, when we place the movement in two different cannon pinion and hour wheel heights. into the center space of the pocket watch size case we have These are the "normal" and the "reduced" height. The re­ extra space to "fill in ." Another problem is the dial feet duced height is very short and we certainly must not use

FIGURE 1 ~ ~ D JI

CllCIWN

11i LIGNE ~

,. G Q~ ~'i.:;'~

H 8 ~ CAN*lN PINIOIN L " , ~ DIAL HOLE

j J ~DIAL r.: _I i : ~~.

22 Horologi,cal Times/April 1989 these for our project today. We mention it here so we know that this choice is available and even the "normal" heights will be too short for our use today. All of our measurements shown here may vary depending on the movement selected and the case that it will be fitted into. It is very important to make a sketch and mark down the measurements as we make these "extender" ~zVej~y3 parts. Then if we make a mistake, it is much faster to remake the part. 1. We need a piece of brass bushing wire. (We could Panasonic use a rod instead but I prefer the "starter hole" that the bushing wire gives us.) I used a l.8mm O.D. (outside diameter) Watch Battery bushing wire. - . 2. Since the cannon pinion (Figure 1-H) measures ~ Headquarters ~ 0.79mm diameter, I used drill #68 (0.78mm) and drilled a hole deep enough to allow this brass wire to be fitted all the Number Price Number Price way over the cannon pinion (Figure 1-G). Next we trim down the O.D. to l.15mm. 364 .30 394 .54 NOTE: Most of us have drill sets with Numbers 379 .63 390 .57 61 to 80 and this is what we need for this job. We will also 377 .44 319 .89 need a set with larger numbers for the hour wheel extension 392 .26 387 .69 (Step 4). Drills are made in numbers 1 through 60, the smaller the number the larger the drill. 395 .40 396 .45 3. Before we fit this tubing, we need to cut a shoul­ 362 .40 391 .44 der in the top end for the minute hand. It is a good idea to 389 .46 399 .47 select hands (both hour and minute) at this point, that is, if we are not using the original ones. Our customer probably 371 .45 381 .49 will want the original hands and this shouldn't be a problem 357 .70 370 .42 unless the hands are too heavy. For quartz watches we need 397 .44 323 .64 "light" hands. 343 .44 303 .78 4. Now we need to make an extension for the hour hand. The hour wheel tube height must be extended. The 321 .49 317 .78 l.D. (inside diameter) of this extender must fit over the 329 .75 CR2016 .75 cannon pinion extender that we just made (Figure 1-1). This means we must select a piece of bushing rod large enough so Battery starter kits start at the low price of $155.00 that we can drill a center hole to clear (l.15mm, #56 drill). Call for details I preferred to drill this exact size and then slightly broach out for clearance. FREE MARKING PEN!* NOTE: If we follow this seemingly logical process we will be cutting away all to the original hour wheel tube With the purchase of 100 or more batteries and have no easy way to recenter the tube to the wheel. Permanent marker to date your batteries Therefore, I recommend the following. Measure the hour and casesll wheel post O.D. (l.19mm diameter) and drill a hole into the hour wheel post new stock tubing to that size. Make a firm · ~ fitting and tap it on (over) the original hour wheel post. - C;tf?. - •. . - Next, hard gold solder for appearance and strength. Solder . ~ should flow on the outside of the new tubing and onto the hour wheel. Use a very small amount of solder so that none *While supplfes last will flow into the hour wheel teeth. Now we need to look back at Step 4 and drill out the center of this new hour wheel with the #56 drill. Notice that this hole will be so large that the complete original -To Order - hour wheel tube has been cut away. This is alright since our Call Our New Toll-free Number new extension post will be perfectly centered. Next, cut it to proper height and then cut a shoulder for the hour hand. Nationwide Since it is hard to hold the hour wheel in the lathe, I made a brass rod (1.16mm), peened one end, and placed 800-476-2715 the hour wheel over it and put it in the lathe. A small crown "O" ring may be placed between the lathe collet chuck and Local (813) 229-2715 the hour wheel to increase friction. This is so the wheel will not slip while cutting the hour hand shoulder. 456 West Columbus Drive Tampa, Florida 33602 Next month we'll have more on this retrofitting project. 489 Prices subject to change

April 1989/ Horologi.cal Times 23 Reserve PoUJer Indicators

By

Henry B. Fried

CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC

here are numerous devices for recording the amount Most of these types of reserve power indicating of mainspring power stored in the barrel. They were devices are designed so that the ratchet moves the indicator T employed very early in the marine chronometer and in one direction, while the barrel, going also in the same direc­ later in the accurate, railroad-type pocket timepiece. They tion as the ratchet, influences the indicator in the opposite even perform a useful service in the self-winding watch. direction. This is done most often by introducing an additional The principle of every such device is that when the gear between the ratchet and the indicator train. These units mainspring is wound through the ratchet, manually or auto­ are composed of a system known as differential gearing (a matically, a special train of gears connected to the ratchet series of gears connected to different power sources, permit­ moves an indicator across a graduated dial showing the extent ting the different speeds of each source to influence the same of this winding. The barrel teeth, too, are connected to the axle, such as the post upon which an indicator hand might be same train so that when it utilizes the mainspring's power, fitted). An automobile uses a similar system so that each rear this same train is made to reverse itself and the indicator wheel may be turned at different speeds as when making a hand moves in the opposite direction. sharp turn or maneuvering for parking.

M

J

~ G~ · I /~~ ~ ~E E D I

Figure 1. Exploded, schematic view of the differential Figure 2. Looking at the differential as it is geared to the barrel and the for reverse - power indicator such as used with the ratchet wheel from the dlal-up position. Parts K, L, M, and N are fitted to Lecoultre Cal. 481. this unit above the dial plate but under the regular dial.

24 Horologi.cal Times/April 1989 Figure 1 shows the system that was used by the Lecoultre Calibre 481. This has an ingenious yet simple dif­ ferential device to show the power stored by the self-winding OVER or the manually wound mainspring. This view shows the scheme of the differential in exploded section. The differen­ tial axle F (also called a satellite spindle) pivots freely between the upper and lower plates of the movement. The upper dif­ I 4,000 ferential gear H and the lower gear E are free to turn on shoulders of the differential axle. Both wheels H and E have dual sets of radial and crown teeth. The differential pinion IN STOCK! G is mounted on the shoulder of the cross arbor GA and is We have over 14,000 pocket watch dials in free to turn on this arbor. The top pivot of F, with its notch, stock! Factory names such as Hamilton, extends up through the dial plate, and the driving pinion J Rockford, Illinois, Howard, Ball, Elgin, snaps onto this pivot like a cannon pinion. Burlington, Seth Thomas, Hampden, Figure 2 shows the differential as assembled to the Century, Waltham, Standard, South Bend, winding mechanism, in the dial-up position. A is the mainspring and Columbus are included. These are the barrel whose teeth are enmeshed with the satellite wheel H of same high quality enamel dials that usually the differential. The ratchet wheel C, wound either manually sell from $16.50 to $18.50. SPECIAL through the crown wheel B or through the self-winding train, PRICE ONLY $7.50 EACH OR $6.50 is engaged with the reversing pinion D which serves to change EACH IF YOU BUY 5 OR MORE OF the direction of the wheel E when the ratchet is the motivating YOUR CHOICE! Please write for a factor. The differential pinion G is shown mounted on its complete listing of the pocket watch dials cross arbor and enmeshed with the crown teeth of both the we have in stock! lower and upper satellite wheels H and E. The driving pinion J is shown here snapped into place under the regular dial; this drives the intermediate wheel K, and the pinion L is en­ meshed with the dial disk M. The dial disk is kept in place under the dial by its dial washer N. The dial disk M has teeth cut only partially around its circumference. Its uncut por­ tions serve to indicate the outer limits of the winding range. Figure 3 shows the action when the ratchet wheel, wound manually or by the automatic train, winds faster than the barrel can unwind. Here, the ratchet C, moving counter­ clockwise (in the dial-up position), rotates the reversing pin­ ion D in the clockwise direction, which in turn moves the satellite wheel E in the counterclockwise direction. The dif­ 18 size Hamilton double sunk dial. Bold ferential pinion G is turned downward in the direction of the Arabic numerals - red 5 thru 60. arrow by the crown teeth of wheel E. Since this pinion G is 03-4071 T ...... $7 .50 each also geared to the crown teeth of wheel H and this upper wheel cannot move because it is geared to the comparatively motionless barrel, the differential pinion G will have to roll around it as shown at F. The cross arbor of pinion G thus causes the differential axle F to turn counterclockwise. The ASSORTED POCKET WATCH JEWELS (Please tum to next page} Ruby Garnet jewels in brass settings for pocket watches. 72 assorted train jewels for pivots of 3rd, 4th, escape wheel, etc. - suitable for repair of American pocket watches . ... We Offer 03-4037 ...... $6.95 Success ffll \*~ By Degrees! S. r:CaRoSe1lnc. Worldwide Distributon to Horologists ~ J , I Uz// 234 Commerce Place, Greensboro, N.C. 27420, U.S.A. Phone: (919) 275-0462

April 1989/Horological Times 25 driving pinion J, clutch-tight on the protruding pivot of axle In this illustration, the dial disk M is shown en­ F, is also carried counterclockwise. This causes the inter­ meshed with the pinion L of the intermediate wheel K, so that mediate wheel K to turn clockwise and its pinion thus turns the dial disk's teeth are locked at the point where the rim of the indicator disk in the counterclockwise direction so that the this disk ceases to have teeth. The aperture will then show 0, numbers on this disk, showing the amount of running time in indicating that the watch should either be worn or wound the barrel's power, grow progressively greater. Notice that the manually. portion of this disk from 10 to 0 is shaded, usually in red. As with other watches using a "cannon pinion" type This is to notify the wearer that there is not much action re­ of driving pinion like pinion J, should its clam-notch require maining in the barrel. tightening, this should be done in moderation, introducing The schematic drawing in Figure 4 shows the se­ only enough friction to permit it to be carried around and still quence when the winding is not in action, but the barrel and carry both the intermediate wheel and pinion and the dial mainspring are now being unwound. The barrel A is moving in disk. Should the pinion J be made too tight on the axle F, the counterclockwise direction. The barrel teeth cause the this may cause rebounding of the balance when the maximum satellite wheel H to tum clockwise, and its crown teeth, en­ winding has taken place, either manually or through the auto­ gaged with the differential pinion G, cause this to tum up­ matic winding train, regardless of the slip spring. This is be­ wards or counterclockwise. Because the lower satellite wheel cause axle F, influenced by the tight pinion, exerts additional E cannot move with the pinion G as it is connected to the force on the barrel teeth through the upper satellite wheel H. reverser pinion D and the ratchet E, the differential pinion G When oiling this device, use a heavier oil, such as a must therefore roll around the wheel E, carried along by the clock oil, at the pivots and shoulders of the axle F and at the upper satellite wheel H and turning with it. bearing of G, and apply just a little to the crown teeth of the Since the differential pinion G is attached to the cross upper and lower satellite wheels H and E. Do not oil the snap­ arbor which is part of the differential axle F, the axle F turns on part of the axle F. However, place a small amount of clock in the clockwise direction as shown by the arrow. The driving oil at the bearing hole of the reverser pinion D. Assemble as pinion J turns with this axle and moves the intermediate in these figures; no special position is required when position­ wheel K and its pinion in the counterclockwise direction. The ing the disk M; merely wind this manually until you can feel pinion L thus turns the dial disk in the clockwise direction so the slip spring take action. The disk's aperture will then read that the numbers, shown through the regular dial's aperture, 40. become regressively smaller.

M

c

Figure 3. Showing the action of the indicator mech· Figure 4. This figure shows the action and direction anism when the winding of the ratchet takes place. of the differential parts when the winding Is motion· Follow the action starting from the ratchet c, and less but the barrel and mainspring are unwinding. continue up through the reverser D, the lower satel· Follow this sequence from the barrel A through the lite wheel E, the differential pinion G, the axle F, the upper satellite wheel H to the differential pinion G, (cannon) driving pinion J, the Intermediate wheel K, the differential axle F, the driving pinion J, the In­ and the dial disk M. The upper satellite wheel H and termediate wheel and pinion K, and finally to the the barrel A are considered as motionless In this se­ d·lal disk M. Notice that in this figure the last of the quence. teeth of the disk M are against the pinion L of the in­ termediate wheel. Any further action of the unwind· Ing will cause the axle F to slip-clutch with the driving pinion J.

26 Horological Times/April 1989 is a challenge. Usually someone has tam­ pered or modified the clock so I end up undoing the mess. Enclosed is an article about something I do on a non-paying, FORUM volunteer basis. It is fun, challenging, The FORUM is a column devoted to the discussion and and good for business. debate of horological piffle, practices, and problems. Robert Macomber Comments can be controversial, but should always re­ Prescott, AZ main within the bounds of good taste. Responses should be sent to: AWi FORUM, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. The article Bob sent describes his work caring for the tower and other Albert Dodson Ralph Geiger CMC CMW, CMC, CEWS, CMBHI clocks in the Yavapai County Courthouse. It sounds like an interesting hobby and a good piece of PR. It is obvious from the article that Bob's interest in clocks goes beyond the bench and extends to the historical aspects of horology. Bob is BORED? NOT ME! Then came the automatics, alarms, and also in the process of making, from calendars; a few more things to keep a scratch, clocks for each of his five chil­ ust a comment on "How Do fellow from getting bored. But now there dren. He obviously does not have enough You Do It" in the January '89 is a different ball game in town. There are time to be bored. We would still like to Jissue . After more than 60 coils, circuit boards, integrated circuits, hear from others regarding their solu­ years of repairing watches, I cannot re­ ohms, volts, resistance, quartz crystals, tions for eliminating boredom. member being bored ... frustrated at silver epoxy, and on and on. No room R. G. times, but never bored. My first experi­ here for boredom. ences as an apprentice were with pocket Harold Eaton watches. They were frightening at the St. Louis, MO GOT AN OPINION? time but never boring. After a few years GOT THE FACTS? wristwatches came along. That was a challenge making the transition from big Regarding "How Do You Do WRITE US WITH YOUR THOUGHTS! to small, but the format was the same. lt?"-well, I am not bored. Each clock U[II3

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April 1989/Horological Times 27 TechnicallyWATCHESC © 1989

Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author)

1989 Antique Watch Restoration © PART XL

ngold fraises or cutters were invented by Pierre The arbor has a small pulley so it can be turned with a small I Frederic Ingold (1787-1878). Ingold also invented lathe bow. Each end of the arbor is pointed to fit between several pieces of machinery for making watches. The purpose centers in the lathe. of Ingold cutters is to correct faulty wheel teeth, some of the Figure 2 shows an enlarged drawing of one of the In­ faults being: (1) rough tooth driving surfaces, (2) incorrectly gold cutters. The cutter is shaped similar to a pinion without shaped addendum, (3) uneven tooth widths, lengths, and its addenda. The spaces milled into the cylinder forming the spacings, ( 4) slightly out-of-round wheels, and (5) wheels cutter have an epicycloidal shape like the addenda of a tooth which are slightly too large. which is formed with epicycloidal curves. The curves forming The use of Ingold cutters on train wheels gives pre­ the spaces have sharp ridges cut into them. These ridges act cision to gearing which causes the train to deliver uniform like a fine file on the teeth of the wheel as the wheel is worked maximum power to the escapement of a timepiece. This is on by the cutter. Each cutter has a tapered hole in its center because the cutters cause a reduction in engaging and dis­ for fitting onto a tapered arbor. Ingold cutters are made with engaging friction in the train. In many cases, after the Ingold 15 , 20, and 30 teeth in graduated diameters for each number cutters have been used on a train, the power to drive the of teeth. The set shown in Figure 1 has 15 tooth cutters gradu­ train can be reduced and still obtain the proper motion to the ated from 5.75 mm diameter to 6.50 mm; 20 tooth cutters balance wheel. are graduated from 3.55 mm to 7.00 mm in diameter; and the Figure 1 shows a complete set of Ingold cutters. 30 tooth cutters are graduated from 2.70 mm to 5.15 mm in This set contains 62 cutters. Other sets have 36 or 48 cutters. diameter. These cutters were made in the late 1800s and, as far as is Figure 3, View A shows how the teeth of wheels are known, they are not made any more, but they show up oc­ sometimes left very rough by the wheel cutter or regular casionally in sets of used tools. View A, Figure 1 shows the rounding-up cutters. This is very common in 400-day clocks small lathe which is used to hold the wheel and cutter when a as well as some watches. This increases the engaging friction on wheel is being rounded up. This lathe is similar to a depthing low number pinion leaves and increases the disengaging fric­ tool. The two jaws are opened and closed with a screw like a tion on all wheels and pinions. In fact, if the pinion leaves are depthing tool. The lathe is held in a bench vise when being also rough, sometimes the train will completely lock up be­ used. View B shows one of the 62 cutters and View C shows cause of this increased friction. The cutters leave lines running one of the tapered turning arbors used for holding the cutters. across the faces of the teeth as shown in View B, Figure 3. Figure 2 Figure 1

""'.. '.. . ~ •. •' - t. ·~ ~ . . ~ ~· .... - -.. ~ ' - . .. ~==~

28 Horo/ogi,cal Times/April 1989 Figure 3 Figure 4

A--

Figure 4 shows how the lathe is used to round up a wheel. A description is as follows. The lathe is held by its foot in a bench vise as shown. The wheel to be rounded up is held between the two runners in the back jaw of the lathe. B c The cutter is placed on a tapered arbor which has a pulley and this is placed between the runners of the front jaw of the lathe. These lines cause great resistance to the motion of the train. The jaws of the lathe are adjusted the correct distance apart The Ingold cutter not only removes these lines but smoothes by turning the adjusting screw A, Figure 4. Since the jaws of the tooth lengthwise of the tooth; therefore, any lines left the lathe are not spring controlled like a depthing tool, it is by the Ingold cutter will be running lengthwise of the tooth necessary to hold the jaws with the fingers as shown in Figure with the line of motion as shown in View C, Figure 3. This 4 so the back jaw will always rest against the end of the ad­ reduces the resistance to the motion of the train. justing screw while the cutter arbor is rotated back and forth

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I Germanow-Simon------, Corporation 1-800-448-3400 I I Dept. 420, P.O. Box 1091 Ext. 466 $15.00 Minimum WATS Line Order I Rochester, NY 14603 I (AREA CODE 612) 546-3800 I Please send me: Name I MINNESOTA WATS 800-742-0508 O MG-18$650. 0 MG-10$335. Address I NATIONWIDE WATS 800-328-0614 I 0 MG-8$227. 0 MG-5$146. 0 MG-3 $78. c·11 State Zip I 800 BOONE AVENUE NORTH I 0 G-S Catalog with SEIKO, Y . MINNEAPOLIS. MINNESOTA 55427 I BULOVA reference list Phone I o Info on trade-in for new ------I I up-to-date G-S Crystal Set Wholesaler's Name ~------~ April 1989/Horological Times 29 with the bow. The bow should be long enough that the cutter SELECTING PROPER CUTTER will turn the wheel more than one turn in each direction. The jaws of the lathe should be adjusted so a very light cut is made When using an Ingold cutter, the pitch of the cutter must with the cutter at first, then the wheel is examined to see if match the pitch of the wheel. Therefore, a good method to use the cutter is cutting where it should be cutting. After this, in selecting the proper cutter for a wheel is to first determine the cutter can be set deeper and then rotated back and forth the number of teeth in the wheel and its outside diameter. In again until the desired results are obtained. CAUTION: Care this case, it is determined that the wheel has 60 teeth and has must be used to avoid overdoing this operation. an outside diameter of 15.25 mm. Now, determine the pitch Figure 5 shows a close-up of the lathe with a wheel diameter of the wheel: and cutter in position. Pitch Diameter Number of Teeth X Wheel Outside Diameter Figure 5 of Wheel Number of Teeth+ 2.50 (addendum)

60 x 15.25 Pitch Diameter = = 14.64 60 + 2.50

Next, determine the pitch of the wheel: Pitch Diameter X rr Pitch= Number of Teeth

14.64 3.1416 Pitch= x = .7665 60

Now, determine the proper diameter for the Ingold cutter:

. t f C tt Wheel Pitch X Number of Teeth in Cutter Diame er o u er= ------­ rr Figure 6 .7665 X 20 Teeth Diameter of Cutter = 3.1416 4.88

Second example : Wheel 75 teeth; outside diameter 10.95 . 75 x 10.95 Pitch Diameter = = 10.60 75 + 2.50 10.60 x 3.1416 .444 Pitch= 75

Cutter Diameter= .4:.~:i~o 2.83

When checking the cutters in the set, it is found that there is no 20 tooth cutter in the set that small in diameter. This means that we must go to a 30 tooth cutter. Therefore, we would calculate for the proper diameter of a 30 tooth cut­ ter for the wheel: .444 30 Cutter Diameter= x 4.24 3.1416

When checking the set of cutters, it is found that this size of cutter is in the set. Now, check this particular cutter for proper fit with the wheel. Another method that can be used for selecting the proper size of Ingold cutter is by the use of a SECTOR (pro­ portional gauge). The sector is shown in Figure 6. It is based on tl}e fundamental principle of similar triangles in which the homologous sides are proportional. View A shows the hinge, View B shows the locking screw, View C shows the knob of

30 Horological Times/April 1989 Figure 7 Figure 8 Figure 9

CUTTER CUTTER TOO LARGE TOO SMALL

the Vernier screw, and View D shows the Vernier locking Figure 9 shows an Ingold cutter which is too small for screw. The wheel is shown at E, and the Ingold cutter is shown the wheel. In this case, the pitch of the cutter is less than the at F. pitch of the wheel. When this condition exists, the ends of the To use the sector method, one would first count cutter teeth will cut steps in the curved addenda of the wheel the teeth in the wheel to be worked on. Let us say that the teeth as shown at "a" and "a", Figure 9. wheel has 7 5 teeth. Then the wheel is placed between the arms "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next of the sector at division 75. The arm is locked in that position month. by tightening screw B, Figure 6. Now, an Ingold cutter is selected that will fit at the proper division between the arms of the sector. This would depend on how many teeth the Ingold cutter has. If the cutter selected has 20 teeth, then the cutter should come to division 19 which is one division less than the number of teeth in the Ingold cutter. On the other hand, if a e 20 tooth cutter cannot be found in the set that will stop at BERGEON division 19, then we would go to a 30 tooth Ingold cutter to find one which would stop at division 29 on the sector scale. This would be one division less than the teeth in the Ingold For quartz watches, BERGEON can supply cutter. NOTE: Although a cutter is usually selected which will you with various assortments of : stop at one division less than the number of teeth on the In­ gold cutter, there are some cases where the cutter should be two or even three divisions less than the number of teeth on crowns the cutter. The diameter of the cutter can vary with the width of the teeth on the wheel. mineral glasses Regardless of which method is used for selecting an Ingold cutter, finally the cutter should be checked for a cor­ hands rect fit with the wheel before it is used on the wheel. Figure 7 shows a correct cutter fit with the wheel. To be a correct fit, cutter teeth "a" and "d" should rest on wheel teeth A and C. Tooth B should have some freedom in the space of the cutter between teeth "b" and "c" of the cutter. I The ends of cutter teeth "b" and "c" must not touch the wheel teeth while entering or leaving the wheel teeth as the cutter is rotated back and forth while rounding up the wheel. Figure 8 shows an Ingold cutter which is too large for the wheel. When a cutter is too large for the wheel, this in­ l Sale through specialized dealers. dicates that the pitch of the cutter is greater than the pitch Ask for detailed illustrated leaflets. of the wheel. When this condition exists, cutter tooth A will BERGEON & CIE SA CH 2400 LE LOCLE cut a notch into wheel tooth C at point "a"; likewise, cutter 11, av. du Technicum Telex 952 321 berg ch tooth B will cut into wheel tooth D at point "b".

April 1989/Horological Times 31 ROCK QUARRY

Fred S. Burckhardt

How to Hold Your Audience

hope you'll be able to understand this because I just Watches Work?" are only a few subjects in which many groups came from the dentist and my mouth is all numb. would be interested. I My lips feel like I'm chewing on a piece of whale When putting your talk together always remember blubber. I have to admit I do have a good dentist. His name the three S's-SIMPLE, SHORT, SATISFYING. is 'Jaws Burnbaum.' When I went in, he told me he had some SIMPLE in the sense that everyone in the audience good news and some bad news. The good news was that all will be able to understand what you're talking about. Nobody my teeth were fine, no problem. The bad news was that my cares in which key an Accutron hums or how many teeth in gums had to come out. I know one thing, I'll never put my the third wheel of a Font 60, but they might be interested in teeth in anybody else's hands. why an Accutron hums instead of ticks or how many thou­ Speaking of speaking, if you've never tried speaking sands or millions of Font 60's were made. Talk in plain English to groups before, you should. I guess I average about a talk as not too many people understand watchmakers' or clock­ per month to civic groups, church groups, and men's and makers' jargon. women's groups. Not only is it fun and good for business, SHORT - If you can't say what you have to say in but people think you are smart. Now don't get a big head, twenty to thirty minutes, you're saying the wrong thing and because you aren't. It's just that they don't have any idea talking too much. There aren't many speakers who can hold what you are talking about and, when that's the case, people an audience after that length of time. People lose interest automatically think, "Gee, he really knows his business!" and become bored rather quickly. Say what you have to say My favorite groups are the older women. I guess it's and sit down. because they've seen and heard it all and there's nothing you SATISFYING - Those attending your talk are doing can do or say that will embarrass them. They always like a so because they have a need or desire they feel will be satisfied little joking, especially if there's an echo of naughtiness in­ by listening to what you have to say. You accepted this cluded. I 'II never forget one talk to a women's group. It obligation to them when you agreed to give the talk, so now was entitled "Time On Your Hands." When I was introduced you must make good on your promise. the program chairperson said, "Hands On Your Time." When If you keep the three S's in mind, you shouldn't I got up I corrected her and said, "Hands on your time sounds run into trouble. There are certain signs that will tell you when like it will be a dirty talk, but I have to disappoint all of you you are losing your audience. because it isn't." I couldn't have asked for a better way to 1. Several are sound asleep. start the talk because right off I was able to get the feel of 2. Someone is sitting there with a blank stare and a the audience (excuse the pun). I think one old girl kind of had smile on their face. This means they are not her eye on me. Of course I didn't encourage her. I have to hearing a word you're saying; rather they are admit she did have terrific legs for an eighty-five-year-old. probably thinking about an erotic experience they Take some time to sit down and make an outline had last week. of a talk you would like to give to a small group. There are 3. Half the audience gets up and leaves. The other a myriad of subjects from which to choose. Be sure to pick half is either sleeping or have smiles on their one with which you are familiar. "The History of Time," faces. "Clock makers of America," "American Watch Industry," 4. When the audience starts having a 'sing-a-long' "The Development of the Wristwatch," and "How Do Quartz after you are a minute and a half into your talk.

32 Horologi.cal Times/April 1989 5. Worst of all is when they start to throw things at podium while I was waving an American flag and humming you. Small things aren't too bad, but when it's "God Bless America." This will get them every time-except, chairs and other pieces of furniture you had better of course, if you're giving a talk in some foreign country. get the message that things aren't going your way. There may be a time when you are asked to give a 6. When they start to look at their watches every talk to your local watchmakers group. Don't let this scare five seconds. you and don't think there is nothing you can say that will 7. When they start to tap on their watches and hold teach them something. For example, how about a nice talk them up to their ears to hear if they are running. on your experiences with the escape wheel cap jewel on a 8. When the last one left is your wife and she gets F F59-21? It may not sound like much but if you think about up and leaves. it for a minute you could probably talk for hours on this All of the above are considered good indications that subject. either you or your talk is lacking. If you feel you are losing When you are finished with your talk, just don't your audience because one or more of the above takes place, stand there and wait for a reaction from the audience, if don't give up. There are ways to regain their attention. For there's still one left. You can have your choice of moseying, instance, you can always fake a heart attack or try slashing sashaying, or hunkering down to your seat. If you decide on your wrists. This never fails to gain the audience's sympathy. hunkering down, be careful you don't slip and break your If it doesn't, you're really in deep trouble. Don't try crying. hunker! On second thought, give it a try. Just because it never has That's all for this month. I know there is a lot to worked for me doesn't mean it won't work for you. absorb in just one lesson, but I have to put together a talk for Once I had a very successful talk. It was entitled next week. I'm going to call it "The Clock Repairman and "The Use of Hairspring Collets in Quartz Watches." The talk Moo Goo Gai Pan" or "How to Clean a Mainspring with Chop­ itself was about as thrilling as watching someone pick their sticks." teeth, but it went over big. I had someone escort me to the

1989 AWi BENCH COURSES The American Watchmakers Institute will be sponsoring bench AUGUST courses throughout 1989 covering the following subjects: 13 Retrofitting & Casing (quad cities) IL - IA * Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair 19-20 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Warren, 0 H * Advanced Quartz Watch Repair * Retrofitting & Casing SEPTEMBER * Introduction to Clock Repair * Advanced Clock Repair 9-11 Advanced Clock Repair Salt Lake City, UT * Servicing the Atmos Clock 11-15 Introduction to Clock Repair Winston Salem, NC 17 Retrofitting & Casing Niagara Falls, NY Below is a listing of the seminars scheduled to be held in the 23-24 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Springfield, MO next five months and their locations. If you are interested in information regarding any of these courses, please send the coupon at right to AWi Central. r------MAY I am interested in your bench course to be presented on ______20-22 Advanced Clock Repair Ft. Wayne, IN 22-25 Introduction to Clock Repair Columbia, MO at (location): ______

JUNE Please send more information. 17-18 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Lexington, KY Name·------~ JULY Address. ______15-17 Advanced Clock Repair Hartford, CT 16 Retrofitting & Casing Rapid City, SO City ______State ____ _ Zip ____ 17-21 Introduction to Clock Repair Utica, NY AWi BENCH COURSES P.O. Box 11011 Cincinnati, OH 45211 April 1989/Horological Times 33 [}:{]@[Q)@§ ~@[Q)@§ (S@[Q)@§

John A. Nagle

TIPS FROM A FRIEND

lot of time is spent criticizing and belittling modern troduction of jewels did not really hit the bearing wear prob­ clock movements. I'm not impressed nor pleased lem. Normally there is little wear occurring at the low end fi with the current product. However, operating a full- of the gear trains. Our problem is at the beginning of the train. time clock shop puts me in contact with just about every type That is where the real power is being exerted. of clock out there. Given the choice of complaining about Closer examination will reveal that bearing wear is a situation that is here to stay or seeking ways to properly not an exclusive trademark of the clock plates. It is quite service the clocks, I 'II choose the latter. Every generation common to have extreme wear in the mainspring barrel and of repairmen have had their share of problem children. At one barrel cap bearing. Many companies use a thin, brass-plated time it was poor quality castings, improperly seasoned wood, steel barrel cap in their mainspring barrels. Like metals on like or the experiment with steel plate clock movements. These metals have always been considered a practice to avoid in are the examples that quickly come to my mind. Repairmen machine work. were able to overcome these problems just as we will learn to If we go one step further we will also notice a waxy, handle our current situations. corroded-appearing surface on pinions and arbors. This is Our first step is to determine what faults consistently probably a reaction or breakdown in the steel or plating used appear in the various movements. In my case, I kept a file on the steel. I used numerous methods in attempting to card on each movement, noting different things that seemed correct this situation with mixed results. a little unusual. It didn't take long for a pattern to emerge. The pivots are also in the same boat. If you chuck I now know which movements would have corroded pinions, one up in your lathe and burnish it, turn it down and polish it, pitted pivots, unusual bearing wear, short term chiming, etc., you will still have a pitted surface staring at you. and poor timekeeping. At first it was very frustrating knowing A quick review tells us that we have bearing, pivot, what I was going to be facing in the future. Thousands of and pinion problems. What do we do about it? these clocks were going to be sold and they were all going to If you don't want to service the movement you can have these problems! I would be called to service them and I probably buy a new movement and install it. The customer had to start devising realistic methods to successfully service starts from scratch with a new movement. them. I will now attempt to share them with you. Parts are available for most clock movements cur­ All clocks eventually require cleaning. Because of rently being produced and are fairly inexpensive. Rather than the method and materials used in making the older clocks, repair parts, you can install new ones. it was sometimes possible to run an assembled clock move­ Finally you can repair parts and adapt the movement ment through an ultrasonic cleaner, rinse, dry, lubricate, and so that it actually becomes a better clock. Noted clockmaker you were on your way (never a proper method). You are David Arnold suggested repivoting the second arbors using a running an exercise in futility if you do that with a current good steel. He faced off pivots, used a center drill to start product. It must be completely torn down, no dunking al­ the hole, and drilled to size to get the desired hole. Having lowed. When all parts have been properly cleaned you will previously cut a supply of steel plugs it was no trouble at all see why it is necessary to do this. Wear usually occurs in barrel to drive in a plug and polish. You now have a properly pol­ arbor bearings, barrel and cap, and the second wheel bearings. ished pivot. Due to the pressure at those bearings, I used If you examine enough movements you will see that the in- bronze bushings. A new American-made brass bushing is

34 Horological Times/April 1989 available that is also hard enough to do the job. Keep in mind You can also install a new balance unit. This unit that sooner or later something will give and wear begins in the runs in jeweled bearings and is more susceptible to the fluc­ bearing area. In my opinion it is better that the wear occur in tuation of power being provided by the mainsprings. Bearings the bearing rather than in the pivot. must be clean and oiled with a light oil. LaPerle clock oil Something else to consider is the heavy pressures works pretty good. Because of the constant pressure, the at the lower train bearings. Rather than rely on the standard lower jewel and pivot will eventually begin to wear. When clock oils, why not try a high pressure lubricant? Quaker this occurs it will probably be easiest to just insert a new State makes a gear lubricant SAE 80 that is suitable. Ex­ balance assembly. periment with· some high pressure lubricants. Keep records The final area to discuss is the greasing of the various of what you use so that you can check your results. friction points. As slight as they may seem, these frictions Barrel bearing wear is another probiem that has to put a strain on the gear train and help to contribute to pre­ be corrected. A cocked barrel will definitely not transmit mature bearing wear. I use Alemite CD-2 General Purpose a continuous, consistent energy flow. One problem is that the Lubricant®. Where do we grease? Easy! Wherever like metals barrel arbor is made of the same steel used in the second are working against each other is a good place to start. Con­ arbor pivots. If you polish (as good as possible) and rebush tact areas between strike and chime release levers and the barrel bearings with a bronze or tough brass bushing you will working edges of cams and lifting devices need grease. Any­ get decent results. If you choose to use a new barrel assembly thing that applies tension and has a friction at the contact be sure to use a good grease on the bearing area. This will surface-tension springs, flat springs, etc.-also need grease. help a great deal in reducing the rate of wear. Don't fall into The tails of striking and chiming hammers rest against a ten­ the trap of sticking strictly to the horological lubricants. sion spring, bar, etc. There is a lot of pressure. This requires That era has passed. The manufacturers are not really keeping grease. Apply grease in a light film. As in oiling, too much pace with the situations we must now face. grease is not the answer as it will foul levers and, in some The pinion surface never cleans up to the finish that instances, provide a form of friction. it should have. If you use a mild pumice stone and oil mixture I am sure that you have found other methods and followed by a rinse and then polish with diamantine, you better solutions. I just thought that by sharing my thoughts can obtain a good workable pinion surface. If that is more I might motivate you to lend us some of your tips. Next work than you care to do, buy a new wheel pinion unit and month I 'II begin a series on tips to use in servicing electric install it. clocks. See you then. The driving force of the clock is the mainspring. It sure is a slighted thing. While the strike and chime mainspring can usually be reholed and given proper power, I am of the opinion that the time mainspring should be replaced if it shows any sign of setting or needing reholing. In any case, the springs are cheap enough so, if you have any doubts, WANTED just install a new mainspring. It is imperative that the main­ springs are always removed from the barrels to be cleaned and checked. Proper lubrication is also very important. I use ''·• ~ R E.K.N. Mainspring Grease®. It's available from Merritt's :. ~ ' . " Antiques in Douglasville, PA. It molecularly bonds to the ·~ spring surface so that even after the grease dries, a slippery film remains. Don't slight the mainsprings. The suspended balance units are not isochronal. As your energy output from the mainspring varies, so will your timekeeping. A quality, properly lubricated mainspring should provide the HIGHEST PRICES PAID consistent energy to allow you to obtain good accurate time­ keeping. WE BUY-SELL-REPAIR We now have a good energy flow to our escapement. ANTIQUE WATCHES- ROLEX- CARTIER - PIAGET The escapement used is a good unit, though mostly mis­ AUDEMARS- PATEK PHILIPPE - VACHERON understood by repairmen. The secret here is to have a clean COMPLICATED WATCHES- CHRONOGRAPHS balance unit. In the suspended balance unit fluids tend to collect in the balance tube. There are numerous ways to Free Estimates Alfredo Castro clean this tube. I use a soapy ammonia water solution because Complete NAWCC #84972 Restorations AWi #15673 it cuts through the grease and old oils. I then rinse the unit in water and blow out the tube using a bellows. I then rinse the hexane or naptha and once again blow out with the TU/tfl WATCH CO. bellows. Then dry the unit with your normal dryer. The 36 N.E. 1st STREET, SUITE 360 balance will have a clean springiness to it if properly cleaned. Seybold Diamond Exchange - (305) 358-8175 Check back issues of the Horological Times as we had quite a Miami, Florida 33132 variety of methods to clean this unit. Use the one that works TOLL FREE 1 (800) 843-8974 for you.

April 1989/Horological Times 35 CLOCK TBOUBLESHOOTINC

©1989, Leo A. Jaroslaw. All rights reserved by author. Leo A. Jaroslaw

A DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEMS APPI~OACH PART SIX

fter a four-part introduction to the system, last time flow charts. If you are just joining us, please refer back to the fi we discussed textually some troubles that can be previous issues to learn the system (Horological Times, Octo­ checked while the clock is still in the case. We will now get ber '88 to February '89). into the meat of the program primarily with troubleshooting

TROUBLESHOOTING FLOW CHART #3 GENERAL TIME TRAIN PROBLEM: Clock Stops SITUATION: Movement removed from case

clock power on work pendulum stops 1--_._-1 crutch by hand observe T.scape­ wheel

START

test 'scape y y wheel with finger if free-ck 4th I whl/arbor then I proceed I bind in system - wheels,pinions, arbors,pivots & I pivot bearings if free-power (holes) not reaching this point

c eek secon arbor/wheel rotate wheel by let down spring for freedom ...,.__ -1 hand against spng/wt tension or remove weight

irs ar or with spring or opposite normal weight,difficul direction of to check rotation

36 Horological Times/April 1989 TROUBLESHOOTING FLOW CHART #4 GENERAL TIME TRAIN

PROBLEM: Clock Stops SITUATION: Movement removed from case

observe lock/ check crutch­ drop action pendulum rod repair and slot/pin/loop retest of escapement visually and by feel

checi< 2nd wheel check pendulum again without END suspension power spring --- Ref: 4.01

ENO repair and retest

problem isolated visually check to arbor and/or arbor and associated comp­ associated c:.orilp­ onents --- bnents --- REF : 3.D2 REF:3.01 ENO

repair and retest

REFERENCES KEY TEST 3.01 - Visually check arbor and associated components for condition: wheel, pinion, teeth, bent arbor/pivot, FOR rough/scored/tapered pivots, worn bearing holes, and/or dried/gummy oils. QUARTZ WATCHES

3.02 - Problem isolated to arbor and/or associated com­ ponents. Sight, feel, and experience will determine the causal factor(s) and the required service/repair/ The "KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES" replacement. Then retest. by Ewell Hartman, CMW is a quick and simple method of locating the problem in a quartz 4.01 - Check pendulum suspension spring for cracks, creases, and twists. Repair or replace as necessary. analog movement. The only tool required is a meter.

Material and instructions for learning this test Next time we will continue with the same problem. is supplied by the AWi-ELM Trust as part of their educational work. There is no charge to any group wishing to learn this test. There are great benefits to learning this in a group setting. HAVING However, for individuals who may not be able TECHNICAL AWi HOTLINE to participate in a group, it is available to PROBLEMS? (513) 661-4636 them also. For more information call or write to the A WI office for an information sheet and application form.

April 1989/Horological Times 37 TIHIE P11c1~L1 IAAAEL

Marshall F. Richmond, CMW REMOl!NTINC RINCS PART 3

emounting gent's rings is probably more difficult correct places (Figure 1 D). Next a graver is used to cut into than remounting ladies' rings. Most of them cannot the metal at the corners and then raised to make a prong and Rbe assembled from findings so we have to either push it over the girdle of the diamond (Figures 11 and 1J). carry a large inventory of mountings or rely on using catalog With a beading tool a bead can be formed at each corner from pictures to sell the mountings. The customer is often dis­ the prong that was pushed over the girdle with the graver. appointed when informed that the ring mounting has been Applying pressure against the prong with the beading tool and discontinued or of a delay when backordered. Often when a rocking motion with the wrist from the outside toward the several styles close to the one your customer would like are center of the stone, a bead can be formed (Figures 1 K and available, they can be ordered on memorandum and shown 1 L). to the customer who can select one that is suitable. Although After the beads are formed, the excess metal from this is time consuming, it is more practical than carrying the top of the girdle of the diamond to the edge of the plate a large inventory. A large inventory is only practical when can be cut away. Use a flat bottom graver with the bottom a large business in remounts is being carried out. As there are polished with 4/0 buff paper. This makes a mirror finish on many styles of gent's mountings for all sizes and shapes of the graver so when it cuts the gold top it leaves a mirror finish stones, it would be hard to stock all of them. One solution called a brite cut (Figure lG). This can be cut in two steps is some specialty suppliers that stock castings and die struck if the stone is smaller than the plate, enough to allow room blank mountings which are cataloged. These blank mountings between the girdle of the stone and the edge of the plate. are not finished when bought because the stones have to be If not, only one step is needed. Using two steps leaves two fitted which may require alterations. This involves filing, distinct ridges and one step leaves one ridge on the outer edge sawing, gold soldering, and even making bezels. For round of the plate. Using a milgrain tool, a milgrain edge can be put faceted stones or diamonds the top plate must be installed on the outer ridge and also the inner ridge if the two steps to fit the stone to be set. are used (Figure 1 H). To make this type of setting requires Another good source for mountings is to learn much practice. The use of the graver for finishing the brite casting and cast them yourself. Casting equipment is avail­ cut makes one appreciate having learned the art of hand able from most any material and equipment supplier. The engraving. Some schools teaching diamond setting strongly same suppliers can supply all the needed materials for making recommend that a course in hand engraving be taken before molds and wax patterns. With this kind of equipment and starting the diamond setting course. know-how most any piece of jewelry that you could find Using the bar type or the pin point settings for men's can be duplicated by making a pattern and casting it. Wax diamond mountings requires much less skill in setting the patterns for rings are also available from many casting sup­ stone, so it is easy to understand why the old flat setting pliers. These wax patterns cover a great variety of styles, is seldom used anymore. shapes, and sizes and are much less expensive than making It is more difficult to find mountings to fit colored them yourself if you consider your time. They can only be stones and shaped stones such as square, rectangular (cushion). used once_ They are made in the mold and then burnt out navette (marquise). octagon (emerald), antique, oval, heart, after the mold is hardened. The mold is then ready for cen­ round faceted, round cabochon, oval cabochon, barrel, and trifugal or vacuum casting. The cost of stocking a wide variety pear (teardrop). Besides the 12 shapes listed, ther-e are a great of these wax patterns is very small compared to stocking gold variety of sizes. These are standard recognized shapes and all mountings. are not available in all sizes. With all the sizes and shapes of It seems that the greatest demand for gent's mount­ stones available it is easy to understand why it is almost ings are diamond rings with round, full-cut diamonds. It is impossible to always find a mounting to fit a given stone. necessary to know how to set the diamonds as well as how to Even more difficult, if not impossible, is to find replace the top plate with one that suits the size of the stone mountings to fit stones that are not standard cut such as being remounted. The old method for setting diamonds in many turquoise stones. Mountings must be hand crafted for gent's rings was with a flat setting which was just a flat plate. these. Most turquoise stones are set with a full bezel and in It had to be drilled in the center with a hole smaller than the silver. Silver may be a little harder to work than karat gold, size of the diamond to be set (Figures 1A and 1 B). Next a but anyone with full experience in working gold can, with setting bur the size of the diameter of the diamond at the very little practice, adapt to working silver. Most soft stones girdle is used to cut a seat. The top of the girdle must be below require special consideration in handling and in the method the surface of the plate, deep enough to be able to make beads of setting, like a turquoise being fully bezel set. Other stones and push them over the edge of the girdle (Figures 1 C and 11). can be set with a part bezel or even prongs. Pearls can be The corners can be marked so that beads can be formed in the set · in a clutch four prong setting but, being perfectly round,

38 Horological Times/April 1989 it is difficult to get the prongs tight enough to keep the remove the stones. When I sell a remounting job it is explained pearl from turning. It is best to have a peg in the bottom of to the customer that the old gold value in the old rings or the setting and use a half-drilled pearl. It should be cemented jewelry can be applied to the cost of the total remounting onto the peg before tightening the prongs. This is the most charge. My method of determining the amount to be allowed secure method that I know of to set a pearl. Pear-shaped for the old gold is to weigh it, calculate the weight of fine stones are also difficult to set. They can be prong set with gold, and check the daily price of gold on the gold market two prongs on the round end and two prongs, almost together, and then the value of the gold content. I allow 70% of this on the point. Marquise can be set with four prongs the same as value to apply to the cost of the ring remounting. I feel that oval, antique, or barrel shaped. Heart-shaped stones can be set 70% is a fair profit for me as there will be a refining cost in the same as pear shaped. Octagon or emerald cut stones are a having the gold put back in workable ingots. The amount paid rectangular stone with the corners cut off and can be set with for old gold is completely in the hands of the buyer and I have four prongs covering the corner cut offs. known of some who only allow 50%. I have always sent my old gold to a refiner to be made in sheets 1 Y,mm thick and USEFUL TOOLS wire 0.8mm in diameter in 14k yellow and white gold. This When remounting stones from old rings there are has always kept me with an adequate supply of workable several tools that can be used to a great advantage. A few gold so I never have to purchase gold stock. hand gravers (round bottom, flat bottom, and knife edge) are Another source of extra profit when selling remounts useful in cutting seats, raising burs for beads, and for trimming is selling stones to add to those being remounted. These can places that cannot be reached with a file or rotary tools. They be diamonds or genuine or synthetic colored stones, so it are also helpful for brite cut finishing. Beading tools are a must is also a good idea to have access to a good diamond and stone for forming, finishing, and tightening beads. A beading block is supplier. I use a stone supplier that sends update catalogs very handy for reshaping the concave depression in the end of regularly so I always have access to current stone prices. This the beading tool. For forming beads where the metal is over helps greatly when estimating the cost of the total remounting the girdle of the stone, cup burs are very handy and effective job. and can save a lot of time. They are available in a number of Over the years I have found a way to beat the job sizes and can be used with the flex-shaft tool or even used in a of remounting rings in many cases. I rebuild the old mount­ pin vise. A hand burnishing tool is a necessity for burnishing ings. This appeals to many people, especially when their old bezels and can also be used to burnish down some pores in the engagement and wedding rings are involved. Some people, metal so they do not show. If using unfinished castings or for sentimental or other reasons, would like to keep their when altering, a good selection of needle files are almost a originals. If they are rebuildable they can be made heavier necessity along with a six-inch coarse and a six-inch fine, and more durable than they were originally. Whichever way flat file and a half-round in fine and coarse six inches long. you go, remounting is a profitable business. The jewelers' saw is one of the most used tools in remounting. The next article will be a discussion on rebuilding I use 4/0 blades for most work and 6/0 blades for very narrow rings. cuts around prongs and setting tops around stones after setting. NICKLE SILVER: Probably the most misleading term used per­ taining to metals. It has no silver content but is an alloy of nickel, INCREASING PROFITS copper, and zinc. It is sometimes called German Silver. A source of increasing your profits while selling remounts is the old gold in the old jewelry from which you

FIGURE 1 A B c D

E F G H

J

April 1989 / Horologi,cal Times 39 BOOK REVIEW

I. W.C. International Watch Co., Schaffhausen by Hans F. ruptcy petition. The authors, however, are generous in their Tolke, Jurgen King. IO"xl l", 238 pages, hard covers, 153 b/w praise of Jones' "great achievement and courage in perse­ illustrations, 110 in color. Pub. by Superior Watch Services, vering as long as he did and in establishing the factory that has Brooklyn, NY 11219; (718) 851-5306, 1987,@ $180.00. also persevered to this day." The name Fred A. Seeland, also an American who To American watch collectors, this book should have an es­ followed Jones, is not treated as kindly. Settling in Schaff­ pecial interest. While its name implies some internationality, hausen in 1877, Seeland, having reserved his residence in its name actually is derived from its origin by the American Schaffhausen a year earlier. He too received his training at Florentine Ariosto Jones. Jones was associated with George Waltham. He assumed the position of "Manager" with a ten­ Reed and was associated with Edward Howard's watch man­ year contract, this despite his unfamiliarity with the German ufacturing enterprise. and French-speaking personnel, languages with which he was The founding of this reputable company was rather not conversant. Seeland was the designer of a new high-quality volatile with many trials and tribulations. Jones' goal was to movement at an inopportune time, using new machinery and use American manufacturing ideas in a Swiss surrounding and increased production costs. with the then cheap but skilled labor, end up with a product In 1879, Seeland disappeared mysteriously during an designed to compete on the American market. inventory recording which revealed suspicious record dis­ Jones, born in New Hampshire, trained probably by tortions. He was divested of his authority. A subsequent three­ his clockmaking uncles, worked for the E. Howard Watch & week prison sentence without record of having been served is Clock Co. When Howard's chief watchmaker George Reed left mentioned. The company then underwent a second failure to open his own watchmaking plant in Malden, F .A. Jones went and reorganization. with him. Except for active military duty during the Civil The newly structured organization with Swiss prin­ War which included action at Gettysburg and afterwards some cipals in 1880 and a temporary name change that in 1883 re­ short indulgence in a steam appliance business, Jones returned instated the "International" in its name (J. Rauschenbach's to the horological industry. International Watch Factory) did a little better. The term Because of the shortage of labor in the U.S. and the "International" was again dropped from 1892 until 1971 inducements of water power at the Rhine Falls near Schaff­ when it became known as The I.W.C. Watch Factory, Inter­ hausen, Jones selected this community despite its distance national Watch Co. Its current title is I.W.C. International from the actual horological centers in Switzerland for this Watch Co. During those intervals it was a family-operated ambitious project. (Rauschenbach-Vogel) company. The decision to offer their While there have been various records of the Jones' products to include other than American markets seemed to founding in 1869 and involvement with the I.W. Co., accounts, have turned the fortunes of this company to the better. some depending on the author's perspective are unkind to The authors record the industrial and technical ad­ Jones. Others are either denigrative or minimize his influence. vances using hydraulic and electrical power. E.J. Hornberger, American accounts, of course, are kinder. This book's authors, a son-in-law of Rauschenbach, became sole owner from 1929 however, appear to be more objective, giving Jones due credit until 1955. Hans Ernst Hornberger was the last private owner and chronicle the natural turn of events which put insur­ from the time of his father's death until his own demise in mountable handicaps in his path. Some of these were the tre­ 1986. At 6'4" he was quite an athlete and an imposing figure. mendous popularity of the American watch in America where Trained as a watchmaker in the Geneva Horological Technicum, he intended to compete, a newly instituted protective tariff he later became a silver medalist as an oarsman in the 1936 of 25% on imported watches, and a post-Civil War depression Olympics and winner at the Henley Regattas of 1935 and in the Ui1ited States. Furthermore, the rampant importation of 1936 team. He was a most successful president of the I.W. Co. "fake" American watches of Swiss origin contaminated the The authors include accounts of the damage to that reputation of grades of Swiss-made timepieces. factory during WWII when U.S. airmen "mistakingly" bombed The authors introduce a strong case for Aaron L. the factory, due, it is reported, to the state of the irregular Dennison's seminal influence in the founding of this company, border-proximity with Germany. During that time some Swiss citing his friendship with Jones, and Dennison's long-term and many Americans giggled at the official reports of that residence in Switzerland. Dennison eventually settled in company's misfortune, especially when it was known in this England as a successful case manufacturer which has been in country and elsewhere that that company had sold to the operation until rather recent times. Dennison's son is even in German government-and that America's planes were equipped the Swiss Inland Revenue, indicated as a watch manufacturer. with the famous Norden bombsight that "could drop a bomb The authors also cite Chas. L. Kidder as an associate into a pickle barrel from 20,000 feet." of Jones in Schaffhausen. To American collectors, C.L. Kidder Most of this book is interestingly devoted to the is better known for his involvement later with the Cornell many products of that company from the first Jones calibre, Watch Co. of Chicago (that factory's picture is included in the second attributed to Seeland, and numerous interesting this book). innovative models including the modern ultra-complicated Jones imported American screw-making, pinion­ watches. cutting, and escapement-making machines from the H.E. A virtual complete listing of the products from the Warren Company of Waltham. company's beginnings to current times is included. This pro­ Jones terminated his connections with the Interna­ vides dates, jewel counts, and distinctive features. Also with tional Watch Co. in 1875 with that company filing a bank- this list is a register of serial production numbers and calibres 40 Horologi.cal Times/April 1989 which includes some earlier ebauches supplied by Elgin. er to display the excellence of his craft and not to be con­ Today, the term "Pallweber" denotes an analog, cealed by the casemaker's or cabinetmaker's art. mechanical watch with digital figures shown through a blank Derek Roberts, a well-respected horological author­ dial's apertures. This was an International Watch Co. special­ ity, cites Austria's following in France's footsteps in producing ty, and its association with Joseph Pallweber who supplied these timepieces. When in the early 19th century England's various mechanical solutions for movements to display numer­ clockmakers seized on this idea, the French had virtually als was a deceivingly nonsimple task. ceased to produce these except with occasional but excep­ Observatory competitions, colored photographs of tional examples, many of museum quality. many types of pocket watches which include various types of The clocks pictured are, for the most part, unusual winding and setting systems, special order gold cases are shown. and of high quality. Pictured in color are clocks by Merlin Many cases were in high relief chasing and repousse, enamel­ whose timepieces live up to the same legendary name. His work, engraving, and carvings with figures. There are patent clocks contain unusual escapements and time-indicating de­ regulators, balances, setting-winding mechanism patents, cal­ vices. Merlin is described as "a truly remarkable man of endric devices, and 23 pages of jump-figures with digital pat­ Belgian birth who, at nineteen, was invited by the French ent systems described as Pallweber systems. Academy of Art and Science to settle in Paris." Six years Numerous custom-built watches with niello cases, later he emigrated to England, and in 1760 to work with enamel portraits of titled owners and historically famous James Cox, one of horological history's ingenious clockmakers. personages are shown, many in full color. Delicately skele­ Other clocks shown is one attributed to George tonized and highly decorated movements, cases depicting Jamieson of London. It has an odd escapement, with plan­ sporting and hunting events as trophies and competition etary, horizontal dials indicating minutes, longitude shown on awards, chronographs, repeaters, perpetual calendars, some equatorial bands calibrated from zero (London) to 180°, a with "grande complications" are also included. sun pointer to local time (solar), and a zenith ring-bearing Military wristwatches, self winders made by that com­ compass. Another flat, horizontal disc shows the time in many pany, as well as interesting self-winding patents by other mak­ parts of the earth. Further, this clock indicates the perpetual ers are included. Early company wristwatches made for the calendar with a chapter ring showing Greenwich Mean Time military with stampings on the back in high relief show mili­ and an orbiting ball moon (Halifax Moon) with hemispheres tary leaders of the German armies in WWI. of silver and dark blue which rotate around a lunar ring That company's entry into the quartz era exhibits against which it points to the moon's age. This clock also has the tuning fork, Swiss Beta 2, some F.A. Porsche designs and rack-striking on an inverted bell atop its central column. This chronographs, the Da Vinci perpetual calendar wrist models clock is dated as of the last decade of the 18th century. together with luxury watches bedecked with precious gems. Clocks with upside-down Y-frames usher in the sec­ A ten-page serialized production number with dates and model ond decade of the 19th century, copying at first the early numbers is followed by a fine separate index of personages pattern of French skeleton clocks but introducing chain-fusee mentioned and another by subject matter complete this fine devices on extra-large fusee wheels, some greater in diameter document, all in excellent binding and inside covers with than their dials. Others of this origin had 120 toothed escape color hand-painted drawings of classical watches by that wheels. These details are clearly visible in the very clear color company. The comprehensive coverage which includes much photographs. peripheral information should make this book attractive to Skeleton clocks whose framework imitate famous the serious historian and watch collector. architectural edifices such as York Minster, Canterbury Ca­ Henry B. Fried thedral, and Westminster Abbey, for example, influenced many makers. The clocks with chiming mechanisms whose framework followed these architectures were termed '-'cathe­ dral frames." Derek Roberts shows the photographs of these BRITISH SKELETON CLOCKS by Derek Roberts. 8W'xl 1", cathedrals and other famous structures besides these types of 271pages,45 color plates, 355 b/w illustrations. Pub. 1988 by clocks. Antique Coll. Club, Ltd.,@ $69.50. Musical skeleton clocks appeared at the turn of the mid-19th century, probably popularized by the newly in­ stalled clock atop the tower of the houses of Parliament with In reviewing thi~ book which deals, as its restrictive title dic­ tates, on English clocks, some readers might inquire, "Were with famous Westminster chimes. The dating of such clocks there any others?" There were-and one might refer to F .B. is covered and characterized by the typical style of the frame types. Some involved floral design-frame clocks revealing Royer-Collard's book Skeleton Clocks, first published in 1969, in which such types of clocks from Europe and America are great delicacy exceeded by James Gowland and dated 1851. The famous Scott Memorial in Edinburgh became the subject pictured and described. While Derek Roberts' book on British skeleton of skeleton clockmaker Evans. The story of its origin is well clocks does contain some clocks and illustrations that appear recorded with good examples of this horological memorial in Collard's earlier treatise, the treatment is different and the to Scott. use of color does make one appreciate the real attraction and The Congreve clock story and that of its maker are beauty of the skeleton clock. included together with drawings by David Penny, the well­ Mr. Roberts does give due credit to the French who known horological artist, revealing the details of this unusual but simple escapement. Congreve referred to this as his "ex­ introduced such clocks in the mid-18th century, although he does picture an earlier Gothic iron chamber clock of the late treme detached escapement" and he used this in a few of his 16th century which is merely iron framework with exposed clocks. Another shown is his minute impulse free pendulum wheels and a wide chapter ring for a dial. Another with a regulator, also illustrated by David Penny. visible cross-beat escapement is of Belgian origin dates from Exceptional intricate architectural types are included 1630. The real origin, Mr. Roberts contends, was by the mak- in this book, one depicting the building of the Royal Pavilion

April 1989/Horologi,cal Times 41 made by Smiths of Clerkenwell. This has a deadbeat verge springs, screws, bars, links, and other parts. Also covered is escapement similar to that of the Merlin clock mentioned instruction on recognizing the sizing codes impressed on such earlier. bracelets and how to interpret their messages. Among some of the rarer skeleton clocks pictured How to order parts correctly and adjust their lengths and discussed are: a one-year clock, pyramidical framed, in a professional manner is shown, making each operation ap­ balance wheel clock, a chronometer escapemented clock, pear easy. The proper approach to length adjustment with coup perdu, gravity escapement, and a grasshopper escapement sliding clasps and the simple tools used insure a perfect job. clock. Identifying the removable links (not all are), their There is a special chapter on the prolific makers of distinctive identifying markings, their screws, arrows, and use such clocks by the Condliff family of clockmakers spanning of special snaps and pliers are clearly demonstrated. The use of from 1816 to 1940. In this 16-page chapter the better clocks correctly sized screwdrivers and use with bracelets with screw­ from the Condliff family are pictured. One has a four-springed plug pins is important. Pin pushers are shown and the proper barrel running its clock for one full year. William Smith of methods of removal and re-insertion are shown. Some screw­ Musselburgh (1847-1903) produced clocks with columns but pipe types of links generally are threaded at only one end. whose hollows housed a helical spring which supplied power How to properly approach and identify which end is the re­ to the fusee-regulated train (reminiscent of the clocks made by movable one is worthy of this easily followed instruction. Connecticut maker Ives, with his wagon-spring powered 30- Locking-grip clasps, bracelet cutting pliers, and other special day clocks of the early 19th century). tools are demonstrated. Some French skeleton clocks are pictured as well in This is an excellent teaching device and is ideal for color. There is one with an intermediate wheel of 276 teeth store clerks, jewelers, watchmakers, or for anyone who must and an escape wheel of 80 teeth. Others from France show wait on customers. Fallowing these well-paced instructions epicyclic trains, explained also by David Penny's drawings. should make anyone who has learned from it appear as a pro­ Maker MacDowell and his helical geared skeleton clocks, fessional, competent person to their customers. glass-wheeled clocks by Edwards of Stourbridge are some of Henry B. Fried the tour d'force skeletonized clocks shown in color. \lCIE A section of escapement drawings by Penny illustrate the pin-wheel, coup perdu, chafcutter (de Baufre ), gravity, de­ tent, rack and pin-wheel, grasshopper escapements. A skeleton clock run by electrical energy contains a remontoire and compound pendulum. Longcased clocks with visible skeleton­ ANTIQUE WATCHES ized movements and an all-ivory clock complete this ex­ MISSING FROM BALTIMORE position. A final chapter-appendix describes a visit to a Clerken­ MUSEUM OF ART well clock factory, and a detailed index complete this work. Anyone vaguely interested in these eye-appealing timepieces Sixteen I 8th-century English pocket watch­ should obtain this well-organized and illustrated book. es valued at approximately $150,000 were Henry B. Fried missing and presumed stolen from The Bal­ timore Museum of Art on February 25th. Brenda Richardson, Deputy Director *VIDEO REVIEW* for Art, said that the antique watches, most of them bequeathed to the institution in BRACELET ADJUSTING & SIZING, 30-minute video in­ struction in virtually all types of watch bracelets. Sponsored 1931 by Francis Burns Harvey, were stolen by Hattori Corp. of America, produced by Zantech, Inc., between 3:30 and 4:15 p.m. Most of the 1988. watches were gold and a few were decorated with small diamonds or pearls, although In reviewing this video tape, one is highly impressed not only with the professional execution and comprehensive coverage others are set with imitation paste gems. of this subject but by the up-close skillful demonstrations and Museum officials believe that because professional voice instructions. While the sponsor, Hattori the display case was very well secured, the Corp. of America, had the Zantech organization use Seiko products, there are so many different types of bracelets used theft must have been carefully planned. as models. This results in the tape virtually covering every Ms. Richardson was optimistic about recover­ bracelet type on the market. ing the missing watches because of physical Among the types in demonstration for sizing, adjust­ evidence found by the police and because ment, and repair are: trifold buckle with hinges, sliding clasps, bracelets with removable links, push-pin connectors, screw there were many paople in the Museum who and pipe types, locking grip clasps, "Ever" (stretch type) may have noticed suspicious activity. bands, Seiko-Flex expansion bracelets, curl-type stretch links, Anyone who saw any unusual ac­ snap-plug-ends, two-sided fixing pin types, and free-pin and tivity in the Museum at this time is urged to pipe types of bracelets. The close-up views are in sharp focus and the voice contact the Baltimore police. instruction ideally paced. The subject matter covers safety precautions against damage, marring new products, loss of

42 Horological Times/April 1989 Smile, Please!

BY LON KIMLER, CW

s watchmakers, clockmakers and goldsmiths, proud not feeling well that day or just a little "off," simply take the craftsmen al I, we often forget the importance of article in and promise to call the customer as soon as possible fi meeting and selling ourselves to our customers. about its condition. I know sometimes a long and meaning­ This can be especially true to those of us "behind the scenes" less discussion resulting in loss of time and/or hurt feelings -those who do the meat of the repair. Whether a large opera­ could have been avoided by simply following this rule! tion or the smallest shop, customer protocol can make or A variant of this rule is one we'll call the "switch." break your service department. If you have had or are having a problem with a customer, It can be too easily forgotten that the customer is by all means get a fellow worker to wait on the person. Occa­ responsible for our being there in the first place. The ma­ sionally we all have personality clashes, and the next person jority of customers that we deal with day to day will be may do just fine with the one you have trouble with. pleasant and amiable. They make our jobs even more reward­ For the ladies . . . please don't try to give your cus­ ing. It is, however, usually the most difficult and demanding tomer a lesson in feminine equality. I have seen countless ones that can make the biggest difference in our word-of­ lost customers because a "gentleman" requested to see "one mouth advertising, and as it follows, this is the bread and of the men." This is his prerogative and not an insult to your butter of our business. gender, just as it would be if the tables were turned (and they Being fortunate enough to be employed on the are occasionally). West Coast in one of the larger jewelry stores, selling and Patience is a virtue! Learn to spell and to visualize servicing such names as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, this very important word. In this day and age when many Omega, Corum, Baume-Mercier and Seiko, I get a lot of people "let their fingers do the walking" and so much time is first-hand experience dealing with a real variety of people. spent on the phone, be as patient and courteous as possible. The importance of a big smile and, above all, a willingness A first time visit to your store may be the outcome. to help the customer cannot be overstated. All the employees should remember they are a team. How many times have you yourself been the target Everyone working together can make a big difference, not of an incredibly rude sales clerk? The thought of returning to only in how long your day is but how well the store does. this store is remote. We can all identify with this attitude, WORK TOGETHER! especially well at this time of year after the biggest selling Minnesota has their Swedes, Texas their cowboys, season. I'm sure we have all had one too many run-ins with the midwest their farmers, and California their "nuts." Some­ this type of clerk. days I think they all know where our store is too! You never If there's one thing I've learned at the take-in coun­ know exactly where one of these will turn up either. One ter, it's that you really can't tell a book by its cover. The most Monday morning a finely dressed gentleman approached the casually dressed customer may pull a diamond studded Rolex repair counter requesting help finding a new band. His black President out of his pocket, or that lady in her acid washed suit coat looked fresh off the rack, as did the fancy white jeans may need new prongs on her 7-carat diamond ring. ruffled dress shirt. The red carnation in his lapel topped off So remember, looks can be and will be deceiving. Always the look. Not being able to see below the counter he was try to treat your customers with respect and dignity, it may standing in front of, I took it for granted his trousers matched. save you from an embarrassing situation. As I opened the display counter door, I heard chuckling I would like to say a few words about those im­ from my fellow workers at their benches. The door opening possibly difficult situations we sometimes find ourselves in. had allowed them to see what I couldn't. The customer's The diffusing of these predicaments can often save valuable shirttail was all that covered him! I quickly took the watch customers. he offered and out the door he raced ... not to be seen again ... Many times, especially when we're "backed up" but somehow I feel he will be returning for that new band. I with customers, we will inadvertently say the wrong thing know I can't wait! or make a rash decision. Don't be afraid to back down from a statement. The customer will respect you for it! If you're

April 1989/Horological Times 43 Thomas H. White

Strengthening Our Roots

hey have returned! Attacking on all four sides, they their professional knowledge. I do not see how they can keep T have encircled the house. Growing, spreading, multi­ up the knowledge that is required to maintain the roots that plying, and their influence daily becomes more irritating! keep our profession alive. I believe my trade demands that we While other competitors lie dormant, they have boldly seized unite with others in the way to build up and share informa­ the initiative and dominated the scene. The dandelions are tion of all the new ideas that are facing us this day. We should back! be doing this by attending all the guild meetings in our area Why are these plants so persistent? How can they (even though we might not participate), and thus increase our have returned so quickly after the last attack, before the wea­ knowledge. Also, we should attend any seminars or state con­ ther cooled? The answer lies in their roots. The root that was ventions that are held. Why not plan to attend our Affiliate left in the ground when the top was pulled off remained alive Chapter meeting along with the Board of Directors_meeting? and rejuvenated the plant. Of course, they were also cleaver Most of all, do you belong to AWi and your state guild? enough to scatter some seed for new plants, but those aren't By the way, this is the time of year we start to plan the ones that give me so much difficulty (yet). for our summer vacations. Why not try to spend a couple of The English word root, like its Hebrew and Greek days in relaxation by attending your state meeting or conven­ counterparts, also has a metaphorical meaning. It can speak tion? Consider visiting some of your family as part of the trip of the basis or foundation of things, as well as the line of to the June meeting in Cincinnati. Perhaps you could arrange descent of a person. Our roots are what keep us alive. In other to be at the Board of Directors meeting the first week, then words, our lives are fed through our "roots," which consist the second week would be for your family's vacation, such as of things such as what we do for a living, our schooling, our going to the beach, fishing, camping, boating, hiking, golfing, recreation, or our hobbies. Some started out as a way to re­ or many other things your family would love to do. Keep lieve our tension from a hard day at the office. this thought in the back of your mind: "The more knowledge Most watch- or clockmakers have had this profession I acquire, the better living I can provide." This will help you as their livelihood for a number of years. However, some strengthen your "roots" and allow you to enjoy your family, tradesmen do not want to attend meetings that will enhance AWI, guilds, and your profession.

44 Horological Times/April 1989 Assoc1ATION NEWS

NEW YORK Repair by Steve Black, Watchmaker's Use of the Meter by The Horological Society of New York held its first Ewell Hartman, Clock Pivot Polishing and Replacing by meeting of 1989 on February 6 at the Hotel Novotel. The Jim Harding, Atomic Clocks by Ed Phillips, and The History meeting opened with a moment of silence for Orville Hagans. of William Bond, Clockmaker by Carlene Stephens. President Howard Levy announced that Martha Homburger, If you are not familiar with the Horological Associa­ wife of Executive Committee member Paul Homburger, tion of Virginia and its service to the watchmaking, clock­ had passed away. Edward Faber, in behalf of Aaron Faber making and jewelry trades, this convention will provide you Jewelry, donated $200 to the Horological Society of New with an excellent opportunity to get to know the association. York in memory of Martha Homburger. If you have been a member of HA V but haven't been active The program for the meeting consisted of questions recently, it will be a perfect opportunity to renew your on horology directed to a panel of experts. They were all association. outstanding authorities in their fields and members of the For more information about the 1989 convention Horological Society of New York. They were: Harold Perlman, please contact convention chairman Mike Davidson, P.O. President of American Perfit Crystal Company; Jack Schecter, Box 160, Brookneal, VA 24528. Phone (804) 376-3510 former Manager Material Sales, Seiko Watch Company; Don business or (804) 376-5361 at home. Loke, President of Horological Works; Bernhard Stoeber, Technical Service Manager, North American Watch Company; Ben Matz, former Manager Technical Information Bureau, UPCOMING CONVENTIONS Bulova Watch Company; and Paul Homburger, former Tech­ Wisconsin Horologi.cal Society nical Specialist, Longines Watch Company. Annual Convention The discussion covered a wide variety of topics, April 28-30, 1989 ranging from crystals to watch company litigations, to antique Midway Motor Lodge - La Crosse, WI restorations, to ordinary service problems. Harold Perlman, American Perfit Crystal Company, Watchmakers Association of Pennsylvania announced that they have produced an audio-video tape on Annual Convention crystal installation. Also of special interest was a report from May 5-7, 1989 Ben Matz on the opening of the long-awaited updated horo­ Holiday Inn East - Lancaster, PA logical exhibit at the Smithsonian. Texas Watchmakers Association Annual Convention May 5- 7, 1989 Radisson Airport Hotel - San Antonio, TX

Horologi.cal Association of Virgi.nia Annual Convention May 5- 7, 1989 Hilton Hotel - Lynchburg, VA

Arizona Horologi.cal Association 11th Annual Convention May 20-21, 1989 The Embassy Suites - Tucson, AZ

Watchmakers Association of Ohio Howard Levy (left), President of the Horological Society of New Annual Convention York, receiving a check in the amount of $200.00 from Edward Faber July 28-30, 1989 of Aaron Faber Jewelry. The donation was in memory of Martha Parke University Hotel - Columbus, OH Hamburger.

VIRGINIA Iowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Association Convention and Trade Show The 1989 convention of the Horological Association September 9-10, 1989 of Virginia will be held at the Hilton Hotel in Lynchburg the Airport Hilton Inn - Des Moines, IA weekend of May 5, 6 and 7. Highlighting the convention on Sati.Irday will be a Florida State Watchmakers Association tour of the Hermle Clock Factory in Amherst, VA. Also Annual Convention included on this year's agenda will be a number of informative October 20-22, 1989 programs and workshops that are sure to be of interest. Hilton Inn Gateway - Kissimmee, FL Topics will include Electroplating by Jack Behrend, Jewelry

April 1989/Horologi.cal Times 45 New Products

SEIKO OFFERS UNIOUE ment (ultrasonic cleaners, clean· WALTHAM NEW TOUCH 'N GLOW ing wipes, dispensers), soldering INTERNATIONAL CLOCK DISPLAY supplies, static control products, Waltham has introduced a pres­ Seiko has introduced for Spring speciality electronic adhesives, tigious upmarket model with '89 a beautiful back-lit Touch 'N and more. All products are de­ water-resistant case in 18K gold. Glow clock display, created to at­ scribed in detail with specifica­ The watch features stylish bead· tract attention and complement tions, full-color photos, prices, ing and an engine-turned case its new Touch 'N Glow clock in­ and come with a guarantee. middle, plus a clear sapphire back troductions. The display features For a free copy of the through which to admire its lifelike action when the dial lights 1989 General Catalog and one elaborately worked mechanical up just as if a hand was touching year of technical supplements, movement. The 18K gold dial is it. A green glow dramatically write to: Contact East, P.O. Box fashioned in the Breguet style, blinks on and off illustrating 786, 335 Willow St. So., North with or without diamonds, gold Seiko's unique electrolumination Andover, MA 01845; (508) 682- hands, and diamond-tipped wind­ capability. 2000. ing crown. For men and women, The free-standing unit mea­ this timepiece comes with croco sures 8"W x 1l"H x 3"D and strap and gold clasp, or with an prominently features the Seiko contact east 18K gold bracelet. A pendant Sharp logo across the top. It can be version is also available. utilized as a window display or Contact Waltham Watch counter unit. Co., Div. of M.Z. Berger & Co., CHROMALOXSTEAMER

The new display is designed To Order, C.11 (509) 682-2000 Northern Blvd., Long Island City, FROM GESSWEIN Ori:.t.11(501)H•7HI to coordinate with Seiko's other NV 11101; (718) 361-7721. Gesswein's Chromalox Steamer al­ Touch 'N Glow promotional ma­ lows fast cleaning at up to 100 terials including a 4-color spread psi. Its large boiler accepts 2 gal· in Newsweek, a countercard, and Ions of water. the 1.5 Kw heating billboard. power means fast steam and less waiting time; the unit is supplied with a deluxe foot-controlled solenoid switch. The Chromalox Steamer comes with several safety fea­ tures: safety release valve, visible AERO POCKET WATCH water gauge, plastic protection A new, open-worked "skeleton" shield, steam pressure gauge, type watch now joins the collec· blow down drain valve, water tion of pocket watches from fill funnel and valve, adjustable Aero. It features a hunter case in dial thermostat, and fast-heat 10-micron goldplate, wi~h front element. It is UL- and CSA-ap­ and back lids. The outer lid is proved and built in accordance polished or engraved with a pol­ Waltham with requirements of the ASME. ished inner surface. The very Contact: Gemvein, P.O. elaborate open-worked movement Box 3998, 255 Hancock Ave., (Peseux 10Y." 7001, extra-thin Seiko SHARP INTRODUCES THIN Bridgeport, CT 06605; (203) design) is retouched by hand. DIAMOND DIAL MODELS 366-5400. Gesswein NEW CATALOG Contact Aero Watch SA, Sharp Watches has introduced FROM CONTACT EAST Chaussee De La Boine 20, CH· their new thin diamond dial A new 132-page source book free 2001, Neuchatel, Switzerland; quartz models retailing for $49.95. from Contact East offers many phone 038-251-136. These watches are available for new innovative items for jewelers, Aero both men (model 241824) and watchmakers, and hobbyists work­ women (model 341805) and fea­ ing with detailed jewelry and ture a genuine diamond with electronic parts. Contact East is accent setting on black enamel known for distributing technical dial, mineral crystals, and a black electronic supplies, but they also lizard grain strap. They carry an meet the needs of the jewelry exclusive five-year warranty. industry with precision hand tools For more information con· (screwdrivers, pliers, tweezers), in­ tact Sharp International, 484 Sun­ spection equipment (magnifiers, rise Hwy., Rockville Centre, NV eye loupes, lamps), cleaning equip- 11750; (516) 536-1600.

46 Horological Times/April 1989 SEIKO'S NEW SUBDIAL The DISCAN unit comes "PEARY METEORITE" COLLECTION DESIGNS with the GIA GEM Instruments' FROM CORUM TO CLOCKS spectroscope base, featuring a This watch features a dial cut For the first time, Seiko has in­ flexible 21-inch gooseneck fiber from one of the world's best­ troduced its new subdial collec­ optic light pipe, condensing lens, known meteorites, the "Cape tion, complementing itself most and auxiliary 10x condensing/ York," discovered in Greenland for this executive styled, octag­ magnifying lens. An optional iso­ by U.S. explorer R.E. Peary, the onal-shaped case design. Its hand­ lation color filter wheel allows first to reach the North Pole. some gilt and black case re­ close examination of specific The meteorite fragment owned by veals an off-white dial with color area of the spectrum. Corum will yield only 900 dials Roman numerals. Other classic This unit is available for earmarked for as many wrist­ styling features include month, $1995, plus $14.85 per unit watches, each individually num­ day and date subdials and moon for shipping, handling, and in­ bered, each absolutely exclusive. Corum phase. surance via surface UPS (CA and A quartz or mechanical move­ The new Seiko subdial col­ NY residents add appropriate sales ment comes with date calendar lection is available through the tax). To order by phone, call and moon phase indicator. The company's nationwide sales force. GIA GEM Instruments toll-free geographical coordinates of the nationwide at (800) 421-8161. meteorite's point of impact are Outside the U.S., call (213) engraved on the back of the 829-5491. Or write to: GIA water-resistant case, available in GEM Instruments, 1630 Stewart yellow or white gold or in plat­ St., Santa Monica, CA 90404. inum. Contact Corum Watches, 650 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10019; (212) 397-7800. TECHNOS"CARLTON" WATCHES The new "Carlton" models just introduced by Technos display "HORIZON" WATCH FROM JEAN D'EVE Seiko integrated styling of two-tone bracelet-and-case unit (the latter This watch from Jean D'Eve is water-resistant down to 30 m), in called "Horizon" because of its stainless steel and goldplate, fea­ sleek silhouette. It is available DIGITAL SCANNING in steel, two-tone finish, or gold­ SPECTROSCOPE FROM turing a white dial with Roman numerals, or a gold-toned one plate. Contact Jean D'Eve, Trump GIA GEM INSTRUMENTS Tower, 725 Fifth Ave., New The GIA GEM Instruments Corp. with chapters. A jet-black dial can Jean D'Eve also be fitted (quartz movement). York, NY 10022; (212) 759- has just introduced its base­ 3340. mounted, state-of-the-art diffrac­ For more information con­ tion-grating spectroscope unit at tact the Technos Watch Co., the Tucson and JA New York Gunzinger Bros Ltd., 51 rue des CASIO'S NEW PERSONAL shows in February. The most Moulins, 2000 Neuchatel 4, Swit­ CASH REGISTER noticeable feature of the new zerland. Model PCR-210 is one of several DISCAN (digital scanning) Spec­ new personal cash registers avail­ troscope is its LCD digital read­ able from Casio, Inc. The PCR-210 out window, which provides in­ has ten departments, two clerks, stant measurement in nanometers and single line validation. The of absorption or emission lines register has a high-speed printer. and bands. It can be used for receipts or "Many gemologists are leer­ journal and uses single or two­ y of spectroscopes," said GIA ply paper. GEM's Richard Agnew. "They're Other features include: up Casio key instruments for gem iden­ to two tax tables and a handy tification, but they've always tax status shift key, post-finaliza­ hensive management report capa­ been among the most difficult tion receipt, 18 transaction totals bility are other features of the to master. The DISCAN Spec­ and 17 counters, two periodic unit. The PCR-210 has a sug­ troscope solves many of the totals with three counters, two gested retail price of $449.00. problems. It's amazingly easy to refund operation types, refund For more information con­ use and it makes spectroscopic mode, and refund key. Time and tact Casio, Inc., 570 Mt. Pleasant examination of loose or mounted auto date advance, pop-up rotary Ave., P.O. Box 7000, Dover, NJ stones simple." Tech nos customer display, and compre- 07801; (201) 361-5400.

April 1989/Horological Times 47 News in the Trade

CARTIER OPENS NEW NATIONAL SERVICE Foreign Trade Zone in 1986. CENTER IN DALLAS Strategically located at the Cartier, luxury watchmaker and Dallas/Fort Worth Airport with ac­ jeweler, has opened its national cessibility to international flights, Dallas-based service center facility the new 4,000-square-foot facility for the servicing of watches, ac­ will perform repairs for authorized cessories, and leather goods. The Cartier dealers in the U.S. as well announcement was made by Ken­ as Cartier's 20 U.S. boutiques. neth Watson, president of Cartier, They are also positioned to han­ Inc. dle repairs for Central and South Commenting on Cartier's America customers, and the Carib­ new state-of-the-art facility, Mr. bean. Watson said, "We are very proud Cartier International de­ of this new Cartier center which is signs, manufactures, and distri­ equipped with the latest tech­ butes the Cartier brand, repre­ nology for product testing and senting a diverse range of prod­ believe that this new operation ucts throughout 124 countries. will have the capacity to sub­ Founded in 1847, The House of Cartier has opened its national Dallas-based service center facility for the stantially reduce the time needed Cartier has been named crown servicing of watches, accessories, and leather goods. From left to right are: to service our products." Cartier jeweler to 19 royal thrones and Joyce Brown, Cartier's Vice President of Operations; Cartier's President Kenneth W. Watson; Lewis Bond, Vice Chairman of DFW Airport Board of opened its national distribution long been identified with quality, Directors; and Willem S. Van Kempen, Cartier's Director of After Sales center in the Dallas/Fort Worth prestige, and history. Service.

JEWELRY EXHIBITION: permanent Architecture & Design In 1988, the territory became TORUN BULOW-HUBE Collection at the Museum of the world's number one exporter Billie Holiday, Brigitte Bardot, Modern Art. Designed in 1969, in quantity terms and the third Ingrid Bergman, and Mrs. Pablo this distinctive piece was the first biggest in terms of value. The Picasso ... all have owned dis­ bracelet watch in the world to be same year, Hong Kong exported tinctive jewelry designed by Torun crafted in stainless steel-and it is 49.4 million watches worldwide Vivianna Bulow-Hube, award-win­ as popular today as it was 20 amounting to $278 million. Ten ning designer, artist, and silver­ years ago. years later, in 1987, this quantity smith. soared 7.7 times reaching 380 Jewelry creations by Torun million with a value of $1.25 Bulow-Hube were showcased in a billion, enabling Hong Kong to retrospective exhibition hosted by take second place as a global Royal Copenhagen and Georg watch exporter in terms of Jensen. A tribute to the artist's value. 20-year association with Georg This upward trend contin­ Jensen, the exhibition also includ­ ued during the first three quarters ed an introduction of her new of 1988 as exports of watches works. This exclusive display of and clocks recorded a 24% in­ Torun's past and current designs Left: Stainless steel bracelet watch crease over the same period in was open to the public at Royal by Torun Vivianna Bulow-Hube 1987 reaching a value of $1.5 Copenhagen's Madison Avenue (above) . billion. This follows a smaller store in mid-February. year-on-year rise of 18% to $1.7 Torun's creative efforts have WATCH & CLOCI< billion in 1987 over the 1986. spanned four decades, and she has FAIR SET FOR HONG KONG plications to countries worldwide, Today, there are 1,250 been designing for Georg Jensen SEPTEMBER 10-14, 1989 manufacturers, distributors and establishments in Hong Kong in­ since 1969. Noted for their ele­ Hong Kong is gearing up to host publishers of the trade from the volved in the production of watch­ gant simplicity, Torun's jewelry the largest watch and clock fair US, Switzerland, France, West es, clocks, watch cases, dials, designs reflect an organic and sen­ ever held in the territory at the Germany, Japan, Mainland China, watch bands, and watch move­ sual approach to form. new Convention and Exhibition and Taiwan have indicated an in­ ments. Together they employ a Ironically, Georg Jensen Centre. The fair scheduled for terest in taking part in this event. total of almost 26,500 workers. was reluctant to produce one of September 10-14 is expected to Hong Kong's watch and For more information con­ Torun's first prototypes-an open attract 600 exhibitors from around clock industry rose to interna­ tact Hong Kong Trade Develop­ bracelet watch that has since the world marking the first time tional prominence in the 1970s ment Council, 673 Fifth Ave., been hailed as "the first modern it has accepted international par­ when digital electronic timepieces New York, NY 10022; (212) jewelry watch" and is part of the ticipants. Since the opening of ap- became popular in world markets. 838-8688.

48 Horological Times/April 1989 Classified Ads

REGULATIONS AND RATES

Ads are payable in advance $.50 per word, $.60 per word in bold type. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance. (e.g. August issue closed for copy on July 1st.)

HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 (513) 661-3838

CLOCKS: gearcutting, retoothing, repivoting, PRECISION TIME-TECH Tradesman rebushing, jeweling. REPAIRING: timers, air­ SL·rvin aml reslorntio11 of Role\, Piaget. P:Hck Philippe. craft clocks, antique clocks, pocket watches. Vad1L•ron-Co11st<111ti11 . Antique pockel \\

U.S.A. CORP. Watch wheel cutting, repivoting and staffing 504 Cherry Lane WE CAN MAKE ANY PART Floral Park, N.V. 11001 ~ CLOCK WHEEL AND WE CAN RESTORE ANY WATCH (516) 437-8700 PINION CUTTING Free estimates. references on request. SeMng the ;ndushy w

------71. e/lle--~~-- Tradesman For Sale 1to1erl 11Jatcle 'mt111e111e.11U. 2 Florida Way Lonaconing, MD 21539 Mr. Watchmaker - If you have a prob­ lem finding parts for older watches, SUPERIOR BUFFER, double spindle, filter, badly rusted or damaged beyond repair, ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT SERVICE and exhaust fan, $200.00. Ned R. Stewart, WE ARE FACTORY AUTHORIZED SERVICE FOR: we may be able to help you. We have • VIBROGRAF/PORTESCAP (817) 694-5915 . lots of movements for parts at reason­ • TICK-0-PRINT/L&R able prices. Some suitable for replace­ WE SERVICE ALL MAKES OF ULTRASONICS AND OTHER ment. If not satisfactory you may re­ WATCH-RATE RECORDERS AND EQUIPMENT turn. JACK PHILLIPS e ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE LEATHER STRAPS - $1.00 each, 3 styles. 24 LA GOMA AVENUE MILL VALLEY, CA 94941 Send $3.75 for samples or write for order Phone (301 I 463-6595 FOR INFORMATION CALL: (415) 381-1338 blank to FLORO DISTRIBUTOR, 12-08 151 PL , Whitestone, NY 11357.

MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed HIGH DOMED CRYSTALS. Need watch or L&R Tempo 400, R&D Staking Set, Small lowest prices-as low as $2 .30. 2-yr. guarantee. bezel. $27 PP, $31 Bull's-eye. PREFERABLE Ss Cabinet, Materials, Bench, and Movements. Large selection of hands and numerals. Free WATCHES, Box 6105, Phoenix, AZ 85005. $2000.00 for all. Call {804) 482-7103. delivery. SASE or call (7 04) 3 33-0221. Hall Clock Shop, 1512 Central Ave. , Charlotte. NC 28205. TRADE WATCHMAKERS: Full service on COMPLETE CLOCK AND JEWELRY REPAIR Quartz, Automatic, Rolex, Pocket Watches, SETUP. EVERYTHING $1250.00. PHONE Retrofitting & etc. 7 to 10 day service, work (318) 368-341 L BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! guaranteed, 40 years experience. K & L Service, Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC­ 413 Commercial St., Emporia, KS 66801; H.C. 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301. (316) 342-8479. DAYTONA BEACH, FLORIDA AREA STORE. Leading Clock & Watch Shop, Sales & Service. Good lease, fully equipped with excellent If you service or sell grandfather clocks you CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, gross profit and volume. High reputation-will need a WeightLifter clock weight carrier. For material and tools. Custom made to order or train for easy transition. Service knowledge the price of only one service call, eliminate repair of gears, pinions and parts. Catalog not essential. $60,000 plus inventory. Willing the awkwardness of handling those heavy $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, to negotiate terms. Principals only. H. BARTH; clock weights. The WeightLifter is a tough, Atwater, OH 44201; (216) 947-2268. (904) 761-0077. 3-pocketed pouch, specially designed to carry and protect clock weights. I developed it for use in my own repair business. It has an ex­ REPAIR AND RESTORE New York self­ clusive 2-way carry strap and much more. winding clocks, battery operated. Wagner CLOCK TIMER. Regulate your clocks elec­ Send SASE for free flyer or $40.00 plus $2.50 Clock Repair, 1900 Lake, Suite 5, Dyer, IN tronically with the new CTI Clock Timer. S&H for the real thing. Dean H. Bull, 301 7 46311; (219) 865-3160. Can be used on almost any clock with mechani· Marmac, Traverse City, MI 49684; (616) cal escapement. Pendulum clocks large and 946-9500. small, lever or cylinder escapements, anniver­ DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, sary clocks, etc. For information write: Can FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Tho Instruments, P.O. Box 80113, San Diego, GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE Specialize on changing dial feet positions to CA 92138. 941-D Broadway, El Cajon, CA 92021 fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: PARTS AND SERVICE HEADQUARTERS KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., FOR SCHATZ, KUNDO, KOMA, KERN, HAL­ Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101 ; (206) 623-2452. JEWELRY STORE with upstairs apartment. LER, HERMLE, NISSHINDO. MECHANICAL­ Complete watch and jewelry repair. Estab­ QUARTZ-ELECTRONIC-ClRCUIT BOARDS­ lished over 80 years. Located in Michigan MAINSPRINGS-SUSPENSIONS SPRINGS and .------upper peninsula, on shores of Lake Superior. MOVEMENTS, ETC. ! DIAL Call 906-884-4689 or 884-4546 or write REFINISHING W.A. Kempen, Box 185, Ontonagon, MI 49953. CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD r2 ; WATCHMAKERS TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT. CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL 2 ' Some parts, cabinets, cleaning and timing machines, bench. Just about everything you Save time, money, and work re-covering • would need to start a repair shop. Write P.W.R., bellows. Easier than replacing. For infor­ ...... P.O. Box 5098, Grand Forks, ND 58201; phone mation, send business-size S.A.S.E. to: I 701-746-1053. JANDi GOGGIN Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 AFTER Suppliers for mechanical watch Quartz Conversions parts. Hard-to-get GLASS crystals Diamond Dial Conversions for hunting and open face pocket Emblem & Name Personalization watches. Same day service. BAND OYLER Make all your leather watch bands last longer! Nationwide Watts 1-800-777-8962 Increase your profits! Band Oyler is a pro­ Write for Brochures tectant for all leather bands. Excellent for THE BUTTNER COMPANY, INC. rejuvenating old stock. Call 719-596-8463, INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO. INC. Karl Buttner, CMW · P.O. Box 236 Tuesday-Saturday, 9:00-6:00. MST, or write 2512 San Mateo Place NE for more information: About Time Watch 1 Old Chelsea Station Albuquerque, NM 87110 Repair, 1211 N. Circle Drive, Colorado Springs, 1 New York, NY. 10011 "A watchmaker for th e watchmakers" co 80909. ~------~ 50 Horological Times/April 1989 Old wristwatches desperately needed. Illinois, Wanted To Buy sterling watches, unusual Hamiltons, digitals, Help Wanted Rolex, Patek, chronographs, hinged lug, and es­ pecially military. Parts, dials, movements also. Top prices paid. Also loans on watches. Call WATCHMAKER: Must be experienced in all Collector needs: Patek Philippe, Cartier, Rolex, for details. Jewelers' Row Money Loan, 111 types of watches including quartz. We offer Vacheron & Constantin, E. Howard, IUinois, Gubelin, S. 8th St., Phila., PA 19106; 1(800)LOANS-88. a competitive starting salary plus benefits. Audemars, Movado, Repeaters, Keywinds, Moon­ Call Mr. Baker at (502) 583-3676, or send phase, Calendars, Railroad, Militaiy, Hunter case., resume to: The Watch Shop, Inc., 640 South Multi-Colored Golds, and many more Wristwatches and Pocketwatches. Call TOLL FREE 1-800-235- WANTED: Power transformer for a Vibro­ 4th Ave., Louisville, KY 40202. 2866 or 913-383-2880 when you're ready to sell! MILES SANDLER, Maundy International, Box graf BlOO. Contact Joe Pluchino, 3102 Trade­ 13028H, Overland Park, Kansas 66212. winds Trail, Orlando, FL 32805. EXPERIENCED WATCHMAKER - Beautiful Central Coast California. Inquires to: Britton Jewelers, 862 Higuera Street, San Luis Obispo, We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill , CA 93401; (805) 543·5648. sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour Watch~ Wanted payment return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY , WANTED: Experienced watchmaker with min­ 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. imum 5 years experience. Willing to relocate Established 1960. Phone: (803) 722-2073. to beautiful lake-filled East Texas area. Ex­ cellent opportunity for qualified person. Salary, WANTED: Unusual American pocket watches/ commission, and benefits. Send resume to movements. I buy entire collections, estates, Cavanaugh's Jewelers, 110 South First Street, watchmakers' inventories. Over 25 years Lufkin, TX 75901. experience of honest and reliable confidential transactions. JON HANSON, Box 5499, Beverly We desperately need for our retail Hills, California 90210; (213) 826-7778. WATCHMAKER/JEWELER - Full or part customers fine watches by: time. Ideal for retired or semi-retired person. Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet, Wanted for a retail store in a Southwestern town. Great outdoor summer and winter. WANTED Vacheron & C.Onstantin, Movado, Gubelin, etc. Send resume to Horological Times, Box HW489, Casting Equipment/Watchmaker's Tools­ We are paying top prices for any high 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211. Equipment, material and crystal systems, benches, cabinets, old broken or un­ quality, unusual or complicated claimed wrist and pocketwatches; watch Wrist or Pocket Watches factory pictures, displays or signs. Need BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY - Thriving Watch G.F. 14K/18K Hamilton electric, Accu­ When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch and Clock Repair Shop in Portland, Maine tron, S.S. or Gold Moonphase Chrono­ seeks Clock Repair Tradesman to take over graph, LeCoultre Alarm/Futurematic, A. C.all us Toll Free 1-800-842-862 5 clock business, operate on our premises. Call Lange watches, IRV BARD. In Texas 1-214-902-0664 the Watch Shop at (207) 774-7652, ask for Dan. AVON METAL SERVICE, LTD. Always prompt immediate payment! P.O. Box 17484-(414) 351-0933 Wingate's Quality Watches Milwaukee, WI 53217 P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 WATCHMAKER needed for full time position. Quality worker only. Work under CMW boss. Resume to: McElhinney Watch & Clock, Inc., 5 West 16th St., New York, NY 10011; (212) 633-2155.

WATCHMAKER/CLOCKMAKER-Busy South Florida clock store. Send resume and address Why Not inquiries to: Carl Jackson, 1210 N.E. 163rd St., N. Miami Beach, FL 33162. Drop Us

WATCH REPAIR PERSON NEEDED. EX­ PERIENCED. DETROIT/SOUTHFIELD AREA. A Note1 (313) 559-5329.

EXPRESS YOURSELF! WATCHMAKER - Opportunity for a watch­ maker experienced in mechanical movements to join a high quality firm servicing expensive What you do like ... what you watches. For more information please contact don't like about the Gerry Bohmann, Time Delay Corporation, Horological Times. 10440 N. Central, #210, LB #206, Dallas, TX 75231. Phone (800) 622-5203.

April 1989/Horological Times 51 Dates to Remember Ad Index

APRIL 1989 JULY1989 American Perfit ...... • ...... • . 6

9-Horological Association of Indiana 1989 15-16-8th Annual Indiana Jewelry and Watch Spring Workshop; Howard Johnson Trade Show; 500 Ballroom of the Down­ Plaza Motel; Lafayette, IN. town Indianapolis Convention Center & Borel ...... • .. 9 Hoosier Dome and New Westin Hotel. 12-19-17th European Watch, Clock and Jew­ Information: Normagene Murray, (317) Bergeon & Cie. . - . 31 ellery Fair (Basel '89); Basel, Switzer­ 631-8124; 251 N. Capitol, Ste. 1792, land. P.O. Box 2104, Indianapolis, IN 46204

28-30-Wisconsin Horological Society Annual 15-17-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course Cas·Ker .... • . • ... .inside back cover Convention; Midway Motor Lodge; La (AWi ); Hartford, CT.* Crosse, WI. Charles Cleves ...... 21 16-- Retrofitting & Casing Bench Course (AWi); Rapid City, SD.*

MAY 1989 17-21-lntroduction to Clock Repair Bench Davis Jewelers Supply Co .. • . • . ••. • . 27 Course (AWi); Utica, NY.* 5-7-Watchmakers Association of Pennsylvania Annual Convention; Holiday Inn East; Lancaster, PA. 28-30-Watchmakers Associat ion of Ohio An· Esslinger . . . • . • ...... inside front cover nual Conve ntion; Parke University Hotel; Columbus, OH. 5-7- Texas Watchmakers Convention; Radisson Airport Hotel; San Antonio, TX. For more information contact Curtis Ander­ AUGUST 1989 Germanow·Simon . . •. ... 29 son, (512) 822-9200 or Dwight Tubb, (214) 784-9361. 13--Retrofitting & Casing Bench Course (AWi) ; Gem City College ...... 25 Quad Cities , IL-IA.*

5-7-Horological Association of Virginia Annual 19-20-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench Convention; Hilton Hotel; Lynchburg, Course (AWi); Warren, OH.* Hobby Products Co .•.. • •...... •• 10 VA. For information: (804) 376-3510.

7- Horological Association of Indiana 1989 SEPTEMBER 1989 Spring Workshop; Jasper Holiday Inn; Innovative Electronics . • •...... •••. 27 Jasper, IN. 9-10-lowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Asso­ ciation Convention and Trade Show; Airport Hilton Inn; Des Moines, IA. 13-June 3-AWI Tour to Russia; Henry B. Jewelmont Corp ... •.. .. •• ...... 29 Fried, tour guide. See page 21 of this 9 -11-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course issue for more information. (AWi); Salt Lake City, UT.*

20-21-Arizona Horological Association 11th 11-15-lntroduction to Clock Repair Bench S. La Rose, Inc .• . •.• • . . . . 25 Cours e (AWi); Winston Salem, NC.* Annual Convention; The Embassy Suites; 7051 South Tucson Blvd.; Tucson, AZ. Livesay's ....• . .. • ...... 23 17-Retrofitting & Casing Bench Course (AWi ); Niagara Falls, NY.* 20-22-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); Fort Wayne, IN.* 23-24-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench Ray Gaber .. . • .. •. • ...... •.. 13 Course (AWi ); Springfield, MO.* 22-25-lntroduction to Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); Columbia, MO.* 23-24-Horological Association of Indiana 1989 Fall Workshop and Annual Meeting; Swest .. .• • ...... 8 The Old Columbus Holiday Inn (junc­ JUNE 1989 tion of 1-65 and SR 46, exit 68); Colum­ Swigart .. .• . . ...• 19 bus, IN.

17-18-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench OCTOBER 1989 Toledo Jewelers. . . . . 15 Course (AWi); Lexington, KY.* 20-22-Florida State Watchmakers Association Tumi Watches .. • . . . 35 Annual Convention; Hilton Inn Gate­ 20-22-Research and Education Council Annual way; Kissimmee, FL. Twin City Supply . .• • . •.... •• ...• 17 Meeting; Radisson Inn, located at Greater Cincinnati Airport. Contact AWi for in­ 20-22-Annual Illinois Watchmakers Conven­ formation . tion; Ramada Inn; Effingham, IL (junc­ tion of interstates 57 & 70). Zantech ...•. • •..•..••.....• • . 3 23-AWI Annual Affiliate Chapter Meeting; Radisson Inn; Greater Cincinnati Air­ port. Contact AWi for information.

24-25-AWI Annual Board of Directors Meet­ *For more information on AWi Bench Courses ing; Radisson Inn; Greater Cincinnati contact AWi CENTRAL, 3700 Harrison Ave., Airport. Contact AWi for information. P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211.

52 Horological Times/April 1989 We Guarantee Fast Service & Competitive Prices • Same Day Service • Knowledgeable • Complete Crystal • Huge Inventory Personnel Fitting Service

This popular assortment has one each of the 60 most popular styles of waterproof crowns in both yellow and white, in CROWN assorted flat and domed styles. Comes in 60 bottle cabinet. ASSORTMENT Size ranges are as follows: Tube Opening: 2.0 and 2.5mm. #860 Diameter: 3.5 to 5.75mm. Post Length: Flush to l .50mm. Tap: 43 Tap 10, 3 Tap 9, 13 Tap 8, 1Tap6. $119.50 CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-543-0408 OHIO 1-800-582-8027. $15 MINIMUM WATS ORDER INFORMATION & INQUIRIES 513-241-7073 Cas·~&uCo. 2121 SPRING GROVE AVE. CINCINNATI, OH45214 •'•t CLEAN UP WITH THIS OFFER FROMM ELL.

When you buy one hundred Maxell button batteries, we'll give you this mini-vacuum cleaner. Absolutely free. The two-way vacuum cleaner cleans up dust from your delicate merchandise. While Maxell batteries clean up at your cash register. See your AA batteries for vacuum participating Maxell battery distributor for details. operation not included. Offer expires April 30, 1989. Maxell Corporation of America, 22-08 Route 208, Fair Lawn, NJ 07410. Call 800-533-2836 (in NJ: 201-794-5930).