GENUINE St. Patrick's DUMONT TWEEZERS Day Special !
List Our Price No.3 $10.20 $6.25 Carbon Steel No.3C $10.20 $6.75 No.5 $13.65 $8.75 Special Price OFFER YOUR ORDER MUST BE RECEIVED BY MARCH 17 TO BE ELIGIBLE FOR THESE PRICES. Shop Cas-~@rr for 'i" Genuine Watch Crystals GENUINE ROLEX GENUINE TROPIC AND CYCLOPS 0 CRYSTALS IN GENUINE ROLEX Envelopes SEIKO GENUINE OMEGA With Factory Number WATCH CRYSTALS Assortments IN GENUINE OMEGA ENVELOPES WITH FACTORY NUMBER AND R-1, One each 18 Crystals, 6 Tropic- S-166, 20 regular, 30 tension ring MM SIZE 12 Cyclops $162.50 crystals, 6 hardlex, 6 hardlex with R-2, One each all 62 Crystals, 34 ring 165.00 Omega-A, One each 18 Seamaster, Tropic-28 Cyclops 535.00 This assortment comes with a Nine Unicoc Crystals ...... $77.50 Drawer Steel Cabinet with plenty of Omega-B, One each 36 Seamaster, Each in container labeled for entire line. room for expansion. Order now and we Unicoc Cyclops Crystals ... $150.00 Complete simplified up-to-date Rolex will include a Seiko Case Parts Catalog .. Omega-C, One each 72 Seamaster, case to cyrstal reference chart with each FREE! Unicoc Cyclops Crystals . . . 290.00 Rolex Assortment.
P.O. BOX 2347, DRAWER A CINCINNATI, OHIO 45201 Cas-~&rr Co. TELEPHONE (513) 241-7075 IMPORTERS-MANUFACTURERS-DISTRIBUTORS: DIAMONDS, JEWELRY, MATERIAL AND SUPPLIES m y AWi membership dues. ----~~~~::--:~~~=-=------1 D o n ' t forget to send in I w ould n 't w ant to VOLUME 4, NUMBER 3 m i ss out on MARCH, 1980 getting my H.T . just because you f or- got to ® mail in my dues I H
Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute
LESLIE L. SMITH THE PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE Pass it on: 4 Selected Short Subjects
MILTON C. STEVENS AWi NEWS MEMBERSHIP 8 With No Ho-Hum, New Members Come
FRED S. BURCK.HARDT THE ROCK QUARRY 10 Sell Yourself REC to meet MARSHALL F. RICHMOND 14 PICKLE BARREL R eplacing and Tipping Prongs and Beads in San Francisco JOSEPH RUGOLE WATCH ADJUSTMENTS 20 Hairsprings and Jsochronism
JOSEPH RUGOLE SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING Part one of a series: 24 San Francisco Site
LOUIS A. ZANONI GLOSSARY OF SOLID STATE TERMS Solid State 26 A Glossary of Electronic Terms Used in Quartz Watches: Part J Glossary
OTTO BENESH 2 8 CLOC~ CHATTER A Modicum ofMainsprings
THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER A look at MARVIN E. WHITNEY 36 More Marine Chronometers Hallmarks ORVILLE R. HAGANS 40 IN THE SPOTLIGHT Trumpeter and Pipe Organ Clocks
HENRY B. FRIED 42 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS A Look at Hallmarks Perlman named
ARCHIE B. PERKINS 48 TECHNICALLY WATCHES WMJDA Spring Bars and Watch Bands Man of the year SEAN C. "PAT" MONK 54 ESSENCE OF CLOCK REPAIR French 8-Day Carriage Clock DEPARTMENTS ROBERT F. BISHOP 56 AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN Th e "Ideal" Affiliate Chapter Our Readers Write / 6 AWI Bench Courses / 7 Horological Times ISSN0145-9546 is published monthl · Bench Tips / 23 '.'1akers Institute, Harold J. Herman, Editor, 3700 Harris~na~d copyn~ht~d b~ the_ American Watch- ing and reproduction is prohibited without pe m· . f venue, Cmc'.nnat1, Ohio 45211. Reprint 1 New Members/ 47 Subscription, $30.00 per year, $ . per copy American Watchmakers Institute. 4 00 ~n ;~~~ ~o~ te New Products/ 60 copy outside the United States. Second c n_1te t~te~ an~ $36:00 per year, $5.00 per the American Watchmakers Institute. lass postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. Copyright@1980 by News in the Trade / 62 Classified Ads / 66 Dates to Remember/ 68 Advertiser's Index I 68 H ROLOGICAL
Executive and Editorial Offices AWi Central P.O. Box llOll 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 452ll Telephone: (513) 661-3838
Harold]. Herman: Editor Thomas J. Herman: Managing Editor ''THAT'S SILVER, SON!'' Virginia C. Montgomery: Associate Editor
LuAnn Martin: Art Director Sue Scott: Business Manager t had been some time since the "What was that?" Mildred Howard: Circulation Manager I battery had been changed in my "See this two-cell flashlight?" Lee Rothan: Circulation quartz watch, and a trip to see Joe, my "Yeah" friendly jeweler-watchmaker, was in order. "Well, first I took some cord Technical Editors: Entering his establishment, I noted that and tied it onto the flashlight so it Otto Benesh Archie B. Perkins Joe had a distinct shadow on the left would hang around his neck. Then I James H. Broughton Marshall F. Richmond side of his face. I thought I would parry took two wires and attached one to the Fred S. Burckhardt Joseph Rugole before quizzing him on the details of his positive pole and the other to the negative Steven G. Conover Leslie L. Smith acquiring that monumental shiner. pole of the flashlight. The two wires Joe Crooks William 0. Smith, Jr. "Hi, Joe. Thought I'd stop in ran inside his shirt and down his sleeve Paul Fisk James L. Tigner to have the battery changed in my to his watch. I put a square plug on one Henry B. Fried Marvin E. Whitney Orville R. Hagans watch." wire and a round one on the other and Ewell D. Hartman "Hi , Ted. Can do, but I know then drilled a round hole and a square Gerald G. Jaeger you're wondering what happened to my hole into the watch case. Plus and minus, Sean C. Monk eye." you know. I bypassed the up converter Robert A. Nelson "Well. .." that steps the voltage from 1.5 volts "Well this guy came in last to 3 volts and plugged 'er in. It worked great!" A WI Officers: week and wanted the silver cell changed in his LCD. As I was opening his case, Leslie L. Smith, CMW, CEWS: President "I wonder what the watch com Joe Crooks: 1st Vice President he asked me how much it was going to cost him. I said $22.00. Busy at my pany will think of that!" Karl Buttner, CMW: 2nd Vice President "They'll probably like it. That's Charles H. Mann: Secretary work, I heard heavy breathing and strange one less component they'll have to manu Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC: Treasurer noises emanating from his throat. The back of the case removed, I looked up facture. It'll decrease their costs.'' "But what did this guy say when A WI Directors: and saw a clenched fist three inches from my eye. The path of destruction was you hung the flashlight around his neck Dorothy M. Aderman and wired him?" Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D. inevitable. When the stars subsided, I James H. Broughton, CEWS found myself looking up at him with "At first, he didn't like it at Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC my good eye. Speech was impossible, all. But when I told him the entire thing Ewell D. Hartman, CMW for he had lodged his knee into my only cost $14.95, he calmed down a Geral~ G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS Adam's apple under 215 lbs. of pressure. bit. By the way, I made a nice profit, Donald W. Leverenz, CMW Then he said, 'I'm gonna be back here at that. But the clincher that really sold Sean C. Monk, CMW' tomorrow and pick up my watch and it Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS the package was when I showed him Eric R. Samuel, CMW ain't gonna cost me $22.00.' " how at night he could use the flash "My gosh, Joe. What did you light to read the time on his watch. He do?" Robert F. Bishop: Affiliate Chapter Director almost flipped with joy! In fact, he "Ted, I knew that I was in came back and gave me a T-bone steak." trouble. I also knew that I wasn't going Joseph Rugole, CMW: Research and Education "Well, Joe, I appreciate your to sell that battery to him at cost, but Council Chairman ingenuity, but I think I 'II just take the like all good watchmaker-clockmakers, regular silver cell." I dug back into my bag of tricks and came "Sure, Ted. I understand. That'll Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director up with the answer." be $28.00." UDE Quality Clock Movements
# JOO Transistor Quartz Insert Movement Housed in a dust free cap # 450Quartz # 600 sule. this reliable move Complete W/Dial - Hands ment represents your best value today in a transistor clock movement Ru ns for over a year on a single ·c· Precise timekeeping is now cell and accurate to within 10 seconds per day The available for the clock in 75 stallation and replacement low price combined with $ 5. In Quantity trouble free service make markets These units are this unit an exceptional ready to install quickly and OO In Quantity value $ 5. econo mically. Comes com· 1 or 2 @ $6.75-3 to 9 @ $6.25-10to 24@ 2 3 / 8" x 2 13/ 16" x 7 / 8" plete with brushed brass $5.75- 25 to 49 @ $5.25-50 to 99 @ $5.00 f inished bezel-dial & hands. 1 or 2@ S18.95 each each, Write for quantities over 100. Extreme accuracy is now available Available in 3"-3 3/e" 4 " diam. 3 to 9@ $16.95 each ALMOST AS SMALL at very moderate cost for customers AS A WATCH! # 475 that demand precise time keeping. # 650 Quartz Insert Weighing only 1 .25 Tiny Quartz Movement Only ounces, this Versatile Quality features such as high quartz Movement will carry a osci II at ion of 4 .194304 MHz. sweep second hand and run for over one year on a Assures reliable time keeping as single "AA" cell-only 9116" thick this com· well as accuracy. The small di The same movement as used pact unit can be fit into mensions are ideal for all jobs. Fully in the above insert complete. any type case or panel. A Runs on AA Pen lite Cells. Can single center nut enables warranted for one year. $5.75 In Quantity be installed 3 ways, friction. the movement to be easi fixing screw or case screws. ly fixed to a dial. The hand 1 [email protected] Only 23/e" diameter for easy setting knob, seconds [email protected] 1or2@ $8.75-3to9@ $7,50-10to 24@ setter. and battery com @$6.75-25 to 49 $6.75-25to 49@ S6 .00-50to 99@$5.75 installation in wood, metal or 1or2@ $11 .95 each partmentare convenient @ S6.00-50 to 99 each. Write for quantities over 100. ceramics. 3 to 9@ S10.95 each ly located on the back. @ S5. 75 each Accurate to (±) 10 Write for quantities seconds per month. over 100.
Electric Insert Movement # 500 Quartz # 575 100 Pendulum # Complete with Dial-Hands-Cord Quartz Striking Pendulum $ 9, 5 o In Quantity 81/4" x 5%" This compact unit can be fitted into any type of en 24. OO In Quantity closure. case or panel. The pendulum does not affect This versatile and extremely accurate quartz accuracy of one movement with its beautiful chime minute per year, so that tones would be a welcome addition to 3V." 4" 5Vz" various lengths of 8 to 14 any room. Can be used with or without $5.70 $5.95 $6.20 inches may be used. Noise pendulum. Comes complete with hands from movement is negli- and pendulum. A clock movement ready to incor gible, only ticking sound •Chimes on half hour-Counts on hour porate into •a case of your own •Accurate to ± 1 0 seconds per month of pendulum can be heard. design. A complete unit with dial •Runs for 2 years on ·o· alkaline cell and hands, covered by glass for de 1or2 @ $13.95-3 to 9@$12.75-10to24@ •Chimes can be silenced by pushing lever •Dependable-Fully guaranteed for one year pendability and ease of installation. Sl 1.75-25 to 49@ $10.50-50 to 99@$9.50. Versatile because of a variety of Write tOr quantities over 100. 1 or 2 @ $27.95-3 to 9 @ $25.95- Carton of 10 524.00 mounting techniques. DELIVERY FROM STOCK - PRICES INCLUDE HANDS - USE COUPON BELOW PLEASE SEND MOVEMENTS AS LISTED PLUS $1.50 FOR DELIVERY. ------# 300 TRANSISTOR MOVEMENTS @------ ------# 475 TINY QUARTZ MOVEMENTS @------ ------# 450 QUARTZ MOVEMENTS @------ ------# 600 # 650 @------ ------# 500 QUARTZ PENDULUMS @------ ------# 575 QUARTZ STRIKING PENDULUMS @------ ------# 100 ELECTRIC MOVEMENTS @ ~~~~~~~- We also stock numerals-markers Check here for booklet. # 300-450-500 available in Reg. Post (to 3/a" thickness) and Line Post (to%" thick). NAME ADDRESS CITY STATE ZIP '------*--~~~-~-9C?:}~~~;;:·:i~:;~~~~f:,;;'_"-~------_____ ; March 1980/Horological Times 3 President's Message/ Leslie L. Smith, CMW, CEWS On the front SELECTED SHORT SUBJECTS Above
ust a few selected short subjects The Clouds J will be covered this month. I would like to remind you again that the dollar On our March cover, a rising sea lost over 13% of its buying power during of fog creates floating islands of 1979: your take-home pay will buy the mountain peaks in Mt. Rainier your family 13% less of the necessities of life unless you have done something National Park, located near Seattle, about it. Washington. Mt. Rainier itself is In the February issue of the 14,410 ft. high, making it the Horological Times , you found a member highest peak in Washington State. ship application outlining the many Gaseous fumes still emit from its services offered by A WI. Please take it cone, and twenty-six glaciers out of the magazine, study it carefully originate around its summit. The so you will know what services you have Indians of the Northwest called it available, and then use the application to "Mountain that was God." join a new member. One member is all we ask from you. In your membership renewal packet, you found the Material Cost Survey report. Study it carefully and Leslie L. Smith adjust your prices accordingly. You will note that some materials remained about the same while others increased appre ciably, and a few rose by nearly 300%. week-long Residence Course being held Don't get caught short when pricing at the Marriott Inn. Having an oppor infrequently used parts. Keep this report tunity to work in both workshops and in a handy place near your bench. It's with both instructors gave me a chance a great help in estimating jobs. to see what a great job these men are A WI has just completed an doing. outstanding workshop week in Orlando, While I'm on the subject of Florida. Actually, we had two workshops workshops, please check the schedule going on at the same time. Mr. Robert in Horological Times and make plans Nelson was holding his Solid State to attend the ones held in your area. workshop for forty watchmakers at If we don't have one scheduled for you Quality Inn, and at the same time, anci you're interested, write AWi Central. Mr. Gerald Jaeger was conducting his If enough interest is shown, we'll be program on Meter Reading for the there. 'UCID
Jeweled Dustproof Crown Assortment SPECIAL FREE OFFER AS AN INTRODUCTORY SPECIAL WITH THE PUR CHASE OF THIS ASSORTMENT W E W ILL INCLUDE SPRING DUSTPROOF THREE (31 DOZEN STEM EXTENDERS TAP 10 - JEWELED CROWN THIS SPECIAL OFFER IS FOR A LIMITED TIME AN[) MAY BE WITHDRAWN WITHOUT NOTICE $21.00 VALUE FREE
4 Horological Times /March 1980 The One Multi-Function Timing Instrument That Does It All.
L'ln-strumenl is an appropriata name for the unique new Vibrograf MU-700. For the MU-700 Is truly the ultlmate watch tester. r-r---- ...... ~ It measures the rate, beat and amplitude - ~.. !" •"' ~ of all mechanical watches, as well as the rate of all quartz and electronic watches. of scales and functions is push-button And it does it with an accuracy exceeding simple, too. that of the most advanced quartz WHAT DOES ALL THIS MEAN TO YOU? watches made. For the first time, watchmakers oan The superiority of L'lnstrument, with its have at their command a single Instrument broad range of capabilities and extreme that performs all watch testing functions And with Portescap's easy payment accuracy, is.the result of many years of formerly requiring up to four different rest plans, there's no need for any large cash research and development, combined with and/or measurement machines. outlays. You can select a plan that best the most sophisticated IC (integrated Now, we 're not aboµt to suggest that suits the needs of your business. circuit) technology in the watch repair you discard your newly purchased or FREE IN-STORE DEMONSTRATION industry. functioning analyzer, gradoscop or timer At Portescap, we've updated an old But as sophisticated as Its circuitry is, and repJace them with the Vibrograf MU-700. axiom: "One demonstration is worth
L'lnstrument ls simple to operate. Two However1 If you don't presently have several thousand words and pictures." sensors (microphonic holder /stands) these instruments to perform the We're prepared to set-up a working eliminate the need for probes and special appropriate testfunctions, wouldn't it be demonstration on your premises, at your attachments. One sensor is used for all wise to invest in L'lnstrument? The one convenience, with no obligation or strings meehanlcal watches and the other is usad instrument that does it all. attached. All yoi.J have to do is call your for all quartz and electronic watches. Or, if your present test equipment is local Vibrograf salesman, or Even monitoring measurements on unreliable, inaccurate, or too old to be (516) 437-8700 now. L'lnstrument is simplified. Six graduated useful on today's sophisticated watches, direct reading LED scales (the latest in Portescap's liberal Trade-In Program can Portescap U.S. incabloc®~ meter technology) enable "at-a-glance" help you upgrade your test facilities with VIBROGRAF MACHINE DIVISION \) exact read ings to be made. And selection L'lnstrument. 6 Ohio Drive, Lake Success, N.Y. 11042 AWi Bench Courses/1980
JUNE, 1980 Programs Instructors A Basic Electricity & Use of Meters Jeager 1 B Detriot, MI Carpenter B Citizen LCD Alarm Carpenter 1 F (a & b) Omaha, NE Opp C (a) Citizen LCD Multi-Alarm Broughton 1 G Ontario, Canada Beiderman C (b) ESA/ETA Quartz Analog Broughton 8 C (a & b) Baltimore, MD Broughton D (a) Seiko 4300 Ladies' Quartz Analog Smith 8 D (a & b) Kansas City, MO Smith D (b) Seiko LCD Chronograph/Alarm Smith 8 E Denver, CO Nelson D (c) Seiko 0903A Men's Quartz Analog Smith 26 A Boise, ID Jaeger E Intro. to Solid State Watch Repair Nelson 30 A San Francisco , CA Jaeger F (a) Bulova Quartz Analog (SMQ) Opp JULY, 1980 F (b) ESA LCD Chronograph Opp G ESA Digital/Analog Biederman 1 A San Francisco, CA Jae ger 2 A Sacramento, CA Jaeger 6 A Los Angeles, CA Jaeger 7 A Los Angeles, CA Jaeger 9 A Fresno, CA Jaeger SEPTEMBER, 1980 14 A Birmingham, AL Jaeger
OCTOBER, 1980 MARCH. 1980
2 F (a & b) Huntsville, AL Opp 19 G Richmond, VA Biederman 9 E Norfolk, VA Nelson 9 C (a) Fort Lauderdale, FL Broughton 9 D (a & b) Los Angeles, CA Smith 10 D (b) San Diego, CA Smith 11 D (b) Albuquerque, NM Smith 22 A Kerrville, TX Jaeger 23 C (a) New Philadelphia, OH Broughton 23 B New Orleans, LA Carpenter FILL OUT THE INFORMATION FORM AND APRIL, 1980 MAIL IT TODAY! 8 A Daytona Beach FL Jaeger 10 A Tampa, FL Jaeger 13 C (a & b) Newark, NJ Broughton I AM INTERESTED IN YOUR BENCH COURSE TO BE 13 G Pittsburgh, PA Biederman 13 A ?, IA Jaeger PRESENTED ON ______AT 18 D (b) ?,WI Smith 19 D (a) ?,WI Smith ------.PLEASE 20 B Knoxville , TN Carpenter 20 E Cincinnati, 0 H Nelson SEND ME MORE INFORMATION. 20 F Minneapolis, MN Opp
MAY, 1980
4 B Merrillville, IN Carpenter I ADDRESS : ______4 C (a & b) Salt Lake City , UT Broughton I 4 F (a & b) Rochester, NY Opp I 4 E Okmulgee, OK Nelson : CITY, STATE, ZIP : ______17 D (a & b) Seattle, WA Smith I 18 A Boston, MA Jaeger I Please return this form to: 18 G Findlay, OH Biederman I AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Ave ., Cincinnati, OH 4521 i 18 D (a & b) Spokane, WA Smith I------6 Horological Times/Match 1980 Our Readers Write
WHO'S SORRY NOW?!
For crying out loud! For those of us who ANOTHER EXCITED READER save our Horological Times magazines, What are you trying to do? Make us CARTOON cutting out the information form is all go blind? I practically had to use a heresy II! Especially when Mr. Rugole's CORNER loupe to read the second page of Joe excellent articles are on the other side! I have noticed a difference Rugole's article this month! (February) in the look of my hus Dick Laninga band's Horological Times. Robert Kent Lynden, WA In fact, I enjoy looking Los Angeles, CA through the magazine al- most as much as he Editor's Note-Sorry , Mr. Kent, f or does. Cute little caricatures. Keep up that page of small print. Please consider, the good work! though, the exception rather than the Rose Griffith rule. We strive to keep the type as readable Chicago, IL NEW CUSTOMER as possible. I enjoyed a recent issue of Horological Times so much, I'm joining A WI. Please I really enjoy the Horological Times, start me off with the January issue. Horological Times welcomes letters from its but why the silly cartoons? This is a readers. Please write us at AWi Central, 3700 trade journal. Curtis G. Willoughby Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211. Rick Anderson Louisville, OH Miami, FL
INTRODUCING .....
MDC-1201 DIGITAL WATCH MODULE TESTER
$145.00
At last, a digital watch module tester that is simple enough for everyone to use, versitile enough to perform all the basic tasks. yet in expensive enough for everyone to affordl FEATURES INCLUDE: • LED and LCD testing capability at the flip of a switch. ~ • Spring loaded watch battery si ze con The First Major Improvement tacts. @r in Dust Collectors in 40 Years • Completely portable; operates with 2 standard size " C" batteries. • Bench size: measures only 4" x 6" x 3" POLISHER/DUST COLLECTOR high. A superbly engineered unit offering the finest in performance • Microampere current drain measure and the best value in price available. ment capability. Available with or without motor. • Full one year warranty. • Comes with instructions and helpful RUGGED YET LIGHTWEIGHT trouble shooting guide. EFFICIENT QUIET ECONOMICAL CALL OR WRITE FOR OUR FREE CATALOGUE For a free brochure contact: Dept. HT DIGITAL WATCH REPAIR 1 0803 COM POSITE DR, DALLAS, TEXAS 75220 PARTS AND EQUIPMENT .( SINCEi 923 431 ISOM RD, SAN A N TON I O ~ TEXAS 7821 6 INC. , VICTORY BLVD' GLENDALE CA 91201 tt/Ml 172~ 1 STATE RD., MEDIA, PA 19063 (215) 565-7610
March 1980/Horological Times 7 AWi News/ Milton C. Stevens
With No Ho-Hum, New Members Come
As you read my column this month, Cincinnati, Ohio. We plan another course M. A WI will be in the midst of its for the Summer of 1980-tentatively annual membership campaign. Now I for early August. We welcome expressions know many of you who read this first of interest. If the need becomes apparent, sentence will greet it with a "Ho-hum" or we could schedule two courses-one in "So what?" We are so used to being Cincinnati, Ohio, and another at any deluged with this drive, that campaign, location where we would be assured of etc., that our selective consciousness is an enrollment of twenty participants. trained to screen out these statements. If you are active in a group that might However, as we begin a new decade, we like to bring this course to your area, can't help but reflect back on what has I would like to hear from you. transpired within A WI during the last I would like to remind students decade. We believe that the past ten years who plan to apply for a student loan have shown significant growth zind that May 15 is the deadline for making progress in the services AWI offers. We applications for consideration in June. hope to continue this growth and expand The A WI ELM Trust has been making our capabilities during the eighties. loans to watchmaking students who are Our ability to better serve the in need of financial assistance since horological industry and the individual 1974. Interested parties should write watch and clockmaker is limited only for details of the program and for an by economic factors, and in many in Milton C . Stevens application form. The amount of money stances, numbers. The latter is true when available to loan this year will be governed we are called upon to deal with Federal during this drive. A special application by the revenue we receive from the sale Agencies. The first question we hear blank has been included at the con of used watch cells which have been from these agencies is, "What percentage clusion of this article for your conve donated to this fund by AWI members. of the watchmakers in the United States nience. If you need more, photo copy In light of the recent "metal-mania" do you represent?" Like all good poli this one or contact AWI Central. that has hit our country this year, we ticians, they understand numbers. hope that you will continue to help us The Membership Committee, We have just completed the and help these students by sharing some under the capable leadership of its second Residence Course in Solid State of your used watch cells with the A WI Chairman, Dorothy Aderman, is en Watch Repair. The course was held in ELM Trust. listing the aid of each member to secure Orlando, Florida, February 2-7. The In my column next month, I a net gain of 10% in membership this instructors were Gerald Jaeger, Les will report on the results of the Executive year. The committee has issued a similar Smith, Bob Nelson, and Louis Zanoni. Committee meeting which will have been appeal to each Affiliate Chapter. It has All but Mr. Zanoni are regular AWI completed by then. Judging by the challenged them to increase the A WI bench course instructors; Mr. Zanoni committee reports I have seen so far, membership in their state by 10%. The is President of Zantech, Inc., of Trenton, A WI is having a very productive year. first to accept this challenge was Ohio New Jersey. Mike Danner, AWI's Ad We hope each of you will support which was closely followed by neighboring ministrative Director, coordinated the our efforts at this time by making a Pennsylvania. We hope each of you will program. This course was just as successful serious attempt to secure one new member interest a friend in A WI membership as the first one held in Augest, 1979, in for A WI. 'liCill application for membership Enroll me immediately so that I can get all the generous benefits of A.W.I. membership. Here is my $30.00 for annual dues. AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS Name !please print)------INSTITUTE Address City ------State ------Zip Code------3700 Harrison Avenue Please check: Watchmaker D Watchmaker-Jeweler D Clockmaker D Other______Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Retail Jeweler D Student D If you are a member of a guild or association or school. please indicate: Name of Organization or school------ lf you are certified. Indicate: Type of Certificate------Number ------
8 Horological Times/March 1980 You could spend around $3000 for a digital promotional display. display multi-function rate measuring in Pay $2000 or $3000 for a timer? Ridiculous. strument. Now that Citizen's CQT-101 is here. But it isn't necessary. Place your order with your material house The Citizen CQT-101 can measure not only or directly to Citizen Watch Company. For quartz watches (analog and digital) but also more information, write: Citizen Watch Co. of tuning fork and balance wheel watches with America, Inc., Service Headquarters, 12140 all the accuracy you need. W. Olym-pic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90064. Its measuring range is from 0.01 second a Tel.: (213) 826-6541. day to ±399 seconds per day. To monitor various types of watches and clocks, you simply change the microphone. The CQT-101 is the only quartz timing in O CITIZE We sell with you, not through you. strument you'll ever need. And even when it's not helping you build *Suggested retail. Price does not include shipping and mic rophone for mechanical watches. Sales tax additional in your service business, its attractive, profes California. sional look makes it in an effective in-store SELL YOURSELF! By Fred S. Burckhardt any watchmakers today are well versed in the repair of timepieces, but when it comes time to deal with customers, their personalities M change-something similar to Dr. Jekyl and Mr. Hyde. I've known P.O.W.'s who have been treated better than some watchmakers treat their customers. This is why you'll find many watchmakers stuck in the back room or off in a small comer somewhere out of the customer's reach. The old excuse is "I can't get any work done waiting on customers all the time," or "I'm a watchmaker, not a salesman." The truth is they are either afraid to talk to the customer or they don't know how to talk to a customer. Now I'm not saying that a watchmaker should jump up every time someone needs a spring bar or has to have a watch band put on. These tasks can be handled by someone else. However, a customer who has a fine timepiece or one of great senti mental value deserves to be taken care of by the watchmaker. Selling a watch repair job is just as important as selling a diamond or any piece of jewelry. How well you sell your repair work will make the dif ference between being a successful, well-paid watchmaker or just another repair person making a fair living. When I say fair living, I'm talking about the difference between eating hamburger or prime rib; being able to take your wife out to a nice restaurant once in a while; wearing a two-hundred and fifty dollar suit instead of a fifty-dollar suit which you had to wait until it was on sale to buy. What is a successful salesperson? The logical answer, of course, is someone who is able to move the most merchandise, for the most profit, in the least amount ot time. There is an important prerequisite to becoming a successful seller of merchandise, and that is being a successful seller of oneself. All top-notch salespeople have learned to sell themselves; this is why some customers will deal only with a certain salesperson even if it means waiting or having to come back another time. That particular salesperson has built up the customer's confidence and trust to such an extent that they would not think of making a purchase without first consulting "their" salesman or saleswoman. What are the characteristics of these pros?
ENTHUSIASM: Have you ever had one of those days when you made several nice sales in a row? You became so enthused that it was hard waiting for the next customer. You felt you were on top of the world; your thoughts were completely positive; nothing could go wrong. Most of all, you were really enjoying your work. Enthusiasm and enjoyment go hand in hand; each is an outcome of the other. What about the day when you missed several sales? The spark was gone and you almost hated to face another customer. Your only thought was how much longer you had until closing time. Your outlook was completely nega tive, and you weren't enjoying yourself at all. This is what happens when enthusiasm goes down the drain. So what if you lose a sale? Forget it. You are not going to sell every customer that comes into your store or shop! How ever, do your best to retain that magic ingredient, ENTHUSIASM; it is con tagious. Not only will the customer get caught up with it-so will the other people around you.
10 Horological Times/March 1980 T
by FREDS.BURCKHARDT
PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE: "Is this a better watch than that do some selling it almost made me quit the business. I was one?" "How do they make cultured pearls?" "What is the actually afraid to approach the customer! My boss at the difference between a genuine and a synthetic stone?" "What time called me aside and said, "There's no reason for you to is 14 karat gold?" "What is meant by so many points in a fear your customers. You know more about jewelry than diamond?" "Why do they put jewels in a watch?" Do these 99% of the people that walk through the door. Remember questions sound familiar to you? They are asked every day this and you will make a good jewelry salesman." by customers who want correct, intelligent answers-and they Through the years , as your product knowledge expect them from you. If you go into a store and the clerk increases and you develop more confidence in yourself, you can't satisfy your need to know details of the merchandise will find it is just as easy to sell a five-carat diamond as it is to you are about to buy, you go somewhere else to find a know sell a $5 key ring. ledgeable salesperson who can tell you what you want to SINCERITY: When you approach a customer and ask "How know. can I help you?" do you really mean it? Or, are you thinking We sometimes forget that the retail jewelry trade to yourself, "Hurry and tell me what you want. I'm busy!" is a specialized business. People come to us because they ex Customers sense whether or not you are sincere in pect us to be knowledgeable about our merchandise; otherwise your offer to be of service. You must remember that whatever they could go to discount houses or other outlets that handle prompted them to come into your store or shop, it is a problem. It could be a broken spring bar, a loose stone in their ring, or perhaps they don't know what to select for a gift. They "Selling a watch repair J·ob come to you for help in solving their problems, so take an interest. Regardless of how minor it may seem to you, the is J·ust as important as matter is very important to them. Be nice! Even though it may be one of those days when nothing seems to be going selling a diamond or any right for you-or you are working on a tough repair job and have been interrupted several times already and you may be piece of iewelry." a little irritated-don't take it out on the customer. They didn't cause your problem and besides, they have one of their own. I recall seeing a sign in a store that read: "BE jewelry but have personnel who are not trained as well as we have to be. No one is to be blamed for your lack of know ledge but yourself. Recently at a store meeting one saleslady "When you know what you remarked that she would like to know more about colored gemstones. Yet her desk is within 6 feet of a display that are talking about, you speak contains pamphlets on all the major gemstones; there are stacks of trade magazines around; GIA and AGS books are with authority; this makes in the bookcase. But the lady has never taken the time to read them or to take some home to read. Watch companies and the customer have more jewelry manufacturers spend millions of dollars sending out infonnation about their products, but needless to say, most conjidence in you and respect of it ends up in the trash can without ever having been read. your Judgement." There are no magic pills or machines that can instill knowledge of the jewelry business into your head. It takes NICE. EVERYONE YOU MEET IS FIGHTING A TOUGH time to learn, so do yourself a favor and set aside some time BATTLE." How very true! for reading about your profession. It need only be a half an hour a day, or an evening each week, but what really HONESTY AND INTEGRITY: There is no need to dwell matters is that you do it and stick with it. You will find that on these. You won't last very long in this business without it will pay off in more ways than one. them. Never tell a little white lie in order to make a sale; sooner or later the truth will come out and you will end up CONFIDENCE: Undoubtedly, confidence comes from having losing much more than the few dollars you made. Your repu product knowledge. When you know what you are talking tation is at stake with every customer you deal with, so don't about, you speak with authority ; this makes the customer jeopardize it; no sale is that important. have confidence in you aild respect your judgement. I must admit, the first time I had to get from behind the bench and Continued on page 59
March 1980/Horological Times 11 AS 11 1/z'" 536 «GABARITQUARTZ»: H 5,50 Runs 5 or 10 years. Outstandingly For people who can't, or AS Gabarit Quartz. robust. don't want to have their Large interchangeability battery changed frequent of parts, simplicity, reli ly, we have created a ability, and remarkable calibre that will run for 5 sturdiness: All of these to 10 years, according to qualities reflect the tech the battery chosen: nological know-how of l
ETA. Tell your custo mers how they can have 5 or 10 years of com @ETA SA plete satisfaction. Fabrique d'ebauches We will gladly give you 2540 Grenchen/Switzerland more information. Just get Tel. (065) 51 2111 in touch with us. Telex 349 371 :Bongs and beads that are broken off or worn seem to generate more repair questions than any other jewelry problem. Working around stones is uifficult because there is much more Replacing involved than in ring sizing or shank repairs. Even though this is true, with instruction, practice, and common sense, And these repairs can become routine. We will try to provide the instruction; the rest is up to you. Tools needed are shown in Figure 1: (A) 4/0 buff Tipping paper mounted on glass, (B) India oil stone, (C) Stone setting pliers, (D) Needle files, (E) Block of steel for anvil, (F) Chasers Prongs hammer, (G) Picks, (H) Third hand, (I) Beading tools, (J) Beading tool handle with one tool inserted, (K) Beading block, (L) Round belly and flat belly gravers. In addition, tools that And are more costly but not absolutely necessary are a rolling mill, flex shaft tool, cup burs, and an engravers block. I failed to Beads mention a ring clamp which is necessary to hold the work when beading or cutting with gravers if you do not have an engravers block. Materials needed are gold solder (cut in strips of different widths and left attached to the sheet), flux, gold wire (0.8 mm), borax and alcohol solution, and pickling By Marshall F. Richmond solution. When the prong tips holding a stone in a ring are worn or broken, first analyze the problem to determine the best method of repair. Check the stone to see if it will stand heat; diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and most synthetic stones will. If there is any question, it is better to remove the stone as it is impossible to shield against heat when heat is applied directly to the stone. Experience reveals that most repairs to prongs and tips can be made without stone removal. After the procedure is determined, the ring must be cleaned; it should be dipped in borax and alcohol, and this burned off, leaving the ring and stone protected from oxidation. A good rule to follow is that if the tip of a prong or bead is still over the stone but worn thin, a solder tip is adequate; ifit is worn or broken off completely, then the prong or bead should be replaced. To solder tip, the end of the prong should be heated and flux applied with a piece of sharpened pegwood to the exact area where the solder should flow. Take a small square of solder (white gold solder for white prongs and yellow gold solder for yellow prongs) and place it on the asbestos pad. Direct the flame of the torch to it (after fluxing) and heat until it melts, forming a small sphere or ball. Touch it with the very tip of the pick and remove the heat, which should attach it to the pick. Apply heat to the prong, and as it starts to get red, touch it with the gold solder ball on the end of the pick. Remove the pick. The gold solder being transferred to the prong tip should then flow enough to form a rounded tip on the end of the prong. Follow the same procedure until all prongs needing it have been tipped. If any of the prongs need to be replaced, there are two ways that this can be done. If there is enough metal from
Richmond, CMW
14 Horological Times/March 1980 will match the others, and if it is not tight against the stone, pull it tight with the setting pliers. Do not put excessive downward pressure on the prong as this may bend it . Instead, place one jaw of the pliers on the prong across the stone and the other jaw on the extended prong and squeeze until it is down tight. The use of the setting pliers requires practice so be careful while familiarizing yourself with them. The prong over the stone can be shaped with a small needle file so that after it is polished, it will be uniform with the others. In ac cepting a repair job needing prong or tip repairs, it is wise to estimate the cost high enough so that if necessary , all prongs can be replaced or tipped. This may be necessary to turn out a uniform job with all prong tips heavy and uniform. If there is not enough on the prong outside the stone to allow for a notch, a prong can be soldered to the outside edge of the worn one by first filing on a taper (Figure 2, G H View B) until the prong is even with the stone. Flux the filed Figure 1 surface and prepare the gold wire in the same manner as for the notched repair. To flatten the wire when a rolling mill the edge of the stone to the edge of the prong (at least one is not available, hammer it with the chasers hammer and a half millimeter), a notch can be cut in the edge of the prong steel anvil. The anvil shown in Figure 1, View E, is a block of with a 4/0 blade in the jewelers saw. See Figure 2, View A. steel I 1/2 in. x 5 in. x 3/4 in. which was obtained from a Flux this notch the same as for tipping. Prepare the 0 .8 mm junkyard. Hammer the wire until it is 0.4 or 0.5 mm thick. wire by flattening the end to a thickness of about 0.4 or Again we flux the flattened end and apply a small amount 0.5 mm and make sure the end is filed square with the wire of gold solder to the side that is to be soldered to the prong. so it will make a perfect fit in the notch. Flux this flattened Heat the prong until it turns red and place the soldered wire end on one side and flow a small piece of gold solder. With against the filed surface of the prong. Continue to heat until heat, pull it to the end but not over the end. Heat the prong the solder flows onto the prong. Immediately remove the heat. until red and fit the end of the wire into the notch. Continue Do not at any time quench a hot stone or cool it quickly. applying heat until the solder flows , making a strong soldered This will damage the stone. Always allow it to cool on the joint. Cut the wire off at the desired length for a prong that asbestos pad and never lay it on a piece of steel or metal that
Figure 2 . Four-prong settings
.8 mm Gold Wire
Filed Notch
A
.. March 1980/Horo/ogica/ Times 1S .8 mm Gold Wire
Point a Pick Gold + Solder Sphere ~ \. v I
A B
Figure 3 will absorb the heat quickly as this also can cause a stone breaking off and need replacement and tipping the same as to fracture. prongs. Bead-type settings are primarily used to secure dia As the wire will now be in a vertical position, it will monds, but sometimes rubies and synthetic stones are also be necessary to bend it over the stone to form the tip of the bead set. Almost any stone that is bead set will take heat. prong. Cut it off with the end cutting pliers leaving it longer Beads can be tipped or replaced without removing the stone than necessary to make the desired tip as it will be much easier if the usual precautions are taken such as precleaning, applying to bend with the setting pliers. After it is bent over the stone and burning off borax and alcohol, and never cooling too and made tight, the surplus gold can be cut off with the quickly. Beads can be replaced by more than one method, but jewelers saw fitted with a 6/0 blade, and then shaped with a tipping worn beads requires about the same procedure as small needle file. At this point, the ring should be pickled to tipping prongs. remove the borax and flux residues as well as any oxides which There are probably many methods of replacing may have formed. This can be done by soaking in the sul beads. I have found two ways in particular that I use. One phuric acid or sparex cold solution for thirty minutes, or by is to make a concave depression just away from the edge of boiling for a few seconds with either solution using the pickle the stone in the center of where the bead should be. This can boiling pan over the flame of the torch. (See "Pickle Barrel" of be done with a round belly graver, a round burr in the flex January, 1980 Horologi.cal Times.) After this is done, put a shaft tool, or a small drill. After preheating, flux this spot bronze scratch brush on the polishing motor and, while still using a piece of sharpened pegwood. Prepare a bead by melting wet, hold the ring against the rotating brush. Move it around a small piece of gold on the asbestos pad until it forms a until all residues are removed. The gold will shine except for a sphere. Flux this and place a very small piece of solder on, satin finish left by the scratch brush. With a bristle brush and under, or beside it. Again apply heat until this solder flows tripoli, polish the ends of the prongs to remove the file marks. over it, making a slightly larger sphere. Heat the setting until Shape the prongs and make them smooth so they will not it is red and transfer the prepared bead with the pick into the catch on materials when the ring is worn. With the cotton buff fluxed depression. Remove the pick. Continue applying heat and tripoli, polish the rest of the ring and then repeat, first until the solder on the bead flows onto the setting, making with rouge on the brush and then on the cotton buff. To a strong bond. Remove the heat. This requires coordination complete the job, wash the ring in a solution of soap and of both hands and the eyes as the heat must be applied, moved, ammonia or a commercial solution with a washout or tooth and withdrawn, and the solder pulled into the correct place brush. If an ultrasonic tank is available, this is even better for without overheating or causing damage to the setting. After the final cleaning. Dry and inspect it thoroughly. If it passes the bead is soldered in place, excess solder can be trimmed inspection, it is ready to deliver to your customer. away with a flat belly graver. The bead can then be finished Beads are used to secure stones in plate-type settings with a beading tool. Choose a beading tool of the proper size such as miracle or flat settings. They are subject to wear or (Continued on page 65)
16 Horological Times/March 1980 When it comes to ordering watch batteries, "Eveready." That way, you'll get the biggest some retailers are playing a game of chance. brand name in the miniature battery business. How? By asking for batteries by number You'! I get watch batteries that are voltage instead of by brand name. The outcome? You tested and visually inspected ... each and every may not always get the brand name you or one. And you'll get the quality and reliability your customers want. your customers want in a watch battery Follow the winning strategy: order by Don't play the numbers game. Ask UNION number and brand name. Our name- for the brand name "Eveready." CARBIDE
March 1980/Horological Times 17 Open ofetter lo the Watchmaker /rom JJenrlJ B. JrieJ
Dear Mr. Watchmaker: I think it is important for me to offer a message that I feel is of major interest to all of my fellow associates in the watch and clock repair industry. The last watch and clock material catalog was printed in 1965. This was a thick supple ment to an even thicl
Henry B. Fried '=£ -~ • BESTFIT is a registered trade mark of *t B. Jadow & Sons Inc. of New York.
18 Horological Times/March 1980 :=-- i::. ~ \ .. __ .. .. .,. _.. ... - ·- ~ THE BESTFIT® "MICROFICHE WATCH MATERIAL INFORMATION SYSTEM" The new completely up to date Bestfit Encyclopedia of Watch and Clock Material is being prepared in this new modern form. Microfiche is a type of micro film which is in common use and which can be enlarged for easy viewing through a reader similar to the one illustrated here. Bestfit breaks precedent by making this offer directly to the Watchmaker in order to keep costs down.
THE BESTFIT® MICROFICHE SYSTEM HAS THESE MANY ADVANTAGES: • The Bestfit microfiche system completely details interchangeable information on over 8000 watch and clock calibres. No longer will you be purchasing parts that you have on hand. Each photo lists parts for the complete movement. A position number for each part is shown on the card. No longer will it be necessary to de scribe the part. Merely order by system position number. Since your wholesaler has the same system and stocks by these num bers. he will be able to fill your orders in the least possible time. • It provides a systematic method of delivering new information in a continuing way, so that you will be completely. informed and up to date at all times. The first year's updating will be free. There after new supplementary information will be supplied upon re turn of the outdated set for an annual fee. • Information will be supplied regularly so that your system will be " al ive." • Information supplied by other manufacturers using similar micro fiche can be viewed on your reader. • You will be supplied with a high fidelity microfiche reader. The reader will require approximately 12 square inches of space and can easily fit in the corner of your work bench.
This is a limited time offer. If your order is not received by March 31, 1980 you may not be able to participate in this important oppor tunity. Delivery can be anticipated August/ September 1980.
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March 1980/Horological Times 19 airspring vibrating can be divided into two distinct H categories: that practiced by the manufacturers, and HAIRSPRINGS that used by watchmakers when making a repair. Although one could argue that methods used by manufacturers should not concern us, an even stronger argument can be made for AND the opposing view. If we know and understand the principles used in modern mass production of balances and hairsprings, we will better understand the enormous improvements made in mechanical watchmaking in the last twenty years. Some ISOCHRON ISM of that knowledge could also help us by eliminating from common practice certain futile operations which require a good deal of time and effort but often lead to failure. A good way to become acquainted with modern methods of balance and hairspring production is to briefly review the By methods used in the past and then look at the more recent improvements. Joseph Traditionally, balance and hairspring work in the manu Rugole facturing process was performed by specially trained workers known as springers. Originally, each hairspring was vibrated to a specific balance wheel by comparing its vibrations to a master balance. The development of electronic machinery changed this process through the use of vibrators which automatically determined the length of the hairspring. The operator first applied the hairspring to the balance wheel and then placed the unit into the automatic vibrator by threading the hairspring between a set of rollers. The balance was set in motion and its vibrations compared to a frequency standard built into the machine. Any differences between the two systems were automatically adjusted by changing the length of the hairspring until the hairspring was perfectly vibrated for that balance. The advancement this represented over the original method was tremendous. The springs were all adjusted to the same precision so that no further work was necessary r~ on the balance after the watch was assembled. Regulation to • (I) a.------mean time was simplified and greatly improved. There was but one serious problem to be solved. For some unknown reason, the performance of watches was quite varied; there was a substantial difference in the isochronous rates of watches with flat hairsprings. The only known way to improve that performance was to make an overcoil. Overcoil hairsprings became quite common in better-than-average quality watches, but the additional time and skills involved in producing them were costly. It had been known for some time that the inner terminal point of the hairspring had a significant influence on the performance of the balance unit, but it was difficult to isolate the cause-effect relationships because there were many. Gradually, one by one, the mysteries were solved. Among the later discoveries was the now well-known Caspari Effect. Older horological literature often deals with the controversial subject of isochronism of flat hairsprings. Some authors claimed that if a flat hairspring were pinned in such a way that the pinning point at the collet and the regulator pins fell on the same radial line (See Figure 1) , the short and the long amplitudes of the balance wheel would be per formed in the same length of time. That is to say that the balance wtit would be isochronous. To support their theory, they usually cited well-executed experiments. Others claimed that U1e hairspring had to be pinned at approximately 90° Figure 1. Pinning the hairspring for maximum gain in short arcs to the radius of the regulator pins. They too, performed experiments to prove their point. The irony is that the pro-
20 Horological Times/March 1980 ponents of neither theory could be proven wrong. Their experiments were performed on different types of watches, and in each case, their claims were valid. Caspari finally settled this controversy by stating the rules applicable to all flat hairsprings and all conditions. Briefly, the rules are as follows: If a hairspring is pinned to the collet in such a way that the pinning point lies on the imaginary line along which the hairspring expands and contracts the least amount, short amplitudes of the balance wheel will be faster than long amplitudes. If a hairspring is pinned on the imaginary line along which the flat hairspring expands the most, all long J~ amplitudes of the balance will be faster than the short ones. Having thus determined the two extreme positions, it is easy to conclude that there must be a position between the two at which the hairspring should be pinned so that both long and short amplitudes are completed in the same length of time. One would expect that such a location would be at 90° to the two reference lines. (The two lines are, in fact, one line passing through the center of the hairspring.) Theo retically, this should be so, but in practice other consider ations must be taken into account. There is no ideal situation or ideal balance. All operations occur under conditions where the effects of friction vary with the design of the individual - 0--9-9-, -'-<:-! -J-2-1 O·:l. watch. Pivot friction, air friction, and escapement friction differ from one model to the next. Regardless of the type Figure 2. Normal distribution of a large number of balances. The variation in the moment of inertia from one category to the of friction, it always slows down the motion of the system. next is such that it can be compensated by 1 oo of the length of Thus it seems natural that if the pinning point at the collet the outside coil of the hairspring. has the ability to speed up or slow down the time of one vibration of the balance, this ability should be used to speed up shorter amplitudes. It has been pointed out before that quency of watch balances and hairsprings. In fact, the over short amplitudes produce less kinetic energy than long ones, coil hairspring has almost disappeared from the scene. The and are therefore more affected by friction. A slightly faster exceptions are the highest quality watches in which it is still action of the pinning point would possibly compensate for the used today. slowing down of the balance due to friction. I believe that this Although I have no first-hand information about how fact about the behavior of the hairspring explains why the two the pinning point is determined, I suspect that it is done previous theories about the location of the pinning point could experimentally for each model on the prototype. When the not be proven wrong. Since the experiments were performed best location is so determined, all hairsprings for that model on different types of watches, the friction values for the two are pinned on the same location. There is no need for indivi systems were different. The watch with greater frictional dual vibrating of each hairspring to a balance. The hairsprings losses needed more compensation from the hairspring to are simply cut at the predetermined locations to the same speed up short arcs; the hairspring had to be pinned on the length, colleted, and studded. After that, they are vibrated radius of the regulator pins. This is the side of the hairspring to a master balance to determine how fast or slow they are for which expands and contracts the least. Watches requiring that balance. They are then grouped into twenty categories pinning closer to the half-way point between the two extreme according to predetermined standards. The balance wheels positions must have been of better quality. For those, the are also sorted into twenty categories according to their compensation needed for the short arcs was not as great so moment of inertia. The pairs are matched in such a way that that when pinned near the half-way point, their performance when the balance-say No. 12-is coupled with the hairspring was satisfactory. No. 12, they will vibrate very close to the required number In the last fifteen or twenty years, watch manu of vibrations per hour. This method of production is possible facturers have been using the knowledge of Caspari Effect in only if the precision of manufacturing of hairsprings and developing new and unique methods for standardizing the fre- balance wheels is very high. Let us examine some of the prob-
W.4TC:ti A.uJUSTMl:~TS by JOSEPH RUOOLE, CMW
March 1980/Horological Times 21 ...... • • lems so that we can better appreciate the achievements of .- .- the industry. -• .-• The time of one vibration of the balance can be -• • calculated from the formula T =7r ..J Ys where TI =time of -• .• 1 . - one vibration, 7r =constant (3 .1416 ...), !=moment of inertia -• .• • • of the balance wheel, and S=elastic torque of the hairspring. -• .• The only two possible variables in this formula are the moment -• of inertia and the torque. - The moment of inertia of the balance depends on -• the mass of the balance (M) and the square of the radius of .-• gyration (R2) or I=MR2 . It is imperative that those two -• values, i.e., the mass and the raduis of gyration, be nearly - • constant during production. This is practically impossible. - • We all know how much a very small amount of material such -• • - AMERICAN CLOCKSANDCLOCKMAKERS • as a timing washer affects the time of the balance. In produc -• • - by Carl W. Drepperd • tion, the mass and the radius of gyration vary considerably. - • Fortunately, however, when a large quantity of balance - An engrossing book dealing with American • - • wheels is tested for moment of inertia, and the two parameters -• clocks and their makers. Beginning with the • - • {the moment of inertia and the number of balances) are - first clocks brought to this country by the - colonists, the history covers the growth of tabulated on a graph, a so-called normal curve of distribution - clockmaking from the early artisans, who is obtained as shown in Figure 2. The manufacturers tell -• hand produced a few clocks at a time, to the us that if we would use identical hairsprings with exactly the - modern mass produced clock. The book has same torque, the pinning point would be moved around for - many drawings and photographs plus a 7,000 80° between the extremely light and extremely heavy -• word glossary and an alphabetical listing of the balances. This would happen because we would have to ad most important American clockmakers. -• just the length of the hairspring to compensate for variations • This book is out of print, so when the present in moments of inertia . -• stock is gone there will be no more. Order When the hairsprings are tested for variations in - your copy now. torque, the same kind of normal distribution curve is obtained -• Hard cover; 312 pages plus 52 page but with certain limitations. It must be understood that -• • supplement . hairspring manufacturing presents some very specific problems. - 059012 ...... $10.00 The elastic torque of the hairspring depends on a number of -• factors such as the type of the alloy used, hardening and -• tempering processes, length, width, and thickness of the - • hairspring, etc. The thickness alone presents a considerable - challenge to the manufacturers. For a variation of±O.l mm - { 1 mm) in thickness, the torque changes so much - 10.000 -• that the hairspring would have to be made shorter or longer - for one-half of the outside coil in order to vibrate with the -• same frequency. The normal distribution of hairsprings ac -• cording to torque values is relatively constant within a given - production series, but varies considerably between any two - series so that it is necessary to pay strict attention to quality - control. Close cooperation between the manufacturers of -• components and their clients is very important in this method -• • of production, but the obtained improvements in timekeeping - FLAT FACE PUNCHES are well worth the effort. -• Super new assortment of 8 drive pin punches. In the opening paragraph, I mentioned some prac - 4" long, sizes range from 1/16 to 5/16 - just tices used by watchmakers which are a waste of effort. I wish - right to handle almost any clock job. Assort to elaborate on that point at this time. Occasionally, one - ment comes complete with partioned plastic - receives a repair where the hairspring is badly damaged and has - pouch with snap cover. You'll be glad you - bought one of these. to be replaced. As far as I know, most watchmakers keep - 061136 ...... $13.60 a number of trade-in movements on hand for supply of parts. .-• Among these are often found balance wheels with broken -• staffs but good hairsprings. If the calibers match, we often try to use the hairspring from one balance wheel and apply it to another. Since there are twenty different categories of ; S. rL:fi'6~1nc. i balances and hairsprings, our chances of having two balances : Worldwide Distributors to Horologists : of the same moment of inertia are rather slim. If a quick ! '~S,l/,;tz>/ ! vibrating test does not produce the desired number of vibra : 234 Commerce Place, Greensboro, N. C. 27420, U. S. A. : tions, we are better off replacing the staff on the original -• .• balance wheel and exchanging the complete unit. That way ...... • ~• we can save ourselves a lot of time and aggravation. 'iKJJ3
22 Horological Times/March 1980 Bench Tips/ Joe Crooks
Pet Bench Tips
Watchmakers from all over the U.S.A. and Canada have sent in pet bench tips on three recurring themes: ( 1) How to hold a bevel-headed jewel screw when cutting it; (2) How to alter wooden clothes pins for watchmaking or jewelry repair, (3) How to curve spring bars. This month, I will consolidate what must be all possible ideas on these subjects.
How to hold a bevel-headed jewel screw to cut down the length: Most of the jewel screw tips went like this: Drill different sized holes in the top of a material can. (All sizes and shapes were mentioned.) With the lid of the can down, insert the screw inside out. Position the bottom of the bottom por tion of the can into the lid to hold the screw head firmly. Grind away the excess threads that protrude from the lid. Draw the temper from a thin razor blade, make different sized holes to insert the jewel screws, press some flat object on the screw head, and grind away. CAUTION: Round off the sharp edge of the blade so you don't cut yourself!
Variations on this included making holes in all kinds of things. However, not any of these tips explained how to remove the burrs from the end of the thread.
I've been guilty of cutting down the length of jewel screws in an old die plate thinned down on the flat side. Tum the screw in from the beveled side of the die plate, cut it to size, polish the end, and the die plate will clean up the threads when the screw is removed.
Methods of altering wooden clothes pins for watchmaking or jewelry repair: I have received clothes pins altered in every conceivable way: Holes drilled here and there; one side turned over; both sides turned over; ends pointed; one side or both sides hollowed out; V slot cut in one tip; and on and on.
I did get a new idea on the use of clothes pins at one of Bob Nelson's electronic seminars: Drill a hole through the business end of both sides and press in a flat-headed copper rivet from the inside out. Solder insulated leads to the outside of the n·vets. Insert a power cell in the clothes pin, and you can test electronic watches to see if they work properly. This is also used to check micro amps drain when leads are used through the multimeter.
How to curve spring bars: 98% of these tips went like this: Place spring bar in a teaspoon m GOULD COMPANY 13750 Neutron Road • Dallas, Texas 75234 and mash with another teaspoon (stainless steel preferred). The Zebra Spring Bar Company furnishes an assortment of CALL Nationwide . Texas only (Continued on page 64) TOLL-FREE! 800-527-4722 800-492-4104
March 1980/Horological Times 23 Scholastically Speaking /Joseph Rugole
M. BERESH INCORPORATED SINCE 1947 Wholesale Jewelry and Watchmakers Supplies A complete selection of parts for watchmakers, clockmakers, and jewelers San Francisco Site Joseph R ugole A major supplier nce again it is time to talk about the REC annual meeting of watch batteries by O and the technical seminars organized for that occasion. I am certain that the forthcoming information will surprise many-hopefully in a positive way. This year the annual meeting will be held in the San Francisco area on June 24, ~ 25, and 26. ~ The AWi directors voted to hold their 1980 annual meeting in San Francisco. The REC had a choice to either hold the meetings and seminars in Cincinnati or to follow the "Ever fresh" due to our rapid in-stock turnover. directors to San Francisco. The directors of REC were con We feature a complete line of EVEREADY sulted by phone. We all agreed that Cincinnati is perhaps watch cells - the cells of quality, reliability the most central location, accessible to most people without difficulty, but it was felt that much would be lost by separating and performance. Send for our free the two events. Many members of REC also attend the Affiliate EVEREADY interchange manual today! Chapters meetings and the directors meetings. For those who do, it would be too expensive to attend the REC meeting in Cincinnati and then travel to San Francisco. We feel that by moving wjth the A WI directors to wherever their meetings WATCH are held, we will be able to stay in closer touch with the most current affairs of AWI and the most current develop BATTERY ments in the industry. We hope that the somewhat greater cost of travel for some REC members will be reduced by making the meetings TESTER shorter by one day. As the plans become finalized and the agenda established, the member schools will be individually contacted. See you all in San Francisco! •Tests either silver or mercury cells with Tempus Fugit li:[JJ3 adjustable voltage control. • Individual power leads allow easy testing of Education ... most cells within watch. All orders shipped same day as received On January 27, 1980 a very successful workshop on the throughout the U.S.A. and Canada. quartz Combo 900.911 alarm was given by Francois Giradet of WOSIC at Spokane Community College, Spokane, Washington. No orders too large or small. Total attendance was 50 watchmakers from surrounding states.
M. Beresh Inc. 21700 Greenfield, Suite 353
Qak Park, Michigan 48237 Thomas Imai (left) with Phone (313) 968-2930 Francois Giradet of WOSIC (right) at Spokane Community College
24 Horological Times/March 1980 for all Y-Dur ------01 GITAL WATCH service needs
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QUARTZ TIMER The fastest and most sensitive, one reading EQUIP A COMPLET E QUARTZ per second, no contact necessary. Times all digital and analog watches in or out of case. WATCH SERVICE CENTER FOR 32768Hz or 786432Hz. Model 1000 - $995. LESS THAN $2,500. Includes analog sensor. (Remote sensor avail.)
For further information regarding Digital Watch Services, equipment, parts, training course, or placing order, write or call ZANTECH, INC. ~ ••• ~ /1., ~. •. • Thank You, CiJ ~- U CJ~ · · President ZANTECH INC.· 13 GREENTREE ROAO. TRENTON, NEW .JERSEY 0SS1B. SOB SSS -seas
March 1980/Horological Times 25 Solid State Terms/Louis A. Zanoni
Part I @LouisA.Zanoni,1980
Louis A. Zanoni
Although we are now in the age of electronic c r-\. horology, the terms used to describe the various Capacitor An electric element consisting of two con parts of the electronic watch are foreign to many ductive plates separated by an insulator (dielectric). It alternately stores electric watchmakers. charge on its plates, first on one side and Therefore, in preparation of the second then on the other. It is a resistor to DC edition of the Digital Watch Repair Manual, I have voltage and a conductor to AC. assembled a list of terms and phrases most commonly used to describe the various parts of a quartz watch. Case (watch) The watch case is the housing which contains the module or movement. Since some of the words can have very complex mathematical meanings, in the interest of simplicity, Caseback The metal or plastic cover on the back of a watch. I have limited myself to only those definitions that pertain to the quartz watch. Cell A single unit of a battery containing elec I trust that a better understanding of the trodes and an electrolyte which converts electronic terms will be helpful when reading the chemical into electric energy. One cell gener many articles on modern watchmaking that appear in ates approximately 1.5 volts. the various trade journals. Cement A substance that hardens to act as an ad hesive.
Chip Cap Small capacitor-the type used in quartz Circuit watches. The wiring means to interconnect A electrical components. A.C. Abbreviation for Alternating Current. Also used to denote alternating voltage. Command The contact point on a module that connects Switch to the IC. When a voltage is applied to the Ambient Light The light that exists around us-either natural switch, usually through the command button or artificial. of the case, the module reacts to a prearranged command program within the IC. The com Amps. An abbreviation for amperes. An ampere mand program allows the watch user to dis is a measure of current flow. If a one ohm play the time or date or any other functions resistor is connected to a one volt supply, which are available on the watch. one ampere of current will flow. 1 volt Conductance The opposite of resistance-conductance is 1ohm= 1 amp. the measure of a material's ability to con duct electric current. Analog A printed dial which uses a pointer to indi Conductive That which allows current to flow. Copper cate a value on the dial, such as a voltmeter is conductive. dial or a watch face. Conductive An epoxy which contains enough metal Epoxy particles to form an electrical current path through it when the epoxy has cured. B Back Light A means of lighting an LCD display from Contact Rails See "Zebra Connector" behind so that the display can be seen at night. Cycles Repetitive patterns-as in voltage, a repetitive pattern of alternating voltage from plus to Back light The current required to light the back light. minus and back to plus again and again. current
Battery A device which contains one or more cells for generating an electric current by a chem ical reaction. One battery cell generates approximately 1.5 volts. Batteries can be made up of many cells. However, most watch batteries consist of only one cell. Continued next month
26 Horological Times/March 1980 You could be selfing Maxell batteries right now.
Some of the world's most respected makers customers with an extensive line of high quality of calculators and fine watch instruments and precision manufactured battery products. factory-install Maxell Silver Oxide Batteries. It's obvious, Maxell should be the Because they can't risk a battery failure which replacement battery line you feature for all could damage their product. And electronic applications. After all, we their reputation. have your reputation to protect Maxel I knows that the key to as well . your Battery Replacement Business Maxel I Corporation of America is personally servicing the needs of your 60 Oxford Drive, Moonachie, New Jersey 0707 4
...... ••••••••••••••••••••• •••••••••••••••••••••
BATTERY PRODUCTS DIVISION
March 1980/Horological Times 27 Figure 1
he French call a mainspring a T "ressort moteur" which translates into "spring motor." This seems so much A more descriptive than "mainspring." It is the motor or driving force that enables us to have a portable watch or clock. This is, of course, exclusive of the battery MODICUM powered pieces which are a much later development. Where was the mainspring de veloped, by whom, and when? These are OF questions that have intrigued horological researchers for years. The usually accepted tale takes us back to Nuremberg and a MAINSPRINGS locksmith named Peter Henlein ( 1480- 1542). The time is generally given as about I 500. Peter Henlein has several variations in the spelling of his name and is often described as being either a clockmaker or a locksmith. The guild By that Henlein belonged to was the Lock smiths', and it was not until 1565 that Otto a separate craft or guild for the small clockmaker/watchmaker was established. Benesh As time progressed, the various compo nents of watches and clocks fell into the hands of specialists; such as case makers, hand piercers, clockmakers, engravers, and spring makers. An old print of a spring maker's shop is shown in Figure 1. Notice that some of the tools are similar to those in use today. The hand vise , the spring winder, and the bench vise have not undergone any great changes. The round
~ Horologipal Ti'm s/Mdrclr J 980 ''l'LCltli t.lti~TTE~ ••©1980
b1 1 Otto Benesh, CMC · (All rights reserved by the author) tool with the long handle was intended scratched the French word "entaille" The two pairs of gloves shown for hardening and tempering the partly which is translated as "notched." In in Figure 6 seem like an odd bit of coiled springs. Today, modern methods addition, he dated the work (1834) equipment for working with mainsprings, and equipment allow the steel to be and signed his name. This spring operates but they can be indispensable once you processed in sheets. With modern slitting the clock with complete success. Note start using them. The dirty pair is used equipment, the tempered steel is cut that neither spring is set to the point when removing springs from barrels and to the desired width and then wound into that it will not provide adequate power. will do much to prevent cutting your coils. We read and hear a good deal Good work cannot be done hands. The clean pair is obviously for about the condition of mainsprings without good tools properly maintained, inserting springs as well as for eliminating with regard to smoothness and other and in the case of clock mainsprings, fingerprints. They are helpful in con factors; so for your consideration, Figures we might add that without proper tools trolling any slippage of the spring. When 2 and 3 are presented. Figure 2 is a spring safety cannot be assured. A two-inch they become oily or dirty, they are easily from a clock dated circa 1 725, and the mainspring flying about the shop is as cleaned with benzol or trichlorethylene. rough surface is obvious. This spring was bad as a saber swishing through the air. It should be mentioned that the gloves undoubtedly made in a shop similar to Most problems occur during removal and are the soft deer/elk skin type that the one pictured. The coil riding over insertion into barrels, as well as in trying workmen use and are widely available. the top of the spring is only for photo to handle loop-end springs without a Figure 7 shows a pair of pliers graphic purposes. This spring is original mainspring clamp. Figure 4 shows two I designed in order to be able to straighten and still provides adequate power for the types of !et-down keys, one expensive the inner coil of a spring as it fits against clock. and the other quite reasonably priced. the arbor. Convex and concave pieces The spring in Figure 3 is de Let-down keys are a must in any shop. are silver soldered on a pair of needle liberately pulled out of shape for photo The winder/inserted in Figure 5 is useful, nose pliers. The add-ons should be short graphic purposes. Note the deep notch; especially in the larger sizes where it enough to contact half the width of the this was done by the spring maker who provides an excellent margin of safety. spring or less. These pliers will enable
Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure4
Figure 5 Figure 6 Figure 7
Mort/1 J980 /lJqy.ologii:al Times 29 Figure 8 Figure 9 Figure 10 you to straighten the inner coil while boxes. The end of the spring should be the spring remains in the barrel. annealed before performing this operation. All mainsprings should have the Holding the spring in a large pair of holes checked for splitting and cracking. pliers similar to the pair shown in Figure Never overhaul a clock without removing 13, heat about two or three inches of the the spring. The best tool I have found spring red hot and then cool slowly to for making new holes in springs is the one anneal. When this has been done, the shown in Figure 8. The name on the box end can be rounded with a pair of tin is Whitney-Jensen and any good hardwan snips. The final step is to square the store or machinists' tool supply house hooking edge of the hole. A square file should be able to order this for you if as shown in Figure 10 will do this in a it is not in stock. The tool has dies for short time. A bit of a bevel helps hold cutting seven different size holes. The the spring against the barrel hook. close-up in Figure 9 shows the hole being punched. With the action of the A friend of mine has developed compound leverage, this tool will go a way of removing springs from barrels Figure 11 through any clock spring with ease-even that you might like to try. A pair of those as large as the ones for music right angle, needle-nose pliers as shown
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Watts Line: 800-392-7741 All Others: 800-325-7090-91 30 Horological Times/March 1980 Return this coupon cUrectly tO: Bulova Material Sales, Dept. HT-380 75-20 Astoria Boulevard Jackson Heights, N.Y 11370 or forward to your authorized Bulova Material Sales distributor. Inside every Supplement is a coupon Send me _ ____ .- .-ABC CASE PARTS CATALOG no . copies good for huge savings on Accutron SUPPLEMENT #1 at $5.95 each. parts ... plus assorted other items. Name ______~ Spend just $5.95 now, and save $20! $30! $50! or more! Firm ______But quantities are limited. Address ______Order now! City ______State ___ Zip _ _ _ My jobber is.______Time for the Best in Time ... I BATTERY OPERATED KI E N Z LE QUARTZ ACCURATE I CLOCK MOVEMENTS For Wall, Mantle and Desk Clocks KIENZLE CHRONOQUARTZ Figure 12 Figure 13 Accurate self-starting movement operates on a single "C" battery. 4, 194,300 vibra tions per second. Has metal sweep hand, in Figure 11 is required. The tips of this pair have been ground backhand setting, removable metal hanger. down, but this is not necessary. The operation is shown in Furnished with all fittings, including rub ber washer, metal washer, brass centerfix Figure 12. The spring is wound up against the arbor and nut or hex nut and brass minute hand nut. Has standard Ameri the pliers are inserted to grasp the spring near the outer hole can shaft available in v2~ . %", J/;,'' and%" lengths. Available also end, spanning two or three coils. Compress the pliers and as 24 hour movement; as day/date movement with 51/s'' day/ date disk; also with bell on top, one strike on the hour, no lift out the spring, leaving sufficient room to unhook the sweep, 3/4" shaft. Size of movements: 2%• x 2%" x 1Vs''. spring from the barrel hook. Note that the barrel is held in the vise with a piece of leather which prevents slipping and scarring. I find that as I get older, I get fatter, so there is Complete Fit-Up Movements always a supply of leather from my old belts. Before we leave Ready-to-insert round movements, the subject of removal of springs, let us not forget the old 23/a" movement diameter and 1s 1a" deep, complete with brass bezel, fashioned way. Figure 13 shows this using a large pair of brass dial, hands and glass crystal. needle-nose pliers and the dirty removal glove. The pliers will Available in 3", 33/a" give you control of the spring. A couple of coils are pulled _,." and 4" dial diame ters. Movements out to start the spring, and by moving the pliers along to new only, 23/a'' diam eter, 15/a " deep, 7 available with / 16" and 5/a" shafts. Win CITY SUPPL KIENZLE Serving the industry since 19 21 PENDULUM LARGE STOCK OF OLD AMERICAN AND MOVEMENTS DISCONTINUED SWISS PARTS With or without bell; no sweep; 3/4" or 7/a'' shaft. Size: 43/16" x 27/a'' x 1W'. 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Immediate delivery on all items. •Quarterly Enrollment Dates • Financial Aid Available to Eligible Students Horology or Jewelery Technology For technical information and catalogs, call or write •State and Federal Approved for Handicapped can lead to an Associate Degree from Paris •Single or Married Student Housing Available Junior College and/or to a Bachelors KIENZLE TIME CORP., INC. •Courses Approved for Veteran's Training Degree at several participating Universities. 3334 Commercial Avenue, Northbrook, IL 60062 Write for More Information Phones: 312/564-1707 Telex: 72-4461 PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE KIENZLE-Associated with Time Since 1822 Division of HorologY, Jewelry, Technology, and Gemology Paris, Texas 75460 32 Horological Times/March 1980 0 There I~ a VIGOR Polisher-Grinder-Dust Collector To Suit Your Needs Figure 14 Figure 15 gripping points and using the gloved fingers as a brake, the spring can be eased out with minimum distortion and without running away from you. This brings us to the point of putting the spring back in the barrel. At this point, I was going to discuss a method of figuring the size of spring needed to replace one that is missing or of the wrong size, but with the tables in the DOUBLE SPINDLE catalogs, this is hardly worthwhile. All one has to do is measure • 1/2 HP-3450 RPM the barrel diameter, the height (width) of the barrel, and order. The POWERHOUSE So let's get on with replacing the cleaned spring-and, I must • Measures:331/4"x21 1/4" x 103/4" repeat-cleaned spring. I have seen springs that, when they • Complete with spindles were removed from the barrel, looked as if they had been DC-2000 $230.00 treated with green cheese and smelled pretty badly, too. The first method is to use a tool such as that shown in Figure 5, (Continued on page 64) FOR WATCH MATERIALS TOOLS FINDINGS CASTING SUPPLIES • 1/3 HP - 3450 RPM The "ECONOMY MODEL" • Measures:201/4"x 171/4"x12" • Complete with spindles CALL US! 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WA 98101 - 206/682-6158 March 1980/Horological Times 35 he Hamilton No. 3635 shown in Figure 1 represents what was almost an entirely new horological industry T in America. Because of the tremendous demand for ships' chronometers to outfit the expanding American Navy, Yankee ingenuity was pitted against the awesome task of developing a timekeeper that was very accurate and could be mass produced. This Hamilton is conventional in appearance, but a detailed examination reveals that every MORE part is interchangeable and that there are many innovations, particularly in the balance and hairspring assembly. The MARINE performance obtained from the use of a solid balance wheel and Elinvar hairspring was truly a remarkable achievement. CHRONOMETERS A later refinement was replacing the cork wedges with a locking arm fitted over a timing weight to lock the balance when the instrument was being transported. This instrument By has been fitted with a U-shaped spring locking device. James Hatton of London was apprenticed to George Marvin E. Whitney Margetts, one of the earlier chronometer makers who also constructed some very fine, complicated astronomical watches. The James Hatton No. 349, Circa 1810, can be seen in Figure 2. This is a rare, eight-day chronometer with a segmented "up-and-down" winding indicator. The move ment has the Earnshaw type of spring detent escapement and compensating balance with square block weights and a Figure 1. Movement of Hamilton No. 3635. (Courtesy of Asprey and Company, London.) 36 Horological Times/March 1980 five-coiled steel helical hairspring. Slots are cut in the barrel cap revealing the mainspring. Jose R. Losada was a Spaniard who came to London in 1835 and set up his business near Euston Road and later on at 105 Regent Street. He was a very fine craftsman whose chronometers were of the highest caliber and were sold primarily to Spain and South America. J. R. Losada, No. 3955 as shown in Figure 3, is an eight-day chronometer of three-quarter construction. This movement has an Earnshaw type of spring detent escapement, a com pensating balance with round weights, and a steel helical hairspring. Losada was also one of several makers who ques tioned the rational of winding the chronometer with a key through the bottom of the bowl and subsequently designed a winding mechanism that projected through the side of the bowl. The Henri Motel, circa 1820, shown in Figure 4, is a very fine French two-day chronometer. The movement is fitted with Motel's pivoted detent. The escape wheel is unusual in that he drilled small oil-retaining holes in each of the teeth. It has a four-arm bi-metallic compensating balance with a blued conical hairspring. It is wound through a front winding aperture and is fitted into a plain mahogany box Figure 2. Movement of James Hatton No. 349. (Courtesy of with a sliding lid. Motel was an eminent chronometer maker Asprey and Company, London.) who also constructed some very excellent observatory clocks. The rates of his chronometers were also very excellent and they were beautifully constructed. Motel also designed a balance-locking device. The pivoted detent and conical hair spring are all typical features of Motel's chronometers. All of the above instruments were exhibited in either the '72 or '79 Exhibition of Marine Chronometers by Asprey. A No-Number by John Arnold, circa 1772-73, is shown in Figure 5. This chronometer is in the Chamberlain collection on display at the Mariners Museum, Newport News,· Virginia. It was purchased by Chamberlain in 1923 while he was in this country to speak before the Horological Institute of America-the institute which in 1960 merged with the United Horological Association of America to become known as the American Watchmakers Institute. This instrument is either one of Arnold's very first pieces or else an experi mental piece (more likely the latter) since it is fitted with his double "S" type of compensating balance and see-saw pivoted detent escapement, which was invented in 1772. This chronometer is rather crudely finished, while all of the Arnolds that I have seen were very nicely finished. Other Figure 3. Movement of Jose A. Losada No. 3955. (Courtesy of conditions which lead one to believe that this was an experi Asprey and Company, London.) mental model are that his name appears only on the dial, and the barrel is planted in such a position that it protrudes out OUR THANKS TO .. . beyond the plates. See Figure 6. The bi-metallic double "S" balance appears to have never been polished. Also, the Asprey & Company, Ltd., of London, England. four timing weights protrude beyond the rim, suggesting that this is one of Arnold's early models. All photos from the February installment of "The Ship's The oversprung hairspring has only three and a frac Chronometer," and many from this installment, are tion coils and only the lower end has a terminal curve. The courtesy of Asprey & Company. We regret that credit upper end is clamped in a slotted foot clamp which is attached was omitted last month. to a pointer, affixed to the balance bridge and having the March 1980/Horological Times 37 Figure 4. Movement of Henri Motel Figure 5. John Arnold. No Number. Figure 6. Arnold's No Number with No. 215. (Courtesy of Asprey and (Courtesy of The Mariners Museum of his double "$" type of compensating Company, London.) Newport News, Virginia.) balance. Note how the barrel protrudes out beyond the plates. (Courtesy of the Mariners Museum of Newport News, Virginia.) appearance of a regulator. However, its function is not like but also engraved on the back plate, it is highly unlikely that that of a watch regulator since it does not alter the acting it was stamped there by Arnold. length of the hairspring. Instead, it is used to either raise The movement of the massive chronometer shown in or lower or center the coils. See Figure 7. In effect, being able Figure 9 is mounted on a brass swivel stand and covered by a to manipulate the position of the coils permits the balance clear plastic box-like cover. The name, Cummins, London, to "float." The balance staff is fitted in jewels with diamond without a number, appears on the dial which measures 21.5 cm cap jewels. in diameter. There are two dial rings-the upper dial showing the hours and minutes, and the lower one the seconds. It is The escapement has a see-saw type of pivoted detent wound through the front of the dial with a crank-type of key. and is unlike any other in that it has a "C" shaped horn. Just the name, Cummins, does not provide much This acts as a safety device, preventing the premature un information about this chronometer's history. There was a locking of the escapement. Also, there is no potence for the Charles Cummins, a maker of chronometers and very fine escape wheel; however, in all of Arnold's later pivoted detent watches, who had a business at 148 Leadenhall Street, London, escapements, the lower escape wheel pivot is supported by which was later sold to John Fletcher, another of England's a potence. very excellent chronometer makers. Cummins was regarded The fusee has Harrison's type of maintaining power. as a very fine craftsman and his talents were exemplified See Figure 8. The movement is fitted in a 6 1/2 in. x 6 1/2 in., in the design and execution of a rather ingenious fusee stop. x 3 1/2 in. walnut box (without gimbal), and the winding However, in many ways this chronometer resembles is accomplished through a sliding panel at the back. those of John G. Ulrich. Ulrich made a number of very large Several who have examined or seen this chronometer chronometers in partnership with a Joseph Croucher, of suspect that some changes have been made, possibly by Cornhill, between 1828 and 1832. Gould states. that Croucher someone else or by Arnold himself. The hairspring is dis financed this business enterprise and was a heavy loser. torted and rather short. It may well have been broken and This instrument does not have Ulrich's complicated re-pinned. Too, although this chronometer is referred to as escapement which Gould says, "was one of the most com No Number, on the underside of the top plate near the foot plicated that had ever been devised for a marine timekeeper," of the detent, a small "2" is stamped. It is a matter of con nor does it have either of Ulrich's earlier or final form com jecture as to how it got there, but since all of Arnold's other pensating balances. However, the escapement and balance instruments have his name and number not only on the dial, are mounted on a detachable plate-like Ulrich's instruments- At the present time the following Y.. sizes are available: THE AMERICAN PERFIT CRYSTAL NEWS FINAL EDITION PHC 22Yz - 26Yz (11 14- 13 o) Ht. 7 15 Volume 1, Number 1 March 1980 PHC 30 -33Yz (140-14 ) Ht. 7 PHC 38 -40Yz (16 4 -1615) Ht. 7 GOOD NEWS! PHC 44 -47% (1715-1815 ) Ht. 7 PHC - THE UNBREAKABLE REPLACEMENT PHC 48 - 50Yz {19 1 -1912) Ht. 5 CRYSTAL FOR GLASS GENEVAS .... Total 70 sizes. ASSORTMENTS AV Al LAB LE: American Perfit Crystal Corp., in cooperation with STELLA N.V. of PHC - 1 Y.. dz. each size, 36 sizes ...... $ 92.00 Holland introduced the new PHC crystal to watch material wholesalers PHC - 3 Y.. dz. each size, 70 sizes ...... $175.00 from coast to coast last year. .. The popularity of the Hunting Case Refills ...... $12.00/dz. watch has increased the demand for replacement Geneva style crystals. Each assortment - in a labeled container for the entire line plus a Since glass Geneva crystals are no longer being manufactured, the PHC conversion chart for the ligne to the American system. was introduced. The PH C has been designed to conform to the size, ORDER FROM YOUR shape and height of the glass crystal. Today there are 70 sizes available, to accomodate the most popular sizes needed. WATCH MATERIAL SUPPLIER American Perfit Crystal Corp., 653 Eleventh Ave., NYC, NY 10036 38 Horological Times/March 1980 Figure 7 . Arnold's No Number. Note Figure B. Arnold' s No Number. This Figure 9. Massive Chronometer, No how short and distorted the hairspring view shows that the maintaining power Number, Cummins, London. Dial mea appears. (Courtesy of the Mariners is of the Harrison type. (Courtesy of sures 21 .5 cm in diameter. Circa 1840. Museum of Newport News, Virginia) The Mariners Museum, Newport News, (Courtesy of U.S. Naval Observatory, Virginia) Washington, D.C.) and they can be removed without affecting the rest of the movement. The pillars are identical to those of IBrich's as is the remainder of the mechanism. Also , there are several un used holes on the top plate which could have been for the placement of a bridge and bar-like balance which IBrich used as a shock-absorber in his complicated escapement. Since this instrument is very similar to Ulrich's chronometer, it appears to this writer-and to many of the Observatory's chronometer makers-that Cummins converted this instrument or used an IBrich ebauche. I know of only one other huge chronometer like this one, and it is in the chronometer collection of the Mariners Museum, Newport News, Virginia. It is an IBrich and is fitted with his complicated escapement and balance. The Cummins has a bi-metallic balance fitted with two timing weights at each end of the balance arms and six compensating screws, three on each side of the rim. The detent is fitted with Earnshaw's straight-type of detent spring. See Figure 10. The following measurements will give you some idea of its size: The distance between the top plate and pillar plate is 11 cm; the diameter of the barrel is 70 mm and the height is 93 mm; the height of the fusee from the wheel to the top of the stop snail is 76 mm, while the wheel measures 70 mm in diameter. The thickness of the chain is 2.9 mm, Figure 10. Cummins Chronometer, No Number. Bi-metallic balance with two timing weights and six compensating screws. while each of the links measures 12.5 mm in length. The Earnshaw-type spring detent. Balance and escapement are distance between the top plate and the balance bridge is mounted on a detachable top plate. Note the two top plates. 45 mm. See Figure 11. (Courtesy of the U .S . Navel Observatory, Washington, D .C.) This chronometer was purchased from M. Low, (Continued on page 64) Ge1n City College The School with Time For You Choose courses in watch and /or clock repairing, engraving, jew elry-diamond setting or jewelry store management. Great Career Opportunities Be A Professional 607 S. HILL ST. - SUITE 820 Work Anywhere Craftsman LOS ANGELES, CALIF. 90014 New classes begin every Monday throughout the year. (213i 626-1471 Placement service for graduates. Write for Free Bulletin GEM CITY COLLEGE KANSAS CITY SCHOOL SCHOOL OF HOROLOG\ OF WATCHMAKING Quinq·, Illinois 62301 4528 Main Strt:t: t (217) 222-039 1 Kama!. City, Missouri 6411 I (816) 931-5522 March 1980/Horological Times 39 Figure 2 Figure 1 Figure 3 . TRUMPETER F igure 4 AND PIPE ORGAN CLOCKS Although trumpeter clocks were quite similar to music boxes or pipe organs I\ popular during the last half of the with bellows containing 8 or more pipes 19th century, they were not produced and valves controlled by the large drum in great numbers and most were indi with lifting pins (steel pegs). vidually made. Therefore, they tend to Figure 3 is the rear view of the vary in design. clock in Figure 1, and this shows the The example of a trumpeter organ and pipes. A front view of the same clock shown in Figure 1 carries out the clock is seen in Figure 4. You will note Continental Black Forest Cuckoo motif. here the wooden pipes which were It is about 30 inches high, 15 inches generally used; however, in the clock wide, and beautifully carved in intricate in Figure 2, tin conical pipes were used. detail. On the hour and half-hour, the These two clocks were formally double doors open and two Alpine in Hagans' Clock Manor Museum. figures emerge, holding their trumpets. Figure 5 shows a pipe organ The hours are struck and release the floor clock with no animation. The case music section which plays one of from is 8 feet tall, 25 inches wide at the base, 3 to 8 tunes-or the same tune may be and 14 inches thick. The waist, or middle, repeated by the selector attachment. is 17 3/4 inches wide with two carved At the conclusion of the music, the pillars, 19 inches long. trumpeters back into the clock and the The base and waist have middle doors close. panels of cracked mahogany with nice The clock in Figure 2 is dif wooden borders and white holly inlay. ferent in case and design, but the action The rest of the case is solid mahogany. is the same. The hood is 3 2 inches high, 24 inches The time and strike movements wide, and 14 inches deep. There are two in these clocks are conventional, with turned posts on the corners with carvings the movement plates usually made of cast on the curve of the hood which also has brass. Rare and earlier models had wooden white holly inlay as well as glass doors on plates operated with two weights. The the sides. trumpeter or organ music section is The clock has very fine original 40 Horological Times/March 1980 Figure 6 Figure 5 brass hands and a nicely hand-decorated organ plays. It is an 8-day clock. dial. The dial has a German eagle at the Figure 7 shows another pipe top and scenes of shipwrecks in the lower organ floor clock; this one has three corners. animated figures which perform to the music on the hour. This clock was made On the case which holds the organ, there is a small door with the during the first half of the 19th century, names, in German script, of the eight and was constructed on the order of old tunes which the organ plays. sectional clocks, having three movements with 48 pipes in the organ section. It Figure 6 shows the movement is all wood and plays 8 tunes. Weight which is made of wood. The movement for the organ is 100 pounds; for the is run with two weights, 16 pounds strike, 24 pounds; and for the time, each. The organ weight is 32 pounds. 22 pounds. The case is black walnut, Figure 7 The clock strikes the hours, and then the 9 feet tall, and 3 feet wide. ~~ 0 1980 ~~~ CMC, CMW, FBHI March 1980/Horological Times 41 Questions and Answers/ Henry B. Fried A LOOK AT HALLMARKS* Henry B . Fried, CMW, CMC, FBHI QWhere was this watch manufac tured? How old is it? Is this watch case of any value? Ay our mail shows a growing interest in old watches. Each day brings de tailed inquiries and photos (we don't accept actual timepieces for inspection, nor do we appraise them). Some time ago, a fairly compre hensive listing of American watches and their dates appeared in serial form in the publication Jewelers' Circular/Keystone. However, the great majority of older timepieces are English, French, and Swiss. While Baille's Watch and Clockmakers of the World lists most of these makers, the exact year of their manufacture is not listed. However, hallmarks stamped on the inside covers of watch cases often tell much to establish the place, metal lic content and year of make (fig. I). Most of these marks are no larger than an eighth of an inch. This also appl'es to gold and silver objects other than watch cases. Swiss watch cases, of silver and gold, were also hallmarked to denote the percentage of purity. Older French watch makers did not use silver as ex tensively for their cases as did the English or Swiss. Instead, most cases were made of a base metal or copper which was fire-gilt, and applied amalgam of gold and mercury. Then, the mercury was removed by heat. This exempted the case from hallmarking requirements and thus, none ever appear on such cases. One of the most thorough hall marking systems is that of Great Britain. Here there are generally four stampings on silver or gold cases. One is for the initials of the maker whose full name, Figure1 . in most cases, is unknown. The second mark is the Assay office or "Hall" mark. This indicates where the maker lived, since he could not have been far away from the location of the office. A third mark denotes the quality of the metal; the fourth, the date letter. This latter mark is actually a series of letters. from a certain style of alphabet. Each different style alphabet stands for a different year series, thus denoting (Continued on page 44) • Reprinted with permission of "Jewelers' Circular Keystone," July, 1976 42 Horological Times/March 1980 FREEi Si .Jhtrel GROUP We offer the best batteries, the best system and the best prices. 6-Watch Batteries FREE LIMITED OFFER MINI-SYSTEM stocks up to 54 ORDER TODAY Six-Paks, fits in Bench Drawer. Just for ordering the Six-Pak System, Today! That's ri9.b.!.l Borel will give a Free Six-Pak, #392 cells, to the first one hundred phone orders received for the Six-Pak Sys SIX-PAK WATCH BATIERY SYSTEM. tem. Your choice of trays- with order of 120 cells (20 SIX-PAKS) Borel wants you to try the System. We want you to enjoy the extra profit you can earn with the System. The Six-Pak System makes it possible for you to replace more watch batteries in less time .. . at lower cost. The Six-Pak is easy to use. Slide open, remove one or more cells, slide closed, return Six-Pak to stock. 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Be Tray Free with 20 Six-Pak order among t he first to get a Free Six-Pak. - 1·800·821·5686 FREE In Missouri 1-800-892-5818 \(ii BOREL GROUP 1110 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, Mo. 64106 Order Today! .Jlnrel Seven warehouses to serve you ~ GROUP KANSAS CI TY MIAMI OAK LAND SAN FRANCISCO I Order20 S1x-Pakstoday, and we wil l give you LOS ANGELES CLEVELAND PITTSGU RGH NE W YO RK FR EE • six #392 cells, l1m 1ted to first 100 orders. March 1980/Horologica/ Times 43 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS case Roman letter a, with the remainder for sterling. From 1701 to 1725, 25 (Continued from page 42) of the alphabet using shields shown for letters of Roman boldface capitals were the a or the c. In 183 6, the bolder old used in frames, of which two styles English A started that cycle with a variant are shown. In 1726, the alphabet used the year in which the object was assayed shield as shown by the date letter R in capital script letters. and often, the age of the soon-after the same series. In 17 51, the Roman lowercase fitted movement. In 1856, the frame used with the alphabet was used in a variety of frames, A key to most British watch case lowercase old English a was also used some as shown with the letters Q and R. hallmarks is given here. This should help for the rest of the alphabet up to and For the remainder of the alphabet, capitals establish the country and town, as well including the letter u. In 18 7 6, the were used in this series. In 1776, a repe as the exact year. Roman uppercase A in a cut-corner tition of the lowercase Roman letters Old hallmarking punches were cut square box started that cycle, but the was used until the series ended in 1796 by hand, thus some variance is to be remainder of the alphabet was framed with the letter v. The remainder of the expected. However, the symbols shown as shown for the letter U. alphabet was omitted. In 1797, the 1701 here are as close as possible to those found style of letter and cycle was repeated in typical cases. The date letter types Birmingham with the exception that in this series, given are only those beginning the yearly While London hallmarks are on the sharp, square frames were used. cycles, or those whose styles or enclosing majority of older watch cases, those From 1818, again, the same cycle frames are different from others in the with Birmingham stampings are also was repeated, but in 1823, the town same alphabet cycle. fairly numerous. The town assay mark assay mark was an uncrowned leopard's The letter J is omitted from almost was an anchor. When this was framed head. In 1839, old English capitals were all alphabet date letter series. The London in a pointed shield (fig. 3), it meant used until 1864, when lowercase old series omits the letters V, W, X, Y, the object was sterling. When the anchor English letters encased in cut-corner and Z. Because almost all old watches was encased in the rectangular square frames were initiated. This series ended encountered will have been manufactured cornered frame, the object was gold. in 1883 with the letter u. From 1884 between 1700 and 1900, only the appro The lion passant, if present, also to 1900, a bold-faced Roman capital priate alphabet series will be shown here denoted silver content. Like the London letter series was repeated. However, in this short article. series, a crown was used to designate almost all Chester hallmarked watch gold, with its karat stamped underneath cases encountered will bear the date London in numerical value. Birmingham used letters from 1818 to the late 19th century. The hallmarks for London prior 25 of the alphabet letters, omitting the to 18 23 included a croW"ned leopard's letter J. · Dublin head. After that, the leopard's head Date letters started from l 773 Dublin hallmarks were variant forms was uncrowned. The addition of a lion with the capital Roman boldface letter A of crowned or embellished harps along passant meant the object was silver. with variant shields, as shown for the with the figure of Hibernia (fig. 5). If it was gold, a crown was impressed letters B and C. The same shield used The uppercase Roman alphabet series under the town mark which indicated for Cis continued through to Z. which started in 1773 was repeated in the numerical karat (fig.I). From 1798 until 1823, the lower 1797, but with the cut-corner square The London date letter for 1 716 case Roman letters were encased in the frames instead of the shield-like frames was a Roman boldface capital A with square-cornered, pointed-bottom shield. of the 1773 series. serifs. Thus, the date letter for 1 71 7 In 1824, a form of Old English capitals was B, for 1718, C, and so on. Because was used·in two forms of frames as shown In 1821, the same style alphabet the frames containing certain of these for the year letters 1824, 1825, and was again repeated, but with the oval letters were different in this cycle, the 1848. fran:ie encasing the letters until F. From F, /, L, S, and T are shown separately The year 1849 started an alphabet the letter F on through the remainder with their identifying shields. Other cycle with the Roman capital letter A of the alphabet the frames were variants letters shown indicate the in-between in a cut-corner square frame. This cycle of many designs unlike any of the previous years. ended in 1867 with the letter S. After Dublin series as shown with the letters In 1736, the lowercase boldface wards, the remainder of the alphabet L and Y. Starting in 1846, the lowercase Roman "a" was used in a pointed shield was enclosed in round frames. The old Roman alphabet series was used in a with angled corners; from the letter English lowercase letters that followed variety of frames, and in 18 71, the c, the shield design was as shown. In this series had elliptical frames from the heavy Gothic series was introduced. 1753, the date letter was an "s" shown letter a until the letter q. Letters s, u, in the archaic form of an uncrossed f. v, w, x, y, and z were encased in square Edinburgh In 1756, a less bold form of an old cut corner frames. Edinburgh's hallmarks (fig. 6) in English alphabet began a new cycle. cluded a cluster of three castle towers Some sample date letters, F, L, and and a thistle in a cut-corner rectangular N are shown as well. Chester shield. The script capital A started the The year 1776 began a new date Liverpool, a busy watchmaking and 1730 series. An old English capital series letter cycle with the lowercase Roman exporting center in the nineteenth began in 1755. The Roman capital a in a frame with a rounded bottom. century, had its watch cases assayed at alphabet started the 1780 series which Sometimes, however, it is shown with the Chester marking hall. Until 1778, lasted until 1806. Here, the lowercase the frame used for the remainder of the Chester assay mark was the crowned letter a, Roman-style, was started and this alphabet, as pictures with the 1781 f. leopard's head and a shield enclosing continued until 1832 when the old In 1796, again, the Roman capital A three lions passant, three sheaves of wheat, English letters were again used but in the appeared, sometimes as shown, and some and a sword pointed upwards (fig. 4). shield shown. times with the shield used for the letter In 1779, this mark was simplified to depict just three sheaves of wheat and the E. This shield was also used for all the The 1857 series consisted of bold sword. letters from B to U, inclusive. Gothic letters in oval frames and in The da'te letter alphabet for the The lion passant, like other assay 1882, the lowercase figures of the old cycle beginning in 1816 was the lower- town marks, appears as the symbol English letter series were enclosed in 44 Horological Times/March 1980 oval1903. frames en d"mg with the letter z in Exeter Exeter's hallmark (f ~~~~rs~26 1733 1734' dom seen on w t h s ig. 7) are sel- be considered a c cases and should very rare Th h ~ \glfI are three. castle t owers join· ed allmarks 1738 1738 17153 and a hon guardant w"th. e together, frame. i ma cut-cornered The Roman-sty! . ®®©@ squ_are frame started e hcapital A in a 17Sg 1761 1161& 17S8 ~hile the lowercase Rot e 1797 series, m 1817. In 183 7 th man le~ters began were started Th . e old English capitals ~ lf) @(EJ 1778 1781 1798 1800 1857 when block~rrttuse. lasted until in Figure 3. Birmingham. were used. The la~ er~ m shaped frames with Gothic lett s senes began in 1877 Fin 1882. ers, and ended with ~~ ~" Glasgow Glasgow's hall ~! ~g rampant and a shield ;;rnrk. ~as a lion 1876 189~ tree with a bell hu ontammg a tiered lower tiers, an impal~~ :~~m one of the Figure 2. London. and a bird perched t is on the trunk, - Shown are the I a the top (fig. 8) the 1819 1845 a phabet letterings for "th· ' ' and 1871 · wi its distinctive st ye.I . senes, each Newcastle Three separat usual lion pass t e castle towers, the IJ ~ iJ head (crowned u;~o l~~~ the leopard's after that) mak and uncrowned Figure 4. Chester. Ne~castle (fig. ~) u~ht:e hallmark for senes repeats itse.lf in same alphabet ~®@® cycles. From 1864 to 188 24-year letter letter was used on f 3, the lowercase 1773 l797 1821 1826 ew watch cases. English Cases of Fo reign. Origin Watch cases a d foreign origin can b~ othe~. objects of appearance of th G re~ogmzed by the 00~ will also see mar e othic letter F. you l&31 18441846 1871 which they ent:rs dof the towns through from left to . eh , as shown (fig l 0) . . ng t: Ch t . rrmmgham Ed. b es er, London Figure 5. Dublin. BDublin. , m urgh, Glasgow, and Swiss Hallmarks @~~ Swiss hallmarks of the metal b t tell the quality 181 9 I 845 1871 e heavy cross' uwh· not al ways the age. aboutTh is mere! ich I am often asked words "D Y a patent stamp Th epose " "B · e that also appea; are ;evet" or "Brevete" Figure B. Glasgow. but rather mean " ot names of makers 0 "patented." patent applied for" ; Shown (fig l l) more frequently . are some of the encountered S . - the crescent d wiss marks: an crown h" 1730 1755 1780 d enote silver , w ich the pro fil e of Helveti . for0_.750gold(18k) a, which is ththe ibex.' f or p1 atmum . 0 950 f e squrrrel for 0 585 . me @~~@ the grouse, f . (14k) gold the bear ,f or .800 fine silver 1808 18 3Z 11157 1882 , or 875 il 18311 1882 to 1934 . s ver, from Figure 9. Newcastle. March 1980/·unorological Times 45 the eagle's head, for .950 silver from 1815 to 1881 the bee, for silver until 1883 the chevron, for Neuchatelese silver, .800 fine after 1852 the duck, for .975 silver the lynx, for foreign-made gold watch cases the gentian, for foreign-made silver watch cases the Burmese woman for all export goods with higher values than legal standards. Edinburgh Chester Glasgow Other Sources This article, meant only to be a short, ready reference for the jeweler, collector, and watchmaker, does not Figure 10. British Import Marks. attempt to cover all the many years in which hallmarks have been employed. There are many books, however, !i I~ about hallmarks that go into fine details Chevron Gentian Burmese Grouse with comprehensive listings of hall marks, date letters, and sometimes maker's symbols. Tardy's "Poincons D'Argent," for instance, covers silver ~~Duck Ibex Helvetia Squirrel marks of all countries and the same author's international references for palla dium, platinum, and gold are standard works. Also, Wyler's "Old Silver" (Crown ~~~~n~ Pub.) is a good, large reference for all ~ ©~t;__ . I , .. countries and covers many goldsmiths' ,, _ r.rescent -· ' · marks, makers' initials, trademarks, and ~ and Crown Figure 11. Swiss Marks. date stamps-and, it's reasonably priced. 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E.-Alabama ORANGE, Anthony W.-Tennessee CLAIR, Dorian-California RADCLIFFE, Larry A.-lllinois DEVINE, Elwood J.-Pennsylvania REED, John W.-lllinois DIRKSEN, Otto H.-Minnesota ROBBINS, Roscoe T .-Florida DOCKTER, Cornelius-Connecticut ROTH, Bob-Kansas DUNBAR, John B. Jr.-California SANDERSON, Hubert A.-Kentucky FENNESSY, Sean-Texas SEIDL, Arthur E.-Wisconsin FLOWER, Tim-Pennsylvania SHAFER, Richard E.-lllinois GILBERTSON, Amy- Washington SHIELDS, Cheryl-California HABERMAN, Harry M.-New York SLEEMAN, G. Martin-New York HALTERMAN, W. S. Jr.-California SMITH, Harry J.-New York HENSEL, Karl G.-Florida SMITH, Phillip A.-Wisconsin HINKLE, Walter M.-Colorado SMITH, Robert R.-Pennsylvania HOCHKIRCH, Rudi-British Columbia, Canada STACEY, Donald M.-Massachusetts We Salute HOUSER, Harold R.-lndiana STERRETT, Creig A.-Missouri INGHEM, Gordon-New York SUH, Dong H.-California These New Members! ISAACSON, Clarence W.-California TOM, Edwin W.W.-Hawaii JEFFERY, Theron B.-Texas WARD, Thomas F.-Delaware JOHNSON, Leighton C.-Michigan WILKINSON, James D.-New Jersey JONES, James G.-Mississippi ZERKLE, Howard R.-Georgia ULTRAMATIC- The New Incredible Automatic Clock And Instrument Cleaning Machine powered by Zeniths new ZXIOOO Ultrasonic Power System. Replaces one generator - 3 activatet tanks - 1 dryer. Let the future serve you AUTOMATICALLY. In computer-like sequences, the clean ing solutions AUTOMATICALLY move through their cleaning cycles in a pre-programmed system that produces absolute cleaning results that haveNEVER BEEN SEEN BEFORE! • Light signals show every phase of the program • Air drying in closed tank, with exhaust • Dirt residues settle at the bottom of the storage containers and can NOT be recirculated • Ultrasonic action in all cleaning cycles (Patent Pending) • Time over-ride for all cleaning phases standard. • Available from 3/4 gallon to 5 gallon MFG. & CHEMOCAL CORP. Zpm tank capacity 90 Herbert Ave., Closter, NJ 07624 Introductory Offer: $1995.00 March 1980/Horological 1Ymes 41 WATCH CASES AND THEIR ACCESSORIES ©1980 Spring Bars and Watch Bands By Archie Perkins ' ardly a day goes by that the watchmaker does not Some of the different styles of spring bars are shown ...... , _ _,....,have to fit a spring bar to a watch case. It is impor in Figure 2. View A shows the regular style spring bar. This tant to know how the spring bar works and to know about style should only be used on cases where the lug holes extend the different styles available. Measuring the case and selecting completely through the lugs, and it is also used on watch the new spring bar is also important. If the spring bar selected strap buckles. When this bar is used on cases where the lug is too short, it could come out of the watch case while the holes do not go all the way through the lugs , it will be very customer is wearing it and the watch could be lost or damaged. difficult to remove. In most cases it would have to be cut out Particular care should be used in selecting a spring with a saw or cutting pliers when it is removed. bar if it is to be used with a leather strap, especially if it View B of Figure 2 shows a double shoulder spring fits tightly into the hole in the strap. If the spring bar is bar. This bar is more adjustable than the regular one and can slightly on the short side and fits tightly in the strap, it is be used on watch cases whether the lug holes are drilled all easier for it to be pulled out of its position between the lugs. A the way through or not. The shoulders on the pins make this good test to make when fitting a spring bar to a case with a bar easy to remove because the tool that is used to remove leather strap is to grasp the strap with the thumb and index the spring bar will have a seat to rest on as the pin is retracted. finger , pressing the strap against the spring bar. While holding Figure 2, View C pictures a double flange spring the strap this way, try to dislodge the spring bar by moving the bar. This bar is also easy to remove and replace but the pins strap back and forth between the lugs. If the spring bar be cannot be pressed in as far as the double shoulder spring comes dislodged, then the next size larger bar should be used. bar; therefore, it is not as adjustable. If a spring bar is selected that is so long that the body or View D of Figure 2 shows a telescopic spring bar. tube of the bar will just barely go between the lugs, it will This bar has maximum adjustability. In fact, this bar can some be difficult to remove when the need arises, especially if the times fit two or three sizes of cases. holes do not go completely through the lugs. Figure 2, View E illustrates an adjustable spring To have a better understanding of the spring bar bar. The idea behind this style of spring bar is that it can be and how it works, refer to the cross section view in Figure 1. made to fit cases of different sizes by sawing the pin off at The tube or body of the spring bar is "a", "b" and "b" are point "a" just behind one of the flanges. Sometimes grooves the pins, and "c" is the spring which extends from the end are cut around the pin between the flanges so that the pin of one pin to the end of the other. This spring holds tension can be broken off at the point needed for the correct length. outward on the two pins. Either one of these pins can be View F of Figure 2 shows one style of female spring pressed in as the bar is inserted into the lugs of the case. bar. This bar is used on cases that have pins protruding from Figure 1 c 48 Horological Times/March 1980 7/16 in., 1/2 in., 9/16 in., 5/8 in., 11/16 in., 3/4 in., 13/ 16 in., and 7 /8 in. An assort ment of midget Bemus-style spring bars can be obtained. This is Bestfit Assortment No. 496, which is a ten-bottle assort ment with ten bars in each bottle. These spring bars are gauged in thousandths of an inch for length of body and length of pin. The body lengths are graduated from 0.202 in. to 0.410 in., and the pin lengths are graduated from 0.031 in. to 0.025 in. These spring bars were mainly used to attach the bands on Bemus Embraceable watches, but they could be used for other band fitting jobs also. The sizes of regular spring bars c are determined by measuring the length of the body of the bar. Sizes of double shoulder and double flanged spring bars are determined by measuring from the end of the body on one end to the shoul der of the pin on the other end. Some times spring bars are adjustable for two sizes; for example, 5/8 to 11/16. The smaller of the two sizes is the measure ment of the body length and the larger size is the distance from one end of the body to the shoulder of the pin on the other end. E To select a spring bar for a case, first measure the distance between the case lugs with an inch ruler as shown in Figure 3. Determine if a male or female spring bar is needed. Then deter mine if the bar needs to be straight or curved by the shape of the hole through the end of the band. Next, determine if the band needs a regular diameter or a thin spring bar. This can be deter mined by trying the regular-diameter bar in the hole in the band. Now deter mine if the bar should be a regular or G double-shoulder style. Note: A double shoulder or double-flange-style spring bar can be used in lugs that are drilled part way or all the way through, but a Figure2 regular-style spring bar should only be used in lugs that are drilled all the way the inside of the lugs for the holes in the made smaller than the diameter of a through. ends of the spring bar to fit over. Both standard spring bar; therefore it is neces To remove and replace spring ends of this bar can be compressed. sary to use a thin spring bar. Also, some bars, a special spring bar tool is needed. View G of Figure 2 shows an times the holes in the lugs are small and This tool can be purchased from your other style of female spring bar. This is require a spring bar with smaller ends local watch material distributor. There called the double flange female spring on the pins. In many cases, thin spring are two different brands. One is No. bar. The holes in the ends of these spring bars are used in adjustable watch bands 315 3 Bergeon spring bar tool and the bars are not as deep as in the previously where space is too limited for regular other is No. 35-365 K & D pin pusher. mentioned female spring bar. diameter spring bars. This tool is double ended. One end is Another style of spring bar (not Spring bars come in the fol flattened like a screw driver blade and illustrated) is the curved style. This spring lowing lengths: 1/4 in., 5/16 in., 3/8 in., a notch is formed in its end to straddle bar is used only on some round style watch cases, when the hole through the end of the band is curved like the shape of the end of the band. Some curved end bands use a straight spring bar because the hole through the end of the band is straight although the end of the band is curved. WATCHES Most of the spring bars that have been mentioned can also be obtained in a by ARCHIE B. PERKINS, CMW thin style. Sometimes, because of lack of (All righu r-rved by the euthorl space, the hole in the watch band has been March 1980/Horological Times 49 Figure 3 Figure 4 Figure 5 the end of the pin on the spring bar one end of the spring bar in the hole require a spring bar, but the width of during removal or insertion. The other in one lug. Then place the notch in the the ends are spring loaded which makes end has a thin, cylindrical point for end of the tool straddling the pin on the them adjustable for case lugs of different removing regular-style spring bars where spring bar. Compress the pin until it will widths. There are still many watch bands the hole goes all the way through the go between the lugs and into the hole on the market that need to be cut down lug. Figure 4 shows one of these spring in the lug. This method can also be used to fit between the lugs of the case. One bar tools that was made from a piece to replace a spring into the buckle of solid end band on the market is designed of blue steel. Figure S shows the tool a watch strap. See Figure 7. The other so it is easy to adjust the width of the being used to remove a double shoulder end of this spring bar tool is used to ends. The ends have grooves cut into spring bar. The tool is inserted between remove spring bars from watch band them certain distances apart. These the strap and the lug of the case, making buckles or case lugs where the hole goes grooves are deep enough that sections sure the notch in the end of the tool completely through the lug. See Figure 8 . can be broken off with a pair of snipe goes straddle of the pin in the spring Another job the watchmaker is nose pliers until the band is the proper bar. Manipulating the tool causes the pin called on to do quite often is the fitting width to fit between the lugs. The band of the spring bar io be backed out of the of a new watch band to the wrist watch . ends at the beginning are 3/4 in . wide. hole in the case lug. Some of the modern watch bands have Then by breaking off one section on each To use the spring bar tool to spring bars built into their ends and side of each end, the band becomes replace a spring bar, see Figure 6. Place are adjustable. Also, some watch bands 11 / 16 in. Now by breaking another DON'T TURN AWAY ORIENT JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL OF WATCHMAKING WATCHES FOR REPAIR. WE CAN Quality Instruction Since 1945 CJ. SUPPLY MOST PARTS FOR ORIENT. 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(214) 984-8531 ~ TM ;~~~" By Milliken /!\'\\\'\ POLISHING CLOTH • Lint free SIZE EACH • Rewashable 10x10 ... · •· ·· ..$2 .50 • Will not scratch metal, glass, plastic 14 x 14 ...... 4.00 SINCE 1877 • Individually wrapped for cleanliness 17 x 14 ··· ······· 4.40 • Used by jewelers, 21x17 .. ···· ···· 6.50 BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL watchmakers, and engravers 21x20 ...... •. 7.00 220 West King Street, Lancaster, Pa. 17603 Offers you the most comprehensive courses in Watchmaking and Repairing Clockmaking and Repairing Jewelry Repairing and Stonesetting Engraving STIRLING. N. 07980 t1l;1sflex J. Send for free brochure C •O RPORATION An Equal Opportunity Facility Order from your material jobber 50 Horological Times/March 1980 Figure 6 Figure 7 Figure 8 section off of each side of each end, the band will be 5/8 in. wide. For an illus tration of this operation, see Figure 9. When the end of the band is not adjustable and must be cut down, this can be done in different ways. One way is to use a jeweler's saw to cut off the excess material from the ends of the band, or if there isn't much material to be removed, it can be filed off. Another method would be to grind the material off on an emery wheel. A few years ago, there was a pair of pliers on the market made especially for cutting the ends of watch bands. A watch band is shown being cut with these pliers in Figure 10. One jaw of the pliers has a Figure 9 Figure 10 round end that fits inside the hole in the Now a complete Cartier Style Assortment USE PRECISION MADE CRYSTALS TO FIT ~l[;lT.QL rr!.QTL~ MOST BEZELS FOR TODA Y'S MOST POPULAR FASHION WATCH. REPAIR CENTER •"CARTIER STYLE"• "TANK" • "ERMEX • "GENEVA"• BLUE OFFER YOUR CUSTOMERS: SAPPHIRE CROWNED WATCHES, ETC. 8 POPULAR SIZES AVAILABLE-REFILLS, * 2 WEEKS TURN-AROUND ONLY$J.20 PER DOZEN * MODULE REPAIR * EFFICIENT SERVICE FOR Order This Set ALL MAKES AND MODELS sue FANCY CYLINDER ASSORTMENT NO. TC-24 2 DOZEN ASSORTED SIZES IN A CONTAINER WITH INDEX CARDS HIGH PROFIT POTENTIAL $14,75 PER SET The BEST a-ROUND THE sue ROCKET INSERTER & REMOVER TOOL NO. 1395 Removes and inserts Round Crys tals from 12.0m/m to size 53 _ .. -· · (46.3m/m) Only $121 ~5 ~---~,.- · ~~ ORDER FROM YOUR SUPPLY HOUSE-·- Mfg. Standard Unbreakable Watch Crystal Co. 123 East 144th St., Bronx, N.Y. 10451 March 1980/Horological Times 51 should be run around the edge of the band end to remove any burrs left by the filing operation. Another serivce that the watch maker is called on to perform is adjusting the length of watch bands to fit the customer's wrist. The shortening and lengthening of watch bands today is much different than it was twenty or thirty years ago. Back then, watch expansion bands came in different lengths. For example, bands could be bought in extra-long, long, regular, short, and extra-short lengths. There was about Figure 11 Figure 12 1/4 in. difference between each size. Although expansion bands could be bought in five different lengths, there end of the band. There is a groove cut Always allow enough material so that was still a need sometimes to remove across this jaw that is shaped to fit the the ends can be smoothed up with a a link or add a link to make the band sharp cutting edge of the other jaw of file. fit correctly. This was, in most cases, the pliers. To use these pliers, place the A good method of holding a a difficult job because the bands were round jaw into the end of the band to band when the ends need to be filed riveted together with two or three hollow the proper depth. Now bring the sharp is shown in Figure I 1. A piece of brass rivets in each link that had to be removed jaw down on the band. Turn the pliers or soft steel rod that will fit closely in when the band was shortened. Then new so a groove will be cut around the end side the band end is fastened securely rivets were made to replace the old ones. of the band at the proper place. Then in the bench vise. The rod should not The trend today is to have a go around this groove and snip off the protrude far enough above the vise jaws section in the band where 2 or 3 links excess material from the end of the to go completely through the end of the can be removed or any number can be band. When reducing the width of the band when it is in position on the rod. added with very little effort. Some of end of the band, equal amounts should Then the end of the band is filed to fit these bands have miniature spring bars be removed from each side of the end. between the lugs of the case. The file attached to one end of the extra links STOP AND THINK ARE YOU HAPPY WIDi YOUR PRESENT SUPPLIER? IF YOU COULD FIND A NEW Support the SUPPLIER THAT WOULD CATER TO YOU-THE WATCH AND WATCH MATERIAL FINDINGS JEWELRY REPAIRMAN-EXCLU AWi - ELM TRUST SIVELY, THAT WILL TRY TO STOCK ANYTHING YOU USE, THAT WILL PROVIDE TOLL-FREE ORDER PHONES AND POSTAGE Scholarship Program PAID ORDER CARDS, THAT WILL CRYSTALS TRULY APPRECIATE YOUR BUSI TOOLS NESS, THAT WILL GIVE YOU FAN by EQUIPMENT TASTIC SERVICE AND SAVE YOU SUPPLIES MONEY IN THE PROCESS, Sending your old WOULD YOU BUY FROM lliEM? BATTERIES IF SO, PLEASE CAIL FOR YOUR NEXT ORDER watch batteries YOU WONT BE DISAPPOINIED to the IN TENNESSEE 800-342-1482 AMERICAN NATIONWIDE 800-251-1406 WATCHMAKERS IF OUR CUSTOMERS ARENT HAPPY. WE DONT DESERVE THEIR BUSINESS INSTITUTE TENNESSEE JEWELERS SUPPLY, INC. 401 CHURCH STREET - NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE 37219 52 Horological Times/March 1980 and the other end has holes to receive the spring bars for connection purposes. Each link is self-contained, ready to connect to the next link. This makes the adjusting of the band length quick and easy. The JB Ladies' Champion Multi-Size is of this design. Another ladies' band that is easy to adjust is the Kestenmade "all size" band. This band has a section where links can be added or removed quickly. The end of one link resembles a snap swivel. There is a small tongue that can be pushed down to open up the hook on the end of the link so the hook can be slipped off of the pin Figure 13 Figure 14 that goes across the next link. To re attach the links, the hook on one link links together. See Figure 13. Go to the is placed around the pin of another link. other end of the link that the clip was Then the small tongue is pressed on removed from and open the end of the its back end which closes up the hook. lower part of the connecting link. Now One gents' band that is very popular the band will slide apart. Then the same is the Speidel Twist-0-Flex. To remove procedure can be used to remove or add or replace links in this band, the following a section. To re-assemble the band, the method is used: First, place the band reverse procedure can be used. To close flat on the bench. Then take a large the ends of the links, use the screwdriver watch screwdriver and open the end of as in Figure 14. UCII3 one link by pressing out and down on the end of the link. See Figure 12. Now turn the band over and open the end of an adjoining link. Then take a tweezer and remove the clip that holds the two March 1980/Horological Times 53 FRENCH 8-DAY CARRIAGE CLOCK Hour and Half-Hour Strike, Repeater, With Alarm (''Corniche'' model, circa 1900) he "Comiche," or "cornice" clock probably Part LIV of Series represents the epitome of modesty in clock cases. These clocks, along with others of the carriage variety, were produced in considerable quantities in the Paris region, in Franche-Comte, By Sean C. "Pat" Monk and in Saint-Nicolas-d'Aliermont. They were pro duced during the latter part of the last century, both before and for a good many years after 1880. Figure 1 shows our particular "Corniche" (cornice) clock which is of the 8-day variety, hour and half-hour strike, equipped with strike repeater mechanism and alarm. This clock is French made, and is dial-marked by the well-known firm of Bailey, Banks & Biddle, Philadelphia. The going train is controlled-via a contrate wheel-by an English-style platform escapement. The platform escapement may be observed in the isometric view (Figure 2) at the top of the mechanism. In Figure 3, the striking mechanism can be viewed from the front. It is on the left and is of the regular rack and gatherer type such as we have previously described. The alarm mechanism is to the right in Figure 3. 'rhe alarm hand itself (which can be seen at the Figure 1 Figure 2 54 Horological Times/March 1980 1980 Essence of Clock Repair © by Sean C. ''Pat'' Monk CMW bottom of Figure 1) is mounted on the arbor of the very similar to that described in our previous article alarm wheel (A of Figure 3). Setting of the alarm is (Part LUI) on the French 8-day, carriage, hour and performed by rotation of the lower setting arbor (0 half-hour strike. Therefore, at this point we shall not of Figure 4) at the rear of the clock. discuss this system again. However, the strike hammer The alarm has an independent mainspring for this mechnaism is shown at G of Figure 4. which is quite small and has a wind arbor which is The repeat mechanism is really quite simple in shown as B of Figure 4. The alarm barrel is geared to operation. A repeater operating button is set on the an escape-type wheel which makes contact with a top of the clock case, towards the front (I of Figures notched steel piece. The latter is frictioned onto an 1 and 2). This button protrudes through the top of arbor (N of Figure 2), carrying the alarm hammer (C the case. When depressed, it presses down upon a of Figure 4) in the rear and, in front, carrying a repeating lever (J of Figure 3). This action rocks a trip spring-loaded trip lever (D of Figure 3). This lever is lever (K) which, in tum, moves against the rack hook locked and unlocked by another lever (E of Figure 3) (L) which unlocks the rack (M), allowing it to drop. which has a steel pin (F) set on one end. The lower As mentioned, the following action is now similar end of this lever rides against the back of the alarm to that previously described when the warning takes wheel (A). This gives the alarm wheel some forward place and the strike train is eventually fully released tension. On the front of the alarm wheel is mounted a and striking occurs. Again, as in our previous descrip steel cam (H) which is slotted and pinned to the tion of the French carriage clock, the number of wheel's arbor. Also, there exists a small pin on the hours struck is dependent upon the position settled front of the alarm wheel which, at the appropriate upon by the rack tail against the hour snail. See P in alarm-set time, will fall into the cam slot. This re Figure 3. The half-hour, rack freeing is also the same leases the trip lever (D), allowing the alarm to strike. as previously described, i.e., the rack is only moved The alarm, having no shut-off, will continue to strike a distance sufficient for one rack tooth to be released until its small spring runs down. This takes about 30 for one single strike. to 40 seconds. Our thanks, once again, to our mechanic Dan The hour and half-hour strike mechanism is Castner for his help in the preparation of this clock. uo:B Figure 3. Front View Figure 4. Rear View J M----_. L---_.• K D F ;-.~~--...;... ___ E 'siiiAil"------H - March 1980/Horologica/ Times 55 Affiliate Chapter Column/ Robert F. Bishop THE "IDEAL" AFFILIATE CHAPTER hat should the ideal Affiliate Chapter be to its members, tours, etc. are all ways to make the member feel that he W to AWI, to our industry, and to the community? The "belongs." following thoughts are strictly my own and I hope that, at The ideal Affiliate Chapter serves more than just the very least, they will proVJ?ke discussion in your group. its members. It has a civic responsibility that can be expressed First and foremost, the ideal chapter is concerned in many ways. It should take a stand on any legislation affecting with the professional interests of its members. Salaries and our profession, and where the need for government involve prices have always varied greatly in our field, as have our ment is demonstrated, it should lead in the efforts to obtain abilities and productivity, but many watchmakers still do not it. The active chapter becomes involved, whether it be in the receive the compensation that their talents and productivity establishment of watchmaking schools or training programs, deserve. While Associations cannot recommend prices or tell service on government advisory boards, or improving the a watchmaker what to charge for his public image of the watchmaker labors, they can and should encourage and jeweler. The non-member watch the timid member to base his prices maker should not be ignored, either. on his right to a decent living for While constant efforts should be made skilled services rendered. The con to obtain his membership, he still cerned chapter can point out to those should have access to your training retailers who insist on marking up programs. The undertrained or in their repair costs three times or more competent person in the trade affects that this policy is self-defeating in all of us. The concerned chapter should the long run. make the effort to upgrade the stan The ideal chapter makes sure dards of all watchmakers. that the latest technical training is The ideal chapter serves the made available to its members. AWI industry by making manufacturers has many fine programs available to aware of problems in the field. An in the Affiliate Chapters at little or no telligent letter from a respected organ cost, but these must be used to be ization can accomplish far more than effective. The talents of your own individual complaints. I believe all man members should also be used to the ufacturers welcome intelligent criticism / maximum. The progressive chapter A obert Bishop and will take steps to correct any prob- does not limit its training to tech lems we find in their product or service. nical subjects. Many-if not most-members are also small The ideal chapter serves AWi in many ways: by businessmen. They may be watchmaker-jewelers or trade supporting their programs, contributing new ideas, criticizing shop operators, and they need training in many related fields, when needed, promoting membership, etc. It is also very such as sales techniques, pensions, insurance, personnel man important that each chapter participate in the Annual Meeting agement, security, and others. in June, present recommendations to the AWI Board, and The effective chapter communicates with its members select delegates early so they will have ample time for pre regularly. This is usually through a newsletter, the content paration. AWI, with its greater strength, can do many things of which is very important. It should encourage the members which smaller state or local groups cannot, and may also to share their knowledge by contributing personal bench duplicate some of your activities on a larger, more effective tips. It should have a strong editorial policy and provide a scale. The efficient chapter works with AWI very closely. platform for expressing members' views. Obviously, there are many more things a good chap The successful chapter does not neglect the social ter can do. Most chapters are already doing many of these life. Fellowship is a valuable asset as it provides a lubricant things. If you, as an individual member, feel your chapter for the exchange of ideas and creates a better spirit of co should be doing more, it is up to you to help make the changes. operation. The aggressive chapter provides frequent social No organization is better than the sum of its members. Be a activities for its members and their families. Picnics, dinners, "plus," not a "minus." liL:ID 56 Horological Times/March 1980 ...from all around the ASSOCIATION ... TEXAS supplement the technical aspects of the The pace has been hectic for members convention. of the Houston Watchmakers Guild during the past month. members present. New officers elected On December 18th the guild for the year were president, R.T. Upchurch; met for its annual Christmas Social. VIRGINIA vice-president, G .L. Pennington; secretary Presents were exchanged and everyone The American Watchmakers Institute and treasurer, Joseph H. Barham; director, enjoyed the chance to visit with old the Horological Association of Virginia W.C. Baldwin; technical director, C. Owen friends and to meet new members. sponsored a bench seminar program Dewar; and Watchmaker of the Year As the new year began to in the Tidewater area on Sunday, March 9, Joseph H. Barham. ' unfold, the guild met on January 16th 1980. This was an all day bench work The Cape Fear Guild met at for its annual installation of officers shop on repair of the LCD watch en the Barbecue Lodge in Fayetteville dinner. Jerry Green, who assumed the titled "Introduction of Solid State o~ January 8th. The dinner meeting, presidency for 1980, outlined an ex Watch Repairing." Robert Nelson, past with 7 members present, ended with panded program of AWI slide and film president of AWI was the instructor. a general discussion after ground work presentations for monthly meetings. The 1980 HA V Convention was laid for the annual auction which is He urged everyone to turn out for the will be on Afton Mountain, Afton, a guild activity. next meeting on February 19th, which Virginia. The dates for this event are included AWI's course by Bob Bishop May 2, 3, and 4, 1980. The HAV 1980 on "Rust and How to Remove It," as convention technical program will have well as a local program. the Portescap US Vibrograph Machine Harold Neill, CMW, director Division present their illustrated lecture, of Houston Technical College, and "The Quartz Watch and Its 'After the a long time stalwart of both the Houston Sale Service.' " The speaker will be Mr. Guild and the Texas Watchmakers As John Hager of Portescap. HAV's own sociation, was presented a Distinguished Paul Fisk, of Charlottesville, will give Service plaque by Dren Duffy and Jenette an illustrated lecture on a very special Bost in recognition of his many years clock he recently engineered and built of service. in his clock shop. Guest speaker, Mr. Fred Burckhardt of Fort Worth, gave an interesting and amusing talk on the On January 19th, Gerald Jaeger future of watchmaking. He left the NORTH CAROLINA held the AWI bench course "Basic Elec audience chuckling, . as well as with The Golden Triad Guild met January 9th tricity & Use of Meters" in Goldsboro something to think about. Door prizes at the Western Steer Family Restaurant with 14 members present. donated by the Stanley Donahue Compa in Kernersville with 46 members present. ny were given away to two lucky winners. Retired Chief of Police, Thower Surratt, Sunday, January 20th, 35 watch of Winston-Salem, was the guest speaker. makers from across the state gathered in He spoke about the "Honesty and In Houston for Bob Nelson's "Introduction tegrity of Elected Officials." FLORIDA to Solid State Watches." Although it The Unifour Guild had 11 mem 1980 is off to a good start with the was nearly sabotaged by lost luggage and bers present at their January meeting. eight guilds meeting monthly and gather equipment, the course was very successful. They elected officers and the Watch ing for the many bench courses and Mr. Nelson, assisted by Lon Squyres and maker of the Year by secret ballot. seminars planned for the year. Ben Conner, managed to complete Results will be announced at a later date. Robert Nelson is first on the list, the course only slightly overtime, with Plans were formulated for the coming having instructed the very important 35 working LCD watches and 35 tired year, including two bench courses for the "Introduction to Solid State Watch but satisfied watchmakers. The Houston Unifour Guild to be presented by the Repairing" in Orlando on February 3rd. Guild deeply appreciated Bob Nelson's Guild. Orlando was the scene also of the Resi effort in coming here and presenting The Coastal Plain Guild met this program. January 15th at Wayne Community dence Course for the repair of solid state Members of the guild are looking College in Goldsboro with 21 members watches held on February 2-7. forward to the TWA/TJA Convention, present. Joe Perkins presented a program On February 24th in Ft. Myers, March 21-23 in Kerrville's Inn of the Hills. on the soldering of gold chains. A Nomi the FSWA was honored to have President At this time, plans include a bench nating Committee was appointed and Les Smith of AWi, along with past course by Bulova's Field Services De plans for the 1980 NCWA State Con presidents Henry Fried and Orville partment, an AWI bench course, and a vention were reviewed. Hagans and FSWA's own Otto Benesh program on the Bestfit Microfiche system. The Triangle Guild met at in an all-day seminar. The lectures per A varied social program, as always,will Rogers Restaurant in Cary with 10 taini;d to clocks, watches, and consumer March 1980/Horological Times 57 row money. Free life insurance on Why The 'A' Seal Waterproof Crown savings accounts and loans is just one of Is Superior To All Other Type Crowns many credit union exclusives. 'A' SEAL NEW JERSEY WATERPROOF Joseph Barbieri of Elmwood Park, NJ, has succeeded Walter G. Riegler as presi CROWNS dent of Watchmakers' Association of New Jersey for 1980. Mr. Barbieri is a young man on his way up in the watch The 'A' Seal Crown is superior to the regular and ·o· Ring. The doughnut business, employed by Bulova Watch Co. shaped washer of the ·o· Ring fits snug, allowing little or no expansion so that as a supervisor in their material sales one crown of the ·o· Ring w ill fit one size only ... whereas the principal of the division. 'A' Seal is a solid rubber oversize gasket, that lays flat inside the crown. As the crown is fitted to t he case neck, the gasket forms an L making a turtle neck seal and closing off the wall to make it watertight. The patented construction of the 'A' Seal is such that it permits the fitting of five different sizes for each crown ... from 2.0 to 2.5 mm inclusive. Superior Quality. The 'A' Seal is a Swiss made crown of 1st quality and used extensively by Swiss manufacturers. Available in stainless and yellow gold filled, it has the new modern cut of fewer knurls for better gripping. Small wonder that the 'A ' Seal has grown to be one of the largest selling crowns in the trade today. Save Twice. It is no longer necessary to stock over 80 or more sizes when 16 numbers of the 'A' Seal will do the same job ... Better! This assortment of 'A' Seal crowns can pay for itself in w eeks, in savings over prices you are now paying for waterproof crowns. Compare With What You Are Now Paying! NEW PRESIDENT of the Watchmakers 1 3 6 12 Association of New Jersey, Joseph $1.50 $3.00 $4.90 $7.90 Barbieri (left), receives the gavel from outgoing president, Walter R iegler. Pay LESS For The BEST Start Saving Today! Order Assortment E2000 Containing Four Dozen SS and YGF Crowns (3 ea. of 16 numbers) Specially Priced at $30.00. Please Send E2000 Assortments. If Not Completely Satisfied, I May Return NEW YORK For Full Credit or Refund. Isidore Liemer Isidore Liemer, an honored member of ADDRESS the Horological Society of New York CrTY ------STATE---- ZIP since the late l 920's, died late last December. Mr. Liemer had held numer· P.O. BOX 43561 ST. PAUL, MN 55164 ous positions in this society as a trustee TOLL FREE 800-328-0205 ~ Esslinger & Cb. MINNESOTA 800-392-0334 and as a member of the executive com ------.... --- ...... ----- ...... ------...... -- ...... ------.. ------.. ---- .. ----- .... -.. .. --- -- ...... -- mittee and the accrediting committee (in the days when a proficiency exam was required for membership). Mr. Liemer, although often nominated for the presidency and other chief executive offices, always declined the honor. relations, as well as various other subjects. OHIO During his distinguished career, March 9th brings James Brough There was a seminar on January 19th Mr. Liemer held positions as master ton to the sunny south presenting a bench in Springfield, Ohio. A WI President watchmaker with Marcus & Co., Black, course for the repair of ESA 9362 and Les Smith was the instructor on the Starr, Prost and Gorham, and earlier ET A 940111 quartz analog watches. Digital Quartz Alarm Chronograph. was associated with H. Breivogel, one Jerry Jaeger will be in Florida That Saturday evening, the Hospitality of the finest watchmakers in this country. in April with the Meter course. Classes Room was open to all watchmakers in He later was head watchmaker at the are scheduled for Tampa and Daytona L. Aisenstein Co., heading and managing the area. a repair shop of over a hundred watch Beach. The OWA Credit Union finished makers, many of whom today are heads Mrs. Walter Renzetti was hostess 1979 with a report to the membership of watchmaking departments in the at a memorial dinner for Walter Renzetti, that a 6% dividend will be paid on 1979 leading importers of this city. who passed asay in April. Walter was the savings. This is an increase of 'h% over Funeral services were held on instructor of watchmaking at Lindsey 197 8. All in all it was a very successful December 27th at the Westminster Hopkins in Miami. Many of his students year. New members are always welcome. Chapels in Brooklyn, NY. liCIJ3 and friends attended. It is still the best place to save and bor- 58 Horological Times/March 1980 THE ROCK QUARRY Continued from page 11 PROFESSIONALISM: Although you may think that sound product knowledge will suffice to make you a successful salesperson, it is not nearly enough. When was the last time you attended a seminar or convention? Have you ever taken "Did you want it to run too? any courses to learn more about your profession? Do you regularly read trade magazines? Do you belong to your local, The repair ticket said you state, or national organizations? So many changes have taken place in our industry in the last few years that it is hard to just wanted it serviced!" keep abreast of all the developments. Digitals, quartz analogs, cubic zirconia and other new synthetics-how do you keep up with all these innovations? If you want to be a pro, act like a pro. The public expects it. Today's consumer is more educated than ever before and demands that you be also. Show your credentials, never fails to bring a smile and puts the customer at ease. plaques, and awards. They prove that you have taken time But beware. Don't be frivolous with your customers. and trouble to be a little better than the next fellow. Be careful what you say and to whom you say it. As a rule, customers appreciate a touch of humor, but when it's time HUMOR: Last but by no means least, humor is a tool for to be serious-be serious. Don't try to be a comedian on stage successful selling. But what kind of humor? I am not talking all the time, for you may turn around and find your audience about the ho-ho or the off-color type of humor; I mean the has gone home-or you may end up getting a rap in the mouth! type of humor that will help break the tension and let the So, you see, all you need is enthusiasm, product customer relax. For example, if I notice someone looking into knowledge, confidence, sincerity, honesty, integrity, pro a showcase, I walk up and say, "Everything in there is for fessionalism, and a little bit of humor. Put all these ingredients sale. We're not holding anything back today!" Or, if a cus together and you won't have to worry about things going tomer brings back a watch that has stopped running, I some your way. times say, "Did you want it to run too? The repair ticket Next month we will talk about how these "ingre- said you just wanted it serviced!" A little quip such as this dients" can help you-the watchmaker. UCIB ~w[;J~~ It's about ti10e ... ~~~~(!)~~GJ The Digital ~ · from - CAS-KER Electronic THE MOST Watch Tum M. Hyltin CONVINCING Fom1edy of Texas Instruments DIAMOND SUBSTITUTE YET CREATED! 224 pp, illus, bx 9, Sl9 9S It's about time someone wrote a complete, non Cubic technical guide to help you keep up with the digital Zirconia Diamond Hardness 8 .5 10 watch revolution. Here, in. this one book, you'll find all Refractive index 2 .2 2 .41 7 vou need to know about how they work, how they're Dispersion 0 .o 6 0 0 .044 designed, and how to repair them. You really can't afford Specific gravity 5 .4 3 .5 2 Chemistry Zr02 Y2 03 c to be without this handbook, written by one of the original developers of electronic watches. King of Horological Time~ Zirconia P.O . Box ll011, Cincinnati. Ohio 452ll Yes, please rush me ''The Digital Electronic Walch." lam enclosing CAS-KER CO. $ 2 I .4 o (cost $19 .9 5 plus $ 1 .5 O for postage) U.S. funds only. Please aflow approximately 4 weeks for delivery. Price subject to change. Name ------Drawer A Cincinnati Phone Address ___ ZIP ____ P.O. Box 2347 Ohio 45201 [513] 241-7074 City------Stale D<·pt. BK-1 March 1980/Horological Times 59 New Products "Japan Style" in London: CITIZEN QUARTZ EXHIBITED IN LONDON MUSEUM The Citizen Quartz Digi-Ana watch-which features both dig ital and analog time displays on the same face-has been se lected by London's Royal Victoria and Albert Museum for display in its special "Japan Style" Exhibition this spring. Sponsored by the Mu seum and Japan's International Exchange Foundation, this ex hibition is scheduled to run which operates with two stan for ease in reading at any hour from March 10 to July 20, dard size "C" batteries, is available of the day or night. 1980. Its purpose is to provide for $145.00 and comes complete The Braun Travel Quartz a comprehensive introduction to with instructions and trouble Clock requires a battery change contemporary Japanese design, shooting tips for quartz watches. about once a year, and is de ranging from traditional folk For further information signed in a black casing which crafts to representative modern including our FR EE Digital Watch is virtually unbreakable. products. Parts and Equipment Catalogue Braun has the time-for contact: Media Digital Corpora travel or for the home or office. According to museum company, which will celebrate its officials, the Digi-Ana, manu tion, 1 State Road, Media, PA Shipment of the Braun Travel 50th anniversary in 1980, is 19063; phone 215-565-7610. Exact Quartz Clock coincided factured by Citizen Watch Com expected to manufacture 22 mil pany, was selected as one of with the January Housewares lion watches this year. Citizen's Show. 25 products which embody the U.S. headquarters are based in essence of Japan's most advanced Lyndhurst, New Jersey. industrial design trends. This BRAUN INTRODUCES AN watch combines digital accuracy INNOVATIVE PRODUCT NEW, INSTANT with a traditional analog face FOR THE TRAVELER CROSS-REFERENCE AID FROM VARTA and is powered by a single bat NEW FEATURES Braun Appliances U.S.A. has tery that lasts up to two years. ADDED TO MDC 1201 announced the introduction of Now anyone can be an expert The digital readout displays the TESTER the new Braun Travel Exact in the watch battery business, hour, minute, and second in Media Digital Corporation has Quartz Clock (Model AB-20T). at least when it comes to cross 24-hour military style. Other announced two new features now This innovative battery-powered referencing watch battery types. features include a calendar func available as options with the alarm clock is ideal for anyone Varta has eliminated the tion with day, date, and month, 1201 module tester pictured who travels, but is also welcome error-prone chore of finding the in addition to a chronograph above. The first is a quartz crys at home or in the office. The correct watch replacement bat readout accurate to one-hundredth tal substitute probe which will quartz alarm clock features a tery. Simply turn the dial of of a second. provide a 32,768 Hz signal to removable cover to protect both Varta's Compu-a-Type to instantly "We're honored to be a a module to determine if the the face plate and alarm switch. cross reference the correct Var tachron battery number. part of the 'Japan Style' Exhibi quartz crystal is defective with The inside of the cover displays tion," commented the president out having to remove it from the a world time chart designed for It's a durable, conven ient hand-held calculator-type dial of Citizen Watch Company of module. The second feature is a the international traveler and for America, Mr. Setsuo Kasahara. quartz analog current measure the person who telephones over "To us, " he continued, "com ment capability. This option will seas. bining function and aesthetics allow the user to measure the Important features include in our watches is a primary battery drain on stepping motor a stop/start button which allows goal; and, it's always rewarding type quartz watches in addition for accurate time setting and a when others recognize this." to the LED and LCD drain mea recessed time setting button to Citizen Watch Co ., Ltd., surement already available on the avoid accidental time changes. headquartered in Tokyo, is the basic unit. The low noise quartz move world's second largest manufac The options are priced ll)ent assures precision and the turer of quality watches. The at $20.00 each. The basic unit, flourescent hands and dial make 60 Horological Times/March 1980 setup that eliminates hunting SEIKO TO INTRODUCE through awkward, hard-to-read, NEW LC DIGITAL QUARTZ cross-reference tables. CALCULATOR ALARM To get your easy to use, WATCH easy to read Compu-a-Type, con Seiko's technological achieve tact your watch materials and ments in quartz timekeeping were jewelry distributor. further underscored by its intro duction of a new LC Digital Quartz Calculator Alarm watch available in both stainless steel and yellow top/stainless steel FABULUSTRE versions. Vibrograf Machine Division, 6 BUFFING COMPOUND In the time mode, the Ohio Drive, Lake Success, NY EXPANDS TO JEWELERS' watch displays a continuous read 11042. Telephone 516-437-8700. SUPPLIES FIELD out in hours, minutes, and seconds Jewelers' supply houses will be and day on a 12-h our basis. featuring a new product as Month, day, date and AM/PM Fabulustre buffing compound wi appear instantly at the push of SWEST OFFERS SOLUTION dens its distribution to include a button. the jewelers' supplies field. A "Solutions for your problems" The second-or calcu Both timepieces come complete long-established favorite in dental, lator mode-displays at the push with stylus for pushing the is what Swest Inc., wishes to optical, and industrial polishing of a button up to eight digits, calculator buttons, are water provide in a broadside brochure and buffing applications, Fabu· on its line of plating solutions, with a floating decimal point. resistant and have "Hardlex" mar lustre is formulated to produce fluxes, pickle compounds, cleaning This multi-function calculator per resist crystals. a high luster finish on all types forms addition, subtraction, mul solution, etc. The large brochure of precious and decorative metals. tiplication, and division, as well boasts a full line of solutions It can be described as an inter as calculation of percentages. used in the various jewelry mediate compound since it re An alarm display shows making processes along with prices NEW VIBROGRAF B200A moves light scratches and pro the time set to ring in hours and an order form . duces a fast, mirror-bright final and minutes. It can be pre-set TIMING INSTRUMENT For a free copy of the finish. to sound daily and/or to produce FROM PORTESCAP U.S. "Solutions" brochure, contact hourly time signals. During the past twelve years, Swest Inc., 10803 Composite A product of GFC, timing machines were sold world Drive, Dallas, Texas 75220; 431 Carlstadt, New Jersey, the com Other features of these new models are a special battery wide. This machine has proven Isom Road, San Antonio Texas pound is greaseless, dry but to be the most reliable and 78216; or 1725 Victory' Blvd.,' not dusty, leaves little or no life indicator which causes the digits to flash when battery re trouble-free instrument of its kind. Glendale, CA 91201. residue, and does not discolor To improve on it was not an metals on which it is used. It is placement is needed, and a built-in illumination system. The easy task, but Portescap, using packaged in convenient, 1 lb. the latest electronic technology and 1/4 lb. tear-away containers. model GW005M, in stainless steel, with black dial frame and white has accomplished just that in SOLAR MUSIC BOX Along with expanded bracelet, will retail at a suggested its new 1980 model. A unique new music box which distribution, Fabulustre has been price of $225.00. Model GW006M, This new B200A features operates on solar energy com given a new package design for with yellow top/stainless steel three major improvements over bines classic music box charm a brighter appearance. The new back case, gilt dial frame and the earlier version: with the intrigue and excitement design features the dark blue yellow bracelet, will have a 1. The quartz crystal fre of solar power. over metallic silver colors long suggested list price of $275.00. quency standard is of a Called "Solar Sonata," associated with Fabulustre and new design and operates makes the package more effective at very high frequency. as a display item. In addition, 2. All new integrated printed a bright metal display rack for circuits which are even the 1/4 lb. size has been intro more reliable than con duced. It holds 24 tubes of the ventional transistor circuits. 3. New and improved printing buffing compound and is cur rently on the shelves of many mechanism. This new version of the jewelers' supply houses. Vibrograf B200A will give many For further information years of trouble-free service and about Fabu.lustre and other GFC Portescap gives a two-year guaran products for the jewelers' supplies tee. For information and a field, write to GFC, P.O. Box demonstration in your store, 243, Carlstadt, New Jersey 07072. please contact: Portescap U.S., March 1980/Horologica/ Times 61 NEW PRODUCTS (Continued) News 1n the Trade the unit has a special low-voltage ranging from ladies' dainty gold motor and high current silicon watches to classic pocket watches solar cell which permits oper with all-steel cases. Universal ation in less than direct sunlight, Geneve's designs reflect the latest Harold Perlman and even under a light bulb. in fashion trends: flawless geo A perfect conversation metric lines, milti-faceted cases, Named WMJDA 1980 piece, the "Solar Sonata" music and classic round shapes. Dials box plays a choice of "Edelweiss" are unadorned or else feature Man Of The Year or "Sunrise, Sunset," and sells simple hour markers or large for $29.95, from Parker Products, Roman numerals. Most cases Harold Perlman, president of the 10 Pierce Street, Reading, MA feature the new "Triple Seal" American Perfit Crystal Corp. of 01867. water-resistance system which-in New York City, has been selected the finest tradition of Universal "Man of the Year" by the Watch Geneve-provides both optimum Material and Jewelry Distributors protection and the elegance of Association. The honor is con ultra-slim profiles. ferred annually upon an indi Without abandoning the vidual who has contributed sig THE NEW traditional mechanical watches in nificantly to the welfare and UNIVERSAL GENEVE the least, Universal Geneve has advancement of the industry. QUARTZ COLLECTION now entered a new phase of American Perfit is a charter A little more than a month ago, development, with intensified pro member of the association and it was announced that Universal duction of quartz watches. Their Mr. Perlman is a perennial ad daughter, Gwen, of high school Geneve had developed a new models naturally embody the vocate of participation in its age. quartz movement, Caliber 43, exacting qualities of design and activities. Both watch companies Mr. Perlman will be remarkable both for its extreme finish of the Geneva-manufactured and material distributors regard honored at the "Man of the thinness (a mere 2.30 mm) and watch for which Universal Geneve him as being extremely cognizant Year" luncheon at The Breakers, compactness, its diameter being has always been reputed: extra of conditions in the watch in Palm Beach, Florida, on Friday, only 19.40 mm. sli m lines, first-class finish and, dustry. April 11 during the WMJDA A collection of men's of course, unsurpassed accuracy Mr. Perlman was born Annual Convention. and ladies' models fitted with and reliability. Their new col and raised in New Haven, CT, this new movement has now lection, some representative mod "Surrounded," as he puts it, "by reached the market. The collec els of which are presented here, three brothers." He graduated tion is comprised of 30 designs includes models in 18K from Yale College and Columbia available in a variety of styles gold, in steel, and in goldplate. Law School, and then practiced POWER ONE ENJOYS law in New Haven for a year RECORD SALES before joining the army of the It was thumbs up at Varta Bat United States. A four-year army teries corporate headquarters in career encompassed Intelligence Elmsford, NY on January 8. Language School (Japanese) and Arthur Muti (left), vice-president an extended tour in the Pacific and general manager of Varta Theatre of Operations during Batteries, U.S.A., along with World War II. Claus Braeuer (right), sales man Upon returning to the ager of Varta, Germany, joined U.S.A., he took over the American in heartiest congratulations to Perfit Crystal Corporation, a Thomas Broderick, President of family business engaged in manu Power One. facturing shaped glass watch crys The occasion marked tals and importing round "KK" Power One's best year ever, crystals from Japan. The firm's with a 45% increase in sales of imports are now the round un breakable crystals from Europe . American Perfit bought BB Crystal Co., which operates as a division. Domestic operations continue to focus on manufacturing glass watch crystals; the firm is pre eminent in this field . Mrs. Perlman, formerly Sue Levy of New York City, is an accomplished artist. She and Harold have a son, Peter, and 62 Horological Times/March 1980 the miniature hearing aid bat from 8,192 to 16,384 Hertz, There is no denying the teries made by Varta. then doubled again to 32,768 unprecedented boom presently "I'm very proud of the and even to 2,359,296 Hertz, enjoyed by jewelry. 0 ne reason new sales achievements accom the realm of truly high frequencies. is, of course, the attraction of plished by Power 0 ne during Battery life has multiplied many gold with which most quality 1979," Mr. Broderick said. "We times over from the original jewelry is made. attribute our success to a strong one-year models. These and ~ What's more, jewelry is dealer service program. In ad variety of other developments no longer exclusively feminine. dition, Power One has intro were all premiered in Basie More and more men are acquiring duced a complete new line of over the last decade. pieces for themselves from col for her volunteer preformances packaging." Watch design and styling lections designed exclusively for in many USO shows. Power One's new line have evolved in tandem with them. These are some of the of packaging features a distinctive Mr. Lazarus, Chairman the technology. Since the first of the USO Entertainment Di reasons why jewelry sales in silver and green color scheme, European Fair opened, fashion Europe have increased by a vision, heads the committee that allows for testing the batteries has come a full circle, moving phenomenal 350% over the last sends entertainment throughout while still inside the package, and from graceful rounded shapes seven years. boasts a rotating, one-at-a-time the world, yearly, to our many to sharper and bolder styles, The watch, clock, and dispenser. military installations, as well as and to geometric patterns. And jewelry industries' allied trades to all V.A. hospitals in the U.S. 1980? Logic would dictate a and services will be represented new shift to curves and rounds, by some 250 firms at the 1980 perhaps to ovals-but fashion is European Fair. They supply every a constant source of surprises. thing from spare parts, special REMINDER ON SOCIAL 1980: NEW DIRECTIONS Only one thing is sure at this SECURITY TAXES FOR THE WATCH, point: the 500 watch manufac tooling, window dressing and IN 1980 CLOCK, AND JEWELRY turers exhibiting at the coming decoration material, to after-sales In preparing budgets, remember INDUSTRIES European Fair are without a servicing and repair equipment that the wage base will jump Will the new developments ex doubt going to give the new decade in short, everything retailers might $3,000-up to $25,900. Rates will pected in Basie this year in a dazzling send-off. ever need including items you remain at 6.13% for employers fluence the entire decade-as was had long been looking for and and employees, 8.1% for those the case a decade ago in 1970? In recent years, jewelry articles you never knew existed. self-employed. Maximum tax of A crucial question with the has experienced stunningly vigor They're all there under one $1588, employees and employers answer scheduled for April 19-28, ous growth. From a "mere" roof at the Basie Fair. (up $184), $2098 for those 1980-the best time to see what 260 participants in 1973, manu Watchmaking, clock- self-employed (up $243). Re new directions Europe's time and facturing jewelers at the Fair making, jewelry, and their allied printed from the RJA Bulletin. jewelry industries will be taking. will have grown to nearly 700 trades-nearly 1,500 exhibitors 1980-the start of a by 1980-an increase of over in all, are waiting for you in new decade and perhaps of major 250% and the most significant Basie with trendsetting collections new departures in fashion and index both of this industry's for the '80's. You couldn't technology; surely an important vitality and of the growing make a better move than to come MEMBER OF JEWELRY year for the European Watch, importance of the European to Basie for the 1980 European INDUSTRY HEADS USO Clock and Jewelry Fair which Watch, Clock, and Jewelry Fair Watch, Clock, and Jewelry Fair. ENTERTAINMENT will be opening for the eighth to this industry's future. 'UDE PROGRAM year running in Basie (April James J. Lazarus, President of 19-28, 1980). In watchmaking the L&R Manufacturing Company and jewelry, the start of a decade of Kearny, New Jersey, manu has traditionally been marked facturers of ultrasonic cleaning by a powerful creative surge. systems and cleaning solutions Take 1970 for example: for the jewelry and watchmaking that year was the beginning of industries, also plays a consider the quartz electronic era-right able role in the entertainment in Basie, where the first wrist of U.S . servicemen and women. watch collections incorporating Recently, in his capacity this new technology were pre as International Vice-President sented. Every year since, im of the USO and Coordinator for provements and innovations by the Miss America Pageant, Mr. the score have made their mark Lazarus hosted a luncheon in on the industry: the solid-state Atlantic City during which time digital watch (1972); the double he presented various awards and display analogue/digital watch memorabilia to Miss Kylene Barker (1976); and many others. Quartz who was Miss America, 1979, frequency has jumped successively March 1980/Horolo[ THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER (Continued from page 39) 44 Fulton Street, New York, New York, in the early 1940's. M. Low was established in 1830 and is still in business, although they have moved to 110 Hudson Street in New York City. The company offers a complete line and repair facilities for nautical instruments. Since the Navy was experiencing a severe shortage of chronometers in the early l 940's. Mr . Low traveled the country, buying up chronometers for the Ob servatory. Since it was impractical to put this instrument aboard ship, it was decided to mount it on a brass stand and use it as an exhibit piece. Today, it remains in good running condition and is kept in the Time Service Division of the U.S. Naval Observatorls Simon Newcomb Laboratory. 'liCIB Figure 11. Side View of the No Number Cummins chronometer. (Courtesy of the U.S. Naval Observatory, Washington, D .C.) BENCH TIPS (Continued from page 23) small measuring spoons to cave-in their spring bars. The that screwed down on the die. He had a machinist cut a round J. Borel Group has the Borel-Tee Spring Bar Curving Gun. groove on the large end of the ring mandrel, half the depth of the standard diameter spring bar, and curved spring bars The only way any tube can be curved without deforming the between the concave die and round groove in the mandrel. diameter is with a tool that fits snuggly around the tube to be bent. You can buy such a tool to curve spring bars, but it is expensive. One tip did come close, but not many watch Wh en all is said and done, th e best method is simply to buy an makers have such a tool. This watchmaker had a ring stretcher assortment of curved spring bars. You never can tell when with concave dies to fit round ring shanks used with a mandrel y ou may need one. ucm If you have a bench tip you would like to share, send it to "Jingle Joe" Crooks, 265 N. Main St., Mooresville, NC 28115. 64 Horological Times/March 1980 THE PICKLE BARREL (Continued from page 16) Beading Tool. to make the new bead match the existing beads, giving the job Graver with a balanced look. With the beading tool, the bead can be pushed Handle / over the stone by placing the end over the bead and pushing toward the edge of the stone. Bring the handle up and over the stone, applying great pressure all the time. By repeating F this several times, a well-formed shiny bead can be burnished, 0 shaped, and located in its exact place. See Figure 3, View B, point a. Another way to replace a bead is to drill a hole in A B C stead of forming a depression, and push the end of a piece of gold wire into this hole. Flux and place a small piece of JOO E solder where it will touch both the wire and the setting where ...._ the wire goes into the drilled hole. See Figure 3 View B Beading Block Round point b. Apply heat until the solder is pulled around the wir~ Belly and down into the hole, creating a strong bond. When cutting Graver the wire off, leave enough to bend over the edge of the stone Figure 4 with a beading tool. Form or shape the bead at the same time. Excess solder can be trimmed and the polishing done with a flat belly graver. Be sure the setting around the bead matches polished on the 4/0 buff paper, only the belly needs polishing. the rest of the setting. Figure 4 shows (A) side view of graver with handle, (B) flat Tipping beads is done in a manner similar to tipping belly graver, (C) round belly graver, (D) beading tool with prongs; the same preparation is needed and the same rules apply to tipping and replacing. If enough metal is present handle, (E) beading block, (F) beading tool in place in beading in the bead so that just the surface of the bead can be fluxed block to reburnish and shape the bead-forming end. When the solder can be controlled so as not to flow away from th~ sharpening gravers, an angle of about 30° should be maintained bead. The small piece of solder is fluxed, placed on the asbestos for cutting medium-hard metals such as gold, brass, or nickle pad, and heated until it forms a sphere. As heat is applied to silver. The angle can be lessened for soft metals such as silver the setting, transfer the solder with a pick to the prefluxed or increased (made more blunt) for harder metals such as spot on the setting. Enough heat should be applied to make steel. Gravers used around stones have to be sharpened often, it adhere to the worn bead, but not enough to let it flow for the edge will chip when it comes in contact with the stone. away from it. Trimming and finishing are done in exactly the The same applies to the beading tool when forming beads. same manner as when replacing a bead. It has to be reshaped by choosing the correct size bead in the The skill required for repairing beads is probably block, placing the end of the tool over this and with much greater than that required for repairing prongs, primarily pressure and a twisting motion, burnishing the end of the tool because bead repairs require the use of beading tools and back to the shape it should be, i.e., concave with a sharp edge around the rim. See Figure 4, Views D, E, and F. engravers' gravers. See Figure 1, Views I, J, K, and L. For work on any flat or plate settings, it would be helpful to As these repairs require a steady hand for holding wire in place while the solder flows, a tool has been devised have had training and experience in hand engraving as then one called the third hand. See Figure 1, View H. Figure 5 shows would have the feel of the gravers, the know-how to make cuts how this tool can be used to set up a bead replacement. Here with them, and the ability to sharpen them. Gravers must be it holds the wire in place while the solder application is made. kept sharp. They are sharpened by rubbing them over an India There is one point to be made about the use of this tool. oil stone, and then jabbing them into a piece of hardwood to For solder to flow on both the wire and the setting, the break off the burr that forms on the edge. The belly is then wire must be making contact with the setting· otherwise polished on a piece of 4/0 buff paper mounted on a glass plate. solder may flow on one and away from the other. It ma; Unlike watchmakers' gravers where three surfaces must be be necessary to use your hand that was freed by this tool to app!~ a little downward pressure so the wire will be making positive contact with the setting. With enough practice and Figure 6 . Replacing a Prong with experience you will find that it is much better and faster to Figure 5 Gold Wire hold the wire in your hand. Steadiness will come as you be come more comfortable doing these jobs. See Figure 6. In using beading tools and gravers, I will emphasize that keeping these tools sharp is not just important but vital. A sharp, well-polished graver is capable of making mirror fine cuts in metal and is less apt to slip, leaving marks that are hard to remove. I have found a way to cut the time involved in sharpening gravers. Having a wet wheel crystal grinder, I sharpen my gravers on this. By running wet, the graver does not get hot and the wheel, being a fine cutting wheel, does an excellent job of sharpening. . Cup burs are available for finishing beads and prong tips and are available in a range of sizes. These can finish beads or prongs from the smallest melee to the ones on large stones. They can be obtained from your material distributor. Although general tool catalogs do not all list them the dis- tributor should be able to supply them. ' In the next article, we will continue our discussion on ring repairs, concentrating on bezel, head, and shank replacements around stone settings. UCIB March 1980/Horological Times 65 Classified Ads Regulations and Rates Ads are payable in advance $.35 per word, $.45 per word in bold type. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher_ reserves the right to edit all copy. Price Iists of services will not b~ accepted._ Confiden tial ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance. Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211, (513) 661-3838 CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING, STERLING FLATWARE STOCKS-new or Tradesman repivoting, retoothing, escapement work. J. C. used needed. Call us before you sell for scrap. Van Dyke, CMW, CMC, CMBHI, 1039 Rt. Also wanted: silver, diamonds, gold scrap, 163, Oakdale, CT 06370. coins and coin collections. Call or write: Mr. Neff, HT, WFN Enterprises, 2260 North ELECTRONIC WATCH REPAIR SPECIAL lake Parkway, Suite 307, Tucker, GA 30084, IST. Digital (LED & LCD) and Analog Tuxedo Quality watch repair for the trade. Fast ser Ph. 404-938-0744. Electric-Quartz Watch Repair Div. P. 0. Box vice, Ultrasonic cleaning, Electronic timing. 561, Tuxedo, NY 10987. (914) 351-2282. Competitive prices. C&B Watch repair. P.O. Box 136, Mason, Ohio 4S040. DON'T TURN-DOWN ANYMORE OF THOSE OCCASIONAL LED, LCD, OR STEP-MOTOR WATCH-REPAIR FOR THE TRADE: Help Wanted WATCH-REPAIRS. Even if you don't want QUARTZ, (LED, LCD, STEP MOTOR), AND to open another account, just send those MECHANICAL. Careful work & thorough repairs to us along with your MASTER CHARGE going repairs plus ultrasonic cleaning and or VISA number (plus expiration date) and electronic timing. The Watch-Repair Shop. we'll do the rest. THE WATCH-REPAIR WATCHMAKER WANTED: Growing Pacific C.K. Goshman. 1219 Mound St. Madison, Northwest Jewelry chain has opening for SHOP,C.K. Goshman, 1219 Mound-St.,Madison, WI S371S. l-608-255-3247. WI 5371S. 1-608-2SS-3247. experienced watchmaker. EXCELLENT BE NIFITS INCLUDING PROFIT SHARING. 40-hr. week, all tools and materials furnished. PULSAR WATCH REPAIRS. Complete repairs Salary negotiable. Great opportunity for Clock repair material and tools. Manufac right person. Write or call collect Fred Meyer ture of clock springs, dials, escape wheels, on all L.E.D. PULSARS except calculators. Prompt Service. Leo G. Kozlowski, SS E. Jewelers-3800 S.E. 22nd Ave., Portland, verge kits, weights, all types of brass and OR 97202. Phone No. 503-235-8844, ext. Washington Street, Chicago, IL 60602. 312- steel stock and custom made parts. Catalog 461. postpaid $2.00. Tani Engineering, Box 338, 236-8052. Atwater, OH 44201. Watchmaker wanted in established watch WHEELS, Pinions, Barrels or whatever, Wanted To Buy . repair shop. Craftsman in repairing antique repaired or made new. Repivot Arbors. and modern watches. Salary commensurate Parts made to order. Send sample for free with experience and ability. Established estimates. On all watch parts, inquire first. WANTED: ENGRAVING BLOCK. Excel 1902. Send resume: R. Bruce Carson, Jeweler, Ken Leeseberg, Ken-Way Inc. 311 Chestnut Alexander House, Hagerstown, MD 21740. St., Addison, IL 60101. lent condition. P.O. Box 376, Washington, MO 63090. Pearl and Bead Restringing. All types. Fast service. Jean A. Gruenig, P.O. Box 12007, WATCHMAKER: Time to RETIRE but IMMEDIATE CASH PAID for Gold, Silver, can't or won't? Busy shop-in-home, near Columbus, Ohio 43212. Platinum, any form! Jewelry scrap, filings, beaches, needs partner to alternate annually! gold filled, sterling! Immediate top dollar Prefer Europ. training, successful, easy to cash offer return mail! Satisfaction guaranteed. please, married. Learn clock mastery. Reply WATCH REPIVOTING, WHEEL and PINION Ship insured/registered mail to: American to: Swiss Clock House, Box 1283-EG, Mel CUTTING expertly done by EUROPEAN Metals Co., St. Andrews Branch, P.O. Box bourne, FL 32925. WATCHMAKER with diploma from 30009H, Charleston, SC 29407. GLASHUTTE $1S.00 and up. Specializing in REPEATERS, CHRONOMETERS, TUR BILLONS, KARRUSELS, watches with PERPETUAL CALENDAR, UNUSUAL ES TOP DOLLAR SPOT CASH PAID for HIGH WATCHMAKERS: We are looking for good CAPEMENTS, etc. I can make any part for any GRADE American and European pocket men to earn 20,000+ per year in our pro watch; it is just a matter of economics. Send watches. Single pieces or collections. Especial gressive trade shop. Benefits include life in SASE for FREE price list. FREE estimate ly need 23, 24 (or more) jewel RRs, repeaters, surance, paid vacations, and health and acci given on your watch. PHILIP PONIZ solid golds. Cases and dials wanted also. dent insurance. Call Mr. J. Pollak at 1-216- (NAWCC, AWi}, 82SC Sir Galahad Dr., Richard Vye (NAWCC). 2603 Centinela. 241-4413 or send resume to Pollak W.S., Inc., Lafayette, CO 80026; (303) 66S-4388. Santa Monica, CA 90405, (213) 450-4243. 2132 E. 9th St., Cleveland, OH 4411S. For Sale-In Southern California; Watch and FOR SALE--Portescap VCIO by Bulova, For Sale Jewelry Repair Business. Excellent for watch Automatic Watch Cleaning Machine-Used and clock repairman. Inventory reduced. under ten times. Perfect condition. Phone Asking $15,000. Write or call Ralph Wolfe, 308-995-4623. 9440 Magnolia, Riverside, CA 92503. (714) Clockmakers' Buying Guide. New, 80-page 785-5423. Second Edition lists over 1,000 spare parts and repair services available from over 400 'A' QUALITY SWISS SPRING BARS, WRITE suppliers. $5 postpaid. 30-day satisfaction FOR FREE SAMPLES, P.O. Box 774, GREEN or refund. Box 171·T, Bronxville, NY 10708. U. S. HEADQUARTERS FOR ALL SCHATZ VILLE, MS 38701. PARTS. PARTS FOR THE NEW 400 DAY ELECTRONICS. ALSO FOR KUNDO ELEC TRONIC. GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE, For Sale-Timing Machines, Watchmaster Tim· 7760 FAY AVENUE, LA JOLLA, CA 92037. Watchmaster G-57; excellent condition. com ers Vibrograf Timers. Factory rebuilt. All plete with manuals; asking $175 Prepaid; machines guaranteed. Terms available. Also R.H. NIEGEL, 21837 Woodbury, Cupertino, available Untrasonic Watch Cleaning Machines. CA 95014. (408) 253-4927. Write Vibrograf sales representative Robert Swensgard, 2630-A Jett Hill Road, New Rich EVEREADY WATCH BATTERIES. Lowest mond Ohio 45157. Or phone (513) 553-2113. prices guaranteed. No minimum order. No Territory: Southern Indiana, Kentucky, Michi freight charge. 2% cash discount. Write for gan, Ohio, Tennessee, and West Virginia. free price schedule and cross reference guide. N.B. Sales Co., 32250 Red Clover Road, Miscellaneous Farmington Hills, MI 48018 (313) 553-0947. Metal Cutting Lathes, Bench Mills, Drill presses, Unimats, Maximats, Catalog L, Digital Watch Service Training. Zantech, Inc. $1.00. Wood-turning Machinery, Lathes, ESEMBL-0-GRAF LIBRARY in 28 volumes, offers training and instruments for servicing all Planers, Bandsaws, Combination machines. Pittsburgh, 1955. Chronograph repairing is types of digital watches. Course includes diag Catalog W, $1.00. Precision Tools, Inch or made easy by Step-by-Step procedure. Each nosis of watch malfunctions and repair me Metric, Aluminum, .Brass Steel, all shapes. small step of removing and replacing each part thods, including techniques in wire bond Miniature Screws, Taps, Drills, Saws, Collets. and making adjustments is clearly illustrated. repairs using silver epoxy. Louis A. Zanoni, Catalog T, $1.00. Campbell Tools, 1424 No concentrated study is necessary. Write EOG, Zantech, Inc., 13 Greentree Rd., Trenton, B_arclay, Springfield, OH 45505. P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. NJ 08619 (609) 586-5088. ~ ------' Someone You Know The Book You've Been Waiting For, l Is Missing Out THE BEST OF I L NEW MEMBER: J.E. COLEMAN: Street ______CLOCKMAKER City/State.______More than twenty-eight years of writing have been skillfully compiled into this first-ever book published of] ess Coleman's Zip ______original work. This book is designed to aid :those who are interested in solving the everyday problems confronted in School (if Student) ______practical clock repairing. This attractive hardbound, 544 page encyclopedia of horological information SUBMITTED BY: is published by the American Watchmakers Institute Press. The price is $30.00 postpaid. /~ Name ______Since the passing of] ess Coleman, / many have felt the void created g;.~// AWINO------~ by not being able to write or call «O// Coleman for help. The unique 9 / Payment enclosed for: 1 yr. regular membership $30.00 page index and cross reference ~q;../ 1 yr. student membership $10.00 prepared by Orville R. Hagans, 0~/9// once again makes it possible to consult with Coleman ~4,// Horological Times included in membership on almost any question ~ / Mail to: American Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Ave., relating to horology. X-:// Cincinnati, OH 45211 ~/ Send $30.00 payable to ~ / AWi Press, addressed ~/ to The Best Of .;J~«.,,/ Coleman, 3700 // Harrison Ave., / Cincinnati, / Ohio // ~'lJ .,:,,..7i 45211 // "- / / Dates to Remember Advertisers' Index AWi...... • . .. 52, 59 AMERICAN PERFIT CORP . . . . •• .. 38 MARCH B.B. CRYSTAL CO...... 38 1-2-Mid-America Jewelry Trade Show; Site 9-13-Watch Materials & Jewelry Distributors M. BERESH INC .. . ••• 24 undetermined Association Convention; Breakers Hotel; BESTFIT/JADOW . .. 18, 19 Palm Beach, FL J. BOREL GROUP . .• 43 BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL .• .• 50 1-2-Wisconsin Jewelers Association ; Annual BULOVA ...... 31 Trade Show; Olympia Resort; Oconomo 12-15-Southeastern Variety Merchandise Show, JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL woc, WI Georgia World Congress Center, Atlanta, OF WATCHMAKING ...... 50 GA 2-4-Manufacturing Jewelers and Silversmiths of America; Expo/ East; She raton Centre; 13-lowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Associa CAS-KER CO ...... Inside Front Cover, 59 New York, NY tion; Spring Technical Seminar; Airport CITIZEN WATCH CO . • . . . 9 Inn; Des Moines, IA COSMO ...... ••.•..... 53 9-11-Tampa Gift, Jewelry & Variety Merchan 13-17-lsrael Jewelry Fair; Tel Aviv Hilton; dise Show; Expo Hall; Tampa, FL Tel Aviv, Israel C. DVORKIN AND CO ...... 4 9-12- Philadelphia Gift & Jewelry Show; 18-20-Wisconsin Licensed Watchmakers As EBAUCHES, S.A . . .. 12, 13 Holiday Inn City Line; Philadelphia, sociation; Annual Convention; Fox Hills ESSLINGER & CO . .. .3, 58 PA Resort; Mishicot, WI 15-17-Georgia Retail Jewelers Association 18-22-American Gem Society; Annual Con GEM CITY COLLEGE ...... 39 Convention; Century Center Motor Hotel; clave; Fairmont Hotel; Dallas, TX GLASFLEX ...... 50 Atlanta, GA THE GOULD CO ...... •. 23 GREAT AMERICAN TIME CO. INC. . .. . 51 19-28-European Watch, Clock & Jewelry 16-18- Manufacturing Jewelers and Silversmiths Fair; Basel, Switzerland of America; Expo/West; Bonaventura Hotel; Los Angeles, CA B. JADOW & SONS INC .• ...... 18, 19, 33 22-24- Writing Instrument Manufacturers As JEWELMONT CORP ... . Outside Back Cover sociation Write Show; New York Statler 21-23-Fourth D.C. Antiques Fair; Armory; Hotel; New York, NY Washington, D.C. KANSAS CITY SCHOOL 21-23-TJA/TWA Annual Convention, The 25-28-South Carolina Retail Jewelers Asso OF WATCHMAKING ...... 39 Inn of the Hills, Kerrville, TX ciation Annual Convention, St. John's KIENZLE ...... •... 32 Inn, Myrtle Beach, SC KILB & CO ...... •...... 50 KILGORE COLLEGE . .. 50 ...... •... 46 21-25- California Jewelers Convention; Silver 26-28- Alabama Retail Jewelers Association KUONI TRAVEL. . .. ado Resort & Country Club; Napa, CA Annual Convention, Plaza Hotel, Bir mingham, AL S. LAROSE, INC ...... 22 22-23-West Virginia Retail Jewelers Associa MARSHALL-SWARTCHILD CO . . 34,35 tion Annual Convention, Charleston House MAXELL CORP. OF AMERICA . . .. 27 Holiday Inn, Charleston, WV MEDIA DIGITAL CORP ...... 7 29-30-Montana Northern Wyoming Retail NEST CO • . .•...... • . ••. 30 Jewelers Association ; Convention, Show, and Sem inar; Northern Hotel; Billings, PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE . . 32 MT PORTESCAP U.S . . , ...••. . .5 29-31-St. Louis Gift & Jewelry Show; St. SEIKO TIME CORP .. .. . Inside Back Cover Louis Cervantes Convention Center; St. STANDARD UNBREAKABLE Louis, MO WATCH CRYSTAL CO. INC . 51 STANLEY DONAHUE CO. MAY OF HOUSTON, INC .. . 33 18-19- North Carolina/Virginia Retail Jewelers SWEST INC ...... 7 E. & J. SWIGART CO .. . Outside Back Cover Association Annual Convention, Grove Park Inn, Asheville, NC TENNESSEEJEWELERSSUPPLYINC . . . 52 TWIN CITY WATCH SUPPLY Co .. 32 UNION CARBIDE . . 17 APRIL JUNE I. WIDESS & SONS . . 39 8-15-United Jewelry Show; Biltmore Plaza 22-25-Gift, Jewelry, and Housewares Show, ZANTECHINC ...... 25 Hotel; Providence, RI Merchandise Mart, Charlotte, NC ZENITH ...... 47 68 Horological Times/March 1980 The New Seiko Bracelet Replacement Screw Assortment Kit-STC-144: An efficient and dependable way to save time and money while you perform simple bracelet repairs right on your own premises. It's everything you need in one • An illustrated Case umbering compact attractive case. Best of all, Chart: To make selecting the appro they're genuine Seiko parts: priate part easy and convenient. • 48 Numbers: A special assortment • A sturdy, leatherette com12act case of 48 of the most popular screws, with 52 unbreakable clear bottles: three of each kind, for most brace In a professionally designed and lets, clasps, and safety chains in the attractively styled flat case that Seiko line. measures 6Y2" x 7~:' Order the New Seiko Bracelet Replacement Screw Assortment Kit STC-144 today, from your authorized Seiko Material Distributor. Price: $22.50. SEIKO Seiko Time Corporation, 555 West 57th St., New York, N.Y. 10019. DID YOU 0 KNOW?. .. JEWELMONT®~. CORPORATION "J is the Nation's Largest Material Distributor Specializing in UJ I Service-Accuracy- Integrity. ~ I ;:: U) IT MAKES GOOD SENSE TO GO WITH THE BEST! z CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-328-0614 MINN. ON LY 1-800-742-0508 OR WRITE JEWELMONT®~ ~ CORPORATION • _, P.O. Box 1404 Mpls., Minn. 55440 ••• the E. & J. Swigart Company has, since its founding in 1879, been one of the largest-of pure material houses in the continental United States, offering full lines of Swiss and American watch materials and batteries, including genuine materials from such factories as Seiko, Citizens, Bulova, Girard Perregaux, Omega, Longines, Wyler, Zodiac, Rolex, Hamilton, Elgin and other popular brands. We also carry full lines of tools and supplies for the jeweler and watchmaker, as well as regular and jewelry findings, clock materials, watch glass, bands and straps, optical goods, packaging supplies, tags, job envelopes, and bags, imprinted on our own presses. The majority of our sixty-six employees have been with us for periods of twenty years or more, giving us an expertise which is unique in a complex and highly technical business. We invite you to try our stocks and service. Catalogue Available on Request THEE. & J. SWIGART COMPANY 34 West 6th Street Cincinnati, Ohio 45202 (513) 721-1427