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National Wats: 800-328-0205 Minnesota Wats: 800-392-0334 FAX: 612-452-4298 Serving the Trade Since 1923 Inquiries- Info: 612-452-7180 VOLUME 15, NUMBER 8 AUGUST 1991 AWIAnnual Meeting Highlights HOROLOGICAL

Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute

Alice B. Carpenter 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE Joe Crooks 4 BENCH TIPS Try a Little Voodoo! 50-52 Henry B. Fried 6 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS Ansonia Grandfather Clock

Robert D. Porter 14 WATCHES INSIDE & OUT Retrofitting a Shipping Stem

James Adams 16 NOVICE WATCHMAKER The Lever Escapement, Part 1 1991 AWI Tour

John A. Nagle 20 HODGE PODGE LODGE Repair Tips

Wes Door 22 SHOPTALK Watch Crystal Management, Part 5

Archie B. Perkins 26 TECHNICALLY WATCHES Antique Watch Restoration, Part L.XVfff

Henry 8. Fried 32 PENDULUMS Adapting the Formula, Part 2

Charles Cleves 38 OLD WATCHES American Railroad Watches 56-58 Fred S. Burckhardt 41 ROCK QUARRY A Game Just For Watchmakers

Marshaff F. Richmond 43 PICKLE BARREL Making and Installing Boxes and Bezels DEPARTMENTS David A. Christianson 46 TIMELOCKS Timelock Movement Servicing New Members/10 Up Front/12 Arnold Van Tiem 53 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING AWi Project Extend/31 1991 REC Annual Meeting Material Search Network/35 Bulletin Board/36 Ask Huck/40 HORO LOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145·9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Association News/42 Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison A..:enue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 , for $40.00 per year ($4.50 New Products/News In the Trade/59 per copy in the United Sta1es. and $50.00 per yea r; $5.5'0 per copy outside the U.S.). Second class postage paid at Cincinnat:i, Ohio. POSTMASTER: S!!nd address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, Classified Ads/60 P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/64 Advertisers' lndex/64 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording). FAX: (513) 661-3131. FELLOWS OHOROLOGICAL("';JTM * * OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE

George Danlels Gerald G. Jaeger u DCJ!Ja9 Henry B. Fried Robert A. Nelson EXECUTIVE AND EDrrORIAL OFFICES Josephine F. Hagans • Hamltton E. Pease • Orvllle R. Hagans Miiton C. Stevens AWi Central Ewell D. Hanman Marvin E. Whitney P.O. Box 11011 Harold J. Herman •o---i 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, OH 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 Fax: (513) 661-3131

Milton C. Stevens: Co-Editor Michael P. Danner: Co-Editor Regina Stenger: Associate Editor Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor WHAT IS AN AWI DELEGATE? Donna Baas: Production Director Glad you asked! ·someone asked me this and I am going to try to answer him. James Lubic: Technical & Educational An AWI delegate is possibly the most Services Manager important man (or lady) in your state organi­ Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager zation, except maybe your president or secre­ Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager tary. (Texas had a lady delegate this year. Sue Mary Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator Wysong did a great job.) AWI delegates are appointro, electro, TECHNICAL EDITORS: or chosen by their association. Their job is to attend the annual AWI meetingin June and to James Adams Wes Door represent their state in the affiliate chapter Robert F. Bishop Henry B. Fried meeting. James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman When tbe delegate goes to the affiliate chapter meeting, he takes Fred S. Burckhardt Robert A. Nelson with him the report of his association's activities for the past year. When he Charles Cleves Archie B. Perkins stands to give his report, he finishes up with any recommendations his Steven G. Conover Marshall F. Richmond association wants AWI to consider. Joe Crooks Marvin E. Whitney For those ofyou who have not attended an affiliate chapter meeting, it is interesting and exciting. You meet the delegates from the other AW/ OFFICERS: associations and you hear what they have done and are doing and hear their recommendations. Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW: President Once the reports have been heard and the recommendations made, Wes Door, CMW: First Vice President the affiliate chapter chairman appoints a committee to go over the recom­ James Adams, CMW: Second Vice President mendations and see that-they are worded in such a way that they will be Fred S. Burckhardt: Secretary acceptable to be presented to the Board of Directors the next day. Marvin E. Whitney. CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer The awards banquet is held and the AWI delegate has the option to attend, and I would certainly hope he would. At the banquet, awards are AW/ DIRECTORS: given and certain associations are recognized for various things. The next day the board meeting commences. The AWI delegate is William Biederman, CMW e:i..-pected to attend. He will hear the general business--treasurer's report, James H. Broughton, CMEW each committee's report, etc. The affiliate chapter chairman will make his Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW report, ending with the recommendations to the board. The board will Henry Frystak, CMW consider each recommendation and take appropriate action on each one. Ewell D. Hartman, CMW, FAWI Look at the wealth of information the delegate has access to. Look Gerhard Hutter, CMW at the many bits of information the delegate has to take back to his Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI association, for that is the other half of his job . . . to take back to the Robert L. Macomber, CMC association that pays his way, the information he has gleaned while attend­ Benjamin Matz, CMW ing the annual meeting. Perhaps this is even more important than just Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CMEW coming to the meeting as a delegate, for this delegate is the liaison between A WI and the state organization. Ifthe state organization has a problem, the Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: Affiliate Chapter Director delegate is in the best position to inform the state organization of the correct Wit Jarochowski: Research & Education Council Director rou.te to take to solve that problem. Robert F. Bishop, CMEW: Immediate Past President So, Mr. or Ms. Delegate, wear your title proudly. You are the consti­ tutional route for your association to be heard and the conduit for informa­ Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary I tion back to your association. Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Technical Director

Reprinting and reproduction la prohibited without per­ mission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copyright ©1991 by the American Watchmakers Institute. ON THE FRONT: Sunset on Sanibel Island, Florida. By Mark A. Krueger of Hamburg, NY. 2 Horological Times/August 1991 DAN SCHEIMAN Laboratory Technician If Dan Scheiman is a and the highly skilled lion spectrophotometer used Eveready" Watch Battery musician (piano and operator of a machine to test raw materials used in Quality and Specifications Cleveland, Ohio guitar) , a backpacker called the atomic absorp- Eveready®watch batteries.

The raw materials that go into spectrophotometer and other Eveready®watch batteries are sophisticated testing equip­ tested even before they are ment to help detect and iden­ purchased. Dan Scheiman tify the slightest impurities uses the atomic absorption that might adversely affect

EVEREADY® WATCH BATTERIES Exceptional quality and dependability, . EVEREADf the result of a sophisticated manufacturing process, a high degree ottechnical expertise and people dedicated Lo making the finest

© 1989 Eveready Battery Company, Inc. r>enc.h Tips

Joe Crooks

SEND YOUR TIPS TO: Joe Crooks I c/o Horological Times 3700 Harrison A venue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211

Try a Little Voodoo!

This month's tip was in a newletter ofthe Watchmakers called Miracle Rustproof Oil. You can order it from your Guild of Greater Miami, sent to them by AE. Taylor of material house under the Vigor I Bestfit #Olr347. Lexington, KY. I've been using this stuff for the past 20 or more years and it hasn't let me down yet. ~ ere is something watchmakers might use for Wet down the rusty parts with Miracle Rustproof I I I rusted screws. It's silly, but it works. Use Sloan's Oil, let it soak till the next day or longer, and the screws liniment to loosen screws that are rusty. Put the lini­ will usually loosen without trouble. If not, put on more ment on the rusty screw; let it soak. Add more when the Rustproof Oil and wait another day. This Rustproof Oil rust looks a little dry. Keep adding and let it soak. will not harm the watch, but keep it offthe face ofthe dial. Gently try to turn the screw, and if it won't move, don't Nothing does that lacquer finish any good. force it but add more liniment. It doesn't matter to the I dip Rustproof Oil on rusty parts of a watch movement how wet you get it. Then just clean in the when I give an estimate to repair. Then a week later usual way. when the watch comes up in line to repair, the rusty screws usually give no problem unscrewing, the rust Sounds like voodoo to me. Sloan's liniment may loosen will come off the plates with a stiff brush dipped in rusty screws, but I never did like the smell of that stuff. cleaning solution. N aturally,you must replace the rusty I'll bet you that the alcohol in the liniment would pene­ parts. This should be in your estimate to repair the trate the rust just as well without the rest ofthe liniment watch. in it, and without the smell! If you like a good carbon steel knife like I do, a The best "rust-loosener-upper" I know of is sold bottle ofMiracle Rustproof Oil is worth its price just to by a firm in Florida. You watchmakers in the Greater keep your knife's hinges from rusting in the summer. Miami Guild should know where it is: The Swiss Ameri­ And remember, there is no smell in this Rustproof Oil. can Lab, 1905 Broadway, Riviera Beach, FL 33404. It's 0

ROUND TEMPERED MINERAL WATCH CRYSTALS NOW AVAILABLE: FINISHED - READY TO USE TB CRYSTALS UNFINISHED - BLANKS FOR USE WITH THE Now available in these thicknesses: KRONOGLASS 40mm in .07mm - .OBmm - .09mm - 1.1 Omm Sizes 15.0mm - 17.9mm in .08mm thickness 1.2mm - 1.3mm - 1.5mm - 1.8mm Sizes 18.0mm - 26.9mm in .09mm thickness Sizes 27.0mm - 36.0mm in 1.00mm thickness 25mm in .07mm - .09mm thicknesses.

ORDER THESE CRYSTALS FROM YOUR WATCH MATERIAL WHOLESALER.

AMERICAN PER FIT CRYSTAL CORP. 653 Eleventh Ave. New York, NY 10036

4 Horological Times/August 1991 Order Line 800-223-8960 NY Metro 212-819-0470 Watch Material FAX 800-526-8682 NY Metro FAX 212-354-2270 & Tool Catalog Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC

Ansonia Grandfather Clock

it"\ I am interested in getting and silver dial 12 inches, height 104 '-X any historical information on inches. Each was listed at $285. the grandfather clock shown in this While this is stated to be an photo. The maker was thought to Ansonia, it is quite possible that it have been Black Forest Company, might have been imported by them but there are no markings on the from Emilian Wehrle Furtwangen­ case or the movement. Schonenbach in the late 19th cen­ Samuel L. Tipton tury, or one of the factories such as Maryville, TN those in Lenzkirch.

A\. I found an illustrati.on ofyour A' clock in the 1906 Ansonia catalog. It is an Antique Standing No. 1, eight-day, half-hour gong strike, oak, antique brass trimmings, gilt

1t\ Could you please give me in­ '-X formation on the watch that I am submitting photos for? Engraved around the inside bezel (after bezel with crystal is lifted) is: J.W. Ladds Pat. June 11 @ . Engraved on the ANTIQUE STANDING, No. I inside back cover is: 100154, and E;ght.Day, Hall-Hour Geng Strik<. Oak. there is some kind of silhouette. On Antique Brass Trimmings. the movement is engraved the fol­ Gilt and Silver Dial, J '.! inche! Hti2'ht, 104 :inches (Please turn to next page)

6 Horological Times/August 1991 Borel Quartz Crown Assortmen Borel has assembled the 45 most common dustproof and waterproof types used on today's quartz watches, which SWISS require smaller sizes and taps. Includes diameters: 2.50, 2.75, 3.00, 3.25, 3.50, 3.75 and Taps 1O, 11, 12 & 13 MADE This new updated assortment includes tap 13 sizes, more WP sizes and more tap 12 crowns than previous assort­ ment. 1 each yellow and white of 40 numbers, 60 bottle .Httrcl plus 5 Blue Stone Crowns, yellow only. cabinet. Total of 85 Crowns, in 60 bottle cabinet. No other replacement crown approaches Borel Crown in quality, looks or effectiveness. Borel Crowns are mad• by the top Swiss producer of crowns for new-watch production. Borel stocks the complete range Newly updated of sizes, Styles, types, tap sizes, post lengths, and tube openings. You'll find exactly the crown you need. 751/2 Asst. sgo Design Tap 10 Tap 11 Tap 12 Tap 13 Dustproof Type 2.75mm • 652/10 652/11 652/12 3.00mm • 656/10 656/11 656/12 3.25mm • 660/1 0 660/11 660/12 660/13 3.50mm • 664/10 664/11 664/12 3.50mm • 666/1 0 666/11 Diameter Tube Post Design Tap10 Tap11 Tap12 Tap13 Waterproof Type 2.50mm 1.50mm Flush • • 752/10 752/11 752/12 752/13 2.75mm 1.60mm Flush • • 754/10 754/12 3.00mm 1.60mm Flush ~ e 756/10 756/11 756/12

3.00mm 1.80mm Flush 01 • 758/10

3.25mm 1.80mm Flush lllTill e 760/10 760/11

3.25mm 1.60mm Flush lliiiiiiii e 762/10 762/11

3.50mm 1.80mm Flush illlliD e 764/10 764/11

3.50mm 1.60mm Flush liiiiilJI • 766/11 766/11 766/12 766/13 Assortment, now, includes 5 Blue Stone Crowns DP 3.00, 3.50mm 2.00mm Flush mIID • 768/10 768/11 768/12 3.50, 4.00 and WP 3.00, 3.50. 3.75mm 1.60mm Flush liiiiiia • 770/10 770/11

Borel has put together this uni que assortment of crowns styled as those used on the popular Japanese brand watches: Seiko, Japanese Pulsar, Lorus and Citi zen. Includes 48 numbers, most of which are the waterproof type wi th gasket, diameters from 2.5mm to 5.5mm. Total 96 crowns, 1 each of yellow and white of 48 Style Crown numbers. Refills available. 60 bottle cabinets. Asst. Some of the numbers in the assortment are: J-32M29 J-506-2254 J-25N02 J-35E09 J-30E02 J-35M10 J-40M 17 J-506-2614 J-40M32 J-45M30 J-50005 J-35003 J-35N57 951/2 Asst. sgg J-506-2847 J-40M24 J-45001 J-45W29 J-35M82 J-35M68 Jules Borel & Company, 1110 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64106 National Order Desk -1·800·333·4646; FAX Order 1·800·333·4083 Borel & Frei, 712 South Olive, Los Angeles, CA 90014 .llttrel National Order Desk - 1 ·800·654·9591 .llttrel Otto Frei - Jules Borel, P.O. Box 796, Oakland, CA 94604 National Order Desk - 1·800·772-3456 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS (Continued from previous page) lowing: P .S. Bartlett 710382 Waltham, Mass. Foggs Patent Feb. 14, 1865

Scott Aalund Kingwood, TX

At, Your photos reveal a watch A' of rather modest quality with a very misleading engraving as housing a "chronometer" within its case. It is no more a chronometer than the cheapest Mickey Mouse watch, and any effort to navigate in watches in that Foggs Patent of Feb. any waters larger than a bathtub 14, 1865 was for the safety center may result in disaster. pinion which unscrewed itself from These were made in various the threaded center arbor when the designs provided to the women fret­ backward thrust of the breaking saw workers who produced these mainspring forced the train in the whimsical and attractice bridge plates opposite direction. This prevented in the 1850 period in Switzerland. shearing ofthe wheel orpinion teeth. The cylinder escapement provides This patent was disputed, though, some fair semblance of timekeeping by Elgin, which ended in some mu­ and the compass gave the general di­ tual agreement and usage. rection of North, infiuenced slightly or somewhat by the resident magnet­ ism in the movement's steel parts. if"\ Could you tell me any infor­ While these sold for little ~ mation about the watch in money in their time, today these these photos? novelties do somewhat better; there Lloyd Larish are some collectors who'd like them. Faribault, MN Henry B. Fried At, I have examined the photos A' ofyour watch as well as not­ ing your description. According to SEND $1.00 FOR my records, watch #710382 is listed A COMPLETE CATALOG as being 18s, 12jewels, steel expan­ CONTAINING sion balance made in the Fall of MACHINERY, (304) 562-3538 ~~~~iES, AND 1873. CATALOG $1.00 BOOKS. This was one of3000 similar P.O. Box 536-HT • Hurricane WV • 25526

8 Horological Times/August 1991 THE UNBELIEVABLE WATCH MOVEMENT SALE MORETHANSOODIFFERENTMOVEMENT NOW FOR A LIMITED TIME ONLY EDON'TDABBLE-WEDEALIN MODELS IN STOCK. LARGEST INVENTORY WATCH MOVEMENTS. CALL FOR & STOCK AVAILABILITY VOLUME PURCHASES. rh~------~ r/J ______\ ~~~ .~ lEr~:tl I WATCH°'r:Jv':~NTGUIDE j/~. y 482 I xa NEWLY UPDATED JUNE, 1991 . xa I 6 314 I I . 6 314 I ·' 3 HANDS OVER 85 PAGES LISTING 3,000 2 . - I MOVEMENTS ALONG WITH f ·HANDS I $5 95 I CROSS REFERENCES, FREE I $6 75 I I only • ea LIGNE SIZE GUIDE INCLUDED. only • ea I SAVE I ISALE$10.95l(REG$19.95) I SAVE _9~ .9~ I \MoREJ_ 6?t7s_\~50 ~2U ~OR~ '?tso_\r6.25~~oY

.w · -- EsA \ •A 1 AricHF.a~~nrAEsRrivicPRLo,cwEs, Too.1 (~7:~ •. . J~ - Mtvor.A\ IM~~ ;··· 561.001 I n'f1 f1 ,, 1/-P/ ,,. .,~ 2020 I I ... 63/4xa I~/ ------'"""' I . 63/4Xa I I • .. 2-HANDS I ( / • ' I ·' 2-HANDS I 0 ~ I ~ ~· . d1 Y48 1 I I I I only $6.85 ea I • 63/4xa only $7.50 ea 1 1 I SAVE ~ I I f 3-HANDS I I SAVE I ~OREJ_{,pt75 ~~.so ~YG.2~ I only $6.75 ea I \.]0R~"?t2s fiig_ ~9J 0 #------~ I I (/j ______\ ~~ VXlQ I \]a~~·rt.so_~.2s~o/ ~c.f A 57~~~04 I v. ~/2Y.~.37 I r::#--.:---MIYOTA\ I • 'l~~&· I I onlylJ.;sHA: I :~/.A ~P,,3,.0 I I only$8.95ea I I SAVE . 9i> I 1/ _, 3-HANDS I I SAVE . 9~ . 9tJ:. I fiso vl1.2sJ I only $ _ ea ~om~!_{,?t1s 7 50 1 ~OR~{,?t.1s ~Ya.so ~r.Ta . 2?.} r:------\ I SAVE 9tJ- I !:~~'<,~-~-MIYOTA\ 1M~~Q~~-- VXl 1 I \_fiORE_!_~~25_\y{10 ..y~gu I~~/ e·;h 5Y20 I I~ V238 I ~~------\ I ' replaces322Q I replaces ~ • ESA I 51/2x63/4 I I •' 5 ~~~~i£4 I I qOqVJ..:r . ~1~ 56 1. 10 1 I 2-HANDS I only $7 95 I I ,_.. 6 3/4xa I I only $9.85 ea I I ·ea I I ,· 3-HANDS I ISAVE I ~ivR~ {,Pt."1s ~~so ~~2?.} I only $7. 95 ea I \i!oR~ {,?tso _ \yt2s ..~1y (; ~--~-----~ I SAVE f>~ I rk_____ EBOSA\ 1~~- .,. ,.,w· Y1491 \J10R~~?tso~y{2s..f~orJ i4°/ · 701.1111 o · · 11112 ~------°"' I a3/4 1 I .... or(, 3-HANDS DATE II 3-HANDS DATE I I ry \ I only $J4.95 ea I I -I?" e 6&~0 I I only q 1.95 ea I I I II 51/2x63/4 II I SAVE fto I \ ~,AVE .. ~ -t~ - t~ • J 2-HANDS \ ~;,Q i~ ,.:1.~ ~·'- _ J ~ORE! r.~4.so _!'"'~.2s !'13.9Q.../ I $9 I ~ RE.!_r.~1.so_J.11.25~10.9y {;~-----MIYOTA\ I SAVE only .85 eat~ I ( ~rS' ~~ ---ESA\ 0 -~~~ _, .. 6M12 1 ~OR~r.pt75_i~so 'f9.2y 14"' ; tc···; 280.0011 I ~~ ~ I ix-'?' I 3 3/4 x 6 3/4 I repklce'i~Yf 1QI 61( OCEANSIDE~,/ 2-HANDS I ~ 3-HANDS DATE ~.,\ \..'_,. ttgF. ~./~ I $29 I I $1295 I l' Wmldwid.ImpartnsandDistributors only .95ea I only • ea I ' I I \ ?.AVE _,t3>-- ,_.t~ •.t~ .• 124 HOUR ORDER LINES:~ 800-292-5522 \ ~AVE j~ -.t» ,.,t~ • J ~OREJ:~2.75~2.50 !'t2.2y FAX (714) 279-5671 ~ORE! '~9.50_37~.oo !27.0.Q/ We Salute These New Members!

ALLEGRO, Joanne--Tucson, AZ GAUTHIER, Andrew--Worcester, MA KOLENSNIKOV, Peter--Chattanooga, Sponsor: Bill Walkling GIBBONS, Andrew--Boca Raton, FL" TN BELL, Mary Ellen--College Station, TX GOSS, Kenneth--Ft. Worth, TX Sponsor: Jerry Jenkins BENITEZ, Sergio H. K.--Anaheim, CA GRAHAM, Clair E.--Newark, OH KRAS, Casimir E.--Cicero, IL Sponsor: George Sallaberry HALIC, Peter--Escondido, CA Sponsor: Archie Perkins BIELKA, Robert Bruce--New York, NY HAWKINS, Howard R.--Johnsonville, KUNKEL, Henry--Sun City, CA BOICE, Richard--Bothell, WA SC LASTRES, Hugo E.--Glendale, CA BOYDSTON, Phillip--Youngstown, OH HORWITZ, Marvin--San Jose, CA Sponsor: Archie Perkins BROUILETTE, Juans D.--Quebec, Can. HOUCHIN, Karen A.--Richfield Springs, LE VAR, John E.--San Francisco, CA Sponsor: Andre Brouilettte NY LINCKE, Eric T., M.D.--Marquette, MI CASALINO, Joseph--New York, NY HUSH, Jim--Quincy, IL LINKENHOKER, Robert A.--Westmin- CA VIN, Ernie--Center Point, TX IRELAND, Tim--Dallas, TX ster, CA COLE, J. Michael--Lancaster, PA IRICK, Roy C.--Palos Verdes, CA LISH, John P.--Rochester, NY CONTI, Elizabeth A.--Paris, TX JACK, Robert--Reston, VA LOWER, Mark A.--Indianapolis, IN CONWAY, Dr. Jerry L.--Tuscaloosa, AL JACKSON, Craig--Chapel Hill, NC MC ALLISTER, Dennis--Clinton, IA DAL PEZZO, Roberto--Miami, FL JACKSON, Gordon L.--Strathclyde, MC CALLEY, William Casey--Aurora, DE OLIVEIRA, Jaime--Secaucus, NJ Scotland, U.K. co Sponsor: Henry Frystak Sponsor: Gordon W. Jackson MC DANNEL, Robert P.--DeLand, FL DIPPLE, Larry--Signal Hill, CA JONES, Stephanie Lynn--Victorville, CA MEDLOCK, Shirley--Sarasota, FL FAULKNER, Charles E.--Riverside, CA KATZ, Michael H.--Watertown, MA MURPHY, Edward M.--Springfield, PA Sponsor: Ivan W. Godwin Sponsor: James Broughton NEWMAN, John W.--Mobile, AL FEIGENBAUM, Gary--New Rochelle, KHOUBESSERIAN, A., M.D.--Belmont, NGU, Tuan--Kingston, PA NY MA OSBORN, Vernon--Orange, CA FOX, Fred W.H.--Dayton, OH OSNATO, Michael P.--Palisades Park, NJ Sponsor: Henry Frystak PECK, Charles R.--London, England PUIG, Richard--Jupiter, FL REA, Thomas--Hicksville, NY REECE, Homer H.--Brooks, KY CRYSTALScut RIBLETT, Wayne !.--Phoenix, AZ RIECHMAN, Joanne--McComb, OH RIDGEWAY, James D.--Huntingtown, PLASTIC FIT $3.00 MD PLASTIC CUT $5.00 RIOLO, Vincent A.--Jamestown, NY ROMANELLI, Louis--Wilkes-Barre, PA MINERAL CUT $6.00 SEDGWICK, Roger--Pryor, OK GLASS FIT $5.00 SINGH, Arjan--Bangser, Malaysia GLASS DOMED FIT $7.00 SMITH, Louis William--Dayton, TX SOBRITO, Robert--La Mesa, CA Using -- mineral blanks and fancy STEFANELLI, Joseph M.--Pittsburgh, PA only~ :i STILLEKE, Donald W.--Medford, OR plastic crystals, we can serve all of your crystal needs STRADER, Perry L.--Clarksburg, WV as well as WATCH material needs. Remember, we're STRICKLAND, Gregory--Port Orange, still the Gruen and Rolex headquarters. FL SULLIVAN, Tim--Bremen, IN THAI, Sung Jul--Douglasville, GA Sponsor: Richard Roy !:d7t:~.~~lte4-0B TOTTEN, Gordon Neil--Cortland, OH Los Angeles, CA 90014 WEINSTOCK, W ayne--Syosset, NY TEL: (213) 892-8033 WITHEROW, Dale--Clearfield, PA Gu ZINN, James R.--Paradise, CA ENTHER FAX: (213) 892-8035

800-462-1962 0

10 Horological Times/August 1991 J.M. HUCKABEE'S TAPE 21: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Making an American clock verge. Huckabee demonstrates how to select and work raw materials into a verge ''Random Clock Talks'' for an Ingraham miniature kitchen clock­ time only.

TAPE 22: Approximately 2 hours The series of 37 "Random Clock Talks" videotapes listed below are available for loan SUBJECT MATTER: Completion of making a verge for an Ingraham kitchen clai:k from to AWi members from the AWi Audio Visual Library. The tapes vary in viewing time Tape 21. Also random tips and cutting a from 1.25 to 2.00 hours and are available in the VHS format. A service charge of 32·tooth recoil escape wheel for an Ansonia $5.00 each is to accompany requests to borrow a tape; only one tape is loaned at a kitchen clock. time. The service charge covers AWi's production and shipping costs. Tapes should be TAPE 23: Approximately 2 hours returned to AWi within 7 days after receipt, insured for $30.00. Please order tape SUBJECT MATTER: Pivot and bushing by number along with your name, address, and $5.00 service charge. Send to: AWi problems and their repair. Audio Visual Library, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211. TAPE 24: Approximately 2 hours Not available at this time. TAPE 1: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 12: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: A brief view and SUBJECT MATTER: Using a custom-made discussion of a variety of clocks and tools attachment to make wheels and index plates used in the Huckabee shop. on the Unimat lathe. The custom-made TAPE 25: Approximately 2 hours attachments can be made from drawing SUBJECT MATTER: Clock mainspring TAPE 2: Approximately 2 hours available from AWi upon request (cost to and barrel work. SUBJECT MATTER: Demonstration and cover printing and postage is $2.00). discussion on using various tools and lathes TAPE 26: Approximately 2 hours to make and fit a clock bushing. SUBJECT MATTER: Clock mainspring ends TAPE 13: Approximately 2 hours and barrel teeth. Huckabee demonstrates SUBJECT MATTER: Cutting clock wheels­ TAPE 3: Approximately 2 hours how to replace teeth in the barrel of an a demonstration of cutting the wheels used SUBJECT MATTER: Discussion and dem­ Urgos 8-day modern clock. Huckabee in the AWi CMC examination. onstration on lathe operation using the also fashions a new hole end for the main­ Boley watchmakers lathe and the C&E spring. TAPE 14: Approximately 2 hours Marshall watchmakers lathe. SUBJECT MATTER: Using an inexpen­ TAPE 27: Approximately 2 hours sive quartz analog clock movement, Huck­ TAPE 4: Approximately 1.50 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Understanding the abee disassembles the movement and pro­ SUBJECT MATTER: An analysis and work antique American clock time train and vides an in-depth explanation of each with the Urgos 21 /42 8-day trapezoid repairs to it and using the Unimat lathe component and their function in the opera· time only clock. to polish pivots. tion of the timepiece. TAPE 5: Approximately 2 hours TAPES 28 & 29 TAPE 15: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: A demonstration and Not available at this time. SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee presents an discussion about drilling the arbor using in-depth discussion on the design of cutting Huck's "turning in a box" method and TAPES 30-34: Approximately 2 hours each tool bits, both hand-held and those held making a pivot. SUBJECT MATTER: A series of five tapes in the tool post rest. Also a discussion of designed as a teaching exercise which TAPE 6: Approximately 1.75 hours steel-its composition and characteristics. encompasses every facet of lathe work SUBJECT MATTER: A demonstration of encountered in the clock shop. Produced wheel cutting using clear plastic and a TAPE 16: Approximately 1.50 hours in conjunction with a series of drawings Mosley watchmakers lathe. Huckabee cuts SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee presents which are provided by AWi when you four gears such as those required in the AWi an in-depth discussion about hairsprings. borrow the first tape in the series. Upon certification examination. He also demonstrates how to vibrate a clock completion of the work you have a set of hairspring. excellent useable lathe accessories for use TAPE 7: Approximately 1.75 hours in your shop. SUBJECT MATTER: The Birge & Mallory TAPE 17: Approximately 1.75 hours Striker Clock-a· complete study and anal­ SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee goes through TAPES 35 & 36: Approximately 2 hours each ysis of the Birge & Mallory Striker and the the process of making a knurled nut, one SUBJECT MATTER: Two tapes which clock with its strap plates and roller pinions, like those used as hand nuts in Early Amer­ demonstrate the use of the lathe accessories circa 1841. ican kitchen clocks. He demonstrates a produced in the Series 30-34. This en· simple way to knurl the nut. compasses all facets of pivot work encoun­ TAPE 8: Approximately 2 hours tered in the clock shop. SUBJECT MATTER: Making a great wheel TAPE 18: Approximately 1.75 hours and mounting the great wheel on its arbor. SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee demon­ TAPE 37: Approximately 2 hours strates the process of inserting a tooth SUBJECT MATTER: A companion tape TAPE 9: Approximately 1.75 hours into a clock wheel to replace a broken or to the Huckabee book "How to Build a SUBJECT MATTER: Making and fitting a damaged tooth. Regulator Clock." All components and replacement pinion for a clock wheel. details for their construction are discussed in detail. It is recommended that the viewer· TAPE 19: Approximately 2 hours have the book at hand when viewing this TAPE 10: Approximately 1.50 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Pivot work in the tape. SUBJECT MATTER: Correcting problems American antique Sessions, count wheel, caused by an elongated pivot hole by bush­ and clock movement. ing with a solid bushing and the use of a "preacher" to relocate center distance. TAPE 20: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 11: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Continuation of work SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee discusses with the Sessions clock used in Tape 19. A DETAILED DESCRIPTION the IBM #37 Master Clock Movement and Complete restoration work on the move­ OF EACH TAPE IS AVAILABLE IBM 90 Series Clock Movement. ment and treating a worn great wheel. FROM AWi CENTRAL. Up Front

ANNUAL REPORT FOR FISCAL YEAR 1990-1991 JUNE 29, 1991 AWi BOARD OF DIRECTORS

Milton C. Stevens, Executive Secretary

IT HAS BEEN A VERY GOIOD YEAR!

HOROLOGICAL TIMES PUBLICITY & PUBLIC RELATIONS During the year the Horological Times has grown in "Is Anybody Out There Listening?" wrote AWI Presi­ size and expanded in coverage. We have continued to dent Alice Carpenter in the recent June issue of the receive interesting articles on a wide range of subjects Times. She referred to the Publicity/Public Relations from occasional contributors. The dedicated regular Program launched three years and $40,000 ago. Through feature writers continue to provide interesting material public relations messages which appeared in news­ for their regular readers. Listings of Project Extend print, on radio, and on TV in every section of the courses or traveling workshops advise readers well in country, AW! attempted to improve the image of the advance of educational opportunities. Columns such as watch/clockmaker. "Bulletin Board," "Material Search," and "Questions & In response to President Carpenter's editorial, Answers" offer a genuine service to members. The one member wrote: "Watchmakers don't deserve a dif­ expanded size and coverage has resulted in relatively ferent reputation than lawyers, doctors, or anybody few complaints about the mix or balance of articles. else. There are some sleazy watch/clockmakers out Horological Times is our most effective form of commu­ there just as there are in every profession." nication with the membership. Another wrote: "The image problem has been with us since technology in general invented horology LIBRARY and relegated the craft, in the eyes ofthe layman, to that The Library is beginning to reveal the many hours of as 'tinkerers.' So long as the layman is so technically tedious, unglamorous work that has gone into it. All ignorant, I feel that elevating our status is a lost cause." books from various acquisitions are individually identi­ Finally, one member observed: "We don't de­ fied with their assigned library number affixed to the serve a better image. Every time I read a local paper in spine and interior of each book. which a watch/clockmaker is interviewed, you can bet Papers and periodical articles, some as much as the term 'dying breed' appears. Perhaps they use this to 75 years old, have been placed in file folders and await try to tell the public they are the only one left who can the assignment of library identification code numbers. properly service their timepieces. Such interviews miss These will be filed for accurate retrieval in the document a golden opportunity to raise our image, and reveal to section of the library. When completely organized, this the public what an exciting and exacting craft this is." library will contain almost every important writing and During fiscal 1991-92, thetaskofimprovingthe document dealing with almost every horological sub­ image will fall squarely on the shoulders it belongs: the ject. Some time during the next fiscal year we expect to watch/clockmakers. The Publicity & Public Relations publish a current library index. Committee will distribute public service, image-build­ ing releases for newsprint, radio, and TV. Any crafts­ MEMBERSHIP man who really wants to raise our image will find it easy If you have been paying attention to the lists of new to have these professionally prepared releases placed in members published monthly in the Horological Times, their local media. Media welcome such material and will you will not be surprised to learn that we have had an use it with no charge for the exposure. The only price increase in membership duringtheyear. At a time when will be a little time and effort on the part of the AWI the ranks of the watch/clockmakers are diminishing, membership. this is a remarkable achievement. We can only specu­ The Publicity & Public Relations Committee late about the reason, but it is obvious that the benefits has already arranged for national positive exposure for of membership far outweigh the annual dues rate of$40 AWI by cooperating with the National Geographic Society per year. in the preparation of a time display scheduled for their

12 Horological Times/August 1991 Explorers Hall in the Spring of 1992, and the sponsor­ ship of the National Science Olympiad "Tic Toe" Compe­ tition involving high school science students across the nation. EDUCATION Education has been AWI's biggest success story this year. Project Extend, which offers tuition-free upgrad­ ingclasses at the Education Center in Cincinnati, Ohio, was launched six months ago. Careful planning and dedication to task has provided A WI members with an education opportunity available through no other simi­ lar trade association. Members have eagerly taken advantage of these opportunities to improve their skills G-S CRYSTAL and learn new ones. Future six-month classes in ad­ vanced watch and clock repair are already in the plan­ ning stage, and may be available in about two years. INSERTER Patterned after the WOSTEP program in Switzerland, there will be no tuition for these courses. There was such a demand for traveling work­ & REMOVER shops during the year that we went considerably over budget in this area. We bad no idea of the desire and need that exists for this kind of grassroots training. Again, no other trade association in the country offers these kinds ofeducational opportunities to its members. A WI has spent over $200,000 this year in pro· viding education for its members. This is because the cost of providing instruction for all students in all programs is subsidized from A WI's general fund. For every student attending one of the travelingworkshops, the general fund contributes an average of $150 toward that student's participation. For every student attend­ ing Project Extend classes, the general fund contributes an average of$250 toward each student's participation. In addition, students who demonstrated a genuine need for assistance with room and board received $250 in grants from the A WI ELM Trust. As we said at the beginning, it has been a very good year, and also a very exciting year! As we take on future educational commitments, we must face the fact that A WI does not have unlimited resources. Our ability to continue and expand such programs is in direct Reverse and REG. PRICE ~0.00 proportion to our ability to maintain cash-producing set in base to reserves sufficient to support such programs. It should move­ be kept in mind that unlike the WOSTEP program in use as Switzerland and similar programs in other countries, ment holder! A WI receives no financial support from the industry or from government. •Designed for fitting Round G-S Hi-Dome and 0 Lo-Dome watch and pocket size crystals.

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August 1991/Horological Times 13 WATCHE~

Robert D. Porter, CMW

Retrofitting a Shipping Stem

he dial shown in Figure 1 has been retrofitted A micrometer measurement of the shipping stem lrwith a new quartz movement to replace an old indicated that it was large enough to be threaded for the mechanical one. The original stem and crown are shown ;original crown to more nearly preserve the original look of above the shipping stem with its plastic crown that came the watch. with the quartz movement. The smaller diameter threaded Figure 2 shows that the shipping stem has been stem shown below the plastic crown is for the replacement cut to length with a carbide graver in the lathe. The movement and will not fit the original tap 10 crown. protruding part is about to be turned to 0.87 mm (0.034")

Figure 1 Figure 3

-

Figure 2 Figure 4

14 Horological Times/August 199 Figure 5 Figure 6 diameter. Figure 3 pictures the 0. 90 x 0.22 mm die at work Figure 6 shows the finished retrofit job which cutting the tap 10 thread. The newly threaded stem is resulted in a happy customer because most of the original shown in Figure 4. sentimental appearance of the watch was preserved. The The original crown has been screwed onto the watch will now keep better time than the old mechanical stem in Figure 5 and is being tested for wobble by slowly movement ever did. rotating the lathe. When necessary, wobbly crowns can be If we watchmakers could encourage the watch made to run true by gently tapping that part of the crown companies to make all shipping stems with a tap IO that is farthest away from the collet near the knurled edge thread, it would make our retrofitting work easier, and with a brass-headed hammer until the crown runs per­ also give them a threadge on the competition ... fectly true. D

I~ VVITSCHI Announces THE WATCH EXPERT '-/ A State-of the-A rt Mechanical Watch Analyzer With a Recession-Fighting Price of $1,680.00

It's clean looking, user friendly, very portable, and look what it can do: • Graph recording of the watch-beats on a LCD graphic display. • Selectable resolution (magnification) of the diagram • Automatic gain control. recording. • Four selectable measuring times. • Numerical display of; rate, beat error and amplitude. • Printer-connection for the printout of the numerical or • Automatic selection of the number of beats for all current graphical measuring protocol.* watch types. Manual selection for any special number of • Built-in speaker to hear the watch, switchable ON and beats. OFF. • Automatic search of the beat number corresponding to * Printer pictured in background is an option. the rate zero of the watch.

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August 1991/Horological Times 15 James Adams, CMW, FBHi

THE LEVER ESCAPEMENT THE WHY OF IT Part 1

ovice, you may be thinking ... "Adams, why are ~ Figure 1 you spending so much time on mechanical movements? The action is in quartz." Well ... let me tell you. The action IS in mechanicals. Translate the word "action," used above, into the word MONEY and you got it. Hey, it's nice· to fix time machines, but why not have variety--quartz, mechanicals, new, old, and true an­ tiques. But you have to be disciplined in the mechanical arts. Later on we can talk quartz, but not now. The lever escapement, to many watchmakers, is a complex mystery. Many watchmakers just bumble through this escapement by bending, pushing, oiling, filing, and so on, and hope for the best. Gang, from now on we are not going to work that way. These next few tomes of learned dissertations will center on just why and how these detached lever escapements work. It would be helpful to you to have on hand a 16 size American pocket watch, preferably with a single roller and a 10-1/2 or 11-1/2 ligne wrist movement. One that you can see the action of the escapement easily would be best. With both movements you will clean and overhaul them. Hey, don't complain, you're now attendingA dams School of Smarts. Just do it, O.K.? Don't adjust or manipulate the escapement in any way! Leave that as is. I want you to observe the escapement action--good, bad, or indifferent--in those movements. In order to obtain a comprehensive knowledge of this subject, we need both theoretical knowledge of the escapement and hands-on practice. Theory alone won't do the job, and hands-on alone won't do. Hands-on only will make a butcher out of you, so let's do both theory and hands-on. The escapement is a very complex combination of parts and their actions. All of the escapement actions are so closely related to each other that to change the A Escape wheel G Fork horn action or function of one, you affect all the other actions B Pallet fork H Guard pin or guard dart or functions to some degree. Without proper knowledge C Pallet arbor I Roller jewel of theory you can, by "correcting" one error, create D Receiving·stone or R stone J Safety roller or guard roller E Let-off stone or L stone K Roller table or impulse roller another error and so on. F Banking pins or bankings L Roller crescent or passing crescent Let's start by identifyingthe various parts of the

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Ask for our brochure on other collectable brass mini-clock styles available with sterling silver plated or gold plated cases! Figure 3. The double roller is indeed in two parts. The roller table carries the roller jewel while the passing crescent is located on the smaller lower table. S. (ta:R?~~ Sejinc. Worldwide Distributors to Horologists escapement by name, then we will both be on the same wavelength (Figure 1). The major and really the only '~J, I ~ variant we will get into here on our studies is the single 234 Commerce Place, P.O. Box 21208 and double rollers. The singer roller (Figure 2) was used Greensboro, N.C., 27420, U.S.A. extensively in the American pocket watch, while the Phone (919) 275-0462 double roller (Figure 3) has been adopted in all other FAX Number 1-800-537-4513 watches. The roller table performs two functions: it

August 1991/Horological Times 17 Figure 4

In a case of overbanking, the A properly aligned fork slot pallet fork has been thrown and guard dart in relation out of action by a sudden shock. to the roller and its table.

carries the roller jewel and also provides a safety action Figure 6. The pallet stone on the left is called the receiving stone to prevent the act of overbanking. Overbanking is the or "R" stone, while the pallet stone on the right is the let-off stone escapement going out ofaction due to the misalignment or "L" stone. The escape wheel is rotating from left to right. of the roller jewel to the pallet fork horn/slot unit; or simply, the roller jewel being jarred to rest on the outside of the pallet fork horn as opposed to being properly aligned within the horn/slot of the pallet fork is much more liable to be bent out of proper alignment (Figure 4). as compared to the double roller. (Study Figure 5 for the The single roller is much more inferior to the degree ofsafety both afford.) The only real reason, as far double roller in its safety action role. In the single roller, as I can see, for the use of the single roller is it was the passing crescent is much smaller than in the double cheaper to produce than the double roller. Question: roller (Figure 5); the guard pin in the single roller Why skimp on that component and spend so much labor damascening and fancying up the bridges? Was it be­ cause of cost or the concept of the double roller was unknown? So it really boils down to the effectiveness of the roller/guard dart or pin actions. Let's now get a handle on the terms used in reference to the pallet fork (Figure 6); as you know, it has two stones. As the escape wheel turns into these stones, the first stone to lock is called the receiving stone or simply the "R" stone. When it unlocks and the escape wheel then locks onto the second stone, that stone is called the let-offstone, or simply the "L •stone. See gang, theory is fun isn't it? And it keeps getting simpler as we go along. Just like the dentist says, "Now, this won't hurt, just don't move." A A

B ~ B / Figure 7

Figure 5. To compare the relative locking depth of a double roller guard dart "A" and the same relative locking depth of a single roller table of roller tables of the same diameter is apparent, arc "A" invades much deeper into the safety roller as does arc "B" . It would take a much larger misalignment of the guard dart in "A" to cause an overbanked condition as is the case of guard pin arc in "B".

18 Horological Times/August 1991 Figure 8 Figure 9

I ' I

The complete pallet fork is called "pallet fork and arbor" or PF&A. This com prises the fork, two pallet stones, arbor or pallet staff, and guard dart or guard pin in the single roller escapement. The opposite end of this fork is shaped into horns (Figure 7) which act as a safety device just prior to the roller jewel unlocking the PF&A. Located at and working with the fork horns is the guard ments ready. I don't wanna hear any excuses why you're dart in the double roller configuration (Figure 8) or not prepared. guard pin (Figure 9) of the single roller. I think, for starters, we covered quite a lot. You REFERENCES might think all that was humdrum, but not so. You and Short Talks to Watchmakers, C.T. Higginbotham I must be using the same terms or else we are not Questions & Answers for Watchmakers, AWI communicating in the same language. Chicago School of Watchmaking You have a whole month to get those two move Personal Experience O

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August 1991/Horological Times 19 HODGE PODGE LODGE

John A. Nagle

Repair Tips

guess this article will give the impression that I am bands or clamps to hold everything in place and this II trying to compete with Jingle Joe's "Bench Tips." wastes time. I clean off the top of the whistle and rough up Just for something a little different, I thought I would just the bottom of the bellows. I then use a great super glue list items that help repairs go a little easier. Individuals called Hot Stuff.™It's available from Satellite City. Their new to the trade might find these helpful and the old­ phone number is (805) 522-0062. Really neat stuff! It's a timers might want to see if there is anything here that they quick two-step system. The instant glue comes in a variety haven't heard. of viscosities that are applicable to a myriad of situations. The first one concerns wooden clock movements. Apply this to the whistle top and place bellows into its I know most of you shy away from these and I also read in proper position. You now spray this unit with Kick It.™ a recently published book that these clocks are strict! y for This almost instantly seals the bond. Should bellows need museums. This tip probably won't help you guys but it replacement at some later date, just pry it off like you did might help clock restorers. to make this repair. Some wooden clocks did use brass bushings right Did you ever have to drill a hole in a piece of from the start. Many, however, just drilled through the glass? There are three good ways. The cheapest is proba­ wooden plate to create a bearing. When it comes time to bly to buy a diamond spade drill. This method produces repair these clocks, repairmen use brass or bushings made the most breaks. Another method is to bore out a piece of of hardwood. If the original bushing was made of wood it brass rod to form a core drill of the desired size. Use clay should be repaired using a wooden bushing. to build a dam around the area to be drilled, apply some While most hardwoods work fine, I suggest using cutting oil and some 80 grit silicon carbide grit grain. Drill Lignum Vitae. It is extremely hard and is also quite oily. It your hole. The fastest, most expensive method is to buy is nature's supply of bearing material. It is very expensive and use a diamond core drill. and, as peculiar as it may sound, it is better to buy it in its Someday you might have to drill a 400-day clock finished form--woodworkers' mallets--than it is to buy it dome. Some models had a threaded post projecting through as lumber. the glass dome on which a handle screwed into place. Use a handsaw to slice off segments of the desired They usually did a rough job of cutting the hole and then thickness and cut bushings using a plug cutter. You can capped it .with a piece of brass to protect the rim. Don't use a drill press to cut a hole in the plate for the new hold the dome by this rim because the metal forced against bushing. You now have a very hard bearing and one that the rim will often cause a crack to run across the glass. is going to remain lubricated. Another silver solder opportunity: The cannon A good oil for lubricating anything involving pinion in the old Sessions and Gilbert 8-day time and wood is Jojobo oil. All natural, it doesn't harm the environ­ strike clocks was driven into position and this pressure ment in its production, use, or disposal. All of these items eventually caused the pinion to split, thus jamming the are available from any of the woodworking magazines. time train. The easiest way to repair this is to clean the Here is a tip that I bet Jim "Assets" Williams pinion, clamp it together, and silver solder it. Press it back doesn't teach in his cuckoo clock class. If you use normal onto the arbor and you are finished. Learn how to silver glues to attach new bellows tops, you have to use rubber solder!

20 Horological Times/August 1991 This isn't easy and I don't want to make it sound like a appearing! Age cracks that have filled with dirt and grime simple tip. Many porcelain and china clocks come into are often difficult to clean. You have this situation occur­ your shop damaged. You will properly service the move­ ring in china and porcelain clock cases and also in clock ment and do everything right, but when the customer and watch dials. Before attempting any cleaning of dials, picks up the clock you still hand him a damaged case. It's insure that the information on the dial will not be affected. pretty depressing but with practice you can remedy this Many are cleaning watch dials by cleaning in the ultra­ situation. This type of damage can often be repaired using sonic using a jewelry cleaning solution. Proceed with epoxy. Many companies produce a two-part solid epoxy. caution because sometimes names and such have been It has the consistency of day. You mix equal parts to­ added to the dial at a later date and will dissolve in gether, attach to the case, and form to approximate shape. solutions. When it is dry, use the various grinders and sanding Another method that is not as fast but is very attachments available for flexshaft tools to finish the sec­ efficient is to soak the item in a 40% hydrogen peroxide tion you have attached. solution. This isn't to be confused with the general stuff Using a clear piece of flat glass, mix acrylic paints sold in drugstores. You can have your local chemist mix until you match the color needed. This takes a lot of skill this for you or get one of your pals working in the beauty and patience. Apply this coating to the epoxy piece. If salon industry to get it for you. To use this stuff, put the there was a pattern, follow the same routine to mix the item in a plastic bag, fill it with the peroxide, tie the bag paint, match the color, and paint the design or pattern on end, and let it soak. It usually takes three days to a week the epoxy piece. Finish by spraying with an acrylic sealer. to clean everything. Again this takes practice and you won't always restore the You can also use a 10% solution of oxalic acid or case to new, but it is still a better situation than returning weak solutions of nitric or hydrochloric acid. They of a clock case missing a chunk of porcelain. course are more dangerous to use and should be applied Ever use dear lacquer? It is usually too thick. It in a well-ventilated room. should be diluted using lacquer thinner. A half and half Well, I guess that is it for now. If I give away too solution will give you a good solution to work with. much information at one time I won't have anything left This could have been included in the discussion of for more tips articles. O china clock case repair, but being the way I am it is now

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August 1991/Horological Times 21 SHOPTALK

Wes Door, CMW

Watch Crystal Manage1nent Part 5 Ordering and Recording

ast month we discussed job envelopes, the Figure 2 shows that we have now ordered IL job take-in book, finding a needed crystal, Items l, 2, 3, and 4. Items l, 2, and 4 were ordered and how to use our "parts on order" book. from one·firm and Item 3 was ordered from a differ­ ent firm. We wrote the date (4/26) on each of these PARTS ON ORDER items while we were placing the orders. It is also a Let's look again at the top of a page from our "parts good idea to write the name of the person who is on order" book. Figure 1 shows four items placed on taking our order in this same column. If a question this order page to be ordered. As we said, we wrote comes up later it is nice to know who took the order. these orders as soon as the watch came in or as soon Look at the "Date Rec'd" column in Figure 3. as we knew that we needed a part and could look up The order for the crystals and staffs came in on April the parts numbers. Item 1 shows the Seiko crystal #300 T 20 AN that we placed on this page to be Figure 2 ordered for our customer, Tom Bows. We wrote this in the first column since this is the company we chose to order from. Item 2 is a re-order for stock; we just sold the last crystal #300 T 12 AN. Item 3 is a Ronda 3572 which we chose to order from a different company (so the date is listed under a different column). In Item 4 we see we need 1I4 dozen staffs #100/ 166. One of these is for a customer's job and two are for stock. We listed this in the first column as we chose to buy these there. Notice the "Date on Order" column is blank as we have not ordered any material yet.

Figure 1 Figure 3 PAGE NtllillER D PAGE NUl{BER D

CUsrom:R. I ITEMS : co. : DATE : Dl\.TE : CUSTOMER : I TEMS : co. DATE : DATE : l\..'11> AND : ON : REC'D : l\..'ID AND ON : REC'D : NUMBER DATE : ORDER NUMBER DATE ORDER --- --:------~--~----,----.-!------

22 Horological Times/August 1991 30th. We still haven't received the Item 3 movement order. Since we are concerned about our crystals, we see Items 1 and 2 are in, so we can proceed. Item 2 is for "SK" (stock) so we can just put it away for future ' use. Item 1 is the crystal for Tom Bows so we can . complete this job now. ~itJe~f!:VJ RECORDING JOBS We need to keep a good record of all repair jobs Wholesale Jeweler & Watchmaker Supplies including crystals. Years ago most stores seemed to 456 West Columbus Drive favor a repair book where one line (all the way across) Tampa, Florida 33602 was used for each repair job. It was very detailed and many still use this system. The advantage was that GASKETS you had watch repair records for a complete year in one book. Not a bad idea. Of course, you still need to Swiss watch case back gaskets. Assort­ write up a sales slip, which is the normal procedure. ments contain 120 gaskets (2 each of 60 Some contend that it takes too much time to record sizes). Re.fills available 2 per package. all jobs so they don't record crystals and other Your choice ultra-thin 0-ring or flat. smaller jobs. Their justification is the fact that if a crystal breaks after fitting, it is not their fault and not guaranteed. Therefore, why take the time to record C 0-ring Style Flat Style ~ it? I suppose there might be food for thought in that ~ #830.400 #830.500 ~ theory; however, I do not exactly agree. There are several reasons for recording our finished crystal work. One reason is to have a record @$:J7~%f.'IS ?$) of the cystal number that we used, so next time this watch comes in for a crystal we can look at our previous repair record and, with a minimum of time, • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • select the correct crystal. We see a lot of the same watches coming back again and again as some REPAIR ENVELOPES By Vigor'" :;;;Ha. SOOl people are very hard on their watches, especially the Each numbered envelope has crystal. It is nice (and good business) to let these two numbered detachable stubs, customers know that you stock their crystal and you can give them even faster service next time. Even if it one for the customer, the other for filing. Envelopes measure is a slow moving crystal that we do not wish to stock, =---==::::== --- 3 1 it will be faster for us to reorder, knowing the num­ 5 /4" X 3 /R'' and come packed ber. 1,000 to a box. h'D. $001

RECORD ON SALES SLIPS No. Series Numbers Here's a method we use which eliminates the repair 61.151 1 to 1,000 record book and yet we record each job. We use only 61.152 1,001 to 2,000 a sales slip book. Here again, we have ours specially 61.153 2,001 to 3,000 printed for us. It is a little more costly; however, one 61.154 3,001 to 4,000 could use this same system with the most inexpen­ 61.155 4,001 to 5,000 sive sales books. Figure 4 shows our sales slips. We 61.156 5,001 to 6,000 have these printed in triplicate (white, yellow, and Only 61.157 6,001 to 7,000 blue) with about 25 sets of three in each book. 61.158 7,001 to 8,000 Remember our crystal for Tom Bows we had to order $J4.9S 61.159 8,001 to 9,000 and it came in on April 30th? The next day, May 1st, 61.160 9,001to10,000 we put the crystal in and now we are recording this per box job. Call or FAX.for Free Tool, Finding ·, and Watch Catalogs! We simply filled in this sales slip at the same time we replaced the crystal with the information shown in Figure 4. Then we remove the top two (8Q~)o47~~271 s* LdlJj copies (i.e. the white and yellow copies) and leave the Toll Free 24 Hour FAX Orders ~ bottom (blue) copy in the sale pad book. Now we place the top two copies into the job envelope with (800) 476~8016* the customer's watch. When the watch is delivered to Tampa (813)229·2715 Local Fax (813)221-8016 our customer, we mark it paid and give them the top *All States Toll Free including Alaska, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, white copy. We keep the yellow copy for the cash 891 and the Virgin Islands

August 1991/Horological Times 23 Figure 4 Figure 5

shows the matching Seiko number indicating that they are the same. Readers who use other crystal systems such as the BB-Perfit System, or others, will want to consult their catalogs to determine whether they want to use a genuine or substitute crystal. By having and using these various catalogs, we can register slip. When my wife is through posting, this choose the one we want. yellow slip will end up in an alphabetic file. These Many crystal manufacturers will automati­ sales slips are printed on NCR (no carbon required) cally notify you of new numbers of crystals as they paper. Now I havemycopyofthese sales books(close become available. Some even offer specially priced to my bench) filed by dates. Since we use the date as assortments of these new crystals. part of our number in the case back after using our issued AWI number, it is easy to look up any previous repair job even several years back. We can look up a SELLING CRYSTALS record by date or by our alphabetic file. Selling crystals can be very profitable ifwe watch the prices that we pay and that we charge. In this article I did not show prices; however, we do recommend GENERIC CRYSTALS quoting prices to our customer first. We can do this Many times we have a choice between the original if we know what our cost is and if we have a fair idea factory crystal or one made by a crystal company. of the time it takes to complete the job. Time is very Figure 5 shows a portion of a page from a Cas-Ker important. Even that time used to write the orders is Seiko crystal catalog showing the crystal we need is so important that we must have a good system. Seiko #310 T 18 AN which is equivalent to PA 464- If this system will work for you, please copy it 64AW (with white reflector ring) or PA 464-64AY or any part of it. Good luck in crystal profits! (with yellow reflector ring). Notice the number under 0 the picture (from the G.S. catalog picture insert) shows the matching

24 Horological Times/August 1991 SALE! KEY TEST SALE! QUARTZ MOVEMENTS FOR Y481 Y482 2035 2025 QUARTZ WATCHES 6-3/ohS 6-3/ohS 6-3/ohS 6-3/ohS $6.75 $6.75 $6.95 $7.75

Y588 V237 V238 3N20 The "KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES" by Ewell 5-l/2x6-3/4 5-l/2x6-3/4 5-l/2x6-3/4 5-l/2x6-3/4 Hartman, CMW is a quick and simple method of locating $9.50 $7.95 $7.95 $9.95 the problem in a quartz analog movement. The only tool 2Y51 FE6320 FE6820 required is a meter. PUW500 5-l/2x6-3/4 6-3/4x8 5-l/2x6-3/4 5-l/2x6-3/4 $9.95 $6.75 $7.95 $9.95 Material and instructions for learning this test are sup­ plied by the AWi-ELM Trust as part of their educational PUW510 PUW211 202.001 280.002 work. There is no charge to any group wishing to learn 5-l/2x6-3/4 3-3/4x6 3-3/4x8-S/4 3-3/4x6-3/4 this test. There are great benefits to learning this in a group $9.95 $26.95 $21.50 $22.95 setting. However, for individuals who may not be able to participate in a group, it is available to them also. 578.004 561.001 561.101 PC21A 5-l/2x6-3/4 6-3/4x8 6-3/ohS 6-3/ohS For more information call or write to the AWI office for an $8.85 $9.50 $9.50 $11.95 information sheet and application form. 0 AT THE LOWEST PRICES ANYWHERE? We~ a complete line of: ETA, Pulsar, Miyota, FE, ISA, UW, Seiko, Harley, Ronda, Remex, Orient, Morioka, Shioiiri. Citizen, Ebosa (Blue Bird), etc. SEIKO TYPE Heavy Diver's Straps on Sale! (heavy buckle): $27.00 per dozen -- (individual straps $2.95 ea.) "ROLEX" STYLE CROWNS SALE: $2.95 SIZE: 5.5mm4.5 mm ' each! 6.0mm 18 PC Asst: 7.0mm I (2 PC each size & color) Asst. # RTC18 -- $44.95

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SLIDING CLASP SIS ...... $2.50 ea. Yellow ...... $3.00 ea. 18 PC Assortment: d•;;; ~l·\'''···· -t .,_.;;· - ~ (2 pc. each size and color) Ass't # SC18 . . . . $34.95 Color: Yellow/ Stainless Steel Size: 6, 7, 12, 15 mm SONG'S TRADING & SUPPLY COMPANY Information & In(l3iries: (213) 622-3966 Fax: (21 ) 622-3018 404 W. 7th St., Suite 203 Los Angeles, CA 90014 NATIONWIDE TOLL-FREE:

1-800-441-1042TEXAS BRANCH OFFICE TEXAS ONLY 1-800-927-7664 1991 TecWATCHES ©

Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author)

Antique Watch Restoratiort© 1991 Part LXVIII The Jacot Pivot Lathe

A~ nother accepted method that can be used for This is to avoid wear on the surfaces of the runners. The ;-.\.'finishing watch pivots is with the use of a Jacot runners are made of hard steel and, since sapphire is pivot lathe. This pivot lathe is used for burnishing pivots harder than hard steel, the sapphire will cut the steel and not for grinding or polishing with gritty com pounds. runners and damage their surfaces. This could make the The burnisher used is a hard steel burnisher. A sapphire runners useless for high class work. The purpose of the burnisher should never be used on the runners of this tool. Jacot pivot lathe is to be used for burnishing pivots to

Figure 1

m '\ ( f I

J

26 Horological Times/August 1991 remove minor grooves and imperfections. The action of the burnisher on the pivot will slightly reduce the diame­ ter of the pivot as well as work harden the surface of the OK, pivot which reduces friction and gives the pivot a wear WE ADMIT IT: resistant surface. Figure 1 shows a Jacot pivot lathe outfit in its YOU'D fitted case. The following is a description of the tool. View PROBABLY RATHER "a" shows the frame of the tool. The base of this frame is BETHINKING held in a bench vise when the tool is used. View "b" shows ABOUT SOME WILD one of the three pivot runners of the tool. This runner is for TROPICAL PARADISE supporting train wheel pivots (other than seconds pivots) THAN ABOUT while they are being burnished. On this runner, there are WHERE YOU'RE 12 different pivot grooves or beds of graduated sizes from GOING TO PLACE 14 to 40. The pivot beds are made in the center of the flat YOUR NEXT WATCH MATERIAL facets at the end section of the runners. The flat facets are OR TOOL ORDER. for the burnisher to rest on while burnishing a pivot. The runner that is shown in View "b" is double ended. The BUT, WHEN YOU DO GET AROUND TO IT... other end is for supporting pivots while their ends are WE HOPE YOU'LL THINK ABOUT being burnished. This end is called a lantern runner. In the GMNG US A TRY! center of the runner is a hub which has the same number of milled slots as there are flat facets on the runner and holes in the lantern runner. These slots are used to position DAVIS SUPPLY the individual pivot beds. View "c" shows the guide bar 333 W. CHURCH AVE., S.W. which fits the slots in the hub. This bar holds the runner P.O. BOX 1140 and keeps it in the proper position. View "d," Figure 1 ROANOKE, VA 24006 shows a protective cap which fits over the end of the (703) 345-8040 runner to protect the delicate pivot disc or lantern runner ORDER: (800) 533-6293 IN VA: (800) 533-1523 while it is not being used. FAX: (703) 344-5153 View "e," Figure 1 shows the pulley which is turned with a bow. This pulley is free to tum around its spindle. Drive pin "f" on the pulley goes between the spokes of a wheel to motiva te the wheel back and forth THE WATCH BAND CO. while the pivot is being bu.mished. The spindle "g" serves 702 Overlook Ave. This Month's two purposes-it is used as a spindle for the pulley as well Cincinnati, OH 45238 Specials! as to support the pivot on one end of the pinion or arbor 1-800-339-6126 while the/pivot on the other end is being burnished. This 8ATl8FACT'ION #7000 GUARANTEED BLK 16mm __ X 1.75 • spindle is double ended. View "h" shows a protective cap fl.month warranty. We pay all BLK 18mm __ X 1.75 for the end of the spindle not being used. View "i" shows poa tai" on all prepaid orders. BRN 16mm X 1.75 ~ BRN 18mm X 1.75 ~ the pulley adjusting screw. The end of this screw has a disc #7000 Lizard Grain #8000 which works in a groove in the pulley so the pulley can be BLK 16mm __ X 1.50 ~ moved back and forth on its spindle. This is for moving the BLK 18mm __ X 1.50 BLK 20mm __ X 1.50 I drive pin into and out of the spoke openings of the wheel BRN 16mm __ X 1.50 #8000 Gator Grain BRN 18mm __ X 1.50 being worked on. BRN 20mm __ x 1.50 ~ View ''j," Figure 1 shows the runner used for #L800LONG supporting seconds pivots while they are being burnished. BLK 18mm __ X 2.00 --- This runner has pivot beds on one end only. View "k" BLK 20mm __ X 2.00 • shows the runner for balance staff pivots. The right-hand #0240 BRN 18mm X 3.00 c end is for burnishing pivot diameters and the left-hand BRN 20mm X 3.00 c end has a disc with assorted sized holes for supporting BLK 18mm X 3.00 • -- BLK 20mm === X 3.00 balance staff pivots while their ends are being finished. #0240 #9000 This is called a Ian tern runner. View "l" shows a burnisher ~- -- - · ~.--:;-:S -- BRN 16mm __ X 3.00 • - . -~· - ·~~-"" · BRN 18mm __ X 3.00 guard that clamps on the end of a runner to guard the BLK 16mm __ X 3.00 ~ - BLK 18mm __ x 3.00 • burnisher to prevent it from sliding up off of the pivot Honey 16mm __ X 3.00 2 being burnished. View "m" shows a pivot gauge for gaug­ Honey 18mm __ X 3.00 c ing a pivot when selecting the proper sized bed in the #2000 TAN 16mm __ x 1.75 c runner for supporting the pivot. This gauge is made up of TAN 18mm __ x 1.75 • two strips of steel set apart in a manner that forms a BRN 18mm __ X 1.75 graduated "V" slot. This slot is scaled and numbered BLK 18mm __ X 1.75 • #5000 usually in fractionsofa millimeter. Thegraduati onsmatch BLK 18mm __ X 3.00 • the sizes on the runners.

August 1991/Horological Times 21 Figure 2 actually being held between centers. Figure 2 also shows the cord of the bow wrapped around the pulley for turning the pulley to motivate the wheel. Note: The cord should be wrapped around the pulley as shown. This is so the top of the pulley will tum toward the operator as the bow is pulled. The bow is pulled as the burnisher is pushed and vice versa. Also shown is the disc on the end of the screw used to position the pulley on its spindle. Figure 3 shows the position of the tool and the work for a right- or left-hand operator. View A shows the Jacot pivot lathe set up for a right-hand operator. That is, the burnisher is used in the right hand as the bow is motivated with the left hand. The burnisher being used is a left-hand model. Note: Left- and right-hand burnishers are determined by their shape when used underneath a pivot. When a burnisher is used under a pivot, if the right top comer is undercut, the burnisher is a left-hand model. On the other hand, if the left top comer is undercut, the burnisher is a right-hand model. View B, Figure 3 shows the Jacot pivot lathe set up for a left-hand operator. In this case, the burnisher is used USING THE JACOT PIVOT LATHE with the left hand while the bow is used in the right hand. Figure 2 shows an enlarged view of a train wheel pivot The burnisher being used is a right-hand model. Note: being burnished on the Jacot pivot lathe. This illustration When setting up a pinion or arbor in the Jacot lathe, there shows how the wheel is held in the tool. The wheel is held should be some freedom between the shoulder of the with one pivot in the center of the arbor holding the pulley pivot and the end of the runner as shown at "a" in View A, while the pivot that is being burnished is held under the Figure 4. This is to keep the end of the runner from burnisher in the proper sized pivot bed. The pinion is scratching the shoulder of the pivot.

Figure 3 Figure 4

A

B

c

28 Horological Times/August 1991 SELECTING THE PROPER PIVOT BED Figure 5 When using the Jacot tool, it is very important to select the proper size bed for the pivot being burnished. If the bed is too large for the pivot, the pivot will not stand up high enough for the burnisher to touch it. On the other hand, if the bed is too small for the pivot, the pivot will stand up too high and the burnisher is likely to make the pivot tapered. Figure 4, View A shows a proper sized bed for the pivot being burnished. Note: The amount that the surface of the pivot stands up above flush with the top of the runner depends somewhat on how much material needs to be removed from the pivot to make it smooth and polished. If much material needs to be removed, it would be better to remove the material in steps by using progres­ sively smaller pivot beds until the proper size and finish is obtained. View B, Figure 4 shows an end view of the runner with a pivot in a bed of the runner. The burnisher runner used has longer pivot beds to support the longer is also shown in position on top of the pivot. This is an pivots. The is shown in Figure 5. The runner shown has a example of the proper sized bed for the pivot. View C, tapered flat facet at each pivot bed. The reason that the Figure 4 shows a pivot resting in a bed which is too small facets are tapered is so the burnisher will make a taper on for the pivot. The pivot stands up too high above the the pivot for the second hand. In most cases, the facets are surface of the runner. This is likely to cause the pivot to straight on runners for .seconds pivots. In this case, the become tapered by the action of the burnisher. pivot can first be burnished with a straight surface in the proper sized pivot bed and then the pivot can be sup­ BURNISHING SECONDS PIVOTS ported in a smaller pivot bed so the taper can be burnished When burnishing pivots that carry a second hand, the onto the end of the pivot for the second hand.

FOUNTAIN PENS WANTED

I WISH TO PURCHASE PENS BY PARKER & WATERMAN WITH FILIGREE METAL OVERLAY & MOTHER OF PEARL INLAY MADE BETWEEN 1900-1930 ALONG WITH OTHER HIGH-GRADE UN­ USUAL OLDER PENS. PENS MUST BE IN EXCELLENT CONDITION FREE OF CRACKS & DENTS FOR THESE PRICES. DAMAGED PENS ALSO WANTED ALONG WITH PARTIAL PENS AT LOWER PRICES.

PAYING $7,000 +UP FOR PARKER OR LE. WATERMAN SNAKE PEN

CLEVES & LONNEMANN JEWELERS STORE: (606) 261-3636 Charles Cleves 319 FAIRFIELD AVE., BELLEVUE, KY 41073 HOME: (606) 491-0354

August 1991/Horological Times 29 Figure 6 Figure 7

BURNISHING BALANCE STAFF PIVOTS burnisher. The l;mrnisher used should be thin enough to Figure 6 shows the Jacot pivot lathe being used to burnish go freely between the pivot and the turned-down section a balance staff pivot. When burnishing conical shouldered of the runner as shown at "a," Figure 7. The burnisher is pivots such as balance staffs, there is danger of the bur­ moved over the end of the pivot from position "a" to nishersliding over the cone of the pivot and doing damage position "d," and then back to position "a." This action to the balance wheel; therefore, one should use a burnisher removes any burrs from the comer of the pivot. Position guard on the runner to prevent this from happening. The "d" is used to flatten and finish the end of the pivot and guard is shown in position on the runner in Figure 6. The positions "b" and "c" remove any burrs from the comer of edge of the burnisher rests against the guard at the same the pivot. Position "a" removes burrs from the diameter of time as the curved comer of the burnisher is resting the end o( the pivot. The surface of the burnisher should against the cone of the pivot. When burnishing conical always oppose the surface of the pivot when the pivot is shouldered pivots, the rounded comer on the burnisher being turned and the burnisher is being moved on the should match the curve on the conical shouldered pivot. pivot. If the radius on the comer of the burnisher is The Jacot pivot lathe is a very useful tool for the greater than the radius of the curve on the pivot cone, the watchmaker who is skilled in its use; however, it takes burnisher will not burnish the cone but a burr will be made much practice to become proficient in its use. On the other on the comer of the cone by the burnisher. If the radius on hand, much damage can be done if one is not skilled in its the burnisher is smaller than the radius on the cone of the use. It is recommended that one should do much practice pivot, the burnisher is likely to make a step on the cone work on junk wheels before attempting to actually use the without burnishing the complete curve of the cone. The tool on pivots of watches being restored. One must have pivot bed should be of the proper size and only the total confidence in its use and always exercise great care straight part of the pivot should be resting in the pivot bed while using the tool. as shown. When burnishing a pivot, as the bow turns the pulley and moves the top of the wheel toward the opera­ BUYING A JACOT PIVOT LATHE tor, the burnisher is pushed; and when the wheel is re­ If one is considering buying a Jacot pivot lathe, it would be versed, the burnisher is pulled back to the starting posi­ safer in most cases to buy a well-made new one. If buying tion. This action is repeated until the desired results are a used one, caution should be used because many of the gotten. The burnisher should be kept clean and lightly used Jacot tools are either badly worn, have broken parts, oiled with a light oil. A light film of thread cutting oil on or have parts that don't belong to the tool. A damaged the burnisher is desirable. The surface of the burnisher Jacot pivot la the is useless as a tool to be used for restoring should have a uniform cross-lined finish. watches. Pay particular attention to the condition of the pivot beds and facets and also the holes in the lantern FINISHING THE ENDS runners. Also pay attention to how closely the runners fit OF BALANCE STAFF PIVOTS the frame of the tool and how well they line up. Make sure Figure 7 shows the Jacot pivot lathe being used to burnish the tool is not rusty. the end of a balance staff pivot. The end of the runner "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next which has a thin disc with graduated holes for pivots is month. used tosupportthepivotwhileitisbeingfinished with the 0

30 Horological Times/August 1991 a number. A special separate copy which is included with each purchased book contains the current ap­ BOOK REVIEW praised value. The owners of this volume can then subscribe to obtain annual published price guides for each clock pictured. The book appears to be carefully edited and AMERICAN CLOCKS, VOLUME 2 (with a special supplied with quality paper and binding. The illustra­ section on Self-Winding Clocks) by Tran Du Ly. Hard tions, almost without exception, have reproduced very covers, 8-1/4" x 11", 336 pages, 1000+ illustrations. Pub­ well with those from engravings showing fine detail. lished by Arlington Book Company, 1991, @$39.50 (soft Henry B. Fried covers@ $25.00).

This companion volume to the first, American Clocks: A Guide to Identification and Prices, contains more of the clocks by American makers but none of which appeared in Volume 1. This new edition contains the pictured products of 19 American factories. The familiar makers such as Seth Thomas, Ansonia, Howard, New Haven, Are You Using Your and Waterbury are represented with many clocks whose pictures have not been generally available to the major­ ity of collectors. AWi Identification Mark? The products of other less prolific producers such as Boston Clock, Chelsea, Dorche, Gilbert, Hatch, Howard, Kroeber, Landis, Poole, Prentiss, Sempire, United States Clock Co., and Waltham are very well If Not You Should Be! covered. A highly featured, original section is that of the clocks of the Brooklyn-based Self-Winding Clock Com­ pany. This company was an important maker ofelectri ­ cally wound clocks. These were made very often in con­ junction with well-known Connecticut makers as well as governmental offices. They supplied self-winding and self-correcting clocks regulated by telegraph sig­ nals supplied by the Western Union Telegraph Com­ pany and other agencies. They supplied master and sec­ ondary clocks in great quantities. A special section of 110 pages are devoted exclu­ New From G-S sively to the clocks of this company's varied production. Like all other clocks shown in this catalog, the illustra­ tions are taken from original factory catalogs. In this TMG XMG section are 19 pages of official repair and adjustment Thick Mineral Extra Large Mineral procedures and 89 pages depicting 135 models which Blass Crystals Blass Crystals also include movements, pendulums, dials, and hands • Mirrored polished edge • For popular fashion watches as well as accessories. Martin Swetsky, president of the • Sizes 26.0 mm to 36.0 mm • Sizes 36.5 mm to 42.0 mm Electrical Horological Society and a Brooklynite, sup­ in 5110 mm graduations in 5/10 mm graduations plied a fine short history of this company. Other electrically stimulated clocks from Poole, Takes the place of high-priced, Landis, Sempire, and E. Howard are found with other genuine Seiko and other brands. clocks of these companies' products. Your wholesaler has "TMG" and Chris Bailey, former Curator of the (Bristol) "XMG" in stock American Clock Museum, has supplied adequate histo­ ries of the other major companies in this second volume. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• • Germanow-Simon Corporation 1-aoo-448-3400 • The editor-publisher also includes sections on • Dept. 420, P.O. Box 1091 •Rochester, NY 14603 Ext. 466 important tips, methods at arriving at current values, • Fax (716) 232-3857 ideas for buying, selling, and becoming more knowl­ • Please send me: edgeable. • D Set TMG-24 (2 dozen, 21 sizes) in a drawer with index cards. • D Set XMG-12 (1 dozen 12 sizes) in box with index cards. Most of the clocks pictured from their original • D Send Price Information. catalo~ show original price, dimensions, services (chime, • running time, etc.), case descriptions, model names, • Name ______~ and most often the original price and the date of the • Address ______catalog from which the illustration was taken. Each clock has a number but no current price • City ______State __ Zip ___ guide. Because the book is hardbound and may last • Wholesaler's Name ______many years, to include prices which at best might be ephemeral, the publisher-editor has assigned each clock •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• August 1991/Horological Times 31 PENDULUMS: ADAPTING THE FORMULA PART2

By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, *FNAWCC

n the preceding article, we calculated an mistake of including the intermediate wheel in the II accurate replacement for a missing or broken train count. Many watchmakers base the intermedi­ pendulum. The formula used then can be adapted ate wheel as the center wheel and its pinion as an here for other types of clocks. idler, then erroneously divide the center pinion into the intermediate wheel count. Figure 5 shows that it INDIRECT ACTION is this intermediate wheel which is the idler. Observe Sometimes we find a train of wheels in which the that it merely connects the center arbor gearing center arbor carrying the minute hand is not directly driven by the barrel or mainspring wheel. Instead, an alternate wheel's pinion is driven by the mainspring wheel. This allows the clock to run for a full week. In many 8-day clocks, this intermediate wheel meshes with the center wheel pinion. However, in some American shelf clocks, the center wheel itself has been omitted, leaving only a large pinion. The intermediate wheel is then placed so that while its wheel drives the center pinion, it also drives another train wheel. In such a case, this intermediate wheel must be ignored in our count. It is used only to transmit power to the center wheel, and its action with the center pinion and the next wheel is that of a chain or pulley. Therefore, we consider a center pinion a wheel rather than a pinion. These 8-day clocks almost always have con­ siderably short pendulums and an odd number of beats for the train count. In Figure 5, for example, the main wheel which carries the mainspring has 80 teeth. This wheel meshes with the intermediate wheel's pinion above. The intermediate wheel itself (center arbor) (3rd wheel) (4th wheel) (escape wheel) (pallets) has 60 teeth. But notice that the intermediate wheel 24 43 43 33 2 =10,169% v.p.h. 8 6 6 ~~ drives two wheels--one to the left is the 24-tooth center arbor and the other is the 8-leaf third wheel (third pinion) (fourth pinion) (escape pinion) 10,1691/ 2 = 1691/i v.p.m. pinion. 50

Figure 5. The intermediate wheel is not included in the train count of THE INTERMEDIATE WHEEL this 8-day clock, for that wheel relays motion from the center arbor to At this point in the counting, we must not make the the third pinion without changing the gear ratio.

32 Horological Times/August 1991 to the third pinion. Even if the intermediate wheel was ten times as large and had a thousand teeth, the speed of the third wheel turning in relation to the center arbor would not change. Imagine that instead of an intermediate wheel, ESCAPE - 30 TEETH WHEEL we have a chain-pulley. The speed and number of 12 LEAVES relative turns would then depend only upon the THIRD number of teeth in the center arbor pinion divided by WHEEL the number ofleaves in the third pinion. In this case, the center arbor's 24 teeth cause the 8-leaf third pinion to tum three times with each rotation of the center arbor. The mathematical formula is shown in Figure 5.

MULTIPLIED BY PALLETS Each escape tooth is acted upon twice by the pallets: once when the tooth enters the pallet and once when it leaves, thus the pallet multiplies the train still fur­ ther by two. The sum of vibrations the pendulum 0 makes in an hour is 10, 169-1 /2. Dividing this by 60 minutes in the hour tells us that the pendulum (center wheel) (third wheel) (escape wheel) (pallets) vibrates 169-1/2 times in one minute. 30 2 = 3600~60 = v.p.m . 96 x _ 901_2 _ With the odd numbers of train wheel combi­ 12 -- nations and a short pendulum, the wheels are able to occupy positions in the plates which would other­ Figure 6. The pendulum of this typical regulator clock vibrates 60 wise restrict spacing and interfere with the striking times per minute. The large wheel and pinion count enable smoother train. action.

YOUNG-NEAL COMPANY, INC. 1838 Elm Hill Pike, #116 Nashville, TN 37210 INFORMATION ORDERS: $10 Minimum (615) 889-0060 (800) 251-8580 • Abrasion resistant. • Finished polished edge, 1.5 mm thin (.063"). We accept MasterCard & Visa • Sizes KT 3 to 32 in V4 sizes (17.7 mm to 33.0 mm). Your Wholesaler • Set KT-97 9a4 dozen, in drawer. Selling only has them In stock. $206. EVEREADY WATCH CELIS at competitive prices! rGe;==~:~~~~-----~~~~~ I Dept. 420, P.O. Box 1091 • Rochester, NY 14603 I I Please send me: D Supplement of watch names I . and corresponding G.S I D KT-97 92/:i doz. in drawer. Cylinder Fancy, Flat Fancy and I Our Crystal Fitting Services I D KT-49 4% doz. in drawer. ''/!i.' Waterproof. I D lnformationontrade-inofold D Sendn8'1Vsupplement#10with I Are the Very Best. I crystalsets·smallmonthlypay- all assortments in rotation, I ments - no interest or carrying issued since Cat. #200 I Offering in Most Cases Same Day I charge. D I do not have #200 Catalog. I Service. If You Haven't I Name I I Addr~ss Phone I Tried Us, You Should. I City State Zip__ I I Wholesaler's Name I ~------~ August 1991/Horological Times 33 CLOCK TRAIN COUNT AND CORRESPONDING PENDULUM LENGTHS

Third Escape Pendulum Pendulum Third Escape Pendulum Pendulum Center Wheel Third Wheel Escape Vibrations Length in Center Wheel Third Wheel Escape Vibrations Length in Wheel Pinion Wheel Pinion Wheel per Minute Inches Wheel Pinion Wheel Pinion Wheel per Minute Inches

128 16 120 16 30 60 39.10 84 8 80 8 32 112 11.20 112 14 105 14 30 60 39.10 84 8 78 33 112.2 11.15 96 12 90 12 30 60 39.10 80 10 75 10 30 60 39.10 96 8 76 3() 114 10.82 64 8 60 8 30 60 39.10 115 10 100 10 30 115 10.65 ~--~-~-~----- 84 7 78 26 115.9 10.49 68 8 64 8 30 68 30.45 96 8 70 8 64 30 70 28.73 80 30 120 9.75 84 7 70 30 120 9.75 72 8 64 30 72 27.15 84 7 78 27 120.3 9. 70 --~-----·--~- ---- 90 8 84 31 122 9.46 75 8 60 32 75 25.05 ----- 84 7 .78 7 28 124.8 9.02 72 8 65 8 32 78 23.15 100 8 80 8 30 125 9.00 ---- 75 64 32 80 22.00 90 8 84 32 126 8.86 96 8 84 30 126 8.86 84 \ 64 30 84 19.97 100 10 96 10 40 128 8.59 86 64 8 30 86 19.05 84 7 78 7 29 129.3 8.40 88 64 30 88 18.19 100 8 78 8 32 130 8.32 ----- 84 7 77 30 132 8.07 84 7 78 7 20 89.1 17.72 ------....,.------80 72 8 30 90 17.37 84 7 78 30 133.7 7.90 ~------90 8 90 32 135 7.73 84 7 78 ·------7 21 93.6 16.07 96 8 90 8 30 135 7.73 75 8 60 8 40 93.8 16.00 84 78 7 31 138.2 7.36 94 8 64 30 94 15.94 84 8 78 28 95.5 15.45 84 80 40 140 7.18 108 12 100 10 32 96 15.26 120 8 71 32 142 6,99 84 9 84 30 98 14.66 84 7 78 7 32 !42.6 6.93 84 7 78 7 22 98 14.66 100 8 87 8 32 145 6.70 84 8 78 8 29 98.9 14.41 84 7 78 7 34 151.6 6.00 80 . 8 80 8 30 100 14.08 96 8 95 8 32 152 6.08 85 8 72 8 32 102 13.54 84 7 77 35 154 5,94 84 8 78 8 30 102.4 13.44 104 96 8 30 156 5.78 84 7 78 7 23 102.5 13.40 84 7 78 7 35 156 5 .. 8 120 9 96 8 30 160 5,50 105 10 100 10 30 105 12.58 84 7 78 ,'7 36 160,5 5.45 -----~----·------~- 84 8 78 ' 8 31 105.8 12.58 84 7 78 7 37 165 5, 15 84 7 78 7 24 107 12.30 132 100 8 27 165 5, 17 96 72 8 108 12.10 84 78 38 169.4 4.88 84 78 8 32 109.2 11.80 128 8 102 25 170 4,86 88 80 8 30 110 11.64 84 7 78 39 173.8 4.65 84 7 77 7 25 110 11.64 84 7 77 40 175 4.55 84 7 78 25 111.4 11.35 84 7 78 40 176 4.43

SAMPLES OF ODD TRAIN AMERICAN CLOCKS This system of arriving upon the number of Third Fourth Escape Pendulum Pendulum Center Wheel Third Wheel Fourth Wheel Escape Vibrations· Length in vibrations per minute the pendulum should make, Wheel Pinion Wheel Pinion Wheel Pinion Wheel per Minute Inches enables us to select the correct type of pendulum for 26 42 7 45 39 162.9 5.25 a given clock. In most cases, resorting to ready-made tables ma:H:es the job easier. The above list gives the 24 43 43 33 169.5 4.87 36 36 35 25 175 4.58 most frequent train wheel combinations and their 26 50 7 40 7 40 176.8 4.39 corresponding pendulum lengths. 45 36 6 36 20 180 4.25 47 36 36 20 188 3.90 D

Odd or fractional beats, such as 169-1/2, If you have any ideas to share with can be easily regulated to time by adjusting the regu­ the Horological Times staff, lating screw or nut found in practically all pendulum send you letters to: clocks. Figure 6 illustrates a typical train layout and train count. This train is usually found in regulator AWI CENTRAL clocks using seconds pendulums with fine compen­ 3700 Harrison Avenue sation. The large wheel and pinion count enables Cincinnati, OH 45211 smoother action. The seconds hand is attached to an elongated pivot on the escape wheel pinion.

34 Horological Times/August 1991 PROJECT EXTEND (ii'i Precision lf_sJ Crystal Cutting Co. PROJECT EXTEND PROVIDES SELF-HELP EDU­ CATIONAL OPPORTUNITIES FOR: 1) The newly trained individual seeking to gain speed and profitabil­ "For All Your Watch Crystal Needs" ity. 2) The marginal or self-trained individual seeking to fill gaps in their training. 3) The experienced craftsman seeking to extend skills in certain specialties. In order to provide access to a maximum num­ E ber of AWI members, there will be no tuition for the programs offered at the A WI Extension Development SERVI Center. Attendees will be responsible for their transpor­ tation and room and board. Motel rooms are available SATISFACTION GUARANTEED ON ALL WORK for approximately $50 per day; most courses last five Supplies of Expert Crystal Cutter days. A limited number of grants will be available for All Major Crystals With 10 yrs. Experience those who need help with room and board.

PROJECT EXTEND'S TENTATIVE SCHEDULE LOWEST The course schedule presented here is TENTATIVE. Prices in the Country However, those interested in specific programs are encouraged to register now. Class sizes are limited and SHIP TO registrations will be accepted by earliest postmark or fax date. Each class requires a registration fee of $50 Precision Crystal Cutting Reference & Price list which will be refunded when you attend the class. For 23940 Eureka On Request specific course and registration details, please contact: Taylor, Ml 48180 A WI CENTRAL, 3700 HARRISON AVE., CINCIN­ NATI, OH 45211; (513) 661-3838; FAX (513) 661- (313) 287-3480 • FAX (313) 374-2927 (24 hrs.) 3131.

1991 CLOCK BEAT AMPLIFIER

Sept. 16-20 Jewelry Repair Marshall Richmond Sept. 23-27 Clock Repair HI David Christianson (restoration) Sept. 30-0ct. 4 Clock Repair I James Lubic (beginners) Oct. 7-11 Clock Repair II Roland Iverson (advanced) Oct. 14-18 Clock Repair VI John Nagle (striking & chiming clocks) Oct. 21-25 Quartz I (beginners) Gerald Jaeger Oct. 28-Nov. 1 Quartz II (advanced) Robert Bishop Nov. 4-8 Watch Repair I James Lubic (staffing, poising, and timing) Nov.11-15 Watch Repair II Harold Herman (hairspring vibrating and finishing) 1992

Jan. 13-17 Clock Repair V James Lubic Suspension Unit Bellows (prep. and completion of CMC exam) / Jan. 20-24 Watch Repair VII James Lubic No. 15579 No. 15614 No. 10066 (prep. and completion of CMW exam) #3517 #3581 $22.50 each Feb. 10-14 Quartz III Alice Carpenter $27.00 each $87.00 each (prep. and completion of CMEW exam) Minimum Order ls $15.00. We Stock Clocks, Watches, Books, Feb. 17-21 Watch Repair III James Lubic Visa & Mastercard Are Welcome. Tools, Repair Parts For Cuckoo Free Delivery On Orders Over $35.00. (complicated) Clocks, Urges, Hermie, Atmos, Our 148 Page Catalog Is $3.00, 400-Days, Mainsprings, March2-6 Lathe I (beginners) James Lubic It's free With Any Order. Movements, etc. Over 3800 March 9-13 Lathe H (advanced) Archie Perkins Timesavers Products 1n stock! March 16-20 Watch Case Repair Marshall Richmond March23-27 Clock Case Repair James Williams 1-;(~\ Box 400. Algonquin, 1L 60102. u.s.A. 1 c:rc \!AOS'-·· ,/--./ J FAX : 1-800-552-1522 m ~- To Order Call: 1-800-552-1520 I 708-658-2266

August 1991/Horological Times 35 ing a horse, carriage, and lamp post. It was made in BULLETIN either May 1965 or 1966 and is identified as model BOARD 701. A useable replacement is sought. ELGIN WATCH SERIAL NUMBER 00,000,002 A. NEW REQUESTS Chester Gilbert, Morens Valley, CA, has a 20/0, 15 jewel Elgin, First Model 492 ladies' wristwatch cased ADMI QUARTZ WATCH TIMING MACHINE inan 18Kcase. This watch has the following markings Steve Bingham, Denton, NC, has an Admi quartz on the movement: watch timing machine, model TAC II, serial #0204-B. He is seeking an instruction manual and wiring Elgin USA: 15 jewels: 00000002 diagram as well as a source to purchase a power supply. If you can supply a manual and wiring dia­ The case is marked: gram we will copy it and return your original to you. If you do not know a source for spare parts, perhaps Cased and Timed by Elgin National Watch Co. you can provide the name of a servire agent who will J. Milhening Inc. repair the unit. m 18K

SONCEBOZ CHART DRIVE TIMEPIECE Speculation is that this was an early "test market" David Brown, Sr., Zachary, LA, has a chart drive piere. Can anyone, perhaps a former Elgin employee, timepiece for a General Electric recorder which rec­ explain this extremely low movement number? ords electrical current fluctuations. The movement is marked: Societe Industriel de Sonreboz SA For General Electric It has four mainsprings in line and runs on either D. SUPPLEMENTAL INFORMATION balanre (slow) or governor (h. speed), which are fea­ tures different from anything Mr. Bingham has seen In March we sought information regarding the cor­ before. He is seeking any repair information anyone rect balance staff to use in a Webb C. Ball (Hamilton might have. 999) railroad watch. We have since secured that information, but in response, Robert A. Pool, a re­ markable "old-timer" from Pompano Beach, FL, shared some insights and personal experiences regarding B. RESPONSES this famous railroad watch. We are sure this will be 9f interest to some "Bulletin Board" readers. MECHANICAL CLOCK TIMER MOVEMENTS I have a Webb C. Ball watch (Hamilton 999). It is FOR 24-HOUR RECORDERS an 18 size (not 16), full plate model. The movement number Three readers responded with help for Frank Borges, is 503217, apparently made about the time I was 'bom-- Waterford, CT, who sought a mechanical clock timer 1906. (Strangely, the former Swartchild & Co. of Chicago movement for 24-hour recorders. shows this model as an 18 size semi-bridge watch in their catalog of the 1920s.) This full plate model is a lever set, EARLY AMERICAN CLOCK CASE open face (stem at 12), double roller, 19 jewel movement. A Martin Kuzkin, Spring Hill, FL, wrote in response to 17 jewel (called "full jeweled watch'~ would have passed Kenneth West's request for information on an Early inspection. American clock case. He was presently working on a It has a bimetallic cut balance wheel and Breguet clock with such a case and would be willing to share overcoil hairspring with micro-metric regulator and two information with Ken West. meantime screws. It is adjusted to five positions and of course temperature and isochronism. It has sapphire pallet jewels and safety pinion. The white enamel, single sunk dial has boldface Arabic numerals and 'bold blue steel spade C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED hands. The case is an unengraved "Scepter" (which tells us it is 10 karat yellow rolled gold plate). The stem is at 12, open face with glass crystal, and screw back and bezel. The UNITED METAL GOODS MFG. CO. case number is 9334352. James Campbell, Lowell, NC, is seeking a replare­ There was only one repair scratch mark (#4800), ment motor and movement for any electric clock made makes one wonder if this watch ever saw seroioe on the by United Metal Goods Mfg. Company, Brooklyn, NY. railroad. Inspectors were appointed all along the railroads The movement in question is housed in a case contain to be checkpoints for required two weekly inspections

36 Horological Times/August 1991 to assure accuracy of 30 seconds, which was properly ends ofthe staffwith the consequent chatter on account ofa logged by the watchmaker inspector. It was further required loose fit. This may be puzzling when you get a pretty rough that all railroad engineers, firemen, brakemen, conductors, looking record on your rating machine tape, also perhaps yardmen, signalmen, track crew foremen, and smtion masters one olive hole jewel and one straight hole jewel. Result? It (in fact, all who were in charge of any phase of running would have different amplitude of the balance in opposite trains who had any responsibility to keep those steam behe­ positions. All of these are due to uninformed orcareleSB re­ moths from running into each other) have their timepieces placementofbrokenjewels or refitting with largerjewels be­ overhauled and properly adjusted once each year to the cause ofthe less refined staves with largerpivots used in the above specifications. This usually cost about $5.00 unless cheaper models. new parts were required, much more expensive than the average unadjusted watch which cost about $1.50 to clean. Oh yes, there were price cutters then! They would dunk a watch in white gasoline or blow it out for perhaps 50 cents. One old handyman used to come in and buy main­ Do you have information springs from my father. He charged the old man 50 cents for regarding this month's requests? the spring. My father was tol,d that the handyman charged his customer 50 cents. When he queried the ol,d "tinkerer" Do you need information about about how he made any money that way, the old fellow one of this month's responses? replied, "Well, yes that's pretty cheap but I gits lots to do!" One still finds traces of their bizarre methods in the old watches. I call them "soft solder experts," because without it U so, send a self-addressed, stamped business­ these earnest "benefactors" ofmankind coul,dn't exist. size envelope and your request to: •Bulletin Except for the fact that it does not have the maker's Board,• c/oAWI Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, name on the dial, the Ball watch conforms very well to the Cincinnati, OH 45211. railroad requirements. Webb C. Ball himself was asked to D formulate these governmental specifications for the watches made by all the principal, quality, jeweled watch factories in the United States. (They were required to be made in the USA.) These watches sold (in the early 20th century) for around $50.00 to perhaps $65.00 until that ol,d devil, insidious inflation, reduced the value of our money still more. My father, WilliamA. Pool (theonlyoneinafamily ofsix children to leave the Illinois farm), went to Valparaiso The new QTM 901 is the most complete University in Indiana to graduate a pharmacist. In spite of his love for pharmacy, in 1914 he went into the jewelry diagnostic test meter on the market. business, largely becauseofhis liking for mechanical things. It is designed by a watchmaker, for a watch­ He was appointed official watch inspector in the small farm maker, and is watchmaker affordable. town ofBushnell, Illinois. The junction ofthe Chicago Burl­ The QTM 901 tests: ington & Quincy Railroad and the Topeka Peoria & Western 1) Magnetic pickup of coil. was located here. Also, there was a Monmouth Branch ofthe 2) Battery and circuit output voltages. CB&Q. My job as a 12-year-old was to take a pocket watch 3) Current consumption. over to the railroad station and get the time as it came in 4) Coil resistance. over the telegraph key from the Naval Observatory in 5) Watch mechanically. Arlington, Virginia (12 noon inArlington--11 a.m. in Bush­ It has a variable voltage power supply, is easy to use (one nell, Illinois). ?-position switch), and video tapes are available for From the information I have on the nearest Hamil­ demonstrations. Available from most material supply ton model, it would seem that there are three different staves houses. used for the double roller. The new numbers went into effect THE BEST PART! Mareh 1, 1962. All this for onlv $395.00! NEW NO. OLD NO. DESCRIPTON 607010 126 Double roller, large collet, pivot 10 607011 126 Double roller, small collet, pivot 11 607012 126 Double roller, small collet, pivot 12 For information, call or write: There is also a single roller staff made for probably the earliest model FINN TIME It is apparent that the smallerpivot sizes were used in each successively higher jeweled model. There was a PRODUCTS, INC. tendency, however, for watchmakers to stock the cheaper 200 Lake Avenue staves and the cheaper straight-holedjewels rather than the Suite202 olive-holed ones used for the top grades. Also, in this case Lake Worth, FL 33460 you may find different sized jewels used on opposite (407) 533-11 03

August 1991/Horological Times 37 Old ffTatches

Charles Cleves

American Railroad Watches

A" merican railroad watches are starting to stir up interest HAMILTON A'at the shows again. The most valuable of these are the 18s, 946, 23j; 940-942, 2lj; 944, 19j; 936-938, 17j Howard, Hamilton, and Illinois. Some people collect these 16s, 950, 23j; 960-990-992, 21j; 952, 19j; 972, 17j watches by the company while others collect them by certain features. One friend of mine collects only 23j and up. Another SOUTH BEND person I met collects those watches with up-and-down power 18s, 327-329, 21j; 323, 17j indicators. It is better to specialize and study the market rather 16s, 227-229, 2lj; 223, 17j than buying just any old pocket watch. What makes a watch railroad approved? BALL In a previous article on Illinois p~ket watches, I wrote All Balls 18s, 16s, 17-19-21-23j about a train accident in 1891. The wreck occurred because two trains were on the same track in a head-on collision due to one ILLINOIS of the conductor's watches being off time by 4 minutes. There Bunn Special, 18-16s, 21-23j; also Bunn 18-16s, 17-19j was a commission appointed, and by 1893 they came up with A. Lincoln, 18-16s, 21j the following standards: Sangamo Special, 16s, 19-21-23j The watch must be open face, 16s or 18s. It had to be a minimum of 17j and adjusted to at least five positions. The SETH THOMAS watch had to ke~p accurate time to a gain or loss of 30 seconds Maiden Lane, 18s, 25j; No. 260, 21j; No. 382, 17j a week. It had to be adjusted to temperatures of 34 to 100 degrees fahrenheit. The escape wheel had to be made of steel E. HOWARD WATCH CO. with a double rolleron the balance wheel along with a microme­ 16s Series, 0-23j, 5-19j, 2-17j, 10-21j; also No. 1, 21j ter regulator on the balance. It had to be lever set and wound at 12 o'clock. The grade had to be stamped on the back plate. The ROCKFORD dial had to be bold black Arabic numbers painted on a white 18s, Grade 918-905, 21j; Winnebego, 17j; background. The hands also had to be bold and black. also Grade 900, 24j By 1899, a list of railroad-approved watches was 16s, Grades 545, 525, 515, 505, 21j; 655WI, 21j; compiled. Here is the list: and Grade 405, 17j LON GINES WALTHAM 18s, Express Monarch, 17-19-21-23j Vanguard, 18-16s, 19-21-23j 16s, Express Monarch, 17-19-21-23j Crescent St., 18s, 19j; 18-16s, 2lj Appleton-Tracy, 17j; also No. 845, 21j BRANDT-OMEGA Riverside, 16s, 19j; Riverside Maximus, 16s, 23j; 18s, DDR, 23j; CCCR, 23j; CDR, 19j, CCR, 19j and 16s, No. 645, 21j CPR, 18-16s, 17j; also CTS, 18-16s, 17j All through the years the list of railroad-approved watches was changing, and by 1930 all of the 18 size models ELGIN were eliminated from the list. Another important feature was Veritas, 18-16s, 21-23j that all of the watches had to have a minimum of 19 jewels BWR, 18-16s, 17-19-21j instead of the previous 17. The watches also had to be adjusted Father Time, 18-16s, 21j for isochronism. This means that the watch will keep almost the Grade 349, 18s, 21j same time regardless of the amplitude of the balance wheel

38 Horological Times/August 1991 Here is a list of the railroad-approved watches from wristwatches which I am not listing at this time. one particular company in 1930. The list varied slightly from railroad to railroad, but most of these were standard. 23j Waltham Vanguard, Serial No. 29,634,001 and higher 2lj Elgin B.W. Raymond AMERICAN WALTHAM WATCH C0.16s 21j Elgin model No. 571 23j Premier Maximus 23j Hamilton 950B 23j Riverside Maximus 21j Hamilton 992B 23j Vanguard 6 position with winding indicator 21j Ball (Hamilton) 999B 23j Vanguard 6 position 21j Ball 435C 21j Crescent St. 21j Zenith Extra RR 56 21j No. 645 19j Vanguard From these lists, you can see that collecting railroad­ 19j Riverside approved watches is not as easy as it may seem. What was approved earlier was deleted later. There are also many watches BALL WATCH CO. 16s which were considered railroad grade watches before 1899, but 23j Official R.R. Standard for some reason failed to achieve railroad approval, even though 21j Official R.R. Standard they met the requirements. For the past 12 years American 19j Official R.R. Standard railroad watches have not changed much in price. There seems to be some renewed interest in them at the shows recently. ELGIN WATCH C0.16s Perhaps the time has come and the prices will once again 23j Veritas escalate as they did in the late 1970s. It would be very interest­ 21j Veritas ing to try to assemble a set of railroad-approved watches off the 21j B.W. Raymond 1930 list. The nice feature about collecting railroad watches is 21j Father Time that most models can be bought in mint condition between $150 2lj No. 270 and $300. It doesn't take a lot of money to build an impressive collection. HAMILTON WATCH C0.16s 0 23j 950 21j 990 2lj 992 19j 952 19j 996 AWi Material Search Network HAMPDEN WATCH CO. 16s 23j Special Railway 2lj New Railway 19j Railway EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to work in conjunction with the AWi Movement Bank. If you can HOWARD WATCH C0.16s supply any of the items listed here, please send details to All 23j, 2lj, and 19j the Material Search Network. Do not send the items. Members requesting these items will be advised of their ILLINOIS WATCH CO. 16s availability and will cont091 you direct. 23j Sangamo Special 23j Sangamo 23j Bunn Special 21 j Bunn Special U5 Tissot 11.7T-1 Set Bridge, Part #445/600 21j Sangamo 21j Abe Lincoln 19j Bunn U6 Rolex 193 Winding Pinion, Part #410/662 SOUTH BEND WATCH CO. 16s 21j 227 21j 229 Ifyou can supply any ofthese items, please contact: AWi 21j 295 Material Search Network, AWi Central, P.O. Box 19j 293 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211; Fax (513) 661-3131. 0 By 1957, the 19j models were eliminated from the list along with all of the older 21j models. The list now was down to the following eight models. This list also included several

August 1991/Horological Times 39 By J.M. Huckabee CLOCKMAKING BITS CMC, FBHI Aootd...

ADJUSTING LENGTH OF HAND HUBS and STRIKE mAINS THAT FAIL TO START

Q. Replacement hands for older American a. How do you cope with the strike train that clocks often have hubs that are too long. For instance, fails to start? I find the governor fan to be heavy on one the hub in a calendar or hour hand has excess length. side. How can this be poised? How can these be shortened? They are usually made of thin brass and cannot be sawed or cut with a file. Do A. This question struck me speechless! Yes, I you have a method for the problem? know most fans have a heavy side; I also know some do not start with the same vigor as others, but never dreamed that this is a common problem. I, therefore, discussed this A. I know the problem quite well. A sequel to the at our local guild meeting, and to my amazement several problem is how to expand or reduce the hub size. people had the same complaint. This appears to be most My method is to cut the hub to length and file away frequently found in newer clock movements which have the rough edges. Your question suggested that a saw and very small pinions of low count. file are not the correcttools. However, we do not have much Some workmen reported adding a bit of weight to choice in this case, so let's figure out how to use the saw the fly to correct the poise. Others fold over the fly edge to and file. correct the poise. Still others replace the mainspring or I use a wood dowel about a quarter inch in diameter increase the weight poundage. Somehow I had no knowl­ by six inches long. Taper the end so it can be inserted tightly edge of these repair methods. into the hub from the hand front-side. A sharp pocketknife Now let's discuss some of my personal ideas. First, will easily work the dowel to shape. Now you have a good I cannot believe a clock manufacturer will build a movement handle and back-up inside the hand hub. Use a fine blade with an obvious flaw in its design. Therefore, we conclude in your jewelers saw and cut the hub to length. Rotate the that there is a problem which robs power and the unpoised hand as the cut progresses and cut into the dowel but don't fan becomes a symptom rather than a problem. cut it off. Once the piece is released, file the edges with the To explore some of the things that rob power, hand yet affixed to the dowel. File right into the wood and check pivots for endshake, scored pivot surfaces, and clean up the hub edges. This is a job that works out nicely other forms of binds. Be sure the mainspring is clean and on the first try. properly lubricated. The dowel may be used to stretch the hub size; or For movements with very small pivots and pinions, with pliers, the hub may be reduced by forming it lightly on try this experiment: Leave the pivots of the fly unlubricated, our dowel. 1'm speaking of the type of hub that has a split as well as pivots of the preceding wheel. Observethetrain's in its side. ability to start and again after these pivots have been oiled. While on the dowel subject, a hub may be tight­ You may suddenly realize the lubricant used on the larger ened in the hand by inserting the dowel tightly, then slip the pivots has a viscosity too high for the smaller fans. If this is hub in a close-fitting hole of your bench block. Now a flat­ the indication, a lubricant used for pocket watches may be faced punch can be used to tighten the hub. This can also more suitable for fan pivots. be used to "upright the hub" in a hand. I confess this as a new-type problem in my expe­ This situation, like many other problems in clock rience. But I also leave you with the assurance that I have repair, has a simple and easy solution. I enjoy the inter­ never found it to be a problem that could not be resolved by change of such ideas in our local trade guild. Try it at your careful inspection and correction elsewhere in the gear next meeting. train. O

H you have a subject that you would like J.M. Huckabee to address in a future article, send It to: •Ask Huck,• c/o Horological Times, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211.

40 Horological Times/August 1991 ROCK QUARRY

Fred S. Burckhardt

A Game Just For Watchmakers

~u ne day I was having a few beers with a friend of Didjaever go to get a part from the parts drawer mine, Jasha Aronowitz. We used to call him A to and knock over the whole drawer? Z, but that has nothing to do with this story. I just thought Didjaever drop a balance into a jar of one-dip and you might be interested. it was too deep to reach with tweezers? Jasha is also a watchmaker, so naturally the talk Didjaever have the basket come loose in the clean­ got around to repair. We started to play that famous ing machine while it was in the spin cycle? watchmaker's game; DIDJAEVER. In case you have never Didjaever try to get out a rush job and everything played this game, the rules are very simple. The first that can go wrong does? person says "Didjaever" and then asks if you ever did a Didjaever flip a shock spring, spend an hour look­ certain thing. For example: "Didjaever spill a cup of coffee ing for it, and find it on the movement? onto the tap of your bench and ruin a basket full of watches that Didjaever get all the work out except one job, and just came out of the cleaning machine?" If the other person or that's the one the customer calls about? persons answer no, you get a point. If there is a yes answer, Didjaever smile and be nice to a customer when you lose a point. As you c.an see, it is a very simple game. they brought back a watch you worked on three years ago, There are other rules, but they are not important. Besides, and they tell you it never worked right but they never had I don't want some of you getting confused. chance to bring it back? Now that you know all the rules, let's give it a try. Didjaever lose a small screw in the soft center of a piece of pithwood and not be able to find it? Didjaever tighten the screw next to the coil and Didjaever try to get a clock movement with a slip, breaking one or both coil leads? broken mainspring out of a tight-fitting case? Didjaever knock your loupe out of focus while Didjaever knowingly deliver a job that wasn't using both hands, knowing if you let go, you'll have to going right and have the customer tell you later how good start all over? the watch is running? Didjaever get a watch all together and find you Didjaever try to do the customer a favor by trying forgot to put in the hack lever? to get a little piece of lint from the escape wheel, slip and Didjaever try to ease out a crystal to do a short-cut break a pivot? job, slip and scratch the dial? Didjaever put a self-wind chronograph together This list can go on and on, but you can see how the and find the mainspring was slipping? game is played. Of course, there are some who would Didjaever do a beautiful job on a watch, checked it never admit these things have happened to them. As for for several days, and then have it stop while you are me, I can't remember any of them ever happening! delivering to a customer? Didjaever have the clutch wheel slip out of place while casing a movement? This usually happens when After about 20 beers apiece, we decided to get on you are doing a minor job like tightening a crown. home. I toldJasha how much I enjoyed our little game, and Didjaever drop a wheel and roll over it with your suggested we do it more often. As I watched him walk chair, or step on it? down the street, I thought back to the time when he was Didjaever mess up a customer's watch while they winding a mainspring on a very large clock. The click were watching? came loose, and instead of letting it go, he held onto the Didjaever try to tighten the set lever screw and key and it spun him around like a child's pinwheel in a have half the head break off? windstorm. The poor guy hasn't been right since. O

August 1991/Horological Times 41 Association News

NEW YORK watches, watch and clock parts, jewelry repair tools, Peter Laetsch, President of Watchmakers of Switzer­ ring sizers, electric soldering machines, air compres­ land (WOSIC), addressed the Horological Society of sors, and just about anything connected with the New York at their meeting on June 3, 1991. His topic trade. was "The Future of the American Watch Repairer." At For more information contact Karl Farnlacher, a time when many treat this subject with extreme 1404 Neva Dr., Dayton, OH 45414; (513) 275-3172. pessimism, Mr. Laetsch exuded great hope and much optimism. His talk was a stirring, upbeat analysis of how conditions are slowly changing in favor of the OPEN HOUSE watch repairer. He predicted that in about 6 or 7 years there would be numerous job openings and salaries would be very high. The prophecies were The Watchmakers Association of New Jersey extends based upon two main trends: (a) the dwindling work an invitation to all watchmakers, clockmakers, force, and (b) the increase in repairable watches. hobbyists, and collectors to attend one of their monthly meetings of September 10, 1991/0ctober 8, 1991. The monthly technical programs and discus­ NORTH CAROLINA sions will keep you abreast of the latest advances The 1991 convention of the North Carolina Watch­ and servicing techniques. Have your questions an­ makers Association took place May 31, June 1 & 2 in swered by experts in all phases of horology. Charlotte, North Carolina. They meet in the First Presbyterian Church Friday evening was the annual old tool auc­ on the corner of Springfield and North Union Ave­ tion, a fun auction of donated tools from members nues in Cranford, New Jersey. and selected tools from material suppliers. For further details, call Paul Richter (201) Saturday morning Bernie Tekippe presented 797-1620. a new design of skeleton clock. Details were given on clock history, the gearing, parts acquisition, depthing, design, and assembly. Saturday afternoon August F. Cornell from Syracuse, New York hosted a presentation on "17 UPCOMING CONVENTIONS Jewelry Repairs Without the Use of a Torch." Sunday morning Henry B. Fried presented a slide program on "The History of Wristwatches." The membership elected the following offi­ Nebraska & South Dakota Jewelers Association cers for 1991-1992: Eric Parris, president; Rick 86th Annual Convention Dunnuck, first vice president; Chris Wiles, second August 23-25, 1991 vice president; Alice Carpenter, secretary-treasurer; Kearney Ramada Inn -- Kearney, NE Buddy Carpenter, technical director; Jack Leonard, chairman; and Emilio Aponte, publicity director. Horological Association of Indiana The 1992 convention will be in May at Atlan­ Fall Workshop and Annual Meeting tic Beach, North Carolina. September 21-22, 1991 Anderson Holiday Inn -- Anderson, IN OHIO New York State Watchmakers The Watchmakers Association of Ohio will hold their third annual auction on Sunday, October 13, 1991, Annual Convention 12 noon, at the American Legion Hall, Southway October 4-6, 1991 Post 144, 3253 South High Street, Columbus, Ohio. Waterloo, NY Any item you wish to sell should be brought with you the day of the sale. Bring these items early Florida State Watchmakers Association so that potential bidders will be able to look them Annual Convention over prior to sale time. The hall will be open at 9:30 October 25-27, 1991 a.m. Ramada Hotel -- Fort Myers, FL Auction items may include: watchmakers' tools, benches, bench lamps, clocks, clock cases,

42 Horological Times/August 1991 Pickle Barrel

Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

Making and Installing Boxes and Bezels

1-..J andcrafting boxes and bezels for stone set- Wewillassumeitisa 12xl0mmstone. Ifthisisaflat 11 I tings on finger rings or any other piece of stone, depth is no consideration. If it is a faceted jewelry is usually far more expensive than buying stone and the old bezel is not filed below the seat, the manufactured ones. Most any size or shape of a only consideration is that the new bezel is wide stone setting is available from :findings specialty enough to bend over the edge of the stone. Depthing suppliers to fit standard size and cut stones. How­ can be important in setting faceted stones, for the ever, many stones needing settings are not standard culet (point on bottom of stone) should not protrude cut or size, and settings must be made to fit since into the inside circle of the ring. However, the reason none are available. Even with the ones that are avail­ for a grooved ring mandrel is so that a faceted stone able there is an added cost ifonly one piece is needed ring with the culet protruding through into the inner and ordered. Many suppliers have a minimum order part of the ring can be put into the groove while or a handling charge for a single piece order, and with rounding the ring or when tightening the bezel or the cost of postage, especially if the stone has to be prongs. sent in for a select fit, the cost of the manufactured A rolling mill is almost a necessity to obtain setting could easily be more than what you can the correct thickness of the metal for a bezel, which handcraft it for. should be from .3 mm to .5 mm depending on the size Handcrafting the box or bezel can also elimi­ of the stone. For a 12xl0 mm rectangular stone, the nate the waiting time, because often back ordering length would be 44 mm, but due to the thickness of is involved, and this can sometimes take from four to the metal and the four bends, 2 or 3 mm should be six weeks. To cany an invento:iy of findings, espe­ added to the length. The width should be 3 or 4 mm. cially for a small one-craftsman operation that would To make the bends, starting at one end, cover most jobs you might encounter, would involve measure 6 mm and make a 90-degree bend. Measure thousands of dollars. Most of it would be unused in 10 mm and make another similar bend. From there, a lifetime, so the most practical method that I've measure 12 mm and make a third bend. Measure 1O found is to cany a token findings inventory which mm and make a fourth bend, which should form a includes the most used :findings in heads, prong rectangle (see Figure lA). The inside measurement settings, spring rings, jump rings, and the findings should be 12x 10 mm. After adding the 2 or 3 mm to that we use almost daily. By having a small rolling allow for the thickness of the metal and the bends, mill and a stock of karat gold, you can handcraft when the last bend is made and the two ends meet, most of the boxes and bezel type of settings you the first 6 mm may be a little longer, but it can be encounter the need for. Handcrafting jewelry re­ lapped to make that side of the bezel an inside quires experience, common sense, and a goodly measurement of 12 mm. When this is done, mark the amount a ingenuity, but it surely enhances one's excess and remove it by sawing or filing. Butt the reputation and earning power. ends together. With the stone laying face down on First I will give a step-by-step instruction on the bench, drop the bezel over the stone (it should fit how to make and install a bezel for a rectangular loosely enough that it can be lifted off the stone with stone. This being a replacement for a worn or dam­ tweezers without lifting the stone). With the joint aged bezel, the first step is to remove the stone. Next, butted together, heat slightly and flux. Cut a small file or saw off the old bezel, making the surface flat. piece of solder and same color and karat as the karat

August 1991/Horological Times 43 gold bezel, and set the bezel up with the heavy-duty you burnish too much at one place, the stone will be tweezers on the bench heat pad. Then with a flux forced down at that point and will never come to brush, apply the solder on and across the joint. Heat level, regardless of further burnishing. This can also until the solder flows and makes a good bond. Check be done with a small flat bottom punch with the ring again and make sure that it fits the stone. File the on a steel mandrel by tapping the punch with a brass inside of the solder joint smooth if necessary, but do hammer. When using the punch method, care must not remove any more metal than necessary until be taken not to damage the stone or the edge of the after the bezel is installed. bezel. Since the ring surface is already prepared Finishing can be done by trimming any rough and flat, make sure that when the bezel is placed on spots on the edge of the bezel where it comes over the the ring it sets flat. It can then be held in place with stone by either filing with a very fine cut file, or binding wire or locking tweezers. If using locking trimming with a flat bottom engravers graver (about tweezers, use as little pressure as possible so that a number 38 or 39). Polishing can start with a small when it is heated the pressure of the tweezers does hard felt buffing wheel on the polishing motor charged not distort the shape of the bezel. with tripoli abrasive. This should get into the corner At this point it is best to flux one small spot where the bezel is soldered to the base of the ring. where the bezel is to join the ring. In applying heat, Larger felt wheels with tripoli can then be used to keep in mind that the bezel is very thin metal and the remove file and burnish marks. A cotton buff wheel ring is much heavier, so it will require more heat on can then be used to polish the entire ring, and final the ring than the bezel to bring them to the melt and finishing it using a cotton buff charged with rouge. flow temperature at the same time. CAUTION: If too The ring can then be washed with a solution of soap, much heat is applied to the thin bezel, it can detergent, and ammonia in an ultrasonic tank, or cause it to melt in spots and distort. When the scrubbed with a washout brush if no ultrasonic tank solder has flowed on this one spot, cool the ring and is available. A commercial solution made to remove make sure the bezel is in perfect alignment and polishing abrasives can be used as well as the soap setting tight against the ring. Now heat the top of the and ammonia solutions. It can then be rinsed in hot ring and the bezel enough that as the flux is applied water, or better yet, steamed if a steamer is available. it will turn white. Cut 8 to I2 small chips of solder This would eliminate having to use a drier as when and place them around the bottom of the fluxed bezel cold rinse is used. A caution should be considered with a flux brush, which will flux the solder as it is before boiling or steam cleaning, for pearls and other placed. soft stones can be damaged by the heat. Next start applying heat over the top of the ring and bezel. Start on the side of the bezel opposite HANDCRAFTING BOX SETTINGS where the spot of the solder was flowed to hold the This is similar to handcrafting bezels, only a little bezel in place, and as the solder flows keep moving more complicated, and can be used for square, the heat and pulling the flowing solder around the rqund, rectangular, or oval stones that are faceted on bezel until it has completely flowed around it. This the bottom. Box settings are available from specialty should now leave a nice little radius completely findings suppliers in sizes for standard cut stones. around the bezel, making for a neatly finished job For stones other than standard sizes and cuts, they after the stone is set. If there are places where the can be handcrafted. I will try to explain step by step solder did not flow, these places can again be fluxed, how to make these boxes. more solder added, then heated until it flows in, Numbers I, 2, 3, and 4inFigure IBshowcut­ ,making the solder joint complete. With practice and outs for sides and ends to make a box setting for a experience, one can become proficient at making and rectangular stone. Numbers l and 3 are sides, and 2 installing these bezels. and 4 are ends. These can be put together with gold solder to make a rectangular box. However, they can SETTING THE STONE be laid out as in Figure ID and cut out of one piece Now the stone must be set. Place it in the bezel and of metal, thus requiring only one solder joint. To save check to see if any metal need be removed from the a lot of figuring, an easy way is to measure the length inside of the bezel to make a seat that will permit the and width of the stone, making a mark on a piece of stone to depth properly and be level and straight paper for the length and one for the width. These when completed. Observe how much metal pro­ marks are represented in Figure IB and ID, Num­ trudes up over the girdle of the stone. Any excess bers 1, 2, 3, and 4 by the broken lines. At an angle of height can be filed off before setting the stone. When 70 degrees (Figure IB, #3) draw a line from each end, this is done and the stone is in place, take a triangu­ taking into consideration the depth of the stone lar needle file and cut a "V" notch in the corners to the below the girdle and the height above it, and estimate girdle of the stone. Usually a hand burnishing tool the width of the sides and end pieces. After the will bring the edge of the bezel over the stone. drawing is complete, take a pair of sharp scissors In burnishing, do a little at a time until there and cut out an end piece and a side piece which can are places over the edge all around the stone. Should be used to draw Figure ID. When this is cutout, glue 44 Horological Times/August 1991 Figure 1 t I l l 6mm 10mm 12mm 1omm 6mm

A

-"Solder Joint

-... 1

------3 4

it to the piece of metal that the new box will be cut red and either quenching in water or letting it air­ from. As you can see, it will take a fairly large piece cool. This will render the metal to a dead soft condi­ of metal to cut the one-piece box; however, the four tion. pieces can be cut from a strip the width of the box and When the metal is prepared and the patterns the pieces can also be glued to the metal and sawed laid out (either by marking or gluing the paper to size. If the metal need be rolled through the rolling patterns on it) the pieces or the one piece can be mill several times to achieve a thickness of .3 to .5 sawed out with the jewelers saw. I usually use a 6/ mm (depending on how large the box should be), it 0 blade for metal this thin. If using the one piece, it will get hard and brittle, so it should be annealed should be annealed before bending to lessen any frequently if very much thickness need be reduced. chance of breaking or cracking while bending. The Annealing is done by heating the metal to a cherry bending can be done with smooth jaw parallel pliers, (Please turn to page 49) August 1991/Horological Times 45 TIME LOCKS

David A. Christianson, CMW, CMBHI Copyright© 1991

Timelock Movement Servicing

he first safe timelock was introduced in 1873, and for service capacity took on the responsibilities of the fully trained lr 50 plus years the timelock movements along with the professional. Newly employed vault technicians were trained safe or vault's boltwork were serviced by the local watchmaker. only in the rudiments of timelock servicing. The quality of If the movement needed extensive repairs, often a replacement service declined markedly. The industry standards deteriorated. movement was shipped in for exchange (Figure 1). The end results: poor training (if any), lower standards of As the usage increased, the various safe and vault acceptable timelock servicing, poor service, and dramatically manufacturers began fielding teams of service technicians in deteriorated timelock movements that are now demanding various regions to service the safe and vault equipment. Often­ extensive restoration in order to function reliably again. times the service technicians who were trainedin the mechanics Today very few well-trained timelock movement tech­ of safe and vault installation, repair, and opening of "locked­ nicians are employed by the major manufacturers' service out" safes were also trained in the basic servicing of timelock departments, and fewer professionally trained watchmakers. movements. Their training in this area consisted of cleaning, Outside service contractors do the servicing of timelock move­ oiling, and adjusting timelock movements, along with diagnos­ ments, some with well-trained technicians and with qualified ing movement failure and the exchange of movements. Each of watchmakers supporting them. Unfortunately, many of these the major companies maintained a staff of qualified watchmak­ service contractors are not trained at all in timelock movement ers in key locations to recondition and rebuild those movements servicing. Those with ethical standards use independent watch­ that could not be simply and efficiently serviced in the field. makers to do the movement servicing. Those without blunder Both the Mosler Company and the Yale & Towne their way through with disastrous results. Company maintained a complete apprenticeship program to train their safe and vault technicians in the repair and servicing SERVICING FREQUENCIES of timelock movements. In fact, the Yale & Towne Company The frequency of timelock service has changed considerably went so far as to send many of their technicians to the former over the years. In the beginning, timelock servicing was per­ Kansas City School of Watchmaking to better learn the finer formed once a year. This service consisted of a complete points of watch repairing techniques. disassembly, visual inspection, cleaning, and lubricating. Over Instead of using an apprenticeship program to train the years it has evolved (degenerated?) to the point of an annual their vault technicians, the Diebold Company took an opposite "inspection." This annual inspection consists essentially of approach and attracted watchmakers from the better schools winding the timelock movements up to "0" hours on the dial. If and trained them as safe and vault technicians. They also were the balance wheel shows "good motion," then the movement quite adept at attracting watchmakers/vault technicians from meets the inspection standard and is certified for another year. their competition as well. The Diebold Company did have a If one of the three movements fails to meet the test, then it (and limited apprenticeship program in-house, but nothing as com­ only it) is serviced. Leaving the other two alone until they fail plete as Mosler's and Yale & Towne's. later on is not a very reliable system, especially when the vault's Until about 20 years ago (1970) this was the status quo opening time and the prevention of an expensive lockout is in the safe and vault equipment service industry. Qualified dependent upon the proper functioning of one newly serviced professional watchmakers and well-trained service technicians movement and two potential failures. were responsible for the maintenance, repair, and installation of timelock movements. But as the costs of training increased and SERVICING METHODS the costs of maintaining a professional calibre staff soared, the The proper methods of timelock movement servicing follow major manufacturers and service companies felt the need to cut sound horological principals and practices: corners in order to retain their profitability. 1) Remove all timelock movements from the timelock At first, through attrition, the professional watchmak­ case. ing staff was cut back, and then the apprenticeship programs 2)Completelydisassembleeachmovement.Keepparts were shortened. Those trained only in a limited movement from each movement separate, since each wears a bit different-

46 Horological Times/August 1991 ly, and intermingling worn parts can cause unneededproblems. many companies and for many technicians that seem to be less 3) Visually inspect the plates, wheels, pivots, pinions, knowledgeable or more greedy ... or both. bushings, and jewels for wear, breakage, and fatigue. 4) Repair and/or replace worn, fatigued, or broken 1. The Annual Inspection Method. components. This method of annual inspection is used by at least 5) Thoroughly clean all timelock movement compo­ one major manufacturer and by many untrained independent nents. Any horo/ogically accepted method will work, whether it service contractors as well. This method consists of winding the be ultrasonic, infrasonic, vibrasonic, or by hand. movements (as previously described) and observing the motion 6) During and following the cleaning procedure, keep of the balance wheel. If it is quite active (a 2702 motion of the all components protected from dust, lint, and other contamina­ balance wheel) the service company does nothing and collects tion. its $300 to $750 annual inspection fee. When one of the 7) Reassemble each movement. Inspect the power train movements fails, the service company simply discards the for proper sideshake, endshake, and train freedom. faulty movement and installs a new one. A replacement move­ 8) Lubricate all pivots and bearing surfaces, remem­ ment can cost the manufacturer around $70; it can cost the bering not to over-lubricate any bearing surface. Use a high­ independent service contractor $250. Yet, with the excessively grade, nonspreading lubricant, one appropriate for each type of high annual inspection fee, it is a viable service procedure. The application. loser is the safe and vault user who is paying the excessive 9) Apply the proper reserve power on each movement service fees and getting the poor service to begin with. train. Refer to previous timelock articles in the "Horological Times" for the method prescribed for each type ofmovement. 2. Ultrasonic Cleaning Method. 10) The platform escapement on each movement re­ Ultrasonic cleaning is a viable and efficient method of quires particular attention: Balancepivots must be individually cleaning timelock movements. Unfortunately, it also has the pegged, and balance jewel assemblies must be disassembled, capabilities of being used and abused. The unscrupulous tech­ cleaned by hand, andpegged dry. The balance assembly should nician often runs the fully assembled movement through the be removed from its bridge, dipped in hairspring cleaner, and ultrasonic bath, oils it, and re-installs the movement into the dried in clean, sifted sawdust. The pallet jewels should be timelock case without inspecting for breakage, wear, or fatigue. cleaned in pithwood. The ultimate loser, again, is the timelock user who pays ex­ 11) Lubricate the balance jewel assemblies and im­ tremely high prices for this service and ends up in a short time pulse faces of the pallet jewels with a light, high-grade watch with a needlessly ruined movement. lubricant. 12) Put the balance EXACTLYin beat. This is essential 3. Graphite Method. to the proper starting and functioning of the timelock move­ The laziest of technicians will remove the timelock ment. movement, blow in a gross amount of dry graphite power, and 13) Install the platform escapement into the movement then "tamp out" the excess. This will provide a "good motion" and apply a partial wind (not more than 2 full turns of the to the timelock movement for a while, thus satisfying the mainspring). If the movement does not start and have proper contract. motion, it has a mechanical problem and the movement needs further, critical attention. DO NOT rely on a more fully wound 4. Oil Painting Method. mainspring to power the movement and give good balance Another interesting method of "servicing" the timelock motion. Correct the problem NOW! Any movement that has to movement employs the "oil painting method." In this method, be wound all the way to "O" hours (which is usually 4-1 /2 turns the movement is liberally painted (brushed) with oil to provide of the spring) before it starts is a potential failure. lubricant and freedom to the timelock train. Of course, no 14) Clean and lubricate the timelockcase, ifyou have attention is paid to wear, fatigue, or breakage. WD-40 can be it. substituted here for painting with oil. Of course, the corrosive 15) Install the movements into the case. Re-synchro­ nature of WD-40 is added to the destruction caused by unno­ nize the movements so that they each trigger the timelock ticed wear, fatigue, and breakage. opening mechanism at "0" hours. 5. Drip Method. There are no substitutes to success and no room for This procedure is similar to the oil painting method error in timelock movement servicing. Your skills are tested to except that the drip method employs a large screwdriver dipped the utmost. Remember that these movements are literally "locked in oil instead of a small brush dipped in oil. The resultant away" in the vault until they themselves trigger the opening of destruction of the movement is the same. the door. 6. Movement Rotation. LESS-THAN-SATISFACTORY This method involves the servicing of one movement SERVICING MEIBODS once every three years (for the majority of the timelock cases Throughout the years, costs of training have risen, as well as the that contain three movements). In this method, the useful life of costs of servicing timelock movements. As such, short-cuts in each movement is diminished considerably over an annually service have tended to evolve. Unfortunately, these short-cuts serviced movement. Lubrication seepage and deterioration have, in many cases, become standard operating procedures for occurs in less than a year in a movement that is in service every

August 1991/Horological Times 47 single day of the year. Fatiguing metal will mix with this deteriorating oil to form a cutting compound that will further destroy the movement.

CONCLUSION Tue servicing of timelock movements is an exacting and highly ethical professional activity. Anything less than the use of sound horological procedures results in the premature destruc­ tion of these movements. So many of these "less-than-ethical" servicing meth­ ods have occurred in the past decade or two that most of the older movements coming in for service are requiring major restoration and repair in order for them to continue in service. Figure 2. Portable ultrasonic cleaning machine used by many field service technicians for This restoration work, however, is still less expensive than the cleaning timelock movements on location. Beaker is filled with ultrasonic cleaning solution replacement of the older timelock mechanism with newer ones and suspended in the water-filled tank. Following a 10-minute cleaning, the beaker is (costing in the $1500 to $2000 range), yet this restoration work emptied and refilled with rinse solution and run in the water-filled tank for another 10 does require the abilities of a highly trained and highly skilled minutes. Movement components are then dried with a hair dryer or a movement dryer. horologist. Figure 3. This larger ultrasonic That which led to this restoration situation is uncon­ tank is more useful for cleaning scionable, but it certainly has led to a business that will put to the several timelock movements at test all of your highly developed skills as a professional horolo­ one time in the.repair shop. gist. 0

OTA'1'$XllN 'l' OF AOOOUN'l'. 9 Kendalluille Tnil. '"#~ 4" 18lJY M ~~~ .. ~~ IJ!.'QJ l!!i<®l!Il!l~ !ID~~m~~~h ~!?ii DEl.A.LER :CN

V £ ~ttimfl!S~ !Vl1®tC~e £Ii~ ~rEVlE~ll:lT a

·'d"/'· 4.M : I_ -rff;~'°'~t ~-z;.,.z;- ~ .4 ,,. -Lww 2 .k ~ ef4~v _ I ·= · . ~. I L ~ i:W lw Figure 4. 'One-Dip' hairspring cleaner used to hand-clean the balance assembly, jewels, f.' y=T and escapement. Each of these components are then dried in a box filled with sifted boxwood sawdust. In the pas~ before portable cleaning machines, the whole movement .. < ! ,,~ was cleaned using this hand process, except the chemicals used were benzine as a ·'' .··r ._ I · cleaning agent and cyanide as a brightening agent. - --- 1------"'\.._ _._.._,-,.._...... _~- , -- - i ·I.. . .,: --t------...... ,..-- 1 - 1 ~ ______l-_ ,­I_ --1--- - - 1= 1=· --1------LI: _

Figure 5. A typical portable repair bench used for field servicing movements on location Figure- 1. Timelock·1---- service invoice from a local watchmaker.- This' -1884 statement'- of at the bank or business using timelock protection. Field servicing consists of inspection, account shows the cleaning of a 'double chronometer (Yale #1 timelock movement) and cleaning, lubrication, and adjusting only. Movements req uiring more attention were locks' along with the cleaning of 'inside boltwork' for the First National Bank of generally exchanged for reconditioned ones and then sentloacentral repalr facility for the Kendallville, Indiana attention of a professional watchmaker.

48 Horological Times/August 1991 should be removed. If any should, it can also be sawed or filed. To further strengthen this box, a piece of wire (either round or square, 1 mm dia.) can be fitted just inside the opening in the bottom of the box. Heat it, flux it, and place small pieces of solder around it. Apply heat with the torch and flow the sol­ der around it, making it a solid base for the box. Although this is not necessary, it will give much added strength and stability to the box. To make a ring from this box, a shank can be gold-soldered to each side of it (Figure 2). Before setting the stone, the box can be ornamented by piercing (drilling) and then filing in a design of your own, making small circles, triangles, ovals, or a Figure 6. Typical work center for the more complicated servicing oftimelock movements. Movements requiring more than inspection, cleaning, and lubricating are brought here for combination of these. Setting the stone, polishing, such restoration work as bushings, jewelling, pivot repair, balance re-staffing, and and finishing can be done as was explained in the escapement work. first part of this article on bezels.

In next month's article we will discuss prob­ lem ring repairs. 0

Figure 2 PICKLE BARREL Box (Continued from page 45) or even with chain nose pliers and a chasers ham­ mer. Hold in the pliers along the line where the metal is to be bent. Then start the bend with your fingers, tapping it square with the chasers hammer, keeping Gold SolderI Joints the pliers resting on something solid like the steel bench block. After the bends are made, check the measurements by putting the stone in the setting. The girdle of the stone should fit where the dotted line shows in Figure 1. It is not critical as long as there is enough metal over the girdle of the stone to bend over the edge of the stone when set to hold it securely. With the ends aligned, heat enough that when the flux is applied it will turn white. A piece of fluxed solder should be placed in the corner where the ends meet, then enough heat applied to melt and flow the solder. By moving the heat, solder can be pulled the full length of the joint. Add more solder if there is not enough to flow the full length of the joint. Again put the stone in the box, and with a scribe, mark around the top edge of the stone and remove it. With a triangular file cut a "V" in the corner to the mark. With square end flat nose pliers, bend the edge from the marked line to form a bezel. After BUY• SELL all four sides have been bent parallel with their opposite sides, the stone can be put in place (see HIRE • RELOCATE Figure lB, Numbers 3 and 4). This is to see how LEARN •FIND much of the top of the bezel needs to be removed to leave the correct amount of metal to burnish over the edges of the stone. Any excess can be removed with Classifieds in Horological Times a file; or, if too much exists, it can be sawed off using help you do what you want to do! the jewelers saw. With the stone in the seat, check the bottom of the box to see if any excess metal

August 1991/Horological Times 49 The Atn.erican Watchmakers Institute Holds Annual Meeting June 25-30, 1991

he 31st Annual Meeting of the American Watch­ lrmakers Institute took place June 25-30, 1991 at the Radisson Hotel, Greater Cincinnati Airport. The in-service meeting of the Research and Edu­ cation Council (REC) was held June 25-27. Trustees of the Educational, Library, and Museum Charitable Trust held their meeting on Friday, June 28th, at AWI Central. AWI Affiliate Chapter Delegates met Friday, June 28th. Their keynote speaker was Mr. Scott Chou, General Manager of the Technical Department, COSERV. That evening a small reception was held at AWI Central for the reopening of the Orville R. Hagans Museum, which was closed for some time due to renovation. The attendees were then taken to AWI's newest project, which was their Education Center. NEWLY ELECTED OFFICERS, 1991-92. In foreground, AliceB. The AWI Board of Directors held their meetings Carpenter, President; Back, left to right: Fred S. Burckhardt, June 29-30, with the President's Reception and Banquet on Secretary; James Adams, 2nd Vice President; Wes Door, 1st Vice Saturday evening. Annual awards were presented at the President; Marvin E. Whitney, Treasurer. banquet, among which were the following: Guillema DeAngelis, CMW was this year's recipi­ ent of the 1990DickLang Award, which is given to the in­ dividual who achieves the highest grade on the Certified Master Watchmaker exam. Richard Cox, CMC, was presented the 1990 Hor­ ological Association of Indiana award, which is given to the person who achieves the highest grade on AWI's Cer­ tified Master Clockmaker exam. The 1991 Affiliate Chapter Achievement Award was presented to the Horological Association of Virginia. The Watchmakers Association of New Jersey received First Place in the ELM-Charitable Trust Recycled Watch Cell Contest. The highlight of the evening was the presentation of the Fellow, AWi Award, which went to Mr. Ewell D. Hartman. The following photos show some of the events RETIRING DIRECTORS (left to right): Donald R. Loke, Marshall which took place during AWI's meetings. F. Richmond, Robert F. Bishop, Arnold Van Tiem, and Paul D. Wadsworth.

50 Horological Times/August 1991 Affiliate Chapter Keynote Speaker, Scott Chou, Senior General NEWLY ELECfED DIRECTORS (left to right): Robert A. Nel­ Manager, Technical Dept., COSERV. son, James Adams, Gerhard M. Hutter, Robert L. Macomber, Benjamin Matz, Joseph L. Cerulfo, and Wit Jarochowski.

The 1991 Affiliate Chapter Achievement Award was pre­ sented to the Horological Association of Virginia. Accepting Rick Dunnuck, Delegate of the North Carolina Watch­ the award was C.E. Hardy, Delegate of the HA V. Paul D. makers Association (right), presents to James Broughton Wadsworth presented the award (right). (left) an Appreciation Award from the NCWA.

EWELL D. HARTMAN, CMW Recipients of this award must be nominated by the FELLOW, AWi AWI Honor Awards Committee. This committee must then The title "Fellow, AWI,• the highest award given by A WI, was determine that the candidate meets the criteria set forth in the bestowed upon Mr. Ewell D. Hartman cif Richmond, VA at A WI Constitution, which states that a "Fellow, A WI" shall be an A WI's Saturday evening banquet June 29th, 1991. individual whose outstanding and meritorious contribution to the field of horology has enriched humanity on a national or international level. The A WI Board of Directors must then concur that the nominee meets these high standards. Ewell Hartman, known affectionately as "Mr. Enthusi­ asm" for the spirit he generates whenever he speaks at watch­ makers' conventions and functions, is a bench watchmaker and past president of AWI, having served two terms. During Mr. Hartman's presidency, AWI seminar activity was stepped up due to a great need for special training for watchmakers coping with the influx ofnew electronic timepieces. Also, the ELM Trust was established, for which Ewell Hartman served as chairman. He launched A WI's home study course in clock repair, designed the A WI certification ring, and accelerated AWI's visual and audio aids for horologists. He developed the "Key Test" pro­ gram, and created the popular A WI Battery Number System. Director of Operations at Schwarzchild Jewelers in Richmond, VA, Ewell Hartman has done a great deal over the years, in speaking engagements and as an author, to strengthen the watchmaker-jeweler relationship. He is the eleventh person to have received this honored award, and it is richly deserved. Mr. Hartman is the father of Beth, Sandra, and Judith. He resides in Richmond, VA. Ewell Hartman receives the FAWI Award. (At left: Linda Brooks.) D

August 1991/Horological Times 51 BOOKS FROM AWi

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS IN QUARTZ WATCH REPAIRING­ -Alice B. Carpenter and Buddy Carpenter. A basic understand­ ing of quartz technology. $12.95

GRUEN WATCHES: A SPECIAL COLLECTION--Robert D. Gruen. A collection of Gruen watches with photos and descrip­ fu~ ~~

BENCH PRACTICES FOR WATCH\CLOCKMAKERS--Henry B. Fried. Hairspring practices, replacing regulator pins, jeweling, and dial repairs. $16.95

CAVALCADE OF TIME--Henry B. Fried. Highlights of the Zale Private Collection of Timepieces. $16.95 FIRST PLACE award for the 1990-91 ELM Trust Recycled Watch Cell Contest was presented to the Watchmakers Association of THE BEST OF J.E. COLEMAN-CLOCKMAKER--Orville R. New Jersey. Delegate Joseph L. Cerullo (left) accepts the award Hagans. An aid to solving everyday problems in clock repairing. from Fred Burckhardt, contest chairman. $30.00

ESSENCE OF CLOCK REPAIR--Sean C. ("Pat") Monk. A prac­ ticing clockmaker reveals repairing secrets. $19.95

HOW TO REPAIR HERSCHEDE TUBULAR BELL CLOCKS-­ Steven G. Conover. A book for the serious clockmaker inter­ ested in high quality timepieces. $12.95

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE CLOCKMAKING PRO­ FESSION--AWI. Experts answer everyday questions about clockmaking. $14.95

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE WATCHMAKING PRO­ FESSION-AWi. Helpful information on repairing watches. $5.95

REPAIRING QUARTZ WATCHES--Henry B. Fried. Includes a basic course in electricity & electronic horology. $22.95 SECOND PLACE award in the battery contest went to the Horological Association of Virginia. Accepting the award for the STRIKING CLOCKS--Joseph G. Baier. Ph.D. A hands-on HA Vis Delegate C.E. Hardy (right) from Fred Burckhardt. survey for the clockmaker. $7.95

THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER-Marvin E. Whitney. A concise treatise on the fascinating nautical timepiece, for the collector as well as the horologist. $75.00

WATCH & CLOCK INFORMATION, PLEASE--W.H. Samelius. The writing of Samelius edited by 0 . R. Hagans. $30.00

THE WATCH ESCAPEMENT--Henry B. Fried. How to analyze, adjust, repair the lever and cylinder, and more. $14.95

THE WATCH REPAIRER'S MANUAL--Henry B. Fried. The newly expanded and updated fourth edition of this popular textbook on watch repair. $27.00

If you are interested In any of the above books, please send THIRD PLACE in the battery contest went to the North Carolina your list along with a check or money order made payable Watchmakers Association. Fred Burckhardt presents the award to AWi Press. (U.S. Funds only.) Include your name, ad­ to Eric Parris (right), Alternate Delegate from the NCWA. dress, zip code, and phone number and send to: AWi Central, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. ALL BOOKS SHIPPED POSTPAID. 0 52 Horological Times/August 1991 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAI(ING

Arnold Van Tiem

1991 REC Annual Meeting

irst of all, REC stands for Research and Educa­ If tion Council. This is the branch of AWi dedicated to the training and education of future horologists. Back row (left to right): Greg Zanoni, Dan Fenwick, Tony Voight, Frank Poye, Gustav Glecer, Arnold Van Tiem, Jerry Jerue, Charles McKinney, To be a member of REC you must be a horology Jim Lubic, Wes Van Every, Louis Zanoni. Front row: Wit Jarochowski, instructor from an AWi membership school. If you are a Hank Fralix, Woody Woodward. horology instructor and want to belong to the REC, please call AWi Central (513-661-3838) for information on how your school can become an AWi membership school. This year the REC instructors had an excellent meeting. Items covered were the REC business meeting, reviewing/revising the CMW exam, and a bench course. Nine instructors attended the meeting this year. In the Mure I would like more instructors to get involved with REC. I cannot stress enough the importance of REC--it is a vital part and a source of new membership for the American Watchmakers Institute. The nine instructors that attended this year's meeting were: Hank Fralix (Winter Park Adult Voe. Ctr., Winter Park, FL); GustavGlecer (Lindsey Hopkins Tech. Ed. Ctr., Miami, FL); Wit Jarochowski (Oklahoma State Univer­ Dan Fenwick of the Swiss Watch Technical Center gives a bench seminar sity, Okmulgee, OK); Jerry Jerue (State Technical Inst. on the ETA 251 and 255 to AWi's REC Instructors. and Reh. Ctr., Plainwell, Ml); Charles McKinney (Ohio Valley Watchmaking Inst., Cincinnati, OH); Frank Poye Directors meeting. In turn, REC would have more input in (Paris Jr. College, Paris, TX); Wes Van Every (Emily the decision-making process of AWi. This subject will be on Griffith Opportunity School, Denver, CO); Arnold Van a future AWi ballot to be voted on by all of the AWi Tiem, Career Prep Center, Sterling Hts., Ml); and Woody membership. I hope everyone feels the same way REC Woodward (St. Paul Tech. College, St. Paul, MN). members do. As educators of our trade, we feel we are On Tuesday, June 25th the REC held its annual entitled to a vote. board meeting with nomination of officers for the next term. On Wednesday, June 26th the REC members The following were appointed to new offices: reviewed and made suggestions for the revision of the Chairman: Wit Jarochowski CMWexam. Vice Chairman: Brian Murphy Thursday, June 27th, was when we had our semi­ Secretary: Jerry Jerue nar. Daniel Fenwick, Production Supervisor from the Swiss Director: Gustav G/ecer Watch Technical Center, put on an excellent bench course. Director: Jim Burdette His knowledge and expertise were evident by his lectures (Special thanks to Frank Paye for recording the minutes of and demonstrations. Dan covered the ETA 251 and the this year's business meeting.) ETA 255. Everyone had movements that SWTC supplied After the election of officers, one of the main topics to work on. On behalf of the REC, I would like to thank both discussed was granting an REC representative selected by the Swiss Watch Technical Center and Dan Fenwick for an the REC Board the right to a vote at the AWi Board of excellent presentation.

August 1991/Horological Times 53 To enhance Dan's presentation and bench course, two MICHIGAN companies brought some of their latest equipment which Plainwell Jerry Jerue was used by Dan. Tony Voight of Witschi brought test State Technical Inst. & Reh. Ctr. equipment for both mechanical and quartz watches. Louis Alber Drive and Greg Zanoni from Zantech brought their Micro Video Plainwell, Ml 49080 Teaching System. I would like to thank these people for (616) 664-4461, ext. 251 their time and the use of their equipment, which greatly benefitted those present. Sterling Heights Ar.nold Van Tiem One last item! At the REC business meeting, the Career Prep Center members that were present updated the REC list of AWi 12200 Fifteen Mile Road membership schools. There are now 25 schools. Please Sterling Heights, Ml 48312 check to make sure your school information is correct. (313) 825-2818 MINNESOTA SCHOOLS OF HOROLOGY ROSTER St. Paul Woody Woodward ALABAMA St. Paul Technical College Mobile 235 Marshall Avenue Mr. Holloway St. Paul, MN 55102 Southwest State College (612) 221-1300 925 Dauphin Island Pkwy. Mobile, AL 36605 MISSISSIPPI (205) 479-7476 Ellisville Elbert Lewis CALIFORNIA Jones County Jr. College San Francisco Ellisville, MS 39437 John O'Connell Comm. College Ctr. (601) 477-9311 108 Bartlett Street San Francisco, CA 9411 O MONTANA (415) 550-4380 Great Falls James R. Burdette COLORADO Great Falls Voe. Tech. Ctr. Denver 2100 16th Avenue, South Wes Van Every Great Falls, MT 59405 Emily Griffith Opportunity School (406) 719-2100 1250 Welton Street Denver, CO 80204 NEW YORK· (303) 572-8218 Brooklyn Joe Bernstein and Mr. Silva FLORIDA George Westinghouse Voe. Tech. H.S. Miami 105 Johnson Street Gustav Glecer Brooklyn, NY 11201 Lindsey Hopkins Tech. Ed. Ctr. (718) 625-6130 750 N.W. 20th Street Miami, FL33127 Woodside (305) 324-6070 (5:30 PM to 11 :00 PM) Warren Rupert and Brian Murphy Joseph Bulova School of Watchmaking Winter Park 40-24 62nd Street Hank Fralix Woodside, NY 11377 Winter Park Adult Voe. Ctr. (718) 424-2929 2250 Lee Road, Suite 100 Winter Park, FL 32789 OHIO (407) 647-6366, ext. 253 Cincinnati Chuck McKinney ILLINOIS Ohio Valley Watchmaking Institute Champaign 10600 Springfield Pike Bill Clary Cincinnati, OH 45215 Parkland College (513) 771-4800 2400 W. Bradley Avenue Champaign, IL 61820 OKLAHOMA (217) 351-2288 Okmulgee Wit Jarochowski Quincy Oklahoma State University--Okmulgee Gem City College School of Horology 1801 E. 4th Street 7th & State Streets, P.O. Box 179 Okmulgee, OK 74447-3901 Quincy, IL 62306 (918) 756-6211, ext. 266 (217) 222-0391

54 Horological Times/August 1991 PENNSYLVANIA Johnstown NANCY REAGAN, NORMAN SCHWARZKOPF, Harry Hinzy AND DR. P. ROY VAGELOS Hiram C. Andrews 727 Goucher Street HONORED AT CARTIER RECEPTION Johnstown, PA 15915 (814) 255-5881 SimonJ. Critchell, President & CEO, Cartier, and Ralph Destina, Chairman, Cartier, welcomed Nancy Reagan, Lancaster Gen. H. Norman Schwarzkopf, and Dr. P. Roy Vagelos, Bob Sener recipients of the coveted Hugh O'Brian Youth Founda­ Bowman Technical School tion's Albert Schweitzer Leadership Award, at a pri­ 220 W. King Street vate champagne reception at Cartier's Fifth Avenue Lancaster, PA 17603 Boutique. The honorees were presented with a Cartier (717) 397-7484 timepiece specially designed for each recipient. The Cartier event preceded the black tie din­ TEXAS ner-dance at the Waldorf Astoria. Accompanying the Kilgore 300 Toby Witherspoon more than distinguished guests at the Cartier recep­ Kilgore College tion were dinner chairmen for the event, John F. McGil­ 1100 Broadway Blvd. licudy, Chairman & CEO, Manufacturet:s Hanover Corp., Kilgore, TX 75662 and Ralph S. Larsen, Chairman & CEO, Johnson & (214) 984-8531, ext. 220 Johnson. The Albert Schweitzer Leadership Award is Houston the highest honor bestowed by the Hugh O'Brian Youth Harold Neill Foundation to individuals who have made significant Houston Technical College contributions to education and motivation of youth 1301 Waugh Drive through their service to mankind. - Houston, TX 77019 (713) 529-8143

Paris Robert Howell and Frank Poye Paris Jr. College 2400 Clarksville Street Paris, TX 75460 (903) 784-9361

WASHINGTON Seattle Tony Knorr North Seattle Community College 9600 College Way North Seattle, WA 98103 Pictured (left to right): Ralph Destino, Chairman of Cartier; Hugh (206) 527-360Q O'Brian; Nancy Reagan; Simon Critchell, President and CEO, Cartier; General Norman Schwarzkopf; and Dr. P. Roy Vagelos, Chairman, President and CEO, Merck & Co., at a reception hosted by Cartier. Mrs. Tacoma Reagan, Gen. Schwarzkopf, and Dr. Vagelos received the Hugh George Mitchell O'Brian Youth Foundation's Albert Schweitzer Leadership Award. Bates Vocational Tech. 1101 South Yakima Tacoma, WA 98405 (206) 596-1500 Support CANADA Polyvante Ste-Ursula The AWi-ELM TRUST 1725 Boul. du Carmel Trois-Rivieres, Quebec SCHOLARSHIP PRQGRAM Canada G8Z 3R8 By Sending Your (819) 379-3644 OLD WATCH BATTERIES to the SWITZERLAND Watchmakers of Switzerland Tech. & Ed. Program AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS (WOSTEP) INSTITUTE Case Postale 118 3700 Harrison Avenue 2006 Neuchatel, Switzerland Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 038/304 830

August 1991/Horological Times 55 AWi Horological Tour of Europe 1991

by Harry Blair (with help from Henry Fried)

Tour group in front of the Parrenin Watcii Factory.

~() n a scale of zero to ten, this tour rates at least a nine a city famed for its toys. We visited Nuremberg's plus! Henry Fried has done it again--a horological tour astronomical clock.Then we visited Herr Gerhardt's clock shop de force through Europe: excellent hotels, good food, and lots and got a personal tour of his eclectic horological collection, of horological activity, as well as old-fashioned sightseeing. topped off with a champagne toast that he arranged! Henry gave us his inimitable vignettes on what we Our next stop was in picturesque old Rothenberg with were seeing as we moved along in our bus. These were the its winding streets, and then we were on to Heidelberg and a longest seminars in the world (132 miles!). Our trip started off castle visit, including wine tasting. We visited Strasbourg, a in East and West Berlin with traditional sights such as the Wall, 16th century city with gingerbread houses, narrow streets, and including the fabulous Pergamon Museum. canals. We visited Notre Dame cathedral with its famous Leipzig was next, and then Dresden, using a Rhine astronomical clock and its many automated figures that come cruise ship as our hotel on the famed Elbe River. We visited the alive at noon (the world's largest indoor clock). fabulous Zwinger Palace and Museum, with its choice horologi­ On our way toward Besancon, we toured the L'Epee cal items--from Morbiers of all types to Breguets. Carriage Clock Factory in Belport, where a wide range of Then we were on to horologically famed Glashutte carriage clocks are now made, including some tour'billon equippe,d. near Dresden where we visited the famous A. Lange Watch and This is a complete, self-contained small clock manufacturing Clock Factory and its spectacular museum. Included in this mu­ facility. Some in the tour group purchased several clocks here. seum were two of Mudge's original lever escapement watches, We then headed into Besancon, which is located in the a wide range of escapement models, including the tourbillon, A. Jura mountains near the Swiss border. Besancon is the center of Lange complicated watches, ship's chronometers, and Breguet the French watchmaking industry. We were hosted for two days watches. by Jean Louis Caron, a high level government official repre­ In Prague we saw the famed 15th century astronomical senting the French watch industry, who hosted us to lunch and town hall clock with the apostles rotating on the hour, and we French T-shirt gifts. We enjoyed a visit to the French horologi­ visited the National Technical Museum. Here we enjoyed the cal research center at Besancon with its sophisticated labs and bustling free market street traders from the USSR dealing in test apparatus, including computer-aided work stations, elec­ Eastern goods, such as Russian watches and lacquer boxes. Plus tron microscopes, and other high-tech test equipment. We then we saw an excellent performance of the opera Rigoletto. visited a horological museum and tool factory in Maiche. Next we were on to Nuremberg, the walled city, home That night we stayed in Villers Le Loe at a quaint inn of Peter Heinlein, once thought the inventor of the watch, and owned by the famed French horological author and authority on

Visit of the French Watch and Clock Industry Technical Center in Cetehor. AtCetehor(l tor): Jacques Froelicher, H.B. Fried, Henry Belmont, Jean L. Caron.

56 Horological Times/August 1991 cylinder watches, Yves Droz. The inn is beautifully decorated making of the $180,000 "Grande Complication" wristwatch. with horological art. While in Villers Le Loe we toured the Next we visited the vast annual Basel horological fair, Parrenin Watch Factory. Here we saw both mechanical and which covered four buildings. We were given a briefing by Dr. quartz watches being made, and were each given a superb Roland Shield on the fair highlights, and were VIP guests at an sample gold-filled skeleton watch and chain made by the official luncheon. We had two days to tour these four buildings. factory. We saw items such as 8-day tourbillons, jumping hour watches, We then headed to Switzerland to visit the fabulous pocket watches with music boxes, mechanical chronographs international horological museum at La Chaux-du-Fonds. We including self-wind, perpetual calendar, dual time zone, and toured old Lausanne and a 13th century Chillon castle at Mon­ high-frequency beat. While in Basel we made a side trip to a treux, then went on to beautiful lakeside Lucerne. local school-yard to see the unusual columnar sundial men­ At Schaffhausen, we went to see the famous falls, the tioned in Giles' and Priestly's books. beginning of the Rhine River, and tour the fabulous Interna­ We met George Daniels, our modern-day Breguet, at tional Watch Company (IWC) Factory, where we saw the the Basel Fair. He was at the one-of-a-kind, handcrafted artisan

Visit of the L'Epee Clock Factory (Belport) where many carriage clocks are made. Herr Gerhardt in his clock shop with Henry Fried (Nuremberg).

L'Epee Carriage Clock Factory (Belport).

Horological museum and tool factory in Maiche, near Villers Le Loe, France. More of Herr Gerhardt's collection (Nuremberg).

August 1991/Horological Times 57 section of clocks and watches. George showed us his latest wristwatch creation using his unique tourbillon escapement which has operated for over three months with zero error. We saw the Patek Philippe "Caliber 89" $3 million pocket watch, and the "Grande Complication" wristwatch by IWC.A special thank-you to Mr. Jack Freedman at Superior Watch Service (authorized service agency for /WC) for arranging our tour at /WC. The tour attendees were: Henry B. Fried, NY; Peg and Harry Blair, NJ; William Bruce, KS; John and Nina Camma­ rata, NJ; Mike Danner, OH; Dorothy and Robert Davidson, CA; Marybess Grisham, TX; John Grass, CA; Villy Jensen, CA; Jim and Fanny Kechajias, ID; George and Frances Kiser, TX; Jim Robinson, NE; Elmer and Masako Tazuma, WA; Joyce Wahler, The tour group at the Parrenin Watch Factory. CA; and Jim Gibson, Spain. 0

At the International Watch Company (!WC). In the Parrenin Watch Factory (Villers Le Loe). r------, I Has Your Address Changed?:

Please Notify I I American Watchmakers Institute I 3700 Harrison Avenue I Cincinnati, OH 45211 I I Name ______~ I I OLD ADDRESS I I Address ______I I ICity, State & Zip ______I

l NEW ADDRESS :

I Address : ICity, State & Zip I I I I I Reception given at the Parrenin Watch Factory (Villers Le Loe). L------'------.J 58 Horological Times/August 1991 New Products/News in the Trade

A MICROVIDEO Mr. Presti stated, ''The new was made up of a collection of slide­ 14,000 women's and accessories mar­ TEACHING SYSTEM catalog introduces many new products lectures representing a wide range of ket companies are presented with the FROM ZANTECH, INC. to our line. It contains more models current approaches and perspectives Sears "Category Marketing" award for Zantech, Inc. of Trenton, NJ has intro­ than ever before to select from, and on gemological research. the entire women's and accessories duced a revolutionary new video imag­ offers a wide range of features and GIA Research Scientist market. ing system for demonstrating jewelry prices to suit every budget Included Ilene Reinitz gave an informative slide In making the award pres­ and watch repair. are new timing and testing machines for lecture titled "Relation of Spectroscopy entations, Leslie Mann stated: ''We at The smallest prong of a ring watchmakers, new economically to Gem Material Identification." Robert Sears use about 10,000 manufacturers or the largest dial of a pocket watch can priced watch cleaners, a new electronic Kane, manager of the GIA Gem Trade to meet our product needs. Being se­ be clearly displayed on a TV screen for dry-water leak tester, a precision auto­ Laboratory's West Coast Identification lected for an award given to fewer than customers and students to see. The matic watch winder, an electric hot air Lab, had been invited to speak at the one percent of our manufacturers is unique characteristics include: dryer, new digital ultrasonic cleaners, a meeting by the group of GAC-MAC­ most significant and a tribute to a com­ 1) A long working distance new multi-purpose engraving machine, SEG scientists. He gave a slide-illus­ pany's employees, who put quality, de­ of 6 to 10 inches. and a new electronic polisher and dust trated presentation on the characteriza­ pendability, and pride into their daily 2) Distortion-free micro­ collector." tion and identification of faceted blue work." scopic views of highly reflective metal­ When questioned about the diffusion-treated sapphires. Seiko was presented with a lic surfaces such as jewelry and introduction of many new products in a On June 2nd, Robert Kam­ stunning Baccarat crystal "Category watches. weakened economy, Mr. Presti re­ merling, GIA Director of Technical Marketing" award as a special thank­ 3) A lighting system that sponded, "Our new product line reflects Developmen~ attended GemFest Eu­ you to further show its dedication to provides uniform lighting and a wide the confidence in the present and future ropa in Vicenza, Italy. The topic of his both the work and quality of Seiko's depth of focus. vitality of the jewelry industry in the presentation was an update on gem­ marketing efforts. Ms. Mann perfectly Zantech's unique Micro­ United States. We have already re­ stone synthesis and treatments. described it in this way: "It puts you over Video Teaching System is ideal for ceived a very positive response and the edge and only the best come demonstrating fine watch and jewelry interest in many of the new products." through!" repair techniques in a classroom or For more information, con­ SEARS PRESENTS SEIKO Also received was a special trade show. As the instructor performs tact Joseph Presti, President, Vlbro­ WITH TWO AWARDS "Partners in Progress" award plaque for his repair techniques under the micro­ graf USA Corp., 504 Cherry Ln., Flo­ The employees and management of contributions to Sears' "quality tri· scope system, the students or custom­ ral Park, NY 11001-1696; (516) 437· Seiko Time were honored for their out­ angle," which combines extrinsic qual­ ers can view the action on television 8700; fax (516) 437-8708. standing achievement in the production ity and product innovation, as well as monitors positioned around the room. of timepieces for Sears, the nation's other criteria such as service of supply, The incredible magnification clearly largest retailer. consistency, and marketing. shows the intricate work that the in­ Representatives of Sears Suppliers are nominated by structor is performing. Merchandise Group named Seiko as Sears buyers. The nominations are For a free video tape dem­ the recipient of two of its annual top­ reviewed, and winners chosen by the onstration, call Zantech, Inc. at (800) notch awards, "Partners in Progress" retailer's key managers and senior offi­ 441-7569. and "Category Marketing.• Seiko was cers. Zantech named one of only 80 "Partners in Prog­ ress" award winners. Only 5 out of

Vibrograf USA Corp.

GIA STAFF SPEAK IN CANADA AND fTALY ON GEM l.D. Representatives from the Gemological -Institute of America (GIA) made pres­ entations at the 1991 Toronto annual Zantech joint meeting of the Geological Asso­ ciation of Canada, the Mineralogical VIBROGRAF'S EXPANDED NEW Society of Canada, and the Society of 1991 LINE CATALOG Economic Geologists. Sears and Seiko management recently joined together to acknowledge Seiko's vnaJ role in the production of both quality and lasting goods in 1990. The proud Seiko recipients Mr. Joseph Presti, President of Vibro­ The Gems and Gem Depos­ are ~eft to right): Roland Benavides, VP/Sales, Seiko Time; Hal Wilensky, Executive VP, graf USA Corp., announced the release its session was held May 27-29 at the Seiko Time; and Shigeho Kurashioa, President, Seiko Corp. of Am erica With them from of the new 1991 Vibrograf line catalog. Metro Toronto Convention Center, and Sears is Leslie Malin, Bernie Hahn, and Fred Ogier.

August 1991/Horological Times 59 Classified Ads

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Ads are payable in advance $.60 per word, $.70 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $25.00 per column inch, 2-1/4M wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of serv­ ices will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance (e.g. June issue closes for copy on May 1st).

HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838 Fax (513) 661-3131

QUALITY WATCH CRYSTAL FIT11NG. Watch Repair & Restoration Fast service. Expert crystal fitting. New and Buying & Selling Quality & Vintage Watches old styles. KIRK CRYSTAL CO., 4th & Pike R. MURPHY 717-285-7688 Bldg., Suite 823, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 622- 590 Centerville Rd. Rorex • 7639. Old Marine Chronometers and Carriage • Calendar #130 Palek Philippe • • Moonphase Lancaster, PA 17601 Omega • Clocks serviced and repaired. Restoration • Repeaters Hamillon • • Chronographs Swiss Trained Walchmakers Le Coullre • work undertaken. Call or write for shipping All Work Guaranteed ·etc ... • instructions. Wanted: Old marine chronome­ DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, ters working or not. P. Howard, CMBm, 4220 FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. Vll'ginia Beach Blvd., Vll'ginia Beach, VA 37 Years Experience in restoring and making Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit 23452; (804) 481-7633. parts for French and English Carriage Clocks the quartz movement. Send your works to: and Platform Escapements, Balance Staffs, KIRK DIAL OF SEATl'LE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Cylinders, Repivoting, Hairsprings, Pinions, Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. SHIP'S CHRONOMETERS OVER· etc. JOHN BARRS, 8442 N.E. 140th St., HAULED. Also HAMILTON 21 PARTS for Bothell, WA 98011; (206) 820-8288. sale: Staffs or escape pinions $60; escape CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, wheels $110; detent springs $175; lockingjew­ rebushing. REPAIRING: timers, aircraft els $40; keys, box hardware, etc. I buy chro­ WATCH RESTORATION and repair work. clocks, pocket watches. ROY H. NIEGEL, nometers and partial movements. 1 year Custom staffs, pivoting, and regilding. Ron CMC, CMW, 101 E. Saint Joe Drive, Spirit guarantee on repairs. DEWEY CLARK, DeCorte, Box 6126, Toledo, OH 43614; (419) Lake, Idaho 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623- (301) 592-3617. 381-1081. 4330.

WATCH REPAIR: Quality work, fast serv­ CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, ice, mechanical, Accutron, quartz. Serv· material and tools. Custom made to order or Ing our customers for the past SO years. repair of gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog D & HREPAIR, Bo:s: 100, BigStoneCity, SD $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, Atwa­ li72UI; (606) 862-8403. ter, OH 44201; (216) 947-2268. j . 2 · ft,. ,•"', - WE'VE MOVED!! 4 . LARGER SHOP, MORE TECHNICIANS TO SERVE YOU BETTER

BEFORE AFTER ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT SERVICE I WE ARE FACTORY AUTHORIZED SERVICE FOR: Quartz Conversions 'I I * VIBROGRAF & PORTESCAP Diamond Dial Conversions I Emblem & Nome Personalization I * TICK-0-PRINT & L&R I I WE SERVICE ALL MAKES OF ULTRASONICS, ALL MAKES OF Write for Brochures : WATCH RATE RECORDERS, AND RELATED EQUIPMENT. INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC .. : 25 YEARS EXPERIENCE. 51 W. SUGARTREE : JACK PHILLIPS -- ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE P.O. BOX 970 1 757 LINCOLN AVENUE, #26 SAN RAFAEL, CA 94901 WILMINGTON, OH 45177 : FOR INFORMATION, CALL (415) 453-9261 L-----~---~------•------~ 60 Horological Times/August 1991 QUARTZ CONVERSIONS l'Rill~IU\ i1\ii-illli ...,ll\ILL . llld IL\llJl . i!Hll) 111 l{1Jll'\ _ l'l.l.\.!l! l'.tid•, l'l1i11pp1 ·. WATCH RUSTED? DISCONTINUED? \ ,ILllL"1UJI ·( !lll\l.1111111 \1111qtw pod... v1 11,llLllV' :I 'PLll.1111 . NO PARTS? SENTIMENTAL? GOLD CASE? l.,11 ''' 11 :I llll d 111.1,ll"I II . \! l 11111,1 k\-1 . l~l!I<.. \ l \'11 ii ll·d ( thl •!Ill par I 111 . 11.iil .IL! 111, I \fll d IL' Ill \VI\ Ill" .11h! p1(Jll \\t1111.1I SEND IT TO AL ZAMORA I .'..!11 ,ll ,l [l'L q t1.il11~ \I I \\ 111 k 1111~ II d WATGt & O.CXXOOM:S~ FOR A NEW SWISS QUALITY MOVEMENT l'R It ISIO\ 11\11 11 (fl Ci.ASS OOM:S AND FIRST QUALITY JOB CONVERSION. 11~.:;- L 1LllL'ISl1L'l'[ "';111(:11'0, _ ( \l)...j.()-() 705 Rimpau Avenue #101 95% SIZES POSSIBLE, POCKETS ALSO. Corona, CA 91719 SAFE REGISTERED MAIL. FAX: (714) 540·3512 ALFONSO ZAMORA CUTTERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pin­ "DISTRIBUTORS WNmQ" 280 PRESIDIO PLACE ions. Module 0.2 to 1.0. Constant profile pro­ BUFFALO, NY 14221 024 HOUR ORDER UNES 800-292-5522 ducing traditional square bottomed teeth, 104 = (716) 633-6138 sizes. Escape cutters: recoil (set ofseven sizes), USED WATCHMAKERS TOOLS, EQUIP­ dead beat (set of four sizes). Ratchets 60° and MENT, MATERIAL, SUPPLIES, WATCHES, 70°. All cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 High MOVEMENTS, AND RELATED ITEMS. Speed Steel and heat treated under vacuum. Write or call for our latest list. Tom Mister, POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR -- Bezels, Also cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. Dashto Jewelers, 983 Providence Square Shop­ hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, Send for Information Sheet, prices, and order ping Center, Virginia Beach, VA 23464; (804) Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., forms to: P.P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995 Horological Cutter Makers, The Old Bake­ 495-2471. house, Upper Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, England. CUSTOM BALANCE STAFFS cut and fitted. Platforms repaired. James Bourne, CMW,P.O. MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed lowest prices--as low as $2.30. 2-yr. guarantee. Box 215, Ladysmith, WI 54848. Phone (715) CLOCK WHEELAND 532-3166. Large selection of hands and numerals. Free PINION CUITING delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. HALL Fast service -- Write for free Brochure CLOCK SHOP, 1512 Central Ave., Charlotte, NC28205. TIMING MACHINES -- NEW AND REFUR­ and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes St., BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. Irving, TX 75060. (214) 986-7698. Call (814) 692-2285 All or parts of 40-year accumulation of genuine materials for all types of American and Swiss AIRCRAFT CLOCK SPECIALIST. Buy, Sell, watches bought in individual assortments. Repair. R.T. King, CMW, 1515 E. Sales Yard Send want list of assortments or for informa­ Road, Emmett, Idaho 83617. tion to: Cecil Cuddy, 1714 Lane, Topeka, KS 66604.

DON'T GIVE UP HOPE, GIVE US A TRY! Electronic Timing Machines Dependable repair of all types of high-grade ATl'ENTION NEW watches--Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, etc. WA'ICH MATERIAL WHOLESALERS We repair all types of Accutrons by Bulova, The firm of Mayer Brothers in Seattle, Wash­ Omega, Movado, Longines, etc. and Hamilton ington, the largest material wholesaler in the electric calibres 500-505. Rolex double springs northwest recently donated a nearly complete and most other watch parts made. Watch crys­ watch part system to the North Seattle Com­ tals custom made. Ifyou need a watch repaired­ munity College Foundation. We are selling the -high-grade, antique, complicated, etc.--and following items in order to raise funds to en­ want fast, dependable service with high quality hance the Watch and Clock Technology Pro­ gram: It includes the complete Bestfit System; GUARANTEED, give us a try; so don't worry, * llllETRAX 600 Wrfal & Pocket Welch be happy! Over 30 years experience in all Bulova, Omega, Longines, Rolex, Seiko, Citi" zen, etc. watch parts; American watch parts; Tlm~r: Measures & displays watch trains Inv~ phases of watch repair and watch parts manu­ brations per hour, calculates gain or loss In facturing. J. Park, CMW. Time Zone, 3578-F crystals for all watches, GS Stella; Newall Sec/day. over 40 preprogrammed trains: 7200- Memorial Drive, Decatur, GA30032; (404) 289- crowns; Borel crowns; hands; spring· bars; 36000 /hr. Highly stable TCXO timebase. 4464; Mon.-Sat.10 am- 9 pm. mainsprings; clock parts; bracelet parts; etc. Complete wtwatch holder & pickups ...... $595 Complete with all catalogs, reference books, Bestfit card and microfiche. Everyt~ up-to­ • TIMETRAX 400 Clock Timer: Measures & date, ready to incorporate into existing system displays clock trains In vibrations per hour, or starting a new business. For more informa­ Extended timing range for 400 day & Atmos clocks, Balance mode aids in setting movement tion, call the instructor, Tony Knorr at (206) in beat Complete w/pickup ...... $395 MURPHY'S 527-3775. CRYSTAL SERVICE *TICK TECH 195 Clock llmer: Measures Timing interval between ticks In milliseconds FAST -- QUALITY WORK HERMLE MOVEMENTS: Lowest prices in and Beats/Minute. Portable, battery powered, * 24-hour turnaround on most jobs U.S. Factory fresh, 2-year warranty. Butter­ complete w/plckup ...... $225 * Complete crystal fitting service worth Clock Repair, 1715 Pearlview, Mus­ * Specializing in custom cut flat catine, IA 52761; 1-800-258-5418. All units made in USA, 1 yr. warranty, complete .with Instructions & reference tables. Send 3 mineral glass crystals stamps for info & our new 1990 Catalog of CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE LIST Horological Literature. PHONE (209) 576-8865 BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC, Adam• Brown Co., Box 357, 2324 WESTMINSTER DR. Cranbury, NJ 08512 (60i)655-8269 MODESTO, CA 95355 H.C. 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301.

August 1991/Horological Times 61 Classified Ads

CLOCK & WATCH SHOP in Washington, CLOCK AND WATCH REPAIRMAN FOR D.C. areafor8years. Gross on sales and repairs FULL-TIME POSITION. All types of work in a $250K. $75,000 plus inventory. Must sell. (703) beautiful clock shop in Daytona Beach, FL. 280-0407. Excellent climate, pleasant surroundings and opportunity for ownership of this highly suc­ cessful sales and service business. Write or CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD WANTED: Disabled war veteran watchmaker phone to: Evelyn Barth ofH & E Clocks, 2355 S. CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL to take over completely equipped shop, free of Ridgewood Ave., S. Daytona, FL 32019; (904) Save time, money, and work re-covering bel­ charge. Call (305) 374-2855. 761-0077. lows. Easier than replacing. For information, send business-size SASE to: JANDi GOGGIN Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 WATCH REPAIR PERSON--Immediate posi­ tion available. Experienced with mechanical watches, antique watches, and Bulova Accu­ trons. Up to $1000/week. (313) 559-5329. MINERAL CRYSTAL: q.140-q.340, U$0.85 ea., mllllinum 100 pcs. assorted. Styleart, Cobra straps, complete movements, Canada Star watches (Toronto assembled). Toronto Jewell­ WATCH REPAIR PERSON needed on a part­ ers Supply, 49 Camden St., Toronto M5V 1V2; time basis. Must be experienced in all phases of (416) 369-9417; Fax (416) 369-1766. repair including pocket watches. Prefer some­ one locally, in the Marietta, Kennesaw, Wood­ stock area. Send resume and/or qualifications Hamilton 21 Ship's Chronometer, cariying to Quality Watch Repair, Box 670932, Marietta case, overhaul manual, and histoiy, $925.00. GA 30066 or call (404) 423-9558. Rolex Perpetual. 3 lathes, $50.00 to $175.00. TEXAS l'.\STITLTE OF Large quantity of American pocket watches, JEWELRY TECH'iOLO(;Y most running. Tools of all kinds. Elgin and A D1\'isio11 nl Pans .Ju111nr t 'olh·~l' Bulova parts cabinets. American mainspring Seeking a watchmaker or jeweler to join me as cabinet. Would like to sell all at a bargain or will a partner or associate in my new store. Excel­ TEXAS U.S. break up. Send large SASE for list. H.N. Web­ lent location in beautiful Hilton Head Island, I ·800·44 I· 1398 I ·800-232·5804 ster, 3700 Hall Ave., Sebring, FL 33872; (813) South Carolina, as soon as possible. Last year 385-8924. 1.3 mil. tourists. Contact Peter-Dieter Baier, Swiss Pr. & Intl. Timepieces Ltd., Box 5552, Hilton Head, SC 29938. Phone & Fax (803) 842- CLOCKNOTES: A new bi-monthly booklet 9500, Home (803) 686-4086. alternating with the bi-monthly Clock !JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL Tips newsletter. It's a must for clock re­ 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 11377 storers. One year subscription is $35.00. Phone (718) 424-2929 Published by John Nagle, 438 Penn Ave., West Reading, PA 19611. Quality Instruction Since 1945 6 Carlyle & Co. WATCHMAKING COBRA STRAPS: Exclusive in USA, best qual­ Service, Cut & Polished (17 months) ity, hi-fashion, made in France, look for retail WATCH REPAIR shops. Toronto Jewellers Supply, 49 Camden To Perfection (9 and 13 months) St., Toronto M5V 1V2; (416) 369-9417; Fax JEWELRY REPAIR (416) 369-1766. WATCHMAKERS -- Carlyle & Co. BASIC ELECTRONICS Jewelers is looking for topnotch watch­ Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation QUALITY TRADITIONAL makers to join our Rolex repair center NATTS approved, BEOG available CLOCKMAKING TOOLS & SUPPLIES in Greensboro, NC. We are a large Depthing Tools -- Mainspring Winders Lathe File Rests -- Finger Plate Clamps multi-state retailer with excellent pay Milling Spindles and benefits which include medical From J.M. Wild, England and dental plan, paid vacation, paid . Michael M. Ambrosino, agent 33-67 165th Street Flushing, NY 11358 personal leave, seven paid holidays Catalogues $5.00 per year, and Christmas bonus. Must be completely proficient in all phases ofRolex watch repair, including care CHIME CLOCK REPAIR by Steven G. and use of authorized Rolex equip­ Conover. New! Detailed drawings and repair instructions for New Haven, Junghans, Kien­ ment. Some travel required to partici­ inger, Hermle, Seth Thomas, and many more. pate in instore service programs. We Also contains chime melodies, solutions to com­ will assist you in relocation. Please mon problems, and the author's method for WELL-ESTABLISHED CLOCK SHOP WITH assembling and adjusting chime movements. HIGH REPAIR VOLUME. Excellent reputa­ send resume in strictest confidence Available only from the publisher, Clock­ tion. Located in fast growing San Bernardino to: NWCSC Manager, P .0. Box 21768, makers Newsletter, 203 John Glenn Ave., County, California. Price $50,000. Contact Bro­ Greensboro, NC 27420. Reading, PA 19607. Hardcover, 210 pages, ker - Randy; (714) 881-1888. $28.50 postpaid. PA residents add 6% sales tax.

62 Horological Times/August 1991 ATTENTION WATCHMAKERS! Small ad, WANTED: Unusual American pocket higher prices! We need your vintage watches/movements. I buy entire collections, watches for our European customers. Top estates, watchmakers' inventories. Over 30 prices paid for Patek, Vacheron, Rolex, years experience of honest and reliable confi­ Cartier, Movado, chronographs, and oth­ dential transactions. JON HANSON, Box ers. Buying all brands, new old stock. 5499, Beverly Hills, CA 90210; (213) 826-7778. Seeking to buy complete set of watchmakers Buying mint boxed comic characters. tools, equipment, parts, etc. Please contact Buying preowned modern Rolex and Car­ Peter-D. Baier, CMW. Phone & Fax (803) 842- tier. Buying ladies enamels. National 9500. Watch Exchange, 107 S. 8th St., Philadel­ phia, PA 19106. 1-800-43-ROLEX. 1-800- 562-6788. Watches Wanted HAMILTON ELECTRIC REPAIRMAN seeks parts! Movements, balance completes, contact wires, etc. desperately needed. Want We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any anything related to Hamilton Electrics. Rene amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, Rondeau, 120 Harbor Drive, Corte Madera, CA silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment 94925; (415) 924-9132. return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab­ lished 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073. WANTED • Diamonds - all sizes, qualities; We desperately need for our retail even chipped, old mine, single cut We buy watchmakers tools, equipment, mate­ • Scrap watch bands - paying $12·$27 lb. rial, and related items as well as jewelers and customers fine watches by: • Dead watch batteries (unsorted accepted) clockmakers tools and watch collections, etc. Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet, • Gold filled & gold scrap - filings, Specialize in estate purchases. Call or write & 10, 14, 18K, buffing waste, etc. Tom Mister, Dashto Jewelers, 983 Providence Vacheron Constantin, Movado, Gubelin, etc. • Sterling & plated flatware • China, old watches - Rolex, etc. Square Shopping Center, Virginia Beach, VA We are paying top prices for any high 23464; (804) 495-2471. CALL quality, unusual or complicated TOLL FREE 1-800-426-2344 Wrist or Pocket Watches When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch SPECIAL TY METALS Unusual Pocket Watches & Wristwatches Wanted. REFINING COMPANY Especially Patek Philippe, Howard, Illinois, Waltham, Call us Toll Free 1-800-842-862 5 10 Bay Street Chronometers, Strikers, Moonphase, Tourbillons, Vir­ In Texas 1-214-902-0664 Westport, CT 06880 gules, Karrusel, Musicals, Historical, and Solid Golds. Early American watches a specialty. Need not run. Call Always prompt immediate payment! Members TOLL FREE 1-800-23J-BUNN or 913-383-2880, Maundy Wingate' s Quality Watches Jewelers Board of Trade International, P.O. Box 13028H, Overland Park, Kansas Ron Fried Our 70th Consecutive Ad 66212. P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 President

· ~ Your AWi membership card signifies that you are )'/'- ~ -~;.- AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS t ·":: ·r INSTITUTE entitled to the many services offered by your as­ •'-~-:. ~';.~:-- 1991 sociation. However, we must have the correct in­ formation from your card to be able to serve you JOHN A. DOE 000 SMITH ST. most efficiently. NOWHERE, OH 12345

This illustration points out the important, coded information on the right side of your membership

card. Always use your AWi membership number Membership Number when corresponding or ordering from AWi. Certification Type of Number Cen1ficat1on

August 1991/Horological Times 63 Dates to Remember Ad Index

AUGUST1991 OCTOBER 1991 American Perfit Crystal Corp ...... 4

16-18-lntroduction to Clock Repair Bench 4-6--New York State Watchmakers Annual Con­ Course (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; Atlanta, vention; Waterloo, NY. Blue Ridge Machinery & Tools ...... 8 GA.* Borel Co ...... 7 5-6--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); 16-18--Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course John A. Nagle, instructor; Richmond, VA.* (AWi); Roland Iverson, instructor; Baltimore, Cas-Ker Co...... inside back cover MD.* 6--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Kan­ Charles Cleves ...... 29 17-18-Repairofthe Atmos Clock Bench Course sas City, MO.* (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Kansas City, MO.* 18-20-lntroduction to Clock Repair Bench Davis Supply ...... 27 Course (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; Marquett, DRS, lnc ...... 5 17-18--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course Ml.* (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Boston, MA.* 20--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Re­ Esslinger & Co...... inside front cover pair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instruc­ 18-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Eveready Watch Batteries ...... 3 Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Salt tor; Boston, MA.* Lake Oty, UT.* 25-27--Florida State Watchmakers Association Finn Time Products ...... 37 18--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Annual Convention; Ramada Hotel; Fort Myers, Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; FL. Rochester, NY.• 27--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Gem City College ...... 13 18--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Re­ Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Min­ Germanow-Simon Corp ...... 31 ,33 pair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instruc­ neapolis, MN.* Guenther & Sons ...... 1o tor; Milwaukee, WI.*

23-25-Nebraska & South Dakota Jewelers Asso­ S. LaRose, Inc ...... 17 ciation 86th Annual Convention; Kearney NOVEMBER 1991 Ramada Inn; Kearney, NE. Livesay's, Inc...... 23 9-10--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course 24-25--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Charlotte, NC.* (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Scranton, PA.* Oceanside Time ...... 9 9-10--Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Houston, TX.* Paris Junior College ...... 25 SEPTEMBER 1991 10--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Precision Crystal Cutting Co ...... 35 Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; At­ HI-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench lanta, GA.* Course (AWi); Robert Bishop, instructor; Des Smith Supply House ...... 27 Moines, IA.* 10--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Okla­ Song's Trading & Supply ...... 25 14-15--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course homa City, OK.* (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Denver, CO.* 16-17-Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course Timesavers ...... 35 15--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench (AWi); James Williams, instructor; Albuquerque, Toledo Jewelers ...... 13 NM.* Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Pitts­ Twin City Supply Co ...... 21 burgh, PA.* 16-17-lntroduction to the Watchmakers Lathe Bench Course (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; 15--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Vibrograf USA Corp...... 19 Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Min­ Kansas City, MO.* neapolis, MN.* 30-Dec. 1-400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course Watch Band Co...... 27 21-22-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Savannah, GA.* (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Salt Lake City, Witschi Electronics ...... 15 UT.*

21-22-Horological Association of Indiana Fall Young-Neal Co., Inc ...... 33 Workshop and Annual Meeting; Anderson Holi­ *For more information on AWi Bench Courses day Inn; Anderson, IN. and Regional Seminars, contact AWi Central, P.O. Box 11011, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cin­ 22--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Re­ cinnati, OH 45211; (513) 661-3838; fax (513) pair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instruc­ 661-3131. tor; Portland, OR.*

28-29--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; San Diego, CA.*

64 Horological Times/August 1991 STAINLESS BRACELET GENERIC SPRING BARS SCREWS CITIZEN STEMS

Ultra-thin stainless steel 18 pieces (3 each of 6 double shoulder spring numbers) taps 10 and 12. bars made to fit Seiko, Generic Citizen stems in Citizen, Bulova and all bottles. Refills available. other watch cases and 55 piece assortment Assortment #18 bracelets. 200 pieces total contains 5 each of 11 sizes (20 pieces each of 10 sizes of screws for repairing $1195 1/4" thru 7 /8"). 1.3mm watch bracelets and clasps. thin. In plastic compart­ In plastic compartment ment box. box. Refills available. Assortment #PP200 Assortment #CK-55 $isoo $1995 AWi BENCH COURSES Fiscal 1991-1992

To register for these courses, please send along with your JANUARY 1992 request a registration fee of $25 per instruction day (for 17-19-Advanced Clock Repair--Alexandria, VA AWI members) to: A WI Central, P.O. Box 11011, Cincin­ 19--Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair- Atlanta, GA nati, OH 45211. PLEASE NOTE: Registrations are limited 19-UsefuJ Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair- and will be selected by the earliest postmarks. You may register Albuquerque, NM by Fax if you wish; ifso, please include your Visa or MasterCard 25-26--Cuckoo Clock Repair--Phoenix, AZ number, card expiration date, and signature. FAX: (513) 661- 25-26--400-Day Clock Repair--Austin, TX 3131; INFORMATION: (513) 661-3838. 26--Servicing ET A Quartz Chronographs--San Diego, CA Note: Courses marked with an asterisk (•) are full. FEBRUARY 1992 AUGUST1991 16--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair--Albuquerque, 16-18--Advanced Clock Repair--Baltimore, MD* NM 16-18--lntroduction to Clock Repair--Atlanta, GA 22-23-400-Day Clock Repair-Albuquerque, NM 17-18--Repairof the Atmos Clock--Kansas City, MO 22-23-Cuckoo Clock Repair--Orlando, FL 17-18--400-Day Clock Repair--Boston, MA,. 23--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair-- 18--Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair--Salt Lake Ellisville, MS City, UT 23--Servicing ET A Quartz Chronographs--Phoenix, AZ 18--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs-Rochester,NY 18--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair­ MARCH1992 Milwaukee, WI 29--Servicing ET A Quartz Chronographs--Bay Area, CA 24-25-400-Day Clock Repair- Scranton, PA""

SEPTEMBER 1991 14-15--400-Day Clock Repair--Denver, CO COURSES AND INSTRUCTORS 15--Servicing ET A Quartz Chronographs--Pittsburgh, PA Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair 15--Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair--Minneapolis, MN Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW 21-22--Repair of the Atmos Clock--Salt Lake City, UT Advanced Quartz Watch Repair 22--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair-­ Robert Bishop, CMEW Portland, OR 28-29--400-Day Clock Repair--San Diego, CA Retrofitting, Casing & Coil Repair James Broughton, CMEW Introduction to Clock Repair OCTOBER 1991 James Lubic 5-6--400-Day Clock Repair--Richmond, VA 6--Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair--Kansas City, Advanced Clock Repair MO Roland Iverson, CMC 18-20--Introduction to Clock Repair--Marquett, MI Repair of the Atmos Clock 20--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair-­ Boston, MA Gerald Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI 27--Servicing ET A Quartz Chronographs--Minneapolis, Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair MN James Adams, CMW, FBHI Introduction to the Watchmaker's Lathe NOVEMBER 1991 James Lubic 9-10--400-Day Clock Repair--Charlotte, NC Cuckoo Clock Repair 9-10--Repair of the Atmos Clock--Houston, TX 10--Servicing ET A Quartz Chronographs--Atlanta, GA James Williams 10--Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair--Oklahoma 400-Day Clock Repair City, OK John A. Nagle 16-17--Cuckoo Clock Repair--Albuquerque, NM Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs 16-17--Introduction to the Watchmaker's Lathe- Kansas City, MO James Broughton, CMEW 30-Dec. 1--400-Day Clock Repair--Savannah, GA